Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2020

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

Get creative JUNE 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 6

www.pharmacos.co.za

INGREDIENTS

The natural buzz & care solutions for sanitisers

with Ashland’s

innovative palette of tablet coatings

PHARMA FOCUS

Take the pain out of tabletting & encapsulation

ANTI-COUNTERFEITING & SECURITY PACKAGING What’s your brand protection strategy?

Find pharma grade excipients and API solutions faster.

Browse a comprehensive list of excipients and API solutions to ďŹ nd what you need in one convenient interactive platform.

Discover a user-friendly product browsing experience with MyProductWorld.

Find more information about BASF’s newly launched Virtual Pharma Assistants. Your can now register for free on www.info-myphrama.basf.com

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

June 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 6

Pure extracts powered by PhytoClean

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

Symrise honours essential workers with Hero eau de cologne

New BASF concept meets global trend for personalised cosmetics Omya treats dentin hypersensitivity naturally

Afriplex invests in new equipment for cannabis lab

10 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

13 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION P C Review and Symrise unveil a re- energised competition

14 INDUSTRY TALK

COVID-19 fast-tracks online shopping

Beauty industry remains resilient in tough times

16 PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETTING & ENCAPSULATION

Excipient expertise from Ashland

Meet BASF’s virtual pharma assistants

The evolution of tablet coatings

Tablettose withstands the test of time

Romaco Kilian launches the S 710 Prime tablet press

Remote solutions keep MG2 close to customers

18

Meet BASF’s virtual pharma assistants

28

26 INGREDIENTS

Millchem’s natural sanitising and disinfectant solutions

Pure extracts powered by PhytoClean

Tried, tested and cost-effective ‘care’ ingredients

Preservatives from nature’s basket

Sustainable products that provide gentle cleansing

How to combat the effects of increased hand hygiene

Unique formulations inspired by Japanese Zen

New silicone fluid emulsion and gloss agent

Claims, compliance and consumer awareness tips

42 AEROSOLS

Industry steps up to help fight COVID-19

Sasol ramps up chemicals production for sanitisers

44 PACKAGING: ANTI-COUNTERFEITING & SECURITY FEATURES

What’s your brand protection strategy?

Blockchain and the pharma supply chain

34

Effective natural cleansing solutions 46 MALE GROOMING

Dow launches MaizeCare styling polymer

Pro-pigmenting active stops hair-greying process

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS

The latest developments from Coschem

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti & David Kyslinger Sub-editor: Katrien Smit

Leave the guesswork to the experts

I

f you make decisions with little information

a wide range of formulation technologies

about or knowledge of what you’re doing,

to develop products that repair, protect,

you have to take guesses about the things

strengthen and soothe stressed and

you decide. That’s using guesswork. Yet,

overexposed skin. Interesting reads

if you gain factual information, science,

include Millchem’s article on an antiseptic

measurements, or other proven expertise

technology for alcohol-free sanitiser

to help you make decisions, you take the

applications, innovative soap bases and

guesswork out of the process. This is a

natural cleansing products from Stephenson

fundamental theme in the pharma focus, in

to meet the increased demand for hygiene

our June edition.

products, and regulatory advice from CTFA

We’ve featured a series of articles on products, tips and tools applicable

on ingredient claims and concentrations.

I’m also extremely excited to introduce

Contributors: Yashmay Gordhon, Karen Maier, Lonsdale O’Donovan, Agne Roke, Jacques Strydom ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

to all stages of the tabletting and

our re-energised New Product Competition.

encapsulation process, which can help

Working in conjunction with our sponsor

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

bridge the technology and skills gaps

Symrise, P C Review has revamped the

in pharma formulation and processing,

New Product Competition to ensure that

CIRCULATION

particularly evident in emerging markets.

it’s relevant to all players in the South

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

Turn to page 16 to read more about how

African beauty industry. We’ve introduced

PUBLISHING TEAM

Ashland is advancing drug delivery with

new categories – mass/masstige, prestige

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

its sophisticated film coatings; meet BASF’s

and privé label – and we’ve extended the

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

virtual pharma assistants, which have

deadline for entries to 1 June 2021. This is to

Art Director: David Kyslinger

received the necessary regulatory approvals

ensure the lockdown regulations don’t have

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

to be made available to the South African

a negative effect on the ability of brands to

market; learn how to achieve the desired

enter, the high-level judging process and

efficacy of a functional coating; and

the success of the competition. Turn to page

discover why Tablettose remains one of the

13 now to find out more about our new New

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

most popular excipients on the market.

Product Competition.

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

sanitisers have become an integral part

Abby Vorster

MANAGEMENT TEAM

of our lives as we continue to prevent the

abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

Hand washing and the use of hand

spread of COVID-19. With winter arriving fast, we’re also experiencing drier, colder weather, which causes increased dryness of the skin. This, coupled with the effects of augmented hand hygiene, is highly likely to lead to a compromised skin barrier. Our ingredients feature on page 26 explores

@Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

@Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

@pharmacosreview

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

@SApharmacos

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

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Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

Hero cologne honours coronavirus essential workers SYMRISE FINE FRAGRANCE perfumers from around the globe have participated in a project to recognise and thank all the first responders helping to fight COVID-19. Each of the 19 perfumers added one ingredient to the fragrance to create the unisex eau de cologne called ‘Hero’.

Produced using sustainable ingredients, Symrise will donate the Hero cologne to frontline COVID-19 heroes, to contribute to the well-being of those who wear it. Starting in May, Symrise will initially distribute the fragrance in the US, France, China, Singapore, Brazil and Dubai.

Hero eau de cologne was created for both men and women. It interweaves traditional eau de cologne ingredients with contemporary notes like Ambrostar, a Symrise captive, musk and vanilla. The result is an invigorating and supportive fragrance that combines energy and comfort. The top note exudes a composition of mandarin from Madagascar, bergamot with a boost of peppermint and ginger. The heart contains warm notes of ambrette seeds, orris and rose. The base note gives the fragrance fullness and modernity with guaiac wood, sandalwood, vetiver from Madagascar, cypress and renewable vanillin.

“We believe in the power of scent to touch our senses, our soul and the world,” says Ricardo Omori, SVP global fine fragrance. “That’s why we’ve developed a fragrance for all the heroes who, with their tireless and selfless efforts, are helping to fight the coronavirus crisis. Hero is our small token of thanks for the work they do.”

As a fragrance manufacturer with over 200 years of tradition, Symrise knows about the positive influence of scent on a person’s well-being. Especially during challenging times, pleasant fragrances can add a feeling of positive well-being to a tense everyday life. In fact, humans have been using cologne as a fragrance, a mood lifter and a hygiene product for many centuries.

“It has been shown that the addition of fragrance to our daily essentials increases our quality of life,” Omori adds.

“In the current situation, we want to do our part with Hero to lift the mood of our heroes and add positivity to their lives. In doing so, we show our appreciation for the thousands of everyday heroes who are working hard for us with their dedicated efforts.”

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AECI develops COVID-19killing range of cleaners PROPER HYGIENE CONTINUES to be mandatory and more important than ever with South Africa entering level three of the nationwide lockdown. To help businesses and essential services, AECI has developed a bold new range of special purpose cleaners. These products are being manufactured according to the COVID-19-killing guidelines specified by the World Health Organization (WHO), the American Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

Given the urgency in the economy, the capacity for large volumes has been made available as a matter of priority.

The AECI range includes: • liquid hand sanitiser • liquid hand soap • surface disinfectant (for buildings, floors and walls as well as equipment, pathways and roads) • cabin wiping liquid (for buses, cars and taxis) A variety of pack sizes are available such as 25ℓ, 200ℓ and 1 000ℓ. Although bulk orders are preferred, smaller packs can be arranged.

The AECI range is made from the proper grade, purity and type of ingredients such as alcohols and additives that are necessary to ensure the minimum dwelling time to kill COVID-19 and safeguard hands and skin from frequency of use.

Notably, WHO recognises the isopropyl (IPA) blend being used

by AECI to manufacture the liquid hand sanitiser. The EPA says the IPA blend will kill COVID-19 in under 30 seconds when applied correctly. At the same time, the CDC says the blend being used by AECI to manufacture the surface disinfectant will kill COVID-19 in under 60 seconds when applied correctly.

The AECI liquid hand sanitiser is being used by the company’s 5 065 employees in South Africa, in the home and in the workplace, and by a number of leading mining companies. The IPA blend is also

being manufactured by AECI Schirm in Germany for use by the government in that country.

Since the market is flooded with so many hygiene brands claiming to kill COVID-19, AECI is urging people to buy from reputable manufacturers who have a proven track record in the category.

“For example, we’ve been manufacturing and supplying specialty chemicals since 1924 and run an ISO 9000 zone-oneclassified manufacturing facility in Johannesburg,” says Dean Murray, the AECI executive responsible for the company’s chemicals business.

“This means we offer the security of a Department of Trade & Industry permit to operate, a municipal permit to store chemicals and a SARS permit to procure ethanol as well as a fire-safe environment including underground storage tanks. We’re also a level two B-BBEE supplier and have a permit to perform essential services.”

One of the main issues identified

by AECI is the prevalence of liquid hand sanitisers that are being made from either “industrial” grades of ethanol or n-Propanol.

Murray says people should know industrial-grade ethanol contains harmful impurities, while n-Propanol isn’t recognised by the WHO and the additives which are necessary to improve its efficacy in the fight against the COVID-19 pandemic are hazardous to human health.

This reality is being compounded by the fact that many businesses have switched to manufacturing and trading liquid hand sanitisers as a means of remaining viable during this period of uncertainty.

“Their inventiveness is laudable, but the vast majority lack the technical know-how and end up sourcing poor quality ingredients that can cause serious problems,” adds Murray.

“Because of AECI’s industryleading role, we’re able to source supplies, which are increasingly scarce locally and globally, with the help of the Department of Trade & Industry and Sasol, to name a few.”

NEWS

Xylitol presents restorative skin microbiome benefits A RECENTLY PUBLISHED study in the Korean Journal of Microbiology titled ‘Evaluation of xylitol as an agent that controls the growth of skin microbes: Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Cutibacterium acnes’ has shown that DuPont’s Xivia Xylitol has a positive effect on skin microbial growth.

The researchers’ aim was to investigate whether Xivia Xylitol, a naturally occurring, sustainable wood-based sweetener – widely approved for use in food and oral hygiene products – could have a potential role in skin microbial growth. The growth of certain skin bacteria, as pure cultures, was measured in the presence of xylitol. The findings showed that while the growth of pure cultures of pathogenic S. aureus and C. acnes strains linked to skin conditions were inhibited by xylitol, the growth of skin commensal S. epidermidis strain was not affected.

“In Finland we have a long history in the sustainable production of xylitol as well as research into the health benefits of xylitol, and in particular, its caries-preventing activities. We have developed, for instance, the Enteromix colon and oral simulators in our facilities to investigate these phenomena,” says Dr Kirsti Tiihonen, senior research & development manager, DuPont Nutrition & Biosciences. “DuPont’s xylitol manufacturing technology allows the use of a minimum amount of chemicals, water and energy, showing a lower carbon footprint compared to conventional processes.”

Dr Heli Anglenius adds: “Xylitol is utilised due to its hydrating properties within skin care products, and the research is showing interesting abilities for xylitol to protect the skin barrier. The study results demonstrated that xylitol also holds benefits not only to control oral pathogen Streptococcus mutans, but also to control

skin microbes. The results are interesting, as xylitol could benefit in situations where there is a dysbiosis in the skin microbiota and how to balance it.”

The study is a preliminary in vitro study providing important indications for efficacy and additional research is needed to study the effects in a whole microbial community.

“This new data is certainly exciting to help promote the use of our Xivia Xylitol outside of the traditional space of chewing gum and oral care applications,” says Christopher Spontelli, global product line manager, sweeteners, DuPont Nutrition & Biosciences.

You can read more about this research study by clicking on this link: https://bit.ly/3c2qSZ8.

New concept meets global trend for personalised cosmetics MORE AND MORE people consider beauty and care routines key to individualisation and diversity. BASF is meeting the increasing demand for beauty products that reflect the individual needs and nuances of consumers’ everyday world with a winning new concept for personalised cosmetics.

“Individual expression is among the most important megatrends currently shaping the cosmetics industry on a global scale,” says Jason McAlpine, vice president business management personal care solutions Europe.

“That’s a balancing act for cosmetic manufacturers because it means that their products need to be effective for many while responding to the distinct wishes and needs of the individual. With our ingredients and formulation expertise, we are able to help our customers meet this challenge.”

BASF’s new concept is based upon diverse chassis formulations for face and hair care, which, when combined with high-performance boosters, enable consumers to create their own tailormade products in harmony with their personal needs.

Just as no two faces are the same, lifestyles differ, our preferences and needs change, and each of us is subject to different external factors. BASF’s four

chassis formulations for face care target different consumer groups according to age and preferences in texture and naturalness. Each formulation is provided with two recommended boosters, to soothe and rejuvenate the skin, offering urban protection or increasing skin firmness, which can be used to personalise the final application. It is even possible to mix and match chassis formulations and boosters, resulting in countless possibilities for combinations.

For hair care applications, BASF’s new concept comprises two chassis conditioner formulations and four boosters that offer volume, brilliance, anti-pollution and suppleness to the hair – the latter two boosters are formulated according to the COSMOS standard for natural cosmetics. The components should be mixed in the hand and directly applied to the face and hair.

Introducing Puresil from Elkem Silicones cues, optical wrinkle masking, SFP boosting, and many other benefits, for product differentiation.

Among the offerings, Elkem Silicones will feature a silicone elastomer gel in a carrier fluid that is derived from sugar cane. Along with the enhanced performance delivery, this innovative blend offers the option for customers looking to differentiate in environmentally friendly and sustainably sourced ingredients.

Puresil elastomer gels are crosslinked silicone polymer swollen in a variety of carrier fluids. They are clear to translucent gels or pastes depending on the degree of compatibility of the silicone elastomers and carrier fluids. The elastomer blends are of delicate textures, easy to spread under light shear. They render a range of silky, soft, powdery skin feels, a matte finish with a wrinkle-masking effect, and other formulation and efficacy enhancing

benefits. They are intended for applications in skin and sun care as well as colour cosmetics.

The Puresil fluoro silicone range combines the benefits of silicone and fluorine, providing excellent water resistance, a long-lasting effect and moisture retention, making it superb for delivering colour uniformity and vibrancy when used in lipstick and foundation.

Source: Elkem Silicones

PURESIL, CREATED FOLLOWING the acquisition of Basel Chemie, a renowned Korean silicone producer, demonstrates Elkem Silicones’s commitment to strengthening its position as a speciality silicone supplier to the personal care industry.

The newly extended product range includes the Mirasil and Puresil brands. Puresil focuses on innovation and technologies to help customers innovate and differentiate, while Mirasil continues as the foundation of the standard silicones to meet customers’ needs for performance, reliability and efficiency.

In the Puresil range, there are elastomer gels and fluoro-silicone products. The elastomer gel series consists of elastomer gels in multiple carriers of silicones and non-silicones, both volatile and nonvolatile. There are 11 variants with varying crosslinking density, elastomer content, type of carriers such as silicone or organic, both volatile and non-volatile. This series is designed to help deliver the formulation texture, specific sensory

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

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NEWS

Evonik and Beiersdorf engage in CO2-focused R&D A RESEARCH PARTNERSHIP between Beiersdorf and Evonik aims to develop sustainable raw materials for care products, using CO2 as the starting material. Beiersdorf is on the lookout for new sources of raw materials that will also reduce the company’s carbon footprint. One option is artificial photosynthesis technology.

With the aid of electricity from solar energy and bacteria, valuable raw materials are produced with water and CO2, drawing on natural photosynthesis as a model. The joint research project of Evonik and Beiersdorf is being funded by Germany’s federal ministry of education and research (BMBF) to the tune of around €1m.

Dr May Shana’a, corporate senior vice president, research and development, Beiersdorf, says: “The research cooperation fits perfectly with our sustainability agenda,

an ambitious programme that we are implementing systematically and across all functions. We are pursuing a vision of becoming climate positive, and we want to play a part in closing the carbon cycle.”

If Beiersdorf succeeds in using CO2 as a source for the raw materials used in its care products, the company’s carbon footprint will be reduced as well as the land used for renewable resources.

“Together with Evonik, we are determining which raw materials can be produced with the aid of artificial photosynthesis and could potentially be suitable for our care products.

While this has already been observed in the early stages of a number of other industries, this application is in its infancy in the cosmetics industry. We are therefore especially proud to be entering into this research partnership,” Shana’a continues.

Thomas Haas, responsible for artificial photosynthesis at Evonik, adds: “By using carbon dioxide as the starting material for the production of valuable raw materials, we can close the carbon cycle – exactly as demonstrated by nature with photosynthesis.”

Evonik is developing the technology platform needed for artificial photosynthesis together with Siemens in the Rheticus project funded by the BMBF. The company believes the research project launched with Beiersdorf, which is independent of the cooperation with Siemens, is an opportunity for the speciality chemicals producer to expand the future product portfolio for artificial photosynthesis.

Haas comments: “With Beiersdorf, we have a partner joining us in extending the value chain to include sustainable CO2-based products – in the interest of the consumer.”

Artificial photosynthesis uses renewable energy, CO2 and water, and makes a contribution to closing the carbon cycle

Omyadent 200 – OG helps make the surface of the teeth more resistant to painful stimuli caused, for example, by eating ice cream

Natural treatment for dentin hypersensitivity OMYA, AN EXPERT in advanced mineral ingredients, has developed Omyadent 200 – OG, a new grade of particles that are highly efficient for desensitising toothpaste applications.

The co-processed mineral has an outer shell of hydroxyapatite, the main constituent of enamel and dentin, and can therefore interact with the tooth surface to make it more resistant to painful stimuli.

Produced using Omya proprietary technology, in which the mineral is modified so that new surface features develop and particles become porous, Omyadent 200 – OG has been specifically developed to address dentin hypersensitivity (DH). DH discomfort is as a result of exposed tubules within dentin, most commonly due to receding gums or enamel wear. Symptoms are characterised by a reaction to certain triggers, such as hot, cold, sweet or sour foods and beverages. This can induce the movement of fluid within the tubules, aggravating nerves in the pulp and causing short, sharp pain. As a result, those affected start to avoid certain products, which negatively impacts their quality of life.

DH can be treated by blocking dentin tubules, preventing stimuli and dentinal fluid movement. Thanks to its tailored small particles, Omyaden 200 – OG penetrates the tubules and effectively occludes them, while the hydroxyapatite shell makes it resistant to acid attack.

Omyaden 200 – OG is available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, the local agent of Omya.

WHO supports scientifically proven traditional medicine IN THE SEARCH for potential treatments for COVID-19, the World Health Organization (WHO) welcomes global innovations, including repurposing drugs, traditional medicines and developing new therapies.

Africa has a long history of traditional medicine and practitioners that play an important role in providing care to populations, and WHO recognises that traditional, complementary and alternative medicine has many benefits.

Medicinal plants such as Artemisia annua are being considered as possible treatments for COVID-19 and should be tested for efficacy and adverse side effects. Africans deserve to use medicines tested to the same standards as people in the rest of the world.

African governments through their ministers of health adopted a resolution urging member states to produce evidence on the safety, efficacy

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| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

and quality of traditional medicine at the 50th session of the WHO Regional Committee for Africa.

Countries also agreed to undertake relevant research and require national medicines regulatory agencies to approve medicines in line with international standards, which include the product following strict research protocol and undergoing tests and clinical trials. These studies normally involve hundreds of people under the monitoring of the national regulatory authorities and may take quite a few months in an expedited process.

WHO is working with research institutions to select traditional medicine products that can be investigated for clinical efficacy and safety for COVID-19 treatment. In addition, it will continue to support countries as they explore the role of traditional health practitioners in prevention, control and early detection of the virus as well as case referral to health facilities.

As efforts are under way to find treatment for COVID-19, caution must be taken against misinformation, especially on social media, about the effectiveness of certain remedies.

Many plants and substances are being proposed without the minimum requirements and evidence of quality, safety and efficacy. The use of products to treat COVID-19, which have not been robustly investigated, can put people in danger, giving a false sense of security and distracting them from hand washing and physical distancing which are cardinal in COVID-19 prevention, and may also increase self-medication and the risk to patient safety.

WHO welcomes every opportunity to collaborate with countries and researchers to develop new therapies and encourages such collaboration for the development of effective and safe therapies for Africa and the world.

NEWS

Croda’s acts of kindness across the globe STAFF AT CRODA International’s manufacturing sites in various regions worldwide continue to support communities during the COVID-19 pandemic. The company uses smart science to create, make and sell speciality chemicals that improve lives. Its manufacturing sites are tailoring their support to meet needs in their regions through the company’s ‘acts of kindness’ initiative.

The level of creativity shown by the company to get to the heart of what is needed by communities is impressive.

Crodarom, the company’s expert in botanical extracts, has donated a tablet device to a care home to help residents to keep in touch with families via video call, PPE to ambulance drivers and hydroalcoholic solution to fire departments, hospitals, schools and the 23 retirement homes in Lozère, France.

Communities around the company’s manufacturing site in Hull, UK are benefiting from new craft items and dementia activities, which are being used to stimulate residents of a care home who are unable to receive visitors. Plants, seeds and children’s activities have been donated to the children in a women’s refuge and PPE has been sent to nursing homes and hostels. Donations have also been made to a food bank and toiletries and other essentials to a homeless charity in Hull.

In Mevisa, Spain, staff at Croda’s manufacturing site have chosen to work alongside the Red Cross in the region to support older people who are living in isolation, as well as donating PPE to an oncology hospital. Over the next few weeks, they will also be supporting families with food baskets.

Croda Singapore is supporting migrant workers, who are currently in quarantine, with food hampers.

Incotec Holambra in Brazil is providing PPE for medical staff, as well as a heart monitor for an ambulance serving the community in the region.

They have also bought food and household materials for families in the community who have been impacted by COVID-19. Incotec sites at Enkhuizen, in the Netherlands, and Salinas in North America, are supporting foodbanks, which are seeing an increase in those who are needy due to the pandemic.

In addition to its acts of kindness initiatives, Croda has gifted vaccine adjuvants to research institutions that are developing vaccinations for the virus.

It has also gifted excipients to projects working on trial medication for COVID-19 and is providing enough glycerine free of charge to make five million bottles of hand sanitiser.

Afriplex invests in new lab equipment for cannabis research FOLLOWING CURRENT GOOD Manufacturing Practice guidelines, Afriplex is investing in a new multimillionrand laboratory, equipped with sophisticated analytical instrumentation. This will include the installation of a stateof-the-art liquid chromatography system with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). This is an analytical technique that provides a fingerprint chromatographic peak of a sample.

Tandem mass spectrometry removes compound interferences to reduce noise, increasing analytical accuracy.

Depending on the requirements of the analysis, the LCMS/MS system will be coupled to two ionisation methods, namely electrospray ionisation (ESI) and atmospheric pressure chemical ionisation (APCI).

Cannabis possesses a complex molecular profile, with over 80 different cannabinoids and more than 200 terpenes, making LC-ESI-MS/MS particularly valuable for the analysis of cannabinoids. The modification of certain cannabinoids into other forms during sample preparation and/or analysis, will not go unnoticed with the wide resolution of this system.

Coupling the APCI/MS adapter with LC-MS/MS can be used to identify and quantify the terpenes and terpenoids found in cannabis. It can also be used for pesticide analysis, which is necessary on both the plant material and the final product since both the plant actives and impurities are concentrated during the cannabis extraction process. This technique can help verify the quality and safety of samples throughout the cannabis production cycle.

The LC-MS/MS system is also equipped with library packages, which enable compound matching. These can be further expanded as new compounds are identified during research and development work.

“The inclusion of an LC-MS/MS system will allow us to generate world-class results that may enable the identification of unique genetic profiles with substantial commercial potential while also providing valuable insight in the development of active pharmaceutical ingredients and final formulated products,” says Danie Nel, MD of Afriplex. “From a regulatory viewpoint, LC-MS/MS, in combination with the two ionisation methods, provides the most accurate, versatile and rapid mode for molecular analysis, placing Afriplex at the forefront of cannabis testing in South Africa.”

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

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STREET 1 Protect and sanitise hands

1

Sanitise at home or on the go with Capewest waterless sanitisers.

The range is produced using locally sourced ingredients and made in South Africa using 100% sugar cane-derived alcohol.

Effective against germs and bacteria, Capewest sanitiser is veganfriendly and fragrance-free. It’s also infused with a natural blend of botanical antioxidants, including chamomile, green tea, rooibos and aloe vera to restore your skin. A Cape Town Toiletry Company brand, Capewest waterless sanitiser range is ideal for hands, body and surfaces for personal and professional use.

3

2 Luxurious body care from Africa

Treat yourself to an at-home spa treatment with the beautifully crafted Gold Coast Charcoal body care range. With stunning fragrances and silky textures, these products will leave you feeling refreshed and pampered. The Gold Coast Charcoal range is formulated with charcoal, a sedimentary rock with a long history of traditional use by the people of the African gold coast. It acts as a veritable magnet for impurities, bacteria, sebum and oil, offering a purifying effect.

3 Organic tea tree oil sanitiser

Treemendus, South Africa’s first range of certified organic tea tree body care products, has just launched a 100% natural tea tree hand sanitiser. Its combination of 2% organic tea tree oil and 70% alcohol is formulated to effectively help reduce exposure to potential disease-causing bacteria. It’s designed for use when soap and water are not readily available to clean hands. While the alcohol evaporates quickly, the tea tree oil remains on the skin longer, potentially providing additional protection through its antimicrobial efficacy.

4

4 New biosimilar launches in SA

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| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

Amgen recently launched a medicine used to treat autoimmune diseases both in adults and children. Amgevita is a biosimilar medicine, containing the active substance adalimumab. This means that Amgevita is similar to the biological medicine authorised in South Africa. Amgevita is also the first adalimumab biosimilar to receive approval from the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority, reflecting Amgen’s commitment to developing high-quality biosimilars.

5 Multifunctional beauty elixir

Skin Creamery’s wildflower water-cream is a lightweight emulsion that will leave skin feeling soothed and refreshed. This multipurpose beauty elixir deeply hydrates skin, while botanical extracts work to smooth and refine the skin’s surface, creating a primed finish with a youthful glow. Key ingredients in the water-cream include acmella flower, which has been used in traditional medicine for centuries, and aloe leaf, which is widely used for its soothing and hydrating properties. This product is suitable for all skin types and ideal for mature, tired and environmentally stressed skin.

5

2020

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

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RE V IE W

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11

INDUSTRY TALK

COVID-19 fast-tracks online shopping in South Africa

With the current lockdown and previous ban of non-essential products and services, consumers have switched to digital shopping alternatives with 37% of South Africans saying they are shopping more online. This is according to a recent Nielsen syndicated study on the impact of COVID-19 on consumer behaviour in South Africa.

N

ielsen South Africa retailer lead,

capacity to match increasing online

Gareth Paterson, comments:

shopper traffic and maintain their ability to

Permanent uplift in online shopping

“Amidst the strange new world

fulfil the demand.

Paterson says what this rapid evolution in

of COVID-19, online shopping

It’s important to note, similar challenges

e-commerce clarifies is that technology

has been a lifeline for many South African

have been faced around the world.

adoption in the current situation is paving

consumers who have desperately sought

Global retailers that have managed to

the way for the sustained development of

out safe and secure shopping alternatives

scale up their supply and delivery logistics

online shopping, in terms of infrastructure

during lockdown living. As a result,

have seen exponential growth in online

and consumer acceptance.

available online shopping platforms,

sales. For example, Spain and Australia,

especially for groceries, medicines and

where penetration of online shopping

uplift in online shopping numbers – albeit

other necessary items, have seen a surge in

for grocery goods had previously been

off a small base in South Africa – even after

usage as consumers prefer not to venture

lower, have shown sizeable increases

the pandemic has ended, since many

into stores. They’ve increasingly opted for

in online retail sales. This is a clear sign

behaviours adopted during the COVID-19

these reduced touchpoint alternatives.”

that shopping online is starting to yield

period are likely to translate into more

benefits for consumers.

permanent long-term habits.”

This development points to an interesting

Accelerated innovation

will need to quickly address the main

shift in shopping behaviour. Where

Another outcome of the coronavirus

barriers or hesitations that non-users had

previously fashion, travel and entertainment

pandemic is the emergence of local

expressed in the past, be it freshness

categories were frontrunners for consumers

innovations to fill the gaps in the market.

guarantees or free delivery. It will be critical

to enter the e-commerce sphere. Grocery

For example, click-and-collect services

for retailers to make the migration from

categories, particularly packaged and

have emerged where the consumer

offline to online as seamless as possible.

fresh goods, were slower to gain traction

places an order and has it delivered to the

This can be done by communicating

yet the lockdown has accelerated

car while waiting in a designated parking

potential stock outages, advising of

adoption of online shopping for some of

bay at the retailer’s premises. This not

delayed delivery timelines and providing

these categories.

only ensures increased health and safety

additional online navigation tools and

measures but also speedier fulfilment of

support to first-time users. These advances

online orders.

will be key to retaining online shoppers

New affinity for online shopping

South Africa’s online grocery shopping penetration and usage has also been quite niche. Of the 58% of South Africans with

online retailers have also quickly

internet access, only 1% to 2% had regularly

shifted their existing product offering

purchased food and groceries online,

to supply essential goods, such as one

which only 8% to 10% have purchased

large e-commerce gifting platform that

in the past year. However, one-third of

diversified to delivering fresh produce and

consumers expressed a willingness to

Uber Eats drivers who are maintaining an

shop online. This coupled with the current

income through the delivery of groceries

lockdown scenario means there is likely

for retailers.

to be prolonged behavioural changes in in-store and online shopping, with services like click and collect, automated online subscriptions and personal shopping having the potential for growth.

Meeting demand Unfortunately, this rapid rise in the popularity of shopping online has also resulted in constraints. For example, consumers are experiencing extended delivery timelines for online orders, as retailers have had to boost e-commerce

12

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

“We can therefore expect a permanent

However, he cautions: “Retailers

once stores reopen their doors.” • REFERENCES • Nielse’s Connected Commerce, Shopper Trends and COVID-19 syndicated surveys.

Technology adoption in the current situation is paving the way for the sustained development of online shopping

r o P d u ct w e N Competition

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry.

The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa.

• Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021.

All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021.

For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.

INDUSTRY TALK

Beauty industry remains resilient in tough times Consumer behaviour around beauty is changing as a result of the global COVID-19 pandemic.

P C Review looks at how a variety of beauty brands have adapted to the changes brought about by the coronavirus and their increased use of web-based solutions to reach consumers.

consumers alike during the pandemic.

Using its effective skin care products,

L

the virtual consultations aim to ike many aspects of life

soon as it received its CIPC certificate,

target and repair skin concerns in a

under lockdown, COVID-19

the company could sell products

personalised way. In addition, it has

is accelerating significant

throughout lockdown.

launched a professional treatment

trends in the beauty industry.

Both Optiphi and Placecol products

kit, which empowers the consumer

Online tutorials, self-care and natural

are manufactured locally and have

to have a professional facial at home.

makeup are poised to become

not experienced any supply chain

This kit is available subsequent

even more important elements of

challenges since the start of nationwide

to a virtual consultation with a

consumers’ relationship with beauty

lockdown. Placecol has been able to

skin therapist.

and skin care products.

keep its stock levels up and continues

Many traditional beauty retail outlets have been

Stephnie-Anne Dickinson of Optiphi

to meet its customers’ needs.

Skin Rejuvenation Technologies

It’s amazing to see how brands have turned to webbased technologies to add value during COVID-19

forced to sell their

owns and produces Optiphi products

products online while

and could easily adjust its production

spas and salons

line to manufacture hygiene essentials

remain closed. As a

like 70% alcohol hand sanitisers,

result, professional

surface disinfectants and facial or

skin care brand

body cleansers. As the lockdown

Optiphi quickly

evolved and toiletries became

launched an online

included in the essential products list,

store at optiphi.com

Optiphi was able to make the most

an appointment with the Optiphi

and has remained

of its product offering available on its

salon or therapist is still booked and

committed to

online store and the online stores of

a qualified Optiphi therapist virtually

supporting its

its stockists.

assists the consumer, taking them

stockists during this

“The uniqueness about this is that

through the at-home professional treatment procedure,” explains

customer who purchases retail

Using the internet to add value

products via the online store enters

Aside from the uptick in e-commerce,

training at Optiphi.

the name of their regular salon so the

it’s amazing to see how brands have

salon or stockist receives portion of

turned to web-based technologies to

skin consultations for its exclusive skin

the proceeds.

add value during COVID-19.

care brand, Skinderm. By doing this,

time by ensuring each

Placecol, a retail and professional

Optiphi launched virtual

Stephnie-Anne Dickinson, head of Perfect10 has also launched online

Mirande Rossouw of Perfect10 says the

skin care, wellness and salon brand,

consultations in an effort to support

salons have an opportunity to retain

had an existing online shop, so as

its clients (spa and salons) and

customers while ensuring they are

14

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

INDUSTRY TALK keeping up with their prescribed skin

pushing people into

of level two of the

care routine.

our salons. Instead

nationwide lockdown,

we have changed

making the beautiful

Tzvia Hermann, founder and director of the Laser Beautique, Beautique

our messaging

brands and Beautique academy,

to encourage

comments: “We have focused on

consumers to buy

online sales and free online skin and

from our website as

Hoedspruit region by

hair consultations. All our products

well as sending them

Silvia and her son,

are now available to buy online. We

helpful tips on how

Collins, available for

have our amazing BeauRejuve home

to continue their

device and we’ve launched DIY

beauty regimes

treatment kits. We can only trade in

at home.”

and practical masks produced in the

Tzvia Her ma nn of the Las er Bea utiq ue

purchase via the Optiphi online store.

All the proceeds from

level one, so we have had to become

the sale of Joen Masks are returned to

creative. Our business will not survive if

Making a vital impact

we don’t become creative and launch

It’s clear, these and other savvy

the Hoedspruit region and a portion of

new revenue streams. We have even

beauty brands are adjusting how

the proceeds is shared amongst four

launched a few new PPE products.”

they do business and their content

local charities which Joen supports.

to maintain a vital connection with

Dickinson says they are very positive

Innovating with crosschannel marketing

their customers while hoping to reach new consumers.

Previously to COVID-19 a lot of beauty

Matt O’Grady, global commercial president at Nielsen Media also

brands never really made it a

suggests ‘showing that your

priority to go fully digital, as traditional brick and mortar sales tended to bring in more revenue. Yet cross-channel marketing has become more important than ever, particularly for professional brands sold in spas and salons, which

DID YOU KNOW?

that Optiphi will flourish even through these difficult times.

“At Optiphi, we are very passionate about our products, philosophy

brand is making an impact

and honesty about our results and

in the community or

product benefits. Once you choose

demonstrating new

According to the Kantar SA, ways to use your COVID-19 barometer study, the products could global pandemic is having a radical increase your impact on how South Africans shop.

A total of 22% of South Africans said customer adoption they are using online shopping in the long term’. more frequently. For under 35s, Optiphi joined 42% say they are shopping less at physical outlets in favour hands with Joen of e-commerce. Source: Masks at the start Bizcommunity.

Optiphi as your skin care brand of choice, there is no turning back.

We are continuously re-visiting innovative product development and technological advancements to reach our consumers, as well as support our stockists through these uncertain times,” she concludes. •

remain closed due to lockdown regulations.

Tayla Wrede, Placecol brand manager, says the brand has always engaged with its customers on digital platforms.

“However, we have increased this by doing live videos on Facebook and Instagram as well as live Q&As where we can engage our customers on a more personal level and truly help them. Our messaging has changed to truly touch the hearts of our customers during this time and to spread positivity.”

Prior to COVID-19, Placecol’s advertising campaigns were carried out both above and below the line. “Our above the line marketing mainly takes place in malls and in our salons. But as salons are closed and people aren’t frequenting malls, we have had to increase below the line activities,” she explains. “Our messaging on digital platforms has had to be adjusted, as we are used to

Virtual consultations aim to target and repair skin concerns in a personalised way P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

15

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

Film coatings

– an expression of quality, functionality and brand recognition New product development is the lifeblood of pharmaceutical companies.

As APIs become more complex, they can present increasing challenges and make pharmaceutical formulation and process development more source-dependent and time-consuming. Ashland offers excipient expertise to overcome these challenges.

R

epresented locally by IMCD

products include Benecel HPMC, Klucel

South Africa, Ashland advances

HPC, Viatel bioresorbable polymers,

drug delivery with sophisticated

Plasdone povidone and copovidone

science-based solutions. The

and Polyplasdone crospovidone. These

company has six technical centres

products help formulators increase

positioned around the globe which are

the solubility of poorly soluble active

equipped with the latest equipment and

pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs).

employ research scientists and formulators

They control drug release of modified-

with the experience and technical

release products, reduce tablet size while

capabilities to bring a product from

maintaining API load and tablet integrity,

concept to commercialisation.

reduce the disintegration time of tablets

Ashland’s global headquarters are based in Wilmington, Delaware, in the US,

Ashland’s film coatings deliver the following benefits: • improved adhesion • enhanced flexibility • moisture barrier • odour and taste masking • minimised coating time • addressing visual defects • controlled/delayed release.

and enhance processability.

Based on a broad portfolio of

eliminating loss from failed batches and cutting inventory overhead costs.

and are deemed a centre of excellence

functional excipients and the depth

for pharmaceutical R&D. At this facility,

and breadth of its technical expertise,

the company develops advanced

Ashland has positioned itself as a leader

can significantly increase the throughput

excipients needed to make today’s

in drug delivery and formulation and

during continuous coating. These new

complex drug formulations.

development science.

film-coating systems are also beneficial for

Aquarius Genesis film-coating systems

traditional batch coating, providing shorter

Ashland offers a variety of products

One key area of the Ashland portfolio is

to solve any solid-dosage formulation

its line of film-coating technologies. While

challenge, from formulated functional

new and innovative raw materials typically

coating systems to products that assist

face an onerous pathway to regulatory

line or expansion of an existing one is

with controlled release, solubilisation,

acceptance, essentially limiting coating

being considered, the use of Aquarius

disintegration and tablet binding.

formulations to materials already in

Genesis film-coating systems can

It also has one of the broadest

common usage, the Ashland film-coatings

substantially reduce the need for

portfolios of functional excipients in the

portfolio continues to evolve to meet the

capital investment.

pharmaceutical arena.

needs of the industry.

Functional excipients

Aquarius Genesis

The Aquarius Control product family

As the industry continues to expand,

Ashland has a new, high-solids film-

consists of three types of coatings.

novel solutions are becoming more and

coating system for immediate-release

Aquarius Control ENA film-coating systems

more important to provide products that

applications. Aquarius Genesis film-

are delayed-release (enteric) coatings

are patient-centric. Companies that

coating systems are designed for

designed to protect APIs that degrade in

offer the technology and expertise to

application at up to 35% solids and

gastric fluid, or to prevent the release of

develop these solutions will see demand

produce films with outstanding strength,

APIs that may irritate the gastric mucosa.

expanding for their products and services

adhesion and smoothness.

The release profiles of tablets enteric

application times and higher throughput.

When the purchase of a new coating

Aquarius Control

– Ashland has positioned itself to be one

The pharmaceutical industry is moving

coated with Aquarius Control ENA film-

from traditional batch manufacturing

coating systems are remarkably stable

It offers excipients for oral solid, oral

to continuous manufacturing, which

over periods of up to 12 months, even

liquid and parenteral dosage forms. Key

can save money by reducing waste,

under accelerated stability testing.

of these companies.

16

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

Aquarius Control SRX film-coating systems are sustained-release coatings for APIs that

These film coatings are

By reducing the coating time using high-solids formulations, productivity is increased and overall manufacturing costs are reduced

applicable to both

are most effective when released over time.

pharmaceutical and nutraceutical solid-

(typically up to 20% w/w solids for

They are solvent-dispersible, ethyl cellulose

dosage forms. Ashland formulators have

pigmented coatings and, in certain cases,

coatings for multiparticulates, potentially

access to an unrivalled range of cellulosic

up to 25%) with viscosities in the range of

modified with hydroxypropyl cellulose as

and other polymeric excipients, enabling

100cP to 300cP.

a pore former. These film-coating systems

these film-coating systems to be tailored to

are available in several different porosities

meet exacting requirements.

that can be matched to drug solubility

High-solids loadings are desirable in

Aquarius Prime Applied to immediate-release dosage

and/or desired release profile. They have

order to maximise the efficiency of the

forms, Aquarius Prime film-coating systems

predictable and controllable release

coating application process. By reducing

disperse easily in water. Film coatings

retardation, do not require a coalescence

the coating time using high-solids

for immediate-release tablet-coating

step and have stable dissolution profiles

formulations, productivity is increased and

applications typically comprise a polymer,

over a wide pH range.

overall manufacturing costs are reduced.

plasticiser and optional pigment/opacifier.

Aquarius Control film-coating systems

Aquarius Preferred film-coating systems

Aquarius Prime film-coating systems

are durable, coherent coatings in

are state-of-the-art immediate-release

are available in clear and white

which film-formation occurs via solvent

coatings, which have been scientifically

formulations off the shelf. They can be

evaporation – not latex coalescence – and

formulated with careful polymer selection.

matched to customers’ existing HPMC

film robustness is related to the use of a

High-solids cellulosic or high-solids PVP/

film-coating systems and are useful in

high-molecular weight polymer.

VA formulations improve film adhesion

many applications where special coating

to all substrates, especially those that

functionality is not a major requirement.

this range is an aqueous dispersion of ethyl

offer challenges in aqueous film coating.

Ashland takes great care in formulating all

cellulose polymer for achieving controlled

When compared to competitive offerings,

film coatings in its portfolio. The selection

release, taste masking and moisture

Aquarius film-coating systems have

of ingredients and ingredient levels for a

protection by forming a water-insoluble

proven to offer smoother, more consistent

formulation is a critical factor in obtaining

film. This Aquarius Control coating system

coverage even at the highest solids levels.

the target appearance and performance

The ECD film-coating system variant in

supports a solvent- and ammonia-

Clear advantages in film-coating

on the tablet core and in minimising

free coating process while reducing

process productivity are seen with high-

processing problems. Optimising a film-

environmental impact and improving

solids suspensions. These formulations

coating formulation requires balancing

product safety by eliminating the use of

allow the solids content of the coating

critical properties, such as film strength,

hazardous solvents.

system to be increased significantly

film adhesion, film flexibility and opacity. •

Aquarius Preferred Aquarius Preferred film-coating systems are immediately and easily dispersed in water.

Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/worldwide/south-africa

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

17

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

Meet BASF’s virtual pharma assistants Leveraging the concept of virtual assistance, the expertise of BASF’s pharma solutions business unit is now available via three unique web-based tools. P&C Review spoke to Sithembiso Dlalisa, BASF’s pharma solutions sales account manager, to find out more about how these tools can help pharmaceutical manufacturers. By Abby Vorster

B

ASF’s new web-based solutions are called ZoomLabTM, RegXcellenceTM and MyProductWorld. These three

virtual tools support all stages of the drug development process and bridge the technology and skills gaps in formulation and processing in emerging markets.

BASF’s expertise is available online 24/7 … adding value whenever and wherever our customers need it

Dlalisa explains: “Through BASF’s knowledge-sharing culture, we are

and download documents. You can

encouraged to share our expertise

also request samples; download

with customers by hosting workshops

technical documents, brochures and posters; and connect seamlessly to

and collaborating on projects. With the COVID-19 pandemic placing restrictions on how we interact with our customers,

Sithembiso Dlalisa

RegXcellence documents.

The product overview gives access to

the need for knowledge-sharing via

RegXcellence

benefits, product details and available

web-based platforms is stronger than

One of the most critical points in pharma

documents at a glance, and you can

ever. With the virtual pharma assistants,

manufacturing is documentation for

select products, number of batches and

BASF’s expertise is now fully accessible

regulatory compliance. RegXcellence is

view the user’s request history. Customer-

and available online 24/7, allowing us

a virtual quality and regulatory assistant,

centric contextual feedback is also

to continue to add value whenever and

which helps customers meet their

provided via MyProductWorld.

wherever our customers need it.”

compliance needs.

ZoomLab

customisation of regulatory documents to fit

Taking the guesswork out of pharma

ZoomLab is a virtual formulation assistant for

country-specific compliance needs, such as

manufacturing, BASF’s virtual pharma

pharma manufacturers.

those of the South African Health Products

assistants are available for use by

Regulatory Authority. The user can source

manufacturers, universities, laboratories,

starting formulations and eliminate pre-

documents such as drug master files, a letter

etc. Yet, due to regulations around the

formulation trial and error,” Dlalisa says. “A

of access, or certificate of suitability using the

protection of information, users must first

key aspect of this particular tool is that API

RegXcellence tool,” comments Dlalisa.

register online and be approved in order to

“This virtual assistant allows for the

“With this tool you can instantly predict

confidentiality is maintained throughout.

Widely used and appreciated

use the web-based platforms.

All that is needed to source an optimised

MyProductWorld

formulation are the properties of the

The third offering from BASF’s virtual pharma

are highly appreciated and have

API, a target profile of the final drug and

assistants is MyProductWorld. This interactive

become widely used since their launch

ingredient preferences.”

and easy-to-use platform helps the user

in November 2019 at CPhi Worldwide in

find a suitable product solution for their

Frankfurt. The online tools are new to the

formulation wizard coupled with the provision

formulation challenges. You can also access

South African pharma industry, as they

processing instructions and compendia,

comprehensive information about all of

were pending the necessary approvals

which allows the user to browse API, excipient

BASF’s products.

from local authorities. We anticipate they

The functionality of ZoomLab includes a

and generic drug databases. There are also

“Using a stepwise approach,

“Globally the virtual pharma assistants

will fit in well with local market needs,

checks in place which help the user verify the

MyProductWorld allows the user to source the

gaining the same, if not more, of a positive

processability of APIs and powder blends.

exact raw material or ingredient for a particular

response from South African pharma

finished product, be it a softgel, or instant and

manufacturers,” Dlalisa concludes. •

Additional features such as BCS classes, coatings, manufacturing processes and dosage forms are in the pipeline and will be added to ZoomLab later this year.

18

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

modified release, for example,” he explains.

The functionalities of this virtual pharma assistant allow the user to save favourites

Visit www.info-mypharma.basf.com and sign up to access all three virtual pharma assistants.

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2 fax: +27 11 614 4615 email: admin@hersol.co.za web: www.hersol.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is ready to supply its customers with all their needs during a pandemic:

We are making Puresse hand sanitizer

And still manufacturing all the established vitamins and supplements.

Immune boosters

We worked through the lockdown to ensure everyone has the essential supplies required to stay safe and healthy.

We remain committed to delivering quality products and service during these tough times and always.

Puresse

Waterless Sanitiser PURE as water, CLEAN as soap International Standard Scientific Formula Researched | Tested | Approved

Kills All Germs

Eco Friendly

• • • • •

Non Toxic

As gentle as water on your skin Leaves no residue Quick drying and Fast acting Safe for use for all ages Mild enough for continuous use

Available online at www.rejuvenesse.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

The evolution of

tablet coatings Applied to various oral dosage forms such as particles, powders, granules, crystals, pellets and tablets, coatings have advanced from an art of earlier years to technologically advanced and controlled processes centred around compliance and good manufacturing practices.

By Lonsdale O’Donovan of Quantum Colours

T

raditionally, tablets were sugar-

Selecting the right coating

to be exposed to the acidic medium

coated. Yet sugar coating is a long

Depending on its required functionality

of the stomach in order to activate the

and tedious process of building layer

– be it moisture, taste barrier, controlled/

minerals to become more bio-available.

upon layer, followed by polishing, with

sustained release or enteric – a film coating

The incorrect selection of an enteric

some variable results in certain cases. The

is generally based on a powder blend of

coating can account for an 80% loss in

advantage of this process is the fact that

different low viscosity, film-forming polymers

availability of calcium and magnesium

the equipment is simple and inexpensive

(PVA) or cellulose (HPMC), plasticisers,

and should not be the first choice.

and yields an attractive appearance.

pigments, fillers and flow agents etc. This powder base is then mixed with R/O water

Polymer-based coatings

coating became the preferred way of

or a solvent base, depending on the

Film coatings based on high molecular

coating tablets. This involved solvents

physical properties of the tablet.

weight polymers are safe to use as these

Subsequent to sugar coating, film

(alcohol or methylene chloride) used with

It is critical that the correct type of

solids. The process was easy but posed a

coating is selected. Solvents are used

flammable hazard and the equipment had

when rapid drying is required, especially

to be flame-proof. Finished tablets also had

when hygroscopic material is used

an undesirable solvent or chemical-like

in the tablet core like some calcium/

smell. In most instances the solvent process

magnesium (Ca/Mg) preparations.

was replaced with the aqueous-based film

For a Ca/Mg preparation that absorbs

coatings, which are more challenging to

moisture from the atmosphere, one

use as the coating has to be applied to the

should not select an enteric coating

tablets without wetting, which could affect

as this will compromise the absorptivity

the integrity of the tablets.

as the calcium and magnesium needs

cannot be absorbed into tissue. They

8

REASONS WHY TABLETS SHOULD BE COATED:

1. A tablet coating gives brand recognition to a tablet by adding colour.

2. A coating can mask an unpleasant taste or smell, such as a B-complex tablet, which can be masked with a flavoured coating.

3. A coating acts as a moisture barrier, protecting active ingredients against oxidisation.

4. Coatings protect the core against light.

5. They can be used to separate incompatible material.

6. A coating is used to hide discolouration of the core over time.

7. By using polymers that are pH specific, a coating can modify drug release.

8. Coating aids structural strength to the core and can increase the hardness of the core by about 60N.

20

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

DID YOU KNOW?

have no physical action at the

As of 2018, the pharmaceutical coatings segment dominated the tablet coatings market with a market share of 70%. The global market for tablet coatings is expected to reach $830m by 2022, increasing at a constant CAGR of 5% to 6%. Pharmerging nations are anticipated to lead the demand for tablet coatings at a CAGR of 8% to 9% until 2022.

recommended dosage and are non-toxic.

Polymer-based coatings

obtain the desired result of an aesthetically pleasing tablet to the functionality of the actual coating.

Some critical parameters begin with

yield a smooth, glossy finish

the integrity of the raw materials used to

on tablets which is easy to

manufacture the cores through to the

swallow and compatible

manufacturing process of the tablets

with most active ingredients.

Enteric coatings can be based on

methacrylic acid copolymers type A,

and on to the processing and coating of the tablets.

Remember, it’s critical to obtain the

B and C, which are pH specific. The delivery

recommended weight gain on the cores

systems can be specific to the jejunum

to achieve the desired efficacy of the

(pH 6.0), colon (pH7.0) and duodenum

functional coating. To identify and resolve

(pH5.5). Enteric preparations can be used

defects associated with the coating

for targeted-specific drug delivery, or to

process, readers are invited to request

protect the active ingredients in the tablet

a complimentary troubleshooting guide

against the acid medium of the stomach.

poster from Quantum Colours, by sending

HPMC-based coatings yield a matte

an email to sales2@quantumcolours.com.

finish and are not as smooth as polymer-

This detailed poster covers issues such

based coatings, though HPMC-based

as orange peel, film peeling, picking,

coatings give good moisture protection.

twinning, film cracking, logo erosion, film chipping, colour variation, logo bridging

The coating process

and logo infilling. •

Because the coating process has many variables, everything needs to be controlled and correctly done in order to

Quantum Colours – www.quantumcolours.com

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

21

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

Tablettose withstands the test of time It may seem unclear why an excipient that was invented in the 1970s is still one of Meggle’s best-selling lactose grades for direct compression. While some may perceive it as outdated, Tablettose – available locally from Amchem – is yet to be replaced by more sophisticated options like spraydried or co-processed lactose.

S

ome might argue Tablettose’s

excipient on hand, with crystal clear

FRC and the monograph

unwavering popularity is partly due

regulatory status and which is accepted

When Tablettose was invented,

to the pharma industry’s hesitation

by authorities.

pharmacopeial standards were already

to introduce new materials, which is true

Although Meggle uses a fair amount of

in place. In fact, lactose monohydrate’s

to some extent. However, Meggle’s experts

water for the agglomeration of lactose,

monograph has not changed drastically

maintain that a robust agglomeration

the final product provides a remarkably

over decades. Yet, functional related

technique translates into a robust

low amount of potentially active surface

characteristics (FRC) have found their

excipient, which is essential in robust

water (< 0.5 %), clearly allowing for the use

way into the monograph. Although not

drug manufacturing. When it introduced

of Tablettose in formulations that contain

compulsory by definition, regulatory bodies

a special agglomeration technique to

moisture-sensitive active pharmaceutical

have been demanding more frequently to

produce its Tablettose family, Meggle had

ingredients (APIs). As lactose monohydrate

see examples of if and how FRC affects the

great success.

is not hygroscopic by any means, stability

drug manufacturing process.

Tablettose is produced using a continuous process – a concept that is

issues due to water uptake should not be of any concern.

still not fully embraced by the pharma

Customers who opt for Tablettose expect good functionality from an agglomerated lactose. And when it

industry, although it’s very well accepted

Agglomerated lactose family

and understood by the food industry.

The Tablettose family consists of three

extra mile. This parameter is specified on

Meggle’s deeply rooted expertise in food

members, each with its distinct advantages.

the certificate of analysis.

production and willingness to conquer

Tablettose 80 covers the broadest range

the pharmaceutical industry helped a

of drug formulations and is considered

will probably become the new norm.

lot to apply the concept of continuous

Meggle’s workhorse and first choice when it

Closely linked to FRC is quality by

manufacturing to the production of

comes to cost-effective and reliable direct

design (QbD). For Tablettose users,

pharmaceutical-grade excipients.

compression. Derived from Tablettose 80,

Meggle provides a QbD data library,

Through continuous manufacturing,

manufacturers can choose Tablettose 70 if

which enables customers to assess the

not only can Meggle take advantage of

faced with serious flowability issues caused

variability of the lactose prior to building

reduced production costs, allowing for

by a too fine API (fines) or other formulation

the design space and developing a

very competitive pricing, but consistent

ingredients, which impair sufficient powder

sound control strategy. QbD samples

product quality and performance can also

flow into the die of the tablet press. Fines

are available on request, making it even

be achieved.

in particular can create issues throughout

easier to generate solid data for robust

the entire compaction process. Therefore,

drug formulation development.

comes to flowability, Meggle has gone the

FRC as part of a product’s specification

Compliant and highly functional

the minimised content of the particles of

The beauty of agglomerated lactose is

Tablettose 70s, which are smaller than

expanded over the years, specific needs

two-fold – it has excellent flowability and

63µm (NMT 6% < 63µm), guarantees

are addressed while the latest regulatory

compactability and its regulatory status

reliable tabletting results. It cannot be

requirements are met. Meggle is confident

is ‘safe’. Tablettose complies with virtually

overstated that a low fines content allows

that Tablettose is going to stay prominent

all compendial requirements worldwide

for higher throughput as dust is virtually

in the industry for much longer – possibly

which are set for lactose monohydrate.

not present, which minimises the need for

another 50 years. •

This means that whenever lactose

frequent cleaning.

monohydrate is considered as part of a

On the other hand, Tablettose 100 is an

pharmaceutical drug formulation, the

ideal choice if drug load increases and a

drug developer has a highly functional

high excipient compactability is required.

22

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

As the functionality of Tablettose has

Amchem – www.amchem.co.za Meggle – www.meggle-pharma.com

Tablettose®.

Fast, simple, cost-effective.

From Meggle.

The world of lactose.

The world of lactose.

The world of lactose.

Global, Global, individual, individual, expert. expert. Global, individual, expe From From Megg From Meggle.

Meggle.

GMP/GDP certified

pioneers in the development of – Innovative product range direct tableting, MEGGLE has more – Leading quality systems of experience and offers a broad- – Fully implemented GMP/GDP system GMP/GDP certified certified tailed portfolio of lactose products – GMP/GDP Global partner network GMP/GDP ce GMP/GDP certified ation worldwide. The The benefits Customers in more than 100 countries benchmark in direct tableting – of large tablet – Excellent flowability one of the pioneers in the development of – Innovative product range quantities ofofall kinds: Tablettose ,one the of all-around – Extremely high processing speed Asproduct the pioneers in the development of one of the pioneers infor the development – Innovative product range range mselves.

And MEGGLE: cipients for direct tableting, MEGGLE has more –– Innovative Leading quality systems solution for any individual needs.

The benefits – Low compression force excipients for direct tableting, MEGGLE has–more – Leading quality systems cipients for direct tableting,and MEGGLE more –– Leading quality systems Lactose from MEGGLE an 50 years of experience offers has a broadFully implemented GMP/GDP system speak fora themselves.

And for Tablettose : of experience –system Very easy, simplified production than 50 years and offers a broadan 50 years of experience and offers broad– Fully implemented GMP/G – Fully implemented GMP/GDP sed and detailed portfolio of lactose products – Global partner network the experts in excipients.

– High time and cost savings based and detailed sed detailed worldwide. portfolio of The lactose products – Global partner network –– Global partner network anyand application benefits Customers in more than 100 portfolio countriesof lactose products ®

®

anyfor application worldwide.

The benefits eak themselves.

And for MEGGLE: eak for themselves. And for MEGGLE:

AD OFFICE GERMANY: AD OFFICE GERMANY: w.meggle-pharma.com w.meggle-pharma.com vice.pharma@meggle.de vice.pharma@meggle.de ne +49 8071 73 476 ne +49 8071 73 476

RMANY: ma.com meggle.de 73 476

– Wide variety of applications – Customers in more than 1 forinany application The benefits – Customers more than 100worldwide. countries Lactose from MEGGLE – speak for themselves. And for MEGGLE: Tablettose® from MEGGLE: Lactose from MEGGLE – Lactose frominMEGGLE – the experts excipients.

The solution for any needs. the experts in excipients. the experts in excipients.

HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: AMCHEM PTY. LTD. www.meggle-pharma.com AMCHEMSouth PTY. LTD. Pretoria, Africa service.pharma@meggle.de Pretoria, South Africa www.amchem.co.za Phone +49 8071 73 476 www.amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082 Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082

AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa www.amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za

AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: www.amchem.co.za www.meggle-pharma.com mark@amchem.co.za service.pharma@meggle.de Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082 Phone +49 8071 73 476

AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa www.amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

Powerful economical tablet press for high-volume batches Romaco Kilian’s new S 710 Prime double-sided rotary press complements its portfolio of high-productivity tablet presses for both mono-layer and bi-layer mode. This high-performance, double-sided rotary press incorporates proven Kilian quality and impresses with high availability.

T

he Kilian Prime family of tablet presses is used by pharmaceutical, food and chemical manufacturers

around the world. With a maximum output of 1 020 000 tablets per hour, the Kilian S 710 Prime is classed as a highspeed press. The technology is not only ideal for tablet compression, but also suitable for compressing effervescent tablets and can be readily connected to a packaging line.

This economical solution from Romaco Kilian convinces with excellent value for money and high overall equipment effectiveness.

Availability, performance and quality were top priorities when Kilian developed the S 710 Prime. Fast product changes, short cleaning times and long maintenance intervals ensure optimal availability

DID YOU KNOW?

to be transported without

More than 650 highly skilled and any problems even at committed Romaco employees are dedicated to the development of future very high processing product technologies and improving internal processes. Romaco’s multi-brand speeds or with critical system solutions are sold worldwide tablet geometries. The through six sales and service centres and a dense network of regional universal tablet scraper agent organisations. Over 12 000 installations delivered by can be utilised for any Romaco are currently in use in more than 180 countries. tablet format. The process

and virtually no downtime.

In particular, the hermetic

temperatures have been reduced and ideal production

The new Romaco Kilian S 710 Prime double-sided rotary tablet press

Enhanced sustainability Romaco Kilian’s tablet presses are designed to make a systematic contribution to minimising product loss during tableting. The combination of precision-manufactured die tables

separation between the compaction

conditions created by repositioning

with hardly any radial run-out and

and ‘grey’ areas speeds up cleaning of

the fill shoe drive and gear beyond the

magnetic product scrapers enables more

the tablet press after every batch. Owing

compaction area.

sustainable production.

Renowned service

natural resources with robust and durable

Durable pressure rollers and

components. At the same time, less effort

components result in lower

is necessary for cleaning because the

maintenance costs for Kilian S 710

tablet press has fewer product-contacted

Kilian’s proven fill shoe design and

Prime. Remote Assist, Romaco’s online

parts. This saves time and money, reduces

asymmetrical hopper improve the

support system, means support

energy consumption and eases the

product flow, which is a big advantage

requests can be processed digitally

burden on the environment. •

where powders with poor flow properties

in real time. Error messages can be

are concerned. During tabletting, the

identified and dealt with promptly

brake magnet technology restricts to a

using Call4Service, smart glasses or the

minimum the relative standard deviation

status app.

to the interchangeable die table, the Kilian S 710 Prime is also very versatile.

High product quality and performance

so that consistently high product quality is guaranteed.

The coated tablet chute, which is inclined at 40 degrees, allows the tablets

24

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

Kilian also supports the careful use of

Thanks to Kilian’s ramp-up support, the newly created production capacity can be fully exploited without any undue delay.

Romaco – www.romaco.com

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting FOCUS & Encapsulation

Remote solutions keep MG2 close to customers MG2 has introduced a series of technological projects that are particularly useful in times of social distancing. The main goal of these projects is to stay as close as possible to its partners.

F

or many years, MG2’s website has

during the COVID-19 pandemic, MG2

information on the sophisticated weight-

offered a series of 24-hour services,

has also activated an extraordinary on-

control systems installed on MG2 machines.

such as access to technical

site repair service. Customers can send

documentation via the online service

machine parts to its Pianoro headquarters

Focused on innovation

platform. This can be accessed using

in Bologna, Italy, where they will be repaired

MG2 remains fully operational during the

a dedicated account, which gives the

and sent back to customers.

COVID-19 pandemic. Its customers can

customer an opportunity to view the

count on the company’s consolidated

specific documentation of their machine

Web-based liaisons

while accessing the spare parts catalogue.

Office automation solutions, such as

This web-based access guarantees

Microsoft Office 365 and Teams, allow MG2

networks and artificial intelligence, which

immediate support in the event of technical

to maintain a constant connection with its

will soon be applied to MG2’s capsule

problems, breakages and wearing issues.

customers, even if it’s impossible for them to

filling machines. With these innovations,

To solve the difficulties around the

get to the company's headquarters.

the machines will be capable of self-

movement of both people and goods

MG2 has adopted a wearable

These novelties include studies on neural

managing maintenance (both preventive

technology system based on two video

and predictive), errors and malfunctions.

cameras and a smartphone connected

The self-learning process will be carried out

to the internet. The company’s technicians

during machine daily operation, according

wear this system fitted with a special

to a logic known as ‘predictive quality’.

harness, giving customers a remote live

MGSA Projects is the local agent for MG2

on-site user experience. Filming can include

and its approved distributor throughout

fundamental areas such as special parts

South Africa. •

operation, size change-over, management MG2’s Pianoro headquarters in Bologna, Italy

problem-solving support and key novelties.

of rejected capsules, and real-time

MG2 – www.mg2.it MGSA Projects - mgsaprojects.co.za

Groundbreaking Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Equipment & Supplies Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Supplies Cosmetic mixers, Fillers & packaging machines End of line packaging machines Secondary packaging machines Refurbished Marchesini machines Stickpack packaging machines Tablet presses - tooling, spare parts, polishers, protection & cleaning Ampoule, Vial & Syringe Inspection Equipment Opening Technology Tablet Compression Technology Powder processing & handling Systems Labelling, packaging & shrink sleeves Vacuum pumps and high & ultrahigh vacuum systems Entry level processing, packaging & Laboratory Equipment Plastic bottles unscramblers and feeders Blister & De-blister machines Tablet press overhaul & rebuilds With new acquisitions: Vibrotech, Axomatic, V2 Engineering

Blister machine - format parts Depalletisers & palletisers

Myles Davis - DIRECTOR | +27 (0) 82 460 2766 | myles@mgsaprojects.co.za | www.mgsaprojects.co.za

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

25

INGREDIENTS

Naturally clean sanitising and disinfectant solutions Good hygiene practices are a simple, inexpensive and effective way to prevent the spread of infections. With the increasing use of hand-wash products, sanitisers and disinfectants during the COVID-19 pandemic, there is great opportunity for personal care brands to innovate with new marketing strategies and product designs that provide more sensorially pleasing, alcohol-free products. Millchem offers a wide range of effective and innovative ingredients and formulation technologies from its leading international principals, to meet the increased demand for sanitisers and disinfectants during COVID-19.

Antiseptic technology for alcohol-free applications Benzalkonium chloride (BKC) is a cationic organic quaternary ammonium compound with biocidal properties. It also inhibits growth of microorganisms on the skin and other surfaces.

BKC is a highly water-soluble ingredient; when it is diluted it gets washed off from surfaces and its efficacy is reduced.

HydroSal BKC from Salvona is an encapsulated technology designed to achieve better utilisation of BKC. The incorporation of HydroSal BKC technology as a raw material makes it easy to produce finished products that are more skin friendly and totally alcohol free.

HydroSal BKC is comprised of sub-micron spheres approximately 0.1 to 0.3 microns in diameter. These spheres are infused with BKC and form a clear product.

The polymeric structure can be suspended in water. When HydroSal BKC is applied on a surface, it forms a thin, invisible film that retains the BKC. The release of BKC is triggered with moisture at the applied area.

Hydrosal BKC is effective immediately upon application and has the potential to protect for longer periods. The extended protection results from the property of the shell, which assembles and locks in the BKC. It can be used as an active ingredient in many consumer products, including hand sanitisers, wet wipes, skin antiseptics, spray disinfectants for hard surface sanitation, floor cleaners and hard surface disinfectants.

Create clear gel emulsions The visual effect of transparent cosmetic formulations has great appeal for consumers. It’s easy to obtain transparent gels using polymers, yet for more pleasant sensorial benefits, clear oil-in-water dispersions are generally preferred. Unfortunately, the latter can be challenging to work with for formulators.

The most widely used technique to create a clear oil-in-water dispersion is to prepare microemulsions – thermodynamically stable dispersions with a particle size of roughly 50 nanometers.

However, there are several drawbacks to microemulsions. They require high levels of surfactants that can have an irritating effect; they need a cosurfactant that is typically an insoluble polyol and, because they are thin, they should be thickened using a rheology modifier such as a water-soluble polymer.

Hallstar’s unique multifunctional ingredient, Olivem 2020 overcomes these obstacles. By combining Olivem 2020 with Hallstar’s biomimetic water-soluble emollients, Olivem 300 or Florasolvs Macadamia-16, formulators can create transparent, non-irritating water dispersions with a soft, creamy feel and adjustable viscosity.

Olivem 2020 contains the oil phase ethylhexyl olivate, the cosurfactant polyglyceryl-4 olivate and the polymer sodium acrylates copolymer. By adding Olivem 300 or Florasolvs Macadamia-16, which act as solubilisers, it is possible to obtain transparent emulsions.

26

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS

Approved products effective against COVID-19

Fragrances for antiseptic gels

As health and safety organisations

already producing effective hand sanitiser gels

Certain savvy skin care brands on the market are

continue to closely monitor the respiratory

without the antiseptic aroma, opting for essential oils

disease caused by COVID-19, many brands have asked if Stepan has any US EPAapproved registrations eligible for environmental infectious control of the coronavirus under the US EPA’s emerging viral pathogen guidance.

Stepan offers 19 registered end-use formulations,

and aromatic scents instead. This is evident among organic, environmentally friendly hand sanitiser products on the international market, which are said to ‘smell much better than those with a typical antiseptic aroma’.

Sozio offers a great smelling range of fragrances for antiseptic gels to bring unique elements of freshness and fun to hand sanitiser

which meet the criteria for applications against

products. The range includes:

emerging viral pathogens. These may be considered

• freshness pine with lemon, pine mint and eucalyptus notes

for use as hard surface disinfectants against

• lavender blossom with eucalyptus, lavender pine and musk notes

SARS-CoV-2, the novel coronavirus that causes the

• mint and eucalyptus with pine notes

disease COVID-19.

• a floral aqueous bamboo with green notes of bamboo, melon,

Stepan’s BTC 2125M products are a combination of two distinct quaternaries, dual-quat, which provide a broad spectrum of bacteriological control at

aquatic and rose • a fruity green apple scent with apple, freesia, lily of the valley and musk

an economical cost. BTC 2125M quats are used in

• a floral aqueous aloe vera with rose, violet and sandalwood

disinfectant, deodoriser and sanitiser formulations for

• a floral green aqua cucumber with notes of cucumber, rose, orris

hospitals, nursing homes, public institutions and industry.

BTC quats are compatible with cationics, nonionics

and musk • a citrus grapefruit with rhubarb, blackcurrant and jasmine.

and amphoterics at the proper pH range, as well as alkaline and acid inorganics and most mineral and organic acids.

Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

27

INGREDIENTS

Pure extracts powered by PhytoClean

While ‘clean beauty’ may just be another buzzword for ‘natural beauty’, most brands and formulators will agree that it has more to do with safety than anything else. Formulating products to standards such as COSMOS is a great start. Yet Sensient Cosmetic Technologies recognises that additional standards come both from retailers and consumers, who are becoming increasingly concerned with chemicals versus natural ingredients.

T

PhytoClean ensures a pure, repeatable extraction of the targeted biomass, giving formulators the ability to deliver new and exciting products using natural ingredients

o ensure your ingredients are truly clean, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies (Sensient) recommends partnering with

suppliers that offer deep insight into their techniques and processes.

Harnessing the power of water, Sensient’s patented PhytoClean is a solvent-free clean extraction technology

Table 1: SCT2224 Natural melting hand cream

Phase

Ingredients

INCI

%w/w

Pure water

Aqua

28.85

Butylene glycol

Butylene glycol

10.00

NatPure Xtra Longevity

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycerine

Glycerine

Thickagent LC

Xanthan Gum (and) Hectorite (and) Cellulose

0.30

Emulium Delta MB

Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20

3.00

Cerabeil

Cera Alba

5.00

Stearic acid

Stearic Acid

5.50

Natpure Feel-M Eco

Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl Myristate

B2

Nipaguard SCE

Sorbitan Monooctanoate, 1,3-Propanediol and Benzoic Acid

C

Sodium hydroxide at 10% in pure water

Sodium Hydroxide

1.65

D

White Tea & Rose 546202724

Fragrance

0.20

that expands current extraction capabilities to deliver pure and clean

A

cosmetic ingredients. By combining pressure and temperature, it is possible to enhance the extraction capabilities of

A1

water. The PhytoClean process uses subcritical water, altering the polarity of water to mimic the polarities of solvents, such as ethanol and acetone, allowing a selective

B

extraction of a broad range of biologically active metabolites.

PhytoClean ensures a pure, repeatable extraction of the targeted biomass, giving formulators the ability to deliver new and exciting products using natural ingredients from all ends of the earth. Sensient’s analytical teams work on selecting the right biomasses and guide its extraction experts in order to obtain the NatPure Xtra

0.50 4.0

40.00 1.0

This natural hand care formulation promises to fight against skin ageing. Natpure Feel-M Eco contributes to the rich texture with a silky finish. NatPure Xtra Longevity, a green tea extract sourced from Kenya, stimulates the skin’s defence against oxidative stress to maintain youthful-looking skin

range of natural extracts with guaranteed levels of active molecules.

of natural extracts. It allows us to know,

Kenya, which boosts tea growing due to

for example, that our green tea extract

its altitude, cold climate and volcanic

Pure botanical extracts

induces an overexpression of the genes

soil. This extract has been shown in vitro

The environment has a major impact on

involved in protection and skin renewal,”

to improve the skin barrier and reduce

plant metabolism and active molecule

comments Nicola Barnard-Marais, sales

UV stress, stimulating skin’s defence

function. This is why nature has the ability

account manager of Sensient Cosmetic

against oxidative stress for an anti-

to provide the cosmetics industry with

Technologies South Africa.

beneficial compounds.

“When you add an extract with active

NatPure Xtra natural extracts are highly

ageing effect.

• NatPure Xtra Integrity (INCI: Ilex

concentrated botanical extracts obtained

Guayusa Leaf Extract) is derived from a

molecules on the skin’s cells, you induce a

using Sensient's patented PhytoClean

holly harvested on small family-run farms

differential expression of your genes. This in

process. The range includes:

in the Ecuadorian region of the Amazon

turn induces an effect, or claim. This is how

• NatPure Xtra Longevity (INCI: Camellia

rainforest. This extract has been shown

Sensient’s R&D team approached claim

Sinensis Leaf Extract), a green tea

in vitro to improve the skin barrier and

substantiation of the NatPure Xtra range

sourced from the Nandi Hill region of

reduce inflammation.

28

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS

NatPure Xtra Vitality is derived from rosemary

• NatPure Xtra Vitality (INCI: Rosmarinus

NatPure Xtra Integrity is derived from holly

In the heart of central Uganda,

NatPure Xtra Longevity is derived from green tea leaves

The farm in central Uganda doesn’t

Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract),

perfectly alkaline soil and an ideal

just harvest beautiful, potent rosemary

which is derived from rosemary grown

microclimate enable Sensient’s partner

from the land. It’s certified as a Fair for Life

in Uganda. In vitro studies show this

farm to grow the rosemary used in

farm. This certification sees that human

botanical extract improves the barrier

its NatPure Xtra Vitality botanical

rights are safeguarded, ensures workers

and protects skin from urban dust and

active. Biodynamic farming, which

have access to good working conditions

UV stress.

enhances ecological harmony, is

and smallholder farmers receive a fair

used to harvest rosemary with higher

profit share.

Seed-to-shelf programme

levels of phytochemicals than what is

Ultimately, Sensient has merged ethical

PhytoClean not only brings positive social

typically grown in the Mediterranean.

sourcing, patented extraction and proven

impact through developing socially positive

Subsequently, the solvent-free PhytoClean

performance to meet the highest market

partnerships with suppliers and farmers

technique ensures a pure, repeatable

demands for botanical actives. •

in the regions where raw materials are

extraction of the targeted biomass,

sourced, but also drives the ongoing seed-

backed by in vitro testing. Rosemary

to-shelf programme by Sensient. This ensures

reduces the effects of pollution on

better control over seed quality to optimise

humans, visible in reduction in DNA-

the output of plant pigment or metabolites.

damaging 8-OHdG.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

NATPURE® SCREEN TWG Supercharged aqueous suncreen dispersion

Laboratory of Beauty

Contact our team : nicola.barnardmarais@sensient.com www.sensient-cosmetics.com

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

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INGREDIENTS

Tried, tested and cost-effective ‘care’ ingredients

One of the biggest consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic is the heightened focus on our hygiene habits.

Regular rigorous handwashing has become an integral part of our lives, and when soap and water aren’t available, we use alcohol-based sanitisers. These necessary measures shield us from infection, but at what cost to our skin?

By Karen Maier of Merck South Africa

TEWL, but also acts as a hyperaemic agent, improving blood circulation and imparting a warm sensation on cold hands.

RonaCare Nicotinamide upregulates the biosynthesis of epidermal lipids, especially ceramides, helping skin build up its natural

stretched to the limit, it might be prudent to

protection against dryness and ensuring

return to the tried and tested ingredients that

moisture is retained.

do not break the bank.

An added benefit of including

RonaCare Allantoin first comes to

Nicotinamide in a formulation is its ability to

mind. This ingredient has been around

address hyperpigmentation, helping reduce

for centuries and was used extensively in

age spots on hands while improving the

traditional medicine for its pharmacological

appearance and texture of the skin due to

action and excellent skin care properties.

collagen synthesis.

Allantoin is a mild keratolytic agent, which supports wound healing and skin renewal;

RonaCare Urea

it helps maintain skin’s moisture levels, is

Let’s not forget about RonaCare Urea,

soothing and has a mild cleansing action.

an inexpensive ingredient that packs a

Efficacy tests have shown that RonaCare

N

lot of punch in the fight against moisture

Allantoin enables a visible and effective

loss. It’s a keratolytic agent, humectant

reduction of skin redness, as well as a

with good moisturising action, supports

significant decrease of transepidermal water

skin barrier function and enhances

loss (TEWL) induced by surfactant stress. With

penetration of the skin.

ow, more than ever, we need

its non-toxic, soothing properties, proven

to care for our hands, ensuring

impact on skin’s moisture levels and a low

product to soften, loosen and shed the

the creams, lotions or balms

inclusion rate of 0.1% to 0.5%, Allantoin could

outer layer of the skin) is highly beneficial

we turn to contain safe,

be used very effectively to give back stressed

in the treatment of dry skin. This action not

hands their silky-smooth appearance.

only improves the skin’s moisture binding

effective ingredients that repair, protect,

The keratolytic action (the ability of a

strengthen and soothe the stressed and

capacity, but also reduces the roughness

RonaCare Nicotinamide

overexposed skin.

There are myriad ingredients available

typical of dry, irritated skin.

Vitamin B3 is another tried and tested

that claim to do all these things, but at

ingredient that supports and protects skin

RonaCare Biotin Plus

a time when disposable incomes are

barrier function. Not only does it reduce

The final ingredient in this toolkit is RonaCare Biotin Plus. Biotin is a watersoluble B vitamin known as either vitamin

Table 1: Gel for sensitive skin (MDA-A-198-02)

B7 or vitamin H. Although biotin is not very Phase

A

B

C

Ingredients

INCI

RonaCare Bisabolol nat.

Bisabolol

0.20

Tegosoft DEC

Diethylhexyl Carbonate

4.50

Crodamol ISIS-LQ-(MV)

Isostearyl Isostearate

3.00

Ceraphyl 368

Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Octyl Palmitate)

3.80

Aristoflex AVC

Ammonium Acryloyldimetyltaurate / VP Copolymer

1.00

RonaCare® Urea beads

Urea

5.00

1,2-Propanediol

Propylene Glycol

5.00

Glycerol triacetate

Triacetin

0.01

D-Panthenol

Panthenol

0.20

Preservatives

D

q.s.

Water, demineralised

Aqua (Water)

Fragrance

Parfum

Relieve raw hands formulation example

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%w/w

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

bio-available, it has proven benefits for skin, nail and hair care.

The solution to the bio-availability challenge is RonaCare Biotin Plus – a synergistic combination of biotin and urea which improves the water solubility of biotin 70-fold. This advances the penetration of biotin into the stratum corneum, which enables the vitamin to work optimally. Biotin strengthens the skin barrier and can be used in the treatment of thin, sallow, dry and scaly skin. •

ad 100 q.s.

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

INGREDIENTS

Preservatives from natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basket In the increasingly popular category of natural cosmetics, staying true to nature and helping formulators deliver a naturalbased product can be challenging when it comes to product preservation. To address this challenge, Sami-Sabinsa offers SabiLize-New â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a truly natural preservative with proven efficacy.

C

osmetic products can easily become contaminated by bacteria and fungi, resulting in a

spoiled product. Most cosmetics are made up of oil, water and other biodegradable ingredients, which present an optimum medium for the growth of microbes. This is why preservatives are vital to maintain the quality of a product and ensure its safe for use on skin.

The global cosmetics market is valued at around $460bn and is expected to reach $675bn by the end of 2020, accounting for 6.4% growth per year. Therefore, the increasing market requires continuous monitoring and multidimensional control of toxic ingredients and microbial contamination1.

Skin, the largest organ of the body, is

Figure 1: The antioxidant effect on free radicals

constantly exposed to the environment and bears the brunt of invasion of

oxidation phenomena and the formation

natural substances or which are extracts

pathogens, irritants and harsh chemicals2.

of free radicals8. In order to establish an

with antimicrobial properties.

It also harbours symbiotic microbes, which

effective inhibitory property, a preservative

provide protection from pathogenic or

should have broad-spectrum activity

preservatives, natural substances or extracts

harmful organisms3, 4.

and a longer shelf life than the cosmetic

have received a great deal of attention in

product itself 9.

last few years because of their improved

Cosmetic products can become

Compared to conventional synthetic

exposed to or are prone to microbial

The most widely accepted and reliable

contamination during manufacturing

method of preservation includes chemicals

(primary contamination) and/or

that are either synthesised from petroleum

Natural preservatives

during consumer use (secondary

derivatives or are sourced from vegetable

These are ingredients from nature which

contamination)5, 6. Therefore, it is very

extracts, as well as those produced using

are not chemically synthesized or artificially

important to select effective preservatives, which prevent microbial contamination without altering the skin microbiome7.

Table 1: Antimicrobial activity of active factions and SabiLize-New

Active fraction/Blend

Minimum inhibitory concentration11 Staphylococcus aureus

Two distinct groups of preservatives that are generally used to maintain

sustainability profile and safer nature10.

Escherichia coli

Candida albicans

Thyme oil

0.3

0.3

0.7

Monolaurin

0.12

NA

0.25

on microorganisms, and antioxidant

Magnolol

0.08

NA

0.08

preservatives capable of suppressing

SabiLize-New

0.07

0.4

0.07

the skin microbiome include, antimicrobial preservatives, which act

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| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS processed. They can be classified as anti-microbial, antioxidant and may have additional properties of preventing the ageing of cosmetics.

SabiLize ® -New, a patented proprietary product of Sami-Sabinsa, is a blend of natural antimicrobial actives

It is very important to select effective preservatives, which prevent microbial contamination without altering the skin microbiome

with proven preservative efficacy.

This product comprises essential oil fractions and extracts of monolaurin from Cocus nucifera, thyme oil from Thymus vulgaris and magnolol from Magnolia officinalis.

At 0.5% concentration, SabiLize-New has shown to be significantly effective against strains of Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger. The product also showed minimal ocular irritation and no irritation of the dermal layer (see Table 1).

oxidation process (see Figure 1). Sabinsa offers a wide range of antioxidants: • SabiLize-New shows excellent antioxidant activity with an ORAC value of 7394.58 ± 256.16 (μmol TE/g).

Furthermore, the IC50 value of DPPH scavenging potential was found to be 54.07μg/mℓ.

• pTeroWhite ®, a natural 90% pterostilbene isolated from heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium (Indian Kino), is clinically proven as a skin brightening and antiageing product. It is one of the few

Antioxidant agents Free-radical scavenger molecules or antioxidants help in modulating the

SKIN-FRIENDLY NATURAL INGREDIENTS

natural products evaluated for a natural sun protection factor (SPF) in humans.

• LactoSporin is also an antioxidant with free radical scavenging activity with an IC50 value of 0.43% v/v.

These natural products are promising

SABINSA ALSO HAS a unique portfolio of natural

ingredients in maintaining healthy skin

products to maintain the skin microbiome and

and efficiently enhancing the shelf life of

protect the skin from damage. LactoSporin , a

cosmetics and personal care products.

non-living microbial cell product obtained from

They are a healthier option when

the supernatant of the probiotic strain, Bacillus

compared to synthetic products, as they

coagulans MTCC 5856 (LactoSpore®), maintains

are environmentally friendly and have a

®

the skin microbiome balance by acting as antibacterial agent. It also provides protection against phototoxicity and reduces skin glycation. These

better safety profile. •

REFERENCES: 1. Halla, N., et al., Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies. Molecules, 2018. 23(7).

2. Farage, M.A., The Prevalence of Sensitive Skin. Frontiers in Medicine, 2019. 6(98).

3. Grice, E.A. and J.A. Segre, The skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol, 2011. 9(4): p. 244-53.

4. Chen, Y.E., M.A. Fischbach, and Y. Belkaid, Skin microbiota-host interactions. Nature, 2018. 553(7689): p. 427-436.

5. Mitsui, T., New cosmetic science. 1997: Elsevier.

6. Pitt, T., et al., Bacillus cereus in personal care products: risk to consumers. International journal of cosmetic science, 2015.

37(2): p. 165-174.

7. Smith, C. and B. Alexander, The relative cytotoxicity of personal care preservative systems in Balb/C 3T3 clone A31 embryonic mouse cells and the effect of selected preservative systems upon the toxicity of a standard rinse-off formulation. Toxicology in vitro, 2005. 19(7): p. 963-969.

8. Martini, M.C., Conservateurs. In Cosmétologie et Dermatologie Esthétique. Vol. 1. 2006, Paris, France: Elsevier Masson.

9. Toler, J.C., Preservative stability and preservative systems. Int J Cosmet Sci, 1985. 7(4): p. 157-64.

10. Natural Preservatives: A Realistic Replacement? 2011 [cited 2020 16/05/2020] www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/7938/ natural-preservatives-a-realistic-replacement.

11. Goswami, D., et al., Boswellia serrata oleo-gum-resin and β-boswellic acid inhibits HSV-1 infection in vitro through modulation of NF-кB and p38 MAP kinase signaling.

Phytomedicine: international journal of phyto-therapy and phytopharmacology, 2018. 51: p. 94-103.

12. Chouhan, S., K. Sharma, and S. Guleria, Antimicrobial Activity of Some Essential Oils-Present Status and Future Perspectives.

Medicines (Basel, Switzerland), 2017. 4(3): p. 58.

Sabinsa – www.sabinsa.com

actives show the antimicrobial activity by disrupting the cellular membrane, hampering the membrane integrity and inducing cell wall leakage12.

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

33

INGREDIENTS

Effective natural cleansing solutions The beauty and personal care industry is shifting due to the COVID-19 pandemic with brand owners and manufacturers increasingly focused on producing hand hygiene and effective cleansing solutions. Stephenson is also experiencing a growing demand for its soap bases and natural cleansing products as the global need for hygiene products intensifies. By Agne Roke, digital communications manager

S

tephenson’s sales and marketing

worldwide recommend washing hands

director, James Clews, explains:

with soap and water whenever possible as

care ingredients that include a range of

Stephenson offers natural personal

“The company is experiencing a

it protects us from further spreading viruses

sustainable emulsifiers and solubilisers. The

surge in client demand right across our

and germs etc. But if soap and water are

Durosoft range of polyglyceryl esters can

range of soap bases, as hand washing

not available, using a hand sanitiser with

aid product formulation for mild, natural

increases worldwide.”

at least 60% alcohol is another option.

formulations suitable for sensitive skin.

While there is growth in effective

Research into the use of consumer

Natural cleansing oil provides a gentle

cleansing solutions, customers are also

antibacterial soaps has shown that

cleansing solution for sensitive skin and

looking for natural and sustainable

plain soaps are just as effective as their

can be formulated with natural Durosoft

products providing gentle cleansing

antibacterial counterparts in reducing

ingredients. Stephenson’s skin and eye-

to protect the skin microbiome and

bacteria-related illnesses. In fact, using

friendly cleanser formulation (see Table 1)

products that address skin sensitivity as a

consumer antibacterial soap products

gently removes makeup, dirt and oil from

result of stringent hand washing and skin

may increase bacterial resistance to

the face, body and hands.

dryness caused by high levels of alcohol

antibiotics in some bacteria.

High demand for safe naturals

in hand sanitisers.

Consumers are not only looking for

Hand hygiene intensifies

Addressing increased skin sensitivity

Keeping hands clean is one of the most

In the current global climate where

sustainable products free from irritants.

important steps people can take to avoid

hand washing has increased, there is a

In South Africa, the natural movement

illness and stop spreading germs. Many

need to address consumer demand for

continues to shape the beauty industry,

diseases and conditions are spread by

solutions caused by skin dryness and

with the demand for safe, natural and

poor hand hygiene as a result of not

increased skin sensitivity. Brands and

effective beauty products not slowing

washing hands and a lack of access to

manufacturers offering products that

down. According to a recent report from

soap and clean, running water.

address needs for milder and gentler

Mintel, around 80% of consumers agree

cleansing are benefitting from growing

that products with natural ingredients are

consumer interest.

better for the skin. Similarly, sustainability

Government bodies, healthcare organisations and healthcare experts

effective solutions, but also natural and

is placed high when it comes to purchasing decisions.

If you’re looking for natural ingredients, Stephenson’s local distribution partner, Brenntag, can meet your needs for a wide variety of product applications using the Durosoft range. From waterless formulations to natural cleansers and moisturisers with great sensory attributes, both during and after application, Durosoft natural ingredients are dermatologically tested, COSMOSapproved and sustainable.

Effective cleansing for home and personal care According to a Mintel report released this year, ‘touchless’ applications

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| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS are also in demand as a result of the pandemic. This is why naturally

Table 1: Facial cleansing oil

Ingredient

INCI

Function

%w/w

highly sought after. Sold in pump

Durosoft PG10L-SG

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Emulsifier

1.0

packaging, they allow a reduction of

Durosoft PG4-O

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Emulsifier

10.0

Grapeseed Oil

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

Restructure damaged and stressed skin tissue

87.9

Camelina Oil

Camelina Sativa Seed (Camelina) Oil

Anti-inflammatory/emollient

1.0

Vitamin E

Tocopherol

Antioxidant

0.1

derived effective liquid soaps are

the exchange of germs between users and offer convenience in comparison to solid soaps.

The technical team at Stephenson has developed a novel liquid soap base, Liquid Soap 2020, which is suitable for use both in personal and home care

The key ingredients in this formulation are Durosoft PG10CY-MB, an effective non-ionic solubiliser derived from RSPO Mass Balanced palm kernel oil, and Durosoft PG4-O, a water-in-oil emulsifier perfect for creating thick formulations with low oil content

applications. Naturally derived, it has been specifically formulated to be an effective all-purpose liquid soap for washing the

Soap 105C, which is COSMOS-

hands and body, and for the multi-purpose

approved and Soil-certified for brands

cleansing of hard surfaces and floors.

that have a focus on such claims.

Click on this link https://bit.ly/3bgLyfv

This product is well-established in the

to learn more about Liquid Soap 2020,

global market and has become a

which comes ready to use and is backed

firm favourite among manufacturers

by high availability and attractive lead

and formulators alike. Click on this link

times. It is already being shipped to

https://bit.ly/3dvAGfD to learn more

multiple distributors across Stephenson’s

about Liquid Soap 105C. •

established global networks in 5kg kegs and 1 000kg intermediate bulk containers.

Stephenson also offers a fully natural and organic soap, Liquid

DID YOU KNOW?

Gentle cleansers for the hands, face and body are highly sought after, as well as natural products like micellar water, which offer cleansing solutions providing water-saving and waterless benefits. Stephenson offers a variety of application and formulation ideas available for download via this link: https://bit.ly/2W8VljE.

Brenntag – www.brenntag.co.za Stephenson – www.stephensonpersonalcare.com

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

35

INGREDIENTS

How to combat the effects of increased hand hygiene measures By adding value to hand sanitisers and developing formulations for nourishing post-handwashing treatments, Mibelle Biochemistry is helping brand owners and manufacturers innovate in times of increased hygiene measures.

T

he coronavirus pandemic has had an

and protects skin from infections with

is likely going to remain. However, the

extreme impact on everyday life. The

pathogenic bacteria. Dry skin is also more

differentiation of sanitiser products will

personal care industry has observed

likely to develop fine lines and wrinkles,

soon become apparent with the use of

this impact, with many manufacturers

indicating that the long-term and frequent

active ingredients to protect and moisturise

shifting their focus to produce hand

application of hand sanitisers could

the skin and quickly restore the microflora

sanitiser and disinfectant products. This

contribute to premature skin ageing.

after washing. Products formulated with

has seen the industry react promptly to

As the global pandemic continues

these ingredients will offer consumers

meet the massively increased demand for

and our awareness of enhanced hygiene

additional benefits and provide an

hand sanitisers.

is raised, the need for hand sanitisers

excellent opportunity for the improvement

Yet the continuous use of hand sanitisers could cause a number of skin problems.

Alcohol-based products and frequent washing leave the skin dry, irritated and disturb its natural defence barrier.

As the barrier function is impaired, the skin becomes more prone to irritation, which results in itchiness and atopic skin conditions. By non-selectively killing all types of micro-organisms, alcohol also harms the balanced natural microflora,

of hand sanitisers.

Soothing and hydrating after-care products will become popular to improve the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s condition during this period of increased hand hygiene

which contributes to the barrier function

Soothing actives Mibelle Biochemistry, represented locally

by Carst & Walker, offers a variety of safe and effective active ingredients which match these demands and can be incorporated into various types of formulations.

AquaCacteen, an ultra-refined elixir sourced from prickly pear (Opuntia ficusindica), has been shown to block the release of the calcitonin gene-related

Figure 1: Black BeeOme promotes faster recolonisation of the skin microflora after washing

Figure 2: Inhibition of TRPV1 receptor activation by pentapeptide-59 (SensAmone P5)

peptide â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a stress marker that initiates an inflammation process â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from sensory nerve cells in the skin, soothing and calming irritated skin. It also reduces surfactantinduced irritation, redness and hydrates the skin, even in rinse-off formulations. The benefits of AquaCacteen can be realised in hand sanitisers and liquid soaps as well as post-treatment care.

Alpine Rose Active, a purified extract of organic alpine rose leaves, has an anti-

36

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS

viral effect by preventing virus adhesion to skin’s cells and reducing virus activity.

Moreover, it protects the proteins of the skin from oxidative stress while reducing redness and increasing skin elasticity. The wide range of activities of this ingredient makes it ideal for the formulation of advanced hand sanitisers.

Pinolumin, a concentrated extract of Swiss stone pine wood, is an active ingredient that calms and relaxes

DID YOU KNOW?

With a product developed in cooperation with Venomtech in the category of post-treatments, Mibelle Biochemistry has formulated a soothing post-sanitiser hand cream with SensAmone P5. It is an ideal aftercare solution for dry skin caused by the frequent use of hand sanitiser. The rich formulation calms sensitive skin and reduces irritation. It is quickly absorbed and delivers immediate comfort for your hands.

irritated skin. Studies have proven its

with the surfactant SDS. This proves the capability of this active to reinforce the skin’s self-protection and moisture-retaining capacity. In addition, skin redness, which typically occurs following washing stress or disinfection, was reduced upon treatment with EpiCalmin TCM. This hydrating and soothing active ingredient is ideally incorporated in post-sanitising care products.

SensAmone P5 is a biomimetic pentapeptide based on the protein

anti-inflammatory activity as it inhibits the

APHC1 from the leathery sea anemone.

release of two potent pro-inflammatory

Post-sanitiser care

The pentapeptide was developed in

mediators, IL-8 and PGE2, preventing

Active ingredients that moisturise the skin

collaboration with scientists at Venomtech

the inflammation process. Clinical

are becoming especially important, as skin

(UK), who are experts in venom-based

studies confirmed this effect, showing

is being dried out by hand sanitisers and

drug discovery. APHC1 represents the

that Pinolumin visibly reduces local

soaps. Mibelle Biochemistry showed that

first described polypeptide inhibitor

redness. This active ingredient is ideal for

Trimoist KMF mimics the three elements of

of the TRPV1 pain receptor and was

formulation in disinfectants to immediately

the skin’s own moisture balance system.

shown to have ameliorating effects on

counteract the harmful effects of alcohol

Film-forming polysaccharides protect

the pain response in acute and chronic

on the skin.

the skin, while lamellar lipids repair the

pain models. The sequence of the

moisture barrier and humectants provide

pentapeptide was optimised to model

Rebuilding the barrier

an instant burst of hydration. Through this

the TRPV1 binding sequence of APHC1

Soothing and hydrating after-care

triple action, Trimoist KMF provides instant

to render the soothing effect of the sea

products will become popular to improve

and all-day hydration while strengthening

anemone protein available for cosmetics

the skin’s condition during this period of

skin’s own moisture barrier. As a

formulations (see Figure 2). SensAmone P5

increased hand hygiene. Several of Mibelle

consequence, this increases skin elasticity,

is therefore a novel neurocosmetic active

Biochemistry’s key ingredients provide

firmness and smoothness.

which calms sensitive, overreactive skin

additional benefits for these products.

Immediate and deep hydration of the

CM-Glucan Forte, a special beta

skin is also achieved with PolyFructol Plus, a

skin’s response to stress. As a result, the

glucan from baker’s yeast, rebalances

highly concentrated solution of the plant-

itching and stinging sensation of sensitive

the skin’s immune system, calms

based oligosaccharide inulin isolated from

skin is reduced.

sensitive and itching skin and alleviates

the roots of chicory (Chicorium intybus).

skin discomfort in less than one week.

This active ingredient is a great 48-hour

Moreover, it has an anti-inflammatory

moisturiser for leave-on and rinse-off

A good reason for brands to add value

effect and prevents the adhesion of

formulations. It also enhances the skin’s

In conclusion, hand sanitisers and liquid

Staphylococcus aureus to reduce skin

elasticity and firmness while protecting

soaps will gain added value by providing

infections caused by this potentially

and regenerating the barrier after

immediate protection from the desiccating

pathogenic bacteria.

washing stress. PolyFructol Plus is ideal for

effects of alcohol and surfactants. This

formulation in post-washing treatments for

can be easily achieved by formulating

long-term hydration.

active ingredients with moisturising and

Black BeeOme is an ingredient of choice to further support the replenishment of skin’s natural and

The synergic combination of three plants

and reduces irritation to minimise the

soothing effects, especially in sanitisers

balanced microflora after hand

commonly used in traditional Chinese

intended for regular use. Moreover,

disinfection or washing. It is obtained by

medicine (TCM) – Japanese honeysuckle

repairing, soothing and moisturising post-

fermenting the honey of an extremely

(Lonicera japonica), Siberian cocklebur fruit

treatments are becoming increasingly

resistant and rare dark bee species. In

(Xanthium sibiricum) and purple nutsedge

important to protect the skin from

vitro and clinical studies have shown

roots (Cyperus rotundus) – led to the

premature ageing and the negative

that after harsh washing, Black BeeOme

development of EpiCalmin TCM. Following

effects caused by disinfectants. •

promotes faster regeneration of the

barrier disruption through washing stress,

skin microflora (see Figure 1) as well as

skin hydration was greatly increased by

restoration of the skin barrier, leaving the

EpiCalmin TCM and remained at a high

skin soft and feeling comfortable.

value even after a second challenge

Carst & Walker – carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – mibellebiochemistry.com

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

37

INGREDIENTS

Unique formulations

inspired by Japanese Zen Clariant Active Ingredients’ new formulation concept, Zenspiration, takes inspiration from the sophisticated simplicity and science-backed ethos of J-Beauty. It also helps the cosmetics industry meet consumer demand for ‘less is more’ through high-quality, high-performing care products.

J

apan, the world’s second-largest

Zenspiration formulations

skin to help prevent premature ageing. It

beauty market, has a rich and long

Designed with sensorial excellence

leaves a silky soft finish, helping the user

history of traditional beauty care,

and Japanese Zen principles in

rise above life’s daily stresses.

embodied by authentic elegance and

mind, Zenspiration features three

simplicity. Japanese beauty (J-Beauty)

formulations that work as a basis for a

Rebalancing scalp toner

focuses on minimalist routines and

day cream, scalp toner and solid skin

Kanso – meaning simplicity – gave rise

research-proven ingredients to highlight

serum. Each formulation illustrates a

to the simply rebalancing scalp toner,

natural beauty and achieve a fresh,

different principle of Japanese Zen

which relates to basic simplicity and

youthful complexion and hydrated skin.

and incorporates ingredients with

the elimination of the ornate. Objects

Multi-purpose products and traditional

scientifically proven efficacy, including

expressing simplicity are appraised by their

ingredients with known benefits are key to

Rootness Energize and Equiscalp, which

nature as truthful and reserved, involving

keeping the regimen simple yet effective –

are new nature-derived ingredients from

a sense of cleanliness and clarity through

and its basic values have become sought

Clariant Active Ingredients.

the elimination of non-essential clutter.

Energising water cream

toner contains 16 ingredients, including

leave little time for complex regimes. So,

Datsuzoku – meaning enlightened –

those recognised to support the scalp

many women are rejecting the over-

inspired the energising water cream. This

microbiome and scalp wellbeing to

purchasing of beauty products, reducing

formulation provides the feeling of serenity

provide relief and comfort from irritation.

their daily usage. This trend is evident in

and happiness one gets when you realise

This toner is built around EquiScalp,

the US among consumers under the age

the daily stresses of life are irrelevant to

rebalancing sebum production while

of 35 and in France, where consumers

your true self. The concept is captured in

being mild to scalp’s microbiota. This

mainly follow simple facial care routines,”

the cream by delivering the replenishing

powerful toner combines the soothing

comments Alexandre Lapeyre, global

and skin energy-boosting powers of

benefits of Eosidin, the resynchronising

head of marketing, Clariant Active

Rootness Energize. With Epseama,

properties of B-Circadin and the refreshing

Ingredients. “There’s a growing need for

HerbCool and WaterinPlus, the formulation

touch of Actience Fresh.

multi-functional products and trustworthy

also supports full hydration and guards the

after worldwide.

“Time pressures and daily stresses

The Kanso simply rebalancing scalp

ingredients. Zenspiration brings together

On-the-glow solid serum

all the elements needed for formulators

Shibui – meaning subtle – inspired the on-

to rise above the ordinary and reinforce

the-glow solid serum. Beautiful simplicity is

natural beauty.”

perceivable through time and experience.

One does not tire of a Shibui object and constantly finds new meanings and enriching beauty that cause its aesthetic value to grow. Clariant Active Ingredients has translated this into a serum developed in a practical stick format which, application after application, reveals its true powers of

Zenspiration brings together all the elements needed for formulators to rise above the ordinary and reinforce natural beauty 38

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

soothing. Formulated with Calmyang Wax to soothe the skin and natural Bisabolol Alpha-Melight for a more uniform skin tone and age-spot reduction, the serum brings newly found appreciation for natural beauty, perfecting skin’s healthy glow. •

Clariant Active Ingredients – www.clariant.com/zenspiration

INGREDIENTS

New silicone fluid emulsion and gloss agent Munich-based chemical company Wacker has added two products to its silicone portfolio for hair care products: the silicone fluid emulsion Belsil DM 3200 E and the gloss agent Belsil PF 100. Both products are available immediately. Wacker has also launched an online presentation of its new anti-pollution formulation.

B

elsil DM 3200 E is a fine-particle

supple. Laboratory tests

emulsion of a high-viscosity

have shown that the

dimethiconol in water. The emulsion

force needed to

has a low viscosity and is straightforward

comb wet treated

to use. It is ideal for formulating hair

hair is reduced

care products, where it serves as a

by more than

conditioning component in shampoos

50% compared

and conditioners. The emulsion makes hair

to untreated hair.

easier to comb after washing and leaves it

What’s more, the

feeling pleasantly soft to the touch.

hair’s suppleness

The good conditioning properties of the high-molecular viscous silicone were unlocked with the development of

Used as an active ingredient in shampoos and conditioners, Belsil DM 3200 E protects the scaly surface of the hair, making it easier to comb after washing

The new phenyl silicone fluid not only imparts a high level of sheen to

is increased

hair but also leaves

by 30%.

it feeling pleasantly soft

A further feature

to the touch and easier to

a patented production process that is

of Belsil DM 3200 E is its

capable of dispersing the dimethiconol in

extraordinarily low content of

the form of tiny droplets. When the hair is

cyclic silicone oligomers. Thanks to the

and decorative cosmetics, Belsil PF

shampooed, the emulsion’s silicone fluid

new production process, the emulsion’s

100 enhances their gloss and colour

droplets, which are just 160 nanometres in

content lies well below 0.1%. This means

brilliance. The sheen of hair oils can

diameter, are deposited selectively on the

that shampoo and hair care formulations

be given a particularly high boost by

hair fibres, protecting the hair much better

are now available with a particularly low

combining Belsil PF 100 with a silicone

than less finely dispersed emulsions.

content of cyclic compounds.

elastomer gel, such as Belsil EG 6000. •

comb. When added to lip balms

Belsil DM 3200 E has dual benefits – it makes wet hair exceptionally easy to

Gloss agent Belsil PF 100

comb and leaves dry hair feeling soft and

Complementing the company’s silicone portfolio, BELSIL PF 100 is a phenyl-

NEW ANTI-POLLUTION FORMULATION

modified, polyfunctional product and

THE KEY OBJECTIVE of Wacker’s new anti-pollution

colourless fluid. It is virtually free of

formulation is the prevention of oxidative stress,

cyclic silicone oligomers and has been

which can be triggered by harmful environmental

designed for use in hair care products

factors, such as UV radiation, exhaust fumes and

and decorative cosmetics. Its refractive

heavy metals present in fine dust. These aggressors

index of 1.464 is higher than that of

can lead to the generation of free radicals in and on

polydimethylsiloxanes and even more

the skin, causing it to age prematurely.

higher than that of conventional phenyl

Wacker’s anti-pollution formulation has three

silicone fluids. As a result, Belsil PF 100

approaches:

makes a highly effective gloss agent for

1. protecting the skin and surface of the hair with the

the cosmetics industry.

By virtue of its molecular structure, Belsil PF 100 is soluble in organic solvents and many plant-based oils. This gloss agent can be used to make oil-based

help of film-forming silicones 2. using UV absorbers 3. deactivating free radicals with radical scavengers and antioxidants.

The formulation also includes HTEssence, a

transparent formulations in which there

nature-identical hydroxytyrosol, which is one of

is a need to replace cyclopentasiloxanes

the most powerful bioactive antioxidants used in

with organic fluids.

cosmetics and nutritional supplements. For more

There are many applications for the

information, click on this link: https://bit.ly/2WX4DzI.

modified phenyl silicone fluid, ranging BELSIL PF 100 has a high refractive index and is compatible with organic oils

from hair care and hairstyling products to lip balms and colour cosmetics.

Wacker – www.wacker.com

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

39

INGREDIENTS

Claims, compliance and consumer awareness tips Ingredients in the formulation of a product are arguably the most important aspect of any consumer product, as it’s the formulation that produces the desired effect.

Cosmetic products are no exception to this, as they are used to deliver an effect, be it ‘cleansing, perfuming, correcting body odours, conditioning, beautifying, protecting, or promoting attractiveness’.

By Yashmay Gordhon, CTFA

T

he aesthetic appeal of packaging,

This harmonised listing of ingredients

together with product claims, and

across different countries allows

the product descriptor itself are often

consumers to identify and recognise

foremost to pique a consumer’s interest in

ingredient names on cosmetics sold

a product. However, the formulation that

worldwide. This system of naming

will provide the desired effect is no longer

ingredients also eliminates confusion that

overlooked. Consumers are increasingly

may arise as a result of listing ingredient

aware of ingredients considered ‘good’,

trade names or common names, which

‘clean’ or ‘safe’, and those that are

can differ from country to country.

considered ‘unhealthy’ or ‘unsafe’ –

Understanding cosmetic ingredients has become increasingly important in terms of their description, limits for use and use restrictions

Health’s (DOH) Government Notice R1469

social media. Understanding cosmetic

draft Regulations relating to Labelling,

ingredients has become increasingly

Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics,

important in terms of their description, limits

22 December 2017, the requirement

for use and use restrictions and the actual

for a cosmetic ingredient listing is that

meaning of ingredient claims made on

the labelling of a product must include

packaging. Like any product, consumers

‘the list of ingredients according to INCI

develop an interest in certain trends, which

nomenclature’. Should the packaging

often dictates the types of ingredients

be too small, the ingredient listing must

consumers actively seek or prefer.

appear ‘on an attached leaflet, label, inlay, tape, tag or card’ or ‘on a notice in

Naming and labelling ingredients

the cosmetic product is exposed for sale’.

extracts, seeds, juices and powders to

The restrictions outlined

preservatives, colourants, diluents and

Similar to pharmaceuticals, for safety

solvents etc. Differing from pharmaceutical

reasons, certain ingredients can be

products, cosmetics do not contain

used with specified limits and/or under

‘active ingredients’, as this would denote

certain restrictions only. The Annexes

a medicinal function, which a cosmetic

of Government Notice R 1469 draft

product does not provide.

Regulations Relating to Labelling,

The cosmetic ingredient listing also

Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics,

differs from other consumer products, in

22 December 2017, provides the legislative

that it must adhere to a specific system

requirements for such ingredients. In some

International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients or INCI. | JUNE 2020 | P C Review

close proximity to the container in which

Cosmetic ingredients range from

of naming ingredients, known as the

40

As outlined by the Department of

often informed by the hype created by

cases, the use of restricted ingredients must be accompanied by a warning statement on the label to ensure that

INGREDIENTS the consumer is informed about the

The main issue with free-from claims

use conditions of the product when

is that the ingredients highlighted are

purchasing or using the product, and

those that are permitted in cosmetics

to prevent the use of the product under

and do not appear on Annex I of the DOH

incorrect conditions, which may lead to an

draft regulations. In other words, they are

adverse reaction.

neither banned ingredients nor have they

Allergens are often constituents of

been proven to be unsafe. Examples of

fragrance ingredients. There are currently

non-content claims include ‘paraben-

26 fragrance allergens; their presence

free’, ‘sulphate-free’ and ‘colourant-free’.

must be explicitly indicated on the product

Stating the absence of such ingredients

label should their concentration exceed

denigrates a competitor’s product.

0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in

Consumers are also made to believe that

rinse-off products. IFRA, the International

products containing these ingredients

Fragrance Association lists the fragrance

are unsafe or undesirable. An important

ingredients that are prohibited or should

exception is made when providing

only be used under specified conditions.

additional information to consumers who

This list was updated in 2020 and is

may want to avoid ingredients based on

important to consider when developing

specific reasons such as religious beliefs

fragrance-containing products.

or allergies. These may include ‘alcoholfree’ for consumers who avoid alcohol

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Yashmay Gordhon (MPharm) is a pharmacist, currently working as the regulatory affairs officer at the CTFA.

Ingredient claims and concentrations

for religious purposes. This is also true in

These are claims made on labels to denote

is strictly necessary for a specific benefit

studies showing desirable effects, such as

the presence of a certain ingredient in

e.g. sulphate-free on products intended for

a breakthrough anti-ageing ingredient,

the formulation. These claims are most

chemically straightened hair.

or the discovery of a natural compound’s

often used as a marketing tool, so that the

cases where the absence of an ingredient

The EU published a Technical Document

cosmetic benefits. These are often

consumer is made explicitly aware that the

on Cosmetic Product Claims, which

advertised in the media, which together

benefit of the particular ingredient will be

became effective on 1 July 2019. The

with consumer research often results in an

provided when the product is used.

document is an update of the Guidelines

interest in a particular ingredient.

For example, a brand may want to

to Commission Regulations (EU) No.

Consumers also desire ingredients that

advertise on-label that an anti-dandruff

655/2013 laying down common criteria for

are ‘clean’ and in the consumer’s mind, this

shampoo ‘contains climbazole’. This claim

the justification of claims used in relation

includes simple ingredients that have not

may assist the consumer in making a

to cosmetic products, published in 2013.

been refined, such as ‘organic’ and ‘natural’

quicker purchase decision. However, the

This includes guidance on claims of the

raw materials. Halaal or vegan ingredients

concentration of the ingredient in the

free-from type and disallows claims of this

have also become a consideration for

formulation is a vital consideration. It is

nature for products destined for sale in the

cosmetics. Products that comply to these

imperative that, in order to avoid misleading

EU. Since South Africa’s cosmetic industry

food industry standards usually accompany

consumers, the claimed ingredient must

standards on advertising within the self-

a logo denoting its certification, for added

be present at a concentration that will

regulated environment are informed by

consumer assurance.

provide the desired benefit or effect.

that of the EU, the technical committee

These effective use concentrations are

of CTFA has decided to allow a transition

have become more knowledgeable and

unique to each ingredient; this information

period for the industry. Compliance to

well-informed about ingredients to look

should be readily obtainable from the raw

this requirement will be expected from

out for, and those that they prefer not to

material supplier. It's important to note that

1 September 2021, following which the

be included in cosmetic formulations.

the ingredient claim and the associated

relevant amendments will be affected in

Ingredient choices when formulating, as

use concentration require scientific

the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium and

well as the way that they are presented

substantiation. Making an ingredient claim

the Advertising Regulatory Board’s Code

to the consumer have thus become vital

without ensuring that the above conditions

of Advertising Practice – Appendix B

to maintain transparency and avoid

are met (while adhering to maximum

(Cosmetics). CTFA will continue to inform

misleading consumers, which promotes

allowed limits) is disallowed.

the industry of the upcoming changes

consumer safety. •

Due to a variety of trends, consumers

and advises that labels be amended

Free-from claims

accordingly to meet the requirements of

REFERENCES:

Non-content claims on packaging

the compliance period.

• Advertising Regulatory Board (2019). Code of advertising practice

advertising the absence of a particular ingredient are often an attractive

Tracking the trends

marketing tool. This is a way to promote

Trends in the cosmetic industry often result

a product by ensuring that potential

in a shift towards formulating with certain

consumers are aware that the product

ingredients that have been found to be

does not contain certain substances, often

beneficial. Sometimes these are proven to

positioned as undesirable on social media.

be beneficial through the latest scientific

• Department of Health (1972). Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act: Act 54 of 1972 • Department of Health (2017). Government Notice R 1469 Regulations Relating to Labelling, Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics, 22 December 2017 • Ifrafragrance.org. 2020. Code of Practice. [online] Available at https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/code-of-practice-new • South African Bureau of Standards (2012). SANS 98: Ingredient Labelling of Cosmetic Products.

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

41

AEROSOLS

Industry steps up to help fight COVID-19 According to the AMA, the South African aerosol industry put up its hand immediately as the State President, Minister of Health and the Minister of Trade and Industry began looking for more suppliers of hand sanitisers, ventilators, disinfectants, alcohol, gas and other essential items needed in the fight against COVID-19.

W

ithin 24 hours, 30 companies

According to information included in the

had responded by close of

AMA’s recent bulletin, sanitising products

business on 26 March and went

may fall into various regulatory groups

onto register for CIPC certificates in order

depending on the:

to continue production and ensure safe

• application surface (human skin or

passage for their employees.

Even non-members of the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (AMA) joined

inanimate surface) • environment the sanitiser is used in (place of use)

hands in the industry’s effort and new

• intended use and function

players identified themselves too.

• composition.

Nick Tselentis, executive director of the

Hand sanitisers are generally regarded

Retail statistics IN MARCH, household cleaning and hygiene and personal care categories showed strong growth. In April, hand sanitisers in all forms took off, while a settling-down period has been evident since early May. Source: AMA the home, public venues (schools and

AMA, says much good can and will come

as rub or leave on products primarily used

restaurants), health institutions, health

out of this.

to sanitise the skin, when soap and water

professional consulting rooms and clinics

are not available. They are also leave-on

are controlled under the ambit of the FCD

and concerned, but this is the bottom of the

products, meaning they are not rinsed off

Act and fall within the mandate of the

bottom. We need to manufacture, trade and

with water.

Directorate: Environmental Health within

“South Africans are inventive, hardworking

sell our incredible services and expertise,

These products are controlled under

the DOH. These products must comply

the ambit of the Foodstuffs, Cosmetics

with the requirements of the ‘compulsory

and Disinfectants Act, 1972 page 2 (Act

specification for chemical disinfectants

Regulatory status update

54 of 1972) (FCD Act) and fall within the

VC8054’ as set out by the NRCS, the Legal

The National Regulator for Compulsory

mandate of the Directorate: Environmental

Metrology Act, 2014 (Act 09 of 2014) as well

Specification (NRCS), South African Health

Health within the Department of Health

as all relevant SANS standards.

Products Regulatory Authority, South

(DOH). They must comply with the South

Africa Bureau of Standards (SABS) and

African National Standard (SANS) 490:2013

alcohol-based sanitisers and the standards

the Department of Trade and Industry

‘disinfectant alcohol-based handrub’, as

that will be applied are currently pending.

jointly issued a notification to assist

well as the Legal Metrology Act, 2014 (Act

These developments are unfolding with

manufacturers during the COVID-19 crisis

09 of 2014), in terms of packaging and

amendments to SANS 490:2013 which are

regarding applicable standards and

labelling and any compulsory standards

about to surface. •

conformity assessments. The notification

issued by the NRCS.

and get back on track,” he comments.

covers hand rubs, soaps and sanitisers (with or without alcohol).

42

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

Disinfectants and germicides used on inanimate surfaces in low-risk areas within

Clarification on who will register low-risk

AMA – www.aerosol.co.za

AEROSOLS

Sasol ramps up chemicals production for sanitiser and disinfectant applications In an effort to respond to the increased demand for alcohols used in sanitisers and disinfectants, Sasol has partnered with government to help combat the spread of COVID-19 in South Africa.

A

s a producer and bulk supplier of a variety of specialty chemicals, Sasol has developed a new and unique blend of alcohol-based chemicals

to be used in manufacturing of hand sanitisers. This diversification for the chemical manufacturer forms part of its efforts to assist in addressing the increase in market demand for these products.

Sasol is a producer and bulk supplier of high purity ethanol (HPE), isopropanol (IPA) and n-Propanol (NPA) alcohols, which are solvent chemicals used in the production of sanitisers along with other key chemicals. The company supplies these to distributors globally.

Contrary to some reports and according to Sasol, its pricing has remained stable for key chemical feedstock since the outbreak of COVID-19 in South Africa, the declaration of the state of disaster and subsequent nationwide lockdown.

While global demand and pricing for ethanol and isopropanol alcohol has increased … Sasol has prioritised local supply and prices for South African sales have remained stable “While global demand and pricing for ethanol and isopropanol alcohol has increased due to higher demand amid the COVID-19 pandemic, Sasol has prioritised local supply and prices for South African sales have remained stable,” comments Sasol president and CEO, Fleetwood Grobler.

He said the COVID-19 outbreak has caused a run on hand sanitisers, which has in turn created excessive demand for alcohols required to produce hand sanitisers and disinfectants.

Ensuring a reliable supply “Since March, Sasol has experienced an increase in demand of nearly 400% for alcohol-based products. During that time, we delivered close to eight million litres to the South African market and our laboratories, production, marketing and supply chain teams are working around the clock to ensure a reliable supply of critical alcohol-based products to customers,” Grobler adds.

To help address the increasing demand for sanitiser alcohols in South Africa, the company has come up with a special blend of alcohols, which will be sold to existing and new Sasol customers. Its aim is to expedite the production and availability of these critical products locally to help safeguard the health and wellbeing of South Africans.

Sasol is collaborating with the South African Department of Trade, Industry and Competition and is prioritising supply to government entities and other essential services working jointly to combat the spread of the virus in South Africa.•

Sasol – www.sasol.com

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

43

PACKAGING//Anti-counterfeiting & Security Features PACKAGING

What’s your brand protection strategy?

?

Globally, the trade in counterfeit pharmaceuticals is worth up to $200bn annually, with Africa among the regions most affected, according to industry estimates. The WHO says 42% of all fake medicines reported between 2013 and 2017 were from Africa, where about 100 000 deaths a year are linked to counterfeit medicines.

T

he billion-dollar counterfeit drug

marking characteristics and the properties

trade is thriving, with markets

contained in the final product, in a non-

flooded with fake and substandard

contact process. This guarantees the

medicines. Last year, a major sweep

hygiene and biological compatibility of

across 16 seaports along the coasts of

the marking produced. Coding can be

Africa saw the seizure of doses of illicit

carried out on a wide variety of materials,

medicines of an estimated worth of over

be it paper, cardboard, glass or plastic.

$40mn. The fake pharmaceuticals found

To label pharmaceutical vials,

included cough syrup, anti-parasitic and

TracePack offers the ARCA compact 4.0.

anti-malarial drugs, antibiotics and even

This neat machine with high productivity

contraceptives. Furthermore, frequent

(up to 300ppm) is industrial PC CFR21 part

bribes and kickbacks are accepted by

11-compliant. It can also be configured

government inspectors and officials to

with thermal transfer, thermal inkjet and

allow fake drugs to cross borders.

laser marker technologies for printing.

Compliance requires much more than merely reading a code on a label or product

Evolution of barcodes The brand protection and authentication products and solutions from TracePack

than merely reading a code on a label or

include holograms, UV and IR inks, DNA

product. For mass serialisation to support

inks and covert, invisible non-porous or

traceability, it’s essential to verify code

HACCP food-grade inks.

quality and validate that all of the encoded

The evolution of barcodes has mainly Manufacturers developing a

been in the direction of making them

data is accurate and formatted correctly.

Cognex In-Sight Track & Trace works

serialisation strategy and that make

easier to read. Sometimes codes are

with networked In-Sight vision systems

traceability and package compliance

made invisible, or covert – either for

to create a complete identification and

a priority not only achieve a significant

aesthetic, brand authentication, security,

data verification solution for serialised

competitive advantage but also

or supply chain tracking purposes. This

labels on pharmaceutical packaging. The

help in the fight against counterfeit

is usually accomplished through the use

better and more precise the track and

pharmaceuticals. TracePack can assist

of inks that fluoresce when exposed to

trace system, the faster problems can be

manufacturers by providing the following

ultraviolet (UV) or infrared light. These inks

identified and resolved. If profit margins

brand protection solutions:

are only visible to the human eye in the

are narrow, reduced manufacturing

• marking technologies for item-level

presence of a UV light.

and supply chain costs can often be the

identification • secure and patented 2D codes that cannot be recreated by counterfeiters

The Cognex MX-1502 UV vision-enabled mobile terminal leverages the latest

difference between profit and loss.

Regardless of the products being made,

mobile devices for industrial barcode-

packaging affects consumer perception

reading applications. Using a UV lighting

of quality and value. If the wrong item

which can track the product from the

module and lens filter, the MX-1502 UV

is in a package, or a defective product

manufacture to end user

illuminates invisible codes and quickly

ships, customer satisfaction and brand

• ringfencing of products supplied

decodes them, using high-performance

image are impacted, and in the case of

• authentication and security printing.

decoding algorithms.

pharmaceuticals, consumers’ lives are

Laser coding and labelling

A complete solution

machine vision products can help the

Lasers from TracePack can be used to

As manufacturers prepare for compliance

manufacturer ensure compliance,

mark packaging such as blister packs,

with new global traceability requirements

traceability and authentication of their

cases, medicine boxes and pallets, as

and transition from batch to item-level

packaging and products. •

well as directly onto pills or tablets. The

serialisation, it’s essential to keep in mind

laser ensures maximum control of both

that compliance requires much more

• customised track and trace platforms,

at stake. TracePack’s range of Cognex

44

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

PACKAGING//Anti-counterfeiting & Security Features PACKAGING

Blockchain and the pharma supply chain Blockchain technology can revolutionise many aspects of pharma manufacturing.

One of which is providing a secure, interoperable system for improving the visibility of pharmaceutical value chains.

B

lockchain technology was originally

added to the chain has a time stamp and

used to establish bitcoin, the first

a cryptographic key signature that cannot

viable digital currency, and is

be counterfeited. This provides complete

now being considered for many other

control over who can add to the chain,

industries. Blockchain’s appeal is based

and when, to safeguard privacy.

on its securely organised set of blocks that

Every action within the supply chain

are sequentially linked together. This is

becomes a block in the blockchain. In

what creates a digital ledger of data and

other words, sourcing raw materials or

makes the technology so revolutionary.

ingredients adds a block, transportation

Blockchain has three major benefits: 1. It’s completely secure. Once a link

of those materials and ingredients adds a block, and so it continues throughout the

is added to the chain, it can’t be

chain, creating integrity and a tamper-

changed, moved or deleted.

proof audit trail.

2. It is decentralised and distributed.

Another issue that’s nullified when it

Blockchain technology offers great potential for preventing diversion, counterfeiting and tampering because of the significant tracking capability throughout the supply chain. Therefore,

Participants can securely share data

comes to the blockchain, is integration.

serialisation is needed before blockchain

and execute transactions. No single

Because each party can read and

can be adopted. By printing barcodes

provider or authority can facilitate

exchange information without customised

and serialisation codes on every medicine

sharing or data execution.

software, each player in the chain can

that is manufactured, as well as the

exchange data freely and independently.

cartons and shippers used to transport

No one party or authority has control.

pharmaceuticals, product owners can

3. Blockchains can include smart contracts. These allow participants

trace their products as it moves through

to include instructions within the

the supply chain. This enables anyone

executed at a later date.

Coding and marking are essential

In a nutshell, the high level of security

Under increasing global regulatory

individual lots, shipments and packages

provided by blockchain technology

scrutiny, the pharmaceutical industry

– telling them where the products have

enables supply chain transparency.

is primed for advancing blockchain to

come from and where it’s destined for.

Everyone has access to the same secure

increase tracking and security throughout

It also allows for quick and streamlined

data – which can easily be traced,

its supply chain.

recalls if needed.

blockchain that can be triggered and

as soon as it’s created. This not only

Blockchain technology offers great

involved in the supply chain to identify

Pyrotec PackMark offers marking

significantly reduces the time needed

potential for preventing diversion,

and coding systems that can produce

to track problems and manage quality

counterfeiting and tampering because

consistent, accurate, high-quality and

and inventory, but also guarantees that

of the significant tracking capability of

perfectly legible codes at high speeds.

data hasn’t been counterfeited and adds

products throughout the supply chain.

These include coding and marking

significant automation capabilities.

This tracking ability also ensures recalls

equipment and consumables from

are fast and simple.

international industry leaders such

Fitting in with serialisation

However, it cannot be used in the

as Markem-Imaje, Altech Advanced

One of the main challenges with

pharmaceutical industry to label actual

Labelling Machines, Accraply Europe

serialising the supply chain is validating

drug products, but it can be implemented

(Harland) and Anser. •

the serialisation process. But this is where

using a two-dimensional barcoding

blockchain really shines. Every block

system to authenticate containers

Pyrotec – www.pyrotec.co.za

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

45

MALE GROOMING

Men’s grooming meets sustainability As we move further into the 21st century, themes of inclusivity and sustainability are emphasised more and more. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, discusses how to address these themes in the men’s grooming segment.

care launches targeting men have

S

other textures have made an appearance

increased globally by more than 70%,

on the men’s grooming scene. For

according to Mintel. Similarly, GlobalData,

example, Reuzel Beard Foam, produced

as an easy-to-use powder, which when

which surveyed European men for its 2019

in the Netherlands, is a leave-on beard

dispersed in water, forms a natural film that

Q3 global consumer survey, concluded

conditioner designed to tame, deodorise,

is comparable in performance to synthetic

that 20% of the men completely or

reduce itchiness and eliminate ‘beardruff’

film formers with the added benefit of

somewhat agree that they are willing to

and split ends, all while soothing and

being non-hygroscopic.

increase the number of products they

conditioning the beard and skin.

ince 2012, beauty and personal

Oils, waxes, serums, foams and many

of natural origin, according to the ISO 16128 standard.

Derived from corn, the fixative is supplied

When compared to PVP, the workhorse of the hair-styling industry, MaizeCare

use to improve their appearance. This increased to 30% in Poland, 29% in Italy

Naturally derived hair fixative

delivers comparable stiffness, superior

and 27% in Portugal.

Dow recently launched its 2020 TrendsLab

humidity resistance and, as a result, better

with a clear focus on inclusivity and

curl retention.

Men’s grooming routines have also become more sophisticated, with men

sustainability. Included in this campaign

experimenting with a wider variety of

is the newly launched bio-based hair

MaizeCare in action

grooming products and some even trying

fixative, MaizeCare style polymer, which

As part of the TrendsLab launch,

makeup. Beard care in particular has

stands out in applications for the men’s

MaizeCare style polymer was included

been on the rise and is often fused with

grooming category. This fixative delivers

in a two-in-one hair and beard balm

skin care, taking care of the skin beneath

soft to stiff styling performance together

formulation called Gentlehype (see

the beard and not just the beard itself.

with high humidity resistance and is 100%

Table 1). The formulation also features Ucon Fluid AP, which is a high spreadability

Table 1: Gentlehype hair and beard balm (CPF 4295)

emollient that enhances conditioning

Phase

Ingredients

INCI

% Wt

A

Water

Aqua

59.43

MaizeCare Style Polymer

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

3.00

with a combination of Aculyn 33A and

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine

0.20

Aculyn 88 rheology modifiers, which

Water

Aqua

Aculyn 88 Rheology Modifier

Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

0.50

Aculyn 33A Rheology Modifier

Acrylates Copolymer

1.50

Rheodol MS-165V

Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate

4.00

Cropure Sweet Almond Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet almond) Oil

1.00

Crodamol OSU

Diethylhexyl Succinate

5.00

polymer. Using a Dia-Stron to measure

Kalcol 220-80

Behenyl Alcohol

3.00

hair friction, it was found that Gentlehype

Emanon CH-40

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

0.50

Ucon Fluid AP

PPG-14 Butyl Ether

0.50

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

0.99

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine

0.10

Hydra Men E_18C4276

Perfume

0.28

B

C

D

20.00

This two-in-one styling cream gives a flexible, natural look and light to medium hold. It also provides conditioning and taming benefits as well as improved shine

46

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

and shine with a smooth after-feel. The rheology and texture are formed mostly

thicken the product, giving it good suspending capabilities and provide a rich, smooth and non-greasy feel.

When put to the test, the product exhibited superior curl retention and humidity resistance compared to a control formulation without MaizeCare style

provided a lower coefficient of friction than both the control and the benchmark, thanks to Ucon Fluid AP. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com

MALE GROOMING

Pro-pigmenting active stops natural hair-greying process Agreynist from Silab is an anti-free-radical and pro-pigmenting active ingredient of plant origin, enabling greying hair to return to its natural colour without the need to dye it.

microspectroscopy, Silab conducted a more detailed analysis of the course of greying and, in a novel way, has shown that there are changes in molecular markers related to biomechanical properties (conformation of proteins) and to the barrier function (organisation of lipids) in grey hair.

However, there is a strong consumer expectation

G

enzymatic bio-engineering enabled the

to avoid it with natural solutions. Faced with this

optimised extraction of molecules of interest. In

observation, Silab developed Agreynist (INCI: Butylene Glycol

Agreynist, Silab concentrated and stabilised the

& Water & Ononis spinosa Root Extract & Avena strigosa Seed

complementary efficacies of these two raw materials

Extract), a natural active ingredient capable of regulating the

obtained from a controlled supply chain.

reying of hair is an unavoidable phenomenon.

biological pathways leading to greying, in particular: • it restores the oxidative balance of hair, which is a necessary

The use of green solvents combined with

DID YOU KNOW? *Using Raman

With its protective, detoxifying and repigmenting effects, Agreynist offers a natural solution for grey hair care. Composed of biopeptides

factor in any anti-greying strategy, not only by reducing

and polyphenols, this patented active is available in South Africa from

the formation of free radicals, but also by activating cell

Meganede and supplied in aqueous solution. Its recommended use

detoxification induced by autophagy

level is 0.5% to 2.5% and it’s compliant with international cosmetics

• it favours repigmentation of the hair fibre by stimulating the synthesis of melanin with its cytoprotective effect • it re-establishes the structural quality of hair (based on the results of an original modelling study*).

regulations in Europe, the US, Japan and China. •

Meganede – www.meganede.com Silab – www.silab.fr

Visible reduction in greying The repigmenting effect of Agreynist was demonstrated on male and female Caucasian and Asian volunteers. Experts’ visual scoring of photos highlighted that after four months of daily application, Agreynist formulated at 2.5% in a lotion significantly decreases the stage of greying by 20% (P < 0.001) on Caucasian volunteers, corresponding to an average decrease of one stage of greying. This result was visible in 91% of volunteers.

A subjective evaluation confirmed this data and after six months of use, 91% of the volunteers reported that they have fewer grey hairs while 88% of them considered the hair product to be ‘anti-greying’.

The repigmenting effect of Agreynist on a Caucasian volunteer after four months of daily application

Two complementary plants In order to address the issue of hair greying in an effective way, Silab screened natural raw materials targeting the indispensable anti-free radical and pro-pigmenting effects.

This work led to the identification of two raw materials: 1. black oat seeds (anti-oxidant and detoxifying) 2. spiny restharrow roots (pro-pigmenting).

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS

Innovation and trends programme highlights The seminar committee of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coshcem) continues to host virtual events to keep its members connected during COVID-19. Coschem’s most recent virtual event was the innovation and trends programme, which took place over four days, from 19 to 22 May. The programme offered members an opportunity to address guests on innovation or new launches that would have been showcased at in-cosmetics Global 2020. The seminar committee thanked all the industry experts who shared exciting trends and information on ingredient innovation with guests who attended the seven online sessions.

INSTANT TIGHTENING, ECODESIGNED FLASH SKIN PERFECTOR

used to thicken hand sanitisers, providing

still used today in food and health drinks.

some form of moisturisation as it can hold up

In skin care it’s well known for its powerful

Zodwa Ndebele of Orkila presented a

to 1 000 times its own weight.

anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial

product produced from honey locust bean

The lota (chondrus crispus) variety of

benefits, reducing redness from blemishes

which gives an instant tightening effect when

carrageenan extracted from red seaweed is

and calming skin conditions like eczema

applied on skin. This eco-designed ingredient

used to produce a smooth, transparent and

and rosacea.

instantly decreases the depth, surface and

elastic gel, which has good compatibility

length of wrinkles. The results are visible

with amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. It

solvent-free extraction with supercritical

just three minutes after application with a

can also be used to create durable foaming

carbon dioxide. The next step is molecular

long-lasting effect of up to eight hours. This

jelly washes.

distillation, which improves the colour of

ingredient is 100% natural and sustainable.

To prove its efficacy, it was tested

Xanthan gum is another highly suspensive

Turmeric oil is distilled from the root using

the oil (from brown to light yellow). This

thickener available in three grades: food;

enriches the turmerones and reduces the

on three different areas of the face:

standard and clear. It has good compatibility

characteristic strong smell.

forehead lines; frown lines and crow’s feet

with surfactants yet it’s sensitive to cationic

Evonik Care Solutions evaluated the anti-

wrinkles. Results show that the product

surfactants. The product is stable at a wide

oxidative properties of turmerone. Using the

mechanically stretches and tightens the

pH range compared to carbomers and it

RT-PCR technique, in vitro tests results not

skin immediately, satisfying consumer

has good compatibility with alcohol and

only show its strong anti-oxidative properties,

demand for fast visible results.

most preservatives. A guar and xanthan gum

but also its ability to trigger cellular defence

blend produces marmalade textures with

mechanisms against oxidative stress. In an

CLEAN AND GREEN THICKENERS

excellent pick up. Carob and xanthan gum

eight-week in vivo study, using 0.5% with

Edna Bunga of The Care Co. gave a

give a versatile thickener and gelling agent,

cosmetic oils (C12-15 alkyl benzoate in

presentation on thickening hand sanitiser

which provides good stability. This mixture

particular), results show a marked reduction

and body wash products. COVID-19 has

produces non stringy textures with a pleasant

of wrinkles, significantly smoother skin and

caused an increase in demand for hand

fresh feel.

an improvement in skin radiance. Therefore,

sanitisers and hand cleansers, which tend

regular use of turmerone in facial care can

excipients such as thickeners will be

THE SKIN BENEFITS OF CURCUMA LONGA

appealing to consumers and formulators,

René Spada of Evonik introduced

as they can provide innovative textures and

attendees to the amazing skin benefits

FUTURE TRENDS

improve product stability.

of turmeric, the golden spice of India. The

While the world is experiencing a single

protective properties of turmerone, the active

trend, namely COVID-19, it’s interesting to look

its moisturising benefits, its high molecular

component of turmeric (Curcuma longa)

past the lockdown at what the future holds in

weight makes it an effective thickener due

has been well known for thousands of years.

terms of trends. Touching on trends from the

to its natural viscosifying nature. It has shown

It’s been used to treat throat infections,

beverage, clothing and cosmetics industries,

good compatibility with alcohol and can be

common colds and liver ailments, and is

Chantal O’ Brien de Villiers of Materia

to leave hands uncomfortably dry. Natural

Although sodium hyaluronate is known for

48

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

counteract oxidative stress in the skin and inhibit damage from regular tanning.

ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS

The programme offered members an opportunity to address guests on innovation or new launches that would have been showcased at in-cosmetics as dandruff and oily and itching scalp.

Symrise believes that the time has come for sustainability, selectivity and smartness – and addresses these points with ingredients that are 100% natural, nature-derived or nature inspired, and obtained using green A screenshot of the guests taken during one of the Zoom sessions

production processes. Always inspiring more, Symrise’s new ingredients for 2020 aim to target the source of scalp challenges

Medica explored future advances and

and sustainability. This has initiated a ‘blue’

like dandruff, itchiness, redness and an

exciting opportunities, discussing three key

trend that is here to stay.

oily scalp, through natural and innovative

trends: human technology; water essential

Microalgae is of particular interest in this

modes of action.

and the ‘V’ word.

trend. It’s rich in marine organisms that

the fine line between human and

applications. Du Preez highlighted these

PATENTED SKIN MIMETIC PHOSPHATIDYLGLYCEROL

technological devices. Consumers are

microalgae extracts in her session:

Kim MacCallum of Vantage Specialty

increasingly using smart technology to

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)

Chemicals shared a presentation on a skin

The human technology trend examines

provide a wealth of benefits for cosmetic

greater control their individual health and

Cylindrotheca Fusiformis Extract, which

mimetic phosphatidylglycerol for improved

beauty needs, from DNA-specific nutritional

actively stimulates collagen synthesis,

skin barrier and reduced skin sensitivity.

diets to smart clothing.

improves wrinkle depth and provides a

Water essential focuses on the precious

volume plumping effect.

Sensitive skin is a growing concern, rising in demand by 40% in Europe and showing

and shrinking commodity. Consumers are

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Pavlova

buying into brands that have limited their

Lutheri Extract, providing protection from

the last five years. Baby boomers are now

dependence on water in formulating and

indoor and urban pollution. This extract

experiencing menopause while the younger

manufacturing processes. Here O’ Brien de

improves cell proliferation targeted action

generation is suffering from diabetes, eczema

Villiers touched on dry masks, dry bath gels

against mitochondrial stress and provides

and stress-related skin conditions.

and shampoo bars.

superior skin tone.

The ‘V’ word delves into the connection

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)

90% growth in the Asia Pacific region in

When skin is damaged, it becomes more prone to irritants and water loss. The goal is

between veganism and biotechnology,

Nannochloropsis Oceanica Extract plays

to achieve a repaired, healthy skin through

whereby ‘lab-grown’ is the next level

a major role in repairing and boosting

the up regulation of certain genes, which will

of organic. These biotechnology

barrier function and is suitable for

promote protein expression and skin repair

advancements, from lab-grown leather

sensitive skin.

as well as reduce inflammation. The patented

to diamonds, are creating comfort for

• Triolein (and) Cylindrotheca Fusiformis

skin mimetic phosphatidylglycerol works on

consumers who may have supported the

Extract (and) Nannochloropsis Oceanica

all of these factors promoting restructuring

vegan trend in the past.

Extract is a cocktail of microalgae with

and repair. Through the in vitro studies

great benefits to improve skin hydration,

conducted on specific proteins in the dermis

BLUE COSMETICS

elasticity and skin and wrinkle density in

and epidermis, the active ingredient is shown

Charmaine du Preez of AECI Specialty

ageing skin.

to work in the dermis and epidermis. In vivo

Chemicals presented on microalgae and

• Pouteria Sapota seed Oil (and)

studies show its contribution to immediate

blue cosmetics being the new ‘green’. The

Nannochloropsis Oceanica Extract

and long-term hydration and its ability to

sea has always been an immense source of

promotes and supports hair growth.

assist in reducing erythema and wrinkles. A

precious materials, nutrients and inspiration

total of 100% of the panellists reported their

to humanity as a whole. Throughout centuries

HAIR CARE’S LATEST GREATEST

mankind has turned to the sea to obtain

Symrise’s latest launches specifically look at

products to sustain life and it evolution.

targeting scalp challenges, as the scalp is

Today’s ‘green’ cosmetic industry has

the bridge between skin and hair. Marcel

turned to the sea in search of novel

van Rooyen of Symrise’s presentation

ingredients, which provide elements of

explored at the specificity of the scalp

improved efficacy, natural origins, innovation

and the challenges consumers face, such

skin felt more hydrated and softer. •

For more information on Coschem’s upcoming virtual events, please send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za.

P C Review | JUNE 2020 |

49

Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN

Octo-crossword clues : Across

Down

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1. Evergreen tree

5. Mature

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50

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MGSA Projects.........................................25.........www.mgsaprojects.co.za Millchem .................................................27.........www.millchem.co.za

Cama Group............................................43.........www.camagroup.com CanbiGold.................................................5.........www.canbigold.com Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories.......... 19.........www.hersol.co.za IMCD SA .............................................. OFC.........www.imcdgroup.com ISW Shrink...............................................42.........www.iswshrink.co.za

Nautica Organic Trading .........................47.........www.nauticaorganics.com Rettenmaier South Africa.........................21.........www.jrspharma.com Sabinsa...................................................31.........www.sabinsacosmetics.com Sensient Technologies South Africa ........29.........www.sensient-cosmetics.com Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..................35.........www.vantagegrp.com

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the

Tel: 010 595 9690

cosmetics and toiletries industries.

Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing

plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

BOTANICHEM

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients

cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

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113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

www.botanichem.co.za

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

From one

brave team to anotherâ&#x20AC;Ś Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 the shutdown.

You are the unsung heroes!

Our #PurplePeople salute you!

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