Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review 2024

12 Women’s Health

Ingredients tailored to the new face of menopause

Evonik celebrates the beauty of ageing

Industry Talk

A closer look at the Tammy Taylor trade mark dispute

Euromonitor insights into consumer trends in this category

18 Active & Functional Ingredients

CJP’s timeless ingredients for every generation

Harnessing the science of exercise for skin health

24 Male Grooming

Croda explores the evolution of men’s skincare

Breaking stereotypes in men’s care

BioMedical Emporium discusses dermatological dynamics in beard care

Grooming for confidence and mental well-being

Pharma Focus/ Tableting & Encapsulation

Highlights from Coschem’s hair manageability seminar

Plastics SA attends INC meeting in Canada

SAAFFI celebrates 2023 course graduates

Excipients from IMCD for patient-friendly dosage forms

Colorcon helps you create products consumers will love

Explore IFF’s portfolio of controlled release products

Wellness-integrated grooming is here

# GRMW (get ready with me), the Instagram and TikTok trend believed to be responsible for reshaping the male grooming category in 2024, is successfully achieving what the cosmetics industry struggled to achieve for years – encouraging men to embrace and enjoy skincare.

Historically it’s been a challenge for brands to convince men to spend their hard-earned cash on more than soap and moisturiser. But this year, the category is changing with more and more men embracing multi-step grooming routines as part of a holistic approach to selfcare. This is a key theme in the June edition of P&C Review as the significance of grooming for men cannot be underestimated. It plays a pivotal role in their journey to self-confidence, offering a pathway to a positive self-image and improved mental health. Turn to page 24 to read more about the evolution of male grooming and the new and established cosmetic ingredients on the market best suited to meeting men’s skincare and hair care needs.

This month, we also explore women’s health and the rise of menopausal beauty. The past decade has seen a push among female consumers to better understand how

hormonal changes during life stages can impact the quality of their skin and hair. With this knowledge, brands and manufacturers can identify underserved needs to innovate in this space. Turn to page 12 to learn more.

If you’re looking for inspiration for new product development in skincare, in our feature on actives and functional ingredients, we highlight Baolift, the new active ingredient from Vytrus Biotech, which activates skin’s exercise-like molecular mechanisms to improve muscle tone for a visibly lifted and rejuvenated complexion. Learn more about this on page 20

In today's competitive pharma and nutraceutical market, designing products that resonate with consumers is more important than ever. Our pharma focus on page 32 highlights several excipients best suited for creating patient-friendly dosage forms.

Enjoy the read!

The team

EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti

COVER: images/ Shutterstock.com

CONTRIBUTORS: Nishaat Slamdien, John Foster, Ò Expósito, M Buchholz, A Guirado, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz, M Gibert

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EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

L'Oréal dominates the beauty scene, reports Brand Finance

With its brand value improving 11% to reach a staggering $13.4 billion, L'Oréal remains the world’s most valuable cosmetics brand. This is according to new data from Brand Finance. The iconic French brand continues to outshine competitors, boasting a brand value approximately 80% higher than its closest rival.

L'Oréal's brand value is intricately tied to its strategic focus on premiumisation and innovation within the beauty industry. The brand’s approach to making highend products more accessible in a market driven by supply has driven strong sales growth, indicating its ability to align product offerings with consumer demand for luxury at an attainable price point.

"Garnier emerges as the world’s fastest-growing cosmetics brand, with its brand value up 15% to $4.7 billion"

L'Oréal also earns the highest sustainability perceptions value (SPV) in the cosmetics ranking, at $1 billion. The brand’s ongoing commitment to sustainability is anchored in its ‘L'Oréal for the Future’ campaign, launched in 2020, dedicated to tackling social and environmental challenges around the world. Notably, in 2023, the brand introduced a new €15 million Climate Emergency Fund, aimed at helping vulnerable communities build resilience against climate changedriven disasters. L'Oréal also advanced its Inclusive Sourcing programme to help vulnerable people find employment, benefiting more than 93 000 individuals by the end of 2023. Additionally, the brand expanded its environmental efforts by backing three pioneering projects through its Fund for Nature Regeneration, focused on innovative solutions for carbon capture, reforestation, and ecosystem restoration.

In a testament to its enduring appeal and innovative strategy, Gillette trails as the second most valuable cosmetics brand, witnessing a brand value increase of 13% to $7.4 billion. Despite lower consumer demand, the brand’s strategic pricing adjustments have driven

growth in sales revenue – showing that a strong brand can return significant value through higher prices and, according to Brand Finance data, earn improved scores for perceived price premium at the same time. Gillette also entered a long-term partnership with the New York Yankees, which is likely to improve even further its familiarity amongst potential customers.

Natura secures its place as the world's strongest cosmetics brand, despite a slight 2% dip in brand value to $2 billion. This minor decrease is overshadowed by Natura’s unparalleled customer loyalty and its high scores in familiarity, recommendation and consideration. The brand’s reputation remains an exceptionally strong testament to its dedicated customer base.

Part of the L'Oréal family, Garnier emerges as the world’s fastest-growing cosmetics brand, with its brand value up 15% to $4.7 billion. As such, it narrowly edges out Axe/Lynx/Ego, which also enjoyed a 14% boost to $1.9 billion. Garnier's success is a highlight within L'Oréal's Consumer Products Division, which celebrated strong growth. Garnier's Vitamin C Brightening Serum has become a beacon of success in skincare, contributing to the division’s stellar performance.

Axe/Lynx/Ego’s brand value increase is propelled by significant sales increases while operating under different names in different jurisdictions while also maintaining high scores in familiarity globally.

The brand’s double-digit growth, fuelled by the rollout of its fine fragrance range, underscores the effectiveness of Unilever's increased investment in digital marketing, media, and eCommerce, coupled with a strategic price hike.

Annie Brown, Brand Finance director, said: “As the cosmetics industry evolves, these brands exemplify the dynamic shifts and strategic innovations driving growth and consumer engagement in the sector. The relentless pursuit of excellence by these leaders not only shapes the contours of the global beauty landscape but also sets new benchmarks for success and sustainability in the industry.”

What’s on in 2024

July

Coschem CT Supplier Day

10 July

Carst & Walker, Pinelands, Cape Town www.coschem.co.za

Cosmoprof North America

11 to 13 July

Las Vegas, USA cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

in-cosmetics Korea

24 to 26 July

Seoul, South Korea www.in-cosmetics.com/korea

August

Coschem KZN

Networking Event

7 August

Antique Cafe, Churchill House, Windermere bridget@coschem.co.za

Coschem Day

14 August

Create, Taroko, JHB bridget@coschem.co.za

September

Propak West Africa

10 to 12 September

Lagos, Nigeria www.propakwestafrica.com

Coschem Scientific Conference

11 to 12 September

Honeydew, Gauteng www.coschem.co.za

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A nail biting dispute

Who owns the Tammy Taylor trade mark? The acrylic claws are out again with the revival of the dispute between the American founder of the nail brand, Tammy Taylor Nails and Melany and Peet Viljoen, writes Nishaat Slamdien and John Foster of Spoor & Fisher.

Tammy Taylor, the CEO of the American nail brand Tammy Taylor Nails, posted a video to her social media accounts stating that she filed a lawsuit against Melany and Peet Viljoen for $100 million (around R1.9 billion) due to, amongst other things, the alleged unlawful use of the Tammy Taylor trade mark by the Viljoens.

In the video, she alleged that “from 2017 to 2022 [Tammy Taylor, Inc] granted the Viljoens the limited right to sell Tammy Taylor nail products in Australia and Africa” but that this “was terminated in 2022” and “from 2018 to 2022, [Tammy Taylor, Inc] granted the Viljoens the limited right to develop Tammy Taylor salons in Africa”, but that this “was terminated in 2021”.

In a three-part video series posted to her TikTok account, Melany Viljoen clipped Tammy’s talons short by claiming that she and Peet “own the legitimate registration and ownership of the Tammy Taylor name in South Africa”.

Peet polished off Melany’s video series by echoing her claim of owning the Tammy Taylor trade mark in South Africa in a video posted to his Instagram account.

LOCAL VS INTERNATIONAL IP LAW

Does South African IP law protect international trade marks like the Tammy Taylor one? Trade marks are territorial in nature and trade mark rights are limited to the country where they have been used and/or registered. The exception, however, is if a trade mark is found to be well-known.

International trade marks that are not used or registered in South Africa will only be protected if they qualify as a ‘well-known’ trade mark under the Trade Marks Act. This act allows owners of well-known trade marks to prevent the use and registration of trade marks in South Africa that are identical to or

an imitation or translation of the well-known mark and are sought to be used or registered in relation to goods or services for which the mark is well-known and where the use is likely to cause confusion or deception.

If the well-known trade mark is also registered in South Africa, then the owner of that mark can prevent the use of that mark, or an identical or similar mark, if the use would be likely to take unfair advantage of, or be detrimental to, the distinctive character or the repute of the well-known mark, even when there is no likelihood of confusion or deception.

Is the Tammy Taylor trade mark registered in South Africa? It appears so. A search of the Trade Marks Register revealed the trade mark application and registrations incorporating the words ‘Tammy Taylor’ in the name of Tammy Taylor. As shown in table 1, Tammy Taylor, Inc (Tammy Taylor US) is the current owner of an application for registration and registrations for the Tammy Taylor trade mark in South Africa.

It seems that in 2016, Justsmart Mobile (Pty) Ltd (Justsmart), of which Melany Viljoen is the sole director, sought to register the Tammy

" Respecting the trade mark rights of others is not just a legal obligation, it is also a strategic imperative"

Taylor South Africa logo, but this application was subsequently assigned to Tammy Taylor US.

Justsmart also applied to register the Tammy Taylor Nails South Africa logo in 2016, but this

Trade mark Status

Proprietor

TAMMY TAYLOR Registered

Tammy Taylor, Inc

Tammy Taylor, Inc

Tammy Taylor, Inc

Table 1

WHAT IS TRADE MARK ASSIGNMENT?

The ownership of a registered trade mark or a pending application thereof can be transferred from one person to another. The formal act of transfer of ownership is known as an ‘assignment’.

Peet, in a video posted to his Instagram account, referred to the ‘documents’ depicted in figure 1 and claimed that the “transfer to the USA was denied”.

The Trade Mark Register revealed that the Tammy Taylor South Africa logo registration and application were successfully assigned to Tammy Taylor US and were not ‘denied’.

However, the application for registration of the Tammy Taylor Nails South Africa logo was provisionally refused by the Registrar of Trade Marks. The applicant (Tammy Taylor US) has an opportunity to make representations to the Registrar and provide reasons as to why the trade mark application should be accepted and if the Registrar is satisfied, it may thereafter proceed to registration.

TRADE MARK LICENSING

A trade mark owner may grant another person a licence to use its trade mark. A licensee does not have an ownership claim to the licensor’s trade marks and will only be permitted to use the licensor’s trade marks on the terms and conditions prescribed by the licensor.

The Trade Marks Act provides that a trade mark application cannot be filed by someone that does not have a good faith claim to ownership of the trade mark. The proprietor of a trade mark is the person who has appropriated the mark for use in relation to goods or services as a trade mark in that territory. The word ‘appropriate’ is used in the sense of ‘originate’, ‘acquire’ and ‘adopt’. The proprietor of a mark is therefore considered to be the person who originated, acquired or adopted the mark for use with the goods or services in the territory in question.

Justsmart, applied to register the Tammy Taylor South Africa logos in its own name. As the Tammy Taylor word mark was originally used under licence from Tammy Taylor US, it is questionable whether Justsmart had a good faith claim to ownership of the logos. As such, Justsmart might have been compelled to assign the applications for these logos to Tammy Taylor US.

WHO WILL BREAK A NAIL?

From an IP perspective, the owner of a registered trade mark can rely on the Trade Marks Act to prevent the unauthorised use of a trade mark if it is likely to cause deception or confusion.

What this means for the Viljoens, is that Tammy Taylor may be able to rely on its Tammy Taylor trade mark registrations to prevent the Viljoens from using the Tammy Taylor trade mark in South Africa and would be able to:

• Obtain an interdict to stop the use of the infringing trade mark.

• Order the removal of the infringing trade mark from all goods and advertising material and, where the infringing mark is inseparable from the material, ordering that all such material is delivered up to Tammy Taylor US.

• Claim damages for actual financial loss suffered.

• In lieu of damages, claim a reasonable royalty that would have been payable by a licensee for use of the trade mark.

BRAND EQUITY

Why can’t Justsmart simply switch to another trade mark?

Building equity in a brand takes time and effort. If you do it right, the reputation of your trade mark will attract trade. Switching to another trade mark may create confusion among consumers, resulting in decreased sales, customer dissatisfaction and reputational damage.

Furthermore, rebranding is not cheap. It involves the development and distribution of new marketing materials, packaging, signage, and promotional campaigns. These costs can be substantial, particularly for small businesses with limited resources.

One thing’s for sure: nailcare is a big and crowded market and the value of a trade mark, to identify and distinguish the offerings of a business, cannot be overstated. Given the consequences of rebranding, respecting the trade mark rights of others is not just a legal obligation, it is also a strategic imperative. •

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Spoor & Fisher – www.spoor.com

Nishaat Slamdien is an associate and John Foster a partner of Spoor & Fisher, Africa’s largest specialised intellectual property law firm.

The new face of menopause

A taboo subject for too long, menopause is finally getting the makeover it needs. The personal care industry has witnessed a shift in women’s health to focus on holistic well-being, mindfulness and celebrating true individuality – no matter the race, gender, identity, or age of women.

To fully understand the effects menopause on women, DSM conducted two extensive studies. The Skincare Consumer Survey gave power to the voices of 600 women based in the USA, China, and France and transformed the data collected from their input into solutions that address their needs.

The study revealed that 60% of women notice changes in their skin with these five concerns being the most prevalent:

• dryness and itchiness

• age spots and uneven skin tone

• lines, wrinkles and sagging

• sensitivity and redness

• hot flushes.

DSM did not stop at skin, and investigated the impact of menopause on hair, surveying 115 consumers in Australia, the USA and the UK. Three main concerns came to light:

• dry and itchy scalp

• hair loss

• hair thinning.

These symptoms are largely caused by the hormonal fluctuations that take place during menopause.

The drop in estrogen and progesterone levels during this life stage, in addition to high cortisol levels, leads to visible changes in the body and the mind.

SOLUTION TO NAVIGATE CHANGES

Change is the only constant when it comes to menopause, making it difficult to know

exactly what the skin and hair need.

DSM is innovating in this space, to help beauty brands meet consumers’ needs.

The ingredients producer, represented in South Africa by Chempure, has designed a lineup of menopause beauty care products that are formulated with a powerful

"Change is the only constant when it comes to menopause, making it difficult to know exactly what the skin and hair need"

combination of high-performance DSM ingredients. The formulations are developed specifically for the requirements of skin and scalp under the influence of hormonal changes.

any life stage without diminishing its natural journey. These include:

• BEL-EVEN®, an innovative antistress, anti-pollution and antiwrinkle bioactive that selectively inhibits 11β -HSD1 to stop the conversion of cortisone into cortisol released as a result of stress.

The bioactive helps the skin regain elasticity, density, and barrier functionality while visibly reducing the signs of stress-induced skin ageing.

• Niacinamide PC, DSM’s grade of vitamin B3, is exceptionally well tolerated by the skin because of its low levels of nicotinic acid (reduced to a max of 100ppm). This ingredient has skin-restoring properties that work wonders on menopausal skin, improving collagen synthesis and helping to even out the skin tone.

• SYN-UP® is a multi-functional low-molecular-weight peptide that rejuvenates skin and unlocks

TILAMAR® PDO used in combination with NØØVISTA™ is a high-quality microbiome-friendly, multifunctional natural ingredient complex designed to reduce formulation intricacies by acting as a preservative booster, skin humectant, sensory enhancer,

HYA-ACT™ M is a medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid that stays on the surface of the skin for a dewy look. It provides immediate hydration and strengthens the skin barrier.

HYA-ACT™ S is a small molecular

penetrates the superficial layer of the epidermis to lock in moisture for an even greater hydration boost. It

• HYA-ACT™ XS is a very small molecular weight hyaluronic acid that retains moisture from the inside and calms down reddened skin.

• Vitamin B12 Cryst combats dryness,

itchiness, and redness, which are symptoms of menopausal skin, by significantly reducing and regulating inflammasome and inflammatory cytokines.

• SYN®-AKE is DSM’s potent and patented tripeptide inspired by nature.

• PEPHA®-AGE CB is an extract of the freshwater microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens. This natureinspired ingredient harnesses the many benefits of lab-grown algae for flawless skin.

• ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB is a fully biodegradable alpine flower extract. In DSM’s latest ex vivo study, the extract was proven to prolong the anagen growing phase of hair up to 1.8 times and increase hair follicle keratinocyte proliferation by up to 50%.

BeauPlex® VH is a selected blend of vitamins (B3, B5, B6, C, and E), which helps to improve hair density and thickness. This basket of ingredients and more information on the menopause beauty care formulations are available in South Africa from Chempure.•

Chempure – chempure.co.za

DSM – www.dsm.com/personal-care

Celebrate the beauty of ageing

The journey through menopause is a natural biological process that deserves attention and care. With innovative ingredients like SKINMIMICS PRO MB, SPHINOX Lift, TEGO enlight and ROVISOME Biotin, Evonik provides holistic solutions that cater to the evolving needs of menopausal beauty.

The beauty industry is witnessing a paradigm shift, with the menopausal market projected to reach a staggering $24.4 billion by 2030. This growth is fueled by a generation of women who are confidently breaking taboos and embracing their age with grace.

As we celebrate this newfound openness, it is crucial to address the unique skincare needs that arise during menopause, which include dryness, sagging skin, dullness, age spots, and thinning hair.

HYDRATION AND BARRIER REPAIR

One of the most common concerns during menopause is the increased dryness of the skin. To combat this, SKINMIMICS® PRO MB (INCI: Ceramide EOP; Ceramide NP; Ceramide NS; Ceramide AP; Cholesterol; Behenic Acid; Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate; Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate; Glycerin; Cetearyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate; Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate; Triethylcitrate; Lactic Acid; Aqua/Water) offers a revolutionary solution.

This powerful combination of seven unique ceramides, designed specifically for ageing skin, supports healthy ageing by increasing collagen and elastin. It not only improves skin elasticity and reduces wrinkle depth but also enhances moisturisation by delivering ceramides into the stratum corneum and activating skin’s natural water management system.

With a use level of 1.0% to 5.0%, SKINMIMICS® PRO MB contributes to a visibly stronger skin barrier and increased moisture in the skin, ensuring that menopausal skin remains hydrated and resilient.

SAGGING SKIN

As the skin matures, it may lose firmness, leading to sagging. SPHINOX® Lift (Ceramide NP) addresses this concern head-on with its unique bioactive short-chain ceramide. This multilayer skin activator densifies and lifts the skin, offering a firming effect that tightens the skin and visibly lifts facial contours.

Table 1: Ageless

Method:

Heat phase A and phase B separately to 70°C to 75°C.

Add phase B to phase A while stirring and homogenise (12 000 rpm) for 30 to 45 seconds.

Cool with gentle stirring.

Add phase C at 40°C and homogenise again for a short time.

Add components from phase D stepwise. Adjust the pH.

Stability: Proven.

Micro: Challenge test passed.

pH: 5.0 to 5.5.

Viscosity: 26000 to 35000 mPas (Brookfield sp 05, 3 rpm).

Glow Revitaliser

Figure 1: Menopause through the years: Three stages and corresponding hormone levels (source: Evonik)

Figure 2: Study with 60 women aged 50 to 70 years of age. A placebo as well as a cream with 0.2% SPHINOX® Lift were applied twice a day for 12 weeks to the face. Figure 2 shows expert grading digital photographs of two participants, before application and 12 weeks after application of the active

With a use level of just 0.02% to 0.2%, SPHINOX® Lift has been shown to significantly reduce wrinkle depth and improve skin firmness, providing a more youthful and contoured appearance.

DULL

SKIN AND AGE SPOTS

Menopause can also lead to dull skin and the appearance of age spots. TEGO® enlight (INCI:

Did you know?

Evonik’s expertise in ceramides is unmatched, particularly with its skinidentical ceramides, which sets the supplier apart in the realm of skin care science.1

Morus Alba Fruit Extract; Sodium Phytate; Water; Glycerin; Alcohol), derived from rice bran and white mulberry, offers a natural solution for skin brightening and age spot correction.

Sodium phytate stimulates exfoliation and reduces melanin activity, while Morus alba fruit extract acts as an antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase activity. At a use level of 2%, TEGO® enlight provides a dual approach to brighten the skin and reduce the visibility of age spots, resulting in a more even and radiant complexion.

THINNING HAIR

Thinning hair is another concern that can affect a woman’s self-esteem during menopause.

ROVISOME® Biotin (INCI: Aqua; Alcohol; Panthenol; Lecithin; Tocopheryl Acetate; Caffeine; Biotin; Tocopherol), offers a targeted approach to boost hair density and improve growth conditions. This delivery system is

designed to enhance the transport of active ingredients into the scalp and hair shafts.

With a combination of biotin, caffeine and D-panthenol, among other ingredients, ROVISOME® Biotin helps to normalise the hair growth cycle and provides visible and perceptible results. At a recommended use level of 2% to 10%, the delivery system contributes to improved hair density and a healthier scalp.

INGREDIENTS TO CELEBRATE AGEING

The ingredients SKINMIMICS® PRO MB, SPHINOX® Lift, TEGO® enlight and ROVISOME® Biotin not only address specific concerns but also celebrate the beauty of ageing.

For more information on how these ingredients can transform a skincare routine, contact Evonik and join the movement towards a more inclusive and supportive approach to menopausal beauty. •

REFERENCE:

1. Bouwstra et. al. (Dep. Of Dermatology, Leiden University-NL)

Evonik Personal Care –jacques.strydom@evonik.com

The intersection of skincare, hormones and holistic health

Women are prioritising their health and skincare needs, by embracing holistic, long-term solutions to take charge of their wellbeing, according to research conducted by Euromonitor International. By Abby Vorster

The past decade has seen a push among female consumers to better understand how hormonal changes during life stages can impact the quality of one’s skin and hair.

Euromonitor data shows that from 2019 to 2023, the percentage of female respondents seeking skincare suitable to hormonal fluctuations increased among all age groups, with females in the 30 to 44 age group seeking this feature most prominently than other age groups. The demand is expected given the age group’s entrance into pre-/post-natal life stages and peri-menopause.

The female population will continue to age, with women over the age of 30 expected to account for almost three-fifths of the population by 2040, up from a little over half in 2020. This creates opportunities for beauty brands to align existing routines and active ingredients around concepts like menstrual and menopausal care.

MEDICALISATION OF BEAUTY

Consumer interest in how hormones impact skin and hair is accompanied by the medicalisation of beauty, which gives prominence to solution-oriented beauty products developed by or in conjunction with medical professionals, and with clinical testing and science-backed claims.

The medicalisation of beauty also aligns with the rise of dermocosmetics–skin care or hair/scalp care products that treat or support several skin conditions (e.g. skin pathologies, post-surgery skin, and post-injury skin) or several hair/ scalp conditions, which are treatable by a dermatologist, pharmacist, or health care professional, and of which dermatologist expertise input is the central pillar.

"To win consumers, brands should differentiate menopause-positioned skincare from anti-ageing categories through evidence-based data"

ccording to Euromonitor, consumers are leaning more on dermocosmetics as a cost-effective solution that targets their skincare needs without having to have a prescription from a dermotologist, due to proven efficacy claims, underscoring the importance of consumer education and science-backed claims. To win consumers, brands should differentiate menopausepositioned skincare from anti-ageing categories through evidence-based data. Brands should highlight the demand for research on menopause care and push ingredient exploration for estrogen balance.

LEAN ON THE INGREDIENTS

In beauty and personal care, women’s health is witnessing greater demand to understand how hormonal imbalances correlate with changing skin and hair needs. This appetite is influenced by ingredient-led beauty, in which ingredient benefits are closely tied to consumer motivations for usage.

In response, Euromonitor says the beauty and personal care industry should lead with scientifically proven claims that address consumer need for different life stages, focusing on differentiators that make life stage-centric products more effective.

The main challenge for beauty and personal care players is identifying underserved female-centric solutions and mapping entry in this space. Regardless of the entry point, brands will need to invest in research and consumer education of the functional benefits of catering to their changing skin and hair care needs. Brands should also provide a product roadmap to other parts of their portfolios when skin and hair care needs change. •

Euromonitor International –www.euromonitor.com

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Timeless ingredients for every generation

From young to old, consumers have an almost insatiable appetite for skincare products. To help brand owners innovate in this space, CJP Chemicals offers a diverse range of active and functional ingredients.

Sagacious™ is a biomimetic antisagging ingredient developed by Seppic to address the needs of mature skin.

As we age, our skin undergoes natural changes. Collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging. A growing number of women in the 50+ age range are highly concerned about skin ageing in particular sagging skin. Chronological ageing is in part responsible for sagging skin but also gravity as it pulls the skin downward.

At the international space station, plants maintain their integrity in zero gravity by synthesising specific molecules from the glycolipids family. Inspired by this behaviour, using an eco-designed and patented process known as Coeur d’algue, Seppic has succeeded in extracting this family of molecules from Himanthalia elongata seaweed. Confirming its expertise in developing anti-ageing actives, Seppic completes its offering for mature skin with this new biomimetic anti-sagging ingredient.

INSPIRED BY NATURE

Sagacious™ acts on all layers of the skin. Its mechanism of actions results in skin becoming significantly firmer with less visible signs of facial sagging.

Test results show that Sagacious™ improves skin firmness eight times more than a placebo while helping to reduce the visibility of nasogenian folds (efficacy clinically proven after 28 days).

"Sagacious™ improves skin firmness eight times more than a placebo"

The active ingredient has also been evaluated in vitro, demonstrating its ability to restore the mechanical properties of fibroblasts close to the value of a fibroblast that is 28 years younger. This is thanks to the stimulation of key molecules at the various level of the different layers of the skin, such as:

• At the dermo-epidermal junction for a better cohesion between the epidermis and dermis

• In the dermis for a better biomechanical and tensile properties of fibroblasts

• At the dermo-hypodermal junction for a better cohesion between dermis and hypodermis.

Sagacious™ encompasses a new approach proposed by Seppic for an effective universal antiageing strategy. Compliant with Chinese regulations, the active ingredient is also COSMOS and Natrue approved with a 100% naturalness rate according to ISO 16128.

NATURAL VEGETABLE SQUALANE

A second factor affecting ageing skin is hydration. As we age, our skin tends to lose moisture, making hydration essential for maintaining healthy and youthful looking skin.

Phytosqualan is a high performing natural emollient produced by Sophim. This supplier is a world leader in the extraction of squalene from olive oil and in the production of natural squalane. Squalene is extracted from food industry co-products and hydrogenated to produce a stable derivative known as squalane. Squalane is a molecule that mimics the ability of the human epidermis to repair and moisturise itself through sebum activity. Squalane is used as an active emollient in several cosmetic applications. It is COSMOS-approved, solvent-free and GMO-free.

Contact CJP Chemicals for more information on these active and functional ingredients. •

THE BENEFITS OF SQUALANE

• Restores the lipidic barrier

Prevents trans epidermal water loss

Restores skin’s suppleness and elasticity

• Strong moisturising power

• Skin protection

• Great affinity with the skin

Carrier of active ingredients

Penetrates the skin deeply.

DISCOVER

As we age, our skin undergoes natural changes. Collagen production decreases and skin loses moisture, leading to wrinkles and sagging. A growing number of women in the 50+ age range are highly concerned about the effects of ageing on their skin.

Discover our cutting-edge antiaging solutions! Our products harness the power of nature to rejuvenate and revitalize your skin. From emollients to actives, we’ve got you covered. Say goodbye to sagging skin and hello to radiant, youthful skin.

• Biomimetic ingredients

• Anti-sagging

• Restoration

• Elasticity

• Protection

• Moisturization

How fit is your skin?

Vytrus Biotech is using plant stem cell biotechnology to revitalise and lift the skin. To develop the innovative Fit-Skin technology, the ingredients producer harnessed the molecular benefits of exercise for skin health.

By Ò Expósito, M Buchholz, A Guirado, A Gallego, M Mas, P

Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz and M Gibert

Physical activity sculpts the body, boosts health and enhances well-being as we age. But what if the facial skin could benefit from a similar workout in the form of a cosmetic product? Recent research has highlighted the potential for targeted exercises to rejuvenate facial muscles, impacting skin’s internal structure and biological functions, from collagen production to enhancing skin firmness and density.1 These findings have fueled interest in new methods and technologies for facial toning.

Vytrus Biotech delved into this innovative territory to develop a unique biological synergy that aims to fortify and rejuvenate facial skin by replicating the natural benefits of physical exercise to enhance appearance and vitality without traditional exercise routines. Utilising sustainable plant biotechnology, it introduced Baolift™, which activates the skin’s exercise-like molecular mechanisms, improving muscle tone for a visibly lifted and rejuvenated complexion.

EXERQUINES – THE FIT-SKIN SECRET

By mimicking a physical exercise regimen at the cellular level, Vytrus Biotech has developed a pioneering approach to skincare. This approach is based on an understanding of the coordinated response to exercise involving the exercise secretome: the workout factor. The factor is characterised as the key axis to harness the biochemistry of exercise and help simultaneously stimulate epidermal and muscular exercise factors, promoting improved communication through the exerkines. These biomolecules are essential for coordinating the communication and cooperation of the different parts of the body (musculoskeletal, epithelial, connective and nerve tissues) during exercise.

Vytrus Biotech has identified several essential exerkines for skin rejuvenation. Mitochondria-derived peptides (MDPs) are small, unique molecules encoded by mitochondrial DNA released during physical activity. These peptides, which include less than 30 amino acids, are not only involved in the provision of cellular energy but also in cellular communication, regeneration, and tissue

maintenance, related to physical activity.2 The ingredients producer focused on the study of MOTS-c, which stimulates muscle response to exercise and increases muscle strength, proving to be key to improving fitness and muscle health.3

Insulin Factor Type-1 (IGF-1) is a type of growth factor-like exerquine, essential for regulating muscle mass and acting as a link between muscle contraction and protein synthesis in fibres.4

Extracellular ATP (eATP) is a recently discovered form of the ATP nucleotide, traditionally known for its intracellular role in energy metabolism.5 During exercise, eATP is released into the extracellular environment from various cell types, such as myocytes,

"

Baolift™ activates skin’s exercise-like molecular mechanisms , improving muscle tone for a visibly lifted and rejuvenated complexion"

fibroblasts, and keratinocytes, and acts as an extracellular messenger, functioning as a key exerquine. eATP is part of purinergic signaling, one of the oldest and most universal mechanisms of communication between cells, allowing for fast and effective signal transmission. This makes eATP an essential component for cellular interaction and coordination during physical activities.6,7,8,9

SKIN-FASCIA-MUSCLE

BIOLOGICAL AXIS

The company investigated a new biological axis of the skin-fascia-muscle, demonstrating that it is possible to activate muscle cells through the prior activation of skin cells. The process is mediated by exerkines, which act as messengers between the tissues.

Vytrus Biotech proposes a new mechanism of action, known as the ‘outside-in’ effect, in contrast to the traditional perception of ‘insideout’, where muscle activation directly influences the condition of the skin.

The skin-fascia-muscle axis facilitates a bidirectional interaction where mechanical forces and biochemical signals are transmitted between the skin and the muscle, passing through the fascia, to the connective tissue that forms a threedimensional network crucial for modulating the transmission of muscle contractions to the skin, and thus, the mechanical information associated with exercise.10

Musculoskeletal tissue, located below the fascia, is directly linked to physical activity. This tissue is composed of contractile elements such as actin and myosin filaments and responsible for voluntary movement. Together with the skin and fascia, it forms a continuum, not only in terms of direct anatomical and mechanical relationship, but also as an intercommunicative complex that facilitates the bidirectional flow of communicating biomolecules.11,12

USING PLANT BIOTECH TO IMPROVE SKIN

Vytrus Biotech explored this synergy to integrate, for the first time in cosmetic science, the benefits of exercise on the skin through a

Figure 1: Baolift™ mechanism of action

Figure 2: Baolift™ significantly improved the luminosity and overall appearance of skin after the treatment, obtaining results in 14 days

D

isulfide bonds efficacy based on plant biotechnology to strengthen your hair

PROVEN EFFICACY

HAIR ANCHORING BOOSTING

SCALP HYDRATION, REGENERATION AND PROTECTION

HAIR RESTRUCTURING, PROTECTION AND REINFORCING

DISTRIBUTED IN SOUTH AFRICA BY

Elaya Renova™ The hair tensegrist

From wild olive tree stem cells

NEW TEST: DISULFIDE BONDS BOOSTING

Delivers a unique proteo-lipidic matrix from plant biotechnology to boost hair bonds for increased hair strength and elasticity.

DAMAGED HAIR REPAIR ↑ DISULFIDE BOND PRECURSORS*

*Quantification of free thiol levels.

ELAYA RENOVA™

** A comparable effect to benchmark, final product with patented active claimed to rebuild broken sulphide disulfide bonds and restore strength for visibility healthier hair.

Request a sample +186%

Figure 4: Baolift™ successfully decreased facial sagging and repositioned the entire facial contour into a fitter shape. The tensor effect and reduction in sagging was obtained in mm and as the mean value of the three measurements. Intergroup statistical analysis (active vs placebo, performed on variations in %) ***= p<0.001: ** = p<0.01

Figure 5: Baolift™ demonstrated its protective effect against gravity-induced deformation, improving the strength of the facial skin. The anti-gravity effect and sagging reduction was obtained in mm and as the mean value of the measurements. Intergroup statistical analysis (active vs placebo, performed on variations in %) ***= p<0.001: ** = p<0.01

new active ingredient based on sustainable plant biotechnology. Baolift™ is a 100% natural cosmetic ingredient derived from baobab (Adansonia digitata) stem cells.

Native to the tropical regions of Africa, the baobab tree stands out for its mechanical resistance, longevity and high nutritional value. It is considered a superfood in sports and wellbeing due to its substantial calcium content and high-quality proteins.

The company developed a cell training system to obtain the plant workout factor from baobab stem cells, generating a powerful molecular synergy. The resulting metabolome –extremely rich in exercise biomimetic molecules such as terpenes, polyphenols and high-quality proteins – regulates the production of skin exerkines, responsible for the activation of the molecular mechanisms of exercise in the skin, and in turn improves muscle and skin tone for a firmed skin appearance.

IN VITRO BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY

The effects of Baolift™ and its ability to activate cutaneous exerkines were evaluated

in independently cultured keratinocyte and fibroblast cell cultures. In vitro assays included quantification of MOTS-c, eATP, and IGF-1 and procollagen I synthesis in both cell types.

In both keratinocytes and fibroblasts, Baolift™ induces the production of cutaneous exerkines (epidermal workout factor), demonstrating its ability to enhance cellular communication mechanisms and the synthesis of key components for the integrity and functionality of the skin. The active ingredient induced a significant increase in procollagen I synthesis in fibroblasts, with a 62% increase, suggesting an activation of the biosynthetic pathway compatible with exerquine-like signaling. This observation is consistent with previous literature that corroborates the important regulatory role of eATP in increasing protein synthesis and the extracellular matrix1.

The secretome of cutaneous exerkines (epidermal workout factor) obtained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts (treated with Baolift™) was mixed (in a 1:1 ratio) and applied to a culture of human musculoskeletal cells for 24 hours at different doses. After this time, the levels of muscle exerkines (Ca2+ and MOTS-c) were quantified.

The induced cutaneous exerquine secretome by Baolift™ was shown to act on muscle cells by increasing markers linked to muscle contraction (intracellular Ca2+) by up to 13%, increasing the production of exerkines (myokines) such as MOTS-c by up to four times.

IN VIVO CLINICAL EVALUATION

To determine the effect of the active ingredient on improving wrinkles, hydration and skin luminosity, Vytrus Biotech conducted a clinical trial on a panel of 40 middle-aged volunteers who presented with dry skin and clinical evidence of skin ageing, such as mild to moderate wrinkles. The study was double-blind, placebo-controlled (application of each cream on one half of the face), for 14 and 28 days.

Skin’s hydration levels (Corneometer) and the luminosity of the skin (Konica Minolta CM700D colorimeter) were measured, and with profilometrics and PRIMOS 3D analysis, the variation in the depth of crow's feet wrinkles was analysed (figure 2).

To determine the effect of the active ingredient on improving skin’s biomechanical properties, Vyrtus Biotech conducted a clinical evaluation with a mixed panel of 60 mature volunteers who presented sagging skin with a loss of elasticity, such as mild to moderate wrinkles. The study was double-blind, placebocontrolled (application of each cream all over the face) for 28 and 56 days.

In this clinical trial, firmness and elasticity were evaluated by cutopometry, and a suction test was used to analyse skin fatigue in the face of mechanical stress.

The effect of Baolift™ on the repositioning of sagging skin was analysed by testing the tightening and antigravity effect (figure 3). The tightening effect was assessed by measuring the reduction in sagging of facial skin below the mandibular line. The focus was on the three main points targeting different areas of the jawline. Baolift™ demonstrated a tightening effect and a reduction of flaccidity in the mandibular line area, reaching a maximum reduction of 4.5 mm (figure 4).

To demonstrate the anti-gravity effect, a weight simulated gravitational pull on the cheek was used to measure facial skin sagging between the distance of the line aligned with the eyes and the point of application of the weight. Baolift™ demonstrated a V-lifting effect by reducing localised flaccidity in the mandibular area, reaching a maximum reduction of 3.2mm (figure 5). This trial demonstrates the possibility of activating facial muscles and rejuvenating the appearance of the skin through a sustainable plant-based strategy powered by biotechnology.

A third trial was carried out in a mixed mature panel of 30 volunteers who presented with a loss of elasticity, skin flaccidity and bags in the eye contour area, indicative of the accumulation of lipids and fluids. The study was doubleblind, placebo-controlled (application of each cream to the eye contour area) for 28 and 56 days. Eye contour bags were evaluated with prophylometrics and PRIMOS 3D analysis.

CONCLUSION

Baolift™ stands out as a groundbreaking innovation in skincare, going beyond conventional skin tightening methods by boosting cell-to-cell communication and enhancing the production of essential structural elements.

This cutting-edge mode of action results in noticeably firmer, more toned skin that better withstands external pressures, such as gravity. Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Baolift™ has proven its efficacy in reducing under-eye bags by stimulating the deeper skin layers, enhancing fluid circulation in the face and significantly lessening puffiness. •

References available on request

Figure 3: Vytrus Biotecj evaluated in vivo the efficacy of Baolift™ in enhancing the tightening and anti-gravity effect on the skin

The evolution of men’s skincare

Wellbeing, inclusivity and naturality are some of the biggest influences in modern male grooming. Eliminating traditional stereotypes, men are embracing their individuality. As attitudes shift, male grooming has become more than just a trend – it's a fundamental aspect of modern masculinity, prioritising appearance and skin health.

Men's grooming routines have undergone a significant transformation. Gone are the days when a splash of water and a quick shave sufficed, with the broader wellness trend and emphasis on self-care, mindfulness and holistic health having had great influence on the category.

"Male skin is unique due to higher testosterone levels"

Popular influencers and male celebrities, through their appearances and endorsements, are demystifying and influencing consumer behaviour prompting men to adopt grooming practices as part of their wellness routines.

UNIQUE SKIN WITH UNIQUE NEEDS

Male skin is unique due to higher testosterone levels. The skin texture is thicker, it has more hair and burns a lot more energy through perspiration. These differences in men’s physiology result in pore enlargement and increased sebum secretion, which can

influence general skin health and appearance.

Men by nature also tend to have a greater density of hair follicles and coarser hair, which can lead to razor burns, ingrown hairs and increased sensitivity during their daily grooming practices.

To maintain healthy skin, it is essential to balance sebum production and skin microflora through gentle cleansing and hydration. For this reason, natural and organic ingredients are enjoying prominence in male grooming products.

INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Croda has an extensive portfolio of over 200 innovative active ingredients for cosmetics and personal care applications. The supplier is constantly innovating in biotechnology, molecular synthesis, vegetal extraction, and plant cell culture.

This ensures regular improvements to the range with new and exciting concepts to match consumer trends, more sustainable production techniques and ever higher quality and standards to deliver effective solutions to the beauty and personal care market.

For men’s skincare, products can be formulated with a combination of the Matrixyl® range, BB-BIONT® and Zanthocare™. These bioactive ingredients offer cutting-edge solutions for men’s skin. They are designed to address various concerns, including:

• anti-ageing

• hydration

• acne

• dark spots

• actinic keratosis

• skin inflammation

• irritation

• protection against environmental damage

• firming and more.

These active ingredients can be formulated in cleansers, moisturisers, serums and other formats for cleansing, grooming, moisturisation and hydration. Regular use of products formulated with these actives can help men maintain healthy and radiant skin.

MICROBIOME BALANCE

The skin is a complex and dynamic organ that is home to trillions of microorganisms, including bacteria, viruses and fungi. This community of microorganisms is collectively known as the skin microbiome, which plays a vital role in maintaining skin’s health and protective function. Any imbalance in the skin microbiome can lead to acne, resulting in inflammation and marks on the skin.

" BB-BIONT® is an alternative to aesthetic medicine, aiding natural healing processes for smoother skin"

The microbiome is considered the upper most layer of the skin covering the dermis and epidermis. Microbiome disruption can be caused by different internal and external factors, resulting in damage to the lower layers of skin. Shaving, stress, UV exposure, wearing of facial masks, and harsh cleansers can result in acne, inflammation and skin blemishes such as pockmarks and dark spots.

To address this, Croda Beauty offers BB-BIONT®, a biomimetic peptide that helps to rebalance the microbiome and promote healthy skin. This innovative product selectively inhibits the growth of acne associated Cutibacterium acnes , balancing it with Staphylococcus epidermidis . The mechanism of action of the peptide prevents inflammation and promotes skin re-epithelialisation through the generation of keratinocytes and hyaluronic acid in the stratum corneum.

BB-BIONT® is an alternative to aesthetic medicine, aiding natural healing processes for smoother skin without harsh interventions.

A POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANT

Zanthocare™, derived from Zanthoxylum bungeanum berry, is a potent botanical extract renowned for its multifunctional benefits in skincare. It acts as a powerful antioxidant, which shields skin from free radicals, preventing oxidative damage. Zanthocare™’s emollient and humectant qualities help maintain crucial moisture levels, preventing dryness and ensuring smooth and supple skin. The versatility of the botanical extract makes it an ideal ingredient for a wide range of men’s skincare products. Zanthocare™ helps to balance the microbiome reducing body odours and to protect against external aggressors that lead to ageing. It also soothes inflamed skin.

For more information on these ingredients and male grooming product development ideas, contact the Croda Beauty team in South Africa. •

Beauty – www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb

Zanthoxylum bungeanum berry

Croda

Breaking stereotypes in men’s care

For some time now, male grooming has been trending. The category is expected to be worth $90.1 billion this year, with continued growth in the future.

According to Fragrance Oils, this shift can be attributed to men wanting to be their best self and smash the stigma that goes with male beautification.

The boom in the male grooming market likely started in the late 1990s when the concept of the ‘metrosexual’ male took hold and this consumer group began taking pride in their appearance.

Whilst men’s shaving products and beard care remain significant segments in male grooming, the skincare category has taken off, contributing almost 45.6% of the global category.

Fragrance Oils notes that with men becoming more familiar with the beauty category and focusing on their appearance, they are taking a preventative approach, appreciating the importance of a multi-step personal care routine with cleansers, moisturisers and antiageing products.

SKINCARE SPECIFIC

Brands are now targeting men who are looking for products that do more than meet their basic hygiene needs. For example, those that have anti- ageing benefits, showcase hero ingredients or address key concerns such as hair loss, dry skin, wrinkles and oily skin.

"Men are more invested in taking care of their physical and mental wellbeing"

wrinkles. It has also been found to soothe irritated skin. CosVivet HA can be used in creams, lotions, serums, after-shave balms, facial masks and cleansers.

FOR MEN ONLY

While some men prefer genderless grooming products, many still chose to use products designed specifically for them. This is also because men do have different needs to women when it comes to skin and personal care. For example, men tend to have a tougher skin texture and may benefit from products developed exclusively for them.

Simplicity, however, remains key. Despite the increased interest in their appearance, men still want their skin and personal care regimes to be quick, easy and effective so products that offer multiple benefits are popular. Although there is an appreciation for actives and quality ingredients, the simpler the better.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturising agent that is widely used in skincare products due to its ability to help skin attract and retain water. CosVivet HA (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate) is Brenntag’s line of natural skin bio actives produced by bio fermentation. This ingredient is an ideal natural moisturising agent for skincare applications including men’s products. It moisturises dry, ageing skin to help reduce

Fragrance also plays a key role in this category. There is a need for male grooming products to be designed with masculine fragrances that complement the product and application. Fragrance Oils offers several fragrance combinations that are ideally suited to male grooming products. Two of their more recent creations for this category include:

• Coconut & Black Vanilla, which provides a sumptuous, oriental woody accord combined with indulgent swirls of coconut milk nuances of creamy vanilla, smoky amber, sandalwood and sensuous musky undertones.

Did you know?

Grooming products for men include facials and more sophisticated products for skin and personal care appeared alongside traditional men’s products like shower gels, shaving products and basic hair care.

• Shea Butter & Tonka Bean, which brings together an indulgent shea butter accord combined with cardamom, ginger and artemisia embraced by comforting tonka bean and hazelnut.

WELLBEING NEEDS

Consumers continue to use beauty and personal care routines as a means of destressing and unwinding. This trend, also seen in the male grooming category, is influencing new product development .

Men are more invested in taking care of their physical and mental wellbeing. The experts at Fragrance Oils explain that major players are striving to break the feminine stereotypes associated with self-care to provide men with more mood-boosting products. This can be seen in the increased focus on promoting the calming or uplifting benefits of specific ingredients. The Scentmakers at Fragrance Oils have carefully crafted three fragrances that tap into this wellness theme:

1. The first fragrance draws on the comforting scent of sandalwood for a soothing sensorial experience.

2. The second is an exhilarating collision of bergamot and black pepper.

3. This fragrance features the timeless, relaxing scent of lavender used to enhance sleep and help men wind down after a busy day. For more information on male grooming formulations and fragrances, contact Brenntag Personal Care. •

Brenntag South Africa – charis.lewis@brenntag

Exploring dermatological dynamics in beard care

Taking a closer look at the interaction between razors and facial skin in beard care, BioMedical Emporium explores promising solutions to aid in conditions like pseudofolliculitis barbae, which can be caused by shaving. 1-3

For centuries, men have been looking for a safe and effective way to remove facial hair. On average, beard hairs grow at a rate of 0.27mm per day, with an estimated 6 000 to 25 000 hairs in an average beard. Shaving is a complex process that involves slicing and removing this constantly growing stubble using highly sharpened metal edges.

In the late 19 th century, the safety razor was developed, which serves as the basis for modern wet shaving systems. Over the past century, there have been significant advances in razor technology, making the shaving experience more comfortable and efficient.

SHAVING DYNAMICS

Understanding the forces involved in hair removal is crucial to achieving effective results without causing discomfort to the skin. The challenge in shaving lies in removing tough, terminal hairs while preserving the soft, flexible skin supporting them. This is a technical contradiction where improving hair removal efficiency may harm the surrounding skin. Creating an effective razor design requires balancing these requirements while considering various conflicting parameters. Although hair and skin are primarily composed of keratin proteins, differences in their structures result in considerable variations in their mechanical properties. Biological variability exists with each person having a unique pattern of facial hair growth

that varies in direction, coverage and density coupled with differences in facial curvature and shape.

"There have been significant advances in razor technology, making the shaving experience more comfortable and efficient"

These variations make it difficult for many men to shave without the after effect of skin irritation. This difficulty is particularly evident on the neck where several physiological factors make it a challenging facial area, including multiple hair growth directions, hairs with lower elevation angles, rougher skin topography, and looser skin attachment. These factors, coupled with difficult access and reduced visibility, make the neck more prone to problems such as erythema, irritation and shaving nicks.1-4

The forces applied during shaving can be divided into three primary components:

1. a force perpendicular to the skin to place the razor cartridge on the face

2. a force parallel to the skin to move the cartridge across the surface

3. a force to cut through the hairs.

However, the applied load or force that arises when the user presses the razor onto the face varies significantly between individuals. This happens because of differences in facial physiology, nerve sensitivity, consumer attitudes, experiences, preferences, and the type of razor used. A razor’s cartridge plays a crucial role in evenly distributing the load on the skin, but there is a trade-off between size and maneuverability.

Most modern razors have a front-toback pivot system to ensure even pressure distribution with the front-pivoting system being particularly advantageous. This system allows excessive force to be transmitted through soft elastomer fins to avoid blade damage which is important since consumer testing confirmed that most of the applied load is carried by the blades.1

UNDERSTANDING PFB

Shaving can lead to conditions such as pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB), which is a chronic, non-infectious inflammatory disorder. It occurs when the distal portion of the hair shaft re-enters the skin leading to a foreign-body reaction. This penetration can happen through two mechanisms:

1. extrafollicular penetration where the shaved hair shaft grows along its natural curvature and penetrates the epidermis 1mm to 2mm distal to the follicular opening, with a depth of penetration between 2mm to 3mm.

2. transfollicular penetration where the distal

tip of the shaved hair shaft retracts beneath the skin surface, pierces the follicular wall, and then enters the dermis. Stretching the skin before shaving may cause the newly cut, sharp-edged hair to retract underneath the skin, resulting in transfollicular penetration. Over the years, the main recommendation has been to completely stop shaving or to remove hair using an electric trimmer. However, this approach has limitations. It does not completely prevent hair from re-entering the skin, hence still leading to inflammation. Even when patients follow these preventive measures, 10% to 20% still develop inflammatory lesions. Recognising these limitations has led to the development of other treatment options focused on permanent hair removal or reduction to prevent the formation of new papules.

DERMAL BIOACTIVE SOLUTIONS

Keratolytic agents, including retinoids, alphaand beta-hydroxy acids, and urea cream play a crucial role in dermatological care. These agents are effective in thinning the epidermis to reduce the risk of hair becoming trapped beneath the skin. By promoting exfoliation and enhancing skin turnover keratolytic agents help maintain smooth and healthy skin, addressing common concerns such as ingrown hairs and clogged pores. 5, 7

Standard initial therapy for PFB generally includes topical retinoid application. Oral isotretinoin is a possible treatment option for severe recalcitrant PFB. However, oral isotretinoin, a scheduled pharmaceutical product, is not always considered effective and has unpleasant side effects such as dry eye syndrome and persistent chapped lips. In terms of daily skincare routines, glycolic and salicylic acids are useful treatment options due to their keratolytic dermal effects. In addition, glycolic and salicylic acids can also be administered as chemical peels to aid in PFB.5, 7

Depending on the concentration and pH value, the topical application of glycolic acid

will cause the denaturation of corneocytes and corneodesmosomes, resulting in the detachment of all components of the stratum corneum (peeling). Salicylic acid mainly interferes with hydrophobic interactions in the intercorneocytic space, dissolving corneodesmosomal contact and influencing the stability of the intercellular lipid matrix.

In contrast, the keratolytic effect of urea is mainly attributed to its influence on extracorneocytic structures. An indirect effect can also occur via antiproliferative effects on the vital epidermis. Similar effects, albeit with markedly lower clinical relevance, are attributed to lactic acid and allantoin. In addition to their keratolytic effects, the anti-inflammatory properties of glycolic and salicylic acids relieve inflammation and pain that accompanies PFB.7

"

Research indicates that bioactive compounds found in essential oils exhibit significant topical antibacterial effects"

Research indicates that bioactive compounds found in essential oils such as Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree oil), Citrus limon (lemon oil), Lavandula angustifolia (lavender oil), Thymus vulgaris (thyme oil), Myrtus communis (myrtle oil), Origanum vulgare (oregano oil), and Eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus oil) exhibit significant topical antibacterial effects.

Unlike conventional topical agents such as mupirocin and fusidic acid, these essential oils do not contribute to the development of antimicrobial resistance. However, due to their high volatility and propensity for rapid absorption through the skin, it is crucial to use essential oils

with caution. Adhering to recommended dermal application limits is necessary to prevent potential dermal irritation. 8, 9

It is essential to recognise that effective treatment strategies must be personalised to meet the unique needs and goals of each person. This individualised approach ensures that considerations such as cost, adherence, and patient response are carefully evaluated and addressed, leading to optimal outcomes in patient or consumer care.1, 2, 4 •

REFERENCES:

1. Cowley, K. & Vanoosthuyze, K. 2016. The biomechanics of blade shaving. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38:17–23. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12330

2. Dalia, Y., Khatib, J., Odens, H. & Patel, T. 2023. Review of treatments for pseudofolliculitis barbae. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 48:591–598. DOI: 10.1093/ced/llad075

3. Floyd, E.L., Henry, J.B. & Johnson, D.L. 2018. Influence of facial hair length, coarseness, and areal density on seal leakage of a tight-fitting half-face respirator. Journal of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene, 15:334–340. DOI: 10.1080/15459624.2017.1416388

4. Maurer, M., Rietzler, M., Burghardt, R. & Siebenhaar, F. 2016. The male beard hair and facial skin –challenges for shaving. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38:3–9. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12328

5. Nurzyńska-Wierdak, R., Pietrasik, D. & WalasekJanusz, M. 2022. Essential Oils in the Treatment of Various Types of Acne—A Review. Plants, 12(1):90. DOI: 10.3390/plants12010090

6. Sukakul, T., Bunyaratavej, S., Chaweekulrat, P., Trakanwittayarak, S. & Varothai, S. 2021. Facial hair shaving behavior and skin problems of shaved areas of males. The Journal of Dermatology, 48:1409–1413. DOI: 10.1111/1346-8138.16034

7. Williamson, D. A., Carter, G. P. & Howden, B. P. 2017. Current and Emerging Topical Antibacterials and Antiseptics: Agents, Action, and Resistance Patterns. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 30:827–860. DOI: 10.1128/CMR.00112-16

8. Wohlrab, J. 2021. Influence of keratolytics on cutaneous pharmacokinetics of glucocorticoids. JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft, 19:554–561. DOI: 10.1111/ddg.14439

9. Wu, Y., Konduru, R. & Deng, D. 2012. Skin characteristics of Chinese men and their beard removal habits. British Journal of Dermatology, 166:17–21. DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10785.

Grooming for confidence and mental well-being

When it comes to personal care, the conversation often revolves around skincare routines, beauty products and self-care practices marketed towards women. However, the significance of grooming for men should not be underestimated.

Themba Ndlovu, brand manager for Clere For Men, explains: “From skincare to grooming rituals, these practices hold immense potential in boosting not just physical appearance but also mental well-being. In the journey towards selfconfidence, male grooming plays a pivotal role, offering a pathway to a positive selfimage and improved mental health.”

REDEFINING THE CATEGORY

Today, the landscape of male grooming has e xpanded to encompass a wide array of products and routines tailored to address specific needs. Practicing a comprehensive skincare regimen offers men the opportunity to invest in themselves and prioritise their well-being.

The connection between grooming and mental health is profound. Engaging in regular grooming routines can serve as a form of self-care, providing moments of relaxation and rejuvenation. Take, for instance, a simple skincare routine.

Cleansing and moisturising not only promotes healthy skin but also creates a sense of mindfulness and self-awareness.

Studies have shown that taking care of one's appearance can lead to a boost in self-esteem and confidence. When men feel good about how they look, it translates into a positive self-image that radiates outwardly, influencing interactions and perceptions of oneself.

CONFIDENCE FROM CARE

Confidence is often cited as one of the most attractive qualities a person can possess.

For men, grooming rituals can be a gateway to cultivating this inner confidence. Whether it's achieving a wellgroomed work or social look that reflects personal style, or simply maintaining healthy skin, these practices contribute to a sense of pride and self-assurance.

Grooming can also be a form of selfexpression. The products chosen by men and the styles they embrace all reflect

" For men, grooming rituals can be a gateway to cultivating inner confidence"

individuality and personality. This sense of ownership over one’s appearance fosters a deeper connection to oneself and a confidence that is rooted in authenticity.

The Clere For Men range, available in the Legend, Ice, Storm, and Fire variants, is suitable to all men’s needs and enriched with Glycerine and vitamins E and A to keep the skin moisturised for 48 hours. The range is formulated to keep skin soft, supple and feeling good.

MORE THAN SUPERFICIAL

“Male grooming is far more than a superficial endeavour,” says Ndlovu.

“It is a pathway to enhanced mental well-being and self-assurance. By investing time and effort into personal care routines, men can reap the benefits of improved self-esteem, a positive self-image, and a greater sense of confidence.”

The next time a man reaches for his skincare products, remember he is not just grooming his appearance – he is also nurturing his mental health. •

Clere For Men – clere.co.za

Compliance, efficiency and patient centricity

IMCD is an expert in creating patient-friendly dosage forms for every life stage. In this article, the supplier shares insights into suitable excipients and factors to consider for patient-centric dosage form development.

The concept of good palatable drugs for increased patient compliance was initiated in the early 1970s with the introduction of chewable and fast-dissolving tablets.1 These forms were designed to dissolve rapidly in the mouth without the need for water, providing quick drug absorption while avoiding the first-pass effect. With the increase in geriatric and paediatric populations, both suffering from some form of dysphagia, there has been a higher demand for smaller and easier-to-swallow tablets.2 These patientcentric drug products are advantageous for therapeutic efficiency and improving quality of life, while reducing overall healthcare costs.3,4

As technology advanced, pharmaceutical companies began to explore new methods for drug delivery. Orally disintegrating tablets (ODTs) gained attention for their potential to improve patient compliance, particularly among paediatric and geriatric populations. Originally manufactured by cumbersome methods like freeze-drying and lyophilisation, it wasn’t until the early 2000s that direct compression became the dominant manufacturing method.2 By then, several ODT products had been successfully commercialised, including formulations for antihistamines, analgesics and antiemetics.2,3

CATEGORY EXPANSION

Advancements in technology have led to improvements in ODT formulations, including taste-masking techniques, stability enhancement strategies, and novel excipients. These innovations have expanded the range of drugs that can be formulated as ODTs. They need to have quick wetting time, low hardness and friability yet high porosity, with many of these characteristics opposing one another.

The reason for such groundbreaking success of these dosage forms is the constant advancements in the field of excipients, with excellent compactibility, good flowability, and particularly co-processing being key for a typical ODT. Balancing the ideal porosity, low friability and fast disintegration remain crucial

ODT challenges that have been drastically reduced with the advantages that excipients like SuperTab® 50 ODT or co-processed excipients like Ludiflash® offer.

WHAT ARE CO-PROCESSED EXCIPIENTS?

These are the combination of two or more excipients that do not undergo any chemical interactions. Co-processed excipients provide improved physical properties and performance characteristics that cannot be achieved by simple physical mixing.

A single product optimises the performance of the multiple excipients incorporated in it. The benefits include:

• Superior flow properties without the need for the addition of glidants

• Better compressibility profiles

• Better dilution potential.

As an example, Kollitab™ DC 87 utilises the benefits of its inherent filler-binderdisintegrant-lubricant composition and provides

"Mouthfeel, taste, odour and texture remain decisive factors for patient compliance and adherence"

a synergistic effect, allowing for a simple direct compression process. Ludiflash®, with its synergistic filler-binder-and-disintegrant composition, gives extremely fast disintegration with superior mouthfeel for a good ODT formulation.

The mouthfeel, taste, odour and texture remain decisive factors for patient compliance and adherence, making taste masking a primary challenge when formulating ODTs.

There is no straightforward solution here as the dose of the API, solubility, taste profile, particle size, etc. determine the vehicle of choice for taste masking. Sometimes, a combination of (masking) flavours is enough for a palatable

tablet, but often a coating technique is needed.

In IMCD’s Technical Centres, its R&D teams have successfully masked numerous actives with Kollicoat® Smartseal 30D as an aqueous dispersion that provides both taste masking and moisture protection followed by rounding-up the taste experience with a flavour.

RESEARCH DRIVING INNOVATION

ODTs continue to evolve, with ongoing research focused on enhancing their performance, stability, and patient acceptability.

Nanotechnology, 3D printing and tastemasking technologies are among the areas of active investigation in the field of ODT development. Regardless of the final form – be it orodispersible granules (ODGs), orodispersible films (ODFs), orodispersible mini tablets (ODMT), 3D printed dosage forms, or orodispersible buccal patches – they all share a common aim: to offer a palatable, memorable dosage form that appeals to patients’ needs. •

REFERENCES:

1. Fady A. Malaak, Khalid Abu Zeid, Shahinaze A. Fouad, Mohamed A. El-Nabarawi. Orodispersible Tablets: Novel Strategies and future challenges in Drug Delivery. Research J. Pharm. and Tech. 2019; 12(11):5575-5582. doi: 10.5958/0974-360X.2019.00966.1

2. Vallet T, Michelon H, Orlu M, Jani Y, Leglise P, LaribeCaget S, Piccoli M, Le Fur A, Liu F, Ruiz F, Boudy V. Acceptability in the Older Population: The Importance of an Appropriate Tablet Size. Pharmaceutics. 2020 Aug 8;12(8):746. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics12080746. PMID: 32784378; PMCID: PMC7465437.

3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC9960885/

4. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC7495299/

IMCD – www.imcdsa.co.za

The solution to your oral formulation needs

The solution to your oral formulation needs

Unlocking Innovation with ODT Formulatory Solutions

Unlocking Innovation with ODT Formulatory Solutions

IMCD’s collaborative approach ensures seamless integration with pharmaceutical manufacturers, facilitating the development of innovative ODT formulations that meet stringent quality standards and regulatory compliance. Whether it’s enhancing drug solubility, accelerating disintegration time, or improving palatability, our team of experts provides tailored solutions to address specific formulation challenges.

IMCD’s collaborative approach ensures seamless integration with pharmaceutical manufacturers, facilitating the development of innovative ODT formulations that meet stringent quality standards and regulatory compliance. Whether it’s enhancing drug solubility, accelerating disintegration time, or improving palatability, our team of experts provides tailored solutions to address specific formulation challenges.

Together, let’s embark on a journey of innovation and transformation in pharmaceutical formulation!

Together, let’s embark on a journey of innovation and transformation in pharmaceutical formulation!

IMCD South Africa

IMCD South Africa

275 Oak Avenue

275 Oak Avenue

PO Box 1378

PO Box 1378

Randburg 2125

Randburg 2125

South Africa

South Africa

Create tablets and capsules consumers will love

In today's competitive pharma and nutraceutical market, creating products that resonate with consumers is more critical than ever. Colorcon explores key factors involved in creating tablets and capsules that prioritise consumer-centric design.

Tablets and capsules remain preferred dosage forms among consumers, but merely providing the required medication is no longer enough. To stand out and build a loyal customer base, manufacturers must prioritise consumer appeal and satisfaction throughout the product development process.

From selecting label-friendly ingredients to optimising appearance, taste, and packaging, Colorcon delves into the strategies that can elevate your products, enhance consumer satisfaction, and differentiate your brand in a crowded market.

LABEL-FRIENDLY INGREDIENTS

Whilst the terms natural and label friendly are open to interpretation, it’s clear that some ingredients are less popular than they once were (titanium dioxide for instance). Using label-friendly ingredients that consumers recognise and trust is essential in today's market. Natural ingredients not only align with consumers’ preferences but also contribute to a positive brand image.

For over-the-counter products, marketing claims highlighting natural ingredients can elevate your brand and set your product apart from competitors.

APPEARANCE FACTORS

• Size – The size of a tablet can significantly influence consumer perception and experience. Tablet shape and dimensions must be carefully considered to ensure the dosage form appears as small as possible. Smaller-sized tablets are easier and more comfortable to swallow, reducing the risk of choking or discomfort during ingestion. For the adult population, tablets weighing 300mg to 450mg with an oval or caplet shape offer an ideal balance for ease of handling and swallowing. However, this size might not be achievable with active nutraceutical ingredients that are formulated at a high dose. Careful selection of excipients to balance tablet properties with size, along with the addition of a suitable coating to aid swallowability, will provide a consumer-friendly dosage form.

" The colour of a medication has a psychological impact on consumers"

• Colour – The power of colour in marketing and branding has been well documented for many years. The colour of a medication has a psychological impact on consumers. For instance, warm colours like red and orange may convey energy and vitality, suitable for tablets meant to boost mood or energy levels. Conversely, calming colours like blue or green may be more

appropriate for tablets designed to reduce anxiety or promote relaxation. Pigments must be carefully selected to ensure regulatory acceptability in the target markets. An extensive range of non-synthetic pigments are now available to enhance consumer appeal and improve identification.

• Coating – Although some pharmaceutical companies may choose not to coat tablets, this could prove a costly error in the long term. From an aesthetic point of view, uncoated tablets can be dusty or powdery, have a rough tablet surface and may even be perceived as poor quality. Coating is a relatively easy way to improve the appearance of any tablet, ensure it is easily identifiable and convey brand image. Optimisation of taste and mouthfeel can be achieved through the application of a coating. Specialised coatings like Opadry EZ swallow coating

Did you know?

Colorcon is a globally trusted supplier of speciality excipients, film coatings, and packaging for the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries. With its expertise and quality products, the supplier helps manufacturers create products that patients and consumers will love. The South African agent for Colorcon is PA Cuthbert & Co.

Make label friendly tablets and capsules that your customers will love!

Nutracore™ Label Friendly Excipients deliver unrivaled powder flow and compressibility, while our Nutrafinish® Dietary Supplement Coatings ensure a great visual appearance to distinguish your products and meet consumer preference.

Ensure your products are protected from moisture degredation

Core: Starch 1500® Partially Pregelatanitzed Maize Starch stabilizes moisture sensitive ingredients

Coating: apply Nutrafinish® Moisture Protection coating to add an extra layer of protection.

New! Extensive range of packaging solutions to protect and extend the shelf life of your products.

Learn more

www.colorcon.com

can improve tablet mobility over traditional coatings, reducing the probability of tablets sticking in the throat or oesophagus.

CONTROLLED RELEASE

By providing a sustained release of medication over an extended period, controlled release drugs play a pivotal role in minimising dosing regimens.

Delivering the active ingredient at a controlled rate, these drugs can reduce the frequency of dosing, offering convenience and improved patient compliance. This not only simplifies me dication schedules but also helps to maintain consistent drug levels in the bloodstream, leading to better therapeutic outcomes and enhanced patient satisfaction.

Controlled release formulations are particularly beneficial for medications that require frequent dosing, allowing patients to adhere to their treatment regimen more effectively while minimising the risk of missed or double doses.

MASKING UNPLEASANT TASTE AND ODOUR

Eliminating or masking an unpleasant odour can contribute to the overall perception of effectiveness and provide a positive consumer experience.

Some manufacturers have incorporated enteric coatings and specialised outer shells to delay the breakdown of capsules until they have passed through the upper digestive system, reducing the chances

of reflux or unpleasant after-effects like ‘fishy burps’, common with Omega-3 supplements.

The sense of smell is closely linked with taste, and unpleasant odours can deter consumers from taking or repurchasing a product. Foul smells are often associated with low-quality products or those that have ‘gone off’, which can decrease consumer trust and reduce the likelihood of repeat purchase.

ENSURING STABILITY

Effective protection from external factors such as oxygen, humidity and moisture are essential to maintain the product's efficacy and safety. Making sure the product reaches the consumer the way it was intended conveys trust and ensures the product's quality and reliability.

Controlling moisture should be considered in three ways, protecting the ingredients using core excipients like starch, a specialised moisture protective film coating and protective packaging. A moisture barrier film coating is particularly important since users tend to remove products from their primary packaging, decanting them into daily pill organisers.

PACKAGING MATTERS

The outer packaging should be easy to open, ensuring consumers can access the product without a struggle or frustration, ultimately contributing to a positive experience.

"Coating is a relatively easy way to improve the appearance of any tablet "

Beyond ease of access, the packaging must guarantee the product's integrity throughout its shelf life.

By safeguarding the product from environmental elements, manufacturers can ensure that the product reaches consumers with the longest possible shelf life.

ENHANCE CONSUMER SATISFACTION

By incorporating these consumercentric elements into the design and formulation of nutraceutical and pharmaceutical products, manufacturers can optimise their products for a better consumer experience.

Prioritising natural label-friendly ingredients, attractive appearance, easy of swallowing, dosing schedules, improving taste and odour, and using functional packaging not only enhance consumer satisfaction but also builds trust and loyalty, setting your products apart in a competitive market. •

Colorcon – www.colorcon.com

PA Cuthbert & Co – pacuthbert.co.za

Discover the power of partnership with Hersol Manufacturing Labs!

At Hersol, we put people first. Our commitment to our clients goes beyond mere production – we’re dedicated to transforming your vision into reality. With our unparalleled expertise in formulation development, meticulous raw material sourcing, and cutting-edge pilot scale production capabilities, Hersol empowers you to bring your innovative concepts to life.

Why choose Hersol as your contract manufacturer?

Because we understand the importance of trust and reliability in every step of the journey. From concept to creation, we ensure that every aspect of product development and production is handled with precision and care.

44 Years of excellence

With our unmatched expertise, cutting-edge facilities, unwavering commitment to quality and dedication to customer satisfaction, choose us as your contract manufacturer, unlock endless possibilities for innovation and growth in the complementary medicines industry and experience the diff erence first-hand.

ACCREDITED BODIES:

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is registered with reputable organizations:

• Sahpra Manufacturing licence

• South African Health Products Regulatory Authority

• South African Department of Health

• South African Pharmacy Council

• Health Product Association (HPA)

• Self-Care Association of South Africa

Laurence Solomons CEO Laurence@Hersol.co.za

• FDA Food Facility

• S.A.N.H.A (South African National Halaal Authority), NIHT (National Independent Halaal Trust) to offer Halaal certified products.

• Montreal Kosher Authorities (Global Kosher Certification) to offer Kosher certified products.

Barry Solomons Marketing Director Barry@Hersol.co.za

Kevin Van Wyngaardt Managing Director kevin@hersol.co.za

Riaan Herselman Operations Director Riaan@Hersol.co.za

Tumelo Langa Production Manager Prodman@hersol.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd

tel: +27 11 614 6631/2 | email: enquiries@hersol.co.za | web: www.hersol.co.za

Controlled release – when timing is everything

IFF has established a new platform for its portfolio of controlled release products to provide comprehensive solutions for pharmaceutical therapies that benefit patients.

Under the banner, ‘Timing is Everything’, the new controlled release platform includes IFF’s controlled release excipients, METHOCEL™, ETHOCEL™ and POLYOX™.

"The Timing is Everything platform supports pharmaceutical formulators in providing more effective options for patients"

The platform highlights the importance of the controlled release of active ingredients and in improving patient compliance. Complete with educational materials for partners, resources and access to subject matter experts, the platform can be found online.

“We are excited to launch the Timing is Everything platform, which celebrates our portfolio of controlled release products and supports pharmaceutical formulators in providing more effective options for patients,” said Jason Hunt, global strategic marketing manager, IFF Pharma Solutions.

“Our experience, knowledge and aptitude for problem-solving help ensure our partners’ therapeutic innovations get to market faster.”

IMPROVED

TREATMENT AND COMPLIANCE

Controlled release formulations are particularly beneficial when specificity is needed, including reduced dosing frequency,

enhanced safety profiles, and minimised side effects. These benefits contribute to better patient compliance and treatment adherence. As a result, controlled release dosage forms continue to gain prominence as one of the most dynamic delivery systems in the pharmaceutical landscape.

For over 70 years, IFF Pharma Solutions has been a trailblaser in the controlled release domain, continually introducing groundbreaking products that redefine the standards of drug delivery. The company’s signature offerings –METHOCEL™, ETHOCEL™ and POLYOX™ – have not only laid the groundwork for the sector but also persist in propelling forward-thinking solutions to meet intricate drug delivery demands.

RELIABLE AND EFFECTIVE

In a steadfast commitment to innovation, METHOCEL™ cellulose ethers remain a top choice for controlled-release matrix formulations. Offering a versatile range of methylcellulose and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose products, METHOCEL™ caters to a broad spectrum of formulation characteristics.

With a long-standing history of reliability in pharmaceutical applications, it continues to deliver unparalleled efficacy in both solid and liquid dosage forms.

SUPER TASTE-MASKING

ETHOCEL™ ethylcellulose polymer products are distinguished by their organosolubility, precise specification ranges, and uniform ethoxyl functionality.

Renowned as a polymer of choice for coating multi-particulates, ETHOCEL™ is

indispensable for attaining modified release and superior taste-masking in various pharmaceutical applications.

WATER-SOLUBLE POLYMERS

POLYOX™ polyethylene oxide products are recognised for their pivotal role in osmotic pump delivery systems and are equally adept in specialty matrices that demand distinctive characteristics such as high swelling, mucoadhesion, abuse deterrence, and exceptional mechanical strength.

A PASSION FOR PERFECTION

“We are proud to help customers find answers at every turn,” says Paula Garcia Todd, global applications, development and innovation director, IFF Pharma Solutions.

“Our passion for perfecting technologies for controlled release, to help improve the quality of patients’ lives, drives us to innovate. As we celebrate our history of leadership, and plan future innovative solutions, we remain focused on what we call our ‘everyday innovations’. From METHOCEL™ and ETHOCEL™ to POLYOX™, our products offer customised solutions for various release profiles.”•

Visit pharma.iff.com/ controlled-release-platform for more information.

All you need to know about hair manageability

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa hosted its second online seminar on 2 May which focused on hair manageability. The lineup of presenters was outstanding. They shared their scientific knowledge relating to the topic and did an excellent job to ensure the dissemination of scientific information.

TAILOR

MADE

HAIR REPAIR

Marcel van Rooyen of Symrise kicked off the seminar with a presentation on adaptive peptides for tailor made hair repair.

The environment, and daily, weekly and monthly hair habits like washing, drying, brushing, straightening, colouring and bleaching can damage hair. When asked, consumers defined damaged hair as a type of hair alongside fine and combination hair. Human hair is made up of 95% protein. Damage to the proteins impacts the hair’s internal structure, changing the lipid and amino structures and causing tears in the chemical bonds of the hair fibre.

Marcel highlighted an Oat Peptide as an adaptive peptide, which offers tailor made hair repair. This natural active ingredient consists of oat peptides obtained via biotechnology extraction from organic oats. Claims associated with the Oat Peptide include repair, protection and anti-breakage.

Hair damage usually leads to the breakdown of chemical bonds and charge exposure within the hair fibre. The greater the damage, the more the charged and polar areas are exposed. Due to the low molecular weight and polarity of peptides, Oat Peptide can interact with the damaged sites by penetrating the hair and hair cortex. The peptides adapt according to the level of damage and work to restore the structural integrity of the hair. The Oat Peptide is therefore an adaptive peptide with the ability to deeply penetrate hair to rebuild and restore the condition of the hair.

WEAVES AND WIGS ON THE RISE

Lutendo Magina of Magina R & D Consulting spoke about the growing popularity of weaves and wigs in South Africa. This surge can be attributed to several factors, but one stands out as the primary driver: convenience.

Styling natural hair can be time-consuming and requires specific products and techniques. Weaves and wigs offer a quick and convenient alternative, perfectly suited to the busy lifestyles of many South Africans. They allow for a wider variety of hairstyles with minimal effort, making them an attractive option for a vast segment of the population.

"The weaves and wigs trend has created a significant opportunity for product innovation in the hair styling category"

The weaves and wigs trend has created a significant opportunity for product innovation in the hair styling category. Products like mousses, glues and pomades are essential for installing, maintaining and styling weaves.

One of the latest trends in weave styling products is the wax stick. This innovative tool is specifically designed for use on weaves and wigs, offering a range of benefits from smoothing fly-aways and providing enhanced

hold and texture to seamless blending, allowing the user to incorporate some of their natural hair in the look.

The efficacy of a wax stick lies in its formulation. Common ingredients include:

• paraffin wax, which provides structure and hold to the product

• natural beeswax to add shine and help the product adhere to hair

• silicones, which create a smooth, protective layer on the hair, reducing frizz and fly-aways

• polymers and copolymers, which are synthetic ingredients to enhance hold, manageability and the overall styling capabilities of the wax stick.

HAIR MATTERS

In her presentation entitled Hair Matters, Seema Singh of Marico explained why hair matters to consumers. There is the obvious functional and physical perspective of the importance of hair, but there is also the intangible emotional perspective. Hair matters because it conveys what we stand for. It is associated with concepts of freedom, identity, confidence, sensuality, self-care and self-expression.

Seema highlighted the richness of diversity in the South African context from chemical structure to curl typology. She looked at old, regressive categorisation of hair types (i.e. Asian, African and Caucasian), and compared this to modern categorisation, which focuses on alphabetical and numerical systems for curl typology.

The presentation also discussed the uniqueness of African hair and the differences in the key characteristics including dryness/ moisture content, cuticle layers, density and diameter, and how some products and styling aids may have a damaging and adverse effect on African hair.

The presentation ended with insights into how to formulate products responsibly to serve the unique needs of African hair. Seema also highlighted the importance of researching and keeping abreast of new ingredient trends technology to serve the unique needs of local consumers. The key takeaways to consider when formulating product to meet the specific needs of African hair and to promote healthy hair include safe relaxers, gentle cleansing, daily moisture protection and weekly post care treatments.

MICROPLASTIC FREE POLYMERS FROM NATURAL SOURCES

Botanichem’s Robyn Brown discussed the use of polymers in hair manageability. SAPPI, a South African company, has developed cellulose microfibrils from the vast amount of paper pulp biproduct, left over from paper manufacture.

This mechanically processed cellulose forms a 3D network, which provides superior stability to other well-known natural polymers such as xanthan and guar gums.

When used in a conditioner, the cellulose microfibrils allow for smoothing of the cuticle making hair much easier to comb, without losing volume or causing flaking on the hair strands. In shampoos it boosts and stabilises foam. It also allows for the development of very thin sprayable products and helps create a beautiful spray pattern in use.

The microfibrils have a viscoelastic nature which causes the product not to run down the hair strand but would need to be manually spread. The 3D network also allows for even application of the product and actives on strands.

Brown also discussed Brown Seaweed and Mamaku Black Fern from New Zealand which form an excellent polymer for hair care and styling. The seaweed is high in sulphated GAGs and combined with the glucosamines from the Mamaku Black Fern. This creates a polymer that is more hydrating than Hyaluronic Acid and which allows for the slow release of actives onto the hair strand and scalp. Black Currant and

Green Tea plants, also from New Zealand, are adapted to growing in an area where there is no protective ozone layer. These plants have been shown to produce more anti-oxidants because of the environment in which they grow. Black Currant and Green Tea extracts help to protect the scalp and hair strands from damage caused by harsh UV exposure and help prevent colour loss in coloured hair.

A shampoo and conditioner containing the New Zealand polymer and plant mix were applied to hair strands and compared to a well-known high-end market product. It was found that the hair treated with the New Zealand polymer and plant mix produced more shine with excellent long-lasting styling and volume properties compared to the market benchmark.

It was concluded that natural polymers can play a significant role in hair manageability without weighing down the hair strands and allowing for natural hair styling.

CONSUMER SATISFACTION IS KEY

Consumers with Afro-textured hair face unique challenges due to the tight and coiled nature of their hair. These challenges include dehydration, tangling and breakage, which result in poor hair manageability and limited versatility options.

In her presentation, Nina Kioko of L’Oreal South Africa discussed the global beauty brand’s objective to develop a curl activator styling gel to keep hair hydrated, soft, and defined, while also providing manageability and versatility.

The development process involved understanding consumer behavior, product usage, benefits, and expectations. This understanding was then translated into sensory attributes, which guided the development of a standardised manual. The manual focuses on addressing consumer pain points such as dehydration, stiffness, and loose curls and required specific expectations like shine, softness, moisture retention, and curl definition.

By considering these factors, formulators were able to create a curl activator styling gel that specifically addressed the needs of consumers. The result was a cost-efficient product that delivered high consumer satisfaction. The success of this approach highlights the importance of understanding consumers and adapting to their changing behaviors and product perceptions. It is crucial to tailor sensory attributes when evaluating and guiding formulators to create products that can meet the desired results and satisfaction of all consumers. This understanding and customisation are essential in an evolving world, where consumer needs and preferences continue to evolve. By continuously adapting and catering to these changes, companies can ensure that their products effectively address consumer needs and provide a high level of satisfaction.

THE JOURNEY OF HAIR STYLING

The presentation, Solutions for Styling Afro-Textured Hair, by Lesego Malepe of Croda and Ali Raliphada (ex-Croda) navigated the journey of hair styling from its roots as a symbol of identity in ancient times to its contemporary status as an emblem of resistance and celebration.

Lesego and Ali looked at the current hairstyling landscape in sub-Saharan Africa, dissecting market dynamics, emerging trends, and prevalent hairstyles. Central to the discussion was a nuanced understanding of Afro-textured hair, encompassing its unique composition, curl patterns, and follicle shapes.

The presentation meticulously dissected the distinctive challenges inherent in caring for Afro-textured hair, acknowledging the vulnerability of Afro-textured hair to dryness, breakage and tangling among other issues. Using this analysis, Croda presents targeted solutions to address the aesthetic and health needs of Afro-textured hair.

1. Holistic care, prioritising scalp health and detangled hair as foundational for hairstyling. The team presented solutions that rebalance the scalp microbiome and have great softening and conditioning effects on higher curl type hair.

2. Protect and repair, with solutions that help to preserve hair’s integrity during styling and repair damage from chemical treatments and unhealthy styling practices. Example formulations include a heat protecting spray incorporating a hair strengthening agent.

3. Style, hold, and maintain, with an emphasis on enhancing style versatility and longevity using tailored solutions to define and maintain curls and combat frizz. Formulations include a styling mousse and a plaiting butter.

STYLING AND CARING FOR NATURAL HAIR

Jacques Strydom of Evonik and Tumelo Chipu of Orchem delivered an insightful presentation on the burgeoning natural hair movement and its implications on consumers with curly hair. They highlighted the growing trend of embracing natural, curly hair, which has become a symbol of identity and self-confidence.

They shed light on the specific needs of curly-haired individuals, including the demand for sensitive scalp solutions and versatile styling products that do not compromise hair health. Jacques and Tumelo underscored the significance of individualism and the joy of selfexpression through one's natural hair texture. They also addressed the challenges faced by men with curly hair, who have limited hair care options. They discussed the different hair textures, from wavy to kinky, and the specific product claims desired by consumers, such as purifying shampoos for oily scalps and damage-repair conditioners for dry ends. The presentation also touched on the importance of scalp care, drawing parallels between scalp and facial skin care, and the need for innovative ingredients that cater to both.

The session concluded with an overview of hand-picked formulations, presented by Tumelo. These were designed to meet the specific needs of curly-haired consumers during the transition phase to natural hair, the everyday routine, and the quest for bouncy curls. The formulations included a sulfate-free shampoo and a high-oil cleansing scrub, highlighting Evonik and Orchem’s commitment to providing solutions that support hair health and celebrate natural curls.

PROTECTION FOR DAMAGED HAIR

Vinayak Rupnar of Dow Chemical IMEA and Charlene Fournier of Dow Chemicals, Seneffe, Belgium discussed long-lasting care and protection for damaged hair.

Damaged hair is consistently among the top claims in new hair care product launches. Hair can be damaged due to mechanical force, heat treatment, chemical treatment, environment (UV, pollution), ageing and lifestyle. Dow continues to expand its toolbox of damage care solutions with materials that bring improvement and care benefits.

In this purpose-built study, hair care testing protocols were developed to assess different Dow technologies for damage care benefits such as:

• Restoration of hair’s hydrophobic state

• Long-lasting hydrophobicity and conditioning

• Protection from hair breakage.

Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Undeceth-11 (and) Undeceth-5), Amodimethicone (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (and) Trideceth-3 (and) Trideceth-15), Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone and Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer (and) C12-13 Pareth-23 (and) C12-13 Pareth-3 were tested for their damage care benefits. These materials help keep hair in a most natural, beautiful state, erasing signs of hair damage signs for a prolonged period by reducing combing force, restoring the hydrophobic state of hair and offering protection from breakage. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

INC meeting on plastic pollution paves the way for binding treaty

The recent INC meeting in Ottawa, Canada was the largest one to date. Plastics SA was there to represent local industry.

The Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee (INC) recently concluded its fourth session as part of a global effort to develop a legally binding agreement on plastic pollution, including in the marine environment. INC-4 brought together over 4 500 delegates representing 170 member states and over 480 observer organisations. This was the fourth meeting of its kind, with previous INC meetings having taken place in Uruguay, France and Kenya. The fifth and final meeting takes place in Busan, South Korea from 25 November to 1 December 2024.

Anton Hanekom, executive director of Plastics SA, represented the South African plastics industry in the discussions as an observer delegate, supported by the Chemical and Allied Industries' Association (CAIA). Their participation aligned with the call by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) for the private sector to become actively involved in the discussions to meet the UN Sustainable Development Goal 17.

“The recent INC-4 discussions were different from previous meetings. This time round scientists, businesses, civil society, and governments engaged in detailed, robust discussions and often tense debates about which words and sections should be included in the proposed agreement. It was also encouraging to see the negotiators dealing with the more technical aspects,” Hanekom reported.

INDUSTRY VOICES IN OTTAWA

With just one meeting left to finalise the UN plastics treaty text by the end of 2024, governments saw themselves under increased pressure to advance critical work on the Revised Zero Draft of the future instrument, prepared by the INC Secretariat in December 2023.

Lively discussions on many topics included capping virgin production, boosting recycled content, enhancing

waste collection, phasing out certain substances and international trade. Efforts by opposing pressure groups to limit the production of plastic products were faced by strong opposition from petrochemicalproducing countries and industry groups lobbying in Ottawa. Throughout the INC-4 process, representatives of the plastics industry aimed to provide a comprehensive understanding of the plastics value chain and its role in combatting plastic pollution.

" The reduction of plastic pollution in the environment and marine environment remains a key topic"

“From the beginning, the parties collaborated well and managed to simplify the almost 70-page updated draft language, merge text choices, and eliminate repetitions where feasible. All options and stances are still on the table, and stark differences have emerged, particularly when it comes to the topics of scope, trade restrictions, financial mechanisms, chemicals and polymers of concern, problematic and avoidable plastic products, and reduction and phase-out measures for primary plastic polymers,” Hanekom commented.

Plastics SA supported the view held by Global Partners for Plastics Circularity, which underscored demand-side solutions, such as boosting recycled content and enhancing waste collection.

KEY AGENDA POINTS

The reduction of plastic pollution in the environment and marine environment remains a key topic. The discussions highlighted the importance of both global and local Extended Producer Responsibility

(EPR) schemes – emphasising not only producer fees but also operational involvement.

Other topics high on the agenda included chemicals of concerns and alternative plastics. Proposals were made by five different countries to phase out the use of five substances used in packaging by 2030, whilst many states advocated for equal risk reduction standards across all types of plastics throughout their lifecycle.

The trans-boundary shipment and trade of plastic waste between countries was also discussed, including the possibility of expanding the Basel Convention regulations to include trade regulations related to virgin resins and new products. Some countries are now discussing the possibility of allowing the trans-boundary shipment of waste between countries.

NAVIGATING COMPLEX CHALLENGES

“Questions are still being raised about the overlap with existing international instruments such as the Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm Conventions, as well as regional and national legislation that is already being enforced for plastics and substances used in all materials.

Condensing this into one international treaty that must be agreed upon within seven days is very ambitious,” Hanekom explained.

“The plastics industry remains committed to addressing plastic pollution through collaboration, innovation and evidence-based solutions. We believe that a multi-stakeholder approach, grounded in science and data, is essential for achieving meaningful and sustainable progress in line with the UN Sustainable Development Goals.”

As these discussions continue, Plastics SA reaffirms its dedication to contributing constructively to the global effort to combat plastic pollution, stop plastics leakage and achieve a more sustainable future. •

Plastics

SAAFFI celebrates 2023 course graduates

On 7 May, a group gathered in the Atrium at Firmenich South Africa’s offices in Midrand, to celebrate the graduation of the students who completed the SAAFFI-Wits Course in Flavour & Fragrance Technology during 2023.

The course is held annually at Wits University School of Chemistry with the option to complete the course online. It comprises 12 lectures and three practical sessions.

Second year Applied Chemistry students at Wits are eligible for the SAAFFI-Wits Course in Flavour & Fragrance Technology, and it is open to interested members of the flavour, fragrance and FMCG industries. While it is a South African-based course, students from as far as Chile in South America have participated.

GRATITUDE AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The flavour and fragrance industry is a little-known industry – and yet it touches our lives from the moment we wake up to when we go to sleep, enhancing products from air fresheners to zaatar-flavoured snacks.

"The graduating students spoke of the value of this course"

The graduating students – seven from Wits university and 16 from the industry –spoke of the value of the course and how it has inspired them to build their career in this fascinating industry.

Words of welcome and thanks were offered to Shimadzu for their generous annual sponsorship; Mike Capon and Sensetek for their sponsorship of student prizes; Dr Maya Makatini, coursecoordinator for the programme and the entire Wits School of Chemistry for their support and partnership; Firmenich for the use of the venue; lecturers who dedicate their time to this course pro

bono; facilitators of the practical sessions; the SAAFFI management committee; and employers who pay for their employees to enrol and give them the time needed to complete the course.

Guests invited by the graduates – including parents, spouses, family, friends and even children of a graduate – displayed a sense of pride in their ‘person’ for his/her excellent achievement.

A DELIGHTFUL CELEBRATION

The programme for the evening included a welcome from Sharon Bolel, executive director of SAAFFI; encouraging words and good wishes form Dr Karina Rogers, chairperson of the SAAFFI management committee; congratulations from Prof Charles de Koning,

head of Wits School of Chemistry and a delightful speech on behalf of the students, given by Keegan Capito, a graduating student.

After the certificates were presented, prizes sponsored by Sensetek were presented to the top Wits graduating student, Malvanique Kaiser and the overall top graduating student, Geeta Bhoola.

The evening was concluded in a celebratory mood with delicious refreshments and enjoyable networking.

For more information about the 2024 course, please send an email to sharon@saaffi.co.za or visit the SAAFFI website. •

SAAFFI – www.saaffi.co.za

1. Mike Capon, Marc vom Emde (senior perfumer, Symrise), and Dr Gerhard Niemand 2. The graduating group 3. Keegan Capito, who spoke on behalf of the graduating students 4. Top students, Geeta Bhoola and Malvanique Kaiser 5. Prof Charles de Koning

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