JANUARY 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 1
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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW Date:
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Time:
08h30 to 16h00
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• Book your seats today for R1 495 per person including VAT • You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers. • To register, send an e-mail to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za with the names and surnames of your conference delegates.
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
January 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 1
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
28
6 NEWS
SIN List to set a new standard for sustainable chemicals
New app to identify glass bottle non-compliance
Advancements in micro protection from Symrise
A modern take on historical biological resources
10 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s New in South Africa
11 INDUSTRY TALK
A route to uniting researchers and holders of traditional knowledge
12 EVENTS
Book your seat for the P&C Review 2020 conference
Interpack announces new digital show tools
Highlights from the 2019 Goldpack Awards
18 PACKAGING PROFILES
Designa introduces new plastic squeeze tubes
Rotolabel pushes boundaries in sustainability
32 PHARMA FOCUS: LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES
Scientific instruments from Labotec
Analyse, identify and verify in a flash
Aspen turns to Veolia for new water purification technology
40 CLEANROOM TECHNOLOGY & CONTROL
Sterilisation solutions from Telstar
Harmonisation in disinfectant efficacy testing
A guide to validating high purity water systems
46
22 SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Chemyunion introduces Agen for healthier skin
Kolabtree reveals trends in sustainable cosmetics
Danlink Ingredients diversifies into personal care
Rainbow algae extract promotes luminous skin
Botanica’s modern approach to historical biological resources
Responsible products become a key focus for BASF
Pure solutions for natural beauty products 44 COLOUR COSMETICS
36
An evolution in modular water treatment
Create the perfect look with Merck
Pure solutions for natural beauty products
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS
The latest developments from Coschem and SAAFFI
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Dr Chamunorwa Togo, Karen Maier, Kenneth Amaral, Ramya Sriram ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za
Passionate about plant-based
I
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES
’m so excited about the new year and our
help research and development teams
January edition of P C Review. We have a
realise their vision, while the cleanroom
bumper feature on speciality ingredients
technology and control feature on page
on page 22 with the majority of articles
40 takes a look at sterilisation solutions,
highly focused on natural, sustainable and
disinfectant efficacy testing and validation
plant-based ingredients. It’s interesting
methods for high purity water systems.
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
very much in line with Veganuary, which
makeup, don’t miss out on our exciting
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
started in the UK and has also taken off in
feature on colour cosmetics, on page
CIRCULATION
South Africa. Every January, people all over
44. Inspirational trends from Merck and
the world start the new year with a plant-
Sensient’s pure solutions for natural beauty
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
based diet for a month or more – hence the
products are highlighted this month.
to note how the growth of this feature is
campaign name. A report revealed that in 2019, South
If you’re into the business of beauty and
Remember to book your seat for our conference on 20 February. The P C
PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman
Africa was among the top six countries most
Review Beauty Benchmarks & Innovation
Art Director: David Kyslinger
enthusiastic about Veganuary, which I’m
Think Tank takes place at Media Park in
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
sure will have a trickle-down effect on the
Johannesburg. Please send me an email for
beauty industry. I’m even giving Veganuary
more information on the programme or to
a go with both my husband and I having
book seats.
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
switched to a plant-based diet. What else can you look forward to this month? We’ve launched a new feature –
The P C Review team and I wish all our readers and advertisers everything of the best for 2020.
MANAGEMENT TEAM
packaging profiles – and have two leading suppliers included in this edition. Both
Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd
MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
Enjoy the read.
Designa and Rotolabel share their latest
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
developments and new products on pages
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
18 and 20 respectively.
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone
We have two interesting sections
HEAD OF HR: Camillah West
dedicated to the needs of our readers from
CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson
the pharmaceutical industry. Our pharma focus on page 32 showcases scientific
HEAD OFFICE
instruments and laboratory equipment to
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4 | JANUARY
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
2020 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Launched a new product in 2019/20
Make a
Statement about it 2020
New Product Competition
ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y .V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 0 3 8
NEWS
Eco-friendly solutions for the personal care market CONSUMERS ARE LOOKING for personal care ingredients that are ecologically sourced, conserve resources or help to avoid negative environmental or social impact. At SCS Formulate on 12 and 13 November, BASF presented its latest solutions with a focus on natural actives. The chaga mushroom is a superfood renowned for various health benefits and has both traditional and modern uses. Inolixir is a hyper-concentrated bioactive ingredient, benefitting from all the nutrients and properties of the chaga mushroom thanks to an innovative and eco-friendly subcritical water extraction (SWE) technology. Instead of organic solvents, this method uses pressurised water heated to between 100°C and 374°C for extraction. Inolixir produces quick and long-lasting results for tired and sensitive skin.
‘With our new bioactive ingredients and biodegradable solutions, we support our customers in developing innovative products that meet the needs and expectations of today’s environmentally conscious consumers – as the demand for sustainably sourced products helping to protect and beautify skin and hair increases steadily,’ said Dirk Mampe, vice president, business management, BASF Personal Care Solutions Europe. Consumers are progressively concerned about the potential impact sunscreens may have on the environment and eco-friendly sunscreens are in high demand. BASF’s EcoSun Pass is a methodology that enables the environmental impact evaluation of UV filter systems. The environmental impact assessment system developed by BASF is clear, transparent and comprehensive.
Local health initiative granted USAID funding for expansion A NATIONAL DEPARTMENT of Health initiative is providing access to chronic medications for South Africans who are dependent on the public sector. Cipla Foundation will help to expand the Central Chronic Medicines Dispensing and Distribution (CCMDD) programme through funding from the United States Agency for International Development (USAID). While the programme is already well established in South Africa, with about 1.9 million patients enrolled, this partnership with USAID will grow the Cipla Foundation CCMDD network of five units to 50 over the next two years. This expansion is already underway with deployment of the first four units. Having
perfected the model over the past 12 months in KwaZulu-Natal, things are moving swiftly. With USAID’s support, the Cipla Foundation recently landed four units in Johannesburg, in the greater Tembisa area (Ivory Park and Rabie Ridge). Following the rollout of the first units in the City of Johannesburg, which became operational at the end of the year, the next units will be deployed in Soweto and Orange Farm. This means that more patients with chronic illnesses across the country will have easier access to life-saving medication. ‘This is in line with Cipla’s purpose of Caring for Life. Through our primary healthcare initiative, Sha’p Left, the CCMDD initiative came as a natural expansion in providing access not to the few, but to the many. By ensuring convenience and access for patients, these facilities can improve patient adherence to chronic medication, while simultaneously reducing patient load and congestion at national health facilities,’ says Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla South Africa, a parent body of the Cipla Foundation. The Cipla Foundation Project will work closely with the Department of Health and other stakeholders to optimise enrolment into the CCMDD programme and maximise patient retention in the programme.
Paul Miller, Cipla South Africa CEO
6 | JANUARY
2020 | P C Review
Perfluorinated chemicals used in dental floss are among the chemicals pinpointed on ChemSec’s SIN List
SIN List aims to set a new standard for sustainable chemicals CHEMICAL SPECIALIST ORGANISATION, ChemSec reveals the latest additions of industrial chemicals on its so-called SIN List – a compilation of over 900 toxic chemicals that should be avoided in the global supply chain. Followed by many brands, chemical producers and manufacturers – as well as the Dow Jones Sustainability Index, UNEP and other influential bodies – the latest additions are expected to set a new standard for sustainable chemicals management. Perfluorinated chemicals, or PFAS, used in dental floss, cooking pans, food packaging and water-resistant clothes are among the chemicals pinpointed. Currently there are several thousand different PFAS in use worldwide. Many of them belong to a newly recognised category of chemicals identified as persistent, mobile and toxic chemicals (PMTs). Due to their specific properties and heavy industrial use, these substances are now widespread in global ground- and drinking water. ‘These chemicals have managed to escape regulation as they do not exactly match current legal criteria. The most well-known chemicals in this category are the fluorinated compounds, often called “forever chemicals” since they do not break down in nature. Even though the debate is ongoing on exactly how to regulate these substances, smart manufacturers should already begin to phase them out,’ says Dr Anna Lennquist, project manager for the SIN List at ChemSec. Nanomaterials have also made it onto the SINList. Engineered nanoforms are legally covered by REACH, but so far, the focus has been on establishing definitions for registration requirements. Meanwhile, brands and manufacturers have been uncertain on how to approach hazard management of nanomaterials. The SIN List now includes carbon nanotubes, one of the more well-studied nanomaterials. First engineered in the ’90s, they are used to make durable, lightweight materials, for electrical conductivity, as a super black pigment and for water purification. ‘Until now, the debate about the safety of nano has focused on the need for more research. However, this is a perfect example of where there is enough science to say that these materials should not be used,’ Dr Lennquist concludes.
NEWS
Evonik thrives despite ongoing global economic issues THE GLOBAL PRODUCER of ingredients is sticking to its full-year earnings outlook despite global economic challenges. Evonik expects adjusted EBITDA to remain at least stable compared to last year. Sales are now expected to be slightly lower than the previous year because of lower demand. But Evonik had expected sales to remain stable. Excluding the divested methacrylates business, in 2018 the company generated sales of €13.3 billion and adjusted EBITDA of €2.15 billion. ‘We prepared ourselves at an early stage with stricter cost discipline and additional contingency measures for a cooling global economy,’ says Christian Kullmann, chairman of Evonik’s executive board. ‘We are being very proactive to
ensure we meet our full-year outlook.’ The 2018 initiated efficiency program to reduce administrative and selling expenses by €200 million annually has been accelerated. By end of this year, Evonik will achieve saving of €120 million, €20 million more than originally planned. A further €20 million will be saved with additional contingency measures such as delaying new hires and more restrictive expenditure on external services. The global economic slowdown continued to impact Evonik’s performance in the third quarter. From July to September, sales fell three percent to €3.23 billion due to lower volumes and selling prices. Adjusted EBITDA fell six percent year on year to €543 million. In its Nutrition & Care segment sales
declined two percent to €1.14 billion in the third quarter and performance materials sales decreased 20 percent in the third quarter to €475 million, compared to the same quarter in the previous year.
App to identify glass bottle non-compliance A COLLABORATIVE PROJECT between SGD Pharma’s quality and marketing departments, the new SDG Pharma App makes it possible to identify non-compliances in moulded pharma glass bottles, which may be discovered by customers
during an incoming or online inspection. It also demonstrates the company’s transparency in working with customers towards a mutual objective of safeguarding patients. The SGD Pharma App aims to optimise and harmonise exchanges between quality controllers and technical staff. A screen shot of the new ‘This project was initiated SDG Pharma app listed on in response to customers’ the App Store increasing demand for glass non-conformities training. It is crucial for them to be able to identify and recognise non-conformities quickly in order to improve inspection processes and make the right decision,’ says Quentin Ritter, quality project manager at SGD Pharma. Available for free from the Apple and Google Play stores, it only takes a few clicks for users to
install the app, create an account and receive unlimited access to a 2D visual compilation of the most frequently encountered forms of non-compliance. Users can refine their searches by administration method (parenteral, oral or nasal), by location or non-compliance types corresponding to various effects on patients or on filling lines, such as critical, major or cosmetic. Once a non-compliance has been identified, the user then accesses a dedicated page with a visual example and a written definition of the type of non-compliance and its associated acceptable quality level (AQL) in conjunction with ISO 2859-1. ‘The mission of SGD Pharma is to improve safety for the end user. The SGD Pharma App meets hospital staff’s growing demand for zero tolerance, including cosmetic quality. With this app, open to all professionals in the industry and designed with customers in mind, the company aims to support the global pharma industry in protecting patient health,’ says Emmanuel Lepitre, head of development and quality at SDG Pharma.
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 | 7
NEWS
The access versus treatment improvement predicament of personalised medicines TARGETED THERAPIES LIKE personalised medicine use a proactive approach, increase patient stratification and targeting, and aim to improve outcomes for healthcare players, according to GlobalData, a leading data and analytics company. Its latest thematic report, The State of Personalised/Precision Medicine suggests the key benefit of personalised and precision medicines is improved selection of an optimal treatment path, benefitting both patients and payers, as potentially ineffective medicines will be less likely to see use in specific patient pools. Michael Breen, associate director at GlobalData, comments: ‘When a disease has different patient segments, it’s possible that not all will respond to a particular medicine the same way, if at all. By identifying patient subgroups through biomarker analysis, personalised medicine will help identify which groups may benefit from a given treatment. This helps the patient get the most appropriate treatment more quickly, saving money for the payer since they are less likely to reimburse ineffective therapeutics.’
8 | JANUARY
2020 | P C Review
The majority of attention for personalised medicine has been in oncology, but there is an unmet need for expansion to other indications. Fern Barkalow, senior director at GlobalData reports: ‘While oncology has led the way in terms of precision medicine development, these therapies are positioned to fulfil unmet needs in other therapeutic areas. Approximately 90 percent of the top-marketed precision medicine therapies in 2018 were approved for oncology indications, and these can serve as a roadmap for development of precision medicine drugs in other therapeutic areas. The report highlights a variety of case studies in oncology that should be useful to many stakeholders pursuing this approach.’ Development costs associated with personalised therapies are expected to be higher than average, partially due to the highly specific nature of these agents, coupled with the need for a companion diagnostic. Accordingly, experts report market access hurdles will be the greatest challenge in the development and launch of these therapies.
Advancements in modern micro protection with SymDeo B125 SYMRISE INTRODUCED SYMDEO B125 10 years ago as an effective and readily biodegradable deodorant active used to prevent body malodours. It’s typically used in underarm cosmetics and has been proven effective in foot care formulations. The company’s researchers have now been able to show this deodorant active is microbiome-friendly and does not disrupt the sensitive underarm biota. Symrise’s findings regarding the influence of deo actives on the human axillary microbiome are the first in the industry. This underlines its pioneering position in the field of modern micro protection. ‘Globally, we are observing a growing interest in exploring the impact of personal care products on healthy skin,’ says Dr Florian Genrich, senior global product manager: micro protection, Symrise cosmetic ingredients division. ‘Consequently, cosmetics manufacturers are facing continuously increasing expectations from the consumer side, which requires the industry to keep up with state of the art technologies. As a manufacturer of cosmetics ingredients, we continuously conduct intensive research on our ingredients and explore new methods, such as in the field of skin microbiome analysis. We are proud to deliver additional benefits to our customers within our existing and versatile product portfolio,’ Dr Genrich concludes.
2020
ood f
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P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
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STREET
1
1 Quality you can trust Proudly South African skin care and cosmetics brand, Bramley has re-launched with a new look, redesigned logo and new product developments. Clean, simple and elegant, the solid oval shape of the logo has been maintained to reflect stability and cohesiveness, while a new modern font has been used. The brand has also extended its product offering in the Lavender range and welcomed the limited-edition Be Happy and Be Real
4
Body Spritzers to its Be You range.
2 Put your feet first Matsimela’s new at-home foot care range is formulated with key ingredients to hydrate, exfoliate and protect the
2
skin from harmful environmental elements. It includes a foot mask spray, formulated with Glycolic Acid to aid intensive exfoliation of the heels and an intensely moisturising heel balm, which is formulated with Urea, Glycerin, Peppermint Essential Oil and Shea Butter.
3 Back to beat heartburn Gelusil Plus, an antacid indicated for the relief of heartburn during pregnancy, has been re-launched in South Africa. Nova Pharmaceuticals has added Gelusil Plus to its prenatal portfolio, which includes the number one prenatal supplement in the country, Pregomega Plus. Gelusil Plus is available in a 200mℓ suspension at leading pharmacies nationwide.
4 Superior CBD infusions Oil Science has launched a range of premium, 100 percent natural and vegan-friendly certified CBD oil products, formulated to improve physical and mental well-being. The range includes CBD oil drops and an anti-inflammatory serum, cream and gel – all infused with CBD. The products are packed in 30mℓ bottles with a medical dropper, giving
3
approximately 600 drops per bottle. Available in 300mg (low strength) in natural and cinnamon flavour, and 1 000mg (high strength) in natural flavour, the CBD oil products are completely THC-free with no psychoactive effects.
5 Vitamin D on the go NRF CalMag Fizzy with added vitamin D is a lime flavoured effervescent tablet that is easily absorbed by the body. One tablet daily, dissolved in a glass of water, allows for fast and gentle absorption and is suitable for the most sensitive digestive system. The product contains Vitamin D, which helps with the absorption of calcium, and Magnesium, to support the improvement of bone mass and assists in maintaining bone density.
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| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
5
INDUSTRY TALK
A route to uniting researchers and traditional knowledge holders There is a wealth of indigenous knowledge in Africa, which, coupled with best practices and products, can address various health challenges. Dr Chamunorwa Togo of the BioPark@Gauteng highlights standardisation as key to exploiting indigenous knowledge in the pharma and cosmetics industries.
W
hen one visits rural
dean at the Tshwane University of
world. It hopes to pinpoint more sources
communities and villages,
Technology’s Faculty of Science.
of indigenous knowledge and package
you’ll find practitioners with excellent solutions
By collaborating with traditional healers who use a plant derived remedy to assist
them for global consumption. It is currently providing entrepreneurial
for everyday ailments, yet we’ve not
individuals with bone and cartilage
support and interfacing with citizen
managed to commercialise and scale up
ailments, Prof Motaung has proven the
scientists, entrepreneurs and university
these solutions, to bring them to market.
traditional remedy holds bone cartilage
researchers to promote the exchange of
The BioPark@Gauteng, a business
regenerative properties. Not only has the
knowledge and wisdom. However, there is
incubator at The Innovation Hub, is
remedy offered an alternative treatment
a need to understand the complex system
working with traditional knowledge holders
solution to individuals lacking access to
of intellectual property and how to protect
and researchers to bring both parties
conventional medicine, it’s also inspired
it along with the business models of these
together. Its main aim is to harmonise and
Prof Motaung to launch a complementary
citizen scientists, to facilitate conversations
standardise the centuries old information
health product, La-Africa Soother.
and product standardisation.
to address safety issues and guarantee quality standards.
Knowledge brought to life Instead of subjugating and rejecting
The wealth of indigenous knowledge can
A humble approach focused on
also be seen in various cosmetics and beauty
recognising the efforts of traditional
products on the market, including Portia M
practitioners is paramount to address
Skin Solutions, Phepisa, Dermacell, K-squared.
some of challenges faced by humankind.
Nutraceutical brands harnessing the
This should be complemented by
indigenous knowledge as witchcraft, we
benefits of indigenous knowledge include
building confidence in the industry and
should embrace and harness its value.
Dikgabane consulting and Lefakong, while
not waiting for someone else to endorse
One valuable example is the work of
the beverage product, Royal Mabundu
our work. Opening up training systems
and condiments from Makhamisa Foods,
and allowing for the integration of
are also based on indigenous knowledge.
different ways of knowledge generation
DID YOU KNOW?
Professor Shirley Motaung, a biomedical
scientist The BioPark@Gauteng provides business development and the support to start-ups in the fields assistant of biopharmaceuticals, medical devices and diagnostics, indigenous knowledge-based nutraceuticals, cosmeceuticals and cosmetics. The support is provided in collaboration with Gauteng Department of Agriculture and Rural Development and eGoliBio Life Sciences Incubator.
can go a long way in harnessing
Moving in the right direction
traditional knowledge. Without taking
The BioPark@Gauteng is determined to
bold steps in the right direction, we may
take Africa’s indigenous knowledge to the
run the risk of remaining the proverbial hunter who kept looking for a kudu hidden in water while he was holding the horns and drinking from the same pond. •
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Dr Chamunorwa Togo is the general manager for bio economy at The Innovation Hub. He has extensive research experience and a strong background in biotechnology and general life sciences. Some of his areas of interest include bridging the gap between the laboratory and market, and the commercialisation of indigenous knowledge-based products.
The Innovation Hub – www.theinnovationhub.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 | 11
EVENTS
Book your seat at our beauty industry conference Following the highly successful P&C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference in 2019, our industry event will be back in 2020. Join us in Johannesburg on 20 February, where we’ll have exceptional, relevant thought leadership content on offer from seven leaders in their respective fields.
Joint managing director of Extrupet, Chandru Wadhwani
L
Rob Maclean of eCommerce Experts
Samantha Fletcher, partner and client service director at G&G Digital
L’Oréal South Africa’s scientific and regulatory affairs advisor, Percy Sibanda
Raymond Chimhandamba, founder and director of Handas Consulting
earn how to lead and succeed in
managing director of Extrupet, Chandru
presentation on distribution channels,
the competitive world of beauty
Wadhwani will discuss global trends and
mobile tech trends and how cosmetics
at the P&C Review 2020 Beauty
the sustainability measures that can be
and beauty brands can utilise these to
Benchmarks & Innovation Think
applied locally. He will also delve into how
capture new markets in Africa.
Tank. Our beauty industry event will
to develop and maintain a sustainable
feature an unmissable programme
brand and provide insight into the local
regulatory affairs advisor, Percy Sibanda
of innovators and industry experts to
resources available for implementing
is back on the speaker line up for the
educate and enlighten delegates on
recyclable packaging.
2020 conference. Percy will lead a much-
claims, social media and influencer
Rob Maclean of eCommerce Experts,
L’Oréal South Africa’s scientific and
needed discussion on how to keep
marketing. The programme will also focus
the official Shopify experts, will weigh up
your claims in check while leveraging
on INCI listing dos and don’ts, financial
the pros and cons of e-commerce and
your product’s formulation ingredients
wellness, bricks versus clicks and the
how to build and launch user-friendly,
for success. He will also help attendees
rise of e-commerce, sustainability, and
engaging and successful Shopify sites.
understand the intricacies associated
beauty and personal care market data
Maclean and his team have built over
with cruelty free and natural and organic
and category insights.
80 eCommerce websites for local and
claims and how to structure and declare
international customers, including many
ingredients correctly on an INCI list.
See how your brand stacks up against some of the most sustainable ones, meet
in the beauty and cosmetics industry.
beauty vloggers and bloggers and get
Digital marketing and consumer insights
content while you learn about how to
Exploring Africa and compliant claims
adapt to rapid changes in the market.
Sharing his vast experience in launching
Innovation Think Tank will also feature
The conference takes place at the
and developing FMCG brands in African
a focused slot on financial wellness for
Media Park Auditorium in Auckland Park,
markets, Raymond Chimhandamba,
entrepreneurs and small businesses
Johannesburg. To book your seat for R1
founder and director of Handas
and a presentation on market data and
495 per person including VAT, send an
Consulting, will share a high-level
consumer insights.
inspired to create great social media
email to abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za. The event will also include a select group of exhibitors, which will showcase their products and solutions for the beauty, hair care, cosmetics and personal care industry.
Sustainability and e-commerce To encourage sustainability in the South African beauty industry, joint
12 | JANUARY
2020 | P C Review
The event will also include a select group of exhibitors, which will showcase their products and solutions
The P&C Review Beauty Benchmarks &
Samantha Fletcher, partner and client service director at G&G Digital, will present an unmissable session on digital marketing. G&G Digital is an independent digital agency with a passion for quality, smart creative solutions and sound strategies founded on deep insights. Samantha will bring her strong influencer connections to the conference to enlighten delegates on digital marketing. •
EVENTS
New digital tools announced in preparation for interpack
interpack
PROCESSING & PACKAGING
E
2019-11-26 interpack 2020_Südafrika_Kosmetikindustrie_88_5 x 262 + 3mm _SA Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review_4c_8481
According to the organisers, the 2020 edition of the processing and packaging show, interpack, is fully booked. Around 3 000 exhibitors from approximately 60 countries will present their solutions during the show, taking place from 7 to 13 May. ffective immediately, interested parties can access the exhibitors and products section on the interpack website, www.interpack.com to obtain an overview of this unique offer and the participating companies.
The branch search section provides eight target group icons for fast access. Users can click on the icons for a list of exhibitors that have corresponding products in their portfolio for the respective branch. Using the MyOrganizer function, various selection options allow future visitors to further refine their results and save them in a personal account. Users can select individual exhibitors as favourites and add notes, as well as synchronise the list with the interpack app, which is available for iOS and Android devices. The function also offers a personalised version of the trade fair layout, making it much easier to find your way around the 18 trade fair halls.
Life without Packaging conference Sustainability has been shaping the packaging industry for years and recently became a hotly debated issue as a result of the discussion around plastic packaging in particular. The new Life without Packaging conference will highlight the areas of packaging, sustainability and the environment by presenting different perspectives. Critics and advocates will be given an opportunity to have their say, discussing the necessities and what to avoid. The conference, taking place on 12 May, will focus on sustainability and environmental impact, as well as hygiene and the reduction of food waste. Details on the speakers and the conference programme are available on the interpack website.
Matchmaking with AI Another highlight among the new, digital offering is the revised Matchmaking tool to efficiently plan visits to the trade fair. Launched in November, the tool enables users to set up meetings prior to the show. Over time, the system learns from its interactions with the user and suggests potential contacts. These contacts can then be assessed, either positively or negatively, by swiping left or right in the app. The user’s decisions continuously improve suggestions. • Visit www.interpack.com for more information and to start planning your visit to the expo.
Southern African-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry 47 Oxford Road _ Forest Town 2193 JOHANNESBURG P.O. Box 87078 _ Houghton 2041 Tel. +27 (0)11 486 2775 _ Fax +27 (0)86 685 3729 tradefairs@germanchamber.co.za _ www.germanchamber.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
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2019-11-26 interpack 2020_Südafrika_Kosmetikindustrie_88_5 x 262 + 3mm _SA Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review_4c_8481.indd 21.08.19 13:26
EVENTS
Awards promote packaging innovation & excellence
Since its inception in 1973, the Gold Pack Awards has grown in prestige. Today, it’s recognised as the South African showcase for the packaging industry. The gala dinner for the 2019 awards took place on 30 October at the Inanda Club in Sandton. P&C Review was there to celebrate with the winners.
A
lthough innovation is an
of creative design, marketing or
support has been received from Berry
appealing reason for
technology applied to packaging.
Astrapak, Polyoak and the Glass
awarding gold medals,
‘This may or may not include unique
Recycling Company.
it’s primarily excellence
or innovative ideas and technology,
in packaging execution that creates
but certainly results in entries that
medal winners. The various categories
demonstrate packaging
are divided into two broad groups.
excellence,’ he comments.
The first group relates to the product’s
The Gold Pack Awards
market type – from beverages and
event continues to
food to industrial, beauty, pharma and
be the highlight
household goods as well as packaging
of the packaging
components, processes and systems. The
industry’s calendar
second is defined by the materials used,
and receives
such as metals, glass, paper, rigid and
considerable
flexible plastics.
support, in the form
Criteria in the two groups are quite
of entries and financial
Home and personal care packaging awards
DID YOU KNOW? Up to 80 percent of the waste
In the category, Health, Beauty, Medical and Pharmaceutical
Packaging, Vaseline in Africa is recyclable and yet only four percent is recycled. Blue Seal Shrink Striving to achieve a wasteSleeve Range free world, Unilever is building partnerships to drive an inclusive 250mℓ won the circular economy by rethinking Gold medal. Entered every step of each product’s lifecycle, from packaging by Unilever, New design and manufacturing to Era Labels and Berry consumer use, collection and recycling. Astrapak, the range
different with the substrate categories
support from sponsors,
tending to be focused more on the
which demonstrate their
technical superiority of the packaging’s
commitment to the industry
manufacture and conversion. According
in a meaningful way. This year, the
campaign. This packaging celebrates
to Bill Marshall, national secretary of
flagship sponsors were Propak, Sappi
eight different countries and ethnic
the Institute of Packaging South Africa
and Nampak whose continued
groups. The sleeves are printed in-line
(IPSA) and Gold Pack judge himself, the
support has come to underpin the
using a specialised combination of
judges look for the excellent execution
awards programme. Additional
gravure and flexographic printing.
14
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
is produced as part of Unilever’s ‘Journey of the Jar’
EVENTS The Bronze medal was awarded to Teqal Creative Packaging and Canway Products for the Oh So Heavenly 50ml face cream jar. The clever use of a combination of polymers has maximised the visual impact of this pack, while reducing costs and retaining functionality. A clear outer lid, combined with a high-gloss silver foil band on the jar, add to the pack’s aesthetic appeal. According to Sean Kirkham, sales and marketing director of Teqal, it took a passionate and experienced team to put together this new jar for the Oh So Heavenly face cream. ‘During the early stages of product development, it was clear the Canway team had a well-defined understanding of its target
Bill Marshall pictured with representatives from Unilever, who accepted the award for the Judge’s Special Mention
market’s needs for premium quality and value.’ In the Household Products (including domestic goods and others) category, Unilever bagged another Gold medal
in 2010, it has three main goals, one of which is to halve the company’s environmental impact by 2020. The award for Judge’s Special Mention
for the Sunlight Dishwash 750 and 400mℓ
for Sustainability doesn’t form part of
products. Entered by Unilever, Serioplast
the category awards and is instead a
and Extrupet, the packaging incorporates
separate prize bestowed on companies
100 percent rPET, compared to the
at the discretion of the judges.
50 percent rPET used in the previous design. It also saves the use of some
Improving waste management
1 800t of virgin polymer. In harmony
By 2025, Unilever has confirmed it will
with Unilever’s Sustainable Living Plan,
halve its use of virgin plastic, by reducing
this iconic brand is leading the way in
its absolute use of plastic packaging by
educating South African consumers
more than 100 000t and accelerating
about the merits of recycling and
its use of recycled plastic. It will also
encouraging others to follow in
help collect and process more plastic
its footsteps.
packaging than it sells.
A leader in sustainability
continue to work towards its existing
Unilever also received the Judge’s
commitment, made in 2017, to ensure
Special Mention at the Gold Pack
all its plastic packaging is 100 percent
Awards 2019 for its Unilever Sustainable
reusable, recyclable or compostable
Living Plan.
and includes a minimum of 25 percent
Su zi Moore of Packag ing & Pri nt Media wi th Sean Kirkham of Teq al
The multinational brand owner will
‘We pride ourselves in developing an in-depth understanding of what
recycled plastic. The Sunlight Liquid, Dawn Body Lotion
consumers want and utilise our expertise
and Comfort Fabric Conditioner bottles
in science and technology to innovate
are fully recyclable, and examples of
boldly for people and the planet,’ says
packaging already made from 100
Jennifer Cromie, R&D director at Unilever.
percent recycled plastic. This makes
‘The awards, which we humbly accept,
Unilever the first major global consumer
are testament to the relentless efforts of
goods company to commit to an absolute
the R&D team and our commitment to
plastics reduction across its portfolio.
sustainable growth. For the judges to sit
Extrupet, one of the largest and
Anita Raath, New Media advertising sales executive with Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review
up and take notice of the impact of our
most advanced recyclers of rPET bottle
initiatives through Unilever’s Sustainable
materials on the African continent,
to improve legislation around waste
Unilever is also working with partners
Living Plan, must mean we are doing
commended Unilever on being a
management. One of the ways in
something right.’
frontrunner in the use of rPET in South
which this is being achieved is by
The Sustainable Living Plan sets out
Africa along with its commitment to
integrating reclaimers or ‘waste pickers’
to decouple Unilever’s growth from its
improving packaging sustainability
into the recycling economy and ensuring
environmental footprint, while increasing
and performance at the 2019 Gold
they are paid for the valuable service
its positive social impact. Launched
Pack Awards.
they provide. •
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
15
COMPANY FOCUS
IMCD takes its first steps to enable sustainability Every journey starts with the initial steps, as IMCD reveals in its first sustainability report released in 2019. This report lifts the veil on all non-financial data of the company, including its social, safety and environmental performances of 2018. It also highlights significant local initiatives, from efforts to optimise its supply chain to helping local communities.
W
hile compiling its first
Ultimately, it sounds as if shifting to
to find sustainable alternatives or more
sustainability report,
greener options is the way to go, so why
innovative solutions. Subsequent to
calculating greenhouse gas
doesn’t everyone follow this path? Truth
concrete analyses of data concerning
emissions and documenting
is, it’s not that easy for every market.
production and use phases, these raw
current achievements in terms of positive IMCD realised it has a bigger role to play
Progressive versus conventional
in sustainability. As a global leader in
Some industries, such
the sales, marketing and distribution of
as personal care, are
speciality chemicals and food ingredients,
ready to embrace
IMCD realises it can make a far bigger
sustainability as
impact by looking outside of its own
they are driven by
operations and shifting the product offering
consumers concerned
towards more sustainable raw materials.
about the environment.
environmental and social impacts,
Harnessing its deep knowledge of the
They’re also pushing big
DID YOU KNOW? IMCD believes
materials will be promoted as suitable alternatives that provide environmental, social and economic
sustainability goes beyond benefits throughout regulatory compliance their entire life cycle and current profitability and success. A sustainable global when compared to economy, according to the mainstream solutions company, should combine long-term profitability, currently on the market. social justice and The added value for environmental care – now and into its customers will not only the future.
markets in which it operates and the key
brands and multinationals
players, as well as through its technical,
to reach a higher level of
be in terms of their reduced
marketing and supply chain expertise,
naturality in their products by using
reputational and cost saving measures.
IMCD could be a one-stop source for
biodegradable ingredients and
For example, using recycled plastics
customers who need to lower their
more sustainable packaging options,
in new buildings is proven to be less
environmental footprint. The company is
which would lower their contribution
expensive than their virgin countertype
equipped to provide products either with
to plastic pollution. More and more
or adding a processing agent to a
a lower toxicity profile, reduced carbon
consumers choose their personal
reagent can shorten heating time and
footprint, or which require less energy or
care brands based on their social and
lower energy consumption.
water when using the finished product.
environmental impact. They have the
Looking at the reasoning behind the
environmental impact but also
power to shift sustainability trends by
New green portfolio
need for more sustainable products,
being vocal about environmental issues
The IMCD portfolio of sustainable
it’s clear IMCD could make a major
on social media.
products will be launched this year.
contribution to achieving climate change
Yet there are other more conventional
Every product within this portfolio will
targets. More sustainable products are
industries where the choice of raw
be backed by tools and data to assist
also proven to be a sound investment.
material is driven by price and traditional
its sales force in guiding customers
IMCD’s efforts to provide more efficient
habits. This is where IMCD has the ability
to select the right alternative to a
products can help its customers lower
to affect change despite the effort
product already in use. Using relevant
their costs and reach new consumers
required to do so. As a first step, the
methods of measuring and assessing
concerned about environmental issues.
company will work closely with suppliers
environmental impacts, IMCD forecasts
16
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
COMPANY FOCUS
IMCD forecasts the overall carbon footprint associated with its offering of sustainable products will decrease in the years to come chain to laboratory and sales functions. They are then guided on their subject choices and the admission requirements of their preferred tertiary institution of study, as well as equipped with soft skills such as time and stress management, presentation skills, interview techniques and how to create a professional CV and complete applications for university and financial aid, if necessary.
Making a difference For three decades, the Look Good Feel Better programme has been dedicated to helping people with cancer cope with the appearance side effects of their
the overall carbon footprint associated
communities in one of more than 200
treatment. Since 1989, the programme
companies over a three-year period.
has empowered two million people in
The TechnoGirl initiative is helping to close
27 countries around the world to reclaim
with its offering of sustainable products will
the gender gap by combining technical
a sense of control, confidence and self-
decrease in the years to come.
learning and mentorship with life skills
esteem, which are central to wellbeing.
Besides delivering safe and sustainable
education and empowering girls to make
In South Africa, the programme is made
products, IMCD is also actively involved
informed choices to prevent HIV, teenage
possible through the collaborative effort
in regional social responsibility
pregnancy and gender-based violence.
of Look Good Feel Better South Africa, the
initiatives to contribute to the welfare
Female learners ranging from grade 9
of local communities and improving
to 11, from economically disadvantaged
charitable arm of the cosmetics industry association – the Cosmetic, Toiletry &
their conditions.
backgrounds, are chosen and assigned
Fragrance Association (CTFA) – members
to participating companies, which they
of the CTFA and other generous sponsors.
Empowering young women
visit during school holidays. Although the
IMCD South Africa is a proud programme
purpose is primarily job shadowing, the
IMCD South Africa sponsors raw materials
partner with TechnoGirl, an initiative
mentoring programme is much broader.
to renowned personal care brands to
created by Unicef in partnership with the
During the three-year period these
Contributing to its ongoing success,
manufacture the cosmetics and skin
Uweso Trust and the National Department
learners spend time with the IMCD
and sun care products they donate to
of Basic Education. The programme
South Africa team, gaining exposure
Look Good Feel Better for the workshops
places academically gifted high school
to every single job function within the
hosted at hospitals and clinics around
girls from underprivileged rural and urban
company, from admin and supply
South Africa. The company also actively supports the foundation by participating in its annual golf days and providing sponsorships for these events. With local projects and other initiatives worldwide, IMCD is committed to the strong idea of a sustainable future. Through supply chain optimisation, cooperation with reliable partners and developmental projects to progress the social fabric, IMCD will achieve its
TechnoGirl in-programme learners, Kefilwe Moloi and Basetsana Mogagabe with IMCD South Africa’s customer solutions manager, Ana Da Costa, photographed in IMCD South Africa’s Ethnic Care centre of excellence
TechnoGirl in-programme learners Katlego Tsatsi and Promise Mamome with IMCD South Africa’s applications technologist, Gladys Syebele, photographed in IMCD South Africa’s food technology laboratory
ambitious sustainability targets. •
IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
17
PACKAGING PROFILES
– a specialist in plastic Contact details
process of plastic tubes for use in the
Tel: +27(0)81 468 9600
cosmetics industry. Its equipment is
Plastic squeeze tubes in development
Email: sales@designaplastics.co.za
geared towards continuous extrusion
• a range of 25 and 50mm diameter
Web: www.designaplastics.co.za
moulding, heading injection moulding,
squeeze tubes, set to be launched in the
Unit 5, Dura Industrial Park
capping and screen printing, to enable
second quarter of the year.
90 Escom Road, New Germany, KZN
quick turnaround times.
Find us here: https://goo.gl/maps/ nfLn3NC8Fj5YM9uX8
The premium two-layer tubes are manufactured from a polyethylene blend of materials. Designa understands that squeeze tubes are
Company description
specific to each individual customer’s
Designa is a one-stop shop for converting
needs, which is why customers can
concepts into complete finished products,
customise their tube and cap colours
from design and drawing to prototyping
as well as the screen printing on their
and manufacturing. For over two decades,
tubes, up to four colours and with
Designa has been at the forefront of
a varnish application. While tube
product design and manufacturing
diameters are set, the length of the
of plastic products. Founded in 1992,
tube can be adjusted to the customer’s
Designa’s focus was on custom injection
specific needs.
moulding. Over the years, its focus has shifted to rigid packaging for the cosmetics industry. Designa is a go-to South African
Plastic squeeze tubes in production • 30mm diameter squeeze tube with an
manufacturer for custom made plastic
aluminium foil anti-tamper seal and a
tubes for the cosmetics industry and for
threaded screw cap
therapeutic creams and ointments. The company offers exceptional customer service and quick turnaround times. Whilst its focus is currently on the expansion of its tube manufacturing division, Designa also offers plastic manufacturing solutions for brand owners. These needs are met with its over 40 production machines for injection moulding, injection blow moulding and injection stretch blow moulding, as well as screen and pad printing and labelling.
New products Driven by innovation, Designa now specialises in manufacturing plastic squeeze tubes. The company has a complete set-up of machinery offering a comprehensive bulk manufacturing
18
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
• 40mm diameter squeeze tube with a flip top cap.
Stock products • clear PET jars in 60, 100 and 130mℓ sizes with standard coloured caps • round roll-on bottles with a 60mℓ fill capacity and a large roll-on ball and cap • clear 60mℓ PET bottles with a puffer and lid.
WWW.DESIGNAPLASTICS.CO.ZA
PACKAGING PROFILES Contact details Rotolabel Cape Town 36 Thor Circle, Viking Place, Thornton Tel: +27 (0)21 532 55 40 Rotolabel S&N Labels 48 Forge Road, Spartan, Kempton Park Tel: +27 (0)11 975 8141 Email: Grant@rotolabel.co.za OR admin@rotolabel.co.za
– our proudest label is trust
Web: www.rotolabel.co.za
Company description
Liner recycling programme
Founded in 1982, Rotolabel has gained distinction in the supply
Rotolabel is pushing the
of world-class self-adhesive
boundaries in sustainability.
labels. Rotolabel was acquired by
In conjunction with Avery
the Bidvest Group in 2008, and
Dennison, it is one of the first
today represents the Labelling
companies in South Africa’s
Solutions division of Bidvest Paperplus
labelling industry to become
– a leading supplier of printing,
FSC compliant.
communications, packaging and
These two companies have
labelling solutions in southern Africa.
partnered with an exciting new
Rotolabel specialises in flexographic,
initiative, which is revolutionary in the
letterpress and digital print
• Retail
South African label industry. The initiative
technologies, allowing the company to
• Security
will result in tonnes of liners by diverted
print labels of consistently high quality
• Track and trace
from ending up in our country’s already
on a range of substrates with a variety
• Logistics and warehousing.
over-subscribed landfills.
XpandalabelTM booklet labels
is available for PET and glassine
is state-of-the-art finishing, which
With Rotolabel’s solution for all booklet
liners and is currently active in many
provides hot and cold foiling, silkscreen
and leaflet label needs, customers can
countries worldwide. The liner recycling
and high-build, as well as varnishing
look forward to high quality, competitively
programme will be rolled out in Cape
and laminating – everything you could
priced booklet labels. Xpandalabel TM
Town. Once the proof of concept
wish for in designing a world-class label.
booklet labels can be designed and
is realised and manufacturers and
die-cut into various shapes and sizes,
consumers see its benefits, it will be
Major products and services
and the leaflet length is suitable for all
rolled out nationally and to the industry.
• Blanks
informational needs and only limited by
• Ribbons
the final folded thickness.
of finishes. Complementing its printing resources
• Thermal printers
The liner recycling programme
Large amounts of information can
The liner is collected from customers and taken back to the Rotolabel site to be compacted. Avery Dennison then
• Barcodes and scanners
be permanently attached to the label
collects the compacted liner and loads it
• One to nine colour printing
and the container, eliminating the
into a container to be sent to India where
• Silkscreen
need for separate package inserts and
it is made into tissue paper.
• High-build
informational booklets. The elimination of
• Embossing
the package insert can also potentially
Certifications
• Digital printing on HP Indigos
lead to the elimination of the carton –
• FSC compliant
• Personalisation
and result in substantial cost savings.
• ISO 22000
• Various substrates
Further savings can also be seen through
• ISO 9001
• Wrap-around labels
the shortened packing process on the
• Mellow Colour Proficient Printer Status.
• Applicators and dispensers.
production line.
Key markets and USPs
labels, Xpandalabel TM is also great for
• Food and beverage
promotions, competitions, terms and
• Personal care
conditions, recipes, give-aways and
• Wine
coupons, and can be applied to existing
• Pharmaceutical
packaging for limited time offers.
In addition to pharmaceutical
20
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
New therapeutic approach to healthy ageing We start ageing from the day we are born. Through a complex system, our bodies chronologically renew cells and change their shape, adjusting the conditions of ageing. This is known as Epigenetics – the root of inspiration for a new active from Chemyunion. Identifying the markers
Apple and ginger extract
DNA methylation is perhaps
Chemgrit Cosmetics, has developed
the best-known epigenetic
Agen, a new active ingredient based
marker, but its challenging to
on epigenetics. Through the regulation
use in skin ageing treatments
of miRNA (micro-RNAs), Agen effectively
due to the difficulty of
reduces the signs of skin ageing.
identifying its triggers. Another mechanism, which has gained greater relevance in epigenetics, is the
Chemyunion, represented locally by
Agen is inspired by the natural nutritional components known to affect health and ageing. It is composed of a synergistic blend of apple extract (Malus
presence of microRNAs. This appears to
domestica) and supercritical ginger
be the most indicated for a therapeutic
extract (Zingiber officinale).
approach to skin ageing since more
In vivo test results show Agen contributes
than 800 miRNAs have already been
to a significant improvement in skin
ntrinsic and extrinsic factors
identified along with their impact on
firmness and elasticity after 14 days, 29
contribute to ageing, the former
protein metabolism.
percent re-densification of the dermis and
I
being hereditary while the latter, the environment, kick starts
RNA (ribonucleic acid) is the main
thickness after 60 days. The key benefits
control of cellular protein synthesis.
of the active ingredient include wrinkle
Composed of a single strand, the
reduction; improved skin resistance, integrity
RNA is produced in the nucleus of
and regeneration; and the stimulation of
is known as epigenetics, a
the cell and subsequently routed to
cell renewal and differentiation providing
phenomenon capable of modifying
the cytoplasm for protein production.
younger looking, healthier skin. •
the transformation process at a genetic level. This process of genetic change
certain genes through external factors
The ncRNAs are not translated into
such as pollution and stress. It changes
proteins, but many of them are able
the way our cells read the original genes
to regulate gene expression or even
and functions as a gene switch, stimulating or silencing genes.
22
a 40 percent improvement in epidermal
molecule involved in the process and
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
protein production, acting as a kind of genetic switch.
Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Formulating sustainable products More cosmetics manufacturers are formulating natural and eco-friendly products as public interest in sustainability increases. Ramya Sriram, digital content manager of Kolabtree, a freelance platform for scientists, discusses trends and developments in sustainable cosmetics.
C
onsumers aren’t just interested
and refining their
chemist can help you find the perfect
in the product; they’re also
formulations all the
substitute for microbeads.
interested in the process.
time. Lush is pioneering
The cosmetics industry is not
zero packaging by making
Vegan beauty
known for being eco-friendly, with its use of
its products in solid form and
The number of people living plant-based
excessive, non-recyclable packaging to a
in January 2019 the brand
lifestyles is higher than ever. Consumers are
perceived lack of transparency over ethical
opened Britain’s first packaging-free
also investing more in cruelty-free beauty
practices. However, beauty is waking up to
cosmetics shop.
and skin care products, made with plant-
consumer demand and the natural and
Many companies are also participating
derivatives and that don’t include animal
organic beauty market is estimated to reach
in the #waterlessbeauty campaign. Water
products. This is one of the latest trends in
US$54 billion by 2027.
is the cosmetics industry’s most used raw
natural cosmetics and these ingredients are
material. However, concerns of demand for
found in products ranging from moisturisers
reformulating products for cosmetics
water outstripping supply are becoming a
and cleansers to soaps and fragrances.
businesses by including more natural and
harsh reality. L'Oréal has committed to a 60
environmentally friendly emulsifiers and
percent reduction in water consumption
you can also ensue your products are
ingredients. If you do this too, your brand
per product by 2020, while Unilever is
vegan-friendly. This can be done by
will be able to meet the growing salience
committing to halving the water associated
suggesting substitute ingredients not
of sustainability. But, before you jump into
with the use of its products, also by 2020.
derived from animals. If you are planning
Development chemists are now
developing your eco-friendly cosmetics, there are a few trends worth watching.
With the help of a formulation chemist,
on entering the world of natural beauty,
Beyond microbeads
creating vegan-friendly products is a step in
Since the EU and UK ban on
the right direction. •
Sustainable cosmetics
microplastics in cosmetics came into
At the heart of the natural cosmetics
effect, natural beauty has been leading
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
movement is the value of sustainability.
the way in offering natural, sustainable
Ramya Sriram has more than
Beauty brands and manufacturers now
alternatives to microbeads in skin
10 years’ experience spanning
care and scrubs. Companies are now
content marketing, writing
producing products using oats, salt,
and editing. She is currently
dairy and even coffee as substitutes to
digital content manager at
ensure regulatory compliance.
Kolabtree, a start-up based in London,
realise it’s no longer a fad and that consumers expect transparency over their sustainability programmes before choosing whether or not to buy. Companies appear to be
One purpose of microbeads is to exfoliate the skin. However, it’s possible
united on reducing the impact
to get this effect without using plastic.
of plastic pollution, changing
If you are producing cosmetics or skin
their packaging strategies
care products, a freelance formulation
UK, which helps businesses hire freelance scientists.
Kolabtree – www.kolabtree.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
23
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Innovative ingredients inspired by nature Danlink Ingredients, a distributor of speciality ingredients and additives for the food industry, has diversified into personal care. The company introduces its newest principal, Kialab, an Italian producer of smart ingredients for personal care applications.
W
orking in conjunction with universities, start-ups and R&D centres, Kialab develops and markets new ingredients
for the cosmetics industry. The company focuses on ‘nature-like’ ingredients, often inspired by the concept of biomimicry, or it valorises agri-food by-products and biomasses, isolating value-added molecules and positioning them as high-value ingredients for cosmetics.
Sugarderms are saccharides obtained using a bio-fermentation process application i.e. treated armpit and non-
Sugarderm H2O monosaccharides have
is the Flavocare product family, based
treated contra-lateral armpit. Test results
high capacity to bind water and quick
on propolis-derived raw materials and
showed an odour reduction of 61 percent
release capabilities because of the small
produced using a patented technology of
with the formula containing Flavocare
clusters they form. Sugarderm Age, with the
a partner company. Flavocare extracts are
Hydroglyceric, making the active
presence of trisaccharide, allows for the
said to be particularly rich and standardised
ingredient highly suitable for formulating
formation of bigger clusters with a different
in high value polyphenol fractions separated
natural, safe and efficient deodorants.
coordination of water, giving deeper
One of the first ingredients it developed
hydration to the skin (in vivo).
from the remaining or least desirable parts of propolis, such as the resin and wax.
Nutrients for the skin
To evaluate the anti-ageing efficacy of
Sugarderm is based on a number of rare
Sugarderm, Kialab tested both the H2O and
Flavocare extracts to identify less explored
mono and tri-saccharides, which Kialab
Age variants on a full thickness skin model,
areas of application. In vitro tests were
has been studying over the past few years.
evaluating each variant’s ability to stimulate
carried out successfully to determine
The mono and tri-saccharides originate
glycoproteins as collagen IV, decorin,
the antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-
from fermentation processes and display
fibrillin and the protein, elastin. Sugarderm
inflammatory activities of the extracts, while
powerful skin care activity, primarily
H2O showed a huge increase in the gene
the in vivo trials showed the extracts have
enhancing skin density and elasticity.
expression of collagen IV, elastin and fibrillin
Kialab conducted in vitro and in vivo on
multifunctional benefits. These include
Sugarderms are saccharides obtained
at 24 hours and the initial inhibition of
deodorising efficacy, helping to reduce
using a bio-fermentation process. These
decorin subsequently increased significantly
acneic lesions, regulating sebum,
saccharides have a purity of more than
within 48 hours. Sugarderm Age showed
soothing skin, reducing TEWL and anti-
95 percent. The concept is very much in line
better activity on the aforementioned
pollution benefits.
with the new trend of cosmetics products
markers within 24 hours.
based on glycobiology. Kialab currently
In vivo test results show Sugarderm
suggested by the encouraging results of the
offers two variants in the product family:
Age has an effective anti-ageing action
bacterial inhibition tests on Staphyloccocus
• Sugarderm H2O (INCI: Arabinose and
determined on several parameters such as
The deodorising power of Flavocare,
hominis and aureus was evaluated using
Fucose), is a mixture of highly pure
thickness, viscoelasticity and suppleness.
an in vivo sniff test. The protocol consisted
monosaccharides, obtained through a
The skin was also smoother and more toned
of observations at eight hours and 24 hours
fermentation method
as a direct result of the stimulation of the
from the application of one deodorant
• Sugarderm Age (INCI: Arabinose and
micro-emulsion containing 1.5 percent
Fucose and Fucosyllactose), is a mixture
Flavocare Hydroglyceric, on a panel of
of highly pure oligosaccharides and
20 subjects. Test were conducted under
monosaccharides, also obtained through
controlled conditions using asymmetrical
fermentation method.
24
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
elastin and collagen network. •
Danlink Ingredients – www.danlink.com Kialab – www.kialab.it/en
We are a team with more than 20 years’ experience in R&D, Regulatory, Marketing and Sales. Since 2012 we operate in Italy and abroad in the Personal Care business offering innovative ingredients and developing tailor-made smart compounds. Constructive dialog and teamwork with a look into the future are the key of our success.
Kialab is represented in South Africa by:
Danlink Ingredients is distributor of speciality raw materials to the Personal Care Industry. Representing only reputable and reliable suppliers, the company strives to provide world class service with technical and commercial support.
(JHB) 011 7047261  (CPT) 021 9139818 đ&#x;“§đ&#x;“§ info@danlink.com î„Ť www.danlink.com
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Get a lighter, more even complexion with rainbow algae
Codif laboratories continues to push the boundaries of the cosmetics and bio-technological industries, drawing inspiration from plankton, seaweeds and flora. The company’s newest active ingredient, Cywhite G is proven to inhibit melanogenesis, promoting more luminous even tone skin.
I
n 2018, Martin Lopez-Garcia of the
up to 60cm in length by the end of spring.
International Iberian Nanotechnology
Its branches are covered in spines, which
Laboratory and his team published a new
become iridescent when placed in water.
study on the phenomenon of iridescence
The colour of the branches changes from
in algae. The study found the iridescence is
green to violet passing through blue.
due to the regular stacking of fat balls within
Cystoseira tamariscifolia, or rainbow algae, changes in colour when exposed to light of varying intensity
foreshore to the place of harvest, where
pockets localised in the epidermal cells.
Rainbow algae
Cystoseira tamariscifolia is collected by
Their function is to ensure optimum diffusion
Cystoseira tamariscifolia occurs on
hand in about 10cm of water, requiring
of light to the chloroplasts. This effect has
the coasts of the Channel and the
the use of a flat-bottomed boat to store
only been observed before in certain
Atlantic, spanning from the British Isles to
the algae during harvesting.
animals such as chameleons.
Mauritania via France, Spain, Portugal,
This adaptation seems to be a response
To minimise waste and promote
the Canary Islands and the north African
regrowth, the shoots are cut with a knife,
to environmental factors. The algae are
coasts (or western Mediterranean).
leaving the epiphyseal perennial part in
exposed to light of varying intensity which
Species-specific eco-systems such as
place. The algae are shaken in the water
changes with the tide and depth of the
Cystoseira tamariscifolia are harvested
to remove sand and periwinkles and
water and enables the algae to improve
where other species of economic interest
bagged in potato sacks. Thereafter they
the diffusion of ambient light.
are not present. The harvesting area is
are pre-faded on racks to be dehydrated
Cystoseira tamariscifoliais a brown alga
located a few kilometres from the coast.
naturally. Drying can be also completed
belonging to the order of Fucales, reaches
The harvester drives a tractor along the
in an electric dryer at 50°C. The goal is to
GLOBAL COSMETIC PRODUCT REGULATORY COMPLIANCE SOLUTIONS Intertek provides a comprehensive range of services for beauty and personal care products to ensure quality, safety, efficacy and regulatory compliance. Partnering with Intertek helps brands and producers to speed up their international growth, optimise the quality and safety of their supply chain and reduce total costs. Our Services Include: • Literature Review & Data Collection • Toxicological Profiles of Ingredients • Regulatory Dossiers • Toxicological Safety Assessment • Labelling Reviews
26
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
MORE INFORMATION +44 116 263 9621
• • • • •
Microbiology & Stability Testing Cosmetic Packaging Analysis Causality Assessment Compliance Solutions Regulatory Support
hersuk-regtox@intertek.com
intertek.com/cosmetics/ global-reg-compliance-forcosmetic-products/
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS promote natural drying. As a result, the
for their maturation, resulting in a 25
harvest periods are not only reliant on the
percent decrease in PMEL 17 (PMEL17 =
role of cathepsin L2 in the process of
tides but also to the weather.
PreMELanosome protein).
melanosome degradation. Research
The extraction is processed using a
Tyrosinase is the enzyme that synthesises
Many publications suggest the primary
conducted by Codif laboratories has
patented enzymatic cocktail of specific
melanin. Its expression is modulated by
shown that UV exposure results in a 26
sugars and proteins, which are neither
different genes. Cywhite G stimulates
percent decrease in CTSL2.
GMO nor of animal origin. At the end of
the expression of the DKK1 gene, whose
the process, the enzymes are inactivated
role is to limit the activity of tyrosinase.
stimulates the expression of Cathepsin L2
by heating them up to 80°C.
The extract also slows the transfer of
by 35 percent. By acting on the key points
melanosomes to keratinocytes. SCTE
of melanin activation and synthesis, and
a cellular concentrate, Cywhite G with
is a tryptase strongly expressed in
on the degradation of melanosomes,
skin brightening properties. Cywhite
keratinocytes. It is known to activate the
Cywhite G has a lightening action. After 16
G INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and)
PAR-2 factor involved in the phagocytosis
days of topical application of Cywhite G, a
Cystoseira tamariscifolia extract (and)
(absorption) of melanosomes by
decrease in the amount of melanin in the
Phenoxyethanol. The active is also
keratinocytes. The extract limits the
epidermis was noted.
available in a Cosmos approved
transfer of melanosomes via a decrease in
version, INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and)
the enzyme SCTE.
From this rainbow alga, Codif extracts
Cystoseira tamariscifolia extract.
Cystoseira tamariscifolia extract
This truly unique ingredient from the sea, with its chameleon like properties to decrease global pigmentation, is ideal
New brightening targets
for formulations to address pigmentary
Melanosome absorption
The role of cathepsins in the degradation
disorders of the skin.
Used in a formulation at one to 1.5
of melanosomes is more and more studied,
percent, Cystoseira tamariscifolia extract
particularly those of cathepsin L2 (CTSL2).
are available in South Africa from Vantage
prevents the maturation of melanosomes.
These are hydrolytic enzymes involved in
Specialty Chemicals. •
It’s only after the maturation phase that
epidermal differentiation. The expression of
the melanosomes are able to synthesise
CTSL2 is very clearly increased in light skins
melanin. Yet Cywhite G decreases the
whose melanosome degradation activity is
expression of the molecule responsible
greater than in dark skins.
Active ingredients from Codif laboratories
Codif laboratories – www.codif-tn.com/en Vantage Specialty Chemicals – www.vantagegrp.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
27
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
A modern take on historical biological resources For centuries, indigenous and rural communities worldwide have been dependant on biological resources to treat skin and health ailments. Today, this knowledge is often used for academic research and the development of commercial products.
B
otanica Natural Products’ main
and the fixing of atmospheric carbon.
business activity is the cultivation
Traditionally, the fleshy leaves have been
of the indigenous South African
used to treat dermatitis and chronic sores.
plant, Bulbine frutescens, as
Bulbine frutescens is also an indigenous
well as Moringa oleifera. It has also
succulent. Its clear gel is similar in
established a plantation of 250 000
appearance and consistency to aloe vera
Spekboom (Portulacaria afra) to offset its
gel and has been widely used in traditional
carbon emissions and reduce soil erosion.
medicine as an effective remedy for topical
The company is currently investigating
ailments, including burns, wounds, cuts,
the potential of Spekboom to combat
abrasions, rashes and boils. Although there is
dermatological conditions.
An aerial view of Botanica Natural Products’ production facility and plantation, based in Alldays, Limpopo
Moringa oleifera, also known as the ‘miracle tree’, is a fast growing, drought resistant tree, native to the sub-Himalayan
Egyptian, Roman and Greek communities
region. The tree has been used for a
used Moringa for the treatment of dry skin.
variety of purposes and is widely known
Spekboom is an indigenous succulent
for its range of impressive properties.
shrub commonly used in veld restoration
substantial traditional knowledge associated with the use of this species, Botanica Natural Products is the first commercial producer of this water based gel. There is evidence of Moringa oleifera, Portulacaria afra and Bulbine frutescens being used in southern African traditional
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| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
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SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS The indigenous succulent shrub, Spekboom
medicine for skin care
activity of each species was
effective against the ringworm pathogen.
applications. As a result,
tested individually and in
Moringa oleifera and Portulacaria afra
Botanica’s success is
combination. The anti-infective
combined showed the best activity against
largely attributed to the
properties were then compared
the acne pathogen. The greatest synergistic
traditional knowledge
against each of the
held by local and
results. Toxicity was
indigenous communities.
also examined as
effects were seen with Portulacaria afra combined with Bulbine frutescens, against a bacterium that causes smelly feet.
For this reason, since its
combining these
inception in 2009, the company has
species could
oleifera and Bulbine frutescens
possibly reduce any
demonstrated no toxicity at all. When
worked closely with the Department of Environment, Forestry and Fisheries to
toxicity, if present.
ensure knowledge holders are equitably compensated for their expertise, innovations and practices associated with these medicinal plant species.
For the purpose An example of how Bulbine frutescens could be used in a skin care application
When examining toxicity, Moringa
Portulacaria afra, which demonstrated some toxicity alone, was combined
of the study,
with Bulbine frutescens, the toxicity was
fresh plant
reduced by half.
samples were
These studies demonstrate that some
obtained from Botanica and processed at
pharmacological effects are enhanced in
Research for product development
the university for antimicrobial and toxicity
combination. The plant species also show
testing. For the antimicrobial studies, the
potential when looking at treatments for
Professor Sandy van Vuuren from
plant species were tested against the
acne and ringworm. To further contribute
the Department of Pharmacy and
following bacteria:
to this research, Botanica has plans to
Pharmacology at the University of
• Cutibacterium acne, responsible
continue working with the University of
Witwatersrand has investigated
for acne
Witwatersrand to determine the anti-
whether the combination of Moringa
• Candida albicans, causing fungal
inflammatory effects of the three plant
oleifera, Portulacaria afra and Bulbine frutescens would have a superior effect on skin ailments than each individual species used alone. The antimicrobial
infections on the skin
species when combined. •
• Trichophyton mentagrophytes, a fungus that causes ringworm. When tested alone, the samples were most
Botanica Natural Products – www.botanica.africa
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
29
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Promoting sustainable supply chains for responsible products Increased environmental consciousness has prompted the cosmetics industry to develop new sustainable solutions that don’t compromise on performance. With programmes for the sustainable cultivation of renewable raw materials, BASF is helping manufacturers provide consumers with responsible skin and hair care products while benefitting rural communities.
B
ASF Care Creations recently
fruits have long been
launched three active ingredients
used to treat dysentery
DID YOU KNOW?
and Rambuvital (INCI: Maltodextrin [and]
Dong Nai province in In 2019, BASF celebrated 25 Southeast Vietnam. years of having a sustainability due to their richness in Over an area of three strategy in place. In 1994, the company adopted its Vision 2010, iron, vitamin C, fibre hectares, the gardens which oriented BASF towards and antioxidants. feature around 200 the principles of sustainable The rinds contain rambutan trees aged development. At that time, it was one of the first companies compounds with 25 to 30 years. When worldwide to publicly antioxidant properties cultivated well, the trees commit to sustainable development. and the seeds have been can live for up to 100 years,
Nephelium Lappaceum [Seed] Extract).
shown to decrease unwanted
Extracted from the spiny fruit peel, the
fat. Even the pulp is known to have
evergreen leaves and the seeds, the
health benefits – it boosts energy and
income stream for years to come. To
bio-actives offer skin and hair protection
immunity, prevents diseases and helps
make this possible, BASF encourages and
against pollution, dehydration and signs
eliminate free radicals.1
emphasises organic, sustainable farming
based on the Southeast-Asian rambutan tree, namely Nephydrat
(INCI: Glycerin [and] Water [and] Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract), Nephoria (INCI: Maltodextrin [and] Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract)
of ageing. What’s more is the impact of
Despite rambutan’s wide range of
providing the rural communities from the region with a reliable
practices, and implements measures to
these bio-actives goes far beyond the
benefits, farmers primarily sell the juicy
personal care industry. With its dedicated
fruits. Thanks to BASF’s interdisciplinary
Rambutan Programme, launched in
innovation platforms, they can now
partners from the region, both gardens
2015, BASF has established a socially and
also make use of the parts of the plant
received organic certification in 2017,
environmentally responsible supply chain
which mostly go to waste. This upcycling
making them the first certified gardens
for bioactive production in Vietnam.
programme gives farmers an opportunity
of their kind in Vietnam. BASF also set up
to generate a new income stream with
a dedicated rambutan team to oversee
an above average income. As a result,
maintenance of the organically certified
the cooperation has a positive impact on
gardens and harvest the fruit between
Vietnamese rural society.
July and September. The team sorts stems,
Upcycling to benefit farmers The rambutan tree, native to Indonesia and Malaysia, is renowned
ensure organic farming compliance. Thanks to the joint efforts of BASF and
leaves and fruits, removes the pericarp,
throughout Asia for
Sustainable, organic sourcing
separates pulp and seeds and leaves the
its various health
For its Rambutan Programme, BASF
parts to dry naturally. The cooperation is a
benefits. The juicy
selected two rambutan gardens in the
win-win situation for everyone. While BASF benefits from the team members’ unique expertise, they receive a steady, above
Rambutan fruit
average income, health insurance and free meals. The pilot harvest of fruit peels, leaves and seeds took place in 2018. In the same year, BASF initiated an access and benefit sharing (ABS) protocol and entered into a contract with the supplier. Large scale harvesting commenced in 2019.
Built on decades of experience The Rambutan Programme is based on the experience BASF gained from
30
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS Freshly picked oil palm fruits
the Argan Programme it launched in southern Morocco in 2005. The company teamed up with Targanine, a network of six oil processing cooperatives from the region of Agadir, to study the argan tree and how it could use the tree’s oil and by-products. More than 1 000 women from rural communities now work in the cooperatives – a six-fold increase since the start of the programme. The cooperative members market several products, including by-products, botanical and essential oils and bee products. Both parties benefit from the partnership
has committed to spur the production of
– BASF purchases the oil and its by-
sustainable palm oil products. To speed up
products under fair trade conditions,
this process, in 2018 the company initiated
including a non-negotiated premium
a major shift of its speciality portfolio and
price, payment in advance, a fair-
offers exclusively RSPO certified sustainable
trade premium for the oil and long-term
palm-based speciality ingredients for the
forecasts. What’s more, 50 percent of
personal care industry.
Standard. It’s been shown that trained and
the price paid for the pulp is allocated
Apart from a certification system and
certified farmers receive on average a 47
to social funds within the cooperatives.
maximum transparency, social measures
percent higher income than farmers who
The money is used on schemes such as
for local communities, especially
didn’t participate in the programme. The
literacy programmes and health related
smallholders, are key steps towards
first Rainforest Alliance Certified coconut
initiatives. The cooperation also fosters
protecting high carbon stock forests. BASF
oil was produced in 2018 with the support
preservation of the argan forest by the
has partnered with other stakeholders
of this partnership.
population from the region.
along the supply chain to enhance the
A collaborative approach
BASF’s positive impact on both the
living conditions of the people in farming
environment and society is firmly anchored
areas by improving agricultural practices,
in the company’s global sustainability
Being versatile, easy to process and
increasing yields and helping to preserve
strategy with four defined focus areas:
providing yields per hectare that distinctly
forests. Continuous education and
1. climate protection
outreach those of sunflower, rapeseed
technical support help smallholder farmers
2. sustainable product portfolio
and other vegetable oils, palm oil is
implement and maintain sustainable palm
3. responsible procurement
the most widely used vegetable oil. Its
oil practices.
4. engaged employees.
unique chemical properties also make
Projects such as the Rambutan and Argan
it irreplaceable for the oleo derivate
Benefitting coconut farmers
programmes, as well as BASF’s efforts
business. The majority of oil palm products
A similar approach is being utilised for
towards certified sustainable palm and
used by BASF are based on palm kernel oil
the cultivation of coconut palms. BASF
coconut oil prove the strategy to be a
and its derivatives and to a lesser extent
cooperated with Cargill, Procter & Gamble
success. They show it is possible to fulfil
on palm oil. As palm cultivation is linked
(P&G) and the Deutsche Gesellschaft für
consumer demand for products that are
to deforestation, loss of biodiversity and
Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) in
as good for the planet as are they for the
social conflicts in the producing countries
a development partnership under the
hair and skin – and this innovation goes
– mainly Indonesia and Malaysia – BASF
develoPPP.de programme. The partnership
beyond the lab. By sourcing raw materials
was commissioned by the German Federal
responsibly, BASF is making a sustainable
Ministry for Economic Cooperation and
contribution to rural communities. •
Trained and certified farmers receive on average a 47 percent higher income than farmers who didn’t participate in the programme
Development (BMZ) to establish a certified coconut oil supply chain and improve the livelihood of coconut farmers in the Philippines and Indonesia. Over the past four years, more than
REFERENCE 1. Hernandez-Hernandez C, Aguilar CN, Rodriguez-Herrera R, Flores-Gallegos AC, Morlett-Chavez J, Govea-Salas M, AscacioValdes JA. Rambutan (Nephelium Lappaceum L.): nutritional and
4 100 coconut farmers have been
functional properties. Trends in food science & technology, 85,
trained in Good Agricultural and
201-210, 2019
processing Practices (GAP) as well as Farm Management practices. About 1 600 farmers received additional training and have been certified according to the Rainforest Alliance Sustainable Agriculture
BASF – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem www.botanichem.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
31
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab FOCUS Equipment & Services
Scientific instruments
to help you realise your vision Labotec has partnered with the world’s leading brands to bring home the best quality in analytical equipment. The company offers a range of solutions that meet the current laboratory, analysis and diagnostic needs of the South African pharma industry.
W
ith the refrigerant regulation
has no breakthrough of organics, silicone
for fluorinated greenhouse
or boron.
gases having been significantly tightened,
PureSure provides customers with the confidence they are receiving the
German company Weiss Technik in
highest guaranteed quality of water at
collaboration with Dresden University of
all times.
Technology, has researched alternatives to R23 refrigerant for use in environmental
Buchi demonstrations
simulation systems.
World renowned for
Weiss Technik is proud to present its
The Purelab Chorus 1 analytical research model from Elga Labwater
commercialising the
newly developed WT69 refrigerant in a
first modern rotary
ClimeEvent climatic test chamber. The
evaporator, Buchi
Weiss simulation systems, including
manufactures state of
the ClimeEvent, are available locally
the art equipment for
from Labotec.
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The newly released WT69, the pioneering
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Labotec has demo
User protection during precision weighing
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• KjelMaster K-375 Distillation unit,
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colorimetric titrations • E-800 Universal Extractor, suitable for any
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• the safe, compact and simple C-850
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• NIR Proximate and N-500 for
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32
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
A ClimeEvent climatic test chamber
convenience and enables individual
weighing cabinets are designed for the safe weighing of hazardous chemical powders and liquids. The
cabinets are designed and produced internationally by Erlab and distributed locally by Labotec. Erlab’s unique flex filtration technology allows any liquid and solid chemicals to be filtered in the molecular and HEPA filters. The cabinet can be fitted with a sensor to detect saturation of the filters of any solvents, acids or formaldehyde detection. It delivers the proper airflow at the face of the enclosure and total filtration of hazardous powders or potent pharmaceutical compounds. The cabinets are ‘smart’ in that safety can be controlled remotely using the eGuard App installed on any desktop or mobile device. When connected, the eGuard App allows the user to monitor one or several devices remotely. Once a product has been registered, the eGuard App can be used to receive safety alerts, view usage statistics and enhance the user’s experience via customised reports. •
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PHARMA FOCUS//Lab FOCUS Equipment & Services
Analyse, identify and verify in a flash Drug analysis needs to be cost-effective without compromising on accuracy. This is an important principle for routine quality control and the identification of potentially harmful counterfeit medicines. The essence of Metrohm’s spectroscopy solutions are based on this as well as speed, versatility, application focus and compliance.
N
ear-infrared spectroscopy, or
One example of
NIRS for short, is a useful element
the extraordinary
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It’s a winning choice thanks to
technology brings
the minimal time and labour resources it
is simultaneous
requires, as well as the fully automated
determination
online analyses it offers. NIRS also
of the five active
takes simultaneous analysis of multiple
pharmaceutical
substances in its stride.
ingredients (APIs)
Quality by Design (QbD) and process
used in tablets
analytical technology (PAT) are two
designed to relieve
concepts that have become watchwords
flu symptoms. These
for the US Food and Drug Administration
are paracetamol,
(FDA). These approaches aim to
ascorbic acid,
increase efficiency in the development
dextromethorphan
and production of pharmaceuticals. In
hydrobromide,
features streamline verification routines
QbD’s case, trial and error processes are
caffeine and chlorphenamine
and include an automated training set
replaced with a design, which, from outset, is optimally tuned to the ways in
maleate.This method is validated in accordance with the directives of the International Conference
builder and improved model analysis tools. Soft- and firmware improvements, like a colour coded audit trail with advanced
which the drug will be
on Harmonisation, the
used further down the
European Medicines
easily reference samples even in
line i.e. adapted to suit
Agency, and the
massive databases.
the patient population
Pharmaceutical Analytical
and how it will be
Sciences Group. As a
customisable reports, automated report
result, NIRS can serve as
generation and export, and in-software
an approved alternative to
viewing and printing. Following USP and
administered. Without PAT, the QbD approach could not survive. Process analysis is used to monitor production in real time. It allows alterations to be
the more complex reference method, which requires separate determinations, using HPLC and titration.
made during the process itself in order to
management features, ensure users can
FDA compliance is met with
EP guidelines has never been easier with the new calibrate/verify accessory. This innovative attachment ensures accurate performance of Mira P and the quality of results with a thorough calibration and
achieve the intended quality. It also helps
Portable spectrometry
to improve understanding of the product
For rapid, reliable analysis, Metrohm offers
and process.
Mira P – a Raman solution for the pharma
tested, as expected from Metrohm’s
verification routine. Mira P is IP67 rated and MILSPEC 810G
industry. It brings enhanced resolution,
Five in one
rugged handheld analysers. Its new
new immersion sampling and validation
guided workflow makes Mira P an ideal
Metrohm NIRS is a textbook example
accessories packed in ergonomic features
solution for demanding pharmaceutical
of process analytical technology, with
that improve user experience. This fast,
environments, from verification of morning
numerous publications describing how it’s
easy and accurate device helps users
deliveries to reviewing a day’s audit trail,
implemented in pharmaceutical quality
optimise the inspection of incoming
the device helps increasing the efficiency
control processes – before, during and
goods, formulation verification and
of the typical workflow in the pharma
after production. The peaks and troughs
process monitoring.
manufacturing industry. •
found in NIR spectra conceal a multitude
Mira P and its dedicated software,
of chemical and physical information,
MiraCal P, were developed in
making chemometric methods key to
collaboration with some of the world’s
sifting through and decrypting the info.
leading pharma companies. New
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| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
Metrohm – www.metrohm.com/en-za
Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has been Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories operating for 39 years, and is a key player in the is a registered company specializing complementary medicine manufacturing arena in in manufacturing and packing of South Africa.
complementary medicines for third party
Hersol manufactures widelocal rangeSouth of products in companies withina the African various dosage forms: including tablets – single and market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film to a Quality Management System which coating), effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, embraces current Good Manufacturing topical preparations such as; creams, gels, ointments Practices in accordance Medicines and lotions, syrups and liquids. with Hersol prides itself onControl quality assured products, which have Council requirements. undergone various compliance checkpoints. Hersol has a highly qualified team who are constantly growing through Hersol’s extensive facility features a fully training and education.
equipped Laboratory to ensure quality
Laminar Flow in Microbiology Laboratory
The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities
In of addition to the manufacturing of complementary raw materials and finished products. pharmaceutical products, Hersol also offers Contract It has modern manufacturing facilities Packing. Hersol has a packing department consisting for blending, granulating, compressing & of 13 packing lines employing over 100 people. coating tablets as well as encapsulating Hersol’s packing services extend to the following: Hersol has state of the • capabilities. Containers • art Bottles on-site packing facilities, including • Unit Cartons a recently introduced blister packing • Shrink Wrapping • machine. Blistering In addition, Hersol has facilities manufacture • to Combo Packing and pack syrups, creams,
gels and ointments.
Pack sizes include 30s, 60s,120s,180s and even 200s.
Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly
HPLC Testing
Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines
Hersol is proud to note that it has a fully accredited competent Team with Laboratory, splitManagement between Wet chemistry, an vast instrument room withsubject HPLC’s, matter AA, GC and pharmaceutical knowledge Dissolution and DT baths, as well as a comprehensive and experience in staff motivation so as to Microbiological laboratory. All equipment is calibrated achieve a superior product. and checked on a regular basis as per the regulations, and the staff undergo rigorous regular updates and Hersol registered with: accurate and training for is competency, to ensure consistent results are obtained. t South African Medicines Control Council
t South African Pharmaceutical Council
Hersol is registered with: t South African Department of Health • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority Health Product Association – HPA •t South African Pharmaceutical Council •t South African Department Health Cosmetics, Toiletriesofand Fragrances • Health Product Association – HPA Association • Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility • FDA Food Facility
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2
fax: +27 11 614 4615
email: enquiries@hersol.co.za admin@hersol.co.za
web: www.hersol.co.za
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
An evolution in modular water treatment To produce pharmaceuticals, the water used for manufacturing, cleaning and as a raw material needs to comply with strict regulations regarding purity standards. With its most recent plant expansion, Aspen Pharmacare turned to Veolia Water Technologies for its water treatment and purification needs.
which will produce 9 000ℓ per hour of European and US Pharmacopoeia compliant purified water for the production of clean utilities for Aspen Pharmacare. The pre-treatment skids were designed and produced locally, and commissioning took place in October 2019.
After sales service and tech support Veolia provides continuous operations and maintenance support for all purified water generation and distribution plants installed at Aspen’s Port Elizabeth site.
P
The Orion purified water generation unit is developed specifically for the pharmaceutical market and compliant with all industry requirements
harmaceutical manufacturing
involves the re-use and recycling of water
facilities require process water that
and wastewater.
meets strict standards of purity.
This includes continual technical support as well as the provision for the supply of spares and annual maintenance servicing when requested. ‘We also have a formal service level agreement with Aspen Pharmacare, with an optional renewal on an annual basis,’
Compliant purified water
Govender adds. According to this SLA,
water purification systems, Veolia helps
In April 2019, the contract was awarded to
Veolia performs a number of scheduled
pharmaceutical companies meet
Veolia Water Technologies South Africa for
equipment inspections through the course
regulatory compliance with a cost-
the design, supply, manufacture, delivery,
of the year to assess the performances
effective, efficient and reliable supply of
installation and commissioning of a new
of the various purified water plants
water. The company recently supplied
Orion 9000MKIII Purified Water Generation
and identify potential operational and
a water purification system to Aspen
Unit complete with pre-treatment skids for
technical issues to be addressed via
Pharmacare’s SVP2 plant expansion in
Aspen Pharmacare’s SVP 2 facility. The
preventative maintenance.
Korsten, Port Elizabeth.
Orion 9000MKIII purified water skid was
Through a range of packaged
Aspen Pharmacare has a long-standing relationship with Veolia Water Technologies South Africa, where the company’s
Pharmaceutical industry water
imported by sea freight from SOLYS UK,
treatment systems from Veolia include
another Veolia business unit.
solutions for purified water, highly
‘This was freighted on completion
purified water, pyrogen-free water, and
Orion purified water systems have been
of the factory acceptance test in mid-
water for injection (WFI). The solutions
supplied to meet the pharmaceutical
August,’ says Vashlin Govender, business
are supplied in South Africa, throughout
manufacturer’s requirements for purified
development manager, Veolia Water
Africa and internationally. •
water. This will be the sixth Orion purified
Technologies South Africa. The Orion
water installation at Aspen Pharmacare’s
9000MKIII E-Series is a hot water sanitisable
Port Elizabeth-based site as part of its
reverse osmosis and CEDI based purified
Stockholm Clean Utilities project, which
water generator with BES duplex softeners,
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| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
Veolia Water Technologies South Africa – www.veoliawatertechnologies.co.za
COMPANY FOCUS
A leader in the field of speciality pharma products Marsing & Co Africa is a full-service agent, importer and distributor of pharmaceutical ingredients and packaging. Its CEO, Rob Springer shared an in-depth account with P&C Review of how the company has evolved over the years. By Abby Vorster
M
arsing & Co Africa is steeped in history. As a
Marsing & Co Africa’s purpose-built warehousing facility and corporate office, situated at Lanseria Corporate Estate
subsidiary of Marsing & Co, based in Copenhagen,
Denmark, its foundation dates back as far as just after the second world war when John Marsing discovered all the pharmaceutical factories in Europe had been destroyed. Aware of the budding pharma industry in China, he decided to travel to the country to meet with manufacturers of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and finished products, which he would soon start trading with, in an effort to rebuild the European pharma industry. He established Marsing & Co in 1943 as a trading company for active ingredients for
& Co Africa quickly became a force to
leading branded product. Springer’s team
the pharmaceutical
be reckoned with in the South African
got involved in the request, located a key
and veterinary
pharmaceutical market.
supplier in Dubai – Rak Ghani Glass – and
industries. During
since then, the pharmaceutical glass
Growing alongside its customers
packaging division of the business
expanded the trade worldwide,
While Marsing & Co Africa initially focused
has expanded.
including southern and central
on supplying speciality ingredients to
Africa, where SA Druggists was
the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and
expansion into plastic tablet jars, now well
the South African agent for Marsing &
animal feed industries, it has diversified
known in the industry as Securitainers.
Co. At the time, Springer was employed
over the years in line with the needs of its
Working in-conjunction with Pulse Plastics,
by SA Druggists as a sales manager.
customers. This has ranged from acquiring
whose factory is a purpose-designed
After the company was acquired by
new suitable suppliers of printed aluminium
cleanroom facility specifically set up
an industrial chemical company, its
and laminate tubes for pharmaceutical
to manufacture of pharma packaging
focus on supplying speciality pharma
ointments and creams, empty gelatine
containers, Marsing & Co Africa
ingredients was reduced, creating
capsules and specialised glass and
introduced its Securitainers to the market
a perfect opportunity for Springer to
packaging for the pharmaceutical industry.
in 2017.
the ’60s and ’70s, he Rob Springer, CEO of Marsing & Co Africa
establish his own business.
This was followed by the company’s
With each of these requests, Marsing & Co Africa has travelled to key markets
A solid and successful team
Springer registered the business in
all over the world, including Asia, India
Above key relationships with customers
June 1994. He says the local company’s
and the Middle East, to locate the right
and principals, Marsing & Co Africa has
success over the past 26 years is
international suppliers of innovative
always put its employees first. Springer
as a result of ‘not only being able
solutions for its customers throughout
says this directive has been central to the
to supply quality chemicals for the
southern Africa.
longevity of the company.
As the CEO of Marsing & Co Africa,
pharmaceutical industry but also being
Another key development for the
‘Our team includes dynamic sales
able to provide economic solutions and
company was its expansion into
coordinators and efficient administrative
the logistics of getting products from
pharmaceutical glass packaging. In 2011,
staff, geared towards fulfilling the
all over the world and delivering them
a South African cough syrup manufacturer
requirements of our customers,’ he
locally’. This was a significant difficulty
approached Marsing & Co Africa to
comments. ‘We encourage all our staff
for the industry in ’90s and why Marsing
source a clear cough syrup bottle for its
to gain knowledge about our customers
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| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
The team at Marsing & Co Africa
We’ve had one resignation in the history of the company
COMPANY FOCUS
and ensures the standard operating procedures of a pharmaceutically
Marsing & Co Africa’s warehousing staff
compliant warehouse are maintained. The company also prides itself on a minimal staff turnover with most of its
says Springer, who is still very hands on in the business. Feeling positive, Springer is certain
employees being long serving. ‘We’ve
and their products, and to keep up to
had one resignation in the history of the
Marsing & Co Africa will continue along
date with industry developments through
company,’ says Springer.
the same lines of success in 2020,
leading publications and regular visits to
Betty Bilankulu, on the housekeeping
expanding enormously as the market
team, has been with the company since the
demands. ‘We are aware of what’s
beginning. Both Scott Watson and Lorenza
coming next and have the enthusiasm
R600 000 on training its warehousing staff,
Ciavaglia, who have been employed since
and knowledge to meet the demand,’
to ensure their complete understanding of
December 1995, remain with the Company
he concludes. •
the newly introduced Granite Warehousing
as sales and finance director respectively.
international exhibitions.’ In 2018, the company spent over
System which incorporates a computerised
‘Scott and Lorenza have been appointed
handling system. This helps the team
shareholders of the business in honour of
comply with Good Warehousing Practices
their outstanding contribution and loyalty,’
Marsing & Co Africa – www.marsing-sa.com
The evolution of innovation for Marsing & Co Africa 1943 John Marsing launches Marsing & Co in Denmark. 1983 Rob Springer is employed as a sales manager at SA Druggists, the agent for Marsing & Co in Denmark.
June 1994 Rob Springer establishes Marsing & Co Africa.
2011 Marsing & Co Africa diversifies again into pharmaceutical glass packaging.
2002 The company establishes an agency agreement with a supplier in India to distribute empty pharmaceutical grade gelatine capsules in the South African market.
1997 Marsing & Co Africa diversifies slightly into printed aluminium tubes, toothpaste, pharmaceutical ointments and adhesives.
2017 Working with Pulse Plastics, the company establishes a pharmaceutically compliant plant and installs machinery and equipment to produce Securitainers.
October 2017 Marsing & Co Africa moves into its new pharma compliant premises in Lanseria Corporate Estate, Johannesburg.
PHARMAKINA S.A
Manufacturer of certified quinine salts from natural cinchona barks since 1949
PHARMAKINA BUKAVU Email : pk.kivu@pharmakina.com Phone +243 998 665 252
www.pharmakina.com
PHARMAKINA KINSHASA Email : pk.kin@pharmakina.com Phone +243 998 855 600
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
39
CLEANROOM TECHNOLOGY & CONTROL
Sterilisation solutions designed to provide competitive advantage Telstar offers one of the most advanced and quality alternatives worldwide in the field of sterilisation equipment under CGMP guidelines. For the pharmaceutical and biotechnological industries, it specialises in designing and producing integrated equipment for sterilisation, freeze-drying, containment and clean air.
K
nown as one of the 10 major
The fully automated process
suppliers to the global
integrated in the SteriDelta
pharmaceutical industry, Telstar
system overcomes the
has made a solid commitment
limitations of a manual
to the continuous development of technologies for the life sciences sector. Its experience is endorsed by of more than 1 700 installations of integrated process equipment and systems over the past 50 years. Telstar has a consolidated activity in the
DID YOU KNOW?
and pharmaceutical freezedrying applications,
designed to ensure an Telstar’s integration of an aseptic and efficient automated system increases loading and unloading production. This performance and productivity in the overall production process process, which requires included the SteriDelta by up to 40 percent. It further an extended cooling sterilisation system and provides an average reduction of 15 percent of the duration of phase for the product to a new multi-purpose the sterilisation cycle. Energy reach a temperature to modular autoclave consumption savings of up to 20 percent are permit manual handling. range designed to also proven. The automation on the other minimise footprint
engineering and construction of complete
hand enables unloading at
turnkey pharmaceutical and biotech
higher temperatures providing higher
production facilities, critical installations,
efficiency with an average reduction
cleanrooms and R&D laboratories. Its
of 15 percent of the duration of the
Plus, a new compact steam sterilising
portfolio also includes GMP consultancy
sterilisation cycle, saving up to 20
autoclave with GMP design. The
for regulatory compliance and IT solutions
percent in energy consumption.
autoclave includes hinged front-facing
for regulated processes and logistics management.
The robotised sterilisation system is
while maximising maintenance access. It also showcased the Telstar Sterimega
access panels, which open completely
designed to be highly versatile and can
to provide full access to the technical
gradually be implemented based on the
area of the equipment.
Automated sterilisation system
particular needs of greenfield or existing
The company offers one of the most
units. Engineered to sterilise large batches,
A global footprint
advanced and quality alternatives
the equipment includes a Telstar Scada
Headquartered in Terrassa, Barcelona,
worldwide in the field of sterilisation
supervisory, control and data acquisition
Spain, Telstar has a workforce of 900
equipment under cGMP guidelines. The
system providing full production line
people. The company invests three
SteriDelta sterilisation system integrates
traceability, helping to store, retrieve and
percent of its turnover in research and
robotised processing for preparing
transfer process knowledge.
development and in the innovation of
the product arriving from one or more
technologies and equipment. It operates
filling lines to be loaded directly into the
New solutions on show
in over 100 countries and has four
steriliser chamber without any human
At CPhI and P-MEC India, which took
production plants, seven technology
intervention. The automated system is
place in Delhi from 26 to 28 November,
centres, 12 consultancy and engineering
engineered to cover whole operational
Telstar showcased the latest solutions in
services centres and commercial offices
phases, connecting the sterilisation
isolation technology systems, sterilisation
located worldwide. Telstar’s manufacturing
process from the filling line to the
plants are situated in Spain, China and the
inspection line.
United Kingdom. The company has had presence in India since 2007, while the Telstar brand is now represented in the Asia region by three specialised production plants and engineering centres in India, China and Bangladesh. In South Africa, Telstar is represented by MGSA Projects. •
Telstar sterilisation autoclave
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| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za Telstar – www.telstar.com
CLEANROOM TECHNOLOGY & CONTROL
One method set to harmonise disinfectant validation
With the number of standardised test methods available globally, disinfectant efficacy testing can be a daunting task as there are numerous factors to consider. Ecolab’s Validex harmonised method is set to reduce this complexity for end users and help them gain greater efficiency in their disinfectant efficacy validation processes.
H
armonisation is currently lacking
factors into consideration to develop
in the methods generally
Validex, a harmonised method that
used in the EU and the US for
supports efficacy studies conducted
disinfectant efficacy testing, with
by end users. Further supporting data
individual pitfalls and unique challenges
is also available on the performance of
characteristic of all the existing standards.
Ecolab disinfectants on a range of typical
These standards are also not specifically
surfaces and isolates relevant to the
set out for cleanroom disinfectants which
cleanroom environment.
is why adaptations to reflect a cleanroom
This additional supporting information
Using accredited laboratories, it also eases navigation through disinfectant
environment should be considered with
serves as an extension of end users’ own
efficacy testing, helping end users
the support of guidance documents such
validation data, minimising the cost
comply with the standards required for
as (USP) 40-NF35 Chapter <1072>.
and resources required for their efficacy
cleanroom decontamination. •
studies. This harmonised ‘one method’
Clear, sensible and reproducible
can give companies a transferable
Ecolab, represented in South Africa by
platform to achieve replicable results
Basan, has taken all the aforementioned
between laboratories and countries.
Basan – www.basan.co.za Ecolab – www.ecolab.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
41
CLEANROOM TECHNOLOGY & CONTROL
A handy guide to validating high purity water systems High purity water is critical to pharmaceutical processing. Validation of the systems used to produce high purity water and close adherence to the SOPs are essential to maintaining the quality and integrity of the water generated. Kenneth Amaral of Fabtech outlines points to consider in order to increase the odds of successful validation.
W
ater is the most widely
and quality of water during operations
• operating procedures
used raw material
and maintaining this according
• maintenance instructions and records
in the production of
to specific written operating and
• training of personnel
pharmaceuticals, and in
maintenance procedures.
• environmental records
some products, like parenterals, it’s a
The following factors are involved in
• plant inspection documentation.
vital element. Water is also used to clean
proving the validation of high purity
Once validation is complete, an effective
vessels and systems used to manufacture
water systems:
standard operating procedure (SOP)
pharma products.
• engineering design
is finalised, with the assurance that the
• operating procedures and acceptable
system can consistently produce water
A unique aspect of high purity water used in the pharma industry is that it’s possibly the only element, which, as a rule, must be produced by the drug manufacturers themselves as it’s not available in ready to use form. Irrespective of the system used to
ranges for control parameters • maintenance procedures to accomplish it • the system has to be designed,
according to specification and over long periods. If any deviations from the SOP are observed, it’s necessary to determine the change and impact on the whole
installed and successfully tested in all
system and carry out revalidation based
operating conditions
on the change and impact.
generate high purity water, regulatory
• variations in daily, weekly and annual
Any validation protocol must include
guidelines around the world mandate
usage patterns must be validated.
the elements outlined above. However,
validation of the system. Validation
A validation report is written at the
the validation process is long and often
is necessary to monitor system
conclusion of equipment, instrumental
small details can be overlooked.
performance including that of storage
and operational qualification and
and distribution systems. It ensures
at the completion of the validation
UV Lights
the system is operating within design
protocol. This report serves as the primary
One of the most commonly overlooked
parameters along with the consistent
document during inspection by the
considerations is UV lights. When UV
production of water of a desired quality.
regulator and as a reference document
lights pass through microorganisms,
Validation also prevents unacceptable
if any changes are made to the system
they inhibit reproduction and disrupt
microbial, chemical and physical
and revalidation is needed.
the DNA of the cell. A UV lamp must function at optimum efficiency at all
impurities from being generated during water generation, storage
Documentation required
times to maintain the quality of UV rays
and distribution.
During validation, the following
and keep microbial contamination
documentation is required:
in check.
It allows manufacturers to prove the performance of processes or systems under all conditions, encountered during future operations. This is achieved by consistently producing the same quantity
• verification of design documentation
analysed before and after UV exposure
and functions and specifications
to determine whether microbiological
of functions
A reverse osmosis system installed within a pharmaceutical processing plant
42 | JANUARY
2020 | P C Review
Water samples from test ports are
including a description of installation
contamination is present. UV systems
CLEANROOM TECHNOLOGY & CONTROL Biofilm formation
RO, EDI and UF water treatment system designed and constructed by Fabtech
A well-known problem that plagues the
Chemical cleaning and sanitisation
water industry is biofilm. This is formed if
Sanitising is done in a two step process,
water is stagnant even for a short while.
which involves the use of an acidic
Bacteria, microbes, pathogens (E. coli
reagent such as citric acid to remove
and salmonella) and other organisms
inorganic foulants. This is followed by
present in water attach themselves to
a high pH reagent such as sodium
the inner surface of pipelines and lead
hydroxide, which helps to remove
to the formation of biofilms. The initial
organic foulants. The reverse osmosis
biofilm formation is a slimy, hydrophobic
system is sanitised using formaldehyde
layer that enables microorganisms to
or hydrogen peroxide and then
remain attached to the surface. Because
thoroughly rinsed until all chemicals are
of the presence of bacteria, biofilm
flushed out of the system.
Buyer’sguide also damages pipes. Bacteria produce
microorganisms; they contribute to their
hydrogen sulphite, which reacts with iron
and sanitisation must be carried out at
reduction by two to three logs, with the
in pipes and causes corrosion.
regular intervals, using a schedule based
THE
are never absolute in the reduction of
reduction sometimes around the level of 100cfu per millilitre.
The removal of biofilm is both expensive
This process of chemical cleaning
on the level of microbial concentrations
and challenging, making prevention the
and samples collected from the
preferred route by any means. To control
second pass reverse osmosis permeate
procedures, UV lamps must be replaced
microbial growth, the reverse osmosis
outlet. As per the SOP, cleaning and
every six months as quartz in most
system must be cleaned and sanitised
sanitisation should be carried out every
lamps accumulates impurities in raw
regularly, particularly first pass reverse
10 to 15 days. A detailed log should be
water. The ballast that provides power
osmosis. Cleaning before sanitisation
maintained along with periodic test
to the UV lamp should also be changed
helps disrupt the biofilm that protects the
results of an increase in microbial growth
every two to three years. Intensity
bacteria and does not allow it to come in
of permeate water. •
meters are a must as they assist in the
contact with the sanitising reagent. It will
maintenance of the UV lamp and
also remove foulants that react to and
As per standard validation
2017/2018
Fabtech – www.fabtechnologies.com
Buyer’sguide chemically deplete the sanitising reagent.
THE
with validation.
2018/2019 2019/2020
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1
2018/05/07 3:09 PM
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
43
COLOUR COSMETICS
Be inspired to create the perfect look With the start of a new decade comes a new aesthetic. Inspiring a fresh set of colours and looks, Karen Maier, head of performance materials for Merck South Africa, explores makeup for the modern woman in the company’s Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer 2020 colour forecasts.
T
he Radical Aesthete is
radiant pigments for an ethereal
fearless. There are four distinct colour
a woman who does not
holographic effect.
stories in this season with a common
compromise. She looks for
thread evident in each look – this is the
Real yet romantic
power of one’s ability to turn your dreams
harmony, sharp and precise lines
While the realms of the mermaids and
into reality.
and absolute contrasts. Her beauty is
unicorns are enticing, women still need
uncompromising; navy and black add
to prove themselves in the real world.
woman who seeks a new spirituality
strength and depth to the eyes and
Taking charge in boardrooms and
while staying true to her core beliefs.
the lips, while graphic lines are used to
running large corporations, an elegant
She looks for authenticity in her daily life,
great effect. Contrast and interesting
and noble style is more natural and
embracing a minimalist approach. Her
powerful and fundamental
textures complete the narrative – lacquered, ultra-glossy, velvety and metallised textures all have their role to play in this tale of black. For each strong woman immersing herself in the dark black narrative, there is a dreamer – a Punk Princess – who is a committed leader among the light hearted. The Punk Princess dreams of grunge romanticism and street poetry while bathing herself in iridescent and pastel
Metallised, ultra-glossy shades feature on lips, pampered and cared for as part of an everyday beauty routine
tones. This woman strives for a happy
controlled for the Amazon Rider. We see
and healthy glow against the harsh
shades of terracotta, metallic bronze
winter, focusing on the complexion and
and noble ochre contrasted by a pop
embracing radiance and illumination.
of fiery red. The look is healthy, silky and
In her life, fun comes from creating
luminous with a gold mascara lending
the perfect magical look with ultra-
true refinement. Metallised, ultra-glossy
Spiritual Muse is a contemporary
colours are soft and the textures natural. Her complexion is at the forefront of her makeup with softly applied powdery textures to soften the features while her eyes are embellished with gold and white. Apricot, terracotta and henna tones are used on the cheeks, lips and eyes.
shades feature on lips, pampered and cared for as part of an everyday beauty
CREATE PRODUCTS WITH IRRESISTIBLE DAZZLE New from Merck, Ronastar Dazzling Lights is a body coloured pigment that features a golden, living sparkle effect. This unparalleled shade of gold underscores eccentric statements with its neo-baroque touch. It offers pure elegance and a shift towards extreme glamour mode. The smooth substrate creates crystalline and light-catching effects, thanks to an ingenious coating technology that enables formulas to produce even more sparkle from small particles. It also offers a low heavy metal content, is highly stable in formulations and provides a smooth skin feeling.
44
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
routine, offering a glamorous contrast to the overall understated aesthetic. Muse Spirit is the last Autumn/ Winter 2020 look, based on theatrical being living in a romantic, mystical dreamscape. She embraces ultra-
The glamorous Shining Queen
sophisticated glamour with playful
abandons restrictions in her approach
colour compositions and ultra-sensual
to beauty, sparkling throughout her days
femininity. This woman plays with
and nights. She is hedonistic, seeking
texture and contrasts, combining
pleasure and fun with the ability and
velvety, satiny finishes with a pop of
charm to turn each moment into a party.
fuchsia, or blending metallic, iridescent
This is a passionate and intense look,
effects with just a touch of gold to
with pops of vermillion and magenta
create fascination.
paired with shades of a tropical sunset. Magnetic blue hair mascara lends
Sparkling and spiritual
a touch of electricity to this queen’s
Merck’s Spring/Summer 2020 forecast
crowning glory. Her body sparkles with
calls for action to be bold, intense and
the sunlit tones of a body highlighter,
COLOUR COSMETICS The Invincible Woman has a strong survival spirit. She turns to science and bio-hacking to ensure her skin can withstand the modern urban lifestyle. High performing masks, saturated in active ingredients, serums and essences treat and protect her against the onslaught of the life she chooses to lead. Her preference is for sticky, rough or granular textures and the depth of nature informs her colour choices. Amphibian and swamps greens, marine algae and spirulina tones form a dark iridescent palette, conjuring up a chameleon-like beauty with a surprising use of blues and greens on the lips. Whatever the season and while her lips are bathed in sensual pink gold.
Merck’s colour forecast wall featuring sculptures produced using makeup samples that were on display at incosmetics Global 2019
Gentle versus strong
whichever end of the beauty spectrum a woman may find herself in 2020, she has the power to plot her own destiny, determining which dreams
To counterfoil the shine, Committed
mauve, menthol green and soft blue. She
to follow and how to express her own
Visionary is a gentle and devoted
crafts a fresh, natural look using artificial
unique beauty. •
woman, bathed in positive soft pastels,
hues. For the lips and cheeks there are
wearing creamy eye-shadows and a
shades of soft pink and golden apricot
tender nurturing primer. Her colours are
while nails are adorned with neo‑caramel.
Merck – www.merckgroup.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
45
COLOUR COSMETICS
Pure solutions for natural beauty products As the food and cosmetics industries converge to similar more natural and sustainable models, they’re becoming increasingly intertwined. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies explores the use of fruit and vegetable extracts to create superfood infused colour cosmetics with an uplifted brand energy.
N
atural is not a trend – it’s a
Table 1: SCT4173 XFine Natural Lip Glosses
fundamental requirement. Going beyond the
Phase
basic natural origin of
ingredients, consumers expect more
A
from cosmetics brands. People are focusing on labels, ingredients and
4173-1 %w/w
4173-2 %w/w
42.00
42.00
42.00
42.00
4.00
4.00
4.00
4.00
23.50
23.50
23.50
23.50
25.00
25.00
25.00
25.00
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.50
Natpure XFine Beetroot BR312 (or)
Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Juice (and) Citric Acid (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Maltodextrin
5.00
Natpure XFine Radish RR311 (or)
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Root Extract (and) Citric Acid (and) Maltodextrin
Natpure XFine Potato SP313 (or)
Ipomoea Batatas Tuber Extract (and) Citric Acid (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Maltodextrin
Natpure XFine Turmeric TU114
Turmeric Oleoresin (and) Gum Acacia (and) Maltodextrin
Ingredient
INCI
Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Thixcin R PC
Trihydroxystearin
Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Castor Oil
Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (and) Brassica Campestris (rapeseed) Sterols
Vitamin E Acetate
production methods, embracing niche ways of living and eating. The movement is about more than
B
just food – it’s a seismic shift in why, where and how people consume. Such as the ‘local is lekker’ and ‘love or buy local’ movements, embracing nature is here to stay. Our throwaway culture is also becoming a contentious issue and consumers
C
are looking for sustainable, ethical and responsible ways
4173-3 4173-4 %w/w %w/w
5.00
5.00
5.00
to conserve the planet’s resources. They are affiliating themselves
Beauty has opted for phyto-pigments
beauty brands, Sensient Cosmetic
with companies that share their
instead of artificial ones to colour its
Technologies offers a new generation
cultural and ideological values.
eyeshadows and lip products. The
of powdered natural extracts based on
These consumers are hungry for
eyeshadows are packed with vitamins
vegetable juices. These extracts have
natural beauty and consider natural
C and E and coloured with Eclipta daisy
proven ‘care’ benefits and provide
ingredients to be healthier. As a result,
and moringa phyto-pigments. Cape
pleasing colours in colour cosmetics.
food textures and ingredients derived
lilac and aubergine phyto-pigments are
from plant and vegetable sources are some of the best ways to make the connection. Yet there can be no compromise on efficacy.
used to colour the lip products. Rituel de Fille’s Forbidden
Extracts for edible cosmetics Natpure XFine Powder Complexes from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Lipstick is both
are water soluble and oil dispersible
bold and
where they remain stable with
cosmetics brands on the
daring. This
temperature. They are produced by
market include Raw Cosmetic,
and the rest
entrapping the vegetable juices in
of the brand’s
a carrier to form a powder complex
colour cosmetics
of coloured actives suitable for use
Leading natural colour
which takes natural formulations a step further by including extracts of acai and goji berries and kale and Kakadu plum in its
are said to be handcrafted with natural
in colour cosmetics and skin and hair care products. The complexes
extensive range of makeup. Skin Food
ingredients and free from phthalates,
are also easy to transport and store,
Fresh Fruit Juice Extraction Tint and
synthetic dyes and fragrances.
thanks to their powdered form.
Blush features natural fruit extracts and
For South African colour cosmetics
gives vivid colour with no caking. Juice
brands inspired by these global natural
46
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
The range includes Natpure XFine Potato SP313, Natpure XFine Beetroot
COLOUR COSMETICS
BR312, Natpure XFine Radish RR318,
alcohol) acts as a pigment,
Natpure XFine Radish RR311, Natpure
bringing high colour
XFine Spirulina SL615 and Natpure XFine
strength to lipsticks, skin
Turmeric TU114. See Table 1 for the
cosmetics and compact
formulation guide for a range of natural
powders. Less than one
lip glosses featuring these extracts.
percent of Natpure XFine in a lip
The Natpure XFine extracts are
To prove the superior benefits of these new powdered extracts, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
balm provides a slight colour on mass
tested Natpure XFine Potato SP313
preservative free and ideal for
and upon application while 10 to
against a leading benchmark
natural formulations, particularly
20 percent of the powdered extract
ingredient, each formulated at
those products positioned as edible
in a lipstick gives intense colour
20 percent in a lipstick.
cosmetics. Due to the brightly coloured
and coverage.
nature of the vegetable juices, the
Skin applications of both lipsticks showed a higher colour strength for
extracts are great alternatives to
Multifunctional benefits
the one with Natpure XFine Potato
natural dyes, as they lend bright and
Natpure XFine Powder Complexes
SP313. In terms of homogeneity, the
homogeneous colour to
also have antioxidant and healing
lipstick formulated with the benchmark
the skin and hair.
properties, may prevent skin ageing
ingredient became heterogenous after
For example,
and UV-induced skin damage,
one and four applications while the
Natpure XFine
scavenge free radicals, improve
lipstick formulated with Natpure
Beetroot BR312
skin’s moisture content and
XFine Potato SP313 remained
used at
texture, and they are even
homogeneous after
0.1 percent in
known to have antibacterial,
two applications.•
water (pH4), acts as a dye to provide a naturally coloured product. One
anti-inflammatory and wound healing benefits. When used with polyphenols,
percent of the same powered extract
the powder complexes create an
in octyldodecanol (a common fatty
optimised carrier system.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
NATPURE® Xfine RED RADISH
Contact our team : nicola.barnardmarais@sensient.com www.sensient-cosmetics.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
47
ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS
Cheers to the summer holidays
T
he Society of Cosmetic
at The Steak & Grill Co. in Morningside,
beach attire, sun hats and flipflops
Chemists, Coschem hosted its
Durban, for an unforgettable dining
and to accessorise with pool noodles
Johannesburg and KwaZulu-Natal
experience. Steak & Grill Co. is the only
and mini inflatables such as lilos and
year-end luncheons on 14 and
steakhouse in South Africa housed in
tubes. The events offered guests an
22 November respectively. The Joburg
a national monument. Both year-end
opportunity to network with old and new
event took place at Casalinga Restaurant
functions were based on a summer
faces from the cosmetics and personal
in Muldersdrift, Gauteng while members
holiday theme and guests were
care industry, while enjoying a delicious
from the KwaZulu-Natal chapter met
encouraged to wear brightly coloured
meal together. •
HIGHLIGHTS FROM COSCHEM’S JHB YEAR-END FUNCTION
2020 DATES TO DIARISE 3 February – Coschem Cosmetic Science Course Prize Giving Dinner 6 February – Coschem AGM and Networking Cocktail Party 26 February – Sustainability Seminar 19 May – Coschem Annual Golf Day 9 to 10 September – Coschem Annual Scientific Conference, HPCI Expo and Gala Dinner
48
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
SNAPS FROM COSCHEM’S KZN YEAR-END FUNCTION
ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS
SAAFFI seminar to focus on sustainability
The 2020 event, the 18th SAAFFI seminar, will be held on Thursday, 19th March 2020 at the Altron (Bytes) Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng. The full-day program features an impressive line-up of speakers, a hands-on workshop, an inspiring motivational presentation and a networking cocktail event.
F
or the last 18 years, the the South
factors that synergise towards making
African Association of the Flavour
the future of the industry in Africa, a
& Fragrance Industry (SAAFFI)
particularly exciting one. Themed ‘taboo
seminar has attracted around
or not taboo – trends that are smoking
Dr Berangere Magarinos-Ruchat, global
200 key personnel drawn from a wide
h(p)ot, the 2019 seminar examined
head of sustainability of Firmenich,
range of companies in the flavours and
issues that were once taboo which have
Geneva has confirmed she will present
fragrances industry and from FMCG
become trendy and in demand. Of
at the seminar.
companies, as well as academics,
course, the Cannabis debate
consultants, regulators and raw material
featured strongly.
suppliers. The day offers a valuable
Breaking news is the confirmation that
Other confirmed presentation topics include flavour and fragrance trends, waste management – is it a load of
learning and networking opportunity
Expert speakers confirmed
garbage, saving 1 200 species of bees
and addresses relevant topics of interest
Themed ‘save the planet – wake up,
– the buzz of the industry, re-usable
to all industry players.
grow up and speak up’, the 2020
packaging – should we discard it?
Confronting tricky business issues
seminar will address issues of relevance
SAAFFI represents all aspects of this
has always been one of the guiding
to the flavour, fragrance and FMCG
fascinating industry. It unites the industry
principles of the organising committee.
industries around environmental and
across non-competitive issues, freeing
The 2018 seminar themed ‘motion of no
sustainability threats to the Earth’s
up individual organisations to grow
confidence – promoting a bright African
continued existence. It will also look at
their business. •
future for the flavour and fragrance
the industry’s role in alleviate
industry’, examined many of the positive
these threats.
For more information, and to book for the event, visit www.saaffi.co.za/events.
CELEBRATING A YEAR IN REVIEW On 28 November, Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review and SA Food Review joined SAAFFI for its year end function at Thunder Walker, located on Ghandi Square. Hosted by JoburgPlaces, this incredible venue is steeped in history and offers the most amazing African cuisine in one of Joburg’s oldest yet Michael Gristwood, SAAFFI’s executive director presenting a Maryke Foulds, Candida Giambostill operational buildings. special certificate to Kruger, Abby Vorster and Anita Raath In addition to celebrating another Rudy MacLean of New Media successful year for the association and members, the event honoured Symrise’s Rudy MacLean, who has led SAAFFI as the A bird’s eye view of Summer House chairman of its management committee for the past 14 years. We were treated to a meze migrant feast in the upstairs section of Summer House, which was built in 1904. For dessert, we headed downstairs to Zwipi Underground – an exceptional dining space within the historic United Safety Deposit bank vault. Thank you to SAAFFI for hosting such a memorable event. Summer House, where SAAFFI’s guests enjoyed Ghandi Square, home to the famous statue of Mahatma Gandhi
the delicious starter and main course
P C Review | JANUARY 2020 |
49
Tea time Crossword puzzle 1
2
3
4
5
6 7
8
9
10
Across
Down
1. Capital of Spain (6)
1. Monarchy on the French Riviera (6)
3. New York lake, sounds
2. Saltwater lake on the border
tranquil (6)
between Israel and Jordan (4,3)
7. Falls and honeymoon resort (7) 4. Italian isle (5) 11
12
15 18
13
14
16 19
17
20
8. Austrian province (5)
5. Texas city (6)
9. Washington’s largest city (7)
6. Island country south of Sicily (5)
10. Country, initially (3)
8. Famous fountain in Rome (5)
11. Augusta is the state capital (5)
12. Currency of Nigeria (5)
13. Florida resort (5)
14. Funchal is the capital of this
18. Australian capital, initially (3) 21
20. Reykjavik is the capital (7)
22
21. Europe’s longest river (5)
23
24
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50
| JANUARY 2020 | P C Review
Atlantic island (7) 15. Riga is the capital of this Baltic country (6)
22. Australian river (7)
16. Tenerife’s volcanic peak (5)
23. South American river (6)
17. Capital of the Czech Republic (6)
24. Capital of Zimbabwe (6)
19. City in north-eastern Oklahoma (5)
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COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
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