Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2020

Page 40

INGREDIENTS

Claims, compliance and consumer awareness tips Ingredients in the formulation of a product are arguably the most important aspect of any consumer product, as it’s the formulation that produces the desired effect. Cosmetic products are no exception to this, as they are used to deliver an effect, be it ‘cleansing, perfuming, correcting body odours, conditioning, beautifying, protecting, or promoting attractiveness’. By Yashmay Gordhon, CTFA

T

he aesthetic appeal of packaging,

This harmonised listing of ingredients

together with product claims, and

across different countries allows

the product descriptor itself are often

consumers to identify and recognise

foremost to pique a consumer’s interest in

ingredient names on cosmetics sold

a product. However, the formulation that

worldwide. This system of naming

will provide the desired effect is no longer

ingredients also eliminates confusion that

overlooked. Consumers are increasingly

may arise as a result of listing ingredient

aware of ingredients considered ‘good’,

trade names or common names, which

‘clean’ or ‘safe’, and those that are

can differ from country to country.

considered ‘unhealthy’ or ‘unsafe’ –

Understanding cosmetic ingredients has become increasingly important in terms of their description, limits for use and use restrictions

Health’s (DOH) Government Notice R1469

social media. Understanding cosmetic

draft Regulations relating to Labelling,

ingredients has become increasingly

Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics,

important in terms of their description, limits

22 December 2017, the requirement

for use and use restrictions and the actual

for a cosmetic ingredient listing is that

meaning of ingredient claims made on

the labelling of a product must include

packaging. Like any product, consumers

‘the list of ingredients according to INCI

develop an interest in certain trends, which

nomenclature’. Should the packaging

often dictates the types of ingredients

be too small, the ingredient listing must

consumers actively seek or prefer.

appear ‘on an attached leaflet, label, inlay, tape, tag or card’ or ‘on a notice in

Naming and labelling ingredients

the cosmetic product is exposed for sale’.

extracts, seeds, juices and powders to

The restrictions outlined

preservatives, colourants, diluents and

Similar to pharmaceuticals, for safety

solvents etc. Differing from pharmaceutical

reasons, certain ingredients can be

products, cosmetics do not contain

used with specified limits and/or under

‘active ingredients’, as this would denote

certain restrictions only. The Annexes

a medicinal function, which a cosmetic

of Government Notice R 1469 draft

product does not provide.

Regulations Relating to Labelling,

The cosmetic ingredient listing also

Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics,

differs from other consumer products, in

22 December 2017, provides the legislative

that it must adhere to a specific system

requirements for such ingredients. In some

International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients or INCI. | JUNE 2020 | P C Review

close proximity to the container in which

Cosmetic ingredients range from

of naming ingredients, known as the

40

As outlined by the Department of

often informed by the hype created by

cases, the use of restricted ingredients must be accompanied by a warning statement on the label to ensure that


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