Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2020

Page 32

INGREDIENTS

Preservatives from nature’s basket In the increasingly popular category of natural cosmetics, staying true to nature and helping formulators deliver a naturalbased product can be challenging when it comes to product preservation. To address this challenge, Sami-Sabinsa offers SabiLize-New – a truly natural preservative with proven efficacy.

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osmetic products can easily become contaminated by bacteria and fungi, resulting in a

spoiled product. Most cosmetics are made up of oil, water and other biodegradable ingredients, which present an optimum medium for the growth of microbes. This is why preservatives are vital to maintain the quality of a product and ensure its safe for use on skin. The global cosmetics market is valued at around $460bn and is expected to reach $675bn by the end of 2020, accounting for 6.4% growth per year. Therefore, the increasing market requires continuous monitoring and multidimensional control of toxic ingredients and microbial contamination1. Skin, the largest organ of the body, is

Figure 1: The antioxidant effect on free radicals

constantly exposed to the environment and bears the brunt of invasion of

oxidation phenomena and the formation

natural substances or which are extracts

pathogens, irritants and harsh chemicals2.

of free radicals8. In order to establish an

with antimicrobial properties.

It also harbours symbiotic microbes, which

effective inhibitory property, a preservative

provide protection from pathogenic or

should have broad-spectrum activity

preservatives, natural substances or extracts

harmful organisms3, 4.

and a longer shelf life than the cosmetic

have received a great deal of attention in

product itself 9.

last few years because of their improved

Cosmetic products can become

Compared to conventional synthetic

exposed to or are prone to microbial

The most widely accepted and reliable

contamination during manufacturing

method of preservation includes chemicals

(primary contamination) and/or

that are either synthesised from petroleum

Natural preservatives

during consumer use (secondary

derivatives or are sourced from vegetable

These are ingredients from nature which

contamination)5, 6. Therefore, it is very

extracts, as well as those produced using

are not chemically synthesized or artificially

important to select effective preservatives, which prevent microbial contamination without altering the skin microbiome7.

Table 1: Antimicrobial activity of active factions and SabiLize-New

Active fraction/Blend

Minimum inhibitory concentration11 Staphylococcus aureus

Two distinct groups of preservatives that are generally used to maintain

sustainability profile and safer nature10.

Escherichia coli

Candida albicans

Thyme oil

0.3

0.3

0.7

Monolaurin

0.12

NA

0.25

on microorganisms, and antioxidant

Magnolol

0.08

NA

0.08

preservatives capable of suppressing

SabiLize-New

0.07

0.4

0.07

the skin microbiome include, antimicrobial preservatives, which act

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| JUNE 2020 | P C Review


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