Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2021 by New Media B2B

review Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic

January 2021

Volume 48 | Number 1

years

www.pharmacos.co.za

A world tour of

colour trends

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Explore a new dimension in skin health

PHARMA FOCUS

Lab equipment to meet your scientific needs

PACKAGING PROFILES

A closer look at leading

suppliers and solutions

Exclusive Agents in South Africa

January 2021

Volume 48 | Number 1 www.pharmacos.co.za

Contents

34 Microbiome Beauty Seppic discusses rebalancing the microbiota Explore the skin microbiome with Solabia LactoSporin research marks an industry first Symrise’s microbiotic solution for sensitive skin Vytrus Biotech launches biological deodorant concept

A holistic approach to restoring skin’s microbiota

44 Compressed Air Technology Get the purest air quality with Rand-Air’s Class 0 Artic Driers discusses important safety considerations

47 Association News The latest news from Coschem

6 News

12 On the Street

Iberchem strengthens sustainability leadership

New products on our radar

Sabinsa registers five new US patents

14 Colour Cosmetics

EcoVadis Gold rating awarded to Vantage

9 Tech Talk The benefits of cloud computing for manufacturers

10 New Product Competition Read more to enter

26 Packaging Profiles

Polystyrene Association of SA releases recycling figures

Marchesini showcases latest tech innovations

SAAFFI webinar on updated IFRA Standards

Tournaire’s full range of aluminium packaging

Tour the world’s colour trends with Eckart

Designa launches packaging for hygiene products

Merck invites you to fall in love with pastels

Siyakha guarantees superior printing quality

Design mindful makeup for green consumers

31 Industry Talk

20 Pharma Focus: Lab Equipment & Services

Alpla’s Now to revolutionise home care packaging

Use LabX software to simplify data integrity

IDC awards major financing facility to Teqal

Blazar platform awarded for accelerating bioprocessing

On the cover An enchanting world tour of colour trends

Clean room logger guarantees high-level cleanliness What’s on at analytica lab Africa 2021 COVID-19 vaccines and the last mile

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

FROM THE EDITOR

Here’s to health,

happiness & kindness

appy New Year to all our readers and advertisers. Eleanor Roosevelt once said, “the future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams”. Although the ongoing devastation of the pandemic as well as the extended lockdown may make it difficult for many people to dream big, I believe that setting small goals, staying positive and choosing kindness above all else are sure to set us on a better path for 2021. I’m super excited about our first edition for the year, which includes some great new features and a fresh take on others that continue to be very popular with our readers. We’ve launched a feature on microbiome beauty in the January edition, which is filled with a series of technical and product-specific articles on how this concept is changing the game in skin care. Turn to page 34 to find out more about the ingredients and technologies that support a healthy skin ecosystem and what these innovations really mean for the personal care industry. Our cover feature this month is colour cosmetics. As January is often a time of renewal and resetting, there is always a strong focus on trends at the beginning of the year. On page 14, IMCD South Africa, in collaboration with Eckart, takes us on an enchanting world tour of the 2021 spring-summer colour trends. You can also check out Merck’s inspiring colour forecast and Lubrizol’s latest conscious makeup formulations that are designed for green consumers. Featured on page 20, our pharma focus is centred on equipment and services

CONTRIBUTORS: Gerhard Hartman, Karen Maier, Danilo Grieco, Anne-Sophie Dutailly, Ò Expósito, A Guirado, D Robustillo, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, S Ruiz, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, Dr Irene Montaño, Allen Cockfield

SALES EXECUTIVE: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za SALES EXECUTIVE: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za SALES EXECUTIVE: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

INTERNATIONAL SALES

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

CIRCULATION

CIRCULATION MANAGER: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

PUBLISHING TEAM

GENERAL MANAGER: Dev Naidoo PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman ART DIRECTOR: David Kyslinger

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

MANAGEMENT TEAM

CEO: Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER: Leoné Fouché CEO MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

LAYOUT & DESIGN: David Kyslinger

I hope you enjoy the read.

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

P C Review is the official journal of:

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

ADVERTISING

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Vivian Frittelli

EDITORIAL

that streamline processes, increase workflow efficiency and aid compliance in laboratories. With South Africa’s COVID-19 vaccine strategy on everyone’s lips, be sure to read about Labotec’s cold storage products and solutions that are designed to support the temperature requirements of pharmaceuticals and vaccine manufacturing as well as the distribution and storage of these products worldwide. The P & C Review packaging profiles are back this month – we publish them twice a year after launching the concept in January 2020 – and they’re better than ever. Designa Plastics has launched new packaging for hygiene products; the Marchesini Group has bolstered its remote after-sales support services; Tournaire showcases its full range of packaging in aluminium or co-extruded plastic; and Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. reminds us why the company is a go-to supplier of printing and packaging solutions. Turn to page 26 to read more. The team and I wish our readers and advertisers everything of the best for 2021. Please wear your mask, practice social distancing, be kind and stay safe.

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

The team

John Knowlton

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

Iberchem strengthens

sustainability leadership with new appointment

CureVac and Wacker sign vaccine candidate manufacturing contract A biopharmaceutical company developing a new class of transformative medicines, CureVac, and Wacker Chemie signed a contract in November for the manufacturing of CureVac’s COVID-19 vaccine candidate – CVnCoV. Under the terms of the initial agreement, Wacker will ramp up GMP production of the mRNA drug substance for CVnCoV at its biotech site in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, in the first half of 2021. Preparations for the start of production, technology transfers and test runs are already underway. It is planned to produce more than 100 million doses of the CureVac vaccine per year at the Amsterdam site. There is also further potential for expansion at the site in order to meet rising demand in the future. Wacker’s CEO, Rudolf Staudigl, comments: “We are proud and highly motivated to make a contribution to the fight against the spread of the coronavirus pandemic together with CureVac.” As a contract development and manufacturing organisation (CDMO), Wacker Biotech bundles Wacker

Group’s biopharmaceutical activities. For 20 years, its Amsterdam site has been producing vaccines for clinical development and commercial supply. The portfolio ranges from conventional live and killed vaccines to protein-based, polysaccharide and glycoconjugate vaccines. In recent months, Wacker has invested in the site to extend production to include mRNA-based vaccines. This new class of vaccines expands the broad vaccine portfolio Wacker Biotech offers to its customers. Dr Florian von der Mülbe, chief production officer of CureVac, adds: “With Wacker, we have found a committed and highly experienced partner for the production of our vaccine candidate in The Netherlands.” CureVac is building an integrated European vaccine manufacturing network with several CDMO partners. With this strategy, the company will significantly increase the manufacturing capacity already existing within CureVac for CVnCoV up to several hundred million doses per year and will manage potential supply chain risks by working with several partners for each of the key manufacturing process steps.

"It is planned to produce more than 100 million doses of the CureVac vaccine per year" 6

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The Iberchem Group, newly part of the Croda Group, is pleased to announce the reinforcement of its sustainability programme with the appointment of Guillaume Audy as director of corporate communications and sustainability. In his new role, Audy will oversee the company’s sustainable initiatives and operations with internal and external stakeholders. He will help the organisation further reduce its environmental footprint and increase its positive social impact by identifying opportunities along its value chain. “Iberchem has achieved so much in recent years in becoming a more sustainable business,” says Audy. “I am looking forward to consolidating the group’s efforts so far and to expanding their reach across the entire organisation. Achieving excellence in sustainability is not a one-man mission. Hopefully, the mindset is already in place and everyone at Iberchem is highly committed to contributing to the success of our programme.” Audy joined the Iberchem Group in 2015 and has more than 14 years’ experience in corporate communications and public affairs. He gained valuable experience in sustainable development when working with Montreal’s Public Transit Agency and as a consultant for Quebec’s Clean Tech industry. He has also conducted award-winning CSR campaigns for international consumer goods companies. Audy recently successfully completed a sustainability management programme at the University of Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership.

Guillaume Audy, Iberchem’s newly appointed director of corporate communications and sustainability

NEWS

Sabinsa expands IP portfolio with

five new US patents The Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) has recognised the Sami-Sabinsa Group with two awards for IP property Sami-Sabinsa founder and chairman, Dr Muhammed Majeed has also been honoured by the Indian Association for the Study of Traditional Asian Medicine (IASTAM). Additionally, the company has been granted five new US patents, including strengthening IP protection on its flag-ship probiotic, LactoSpore with new applications and additional patents for novel compositions. On 13 December, IASTAM honoured Dr Majeed with the Zandu International Oration award for excellence in the field

understanding and acceptance of the scientifically-validated benefits of Ayurveda, particularly in the nutraceutical market. During the sixth CII Industrial Intellectual Property Awards 2020 ceremony held virtually on 18 December, the group was given the Best Patent Portfolio award in SME (Life Science/Pharma) and the Best Trademark Portfolio in SME (Life Science/Pharma). “Patenting our discoveries is an important part of protecting the investments our customers make when they formulate with our ingredients,” Dr

of biology and research on Ayurvedic products. The award is a recognition of the important role Dr Majeed has played over three decades in globalising

Majeed comments. “Innovation drives the industry and more importantly provides additional ways to contribute to the health of humanity.”

The Zandu International Oration award presented to Dr Majeed by IASTAM

Drylock Technologies replaces plastic diaper packaging with EcoWicketBags Mondi helps to reduce plastic use and CO2 footprint with new paper-based diaper packaging for Drylock

and protect the product – while also using renewable resources and significantly reducing its

existing paper streams, even in countries with the strictest recycling regulations, thereby supporting the circular economy. An EcoWicketBag made out of fully compostable materials is also available. Mondi also ensured that EcoWicketBag fits with

CO2 footprint.

Drylock Technologies’ existing plant processes,

in paper packaging and its extensive knowledge

can be filled and sealed on existing machines.

“We approached Mondi because of its expertise

of the global hygiene market. Consumers are

meaning it is the first paper wicket bag range that “We work closely with our clients using our

looking for more sustainable packaging that is

customer-centric eco-solutions approach to

Mondi, a global leader in packaging and paper,

kinder to the planet without compromising on the

create packaging that is fit for purpose – using

has launched a new paper EcoWicketBag for

integrity of the product. With the EcoWicketBag,

paper where possible, plastic when useful. With

Drylock Technologies’ baby diaper ranges, bringing

consumers can be confident of product quality

Drylock Technologies it was key to reduce the

sustainable paper-based packaging to the hygiene

and packaging sustainability,” says Werner Van

amount of plastic used, meet our customer’s

market globally.

Ingelgem, R&D director at Drylock Technologies.

sustainability targets and protect the products for

The global hygiene products manufacturer

A key advantage of using paper-based

consumers. By liaising closely and asking the right

approached Mondi to create a more sustainable

solutions is the recyclability of paper and that

questions from the outset, we have been able to

alternative to its existing plastic diaper packaging,

consumers are more likely to know how to dispose

deliver on all of the above,” said Claudio Fedalto,

which would travel well, have strong shelf-appeal,

of it correctly. The EcoWicketBag can be placed in

chief operating officer paper bags, Mondi.

“Manufacturers of self adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, folding cartons, sachets & wrappers.” Email quotes@clomark.com

ISO 9001: 2015

Telephone 011-314 5444

LEVEL 1 B-BBEE

Website www.clomark.com

ISO 14001: 2015

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

NEWS

SA brand Sanitouch receives

EU seal of approval

Infection Protection Products’ for use in food areas) mark. Sanitouch brand has passed SABS mark certification the necessary European requires surveillance standard tests proving audits at the its efficacy against the manufacturing COVID-19 virus. facilities twice An internationally a year. Many UKAS accredited sanitisers claim testing laboratory compliance to these performed the testing marks but are in fact on Sanitouch’s products not certified SABS Sanitouch products have including the pre-saturated received confirmation of mark holders. their efficacy against the wipe range of trolley wipes, As a result of a COVID-19 virus hand and surface sanitiser countrywide shortage range, medical products and alcoholof alcohol during the early months of free products, all of which passed the the pandemic, Infection Protection Coronavirus EU 14476 tests. Products prioritised the limited The European standard applies available alcohol to produce preto products that are typically used saturated wipes for medical facilities in the medical environment and and retailers for use as trolley wipes. includes all hygienic hand rubs and As demand for sanitisers and hand sanitisers, hygienic hand wash, disinfectant wipes increased, and surface disinfection by wiping so too have a number of new or spraying. manufactures emerged, most This approval is positive news for of whom claim World Health South African consumers, particularly Organization formula compliance those who know and trust the or SABS approval. These claims Saniwipe trolley wipe. are often unsubstantiated and Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, very few have the required Sanispray and Medigiene were the accreditations. The majority do not only two certified hand sanitisers in have NRCS registration numbers South Africa which carried the SABS required by South African law 490 (the specific mark for alcoholfor detergent and detergent based sanitisers) and SABS 1853 disinfectants, nor do they comply (a sanitiser formulation approved with basic labelling requirements.

Rugged Sirius 100

pressure-sensitive labeller offers enhanced flexibility Accraply, a worldwide leader in the design and manufacture of label applicationsystems, has introduced the Sirius 100. This cost-effective pressure-sensitive labelling machine is ideal for fast-moving, highly flexible production lines. Designed to minimise downtime with toolless changeovers, the Sirius 100 brings the technology-driven linear labelling of Accraply’s high-speed systems into a single- and twin-head labelling solution. Combined with the field proven Accraply 2xx series label applicator, the Sirius 100 provides precise label placement accuracy for front, back and wrap applications in the personal care, household, food and pharmaceutical industries. Joining the Sirius MK6 advanced labelling system and Trine modular labelling station, the Sirius 100 is one of three labelling innovations engineered by Accraply in 2020. Jamie Clark, Accraply’s pressure-sensitive product line leader, introduced the Sirius 100 at the Pack Expo Connect virtual trade show in November. “The Sirius 100 is flexible and requires fewer change parts to run a variety of product shapes and sizes,” says Clark. “Per Accraply’s standards, it is built to be tough and deliver years of reliable performance.” Accraply’s next-generation smart HMI can be added to the Sirius 100, providing easy access to efficiency reporting, preventative maintenance alerts, self-diagnosing software, video tutorials and on-board consumable parts ordering. This interface also offers guidance for setup and scheduling maintenance tasks. Accraply is one of several Barry-Wehmiller companies represented in BW Packaging Systems, which brings together the collective packaging capabilities of Accraply, BW Flexible Systems, BW Integrated Systems, Pneumatic Scale Angelus and Synerlink.

Vantage earns EcoVadis Gold sustainability rating Vantage Specialty Chemicals has earned its first-ever EcoVadis Gold rating for its 2020 Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) performance. The Gold rating acknowledges the company’s commitment and continual sustainability achievements and elevates Vantage into the top 5% of evaluated chemical companies in its category. Vantage earned a Silver rating from EcoVadis in 2018 and 2019. EcoVadis CSR experts awarded the company a Gold rating in 2020 subsequent to assessing the progress Vantage has made with its policies, procedures and practices pertaining to

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

environmental practices, labour practices and human rights, fair business practices and sustainable procurement issues. “The Gold rating acknowledges that Vantage has an unwavering commitment to sustainability,” says Vantage’s chief technology officer, Allison Yake. “This recognises our efforts and contributes to our reputation as a responsible, committed company in the personal care, food, consumer and industrial markets. Customers care about CSR, and it’s important to us to deliver on what matters to them and to maintain what Vantage stands for.”

Nicholas Marinelli, global regulatory and sustainability director for Vantage, added that the Gold rating demonstrates the company’s growing commitment to CSR. “Vantage has been working on a sustainable development transformation and cultural shift over the past couple of years,” says Marinelli. “We have aligned our priorities with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, have been a Sedex member company since 2013 and apply the chemical industry’s Responsible Care guiding principles across all our business units.

TECH TALK

Boost efficiency and master challenges with cloud computing In the aftermath of the coronavirus outbreak, 2020 was certainly a challenging year for the manufacturing sector. Gerhard Hartman of Sage Africa & Middle East explores how manufacturers can accelerate their businesses using cloud technology.

he World Bank predicts the pandemic will push Sub-Saharan Africa into its first recession in 25 years with growth predicted to fall to below 3.3% with reduced demand taking its toll on the balance sheet and cash flow of most producers. Many side effects of the pandemic could linger for years – from a scramble to reconfigure global supply chains and new consumer preferences formed under lockdown, to gluts of some commodities and products and shortages of others. Even as these challenges come to the fore, many of the old issues are still very much in play – including growing global competition and the pressure to reduce carbon emissions. Yet Africa has the potential to grow into a manufacturing powerhouse. The nurturing of a larger and more integrated regional market via the African Continental Free Trade Agreement, the expansion of the middle class, a youthful population and rapidly improving infrastructure all bode well for the continent’s future. The thing is – African manufacturers will need to boost efficiency, productivity and quality if they are to master the challenges of the current market and harness emerging opportunities. Leaders are looking at the technology backbones they must put in place to drive operational excellence, optimise costs and accelerate innovation.

Internet of Things, big data and artificial intelligence (AI). According to the Industrial Development Corporation of South Africa (IDC), at least 40% of companies worldwide are stuck in an ERP technical debt with heavily customised systems. Over the decades, most manufacturers have added layers of complexity to their ERP systems resulting in a tangle of interfaces and poorly integrated, best-of-breed applications. These antiquated solutions lead to high cost of ownership and low levels of business alignment. They also impede enterprise agility and make it hard to harness the next generation of emerging technologies. For this reason, forward-thinking manufacturers are looking to migrate to a new generation of intelligent business management solutions.

NEW INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION

"A new industrial revolution is transforming in terms of how and where goods are made"

Manufacturers recognise that a new industrial revolution is transforming in terms of how and where goods are made, and the African industry needs to keep up. Manufacturers also know their legacy technology environments are not yet ready to integrate emerging technologies like advanced robotics, the

NEXT-GENERATION SYSTEMS Business management solutions enable manufacturers to meet the challenges of today’s business world, providing insight into costs and operational performance, as well as information for smarter and faster business decisions. This, in turn, allows them to enhance efficiency, diminish costs and increase sales and profitability. Such modern, integrated business systems offer seamless communication across supply chains and access to realtime data. Next-generation business management systems enable companies to optimise manufacturing processes end-to-end, including production planning, project management, process scheduling, compliance and mobile supply chain management, while reducing costs.

END-TO-END OPTIMISATION

For most manufacturers, cloud technology offers a way to accelerate into the digital world. Cloud solutions can be rolled out relatively quickly, configured rather than customised, and adopted in a modular, incremental way – which allows a company to bank quick wins on the way. Companies not ready to migrate all infrastructure to the cloud can adopt a hybrid cloud model and take the journey at their own pace. Next-generation business management solutions simplify operations to allow businesses to grow faster and stay agile. They’re easy to adapt to fit unique processes, roles and preferences. With minimal IT investment and resources, companies can enjoy rich, integrated functionality to support all core business processes. • Sage – www.sage.com/za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

r o P d u w ct e N Competition

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria:

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.

• Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

On the Street New products on our radar

1. Smart laundry between the sheets Personal Touch is bringing

innovation to the laundry market with its auto washing powder sheets. With innovative research and development at the heart of this South

African first, Personal Touch is not paving the way in washing powders but starting on an entirely new road. “Personal Touch’s new auto washing powder sheets not only tip the innovation scales in their favour, but also deliver on their promise of ‘Smart Sheets, Easy Laundry’,” says Sarah Webb, brand manager for Personal Touch. These new sheets are easy to use, friendlier to the environment, lighter to carry and compact to store. Most importantly, they result in ultra-clean laundry, with no residue. Personal Touch auto washing powder sheets take the stress out of laundry, by doing it the smart way. It’s as simple as using half a sheet, which is perforated and easy to tear, for half a load and one full sheet for a full load. Simply place the sheet into the drum, add your clothes and begin the washing cycle. To save on storage space, Personal Touch thought inside the box. These innovative sheets are packaged in a compact, easy to carry, easy to store and easy to use box. The equivalent of a 2kg bag of washing powder is now available in a box weighing only 90g, with each box containing 18 sheets, allowing for more washes than a 2kg bag of washing powder. When it comes to Personal Touch auto washing powder sheets, consumers can rest assured they are being friendlier to the environment, as the packaging uses 64% less plastic compared to a 2kg bag of washing powder. Swapping from powder to sheets is a good green decision. Equally effective in both hot and cold water, Personal Touch washing sheets

promise ultra clean results while being tough on stains, creating a new laundry experience from beginning to end. “The future of the laundry industry has arrived. At Personal Touch we are proud to be driving this innovation, which we have no doubt will soon be the new normal laundry care,” says Webb.

2. City comfort for beautiful skin

Born from extensive scientific research and the constant pursuit of developing

best-in-class skincare, Environ introduces two new anti-pollution innovations formulated with highly-intelligent ingredient combinations that offer complete protection against the harmful effects of pollution. Life has changed; but the world hasn’t stopped. Living the new normal is pressurised. We are time deprived, constantly connected to digital devices and exposed to high levels of stress. The harmful effects of numerous indoor and outdoor pollutants are on the rise and are scientifically shown to cause significant damage to the skin. Focus Care Comfort+ anti-pollution spritz is a lightweight, invisible, breathable shield that offers complete protection with a scientifically-perfected blend of antipollution ingredients and high-potency antioxidants to help counteract the harmful effects of pollution. Focus Care Comfort+ anti-pollution masque is Environ’s new multi-functional mask formulated with Japanese charcoal and special botanicals to help absorb impurities while hydrating skin and normalising its appearance, leaving skin feeling revitalised and smooth.

3. Harnessing ancient medicines for modern times

The team at Occuful has harnessed the properties of carbohydrate-derived fulvic acid (CHD-FA) in a range of wellness products to help keep the entire family safe, especially during the COVID-19 pandemic. The range includes an immune boosting health tonic, highly-effective throat spray and skin-friendly healing gel. Some of the health and wellness benefits scientifically attributed to Occuful CHD-FA include gut health, a strengthened immune system and improved nutritional uptake. CHDFA is also one of the most effective antioxidants eliminating free radicals, while limiting their damage to cell membranes, proteins and DNA.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

What’s on in 2021

DIARY

February

Air Cargo Africa 2021 9 to 11 February Johannesburg, South Africa www.aircargoafrica.aero

2021 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

Coschem AGM

Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to:

11 February Johannesburg, South Africa www.coschem.co.za

NEW MEDIA, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Email: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

Biofach / Vivaness 2021

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR

17 to 19 February Nuremberg, Germany www.vivaness.de/en

March

Food Review Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R905

R588 R1066

R905 R1620

Full Name:........................................................................................... Designation: ........................................................................................ Company: ...........................................................................................

Beauty Asia

Postal Address:...................................................................................

1 to 3 March Singapore, Asia www.beautyasia.com.sg

.................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (

)....................................... Fax: (

) ..................................

E-mail:.................................................................................................

SAAFFI Conference

Main activity of company:...................................................................

18 March Johannesburg, South Africa www.saaffi.co.za

Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists. Signature:............................................................................................

SAPHEX

25 to 25 March Johannesburg, South Africa www.saphex.co.za

Please select your preferred method of payment:

❑

PCHi China

Direct Deposit (Complete and email this form to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd Payee:

Bank:

24 to 26 March Shanghai, China www.pchi-china.com

Acc No:

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

April

❑

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: ............................................................................. Expiry Date: ................................................................................ Card Number: .............................................................................

Cleanroom Exhibition Istanbul

CVC Number............................................................................... Date: ...........................................................................................

7 to 9 April Istanbul, Turkey www.bioexpo.com.tr/cleanroom

Signature:....................................................................................

❑

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.

Natural & Organic Products Europe 18 to 19 April London, UK www.naturalproducts.co.uk

2 YEAR

R588

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

COLOUR COSMETICS

An enchanting world tour of

colour trends The spring-summer 2021 trends are set to be marked by a true colour explosion. In fashion, designers will go for dramatic floral shades. To show what fitting makeup products could look like, Eckart toured three destinations with interesting stories. What could be more desirable in 2021 than freedom to travel to a colourful destination?

fter a difficult 2020 in too many

senses, everyone is looking forward to a better 2021, full of positive vibes and energy. For the cosmetics industry, chances are good that after a year of lipstick abstention, consumers will rush to renew the contents of their makeup bags. The spring-summer trends by Eckart, represented locally by IMCD South Africa, offer a preview of what to expect in colour cosmetics in 2021, piquing our curiosity about what is coming.

THE EPHEMERAL MAGIC OF EARLY SPRING Pink, in all its shades, cannot be overlooked during the 2021 spring and summer season. Eckart has chosen Sakura, the Japanese cherry blossom, to inspire its first colour trend for 2021. In March, this wondrous tree turns Japan into a sea of pink and white and resembles the beginning of the Japanese spring. During this time, friends and family get together to picnic in parks and admire the beauty of blooming nature. The cherry blossom is considered a symbol of beauty and ephemerality in Japanese culture. Accordingly, this colour trend is reminiscent of the transient beauty of early spring and covers all shades of pink â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from a very light mauve to a lively pink.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

To achieve these delicate colours and romantic effects, Eckart played with combinations of Syncrystal and Mirage effect pigments. The result is a subtle pearlescent shimmer on skin, lips and nails, with an occasional sparkle.

SAKURA IDEAS AND APPLICATIONS The innovative strawberry mochi lip tint in a bold pink colour uses Synafil and Ecofil fillers to deliver opaque matte tinting effects. On the other side, the picnic in the park lip gloss and topper, with a very subtle powdery pink colour, profits from the sparkle of Mirage pigments to stun with its transparent shine. These two lip products can be applied individually or in combination to obtain unrivalled colourful sparkle and gloss. Hanami and cherry blossom are the two eye shadow gels of this concept. They differ in pink tone and lightness and are designed to be combined to achieve an individually suited Applications for trend colour Sakura featuring strawberry mochi lip tint, picnic in the park lip gloss and topper, cherry blossom and hanami eye shadow gels, beautiful spring day body mist, pink blooms coloured cheek powder and nail polishes Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka, and Yoshino

rosy shade. The long-lasting, water-based formulation also fits in perfectly with the trend for low-solvent formulations. Another goody of this concept is the coloured cheek powder, pink blooms. Easy to formulate with and offering a great effect, a combination of three different Syncrystal pigments provides the skin with a natural healthy glow. While the Ecofil B110 in the mix controls shine on the skin, Synafil S1050 creates a velvet-like skin feel and improves skin adhesion. For the nails this concept foresees four shades: rose, pink, nude and violet. The results are intriguing. The last highlight of this trend concept is the beautiful spring day body mist. This very light, sprayable formulation gives the skin a transparent rosy coloured sparkle. The colour trend Sakura is a homage to the influence of Japanese culture in beauty, yet it is indicated for all skin tones. The different pink shades with different intensities will provide a healthy or romantic touch for day makeup.

Did you know?

COLOUR COSMETICS

You can find information about these trend colours online at www.eckart.net/za/en/blog-story/trend-colors-cosmetics.

JOYFUL CELEBRATIONS OF A NEW SEASON La Primavera – the next colour trend for springsummer 2021 – is also based on floral colours. This very colourful trend stands for exuberant blooming nature and is highly reminiscent of spring in Spain, or La Primavera, which is a festive season for Spanish traditions packed in bold and brilliant colours. While Sakura is about delicate effects, La Primavera stands for temperament, radiant colours and high coverage. It celebrates the joyful mood in late spring with intense gold, sensual red, stunning purple and juicy orange. Using Syncrystal pigments, in particular Supernova red, orange and gold, the trend achieves a new dimension of colour and shine. Where more drama is needed, Mirage pigments are used to add sparkle. Needless to say, these colours look best on dark skin. Talking about Spanish traditions in spring, one of the most impressive traditions is Las Fallas in Valencia. During this feast of fire colourful, satiric figures are first admired and then burnt to ashes, while people celebrate in the street. After a year of not wearing makeup, the energetic festival and a new beginning are certain to find their way into makeup looks. The creamy eye shadow triple Las Fallas is a tribute to the dominant colours of the Valencian festival. The gold-yellow shade is reminiscent of the citrus fruits grown around Valencia and of the ornaments of traditional dresses. The natural green and the crocus violet are colours of lush nature. These three impacting shades are packed into a creamy formulation to accentuate a silky effect and make them more wearable.

These colour effects wouldn’t be possible without Supernova effect pigments. To illuminate the complexion, the waterbased liquid highlighter el rocio – Spanish for morning dew – creates a magic skin glow. To finish this look, nails are painted in one or more catchy colours named after Spanish cities well known for their joy of life: Barcelona (emerald), Seville (violet), Valencia (gold) and Granada (fuchsia). To balance the shine of the makeup, the nail polishes of this concept combine metallic effects with a chalky finish, obtained with Ecofil B110, a natural filler well known for this purpose.

THE CHARMING ALLURE OF MUSIC Inspired by Caribbean flair in Havana, pastel-coloured Cadillac’s and intoxicating salsa sounds on the streets, the colour trend Havana Sounds represents the Cuban feeling of hot, lazy summer afternoons in anticipation of a party. Havana Sounds builds on the impressions of the home of salsa and many other Latin music styles with brown tobacco tones mixed with blue and coral shades of colonial facades and sparkling effects alternated with matte and silky surfaces.

Applications for trend colour La Primavera featuring red carnation lip smoothie, Nit de la Cremà lip gloss, Las Fallas creamy eye shadow triple, El Rocio liquid highlighter and nail polishes Valencia, Granada, Barcelona, Seville

To stage this colour trend, clean effect pigments with brilliant interference are a must. The Syncrystal pigment range from Eckart with its remarkable pearlescence is optimal.

HAVANA SOUNDS PRODUCT IDEAS The pink and bronze coloured lipsticks salsa club and Cuban cigar captivate with excellent applicability plus superb staying power thanks to Tixogel and Garamite rheology additives. For the eyes, this trend begins with Cuba libre, a shimmery eye all-rounder three-in-one with a warm bronze tone. This long-lasting, high-coverage, water-based formulation can serve as eyeliner, eye shadow or eye shadow base depending on how it is applied. The pressed eye shadow duo blue Chevrolet and coral Cadillac enthrals with its extremely clean coral and sky-blue colours. When used pure, these two shades look light and silky. When applied on the Cuba libre eye shadow base, they turn to warmer shades with high coverage and a metallic touch. These multipurpose applications capture the spirit of the time, as the demand for convenient, flexible products with top performance is growing among digital consumers. •

LA PRIMAVERA SAMPLES AND FORMULATIONS For an authentic Spanish look, the lip smoothie red carnation with its amazing reddish pink shade and creamy consistency, accentuates the lips, while the lip gloss nit de la cremà gives a fascinating shine with an orange touch.

Applications for colour trend Havana Sounds featuring salsa club luminous lipstick, Cuban cigar smooth touch lipstick, coral Cadillac and blue Chevrolet pressed eye shadow duo, Cuba Libre three-in-one eye all-rounder and Bayamo, Havana, Varadero and Guantánamo nail polishes

Eckart – www.eckart.net IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

COLOUR COSMETICS

Shimmer, sparkle and fall in love with pastels Colour forecasts are created long before their season. Experts travel the world and study movements that inform our lifestyle choices before predicting what will be hip and happening in upcoming seasons. While nothing could prepare anyone for the events of 2020, when you look at the colour trends predicted for 2021 they still hold true, and will inspire us in a time when we need a little more colour in our lives. By Karen Maier

he legacy of 2020 will remain with us for a long time but the upbeat colours and caring trends being forecast for this year give the cosmetic industry a unique opportunity to make the world a prettier place. The common thread in 2021 is pastel colours – shiny radiant pastels with a fresh clean aesthetic which will lift flagging spirits. Let’s explore the Autumn and Winter seasons first. The theme for these seasons is legacy, where in these demanding times a wealth of heritage is viewed through the lens of

modernity. These seasons are inspired by a caring creativity where the past and the present flirt, converse and hybridise. We are stimulated by a renewed vision of tradition, recalling what life was like before while the cosmetic world is re-rooted in daily life through a quest for authenticity, sensuality and a taste for the precious. This reminds us that nothing can be constructed without strong founding roots, this winter will be one when we master the future. With sensuality, grace and energy. The winter colours take inspiration not only from the winter landscapes of the Far North’s

WHAT CONSUMERS WANT Understanding the colours that make up a season is not enough; formulators also need to realise consumers’ expectations. This list covers most of the current demands: • Multi-functionality is definitely a prime requirement, whether it be a product which can applied in different ways, such a chubby stick used as a lipstick, blush and eye shadow or a makeup item that does more than beautify, containing effective actives to soothe, moisturise or protect for example – because consumers want more. • Radiance is a persistent trend, and the Ronastar Allure range of luminous matte pigments can be blended to match any skin tone and impart the healthy glow. The newly launched Yellow Allure will assist in creating elegant colour tones all the while imparting a soft velvet feeling to the skin.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

COLOUR COSMETICS

fjords and lakes, the tundra’s colourful warmer landscape and the woolly coats of the animals living there, but also from urban landscapes, with urban dust floating in the city air like a delicate veil. These themes translate into colours such as polar blue a soft cold pastel blue and luminescent blizzard, soft misty grey, solar light and beaten earth, which are warmer and suitable for a glowing complexion or softly flushed cheeks. The smoky, urban colours are cold and dominated by tones of grey, such as bold concrete, quartz grey and dusty beige – these descriptive names give us insight into what the colours look like. Of course, there has to be some warm, intense shades to counterbalance all the cold colours, keeping us snug in winter. Opulent

burgundy, dramatic gold, deep purple and bold black are the colours to turn to, to round off the quintessential winter look.

AQUATIC DREAMS AND PEARLY EFFECTS Spring and summer bring a new lease on life where we rethink things and make a fresh start. Tired of waiting for the world to change, we change our position. It is time to stop taking a narrow, short-sighted approach to everyday life; this is the moment to envisage things with a fresh, uncynical eye. Inspired by a young, creative, ultra-optimistic guard, we want to take a more respectful view of ourselves, others, cultures and the environment. Emerging from the winter landscape of the fjords, we see aquatic dreams bathed in iridescent pearly effects, celebrating the translucent magic of water. The power of marine life inspires a look based upon a natural healthy glow. We turn to science and nature for inspiration, in colour and effect as well as textures, soft and silky or jellylike formulations that mimic light bubbles on water. The makeup palette is strongly influenced by precious pearlescent aspects of coral and shellfish, resulting in colours ranging

Did you know? Merck’s Ronastar Lights range offers endless formulation possibilities when it comes to achieving the soft pearlescent pastel shades that illuminate, glisten and shimmer, required to be on trend in 2021. These high-tech pigments can be used on their own or in blends with other pigments to achieve crystal clear sparkle, highly-stable formulations and breathtaking effects.

from blue to green, soft pink and silver to adorn the eyes for an almost futuristic look. Colours come in delightful shades such a jellyfish blue, algae green, light foam, pink salt and starfish rose – so evocative of a lovely summer’s day spent on the beach. In keeping with the light summery touch, the palette also features shades of nude and floral and fruity tones of raspberry and elegant purples. And what would summer be without a little bit of drama – bold exotic colours to enliven a sultry evening, such as vibrant petal, flamboyant grape or even butterfly wings – these intense shades of orange, red, burgundy and purple bring exactly the right amount of intensity to the look. • Merck – www.merckgroup.com/en

Features at a Glance: Crystal Clear Sparkle Engineered high-tech pigment structure Inorganic composition provides highest stability Smooth Skin feeling

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

COLOUR COSMETICS

Conscious makeup designed for green consumers

As we continue to experience uncertain times, consumers will continue to incorporate makeup into their daily self-care routine to feel normal and as good as possible. Although people’s behaviours, needs and spending have changed, the beauty industry has a unique ability to ensure its survival.

istorically makeup has shown it can be a powerful mood booster. Even during an economic crisis, lipsticks remained ‘recession-resistant’, earning the name of ‘the lipstick effect’. Consumers desire to keep healthy and look good will gain intensity, dictating a new

inflammation. Digital behaviour will stick beyond the outbreak of the coronavirus, driving greater demand for blue light protection in makeup and skincare products.

direction for makeup. This means makeup must go beyond aesthetics, integrating skin care and immediate benefits to meet the needs of consumers now looking for more from their makeup than just flawless coverage. New products need to be designed for the huge digital shift consumers are experiencing along with their increased concerns about the environmental impact of their actions. As video conferencing becomes the norm and the amount of time spent online rises, beauty needs will also reflect these new on-screen lifestyles. Foundations, undereye concealers, and eyeshadows need to make consumers look good on video while protecting skin against blue light, which can cause premature skin ageing and

about protecting the planet which goes hand in hand with concerns about the environmental impact of beauty products. These consumers are willing to take personal actions towards a sustainable future, demanding transparent, natural, ethically sourced and sustainable beauty products. Younger generations, such as Gen Z and Millennials, are the leaders of this evolution mindset; they are the conscious consumers. For them, it’s no longer enough to look and feel fabulous—makeup has to be created using the most natural, sustainablysourced ingredients available. Nature-based formulations uphold safety and meet the value-driven motivation of conscious beauty principles.

COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABILITY Additionally, consumers are more passionate

Did you know? The new conscious beauty collection will resonate with consumers who are influenced by the digital aesthetic and insist on protecting the environment. Click here for more information: https://bit.ly/2VwJdrK.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

This is why Lubrizol Life Science Beauty (LLS Beauty) has introduced conscious makeup, the next era in nature-based colour cosmetics, which includes a new collection of formulations with 95% natural origin content. The formulations and technical support are available locally from Carst & Walker.

NATURE-BASED FORMULATIONS The line includes an everlasting flawless facial foundation with a lightweight formula that stays put all day and is ideal for dry, combination and oily skin types. It reduces shininess, protects against light radiation and light-caused damage to be screen-ready anytime. Ingredients include Matrifuse S-1 dispersant, providing excellent pigment dispersion for better coverage as well as Matmarine biotech ingredient, which reduces skin shininess and the appearance of pores while Lumicease blue ingredient protects against light radiation. The water-resistant mascara is a long-lasting formula that glides on softly, making lashes appear longer throughout the day and is easy to wash off at night. Key ingredients in the mascara formulation include Kelco-Care diutan gum for viscosity and smooth texture, Avalure UR 450 polymer for water resistance and Actiphyte rosemary and gotu kola to enhance the appearance of lash length. The collection also includes a satin finish lipstick with a smooth, moisturising formula that applies evenly, leaving lips feeling rejuvenated, fuller and ultra-soft. This formulation is designed using Schercemol 1818 ester for its satin cashmere soft finish as well as Actiphyte avocado and coconut to protect skin cells from UVB-induced damage and Actiphyte yam for a long-term plumping effect. • Carst & Walker – carst.co.za Lubrizol Life Science Beauty – www.lubrizol.com

Nature-based formulations that perform ďŹ&#x201A;awlessly without compromising the environment.

PHARMA FOCUS // LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

LabX software for data integrity in pharma labs

Data integrity is a critical component of pharmaceutical product quality and the information submitted to regulatory agencies. However, in recent years an increasing number of inspections have revealed incomplete data, a lack of audit trails and falsification of results.

Did you know? Mettler Toledo’s LabX is not just a connection to an instrument, it is a complete laboratory solution. With LabX there is no need for PCs in the laboratory as the system works remotely via the network. It automates all administrative work, making paperless lab a reality.

n July 2014, the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a stern warning that data integrity was a key focus of its enforcement efforts. The UK Medicines and Healthcare Products Agency (MHRA) went further and issued GMP data integrity definitions and guidance for industry in January 2015. As regulators continue to tighten their inspection approaches, it is critical for managers and scientists in regulated GXP (good practice) laboratories to understand key issues surrounding data integrity and to be able to demonstrate compliance.

MULTIPLE INSTRUMENTS, ONE SOFTWARE Mettler Toledo’s powerful LabX laboratory software connects to a variety of laboratory instruments and meets all data integrity criteria and requirements regarding 21 CFR 11, EU Annex 11 and ISO 17025. LabX software, available locally from Microsep, comprises several modules designed to accompany Mettler Toledo instrumentation, such as precision and analytical balances, density meters, refractometers, autotitrators, Karl Fisher

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

titrators, melting point instruments, Quantos dosing systems, pH meters and ultravioletvisible spectroscopy systems.

STREAMLINE PROCESSES With LabX, you have complete instrument control, electronic data management (network, processing and reporting capabilities), and seamless integration of laboratory systems into LIMS to cover complete workflows. Via a single software interface, you can centrally manage instruments, resources, SOPs, tasks and users. This results in the smooth operation of laboratory systems and significantly reduces the effort for validation, maintenance and support.

INCREASE WORKFLOW EFFICIENCY LabX automates multiple-parameter workflows to increase throughput and reduce cost per sample. Automatic data transfer ensures all sample information entered travels along with the sample, from one instrument to another, eliminating any calculation and transcription errors. Ensure traceability and data integrity throughout the workflow. Controls can be put into

Above: LabX software fully networks your main laboratory instruments to ensure seamless operations and efficient workflows Right: LabX software interface allows one to centrally manage instruments, resources, SOPs, tasks and users

place so that SOPs are followed according to the ALCOA+ framework – attributable, legible, contemporaneous/complete, original and accurate.

EASY COMPLIANCE Access your data quickly and easily during an audit. With the powerful search capability, relevant data can be easily retrieved from the secure database. Data of results, measurements, tests, audit trail entries and metadata are saved, and the necessary documentation of a fully controlled and accurate process is readily available. Data integrity throughout the whole SOP process is thus simplified and achieved with LabX. •

Microsep – www.microsep.co.za

DATA INTEGRITY SIMPLIFIED LabX® multi-instrument control and data acquisition system www.microsep.co.za

Johannesburg: Tel: (011) 553-2300 • Cape Town: Tel: (021) 914-0393 Durban: Tel: (031) 701-4705/6 • Port Elizabeth: Tel: (041) 365-5168 e-mail: info@microsep.co.za www.microsep.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS // LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

Merck awarded for accelerating bioprocessing 4.0

When used in a lab, the award-wining Blazar Platform from Merck’s BioReliance portfolio can reduce testing times by 80%

The Blazar Platform from the science and technology company’s BioReliance portfolio has been awarded R&D 100 and CPhI awards for reducing testing times by 80%. In addition, the Bio4C ProcessPad was shortlisted for a CPhI Award for automating data acquisition and analysis.

erck recently announced that its first-to-market Blazar platform from the BioReliance portfolio is an award-winning innovation. The company’s Bio4C ProcessPad, part of the company’s expanding BioContinuum Platform, also made the shortlist for the 2020 CPhI Awards. These awards honour the latest and best innovations, identifying the top products of the past year. “Merck is providing advanced products and services that help bring important drug therapies to market, faster,” says Andrew Bulpin, head of process solutions, life science, at Merck. “Our advancements set the standard for how drug production is done today and shape the possibilities of tomorrow.” Merck has been a key driver of the industry’s evolution to BioProcessing 4.0, which uses advanced digital and process technologies to offer a step change in productivity.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

A FUNDAMENTAL SHIFT IN BIOSAFETY TESTING The company’s Blazar platform earned the 2020 CPhI Pharma Award in the Analysis, Testing and Quality Control category. The first-to-market platform was also named a winner in the 2020 R&D 100 Awards’ Analytical/Test category. This technology represents a fundamental shift in biosafety testing within the industry toward rapid molecular methods, reducing testing time by up to 80%, or to as little as seven days. The platform can detect a broad range of viruses and is well-suited to cell line characterisation and bulk-harvest lot release testing.

A BETTER FUTURE FOR ALL Merck’s Bio4C ProcessPad made the shortlist for the 2020 CPhI Pharma Awards’ Digital Innovation category. Part of the ‘Collect’ dimension of the Bio4C

Suite, the Bio4C ProcessPad is a browserbased platform that allows users to acquire, aggregate and analyse data from disparate sources such as equipment, batch records, databases and historians across the bioprocess. It also automates data acquisition and analysis tasks, freeing scientists and engineers to minimise the time to decision and action. With more than 65 years of experience in downstream processing, Merck offers an expansive range of technologies and services to help tackle downstream processing challenges from development to full-scale production. The company is committed to helping its customers deliver lifesaving therapies to more patients, faster, by increasing efficiencies and reducing costs. • Merck – www.merckmillipore.com

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has been Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories operating for 40 years, and is a key player in the is a registered company specializing complementary medicine manufacturing arena in in manufacturing and packing of South Africa.

complementary medicines for third party

Hersol manufactures widelocal rangeSouth of products in companies withina the African various dosage forms: including tablets – single and market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film to a Quality Management System which coating), effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, embraces current Good Manufacturing topical preparations such as; creams, gels, ointments Practices in accordance Medicines and lotions, syrups and liquids. with Hersol prides itself onControl quality assured products, which have Council requirements. undergone various compliance checkpoints. Hersol has a highly qualified team who are constantly growing through Hersol’s extensive facility features a fully training and education.

equipped Laboratory to ensure quality

Automatic Encapsulation Machine

The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities

In of addition to the manufacturing of complementary raw materials and finished products. pharmaceutical products, Hersol alsofacilities offers Contract It has modern manufacturing Packing. Hersol has a packing department consisting for blending, granulating, compressing & of 13 packing lines employing over 100 people. coating tablets as well as encapsulating Hersol’s packing services extend to the following: Hersol has state of the • capabilities. Containers • art Bottles on-site packing facilities, including • Unit Cartons a recently introduced blister packing • Shrink Wrapping • machine. Blistering In addition, Hersol has facilities manufacture • to Combo Packing and pack syrups, creams,

gels and ointments.

Pack sizes include 30s, 60s,120s,180s and even 200s.

Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly

HPLC Testing

Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines

Hersol is proud to note that it has a fully accredited competent Team with Laboratory, splitManagement between Wet chemistry, an vast instrument room withsubject HPLC’s, matter AA, GC and pharmaceutical knowledge Dissolution and DT baths, as well as a comprehensive and experience in staff motivation so as to Microbiological laboratory. All equipment is calibrated achieve a superior product. and checked on a regular basis as per the regulations, and the staff undergo rigorous regular updates and Hersol registered with: accurate and training for is competency, to ensure consistent results are obtained. t South African Medicines Control Council

t South African Pharmaceutical Council

40 years of excellence

Hersol is registered with: t South African Department of Health • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority Health Product Association – HPA •t South African Pharmaceutical Council •t South African Department Health Cosmetics, Toiletriesofand Fragrances • Health Product Association – HPA Association • Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility • FDA Food Facility

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2

fax: +27 11 614 4615

email: enquiries@hersol.co.za admin@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS // LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

Keeping the cleanroom more than clean Industrial, manufacturing and scientific cleanrooms, by the very nature of their activities, are required to maintain extremely high levels of ‘cleanliness’. It is imperative to monitor differential pressure, temperature and humidity to ensure compliance with local and international cleanroom regulated standards.

he Delta OHM HD50CR multifunctional clean room logger/ transmitter device offers the user highly-accurate cleanroom monitoring measurements from a device designed and manufactured to the best in Italian engineering quality. The HD50CR assures that the correct values for accurate monitoring are documented for quality purposes. Any measurement recorded out of the requested range will trigger an alarm for immediate and corrective actions to be taken via a predetermined list of email addresses, which can be configured upon installation. “The main advantage of the Delta OHM HD50CR device is its webserver flexibility,” says Jan Grobler, managing director of GHM Messtechnik South Africa. “Configuring the instrument is simple, if both connected to the network, this can be done through any device that has been granted access to the instruments webserver, be it a smartphone, PC or laptop.”

USER FRIENDLY AND SAFETY CENTRIC The system is password protected to eliminate misuse and mistakes; the configuration can also take place offline by connecting the instrument to a PC where the free-to-download software can be installed. The instrument is pre-set to get a dynamic IP address from the network DHCP server. A static IP address can be set by using the webserver feature of the instrument or the HD35AP-S application software. The IP address is displayed at the end of the list of quantities that can be scrolled by using the ‘up arrow’ key.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The HD50CR is well suited to cleanroom establishments across all industries, but in particular laboratories, pharmaceutical and food manufacturing cleanrooms, as well as chemical and petrochemical

With its red, electroluminescent four keys, the HD50CR offers a differential pressure reading range of +/- 125P (0.01 Pa Resolution) with an accuracy of +/- 0.35% typ. of measuring span. With zero drift selfcalibration and a temperature drift of +/- 0.5% typ. of measuring span the device’s units of measurement are Pa, mmH20, mbar, inH20, mmHg and hPa. The instrument is suited for air and natural gas monitoring and measurement. At regular intervals, it will automatically calibrate the zero of the differential pressure, temporarily disconnecting the pressure inputs through an internal solenoid valve. The USB characteristics of the Delta OHM HD50CR are HID type with front mini-USB type B connector, with the RS485 being modbus-RTU slave and the ethernet via a RJ45 connector with wi-fi optional. A variety

"The HD50CR is a perfect and reliable choice to ensure cleanrooms are fully and accurately monitored to maintain their standards" of measuring/logging intervals are also available, and there is an also an optional T/ RH Probe.

A RELIABLE CHOICE “The HD50CR provides a perfect solution for the tracking of any out-of-range values and provides evidence for any quality audit that may be conducted,” comments Grobler. “Delta OHM has developed the HD50CR specifically for cleanroom applications. Optional modules can be provided to meet higher regulations that may be applicable to the pharmaceutical industry. The HD50CR is a perfect and reliable choice to ensure cleanrooms are fully and accurately monitored to maintain their standards.” • GHM Messtechnik South Africa – www.ghm-group.de/en

PHARMA FOCUS // LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

Safety, quality and digital transformation on show

Laboratory accuracy and quality assurance as well as digital transformation will be among the top discussion points featured in the forum area at this year’s analytica Lab Africa. Presented by Messe München South Africa, analytica lab Africa is the only trade fair in South Africa for laboratory technology, analysis, biotechnology and diagnostics. In 2021, analytica Lab Africa’s forum will follow some of the key trends identified at the highly successful international analytica virtual 2020 event, where the number one topic was digital transformation and the lab of the future. Dain Richardson, senior exhibition manager, says Messe München’s international trade fair, analytica and its regional series are key forums for product discovery and knowledge sharing for the sector. “Analytica 2020 was a fully virtual event for the first time in its history, and there were over 21 000 participations who attended the 200 exhibitor webinars and 119 scientific conference presentations, where digitisation and automation were key topics. Analytica Lab Africa will follow these trends in its forum programme, with content formatted to suit the African environment and market,” she says.

FORUM PROGRAMME IN FOCUS

The forum programme will include talks on the effect of automation on quality and precision, quality control in manufacturing sanitisation validation and spectroscopy and micro-elemental analysis devices. Speakers will deliver presentations on root cause analysis for food safety, and water and food safety – moving from a target model to a holistic perspective. Some of the leading manufacturers and distributors which will participate in the analytica Lab Africa exhibition area include: Chemetrix Export; Eins-Sci; Inqaba Biotechnology Industries; Leco Africa; Metrohm South Africa; and United Spectrometer Technologies. Analytica lab Africa will be co-located with IFAT Africa and food & drink technology Africa, with AECI Water as the diamond sponsor of the three co-located trade fairs, which will take place from 13 to 15 July 2021 at Gallagher Convention Centre.

COVID-19 vaccines and the last mile While we await the first vaccines to either arrive in the country via air, or under licence from locally manufactured sources, there remains another obstacle. The so-called cold supply chain that needs to remain intact when delivering the COVID-19 vaccine country-wide. The temperatures need to go well below 0°Celsius, and in some cases down to -70°C. If not, the vaccine will break down and become unusable by the time it reaches the patient. While this distribution might be easier for European countries and the USA, it’s likely to be a mammoth logistical challenge for Africa.

SHIPPING AND COLD STORAGE CHALLENGES

South Africa has recorded more than 1 million coronavirus infections – the highest number on the African continent – and more than 30 000 deaths. So far, it is hosting at least four clinical trials of potential COVID-19 vaccines, including the J&J candidate which will be produced locally. The vaccine will have to travel from manufacturing plants to storage and distribution facilities and then healthcare establishments. The Pfizer/BioNTech vaccine, from its point of manufacture to

patient administration, cannot be removed from a temperature of -70°C more than four times. This is different for the Modena vaccine, which can be stored for six months at -20°C for shipping and long-term storage, and at standard refrigeration temperatures between 2°C to 8°C for 30 days. Two doses of both vaccines are required.

TEMPERATURE-SENSITIVE SOLUTIONS

For many years, Labotec has been at the forefront of delivering time- and temperature-sensitive solutions with the Forma Thermo Scientific range of high performance freezers and fridges. The company’s specialists have already explored the best options for the COVID-19 vaccine with a comprehensive strategy. Thermo Scientific cold storage products are designed and built to support the temperature requirements of pharmaceuticals and vaccine manufacturing as well as distribution and storage worldwide with products devised to deliver safe and reliable vaccine storage while supporting accreditation and quality management standards. Labotec – www.labotec.co.za

analytica Lab Africa – www.analytica-africa.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

PACKAGING PROFILES

Tech innovations by Marchesini, represented locally by MGSA Projects CONTACT DETAILS Cell: 082 460 2766 Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za Web: wwwmgsaprojects.co.za or www.marchesini.com

X-FAT enables customers to connect via streaming to Marchesini’s in-house technicians, to complete testing procedures

COMPANY DESCRIPTION In South Africa, MGSA Projects is the appointed agent and local Marchesini technical service provider. Owned and managed by Myles Davis, MGSA Projects employs two Marchesinitrained technicians. The company strives for the ultimate service experience and provides its customers with exceptional support. Over the past 18 months, MGSA Projects has completed various installations at South African pharma manufacturing and life sciences facilities, including an effervescents line, an eye-drop line and an aseptic line for prefilled syringes. MGSA Projects is based at Gateway Industrial Park in Jet Park, Boksburg, Gauteng. The company operates out of two units, which include a showroom, administrative office and factory for spare parts, as well as a site for the technicians.

REMOTE AFTER-SALES SUPPORT In order to continue to offer full assistance to customers in the current context of COVID-19, Marchesini Group has consolidated its remote after-sales support services. To manage these services, a unit called X-CARE has been set up with the task of coordinating all the remote testing procedures required during these exceptional times. The end result is a complete kit of services that can also be used individually

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Group has introduced a new service called Mimo. This is a system of video cameras installed on the machine. Thanks to a recording rate of 100 frames per second and a proprietary and will remain digital trigger in operation framework, Mimo even after permits the recording the pandemic of errors throughout the situation has production process at the returned to normal. exact moment they occur. Marchesini inspection monitoring Currently supplied in FAT VIA STREAMING a case with the installation In the March to November hardware, Mimo is supported by an app period, Marchesini Group conducted that guides the customer through the 90 X-FATs, which enabled customers, who correct installation of the video cameras were unable to physically travel to the on the machine. This makes it possible to group’s offices, to connect via streaming have a complete and precise overview of to in-house technicians and to complete accidental errors and allows for problems testing procedures. to be solved remotely, without the need for Thanks to the use of fixed and mobile onsite technicians. cameras positioned along a machine or Mimo joins the already well-established line, numerous customers – including live assistance and teleservice services, the Spanish pharmaceutical company which make up Marchesini Group’s Laboratorios ERN, which remotely tested X-Service. The live assistance service allows its line for packaging liquids in bottles an experienced operator to see inside the and vials – have been able to request machine and provide solutions in real time, clarification regarding functions, settings improving troubleshooting effectiveness and formats before delivery. through a dedicated app or smartglasses. Customers who have also installed THE NEW FRONTIER OF teleservice software on their systems can AFTER-SALES remotely set up the operator panel via a Technology is also making it possible secure connection, allowing Marchesini to remotely implement the procedures Group technicians to work on the line following machine delivery. To support directly from their own office, cutting costs X-SAT – the final line acceptance carried and speeding up procedures. • out at a customer’s premises – Marchesini

PACKAGING PROFILES

Protecting the essential with Tournaire COMPANY DESCRIPTION Tournaire offers a full range of packaging in aluminium or co-extruded plastic with various closing systems and different capacities. Founded in 1833, Tournaire came into being along with the first perfume flower distilleries in Grasse, France. Originally a coppersmith, manufacturer of stills and cans for flower oils in copper, the company continually acquired new expertise to meet the specific needs of the developing perfume industry. Tournaire’s packaging division is represented locally by Sensetek, a supplier of fragrance compounds, flavours and pure essential oils to the fragrance and flavour, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food industries.

KEY PRODUCTS AND MARKETS Today Tournaire’s high-quality technical packaging is available throughout the world. With the fullest range of aluminium

and co-extruded plastic packaging on the market, Tournaire covers fields as varied as pharmaceuticals, agrochemicals, fragrances, the food processing industry and specialty chemicals, with the highest levels of quality, service and safety. Its packaging products are adapted to all types of applications and comply with international regulations governing uses for pharmaceuticals, foodstuffs, veterinary and plant-health products etc.

BENEFITS AND UNIQUE SELLING POINTS Tournaire’s monobloc aluminium packaging is available in a large choice of capacities from 15g to 25kg. The benefits of this packaging include cleanliness, tightness, great aesthetics, consistent quality and a low carbon footprint. If you’re looking for a high-end brand image for your products; packaging solutions

for sampling; the very best in protection, preservation and shipment of samples; or UN-certified packaging from 50mℓ and upwards – Tournaire and Sensetek have a solution for you. • CONTACT DETAILS Tel: +27 (0)11 608 4944 Email: sales@sensetek.biz Web: www.sensetek.co.za | www.tournaire.fr/en Location: 24 Village Crescent, Linbro Park Office Park, Johannesburg

Supplied by Sensetek

Tel 011 608 4944 | Fax 011 608 4948 | Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2018/03/28 7:54 AM

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

PACKAGING PROFILES

– a specialist in plastic COMPANY DESCRIPTION Designa is a one-stop shop for converting concepts into complete finished products, from design and drawing to prototyping and manufacturing. For over two decades Designa has been at the forefront of product design and manufacturing of plastic products. Founded in 1992, Designa’s focus was on custom injection moulding. Over the years, the focus of the company has shifted to rigid packaging for the cosmetic industry. Designa is your go-to South African manufacturer of custom-made plastic tubes for the cosmetic industry for therapeutic creams, gels, beauty products and ointments. The company offers exceptional customer service and quick turnaround times. Whilst its focus is currently on the expansion of Designa’s tube manufacturing division, it also offers plastic manufacturing solutions for brand owned customers. Customers’ needs are met with over 40 production machines for injection moulding, injection blow moulding and injection stretch blow moulding, screen and pad printing.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

NEW PRODUCTS Driven by innovation, due to the exponential demand for personal hygiene packaging and hand sanitiser packaging products, Designa now manufactures a 24/410 100mℓ HDPE bottle with either a capped spritzer or a flip top cap. This travel size bottle is perfect for handbags, baby bags, vehicles and children’s school bags to ensure that your hygiene products are close at hand. This bottle is available in either natural or white.

CUSTOMISABLE OFFERINGS Designa still specialises in the manufacturing of plastic squeeze tubes. The company has a complete set-up of machinery offering a comprehensive bulk manufacturing process of plastic tubes for use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. The equipment is geared towards continuous extrusion moulding, heading injection moulding, capping and screen printing. This enables quick turnaround times. The premium two-layer tubes are manufactured from a polyethylene blend of materials. Designa understands that each squeeze tube is specific to each individual customer’s needs, which is why customers can customise their tube and cap colours as well as screen printing on their tubes, up to four colours with a varnish application. While tube diameters are set, the length of the tube can be adjusted to a customer’s specific needs.

CONTACT DETAILS Tel: +27 (0)81 468 9600 Email: sales@designaplastics.co.za Web: www.designaplastics.co.za Unit 5 Dura Industrial Park 90 Escom Road New Germany Kwazulu Natal Find us here: https://goo.gl/maps/ nfLn3NC8Fj5YM9uX8

PLASTIC SQUEEZE TUBES IN PRODUCTION • 30mm diameter squeeze tube with a foil anti-tamper seal and a threaded screw cap • 40mm diameter squeeze tube with a flip top cap; a heat shrink seal can be applied over the cap if an anti-tamper seal is required • 50mm diameter squeeze tube with a foil anti-tamper seal and a screw-on flip top cap • the Designa team is currently hard at work developing a range of 25mm and 35mm diameter squeeze tubes, which will be launched during the course of 2021.

STOCK PRODUCTS • 100mℓ HDPE bottles 24/410 with either a flip top cap or spray atomiser • PET clear Jars in 60mℓ, 100mℓ and 130mℓ sizes with standard coloured caps • roll-on bottles (generic shape and round) with a large roll-on ball and cap with a 50mℓ to 60mℓ fill capacity • clear 60mℓ PET bottles with a puffer and lid. •

"Customers can customise their tube and cap colours as well as screen printing"

PACKAGING PROFILES

A preferred supplier of high-quality labels and select printing products COMPANY DESCRIPTION Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. (SIP) was established in 2000 as a result of a merger between Siyakha Printers, Johannesburg and Imperial Printing, Durban. A common vision was shared on the production of value-added high-quality labelling to the industry. Today SIP has branches in Durban and Johannesburg and representation in all nine provinces through strategic distribution and marketing networks. The company is therefore perfectly positioned to provide comprehensive quality and cost-effective solutions to all your labelling needs.

MAJOR PRODUCTS AND SERVICES • • • •

Wrap-around labels Pressure-sensitive labels Peal-and-read labels Shrink sleeves

SUPERIOR PRINTING TECHNOLOGY SIP understands the labelling process is critical to maintaining compliance. Not only does a label act as a unique identifier to prove authenticity to healthcare professionals, but it also ensures that active ingredients and concentrations are clearly understood. There can’t be any margin for error as the consequences of inaccurate ingredients are too high. It makes sense to ensure labelling technology is a priority, so it can address inconsistencies in processes, mitigate human errors, enhance label quality and improve business agility in order for companies to produce compliant, high-quality labels in a cost-and-timeefficient manner.

KEY MARKETS AUTOMATED INSPECTION TECHNOLOGY Investing in the latest automated inspection technology provides advanced process control and quality assurance. The integrated quality inspection system is designed to enhance print quality via automatic online and offline inspection and sophisticated colour measurement. It features proprietary algorithms that detect information and artwork control unique to

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

CONTACT DETAILS Durban tel: 031 5025050 Joburg tel: 083 800 5555 Email: info@labelprint.co.za Web: www.labelprint.co.za pharmaceutical requirements. The system is highly integrated throughout SIP’s printing and finishing processes.

TRACEABILITY AND SAFTEY SOLUTIONS Offering clients advanced dimensional barcode scanning technology allows for better traceability, authentication and convenience of information, such as product description, serial number and URL, on the restricted surface area of pharmaceutical packaging. SIP has formulated specialised coatings for counterfeiting prevention and product identification, as well as cleverly designed tamper proof packaging for product security. The company’s experience and expertise make SIP the first choice among a wide range of blue-chip FMCG customers. The company houses high-definition press technology that provides production flexibility, which allows us to confidently tackle the most difficult labels, maintaining a superior product throughout, even on the largest production runs. •

INDUSTRY TALK

Innovative refill packaging Refill containers are becoming increasingly popular for cleaning products. The reasons why are clear to see. They are small and light, consume significantly less plastic, reduce freight expenses by up to 90% and allow for the reuse of sophisticated spray bottles. With Now, Alpla presents an ideal packaging solution for concentrated cleaning chemicals. Alongside the numerous environmental benefits, it also offers the added value of being safe, easy and fun for consumers to use. By Danilo Grieco

ost cleaning products consist mostly of water. That is why it is a good idea both ecologically and economically to provide the active ingredients in a concentrated form. Alpla has developed an ideal solution for this application in the form of Now. The packaging solution consists of two elements:

200 000 refill containers can be carried by a single truck. In comparison, a lorry only has space for roughly 19 000 spray bottles. Unlike spray bottles, refill containers are also much better suited to e-commerce deliveries. The handy size also offers benefits for consumers. If household cleaners are more often bought during large grocery runs, refill

1. A small bottle with liquid concentrate. The snap lid developed especially for it features a predetermined breaking point, yet it still seals the bottle safely. 2. Minimalist neck inset which is inserted into the cleaner bottle and allows for an easy press through the predetermined breaking point. The neck inset remains in the neck of the bottle while the spray nozzle can be screwed back on without a problem. All the consumer needs to do is follow the instructions on the refill container. The small bottle is plugged headfirst onto the cleaner bottle. The concentrate flows safely and easily into the bottle after an audible click. When used properly, it is impossible to spill the concentrated liquid and have undesired contact with the skin. The process is concluded by adding water. Now is sustainable on all levels and consistently realises the three core principles

containers can be picked up on the spur of the moment, at any time.

to spray bottles in particular. However, spray bottles, which release a volume of about 1.5mℓ per pump, become rubbish after roughly 300 pumps even if they are still usable. With refill solutions for these cleaning products, spray bottles can be reused over and over again. The inset needed to press through the predetermined breaking point in the closure stays in the bottle and is reused as a result.

RECYCLE

REUSE Many household cleaning products sport heavy and elaborate packaging, which applies

Now is made 100% of high-density polyethylene (HDPE). The empty container is fully recyclable and can be disposed of in the recycling sack or bin. Since the refill container is attached headfirst onto the cleaning product bottle, the remaining contents are discharged optimally. Recycled HDPE can be used to manufacture the refill container, making a bottle-to-bottle life cycle possible. •

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Danilo Grieco is Alpla’s project manager for innovation. The 32-year-old has been an Alpla employee since 2017. He started his career as a food market sales analyst for Central and Eastern Europe. In April 2019, he joined the innovation team and is now responsible for the ‘reuse’ search field, among other things.

of the circular economy: reduce; reuse; recycle.

REDUCE In terms of ‘reduce’, Now is ultra-lightweight. The container weighs only 10g when filled with 80mℓ, approximately half the weight of comparable competitor products for concentrates. Compared with containers for ready-to-use cleaning products, this packaging solution saves even more than 80% of the material used. Thanks to the light weight and minimal size, freight expenses are reduced by up to 90% because more than

Alpla – www.alpla.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

INDUSTRY TALK

Africa’s first fully biodegradable rigid plastic jar KwaZulu-Natal-based Teqal, a specialist producer of biodegradable injection moulded rigid plastic packaging for cosmetics and industrial products, has been awarded a R50mn financing facility by the Industrial Development Corporation to expand its factory at the Dube TradePort Special Economic Zone.

lobally plastic waste accounted for 6.3bn metric tons in 2015, This amount of waste is expected to double by 2050, according to Satista. The cosmetics industry is considered a major contributor producing an estimated 120b n units of packaging every year, most of which is not recyclable. “The only way to change the impact of plastic on the environment is at product level, and a biodegradable solution will have a major impact on the environment,” says Sean Kirkham, Teqal’s sales and marketing director, who has been in the industry for over 20 years. The company started a greenfields business four years ago in a mini factory in the Dube Trade House. It has a highly-skilled team and has invested R39mn in high-tech

Did you know? Teqal’s strengths include the strategic registration of functional and technical designs and patents, along with in-house high-end packaging, tool-making and design experience – all of which are vital in generating value in the personal care and cosmetics industry.

equipment and automation to develop Africa’s first biodegradable cosmetics jar and a full wraparound in-mould labelled jar.

CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT Teqal is a globally competitive ownermanaged business with highly-experienced people who care. Over and above quality, the company is focused on caring for the environment in its business and in the business of its clients. Not only is Teqal’s cosmetics jar completely biodegradable, it is 30% lighter than its closest competitor and uses 60% less energy to manufacture. All of which adds to reducing the carbon footprint of the jar. There are a lot of challenges in recycling, including the fact that some plastic products can only be recycled once or twice, preventing them from being recycled any further. “Our cosmetics packaging is not green washing. This is not about making people feel good. It is 100% decomposable and has no microplastics,” explains Kirkham. The bio-based material used to produce the external components is Seedling-certified. This is a Swiss certification that verifies the compostability of a product, according to the European standard EN 13432. If the Sean Kirkham says Teqal’s cosmetics packaging is not green washing

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

components end up in the ocean, landfill, or are placed in soil, they will fully biodegrade and will not leave any microplastics behind.

MAJOR FINANCIAL BOOST Since being established, the company has expanded three times at the Trade House and currently takes up 750m2 of space. Now with a major five-year contract in hand and financing to build its own factory, Teqal is looking to move to TradeZone 1 within the Dube TradePort. A new 2 500m2 factory with capacity to double in size is also in the planning. The business benefits of being located at the Dube TradePort SEZ made it an obvious choice for Teqal. Topping the list is security, while the proximity to the King Shaka International Airport is also highly rated. Kirkham has had more customers visit the factory in four years than in the entire 20 years at his previous factory, which was located elsewhere in Durban. “It’s easy for people en route to another appointment to pop in for coffee and have a look at what we are doing. There’s no better marketing than showing customers our factory and explaining our product. It’s invaluable.” The mini-factory environment in the Trade House is also ideal for start-ups. The lease terms are flexible enough to give long-term lease security as well as enable Teqal to easily move to bigger premises within the same zone. The infrastructure and ease of access for trucks are also noteworthy. Dube TradePort Corporation is an environmentally arduous place for businesses with strict requirements and regular audits. But for a company that uses solar power, energy-efficient servo-driven equipment and solven- free ink, it is easy to comply. “This is what we are about. The audits provide us with a benchmark and give us a helping hand in the right direction,” Kirkham concludes. • Teqal – www.teqal.co.za

Unlocking potential, innovation and excellence on the African continent CJP Chemicals, established in 1986, is a leading stockist and distributor of both speciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety of industries. With sales offices and warehouses in all four major business districts of South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape Town & Port Elizabeth, CJP Chemicals has the capacity to supply a diverse range of products. Together with our strong and long standing partnerships with both international and local producers, CJP Chemicals has the reach to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical and logistical solutions to all our customers. Our Personal Care division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and efficacy to our customers’ formulations. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anti Ageing Agents Anti Bacteria Anti caking Anti Fungal Bulking Agent Butters Carbomers Carrier Oils Conditioning Agents Emolients Emulsifier Essential oils Excipents Exfoliating Agents Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols Fillers Fragrances Gelling Agents Glycols Humectants Matting Agents Moisturising Agents Peeling Granules Petrolatum Polymers Polysorbates Preservatives Sebum Regulator Silicones Skin Whiteners Soaps Solubilzer UV Filters Surfactants Thio-Compounds Vegetable Oils Waxes White Mineral Oils

Tel: 011-494-6700 Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

The challenge of balancing the microbiota For more than 10 years, exploration of the microbiota has been growing in scientific communities with the creation of the human microbiome project. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now time for a waypoint in this discovery. Anne-Sophie Dutailly, wesource product manager, Seppic beauty care, explores the changing vision on the microbiota.

or the cosmetics industry, the microbiota is associated with a holistic approach to beauty, where studies on the body and its microbiota have become central to health and well-being. The development of future products takes into account respect for the skin microbiota and a new approach to certain skin disorders such as dandruff and oily, dry or sensitive skin. Skin microbiome science is currently in its infancy and almost no standard models exist. Yet it is known that an imbalance in skin microbiota is associated with three major disorders: 1. dry skin 2. skin itching/redness 3. oily skin.

skin disorders, and the many related visible side effects. The only thing we can be sure of is that any modification on one targeted bacteria or mould will have an impact on the entire fragile ecosystem. Most scientific studies are interested in analysing the diversity of the microbiota. However, we could question the relevance of these studies knowing the fickleness of the microbiome. In vitro models are very limited given the complexity of the microbiota, the difficulty of co-cultivating several bacteria and controlling their interaction with skin models.

However, it is still unclear if unbalanced microbiota could be the cause of these

constant evolution, wesource, the Seppic brand of active ingredients, took up the

Figure 1: Subligana regulation of the harmful effects of Cutibacterium acnes secretome

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

MILD MICROBIOTA BALANCE Aware of all the scientific limits and

challenge of attaining microbiota balance with alternative solutions. In partnership with external providers, we set up an in vitro innovative model aimed at studying the influence of the Cutibacterium acnes secretome on the barrier function of reconstructed epidermis. The concept was to measure the influence of one of our actives, Subligana, an extract of the Harungana madagascariensis tree, on the secretome issued by the bacteria and its effect on the skin without altering the C. acnes. It appeared that the C. acnes secretome had a deleterious effect on skin barrier and skin cohesion which Subligana was able to counteract by providing up to 65% protection (see Figure 1). Subligana has shown good properties on volunteers as it combines a soothing, antioxidant effect and visibly reduces imperfections, whilst decreasing whiteheads by 34% and blackheads by 37%. It additionally offers pore minimising benefits for an improved skin texture, which was perceived by 85% of the volunteers as compared to the benchmark at 55%. A second in vitro model made it possible to study the biofilm of Staphylococcus aureus in the presence of Staphylococcus epidermidis on a reconstructed epidermis. The pathologies associated with S. aureus range from minor infections to invasive and potentially dangerous diseases. S. aureus infections of the skin, associated with skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis, occur in part through the development of a biofilm. In

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

this model, we were able to demonstrate the effect of Equibiome on biofilm formation while respecting the bacterial balance (see Figure 2). When tested on volunteers with very dry and/or sensitive skin, Equibiome targeted two of the major imbalances linked to the microbiota disorder. It improved the skin’s tolerance threshold to environmental stresses by reducing skin redness (60%) and stinging/burning sensations (20%) after 14 days versus the placebo. For better and longlasting skin comfort, Equibiome promotes skin moisturisation, which is evident in a 56% increase after 21 days versus the placebo. Fluidipure 8G is a biomimetic multipurifying active agent, which offers complete protection of the skin. As a glycine and sugar biovector, Fluidipure 8G helps to regulate the proliferation of microorganisms responsible for cutaneous disorders or malodours while preserving bacteria beneficial to the skin. At a higher concentration, it regulates microorganisms responsible for formula

Did you know?

contamination, thus a reduction in the quantity of preservatives. Beyond the active ingredients, all the ingredients in a formulation can potentially have an impact on the microbiota and Seppic has launched a process to characterise these.

SENSORIAL INGREDIENTS TO THE RESCUE When it comes to microbiota balance, it’s not only the active ingredients that have to be considered, but also all formulation ingredients. One of Seppic’s most famous emollients, Emogreen L19 was proven to be microbiota friendly. The emollient was tested at 10% in an o/w emulsion, which was applied on skin for 28 days. When compared to the same formula containing a classical oil (Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride), Emogreen L19 was able to improve the balance of very dry skin

Figure 2: Equibiome regulation on S. Aureus and S. Epidermidis on biofilm formation

Figure 3: The impact of Emogreen L19 on the bacteria population within very dry skin microbiota, after 28 days

microbiota (see Figure 3). This non-polar oil showed a capacity to increase the population of the Corynebacterium, Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus within the skin microbiota. These three genera are known to participate in the production of the hydrolipidic film, involved in skin hydration. Therefore an increase in the three species is in favour of a reconstituted hydrolipidic film, which is the first step to better skin hydration. For Seppic, the microbiota study has far reaching implications beyond that of offering cosmetic solutions, it is a part of a holistic, global research programme that spans several areas of application including nutricosmetics and dermocosmetics and in providing a comprehensive supportive approach to the human body and its microbiome ecosystem. The wesource portfolio of active ingredients is available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, the appointed agent of Seppic. •

REFERENCES: • Baldwin HE, Bhatia ND, Friedman A, Eng RM, Seite S. The role of cutaneous microbiota harmony in maintaining a functional skin barrier. J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(1):1218.

Equibiome is sourced at the core of great burdock roots using an innovative aeroponic plant culture, in partnership with Plant Advanced Technology.

• Byrd AL, Belkaid Y, Segre JA. The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2018;16(3):143-155. • Cogen AL, Nizet V, Gallo RL. Skin microbiota: a source of disease or defence? Br J Dermatol. 2008;158(3):442-55. • Dréno B, Pécastaings S, Corvec S, Veraldi S, Khammari A, Roques C. Cutibacterium acnes (P. acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2018;32 Suppl 2:5-14. • Human Microbiome Project Consortium. A framework for human microbiome research. Nature. 2012a;486(7402):215-21. • Lafforgue Christine, Skin & Microbiota - SFC Training 2018

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com/en

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Exploring the skin microbiome For the past 30 years, Solabia Group’s specialisation in the microbiome has formed an integral part of research and development in the cosmetics industry. This is thanks to the company’s signature active ingredients Bioecolia, Ecoskin, Teflose and Saniscalp. These actives and other Solabia technologies are available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals.

he human body is a complex ecosystem, in constant interaction with the outside world. It is colonised by a set of micro-organisms that coexist in very diverse habitats. These micro-organisms provide protection and play a role in many physiological phenomena. In return, the body provides them with all the necessary elements for their survival: free water; carbon; nitrogen sources and microelements. Many endogenous and exogenous disturbances can affect this host/microorganism relationship which can lead to imbalances, resulting in the development of various disorders. At the skin level, these can include atopic dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, dandruff, etc. It is therefore necessary to ensure a balanced microbiota, which is the guardian of body wellbeing and health. The Solabia Group research team found inspiration in biotechnology by firstly studying the sources of carbon metabolised by the commensal microorganisms in the human body. The result is four main solutions for microbiomefriendly beauty care:

The skin microbiome

• Bioecolia, launched over 30 years ago, feeds the microbiota • Ecoskin, an innovative preand postbiotic that strengthens skin’s natural defences • Teflose, a bacterial anti-adhesion shield acting on oily skin, sensitive skin and body hygiene • Saniscalp, a rebalancing scalp purifier.

FEEDING THE MICROBIOTA

"It is important to consider the microbiome as an integral part of the skin“ 36

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Composed of a sequence of glucose units, prebiotics are the favourite substrate for feeding our body micro-organisms. Obtained according to enzyme biocatalysis from vegetable substrates, Bioecolia provides the source of carbon for most of the microorganisms and is mainly metabolised by the commensal micro-organisms of our ecosystem. This selectivity is due to the presence of specific connections that enable a faster and more efficient use of glucose by

The mode of action of Solabia’s active ingredients that act on the skin microbiome

our flora. This competitive inhibition limits the development of pathogens responsible for dysbiosis. Thus, by acting globally on the microbiomes of skin, scalp and mucous membranes, Bioecolia acts as the guardian of our ecosystem.

STRENGTHENING THE NATURAL DEFENCES With the interest of probiotics in nutrition, Solabia has continued its research to develop a symbiotic active ingredient. The active combines two prebiotic and two postbiotic bacteria in an inactivated form of plant origin to obtain Ecoskin. In addition to the ability of the complex to interact bio-selectively on the microbiota, the gluco-oligosaccharides and fructooligosaccharides have demonstrated stimulatory properties of the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides of types Beta-defensin2 and Beta-defensin3. By improving the appearance and comfort of the skin, Ecoskin enhances the radiance of the complexion and reduces the sensations of discomfort characteristic of sensitive and dry skin.

MICROBIOME BEAUTY ANTI-ADHESION SHIELD The colonisation of the cutaneous area and mucous membranes uses adhesion factors associated with specialised structures present on the surface of the bacteria. These have the ability to bind to skin-specific receptors to limit the adhesion of pathogenic bacteria and the formation of biofilms. As a result, Teflose – a polysaccharide with a high concentration of rhamnose – was developed. This molecule acts as an antiadhesion shield on the skin’s surface, reducing the resulting reactions of

Bioecolia molecule

Microbiome_110x168.pdf 1 10/12/2020

Did you know? The human body has more micro-organisms than there are stars in the Milky Way. discomfort. Ubiquitous because of its applications (soothing care, deodorant care, care of sensitive skin / atopic dermatitis, oily skin care), Teflose can be combined with prebiotics, favouring the maintenance of the microbiota and shielding the implantation of pathogenic bacteria, especially if the ecosystem of the skin is weakened.

REBALANCING SCALP PURIFIER

Acting on the basis of a healthy scalp, Saniscalp is an active ingredient from passion fruit seedcake, enriched in piceatannol dimers and obtained by enzymatic bioconversion using Laccase technology patented by Solabia. Saniscalp soothes a weakened scalp by modulating inflammatory mediators for a preventive and curative action. It also improves the scalp barrier cohesion by regulating epidermal differentiation to manage desquamation and reinforces 16:03:27

the scalp’s natural defence by limiting microbiota imbalances. By protecting the scalp from inflammation and fortifying the barrier and the natural defences, Saniscalp offers complete antidandruff protection for a strong, healthy and comfortable scalp.

PERSPECTIVES AND CONCLUSION The development of scientific knowledge on the role of the human microbiota has led to a change in the approach of the cosmetic industry. Only recently, microorganisms were perceived negatively because they were considered as the cause of many diseases – but today mentalities have changed. This is why it is important to consider the microbiome as an integral part of the skin. Many promising avenues remain to be explored and will undoubtedly change the approach to skin care and the ingredients used to provide protection and nurture its wellbeing. •

Solabia Group – www.solabia.com Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

EXPLORING THE SKIN MICROBIOME: INNOVATIVE STRATEGIES TO MAKE YOUR ECOSYSTEM HAPPY!

Prebio�cs

ECOSKIN®

Probio�cs

[ Pre-Postbio�c ]

Postbio�cs

BIOECOLIA® [ Prebio�c ]

SANISCALP®

[ Rebalancing Scalp ]

The body is a complex ecosystem colonized by microorganisms. Many disturbances can aﬀect this host-microorganism relationship. It’s essential to ensure microbiota balance,

TEFLOSE® [ Shield ]

guardian of body well-being. > Solabia oﬀers several ��-�� strategies for a protected and healthy skin!

contact.cosme�cs@solabia.com

www.solabia.com

+33 1 48 10 19 40

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

LactoSporin research marks an industry first

As Sabinsa’s R&D scientists expanded their understanding of probiotics and developed new products based upon their increased knowledge, it was inevitable that published studies would soon follow. The company has recently published its first human clinical study on the anti-acne benefits of LactoSporin, the probiotic metabolite derived from the highly-regarded probiotic LactoSpore. A second published study, in vitro, demonstrated the anti-ageing potential of this topical ingredient.

ovel Topical Application of a Postbiotic, LactoSporin, in Mild to Moderate

Acne: A Randomized, Comparative Clinical Study to Evaluate its Efficacy, Tolerability and Safety, a study by Majeed M, Majeed S, Nagabhushanam K, Mundkur L, Rajalakshmi HR and Shah K was recently published in the journal Cosmetics 2020; 7(3): 70. The study was conducted as a randomised, open-label, comparative study in 64 human volunteers with mild to moderate acne. As one of the first systematic clinical studies of a probiotic metabolite, the research demonstrates the efficacy of 2% LactoSporin w/w cream in reducing the severity of acne in human volunteers, with the effects comparable to benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel.

EFFECTIVE ANTI-ACNE ACTIVITY The anti-acne effects of LactoSporin were observed as early as three days. The threeweek study measured an improvement in the skin condition based on dermatologist visual assessment and instrumental measurements of acne spots. A significant improvement in all the assessed parameters was observed in both the LactoSporin and benzoyl peroxide groups. In addition, a significant decrease in sebaceous secretion was observed for LactoSporin, which resulted in reduced oiliness, pimples, acne spots and redness around the acne spot. LactoSporin was also found to be

Did you know? More information is available online on both of the studies featured in this article. Visit https://bit.ly/37UbQog to access more info on the anti-acne benefits of LactoSporin and https://bit.ly/3n4XRT7 for the antiageing potential of the topical ingredient.

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

stable at an acidic pH and temperature range of 70°C to 90°C, with antimicrobial activity against various pathogenic bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes. The study concluded that the efficacy of LactoSporin was equivalent to benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of mild to moderate acne lesions and has an advantage over benzoyl peroxide in individuals with oily skin.

INCREASED INTEREST IN POSTBIOTICS “The emerging field of postbiotics continues to garner interest from the scientific community, and this is an area of immense interest to Sabinsa as well,” says Shaheen Majeed, president worldwide of Sabinsa and a co-author of the study. “While our room-temperature shelf-stable probiotic, LactoSpore (Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856), has been successful in various applications ranging from supplements and beverages to baked goods, we wanted to explore the possibilities on the cosmetic front. Here we introduced LactoSporin, a metabolic byproduct of our probiotic, to help improve the composition of the skin’s beneficial bacteria. This study clearly shows that LactoSporin is highly suitable for treating subjects with mild to moderate acne vulgaris.” The cream was found to be safe and nonirritant in a repeated patch test conducted in 25 healthy individuals, prior to the anti-acne study.

ANTI-AGEING BENEFITS AND ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY In the second study, Skin Protective Activity of LactoSporin – the Extracellular Metabolite from Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 by Majeed M, Majeed S, Nagabhushanam K, Lawrence L, Arumugam S, and Mundkur L (Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 76), LactoSporin was evaluated

"LactoSporin was equivalent to benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of mild to moderate acne lesions" in vitro for its role in preserving skin integrity in cultured cells. LactoSporin was found to be a powerful antioxidant with reactive oxygenquenching activity. It showed protection against UV-induced cellular damage and inhibited collagenase activity, suggesting its potential use in preventing accelerated ageing. The probiotic metabolite was also found to inhibit the activity of the enzyme hyaluronidase, preventing hyaluronic acid fragmentation, which is the major cause of skin moisture loss. The increased expression of transforming growth factor -β and hyaluronan synthase in skin fibroblasts suggests that LactoSporin could keep the skin moisturised and maintain skin firmness. The study concluded that LactoSporin is a skin protective postbiotic with wide application in cosmetics formulations. “LactoSporin’s non-living microbial cell products possess several advantages over the probiotic itself, especially in skin care,” Majeed explains. “It shows biological activity in a non-viable state, is easy to formulate, has favourable physiochemical properties and shows improved inflammatory defence.” •

Sabinsa – www.sabinsa.com

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Restoring skin’s instinctive defences Based on a novel patented technology, Symrise has developed a microbiotic solution for sensitive skin. SymReboot L19 is said to be the first processed probiotic with an intact cell wall, promoting the delivery of the full spectrum of specific properties of the live bacterium although it is inert.

ymReboot L19 opens up new horizons for personal care products manufactured with probiotic ingredients. Symrise’s researchers have succeeded in maintaining the bacterial structure throughout the manufacturing process, preserving the important probiotic benefits – thanks to TrueBiotic technology. When applying a personal care product formulated with SymReboot L19, the skin cells recognise the cell-wall or metabolites of the mildly heat-treated microorganisms, activating the skin’s natural defence mechanisms, ultimately soothing the skin and strengthening the barrier.

specific selected lactobacillus strain. These include: • regulation of the microbiota pathways • sensitivity modulation • strengthening the barrier function • skin and scalp moisturisation • visible and sustainable reduction of skin and scalp dryness and flakiness reduction • anti-pollution. The specific benefits of the processed probiotic become truly accessible in preserved personal care formulations, even those that are rinse-off.

ENHANCED INSTINCTIVE DEFENCES

SymReboot L19 has been proven to preserve the natural microbiome of healthy skin as well as promote a healthy scalp microbiome. It visibly improves the dry scalp condition by

This microbiotic ingredient enhances the instinctive defences of the skin and scalp, due to the genuine structural efficacy of the

ADDITIONAL BENEFITS AND APPLICATIONS

reducing dry dandruff and soothing redness and itching. Due to the structure of the probiotic ingredient, it up-regulates anti-microbial peptides and filaggrin to strengthen skin’s barrier while down-regulating redness signals induced by stressors such as S. aureus. It is ideal for extra-dry, sensitive and atopic prone skin and scalp as it improves the moisture of dry skin in seven days and reduces dry dandruff in 14 days. It also strengthens skin protection against external aggressors such as pollution. The main applications of SymReboot L19 include sensitive skin care, baby care, dermocosmetics, dry skin care, atopic prone skin care, intimate hygiene and scalp care. • Symrise – www.symrise.com

SymRebootTM L19 TRUE BIOTIC

Restores the instinctive defenses of sensitive skin & scalp Based on a novel patented technology, Symrise introduces its first processed probiotic. The membrane of the bacterium is kept intact, thus delivering its full specific benefits to the skin & scalp. #MICROBIOTA PATHWAYS REGULATION #SOOTHING #SKIN BARRIER STRENGTHENING #DRY SCALP CARE

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci

SymReboot_PCRMag_177X130.indd 1

09.12.20 14:52

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Biological deodorant – a new concept in personal care

What if we could control body odour while respecting the natural physiology of the skin? In line with the clean beauty movement, in the deodorant market, there is a need for alternatives to conventional products that respect the important physiological functions like sweat production, as well as products that work harmoniously with the skin microbiota. By Ò Expósito, A Guirado, D Robustillo, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, S Ruiz, D Luna, S Laplana and T Ruiz

he daily battle against body odour is still dominated by two classic strategies: deodorants and antiperspirants. The so-called deodorants

and the latest in plant stem cell technology in the field of microbiota – quorum quenching. The active ingredient follows two strategies which act synergistically against the formation

often focus on eliminating bacteria by applying alcohol bases or bactericidal actives, or masking malodour using perfume. On the other hand, traditional antiperspirants’ strategies are based on clogging the pores with derivates of aluminium salts (aluminium chlorohydrate), depriving the bacteria in the axilla of malodour precursors and water. Vytrus Biotech has broadened the scope of axillary care by designing a biological deodorant ingredient that effectively eliminates bad odour. The strategy is an innovative combination that addresses caring for the microbiota through two key channels: 1. using a new prebiotic technology 2. re-balancing microbiota through the interaction with bacterial communication (i.e. quorum quenching).

of malodorous molecules derived from the armpit commensal microbiota.

A NOVEL BIOLOGICAL DEODORANT The new active ingredient discussed in this article (INCI: Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate) combines an innovative use of prebiotics

THE BIOLOGICAL STRATEGY The concentrated metabolome of the Morinda citrifolia plant stem cells is rich in specific fractions of terpenes. This molecular cocktail is designed to efficiently interfere with different bacterial species and prevent the exponential growth of certain species that would cause an imbalance in the bacterial ecosystem. The active ingredient is rich in anti-quormones (anti-quorum sensing molecules) and has been shown to be able to prevent the formation of bacterial communication or coordination factors (niche factors) and unwanted bacterial strategies involved in generating a bad smell.

THE PREBIOTIC STRATEGY This involves a specific and innovative prebiotic cocktail based on sugars which shifts the metabolism of commensal microbiota from lipids to polysaccharides. Microorganisms detect these polysaccharides

Figure 1: Analysis of the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

as an easier alternative to metabolise the nutritional supply and change their metabolism from lipids to sugars, resulting in less odorous by-products.

IN VITRO EFFICACY A series of in vitro tests were carried out to evaluate the properties of the active which demonstrate the interaction with the microbiota responsible for body odour. In vitro 1 involved the analysis of the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect. Firstly, the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect was demonstrated by quantifying the microbial population in the absence and presence of the active ingredient. It was found that there was a significant variation between the untreated cultures and the cultures treated with the active after 24 hours in various species, including C. acnes, C. aureus, P. aeruginosa, C. striatum, E. floccosum and M. furfur. The active showed a bacteriostatic effect halting the growth of the indicated species and maintaining the initial levels but without a bactericidal effect (see Figure 1).

Figure 2: Clinical evaluation of odorous volatile molecules reduction

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

armpits and a cream containing 1% of the active to the other armpit to evaluate the armpit odour modulation. For the armpit molecular analysis, more than 100 molecules responsible for body odour were first analysed by gas chromatography, demonstrating a 39% Figure 3: Clinical evaluation of feet odour reduction reduction of the odorous molecules. Figure 2 clearly shows a decrease For in vitro 2, the anti-biofilm effect on C. in the compounds after the application of the striatum, S. aureus, C. acnes and M. furfur was active vs placebo evaluated by fluorescence staining and laser On the other hand, the average intensity scanning confocal microscopy. The active of underarm odour was studied in the 19 was shown to inhibit the biofilm formation volunteers after having applied the active. up to 99% while keeping bacterial cells in The study showed a 30% reduction versus the suspension live. initial treatment and down to 82% The axillary perspiration rate was evaluated IN VIVO EFFICACY in the second in vivo test on a panel of eight In order to demonstrate the efficacy of the volunteers, both women and men, aged 28 active, three in vivo tests were performed. and 62, who applied a placebo cream and The first in vivo test involved the evaluation another cream with a dose of 1% of the active of armpit odour modulation. A group of 19 ingredient. It was shown that the active did not volunteers, aged between 20 and 56 years, significantly alter natural armpit perspiration. applied a placebo cream to one of their

The third in vivo test saw the average intensity of feet odour evaluated on a group of 10 volunteers, aged between 23 and 57. It was shown that with a cream that contained 1% of the active, a 21% average reduction of feet odour intensity versus the initial measurement and down to 47% was possible (see Figure 3).

CONCLUSION The active ingredient Deobiome Noni is an innovative deodorant treatment that respects the skin and its microbiota. The treatment allows the armpit skin to breathe while avoiding the generation of bad odour and respecting the biological ecosystem. Deobiome Noni represents a scientific advance for the treatment of body odour, respecting the skin microbiota, thanks to the innovative mechanism of action of the active ingredient, being the first biological deodorising active on the market. Deobiome Noni is available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. • Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

A holistic approach to restoring skin’s microbiota

Black BeeOme has been shown to efficiently exert a prebiotic effect – incorporating nutrients and generating conditions to restore the healthy skin’s natural microbiota following daily stress. Dr Irene Montaño of Mibelle Biochemistry explores how this black bee honey ferment active ingredient rebalances the skin’s natural microflora.

ormally, the microbiotic film protects skin from other damaging bacteria or pathogens. As it is the first line of defence, this film is continuously stressed by UV light, pollution, domestic chemicals and even by cosmetic products or treatments. This dynamic activity generates an imbalance in the skin microflora and their niches can later be colonised by transient, harmful bacteria. Regular washing of the skin, for example, can reduce and unbalance the skin’s ecosystem. Thus, the skin microbiota must recuperate from these daily threats. While a healthy barrier should not require extensive treatment, it should support an innate ability to rebound to normal homeostasis after being challenged.

HARMONISE SKIN MICROFLORA Black BeeOme, a runner-up in the Sustainable Beauty Award 2020, results from the fermentation of the honey of the rare wild dark

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

MICROBIOME BEAUTY

Figure 2: Overall skin improvement after 15 minutes of a single mask application

Figure 1: Support of the skin flora recovery after washing bee Apis mellifera mellifera using the bacteria Zymomonas mobilis. The prebiotic action of Black BeeOme helps to harmonise skin microflora after stress and ensures a healthy and pure skin. For more than 1 000 years, Zymomonas mobilis was used by the Aztecs to make the Mexican ‘drink of the gods’ pulque. This traditional beverage is made by fermenting the sap of the agave with Zymomonas mobilis (amongst other ingredients). The bacteria ferments only sucrose, glucose and fructose, leaving the complex sugars in a complete state. The black bee honey is fermented with Zymomonas mobilis to remove the basic sugars (glucose, fructose and sucrose), thereby eliminating a carbon source for undesirable bacterial growth on the skin. The ferment likewise contains factors that may help to control the growth of bacteria, yeast and fungi on the skin.

Did you know? Mibelle Biochemistry uses honey that is produced in isolated Swiss mountain valleys to produce Black BeeOme. Compared with the modern high-performance honeybee, the black bee is mostly gentle, lives in small colonies, is very resilient (significant winter hardiness) and possibly immune to varroa, the mite that attacks bees and is one of the reasons attributed to worldwide bee population decline.

Figure 3: Improvement in skin complexion after three days

COMPREHENSIVE TEST DATA In vitro and clinical studies have shown that Black BeeOme promotes a faster skin flora recovery after washing as well as skin barrier recovery (see Figure 1). In addition, the skin integrity recovery effect of Black BeeOme was evaluated in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical study. After 14 days of treatment with 1% Black BeeOme pwd, an improvement of TEWL compared to the placebo was observed on the inner forearms, despite the daily washing stress. In comparison to initial conditions, the improvement in TEWL was significant. The results revealed that the use of the active ingredient protected and reinforced the recovery of the skin barrier. The faster recovery of the skin ecosystem had a positive influence on the skin barrier regeneration as seen by the reduction of TEWL, compared

with the placebo. Furthermore, a reduction of 6.8% in sebum production and a 9% increase in skin evenness were achieved compared with the placebo and initial conditions.

EFFECTIVE IN APPLICATION When applied to a sheet mask, Black BeeOme showed a clear improvement of impure skin of volunteers living in urban, polluted areas after only 15 minutes of a single application (Figure 2). After three days of applying the mask containing 2% Black BeeOme, a significant improvement was observed in the clinical grading, including a: • 35% improvement in skin texture • 28% improvement in mattified skin aspect • 46% improvement in unified complexion (see Figure 3).

The parameters that characterise impure and oily skin associated with urban and polluted living areas were reduced after three days by using the sheet mask – a 12% reduction in inflammatory lesions and a 9% reduction in retentional lesions. Skin redness was reduced by 2% after 15 minutes and by 5% after three days. These results show that Black BeeOme used in a sheet mask at 2% contributed to ameliorating skin impurities and skin redness of the volunteers living in urban areas. Black BeeOme is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker, the approved distributor of Mibelle Biochemistry. • Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – www.mibellebiochemistry.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

When Class 0 means top-class medicine The pharmaceutical industry requires a pristine manufacturing environment which must meet the strictest levels of hygiene to ensure the integrity of finished products. A key enabler in producing these sterile, clean room-standard manufacturing conditions lies in the application of oil-free compressed air.

leader in the field of portable air, power, flow and lighting solutions, and part of the global Atlas Copco Specialty Rental division, Rand-Air plays a major role in the pharmaceutical industry, delivering agile, customer-centric solutions across every aspect of this demanding manufacturing environment. Rand-Air sales and marketing manager, Byrone Thorne, says: “Wherever industries demand the highest air quality for the end-product – and throughout the production process – Class 0 oil-free air is the solution. This includes the pharmaceutical and food and beverage processing industries, and others.” As world focus intensifies on the pharmaceutical industry to produce a vaccine

for the COVID-19 pandemic, and in support of guaranteeing sterile and safe manufacturing conditions, Rand-Air supplies Atlas Copco Class 0 oil-free compressors to the pharmaceutical industry, where the demand for medical products and services is growing. Thorne adds: “Within the pharmaceutical industry specifically, there is zero tolerance for any contamination during manufacturing. This is where Atlas Copco’s internationallyrecognised TUV Class 0 oil-free compressors have made

Did you know? Rand-Air, part of the global Atlas Copco Group, was established in 1973. With a solid national footprint and serving a diverse customer base both locally and in sub-Saharan Africa, the company has a product portfolio which includes TUVcertified oil-free, diesel or electric air solutions; as well as power, flow (pumps) and lighting solutions. Rand-Air is ISO 9000, 14000 and 18000-certified and is a Level 3 B-BBEErated company.

their mark in various aspects of manufacturing, including packaging and conveying the medical product during production via systems using pneumatic valves. Also, in the production of a variety of medical accessories such as the sachets used for intravenous drips, oil-free compressed air is a major part of the manufacturing process. “Rand-Air supplies the PT-, PN- and Z-ranges of compressors that are Class 0 oilfree. We focus on quality, health and safety, with solutions ranging from the lowest to the highest flows, and we keep abreast of technological advancements in key target markets, such as pharmaceuticals,” he adds.

AVOIDING CONTAMINATION RISKS Class 0 oil-free compressors guarantee 100% oil-free, dry air, as they comply with ISO 8573-1:2010-certification – a stringent standard that each compressor must meet.

A ZT315 VSD Class 0 oil-free compressor installed at an Adcock Ingram manufacturing facility

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

The standard specifies purity classes of compressed air with respect to particles, water and oil. It also identifies gaseous and microbiological contaminants. Thorne adds: “The PT-range of portable oil-free compressors – available in both diesel and electrical options – have a Teflon-coated air-end so contaminants such as dust, oil or water vapour do not come into contact with the customer’s product on the production line, thereby removing any contamination risk.” At the intake section, which draws in ambient air, a combination of driers that are only compatible with this range of compressors, adsorb 70% of any moisture that is present (much like silica crystals found in some packaging). The ejected air is 100% clean and dry, avoiding the need for extra filtration.

“As this moisture-absorbent material is regenerative, it can be reused several times, making it environmentally-approved, unlike technically oil-free compressors, where airborne oil is removed afterwards using a variety of filtration processes,” he says.

A LONG-TERM GUARANTEE Rand-Air’s Atlas Copco Class 0 oil-free compressors come with a reduced carbon footprint and they are said to be the most cost-effective answer to compressed air requirements, while adhering to the strictest environmental regulations. Thorne notes: “A technically oil-free compressor is potentially prone to failure as the result of poor maintenance and filter cleaning – amongst other factors – creating a contamination risk within the environment in which it is operating. There is also the high energy running cost to consider.” Rand-Air’s Class 0 oil-free compressors have a number of beneficial features, including variable-speed drives, which make them energy-efficient, increasing their environmental and energy compliance.

There is a growing demand for long-term hires into the medical and pharmaceutical industries, specifically the ZT-class of fixed compressors for use in applications such as critical care units, where reliable air flow can be controlled and is consistently safe for the environment. “The Class 0 oil-free range offers long-term hire customers lasting peace of mind, which is a cost saving in itself. This is in addition to the other support services that Rand-Air offers, including 24/7 technical support and the option of a replacement compressor should the need arise. The long-term hire option compares favourably with purchasing, which, at a time when finances are generally tight, entails significant capital outlay,” Thorne points out. “Rand-Air takes care of all aspects of compressor hire for the pharmaceutical and other industries which we supply – allowing our customers to focus on their core business. We also guarantee a long-term, safe, continuous supply of Class 0, totally oil-free, sterile air.” •

THE

Buyer’sguide "Class 0 oil-free compressors guarantee 100% oil-free, dry air"

2017/2018

Rand-Air – www.randair.co.za

THE

Buyer’sguide

2020/2021

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

COMPRESSED AIR TECHNOLOGY

Safety considerations when purchasing an

air dryer or compressor There are many companies marketing air dryers, air compressors, filters and even air receivers to South Africa. But there are a few reasons why caution should be exercised in terms of purchasing decisions. Allen Cockfield, CEO of Artic Driers International, looks at the safety implications of importing your own air dryer and compressor.

"An air oil separator that fails under pressure is lethal”

n many cases the equipment contains a pressure vessel. For example, the air/oil reclaimer in a rotary screw compressor is a pressure vessel. It should conform to the standards set out in SANS 347. A chemical heatless or heated air dryer and simple air receiver are also pressure vessels. The health and standard code must be displayed, for example, the ASME or RSA codes. The SANS 347 hazard category needs to be visible, as well as the Authorised Inspection Authority (AIA) number – which must also appear on the plate, along with the AIA unique stamp. In the case of Artic Driers International, any pressure vessel that is imported is inspected by the local AIA and a conformance certificate is issued to the client. This is signed by the AIA, as well as the importer. In the event of non-compliance, the seller/ importer and the purchaser could face criminal charges if a vessel fails (explodes). Even the installer could be held liable for criminal prosecution in the event of a vessel failing in service.

CHEAPER ISN’T ALWAYS SAFER An air oil separator that fails under pressure is lethal. Oil at 100°C along with flying steel is a devastating combination. A pressure or vacuum vessel that fails under pressure is equally lethal; whole buildings have been

destroyed with lives lost in the process, all in recent memory. Refrigeration air dryers may also fall into this category, depending on the design of the unit. These codes and regulations mean that a machine built to an international standard will often be more expensive. The inspection time spent here in South Africa when the goods arrive also adds to the landed cost. But, if and when something goes wrong, my clients and I have taken due care and having stayed within the regulations, it is unlikely that we would face criminal proceedings. There have been recent occurrences where buyers have saved money by purchasing large capacity air dryers and receivers offshore. Sure, it’s cheaper – because it does not conform to the standards recognised by SANS 347. There is also no local agent to provide technical support or who stocks spares and ancillary equipment.

REGULATIONS TAKE WELLBEING INTO ACCOUNT In a recent case, we had to decline to install a large chemical air dryer as it failed to comply with local codes. When three 6m3 air receivers fail, people will die and production lines will be obliterated. Engineers will also face culpable homicide charges. There is a good reason why it takes importers months of research and investigation before they say yes to a new range of equipment and allow it to be imported and sold in South Africa. Please believe me, we see many cases of unscrupulous importers blatantly ignoring the codes. This behaviour continues unabated, and it will lead to tragedy sooner or later. As the solicitors say, ‘caveat emptor’ – or, let the buyer beware. This term is actually part of a longer statement: Caveat emptor, quia ignorare non debuit quod jus alienum emit, meaning let a purchaser beware, for he ought not to be ignorant of the nature of the property which he is buying from another party. In simple terms, Goedkoop is duur koop. Pressure regulations should not be ignored, they are there to protect us from our own foolishness. • Artic Driers International – www.articdriers.co.za Allen Cockfield shows a unit from Artic Driers International which provides a clean compressed air and oxygen mix to patients via a Cpap

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Coschem offers added value and keeps members and industry connected

Are you a member of Coschem? If not, there are many reasons why you should consider membership. The society’s main objective is the promotion of education and professionalism, elevating the technical skills of personnel within the cosmetic and toiletry industry. Coschem hosts regular seminars, lectures, an annual scientific conference and administers cosmetic science training. It also hosts various networking events.

he Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa (Coschem) is a professional association of cosmetic chemists and associated technical persons and groups. For many years, South African cosmetic chemists and technical administrators felt the need for a medium of expression for the interchange of ideas of common interest to the cosmetic industry. They were also concerned with the broader objectives of establishing techniques and principles amongst the industry’s technical personnel. With these goals in mind, the concept of a society for cosmetic chemists in South Africa arose and those who proposed to inaugurate a society met in Johannesburg on 25 November 1976. As they say – the rest is history!

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE BENEFITS Since inception, Coschem has been a society for individuals; there is no corporate category. There are two options of membership, being full and associate membership. Full members must hold a scientific degree or diploma. These candidates have a voting right and may join the council. An associate membership is applicable to a candidate associated with the industry – for example sales, marketing etc. However, as per Coschem’s constitution, only full members may vote on relevant issues, and associate members are unable to join council. Both the full and associate memberships offer the following benefits: • automatic IFSCC membership (www.ifscc.org) • access to member society job boards hosted on a page in the member society section • job boards listings run by IFSCC member societies, with links • electronic copies of the IFSCC quarterly magazine • digital and printed copies of SA P&C Review

• discounts to attend various events • complementary access to lecture evenings • free access to the journal of skin pharmacology and physiology • promotion of and access to industry vacancies • industry networking • cosmetic science course.

A GOAL-DRIVEN SOCIETY The objectives of the society are to promote the advancement of science and technology in the cosmetic and toiletries industry, while aiming to improve the scientific knowledge of individual members. It also promotes high ethical standards of cosmetic science, provides a means for the dissemination and interchange of knowledge pertinent to cosmetic science and encourages research in cosmetic sciences. Finally, Coschem is also driven to maintain contact and promote dialogue with relevant industry bodies.

Did you know? Coschem recently re-launched its website with a fresh new look. Visitors to the site will find information on membership, educational programmes and specific details pertaining to cosmetic science training), as well as the society’s objectives. Visit www.coschem.co.za to find out more.

COSCHEM JHB YEAR-END LUNCHEON AT PICOLINOS Members and guests of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) enjoyed a casual catch up on 26 November, at Picolinos in Fourways. Although guests are pictured without their masks in this photograph, social distancing and COVID-19 compliance measures were adhered to during the event.

EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT The Cosmetic Science Course is a two-year part time/correspondence course run by Coschem. It is an industry-based course, which is highly recognised within the personal care industry. The course addresses the training needs of the developing cosmetic chemist and covers a vast scope of subjects within the cosmetic industry. Introductory topics include basic chemistry and cell physiology; thereafter the course progresses towards more specific fields such as hair and skin care. Mastering skills in packaging, marketing, production, legislation and the delivery of presentations benefit the students on the course. Assessment of progress throughout the course is in the form of tutorial exercises, assignments, practical exercises, presentations, product development and exam sessions. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Polystyrene recycling increased by 19% in 2019 Thanks to the tremendous growth in end-markets using post-consumer polystyrene, recycling of this packaging medium in South Africa increased by 19 % during 2019. According to the latest plastics recycling figures for the year ending December 2019, SA’s plastics conversion rate shrunk by 1.8% compared to the previous year.

dri Spangenberg, CEO of the Polystyrene Association of SA, comments: “South Africa experienced very difficult trading and manufacturing conditions in 2019. Factors such as the economic downturn, ongoing load shedding and the rising cost of electricity, fuel and labour had a particularly negative impact on the local recycling industry. Despite these deterring factors, we are very proud of the fact that we managed to increase our reprocessing of polystyrene to 6 653t last year.” Both expanded (EPS) and high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) were traditionally classified as ‘plastics that are difficult to recycle’. Because the material is light-weight and often bulky, collection and transportation are challenging and can result in bottlenecks in the supply chain. To address the crucial logistics issue, the Polystyrene Association of SA began fulfilling the role of a facilitator in 2019. By putting recyclers, collectors and suppliers of polystyrene in contact, the various end-markets that use post-consumer, recycled polystyrene started to enjoy a more consistent supply of recyclate and were able to increase their capacity.

CONSTRUCTION DEMAND INCREASES The 39 recyclers of polystyrene reprocessed 3 699t of EPS (meat and fruit trays, hamburger shells, take-away cups and containers) between them. In cubic meters, this equates to an eight-story building which is 29m high, or 3 237 shipping containers of 40-feet each. The décor market continued to be the largest end-market of EPS packaging materials, with 42% of all the recycled material going into the manufacturing of items such as picture frames, curtain rods, skirtings and profiles. However, Spangenberg reports that they saw a dramatic increase in the demand for recycled polystyrene used

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Lightweight concrete bricks made from recycled polystyrene

"We have developed a mechanism for polystyrene collection and recycling that is unlike anything else in the world" in the building and construction industries. She predicts that this is likely to develop into the biggest end-market during the next reporting period. “Towards the end of 2019, recyclers such as Envirolite Concrete began expanding its operations around the country. Owing to the fact that it is able to use post-consumer EPS and HIPS in every colour or grade, and thanks to the convenient locations of its factories, we were able to direct more materials to the company with shorter lead-times,” she says. These lightweight concrete bricks are made from recycled polystyrene coated with a special cement mixture. Incredibly strong, waterproof, fireproof and offering excellent insulation properties, these bricks are increasingly being recognised by architects, property developers and building contractors as alternative green building materials, which are environmentally safe and suitable for a

Lightweight cement made from recycled polystyrene

variety of different building applications – ranging from low-cost housing projects to designer homes and even shopping malls.

COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABILITY “We are very proud of our latest recycling figures as they bear testimony to the fact that our industry is truly committed to developing a sustainable, circular economy. We believe that polystyrene recycling is able to deliver a trifecta of solutions that address our country’s most pressing socio-economic problems, i.e. the need for housing and employment and the issue of plastic waste in the environment. South Africa has a unique set of challenges that require unique solutions. We have developed a mechanism for polystyrene collection and recycling that is unlike anything else in the world. With the buy-in and support from government, citizens and the rest of the industry, it has the potential to become a blueprint for other countries to follow,” Spangenberg concludes. • Polystyrene Association of SA – www.polystyrenesa.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS

SAAFFI helps industry navigate revisions to IFRA Standards The IFRA standards are the industry’s flagship programme for the safe use of fragrance ingredients. They help consumers enjoy fragranced products with confidence and set an industry-wide global framework and guidance for every manufacturer and compounder to follow. They also boost transparency while ensuring space for creativity and innovation.

n 2020, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), the global body representing fragrance ingredient manufacturers and compounders, published an update to the IFRA standards. Later in the year, on 19 November, the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry SAAFFI’s executive director, IFRA communications (SAAFFI) hosted a webinar Michael Gristwood director, David O’Leary in collaboration with IFRA to number of standards increased by 25, from help its members and cosmetics industry 191 to 216. There are also changes to 91 professionals understand the revisions existing standards. included in the 49 th amendment. The webinar was presented by Matthias Vey, IFRA vice president scientific affairs, who explained how the standards were established and the transparency behind the process. He also highlighted that the standards help consumers to enjoy fragrances with confidence.

A NEW SCIENTIFIC APPROACH The IFRA standards set maximum use levels on the use of certain fragrance ingredients in finished consumer goods products, based on scientific research into potential health and environmental effects. The standards – which also set purity rules or may ban certain ingredients for fragrance applications – are derived from scientific assessments by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) with independent oversight by the Expert Panel for Fragrance Safety. The latest update, known formally as the 49th Amendment to the IFRA Code of Practice, represents the most significant change to the standards in many years. The updated standards are derived from a new safety assessment approach, include rules based on overall consumer use of fragranced products, and feature new and revised product categories. The total

RELEVANT TO EVERYDAY LIFE The new standards for dermal sensitisation are based on a new assessment methodology, known as a quantitative risk assessment (QRA2), developed through a multi-stakeholder process involving dermatologists, academics, industry and other stakeholders. The platform for this development was the International Dialogue on the Evaluation of Allergens (IDEA). The new standards look at an aggregate exposure of fragrance ingredients via different consumer products, using a database of real-life product use and habits which feeds into a statistical model,

Did you know? As a member of IFRA, SAAFFI’s members are required to comply with the IFRA standards. This means members need to understand the changes and the underlying reasons for them, in order to comply. Fragrance ingredient manufacturers and compounders around the world will have until 10 February 2021 to comply with the new standards for new fragrance creations, and until 10 February 2022 for existing creations.

IFRA’s vice president scientific affairs, Matthias Vey

"The standards help consumers to enjoy fragrances with confidence" helping IFRA to understand how people use fragrance products in everyday life and to set rules that ensure consumers can continue to use them safely.

COMPLIANCE IS ENCOURAGED The new standards were developed over several years and were subject to a lengthy global stakeholder consultation in 2019. IFRA will continue to offer education, training and implementation support to members, consumer goods companies and other stakeholders to ensure correct application of the standards. The updated IFRA standards are publicly available at ifrafragrance.org. While the standards are compulsory for IFRA members, non-members are encouraged to follow them too as a way of promoting the safe use of fragrance as well as maintaining and enhancing consumer confidence in fragrance. • IFRA – www.ifrafragrance.org SAAFFI – www.saaffi.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2021

Tea

time Take a breather

>>>skin care quiz! Test your knowledge in our

1. What is the benefit of topical vitamin C?

2. Where is the thinnest skin located that people may neglect?

3. What is the most common type of skin cancer?

4. What are parabens? 5. What was the original use of Oil of Olay?

To advertise in

6. Do men need different skin care products to women?

contact

7. How often does the skin renew itself?

8. What role does vitamin D play in skin health?

9. What are the fats called which keep skin’s outer layer healthy?

10. What are the three layers of

Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

the skin?

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

ANSWERS

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

Anti-ageing; eyelids; basal cell carcinoma; preservatives; to aid burn wounds; yes – testosterone impacts men’s skin differently; every 28 days; protection, rejuvenation and optimises skin immunity; lipids; and epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous fat.

+27 (0)71 438 1918 www.pharmacos.co.za

Brenntag South Africa.......................IFC........www.brenntag.com/en-za

Jungheinrich South Africa ............. OBC........www.jungheinrich.co.za

Carst & Walker/

Merck........................................................17........www.merckgroup.com

Lubrizol Life Science............................19 .......www.carst.co.za / www.lubrizol.com/beauty

MGSA Projects........................................ 5........www.mgsaprojects.co.za Microsep..................................................21........www.microsep.co.za

CJP Chemicals .......................................33........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals................. 41........www.savannah.co.za

Clomark...................................................... 7........www.clomark.com

Sensetek..................................................27........www.sensetek.co.za

Designa Plastics...................................29........www.designaplastics.co.za

Siyakha Imperial Printing Co............30........www.labelprint.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Lab................23........www.hersol.co.za

Symrise SA..............................................39........www.symrise.com

IMCD SA................................................OFC........www.imcdgroup.com

Vantage Specialty Chemicals...........37........www.solabia.com

JANUARY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

Lift your warehouse performance to new heights The strengths of EKS medium/high-level order pickers.

Impressive lift and picking heights, for maximum performance and warehouse utilisation.

Individual, performance enhancing options, to suit your specific requirements.

Maximum picking performance with minimal energy consumption.

Maximum comfort thanks to user-friendly operating concepts.

Perfect interplay between man and machine.

Powerful lithium-ion technology or tried-and-tested lead-acid battery for optimum energy efficiency.

The versatile EKS medium/high-level order pickers from Jungheinrich enable for perfect interplay between man and machine. Outstanding performance, intelligent assistance systems and digital integration in your warehouse environment ensure utmost efficiency and maximum picking performance.

0800 984 001

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2021

Articles inside

SAAFFI helps industry navigate revisions to IFRA Standards

Biological deodorant – a new concept in personal care

The challenge of balancing the microbiota

Designa – a specialist in plastic

COVID-19 vaccines and the last mile

LabX software for data integrity in pharma labs

Conscious makeup designed for green consumers

An enchanting world tour of colour trends