May 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 5
www.pharmacos.co.za
The era of anti-ageing is over! Highlights from in-cosmetics Global ORAL SOLID DOSAGE A preferred route for pharma products
TechnoVative Personal Care Applications
Connecting Global Competence
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U2
TU
RE4
NE3 TW
O4
03
AL2
B2
analytica Lab Africa 2019 Next-level lab technologies
July 9-11, 2019 Johannesburg Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand
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Discover the latest trends, techniques and equipment in the world of analysis, biotechnology and diagnostics Messe München brings the internationally renowned analytica cluster to South Africa in 2019, with the acquisition of Lab Africa, the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa. Visit analytica Lab Africa for: • The latest laboratory equipment and analysis solutions by over 100 exhibitors • Thought leadership across the food and drink, chemical, pharmaceutical, medical, agriculture, water and waste sectors • Access to refresher courses and demonstrations • Networking with up to 6,000 stakeholders across related sectors
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
May 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 5
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
SAHPRA awards first Cannabis cultivation license
Vantage to acquire Textron
Series of awards for Imperial Logistics
Airless dispenser from RPC Bramlage
11 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s new in South Africa
14 EVENTS
KR
This year's in-cosmetics highlights at your fingertips
A review of the innovations from IMCD
20 ANTI-AGEING
Diversity in beauty celebrated in Paris 40 PERSONAL CARE
New speciality silica from Evonik
Use Omyacare to boost soap foam
Natural xylitol ester for deodorants
The synergies of Remancos and Bottle Printers
44 MATERIALS HANDLING
New actives for healthy, beautiful skin
Increase skin’s luminosity with Dawnergy peptide
& WAREHOUSING
Millchem’s cork oak and coconut complex
What’s hot at SAPICS 2019?
Award-winning InstaMask from Vantage
Ensure FMD compliance with Zetes
Ingredients to fight reactive oxygen species
Beat ‘tech neck’ wrinkles with The Care Co.
46 INDUSTRY TALK
A true Retinol alternative from Unicare
Reasons to join the Consumer Goods and Services Ombud
32 CARTON & BOARD
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS
Redesign your profits with Clomark
33 PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS
Taste masking in chewable tablets
Manufacture pellets using a continuous process
Technology for Falsified Medicines Directive compliance
14
Latest news from Plastics|SA and the HPA
36
A continuous process from powder to pellet
45
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti
Never cease to develop your network
A
lthough not everyone is keen on
and it’s highly evident in our section on
networking, there’s something
anti-ageing. On page 20 you can read
incredibly powerful about having
about active ingredients that support and
a strong professional network
enhance healthy skin, the newest products
Contributors: Florian Bang, Elena Cañadas, Thorsten Cech, Raquel Delgado, Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Jacques Strydom, Marine Vincendet ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za
in your career or your industry. I’ll be dead
on the market based on the skin microbiome,
honest, it’s not my favourite pastime but
ingredients to fight reactive oxygen species
Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
I’ve learnt networking is key to establish
and an energising active that combats the
INTERNATIONAL SALES
and nurture long-term, mutually beneficial
negative effects a busy lifestyle can have on
relationships with the people I meet.
the skin’s appearance.
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
My networking cup overflowed in Paris this
Oral solid dosage forms take centre
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
year at in-cosmetics Global. The exhibition
stage in our pharma focus on page 33. In
brought together over 800 international
this edition you can read about the results
exhibitors of ingredients, fragrances, lab
of an investigation by BASF’s European
equipment, testing and regulatory solutions
pharma application lab to evaluate poly
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
with over 10 000 cosmetics manufacturers
(vinyl acetate) as a suitable taste masking
CIRCULATION
worldwide. I saw so many familiar faces at the
polymer for paracetamol. Glatt’s new
show from the South African personal care
pelletising system for continuous extrusion,
industry and got the opportunity to reconnect
which incorporates three previously separate
with many of my international contacts, whom
processes in one machine.
I mostly deal with on e-mail. These powerful
We also introduce the Consumer Goods
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za
connections are central to the success of
and Services Ombud (CGSO) to you on
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review just
page 46. Should your brand or business be
as the connections between suppliers and
faced with a consumer complaint, the CGSO
Art Director: David Kyslinger
manufacturers ensure their sustained success.
is here to assist by providing an alternative
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
If you didn’t get a chance to attend in-
dispute resolution service. Together with the
cosmetics this year, we have included an
Consumer Protection Act, the CGSO seeks
extensive show review in this edition. Turn
to promote fairness, openness and good
to page 14 now to find out which suppliers
business practices between suppliers of
won awards, whose new ingredients are
goods and services and consumers.
truly innovative, and which local ingredient producers featured on the South African
Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd MANAGEMENT TEAM
Enjoy the read!
MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
pavilion sponsored by the Department of
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
Trade & Industry.
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
There is no doubt the pro-ageing revolution has arrived. The cosmetics industry is
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone
gradually leaving behind the era of perfect,
HEAD OF HR: Camillah West
wrinkle free skin with beauty vocabulary
CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson
being more pro skin health and pro longevity
HEAD OFFICE
than ever before. We saw this at in-cosmetics
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
NEWS
ADCOCK INGRAM SAYS YES TO CURB YOUTH UNEMPLOYMENT YES graduates with Madelein Roos, Adcock Ingram’s group learning & development manager; Andy Hall, Adcock Ingram CEO; Basadi Letsoalo; Dorette Neethling, Adcock Ingram’s CFO; Dr Thato Matshaba and Tracey Czakan, a Yes4Youth consultant
leaders. Listening to our graduates, we believe they are gaining valuable skills and knowledge and have really embraced the culture of the organisation. The YES initiative is built on a sustainable model and I would encourage other companies in South Africa to become part of this legacy,’ said Basadi Letsoalo, Adcock Ingram’s executive director: human capital & transformation. Dr Tashmia Ismail-Saville, YES chief executive, commented: ‘Adcock Ingram was one of the first companies to partner with YES on investing in jobs for the youth THE YOUTH EMPLOYMENT Service (YES) and
Since November 2018, Adcock Ingram
and making a real difference in the lives of
Adcock Ingram established a partnership
has provided workplace experiences for
young people. We are grateful for its trust
when both organisations pledged to
132 graduates. In April 2019, YES graduates
and pioneering attitude.’
support President Ramaphosa’s vision.
were recognised for their commitment
This was to create one million jobs for
to the programme. Adcock Ingram
LinkedIn, YES youth are trained on how
unemployed youth within three years.
hosted a commemorative event at its
to build a professional profile on the
head office with all the YES graduates
world’s largest professional networking
between business, government and labour,
and representatives of YES; Dr Thato
site. Host companies are able to track the
focussing on tackling the challenges of
Matshaba, director of HIV prevention
performance of their youth through the YES
youth employability. To date it has created
programmes of the national department
supervisor app, which provides real-time
over 16 000 work experiences. What sets
of health; representatives of the Chemical
data gathering as well as insights on the
this initiative apart is that it is recognised
Industries Education & Training Authority;
success of the work placements.
by local and international researchers,
YES graduate mentors and the executive
academics and business professionals as
committee of Adcock Ingram.
YES, launched in 2018, is a partnership
one of the most innovative programmes of its kind.
Licensed Cannabis cultivation at House of Hemp, based in KwaZulu-Natal
Through the YES partnership with
To find out more about YES, visit www. yes4youth.co.za, or follow the initiative
‘We are truly honoured to have partnered with YES. The youth of today are tomorrow’s
on social media, on LinkedIn, Twitter or Facebook.
AFRIPLEX ALIGNED WITH PRIZED CANNABIS CULTIVATION LICENSE A growing body of medical research, both locally
more general ailments like pain, inflammation,
and globally, points to the recognition of cannabis
appetite stimulation, sleep quality, nausea
– and especially CBD use – for patients needing
and asthma.
to manage diseases like cancer (and the side
With the current global market value for
effects of chemotherapy), epilepsy and seizures,
medicinal cannabis estimated at USD8.28 billion
post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), glaucoma,
– and expected to reach USD27 billion by 2024,
dementia, Alzheimer’s, autism, fibromyalgia and a
the medical cannabis industry holds formidable
range of auto-immune diseases.
economic development potential for South Africa.
SAHPRA’s granting of the license sets in
‘Afriplex and our strategic partner, House of
HOUSE OF HEMP, a strategic partner of Afriplex, has
motion a process that will eventually see
Hemp, are extremely honoured to be associated with
received its Cannabis cultivation license from the
the standardisation and proper scientific
the first Cannabis License from SAHPRA,’ says Danie
South African Health Products Regulatory Authority
formulation, dosage requirements and
Nel, Afriplex CEO. ‘The teams have worked tirelessly
(SAHPRA). This is a historical milestone for South
combinations of cannabinoids for medical
over the last seven years to ensure we meet local
Africa to become an active and innovative player
purposes. It not only offers the opportunity to
standards and the legislative requirements and
in the budding cannabis market. It also marks a
improve the lives of patients with life-challenging
quality standards of international markets. Being
positive move forward by SAHPRA to encourage
conditions in a safe and effective way, but
the first in South Africa to receive this accreditation
the development of the medical cannabis and
also to enhance the general wellbeing of a
enables us to actively pursue expansion into the
cannabidiol (CBD) sector.
larger community of patients struggling with
global cannabis market.’
6
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
NEWS
Beauty festival rocks Sandton Convention Centre ON 6 AND 7 April, the first ever Festival was an Instagram and beauty festival in Africa, Beauty shopping heaven, yet its focus lies in Revolution Festival took place creating a strong platform for beauty in Johannesburg at Sandton with a purpose, daring to care for all Convention Centre. shades and shapes in between. The two-day festival gave guests the You can be a part of the revolution chance to shop some of the world’s by following @beautyrevolution_za biggest brands in beauty, lifestyle on Instagram or by connecting with and personal care and provided a the organisers on their website, www. playground for the country’s hottest beautyrevolution.co.za. influencers, media and content creators to flourish. On Sunday, 7 April 1 Johannesburg’s queen of rap Nadia Nakai featured on the main stage to perform hit songs to the few thousand guests in attendance. Beauty Revolution Festival was also filled with meaningful discussions by powerhouse panellists ThickLeeYonce, Pearl Thusi and 2 Leanne Dlamini while intimate makeup artist masterclasses featured Mihlali Ndamase, Marco Louis and Rushana Isaacs. Deemed an annual event, Beauty Revolution
3
1: A makeup masterclass at the Beauty Revolution Festival 2: The first ever Beauty Revolution Festival 3: An aerial view of the expo floor
+27 (0)11 553 2300
THE VERTICALLY INTEGRATED provider of naturally derived ingredients has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Textron Plimon Natural Oils Business (Textron). Textron is a leading manufacturer, processor and specialty formulator of natural oils for the personal care, food and chemical industries. Located near Barcelona in Granollers, Spain, Textron operates out of a state of the art manufacturing facility, which sources oils and seeds worldwide. Its product portfolio includes cosmetics oils, formulations of Evoils, food oils, bismuth derivatives, cosmetics ingredients and preservatives. As part of the transaction, Textron will supplement its Spanish distribution business (Plimon), which will remain with the prior ownership group and continue distributing products for Textron. ‘The acquisition of Textron supports our commitment to strategically grow and expand the value we bring our customers in natural oils. This strategic combination builds on Vantage’s existing leadership position in jojoba oil. It also establishes Vantage and Textron as premier providers of natural oils to broaden and complement our speciality ingredient solutions for evolving trends in personal care and food,’ comments Andy Harris, CEO of Vantage. ‘This is an exceptional combination of people and natural products, which will provide significant benefits for both companies and most importantly our customers,’ says Martin Lascorz, owner and CEO of Textron, who will continue to work with the combined entities. ‘With the support from Vantage, Textron is well positioned to meet the growing needs of customers and to continue to bring expanded opportunities to employees. We are delighted to be a part of the Vantage family.’ Textron’s world-class production facility and focus on vegetable oils is a natural fit with Vantage’s current portfolio. Serge Rogasik, senior VP of Vantage’s Personal Care business, adds, ‘The acquisition will create a global leader in the increasingly demanding world of traceable and sustainable natural oils for personal care. It will also allow us to better serve the evermore stringent sourcing needs of our combined customer base.’ Textron is the fourth add-on acquisition Vantage has completed since H.I.G. acquired the Company in October 2017. The transaction is expected to close by June.
International subject expert
25 170 ISO
REGISTER ONLINE www.microsep.co.za/DI
VANTAGE SIGNS DEAL TO ACQUIRE TEXTRON
11 nnex A U E
CT: 18 July 2019 The River Club Registration closes 10 July 2019
11 part R F 21 C
Data
e urat
Acc
+ OA ALC
JHB: 15/16 July 2019 Emperors Palace PE: 17 July 2019 Elizabeth Place
Dr. Bob McDowall
ple Com
DATA INTEGRITY SEMINAR 2019 P C Review | MAY 2019 |
7
NEWS
IMPERIAL LOGISTICS named among ‘Companies
to Inspire Africa’ THE LONDON STOCK Exchange Group has recognised Imperial Logistics’ healthcare business in Nigeria, Worldwide Healthcare, as one of the 2019 ‘Companies to Inspire Africa’. This is one of several accolades recently bestowed on Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division. Johan Truter, CEO of Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division, notes Worldwide Healthcare’s proud position on the London Stock Exchange Group’s Companies to Inspire Africa Report is a tribute to the hard work of the entire Worldwide Healthcare team. ‘Making it on to this prestigious list of Africa’s most inspirational high growth businesses is a significant accomplishment in the current challenging market conditions. It is the result of stellar efforts of the leadership and all the employees at Worldwide Healthcare.’ London Stock Exchange Group is a British-based stock exchange and financial information company. This year marked the second edition of its Companies to Inspire Africa Report, published in collaboration with PricewaterhouseCoopers, African Development Bank Group, the UK’s development finance institution CDC Group and research partner, Asoko Insight.
‘We publish this report as it is our belief these firms are crucial to the future of the African economy and capable of driving transformative economic growth in their home countries and beyond,’ explains London Stock Exchange Group CEO, David Schwimmer. Other recent accolades garnered by Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division include a Distributor of the Year award for its pharmaceutical distributor business in Kenya. Truter comments: ‘Surgipharm has been named Distributor of the Year in Anglophone Africa by the global health and hygiene company, Essity.’ In another achievement in East Africa, the Kenya Revenue Authority presented Imperial Logistics’ Managed Solutions business with a top taxpayer’s award. ‘This annual award recognises businesses for exemplary tax compliance. We were very honoured to have the trophy presented by the President of the Republic of Kenya, His Excellency Honourable Uhuru Kenyatta, to Imperial Managed Solutions’ East Africa finance director Martin Mbugua,’ Truter comments.
FAST AND ACCURATE UV/ VIS SPECTROPHOTOMETRY METTLER TOLEDO’S UV/VIS Excellence instruments are suitable for a wide range of applications. They are equipped with predefined methods for pharma, chemical, food and beverage as well as life sciences and biotechnology industries. Enjoy easy operation with the One Click user interface and flexible operation on the standalone instrument, or with LabX 2019 software. Performance verification is conveniently automated with the CertiRef module and completed within a few minutes.
The UV5Nano spectrophotometer combines two instruments in one for micro-volume (DNA, RNA, protein work) and cuvette based measurements
8
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
UV/VIS Excellence instruments offer an array based spectrophotometer with long lasting xenon flash lamp to deliver a spectrum scan over the complete wavelength range within seconds and without warm-up time. FastTrack technology speeds up UV/VIS measurements significantly. Within seconds, the UV/VIS spectrophotometers measure colour in transmittance in multiple colour scales and numbers. Spectra and colour can be measured simultaneously. The most common colour scales supported are CIE L*a*b* and Luv, Tristimulus, Lab according to Hunter, Chromaticity (x, y), APHA, Pt/Co, Hazen, Yellowness Index, Saybolt, Gardner, EBC, ASBC and Hess-Ives. The combination of predefined methods and InMotion sample changers automate the analysis of up to 303 spectrophotometric samples. The samples are transferred to the instrument with a peristaltic pump and measured in a flow-through cell, providing the user with a fully automated workflow, including the cleaning steps. The CuveT thermostat accurately regulates the temperature of samples within a range of four to 95°C in 10mm cuvettes, typically required for temperature sensitive analysis and kinetics studies. LabX 2019 software creates a secure lab data integrity solution. It allows for complete customisation of UV/VIS workstations to the workflow in the lab and supports compliance with regulations such as 21 CFR Pt 11.
President of the Republic of Kenya, Uhuru Kenyatta presents the award for exemplary tax compliance in 2018 to Martin Mbugua, finance director of Imperial Managed Solutions for East Africa Recoginition of Worldwide Healthcare, an Imperial Logistics company, inclusion in the London Stock Exchange’s 2019 Companies to Inspire Africa Report
Sorbet launches aesthetics concept store THE SORBET GROUP has launched a cosmetically advanced brand and future-forward space for skin, Sorbet SK-N. Designed as an elegant, exclusive store that offers premium skin treatments for tired, ageing or damaged skin, Sorbet SK-N specialises in advanced cosmetic treatments for dermatological concerns with rapid and significant results. Globally recognised brands, such as Exuviance, Visia and Dr. Schrammek are flagship products in this new concept store, which also offers a broad variety of peels, botox, laser technology, Dermapen applications and laser hair removal treatments. ‘We are incredibly excited about the opening of Sorbet SK-N, our first aesthetics store in Johannesburg. We sincerely believe in beautiful skin, no matter your age or life history. This is a first for Sorbet and we are anticipating a positive response,’ says Sorbet Group, marketing manager, Sapna Naran. Off the back of 15 year’s successful growth, the Sorbet Group has shown remarkable innovation with its brother and sister brands like Sorbet Man, Sorbet Drybar and Candi & Co. Today, it’s still dubbed one of South Africa’s best loved brands for positive grooming journeys. ‘We want that Sorbet feeling to continue at Sorbet SK-N, for the more discerning guest who demands more from their skin and their timelines. With world class treatments, exclusive products and genuine care and support from our skin care experts, we are confident Sorbet SK-N will deliver the right “feels”, for the right clientele,’ adds Naran.
The Sami-Sabinsa Group’s Nelamangala biotechnology site
NEWS
The World’s No. 1 Trade Fair for Plastics and Rubber
USP GMP STATUS AWARDED TO SABINSA’S BIOTECH SITE THE SAMI-SABINSA Group’s Nelamangala biotechnology site in Bengaluru, India has been audited by the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) and received a GMP compliance certificate. This recognises the GMP quality systems in operation at the site which meet requirements established in 21 CFR Part 117 Current Good Manufacturing Practice, Hazard Analysis and Risk-Based Preventive Controls for Human Food, and USP-NF General Chapter 2 750 Manufacturing Practices for Dietary Supplements for Dietary Ingredient Manufacturing. Sabinsa’s probiotics, enzyme blends and supercritical fluid extractions of various botanicals are produced at this site. Dr Muhammed Majeed, Sabinsa founder, comments: ‘While we always encourage customers to visit us in India and see our five manufacturing facilities for themselves, we realise it’s not possible for everyone. Participating in the USP GMP audit programme is another way we can assure customers of our steadfast commitment to producing quality ingredients. Our other facilities are scheduled
o f
for USP auditing in the near future.’ John Atwater, senior director of USP Verification Services, adds: ‘USP is pleased to recognise Sabinsa’s successful completion of the USP quality systems GMP audit programme for this site. This demonstrates Sabinsa’s commitment
H o m e I n n o v a t i o n . K 2 0 1 9
to quality and to operating GMP quality systems for the manufacture of dietary ingredients in compliance with officially recognised requirements.’ USP’s GMP audit programme helps dietary ingredient manufacturers reduce risks and ensure compliance with GMP requirements. It also provides them with a way to differentiate and qualify their manufacturing facilities and operations in an increasingly competitive global market. The programme includes annual audits of a manufacturing site’s quality systems compliance with GMPs. Having received recognition from USP, Sabinsa earned a USP quality systems GMP audited certificate and it has been added to USP’s website www.usp.org/verification-services/gmp-audit-program, a resource for finished product manufacturers to identify ingredient manufacturers that have earned the right to use the USP audited good manufacturing practices mark.
No matter what your focus is – circular economy, digitalisation, Industry 4.0,
PRESTIGE AIRLESS DISPENSER
lightweight
construction,
manufacturing,
advanced
additive materials
or other forward-looking topics in the A TWIST UP airless dispenser from the RPC Bramlage division gives the desired shelf appeal to one of Italy’s top-selling and long-established skin care brands. BioNike Defence Man Energise revitalising cream-gel and Defence Man Repower anti-ageing serum are packaged in the 50mℓ Twist Up. The two- tone decoration, with Bordeaux red at the base merging with black at the top, is silkscreen printed with shaded lacquering to create a distinctive and high-quality finish, which reflects the prestige nature of the products. The airless technology of the Twist Up packaging helps to protect the natural ingredients used to formulate the cream-gel and serum, maintaining their efficacy throughout the self-life of the products. Twist Up technology works by turning the upper part of the dispenser to reveal the dispensing head. The dispenser offers consistent controlled dosing and hygienic application of the creams and closes in the ‘down’ position to protect the contents. A clicking sound adds to the consumer’s experience by confirming the dispenser has been opened and closed properly. The overall pack mimics the appearance of a conventional over-capped dispenser, complementing and creating a family look with other products in the range.
global plastics and rubber industry – K 2 019 i s t h e p l a c e t o b e t o s c o u t f o r new solutions. The fascinating forum for innovation and investment. The industry’s most important business platform. Around 3,200 international exhibitors
offer
you
the
latest
in
r e s e a r c h a n d d e v e l o p m e n t . We l c o m e to the show! www.k -online.com/ticketing
Southern African – German Chamber of Commerce and Industry NPC 47 Oxford Road _ Forest Town, Johannesburg P.O. Box 87078 _ Houghton 2041 Tel. +27 (0)11 486 2775 _ Fax +27 (0)86 675 21 75 tradefairs@germanchamber.co.za
www.germanchamber.co.za
kmd1902_IV_88,5x262+3_ZA.indd 1
| 9 15:43 P C Review | MAY 2019 17.04.19
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KZN Industrial Technology Expo 2019 24 to 26 July Durban Expo Centre, KZN www.kznindustrial.co.za
Cosmoprof North America
28 to 30 July Mandala Bay Convention Centre, USA
August Plastics, Printing, Packaging Africa 2019 1 to 3 August Kenyatta International Convention Centre, Kenya www.expogr.com/kenyappp
Coschem Ladies Day
14 August Avianto, Muldersdrift, Gauteng
STREET 1 1 Juice for you skin Cold Pressed Skin is part of the new generation of consumers, living in an age where the words ‘health’ and ‘conscious’ are used together rather than separately. These consumers already integrate plant-based juicing into their daily routines. Inspired by nature and happy skin, the Skin Co combined science and superfoods to create a sustainable, plant-based superfood skin care range, consisting of face and body care products.
2 Sculpt your curves! New from optiphi, Body Curve Sculpting Repair targets the underlying causes of cellulite. This results-driven skin rejuvenating treatment supports the reduction of stubborn fat deposits by increasing the intercellular energy, while tightening and firming the tissue. The
3
treatment-based body product is formulated with novel actives and extracts, including Plankton Extract, Plasma Rich Rockbreaker Plant Cell Factor, Retinol to address sun damage and the visible signs of ageing, as well as Hesperidin and Soya Isoflavone.
3 A splash of carrot and tea tree
Earthsap face washes are free from preservatives,
2
petrochemicals, synthetic fragrances, dyes and SLS. There are two variants, Earthsap Garden Carrot Face Wash and Earthsap Tea Tree Face Wash, and their ingredients are biodegradable and eco-friendly. Earthsap products are sold online via Wellness Warehouse and Faithful to Nature, in health shops nationwide and in selected Spars and Pick n Pays.
4 Beautiful, like the rain Rain Skincare makes its international skin care debut with a new collection of multi-ethnic natural face care products. The range harnesses the power of wild harvested African botanicals integrated with probiotics to maintain skin health. The products were launched in South Africa, Ireland and the USA in April. Th range includes natural cleansers, toners, serums and creams suitable for every step of the consumer’s daily skincare regime. The products are naturally fragranced with essential oils and specially formulated to maintain and support the natural structure of the skin.
4 P C Review | MAY 2019 |
11
COMPANY FOCUS
H&R Africa’s secrets of superior service
Since the global group was launched 100 years ago, H&R has maximised the quality of its customer service to differentiate the organisation from its competition. H&R Africa’s recipe for success is no different – quality customer service is the currency that keeps the company moving. raw materials from all over the world. Managing financial indices is also a key requirement for manufacturers, which do not have the benefit of an import/ export balance of payments. As a result, it’s becoming more and more complex to service the personal care industry. Fortunately for organisations such as H&R Africa, decades of experience and expertise enable the company to produce
H&R Africa has enjoyed great organic growth with its customers
sustainable business results and maintain a ‘value-adding and reliable supplier’ position in the industry.
Challenging times Recent years have seen local personal care brand owners and manufacturers face increasing competition from imported finished products. This trend has evolved from the demands placed on manufacturers to produce low cost products whilst having to maintain consistent quality to counter the
A
challenges of South Africa’s economic ccording to H&R Africa,
instability. These challenges include
the South African personal
an increasing unemployment rate,
care manufacturing
rising inflation costs and a decline
industry is characterised
in personal disposable income. The
by a number of manufacturers and
latter has had a significant impact on
suppliers, spread across well-known and
the average consumer’s spend and
trusted multinationals to independent,
consumers’ spending behaviour
owner-operated companies. The
in general.
pool of manufacturers appears to be
Product placement has also led to
facing similar challenges, ranging
increased competition in the market
from statutory, quality and systems
with major South African retailers,
compliance to the ever-evolving pursuit
making it relatively difficult for a
of a low-cost competitive advantage.
number of SMEs. As a result, most SMEs are exploring export opportunities
Value-adding and reliable Operationally, supply chain is a vital
12
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
through independent supermarkets. H&R Africa is also seeing interesting
factor to the personal care industry
movements among multinationals,
due to the complexities of importing
with several key players expanding
COMPANY FOCUS
The H&R Africa team based in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal
The H&R Africa team based at Mobeni, in KwaZulu-Natal
into African countries. Various
plants and technical capabilities.
acquisitions of known brands have
H&R Africa has enjoyed
also occurred to diversify and strengthen the position of multinational companies in emerging markets. Multinationals may be adopting these strategies in pursuit of driving down the costs of products to reach unfamiliar markets, or to raise quality standards within a
great organic growth with
DID YOU KNOW?
its customers which has prompted the company to invest
H&R Africa has launched a in new capacities. generic grade of Petroleum These investments Jelly, aimed at servicing a are aimed at wider range of applications at servicing existing a relatively low cost. Please connect with a H&R Africa and new business business manager to enquire in the African and about this product and Middle East regions. its benefits.
given market.
SUSTAINABILITY AND BIO-NATURAL SOLUTIONS
Other important
factors contributing to the industry’s resilience are
H&R Africa recognises the importance of sustainability and the need for conserving our planet. Through its Techno-Vative projects, the company has developed a range of non-fossil based raw materials for personal care applications. These bio-natural products offer enhanced performance for customer-specific applications and are derived from renewable plant-based sources. Considerable uptake of these bio-natural products has mainly been in Europe, North America and parts of Asia. While there is great interest in these products and their value to sustainability, throughout Africa, there has been
Market ready solutions
technology and innovation. These
Consumers’ dwindling brand
factors are seeing manufacturers
loyalty is a reality for premium
shifting from selling off the shelf
brands as more and more
products to customer-specific
consumers are leaning towards
solutions, ensuring raw materials
become extensions to existing product lines
perceivably cheaper products.
and final products always meet
instead of replacements.
There is also a growing demand
the functional and aesthetic
a slow start to their uptake due to the high costs associated with using them as replacements or alternatives to fossil-based products. Yet great opportunities exist if these bio-natural products
H&R Africa will continue to invest in renewable,
for personal care products that
requirements of customers and
plant-based raw materials because the company
cater to distinctive demographics
end consumers.
strongly believes the African market will eventually
and climates. These trends have
As a supplier of raw materials
accept change. In the next couple of years, it should be in a position to afford such bio-
seen various brand owners and
for the personal care industry,
manufacturers introducing niche
H&R Africa has responded
private brands to bridge the
to manufacturers’ demands
gaps where larger, major players
for cost-effective products.
have been slow at meeting
The company does this by
and to enable quicker order filling.
these demands.
continuously managing the costs
This requires great lengths of flexibility
of raw materials to ensure they
in terms of sourcing and production
A resilient industry
are reduced to sufficient levels.
planning. It necessitates all role players
South Africa’s personal care
This enables H&R Africa to offer
in the organisation to operate at the
industry has proven to be quite
competitive pricing to its customers
highest levels of agility in pursuit of
resilient, despite challenging
and to ensure it maintains its
delighting its customers.•
economic times. Positive growth
current market position.
is still expected in the mid to
natural products.
H&R Africa continues to engage
long term range, due to new
in diversified strategic sourcing to
investments in manufacturing
ensure the availability of products
H&R Africa – sasales@hur.com
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
13
Diversity in beauty celebrated in Paris In-cosmetics Global welcomed more than 12 000 visitors through its doors from 2 to 4 April as the trade show made a return to Paris, France – its spiritual home.
E
vident in the indie trail, innovation
topics. The themed days are part of the
zone, sustainability corner and
new initiatives launched by the organiser,
formulation challenge, this year’s
Specialised Exhibitions Montgomery.
show reflected the dynamic beauty
Another new initiative is the Seminar Theatre,
market and the shift towards embracing diversity. Implementing sustainable practices
taking place in Hall 7. Packaging for the future, packaging 4.0,
was also a key theme at in-cosmetics Global
top consumer trends, Africa insights, an
2019, where organisers engaged visitors with
overview of the South African packaging
the great variety of new aspects to the show.
market, barriers to recycling plastics waste,
In-cosmetics also saw the launch of the
the new dimension in digital printing,
inaugural Global Beauty Day on 3 April to
and packaging design versus product
bring together beauty brands from all over
information are some of the seminar topics
the world to honour diversity in beauty.
available to visitors.
The move aims to celebrate inclusivity as
The new themed days will see day
changing consumer demands force R&D
one focusing on new products; two will
professionals and manufacturers to think
centre on sustainability; three will put the
outside the box.
spotlight on skills development; and day
In line with the diversity in beauty theme,
four will be a ‘local is lekker’ day where
three round-table discussions took place
the South African Propak Africa brand
to foster open discussions among industry
and local manufacturers and products
professionals on:
will be celebrated.
• lifestyle choices such as vegan, halal, allnatural and environmentally friendly
SOUTH AFRICAN PAVILION SPONSORED BY THE Department of Trade and Industry, Zuplex Botanicals, Herbs-Aplenty, Everpix African Oils and Ayanda African Oils featured on the South African pavilion at incosmetics Global 2019
• LGBTQ+ identity, exploring beyond the gender boundaries
Spotlight on R&D The demand for beauty products continues to grow despite economic instability. The
• skin types and colours.
global cosmetics market is expected to
Each conversation explored the way
garner US$429.8 billion by 2022, registering
consumer choices are influencing the
a CAGR of 4.3 percent during the forecast
development of cosmetic products from
period 2016 to 2022, according to Allied
ingredients to marketing.
Market Research. Mintel lists the key trends
As the inaugural Global Beauty Day was
driving growth as personalisation, digital,
a resounding success, it will return annually
naturals and marketing campaigns that
on the second day of the show, to get under
draw on a brand’s ‘personality’.
the skin of topical issues with the industry’s leading forward thinkers.
In-cosmetics Global offered the perfect platform to inform R&D professionals about these trends and inspire new thinking
14
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
New initiatives
around them, with a packed itinerary of
For the first time ever, Propak Africa will offer
must-attend sessions and show areas.
daily, free to attend seminars. These will be
One of these features was the R&D Tours,
presented by expert speakers with content
which took in major show features such
aligned to the show’s ‘four days, four themes’
as the Innovation Zone and Sensory Bar
TWO GOLDS FOR VYTRUS
A SOUTH AFRICAN IN PARIS Marcel van Rooyen, sales director: South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa, Symrise cosmetic ingredient division with Delia Greeff of Skin Rejuvenation Technologies
Delia Greeff, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies’ professional brand
The Spanish producer of active ingredients, Vytrus Biotech was awarded the Gold Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient Award and the Gold Green Award at in-cosmetics Global 2019. The company also received a
executive, attended in-
CosmeticsDesign Beauty Industry
cosmetics Global as the
Award in the category Best Use of
winner of the 2018
an Ingredient (Quora Nori PRCF)
P C Review /Symrise
in a Finished Product (Serum
New Product Competition.
Perfect Touch).
Her experience on the exhibition was ‘mind-
The Gold Innovation Zone Best
blowing’! ‘The exhibition was well organised,
Ingredient Award was bestowed
exhibitors were insightful and offered so many
on Vytrus’ new active ingredient,
new innovative active ingredients, technologies
Olea Vitae. Vytrus’ ingredient was
and delivery systems,’ says Greeff. ‘I attended
chosen among 14 finalists for
exciting marketing trends workshops and technical
combining innovative science,
seminars, live demonstrations at many of the
and product features in a way
exhibitor stands and I went on a guided R&D tour.
that demonstrates substantial
I met the most interesting and passionate people and their local suppliers and left the threeday exhibition with an overload of information. I am so proud to be part of this brilliant industry,
The Vytrus Biotech team photographed at the 2019 Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards
striving to provide consumers with the safest and
cosmetics industry. This category of
most effective cosmetics.’
brands saw a 659 percent increase
Greeff extended a massive thank you to Symrise for sponsoring this experience.
in retail volume in 2017, illustrating its popularity and importance. In-cosmetics produced the Indie Trail
benefits to manufacturers and end-users when compared to existing ingredients. Olea Vitae is a powerful revitaliser of mature skin. It fights energetic ageing using a new mechanism of action – stimulation of the mitochondrial synapses. The active is produced using plant stem cells of Mediterranean wild olive tree sprouts and an exclusive technology, which extracts the essence of the lipids from the plant cell membrane to obtain Phyto-Lipidic Fractions (PLF). This ‘cellular oil’ replicates the
Aimed. The tours were aimed specifically
Guide to help indie developers connect
activity of cellular lipids, protects and optimises the energy
at R&D professionals and led by leading
with suppliers willing to provide smaller
of skin’s cells, and increases the production of structural
technical consultant and international
ingredient quantities to suit production
proteins to revive the skin.
cosmetics chemist, Rouah Al-Wakeel.
volumes up to 100kg. The time-saving
Each tour introduced formulators to select
guide helped small brands navigate the
exhibitor stands relevant to the tour topic,
show to forge important connections with
which included:
relevant exhibitors.
1. protection sponsored by IMCD 2. healthy ageing sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry Group 3. preservation sponsored by Symrise.
Indie trail and sustainability corner
With sustainability ranking high up in consumer thinking – and likewise feeding
for Sarcoslim Re-Shape, launched during 2018, which introduces the concept of lipo-sculpting. It is produced from Sarcocapnos crassifolia, a plant found south of the Iberian Peninsula which is close to extinction. Through Vytrus’ sustainable plant biotechnology programme, the company
sponsored by Cargill, featured 20 pods of
has established a conservation project of the plant species
sustainable ingredients, or supply chain
in collaboration with the University of Jaen.
on the environment.
increasingly influential in the global
difference in the area of sustainability. Vytrus won the award
into R&D – the sustainability corner,
projects, which have had a positive effect
Pioneering indie brands have become
The Gold Green Award at in-cosmetics is given to an ingredient that makes a significant environmental or social
Toshihiko Shimoda, technology scout, R&D at Beiersdorf, comments:
These three awards come at a perfect time as the company is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. They also recognise the innovative spirit and excellence of Vytrus, which believes cosmetics should not only be innovative, effective and safe, but also eco-conscious and sustainable.
Partnerships though Innovation Suppliers of
Active pharmaceutical ingredients Exipients Natural extracts Anti microbials & disinfectants Natural additives with claims
Rheology modifiers Haircare actives Surfactants Stearates Acids & bases Water treatment products Technical back up Innovation offerings
Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 | East London (043) 726 8713 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981 BETTER TOGETHER
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
15
of the cosmetics industry. I was a big fan
Omya’s natural ingredients with added value
of the sustainability corner. I liked the
Omya Consumer Goods,
layout and concept as a whole. It’s great
represented by CJP
in-cosmetics is clearly addressing the
Chemicals, focused on
issue of sustainability.’
Omyaskin minerals for
‘Sustainability is the most important part
Green ingredients from Symrise
decorative applications. The unique
Symrise presented new cosmetics
composition of these
ingredients, SymReboot L19, SymLite G8,
pure, bright minerals
three oils from the African continent and
originating in Provence
SymHair Shape & Color, emphasising its
(France), and their high
sustainable approach.
porosity and large surface
‘Today, many consumers choose
belief that sustainable beauty is all about skin health and nutrition. The first two actives co-
DID YOU KNOW?
developed with Sytheon as well as three new
plant-based ingredients In-cosmetics Global 2019 brought together over 800 were promoted at international exhibitors in-cosmetics. These and representatives from 10 products focus on 000 cosmetics brands and manufacturers worldwide. improving sensorial The exhibition will be back benefits combining in 2020 in Barcelona, Spain, from 31 March hydration, smooth to 2 April. and lasting protection for
area, allows for enhanced textures
both hair and skin, and offer
cosmetics produced in an environmentally
and upgraded effectiveness
moisturising and skin barrier
and resource friendly way. These properties
in various applications. The
repair benefits.
are an important principle for our product
ingredient offers maximum
development,’ says Dr Daniel Ibarra, vice
absorbency qualities, strong
president EAME at Symrise. ‘We have been
opacity for perfect coverage and
Seppic’s new body care collection
following this sustainable path for many
leaves a pleasant skin feel.
According to Seppic, consumers are
years and can therefore supply suitable
For skin care formulations,
becoming more demanding of body
cosmetic ingredients.’ With SymReboot L19, Symrise presents
Omyacare natural calcium
a probiotics-based cosmetic ingredient,
various sizes and exterior structures
opening new perspectives for the care of
to suit multiple purposes.
sensitive skin. Made from sustainably sourced raw
care products, so the company
carbonate particles are available in
The flexibility of Omyaskin minerals and Omyacare natural calcium
materials, SymLite G8 naturally enhances
carbonate was demonstrated
the skin caring effect of cosmetics while
in applications such as lipsticks,
improving their shelf life. It naturally
foundations, eye shadows, body
supports the product protection system,
lotions and soap bars.
strengthens the skin barrier and, as a coemulsifier, helps to stabilise oil-inwater emulsions. Symrise’s African Oil Collection is also
Roquette and Sytheon partnership Roquette, represented locally by
brand new and includes organic Baobab-
Orkila South Africa, unveiled a new
oil from Tanzania, Cosmos-certified
direction in its ambitious strategy.
Moringa-oil from Kenya und Organic
The company is expanding Beauté
has launched a Body’licious
Tamanu-oil from Madagascar.
by Roquette – its specialised
collection in line with the latest
high-performing, natural-based
industry trends. With these eight
ingredients portfolio for cosmetics
formulations, brands will be able to
– which is made possible through
take consumers on a sensorial and
At in-cosmetics, Delfin revealed its
its strategic partnership with
inspiring journey. Hydration is the first
expanded product range as a global
Sytheon. Ingredients in this
functional claim in body care.
Aurora skin imaging technology
distributor of the Aurora. The Aurora is a superior imager for extensive facial skin analysis and for recommending
portfolio include a plant-based microbiota-balancing
Consumers expect fresh textures that dry quickly and fit easily into
active, a plant-based
their morning routine. Seppic has
water-soluble film
developed a fresh body yoghurt,
forming agent and
which is a food-inspired,
skin care products
Cosmos approved
97.6 percent biodegradable
at the point of
plant-based
emulsion. It contains Emogreen
sale. Cosmetics
humectants and
L15 to provide excellent glide
brands, aesthetic
texturisers.
during application and a
clinics, spas and pharmacies would benefit from the Aurora by providing information on the effects of treatments
The partnership enables Roquette Beauté to benefit from a network of expertise. Fully in line with Roquette’s
powdery-soft finish. The pleasant yoghurt jelly texture is obtained with a combination of agar agar and Sepimax Zen. Aquaxyl and Equibiome provide hydration
over time, ultimately to keep their
positioning and growth strategy,
and restore balance to the
clients loyal.
the move springs from Roquette’s
skin microbiota. •
16
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
Launched a new product in 2018/19
Make a
Statement about it
2019
New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y . V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 2 8 1
IMCD has the perfect solution for you Launched at in-cosmetics Global, IMCD South Africa’s principals offer innovative solutions to help brand owners and manufacturers produce sustainable, high quality and eco-friendly hair, skin and personal care products.
CLR’s adaptogenic approach to skin health
Get hot hair with Ashland With the new Advantage Revive polymer, Ashland brings a
Obtained from an edible South American fruit, Annona
much needed refresher to the dry shampoo category. The
cherimola, AnnonaSense CLR from CLR Berlin is proven to
polymer is based on a unique polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
establish a sustainable homeostatic balance in the skin. This
chemistry process. It leaves hair feeling cleaner and looking
highly effective and sustainable active ingredient activates the
shinier with enhanced lustre to match the appearance of freshly
CB2 receptor, supporting the body’s endocannabinoid system
washed hair. Advantage Revive can be used in aerosol and
(ECS). Inflammatory processes induced by the TRPV1 receptor,
non-aerosol dry shampoo applications.
part of the skin’s endovanilloid system (EVS), are reduced and a stable balance is established between ECS and EVS. Skin is less sensitive and more balanced with AnnonaSense
Ashland hair care team is also commemorating PVP’s 80th anniversary, celebrating the evolution of hair styles from the ’50s until today. It has created unique styling formulas that allow
CLR; even itchiness could perceivably be reduced. It also
consumers to re-create the classic ‘rockabilly’ look of the ’50s
improves the appearance of the skin, while a consumer
with a smooth control wax featuring AquaStyle 300 N, the mod
study showed the perception of well-being and quality of life
styles of the ’60s with Styleze 2000 polymer and the rocker hair of
were improved.
the ’80s with Styleze CC-10 polymer.
Expanded Belsil line from Wacker With its two new silicone resins, Belsil B 110 and Belsil R 220, Wacker is tapping into trends for controlling the reflective properties of skin, colour cosmetics and hair. In day creams and foundations, the spherical particles of Belsil B 110 silicone resin fill out wrinkles or skin imperfections, creating an even skin appearance. They also scatter light to provide a matte finish. Belsil R 220 is a film-forming silicone resin designed for use in nail varnishes. It has a high refractive index resulting in a high gloss, water-resistant surface. Wacker has also launched the new gum blend Belsil eco GB 1020, which is based on biomethanol. The gum blend acts as a conditioning agent to combat split ends. It can be formulated in hair masks and conditioners and is suitable for skin care applications, particularly skin softening lotions.
Grant Industries’ SiAPP elastomers There are many types of silicone-based ingredients, which Grant Industries says should not all be classified in the same way. For example, silicone reactive intermediates are very different from silicone elastomer polymers and silicone cyclic and linear fluids. Featuring the combined benefits of nature and science, Grant Industries’ new SiAPP elastomer series provides formulators with enhanced compatibility of organic materials such as natural oils, butters and esters while maintaining the unique sensory characteristics, performance and skin safety imparted by silicones. Offered in a range of volatile and non-volatile alkane fluids, all SiAPP elastomers are globally compliant, vegan friendly and unrelated to any palm or RSPO issues. The SiAPP elastomer series consists of four high performing materials: Gransil GVL-LITE; Gransil GVL-912, Gransil OGH and Gransil SUG.
18
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
VI ASPETTIAM O IN-COSMETIC S 2019
STAND E80
Resta al passo con le tendenze, fatti guidare dai nostri esperti e fai risplendere le tue formulazioni! Unisciti a noi ad InCosmetics 2019.
Resta al passo con le tendenze, fatti guidare dai Keep up with the trends, guided by our experts nostri espertiyour e faiformulations risplendere le tue formulazioni! and make shine! Unisciti a noi ad InCosmetics 2019. Thank you for joining us at InCosmetics 2019. SPA T:E:ana.dacosta@imcdsa.co.za +39 02 557091 E: info@imcd.it IMCD SA T:IMCD 011ITALIA 2932000 www.imcdgroup.com
ANTI-AGEING
Healthy skin is beautiful skin COSMETIC JAR RANGE
Though skin care brands still sell the idea of trying to look younger, anti-ageing vocabulary has changed drastically over the past few years. Abby Vorster looks at how the healthy skin care trend and pro-ageing are impacting new ingredients on the market.
The rare honey bee, Apis mellifera mellifera
S
kin care brands have become markedly pro ageing. Instead of promising to reverse the signs of ageing – which they had been doing for ages – brands have shifted from anti-ageing messaging to focus more on skin health, sensitive skin issues and on ‘loving the skin
you’re in’. The latter is a worldwide movement in the skin care industry to help consumers feel good about their skin, ultimately building their confidence. According to Mintel, sensitive skin affects half of all women across the globe and is causing more consumers to seek out gentler products that restore the skin’s natural barrier and deliver relief from irritation. Mintel’s global beauty and skin care analyst, Jo Lawlor, says consumers are looking for ‘hero’ ingredients to soothe their sensitive skin conditions. These include rosacea and eczema, which trigger emotional purchases and play a big role in pricing and shopping habits. Black BeeOme from Mibelle Biochemistry, represented locally by Carst & Walker, is an elixir obtained by fermenting the honey of the rare and ancient honey bee species, Apis mellifera mellifera. The active is designed for the recovery of the individual skin microflora after stress which results in healthy, clear and pure skin. Under normal conditions, the micro-biotic film protects the skin from harmful bacteria or pathogens. This film is constantly stressed by UV light, pollution, household chemicals, and cosmetics products or treatments. Frequent washing of the skin, for example, can reduce and unbalance the skin’s ecosystem.
10/11 TradeHouse, 2 Mzimkhulu Dr, TradeZone, Dube TradePort, La Mercy, KZN, South Africa, 4409 www.teqal.co.za Sean Kirkham Marketing Director +27 (0) 82 469 1894
The honey of an extremely resistant and dark bee, produced in isolated Swiss mountain valleys, is fermented with the bacteria Zymomonas mobilis. The fermentation process eliminates glucose, fructose and sucrose in the honey. The remaining long-chain sugars stabilise and promote the individual microflora of the skin, giving Black BeeOme its prebiotic effect. This effect is beneficial to restore the skin’s natural microbiota following daily stress.
20
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
ANTI-AGEING
Red seaweed, Asparagopsis armata
such as Glabridin. This is a natural extract of
protects young cells from senescence
promotes faster regeneration of the skin
the liquorice root, Glycyrrhiza glabra. It has
induced by the senescence messaging
flora after washing as well as restoration
a long history of traditional use and recently
secretome (SMS).
of the skin barrier. After a single 15 minute
attracted considerable attention in skin
application of a sheet mask formulated with
care. Even at low concentrations, Glabridin
in accelerate ageing, visible in wrinkle
Black BeeOme, volunteers living in urban,
promotes an even complexion and lightens
formation and a loss in skin’s firmness.
polluted locations noted a significant
pigmentation spots quickly and effectively.
Ageing generates senescent cells, which are
Studies have shown Black BeeOme
improvement of impure skin.
In its untreated form, Glabridin powder
Exposure to constant stress results
affected by functional and morphological
has poor solubility, both in oil and water,
modifications. These senescent cells release
Encapsulated Glabridin
and its industrial use is expensive because
SMS, which affects young neighbouring
Whitening or lightening in the context of skin
of its poor penetration. These challenges
cells, accelerating their ageing process. This
care has different connotations from one
make Glabridin dependent on a carrier
process is called ‘contagious ageing’.
continent to another. There is no universal
system in order to benefit fully from its
definition of the perfect whitening product
lightening effects. With the BergaBright
to reduce the contagious ageing effect on
for the end consumer, yet the market is
SmartLipids Glabridin, Berg + Schmidt has
young cells. By feeding on Asparagopsis
massive worldwide. Lightening or even
developed a lipid-encapsulated format that
armata, which contains mycosporine-like
tone skin care agents must be safe while
ensures a high degree of bioavailability.
amino acids (MAA), sea hares (marine
being effective.
The encapsulation also enables the active
animals) develop an intraspecific alarm
substance to penetrate deeper into the
through chemical communication based
Schmidt is a range of advanced whitening
skin and protects the Glabridin against
on MAA. Using a bio-inspired approach,
agents, which meet market requirements
degradation over a long period.
Seppic investigated whether the MAA might
BergaBright SmartLipids from Berg +
Aspar’age regulates the impact of SMS
also provide a skin benefit in the regulation
in terms of safety and efficacy while being easy to incorporate into a formulation. With these innovations, Berg + Schmidt,
Contagious ageing
of cell-to-cell communication.
Through wesource, Seppic’s dedicated
To assess the efficacy of Aspar’age,
represented locally by Afrisil, applies a
brand for actives, the company presents
Seppic developed a new in vitro evaluation
patented process for the encapsulation
Aspar’age. This active ingredient extracted
model. The results showed Aspar’age
of active ingredients or natural lighteners,
from red seaweed, Asparagopsis armata,
is able to protect young cells from
©Unsplash
Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za
©Unsplash
wesourcebeauty.com
wesourcebeauty.com
ADIPOSLIM™
RHODYSTEROL™ S TG
ADIPOLESS™
SCULPTOSANE™
™ ™ S TG ADIPOSLIM RHODYSTEROL Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!
ADIPOLESS™
SCULPTOSANE™
Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
21
ANTI-AGEING senescence induced by SMS, offering the
Sinerga offers a complete range
solution to reduce contagious ageing. The
of personal care specialties, most of
that counteracts wrinkles and signs
active also contributes to improving the
them of natural origin or derived from
of ageing caused by daily stress. Its
skin’s appearance.
vegetables. Its more than 50 in house
rapid de-stressing action is said to be
cosmetics specialties are characterised
perceivable after seven days’ use in a
Development in Life Sciences, mentions:
by proven safety, efficacy and excellent
skin care product. Dolcevia is a natural
‘Bibliographic review has shown the
skin compatibility.
derivative suitable for anti-stress creams,
Catherine Kern, PhD, Innovation &
emergence of a new concept on
Its Hydrolysed Pea Protein is
Dolcevia is a pure active ingredient
mature skin care formulations and
contagious ageing where the senescent
characterised by the presence of fractions
cells were able to affect young cells
of hydrolysed proteins with different
by SMS. This knowledge inspired us
molecular weights. These work in synergy
Ahnfeltiopsis concinna, has proven
to propose the development of a
to achieve a complete protective and
film-forming, hydrating, softening and
new model of evaluation.’ Seppic is
moisturising activity that improves skin
moisturising benefits. Thanks to its high
represented throughout southern Africa
firmness and elasticity. Thanks to their
concentration of carrageenan, Red Alga
by CJP Chemicals.
ability to restore the skin’s integrity and
Gel performs a protective action on the
increase its water content, pea proteins
cutaneous layer to restore natural skin
Introducing Sinerga
improve skin’s elasticity by performing a
conditions. It also provides a fresh touch
Chempure has received a new agency
lifting and anti-ageing effect.
to skin care formulations and is suitable
agreement from Sinerga, subsequent
Azeloglicina is an active ingredient
to a very successful trip to Paris to
designed to illuminate the complexion.
attend in-cosmetics Global. Sinerga is
Thanks to its properties, it inhibits melanin
a contract manufacturer and cosmetic
synthesis and reduces cutaneous
ingredients supplier for the cosmetics
sebum production. It also improves skin
and dermo-pharmaceutical industries.
radiance, evenness, cutaneous elasticity
The company’s headquarters are based
and hydration. This active ingredient
in Italy, with branches in France, the USA
is suitable for greasy, seborrhoeic and
and Asia-Pacific.
dehydrated skin types.
green cosmetics. Red Alga Gel, an extract of
for personal care products. •
Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Chempure – www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za
THE MUST ATTEND Home and Personal Care Ingredients Exhibition South Africa 04 – 05 SEPT 2019 | MIDRAND | RSA www.hpci-events.com/south-africa
IN CONJUNCTION WITH
>> gives brands and manufacturers exclusive access to all services required for product development
>> brings together suppliers from every point of the production chain >> shows new product ideas
ORGANISED BY:
Picture Credits: © edwardderule, Victoria, mimacz / Fotolia.com
| MAY 2019 | P 22 HPCI-SA19-Ad-PRINT.indd
1
C Review
18.04.19 17:10
ANTI-AGEING
Get radiant skin first thing in the morning Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Marine Vincendet and Raquel Delgado of Lipotec Active Ingredients have found a way
D
to combat the negative effects a busy lifestyle can have on the skin's appearance.
awnergy peptide, distributed in
JARID1a and clock genes were measured
the normal levels occurring in the
South Africa by Savannah Fine
at 07h30 and 11h30. At 07h30, with the
late morning without any treatment
Chemicals, is an energising
peptide treatment, protein levels of JARID1a
(see Figure 2).
and anti-ageing active to
resembled the levels obtained in the control
help awaken skin’s cells in the morning. It targets JARID1a, a protein that activates
at 11h30 (see Figure 1). Consistent with the fact that JARID1a drives
Less signs of fatigue Two skin features associated with
the cell biological clock and regulates
the activity of the internal cellular clock in
biological rhythms and the appearance
circadian rhythms.
the morning, an increase in the expression of
of a tired complexion were analysed in a
Per3 at 07h30 was also observed, reaching
clinical study. The cutaneous blood flow
levels observed at 11h30 in the control.
was assessed by image analysis, whereas
Even after sleeping well, consumers can present complexion problems in the early morning. Skin’s appearance varies
eyebags’ volume was assessed by real
throughout the day, reflecting circadian
Mitochondrial revitalisation
rhythms, such as the barrier function (with
Dermal fibroblasts were treated with
optimum levels around noontime), hydration
Dawnergy peptide and the mitochondrial
treatment, microcirculation was found to
(lower early in the day compared to noon)
membrane potential determined by
increase by 2.1 percent while eyebags
or microcirculation (with low morning rates).
means of a dye-mediated detection
decreased by 9.7 percent from the early
Circadian rhythms are controlled by clock
assay. Treatment with the active ingredient
morning to four hours later.
genes, whose expression pattern fluctuates.
increased the membrane potential, which
During the day, CLOCK and BMAL promote
is linked to an enhanced mitochondrial
the volunteers applied an active cream
the expression of PER and CRY, among other
function and ATP synthesis.
each morning for seven days. They had
circadian proteins. PER and CRY regulate
3D microtopography. In normal conditions, without any
To test the effect of Dawnergy peptide,
dinner together and a party and slept
their own expression at night, creating a
Better prepared skin
that night for four hours only. The next
loop that generates 24-hour oscillations.
Human 3D skin models were synchronised
morning, measurements performed
by temperature cycles and left untreated
after they awoke revealed a 7.0 percent
of histones in DNA, activates CLOCK and
(control) or incubated with Dawnergy
increase in microcirculation, which is
BMAL to enhance the expression of Per
peptide. Skin models were analysed for
essential to provide oxygen and nutrients
clock genes1. JARID1a is like a molecular
hydration at different times throughout
to skin cells, and a 16.9 percent reduction
switch that activates cells every morning.
the day by means of capacitance, and
in the volume of eyebags compared to
It has been shown to regulate genes
for ceramide levels by means of ultrahigh
the same time at the beginning of the
related to mitochondrial function. It can
performance liquid chromatography-
study (seven days earlier).
control mitochondrial activity and the
mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS).
JARID1a, through epigenetic modification
ability to produce ATP through oxidative phosphorylation, offering cell energisation2.
Accelerating the cellular Human keratinocytes were synchronised to
Treatment with the active ingredient led
Skin radiance and rejuvenation
to a 10 percent increase in hydration at
In an additional in vivo evaluation, female
07h30 compared to the control measured
volunteers aged between 31 and 46 were
at the same time of the day.
split into two groups. One group applied
The levels of ceramides increased by
a cream with the active ingredient in the
day-night rhythms by temperature changes
47.6 percent with the peptide treatment
morning, and a placebo cream at night.
and treated with Dawnergy peptide.
in skin analysed at 07h30, resembling
The second group applied a placebo
Figure 1: Levels of JARID1a protein (left) and clock gene Per3 (right) (*p<0.05, **p<0.01 and ****p<0.0001 versus the control at 07h30
24
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
ANTI-AGEING Figure 2: Hydration levels and percentage of ceramides in synchronised skin models at various times of the day (*p<0.05 and ****p<0.0001 versus the control at 07h30
cream both in the morning and at night. Skin luminosity (L*) was determined by analysis of macrophotographs of the face and luminosity software was used to visualise the range of L* values in a colour map. Skin roughness was determined by image analysis.
visibility of crow’s feet wrinkles decreased by
Figure 3: Skin luminosity maps of one volunteer, before and after treatment
15.4 percent after 28 days of treatment. • REFERENCES 1. DiTacchio L, Le HD, Vollmers C, Hatori M et al. Histone lysine demethylase JARID1a activates CLOCK-BMAL1 and influences the circadian clock. Science. 30;333(6051):1881-5, 2011. 2. Liu X, Secombe J. The Histone Demethylase KDM5 Activates
After 28 days of applying the cream formulated with the peptide, the luminosity parameter increased by 3.5 percent, indicating skin could reflect more light and presented a more radiant appearance (see Figure 3). The coefficient of the
Gene Expression by Recognising Chromatin Context through Its PHD Reader Motif. Cell Rep. 13(10):2219-31, 2015.
Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.Lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
Radiant skin first thing in the morning
Advances the skin functions activation for a glowing radiant appearance even despite lack of sleep
Sin título-1 1
15/04/2019 16:11:41
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
25
ANTI-AGEING
Natural shield against ‘inflamm-ageing’ It can be challenging to effectively fight the signs of ageing in sensitive and reactive skin. With the unique and highly protective complex from Hallstar, Diam Oléoactif, it’s now possible to formulate anti-ageing treatments for sensitive skins.
T
hree main factors are
showed it provides a natural shield
responsible for the symptoms
against ‘inflamm-ageing’, part of the
experienced by people
ageing process characterised by
with sensitive, reactive or
chronic, low grade inflammation.
intolerant skin: • an alteration of the stratum corneum responsible for intense dehydration • oxidative stress associated with the
Cork oak and coconut complex Diam Bouchage, a French
overproduction of free radicals
manufacturer of wine closures,
• chronic overproduction of cytokines
• reinforcement of the barrier function • improvement of the membrane fluidity • moisturising power • free radical scavenger • protection against oxidative stress.
patented a green chemistry process 12 years ago, which utilises the properties
unique ability to penetrate the skin
Different preventive and soothing
of compressed carbon dioxide to
and are perfectly safe for all skin types,
mechanisms must be associated to
extract olfactory compounds of cork
including the most sensitive.
reduce skin discomfort, tightness and
taint in wine. The anti-inflammatory
redness, whilst maintaining hydration
properties of cork molecules are highly
an eco-designed, 100 percent natural
and nourishment deep within the skin.
sought after in the cosmetics industry.
and organic active ingredient that
(inflammatory proteins).
Diam Oléoactif, available in South
In parallel, Oleos – a Hallstar
The end result was Diam Oléoactif,
fights ‘inflamm-ageing’. It is suitable
Africa from Millchem, effectively
company – studied the prospects of
for a wide variety of sensitive and
combines active ingredients of cork
the cosmetics valorisation of cork oak
reactive skin care applications for
oak and coconut to create a unique
and developed an oily extract using
anti-ageing and protective and
and highly protective complex for
its patented Oléo-éco-extraction
soothing treatments. •
sensitive and reactive skin. Tests have
process and virgin coconut oil, which
demonstrated the double anti-
is rich in medium chain triglycerides
inflammatory and anti-free radical
(MCTs). In addition to their high
efficacy of Diam Oléoactif. Results
stability, MCTs have a
A UNIQUE APPROACH TO ANTI-INFLAMM’AGING WITH DIAM OLÉOACTIF® Prevents and soothes skin redness. Millchem, through our agency Hallstar, brings you Diam Oléoactif® an active lipid complex, which is 100% natural and organic, derived from cork oak and the coconut palm through a patented Oléo-éco-extraction process. Anti-aging Soothing Care
Sensitive Skin Care Protective Care
Anti-redness Care Redensifying Care
Email giulio@millchem.co.za for further information. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za
26
FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF DIAM OLÉOACTIF:
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
ANTI-AGEING
Go social with InstaMask
What if you could customise a mask to suit consumers’ exact skin care needs? With InstaMask from Vantage you can take your brand from mainstream to personalised in a cost-effective and efficient manner.
T
he face mask experience has
to mix powders. The colour of
become a social one with social
the product comes from the
media platforms playing a great
coloured clays used so no
role in the growing popularity of
added colorants are needed.
the category. InstaMask offers a perfect solution for brand owners looking to gain more traction online, as consumers are
Versatile and easy to use
more likely to share images of surprising
InstaMask granules are hard,
and unique products.
but when water is added at a
InstaMask is an innovative, all in one
DID YOU KNOW?
Long lasting benefits To demonstrate the versatility of InstaMask, Vantage
Because InstaMask developed a product granules are dry, no platform using ancillary preservatives are formulations or boosters. needed, allowing for InstaMask Shale contains a ‘preservative free’ claim. a green clay rich in zinc and copper, as well as vitamin C
1:1 ratio, the granules hydrate and
and aloe vera. Clinical testing of
clay mask bead technology that transforms
soften, becoming a soft paste for easy
InstaMask Shale showed it reduces
into an easy to use clay mask when mixed
application on the face.
sebum and increases skin elasticity,
with water. It was launched at in-cosmetics
If applied to the skin before fully
while the combination of vitamin C
hydrated, they could provide gentle
and aloe vera reinforces the activity
exfoliation. They also function as a
of the clay to provide the short- and
required clays, actives and thickeners – all
customisable delivery system, delivering
long-term skin benefits of hydration
the user needs to do is add water or an
and protecting active ingredients. This
and an enhanced complexion. •
aqueous booster to end up with a perfect,
is ideal for actives that have traditionally
freshly made clay mask. The granular form
been difficult to formulate with as the
provides an exciting visual and user-friendly
granules don’t require stability in a
experience without the mess of having
traditional product form.
Global 2019. Each InstaMask granule contains the
Vantage – kim@lipo.co.za
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
27
ANTI-AGEING
What’s my age again? Reactive oxygen species is a major cause of skin ageing. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at ChemSystems, highlights two skin care actives proven to protect mature skin against free radical harm.
S
ince the 1900s, the global
as pollution and sunlight,
average life expectancy has
which have a significant
more than doubled, and is
impact on the condition
now approaching 70 years.
of the skin.
By 2050, the number of people over
Free radicals,
DID YOU KNOW?
selective ROS before damage is incurred. Its non-self-sacrificing
Life expectancy is rising around the globe. As of 2017, 23 percent of the global population (1.7 billion people), is over 50 years old, according to Euromonitor.
mechanism ensures its enhanced efficiency,
the age of 65 years is expected to
specifically reactive
double worldwide. Because people
oxygen species (ROS),
are living longer, consumers’ desire to
are a mechanism of
be healthier is growing. Healthy living
skin ageing. ROS can
is no longer a sub-culture; it’s become
have a negative effect on
a prominent part of mainstream living
biological macromolecules,
and is evident across all industries,
resulting in a reduction of collagen
including skin care.
synthesis in the skin, which leads to
of wrinkles
Beauty industry language is moving away from fighting the signs of ageing to focus on looking and feeling good at any age
premature ageing.
• promotes skin radiance
The narrative of ageing is also changing, with beauty industry
when compared to common antioxidants on the market. AgeCap Smooth offers three main skin
care benefits: • softens the appearance
• delivers a skin smoothing effect.
AgeCap Smooth
Evidence of these benefits is
ChemSystems strives to offer
supported by compelling in vitro
solutions to protect skin from
and in vivo clinical data. A double-
external aggressors, such as sun
blind randomised in vivo study was
and pollution. The cosmetics active
conducted over a period of 84 days
ingredient AgeCap Smooth from
involving 100 female panellists,
Dow is a ‘weapon’ designed to help
ranging in age from 45 to 65. As a
consumers protect their skin and
benchmark, a range of ingredients
keep it healthy as they age.
were studied, including AgeCap
In most conventional antioxidants,
Smooth, Retinol, stabilised Vitamin C
language moving away from fighting
the compounds destructively act
the signs of ageing to focus on looking
upon free radicals by means of a
and feeling good at any age. As a
chemical reaction to convert the
Smooth demonstrated an ability
result, skin needs to be protected
ROS to water. The unique antioxidant
to reduce wrinkle appearance,
during exposure to external factors such
activity of AgeCap Smooth traps
with statistical significance over the
28
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
and a placebo. Test results revealed AgeCap
ANTI-AGEING placebo. This effect was already
statistically significant difference.
carrot root extract, carrot seed oil and
visible after 28 days and more
AgeCap Smooth also showed
ß-carotene, all united in a basis
significantly after 56 days, according
a greater skin radiance than
of canola oil to provide perfectly
to the data points, whereas the effect
Retinol, yet the difference was not
stabilised carotenoids.
with Retinol is typically only evident
statistically significant.
Carotolino shows efficacy in:
after 84 days.
• shielding blue light
Carotolino botanical active
• neutralising blue light-induced ROS
perceivable in a decrease in skin
Natural and artificial blue light are
• supporting a healthy and vivid
roughness. AgeCap Smooth used
known to damage the skin and induce
skin colour.
in conjunction with Vitamin C
premature ageing. Nature’s answer
exhibits a statistically significant
to blue light protection is carotenoids,
the best properties carrots have to
smoothing effect versus a placebo,
which shield blue light and protect
offer, including stabilised carotenoids.
The skin smoothing effect was
whereas Retinol has shown some effects without statistical significance. Overall skin radiance was
against the induced oxidative stress. Besides the photoprotective activity, topically applied carotenoids can
The botanical active incorporates
Carotolino reduces blue light-induced skin damage while adding a vivid look to the skin, making this a trendy ingredient that synergistically targets the protection and liveliness of skin.
improved with
optimise skin colour,
all ingredients
shifting pale and
efficacy, Carotolino was named a finalist
tested, but
dull skin tones to
in the 2019 in-cosmetics global Innovation
with different
livelier tones.
Zone Best Ingredient Awards. •
magnitude. After
New from
84 days, AgeCap Smooth showed a greater radiance
ChemSystems’ technology partner, Lipoid Kosmetik,
than Vitamin C and
Carotolino is based on
the placebo, with a
a unique combination of
Due to its unique design and proven
ChemSystems – www.chemsystems.co.za Dow – www.dow.com Lipoid Kosmetik – www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
29
ANTI-AGEING
How to fight ‘tech neck wrinkles’
Smartphones and electronic devices can be far worse for our skin than we realise. Consumers aged between 18 and 39, who have an average of three digital devices and peer at their screens up to 150 times a day, are believed to be accelerating the natural loss of the elasticity of their skin.
W
74 percent of the panel noted the skin on their neck was firmer
ith accelerated smartphone usage, consumers have developed new habits, modifying their behaviour
and posture, giving rise to new ageing markers. The term ‘tech neck’ was coined a few years ago to define the modification of the posture of the human body, and more
of wrinkle treatment for the Y-Zone. To
the skin on their neck was firmer (versus
recently, ‘text neck wrinkles’, which defines a
address this growing trend, the company
45 percent using the placebo) and
new zone calling for anti-ageing treatment –
has crafted Agefinity, a powerful youth
84 percent felt convinced by the effect of
the Y-Zone.
activator that recharges the energy of their
the product at the end of the trial (versus
skin to fight wrinkles. The Care Co. is
60 percent using the placebo).
Head down, consumers spend an average of two hours a day on social media
the South African agent for Givaudan Active Beauty.
and surfing the internet. The
A solution in a serum To inspire the beauty industry, Givaudan
result is an increase in the sign of
The active ingredient is
wrinkles on a specific area of the
a mannose-6-Phosphate
Active Beauty’s formulation experts crafted
skin, on the lower face and neck.
complex based on a vegetal
a powerful anti-ageing serum, S3D Mystic.
This part of the body is defined as
source and green chemistry
the Y-Zone, which is set to become
to replenish cells’ energy. With
blended with an extract of the Rose of
one of the most requested areas
multiple anti-ageing benefits,
Jericho, also known as the resurrection
of treatment for wrinkles.
Agefinity can significantly
plant, and diamond powder. This serum
reduce visible age spots (a
quickly penetrates the skin, leaving a light
A powerful active ingredient
reduction up to 2.1 times more
floral scent post application, while Agefinity
efficient), neck (-32.5 percent)
brings a solution for consumers of all
With over 65.8 percent of
and crow’s feet (-11.5 percent).
beauty brands who seek to win the battle
cellphone users worldwide,
It has also shown to remodel
of using their smartphones daily.•
including 35.8 percent
the Y-shape of the face and
smartphone users, Givaudan
reorganise the skin matrix to be
Active Beauty is already working
similar to younger skin. A total of
to provide a reliable source
74 percent of the panel noted
47.Digest of Ingredients Careco_®C.indd 1
30
47.Digest of Ingredients Careco_®C.indd 1
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
47.Digest of Ingredients Careco_®C.indd 1
Featuring Agefinity, S3D Mystic is
Givaudan Active Beauty – www.givaudan.com The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za
2018/02/01 3:12 PM
2018/02/01 3:12 PM
2018/02/01 3:12 PM
ANTI-AGEING
A true Retinol alternative
The results of an independent study show Sytheon’s Bakuchiol, Sytenol A is as effective as Retinol, yet it doesn’t have any of the drawbacks of the world’s most popular antiageing ingredient. As a natural alternative to Retinol, Bakuchiol offers much better skin tolerance and the absence of phototoxicity.
W
hile Retinol is still the gold standard
DID YOU KNOW?
for antiageing skin
creams or anti-acne treatments, Bakuchiol has generated a lot of attention in women’s magazines and was
antibacterial and mitochondrial protection properties from oxidative stress.
Bakuchiol can be used during the day thanks to its excellent photostability and it’s an excellent stabiliser of retinol in photo-oxidative as well as singlet oxygen environments.
in particular on the retinoid binding and metabolising genes.
Similar yet different
Effective and multifunctional
Despite having no
UC-Davis Dermatologists carried out a
structural resemblance to
randomised, double-blind clinical study on
retinoids, Sytenol A works
Sytenol A and Retinol. The results showed
as a functional analogue
listed by Mintel among
of Retinol. Bakuchiol has
the trendiest skin care
several substantial advantages
ingredients in 2019.
large majority of genes (almost 23 000),
Sytenol A matches the established benefits of retinol. It was demonstrated that both compounds significantly decreased wrinkle
over Retinol, including excellent
surface area and hyperpigmentation,
photochemical and hydrolytic stability
with no statistical difference between the
by Unicare Ingredients, offers a
and a good safety profile. It is also easier
compounds. Yet the retinol users reported
high purity Bakuchiol meroterpene
to formulate with due to its miscibility
more facial skin scaling and stinging. The
with a wide variety of emollients
authors concluded Sytenol A is comparable
and solubilisers.
to retinol in its ability to improve photo-
Sytheon, represented locally
phenol extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. Sytenol A provides superior
In vitro, comparative volcano plots
ageing and it is better tolerated than retinol.1
skin care benefits
of Sytenol A and Retinol show dramatic
both for anti-ageing
similarities in gene expression profiles of
strategy targeting several factors responsible
the two compounds, indicating similar
for acne, including sebum production and
functional analogy. Sytenol A has a
its integrity, overpopulation of bacteria,
retinoic activity demonstrated on a
inflammation and hyper-keratinisation. It has
and anti-acne applications. It also offers broad action
Sytenol A also offers a multi-tasking
antioxidant,
been clinically proven to reduce the severity
anti-inflammatory,
of acne by about 57 percent when used on its own at one percent in a formulation, or in combination with two percent salicylic acid, where it contributed to a 70 percent reduction in acne lesions. • REFERENCES 1. Dhaliwal et al, British J Dermatology, 2018 Jun 27. doi: 10.1111/ bjd.16918
Sytheon – www.sytheonltd.com Unicare Ingredients – www.unicare.co.za
Exclusive distributors for Sytheon – inspiring and innovative speciality ingredients Exclusive distributors for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics and Southern Cross Botanicals – inspiring and innovative speciality ingredients!
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
31
CARTON & BOARD
Redesign your profits with Clomark
Brands need to be more creative in their packaging design. Shyam Chirkoot, Clomark MD, says you only have a few seconds to capture consumers’ fleeting glances.
C
onsumers subconsciously
possible. Intelligent die trace designing
QR codes may be inserted to provide more
gauge the quality of a product
results in creative carton shapes, which
product information via a web page.’
from the look, feel and design of
provide their own appeal on shelf, standing
the packaging. Their choice of
apart from the competition.
product is largely determined by the impact of the packaging. Clomark recommends and assists clients in the design aspect of folding
Ensure brand confidence
The company also assists customers with
With the rise in counterfeit products,
artwork design. Clomark has its own studio
consistency in packaging is key. Even a slight
for high resolution photography and offers
colour variation could create the impression
editing services.
that a product is not genuine. Clomark’s
cartons. The thickness of board is largely
diverse product lines of cartons, self-
determined by the mass and size of the
Invested in the future
adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, sachets and
contents, whilst considering consumer
To meet customers’ needs for shorter
wrappers, all manufactured at one facility,
appeal. The company uses a wide
lead times, Chirkoot says Clomark
assist to establish colour consistency across
variety of paper and board of various
has made capital investments into
line extensions and brand ranges.
constructions and properties.
post printing processes that were previously
With the global focus on reducing the impact of packaging on the environment, Clomark designs cartons as small as
outsourced.
‘We are also equipped to incorporate personalised holographic security features
‘This also give us the capability to
into packaging designs. Including tamper
add special effects such as embossing,
evident properties also stimulates consumer
varnishing and foiling to further enhance
confidence in the brand and reduces
consumer appeal. Embossing and spot
related customer risks,’ Chirkoot concludes. •
effects can be used to include braille on packaging to promote products in this market,’ he explains. ‘We also assist in designing and printing packaging inserts.
Clomark – www.clomark.com
“Manufacturers of self adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, folding cartons, sachets & wrappers.”
32
Telephone
Website
quotes@clomark.com
011-314 5444
www.clomark.com
ISO 9001: 2015
Level 1 B-BBEE
ISO 14001: 2015
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms
Mask the taste of paracetamol in a chewable tablet
BASF’s pharma solutions team evaluated poly(vinyl acetate) as a taste masking polymer for paracetamol and its subsequent formulation in a chewable tablet. Florian Bang and Thorsten Cech of BASF’s European pharma application lab share the results of their research.
O
rally disintegrating tablets (ODTs) are a popular dosage
proper coating process (good
Table 1: Glatt GPCG 3.1 processing parameters and settings
form. To allow instant and
Parameter
fast disintegration, various
Product bowl volume
flowability and fluidisation of
Setting
API), the addition of fumed silica 5L
was required.
formulation aspects need to be reflected
Batch size (uncoated)
(e.g. binder and disintegrant).1, 2 Masking
Nozzle orifice / position
1.0mm/1
evidence showed a coating
the inconvenient taste of an active
Spray rate
20g/min
level of about 20 percent is
pharmaceutical ingredient (API) is a
Atomisation air pressure
crucial facet of formulation development to
Inlet air temperature
eventually gain patient compliance. Yet the
Inlet air quantity
total tablet mass, resulting in a high API dose
Product temperature
870g
2.5 bar 60°C 70 to 100m³/h 30 to 40°C
and potentially applied taste masking (e.g. coating), can lead to difficulties in obtaining the required ODT features. A single dose of paracetamol can be as high as 500mg. This is why formulated paracetamol easily exceeds the US FDA recommendation for the maximum mass of an ODT.3
Materials and methods Paracetamol (Acetaminophen) fine powder
In organoleptic testing,
needed to gain a convenient taste. When exceeding the coating level by about 50 percent, the entire surface area is covered with poly(vinyl
Table 2: Quantitative formulation of the chewable tablets
Excipient
acetate) (see Figure 2) and the bitterness of paracetamol is fully
Quantity
Coated paracetamol
42.1%
Filling material
35.7%
Kollidon CL-SF
20.0%
Sucralose
1.0%
Strawberry flavour
0.5%
Menthol (milled)
0.2%
masked. A combination of this product with suitable sweeteners and flavours should provide for a compliant formulation. However, the coating process led to a distinct increase in the particle size of the paracetamol,
(Fagron) was coated with an aqueous
• magnesium stearate (Bärlocher).
poly(vinyl acetate) dispersion (Kollicoat SR
The following filling materials, noted in Table
in the particle size was evident when the
30 D, BASF) without a plasticiser, to apply the
2, were also tested:
50 percent coating level was exceeded
required taste masking features.
• dextrose (Cargill)
(see Figure 3). The mouth sensation
• mannitol (Pearlitol 50C, Roquette Pharma)
of these samples remained pleasant,
• lactose (GranuLac 230, Tablettose 80,
even though some particles were larger
To guarantee good flow characteristics of the fine powdery material during coating, two percent fumed silica (Aerosil 200,
both Meggle Pharma)
whereas no additional increase
than 300 to 400µm. This was most likely
Evonik) was homogeneously incorporated
• Ludiflash (BASF)
due to saliva acting as plasticiser and
into the bulk API. The coating process was
• sorbitol (Shandong).
transforming the particle into a weak and
conducted in a GPCG 3.1 fluid bed coater
After mixing the components in a
chewing gum-like mass.
(Glatt) assembled with top-spray setup and
Turbula T2C blender (Willy A. Bachofen),
Even though poly(vinyl acetate) is
employing standard coating parameters
compression was done using a lab-scale
insoluble in water and is intended to be
(see Table 1).
rotary press XL 100 (Korsch) equipped
used for sustained release dosage forms,
with round shaped, flat faced, bevelled
the large surface area of the aggregates
Erweka USP dissolution apparatus equipped
edge punches with a diameter of 10.0mm.
still allows for the fast liberation of
with continuous on-line UV measuring
Compression forces of six to 17.5kN were
paracetamol (see Figure 4). Consideration
(Agilent 8453), wave length: 243nm.
applied, aiming for a tablet mass of about
that the coated material tends to
Hydrochloric acid (0.08N) was employed
400mg and a crushing force of some 50N.
agglomeration in the dissolution vessel is
as dissolution media (700mℓ ± one percent,
The tablets were characterised (n=20) using
needed, delaying drug release (indicated
37°C ±0.5 K, n=3).
a multi-tester (HT100, Sotax).
by the blue curve in Figure 4).
excipients were added:
Results and discussion
should be mixed with additional fumed
• super fine cross-linked poly(vinyl
A fine powder grade of paracetamol was
silica or talc to avoid incorrect indications
selected for this investigation (see Figure
(indicated by the violet curve in Figure 4).
The coated API was tested in a standard
To obtain chewable tablets, the following
pyrrolidone) (Kollidon CL-SF, BASF)
For dissolution testing the samples
• sucralose (New Trend Group)
1), to ensure a smooth and pleasant
• milled menthol (BASF)
mouth sensation of the final tablet after
the compressibility of the described
• strawberry flavour (Symrise)
disintegration in the oral cavity. To allow a
tabletting formulation were excellent.
The flow characteristic as well as
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
33
Figure 3: Particle size distribution (laser diffraction) of paracetamol coated with different amounts of poly (vinyl acetate) to obtain taste masking (coating level indicated)
PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms Figure 2: SEM image of coated paracetamol
9
Volume [%]
Figure 1: SEM image of uncoated paracetamol
12
uncoated coated (21.8%) coated (51.4%) coated (59.3%)
6
3
0 0.1
Conclusion
to chew. A bitter taste could not be
Aqueous poly(vinyl acetate) dispersion
detected. Due to chewing, the tablets
can be used to obtain taste masking of
disintegrated rapidly. No unpleasant or
paracetamol. The coating level required
sandy texture was notable on the tongue.
ranges from 20 to 50 percent. Although the
The various fillers offered differences
polymer is insoluble in water, paracetamol surface area of the coated material. The
effect. Yet the mouth-sensation
chewing gum-like texture of poly(vinyl
(appearance on the tongue) of the
acetate) in a wetted state provides a
two fillers was very similar. All the fillers
superior and non-sandy mouth sensation.•
Cumulative drug release [-]
while mannitol gave a cooling mouth
compensated with the amount of
1. Agnese, Th.; Cech, Th.; Mistry, M. Evaluating various wet
U2
disintegrating tablet formulations; 1st European Conference
Drug Administration, Centre for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER); Guidance for Industry, Orally Disintegrating Tablets; December 2008.
Conference on Pharmaceutics, 13 to 14 April, 2015; Reims, France. 2. Agnese, Th., Bang, F.; Cech, Th.; Mistry, M. Evaluating
BASF – pharmaceutical.basf.com
various disintegrants regarding their performance in orally
TU
Next-level lab technologies
Messe Muenchen brings the internationally renowned analytica cluster to South Africa in 2019, with the acquisition of Lab Africa, the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa. analytica is the world’s largest trade fair network for the lab and analysis industry.
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
30.0
for orally disintegration tablet formulations; 1st European
analytica Lab Africa 2019
34
20.0
binders to gain lactose-based agglomerates applicable
RE4 O4
RK GL
food & drink technology Africa 2019
10.0
3. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Food and
NE3 TW
In proud co-location with:
0.0
on Pharmaceutics, 13 to 14 April, 2015; Reims, France. REFERENCES
F3
uncoated coated (21.8%) coated (51.4%) coated (51.1%)
0.4
0.0
differences in sweetness may be
achieve a final tablet with a yellowish hue.
0.6
0.2
appeared to be suitable. Potential
By adding riboflavin as colourant to
1,000
0.8
is quickly liberated because of the large
the coating dispersion, it was possible to
100
1.0
in taste; dextrose resulted in sweetness
could be compensated with menthol.
10 Log. particle size [µm]
Figure 4: Dissolution profiles of uncoated and coated paracetamol
The resulting tablets were convenient
sucralose, while the cooling sensation
1
Hot Topics: Food and Water Analysis
03
B2
AL2
July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg Presented by Messe Muenchen South Africa info@mm-sa.com
ADVERTORIAL
PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms
A continuous process from powder to pellet Glatt explores the advantages of pellets in manufacturing and patient compliance and shares its recent development in continuous processing technologies.
P
ellets are on trend and enable
It is also possible to turn chemically
a wide variety of dosage forms.
incompatible drugs into different types
By applying functional coatings
of pellets, which contain the API in a
to a pellet, the effect of the
protected form.
API in the stomach and intestines can
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Pellets can be produced using the
be targeted. The release of the active
Wurster fluidised bed technology, or the
ingredient from a pellet is not only
extrusion or spheronisation technique.
controlled by the pH of the fluid in the
Innovative manufacturing methods such
stomach and intestines, but also by
as the Micro Px and ProCell continuous
the permeability of the coatings. The
Glatt technologies can be used to achieve
bioavailability of an API can be improved
the special qualities of pellet cores. The
by the MUPS concept and the associated
rounder and smoother the API pellets, the
possibilities of targeted API release.
easier it is to reproducibly apply functional
An API contained in pellets can be
coatings and to achieve a defined release
packaged in various formats. It can be
of the active ingredient,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; explains Norbert
filled in capsules, pressed into tablets, or
PĂśllinger, head of technology development
packaged in sachets or stick packs to
at Glatt Pharmaceutical Services.
A multiple unit pellet system contained within a capsule
be taken with water. Manufacturers can also produce a juice format to be taken
Choosing the right process
over a period of one to two weeks. Mini
Pellet cores containing an API take one
pellets, specially designed for children
of two basic forms: they are either a
and which mask the unpleasant taste of
neutral starter pellet coated with active
a drug, can be filled into drinking straws
ingredient, or a matrix pellet. To produce
to be administered with a liquid.
pellets coated with an active, a drug is
The continuous production process explained by Glatt within a multi-purpose Modcos system
36
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms dissolved or dispersed in a suitable liquid
percent. Basket extruders can be used
interconnected to form one continuous
and fluidised bed technology is used to
to achieve pellets with a particle size
process. The API and excipient powder
spray it onto neutral starter pellets made
>700μm and an API content of up to 60
mixture is continuously moistened in a
from sugar or cellulose. Drugs susceptible
percent,’ Pöllinger explains.
mid-shear granulator and supplied directly
to moisture can also be fixed to a neutral
to the basket extruder positioned below
starter pellet in powder form using fluidised
Three steps in one machine
for extrusion. Thereafter the extrudates
bed powder coating.
Glatt, based in Binzen, Germany, and
can either be transferred directly to
With matrix pellets, the API is present
represented locally by Reitech SA, has
a continuous fluidised bed dryer or
in a homogeneous active and excipient
expanded its product range to include
processed further in the spheroniser.
matrix. These pellets can be produced using direct pelletising, either in batch mode or continuous operation. The API and the excipients are moistened by wet granulation and conveyed through an extruder to form sausage-shaped aggregates. The next step involves a
The three processes are integrated into one machine
spheroniser, which rounds the oblong extrudates to create spherical pellets of
a pelletising system for continuous
the drug.
extrusion, which features a high degree
spheronisers arranged in a cascade,
of flexibility.
enabling the continuous process,’ says
Batch processes as well as continuous methods can be applied to produce
There are three steps in the continuous
‘The compact system uses two
Axel Friese, head of marketing at Glatt
extrusion process to produce matrix
Process Technology Pharma.
pellets: wet granulation; extrusion and
The extrusion stage can be configured
and in the API content of the pellets,
spheronisation. Until now, these three
according to the desired quality of the
whereas continuous fluidised bed
steps had to be performed in a batch
extrusion pellets. Using different matrices
pelletising processes can produce
process using three different machines.
to extrude the moist mass, the size of the
pellets between 150 and 400μm
In Glatt’s new system, the three processes
pellets and their density can be adjusted.
and with an API content of up to 100
are integrated into one machine and
Long spaghetti-like extrudates break into
matrix active ingredient pellets. ‘The differences are in the pellet size
www.glatt.com
Glatt. MultiLab.
The All in One Solution for OSD Lab Processes.
Glatt. Pelletizing System.
The Solution for “High Drug Loading” Pellets.
Glatt. TwinPro.
The Future of Process Fusion.
Glatt. Integrated Process Solutions.
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
37
PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms sausages of a defined size,
powder dispensing of the active
forming spheronisation pellets of a defined size. Alternatively, the length of the extrudates can be determined using two blades with an offset arrangement of 180° which cut the extrudate into pieces of defined lengths when it
DID YOU KNOW?
ingredients and excipients; wet granulation, drying and tableting, through
Multiple unit pellet systems, or MUPS consist of a large number of discrete, API-loaded particles ranging in size from 100 to 2 000μm.
exits the extruder. ‘The continuous drying
entire process is modelled much more effectively, allowing
to tablet coating. With
manufacturers
the new pelletising
to achieve
system, spheronisation
exceptional total
can also be added
yields. It is also
to the wet granulation
easier and safer
and extrusion production system. In combination with the drying
module, throughput of up to
Axel Friese
for the operator to handle APIs,’ says Friese. The dried API pellets are usually coated with functional layers to create a defined
process that follows extrusion or
50kg of pellets per hour is achieved
release profile or to mask the taste of
spheronisation can be carried out
with the new production line. The
the drug.
in the Modcos dryer module of the
pelletising system control unit is linked
new MultiLab system, or in the larger,
to the MultiLab multifunctional unit’s
fitted with a suitable container for the
continuous fluidised bed module of
control system, ensuring end to end
coating process, in which the API pellets
the GPCG 10 series,’ Friese explains.
process control, enabled by the
are coated using the bottom spray
Scada-based system, which connects
process,’ he states. The coated pellets
Modular approach provides flexibility
to all PAT integrations.
are then transferred to the capsule filling
The Modcos (modular continuous)
casters and its design is so compact
system is a multi-purpose platform
it can be transported through normal
for continuous manufacture of
laboratory doors. It is also quick and
granulates, tablets and coated
easy to clean.
tablets. Its modules incorporate the entire process chain from the
The laboratory unit is mounted on
‘By ensuring short distances between the process elements, the
‘In this case, the MultiLab system is
machine by means of a pneumatic conveying system. •
Glatt – www.glatt.com Reitech SA – www.reitech.co.za
Taking responsibility
for providing quality service. MJ Labs is a contract manufacturer and packer for complementary medicines, health supplements, cosmetics and vitamin fortification. This is done in capsule, powder, cream, liquid, tablet and sachet form for human use. New machinery has been introduced which includes a blister pack machine, tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet packing machine.
Contact us on 0128048966 or e-mail rp@mjlabs.co.za for any queries.
38
MJ Lab ad.indd 1
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
2018/05/24 10:13 AM
Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.
The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities
Hersolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products. It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments. Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.
Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines
Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2
fax: +27 11 614 4615
email: admin@hersol.co.za
web: www.hersol.co.za
PERSONAL CARE
Save the planet with speciality silica The demand for raw materials approved for use in natural cosmetics is steadily on the rise. Harnessing its expertise in manufacturing silica, Evonik has developed two new ideal alternatives to microplastics: Sipernat 250 PC and Sipernat 9000.
S
ipernat 250 PC is designed
The four Sipernat PC products from
for body scrub
Evonik now cover virtually all
applications. The hardness of its
particles is well suited for use on normal skin. Sipernat 9000 PC is intended for applications involving larger amounts of dirt, or less sensitive body
DID YOU KNOW?
rinse-off formulation needs in addition to offering benefits
The microbeads in scrubs, shower gels and toothpastes are an avoidable part of the global plastic pollution problem. According to Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics, a single shower can result in 100 000 plastic particles entering the ocean.
areas such as the feet. These applications benefit from the harder and durable
such as global availability and controlled,
Evonik’s Sipernat PC products are also Cosmos certified and can be used in natural cosmetics products. They are INCI-classified as hydrated silica, which makes them ‘derived mineral ingredients’ in the definition of ISO 16128-1.
consistent quality.
Evonik is a leading global manufacturer of silica. In addition to its
Certified for natural cosmetics All Sipernat PC products
fumed silica Aerosil and the precipitated silica Ultrasil, Sipernat, Zeodent and Spherilex, Evonik also produces silica
are listed as nature-
based matting agents under the brand
identical by Natrue, the
name Acematt and other fumed metal
International Natural and Organic
oxides under the brand, Aeroxide.
particles of Sipernat 9000 PC to
Cosmetics Association dedicated to
Evonik’s global production capacity for
create a better scrubbing effect.
promoting natural skin care.
all silica based products is about one
The products complement the
Natrue’s strict label criteria and
existing assortment of Sipernat 22
clearly defined procedures are seen
PC and Sipernat 2200 PC, which are
by the global cosmetics industry as
preferred in formulations for facial
a valuable way to differentiate true
and body care products, or more
natural cosmetics products from
delicate and sensitive skin.
greenwashed ones.
million metric tons per year. •
Evonik – www.sipernat.com
Naturally SIPERNAT® PC – The versatile and eco-friendly exfoliator Hydrated silica SIPERNAT® PC advantages: ■ ■ ■
■
Certified as Nature identical by COSMOS and NATRUE High compatibility with various formulations Portfolio with different particle sizes, morphologies and hardness for different skin sensitivity (e. g. face, body, feet) Globally available in consistent and tightly controlled quality
Use Evonik’s silica expertise for your advanced cosmetic formulation – Inside, to get it right.
Anzeige SIPERNAT PC_SA_3.indd 1
40
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
03.05.2019 10:49:08
PERSONAL CARE
Boost soap foam with Omyacare In the shower category, foaminess is a key attribute. With Omyacare natural calcium carbonate, available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, brands can pump up their soap bar foam without increasing the cost of the formulation.
T
he bath, shower and body care
consumption of plastic packaging and
cost. The fine particles increase the friction
market in South Africa is dynamic
their water footprint. It’s no surprise new
during the soap rubbing action, creating
and expected to grow above six
solid formats beyond soap bars are
more foam and improving the consumer’s
percent per year during the next
also appearing on the market, such as
experience. To demonstrate this, Omya
shampoo bars and conditioner bars.
has developed a test method to quantify
five years. In this segment, innovation in bar soaps remained steady, with the
Whether consumers choose a soap bar
foam generation in soap bars. Panellists are
introduction of new products, particularly
by environmental conviction or for cost
trained to rub soap bars in a reproducible
shower products, growing 13 percent per
reasons, they don’t want to compromise
way. After rubbing, a photograph is taken
year between 2014 and 2018.
on sensory experience.
of their hands. The foam is isolated, and the
Soap bars are making a comeback,
white pixels counted by computer analysis
even in regions where liquid format
Pump up the foam
soaps are dominant. This is mainly due
Omyacare natural calcium carbonate is
to environmentally conscious consumers
used in soap bars to bring whiteness and
pixels, the higher the quantity of foam –
turning to solid bars to reduce their
opacity and to optimise the formulation
resulting in an average improvement of
(see images 1 and 2). The higher the number of white
25 percent in foam generation. This was 1
2
1 & 2: Computer analysis of the foam generated in the reference formula (left – without Omyacare) compared to a soap bar formulation with five percent Omyacare (right). Data shows a 27 percent increase in the number of white pixels, resulting in a 27 percent improvement in foam generation
measured when adding five percent of Omyacare to the soap bar, compared to the same formulation without Omyacare. •
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Omya – info.cosmetics@omya.com
Omya Consumer Goods omya.com
Boosting foam generation and sensoriality Omyacare® improves foam generation up to 25%, providing a creamy sensation to bar soaps along with enhanced whiteness and opacity.
grantp@cjpchemicals.co.za
Official Distributor for RSA
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
41
PERSONAL CARE
Natural xylitol ester for deo applications
Global sales of deodorants reached USD$21 billion in 2017, with an expected minimum annual growth of five percent. Yet the category is facing new challenges as the demand for safe alternatives to Farnesol and Triclosan in traditional deodorant formulations continues to grow.
B
ody odours are a major source of chemo-sensorial communication in humans and are far more significant than we may think.
Intense sweating or hyperhidrosis, especially in the armpits and on feet, can lead to unpleasant odours and impact one’s confidence. This excessive amount of water increases the opportunity for bacterial growth and is frequently accompanied by bromhidrosis, or offensive body odour.
Even after a significant microbial reduction in 15 minutes, Hebeatol Plus Deo keeps microbial growth under control, gradually reducing the colony count for up to 24 hours to demonstrate bacteriostatic capacity.
Although unpleasant, sweat is one of the body’s major thermoregulation mechanisms. The cosmetics industry has developed several ways to control the
as a result of studies showing it may be
Cosmetics, is a natural, functional xylitol
unpleasant odours associated with sweat.
associated with endocrine dysfunction,
ester with potent antimicrobial activity and
These include:
neurotoxicity and cancer.
deodorant capabilities. It can be used as a
1. odour neutralising agents 2. enzymatic inhibitors of bacterial transformation reactions
Farnesol representation has been increasing and is found in 24 percent of products on the market, especially in France,
safe substitute to Farnesol and Triclosan in traditional deodorant formulations. This ingredient, of vegetable origin, is
3. direct inhibitors of aminoacylase
UK, Germany and USA, where Triclosan
obtained from Xylitol and Caprylic Acid.
4. deodorant agents.
has already been banned. Yet recent
Xylitol is a pentol sugar while Caprylic Acid is
studies show Farnesol is associated with
obtained from plant-based oils, extracted in
A strong case for alternatives
allergic contact dermatitis, so it may also be
a sustainable way and RSPO certified.
Farnesol and Triclosan are among the main
restricted soon in deodorant products.
components of deodorants on the market.
Triclosan is linked to environmental
Hebeatol Plus DEO is a 100 percent biodegradable, non-ionic surfactant
Triclosan is still present in more than eight
issues too. According to experts, Patrick
molecule, which reduces the surface tension
percent of deodorants worldwide, despite
McNamara and Stuart Levy, it is a
of liquids and increasing the solubility of
it having been banned and/or restricted
biocide and resists degradation even
materials. Due to its chemical structure,
in wastewater treatment plants. This
it also has complementary properties,
and the aforementioned issues have
acting as an emollient, solvent, solubiliser
challenged the industry to find Triclosan
and co-emulsifier. •
Hebeatol Plus DEO is a 100 percent biodegradable, non-ionic surfactant molecule
and Farnesol alternatives.
New, safe substitute Hebeatol Plus DEO from Chemyunion, represented in South Africa by Chemgrit
Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com
Chemgrit Cosmetics realise that people are the key to our success, our customers, suppliers and personnel are our future. We believe in operating our business with integrity, efficiency and service excellence. CHEMGRIT COSMETICS (PTY) LTD 7 HAROLD FLIGHT ROAD, JET PARK, BOKSBURG, 1459. 011 397 4455 / 082 853 7589
42
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
PERSONAL CARE
Deep supplier relationships improve business success
A strong supply chain is the backbone of any successful business. P C Review looks at how the great supplier-manufacturer relationship between Bottle Printers and Remancos ensures streamlined production timelines and quality finished products for their customers.
Stock packaging items now available from Bottle Printers
excellent service and unmatched quality.
supplies us with excellent quality packaging
In turn, Remancos has shown constancy to
and printing at affordable prices, our
Bottle Printers to grow both businesses.’
successful business relationship with them
Remancos is a contract manufacturer
is long term,’ Candice comments. ‘There
founded in 2009 by Candice Kalil, who
is great importance in this day and age
has 25 years’ experience in the personal
in finding a trustworthy supplier – we have
care industry.
found this in Bottle Printers.’
‘We have been working together for
Richard adds, ‘It makes such a difference
five years and rely on Bottle Printers for all
to business when you’re dealing with a
our printing. Their expertise in the industry
hands-on, quality orientated and efficient
has assisted us in launching fabulous and
company like Remancos. We look forward
successful new products on the market. Our
to growing in all avenues with Candice and
customers have launched many products
her team.’
using packaging and printing from Bottle
Remancos is a recognised innovator in
Printers, including an ethnic hair range, a
designing and manufacturing personal care
skin care range and a body care range.’
products at its state of the art production plant in Johannesburg. The company’s
W
Quality is a way of life ith the challenges facing
In 2018, Bottle Printers diversified into
the South African economy,
sourcing and supplying quality packaging
there is a greater need for
to become a one-stop shop.
strong business relationships
with closures to suit,’ says Richard. ‘The
industry. Suppliers to the industry have seen
packaging is produced locally and provides
sales volumes lagging over the past three
our customers with the convenience of no
years. While general growth is noted, gaining
longer having to farm out work across two to
traction to build up sales volumes is proving
three separate suppliers.’
To counter these challenges, Remancos and Bottle Printers have developed a strong bond. Richard Irwin of Bottle Printers explains: ‘We offer Remancos quick turnaround times,
1
2017/08/27
3:42 PM
Re
‘We supply bottles in all shapes and sizes
and loyalty to grow the personal care
more and more difficult.
Remancos 130x177 Advert.pdf
minimum manufacturing quantity is 100kg. •
Nature is
RESEARCH
Tel Cel Fa
This new offering from Bottle Printers has become extremely beneficial to Remancos. ‘The quality of your product or service is what keeps customers returning, again and again. We know this as a contract manufacturer and because Bottle Printers
The Remancos team
Unit E2, M Strijdom p Email: ca
Remancos… Where we make your d Bottle Printers –
WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS F
www.bottleprinters.co.za • Formulation Development Remancos – www.remancos.co.za • • • • • • •
In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting 100 95 75
25 5 0
BP Advert 06 May 2019 09:56:46 AM
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
43
MATERIALS HANDLING & WAREHOUSING
Learn from industry experts at SAPICS 2019 The annual SAPICS Conference is Africa’s leading knowledge sharing and networking event for supply chain professionals. Hosted by the Professional Body for Supply Chain Management (SAPICS), the event takes place in Cape Town from 9 to 12 June.
the most of the opportunity and book their seats to attend,’ comments Mungo Park, SAPICS president.
How to navigate disruptions Sean Culey, a futurist, author
Chep returns to SAPICS 2019 as a silver sponsor and will ensure the event is carbon neutral
T
A VARIETY OF prestigious sponsors have confirmed their support of the SAPICS Conference. Barloworld Logistics and Syspro are both gold
and globally recognised
sponsors. Chep, Eazi Access, Fortna, Goscor,
business transformation
Imperial Logistics and Redefine Properties are
expert, will return to the
silver sponsors, and JDA and Jungheinrich are
SAPICS stage to discuss the
support sponsors.
drivers of technological he conference is designed to
MEET THE SPONSORS
change; the social, economic
Park says the support from leading South African and multinational organisations reflects the significance of the event.
offer practical and relevant
and political factors both enabling and
information packaged
suppressing this change; and the impact
in excellent educational
technologies like robotics, blockchain
will reflect the growing global drive towards
presentations, case studies, interactive
and AI will have on businesses, the
greener supply chains. ‘Chep will ensure the
workshops and site visits.
economy and society.
event is carbon neutral,’ he explains. ‘This will be
This year’s programme will offer a
Supply chain disruptions are widely
Thanks to Chep, the 2019 SAPICS Conference
achieved by calculating the carbon footprint of
diverse array of informative and inspiring
regarded as one of the greatest risks
the event, based on the number of delegates and
presentations, including insight into the
facing manufacturers and have become
their travel itineraries. CHEP will then purchase
supply chain challenges of United Nations
a top concern of global insurance
carbon credits to offset this.’
peacekeepers in Somalia, robotics and risk
providers. A glitch in the supply chain
management, learnings from Coca-Cola
can cost an organisation up to
and a discussion on improving access to
10 percent of its shareholder value, and
life-saving medicines.
even put the company out of business.
There is a lot to learn from what’s being done across the African continent to increase access to healthcare at the last mile
The conference
Dr Robert Besseling, founder and
will also offer
chief executive of EXX Africa, is a risk
powerful value-
expert who will share his expertise with
adding workshops
delegates on how to survive disruptions.
at no additional
Dr Besseling specialises in forecasting
cost to delegates.
political, security and economic
Professor Gregory
risk to African natural resources
Schlegel of
organisations and those associated with
Lehigh University
infrastructure development.
in the USA, a renowned author and founder of the global Supply
Improving access to medicine The challenges of navigating the last mile in extreme environments will
Chain Risk Management Consortium, will
be examined in a presentation by
be presenting a one of a kind workshop
Joseph Roussel, director and private
on how exemplar companies survive
sector engagement group lead at
during and thrive after a disruption.
VillageReach in Brussels. VillageReach
‘This year, we have 10 not to be missed
is a non-governmental organisation
workshops, including Professor Schlegel’s
striving to improve communities’ access
seminar. I urge SAPICS delegates to make
to healthcare and life-saving medicines
44
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
and vaccines in remote rural areas, in developing countries. ‘There is a lot to learn from what’s being done across the African continent to increase access to healthcare at the last mile,’ Roussel says. ‘VillageReach’s work leverages private sector best practice and adapts and tests private sector ideas, often yielding innovations. My presentation offers some thought-provoking insights on how to scale innovations in frontier markets, how to train customers to improve 3PL operations, how to adapt supply chains to local contexts and configure multi-modal delivery to reach hard to access consumers.’ • For more information, visit www. conference.SAPICS.org, or send an e-mail to info@SAPICS.org.za to register for the 2019 conference.
MATERIALS HANDLING & WAREHOUSING
Alliance Healthcare turns to Zetes for FMD compliance
1
1 & 3: With the NMVS, pharmacies, wholesalers, selfdispensing doctors and hospital pharmacies can check the authenticity of a pharmaceutical product 2: Handheld or desktop terminals are used within a warehouse to scan medicines; the data is captured and verified in real-time by ZetesOlympus
2
3
The Falsified Medicines Directive came into force in Europe on 9 February. Alliance Healthcare, a leading European pharmaceutical wholesaler and healthcare services provider, has selected Zetes to ensure its compliance.
T
he Falsified Medicines Directive (FMD) stipulates ‘wholesalers
FMD AND GS1 SIMILARITIES
and third-party logistics providers need to have the capability to
verify and, where required, decommission products instantaneously against data held on the National Medicines Verification System (NMVS). Each European country (of the EU, the European Economic Area and Switzerland) has to implement a NMVS, which will be set up and managed by a National Medicines Verification Organisation. The main purpose of the NMVS is to serve as the verification platforms that pharmacies or other registered parties – such as wholesalers, self-dispensing doctors or hospital pharmacies – will use to check the authenticity of a product. Alliance Healthcare sought a readymade solution that could ensure its immediate compliance.
communicate with third-party systems, further enhancing supply chain collaboration and communication.
TO COUNTER THE threat of falsified medicines entering the legal supply chain, the European Parliament and Council has released a Directive on Falsified Medicines (2011/62/EU) (amending Directive 2001/83/EC). It aims to improve patient safety by mandating marketing authorisation holders and manufacturers to put a system in place that prevents falsified medicines from entering the legal supply chain i.e. the European Medicines Verification System (EMVS). The EMVS should guarantee the authenticity of medicines by an end to end verification system. This move by the European Parliament and Council is being mirrored by the National Department of Health with the implementation of GS1 Standards for track and trace throughout the South African pharmaceutical manufacturing industry and healthcare supply chain.
A turnkey solution
Patient safety is paramount Joaquim Simoes, director of operations and regional managing director at Alliance Healthcare comments: ‘Patient safety is of the utmost importance and at the heart of what we do. In preparation for the FMD coming into effect, we required a ready-made solution, which would not only integrate with our existing systems but also ensure we were immediately compliant. Zetes’ FMD solution empowers Alliance Healthcare to have full visibility of the product pathway, eliminating the risk of non-compliance.’ Alan Wirtz, Zetes CEO, adds: ‘We’re delighted to have partnered with Alliance Healthcare to support the organisation with its proactive approach to compliance. With the recently implemented FMD regulations, our turnkey solution integrates
The pharmaceutical wholesaler
(WMS), ZetesMedea manages the standard
seamlessly with its internal systems and
implemented Zetes’ turnkey FMD solution
workflows to enable the verification and/or
external suppliers.
across more than 100 sites throughout
the decommissioning of products. Alliance
10 of its European territories. Through a
Healthcare’s warehouse operators are
Healthcare with the flexibility and scalability
combination of Zetes’ logistics execution
able to scan medicines with handheld or
required to strengthen its already robust
solution, ZetesMedea, and its advanced
desktop terminals and the data is captured
practices. We are working collaboratively
supply chain traceability software,
and verified in real-time by ZetesOlympus.
with the organisation to provide a future-
ZetesOlympus, Alliance Healthcare is able
‘We are pleased to be providing Alliance
Whether a product is being verified
proof solution, capable of responding
to streamline event handling, reporting and
or decommissioned, the data captured
not only to FMD but also to any further
communication with the national hubs.
is automatically checked against the
regulatory changes.’ •
NVMS, and stored in ZetesOlympus, in line
How does it work?
with the FMD regulations. Additionally,
Through integration with a number of
the solution further extends capability
internal warehouse management systems
by allowing Alliance Healthcare to
Zetes – www.zetes.com
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
45
INDUSTRY TALK
Ensuring fair play
between participants and consumers Brands and businesses shouldn’t fear the Consumer Protection Act. Instead they should welcome its drive to promote fairness, openness and good business practices among suppliers of goods and services and consumers. Should your brand or business be faced with a consumer complaint, the CGSO is here to assist by providing an alternative dispute resolution service.
T
he Consumer Goods
conduct a formal investigation
and Services Ombud
and if warranted, refer the case to
(CGSO) is established
the National Consumer Tribunal
and accredited in terms
(NCT). The NCT has the power to
of section 82(6) of the Consumer
levy administrative penalties of up
Protection Act. This Act empowers
to 10 percent of annual turnover or
the Minster of Trade and Industry
make any other appropriate order
to approve and promulgate an
for refunds etc.’
Industry Code of Conduct, which
The CGSO is governed by a board
allows industry to manage its
of directors comprising industry,
own disputes instead of allowing
consumer body and independent
each and every complaint to
representatives. It is funded through
be investigated by the National
levies and fees, which the CGSO is
Consumer Commission.
empowered to charge in terms of its
The Consumer Goods and
Code. Although the board consists of
Services Industry Code of
industry representatives, they play no
Conduct was promulgated by the Minister of Trade and Industry on 29 April 2015. As a result, it is compulsory for all qualifying businesses to comply with the Code through signing up to the CGSO, paying the participation fees and complying with the dispute resolution process outlined in the Code and the CPA.
role in the adjudication of complaints.
We have fielded more than 61 000 calls, opened some 19 410 complaints and closed more than 18 000
The CGSO began operating in
This ensures complaints are managed independently without the influence of industry. The CGSO has to report to the Department of Trade and Industry and the NCC on complaints received, trends and non-cooperative suppliers.
What does the CGSO do? ‘We receive and assist in resolving
March 2013 after initially being set up
19 410 complaints and closed more than
complaints by consumers against
by the Consumer Goods Council of
18 000,’ says Katlego Lehabe, business
members (participants) of the Consumer
South Africa. It has evolved into a fully
development manager at the CGSO.
Goods and Services Industry in terms of
independent entity whose role is to
‘The office does not have powers to
the Consumer Protection Act (CPA) and
provide an alternative dispute resolution
make binding decisions. If parties to
enforce the Industry Code of Conduct.
service as provided for in section 70 of
a dispute fail to reach a settlement or
Participants can also refer difficult cases
the Consumer Protection Act.
disagree with our recommendations,
to the Ombud instead of litigating,’
a complainant has the right to lodge a
Lehabe comments.
‘Since our mandate became formalised in April 2015, we have fielded
complaint with the National Consumer
more than 61 000 calls, opened some
Commission (NCC). The NCC can then
46
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
If you’re unsure of who the Code applies to, Lehabe says it applies to all
INDUSTRY TALK
Table 1
Group
Turnover range
Group 1
R3 billion +
Old annual fee R250 000
New annual fee R200 000
Group 2
Above R1 billion to R3 billion
R150 000
R120 000
Group 3
Above R500 million to R1 billion
R50 000
R40 000
Group 4
Above R5 million to R500 million
R3 000
R3 360
Group 5
Above R1 million to R5 million
R1 500
R1 680
Group 6
R1 to R1 million
no cost
no cost
retailers, suppliers, wholesalers,
and industry in terms of CPA (and
distributors, manufactures,
part of the value chain),’ he adds.
producers, importers, intermediaries, logistics and supply chain agents in the FMCG industry, unless regulated elsewhere by public regulation or a Code of Conduct accredited in terms of section 82 of the CPA. Currently the only other accredited Code is
DID YOU KNOW?
industry to minimum standards when
Even if your products are covered by an entity or retailer already subscribed to CGSO, in terms of the CPA, everyone in the supply chain is jointly and severally liable, and the CGSO can decide which party is liable in the event of a consumer complaint.
the Motor Industry Code of Conduct.
Magauta Mphahlele
While the Code guides
engaging with consumers (private judge); the CGSO
MEET THE OMBUDSMAN
collects industry data – causes, systematic and recurring problems – and makes
At the 2019 P C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference, Magauta Mphahlele, CGSO ombudsman, shared an interesting discussion
recommendations.
on how companies that offer consumer goods
The CGSO is equipped to
and services can use the ombud to their
resolve difficult complainants and reduce the administrative burden (time, effort and costs) of
advantage. Member companies have access to CPA experts through the CGSO, who are just a phone call away should they need advice on a matter.
Benefits and participation
its members. It takes restorative, not
‘The CGSO receives and deals
punitive action against a business in
with complaints and disputes by a
the form of non-compliance notices
consumer relating to the Code or
or fines). It also identifies ways of
CPA. It facilitates unbiased, quick
increasing CPA compliance as
and effective dispute resolution
an extension of internal resolution
court proceedings, which could cost a company
between consumers (at no charge)
processes and works to educate the
involved in a complaint its ability to trade.
FMCG value chain on the Code and the CGSO. But what happens if you refuse to participate in the CGSO scheme? Lehabe says you will be in
She says sustainable companies understand the value of dealing with consumer complaints in an appropriate manner. This means working together at ombud level to resolve the complaint. Bear in mind, the alternative to an ombud is
Mphahlele is passionate about ensuring a healthy and fair credit and consumer protection market in South Africa. She is a respected speaker and commentator on credit and general consumer protection issues.
contravention of section 82(8) of the Consumer Protection Act ) and might be liable for an administrative fine
determined from time to time by the
and other punitive measures should
CGSO board (see Table 1).
the NCC investigate your company
To avoid the reputational and
and refer the matter to the National
regulatory risk that results from not
Consumer Tribunal.
handling customer complaints well, brands and business should register as
What are the costs involved?
participants of the Consumer Goods
The CGSO scheme is a mandatory
and Services Ombud Scheme, to
one that consumer goods and
become Code and CPA compliant.
services companies are obligated to
You’ll be joining more than 700
register with and contribute towards
companies already on the Consumer
the running costs of the ombud.
Goods and Services Ombud’s list of
In terms of the CGCSI Code, Katlego Lehabe is responsible for creating awareness amongst all qualifying businesses in South Africa about their obligations arising out of the CPA and the Consumer Goods and Services Industry Code of Conduct
registered participants. •
participants shall contribute to the funding of the operations of the CGSO by means of the payment of a joining fee and an annual levy and (if necessary) a special levy,
Call +27 (0)11 781 2607 and a CGSO business development officer will take you through the registration process, or you can visit the CGSO website, www.cgso.org.za, and register online.
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
47
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Shaping the path for EMPLOYEE DEVELOPMENT Plastics|SA has made several updates within its training division. To bring the industry and related sectors up to speed on these developments, the industry body hosted a series of nationwide breakfast sessions, themed ‘curiosity: the path to life-long learning’.
T
he breakfasts provide the ideal platform for Plastics|SA’s team to connect with past, current and
1
2. workplace operations, change management and communication 2
3. workplace risk, coaching and
potential clients at the beginning of each
knowledge management
year. Kirtida Bhana, the association’s
4. workplace process optimisation
training executive, said: ‘They also allow us
and efficiencies
to highlight exciting activities in the training
5. workplace project management
division through discussions on the latest
and finances.
3
trends affecting business daily and by identifying specific training needs within
PROGRAMME UPDATES
these businesses.’
To address the growing need for training
The inspiring theme and related
thermoplastic welders, Plastics|SA offers
insights of the 2019 breakfasts offered
NQF 2 welding in thermoplastic fabrication
attendees ‘food for thought’, rather than
training at its premises in Gauteng,
simply more information.
Cape Town and Durban, as well as at
During 2018, more than 3 500 students successfully completed training
companies’ premises.
programmes at Plastics|SA’s training centres
countrywide in South Africa, as well as in
in Johannesburg, Cape Town, and Durban.
Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, Zambia,
‘We have been working hard to create a
1
The industry body has hosted training 2
Tanzania, Malawi, Madagascar and Lesotho.
haven of learning at each of these centres
The following aspects are covered:
by upgrading facilities and equipment to
• butt (HDPE) welding
facilitate hands-on training and practical
• electro-fusion welding
experience,’ she added.
• hot air welding
3
Plastics|SA’s regional office in Maitland, Cape Town, had a good turnout of guests who attended an information sharing breakfast Lucky draw winner, Vusi Nxumalo (left) received a three day training voucher from Plastics|SA’s Isaya Ntuli at the Johannesburg information sharing breakfast M atshidiso Phala of Merseta, guest speaker Roxanne Da Mata of Strata-G Labour Solutions, Kirtida Bhana and Isaya Ntuli of Plastics|SA and Thulani Tshabalala of Merseta
• hot air extrusion welding
of learning outcomes, which provide
beneficial to private sector businesses.
• socket fusion welding for pipes
the qualifying learner with vocational
Geraldine Booyse of Bars Pharmaceuticals
and fittings
knowledge and skills appropriate to the
commented: ‘The content of the training
• solvent cement welding
context of production technology. This is the
modules is interesting, and the lecturers
• overlap welding.
first qualification in a series of qualifications.
The training offering is proving
are knowledgeable. They are able to share
Originally developed at an NQF Level 4,
their expertise with students across different
the setter skills trade qualification was been
Plastics|SA has added three new pipe
industries, keeping students motivated and
reviewed and reworked to NQF Level 5. In the
and profile extruders and three new blow
boosting their morale.’
following processes, part qualifications to the
moulders at all of its training facilities around
trade have been developed at an NQF Level
the country.
NEW PROGRAMME
4: injection moulding, blow moulding and
In 2018 Plastics|SA added Generic
pipe and profile extrusion.
Management to its training curriculum.
Online learning programmes – aimed
For new extruders and blow moulders,
POCKETS OF EXCELLENCE ‘We take great pride in offering our
This qualification targets managers,
at filling certain gaps in the market for soft
customers specialised, customised and
supervisors and all learners who have
skills – have been developed by Cross
contextualised material that addresses
completed the NQF 4 and supervisory
Knowledge in the UK. These programmes aim
their individual needs and those of their
management programmes.
to transform employees, drive business results
workforce. It is hugely rewarding to receive
and refine and develop soft skills that could
feedback from our customers and the
the outcomes required for specific unit
give a company the competitive edge.
students who we’ve trained, but this does
standards included in the national
Companies may purchase licences (one
not mean that we get too comfortable.
certificate generic management – generic
per user), which give them access to 124
On the contrary, it inspires us to work
manufacturing on NQF 5. It consists of
programmes to be completed in the user’s
even harder and refine our “pockets
the following five phases, which can be
own time and at the pace of the user.
of excellence” through continuous
Each learning programme addresses
completed separately: 1. workforce management
48
| MAY 2019 | P C Review
The national certificate in production technology NQF Level 2 is a combination
improvement of training expertise in the various areas,’ concluded Bhana. •
//ASSOCIATION NEWS
Significant international grant awarded to HPA
T
he prestigious grant is awarded
• the down-scheduling of Methionine –
to the association that IADSA deems has made a positive and
210mg limit [S0] • the down-scheduling of 5HTP – less
noteworthy contribution to the
than 220mg with health supplement
dietary supplements industry worldwide:
claims [S0].
IADSA’s 64 member-countries are annually
The application to down-schedule these
invited to participate.
substances was presented to the South
The HPA project submission for the
African Department of
IADSA Grant – Health Supplements Down-
Health, which approved and
Scheduling and Expanding on Substances
actioned the appeal.
– was prepared by HPA Associate, Janet
target further substances
long-term member of the South African
on the current schedule
CAMs and health products industry.
list and motivate for their
Criteria for winning included that the
down-scheduling, as well
project be replicable in other countries
as to motivate that further
or regions, it should serve as an example
substances be included
of a best practice, have the potential
in the current Schedule 0
to create change and make progress,
health supplement list,’
and be fully achievable given the right
says Welham.
that will help industry selfeasy it is to list a health product or complementary medicine in South Africa,’ Ascencao comments. ‘It will also empower us on the journey to engaging comprehensively and successfully with our regulators.’ HPA Chairperson, Maria Ascencao
To date, the HPA has successfully initiated:
Empowering local industry
• the down-scheduling of Silimarin (Milk
HPA Chairperson, Maria Ascencao,
supplements [S0]
thanked IADSA enthusiastically on behalf of the HPA’s 120 member companies and everyone in South Africa involved in the health products industry.
going to make all the difference to us in
regulate and showcase how
resources and inputs.
• the introduction of probiotics as health
‘Thank you for this incredible grant about which we are absolutely thrilled. It’s fast-tracking a listing system
‘The HPA’s ambition is to
Welham of Saige Business Consulting, a
Thistle) [S0]
The global spotlight shone on South Africa when the Health Products Association of Southern Africa (HPA) was awarded the International Alliance of Dietary/Food Supplements Associations (IADSA) Grant 2019. The announcement of the recipient was made on 10 April at IADSA’s Annual Week in Sydney, Australia.
IADSA – of which the HPA is a founding member – was created in 1998 to meet the increasing need for expertise, knowledge and experience on issues relating to supplements. Today, it is the global platform to guide the evolution of policy and regulation in the sector and has partnerships in countries and regions where supplement regulation and policy is being developed, modified or harmonised.
Janet Welham of Saige Business Consulting
A central role of IADSA is to ensure the creation of a strong network of national and regional associations across the world that are able to work with their governments and scientific communities. Member associations of IADSA are present on all continents.•
HPA – www.hpasa.co.za IADSA – www.iadsa.org
P C Review | MAY 2019 |
49
Tea time
Suduko
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