review Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic
July 2020
Volume 47 | Number 7
47
years
www.pharmacos.co.za
Start your journey
to sustainability
with 70% biodegradable packaging for cosmetics CLEANER SUN CARE It’s time for an eco-friendlier narrative
In-mould label jar
PHARMA FOCUS Down-scheduling kickstarts CBD industry boom COLOUR COSMETICS Eyeing the potential of new makeup trends
70%
biodegradable packaging
Make quality and regulatory compliance a breeze.
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Find the quality and regulatory information you need with a document library, filing assistance and global or country-specific compliance support. Fulfill your compliance needs quickly with RegXcellence™. Find more information about BASF’s newly launched Virtual Pharma Assistants. Your can now register for free on https://info-mypharma.basf.com
July 2020
Contents
Volume 47 | Number 7 www.pharmacos.co.za
40 Case Study Fette Compacting and Hisun Pharmaceutical achieve the impossible
42 Colour Cosmetics Merck inspires beauty brands to accentuate the eyes Seppic launches new beauty trilogy trend concept Quantum Colours explores the latest trends
40
46 Preservatives & Antimicrobials Antimicrobial protection in times of increasing demand
48 Association News
16 6 News
16 Sun Care
Sunjin appoints Botanichem as its local agent
Savannah markets clean beauty UV protection
Croda launches ultra-colour travel effect pigments
New SPF booster from Dow
In-cosmetics Global postponed to 2021 Robopac donates stretchwrapping machines
10 Product News What’s new in South Africa
12 Industry Talk
Andre Burger presents a Coschem webinar on collagen
31
SAVA awards the vinyl-dot to 21 members
31 Pharma Focus: CAMs & Health Supplements CBD down-scheduled to an SO product in SA
Eco-friendly sun protection from Symrise
14
Sanobiotec homes in on minor cannabinoids
Analyse the environmental impact of sunscreens
Symrise produces synthetic CBD from orange peels
Achieve blue light protection with Carotolino
Werksmans Attorneys unpacks the new cannabis rules
Why mineral UV photostabilisation is important
Label Smart meets the labelling needs of Grow Indoors
Natural film-forming polymer from Nouryon
Christo Coetzee Attorneys looks at debt collection during COVID-19
Cannabis legalisation – a double-edged sword
29 Packaging Profiles Beautiful aluminium bottles from Tournaire New IML jar from Teqal is a world first
On the cover
New 70% biodegradable packaging from Teqal
"We understand that sustainability is a journey, which is why Teqal wants to be part of the solution" WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
3
FROM THE EDITOR
A new chapter in our story T his is an exciting month for the Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review team as we’re introducing our new look. We’ve gone through some radical changes reflected in our masthead and in the fonts and graphic elements within the magazine. These developments show our commitment to keeping up with the trends in magazine design while embracing the tools we need to have a stronger digital presence. A massive shout out goes to our art director, David Kyslinger for conceptualising our fantastic new look. We’re also honoured to bring you the scoop on the first biodegradable packaging for the South African cosmetics industry which is developed and produced locally. The launch of the 70% biodegradable Reflections jar by Teqal Creative Packaging (Teqal) marks the start of something truly exciting for local beauty and skin care brands. These jars, produced from bio-based material, as well as Teqal’s new 500mℓ in-mould label jar are featured on our cover this month, and discussed in detail on pages 14 and 30 respectively. Sticking with the theme of sustainability, our bumper feature on sun care conveys a strong message that sun protection cosmetics and sunscreens in general need to incorporate a stronger environmental narrative. Safe and responsible sun protection is more important than ever while mineral sunscreen dispersions are in high demand as a result of their improved sustainability profile and reef-friendly status. There is also a lot of new development around natural and bio-based film-forming polymers to help
formulators meet consumers’ needs for high performance sun protection products, which are neither tacky nor greasy and ensure a pleasant skin feel after product application. You can read about these trends and more on page 16. On page 31, our pharma focus on CAMs and health supplements explores the latest developments to emerge from the recent down-scheduling of CBD by the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority. Within days of the announcement, a host of new CBD products were launched by local pharma manufacturers, which is good news for the CBD trade, cannabis growers and hemp farmers, as well as consumers. We’d love to hear your feedback on our new look – we are very proud of it and want to know that our readers and advertisers love it too. Feel free to share your comments with me on email (abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za). You can also communicate with us through our social media channels including Twitter, Facebook and LinkedIn. Our LinkedIn page is the newest addition to our social channels which you’ll find easily when searching Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review on LinkedIn. Enjoy the read.
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
LAYOUT & DESIGN: David Kyslinger SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit CONTRIBUTORS: Christine van Zyl, Jacques Strydom, Marcel Schnyder, Neil Kirby, Cindy Naidoo, Karen Maier, Lonsdale O’Donovan, Vanessa Lahn, Andre Burger
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Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
P C Review is the official journal of:
EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za
CEO: Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER: Leoné Fouché CEO MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Vivian Frittelli
EDITORIAL
MANAGEMENT TEAM
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
The team
John Knowlton
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
NEWS
exports first locally produced cannabis extract Originally established as a contract
with a strong
manufacturer of complementary
presence in sub-
medicines (CAMs) and health
Saharan Africa.
supplement products in South Africa,
The company has
Afriplex diversified into the cannabis
a fully-integrated
market in 2018.
approach to the cannabis
According to the company, it’s currently the only licenced GMP cannabis
services and manufacturing of cannabis-
manufacturer in South Africa and has
based finished products.
processed the first cannabis from licensed local cultivators which is being exported. Danie Nel, managing director of
It offers a comprehensive range of high-quality cannabis oils and distillates, as well as dosage forms ranging
Afriplex, says: “The first legal extraction
from capsules and tablets to topicals
of cannabis is a huge achievement, not
and teas. It also offers the service of
only for Afriplex but also for South Africa –
designing and the construction of turnkey
which is poised to become a major player
cannabis processing facilities based
in the international cannabis industry.”
on own technologies, which have been
For international investors and companies operating in the medical marijuana field, South Africa as a country of origin poses many benefits. “As new markets open up abroad, we
successfully developed over a 20-year period in the industry. Tim Harris, CEO of Wesgro, adds: “As the official tourism, trade and investment promotion agency for Cape Town and the
will be able to export to any country that
Western Cape, we are excited about this
is legally allowed to import and sell the
new export offering from the province.
products. As demand grows, so will the
Premium, locally-grown medical cannabis
economic development opportunities,
and cannabis products align with the
especially since South Africa offers a safe
Western Cape’s traditional strengths
and stable business environment in sub-
of agriculture, agro-processing and
Saharan Africa and is seen as a gateway
research and development. Afriplex, an
into the rest of Africa,” he adds.
industry leader in South Africa, is playing a
Afriplex is regarded as a leader in the medical cannabis industry in South Africa
6
market, offering processing
significant role in putting the Western Cape cannabis industry on the global map.”
Botanichem welcomes a new agency to the family Sunjin Beauty Science is the latest principal to be added to Botanichem’s portfolio. Based in Korea, Sunjin is a leading ingredient supplier to the cosmetics and chemical industries. It’s been operating for more than 40 years and supplies colour, sun and skin care ingredients and raw materials to some of the world’s leading brands, such as La Prairie, Lancome, Estee Lauder and Boots No. 7. Its product portfolio includes microbeads, including the only COSMOS-approved natural and lipophilic microbead, UV filters, thickeners and emulsifiers. Sunjin uses the latest technologies in the production of its raw materials and ingredients, ensuring that it provides the industry with quality, innovative and unique solutions. The company has its headquarters in Seoul and in June last year, it opened a new state-ofthe-art factory and warehouse in Ansan. “Botanichem is proud and honoured to represent Sunjin in South Africa. The company broadens our product offering and we look forward to introducing customers to Sunjin’s range of products,” says Botanichem’s managing partner, Robyn Brown.
Sunjin’s new production facility and warehouse in Ansan, Korea JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
NEWS
New pigments with exceptional colour changing properties Global speciality chemical company, Croda
with the exceptional colour changing
is delighted to unveil four brand new effect
properties of the colour travel series,
pigments that will form the new ultra-colour
resulting in transformative pigments that
travel series, as part of the Moonshine effect
take inspiration from the digital realm. With
pigment product range.
futuristic, bold colours that are ideal for
Launched in 2018, Croda’s range of quality
creating eye-catching formulations, these
borosilicate-based Moonshine effect pigments
pigments are perfect for indulging in the
have already proven to provide unique and
confident use of colour.
innovative effects with exceptional vibrancy,
The new effect pigments within this series
intensity and colour transmission. They also
have a bulk colour tone (available in red, pink
ensure eye catching results in all types of
and blue), yet reveal multiple colours as light
cosmetic formulations. The range, which
hits them at different angles, producing
showcases interference, single colour, metallic
dynamic colour-shifting effects. The
and colour travel effects, is joined by the new
particle size creates a dazzling ultra-sparkle
and exciting Moonshine effect pigment ultra-
effect, while each of the four pigments
colour travel series.
possess different colour combinations to
These four new pigments combine the striking colour of the ultra-effect series
add prismatic intrigue and holographic appearances to any formulation.
Ecolab offers insight into Annex 1 updates The latest draft of EudraLex Vol. 4, Annex 1 (v.12) features updates to the guidelines following public consultation feedback on the 2017 draft.
A worker wiping a surface in a pharma manufacturing setting
Ecolab has carried out a thorough review to assess the changes relating to cleaning and disinfection and the implications for end users. Specifically, there is still a focus on the clear distinction between cleaning and disinfection and the importance of disinfectant residue removal. Effective product rotation remains important, and the use of sterile disinfectants in Grade C and D areas is now being highlighted as a consideration where quality risk management (QRM) demands it. Validation should demonstrate the effectiveness of disinfectants in the specific manner in which they are used and
should support the in‐use expiry periods of prepared solutions. Ecolab is able to support with guidance on: • appropriate use of a range of product formats, which are sterile and ready‐ to‐use • validation expertise, including the Validex programme • interpretation and implementation of the regulations, providing service excellence from its technical consultants. More information about Ecolab’s products and services in relation to Annex 1 can be found online, at www.ecolablifesciences.com/annex1.
GLOBAL COSMETIC PRODUCT REGULATORY COMPLIANCE SOLUTIONS Intertek provides a comprehensive range of services for beauty and personal care products to ensure quality, safety, efficacy and regulatory compliance. Partnering with Intertek helps brands and producers to speed up their international growth, optimise the quality and safety of their supply chain and reduce total costs. Our Services Include: • Literature Review & Data Collection • Toxicological Profiles of Ingredients • Regulatory Dossiers • Toxicological Safety Assessment • Safety Assessment of Hand Sanitizers
• • • • • •
Labelling Reviews Microbiology & Stability Testing Cosmetic Packaging Analysis Causality Assessment Compliance Solutions Regulatory Support
MORE INFORMATION +44 116 263 9621 hersuk-regtox@intertek.com
intertek.com/cosmetics/ global-reg-compliance-forcosmetic-products/
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
7
NEWS
In-cosmetics Global and other regional events
postponed to 2021 According to a statement released by Reed Exhibitions – organisers of the in-cosmetics events, the incosmetics Global, Latin America and North America 2020 events have been postponed. But In-cosmetics Asia 2020 is going ahead. Speaking about the announcement, Cathy Laporte, portfolio director at Reed Exhibitions, comments: “Over 80% of in-cosmetics Global attendees are international from countries at different stages of the global pandemic and with varying government advice and travel restrictions. We have therefore decided to postpone in-cosmetics Global 2020 to 13 to 15 April 2021. To ensure minimum logistical impact for all participants, we will hold the event in Barcelona (same hall/venue) and not in Milan, as originally scheduled for 2021.” With the COVID-19 pandemic worsening across the Americas, La Porte adds that they do not consider it safe at this stage to organise a face-toface exhibition.
“We are therefore postponing incosmetics Latin America to 22 to 23 September 2021 (same hall/venue) and cancelling our North American event for 2020,” she comments. With the improving COVID-19 situation in Asia, business recovery in the region and the ongoing discussions to re-open borders for business travel, as it stands, Reed Exhibitions does not plan to postpone or cancel the event in Asia. “In-cosmetics Asia will therefore take place on the original dates of 3 to 5 November at BITEC Bangkok, Thailand. We will implement health and safety measures recommended by the WHO and authorities in the region, with your wellbeing remaining at the heart of our decision-making,” she adds. La Porte says: “Whilst we haven’t been able to hold any live events so far this year, our aim is to continue to keep the industry connected at this time. Following the launch of in-cosmetics Connect last month, in-cosmetics Virtual will take place in October 2020. The focus will be on helping worldwide suppliers connect with personal care creators from Europe and the Americas.” For updates and more information, please visit the in-cosmetics events website, www.in-cosmetics.com.
Experience print inspection online Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, EyeC now offers a virtual demo experience. Customers can view the entire product range for artwork and prepress inspection as well as for offline and inline control. The print inspection experts will present various system functionalities and provide insights into different application areas for reliable print inspections. Based on customer samples, individual solutions will be developed. With its comprehensive portfolio, EyeC offers the right solution for every application, whether its folding boxes, labels, package inserts, flexible packaging or tubes. EyeC’s inspection systems ensure the quality and conformity of print files and printed products throughout the entire production process. The systems detect printing errors before they lead to losses. They increase the productivity of existing processes and make a significant contribution to avoid complaints and unnecessary costs. The user-friendly inspection systems check the quality of texts and graphics and automatically detect colour deviations when compared to a reference file. EyeC’s comprehensive inspection solutions are also used for grading 1D and 2D codes, such as barcodes and pharma codes, and automatically check the content, position and height of Braille. With its interactive product demonstrations, EyeC enables a targeted insight into the comprehensive product portfolio despite limited on-site appointments. Interested parties and customers can make personal appointments for a virtual tour or individual web
IMCD grows its pharma relationship with Dupont IMCD, a leading chemicals speciality distributor, and Dupont Health and Nutrition have agreed to expand their distribution partnership in pharmaceutical ingredients to Kenya, Uganda and Egypt. The company has worked with Dupont Health and Nutrition’s cellulosic excipient range for over 50 years, during
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JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
which time it’s established a distribution footprint that spans more than 60 countries in Europe, North and Latin America, and Asia. IMCD Pharmaceuticals business has more than 250 technical sales experts across the globe, with six formulation centres in the Americas, Europe and Asia to support and offer solutions to its customers and partners.
demonstrations in the new EyeC Demo Centre. Send an e-mail to sales@EyeC.de for more information.
In the new demo centre, EyeC presents all inspection solutions virtually
NEWS
Robopac donates stretchwrapping machines to Italian Red Cross
Symrise supports biodiversity research project for lavender farming
The Italian Red Cross, which
Cross,” comments Alfredo
has headquarters in Rome
Aureli of Robopac.
Working in conjunction with Crieppam, the global supplier of fragrances and flavours has launched a joint research project on lavender farming in France which is aimed at crop resilience, improved biodiversity and additional income for farmers. The project commenced in June 2020. For several years, the Crieppam research institute, farmers and Symrise have been working towards increasingly cultivating lavender in a sustainable way. Lavender and Provence form a fragrant pair, whose aromatic tribute to the region in the South of France earned it a reputation of ‘blue gold’ and the fragrance of the region. To improve biodiversity and soil health, farmers use intercropping methods, which benefit the lavender and lavandin fields. The Crieppam and Symrise project, seeks to identify the best intercropping options in lavender farming to improve biodiversity and increase the quality and yields of lavender and lavandin essential oils. At the same, the project will provide valuable additional income for farmers. The inter-crops investigated will range from cereals to aromatic herbs, which grow well in the Mediterranean climate. In addition, the project will
and Avezzano, in the province
The donation includes
of L’Aquila, has received two
two robot S6 PVS stretch
robot stretch-wrapping
wrapping machines,
machines from Robopac.
which represent the top
These robots are being used
of the Robopac machinery
by volunteers to pack and
production range. The choice
ensure the safe and efficient
of S6 robots was determined
handling and transport of
by their characteristics:
all medical equipment and
suitable for products of
other aids distributed to
any shape, size and weight;
communities during the
ergonomic and easy to move;
COVID-19 pandemic.
user friendly thanks to the
“With this donation, we intend to give real help to those who work
colour touch panel; and flexible and reliable. These robots are also
in emergency conditions
totally safe thanks to the
24/7 to support the Italian
robust safety bumper.
citizens exhausted by the
The timely delivery and
pandemic. We are flattered
installation of the two stretch
to be able to give a sign of
wrappers was made possible
closeness and solidarity
by the Teknoimballo 2000
to such a well-deserving
from Aprilia, Robopac’s dealer
institution as the Italian Red
in the area.
One of the robot S6 PVS stretch wrapping machines, which Robopac donated to the Italian Red Cross
C C
Provence, the lavender- cultivating region in the South of France
focus on developing practical agroecological techniques. “We are delighted to be working with Crieppam on this project, which will determine the benefits of intercropping on the health of plants and the quality of lavender and lavandin essential oils,” says Beatrice Favre-Bulle, SVP perfumery excellence and sustainability at Symrise. Bert Candaele, director of Crieppam, adds: “We are happy about the continued support from Symrise. The project will benefit biodiversity and will identify the best inter-crops to bring additional value to farmers, improving livelihoods and benefitting the community in the region.” The project will run for a period of three years with Crieppam reporting annual progress to Symrise.
Christo Coetzee Attorneys We are not just lawyers, we are part of your business and can assist you in the following areas: • Labelling and advertising compliance • Regulatory compliance • Commercial law • Contracts • Litigation
Christine van Zyl: BSc (Hons.) Biochemistry, LLB, Diploma Cosmetic Chemistry
Tel: 012 342 1930 | Email: office@christocoetzeelaw.co.za | Website: www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
9
On the Street New products on our radar
1. CBD stress and pain relief
Adcock Ingram has launched a flagship cannabis-based range, ADCO CBD. The range is formulated with cannabidiol isolate, processed from the cannabis raw plant, in line with the recent Government Gazette, which permits CBD preparations to contain a maximum daily dose of 20mg of CBD. Products include ADCO CBD PAIN, ADCO CBD STRESS and ADCO CBD DAILY. They are laboratory tested, quality controlled and do not contain sugar or tartrazine. The range is available from Clicks, Dis-Chem and independent pharmacies. For more information, visit www.adcocbd.co.za or follow
@adcocbd on Facebook.
2. A scientific approach to shaving
3
Did you know that most shaving-related skin concerns are not caused by the razor but are the result of inadequate skin preparation and post-shave care. Optiphi has formulated a two-step, easy and convenient system to incorporate into a daily shaving routine, to improve the shaving experience and reduce trauma to the skin. The products include a cleanse+shave viscous foaming gel and a post-shave serum for soothing skin
2
protection. Visit www.optiphi.com for more info.
3. Get golden skin from within
A new and exciting addition to the Collagen Lift Paris range, is Collagen Lift Paris Luminous Gold. This one-stop solution to prevent and help remove age spots, promises to reduce wrinkles and increase the skin’s moisture and elasticity. Luminous Gold also protects against sun damage and contains a powerful antioxidant derived from Polypodium leucotomos, which helps to improve skin tone for a brighter look. The hydrolysed collagen in the product helps to prevent wrinkles, while the hyaluronic acid acts as a skin filler. Go to www.collagenliftparis.co.za for pricing and stockist information.
4. Convenient CBD pastilles
Pharma Dynamics has launched a top-quality hemp-based,
4
5
cannabidiol (CBD) product – Cannamics – on the South African market. Cannamics is manufactured in Switzerland and made from the highest quality organically farmed hemp. It’s classified as tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)-free and has been developed under the highest standards of GMP. The bioavailability of Cannamics is between 15% and 25%, which is up to four times higher than other oral delivery systems that produce only a 3% to 6% absorption. Cannamics is available in a pastille format in packs of 24 and 48. Each pastille contains 10mg of CBD and has a pleasant lime flavour. Check out www.cannamics.co.za for more info.
5. The goodness of beetroot
Packed with essential nutrients, beetroot is filled with vitamins,
1
minerals and plant compounds – and is a great source of fibre, folate (vitamin B9), manganese, potassium, iron, and vitamin C. But not everyone is keen on the taste, so NRF Health has introduced all this goodness in a supplement called NRF Beetroot. The supplement helps with improved blood flow, lowers blood pressure and increases exercise performance. NRF Beetroot includes the unique and patented Food Matrix formula, which comprises pure and certified raw ingredients and makes NRF health supplements perfectly balanced and easy to digest. Visit www.nrfhealth.co.za to find out more about this and other NRF health supplements.
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JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
r o P d u ct w e N Competition
2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise
P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry.
The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.
Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.
Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.
INDUSTRY TALK
Debt collection during COVID-19
Many businesses find themselves in the precarious position where they do not have the cashflow to pay their suppliers or, in the case of a supplier, their customers are not paying them. As a supplier, you are entitled to payment for the services or goods you have delivered. The question now is how do you recover all or at least some of the debt owed to you? By Christine van Zyl of Christo Coetzee Attorneys
I
t is no secret that economies around the world are suffering due to the global COVID-19 pandemic. The various lockdown
moveable assets will be attached by the Sheriff and sold at auction to raise the money necessary to settle the debt.
THE INS AND OUTS OF LIQUIDATION
measures taken by countries have had a tremendous impact on small, medium and large businesses, whether these companies conduct business locally or internationally. There are different legal remedies available to you to help recover debts incurred by your customers. In the same sense, as a customer, you have an obligation to pay your suppliers and if you owe money to your suppliers you need to understand the legal remedies that your suppliers may use, in order to attempt to find an amicable solution for all parties involved.
MEDIATION IS KEY As these are trying times for all companies, we recommend you approach a legal practitioner, who will assist you in discussions with your debtors and/or creditors. As mediators, we help you to initiate these discussions and ensure that such discussions reach a fruitful conclusion, helping the parties negotiate a payment plan, either in instalments or for future payment through an acknowledgement of debt. This type of approach will likely render the best results, allowing the company to build its cashflow thereby ensuring that any debts are settled in full, with the added benefit of retaining the important relationships you have built with your suppliers and customers. Once the parties have reached an amicable agreement to settle the debt, such agreement is encapsulated in a contract,
12
JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
"As a customer, you have an obligation to pay your suppliers" ensuring that there is no misunderstanding between the parties. Should an amicable approach have failed or not be viable, you may enter into litigation against the debtor. The process is usually initiated by a letter of demand, followed by the issuing of summons for the payment of the debt. Once an order is granted in your favour, a warrant of execution can be issued. The Sheriff will approach the debtor and request that the debt be settled, should the debtor not be able to settle the debt,
In the event that the Sheriff does not raise a sufficient amount to settle the debt or did not find disposable property that would be sufficient to satisfy the debt, you may apply to the court to have the company liquidated. Liquidation proceedings may also be a remedy of first instance, if you suspect that the company is trading in insolvent circumstances and you can either convince the court that the company is unable to pay its debts or you have demanded payment and no payment or compromise has been received within three weeks. A liquidation application should be carefully considered as various factors need to be taken into account, such as whether your claim is secured or unsecured and whether there is a chance that you would need to contribute toward the costs of the liquidation proceedings. Liquidation applications are the most radical step in debt collection, because it may ultimately result in the winding-up of a company. It is an unfortunate reality that, in our current economic climate, your company may be faced with some form of debt collection, whether you are initiating debt collection or are on the receiving end. Christo Coetzee Attorneys is able to assist you through this difficult time and can provide you with legal advice that is customised to your needs. • Turn to page 9, for more information. Christo Coetzee Attorneys – www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za
What’s on in 2020
ood f
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COMPANY FOCUS
A new wave of sustainable packaging for SA’s cosmetics industry
The move to sustainable packaging will be revolutionary for the South African cosmetics industry, but it won’t happen overnight. Teqal is ready to start premium face care brands on this journey with the first biodegradable packaging developed and produced locally. By Abby Vorster
"We understand that sustainability is a journey, which is why Teqal wants to be part of the solution"
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A
ccording to international reports, almost 300 million tons of plastic are being produced worldwide, every year. While a lot of this plastic is necessary to make useful things that last, all too often, the plastic we use ends up in the wrong places – in oceans and landfill sites. Although a major global movement, sustainable packaging has continued to be out of reach of the South African cosmetics industry. Before now, the research, development and commercialisation of environmentallyresponsible packaging for cosmetics occurred internationally, resulting in expensive packaging that just wasn’t right for the local market. This is why the launch of the biodegradable Reflections
COMPANY FOCUS
Did you know?
jar by Teqal Creative Packaging (Teqal) marks the start of something truly exciting for local beauty and skin care brands, particularly those that are quality-driven and which have a genuine commitment to sustainability. Based in KwaZulu-Natal, Teqal produces quality packaging for the cosmetics, personal care and industrial markets. Its manufacturing plant is situated at the Dube TradePort, adjacent to King Shaka International Airport, and houses some of the most energy- and production-efficient servo-driven packaging machinery available worldwide. Teqal’s strengths include the strategic registration of functional and technical designs and patents, along with in-house high-end packaging, tool-making and design experience – all of which are vital in generating value in the personal care and cosmetics industry.
A FIRST FOR SOUTH AFRICA
Teqal is no stranger to innovation. In 2019, the packaging producer received its first Gold Pack Award for its original Reflections jar, which Teqal entered in the Health, Beauty, Medical & Pharmaceutical Packaging category. Organised by the Institute of Packaging of South Africa, the Gold Pack Awards are recognised as the South African showcase for the packaging industry. print is achievable on these jars which does not affect their biodegradability.” Kirkham says the bio-based material used to produce the external components is Seedling-certified. This is an independent third-party certification that verifies the compostability of a product in an industrial composting plant, according to the European standard EN 13432. If these components end up in the ocean, landfill, or are placed in soil, they will fully biodegrade and will not leave any microplastics behind. Biodegradation refers to a biological process where naturally occurring micro-organisms digest material
Teqal’s biodegradable Reflections jar, which is a first for South Africa, is 70% biodegradable and 100% recyclable. Sean Kirkham, sales and marketing
A GLOBAL FIRST THAT’S MADE IN SA
director of Teqal, explains: “We’ve launched this as a stepping stone into the future of sustainability for the South African cosmetics industry. The external components of the jar are biodegradable, while all the critical jar components are produced using HDPE. Our approach is strategic, mainly because the critical jar components that house the actual product are already stability tested for creams. So a brand that’s already packaging a face care product in HDPE could comfortably move it to the new 70% biodegradable jar without any risk. Furthermore, a beautiful high-quality
Teqal has introduced a 500mℓ lightweight circular jar with a full wraparound inmould label (IML). The jar is fully recyclable, as it’s made up of a combination of polypropylene and ink, and the technology used to produce the jar is patented. The packaging, which is perfect for personal care products, has the premium look of a shrinksleeve label and is fully covered, yet the cost per unit is reduced as in-mould labelling is far more cost-effective. Turn to page 30, to read more about the launch of this new jar.
into water, carbon dioxide and biomass. Biodegradable polymers, like the one used for Teqal’s biodegradable Reflections jar, can be either bio-based or fossil-based. In this case, the biodegradable polymer is plant-based and sustainably-sourced from industrial wood applications, using sustainable forestry.
A PERFECT PLACE TO START The biodegradable Reflections jar is a promising solution for premium face care brands to start their sustainability journey. “The next step is to introduce 100% biodegradable packaging by moulding the internal components in the biodegradable polymer. This would have to be done in conjunction with a brand that is fully invested in the end goal, as stability- and compatibility-testing are crucial to ensure their product’s success in the market when packaged in a fully biodegradable jar,” says Kirkham. “We understand that sustainability is a journey, which is why Teqal wants to be part of the solution to ensure that local brands focused on enhancing their environmental narrative have access to quality resources to reach their sustainability destination.” As an owner-managed business with people who care about the planet, Teqal is always looking at ways to minimise any impact its operations might have on the environment. From investing in solar panels to energy-efficient servo-driven equipment, the company will continue to embrace sustainability for a flourishing and eco-friendlier cosmetics industry in South Africa. • Teqal Creative Packaging – www.teqal.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
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SUN CARE
Clean beauty UV protection Today, the need for products that combine wellness, safety and sustainability all in one are more important than ever. Aprinnova, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, now offers mineral sunscreen dispersions for clean beauty sun care products with its new Neossance CleanScreen range of dispersions.
T
he clean beauty trend is no different when it comes to sun care. As with all personal care and cosmetic products, consumers are paying closer attention to label claims and ingredients. Consumers want sustainable sunscreen products formulated with effective ingredients – the adage ‘less is more’, is highly relevant. It’s said there is also a lot of confusion among consumers around the distinction between mineral and chemical formulas. Physical sunscreen ingredients, including the minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, block and scatter UV rays before they penetrate the skin. Chemical sunscreen ingredients, like avobenzone and octisalate, absorb the UV rays before they can damage skin. The mineral versus chemical debate is ongoing and has seen suppliers of
ingredients place increased emphasis on developing naturally-derived ingredients for UV protection. Trends in the sun care category also show that mineral sunscreens are soaring in popularity. Not only are these formulas reef-safe, but they also tend to be gentler on skin.
spectrum performance, which supports anti-ageing skin care claims. Unlike other UV dispersions, CleanScreen disperses particles in a natural and sustainable carrier system of Neossance Hemisqualane, which delivers products with great sensorial properties and aesthetic
Neossance CleanScreen mineral sunscreen dispersions from Aprinnova help formulators create high performing, anti-ageing skin care and colour cosmetics while adhering to the standards of clean beauty. These dispersions of high solids offer significant broad-
benefits such as non-whitening. The high solids composition gives formulators flexibility without sacrificing on the performance desired by consumers.
THE ADVANTAGES OF CLEANSCREEN: • anti-ageing benefits • UVB and UVA protection • high solids content • non-whitening • even coverage • formulation flexibility.
Table 1: Mineral sun stick SPF 50 Phase
Ingredient
A
Neossance Hemisqualane
B
C
16
INCI
%
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
5.00
Butyloctyl Salicylate
8.00
C13-15 Alkane
19.00
Microcrystalline wax
0.50
Polyethylene
3.00
Ceresin
8.00
Neossance CleanScreen Z80
Zinc Oxide & C13-15 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate & Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Neossance CleanScreen T65
Titanium Dioxide & C13-15 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate & Silica & Triethoxycaprylylsilane
5.00
Diisostearyl Malate
2.50
Silica
17.00
JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
32.00
CLEAN, TRANSPARENT AND SUSTAINABLE According to Aprinnova, mineral sunscreens have gained popularity because of their efficacy in UV attenuation, particularly in the UVA region of the spectrum. In February 2019, the FDA published a proposed rule stating that 12 commonly accepted chemical sunscreen agents are not considered GRAS and require additional data to demonstrate safety and effectiveness. ZnO and TiO2 are now the only category 1 sunscreens. Meanwhile, consumers are demanding high performance, transparency of supply chains, sustainable chemical practices and, above all, product safety. In short, Aprinnova says consumers want the clean beauty UV protection Neossance CleanScreen offers. CleanScreen dispersions are ideal for masstige and premium sun care products such as facial sunscreens with antiageing benefits and sustainable UVA/UVB protection features. Unlike other dispersions, they contain Neossance Hemisqualane which has proven performance for even coverage in colour cosmetics which is comparable to D5. In sun care, it delivers similar benefits to D5, such as the even distribution of UV filters to reduce gaps in protection while minimising whitening. CleanScreen blocks wavelengths from 280nm to 400nm for UVA and UVB protection, while allowing visible light transmission. It’s great for modern
SUN CARE
sunscreen products too such as sun sticks and sun milks. High protection sun sticks offer increased convenience in terms of the application and can be packed with additional benefits, such as a smooth, soft glide with even coverage upon application. Have a look at Table 1 for formulation inspiration for a SPF 50 mineral sun stick designed with clean beauty in mind.
DELIVERING A NEW STANDARD Today, cosmetic formulators are increasingly challenged to address social responsibility needs while simultaneously meeting the traditional requirements of performance and cost. Incremental improvements in the sustainability profile of raw materials meet the desire of consumers to buy responsibly
Did you know? The Neossance Hemisqualane carrier system is derived from renewable Brazilian sugar cane sources. Waste streams from the process are valorised to generate energy and fertilizer, which contribute to the circular economy. Supply chains are robust, transparent, and drive local economies.
and enable brands to achieve their CSR targets. Aprinnova’s Neossance ingredients support crueltyfree, natural, and ethical claims backed by genuine impact. The company is a leading manufacturer of high performance, natural and sustainable emollients and silicone replacements derived from sugarcane. Its Neossance brand Squalane and Hemisqualane ingredients are used by many of the fastest growing skin care brands in the world. Aprinnova leverages cutting-edge biotechnology manufacturing capabilities and 70 years of cosmetics industry expertise to deliver a new standard that makes sustainability a competitive advantage. The company says its just one way a brand can ‘go clean’. It hopes to work across the global industry to support beauty that’s good for the consumer and great for the planet. •
"Aprinnova’s Neossance ingredients support cruelty-free, natural, and ethical claims backed by genuine impact" Aprinnova – www.aprinnova.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART
RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE – QUALITY DRIVEN
From basic ingredients to specialty actives for key application areas Sun Care | Skin Care | Hair Care | Baby Care | Hygiene | Oral Care Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 551 5353
Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za
www.savannah.co.za
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SUN CARE
Ramp up summer beauty with
safe and responsible sun protection Sunscreens are a hot topic at the moment, with brands having to formulate new products for the summer season. Yet formulators are left perplexed by the uncertainty around the negative impacts of UV filters on humans and the environment. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, highlights the benefits of sunscreens, reviews some of the concerns and offers a solution to formulators and brands.
I
t has been known for many years that overexposure to the sun’s ultraviolet radiation not only causes premature skin ageing, but also plays a vital role in the development of certain types of skin cancers. UV radiation is a proven cause of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), which often appear on sun-exposed areas of skin. Furthermore, the level of UV exposure that typically leads to sunburn has been proven to play a strong role in developing melanoma, the most dangerous of the three most common types of skin cancer. It is for this reason that authorities and cancer foundations have been advising the public to use high SPF sunscreens when going to the beach or on hikes where long exposure to the sun is to be expected. However, there is another side to the sunscreen coin. This is the uncertainty regarding the potential effects of long-term sunscreen usage on the human biology.
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Sunscreens can be either organic or inorganic and the ones that are under scrutiny are the organic, lipophilic sunscreens, like octocrylene, which protect the skin by absorbing UVA and UVB energy. Researchers are concerned about the considerable bioavailability of organic UV filters due to their absorption into the skin
"Any conversation on sunscreen must start with acknowledging that there is robust evidence that it prevents skin cancer"
as well as the uncertain role they might play in endocrine disruption. Furthermore, researchers and environmentalists are concerned about the effects that consumer chemicals may have on marine life in particular, which has also warranted studies on the role organic sunscreens may play in this regard. Much of this evidence is based on small-scale laboratory observations or small groups of human participants, but certainly raises uncertainty in the industry and for consumers.
BOOSTING PROTECTION PERFORMANCE According to Richard Weller, honorary consultant dermatologist at the University of Edinburgh: “any conversation on sunscreen must start with acknowledging that there is robust evidence that it prevents skin cancer”. Perhaps we can start by optimising the use of sunscreens, so that less sun filters are used in a formulation to achieve high sun protection efficacy. One way of
accomplishing this is to use SPF boosters, which typically enhance the ability of a sun filter to absorb UV radiation through mechanisms of homogenous dispersion of UV filters or a light scattering mechanism, which increases the probability of the UV ray being absorbed by the sun filter.
SUN CARE
0.97
supports market demand for natural
natural origin index ISO 16128
formulations
delivers various benefits including
SUNSPHERES BIO SPF BOOSTER Dow offers a solution that addresses the abovementioned concerns, called SunSpheres Bio SPF booster. This material is a high performing, naturally derived and readily biodegradable SPF booster, which demonstrates SPFboosting performance at use levels as low as 1% and up to 3%. With an attractive INCI name of Microcrystalline Cellulose, this material brings something novel to the sun care market as it’s not only sustainable, but also highly efficacious. This has been validated in in vitro and in vivo SPF studies. Meant to be used with organic or inorganic UV filters, SunSpheres Bio SPF booster is a versatile, multifunctional ingredient that delivers stabilising, thickening and shear thinning properties in your formulations. This means the material provides SPF boosting with the added benefit of viscosity enhancement. Ultimately, it’s use could result in a reduction of rheology modifiers in your existing formulation coupled with a reduction in UV filters to achieve the same SPF as before.
thickening and shear thinning
FSC
SUNSPHERES BIO SPF BOOSTER FOR EFFICIENT SUN CARE FORMULATIONS: • bio-derived SPF booster from FSCcertified wood pulp • 97% natural content (ISO 16128) • readily biodegradable • safe for the oceans • for use with organic and inorganic UV filters • recommended use level of 1% to 3% • validated performance — SPF in vitro and in vivo tested
• exhibits stabilising, thickening and shear thinning properties • listed in catalogue of cosmetic ingredients in China • INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose.
wood pulp-based ingredient
IMPRESSIVE TEST RESULTS The results of the in vivo test on SunSpheres Bio SPF booster in an o/w sunscreen formulation that contained organic UV filters, showed 1.5% of the material roughly increased the formulation’s SPF score by 50%, which is extremely impressive. When paired with a film former like Epitex 99 from Dow, an amazing sunscreen formulation can be attained with non-tacky and non-greasy aesthetics. The job of the film former is to turn the o/w formulation into one that repels water and sweat. It also makes the formulation last much longer on the skin, for extended protection and less reapplication of the sunscreen. • AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com
® and ™ are trademarks of The Dow Chemical Company © 2020
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SUN CARE
Formulate sun protection cosmetics with a strong environmental narrative Originally focused on UV radiation defence, today light protection has evolved beyond the primary focus of beach and holiday products. This evolution has seen the sun care category being revamped to include finished products with a strong environmental narrative, and which promise to protect skin from the negative effects of infra-red and even visible and blue light.
S
ymrise has been pioneering skin protection for over 80 years. As a result, the company offers a broad portfolio of ingredients to meet consumers’ changing needs for sun and light protection. While providing the best possible protection will always be the central goal of sun care offerings, Symrise recognises that consumers are increasingly demanding more from the products they use. By harnessing the power of its cross-divisional capabilities, the company can also offer the most appealing scents and enjoyable cosmetic textures for use in designing next level sun protection products. Its regional application laboratories provide support to customers, both in South Africa and
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worldwide, in the formulation of sun care products that meet local market needs.
BROAD-SPECTRUM ABSORBER BLEND Symrise’s Neo Heliopan range of sun protection materials comprises solutions for UVA, UVB and broad-spectrum protection, enabling the company to provide impactful solutions across various market demands. The newest product in this range is the highly-effective broad-spectrum absorber blend, Neo Heliopan Flat. It delivers a relatively flat, uniform absorbance of light in the range of 300nm to 360nm. Neo Heliopan Flat is liquid and therefore easy to handle and dose. It can be used in a wide range of applications from lotions and creams to sprays, oils and
balms. The technology also reduces manufacturing complexities, making it suitable for all processes and emulsions, namely hot/ hot, hot/cold, cold/cold and all-in-one pot manufacturing. A formulation inspiration for an SPF 50+ sunscreen lotion is included in Table 1.
NEW STANDARDS FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Sustainable sunscreen formulations are also a key area of focus for Symrise. With SymEffect Sun, the company is setting new standards for sustainability in sun protection cosmetics. Cosmetics manufacturers are faced with the challenge of having to develop modern sunscreen products, which are not only highly effective but also meet the increasing sustainability requirements of consumers. Many consumers want responsibly sourced, eco-friendly ingredients as alternatives to traditional raw materials. But the formulation Did you know? performance, stability and • 84% of consumers say it’s important sensorial attributes still need to protect from UV rays and daylight to be similar to products even if the sun isn’t shining. designed with traditional • 55% of consumers reapply their sun protection every two hours as ingredients. recommended to stay protected. As this conundrum is also • 80% of consumers believe wrinkles applicable to sun protection can be avoided by efficient sun protection. products, Symrise has Source: CMI Data Source, Symrise Cosmetic succeeded in overcoming the Ingredients consumer database challenge with the functional ingredient SymEffect Sun. So innovative, it received first prize in the Functionals category at the BSB Innovation Awards 2020, which were presented virtually. This recognition underscores Symrise’s role as an industry
SUN CARE
leader in innovation and strengthens its strategy of promoting sustainability as an integral part of its business model.
Table 1: Sunscreen Lotion, exp. SPF 50+ Phase A
BASED ON RENEWABLE SOURCES “SymEffect Sun takes a decisive step towards more sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics. The ingredient is based entirely on renewable raw materials from responsible sources,” says Lars Jung, senior global product manager functionals at Symrise. “Winning first place motivates us to continue to set high goals for ourselves and to work on innovative products whose environmental impact is kept as low as possible.”
"SymEffect Sun takes a decisive step towards more sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics"
B
Ingredient
INCI
%
Water
Aqua
43.6
SymOcide PH
Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Aqua
1.4
Hydrolite 5 green
Pentylene Glycol
2.0
Edeta BD
Disodium EDTA
0.1
Avicel PC 611
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum
0.8
Bentone EW
HECTORITE
0.8
Neo Heliopan Flat
Homosalate, Octocrylene, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate
30.0
SymEffect Varytex
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Triisononanoin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearyl Caprylate
20.0
Cosphaderm X Soft
Xanthan Gum
0.3
Fragrance
Parfum
1.0
This functional ingredient pursues a 360° approach, offering a holistic way to meet the multiple challenges of modern sunscreen products. It comes from natural sources, increases the efficiency of the UV filters and improves formulation stability. It also
significantly improves water resistance and ensures a pleasant skin feeling after application of a sun protection product. • Symrise – www.symrise.com
Sun Protection
A DEEPER KNOWLEDGE
Discover our broad portfolio of ingredients that deliver protection from UVA, UVB, infrared and even visible light. Efficient solutions that set a new standard in consumer safety and skin care, paired with advanced formulation expertise for the most enjoyable cosmetic textures.
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci
AZ_SunProtection_130x177.indd 2
23.06.20 15:16
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SUN CARE
How to analyse the
environmental impact of sunscreens
Environmental awareness continues to grow and is now even a driver of the sun care category. It increasingly determines the choices of today’s consumers, which is why it’s important to develop more sustainable solutions for sun care. By Marcel Schnyder, head of BASF’s global technical centre for sun care
M
ore and more people are willing are safe and what is the impact on the to adapt their consumption environment when all the ingredients are put behaviour with regard to the together to make a formulation? environmental consequences of the products they use. This also applies to cosmetics. NEW MATRIX EVALUATION SYSTEM As part of this development, the potential Until recently, no transparent or scientifically impact sunscreens may have on various sound system to rank and potentially ecosystems has received a great deal of improve the environmental impact of a attention, especially the given formulation has been available wellbeing of corals and on the market. As a global market BASF’s EcoSun Pass label coral reefs. The adverse leader in sun care ingredients, effects of sunscreen BASF has developed a ingredients on matrix evaluation system these underwater to measure the impact of eco-systems, sunscreen components on marine life, the environment. endocrine The EcoSun Pass from disruption and BASF Care Creations is bioaccumulation a methodology to assess have reached a high the environmental impact of level of awareness and are widely discussed in the Did you know? media. We expect this trend to The EcoSun Pass was recently awarded continue or even accelerate and it’s highly the BSB Innovation Prize 2020 in the category Concepts. An initial group of likely that the demand for eco-friendly sun customers are also using BASF’s EcoSun protection products will rise significantly in Pass as a marketing tool, displaying the future. the EcoSun Pass label on their sun care As a result, the personal care industry is packaging as a verification symbol. Visit www.carecreations.basf.com/ecosun-pass being asked to find solutions. Additionally, for more info. consumers are asking which ingredients
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UV filters used in sunscreen formulations. Using a completely new approach, it allows for the holistic and transparent assessment of UV filters with regard to their environmental impact based on internationally recognised criteria. It not only considers environmental factors for individual UV filters, but also provides a comprehensive environmental evaluation of the entire filter system within a sunscreen product. This comprises eight different parameters, including the acute and chronic aquatic toxicity of a substance, e.g. the intrinsic capability of a substance to cause damage to aquatic organisms after short- or long-term exposure.
RATING AND RANKING SUBSTANCES The bioaccumulation potential of a substance is assessed using a twostep approach with the octanol/water partitioning coefficient (log POW) as an initial screening criterion, followed by more profound data (i.e. bioaccumulation studies). Another aspect, which is part of the assessment of our EcoSun Pass, is the biodegradation of a substance, e.g. the breaking down of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, and how quickly this happens.
SUN CARE
The endocrine-related impact of a substance or indication that it may disrupt the hormone systems of organisms are also evaluated and form part of the assessment. Moreover, the EcoSun Pass considers the effects of a substance on terrestrial flora and fauna as well as the damage it may cause to sediment-dwelling organisms. A specific environmental ranking is assigned to each substance and all ecoranked substances in a given formulation are then rated on an open-ended scale. We created an algorithm to calculate the effect of a sunscreen formulation on the environment which takes the eight parameters into account for each UV filter. The EcoSun Pass value for any given formulation is normalised for its sun protection factor. This basically prevents sunscreens from being rated ‘poor’ because of their high efficacy and filter concentration. Therefore, the higher the EcoSun Pass value for a formulation, the more environmentally friendly it is. The assessment of these different aspects of environmental impact provides customers with a comprehensive evaluation of their filter systems, allowing formulators to develop sunscreens with the highest degree of environmental compatibility without compromising on performance.
AN INDEPENDENT SOLUTION The EcoSun Pass can already be used in the early development phase of a sunscreen product, allowing the eco-friendliest product to be brought to market. BASF’s goal is to support customers to meet the increasing demand for more sustainable products formulated with environmentally friendly ingredients. The evaluation system is based on the latest scientific findings, which improve regulatory acceptance. What’s more, the EcoSun Pass works entirely independently of the BASF product portfolio. In a given formulation, UV filters from various producers are assessed transparently and possible
"BASF’s goal is to support customers to meet the increasing demand for more sustainable products formulated with environmentally friendly ingredients"
formulation improvements may or may not involve BASF ingredients. One approach to formulating sunscreens with improved environmental compatibility is to select the most efficient UV filters with better environmental profiles and use the lowest possible concentrations. This also makes formulations as light as possible without lowering the level of performance or efficacy. Success proves that this is the right approach. For BASF, consumers’ growing environmental consciousness will remain an important driver to continue developing sustainable and greener solutions that don’t compromise on performance. •
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Marcel Schnyder has 40 years’ experience in the home and personal care industries. For more than 10 years now, he has been responsible for the sun care global technical centre and established the technical support on UV filters for Ciba and, after integration, for BASF. Schnyder is member of the German IFSCC and has presented papers at international congresses such as in-cosmetics, ABC and Coschem Scientific Congress. BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com
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SUN CARE
Carotolino
– a botanical active for blue light protection Natural and artificial blue light damages skin and induces premature ageing. Carotenoids are nature’s answer to blue light protection, as they shield skin and protect it against blue-light induced oxidative stress.
S
unlight is essential for our health, but excessive exposure can cause
skin damage. In the past decades, scientists focused on UV light and developed products to protect the skin against its harmful effects. However, natural sunlight also contains blue light, which again has beneficial as well as detrimental effects. Blue light influences our circadian rhythm and, on a positive note, contributes to a healthy sleep pattern. Yet it penetrates deep into the skin and triggers oxidative stress,
resulting in premature ageing. As a result, consumer demand for blue light protection is increasing, as it is highly related to growing digital dependence. Although natural sunlight is a source of blue light, today much of the blue light we are exposed to comes from electronic devices, such as TVs, computers and smartphones. The excessive use of these devices necessitates modern skin care to protect against daily natural and artificial blue light exposure.
DIFFERENT LIGHT SOURCES AFFECT SKIN All types of light can damage skin, each by a different mechanism. If we look at UV radiation, it is directly absorbed by DNA, which causes DNA lesions. Such lesions may be mutagenic, resulting in photo ageing or leading to other health concerns like skin cancer. Humans produce melanin to protect the skin against UV exposure. It is a persistent misconception that visible light is safe for skin
Did you know? Blue light-induced skin damage originates from two sources: natural blue light, which is part of sunlight and artificial blue light, which comes from electronic devices. Lately, it has become a trend in the beauty industry that consumers need to protect their skin from exposure to indoor artificial blue light.
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SUN CARE
– visible light, especially blue light, causes indirect damage. Visible light is absorbed by melanin, which generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) upon excitation. In fact, after sun exposure, about 50% of ROS produced in human skin originate from visible and infrared light. ROS damage DNA, disturb the epidermal barrier, induce inflammation and accentuate the signs of premature skin ageing, including hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity or dryness.
SHIELD AND PROTECT WITH CAROTENOIDS Lipoid Kosmetik, represented in South Africa by AECI Specialty Chemicals, offers a solution that addresses the concerns of artificial blue light. Lipoid Kosmetik is a leading manufacturer of high-quality actives and botanicals and a supplier of phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry. As a pioneer in these fields, the company has gained an outstanding reputation in the global cosmetics industry over the last 45 years. This long-standing expertise, in combination with the exceptional quality of the portfolio of ingredients, enables its customers to develop innovative, functional and natural cosmetics and beauty products meeting the highest standards. Nature’s answer to blue light is carotenoids as they shield plants and protect them from blue-light induced oxidative stress. Lipoid Kosmetik’s active ingredient Carotolino is designed to supply carotenoids to the skin, where they can naturally act as a defensive shield against blue light and reduce oxidative
FAST FACTS ON stress. It’s efficacy in blue light protection is based on the unique combination of carrot root extract, carrot seed oil and β-carotene, all united in a basis of canola oil to provide perfectly stabilised carotenoids.
TANGIBLE SKIN COLOUR IMPROVEMENT Besides the photo-protective activity, topically applied carotenoids can improve the colour of skin, independent of ethnicity. An in vivo study demonstrates that Carotolino creates a subtle colour optimisation, shifting pale and dull skin tones to a more lively and healthy appearance. A consumer study further confirms that Carotolino adds value to a cosmetic formulation and produces tangible skin colour improvement – improvement that is felt, experienced and enjoyed by consumers. In essence, Carotolino incorporates the best of carrots including stabilised carotenoids. It reduces blue light-induced skin damage while adding a vivid look at the same time. These proven benefits make this botanical active a trendy ingredient that synergistically targets the protection and liveliness of skin while supporting the development of modern skin care concepts. •
CAROTOLINO This active ingredient is a stabilised, lipophilic extract of carrots, enriched in carotenoids. When applied topically, carotenoids readily integrate into human skin membranes, where they protect naturally against blue light. Besides topical application, Carotolino contributes to an attractive skin colour. Carotenoids balance unhealthy, pale and greenish skin tones by imparting a subtle touch of vivid and attractive colour. The accumulation of carotenoids in skin after application of Carotolino provides: • direct blue light protection by absorbing and shielding blue light • indirect blue light protection by neutralising blue light-induced oxidative stress • improved skin colour by providing a healthy and vivid skin tone, be it Caucasian, African or Asian skin. AECI Specialty Chemicals – Charmaine.DuPreez@aeciworld.com Lipoid Kosmetik – www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
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SUN CARE
Achieve efficient, elegant and safe sun care with photostabilised mineral UV filters
The photostabilisation of mineral UV filters is critical to achieve high performance, elegant and safe mineral-only or hybrid sun care products. Hallstar’s photostabilisation technology and its scientific performance measurement platform are a reliable partner to achieve this goal. Hallstar’s sun care solutions are available in South Africa from Millchem.
T
he importance of photostability for chemical UV filters has been well recognised
"When Hallstar photostabilisers are incorporated in a ZnO formulation, higher UV protection performance is achieved with lower ZnO dosage" 26
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in the sun care market. However, when it comes to mineral UV filters such as zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2), there is a common misconception that they work only by reflecting and scattering sunlight and are therefore safer options. Mineral-only sunscreens are often considered natural sunscreens. These are becoming increasingly popular, despite the drawbacks such as heavy sensory, a whitening effect and a difficulty to reach high UV performance. A closer look at these mineral UV filters reveals their photocatalysis nature. Both ZnO and TiO2 are semiconducting materials capable of absorbing UV energy up to 400nm, which contributes to the most of their UV shielding ability. After absorbing UV energy, these mineral particles are promoted to their higher energy conduction band and become photoactive, generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) that are harmful to skin. In a hybrid system, where organic and mineral UV filters are combined, the photolability of mineral UV filters accelerates the photodegradation of organic UV filters.
THE BENEFITS OF DPPH TESTING Effective photostabilisation of mineral UV filters not only prevents ROS generation and makes them safer, but also improves their
HALLSTAR’S PHOTOSTABILISERS SHOWCASED IN THIS ARTICLE • SolaStay S1 is an extremely powerful photostabiliser for organic and inorganic UV filters and anti-photoageing active ingredients. • HallBrite BHB is a globally-approved multifunctional emollient and solvent, and polarity-optimising photostabiliser for organic UV filters. It has excellent dispersing and wetting properties for mineral UV filters and pigments. • AvoBrite is an efficient photostabiliser for organic and inorganic UV filters and anti-photoageing active ingredients. It is also China compliant.
photoprotection efficacy. As a result, a lower amount is needed to reach the same or higher SPF/PFA performance. Conventional surface treatment of mineral UV filters is not sufficient. To reveal and monitor the photoactivity of inorganic filters, Hallstar proposes a test utilising the wellstudied chemistry of DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2picrylhydrazyl). The unreacted DPPH radical has a deep violet colour in solution. When it reacts with and is neutralised by other radicals, the solution becomes pale yellow to colourless. During a typical test, ethanolic solutions of 0.01% (w/w) DPPH were used to disperse mineral UV filters or formulations. The solution was irradiated under simulated sunlight or natural sunlight. The faster the colour changes, the more the ROS generation. Quantitative analysis of ROS generation speed can be achieved by measuring the DPPH concentration. In addition, utilising Solasure – Hallstar’s patented in vitro testing platform
SUN CARE
Table 1 Formula
Commercialised ZnO only
Sunscreen film thickness 13um
Filter + photostabilisers
SPF
PFA
Z-19
10% ZnO
2.2
2.1
Z-24
6%ZnO + 5%HallBrite®BHB + 4.5%AvoBrite®
7.2
3.2
Z-25
4%ZnO + 5% HallBrite®BHB + 3%SolaStay®S1
8.5
3.4
Commercialised ZnO: photostabiliser = 1 : 0.5
Commercialised ZnO: photostabiliser =1:1
Commercialised ZnO: photostabiliser =1:2
An example of a widely-used ZnO powder product in a sunscreen formulation – UV protection performance of commonlyused ZnO and TiO2 grades with or without Hallstar photostabilisers are scientifically compared at the same sunscreen film thickness. Reproducible data shows that when Hallstar photostabilisers are incorporated, ROS generation of mineral UV filters is effectively inhibited, and a higher SPF/PFA can be achieved with lower UV filter dosage, significantly reducing whitening and tackiness. Table 1 includes an example of a widely-used Z nO powder product in a sunscreen formulation.
IMPROVED SUNSCREEN PERFORMANCE From this study, it’s clear to see that when Hallstar photostabilisers – either a combination of HallBrite BHB and SolaStay S1, or HallBrite BHB and AvoBrite – are incorporated in a ZnO formulation, higher UV protection performance is achieved with lower ZnO dosage. This is thanks to the improved ZnO absorbing efficiency and dispersion quality. ROS generation is also effectively inhibited. The overall sensorial portfolio is much more pleasant, with less whitening and lighter skin feel.
These additional benefits are also noted: • the ROS generating rate of the formulation is reduced by 66% • equal or better sunscreen performance is provided at 40% to 60% less ZnO • formulation whitening and heaviness are significantly reduced. •
Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
NEXT GENERATION SUN CARE Millchem, through our representation of Hallstar, bring you powerful and innovative sun care solutions delivering exceptional stabilization, aesthetics and feel to formulations. SolaStay®S1
|
HallBrite®BHB |
AvoBrite®
Unlike UV filters that strongly absorb solar radiation, our products provide a stabilization effect to formulations by returning UV filters to their ground states, eliminating UV filter instability and the creation of harmful reactive oxygen species upon exposure to sunlight. For more information contact giulio@millchem.co.za JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486/1458
www.millchem.co.za
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SUN CARE
New natural polymer for sustainable sunscreens Nouryon has introduced a natural film-forming polymer for use in high sun protection factor emulsion sunscreens. SolAmaze Natural, which is bio-based and readily biodegradable, addresses fast-growing consumer demand for natural and clean label ingredients in personal care products.
“W
hen creating high-performing sunscreens, formulators routinely rely on synthetic ingredients that are often persistent in the environment,” says Suzanne Carroll, vice president home and personal care at Nouryon. “SolAmaze Natural polymer allows our customers to develop more natural, sustainable sunscreens while providing superior water resistance and an improved feel on the skin.” SolAmaze Natural is compatible with other ingredients used in sunscreen formulations and can be used across a range of end products. These include traditional organic and mineral sunscreens, as well as SPF moisturisers, colour cosmetics, and face and
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body lotions. It is non-toxic to aquatic life and produced from non-hazardous raw materials.
DRIVEN TO PROVIDE SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS “The persistence of chemicals in our environment is increasingly in the focus of consumers,” says Larry Ryan, Executive vice president and president, performance formulations and The Americas for Nouryon. “By developing natural-based products, we are giving formulators more options so that they can meet consumers’ demands for more sustainable product formats.” SolAmaze is the latest in a series of natural products introduced by Nouryon for
the personal care market. These include Amaze Nordic Barley, a Suzanne Carroll, vice president home and certified natural starch personal care at Nouryon that is used to replace petrochemical-based ingredients in skin and hair care products and Amaze SP, a plant-based polymer that helps formulators to create more natural hairstyle products for consumers. Nouryon’s ingredients and formulation technologies are available locally from IMCD South Africa. • IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Nouryon – www.nouryon.com
PACKAGING PROFILES 2020
Protecting the essential with Tournaire CONTACT DETAILS Tel: +27 (0)11 608 4944 Email: sales@sensetek.biz Web: www.sensetek.co.za | www.tournaire.fr/en Location: 24 Village Crescent, Linbro Park Office Park, Johannesburg
COMPANY DESCRIPTION Tournaire offers a full range of packaging in aluminium or co-extruded plastic with various closing systems and different capacities. Founded in 1833, Tournaire came into being along with the first perfume flower distilleries in Grasse, France. Originally a coppersmith, manufacturer of stills and cans for flower oils in copper, the company continually acquired new expertise to meet the specific needs of the developing perfume industry.
Tournaire’s packaging division is represented locally by Sensetek, a supplier of fragrance compounds, flavours and pure essential oils to the fragrance and flavour, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food industries.
KEY PRODUCTS AND MARKETS Today Tournaire’s high-quality technical packaging is available throughout the world. With the fullest range of aluminium and co-extruded plastic packaging on the market, Tournaire covers fields as varied as pharmaceuticals, agrochemicals, fragrances, the food processing industry and specialty chemicals, with the highest levels of quality, service and safety. Its packaging products are adapted to all types of applications and comply with international regulations governing uses for pharmaceuticals, foodstuffs, veterinary and plant-health products etc.
BENEFITS AND UNIQUE SELLING POINTS Tournaire’s monobloc aluminium packaging is available in a large choice of capacities from 15g to 25kg. The benefits of this packaging include cleanliness, tightness, great aesthetics, consistent quality and a low carbon footprint. If you’re looking for a high-end brand image for your products; packaging solutions for sampling; the very best in protection, preservation and shipment of samples; or UN-certified packaging from 50mℓ and upwards – Tournaire and Sensetek have a solution for you. •
Supplied by Sensetek
Tel 011 608 4944 | Fax 011 608 4948 | Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
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PACKAGING PROFILES 2020
Teqal innovates with a world-first
in-mould labelled jar CONTACT DETAILS Reception: +27 (0)32 815 3380 Sales: +27 (0)82 469 1894 Email: sean@teqal.co.za Web: teqal.co.za Location: 10/11 TradeHouse, 2 Mzimkhulu Drive, TradeZone, Dube TradePort, LaMercy, KZN
"The full-wrap look gives you shrink-sleeve aesthetics but with the economic and ecological benefits of inmould labelling”
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COMPANY DESCRIPTION Teqal Creative Packaging is a quality manufacturer of rigid plastic packaging servicing the cosmetic, personal care and industrial markets. Its experienced team will guide you on your creative journey from design to successful launch and commercialisation of your rigid packaging. The company was established in February 2017 when Sean Kirkham (ex-Consupaq), his wife, Renee (ex-Consupaq) and Dean Mitchel (seasoned tool maker) went into business together. They started small, operating out of premises at the Dube TradePort alongside King Shaka International Airport in KwaZulu-Natal. Successfully surpassing the greenfield stage of establishing a new business, Teqal has grown substantially over the past two years, capturing a fair share of the market while investing heavily in research and development. The company is highly energy and production efficient. It employs servo driven machinery, which is the most efficient in the market, while using robots and automation to maintain a holistic approach to projects. In doing so, Teqal only ever delivers the most cost-efficient solution across the entire supply chain, be it a premium jar or a mainstream closure.
NEW IN-MOULD LABEL JAR A first in South Africa and worldwide, Teqal has introduced a 500mℓ lightweight circular jar with a full wraparound in-mould label (IML). The packaging has the premium look of a shrink-sleeve label and is fully covered, yet the cost per unit is reduced as in-mould labelling is far more cost-effective. Being a world first, the company has patented the technology it developed to produce this unique IML jar. Not only is the packaging lightweight, it also requires less energy and polymer to be
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produced. Combining the decoration process with the moulding process cuts the total cost of the product and is far more sustainable than packaging with a shrink-sleeve or self-adhesive label.
TECHNICAL SPECS AND USPs Teqal’s 500mℓ IML jar is fully recyclable, as it’s made up of a combination of polypropylene and ink. The production technology is not only attractive but also highly efficient as it’s a onestep process, with no post handling. Once the jars are produced; they are delivered to the customer where they are placed directly onto the filling line. This ensures no inefficiency later on in the production stream. The decoration process is also one of the most efficient ways of transferring images onto packaging. Using its patented technology, Teqal can achieve a full wrap print including coverage of the bottom radius, or corner area of the pack, which has never been done before. The fullwrap look gives you shrink-sleeve aesthetics but with the economic and ecological benefits of in-mould labelling. The size impression of Teqal’s 500mℓ IML jar is next level compared to competitor IML jars on the market. The cap is also unique in that Teqal created a dimple cap for locking and stacking packs on shelf. This has allowed the company to free up a heap of new design shapes for caps creating more opportunities for brand and product differentiation.
INDUSTRY ACCOLADES Teqal is an award-winning company, which received its first Gold Pack Award in 2019. The company entered its Reflections jar in the Health, Beauty, Medical & Pharmaceutical Packaging category. According to feedback received from the Institute of Packaging SA, Teqal won the award for “the clever use of a combination of polymers, which maximised the visual impact of this pack, while reducing costs and retaining functionality. A clear outer lid, combined with a high-gloss silver foil band on the jar, add to the pack’s aesthetic appeal”. Since its inception in 1973, the Gold Pack Awards has grown in prestige. Today, it’s recognised as the South African showcase for the packaging industry. •
PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
CBD down-scheduled to an SO product in SA
According to SAHPRA, in Government Notice No. 586, Government Gazette No. 43347, issued on 22 May 2020, the Minister of Health has amended the scheduling of CBD. By Abby Vorster
P
revious entries for cannabis, dronabinol, and tetrahydrocannabinol in Schedule 7 have been deleted. Cannabidiol (CBD) is listed in Schedule 4, except in: • complementary medicines containing no more than 600mg CBD per sales pack, providing a maximum daily dose of 20mg of CBD, and making a general health enhancement, health maintenance or relief of minor symptoms (i.e. low-risk) claim • processed products made from cannabis raw plant material intended for ingestion containing 0.0075% or less of cannabidiol where only the naturally occurring quantity of cannabinoids found in the source material are contained in the product.
GOOD NEWS FOR CBD INDUSTRY The Health Products Association of Southern Africa (HPA) submitted a comprehensive down-scheduling application to the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) on 24 April 2020 requesting hemp and CBD substances be added to the current annexures and health supplement lists for Category D Complementary Medicine and Health Supplements, as per the Medicines and Related Substances Act 1965 (Act 101 of 1966). Since the application, CBD oil has been reviewed and is now officially a Category D, SO complementary medicine with relevant low-risk claims. Daily dose and other restrictions are specified in the schedules. This latest development provides good news
for the CBD trade, customers, cannabis growers and hemp farmers.
SCHEDULING CHANGES AND IMPLICATIONS The changes to the schedules have several implications. Firstly, the exclusion of certain CBD-containing products from Schedule 4 has been confirmed, but with important differences from the 2019 exclusion notice. When included as or part of a complementary medicine (Category D), not only are daily dose limits stipulated, but also maximum pack sizes. Secondly, cannabis as a plant is removed from Schedule 7. Instead, the psycho-active ingredient tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is listed in Schedule 6, with specific exemptions made for industrial application of low-THC cannabis. According to SAHPRA, to date no CBDor THC-containing medicines have been registered by the authority. Access to cannabis-related products for medicinal purposes remains subject to the requirements of the Medicines and Related Substances Act, the Regulations and Schedules issued in terms of the Act, and the guidelines issued by the authority. • HPA – www.hpasa.co.za SAHPRA – www.sahpra.org.za
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PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
The promising potential of cannabinoids
Minor cannabinoids have a wide variety of health benefits. However, there’s little research on the topic due to the scarcity of minor cannabinoids in the hemp biomass and difficult extraction processes. Sanobiotec aims to improve the technological processes for production of these compounds while leveraging their therapeutic benefits for pharmaceuticals, the wellness industry and treatment of progressive illnesses, such as cancer and Alzheimer’s.
L
ithuanian-based cannabinoid research company Sanobiotec is developing proprietary technological processes for production of minor cannabinoids. These are the naturally occurring chemical compounds found in the cannabis plant. Preliminary research shows that due to their structural components, the extracted botanical compounds can be used for treating patients diagnosed with terminal illnesses such as cancer and Alzheimer’s disease, as well as anxiety, pain management and reducing inflammation. The major cannabinoids – tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and cannabidiol (CBD) – are the most prominent compounds in the cannabis industry and well-known for their health benefits. However, the range of cannabinoids extends far beyond these two substances. In comparison to THC and CBD, minor cannabinoids have a more targeted effect and can be utilised for specific purposes, ranging from analgesic to antiinflammatory and even an antiproliferative effect, which is the ability to prevent the spread of malignant cells.
PROGRESSIVE R&D YIELDS GREAT RESULTS Due to their medicinal and therapeutic properties, minor cannabinoids, such as cannabinol (CBN) and cannabichromene (CBC), can provide many health benefits and could be applicable in a variety of industries – such as pharmaceutical or wellness. However, the minuscule concentrations of these compounds in the cannabis plant make the extraction process immensely difficult. Sanobiotec has been working to improve the technological processes behind the production of CBN and CBC and the results look promising. “The purity of CBN and CBC isolates we have obtained is 99+%,” says Rytis Urbonas, director of technology development at Sanobiotec. “These are highly positive
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Sanobiotec’s goal is to become a hub for cannabinoid research, development and production
results, given the peculiarities of each process. Our aim was to produce compounds that could be easily incorporated into custom formulations, which is exactly what we managed to achieve.” According to Urbonas, the interest in THC and CBD’s structural ‘siblings’ and their potential in cannabinoidbased drug development was a natural outcome of the company’s research and development activities. “We are well into the second year of our project, implemented in partnership with the National Cancer Institute in Lithuania. Currently, we are examining the potential of natural and novel synthetic cannabinoids for targeted cancer treatment based on their molecular mechanisms,” he states. “Further research will enable us to delve deeper into understanding the effects and properties of these compounds.”
GREAT POTENTIAL FOR NEW PHYTOCHEMICALS Sanobiotec aims to research and implement new techniques to produce minor cannabinoids, such as cannabidivarin (CBDV), tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV) and other compounds like Cannflavin A, with more
efficiency. This will enable the company to produce cannabis compounds that had only been identified or were tricky to isolate due to their scarcity in the hemp biomass. According to Urbonas, there are already more than 100 cannabinoids identified, making the potential for new phytochemicals limitless. “Once the most promising compounds are identified, we move rapidly. Our goal is to become a hub for cannabinoid research, development and production, so our team is determined to maintain the fast-paced development,” he adds. The upcoming research is a joint project with the Life Sciences Centre of Vilnius University and will explore the promising potential of cannabinoids in the treatment of Alzheimer’s disease and other neurodegenerative disorders. •
Sanobiotec – sanobiotec.com
PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
Symrise presents a
reliable alternative to natural CBD Did you know? Terpenes are among the most widely occurring molecules in various plants and are present in large quantities in conifers and citrus fruit. Terpenes and terpene-based products are used in flavours, fragrances, essential oils for aromatherapy and natural remedies.
With Canapure, Symrise is setting new standards in the synthetic production of CBD. This natureidentical and especially pure cannabidiol is produced according to the quality standards of GMP.
O
riginally launched at CPhI Worldwide in November 2019, Canapure by Symrise is suitable for the same applications as natural cannabidiol (CBD). This is thanks to a production method developed to deliver a nature-identical cannabinoid, which Symrise expects will revolutionise the pharmaceutical industry. With Canapure (cannabidiol), the pharmaceutical industry now has access to a nature-identical, synthetically produced CBD that is both a valuable active pharmaceutical ingredient and an intermediate product for the development of new substances. Scientific studies prove that the natureidentical active ingredient is identical to CBD derived from the cannabis plant. At the same time, the Symrise product achieves a purity level of 99.8%.
STUDY RESULTS CONFIRM MATCHING PROPERTIES Canapure is identical to natural CBD, which does not have psychoactive effects. It is said to have relaxing and anticonvulsive, antiinflammatory, anxiety-relieving and nausearelieving effects. THC derivatives are not detectable in this synthetic active ingredient. A joint comparison study by the Universities of Madrid and Córdoba and
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specialised institutes in Spain and Germany confirms that analytics have found no significant difference in the biological value of purely natural CBD and nature-identical Canapure. In addition, an X-ray structure analysis by the Max Planck Institute proves that the absolute configuration of Canapure matches that of CBD.
"Scientific studies prove that the nature-identical active ingredient is identical to CBD derived from the cannabis plant“ “With Canapure, we are offering a reliable alternative to natural CBD,” says Jörg Thilo Fischer, technical manager API at Symrise. “This product innovation is identical to natural CBD, of consistently high quality and purity and available all year round.”
ACTIVE INGREDIENT BASED ON D-LIMONENE In the production of Canapure, Symrise uses its expertise as the world’s leading expert for fragrances and flavourings made from terpenes. D-limonene, the basis for the active ingredient, belongs to the group of terpenes. This renewable raw material is a by-product of the orange juice market. It comes from the peels of the fruit. Symrise converts the D-limonene to menthadienol, which is ultimately used to produce Canapure. Symrise has developed the synthetic CBD according to the guidelines of good manufacturing practice (GMP) for active ingredients for the pharmaceutical industry. Accordingly, both the source materials and Canapure are produced under GMP conditions. This means that the processes comply with the particularly strict requirements for all manufacturing practices such as materials, equipment and hygiene. “During production, we place great importance on sustainability and GMP-compliant quality management,” Fischer comments. “In this way, we conserve resources while meeting the high demands of our customers.” • Symrise – www.symrise.com
PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
New cannabis rules announced
The legal classification of cannabis, or THC, has shifted significantly. Neil Kirby, director: healthcare and life sciences law at Werksmans Attorneys, takes a closer look at the amendments to the Medicines Act published on 22 May 2020.
C
annabidiol is a Schedule 4 substance. However, cannabidiol is a Schedule 0 substance when the following criteria are met: • it’s contained a complementary medicine as that term is legally defined in the General Regulations to the Medicines Act (GNR 859, dated 25 August 2017) • the complementary medicine contains no more than 600mg cannabidiol ‘per sales
not for human or animal consumption and contains 0.2% or less of THC • processed products made from cannabis containing 0.001% or less of THC • when raw plant material is ‘cultivated, possessed and consumed by an adult, in private for personal consumption’.
pack’, providing a maximum daily dose of 20mg of cannabidiol • making a general ‘health enhancement, health maintenance or relief of minor symptoms (i.e. low-risk) claim’, none of which is defined in the amendment or the Medicines Act • processed products made from ‘cannabis raw plant material’ for ingestion containing 0.0075% or less cannabidiol ‘where only naturally occurring quantity of cannabinoids found in the source material are contained in the product’.
4 substances are controlled and their possession and use are restricted to certain healthcare professionals as identified in section 22A(5) of the Medicines Act. These include pharmacists, manufacturers, medical practitioners, practitioners and nurses. Schedule 0 substances are readily available to consumers directly off the shelf in supermarkets and health shops. In contrast, Schedule 6 substances, albeit that they are treated equally to those in Schedules 2, 3, 4 and 5 – in terms of section 22A(6)(i)(i) – may not be repeated unless a new prescription is obtained and, in terms of section 22A(6)(j), shall only be available in an emergency in controlled circumstances and only in the smallest possible unit sales pack available. Other restrictions also apply to Schedule 6 substances. Substances that appear in Schedule 7 require a permit for acquisition, use, possession, manufacture or supply.
THC DOWN-SCHEDULED Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is now a Schedule 6 substance having been moved from Schedule 7 by the amendments. However, the classification does not apply to the following products and circumstances: • in raw plant material and processed products when intended for industrial purposes and
A LOOK AT SCHEDULING For purposes of the amendments, Schedule
"There remains much to do in addressing complementary medicines and their registration“
CAMs STILL IN NEED OF ATTENTION The amendments now create an environment where cannabidiol may be present in complementary medicines or processed products, which arguably are not medicinal in nature, where 0.0075% or less of cannabidiol is present and ‘where only the naturally occurring quantity of cannabinoids found in the source material are contained in the product’. Whilst the easing of the regulatory environment is evident, there remains much to do in addressing complementary medicines and their registration in terms of the Medicines Act. In addition, the amendments arguably align the Schedules with the pronouncements by the Constitutional Court [in Minister of Justice and Constitutional Development and others v Prince (Clarke and Others Intervening); National Director of Public Prosecutions and Others v Rubin; National Director of Public Prosecutions and Others v Acton 2018 (10) BCLR 1220 (CC)] concerning the personal use of cannabis by an adult in private with the change of THC from Schedule 7 to Schedule 6 and the provisos now included in Schedule 6 to the use and possession of THC. The amendments may indeed be welcomed by some and derided by others. There are various terms that will require clarification in order to understand the scope and ambit of the amendments, especially with reference to cannabidiol; ‘general health enhancement, health maintenance or relief of minor symptoms (low-risk) claims’; as well as the effects of the use of conjunctive ‘and’ – in respect of THC – in ‘cultivated, possessed and consumed’. Whether or not the continued fall through the Schedules by cannabidiol and THC is to be maintained remains to be seen. However, based on the now direct connection between cannabidiol and complementary medicines, one would expect an increase in product development in South Africa. • Werksmans Attorneys – www.werksmans.com
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PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
Short-run digital labelling to the rescue
Grow Indoors, a supplier of hydroponic equipment, was approached by Label Smart to share an account of how short-run digital label printing impacted its small business at a critical time. This is Lindo Mthiyane of Grow Indoors’ story.
A
lthough Grow Indoors initially specialised in LED grow light and water purification for plant growth, when the cannabis legislation changed, it began offering health supplements based on CBD. Since legislation has changed, the company’s target market has grown considerably to include the cannabis community. With this in mind, Grow Indoors booked a stand at the Cannabis Expo 2019, which took place at Sandton Convention Centre. The aim was to showcase its products and to launch something new – CBD and THC detection kits for growers.
The kits from Grow Indoors neatly packaged and finished with professional labels from Label Smart
THE PRIMARY PROBLEM
ANOTHER CHALLENGE
Grow Indoors invested in importing enough raw materials for a few hundred of these kits, which needed to be packaged locally. Needing a variety of product labels with just a few hundred of each one in time for the exhibition, turned out to be more of a problem than the company realised. The team tried signage companies to print and cut its labels on digital machines designed for making signs, but the small text was blurry, and the quality wasn’t what Grow Indoors needed. The signage companies also couldn’t offer paper-based or chemically resistant labels.
"Label Smart was able to turnaround the high-quality labels quickly because the company runs digital label presses from OKI“ 36
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Traditional label companies weren’t interested in small runs of a few hundred labels. They would only take on the job if Grow Indoors increased the order to 5 000 labels. But this would impact on the deadline as the expo was only two weeks away and the team still had to package the product. Analogue printing systems can’t meet tight deadlines because it takes time to create flexographic plates. Grow Indoors was distraught – preparations and bookings for the exhibition stand had cost the team a fortune and now it seemed the leading showcase product wouldn’t be ready in time. This was potentially enough to sink the fledgling business if it couldn’t be solved.
FINDING A SOLUTION Grow Indoors came across Label Smart on Facebook. The printing company was running a Facebook advert saying that it specialised in ‘short-run label production’. After trying many options without success, the desperate Grow Indoors team gave Label Smart a call. Grow Indoors met with Label Smart and received a quote for the job which they accepted. Within an hour, they received colour proofs to sign off and were able to complete the order within two days. The labels for the solvent bottles were produced in full
colour and were chemically resistant; even the tiniest text was perfectly crisp and clear. They also had a paper-based label printed for tamper-evident seals – these make it difficult to tamper with the product yet easy enough to open the packaging once the product has been purchased. A third semi-gloss label was produced for use as a brand reinforcement sticker inside the package. Label Smart was able to turnaround the high-quality labels quickly because the company runs digital label presses from OKI which are designed for short-run label production. Thanks to their special cutters, Label Smart also produces labels in any shapes and sizes without the need for dies. Grow Indoors will definitely be designing more interesting labels for future projects now that the team knows this can be done. “As a small manufacturer, I am grateful that we found Label Smart,” Mthiyane comments. “However, I do wish it was easier to find label printers that can produce high-quality fullcolour labels in smaller quantities at a decent quality and price. Label Smart really helped us out of a tight spot, and we will continue to support and recommend them to other small and medium-sized businesses struggling to find labels in limited quantities.” • Grow Indoors – www.growindoors.co.za Label Smart – www.labelsmart.co.za NSI 4 Africa – www.nsi4africa.com
From one
brave team to another‌ Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 the shutdown.
You are the unsung heroes!
Our #PurplePeople salute you!
New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.
PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
It’s high time we took
cannabis seriously Cindy Naidoo of LexisNexis South Africa looks at certain implications stemming from the legalisation of cannabis and how international trends in decriminalising this and other substances are filtering through to South Africa.
T
he recent Constitutional Court ruling in the matter of Minister of Justice and Constitutional Development and others v Prince and others [2018] JOL 40399 (CC) (the Prince matter) was welcomed by many South Africans. The highest court in the land held that sections 22(A)(9)(a)(i) & 22A (10) of the Medicines and Related Substances Control Act 101 of 1965 (the Medicines Act), and sections 4(6) and 5(b) of the Drugs and Drug Trafficking Act 140 of 1992, limited the constitutional right to privacy, inter alia, “… only to the extent that they prohibit the use of cannabis by an adult in private dwellings where the possession, purchase or cultivation of cannabis is for personal consumption by an adult”. A few days after this judgment, a CCMA ruling in the matter of Mthembu and others / NCT Durban Wood Chips [2019] 4 BALR 369 (CCMA) was handed down. In this matter, several employees were dismissed for misconduct in the form of the consumption of drugs, specifically cannabis. Despite having had knowledge of and signing the company’s substance abuse policy, which had been in place since 2016, there were initially eight employees who tested positive for cannabis during a substance test in 2017.
"SA has followed international trends in legalising the use of cannabis” 38
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Further lab tests revealed that only four of these employees actually tested positive for cannabis, one of whom was a casual employee who was dismissed immediately. The remaining three employees brought the present application in the CCMA after having been charged with being ‘under the influence of intoxicating substances whilst on duty’.
EXPLORING LEGAL GUIDELINES Following a disciplinary hearing conducted by the respondent, which resulted in their dismissal, the three aforementioned employees challenged the fairness of their dismissal. The CCMA Commissioner had to decide whether dismissal for misconduct of the applicants was substantively fair. Guidelines for a decision of this nature are provided in item 7 of Schedule 8 of the Labour Relations Act 66 of 1995 as follows: • guidelines in cases of dismissal for misconduct – any person who is determining whether a dismissal for misconduct is unfair should consider a. whether or not the employee contravened a rule or standard regulating conduct in, or of relevance to, the workplace b. if a rule or standard was contravened, whether or not
PHARMA FOCUS // CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS
that their workplace “is dangerous with heavy machinery”. In their evidence, all three applicants testified that they were told that they could not smoke cannabis at work, and that they had complied with this – they had not smoked the substance at work. They had smoked it at home or privately. Although the applicants did not seem to agree that their duties were as high risk as they were made out to be, it was found that considering the type of operations
i. the rule was a valid or reasonable rule or standard ii. the employee was aware, or could reasonably be expected to have been aware, of the rule or standard iii. the rule or standard has been consistently applied by the employer iv. dismissal with an appropriate sanction for the contravention of the rule or standard.
A QUESTION OF HIGH RISK The applicants, who worked for the respondent, a wood and chip factory, were exposed to large machines and vehicles. The first applicant was employed as a weigh bridge clerk. His duties involved the inspection of large vehicles as well as being exposed to traffic. Applicant number two was responsible for the sharpening and polishing of knives and the third applicant was employed as a log deck assistant whose main function was to ensure that logs, weighing up to a maximum of 100kg, landed correctly on the main floor area. The description of each of these duties emphasises the importance of the incumbents being alert and being able to think and react quickly and smartly, should an emergency arise. This was confirmed in evidence given by Lenny Naidoo, who stated
conducted by their employer, the respondent, it was reasonable to forbid employees from attending to their duties whilst being under the influence of cannabis. The commissioner found that the applicants had shown no genuine remorse for their actions. “It was a hollow apology with no commitment to not repeating the offence.” The dismissal of the applicants was found to be substantively fair.
DEVELOPMENTS IN LEGISLATION I think it is safe to say that the Constitutional Court ruling in the Prince matter has given rise to many theories, fears and not to mention, business plans, revolving around cannabis. At the recent South African Association of Hospital and Institutional Pharmacists (SAAHIP) conference in Pretoria, we learned that in April 2019, the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) announced that the first three licences permitting the sale of medicinal cannabis would be issued. We are likely to see many more of these, as a result of its backlog project. We were also reminded by Andy Gray that the Medical Innovation Bill, which was aimed at giving the public access to medicinal cannabis, had been rejected. Some may say that SA has followed international trends in legalising the use of cannabis, and, if this really is the case, what’s next on the list? Well, magic mushrooms seem to be the next contender. The Western Cape High Court has already heard an application to make the possession and use of magic mushrooms (Psilocybin mushroom) legal. A Constitutional Court matter relating to the decriminalisation of the Psilocybin
Psylocibin mushrooms growing in magic mushroom breads
mushroom is also said to be on the horizon, whilst according to a CNN report dated 5 June 2019 and a report by US News, dated 9 May 2019, the cities of Oakland (California, US) and Denver (Colorado, US) have both already decriminalised the use of magic mushrooms (i.e. law enforcement cannot impose criminal penalties for the use of this drug). If this is just the beginning of a new international trend, then it’s definitely time to take cannabis seriously. This article was first published in the South African Pharmaceutical Journal. •
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Cindy Naidoo is the publishing coordinator of new business and content development, legal and information compliance, at LexisNexis South Africa. REFERENCES: 1. Minister of Justice and Constitutional Development and others v Prince and others [2018] JOL 40399 (CC) 2. Prince v Minister of Justice and Constitutional Development and others and related matters [2017] 2 All SA 864 (WCC)) 3. Mthembu and others / NCT Durban Wood Chips [2019] 4 BALR 369 (CCMA) 4. Item 7, Schedule 8, Labour Relations Act 66 of 1995. 5. Online Article: Denver becomes first city to decriminalize “Magic Mushrooms”. Hansen, C. [https://www.usnews. com/news/national-news/articles/2019-05-09/ denverbecomes-first-city-to-decriminalize-magicmushrooms-in-narrow-vote], viewed on 2 July 2019 6. Online Article: Oakland residents won’t be busted for using “Magic Mushrooms” and other psychedelic drugs. Asmelash, L & Ahmed, S. CNN. [https://edition.cnn. com/2019/06/05/health/oakland-decriminalizesmagic-mushrooms-trnd/index.html], viewed on 2 July 2019.
LexisNexis South Africa – www.lexisnexis.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
39
CASE STUDY
Fette Compacting and Hisun Pharmaceutical achieve the impossible
Subsequent to receiving an order for a P2020 tablet compacting machine on 23 March, it took Fette Compacting China less than one month to complete the machine delivery, installation and training at Hisun Pharmaceutical. As a result, it’s made a significant contribution to ramping up Favipiravir production in China to help fight COVID-19.
I
n all areas of the world, the global COVID-19 pandemic has seen the pharma industry refocus on epidemic prevention and control of the infection. The World Health Organization (WHO) is sparing no effort to call on all nations to strengthen unity and cooperation to fight the virus and prevent its spread. The scientific world is unrelenting in its search for a vaccine, while continuing investigations on how to treat patients. This global approach has significantly accelerated the development of therapeutic drugs for the treatment of COVID-19. Zhejiang Hisun Pharmaceutical Co. (Hisun) is a leading pharmaceutical manufacturing company in China. During clinical trials in the early phase of the outbreak in China, Hisun’s oral solid dosage drug Favipiravir showed positive effects in the treatment of patients and good clinical efficacy with no significant side effects. The antiviral agent Favipiravir, originally developed for the treatment of flu, was approved for manufacturing and marketing in Japan in March 2014, under the trade name Avigan. The clinical trials in Shenzhen and Wuhan showed that Favipiravir can help to shorten the recovery time for mild and middle-severe COVID-19 infection cases. Furthermore, a positive effect of shortening the fever duration of infected patients was observed. On 15 February 2020, the Chinese Food and Drug Administration (CFDA) officially approved Favipiravir as the first drug with potential efficacy in the treatment of COVID-19 and it’s now recommended for guided treatment programmes in China. Even if not formally approved by health authorities in Europe or the US, and in the absence of an effective and widely used vaccine to treat COVID-19 anywhere in the
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Did you know? Fette Compacting’s premises in China
world, countries such as Italy have also approved the use of the drug.
MANUFACTURING THE FIRST BATCH Amid the epidemic situation and after the formal CFDA approval, the setting up of mass production became a race against the clock. With time-to-market being of the essence, Hisun, together with the involved authorities, initiated common steered efforts to ensure the production of Favipiravir within the required quality and safety measures. A unique and elite task force was formed, consisting of market supervision authorities from the region, GMP inspectors and Hisun’s experts, to track and supervise the entire process of the first Favipiravir tablet batch production from the raw materials to the finished drug. The task force team worked around the clock to guide the standard production of the drug. Hisun’s pharmaceutical experts worked closely with the drug supervisors 24/7 in an effort to overcome multiple challenges, such
All Favipiravir tablets in China are manufactured by Hisun. As the situation with the disease is improving, the medication has been sold through omnichannel across China. It has also been used to support over 30 countries and regions in the fight against COVID-19. as epidemic control-related traffic control limitations and staff shortages. After the initial production commenced on 16 February, the first 22 transport cartons of Favipiravir were completed on 18 February, designated for hospitals in Wuhan and contributing to the treatment of COVID-19 in the Chinese epicentre of the outbreak. Coordinated by the joint prevention and control mechanism of the State Council of the People’s Republic of China (PRC State Council), Hisun has since provided drug support to many countries after the epidemic rose to pandemic status with the worldwide spread of the infection. For its great achievements in such a short period, Hisun was also acknowledged by the PRC State Council. Although tremendous, it became clear the actual Favipiravir production output would have been far too low to cover
CASE STUDY
the regional and global demand for COVID-19 patient treatments.
A MISSION IMPOSSIBLE With an 8 P series and one 102i lab machine already running in its OSD plant, Hisun was already very satisfied and familiar with Fette Compacting’s technology. Needing to ramp up its production and improve efficiency on the shortest terms, Hisun approached Fette Compacting China for a suitable solution with quick implementation. The challenging task was to supply a new P2020 Fette Compacting tablet press for Favipiravir tablet production with SAT within one month. For the Fette Compacting China management team, there was no doubt that the challenge had to be mastered, given the main goal in the critical situation. Even under normal conditions, this mission would be ‘almost impossible’. Yet, at the time, things were far from normal – Fette Compacting China had just reopened operations on 18 February after 25 days of hard lockdown to control the spread of the virus. While reopening under strict coronavirus prevention and control measures, the regional supply chain was still not fully functional. Inland travel restrictions were still in place, requiring remote communication and customer emergency services. The inbound transportation for importing crucial machine
"The normal production time of three to four months for a new P2020 tablet press was reduced to only one month” production parts from Germany was seriously affected by vastly reduced airfreight and the suspension of train transportation.
FAST-TRACKING DELIVERY After a quick holistic analysis of all the options and the availability of production parts, Fette Compacting China’s management team made the request from Hisun a top priority. On 23 March, it made a commitment to Hisun to deliver the new P2020 machine in the shortest possible time. Due to comprehensive measures put in place and close monitoring, the normal production time of three to four months for a new P2020 tablet press was reduced to only one month, fully supported by all of Fette Compacting China’s departments and resources. The next hurdles to overcome were the epidemic prevention policies and travel restrictions, preventing representatives from the customer to inspect the machine at Fette Compacting China’s competence centre before delivery as
A P2020 tablet compacting machine from Fette Compacting
usual. So, the factory acceptance test took place online using a video acceptance service broadcast to the Hisun inspection team. By this time, all tests and adjustments of the tablet press and peripheral units have been executed in strict accordance with the FAT standard and customer’s customised special requirements, in a highly efficient way. After the standard rework and machine cleaning, all parts were disinfected and packed according to the high standards Fette Compacting upholds. This is to ensure the utmost protection of health and safety under epidemic prevention and control, including the documentation of all steps.
A SIGNIFICANT AND SUCCESSFUL SITUATION During this time, travel restrictions had been partly relieved due to the stabilised epidemic development status in the neighbouring Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. Upon arrival of the machine at the Hisun plant in Taizhou (Zhejiang province) on 3 April, the Fette Compacting engineers installed the new P2020 in the newly reconstructed pressroom. Subsequent to the completion of the residual construction work within Hisun’s tablet pressing area, on 18 April Fette Compacting China’s customer service team commenced the required high-quality service for debugging, testing and start-up of the new P2020. On 20 April, the SAT and all peripheral training on the new tablet press had been completed fully and according to Hisun’s requirements. This enabled the customer to finish the remaining performance qualification in time to start commercial Favipiravir tablet production on the newly delivered P2020. With the support of Fette Compacting exports, the performance qualification at the customer’s site was concluded on 25 April, only 33 days after the initial order negotiation. This is certainly a unique case in a very trying time amid the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic. But it can serve as an excellent example of how high customer focus, shared resolve and close cooperation between all parties can overcome even the biggest challenges. What’s more is everyone involved in the project gained immense motivation from the remarkable success and their contribution to the fight against COVID-19. • Fette Compacting – www.fette-compacting.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
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COLOUR COSMETICS
Define the eyes during COVID-19
The cosmetics industry is familiar with the ‘lipstick index’ and women’s tendency to spend more on lipsticks when times are tough. But what will consumers do when the tough times have forced us to wear masks? Karen Maier, head of performance materials at Merck South Africa, explores accentuated eyes as a solution to shift the attention from the lips.
I
"Graphic lines and geometric shapes in bold colours are exactly what eyes need to stand out when wearing a mask" 42
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nstead of despairing that half of the face is hidden behind a mask, the most recent market research shows that accentuating the eyes has become a priority for consumers. Eyeliners, eyeshadows, eyebrow makeup and mascara are making a huge comeback. Liquid liners are applied in elaborate and often geometric shapes, while full brows are boldly accentuated. A quick search of the internet will reveal countless online tutorials by beauty bloggers and influencers guiding users on how to achieve perfect and often unexpected shapes around the eyes. It’s important for the makeup industry to sit up and take notice of this trend, to ensure we do not miss the opportunity so unexpectedly brought our way. Understanding what is trendy and how to translate this into your own brand is key to success right now. Black will always be a popular staple in many makeup bags, but there should be options. A modern pigment such as Ronastar Black Allure can provide the perfect matte black finish in a liner or an eyeshadow, which will glide seamlessly onto the delicate area around the eyes, enabling a dramatic movie star-look of days gone by or achieving a perfect square or straight line for the modern girl. Accomplishing a sparkly black is just as easy with Ronastar Diamond Black IQ. This pigment will add a unique and elegant gloss to any black product. It has a very low heavy metal-content, which is perfect for the sensitive area around the eyes. Alternatively, for truly bold eyes,
you could incorporate an interference pigment in a contrasting colour to achieve the desired sparkle.
DAZZLING METALLICS AND BRIGHT COLOURS In the current spirit of boldness, we are not confined to black liners – instead there is a rainbow of colours from which to choose. Trendy teals and shades of blue are complemented by lilacs and pinks. Iridescence and achieving the ethereal mermaid-look remain popular. For those who embrace metallics, the choices are endless. Particularly popular is the patinated appearance of liquid eyeliners or eyeshadow gels in gradations of old gold; slightly greenish, rustic tints that look fabulous on eyes and brows. These shades are easy to achieve by blending different combinations of Ronastar Golden Lights and Ronastar Dazzling Lights with Ronastar Diamond Black. Copper and bronze shades are truly timeless and keep on coming back in vogue. Their richness and jewelled appearance give a sense of luxury and elegance women simply cannot resist. Teaming up a truly intense copper eyeshadow with a dramatic matte black liner makes an unforgettable statement. For the young, or young at heart, eyes that pop in primary colours is an exciting trend. While the traditional cat’s eye will always have its place, graphic lines and geometric shapes in bold colours are exactly what eyes need to stand out when wearing a mask.
COLOUR COSMETICS
TEXTURE AND ADDED BENEFITS It is not just about lines and colours, consumers want more: innovative textures and colour cosmetics that provide proven added benefits. Once again current market research guides us here – many consumers are apathetic and unmotivated to spend time and money on cosmetics as a result of the impact of the pandemic and subsequent lockdown. You can entice consumers to use your offering by giving
Did you know? Ronastar Dazzling Lights is one of the latest additions to the Merck portfolio. It adds versatile and enticing sparks of gold, with hues ranging from gold, green and blue to bronze tints.
them pampering products with additional, well-supported claims. Think of applications that save time and provide not only a beautiful appearance, but also address skin care issues while imparting a sense of luxury through unique or unexpected textures. Soft-pressed powder eyeshadows will benefit from the addition of functional fillers such as the Ronaflair Boroneige range for sensually smooth application and skin-feel as well as the added advantage of a soft focus, or an instant anti-ageing effect. Creamy eyeshadows and eyeshadow gels or mousse formulations allow the formulator to take the humble eyeshadow up a notch. Not only can they achieve beautiful colours but also luxurious textures. These
formulations allow for the easy incorporation of active ingredients such RonaCare Bisabolol for its soothing properties, RonaCare Poppy SE to address dark circles and under-eye bags, or RonaCare AP for its long-lasting antioxidant and anti-pollution properties. The eyes are said to be the windows to the soul and with masks covering our faces, our eyes need to express so much more to truly connect with others. It is up to the beauty industry to give the eyes maximum impact with innovative, functional and on-trend products that will entice shoppers to overcome their reluctance to spend money on themselves. • Merck – www.merckgroup.com
Features at glance • • • • • •
Very smooth substrate surface with uniform thickness Smooth skin feeling Direct reflection of light Strong sparkle on small particle scale Inorganic composition with low heavy metal content High stability in formulations
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
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COLOUR COSMETICS
#Beauty for a digital life
With Beauty Trilogy, Seppic has drawn inspiration from three modern women – Lucie, Emma and Zihan – and analysed their lifestyles. This new trend concept stems from Seppic’s analytical work to offer brands a trio of beauty ideas that meet the needs and expectations of three diverse consumer groups. Beauty Trilogy also includes a capsule collection of six inspiring formulations; in this article we will focus on a makeup product. Table 1: Insta-shield foundation EU07610 (cold process)
"Sepifine BB is a perfect addition to any formulation claiming an ‘insta-ready’ benefit”
Phase
Ingredient
% o/w
A
Aqua/Water
up to 100
Glycerin
B
C
Z
ihan is an urban hyper-connected woman and an influencer; not a day goes by without her posting a selfie on social media. On the lookout for new trends, she rushes to check out the latest hi-tech innovations as soon as they become available. She embodies the concept of super-living. Zihan is looking for new experiences from her beauty routine. She thinks her cosmetics should prevent skin ageing while protecting her skin against pollution and she expects high efficacy from products. Through augmented beauty, putting science and technology at the service of beauty, the Seppic teams developed insta-shield foundation for women who fall into Zihan’s consumer group (see Table 1). This multi-protective foundation offers natural coverage and protects the skin from blue-light exposure thanks to the Hedychium coronarium extract Sakadikium. When exposed to blue light, UV and pollution, Sakadikium acts as a multi-protector. This detoxifying approach contributes to improved skin brightness, leaving skin more luminous, moisturised, suppler and softer.
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SUSTAINABLE, BENEFICIAL INGREDIENTS The insta-shield foundation formulation also contains the o/w sustainable emulsifier Fluidifeel Easy, which is highly compatible with hydrophilic pigments. It gives a light, comfortable, soft foundation look and a nude skin sensation. This emulsifier is ideal for creating formulas with very low viscosity. The combination of Solagum AX and Sepimax Zen stabilises this very low viscosity foundation with a high content of natural origin ingredients. Both have an excellent compatibility with hydrophilic pigments. Emogreen L15, which is both plant-based and renewable, gives a unique gliding sensation when applying the foundation and a powdery and soft finish. It’s the alternative to volatile silicone oils offering a lightweight and non-greasy skin feel. Lanol 2681 also contributes to the non-greasy skin feel of this tinted emulsion. Sepifine BB is a perfect addition to any formulation claiming an ‘insta-ready’ benefit. This natural biodegradable texturising powder provides a soft, velvety and matte skin finish.
D
3.0
Titanium Dioxide, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
8.00
Iron Oxides Red, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
0.24
Iron Oxides Yellow, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
0.68
Iron Oxides Black, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
0.09
Solagum AX
0.20
Sepimax Zen
0.40
Sepifine BB
2.00
Fluidifeel Easy
2.00
Lanol 2681
2.00
Emogreen L15
5.00
Parfum/Fragrance
0.20
Aquaxyl
1.50
Sakadikium
3.00
Ephemer
1.00
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
1.00
Sodium Hydroxide (12% solution)
0.02
This multi-protective foundation prevents the exposome effects and offers a second skin-like and light texture for a natural digital look Ephemer provides an immediate and long-lasting antioxidant effect, while Aquaxyl gives moisturising properties to this foundation, harmonising the hydric flow of the skin, boosting water reserves, improving water circulation in all skin layers and reducing water loss. These ingredients from Seppic are available locally from CJP Chemicals, the company’s approved distributor. • CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com
COLOUR COSMETICS
New trends for spring 2020
Since we have to wear face masks to protect us from COVID-19, this spring will be all about the eyes and nails. Lonsdale O’Donovan, CEO of Quantum Colours, explores the latest trends in colour cosmetics.
T
rends include the neon makeup, glossy eyeshadows, extra bright colours for mascara, animal-print eyeshadow, mismatched eyeshadow and even floating eyeliner. Looking at the latest international trends and exhibitions, the following colour trends have become prevalent. Matte is out and now it’s all about bold, striking and fun looks with glitters that are more ‘in your face’. Flouting eyeliners drown onto the eyelid after applying eyeshadow with a pencil and creating shapes such as angel wings. Creativity is yours to unleash. See Table 1 for formulation inspiration for a liquid eyeliner.
CONTRASTING COMBINATIONS Applying silver glitter below the eyes is a striking and ideal way to conceal dark under-eye circles. In addition, multi-coloured eyeshadows
will be trendy this spring with gold, yellow and orange making up some striking combinations. Contrasting combinations are trending too, especially with the one colour applied above the eye and the contrasting one below the eye. And pastel blue eyeshadow has returned, creating a sense of lightness. For those occasions when you are not wearing a mask a bright matte pink or red lipstick will be prominent. Pink blusher, used on the cheeks, right up to the temples creates a glowing look that cannot be missed even when wearing a facemask. For Geotech’s latest presentation kits on colour tends and PET-free glitter for the new season, send an email to sales2@quantumcolours.com. • Quantum Colours – www.quantumcolours.com
Table 1: Liquid eyeliner GL-200902 Phase A
B C
D
E
Ingredient
INCI
%w/w
Water
Aqua
65.20
Veegum K Granules
Hydrated Magnesium Aluminium Silicate Mineral
1.00
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine
1.40
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
8.00
Xantural Xanthan Gum
Xanthan Gum
0.30
Geopearl C Crystal Silk Black
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77499
5.00
Geopearl C Crystal Silk Beige
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium dioxide (and) CI 77491
5.00
Geoflake Crystal Silver XL
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide
10.00
Stearic Acid
Stearic Acid
2.80
Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
0.80
Oleyl Alcohol
Oleyl Alcohol
0.50
Geopearl Crystal pigments are available in South Africa from Quantum Colours For the complete manufacturing procedure e-mail Marc Nieuwenhuis: sales2@quantumcolours.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
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PRESERVATIVES & ANTIMICROBIALS
Antimicrobial protection in times of increasing demand For many years, preservatives have been subject to intense marketing and safety discussions. As a result, several standard preserving systems are facing public depreciation, legal restrictions or even prohibition. Consequently, for formulators, the number of approved systems to cope with the legal demand of bringing microbiologically stable products to market is declining steadily. By Vanessa Lahn, business development manager product protection, Evonik Nutrition & Care
C Vanessa Lahn
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osmetic products in general, especially emulsions, offer ideal growth conditions for microorganisms and therefore need to be preserved. Preservation is achieved by antimicrobial ingredients whose properties also bear a potential for undesired side effects on skin. Because of an animal testing ban anchored in the European Cosmetic Regulation, the development of new listed preservatives, regarding the Annex V of the European Cosmetic Regulation, has become extremely difficult. These circumstances are limiting the selection of approved preservatives and are complicating the development of new cosmetic products. Public perception is another important factor determining the fate of a preservative. Media reports and theme-based blogs can quickly discredit the reputation of a preservative in the eyes of the consumer. To correspond with the new regulations and market demands, developers of cosmetics principally have two possibilities: 1. they can either alter their existing preservative system; or
2. rebuild their preservative system from scratch. The second option is more work-intensive, but in the long term some interesting marketing opportunities may arise. In the end, a smartlydesigned preservative concept helps to avoid bad press and prevents adaptation to future regulatory or public pressure.
MULTIFUNCTIONAL ADDITIVES Several years ago, alternative strategies such as the use of multifunctional antimicrobials were mere curiosities or interesting options. Today, the use of these components has
Did you know? dermosoft 250 eco is a naturally-derived fragrance ingredient that is found in many plants. The delicate hyacinthlike scent of dermosoft 250 eco helps to mask the undesired odours of raw materials and can round off the fragrance of a formulation. This multifunctional aromatic alcohol is a pH-independent solution to complete the antimicrobial system of a cosmetic formulation.
PRESERVATIVES & ANTIMICROBIALS
become an integral and indispensable part of a preservation concept. Under the trade name dermosoft, Evonik Dr. Straetmans has developed a range of multifunctional antimicrobial additives. The dermosoft line, launched 30 years ago, includes a variety of multifunctional raw materials and blends, not listed as preservatives under Annex V of the European Cosmetic Regulation. These multifunctional ingredients offer more than the benefit of designing products without the use of listed preservatives. The group of established organic acids and wetting agents provides cosmetic properties such as moisturising, co-emulsifying or co-solubilising with additional antimicrobial activity. Organic acids, like dermosoft 688 eco, initially show some formulation challenges, as finding the right pH-dependent concentration while considering the water solubility is quite important. But working with organic acids could offer a milder and skin-friendly alternative as well as more options for the preservation of natural formulations. The synergistic antimicrobial effect between relatively low concentrations of wetting agents like dermosoft GMCY MB and organic acids such as dermosoft 1388 eco, is the result of wetting agents altering the permeability of the microbial cell membrane. This allows the organic acid to penetrate more easily into the microorganisms where it unfolds its antimicrobial efficacy. The high surface activity of amphiphilic wetting agents, such as dermosoft GMCY MB and dermosoft Octiol, destabilises microbial cell membranes and, when incorrectly
applied, can also account for instabilities of emulsions in a concentrationdependent way. However, at lower concentrations, wetting agents can actively support the formation of stable emulsions and provide good antimicrobial protection. Wetting agents with a lower surface activity, like dermosoft GMC MB, are a good option for W/O-emulsions in combination with zinc sulphate. Aromatic alcohols, due to their synergistic effects with wetting agents and their pH-independent efficacy, are reliable alternatives for formulations with a pH that do not allow for the use of organic acids. Evonik Dr. Straetmans’ newest product, dermosoft 250 eco, extends the possibilities of alternative preservation and is suitable for use in natural cosmetics.
INNOVATION TO MATCH MARKET DEMANDS With our Verstatil products, we added a carefully-chosen line of traditional preservatives to our portfolio. This range focuses on balancing different marketing demands and budgets, with the requirement
to keep efficacy and safety at the highest level. For instance, Verstatil TBG MB introduces triethyl citrate as an innovative solvent system for preservation blends in cosmetics, together with the listed preservative benzoic acid and a surface-active wetting agent from our dermosoft range. This broad-spectrum and effective blend is also an economic and reliable solution for certified natural cosmetics. In conclusion, future-proof cosmetic preservation with listed preservatives is becoming more and more difficult. In response to these challenges, Evonik Dr. Straetmans has developed two safe and effective product lines for cosmetic preservation, dermosoft and Verstatil. Both product lines comprise raw materials and blends, which can be matched with the requirements of modern cosmetic formulations and their special features and claims. The dermosoft and Verstatil product lines are available locally from Orchem, Evonik’s approved South African distributor. • Evonik Dr. Straetmans – www.dr-straetmans.de/en Orchem – orchem.co.za
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WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
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ASSOCIATION NEWS
Collagen as a supplement The latest topic discussed in Coschem’s series of virtual events was collagen. On 18 June, Andre Burger of Sun Skin shared an informative presentation entitled Collagen in support of our body. He also provided a summary of the presentation to be published in P&C Review. Andre Burger of Sun Skin
C
ollagen is a major building protein fibre in the body. It is part of most of the structures in the body and contributes to health. This includes synthesis of endogenous collagen, joints i.e. cartilage cells, hair and nails (keratin proteins), skin (strength, density and moisture), muscles (lean body mass) and bone matrix (bone renewal). As sports nutrition, collagen peptides are bioactive proteins that promote muscle regeneration, improve athlete performance and reduce joint pain. As a post workout recovery, it enhances muscle anabolism, replaces lost proteins, and helps maintain and restore the protein content of the muscle.
COLLAGEN AND THE HUMAN BODY Collagen is the main extracellular connective tissue in the body and 30% of the total protein, yet it starts to wane from the age of 25 and, by the age of 60, half of the percentage of collagen is lost due to ageing. As long fibrous structural proteins, it can be found as strong, tough bundles in the extracellular matrix of the body, in cartilages, ligaments, tendons, bones and teeth. Along with soft keratin, it’s responsible for skin strength and elasticity. Its degradation due to ageing leads to wrinkles. Interestingly,
"Collagen is not absorbed by the intestines. The intestines can only absorb the building blocks” some organs also contain collagen, including blood vessels, the cornea and the lens of the eye in crystalline form. In types I and II collagen, there are 18 different types of amino acids. Each is essential to the function and maintenance of the skin, muscles, cartilages and bones. These types of collagen are produced by fibroblasts (cells that make connective tissues), osteoblasts (cells that make bones) and chondrocytes (cells making cartilages). Over 80% of collagen in the body consists of type I collagen and 15% of type II, amounting to 95%. The main amino acids in collagen are glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. Collagen type II and aggrecan (a liquid like filling within the cartilage) are produced by chondrocytes form amino acids.
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HYDROLYSED COLLAGEN IS KEY Collagen is not absorbed by the intestines. The intestines can only absorb the building blocks – amino acids, peptides and dipeptides. If you consume collagen type II, the body will not use it as a source of collagen. Instead the digestive system will break it down into amino acids, which it will use where needed to rebuild or repair structures to form the necessary type of collagen. For instance, the blood vessels consist of six different types of collagen (I, III, VI, XVIII, XV and IV) which are made by the fibroblasts. It is for this reason that collagen supplements are hydrolysed. The hydrolysation process takes the source collagen, like skin, cartilage etc. and breaks it down into amino acids and peptides. This is in fact the same as the digestive process in the intestines, but to get the full value of the amino acids it takes days with heat and enzymes to release the amino acids and peptides. With ageing, the efficiency of the digestive process is prolonged, preventing the body from being capable of extracting the full value of the collagen supplement. But by using hydrolysed collagen as a supplement, the body is given an opportunity to make use of amino acids to rebuild compromised fibres and proteins. •
ASSOCIATION NEWS
SAVA awards vinyl-dot to 21 members The vinyl-dot was formally launched in the South African market at the beginning of last year. To date, SAVA has proudly awarded the 2020 vinyl-dot to 21 of its members, following their successful completion of the industry association’s product stewardship commitment benchmarking survey.
M
ember companies, including material suppliers, converters and importers of vinyl products that are sold on the local market are awarded the vinyl-dot free of charge to display on their products and marketing material. However, it has to be renewed annually and is only issued once a SAVA executive has confirmed that the member adheres to the Southern African Vinyls Association (SAVA’s) product stewardship commitment. According to Adri Spangenberg, SAVA chief executive officer, this is a product label that offers customers, specifiers and markets the assurance that the PVC product carrying this quality mark is lead-free, only uses additives that have been approved for high human contact applications and which supports a circular economy. “Our key objective with introducing the vinyl-dot label was to promote our member companies and their products in terms of superior performance and their contribution to sustainability. Gaining the right to display this label sets businesses apart from their competitors and makes it
easy for buyers and specifiers to identify their PVC products,” Spangenberg explains. “It also helps to clearly identify those suppliers who are members of SAVA and which subscribe to the association’s Industry Waste Management Plan and are committed to demonstrating extended producer responsibility.”
ENCOURAGING RESULTS The results of this year’s product stewardship commitment benchmarking survey were highly encouraging and proved that SAVA is making important inroads in the industry. “We were very glad to see that all of our members have phased out the use, supply or importing of potentially harmful additives such as cadmium stabilisers, pigments containing hexavalent chromium, bisphenol-A anti-oxidants or short chain chlorinated paraffin,” says Spangenberg. SAVA has also been making a concerted effort this past year to engage with retailers, brand owners and pressure groups to educate them about the value of seeing
Did you know? Blister packs are made from PVC. PVC products carrying the vinyl mark are lead-free, use additives approved for high human contact applications and are recyclable.
the vinyl-dot on products such as clingfilm, shoes and accessories, and flooring etc. The feedback has been very positive; these decision makers welcomed the pro-active steps aimed at cleaning up the industry and introducing transparency and accountability where long-term sustainability is concerned. “Vinyl is an incredibly versatile product and is used in a wide variety of different industries and products. The vinyldot is seen as a game changer for PVC products and confirms our commitment to strengthen the positive social, economic and environmental impact of PVC. We encourage the public to buy PVC wisely, by buy vinyl,” she concludes. •
The following companies have been awarded the 2020 vinyl-dot: • AECI Specialty Chemicals (ChemSystems) • Alpha Plast • Associated Additives • Brenntag • Cibapac • Chembridge Additives • Continental Compounders • Easypak • Elco Plastics • Emeraude International • Innovative PVC Compounds • Isegen • Marley Pipe Systems • Mpact • NCP Chlorchem • Plasticomp • Polyflor • Sasol • SAPPMA • Strand Group Developments • Sun Ace SA.
SAVA – www.savinyls.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2020
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Tea
time Take a breather
To advertise in contact Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless
Sudoku
Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Solution Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
www.pharmacos.co.za
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AECI Specialty Chemicals.............9, 25........www.dow.com charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com
Merck........................................................43........www.merckgroup.com
BASF Holdings South Africa............IFC........www.info-mypharma.basf.com
Nautica Organic Trading ...................47........www.nauticaorganics.com
CanbiGold.................................................. 5........www.canbigold.com
Quantum Colours SA ..........................45........www.quantumcolours.com
Chem-Science Laboratories ............31........www.chemsciencelaboratories.com
Savannah Fine Chemicals.................17........www.savannah.co.za
Christo Coetzee Attorneys................. 9........www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za
Sensetek .................................................29........www.sensetek.co.za
Fette Compacting (China) Co........ OBC........www.fette-compacting.cn
Symrise SA .............................................21........www.symrise.com
IMCD SA ..................................................28........www.personalcare. marketing@nouryon.com
Teqal.......................................................OFC........www.teqal.co.za
Intertek Deutschland ........................... 7........www.intertek.com
JULY 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Millchem..................................................27........www.millchem.co.za
V&M Analytical Toxicology Laboratory Services............................33........www.vm-atls.com
ONLINE
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
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on membership, educational
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pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and
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M&L LABORATORY
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accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
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H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.
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QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our
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