Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review July 2020

Page 16

SUN CARE

Clean beauty UV protection Today, the need for products that combine wellness, safety and sustainability all in one are more important than ever. Aprinnova, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, now offers mineral sunscreen dispersions for clean beauty sun care products with its new Neossance CleanScreen range of dispersions.

T

he clean beauty trend is no different when it comes to sun care. As with all personal care and cosmetic products, consumers are paying closer attention to label claims and ingredients. Consumers want sustainable sunscreen products formulated with effective ingredients – the adage ‘less is more’, is highly relevant. It’s said there is also a lot of confusion among consumers around the distinction between mineral and chemical formulas. Physical sunscreen ingredients, including the minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, block and scatter UV rays before they penetrate the skin. Chemical sunscreen ingredients, like avobenzone and octisalate, absorb the UV rays before they can damage skin. The mineral versus chemical debate is ongoing and has seen suppliers of

ingredients place increased emphasis on developing naturally-derived ingredients for UV protection. Trends in the sun care category also show that mineral sunscreens are soaring in popularity. Not only are these formulas reef-safe, but they also tend to be gentler on skin.

spectrum performance, which supports anti-ageing skin care claims. Unlike other UV dispersions, CleanScreen disperses particles in a natural and sustainable carrier system of Neossance Hemisqualane, which delivers products with great sensorial properties and aesthetic

Neossance CleanScreen mineral sunscreen dispersions from Aprinnova help formulators create high performing, anti-ageing skin care and colour cosmetics while adhering to the standards of clean beauty. These dispersions of high solids offer significant broad-

benefits such as non-whitening. The high solids composition gives formulators flexibility without sacrificing on the performance desired by consumers.

THE ADVANTAGES OF CLEANSCREEN: • anti-ageing benefits • UVB and UVA protection • high solids content • non-whitening • even coverage • formulation flexibility.

Table 1: Mineral sun stick SPF 50 Phase

Ingredient

A

Neossance Hemisqualane

B

C

16

INCI

%

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

5.00

Butyloctyl Salicylate

8.00

C13-15 Alkane

19.00

Microcrystalline wax

0.50

Polyethylene

3.00

Ceresin

8.00

Neossance CleanScreen Z80

Zinc Oxide & C13-15 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate & Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Neossance CleanScreen T65

Titanium Dioxide & C13-15 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate & Silica & Triethoxycaprylylsilane

5.00

Diisostearyl Malate

2.50

Silica

17.00

JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

32.00

CLEAN, TRANSPARENT AND SUSTAINABLE According to Aprinnova, mineral sunscreens have gained popularity because of their efficacy in UV attenuation, particularly in the UVA region of the spectrum. In February 2019, the FDA published a proposed rule stating that 12 commonly accepted chemical sunscreen agents are not considered GRAS and require additional data to demonstrate safety and effectiveness. ZnO and TiO2 are now the only category 1 sunscreens. Meanwhile, consumers are demanding high performance, transparency of supply chains, sustainable chemical practices and, above all, product safety. In short, Aprinnova says consumers want the clean beauty UV protection Neossance CleanScreen offers. CleanScreen dispersions are ideal for masstige and premium sun care products such as facial sunscreens with antiageing benefits and sustainable UVA/UVB protection features. Unlike other dispersions, they contain Neossance Hemisqualane which has proven performance for even coverage in colour cosmetics which is comparable to D5. In sun care, it delivers similar benefits to D5, such as the even distribution of UV filters to reduce gaps in protection while minimising whitening. CleanScreen blocks wavelengths from 280nm to 400nm for UVA and UVB protection, while allowing visible light transmission. It’s great for modern


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