Clean beauty UV protection

Today, the need for products that combine wellness, safety and sustainability all in one are more important than ever. Aprinnova, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, now offers mineral sunscreen dispersions for clean beauty sun care products with its new Neossance CleanScreen range of dispersions.

The clean beauty trend is no different when it comes to sun care. As with all personal care and cosmetic products, consumers are paying closer attention to label claims and ingredients. Consumers want sustainable sunscreen products formulated with effective ingredients –the adage ‘less is more’, is highly relevant.

It’s said there is also a lot of confusion among consumers around the distinction between mineral and chemical formulas. Physical sunscreen ingredients, including the minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, block and scatter UV rays before they penetrate the skin. Chemical sunscreen ingredients, like avobenzone and octisalate, absorb the UVrays before they can damage skin.

The mineral versus chemical debate is ongoing and has seen suppliers of ingredients place increased emphasis on developing naturally-derived ingredients for UV protection. Trends in the sun care category also show that mineral sunscreens are soaring in popularity. Not only are these formulas reef-safe, but they also tend to be gentler on skin.

Neossance CleanScreen mineral sunscreen dispersions from Aprinnova help formulators create high performing, anti-aging skin care and colour cosmetics while adhering to the standards of clean beauty. These dispersions of high solids offer significant broad-spectrum performance, which support anti-aging skincare claims.

THE ADVANTAGES OF CLEANSCREEN:

• anti-ageing benefits

• UVB and UVA protection

• high solids content

• non-whitening

• even coverage

• formulation flexibility.

Unlike other UV dispersions, CleanScreen disperses particles in a natural and sustainable carrier system of Neossance Hemisqualane, which delivers products with great sensorial properties and aesthetic benefits such as non-whitening. The high solids composition gives formulator flexibility without sacrificing on the performance desired by consumers.

CLEAN, TRANSPARENT AND SUSTAINABLE

According to Aprinnova, mineral sunscreens have gained popularity because of their efficacy in UV attenuation, particularly in the UVA region of the spectrum. In February 2019, the FDA published a proposed rule stating that 12 commonly accepted chemical sunscreen agents are not considered GRASand require additional data to demonstrate safety and effectiveness. ZnO and TiO2 are now the only category 1 sunscreens.

Meanwhile, consumers are demanding high performance, transparency of supply chains, sustainable chemical practices and, above all, product safety. In short, Aprinnovasays consumers want the clean beauty UV protection Neossance CleanScreen offers.CleanScreen dispersions are ideal for masstige and premium sun care products such as facial sunscreens with anti ageing benefits and sustainable UVA/UVB protection features. Unlike other dispersions, they contain Neossance Hemisqualane which has proven performance for even coverage in colour cosmetics which is comparable to D5.In sun care, it delivers similar benefits to D5, such as the even distribution of UV filters to reduce gaps in protection while minimising whitening.

CleanScreen blocks wavelengths from 280nm to 400nm for UVA and UVB protection, while allowing visible light transmission. It’s great for modern sunscreen products too such as sun sticks and sun milks. High protection sun sticks offer increased convenience in terms of the application and can be packed with additional benefits, such as a smooth, soft glide with even coverage upon application. Have a look at Table 1 for formulation inspiration for SPF 50 mineral sun stick designed with clean beauty in mind.

DELIVERING A NEW STANDARD

Today, cosmetic formulators are increasingly challenged to address social responsibility needs while simultaneously meeting the traditional requirements of performance and cost. Incremental improvements in the sustainability profile of raw materials meet the desire of consumers to buy responsibly and enable brands to achieve their CSR targets.

Aprinnova’s Neossance ingredients support cruelty-free, natural, and ethical claims backed by genuine impact. The company is a leading manufacturer of high performance, natural and sustainable emollients and silicone replacements derived from sugarcane. Its Neossance brand Squalane and Hemisqualane ingredients are used by many of the fastest growing skin care brands in the world.

Aprinnova leverages cutting-edge biotechnology manufacturing capabilities and 70 years of cosmetics industry expertise to deliver a new standard that makes sustainability a competitive advantage. The company says its just one way a brand can ‘go clean’. It hopes to work across the global industry to support beauty that’s good for the consumer and great for the planet. •

Aprinnova – www.aprinnova.com

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za