Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review July 2021

JULY 2021 Volume 48 | Number 7

48

years www.pharmacos.co.za

SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS

Better for consumers and the environment

PHARMA FOCUS

What’s hot on the health supplement market

COLOUR COSMETICS

How to formulate makeup with skin care benefits

Helping formulators meet consumers’ evolving sun care needs

AECI

AECI’S commitment to sustainability and ‘better chemistry’ As a group, AECI has always been committed to conducting its operations with due care for the environment and consideration for the community. The group recognises that its licence to operate also comes through the approval of stakeholders in the countries in which it operates, and that present economic progress should never be at the expense of future generations.

A

ECI’s sustainability journey started decades ago. One milestone of this occurred in 1991 when AECI signed the International Chamber of Commerce’s Business Charter for Sustainable Development. AECI decided to increase its efforts in environmental matters, which were becoming increasingly important. Accordingly, AECI convened a major internal conference on environmental management and took the initiative in establishing the Chemical Industry Environmental Forum.

In 1994, AECI committed to Responsible Care®. At the same time, AECI was a participant in the move to establish the Chemical and Allied Industries’ Association (CAIA), a solid and effective organisation which is still the custodian of Responsible

Care® in South Africa today. In 2020, AECI received several awards from CAIA for its performance and commitment to Responsible Care® and initiatives that support, among other things, the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

A COLLABORATIVE AND INTEGRATED APPROACH As a group, AECI has much to offer. To ensure it is able to deliver growth and maximise resources to the benefit of all stakeholders in a sustainable way, AECI has adopted a more collaborative and integrated approach in everything it does. This philosophy and associated commitments are captured in the group’s new purpose of ‘One AECI, for a better world’.

The company recognised the need to enhance its focus on growth by improving customer centricity while helping solve pressing global challenges such as food security and water scarcity. The revised strategy that has evolved from this places ‘Zero Harm and Sustainability’ at its core. ‘One AECI, for a better world’ also focuses on the significant opportunities to deliver Better Mining, Better Water, Better Food Systems and Better Chemistry in collaboration with customers and other partners.

RESPONSIBLE OPERATIONS This is another element of the new strategy, highlighting the imperative to align every operational decision and action with a #ABetterWorld in pursuit of Zero Harm to people and the environment.

Supported by the AECI Group SHEQ function and SHEQ personnel across 12 businesses in 22 countries, AECI’s commitments inform the efforts of all of its 6 800 employees.

Growing public concerns are driving changes in legislation and leading to a shift in consumer ethics and demand towards the sustainable consumption of healthier, more natural, safer and more protective products. The ingredients, materials and manufacturing processes

Did you know?

The objective of AECI as a group is to conduct business without causing harm to any employees or contractors.

Over the last 12 months, AECI Specialty Chemicals has achieved its Zero Harm goal, which is remarkable for a chemical manufacturing and chemical distribution company.

AECI

used to produce (and package) consumer goods are being scrutinised.

and offer customer-centric solutions, chemicals and ingredients that embody greener chemistry.

CUSTOMER CENTRICITY Growing public concerns are driving changes in legislation and leading to a shift in consumer ethics and demands in terms of the sustainable consumption of healthier, more natural, safer and more protective products.

Ingredients, materials, and manufacturing processes used to produce (and package) consumer goods are also being scrutinised.

Customers are becoming increasingly responsive to this scrutiny and more aware of the economic potential in the sale of greener products. In support of this shift, AECI is leveraging its chemistry, procurement and customer relations capabilities to develop

GREEN ALTERNATIVES FOR PERSONAL CARE AND HOME CARE With the move towards milder, more natural and safe cosmetics globally, AECI Specialty Chemicals (a division of AECI) is working with key suppliers to develop and source such materials and is actively promoting these options to customers. The division offers safer and greener replacements to the harsh ingredients commonly used in the manufacture of shampoos, shower gels and skin creams to name a few.

AECI Specialty Chemicals’ alternatives are gentler on the skin and kinder to the environment.

Examples of products that are actively focused include replacements for preservatives currently under scientific and regulatory scrutiny, and surfactants that are considered harsh on the skin’s natural microbiome. The division also promotes cold process emulsifier systems, which are ideal in reducing the carbon footprint and energy wastage of classic emulsifiers. These eco-friendly emulsifiers provide a solution to convert current hot processes to cold processes in the manufacture of creams, lotions and hair products, supporting the credible climate change commitments of product manufacturers and brands alike.

To reduce the impact of home care and the use of associated products on water resources, and in support of the emerging shift to greener homes and lifestyles, AECI Specialty Chemicals is leveraging its customer relationships to promote the use of greener chemicals in the manufacture of related products. The business supplies and actively promotes the replacement of nonylphenol surfactants with friendlier

alternatives and is advancing the uptake of an ‘easy rinse’ technology in washing powders which reduces water-use for home laundry.

AECI Specialty Chemicals is also trialling the shift to greener industrial processes in its own operations by leveraging its knowledge and experience in support of a greener industry.

As always, partnerships with suppliers and customers are fundamental to its success.

Examples of this include the promotion and supply of organic pigments as a substitute for the harsher lead-chrome pigments widely used in road markings. In the manufacture of industrial cleaning formulations, its green replacement project looks to support the substitution of harsh chemicals with softer chemical alternatives. To reduce the reliance on non-renewable oil-derived feedstock, the business currently conducting

AECI

scientific trials on renewable oleochemical feedstock to develop an industrial range of epoxy resins and hardeners.

LOCAL SURFACTANT PRODUCTION AECI Industrial Chemicals, a division of AECI, is one of the largest producer of surfactants, sulphur and phosphoric derivatives in South Africa. Its sustainability goals are based on the AECI Group sustainability framework of responsible operations and passionate people.

One of the key processes at AECI Industrial Chemicals is sulphation, which entails the manufacturing of Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) from alcohol ethoxylates or lauryl alcohols. These products have been used safely for decades in cleaning products.

“The group has adopted a more collaborative and integrated approach in everything it does”

SLES and SLS have been found as ‘safe to use’ formulation ingredients in cosmetic and personal care products by independent scientific reviews carried out by the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. SLES and SLS have also been reviewed as part of the Human and Environmental Risk Assessment (HERA) initiative on ingredients in European household cleaning products. HERA, which delivered impartial, transparent and scientifically assessed safety information, confirmed the suitability of SLES and SLS for use in consumer products. These products are based on palm oil and palm kernel oil and are therefore biodegradable.

Although palm crops are a much more efficient source of vegetable oil than other oil crops, there is concern that the growing demand for palm oil could lead to the rapid expansion of palm oil production. The environmental and social consequences associated with this include deforestation, loss of natural habitats, illegal fires and land conflicts with indigenous people. In response to the urgent global call for sustainability around palm oil, the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was formed in 2004 with the objective of promoting the growth and use of sustainable palm oil products through credible global sustainability standards developed by the involvement of all stakeholders.

RSPO is a non-profit organisation consisting of oil palm growers, palm oil processors and traders, consumer goods manufacturers, environmental NGOs, social NGOs, banks/investors and retailers. AECI Industrial Chemicals is already a RSPO member and is currently pursuing RSPO certification. In the meantime, the business is already sourcing raw materials from RSPOcertified suppliers. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – www.aeciworld.com/specialty-chemicals

AECI Industrial Chemicals – www.aeciworld.com/industrial-chemicals

JULY 2021

Contents

Volume 48 | Number 7 www.pharmacos.co.za

38

49 Association News Highlights from the AMA’s 58th AGM Coschem hosts a seminar on soap and solutions

22 9 News First local biological production of cannabinoids New biodegradable suspension agent from Solvay

12 New Product Competition

32 32 Packaging Profiles Marchesini Group presents Extra for live streaming Novopak installs a new production line to manufacture tubes

Check out who has entered the 2020/21 event

36 Pharma Focus: CAMs & Health Supplements

16 Sun Care

The health advantages and protective benefits of zinc

Nouryon helps formulators meet sustainability demands

OmeGo, a valuable next generation salmon oil

Introducing Solaveil MicNo, Croda’s newest UV filter

Report identifies collagen’s scope for further growth

Simplify sun care product development with Symrise

Innovative Omya mineral improves probiotic stability

Develop next-level sunscreens using functional fillers

Survey reveals the truth about gut-health awareness

Vytrus Biotech promotes new D-Skin concept Sunscreen Simulator 4.0 launched with enhanced functionality

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44 Natural, Sustainable & Bio-degradable

16

Symrise presents the 100% bio-based Hydrolite 7 green Mibelle innovates with MossCellTec Aloe Infinitec Activos is acquired by Evonik

47 Colour Cosmetics How to formulate makeup with skin care benefits

On the cover Helping formulators meet consumers’ evolving sun care needs

"SolAmaze Natural film former conforms to the 12 principles of green chemistry"

Compounding in the 21st century

Let the EMP do the work

FagronLab™ EMP takes mixture preparation in your laboratory to the next level with an electronic pestle and mortar for semi-solid dose preparation.

Protect yourself and the product from contamination by compounding in a closed system whilst drastically speeding up compounding time and improving product quality. Ideal for small batches, research or pharmacy stock production. Revolutionise your compounding procedures.

FagronLab™ EMP • Pharmaceutically elegant, homogenous product obtained in a short time (GMP compliant) • Compact design opens up counter space • Quiet operation and a 2-year warranty • Automatic lift arm with quick-lock coupling auto-loads mixing blade shaft into machine • 10 mixing programs allow tailored preparation • Seamless touch buttons and intuitive screen • Continuous operation (no cool-down period) • Compatible with all FagronLab™ accessories

Jars • Weigh, mix, dispense and store in the same jar • No wastage, cross-contamination or clean-up • Sealed containers protect from air ingress • Versatile, patient-friendly nozzle • Application-site-specific applicators can be added • Range of sizes (up to 2 L for the PRO machine) • Spindles assist with dispensing from larger jars • Jars operate on the patented ‘piston-principle’ design for improved use Highly specialised bases for improved dermal delivery available from Fagron Advanced Derma: fagron.com/en/concept/fagron-advanced-derma

fagron.co.za fagronlab@fagron.co.za

FROM THE EDITOR

The team

Are you championing sustainability?

S

EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit, Gill Abrahams CONTRIBUTORS: Helene Hine, Lars Jung, Ev Suess, Karen Maier, Ò Expósito, A Guirado, D Robustillo, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz, M Gibert COVER IMAGE: iStock/Orbon Alija

ustainability is a key topic that fits into the broader world of beauty. It has become a huge driver of innovation in the personal care industry yet, according to Euromonitor, this has mainly been centred on the environmental pillar.

Since the start of the pandemic, we’ve been seeing a new consciousness movement that goes beyond merely compensating for the negative impact personal care products and their packaging have on the planet and people.

Now more than ever, the ‘people and planet

mineral and categorised by ISO16128 as a “derived mineral”. In contrast, organic (or chemical) sunscreens, which are widely used in sunscreens, are not considered natural as they are fossil derived, synthetic compounds.

Sticking with sustainability, our Natural, Sustainable & Bio-Degradable feature on page 44 reveals the latest ingredients launched in line with this theme. New from Symrise, Hydrolite 7 green is an exclusive high purity bio-based liquid multifunctional.

The ingredient offers multiple benefits such

over profit’ angle is in the spotlight and although its more common in the skin care category, it’s increasing in other personal care categories too.

Sun care is one category in particular where sustainability is a major driver. As consumers want sustainable sunscreen products formulated with effective ingredients, sun protection cosmetics and sunscreens in general are moving towards incorporating a stronger environmental narrative. As a result, mineral sunscreen dispersions are in high demand thanks to their improved sustainability profile and reef-friendly status. You’ll notice our sun care feature in this edition of P&C Review has a strong sustainability message.

Turn to page 16 to find out more about SolAmaze Natural, Nouryon’s 100% bio-based and biodegradable film former, created for a wide range of sun care formulations to meet the needs of increasingly eco-focused consumers. We also explore Croda’s latest UV filter launch, Solaveil MicNo, which was developed using patented technology to ensure its micron-sized platelet-shaped particles.

This UV filter is classified as a nature-identical

as reduced formulation complexity and improved finished product properties. Using its ground-breaking culture technology known as MossCellTec, Mibelle Biochemistry has succeeded in creating a second active ingredient – MossCellTec Aloe. Through the largescale and sustainable production of an endangered moss species, formulators now have access to the beneficial properties of aloe-moss for use in skin care applications.

In this edition, you can also read about the highlights of the 58 th AGM of the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association as well as the latest global developments in complementary medicines and health supplements industry.

Stay safe and enjoy the read!

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

P C Review is affiliated with:

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

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NEWS

Symrise successfully completes 2021 FSC Chain of Custody audit The global producer of fragrances and flavours is continuing with its commitments to sustainable development and responsible resource management. This is thanks to its success in maintaining its FSC Chain of Custody certification. The process involves tracing the path of products from forests and verifying that it identifies as FSC certified material throughout the supply chain.

As a highly respected certification programme, FSC has re-evaluated and confirmed the contribution of Symrise to the responsible management of the world’s forests.

Working closely with FSC for several years, Symrise has dedicated itself to building and maintaining a robust framework which consumers can trust in terms of using fragrances and flavours derived from sustainable sources.

Confirming the FSC Chain of Custody certification reinforces the achievements of the global company in its efforts in transparent and sustainable sourcing based on precise principles and standards.

“We consider it important to set sustainability goals and make commitments.

In addition, holding ourselves accountable to these goals advances us and our customers,” says Dr Norbert Richter, global president, aroma molecules division. “We have implemented an annual process to review the effectiveness of our sustainability policy, chain of custody and responsible sourcing programmes to continually improve management systems and environmental performance.”

When it comes to product development and manufacturing processes, Symrise focuses on ensuring eco-friendly production and uses chemicals in an environmentally compatible way to conserve resources, minimise waste, reuse by-products and develop new packaging solutions. A product sustainability scorecard makes it possible to choose eco-friendly product alternatives and helps avoiding considerable amounts of wastewater each year. These achievements have contributed to Symrise becoming the first ever company

to receive FSC certification for a liquid raw material from pine trees – raw sulphate turpentine oil. The oil is a by-product of the paper industry which goes into numerous fragrant mixtures. Turpentine-based ingredients, such as citronellol, geraniol, dihydromyrcenol or linalool play a fundamental role in the perfumer’s palette.

Symrise is the first and only producer in its industry to achieve the certification, FSC-139971

First local biological production of cannabinoids Afriplex is proud to be a producer of modified cannabinoids derived from biological processes instead of the cannabis plant.

Cannabigerol (CBG) is present in certain Cannabis sativa L. strains and is being extracted by Afriplex. However, CBG could also be produced by other biological processes.

The production of CBG by biological organisms other than the cannabis plant, also known as heterologous hosts, involves the combination of simple compounds to form complex products.

Cannabinoids can be produced at a higher purity, speed and consistency following a multi-step, enzyme-catalysed process in heterologous hosts where genes provide the reactions for the

host to perform. In addition, the environmental impact of the bulk production of low-abundant cannabinoids from heterologous hosts is far lower than traditional agricultural practices.

“The biosynthesis of cannabinoids in organisms other than the cannabis plant is a first for South Africa,” says Danie Nel, director of Afriplex. “Technological advances will open up opportunities to manufacture actives currently only produced in plant systems.

Heterologous, biosynthetic technology can overcome the economic challenges to produce naturally manufactured, high purity actives.”

CBG is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid produced by the cannabis plant, naturally existing in trace amounts. Although clinical

research on CBG is sparse, preliminary studies suggest that CBG can relieve symptoms of pain, inflammation and nausea, and works to slow the proliferation of certain cancer cells.

Like cannabidiol (CBD), CBG does not cause psychoactive effects in live organisms. CBD and CBG have similar therapeutic benefits, however CBG binds more strongly to cannabinoid receptors than CBD. In addition, CBG works as a buffer to the psychoactive effects of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and may even alleviate feelings of paranoia often associated with consuming high levels of THC. Afriplex is excited to extend its wide range of cannabis offerings with the inclusion of novel CBG produced by cutting edge technology. Consumers will now be able to access the therapeutic benefits of CBG in a way that is more cost-effective, reliable and environmentally friendly than traditional agricultural methods.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2021

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Kromasil contributes to improved treatment of diabetes as a vital part of the purification of insulin

NEWS DIARY

New biodegradable suspension agent from Solvay Rheozan BLC, the innovative biodegradable rheology agent from Solvay, is a natural and ready-to-use liquid polymer solution that delivers high suspension power in the home and personal care products without any impact on the formulation viscosity.

Trends and consumer expectations are shifting toward more naturally-derived products. Formulators must develop highperforming products with advanced aesthetics using fewer synthetic chemicals and more eco-friendly materials.

“Solvay’s new Rheozan BLC combines the best of science and nature. It is an innovative and flexible ingredient that leverages the full power of biotechnology with beneficial functions and excellent sustainability credentials,” says JeanGuy Le Helloco, global vice president, home and personal care at Solvay. “This COSMOS-certified ingredient enables new formulation possibilities and addresses the market demand for biodegradable solutions, making it a win-win solution for formulators and consumers.”

Rheozan BLC is derived from grey biotechnology. Its synthesis is based on starch fermentation by carefully selected bacterial strains that generate very uniform cellulose fibres. When added to home and personal care formulations, these natureengineered fibres build a regular three-dimensional mesh, creating a highly-effective suspension mechanism. It can suspend and stabilise visual cues such as pigments, natural exfoliating particles, perfume capsules, air bubbles, opacifiers or emulsions, and insoluble agents such as zinc pyrithione or minerals.

Solvay’s Rheozan BLC belongs to a new generation of biotechnology-based ingredients that can move the chemical industry towards a more circular economy.

Nouryon to expand Kromasil facility to meet global pharma and biotech demand A global specialty chemicals leader, Nouryon will be investing in its Kromasil manufacturing facility in Bohus, Sweden, to meet the increasing global demand from the pharmaceutical and biotechnology industries for highperforming solutions. The investment is expected to double the facility’s existing production capacity, which will strengthen Nouryon’s global leadership position in highperformance silica.

“This investment reflects Nouryon’s commitment to be a trusted partner to the pharma and biotech industries, which increasingly rely on us to provide solutions that contribute to the production of safe pharmaceuticals,” comments Johan Landfors, executive vice president and president, technology solutions Europe at Nouryon.

Kromasil products are used by the pharmaceutical, food and beverage, clinical and environmental industries for applications ranging from laboratory analysis to industrialscale purification. Kromasil contributes to improved treatment of diabetes as a vital part of the purification of insulin. Other uses include complex bio-pharma applications.

“Bio-pharmaceuticals, such as peptides, proteins and hormones, are a growing market and we see an increase in demand worldwide, particularly from our customers in India, China and Southeast Asia,” says Patrick Wilhelm, vice president of inorganic specialties at Nouryon. “This facility expansion will reinforce our leadership position in the global high-performance silica market targeted to the pharma and biotech industries, and it will allow us to meet the growing demand for our Kromasil products.”

Construction of the Nouryon facility expansion is scheduled to begin in 2022.

Nouryon is a leading producer of high-performance silica worldwide and has more than 30 years of expertise in spherical silica for analytical to process-scale liquid chromatography under the brand, Kromasil. These chromatography resins offer superior separation performance leading to increased efficiency and decreased costs.

This investment follows Kromasil’s recently introduced efficient purification strategy for pharmaceuticals used for type 2 diabetes.

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NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Battle of the beauty

brands

Local beauty and personal care brands are going head-to-head in the 2020/21 P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition. The submission window closed on 1 June and we’ve received record number of 36 entries, which will be assessed on 19 August by our esteemed panel of judges.

M

ore than a battle of the brands, the New Product Competition is a peer review programme that gives entrants access to constructive feedback, expert advice and extensive exposure across the print, digital and social platforms produced and managed by Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review.

The New Product Competition is now in its 13th year. Since its inception, P&C Review and Symrise – the sponsor of the competition – have been encouraging innovation in the

cosmetics industry. However, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we did have to postpone the 2020 event, which gave us time to re-strategise the competition.

When entries opened in October 2020, we introduced a freshly focused and re-energised event of 100% relevance to all players in the cosmetics and personal care industry, from mass market brands to prestige cosmetics and private label products. One of the biggest changes was the introduction of categories based on market segments, which include:

• Mass • Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label.

The entries scoring the highest in each of the four segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition. This was important in ensuring a level playing field and that products entered of the same price point/market segment are judged together.

Introducing the

2020/21 entrants World-leading probiotic skin care brand, Esse launched its Resurrect Serum in September 2020.

Created for sensitive and sensitised skin, Esse Resurrect Serum harnesses the power of probiotics and biotechnology to provide high-level hydration and antiwrinkle effects. The serum is formulated Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract, bakuchiol, gamma aminobutyric acid, hyaluronic acid and probiotic lysates that contain anti-microbial peptides.

Taahirah Night Repair moisturiser is a restorative and rejuvenating night treatment cream with a multifunctional approach to combating signs of ageing and environmental damage. A synergistic combination of ingredients including vitamins E, C, A, and B3, sodium hyaluronate, amino acids, and alpha hydroxy acids work together to repair oxidative damage caused by daily pollutants and UV exposure. They also stimulate collagen and elastin production, hydrate the skin and support lipid barrier function to prevent TEWL.

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Classic Barrier Repair by optiphi targets the restoration of skin’s protective barrier.

It regulates oil production encouraging a blemish-free complexion and boosts skin vitality by increasing the water content which in turn enhances the water retaining ability for long-term hydration. Vitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) in the formulation calms and soothes while encouraging skin reparation, Syringa vulgaris (lilac extract) aims to reduce oil production and stimulates an additional calming and anti-microbial effect. The colour correcting pods improve the appearance of breakouts and redness for an even tone.

Skin Creamery’s Wildflower Water-Cream is a lightweight emulsion that will leave skin feeling soothed and refreshed. This multipurpose beauty elixir deeply hydrates the skin, while botanical extracts work to smooth and refine the skin’s surface, creating a primed finish with a youthful glow. According to Skin Creamery, 100% of the total ingredients in the Wildflower Water-Cream are of natural origin. These include Spilanthes acmella and aloe leaf extracts. Levulinic acid and squalene are also included in the formulation.

With the introduction of Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural), Bio-Oil has harnessed the power of science and nature to match the efficacy of its original Skincare Oil – with a product made entirely from natural ingredients. Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural) is formulated with a powerful combination of three base oils, four specialist oils, two vitamin oils and five plant extracts. Each ingredient was selected for its ability to deliver the same results as the original Skincare Oil – to be effective in treating scars, stretch marks uneven skin tone, ageing and dehydrated skin.

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

The Fijnbos Duo from Sh’Zen combines the magical, healing properties of Cape Fynbos with African superfruit oils and aloe ferox to deliver intense restorative energy to skin.

The Facial Essence blends the medicinal and restorative properties of six fynbos oils with wild-harvested African superfruit oils, which are rich in essential fatty acids to nourish and protect skin. The Cape Cactus Jelly offers a cell-energising and skin-hydrating boost. Aloe ferox and the fynbos oils also help to calm skin irritations, minimise signs of fatigue and restore skin’s radiance and luminosity.

The Phyto Eye Contour leaveon treatment mask by Kalahari Lifestyle is developed with the latest scientifically proven ingredients to improve blood circulation and lymphatic drainage, which will assist with puffiness and dark circles underneath the eyes. The formula effectively treats and stimulates the delicate eye zone with ingredients such as caffeine; a superior peptide complex; vitamin C, P and K; liquorice root extract and new generation peptides. The mask is also said to improve skin firmness and dermal tightness around the eye area.

Building on the legacy of beautiful science and leadership in skin health, Environ’s new Body EssentiA Contouring Cream is a revolutionary innovation to help visibly smooth, firm, tighten and reshape the appearance of skin with powerful 3D contouring effects. The contouring cream assists to visibly improve the appearance of dimpled, unevenly textured and lax skin, targeting areas such as the jawline, upper arms, abdomen, buttocks, thighs and knees. The cream is formulated with a powerful tri-complex of specialised ingredients, which include Intenslim, Phytosonic, Vexyl SP and vitamins C, E and pro-vitamin B5.

Shower to Shower Sensitive is a personal care range that caters specifically for women with everyday sensitive skin. The new range consists of a sensitive roll-on and deodorant as well as a tissue oil-enriched body wash, all of which are infused with soothing chamomile. The roll-on is formulated specifically for delicate underarm skin while the deodorant is both gentle and effective on sensitive skin. All three products in the range are lightly fragranced, giving consumers more choice compared to current sensitive skin options on the market which tend to be fragrance-free.

Hair Stuff, hair serum is the first product to be launched by CP Cosmetics. The founder of the brand, Charis Lewis faced hair thinning as part of her cancer treatment. So, she formulated, tested and launched Hair Stuff to restore the appearance of volume in thinning hair. Hair Stuff is formulated with the cosmetic technology, Redensyl, which contains four ingredients that work in synergy to achieve the desired results. These are glycine, zinc, Camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract and Larix europaea (Larch) wood extract.

New from Biomedical Emporium, the Diamond Hyaluron Filler is a low molecular weight serum that plumps and hydrates the skin. Just one gram of one of the active ingredients in the Diamond Hyaluron Filler can evidently hold up to six litres of water, and research has indicated that it can assist to protect skin against environmental aggressors like pollutants. This serum is said to profoundly balance skin moisture and is suitable for all skin types.

Deep reddish gold in colour, Sh’Zen Rosehip A+ is high in vitamins A and C and essential fatty acids to reduce the signs of ageing, particularly that caused by sun damage.

With Pomegranate, known as the fruit of life, and golden Apricot Oil, Rosehip A+ repairs dry, dehydrated and mature skin, improves skin hydration and elasticity, and assists skin cell renewal. Floating above these powerful fruit aromas rise the deep floral scents of rose, rosewood and rose geranium. They captivate the senses and lend their multi-layered, harmonising energies and regenerative properties to this artisanal creation.

Skin Solutions Skincare is specifically formulated for South African skins. Developed by Dr Parushinee Naidoo, the range is said to be medical-grade and offer significant benefits in improving existing skin care issues, while slowing down the ageing process.

The range includes a rejuvenating cleansing gel, sheer hydration lotion, intensive moisturising cream, cellular rejuvenating complex, clarifying serum, pigmentation correction cream, advanced retinol formulation and vitamin c concentrate in which natural ingredients such as aloe vera, avocado and citrus are balanced with active ingredients such a glycolic acid, lactic acid, retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.

The advanced formulation of the Classic Eye Effect by optiphi is specifically developed for the eye area, where the skin is much thinner and more delicate.

The smart skin technology offers an enhanced focus on skin’s integrity, radiance, collagen stimulation and structural support providing an advanced multi-targeted treatment approach. A visible improvement in expression lines, wrinkles and hydration is delivered by through the use of ultra-filling spheres, while the acetyl hexapeptide-30 and arginine focus provide superior synthesis of collagen and elastin to prevent and improve expression lines.

RDT diMANzi EDP for men is a cool, collected and classy fragrance for the man that goes beyond ordinary style. The fragrance has been created by Di Thompson in the tradition of fine French perfumery using selected essential oils from Grasse, France. The composition of the fragrance comprises zesty citrus top notes of bergamot and lemon. A heart note of Rosemary captures the aromatic, woody and earthy accord while the base of patchouli and vanilla gives the essence a warm, sensual and spicy appeal.

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NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Inspired by the abundant riches that come from the baobab tree, BaoCare is a range of 100% pure and natural skin care serums formulated with baobab oil as the hero ingredient.

Baobab oil is a rich amber-gold oil cold-pressed from the small brown seeds found within the fruit pod of the baobab tree. The oil has a unique fatty acid profile with exceptional quantities of omega 6 and 9. There are six variants in the range: BaoCare Radiance; BaoCare Nourish Tissue Oil; BaoCare Soothe; BaoCare Clear; BaoCare Baobab Oil; and BaoCare Baby Oil.

Taahirah’s Brightening Range provides a safe and effective solution to addressing hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration concerns. The range consists of a brightening toner, brightening serum, advanced brightening complex, and brightening overnight mask. Using scientifically proven ingredients to improve skin discolouration, the products regulate melanin production and reduce the appearance of dark marks. This is achieved with key ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, vitamin C, glutathione, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxy acids, while potent antioxidant properties coupled with oligopeptides assist with repairing environmental damage to reduce the signs of premature ageing.

SunSkin’s UV-Derm SPF 50 Tinted Sunscreen offers full spectrum protection against UVA, UVB, high energy visible light (HEV) and InfraRed-A (IRA). The sunscreen is available in seven shades that are formulated with iron oxide to protect against HEV. The formulation is breathable and offers the added benefit of an anti-pollution shield. Vitamin C is included in the sunscreen for its powerful an effective antioxidant, anti-Inflammatory, anti-ageing, collagen stimulating and free radical scavenging properties. The tinted sunscreen is available in seven shades. The luxurious cream-gel is non-greasy, non-sticky and water resistant.

When IntrinsiCurly Me launched its Hold Me Baby Curly Hair Gel in April 2021, it was a love letter to curls in rainy weather; curls walking on the beach; and curls in hot, humid cities. This innovative salon professional gel works in dry and humid climates alike and leaves hair feeling moisturised. The combination of jojoba oil, chia and flaxseed preserves hair’s natural oiliness, while still providing softness. The gel can also help maintain curl formation and minimise frizz in all conditions.

Kalahari Lifestyle’s Phyto Barrier Shield offers SPF 20 sun protection. This day cream is based on a new generation formulation that promises triple action protection from blue light, UVA and UVB including Infrared-A. The formula is said to form a protective matte shield on the surface of the skin. Various new generation ingredients are incorporated in the product, including organic minerals and botanical lipids to reinforce and protect the skin’s hydro-lipid barrier.

South African brand Playboy has unveiled its Signature Collection of statement EDT fragrances, which have been specially created to last longer. The range includes Bold with its masculine woody blend of bergamot and sandalwood notes; Legend created with an aromatic blend of bergamot and oakmoss and infused with distinctive notes of musk and amberwood; Ambition crafted with fresh citrus top notes of mandarin and bergamot with a base of irresistible musk and vanilla; and Presence with its unique blend combines cardamom and grapefruit top notes with masculine vanilla and cedarwood at the base.

The Classic Pure Exfoliating Wash from optiphi is a multi-targeted two in one skin cleanser that is ideal for sensitive, reactive skin conditions and bearded skins. This cleansing formulation offers both physical and chemical exfoliating properties and contains biodegradable micro-plastic free calming beads, which release D-panthenol (vitamin B5), to improve corneum hydration, reduce trans-epidermal water loss and maintain skin softness and elasticity. Furthermore, malic acid assists with a smoother skin texture, brighter skin and improves pigmentation.

The 100-year-old skin care brand, Innoxa has been relaunched by the Imbalie Beauty Group. The newly formulated product range consists of 22 products ranging from unique cleansers and multi-purpose masks to colour coded serums for specific skin concerns. The new formulations are vegan friendly and contain many natural and sustainably sourced ingredients, while the tube packaging is predominantly made up of sustainably sourced sugar cane.

The Sh’Zen Hyaluronic Hydrating Hero is a beautiful serum for hands in need of an instant moisture surge. A unique complex of high- and low-molecular weight hyaluronic acids provides full skin hydration to both the surface and deeper layers of the skin, creating a reservoir of moisture that effectively combats extreme moisture loss, no matter how many times you wash or sanitise your hands. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) works synergistically with the skin’s natural rejuvenation processes, while replenishing critical water reserves.

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Woolworths Cuticle Oil is formulated with active ingredients from nature that care for the nails and cuticles. This oil contains vitamin E to soften and maintain healthy-looking cuticles. The cuticle oil is part of the Woolworths Food personal care range, which is rooted in natural care and kind to skin and the planet. The inspiration behind the fragrances is foodie orientated to create blissful body and mind revitalisation. The oil does not contain any harsh chemicals, it is vegan and endorsed by the Beauty Without Cruelty Foundation.

Providing the building blocks to great skin, optiphi’s Elements Baby and Kids range has been specifically formulated to strengthen and support young skin.

According to the brand, the skin of babies and young children is 20% to 30% thinner than that of adults and is much less resilient. It also needs specific actives to support, protect and gently nourish it. The range consist of five products: Complete Gentle Wash – a soap-free hair and body wash; Honey Bum Balm; Nurture and Nourish Lotion; Slumber and Soothe Massage Oil; and a SPF 50 Skin Shield Protection product. All the products are vegan friendly.

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION Forming a protective barrier on the skin, Environ’s RAD Shield Mineral Sunscreen contains new generation zinc oxide and titanium dioxide mineral ingredients which assist in providing a powerful physical block against UVA and UVB. The sunscreen also contains Venuceane, a scientifically advanced, heat-adaptive ingredient to help counteract the damaging effects of infrared radiation. A wide spectrum of antioxidants such as colourless carotenoids and vitamin E have been added to assist in minimising free radical damage triggered by UVA radiation.

Dr.dermal is proud to announce an innovative addition to its supplemental range of products to address uneven skin tone and pigmentation. MelaBright Intensive combines some of the best performing active ingredients into a highly nourishing cream base to address these skin concerns while delivering an unparalleled skin feel. The cream is said to be both nutritive and advanced and is fortified liquorice root extract, alpha-arbutin, resveratrol, and kojic acid dipalmitate. It also contains vitamins A, B, C and E, as well as moisturising organic aloe leaf juice as its base.

Optiphi’s Post-Shave Serum addresses skin hydration through the use of emollients to protect and lubricate skin, leaving it smooth and soft and to minimise razor-related skin problems.

Formulated in an easy to spread gel-serum, Post-Shave is designed to deliver moisture. With ingredients such as antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and peptides, the serum promises to limit redness, irritation, excess heat and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation associated with shaving.

Developed to fundamentally shift consumers’ expectations of an eco-friendly product, SereinFormulas Shampoo Bars are made on specialised equipment, hyper-compressed and lather incredibly well when wet, so you can expect to get a lot more out of our bars per gram. Every ingredient in each of the bars is there for a specific value-added purpose. The pH levels of these shampoo bars are balanced to help seal the hair’s cuticles and prevent breakage as well as locking in natural oils. The goal of SereinFormulas Shampoo Bars is to make the eco-friendly transition a natural decision for consumers.

Nimue Skin Technology has launched a new product range consisting of the Hyaluronic Ultrafiller, Hyaluronic Oil, and Hyaluronic Acid Super Fluid.

The range is designed to effectively treat and manage dry and dehydrated skin. Hyaluronic acid is the skin’s natural moisture source, but it unfortunately has a very short life span with its production slows down with age. This range contains new versions of hyaluronic acid with targeted delivery. The hyaluronic ultrafiller serum and the hyaluronic oil can both be included in a home care routine, while the hyaluronic acid super fluid can only be used in salon.

New from SunSkin, the Sanitising Hand & Nail Cream is formulated with an antimicrobial ingredient, benzalkonium chloride to provide prolonged sanitising.

This is complemented with natural oils and butters to protect and nourish the skin’s microbiome.

Macadamia oil moisturises the skin while coconut oil reduces dryness. Mango butter provides nourishment, shea butter has antiinflammatory properties and cocoa butter protects the skin’s barrier to hold in moisture.

Ethereal by Beverley Claire sets a new precedent in the fine fragrance industry due to its incorporation of innovative and sustainable packaging technology. Classified as a parfum, it is a striking departure from industry norms entrenched over decades with regard to glass and plastic packaging.

Ethereal proudly utilises bag-on-valve technology in recyclable aluminium cans. This technology allows an even and controlled spraying pattern, delivers optimal results at any angle, and doesn’t require propellant in the formulation. It also allows the primary packaging to be re-used up to 10 times.

Taahirah Moisture Boost Serum is a deeply penetrating low molecular weight hydra-gel serum that utilises the proven efficacy of sodium hyaluronate and other natural moisturising factors like amino acids, sodium PCA, and glycerine to provide intense and lasting moisture from the very first application. Also formulated with panthenol and the peptide complex Matrixyl 3000, the fast-absorbing oil-free product supports lipid barrier function to help retain moisture and improve skin’s strength and resilience. It also stimulates collagen production for increased firmness with less prominent fine lines and wrinkles.

Cleanse+Shave by optiphi offers improved shaving comfort.

Formulated as a viscous foaming gel with a blend of humectants, the product provides a protective anti-friction layer which improves razor glide for a smoother, more comfortable shaving experience and assists in retaining moisture in the beard hair. It has antimicrobial and calming properties thanks to the azelaic acid in the formulation.

It also softens the hair helping to release trapped hairs and reduce the incidence of nicks and cuts. Other beneficial actives included in the product are vitamin B5 (D-panthenol), glycolic acid and malic acid.

Environ’s new Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz and Masque are born from extensive scientific research and the constant pursuit of developing best-in-class skincare. The Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz is a lightweight, invisible, breathable shield formulated with a scientifically perfected blend of anti-pollution ingredients and high potency antioxidants.

The Focus Care Comfort+ masque is formulated with Japanese charcoal and special botanicals.

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SUN CARE

Meet consumer demand for sustainable and highperforming sunscreens For many of us, hot summer weather makes sunscreen a necessary component of our daily skin care regime. Whether for the daily commute to work or outdoor activities, savvy consumers around the world have become more discerning in their selection of sun protection products to maintain fairness and avoid skin damage due to sun exposure. The global market can be segmented into the three categories of sun protection, after sun and tanning – with sun protection being responsible for almost 80% of the total consumption worldwide.

D

espite the negative effects of worldwide COVID-19 lockdowns and consumers having to cancel their travel plans, the consumption of sunscreen is expected to recover as the world gradually adopts a new normal. According to Euromonitor, the size of the global sun care market is projected to reach $13.2bn by 2025, showing a CAGR of 4.3% during 2021 and 2025.

As consumers continue to adopt sun protection as the best way to maintain healthy skin, they want products with added benefits, a soft feel, high SPF protection and perspirationresistant properties. The demand for natural and plant-derived formulations is increasing as a result of consumers becoming more eco-focused when shopping and increasingly conscious of the impact of their choices on the environment and marine pollution in particular.

We’ll continue to see growth in organic, mineral, ocean-safe and reef-safe sunscreens. The sun care industry is changing rapidly with innovation driving new formats – gels, sticks, mousses, powders and serums – and products that offer more than just sun protection. Over the past five years, multifunctional sunscreens have become popular, providing consumers with additional benefits, from anti-ageing, skin brightening and moisturisation to self-adjusting formulas that blend into all skin tones to reduce dark spots.

The next generation of super powerful sunscreens combine skin care and SPF to prevent sun damage and wrinkles while delivering ingredients that help improve skin radiance. Needless to say, there are incredible

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Table 1: Hybrid Mineral Sunscreen Fluid SPF 30 Phase

A

B

C

Trade Name

INCI Name

Deionised Water

Water (Aqua)

Amaze XT

Dehydroxanthan Gum

0.15

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

1.00

Neo Heliopan HMS

Homosalate

5.00

Neo Heliopan OS

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

5.00

Super Zinc Natural

Zinc Oxide (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid

8.00

Clearocast 600

Octyldodecanol (and) Squalane (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

3.00

Myritol 312

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

5.00

SolAmaze Natural

Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

3.33

Sisterna SP 70-C

Sucrose Stearate

2.00

Sisterna SP 50-C

Sucrose Stearate

2.50

Amaze Nordic Barley

Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour

4.00

Zemea Propanediol

Propanediol

4.00

25% Citric Acid Solution

Citric Acid (and) Water

0.20

Total:

Did you know?

SolAmaze Natural is a 100% bio-based, biodegradable film former created as a solution for a wide range of sun and skin care formulations to meet the needs of increasingly eco-focused consumers. opportunities for advanced multifunctional formulations within SPF-rated colour cosmetics. Makeup products with a built-in sunscreen, such as lipsticks, foundations, primer, setting sprays and tinted moisturisers

% w/w 56.82

100.00

are already finding their way into consumers’ new beauty routines.

Manufacturers of sunscreens are also becoming more inclusivity-focused by creating and branding products that are effective for all demographics. As consumers better understand the importance of sunscreen for dark skin, we will see growth in sun care products that meet the needs of the BIPOC (black, indigenous, and people of colour) community with new formulations that blend flawlessly into all skin tones without leaving any noticeable residue.

SUN CARE Credit: iStockphoto/Yes

"SolAmaze Natural film former conforms to the 12 principles of green chemistry"

RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS • traditional organic sunscreens up to SPF 50+ • fully mineral sunscreen formulations • anhydrous sunscreen sticks • daily wear moisturiser with SPF

Credit: iStockphotos/Wavebreakmedia

BIO-BASED NON-TOXIC FILM FORMER In response to the new needs of consumers and to address the challenges of formulating high-performing natural sun care products, Nouryon – represented locally by IMCD South Africa – has introduced SolAmaze Natural, a novel 100% bio-based, biodegradable, filmforming polymer that offers superior water resistance and pleasing aesthetics for high SPF emulsion sunscreens. The film former is compatible with typical sunscreen formulations and can be applied to a wide range of personal care applications.

When formulating high-performing sunscreens, formulators have learned

KEY BENEFITS OF SOLAMAZE NATURAL

to fully trust synthetic ingredients that provide outstanding water resistance and pleasant consumer aesthetics. However, these ingredients, which are often based on petrochemically-derived raw materials, are under scrutiny from NGOs and the media for their persistence in the environment and arguable sustainability. As a result, consumers are demanding more sustainable product solutions with equivalent performance to synthetic options.

Produced from completely nonhazardous raw materials in a solventfree and waste-free process, SolAmaze Natural film former conforms to the 12 principles of green chemistry, showing maximum atom economy, the highest degree of renewable carbon usage and excellent process efficiency. Nouryon’s film former has been determined to be readily biodegradable by OECD 301D biodegradation testing. It has also been tested for toxicity and was determined to be non-toxic to aquatic life.

In formulations, SolAmaze Natural provides outstanding water resistance performance without any negative effect

• colour cosmetics • face, body, hand and foot creams and lotions on skin aesthetics, enabling solid SPF claims and high reproducibility in both in vitro and in vivo SPF testing.

FORMULATION FLEXIBILITY SolAmaze Natural film former performs well in typical sunscreen formulations, such as oil-in-water and water-in-oil, and has excellent compatibility with commonly used organic and mineral sunscreen actives. It is also compatible with a wide range of commonly used biodegradable rheology modifiers and emulsion stabilisers, such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure XL starch), dehydroxanthan gum (Amaze XT polymer) and modified potato starch (Structure Solanace), allowing fully acrylate-free sunscreen products.

SolAmaze Natural’s lipophilic nature makes it the ideal companion for anhydrous systems such as mineral and organic sunscreen sticks as well as high SPF lip sunscreen. It is stable to heat and shear and does not require any specific handling during production.

Table 2: Targeted Defense SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen Stick Phase

A

Trade Name

INCI Name

% w/w

Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride

Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride

Clearocast 600

Octyldodecanol (and) Squalane (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

CetioL CC

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetiol OE

Dicaprylyl Ether

7.00

Florasun 90

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

3.00 7.00

21.34 5.00 10.00

Minno 21

• 100% bio-based, biodegradable filmforming polymer

Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate

Super Zinc Natural

Zinc Oxide (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid

• superior water resistance

SolAmaze Natural

CDiisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ozokerite Wax Pastille

Ozokerite

White Beeswax Pastilles SP-422P

Beeswax

Shebu Refined

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)

6.00

Castorwax MP70

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

8.00

• non-toxic to aquatic life • compatible with commonly used mineral sunscreen actives • pleasing aesthetics for high SPF emulsion sunscreen • INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride • approved globally

B

Total:

12.00 1.66 10.00 9.00

100.00

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SUN CARE

Table 3: Nature-Made Solar Defense SPF 50+

SUGGESTED USE LEVELS (ACTIVE)

Phase

• sun protection – 2% to 5%

A

• anhydrous sunscreen sticks – 1% to 5% • tinted sunscreens – 2% to 5% • colour cosmetics – 1% to 10%

FEATURED FORMULATIONS In Table 1, Hybrid Mineral Sunscreen Fluid SPF 30 (expected) is an ultra-lightweight, nonwhitening and fast absorbing oxybenzone-free formulation containing both mineral and organic UV filters. It contains SolAmaze Natural film former for enhanced water resistance, Amaze Nordic Barley for enhanced sensory attributes such as reduced gloss and a soft after-feel, and Amaze XT for improved emulsion stability as well as increased suspension capability to uniformly disperse the mineral UV filters for optimum SPF performance.

Targeted Defense SPF 30 (expected) Mineral Sunscreen Stick in Table 2 balances performance and aesthetics by providing excellent protection from the sun’s UVA and UVB rays with an easily spreadable, virtually non-whitening 100% mineral formulation. It features SolAmaze Natural film former for improved water and rub resistance while delivering consumer-preferred aesthetics.

In Table 3, Nature-Made Solar Defense SPF 50+ (expected) Sunscreen 2823-86 offers excellent UV protection and a quick absorbing and lightweight feel on skin. This formulation features three naturally-derived and biodegradable Nouryon products for a highperforming acrylate-free sunscreen: 1. SolAmaze Natural film former for improved water and rub resistance while delivering consumer-preferred aesthetics 2. Structure XL starch for a smooth and creamy texture 3. Amaze Nordic Barley starch for reduced oiliness and gloss of organic UV filters to create a lightweight and powdery finish.

B

C

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INCI Name

Deionised Water

Water (Aqua)

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

1.00

Neo Heliopan 357

Avobenzone

5.00

Neo Heliopan OS

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

5.00

Neo Heliopan 303

Octocrylene

8.00

Neo Heliopan HMS

Homosalate

3.00

SolAmaze Natural

Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

5.00

Neossance Hemisqualane

C13-15 Alkane

3.33

Myritol 312

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

2.00

Sisterna SP 70-C

Sucrose Stearate

2.50

Sisterna SP 50-C

SSucrose Stearate

2.50

Amaze Nordic Barley

Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour

4.00

Structure XL

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

1.85

Zemea Propanediol

Propanediol

4.00

25% Citric Acid Solution

Citric Acid (and) Water

0.20

Total:

% w/w 48.12

100.00

• Tapioca Pure – a 100% natural native tapioca starch providing a velvet skin feel to sunscreens • Amaze Nordic Barley – a COSMOSapproved, 100% natural barley starch for conventional and certified natural sunscreens • Structure XL – a naturally-derived, readily-biodegradable rheology modifier, enabling light textures • Amaze XT – a 100% natural rheology modifier with a positive impact on SPF performance • Cekol and Akucell – anionic water-soluble polymers that are used in a variety of personal care formulations such as sunscreens, body lotions, moisturising serums and makeup products. • IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com Nouryon – personalcare.marketing@nouryon.com

Credit: iStockphoto/PeopleImages

EMPOWERING FORMULATORS In addition to SolAmaze Natural film former, sun care product formulators worldwide can count on Nouryon’s sensory enhancers and rheology modifiers for exceptional aesthetics for ecoconscious consumers. These include: • Dry-Flo PC – a modified granular starch providing exceptional skin feel improvements to oily sun care formulations • Dry-Flo TS – a modified tapioca starch with low allergen potential to reduce the oiliness of sunscreens

Trade Name

Best of

both worlds

Solaveil MicNo ™

®

A new particle design for safe and sustainable solar protection products.

Combining all the benefits of micron-sized Zinc Oxide (ZnO) with unrivalled transparency on the skin, the Solaveil MicNo range provides formulators with the best of both worlds.

This innovative range of ZnO powders and dispersions are based on patented, platelet-shaped structures that ensure Solaveil MicNo particles are large enough to be suitable for natural and COSMOS approved formulations, whilst also being transparent on the skin. This level of transparency makes them extremely versatile and suitable for a wide range of end applications and skin phototypes.

Approved worldwide as a UV filter, this mineral sunscreen active is inherently mild and safe, with low irritancy and sensitisation, making it particularly suitable for babies and sensitive skin.

All the benefits of micron-sized Zinc Oxide with unrivalled transparency on the skin.

Solaveil MicNo: Patented plateletshaped, micron-sized particles

Conventional ZnO spherical shaped particles

@CrodaPC Croda Personal Care

www.crodapersonalcare.com

Smart science to improve lives™

@croda_personal_care

christien.gordon@croda.com

Micron-sized particles COSMOS variants available Unique platelet structure Unrivalled transparency on the skin Approved worldwide Mild and safe Applications: Skin care, sun care, colour cosmetics

SUN CARE

A new particle design for mineral sunscreens

Driven by our purpose – to use “smart science to improve lives” – Croda is tackling some of the biggest challenges the world is facing today and has committed to be “climate, land and people positive” by 2030. One of our hero targets within our “people positive” commitment is to protect at least 60m people annually from potentially developing skin cancer from harmful UV rays, through the use of our solar protection ingredients. By Helene Hine, Croda

C

roda’s latest UV filter launch, Solaveil MicNo, is helping us to meet this hero target, extending our range of Solaveil mineral filters with a patented particle design that has all the benefits of a micron-sized particle, yet minimal whitening on skin.

PARTICLE DESIGN AND HOW IT WORKS The patented technology behind Solaveil MicNo is its micron-sized platelet-shaped particles. This unique morphology is formed from primary crystals. Figure 1 shows scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images of this unique platelet structure. At high magnification, the SEM images show the platelet structure in a stacked formation.

This stacked packing and the separation of

"Solaveil MicNo has a lower level of whitening on the skin" structural layers are why Solaveil MicNo has unrivalled transparency on skin.

Measurement of mean particle size of uncoated Solaveil MicNo by X-ray disc centrifuge (XRDC) by mass, gives a mean particle size of 516nm. Based on both the REACH definition of “nano” and the Cosmetics Europe interpretation of “nano”, Solaveil MicNo would therefore be considered to be “non-nano”.1, 2 Furthermore, studies have revealed that the platelet structure of this UV filter is not broken down during use, even when extremely high shear, such as bead milling, is applied to the product.

Solaveil MicNo consists of platelets that form an ordered stacked structure

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Did you know?

Mineral inorganic sunscreens attenuate UV by two mechanisms: absorption and scattering.

Conventional ZnO sunscreens scatter and reflect visible light to the surface of the sunscreen film, which can lead to a white appearance on the skin.

(see Figure 1). This structural composition results in less scattering and reflection back to the surface of the skin, and ultimately results in unrivalled transparency on skin.

The mechanism of action is summarised in Figure 2.

APPEARANCE ON DIFFERENT SKIN PHOTOTYPES To visualise the skin appearance, skin whitening was evaluated using a basic W/O emulsion containing 20% active ZnO. Subjects with skin phototypes from I to V were selected, with two subjects with skin phototype V being included in the study.

Of the sample, 0.05mℓ was applied to the subjects in a 5cm square. After application, the subjects were instructed to rub in the sample 40 times; the skin was left to dry for five minutes before images were taken.

Figure 3 shows the results for Solaveil MZP3 (uncoated ZnO powder from the Solaveil MicNo range) compared with the market-leading uncoated ZnO powder which is spherical and has a small particle size. In all cases, Solaveil MicNo has a lower level of whitening on the skin.

SAFE AND SUSTAINABLE MINERALS ZnO occurs naturally as the mineral zincite, but in cosmetics, all ZnO used is of synthetic origin. Solaveil MicNo is classified as a nature-identical mineral and categorised

Figure 1: SEM images of Solaveil MicNo particles

by ISO16128 as a “derived mineral”. In contrast, organic (or chemical) sunscreens which are widely used in sunscreens are not considered natural as they are fossilderived, synthetic compounds. In the Solaveil MicNo range, three products are COSMOS-approved. These are the uncoated powder Solaveil MZP3, stearic acid coated powder Solaveil MZP8, and an uncoated powder dispersed in caprylic/capric triglyceride, Solaveil MZ3-300. In addition, the entire range is vegan-suitable and halaal-approved. 3 ZnO is well-known as a safe material that has been used in cosmetics for decades. In more recent times extensive safety reviews have been conducted by the US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) and the EU Scientific

SUN CARE

Figure 2: Mode of action of conventional ZnO sunscreens versus a Solaveil MicNo ZnO sunscreen

Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) and these reviews have concluded that whatever its size (nanomaterial or not), ZnO largely does not penetrate the skin.4, 5 The FDA classify them as GRASE (Generally Recognised as Safe & Effective) Category 1. ZnO is approved by regulatory bodies globally at levels up to 25% active, which is the highest active level permitted of any UV active, along with titanium dioxide (TiO2). ZnO also has a very low potential for skin irritation and has a long history of use in topical treatments for skin conditions, making Solaveil MicNo a great choice for formulators working on products for any skin type, including babies, children and sensitive skin.

There is some evidence of allergens with chemical/organic sunscreens, specifically benzophenone, cinnamates and dibenzylmethanes.6 In addition, the FDA states there is evidence that they are/ or may be absorbed through the skin, and the consequences of this absorption are not known.4 Finally, their permitted use levels are limited to 5% to 10% in most cases, depending on the country.

SPF AND UVA EFFICACY Solaveil MicNo is broad spectrum and comparable in UVA performance with conventional ZnO grades. It has a UVA PF per 1%

solids of around 0.41. Used alone it passes the EU requirements for UVA (that is SPF/UVA PF ratio of approximately 1.2, so less than 3) and meets the US requirements for broad-spectrum claims (that is a critical wavelength of around 376nm, so greater than 370nm). It also meets the new proposed US requirement for broad spectrum, which is a UVAI/UV ratio of at least 0.70. Solaveil MicNo achieves a UVAI/UV ratio of around 0.875, which would achieve a rating of ‘high’.

The SPF efficacy of Solaveil MicNo has been studied in a wide range of formulations and tested in vivo with independent laboratories.

Results show that the UV filter has efficacy equal to, or better than, conventional ZnO. Solaveil MicNo will typically achieve at least 0.52 SPF units for 1% solids, while higher performance is obtained with dispersions of the UV filter. SPF efficacy is, however, highly formulation dependant and some studies show SPF efficacy of 1 SPF unit or higher for 1% active. Further work is ongoing in Croda’s global formulation laboratories to understand these findings and to establish greater efficiencies for Solaveil MicNo. • REFERENCES: 1. https://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/nanotech/ reach-clp/index_en.htm 2. https://docplayer.net/54947113-Cosmetics-europenano-guidance-package.html 3. Vegan-suitable means it can be considered to be generally suitable for vegan; however, as there is no single agreed definition nor a standard, global certification, if you are interested in making a vegan claim, please request our Vegan Suitability statement for specifics on this product and compare to the certification(s) you are seeking to meet.

4. https://www.fda.gov/NewsEvents/Newsroom/ PressAnnouncements/ucm631736.htm 5. https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/ consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_103.pdf 6. https://acaai.org/resources/connect/ask-allergist/reditchy-bumps-wearing-sunscreen-outside

Figure 3: Skin images of Solaveil MZP3 from the Solaveil MicNo range, compared with the market-leading ZnO (conventional small particle ZnO)

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

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SUN CARE

Simplifying the development and manufacture of sun care products The formulation of sun protection products can be a difficult job. Selecting the right UV filter combination to achieve broad spectrum protection, adjusting the use levels of each UV filter to reach the desired SPF whilst complying with regulatory demands and providing sufficient formulation stability are only a few of the challenges. Lars Jung, Symrise’s senior global product manager functionals and Ev Suess, technical director of cosmetic ingredients EAME at Symrise explore efficient ways to overcome these challenges in sun care product development.

T

he development of a new sunscreen product requires the consideration of several aspects. In addition to the usual demands for personal care products, like stability and sensorial performance, there are country- or regional-specific regulations concerning safety aspects to be followed.

The selection of the UV filters and their use level also motivate certain limitations.

Effective protection against UVA and UVB rays and achieving the claimed SPF needs to be substantiated by in vivo SPF tests.

Consumers can of course expect that their sunscreen products are safe, regulatory compliant and provide effective protection against sunlight radiation. Moreover, they desire convenient products which are easy to use and apply. An appealing sun care product should be instantly absorbed, non-greasy or non-sticky.

Usually, they should also provide additional benefits such as moisturising, refreshing or anti-ageing.

Figure 1: UV absorbance curve of NeoHeliopan Flat

filters might significantly help to improve the SPF. All used UV filters have to be permitted for use in the country or region where the finished product will be marketed. In the EU, Mercosur, China or ASEAN states1, sunscreen products are treated as cosmetics. In some countries, like Japan or Taiwan, they are regulated as functional or medicated cosmetics. Whereas

in other countries they are legislated as over the counter (OTC) drugs, as is the case in the USA, Canada and Australia, which conversely also demands individual approaches to fulfil the required quality management.

It is also advised to check the legal status of each UV filter for each country where the finished formulation will be sold before beginning formulation work. Even for globally approved sunscreen filters, the maximum levels permitted for use may differ significantly.

"Check the legal status of each UV filter for each country where the finished formulation will be sold before beginning formulation work"

STARTING POINTS TO CONSIDER Before starting development work, formulators have to outline the key requirements for a sun protection product.

The target market and definition of the desired SPF and the related UVA protection are the basis for all further considerations.

The choice of UV filters is crucial for the effectiveness of the sunscreen product. A common approach to comply with regulatory requirements regarding efficacy and UVA protection in most countries is to use at least one UVB and one UVA filter. UVA filters and the combination of oil and water soluble UVB

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Figure 2: Absorbance Curve NeoHeliopan Flat (*Based on 1.3 mg/cm2 (ISO 24443:2012 Determination of Sunscreen UVA Photoprotection in vitro)

SUN CARE

Figure 3: A classic thickener combination with carbomer and xanthan gum, and a natural thickener combination with scleroglucan, xanthan gum and microcrystalline cellulose

SELECTING THE BEST UV FILTERS Today, UV filters are used in a huge variety of cosmetic products, from traditional beach products to daily wear or tinted face care products that frequently claim a SPF. Specific target groups such as kids or baby products, products for outdoor activities and those formulated for specific ethnic demands can require specific application forms.

The product’s packaging, be it a bottle, jar, tube, novel dispenser, aerosol or a pump spray, also requires careful consideration in terms of compatibility with the texture of the product and basic formulation.

Table 1: Different use levels of NeoHeliopan Flat in an o/w sunscreen formula – expected SPF versus the in vitro SPF, including data about the UVA protection factor after irradiation and critical wavelength

More and more sunscreen products for the body and face have additional claims like moisturising; full light protection including protection against infrared (IR), visible and blue (VIS) light; anti-ageing and anti-pollution, to name a few. The ingredients to provide these benefits also need to be carefully incorporated into the sunscreen formulation.

The most common sunscreen product form is an o/w emulsion. The oil phase of o/w emulsion is limited to approximately 35% to 40%.

Most organic UV filters are lipophilic and need to be incorporated in the oil phase of the emulsion. They are either liquid or

supplied in an oil soluble crystalline form.

To achieve a high SPF and a high UVA protection, it is often necessary to use several crystalline UV filters in high doses in one formulation. In this case, it is essential that the formulation contains sufficient solvents, such as liquid oil-soluble UV filters and some emollients to keep the crystalline filters solubilised and prevent them from recrystallising.

The development and manufacture of sunscreen products could be simplified by using well-balanced and ready-to-use UV filter blends. The UV filter blend described in this article is an oil soluble, clear, yellow to dark yellow viscous liquid UV mixture of

Sun Protection

A DEEPER KNOWLEDGE

Discover our broad portfolio of ingredients that deliver protection from UVA, UVB, infrared and even visible light.

Efficient solutions that set a new standard in consumer safety and skin care, paired with advanced formulation expertise for the most enjoyable cosmetic textures.

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci

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SUN CARE

Table 2: A formulation example with the UV and emulsifier blends. In vivo SPF is measured according to ISO 24444:2010 ‘Determination of Sun Protection factor SPF’ Phase

Ingredients

INCI

SymEffect Varytex (342911)

Propanedio Dicaprylate/Caprate, Triisononanoin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylic/ Capric Triglceride, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glycery Oleate Citrate, Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearyl Caprylate

10.0

Homosalate, Octocrylene, BisEthylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethyhexyl Salicylate

30.0

SymDecanox HA (97276)

Caprylic/Capric Tiglyceride, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone

1.00

Edeta BD

Disodium EDTA

0.10

Seychelles (258050)

Parfum

0.50

Sensocel 10

Cellulose

2.00

Cosphaderm X Soft

Xanthan Gum

0.30

Aqua/Water

Aqua

Avicel PC 611

Microcrystalline Cellulose

0.80

Bentone Hydroclay 2000

Hectorite

0.80

Glycerin 99.5%

Glycerine

1.00

SymReboot L19 (846066)

Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment

0.50

Hydrolite 5 green (996442)

Pentylene Glycol

1.50

SymOcide PH (973949)

Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Aqua

1.45

Dragosine (844033)

Carnosine

0.20

Citric Acid 10% Sol.

Aqua, Citric Acid

0.40

NeoHeliopan Flat (294843)

A

B

C

%

49.45

Body Sun Protection Lotion SPF 50+ UVA/UVB Balanced

carefully selected UV filters that uniformly absorb solar radiation ranging from 300nm to 360nm (see Figure 1). The UV filter blend provides optimal protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays and removes the need to use additional UV filters. It also simplifies the development and manufacture of sunscreen products with a high SPF. The liquid blend is composed in a way that crystalline UV filters stay solubilised down to -20°C, which makes it suitable for cold/ cold processes. This saves time and energy in the manufacturing process and avoids the handling of powdered UV filters.

The simple adjustment of the use level enables sunscreen products, such as lotions, creams, sprays and oils with sun protection factors from 6 to 50+ to be produced without the need to add additional UV filters.

Table 1 and Figure 2 show an o/w sunscreen formula with the UV blend incorporated at different concentration levels and the measured in vitro SPF*.

TEXTURE AND SENSORY BENEFITS Apart from the selection of UV filters, the texture and sensory aspect of a sun

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care product play an important role in its effectiveness. An even and homogenous distribution on skin is a pre-requisite for sufficient protection. One should also not underestimate the impact of the sensorial feel when applying the product. The readiness of consumers to apply a sun care product in the required frequency may be much higher, when the product is easy to apply and imparts a nice and non-sticky skin feel.

SymEffect Varytex is a well-balanced selection of oil components and an effective o/w emulsifier. The liquid o/w emulsion base can be easily combined with the UV filter blend described in this article.

The combination of emollients provides a harmonic sensation on skin and can counteract the known stickiness of some UV filters. The emulsifier also keeps the emulsion stable.

By simply adjusting the use level of the emulsion base (the recommended range is 10% to 30% by weight in a formulation), one can change the texture from a sprayable liquid to a cream. The increase also triggers the sensorial impact from light to rich. For more creamy textures with a light skin feel,

the emulsion base can be used at the lower part of the recommended range and can be combined with additional texturisers. The base is compatible with synthetic thickeners such as carbomer as well as with natural based ones, like xanthan gum (see Figure 3).

To complete the sun care product, a product protection system, optional additives such as moisturisers or soothing ingredients and eventually a fragrance should to be added to UV filter blend and emulsion base. Both, the UV blend and emulsifier base are liquids.

This facilitates handling in production. The number of weighing and dosing steps are also reduced from 12 to only two steps. Pourable or pump-able ingredients make dosing both accurate and simple. An all-in-one process could even be possible.

Table 2 shows a formulation example with the broad spectrum UV blend and the o/w emulsifier base. This sunscreen lotion is a body product that protects skin during sunbathing. Its light texture spreads easily and is quickly absorbed. To consider consumers’ expectations, the lotion is enriched with anti-ageing, antioxidant and soothing active ingredients to keep the skin protected, moisturised and feeling soothed.

CONCLUSION The UV blend and the emulsion base described in this article enable formulators to create a whole range of sun care or skin care products with claimed SPF. Even for those who are not yet well versed in the development of these products, the UV filter blend offers a convenient way to find the right UV filter combination and cover the required ratio between UVA and UVB absorbance.

Together with the emulsion base, it is possible to develop products with different textures, from a thin liquid to a viscous cream providing SPFs from 6 to 50+ and broad spectrum protection from UV radiation.

On closer inspection of the ecological and economic impact, many manufacturers will come to the conclusion that the employment of the two products will help to save time and energy in the manufacturing process. Less quality control, simplified order management and a reduced number of stock keeping units in the warehouse might also pay off. •

REFERENCE: 1. EU: European Union / Mercosur: Mercado Común del Sur / ASEAN: Association of Southeast Asian Nations

Symrise – www.symrise.co.za

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SUN CARE

How to develop next-level sunscreens using functional fillers The use of sun care products has become widely accepted to avoid the discomfort of sunburn and the possibility of skin cancer, but many people only apply these products when spending the day outdoors. While it is well-know that persistent exposure to sunlight causes accelerated skin ageing, applying sunscreen does not form part of everyone’s daily skin care routine.

Karen Maier of Merck explores how formulators have the power to change this by developing next-level sun care products.

S

unscreen products are often perceived as sticky and oily and only suitable for occasional use. But what if these products were transformed to resemble skin care products with a rich, luxury feel instead of being tacky and greasy?

Or if the sunscreen product left a soft radiant glow on skin and offered instant wrinkle reduction or instant colour correction? Might this not entice consumers to add the extra step of sun care into their daily skin care routine?

FUNCTIONAL FILLERS PROVEN TO IMPROVE SPF The RonaFlair range of functional fillers incorporates products to improve sun care formulations. The first, and probably most important factor when selecting a sunscreen, is the sun protection factor (SPF). Studies have shown that small spherical particles demonstrate the ability to improve the SPF of a formulation.

Two RonaFlair products, LDP White and Flawless, where initially measured to see if they would produce an SPF in a formulation without UV filters, but there was virtually no SPF discernible.

The two fillers were then added to

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Did you know?

Merck’s RonaFlair functional fillers are made up of highly-engineered raw materials that wear comfortably on skin and add a luxurious finish to sun and skin care formulations.

an O/W formulation containing both organic and inorganic UV filters, and it was found that RonaFlair Flawless had little impact whereas LDP White managed to improve the SPF of the base formulation from 26 to 32. In subsequent tests, initially in vitro and thereafter in vivo, a W/O base formulation containing 10% Eusolex HMS (homosalate), 10% Eusolex OCR (octocrylene), 5% Eusolex 9020 (avobenzone) and 5% Eusolex OS (octyl salicylate), with a measured SPF of 30, was tested. In order to have a control, a formulation containing 3% untreated silica spheres were added to the base, while the next control contained 3% RonaFlair Extender W, a TiO2coated platelet. Both of these additions slightly improved the SPF but not significantly.

When 3% RonaFlair Flawless and 3% LDP White were added to the base

formulation, the SPF measured 65 and 66 respectively – showing a huge boost. When these tests were repeated in vivo there was also an increase in the SPF, concluding that there is indeed a synergistic effect when these RonaFlair products are combined with organic UV filters.

Apart from their SPF boosting benefits, these two functional fillers are well-known for their outstanding soft focus properties and are widely used in anti-ageing formulations for instant anti-wrinkle effects. A wrinkle usually shows a shadow and lightened zone. The spheres of the functional fillers roll into the wrinkle and by diffuse scattering incidental light, the wrinkles appear diminished.

In addition to these amazing benefits, adding either RonaFlair LDP White or

"Apart from their SPF boosting benefits, functional fillers are well-known for their outstanding soft focus properties"

SUN CARE

Flawless gives a soft, powdery feel to the formulation.

COLOUR CORRECTING AND GLOWING SKIN Radiance is a claim that is here to stay as consumers desire to have skin with a soft radiant glow without too much shine or gloss. They want just a little touch of something, barely there yet impactful, and although there are many products to choose from in the RonaFlair portfolio, in this instance RonaFlair White Sapphire stands out.

This functional filler, the INCI name of which is Synthetic Sapphire, is a valuable option which creates radiance, improves the colour and the texture of a formulation, and imparts a smooth, gliding velvety feeling on skin. Because of its unique INCI, White Sapphire supports a gemstone claim on the final product, making it precious indeed.

A highly desirable trait in a sun care product is that of colour correction – hiding small imperfections, instantly balancing out skin tones and providing optimal skin coverage and radiance.

RonaFlair Balance offers colour correcting benefits. There are four pigments in the range, each with a slightly different function, and two or three colours can be combined, in specific ratios, to address almost any type of skin tone correction. The range includes: 1. Balance Gold provides a high chroma.

Even at low concentrations, it will achieve skin tone modification. On lighter skins it can balance out a slightly reddish skin while on darker complexions it will brighten the skin tone, providing an even, glowing finish.

2. Balance Red is very versatile. It can lighten a pale or greyish skin tone, and can add a natural freshness and luminosity to any skin type.

3. Balance Blue is more discrete in its effect when compared to red or gold, but it is perfect for compensating for slightly yellowish undertones in the skin.

4. Balance Green has proven its worth in various efficacy studies, performing as per the claim: combatting redness in the skin without creating a mask-like effect. This is particularly relevant when so many people suffer from skin irritation and sensitivity, exacerbated by constantly wearing masks.

PRODUCTS TO IMPROVE A FORMULATION Now that we have addressed aspects of correcting the appearance of the skin and, most importantly, protecting skin from harmful UV rays, let’s look at how to improve a formulation. By adding RonaFlair Extender W with its super oil absorbing properties, you can reduce the oily sensation that sunscreen products often tend to leave on skin. This benefit is especially important for people with naturally oily or acne-prone skin.

Another way to reduce a sense of tackiness and promote a gliding smooth application is by adding RonaFlair Soft Sphere. This special functional filler comprises platelets and spheres which slip over one another as the cream formulation is smoothed into the skin, creating a sensation of well-being and luxurious feeling on skin.

There are many actives you can add to sunscreens to elevate them to the level of skin care products. These include antioxidants with free radical scavenging properties such as RonaCare AP or super moisturisers such as RonaCare Ectoin, while the RonaFlair functional filler range gives instant and visible results – ultimately offering quick returns on wise formulation investments. • Merck – www.merck4cosmetics.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2021

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SUN CARE

Optimising vitamin D in cosmetics to achieve D-Skin Vitamin D deficiency is a global problem affecting over 1 billion people.1 It urgently needs to be addressed to prevent morbidity, mortality and increased expenses related to treating associated chronic illnesses.2 The active ingredient Nectaria Lithops from Vytrus Biotech is proven to stimulate skin to produce and synthesise its own vitamin D to bridge the gap between vitamin D deficiency and achieving a healthy glow. By Ò Expósito, A Guirado, D Robustillo, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz and M Gibert of Vytrus Biotech

D

escribed as ‘the sun vitamin’, vitamin D is a steroid with a hormone-like activity. It regulates the functions of over 1 000 genes and is essential for growth and development. Current research indicates that vitamin D deficiency is associated with several illnesses such as heart and autoimmune diseases, amongst others.3 Although there is clinical evidence that links the deficiency to different illnesses and physiological malfunctions, less is known about the role of vitamin D in the skin. As it is synthesised topically and distributed throughout the body, vitamin D has a direct effect on skin health and appearance. Vytrus Biotech has been deepening its R&D in this field and how to apply it to cosmetics.

D-SKIN – A NEW CONCEPT IN COSMETICS Represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, Vytrus Biotech proposes a new concept, known as D-Skin, which increases vitamin D and improves skin’s appearance.

The results include: • dewy skin • D-lighted skin • vitamin D-enriched skin • skin-deep hydration • a healthier D-approach to sun care Associated with well-being and health, a plump

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Did you know?

Up to 90% of vitamin D is produced by exposing our skin to sunshine and the remainder comes from diet. Natural diet, which most humans consume, contains little vitamin D. and luminous appearance of the skin not only favours, but also radiates youth. There are two factors that directly influence the optical properties of the skin and define a D-Skin to capture and radiate light: skin tone and the texture or quality of skin’s surface.

NEW CELL NECTAR FOR A D-SKIN Inspired by nature, Nectaria Lithops (INCI: Lithops Pseudotruncatella Callus Lysate) is a plant stem cell active ingredient that optimises skin’s microenvironment and stimulates vitamin D synthesis to strengthen, revitalise, volumise and improve the glow of faded skin to achieve D-Skin.

Thanks to its mechanism of action (see Figure 1), the active ingredient boosts vitamin D production by the epidermal cells to create an optimal skin environment, hydrate skin’s deepest layers, increase dewiness and cheek volume, and improve microcirculation and skin tone and texture. This innovative approach is based on improving the cutaneous structure, creating an adequate structural space for

Figure 1: Mechanism of action of Nectaria Lithops

vitamin D production while boosting deep water reserves. This is possible thanks to the Lithops culture, which is rich in biomimetic glycocalyx-derived glycoconjugates, organic acids and polyphenols.

BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY Several in vitro tests were performed to understand and demonstrate the mechanism of action of the active ingredient.

The product’s antioxidant effect was measured by an enzymatic DPPH assay. A solution of ascorbic acid at 16.5ppm was used as the positive control. It was demonstrated that Nectaria Lithops captured 42% of the free radical DPPH versus the untreated control, showing an antioxidant effect comparable to that of ascorbic acid (50%).

The enzymatic collagenase activity was measured in the absence or presence of

SUN CARE

Figure 2: Demonstration of vitamin D synthesis in cell cultures

Figure 3: Evaluation of skin dewiness improvement

the active ingredient. EDTA at 5mg/mℓ was used as the positive control. Nectaria Lithops inhibited the collagenase activity by 82% versus the untreated control, preventing collagen degradation. This activity was comparable to the effect of EDTA (89% inhibition).

Another enzymatic antioxidant effect was assessed, in this case to determine

the product’s capacity to inhibit lipid peroxidation. Nectaria Lithops demonstrated an 82% inhibition versus the untreated control, comparable to a vitamin E derivative (31.25µ/mℓ), used as the positive control.

The regenerating effect of Nectaria Lithops was demonstrated in the time it took for the proliferation of fibroblasts. This was boosted by 17% at a dosage of 0.01%, reaching up to 26% at 1% dosage. This improvement of cell viability was observed in a suppressed medium (low in growth factors).

In the following in vitro tests, the active ingredient was applied to cell cultures of fibroblasts and keratinocytes in three different situations (see Figure 2) to ascertain its behaviour during non-irradiated (minimal exposure to light), irradiated (3 x 2mW/cm², equivalent to 20 minutes per day of sun exposure), and UV light + an SPF 50 sun cream (completely blocking UV, from 3 x 2mW/cm² to 0mW/cm²).

Nectaria Lithops increased the synthesis of vitamin D by 77% versus the untreated control, and even more so when the HDF were exposed to UV irradiation (112% versus the untreated control). An increase was also noted when the

Figure 4: Evaluation of the increase in cheek volume

fibroblasts were UV irradiated and an SPF 50 sun cream was applied on top of the culture (119% versus the untreated control).

An increase in vitamin D synthesis in the keratinocytes (HaCaT) versus untreated controls was measured in all three conditions: 64% when non-irradiated; 63% when UV irradiated and 57% when UV irradiated with the application of an SPF 50 sun cream. In the untreated controls, the presence of lumisterol was not detected in any of the three situations.

D-SKIN th r ou g h the s kin

Savannah Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd www.savannah.co.za Head Office: +2711 856 4500

www.vytrus.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2021

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SUN CARE

Figure 6: Deep skin hydration evaluated using a hyperspectral camera

Figure 5: Evaluation of the increase in water retention capacity

Finally, an increase in the levels of lumisterol synthesis in keratinocytes (HaCaT) was measured in the three different conditions analysed. Again, in the untreated controls the presence of lumisterol was not detected in any of the three.

These assays on vitamin D and lumisterol synthesis boosting lead to an interesting conclusion: there is no need to choose between having skin protected from the sun by using sunscreen and bringing the beneficial properties to skin health by topically optimising the levels of vitamin D. This reveals a new opportunity for exploring biotechnology advances in the sun care market.

CLINICAL EVALUATION Several clinical trials demonstrated the efficacy of Nectaria Lithops on the skin of volunteers.

The first in vivo test was performed on a panel of 40 volunteers aged between 20 and 64. The study was double-blind and placebocontrolled (half of the volunteers applied a placebo cream and the other half applied a cream containing Nectaria Lithops), twice daily for 56 days. The assay was carried out during the pandemic among volunteers with low levels of vitamin D. Several parameters were analysed to ascertain the performance of a cream containing 1.5% of the active ingredient.

The first marker analysed was skin dewiness, which represents the ratio between diffuse brightness (luminosity) and specular brightness (oiliness). Nectaria Lithops increased skin dewiness by 17% versus placebo, improving skin’s luminosity and reducing its oiliness (see Figure 3). This results in a skin perfecting and mattifying effect, enhancing skin’s tone and texture.

The volunteers’ cheek volume was measured by 3D volume face analysis, where the blue areas on Figure 4 indicate a gain in volume versus the initial time of the treatment.

After applying a cream containing 1.5% of the active, volunteers’ cheek volume significantly increased by 1.95cm³ (3%) and up to 3.5cm³ (4%), versus the placebo, providing a dermal filler-like effect (compared

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"This reveals a new opportunity for exploring biotechnology advances in the sun care market "

Figure 7: Evaluation of StO2 (vol. 2) and THI (vol. 3)

to hyaluronic acid dermal injections, which increase cheek volume by at least 5cm³).

Vitamin D deficiency is related to epidermal barrier dysfunction³. Subjects with low levels of vitamin D have drier skin, with lower water content. Furthermore, the assay was carried out during the COVID-19 pandemic. The hydration levels of volunteers, measured by corneometry, significantly decreased in all the placebo groups (p<0.001): 10% in full face; 7% in the front, and 11% in mask zone.

However, treatment with Nectaria Lithops prevented a decrease in skin hydration, significantly increasing the water retention capacity of the volunteers compared with the placebo (p<0.05) (see Figure 5).

In a panel consisting of 30 volunteers (aged 21 to 62 years old), half applied the placebo cream while the other half applied 1.5% of the active ingredient in a cream twice daily for 56 days. This assay was also performed during the pandemic. Once again, selecting volunteers with low vitamin D levels was a key aspect to analyse the efficacy of the active.

A hyperspectral camera, which permits the investigation of the deepest layer of the epidermis and the dermo-epidermal junction (1mm depth), was used to measure the tissue water index (TWI) to evaluate the deep skin hydration levels. As seen on Figure 6, the yellow, orange and red areas indicate higher TWI (higher deep hydration). These results show that Nectaria Lithops demonstrated a 17% TWI increase versus initial time compared with the placebo (full face measurement).

OXYGENATION AND MICROCIRCULATION Skin vitamin D synthesis helps to maintain a healthy blood microcirculation.4 Subjects

with low levels of vitamin D have worse microcirculation. Furthermore, the assay was carried out during the COVID-19 pandemic.

StO2 (oxyhaemoglobin) analyses tissue oxygenation, which is an indirect way to check microcirculation (i.e. better microcirculation shows higher oxygenation of the tissue).

While the placebo significantly reduced the StO2 parameter, the treatment with the active ingredient did not significantly reduce StO2, and in fact showed a 34% increase versus the placebo treatment (see Figure 7 vol. 2).

The Tissue Haemoglobin Index (THI – total haemoglobin, O2 and CO2, i.e. oxyhaemoglobin plus deoxyhaemoglobin) indicates that when analysed together with the StO2 parameter, a balance between CO2 and O2 is achieved.

Therefore, the active ingredient reduces the THI by 16% versus the placebo, confirming Nectaria Lithops’ improvement of the oxygenation and microcirculation of the skin (see Figure 7 vol. 3). •

REFERENCES: 1. M.F. Holick and T.C. Chen. 2008. Vitamin D deficiency: a worldwide problem with health consequences.

American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, vol. 87 (4), pp.

1080S–1086S. 2. C. Palacios and L. Gonzalez. 2014. Is vitamin D deficiency a major global public health problem?

Journal of Steroid Biochemistry & Molecular Biology, vol. 144, pp. 138–145.

3. Calvo MS, Whiting SJ, Barton CN. 2007. Vitamin D intake: a global perspective of current status. J Nutr; 135: 310-7.

4. Kin, D-H. 2020. Vitamin D and Endothelial function.

Nutrients. Feb; 12(2): 575.

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com

SUN CARE

Sunscreen Simulator 4.0

launched with enhanced functionality BASF’s Care Creations has refined the functionality and scope of its Sunscreen Simulator. The latest launch of version 4.0 of the virtual laboratory provides formulators and manufacturers with even more options for digitally defining the UV protection of a sun protection product.

T

oday’s UV filters from BASF can effectively protect even very sensitive skin against high levels of ultraviolet radiation. As the industry benchmark for the past 20 years, BASF’s Sunscreen Simulator is the most powerful tool for supporting sun care producers in creating highest-quality, customer-oriented sun protection.

"The integration of the EcoSun Pass is a tremendous step forward for formulators " Sunscreen Simulator 4.0 offers an updated, customisable user interface.

The new cockpit functionality guides users through the simulator and expands options for creating and managing projects and personal data.

Did you know?

The BASF Sunscreen Simulator serves as a recognised benchmark in the industry for determining the sun protection factor (SPF). In addition to the known performance parameters (SPF, UVA protection, photostability), it is now also possible to perform calculations to protect against blue light irradiation and the generation of free radicals.

Access to helpful scientific support has also been integrated into the cockpit.

“The integration of the EcoSun Pass is a tremendous step forward for formulators.

In addition to UV performance, they can now also directly check the environmental impact of the selected UV filter systems,” explains Dr Myriam Sohn from BASF’s sun care global technical centre.

NEW SOLUBILISER SIMULATOR The solubiliser simulator is also entirely new. As part of the Sunscreen

Simulator, it evaluates the efficacy of the combination of UV filters and emollients and provides information about the naturalness (as defined by ISO16128) of the emollients.

Cost-effective in-silico testing and unlimited real-time calculations now go beyond the SPF and UVA metrics and include prediction of blue light and free radical protection. In addition to the simulation of the performance, the environmental impact of the selected UV filter system can now also be directly evaluated with the EcoSun Pass.

The BASF Digital Sun Protection Lab also provides invaluable support to formulators in the first stage of the development of a new sunscreen. •

Sunscreen Simulator – www.carecreations.basf.com/ sunscreen-simulator

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2021

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PACKAGING PROFILES

Marchesini Group presents Extra for live streaming

M

archesini Group has developed a new solution to stay even closer to clients. The solution follows on from the incredible success of X Days, which were the digital shows hosted by the group throughout 2020 to present its latest technology advancements to the world in the absence of trade fairs.

With the global pandemic still preventing travel and close contact between people, the group has decided to create Extra, an interactive digital platform enabling users to explore and get better acquainted with the company’s vast range of solutions on the basis of their requirements.

The new platform was revealed during an exclusive live show at the Teatro Comunale: a historic and artistic location in Bologna, Italy, which inspired the founders of Italy’s Packaging Valley. During the show, Marchesini Group presented its original

Did you know?

Accessed via www.marchesini.com/ extra – Extra features three innovative tools that allow users to fully immerse themselves in Marchesini technology.

These are X Solutions, X Talks, and X Live Tour. Users are encouraged to register online to access these complimentary virtual tools.

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maintenance: a strategic tool based on machine learning technology in order to improve performance, efficiency and productivity in the factory.

Marchesini Group, as a market leader in automatic pharmaceutical and cosmetic packaging machines, is investing a lot of resources in artificial intelligence and digital transformation to transform all these capabilities into values for their customers.

The webinar was broadcast live in June from the new multimedia studio set up at the digital events once again characterised by the X of ‘extraordinary’, which symbolises the group’s creativity and capacity to meet clients’ needs with customised solutions.

AVAILABLE IN SIX LANGUAGES The X Solutions consist of short presentations aimed at illustrating the wide range of machines and lines provided by Marchesini Group for each product type, from processing solutions to end of line.

All content is available in six languages and enriched with the contribution of SEA Vision, a partner specialising in vision systems for automated inline inspection during packaging operations.

The first two X Solutions are dedicated to technologies for filling, inspecting, labelling and packaging vials and syringes – the most widely used packaging solutions for injectable liquid pharmaceutical products, including vaccines. The solutions connected to other pharmaceutical industry products (such as blisters, ampoules and many other medical devices) will subsequently be examined on a month-to-month basis.

headquarters in Pianoro, Bologna.

EXCLUSIVE OFFERINGS The new platform also supports exclusive X Live Tours of the group’s production facilities to get a close look at the machines and lines in action. Each plant is ready to digitally greet guests from all-over the world. Sales and product managers are available to answer any questions in real time in a one-on-one live guided tour.

This service, popular with customers since the start of the pandemic, has been enhanced to make the digital service analysis sessions even more interactive.

The platform includes a scheduling app which allows the customers to choose the technology they wish to see and the time they wish to schedule a meeting.

The new platform also includes the already established X Days, a precursor of the Marchesini Group’s digital revolution. •

X TALKS AND X LIVE TOUR Each X Solutions will be associated with a specific X Talks. These are live 30-minute webinars that enable users to interact directly with a relevant area manager.

The first talk focused on new predictive

Contact details Cell: 082 460 2766 Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za Web: www.mgsaprojects.co.za or www.marchesini.com

OUR BATTLE

IN A BOTTLE DISCOVER MARCHESINI GROUP’S PACKAGING LINES FOR VACCINES

extra.marchesini.com MGSA Projects (Pty) Ltd T. +27 (O) 82 460 2766 myles@mgsaprojects.co.za www.mgsaprojects.co.za

INSPIRED BY THE EXTRAORDINARY

Marchesini Group S.p.A. Via Nazionale, 100 - Pianoro Bologna - Italy sales@marchesini.com

SIGNUP

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PACKAGING PROFILES

Novopak installs a new production line to manufacture tubes

N

ovopak was established in 2003 and is based in Midvaal, Gauteng.

The company offers plastic packaging solutions for the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, baby care and home care industries.

The company takes advantage of its vast experience and knowledge in the industry to offer a complete service, not only in South Africa but across the globe. Novopak also believes in exceeding expectations and providing our customers with quality, service and commitment.

TUBES FOR VARIOUS APPLICATIONS Novopak has been manufacturing and printing tubes for over 18 years. The packaging producer is particularly proud of its complete squeezable tube plant where it is fully equipped to manufacture seamless tubes from start to finish using a mono extrusion process.

Novopak offers a vast range of seamless tube sizes, from a 19mm lip balm diameter

Novopak’s head office and packaging plant in Midvaal, Gauteng

"Novopak is able to manufacture more tubes at a much faster speed, reducing lead times and increasing its output volume" to a 50mm diameter, or 10mℓ to 250mℓ fill capacity.

In order to keep up with the demands of squeezable plastic tubes, Novopak is pleased to announce that it recently added a new production line of manufacturing tubes to its existing two lines. With the new line, Novopak is able to manufacture more tubes at a much faster speed, reducing lead times and increasing its output volume.

Packaging solutions produced by Novopak

CLOSURES, PACKS AND PRINTING SERVICES All its closures, screw and flip-caps are manufactured in house. Novopak offers offset printing and can assist with artwork to ensure the end result is aesthetically pleasing packaging. It manufactures bottles, jars and tubs with both exclusive and nonexclusive moulding. • Contact details Tel: 081 493 4123 Web: www.novopak.co.za Email: sales@novopak.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2021

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PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

Zinc: the health advantages and protective benefits

The fundamental importance of zinc for humans was first recognised in 1963. At the time, only three enzymes were known which require zinc as a cofactor. Today, it is common knowledge that over 300 enzymes and over 1 000 transcription factors rely on zinc in order to function.1 In this article, experts from Dr. Paul Lohmann explore the wonders of zinc.

Z

inc shows a number of attractive and health-promoting properties for external and/or topical applications.

Above all, its anti-inflammatory, wound healing, antioxidative and antibacterial effects make it a versatile additive for products related to personal care, as well as skin and oral care.2, 3 Due to these effects, zinc salts play an important role in the development and application of dermatological products.

Various forms of acne have been treated with preparations containing zinc salts such as zinc oxide for quite some time now. Interestingly, the efficiency of the antibacterial effect of zinc oxide depends on its particle size – the smaller the particles, the stronger the growth inhibition.4

"Providing the body with an adequate supply of zinc is essential at any age and for both sexes" In topical applications, the antioxidative effect of zinc is especially useful in sunscreen products. Zinc reduces the oxidative stress that is caused by the intensive solar radiation on skin.5 At the same time, microfine zinc oxide absorbs and reflects longwave UV-A radiation quite effectively, additionally generating physical protection.6

ORAL CARE Gram-negative bacteria settle in the oral cavity in the course of hours even with proper oral care. They cause unpleasant odours (bad breath, or halitosis) due to their transient metabolites (volatile sulphur-containing compounds, or VSC).

The mechanical removal of bacterial plaque via thorough teeth cleaning counteracts this and protects the teeth from damage by caries.

When zinc salts are added to toothpaste or mouthwash, the effect remains in the oral cavity approximately two to three hours after teeth cleaning by binding to the mucosa

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elements of the saliva and the membranes of the bacteria.

During this time, the zinc blocks specific receptors on the membrane of the bacteria. This significantly inhibits their spread and propagation. 6 As a consequence, the development of bad breath is reduced substantially.7

AVOIDING DEFICIENCY Providing the body with an adequate supply of zinc is essential at any age and for both sexes. Nevertheless, it is estimated that two billion people are threatened by a chronic zinc deficiency, mostly due to an unbalanced, high-dose phytate diet.1 Illnesses such as malabsorption syndrome, liver diseases, chronic kidney diseases, sickle-cell disease and other chronic illnesses can also lead to a zinc deficiency.1 When chronic, the deficiency leads to growth disorders, immune weaknesses and cognitive deficits, among others. In addition, recurrent infections caused by a Zinc deficiency also drastically reduce a person’s life expectancy.1 Other illnesses related to zinc deficiency include an increased susceptibility to infection, dermatitis and delayed wound healing. In particular, older people with this deficiency are more inclined to lose muscle mass while gaining fatty tissue due to the inhibited protein biosynthesis linked to this deficiency. 8

ZINC FOR VARIOUS AGE GROUPS The diverse physiological requirements for zinc as well as its immune-stimulating effect make it an important mineral for all age groups. Just as crucial for all age groups is its capacity to reduce oxidative stress and reduce the risk of cancer.

Children and adolescents require sufficient quantities of zinc for optimal growth. An unhindered protein biosynthesis, in particular, ensures the best possible development of muscles and the nervous system.

Men during the years of sexual activity require zinc in sufficient quantities for optimal sexual function and a normal testosterone level. Men suffering from idiopathic infertility can, under certain circumstances, restore their fertility with the help of a sufficient supply of Zinc.9 Older people require zinc in sufficient quantities to prevent age-related macular degeneration and neurodegenerative illnesses, among others.

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS Zinc deficiencies can be effectively handled with corresponding dietary supplements. In this case, the market offers a wide selection of delivery forms, which range from tablets, chewable and effervescent tablets, sachets and shots to drink powders and enriched beverages.

Several zinc salts can be used in dietary supplements. In particular, organic salts such as zinc l-ascorbate, zinc l-aspartate

PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

Did you know?

Zinc is often used in deodorants and foot care products thanks to its antibacterial and resulting odour-inhibiting effect.

In both applications, zinc salts have proven themselves over the long term.10, 11

and zinc bisglycinate are characterised by a particularly good bioavailability, which makes them especially attractive for applications in dietary supplements.

Dr. Paul Lohmann®, represented locally by Nautilus Chemicals, is a leading manufacturer and provider of high value mineral salts for the food, nutritional supplement and pharmaceutical industry. Since 1886, a high level of flexibility and an innovative spirit enables Dr. Paul Lohmann to respond to changing needs in the market. Customers can profit from the broadest available portfolio of high value minerals, with more than 400 products in a range of qualities, designed to

provide optimum performance across a wide range of applications.

In the GMP and FSSC 22000/ISO 22000 certified facilities, mineral salts are produced at quality levels stipulated by pharmacopoeias, regulatory food guidelines or tailored according to customers’ specifications. Dr. Paul Lohmann also carries out product and application development in close cooperation with customers. This includes the adaptation of chemical and physical parameters such as bulk density, wettability, particle size, purity or pH-value. •

REFERENCES: 1. Prasad, A.S.: Discovery of Human Zinc Deficiency: Its Impact on Human Health and Disease. Adv Nutr March 2013 Adv Nutr vol. 4: 176-190, 2013 2. Gupta, M., Mahajan, V.K, Mehta, K.S., Chauhan, P.S.: Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review. Dermatol Res Pract. 2014; 2014: 709152.

3. Atmaca, S., Gül, K., Çiçek, R.: The Effect of Zinc On Microbial Growth. Tr. J. of Medical Sciences 28 (1998) 595-597 4. Yamamoto, O.: Influence of particle size on the antibacterial activity of Zinc oxide. International Journal of Inorganic Materials. Volume 3, Issue 7, November 2001, Pages 643–646 5. Pinnell, S.R.: Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress, and topical antioxidant protection. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 48, Issue 1, January 2003, Pages 1–22 6. Hu, D., Sreenivasan, P.K., Zhang, Y.P, De Vizio, W.: The effects of a Zinc citrate dentifrice on bacteria found on oral surfaces. Oral Health Prev Dent. 2010;8(1):47-53.

7. Navada, R., Kumari, H., Le, S., Zhang, J.: Oral malodor reduction from a Zinc-containing toothpaste. J Clin Dent. 2008;19(2):69-73.

8. Hahn, A., Schuchardt, J.-P.: Mineralstoffe. B.Behr´s Verlag GmbH, 2011 9. Netter, A., Nahoul, K., Hartoma, R.: Effect of Zinc Administration on Plasma Testosterone, Dihydrotestosterone, and Sperm Count. Archives of Andrology - Journal of Reproductive Systems, Volume 7, 1981 - Issue 1 10. Sharquie, K.E., Noaimi, A.A., Hameed, S.D.: Topical 15% Zinc Sulfate Solution Is an Effective Therapy for Feet Odor. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, Vol. 3 No. 3, 2013, pp. 203-208.

11. Kanlayavattanakul, M., Lourith, N.: Body malodours and their topical treatment agents. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33: 298–311

Dr. Paul Lohmann – www.lohmann4minerals.com Nautilus Chemicals – info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

Zinc for Health and Wellness Stay healthy and well with Zinc ◆ Strengthens immune system ◆ Supports optimal growth in children ◆ Zinc◆ Ascorbate ◆ Bisglycinate ◆ Citrate ◆ Malate ◆ Sulfate

local agent:

T: +27 21 140 0308 E: info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JULY 2021

37

PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

Enhancing health by controlling inflammation and oxidative stress Inflammation plays a central role in fighting infection and repairing injuries.1 However, a failure of the body to reduce inflammation to healthy, baseline levels results in progressive tissue damage and chronic ill health.2 At the core of many major illnesses, such as cardiovascular disease, asthma and COPD, obesity, diabetes and various forms of cancer, is chronic inflammation. In this article, HBC explores the benefits of OmeGo – which has a full spectrum of 21 different fatty acids – to maintain healthy cholesterol and cardiovascular function.

C

hronic inflammation tends to co-exist with oxidative stress and one helps to sustain the other. 3 Reactive oxygen species (ROS) directly damage the body, generating further inflammatory cytokines. 4 One consequence of oxidative stress is the production of oxidised LDL (oxLDL), which is a highly inflammatory blood lipid and an independent risk factor for developing cardiovascular disease, including angina, heart attacks and stroke. 5 Oxidised LDL also appears to be linked to respiratory health, helping to sustain and exacerbate the bronchial inflammation seen in asthma and COPD (or smokers’ lung). 6,7 It is well-recognised that the diet can provide both supportive and damaging elements to health. 8 For instance, the regular consumption of fish has shown numerous health benefits driven by the antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects of the polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) contained in the oil element of the fish.9 Fish oil supplementation is now commonly used to attempt to gain the benefits of eating whole fish. However, epidemiological data and clinical trials

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with fish oil supplementation have shown rather inconsistent outcomes.

This is probably not surprising when one considers that omega-3 oils only contain EPA and DHA but whole fish contains many more elements, including the third omega-3, DPA.10 PUFAs are turned into specialised pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) by the body and each SPM has its individual inflammation-resolving benefits.11 Therefore, supplementation with whole fish oil has the potential to provide broader antiinflammatory actions if the individual anti-inflammatory elements retain their natural levels of bioactivity. For this to be achieved, the fish must be fresh and any processing minimal to avoid oxidative damage to the components of the oil. This does not, however, represent any of the profiles of omega-3 concentrates on the market, so there is a need for a next-generation oil.

Did you know?

OmeGo has a four-year shelf life, which is more than twice the average of the omega-3 category on the market today.

A NEXT-GENERATION SALMON OIL Represented locally by IMCD South Africa, Hofseth BioCare’s (HBC) OmeGo is salmon oil that is gently liberated from the offcuts of fresh Norwegian Atlantic salmon. The company’s proprietary process involves the use of proteolytic enzymes so that there is no processing of the oil. Instead, it is gently released at low temperatures.

OmeGo contains all 21 omegas contained in whole fish, has low TOTOX levels and very low levels of free fatty acids (FFAs). The oil delivers wide-ranging health benefits based around its broad anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. It is a natural oil

PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

that is free of any additives. It does not have any antioxidants/vitamin E added for stability.

STRONG ANTIOXIDANT EFFECTS A study on healthy subjects assessed the impact of OmeGo, compared with a coldpressed oil (algae oil), a standard omega-3 18/12 oil and sunflower oil, on oxLDL.12 OmeGo was the only oil to show a clinically and statistically significant reduction in oxLDL. Impressively, OmeGo’s oxLDL reduction was two to four times greater than the other oils. This appears to be a consequence of OmeGo containing all the omegas contained in whole fish, including DPA (docosapentaenoic acid).

" HBC continues to invest significantly in R&D to further elucidate the differentiated health benefits of OmeGo" HBC has a patent covering the effect of DPA on oxLDL. Oxidised LDL is highly inflammatory, accelerates atherosclerosis and is thereby an independent risk factor for cardiovascular disease. It also reflects the underlying levels of oxidative stress and is raised in patients suffering from inflammatory conditions, including heart disease and COPD.

initiating clinical trials on OmeGo in asthma and smokers’ lung. For the latter, the broad anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits of the oil are especially important. For asthma, the targeted eosinophilic inhibitory action should be especially beneficial.

As these elements contained in OmeGo that modulate EEF have not been described before and are unique to the product, HBC has filed a US patent application (630063274 04/07/2020).

REFERENCE: 1. Schmid-Schönbein GW. Analysis of inflammation.

Annu Rev Biomed Eng 2006; 8: 93-131.

2. Serhan CN. Treating inflammation and infection in the 21st century: new hints from decoding resolution mediators and mechanisms. Faseb j 2017; 31: 12731288.

3. Hartley A, Haskard D, Khamis R. Oxidized LDL and anti-oxidized LDL antibodies in atherosclerosis Novel insights and future directions in diagnosis and therapy<sup/>. Trends Cardiovasc Med 2019; 29: 22-26.

4. Sedgwick JB, Hwang YS, Gerbyshak HA, Kita H, Busse WW. Oxidized low-density lipoprotein activates migration and degranulation of human granulocytes.

Am J Respir Cell Mol Biol 2003; 29: 702-709.

5. Rhoads JP, Major AS. How Oxidized Low-Density Lipoprotein Activates Inflammatory Responses. Crit Rev Immunol 2018; 38: 333-342.

6. Can U, Yerlikaya FH, Yosunkaya S. Role of oxidative stress and serum lipid levels in stable chronic obstructive pulmonary disease. J Chin Med Assoc 2015; 78: 702-708.

COMMITTED TO CLINICAL RESEARCH HBC continues to invest significantly in R&D to further elucidate the differentiated health benefits of OmeGo. In immune health, the company has initiated phase 2 trial work with OmeGo in the treatment of adults with mild to moderate COVID-19. An initial outpatient study (NCT04465513) is almost complete, while a subsequent inpatient study is about to commence. The broad effects of OmeGo are anticipated to help rebalance the immune inflammatory response in COVID-19 infections and prevent them from becoming severe.

HBC is also about to initiate two phase 2 trials with OmeGo, one in asthma and another in COPD. Therefore, OmeGo’s targeted modulation of eosinophil function along with its broad antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects offer an attractive and highly relevant profile to potentially enhance the health of the two patient groups. •

REBALANCING AN OVERACTIVE IMMUNE SYSTEM

7. Shen Y, Yang T, Guo S, Li X, Chen L, Wang T, Wen F. Increased serum ox-LDL levels correlated with lung function, inflammation, and oxidative stress in COPD. Mediators Inflamm 2013; 2013: 972347.

8. Calder PC. Immunonutrition. Bmj 2003; 327: 117-118.

9. Calder PC. Marine omega-3 fatty acids and inflammatory processes: Effects, mechanisms and clinical relevance. Biochim Biophys Acta 2015; 1851: 469-484.

10. Drouin G, Rioux V, Legrand P. The n-3 docosapentaenoic acid (DPA): A new player in the n-3 long chain polyunsaturated fatty acid family.

Biochimie 2019; 159: 36-48.

11. Regidor PA, Mueller A, Sailer M, Gonzalez Santos F, Rizo JM, Egea FM. Chronic Inflammation in PCOS: The Potential Benefits of Specialized Pro-Resolving Lipid Mediators (SPMs) in the Improvement of the Resolutive Response. Int J Mol Sci 2020; 22.

12. B omi Framroze NS. The Effect of Dietary Oil Capsules on Reducing Serum Concentrations of Oxidized Low Density Lipoprotein- β2-Glycoprotein-I Complex.

Journal of Nutrition & Food Sciences 2013; 03.

13. Fahy JV. Type 2 inflammation in asthma--present in most, absent in many. Nat Rev Immunol 2015; 15: 57-65.

14. Avena-Woods C. Overview of atopic dermatitis. Am J Manag Care 2017; 23: S115-s123.

15. Stevens WW, Schleimer RP, Kern RC. Chronic Rhinosinusitis with Nasal Polyps. J Allergy Clin Immunol Pract 2016; 4: 565-572.

16. Framroze B, Heggdal H. An in vitro study to explore the modulation of eosinophil effector function in human allergic peripheral blood eosinophils using enzymatically extracted salmonid oil. Functional Foods in Health and Disease 2020; 10.

Hofseth BioCare – hofsethbiocare.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

HBC has identified minor lipid-soluble components contained within OmeGo which reduce the eosinophil effector function (EEF). Eosinophils are a type of white blood cell that helps the body to fight infection.

However, in some individuals eosinophils are overactive and cause inflammation, also referred to as type 2 inflammation.

This drives allergic reactions and results in conditions such as asthma, atopic dermatitis and allergic rhinitis.13, 14 & 15 To date, HBC’s research has demonstrated that standard fish oils, including krill oil, have very limited or no impact on EEF and do not contain these minor fractions.16 The work of HBC has also shown that those minor components in OmeGo significantly attenuate respiratory eosinophilic inflammation in models of induced asthma (data to be submitted for publication). HBC is in the process of

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PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

New report identifies collagen’s huge scope for further growth

Collagen peptides are a very promising health ingredient that are currently gaining momentum due to their positive impact on bones and joints and their ability to improve skin health. While collagen’s star is rising fast, could it just be a passing trend? Not according to industry experts, who say that the protein is set to become a major force in the health ingredients category. A report commissioned by PB Leiner, supplier of Solugel collagen peptides, reveals why.

A

ccording to an analysis conducted by research firm Frost & Sullivan, the market for collagen peptides – the hydrolysed and most bioavailable form of collagen – is already growing at about 8% a year (CAGR 2020 to 2024). However, sales are still a long way from their peak. With vast untapped potential to expand into new markets, applications and products, Frost & Sullivan expects collagen’s momentum to accelerate and its growth to reach new heights.

Comparisons between collagen peptides and other more mature health ingredients show that they are still very early in their development and the range of opportunities are considerable in terms of the number of applications and geographic regions.

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As a result, market penetration for collagen peptide ingredients and products remains relatively low across Europe, North America and Asia-Pacific. In the North American market, for example, the penetration rate of collagen peptides is estimated to be at least 35 times lower than that of omega 3, indicating huge potential for growth.

CRITICAL SUCCESS FACTORS These findings are published in a new report entitled ‘Is collagen here to stay?’, which PB Leiner commissioned from Frost & Sullivan.

The report indicates that, based on the developmental path followed by more mature health ingredients such as probiotics and omega 3, collagen peptides are still in the very early stages of their product lifecycle.

The analysis also finds that collagen peptides rank from ‘good’ to ‘excellent’ against the critical success factors for health ingredients. These include scientifically backed health claims, a well-defined end-user group, diversification of health benefits, and the capability to be incorporated into foods and beverages.

The authors of the report conclude that collagen peptides have all the necessary characteristics to become a highly successful ingredient, which will support the health of millions of people worldwide.

Tomasz Bochenski, senior consultant at Frost & Sullivan and lead researcher on the report, comments: “In comparison to other more mature health ingredient categories, collagen peptides are still at a relatively early stage of their evolution across all continents.

This means significant opportunities remain for manufacturers, retailers and investors.

Developing new applications for collagen peptides in terms of functionality and product innovation will further expand the market, allowing it to reach new customers who might

Did you know?

Collagen peptides have a long history of use as a supplement for human consumption. In Europe, the German abbess and scholar Hildegard von Bingen studied animal tissue extracts and recognised their potential to become a remedy for joint complaints. Von Bingen studies date back to the 12th century.

Meanwhile, in traditional Asian culture, collagen was used in cosmetics because it was believed to help keep skin young and tight.

not yet be aware of the many scientifically proven health benefits of collagen peptides.”

INCREASING SOPHISTICATION Cindy Dekeyser, global business intelligence manager at PB Leiner, added: “Frost & Sullivan’s analysis perfectly aligns with what we and other observers have seen: collagen peptides are starting to go mainstream, gaining wider acceptance and familiarity among consumers. This means that consumer requirements are becoming increasingly sophisticated, with more and more differentiation in product concepts and quality needed to stand out from the crowd. That is where we, as a global leader in collagen, step in: we assist our customers in translating trends into on-trend concepts. This customised support, ranging from market intelligence and new product development to technical support, significantly enhances customer success.”

Visit https://bit.ly/3woZUVG to download the full report ‘Is collagen here to stay? A fresh look at the market and its potential’. •

PB Leiner – www.pbleiner.com/en

PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

New mineral improves probiotic stability Swiss manufacturer Omya is developing a new mineral solution to ensure greater stability, performance and survival rates of probiotics during formulation and delivery to the gut. Omya is represented locally by CJP Chemicals.

T

he market for probiotic supplements to support healthy gut flora is booming. However, the microorganisms within these products are extremely sensitive. If exposed to excess moisture or heat, such as during spray drying, they may be damaged and lose their beneficial qualities. Therefore, a stabilising agent is essential. With its strong water-binding properties and significant buffering capacity, the functionalised mineral from Omya is a promising inorganic probiotic carrier.

NEW EXPERTISE IN PROBIOTIC PRODUCTION For the research performed at leading contract research company Nizo’s lab, Lactobacillus plantarum (strain WCFS1) – one of the most studied probiotics – was used as a model organism. The lactobacilli cultures

were mixed with either maltodextrin or Omya’s mineral solution and spray dried to evaluate their survival rates. To assess the efficiency of the stabilisers during digestion and accelerated shelf-life experiments, the resulting powders were separately blended with skim milk powder or pressed into tablets with lactose as an excipient.

A representative in vitro digestion model demonstrated a proof of principle. Omya’s mineral solution outperformed maltodextrin in both matrices – milk powder and lactose tablets – delivering up to 1 000 times the number of probiotic bacteria. In line with the digestion results, the functionalised mineral also showed significantly better stabilising effects in the milk formulation and lactose tablets compared to maltodextrin. The findings prove that the mineral can be used as a stabiliser for probiotics and pave the way

for a new expertise in probiotic production, supply chain and usage.

GREAT POSSIBILITIES FOR INNOVATION Stefan Lander, vice president consumer goods, group sales and marketing at Omya, comments: “Public awareness of gut health and its importance for wellbeing and immune health is growing. Furthermore, interest in supporting the immune system has increased massively, particularly in light of the pandemic.

More and more people want to support their intestinal flora with probiotics. Our new functionalised mineral offers lots of possibilities for innovative probiotic formulations and positionings.” • CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za

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PHARMA FOCUS: CAMs & HEALTH SUPPLEMENTS

The truth about gut health awareness

South Africans know that gut health is extremely important to their overall health and appreciate that taking probiotics can improve conditions such as stomach problems and immunity. Yet, according to research by Evexia Pharma, they are missing out on the health benefits of probiotics because their understanding of how they work is poor.

I

n South Africa, many are unaware that probiotics need to reach the lower intestine to be most effective and that stomach acid can destroy up to 90% of probiotic bacteria if they are not protected in some way.

These are the findings of an online survey conducted in April 2021 on behalf of Evexia Pharma, a pharmaceutical company based in the Western Cape, to comprehend consumers’ understanding and utilisation of probiotics.

Evexia Pharma recently launched Probitec in South Africa which utilises DuoCap capsules designed to dissolve at different pH levels and therefore release the probiotic only once it has passed through the stomach into the lower intestine.

"Stomach acid can destroy up to 90% of unprotected probiotic bacteria" According to Cameron du Toit, director of the pharmaceutical company, a total of 650 South African respondents participated in Evexia’s survey, and 78% of these believe gut health is extremely important to their health.

Yet less than half (34%) take a probiotic daily or regularly. Only 41% of doctors prescribe a probiotic at the same time as prescribing an antibiotic despite probiotics being essential to combatting antibiotic-induced harm caused in the microbiome.

“The findings of this research are clear,” say Du Toit. “South Africans know about

Did you know?

In addition to assisting improve conditions such as bloating, gastrointestinal discomfort and flatulence, probiotics also help build our immune systems and assist with anxiety.

This is because 70% of the immune system and 95% of serotonin sits in the gut.

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the importance of gut health and know that probiotics are associated with gut health, but they are missing out of the benefits because they know little more than that.”

TOP

10SURVEY HIGHLIGHTS

1. The vast majority of South Africans felt very healthy (75%) compared to a minority who didn’t (17%). Perceptions of feeling healthy took a dip in midlife (35 to 49) as life’s pressures grew but then improved from 50 years onwards.

2. While 78% of respondents believe gut health is extremely important to their health, less than half (34%) take a probiotic daily or regularly. Those most likely to take a probiotic daily were in the 50 to 69 years age bracket.

3. Respondents who took a probiotic every day felt much more positive about their health than those who didn’t. Taking a probiotic was also associated with much healthier lifestyle behaviours reflected in areas such as exercise and diet.

4. Dr Google is the key influencer for healthrelated info (52%), slightly out beating actual doctors and clinics (47%) and pharmacies and health shops (37%).

5. When it came to the most popular sources of health-related information, retail pharmacies such as Clicks and Dischem were being used just as much as specialist health websites.

6. Anxiety (71%) and stomach pain/problems (63%) were the two conditions respondents

suffered from most. However, respondents could not identify what their “stomach problems” were, indicating potential undiagnosed ailments (IBS, Candida etc..).

7. While probiotics were known to improve gut health and conditions such as stomach problems and immunity, the level of understanding around other ailments with proven associated benefits were not largely known (such as candida, lactose intolerance, bacterial vaginosis or anxiety).

8. Patients indicated that only 41% of doctors are prescribing a probiotic at the same time as prescribing an antibiotic.

9. The number one reason for why probiotics can be ineffective for patients is not known by the majority of respondents – 62% indicated that they did not know that stomach acid can destroy up to 90% of unprotected probiotic bacteria.

10.Many consumers (66%) did not know that probiotics need to reach the lower intestine to be most effective. At the same time, over half (54%) did not know that 70% of the immune system sits in the gut.

Probitec – probitec.co.za

NATURAL, SUSTAINABLE & BIO-DEGRADABLE

Introducing Hydrolite 7 green –

a truly unique and 100% bio-based ingredient

Symrise has just launched Hydrolite 7 green, leading a revolutionary new generation of green multifunctional ingredients. The unique seven-carbon alkanediol comes from 100% bio-based sources, derived from sustainably sourced castor bean oil. This one-of-a-kind multifunctional ingredient is supplied as a clear, colourless ingredient suitable for use in a variety of traditional or natural/green cosmetic formulations.

I

n recent years, the green trend has been gaining momentum with growing consumer interest in renewable raw material innovations and finished product development.

At the same time, 1,2-alkanediols have been increasingly used in the personal care industry as multifunctional ingredients since the introduction of Hydrolite 5 by Symrise 30 years ago. Thus, Hydrolite 7 green brings a longawaited response to the wish lists of consumers and formulators as the cosmetics industry has been seeking a nature-derived, biodegradable, liquid ingredient with multiple benefits which is packed into a single molecule and that offers good economics and shows important properties at low concentrations.

REDUCED FORMULATION COMPLEXITY With Hydrolite 7 green, Symrise offers an exclusive high purity bio-based liquid multifunctional, whose multiple benefits reduce formulation complexity while improving finished product properties.

A robust portfolio of patent applications underlines the unique properties of this multifunctional ingredient and ensures future global security of use for Symrise’s customers. “We continue to demonstrate our commitment to continuing innovation and sustainability, to the green transformation of cosmetic ingredients and the evolving needs of customers and consumers. We feel proud to present this latest member of our portfolio of quality products,” explains Dr Balint Koroskenyi, global product manager at Symrise. “It makes a complementary addition to the range of alkanediols and to the best multifunctionals overall.”

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"The distinctive and optimal chain length of Hydrolite 7 green enable water solubility and a liquid form that combines easy handling with high performance" liquid form that combines easy handling with high performance. It suits conventional as well as green formulations and has many key benefits, including: • acting as an antioxidant enhancer to increase the activity of antioxidants such as tocopherol • an excellent solubiliser of lipophilic cosmetic ingredients • product protection enhancement in synergy with many preservatives.

“Symrise R&D has spent years developing Hydrolite 7 green in order to address our customers’ expectations and to meet our high-quality standards. As a market leader, we had invested in research long before the green market trend emerged, anticipating future opportunities and market shifts. As a result, this truly novel and unique multifunctional ingredient makes its debut in cosmetics in 2021,” says Imke Meyer, vice president global innovation cosmetic ingredients at Symrise.

UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS, MULTIPLE BENEFITS

MEETING NEXTGENERATION CONSUMER NEEDS

The distinctive and optimal chain length of Hydrolite 7 green enable water solubility and a

Hydrolite 7 green stands out of the crowd with its unique chain length,

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purity, colourless and nearly odourless properties, offering convenience, a range of multifunctional benefits, and highlyeffective product protection enhancement in combination with preservatives.

“The optimal chain length combines strong performance and a liquid form. Due to its sourcing from the castor bean plant, the product is suitable for green labels. As an ingredient, it can increase the naturality index of conventional formulations. This may provide an alternative to traditional product protection in areas where multifunctionals currently available on the market fail to meet the challenge. Hydrolite 7 green is a testament to our leadership in innovation and our commitment to sustainability. As the leading supplier of modern product protection, we are always a step ahead,” adds Dr Koroskenyi. • Symrise – www.symrise.com

NATURAL, SUSTAINABLE & BIO-DEGRADABLE

Aloe-moss extract harmonises skin’s moisture flow A few years ago, Mibelle Biochemistry launched MossCellTec No.1, a ground-breaking innovative ingredient from biotechnologically produced moss. Now, the manufacturer has succeeded in creating a second active ingredient – MossCellTec Aloe.

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loe-moss, which is also known as Aloina aloides, has high water retention capacity and is considered a rare species. Mibelle Biochemistry’s culture technology MossCellTec enables the largescale and sustainable production of the endangered moss species and conveys the beneficial properties of aloe-moss for use in skin care applications.

Thanks to an intensified connexin-mediated cell-to-cell communication, MossCellTec Aloe optimally evens moisture distribution in the skin and reduces the volume and depth of wrinkles.

This and other active ingredients from Mibelle Biochemistry are available in South Africa from Carst & Walker.

REDUCED SIGNS OF SKIN-AGEING The efficacy of MossCellTec Aloe was investigated in a randomised, placebocontrolled clinical study on a group of 43 Caucasian women aged between 37 and 65 years with signs of ageing such as crow’s feet wrinkles. The women were split into two groups. One group applied a cream with 2% MossCellTec Aloe and the other applied the corresponding placebo cream on the entire face twice daily for 28 days.

Skin elasticity was assessed using cutometry and wrinkle volume and depth were measured by AEVA-HE fringe projection technique on day 0 and after 28 days. Treatment with the active

Did you know?

MossCellTec enables the largescale cultivation of moss cells in sterile conditions and in both a reproducible and sustainable way. The resulting large-scale production requires only a small quantity of plant material, which is carefully homogenised, cold-pressed and filtrated to produce the cosmetic ingredient. ingredient led to an improvement of skin elasticity of 3.1% compared to initial conditions. Wrinkle volume and depth were reduced with 2% MossCellTec Aloe by 13.1% and 8.2% respectively. • Carst & Walker – carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – mibellebiochemistry.com

MossCellTec™ Aloe Harmonizes the skin’s moisture flow • Improves hydration evenness • Activates cell-to-cell communication • Fades away signs of aging • Comforts dry skin

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

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NATURAL, SUSTAINABLE & BIO-DEGRADABLE

DISCOVER THE SOUL AND SCIENCE OF BEAUTY intoBeauty®

Evonik acquires Infinitec Activos In a move that boosts its system solutions portfolio, Evonik has signed a purchase agreement to acquire the privately owned technology-driven company Infinitec Activos. Based in Spain, this company focuses on the development and production of novel active delivery systems for cosmetic active ingredient applications.

T Have you already joined us on intoBeauty®? From within Evonik’s customer portal for the personal care industry, you have access to videos, information and documentation on our products and formulation concepts. After registering and entering intoBeauty®, you can explore the portal and experience interactive online tools 24/7 on any device.

Find out more about the world of your future personal care formulation and visit intobeauty.evonik.com! www.evonik.com/personal-care

Evonik Personal Care @EvonikPC @evonikpc

his latest acquisition continues the portfolio shift of Evonik’s life science division Nutrition & Care towards system solutions, which are characterised by high growth prospects and above average margin potential. By 2030, Nutrition & Care aims to increase the share of system solutions it offers from 20% to more than 50%.

“Proven active delivery systems offer great opportunities to innovate new cosmetic ingredients with scientifically proven claims. This allows our personal care customers to differentiate their brands,” says Yann d’Hervé, head of Evonik’s Care Solutions business line.

With its portfolio of natural-based active ingredients and seven delivery systems, the integration of Infinitec Activos into the Care Solutions business line reinforces Evonik’s position as a sustainable specialties partner, while further strengthening Nutrition & Care’s wide technology platform.

By combining its existing actives portfolio with the new delivery systems, Care Solutions’ capabilities are significantly enhanced in terms of generating new concepts for scientifically substantiated consumer cosmetic claims.

ACQUISITION TRAIL ENHANCES PRODUCT PORTFOLIO “We are convinced that the many synergies will not only bring benefits to our customers and both companies, but also create new opportunities across the entire personal care and beauty market value chain,” comments Alfonso Hidalgo, partner of Infinitec Activos.

The acquisition continues the strong trail of Nutrition & Care. Since 2016, the division has acquired 10 companies with robust and complementary technology positions, enhancing the entire product portfolio. The successful integration of the businesses it has acquired has opened new markets, accelerated the growth of the business line and created significant value.

The Infinitec Activos acquisition comprises 47 employees working at the company’s Barcelona Science Park head office, a manufacturing facility in Montornés del Vallès (Spain) and at the natural-based raw material producer, Naturethic. Founded in 2004, Infinitec Activos is home to a highly qualified, scienceand marketing-driven team whose research and innovation focuses on building the next generation of cosmetic delivery systems. Its customers include small independent brands as well as global key accounts.

Examples of the company’s renowned, actively targeted products include the cosmetic drone proprietary technology, as well as the next-generation of PLGA (poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid))-based delivery system. Evonik expects to leverage this and other intellectual property of Infinitec Activos in adjacent markets such as health care where it has already deployed its liposomal delivery technology. •

Evonik – personal-care.evonik.com/en

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COLOUR COSMETICS

How to formulate makeup with skin care benefits

Formulating foundations for darker skins has always been a challenge.

Previously, the options available have often been unsatisfactory, rarely providing quality solutions. In addition, awareness around sun damage has led to the additional demand for sun protection benefits in these formulations, presenting a challenge in terms of achieving coverage and protection without delivering an ashy appearance.

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n general, foundation colours are formulated using mineral oxides: titanium dioxide for white; and iron oxides for yellow, red and black.

Various combinations of these four basic colours make it possible to create an infinite number of shades.

Since they are mineral pigments, mineral oxides present themselves in the form of particle aggregates which are insoluble regardless of the media in which they are dispersed.

Furthermore, their refraction index is high which results in a high level of opacity. In this way, the coverage or transparency of a foundation can be adjusted simply by increasing or decreasing the total quantity of mineral pigments.

Finally, mineral oxides also have different crystalline structures and/ or different oxidation forms and/or different purity levels which will result in subtle yet visible variations in the tone of the pigment.

The challenge is that once the percentage of iron oxide in a formulation is increased to achieve a darker shade, the colour itself becomes duller and does not actually improve in terms of its vividness.

Although titanium dioxide is added to improve a foundation’s coverage, it can cause the foundation to leave a white residue on skin. This is the reason why increasing the pigment

doesn’t necessarily darken the shade but results in it becoming duller.

This graph shows that the more titanium dioxide is added to a formulation, the greater the reflective surface and coverage increases. Yet when adding iron oxide to increase the intensity of colour, the product becomes duller

Various grades of Sunjin’s titanium dioxides show that the larger the particle size the more light is reflected.

Although some light is transmitted when using a smaller particle size of titanium dioxide, when used in combination with iron oxide the colour will not appear as dull. One can see that the iron oxide reflects at certain wavelengths and some is transmitted. As a result, although increasing the colour, coverage will not be as effective as when some titanium dioxide is included in a formulation

BASF has identified a selection of its cosmetic actives which can be used to enhance makeup formulations with added skin care benefits

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COLOUR COSMETICS

GOING AGAINST THE ODDS According to Forbes.com, Amazon sales in the US tracked by McKinsey & Company in the four weeks up to April 2021 showed lip care and colour had the steepest decline in retail sales of any segment, with sales falling 15% and prices falling 28%.

Going against the odds, amid the coronavirus pandemic period a luxury beauty brand has emerged. Valdé Beauty launched last August with one particular item – a lipstick.

The Valdé lipstick collection is no ordinary lipstick; the brand owner says it took four years to be carefully crafted and formulated.

The lipstick case is shaped like a women’s armour with an intricate feathering detail, marking a symbol of freedom, and is hand-polished and coated with liquid gold. It is an artfully crafted accessory.

PIONEERING TIO2 PIGMENT In response to the aforementioned challenge, Sunjin Beauty Science has developed a titanium dioxide pigment that improves dark shade coverage and provides sun protection without affecting colour intensity or leaving a residue on the skin.

Suntitan-AS is a non-nano TIO2 product that is encapsulated within silica and surface coated with triethoxycaprylsilane. By encapsulating the particles in silica, the overall particle size of the pigment is increased to effectively reflect light, improving the coverage and colour intensity.

During testing, Suntitan-AS outperformed other TIO2 ingredients showing a 69.96% transparency on white index. This product is therefore ideal for use in dark shade foundations and is widely used in premium skin care and sun care applications for boosting SPF and to give an ultra-light texture feeling.

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SKIN CARE ACTIVES IN COLOUR COSMETICS Another trend that has continued to gain popularity among formulators is the use of skin care actives in makeup applications, particularly in foundations – though the trend is applicable to other makeup products.

According to BASF Care Creations, the crossover in functionality between facial makeup and skin care is increasing, with the foundations product family increasingly focused on delivering skin care benefits coupled with a professional looking finish. Foundations can even out complexions, not only to cover the appearance of dark spots and blemishes, but also to reduce these imperfections, and to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles as well as refine skin’s texture, leaving it softened, flawless and with a highdefinition image.

INNOVATIVE INGREDIENTS ON THE MARKET Many primers, foundations, concealers, and BB and CC creams now include skin care ingredients. This list includes a variety of active ingredients on offer from BASF Care Creations for colour cosmetic applications: • Actiwhite is a preservative-free synergistic complex which offers combined and rapidly visible in vivo efficacy on skin lightening and the reduction of age spots in just 14 days. This raw material conforms to the Ecocert standard for natural and organic cosmetics.

• Betapur visibly reduces pore size and the appearance of oily skin.

This powerful natural extract of wild mint promotes a healthy microbiota through the stimulation of the skin’s natural antibacterial system. It prevents the colonisation of opportunistic pathogens for pore minimisation and a reduction of open comedones and pustules.

• Purisoft is a plant peptidic fraction that is clinically proven to protect skin from pollution and to purify the skin,

"The crossover in functionality between facial makeup and skin care is increasing" offering an enhanced skin complexion and a healthy glow.

• X-pressin C is ideal for renewing the skin’s youthful appearance by visibly smoothing and softening the skin.

It works as an advanced exfoliating system produced from a high papain grade of Carica papaya which helps to refresh skin beauty. This advanced healthy glow-enhancing technology provides a gentle alternative to abrasive and irritating methods of skin exfoliation.

• Linefactor C improves skin’s texture and elasticity, whilst reducing wrinkle depth. It is an aqueous extract produced from Hibiscus abelmoschus which redensifies the dermis more efficiently than vitamin C and stimulates the synthesis of Aquaporine-3. It also allows the skin to recover from impaired barrier function.

This trend extends to other makeup products including lipsticks where selected lipo-soluble cosmetic actives can be included to nourish and repair the lips, restore moisture and smooth out the appearance of wrinkles and folds.

Eyes are the most important features of your face and are often the first to show signs of ageing and tiredness.

BASF Beauty Creations has therefore identified certain cosmetic actives to enhance the beauty of the eye contour and eyelashes and improve the hold of makeup.

The ingredients showcased in this article, as well as formulation advice, are available locally from Botanichem. Contact Robyn Brown for more information. •

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS

SA’s aerosol industry is stepping up!

Looking back at what was a game-changing year, the AMA said the industry had adapted to the challenges and demands brought about by COVID-19. This was the message at the 58th AGM of the AMA which took place on 24 June. P&C Review attended the virtual event to learn more about the latest developments in the South African aerosols industry.

By Abby Vorster

O

ver the past 12 months, aerosol manufacturers in South Africa have shown their resilience. Guided by the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (AMA), they have embraced advances in technology and virtual communication platforms to stay abreast of market demands and global developments, and quickly adapted to produce essential goods such as hand sanitisers, foggers and disinfectants.

Extended producer responsibility, POPI Act compliance, virtual training, the AMA Approved Mark, the tin plate steel saga and regulatory affairs such as the implementation of GHS and the re-registration of disinfectants by the NRCS continue to be key areas of focus for the association.

GHS IMPLEMENTATION The implementation of GHS is on everyone’s lips. After many years of uncertainty on GHS since 2007, the Regulations for Hazardous Chemical Agents were promulgated on 29 March.

Dr John Greathead, AMA’s technical advisor, said that regulations define substances and mixtures used in the workplace, which are classified in a specific range of GHS hazard categories as hazardous chemical agents.

“The impact of the regulations is that all aerosol products, except medicines and cosmetics, have to be classified according to GHS for all relevant hazard categories and labelled accordingly, and must have a GHS compliant safety data sheet,” he explained.

Cosmetic products such as deodorants and pharmaceuticals such as inhalers are not hazardous according to GHS classifications.

However, home care products have to be classified according to GHS hazards as they are used by domestic workers and cleaners in homes and offices etc.

"The industry had adapted to the challenges and demands brought about by COVID-19" “In addition to the GHS flammability warnings, which the AMA has been recommending for the last while, aerosols will have to carry the GHS warnings for any of the other hazard categories for which the contents of the aerosol may be classified,” Dr Greathead added.

He recommended using software from Lissam South Africa to help manufacturers with the classification of all products in accordance with GHS, which is bound to be a challenge.

Aerosol manufacturers may attend the introduction and advanced GHS training course offered by RPMASA, though the depth of understanding achieved from this course is not clear. UNITAR also offers a 10-week online GHS training course, which is said to be in depth and results in the attendee receiving a GHS competence certificate on successful completion of all the modules.

POST-CONSUMER WASTE SURVEY As the AMA is committed to raising the bar in terms of sustainability, the association is currently undertaking a survey on postconsumer waste in aerosols. The project is led

by Sanesh Allopi of Unilever who says there are three core areas which form part of the

AMA GOLF DAY 2021 The association will host its annual golf day on 15 September at The Country Club, Woodmead, Sandton.

This Rocklands Course was previously ranked 50th in South Africa and is now ranked 35th. Golf Digest describes the course as an “underrated masterpiece in the beautiful surrounds of the club with great views of Johannesburg”.

At this year’s golf day, the AMA will offer a short game mashie game for those who cannot make the full day.

The awards dinner will take place in the evening offering players and industry professionals a great networking opportunity. The AMA is also taking bookings for dinner only.

Team bookings for the golf day are open; 10 teams have already booked their spots. Please send an email to Nick Tselentis (execdir@aerosol. co.za) for booking information. survey. These are design for recycling, the metal market, and the current position on consumer aerosol recycling.

The project is due to end in August after such time Allopi and his survey committee will present back to the AMA on the way forward.

The findings of the survey will be presented in a white paper that will be made publicly available. It will also see the AMA petition government on the challenges associated with aerosol can recycling in order to have more sustainable solutions implemented locally. • AMA – www.aerosol.co.za

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ASSOCIATION NEWS

Eco-focused and consumer relevant soap and solid-format products There is so much more to solid format products such as soap and conditioner bars than meets the eye. This was evident during Coschem’s fourth virtual seminar on soap and solutions which took place on 22 and 23 June. The two day seminar was well supported by delegates who said they thoroughly enjoyed the diverse approaches to soap application and development.

M

arie Azel and Celine Orizet of Solvay, France opened the first session on 22 June focusing on plastic-free beauty products for a happier planet.

The beauty industry continues to advance toward more eco-friendly products with new formats challenging formulators to design innovative solutions with alternatives to traditional choices. Even if the market is still niche, solid format is making a serious comeback and the category is growing fast, especially in the EMEA region, as brands aim to improve on their sustainability efforts and look to reduce plastic packaging and water usage.

Bars, even if they take center stage now, do not necessarily correspond with the format of the future. The solid format of the future will be one that goes beyond performance challenges to meet with maximum acceptance among consumers.

Will Coetsee of Botanica presented an overview on a traditional Marseille soap designed with African botanical oils and extracts.

Botanica Natural Products is a social enterprise that produces plant extracts, African oils and powder ingredients for the cosmetics industry. In addition to its cosmetic ingredients, the company has produced a range of cosmetic products which incorporate its range of active ingredients and oils, including traditional Marseille soap. During the seminar, Coetsee presented the company’s experiences, challenges and learnings in soap making over the past seven years by touching on changing market trends and consumer expectations related to soap production.

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TRENDS DRIVEN BY SUSTAINABILITY Clean and sustainable beauty is here to stay, according to Kim MacCallum of Vantage Specialty Chemicals. This was the central message in MacCallum’s presentation entitled ‘Reducing our Water and Plastic Consumption with Clever Chemistry and Formulations’. She spoke about the demand for products that are safe for the consumer and environment and how to meet this demand using functional

ingredients with reduced irritation and toxicity levels while including important social aspects such as community development and aligning with fair trade.

Worldwide, water is recognised as a valuable resource. Growing consumer insight and the ambitious sustainability goals of multinationals put water-saving measures front and centre

of sustainability matters in the industry.

Additional sustainability goals can be achieved by reducing water usage through reduced energy usage in goods transportation, reducing new plastic production and the use of packaging and lessening the need for biocides in FMCG products.

She also highlighted that 85% of surveyed consumers agreed the waterless concept will become more mainstream in beauty.

This has opened the door to more brands offering powder to foam, waste free, water free, trash free, naked and bar type formulations. This trend has pushed suppliers of ingredients to align at their current materials with changing market demands. As a result, surfactants are now being offered in concentrated powder form along with many new actives that can assist in the design of easy bar and powder creations. The current offerings on the South African market are still a bit pricey – as it is new – but if you have a R80 conditioner bar that has no environmental footprint and can be used 20 times – surely it’s a better choice in the long run?

Following on from MacCallum’s presentation Wayne Nel of Willow Soaps gave a short overview on the history of the soap market, challenges he experiences as a manufacturer and previous trends in soap bars.

René Spada of Evonik provided attendees with a deeper understanding of original soap bars. While mass manufactured soap bars dominate the market, there is still space for small scale manufacturers, as they can target consumers’ concerns and trends much quicker. According to Spada, some of the

ASSOCIATION NEWS

current consumer trends are stress reduction and sleep wellness, which can easily be incorporated into soap bars.

It is important for smaller manufacturers of soap bars to distinguish their product offering from that of mass manufactured offerings by telling a compelling story centred on the raw material and additive selection in their products. Some suggestions were also made on approaches to help reduce a brand’s footprint and through the choices of packaging materials used.

INGREDIENTS, FORMULATIONS AND FINISHED PRODUCTS Dr Florian Genrich of Symrise, Germany welcomed guests to the online platform on 23 June for day two of the seminar. His presentation was entitled ‘Skin Protection in Solid Formats – Multifunctional Cosmetics Concepts from Head to Toe’.

Symrise’s skin protection expertise is built on more than 40 years’ experience with its ingredients designed to target microbiota in a very selective way. Dr Genrich introduced attendees to a next generation ingredient for dandruff control. This 100% green ingredient can be used in a variety of formulations including solid formats to support healthy scalp microbiome. He also looked at both microbiome friendly and malodour control multifunctional ingredients for solid formats, and presented attendees with

multifunctional solutions to achieve hygiene, dandruff control and preservation benefits specifically in bar soap.

"By making small changes to formulations and how we use products, the industry can have a far greater impact on water conservation measures" Yona Boodhram of Croda highlighted a ‘Water Conscious Toolkit and Inspiration for Water Conscious Formulating’.

Water is one of earth’s most precious resources and with climate change, we have seen an exacerbated effect on water scarcity.

The beauty and personal care industry is being challenged to create water conscious options for consumers who are concerned about their environmental impact. Boodhram shared a range of formulations from Croda which focus on the concept of water consciousness, meaning that these formulations do not contain water, however, the product may need water during application. These formulations consist of various formats, ranging from soap bars and sand textures to powders that have

an effervescent aesthetic. The formulations contain market-leading actives and botanical extracts.

By making small changes to formulations and how we use products, the industry can have a far greater impact on water conservation measures. Being a sustainable business sits at the heart of Croda’s purpose and environmental stewardship is one of the core sustainability fundamentals that the company embraces.

Zene Kaye of Chardine Natural Cosmetics shared her personal journey on establishing the brand and business Chardine’s Goats Milk Products with a focus on the concept and origin of soap bars.

Chardine manufactures a 100% natural goats milk soap formulated with five plant oils, free-range goats milk, mineral clays and essential oils. The fragrance free soap is ideal for people and babies with sensitive, dry and itchy skin conditions.

Goats milk contains lactic acid, vitamins, minerals, proteins and amino acids which help to gently exfoliate, moisturise and nourish skin. The pH balance of goats milk is the nearest to human skin which helps to keep skin healthy. Chardine’s handmade soaps are biodegradable, eco-friendly and not tested on animals. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

Some of the presenters and guests who attended Coschem’s fourth virtual seminar on soap and solutions

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Tea

time Take a breather

THE KENDAL GROUP Are you looking for good quality base creams into which you can safely mix your essential oils, tinctures or other additives? If so, contact The Kendal Group for a quote. The Kendal Group manufactures and supplies standard aqueous creams, natural almond oil aqueous creams and hand & body lotions in bulk quantities for onward blending and packing.

Our contact details are: Phone 033-330 5341 E-mail hubers@mweb.co.za or Website www.hubers.co.za

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To advertise in

contact

Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX AECI Specialty Chemicals.................IFC........aeciworld.com

Mibelle Biochemistry .........................45........www.mibellebiochemistry.com

CJP Chemicals ....................................... 41........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Moco Packaging ............................... OBC........www.mocopack.co.za

Clomark...................................................... 9........www.clomark.com

Nautilus Chemicals .............................37........info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

Croda SA..................................................19........www.crodapersonalcare.com

Novopak ..................................................35........www.novopak.co.za

Evonik Africa .........................................46........www.evonik.com/personal-care

Rettenmaier South Africa (JRS)......43........www.jrspersonalcare.de

Fagron South Africa .............................. 7........www.fagron.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals.................29........www.savannah.co.za

IMCD SA ...............................................OFC........www.imcdgroup.com

Symrise SA .............................................23........www.symrise.com

MGSA Projects......................................33........www.mgsaprojects.co.za

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JULY 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028