Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2019

May 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 5

www.pharmacos.co.za

The era of anti-ageing is over!

Highlights from in-cosmetics Global ORAL SOLID DOSAGE A preferred route for pharma products

TechnoVative Personal Care Applications

Connecting Global Competence

F3

GL

U2

TU

RE4

NE3 TW

O4

03

AL2

B2

analytica Lab Africa 2019 Next-level lab technologies

July 9-11, 2019 Johannesburg Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

Register Now At www.analytica-africa.com food & drink technology Africa

RK

Discover the latest trends, techniques and equipment in the world of analysis, biotechnology and diagnostics Messe München brings the internationally renowned analytica cluster to South Africa in 2019, with the acquisition of Lab Africa, the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa.

Visit analytica Lab Africa for: • The latest laboratory equipment and analysis solutions by over 100 exhibitors • Thought leadership across the food and drink, chemical, pharmaceutical, medical, agriculture, water and waste sectors • Access to refresher courses and demonstrations • Networking with up to 6,000 stakeholders across related sectors

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

May 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 5

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

SAHPRA awards first Cannabis cultivation license

Vantage to acquire Textron

Series of awards for Imperial Logistics

Airless dispenser from RPC Bramlage

11 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

14 EVENTS

KR

This year's in-cosmetics highlights at your fingertips

A review of the innovations from IMCD

20 ANTI-AGEING

Diversity in beauty celebrated in Paris 40 PERSONAL CARE

New speciality silica from Evonik

Use Omyacare to boost soap foam

Natural xylitol ester for deodorants

The synergies of Remancos and Bottle Printers

44 MATERIALS HANDLING

New actives for healthy, beautiful skin

Increase skin’s luminosity with Dawnergy peptide

& WAREHOUSING

Millchem’s cork oak and coconut complex

What’s hot at SAPICS 2019?

Award-winning InstaMask from Vantage

Ensure FMD compliance with Zetes

Ingredients to fight reactive oxygen species

Beat ‘tech neck’ wrinkles with The Care Co.

46 INDUSTRY TALK

A true Retinol alternative from Unicare

Reasons to join the Consumer Goods and Services Ombud

32 CARTON & BOARD

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS

Redesign your profits with Clomark

33 PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS

Taste masking in chewable tablets

Manufacture pellets using a continuous process

Technology for Falsified Medicines Directive compliance

14

Latest news from Plastics|SA and the HPA

36

A continuous process from powder to pellet

45

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti

Never cease to develop your network

A

lthough not everyone is keen on

and it’s highly evident in our section on

networking, there’s something

anti-ageing. On page 20 you can read

incredibly powerful about having

about active ingredients that support and

a strong professional network

enhance healthy skin, the newest products

Contributors: Florian Bang, Elena Cañadas, Thorsten Cech, Raquel Delgado, Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Jacques Strydom, Marine Vincendet ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za

in your career or your industry. I’ll be dead

on the market based on the skin microbiome,

honest, it’s not my favourite pastime but

ingredients to fight reactive oxygen species

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

I’ve learnt networking is key to establish

and an energising active that combats the

INTERNATIONAL SALES

and nurture long-term, mutually beneficial

negative effects a busy lifestyle can have on

relationships with the people I meet.

the skin’s appearance.

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

My networking cup overflowed in Paris this

Oral solid dosage forms take centre

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

year at in-cosmetics Global. The exhibition

stage in our pharma focus on page 33. In

brought together over 800 international

this edition you can read about the results

exhibitors of ingredients, fragrances, lab

of an investigation by BASF’s European

equipment, testing and regulatory solutions

pharma application lab to evaluate poly

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

with over 10 000 cosmetics manufacturers

(vinyl acetate) as a suitable taste masking

CIRCULATION

worldwide. I saw so many familiar faces at the

polymer for paracetamol. Glatt’s new

show from the South African personal care

pelletising system for continuous extrusion,

industry and got the opportunity to reconnect

which incorporates three previously separate

with many of my international contacts, whom

processes in one machine.

I mostly deal with on e-mail. These powerful

We also introduce the Consumer Goods

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

connections are central to the success of

and Services Ombud (CGSO) to you on

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review just

page 46. Should your brand or business be

as the connections between suppliers and

faced with a consumer complaint, the CGSO

Art Director: David Kyslinger

manufacturers ensure their sustained success.

is here to assist by providing an alternative

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

If you didn’t get a chance to attend in-

dispute resolution service. Together with the

cosmetics this year, we have included an

Consumer Protection Act, the CGSO seeks

extensive show review in this edition. Turn

to promote fairness, openness and good

to page 14 now to find out which suppliers

business practices between suppliers of

won awards, whose new ingredients are

goods and services and consumers.

truly innovative, and which local ingredient producers featured on the South African

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd MANAGEMENT TEAM

Enjoy the read!

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

pavilion sponsored by the Department of

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

Trade & Industry.

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

There is no doubt the pro-ageing revolution has arrived. The cosmetics industry is

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

gradually leaving behind the era of perfect,

HEAD OF HR: Camillah West

wrinkle free skin with beauty vocabulary

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

being more pro skin health and pro longevity

HEAD OFFICE

than ever before. We saw this at in-cosmetics

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

ADCOCK INGRAM SAYS YES TO CURB YOUTH UNEMPLOYMENT YES graduates with Madelein Roos, Adcock Ingram’s group learning & development manager; Andy Hall, Adcock Ingram CEO; Basadi Letsoalo; Dorette Neethling, Adcock Ingram’s CFO; Dr Thato Matshaba and Tracey Czakan, a Yes4Youth consultant

leaders. Listening to our graduates, we believe they are gaining valuable skills and knowledge and have really embraced the culture of the organisation. The YES initiative is built on a sustainable model and I would encourage other companies in South Africa to become part of this legacy,’ said Basadi Letsoalo, Adcock Ingram’s executive director: human capital & transformation.

Dr Tashmia Ismail-Saville, YES chief executive, commented: ‘Adcock Ingram was one of the first companies to partner with YES on investing in jobs for the youth THE YOUTH EMPLOYMENT Service (YES) and

Since November 2018, Adcock Ingram

and making a real difference in the lives of

Adcock Ingram established a partnership

has provided workplace experiences for

young people. We are grateful for its trust

when both organisations pledged to

132 graduates. In April 2019, YES graduates

and pioneering attitude.’

support President Ramaphosa’s vision.

were recognised for their commitment

This was to create one million jobs for

to the programme. Adcock Ingram

LinkedIn, YES youth are trained on how

unemployed youth within three years.

hosted a commemorative event at its

to build a professional profile on the

head office with all the YES graduates

world’s largest professional networking

between business, government and labour,

and representatives of YES; Dr Thato

site. Host companies are able to track the

focussing on tackling the challenges of

Matshaba, director of HIV prevention

performance of their youth through the YES

youth employability. To date it has created

programmes of the national department

supervisor app, which provides real-time

over 16 000 work experiences. What sets

of health; representatives of the Chemical

data gathering as well as insights on the

this initiative apart is that it is recognised

Industries Education & Training Authority;

success of the work placements.

by local and international researchers,

YES graduate mentors and the executive

academics and business professionals as

committee of Adcock Ingram.

YES, launched in 2018, is a partnership

one of the most innovative programmes of its kind.

Licensed Cannabis cultivation at House of Hemp, based in KwaZulu-Natal

Through the YES partnership with

To find out more about YES, visit www. yes4youth.co.za, or follow the initiative

‘We are truly honoured to have partnered with YES. The youth of today are tomorrow’s

on social media, on LinkedIn, Twitter or Facebook.

AFRIPLEX ALIGNED WITH PRIZED CANNABIS CULTIVATION LICENSE A growing body of medical research, both locally

more general ailments like pain, inflammation,

and globally, points to the recognition of cannabis

appetite stimulation, sleep quality, nausea

– and especially CBD use – for patients needing

and asthma.

to manage diseases like cancer (and the side

With the current global market value for

effects of chemotherapy), epilepsy and seizures,

medicinal cannabis estimated at USD8.28 billion

post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), glaucoma,

– and expected to reach USD27 billion by 2024,

dementia, Alzheimer’s, autism, fibromyalgia and a

the medical cannabis industry holds formidable

range of auto-immune diseases.

economic development potential for South Africa.

SAHPRA’s granting of the license sets in

‘Afriplex and our strategic partner, House of

HOUSE OF HEMP, a strategic partner of Afriplex, has

motion a process that will eventually see

Hemp, are extremely honoured to be associated with

received its Cannabis cultivation license from the

the standardisation and proper scientific

the first Cannabis License from SAHPRA,’ says Danie

South African Health Products Regulatory Authority

formulation, dosage requirements and

Nel, Afriplex CEO. ‘The teams have worked tirelessly

(SAHPRA). This is a historical milestone for South

combinations of cannabinoids for medical

over the last seven years to ensure we meet local

Africa to become an active and innovative player

purposes. It not only offers the opportunity to

standards and the legislative requirements and

in the budding cannabis market. It also marks a

improve the lives of patients with life-challenging

quality standards of international markets. Being

positive move forward by SAHPRA to encourage

conditions in a safe and effective way, but

the first in South Africa to receive this accreditation

the development of the medical cannabis and

also to enhance the general wellbeing of a

enables us to actively pursue expansion into the

cannabidiol (CBD) sector.

larger community of patients struggling with

global cannabis market.’

6

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

NEWS

Beauty festival rocks Sandton Convention Centre ON 6 AND 7 April, the first ever Festival was an Instagram and beauty festival in Africa, Beauty shopping heaven, yet its focus lies in Revolution Festival took place creating a strong platform for beauty in Johannesburg at Sandton with a purpose, daring to care for all Convention Centre. shades and shapes in between.

The two-day festival gave guests the You can be a part of the revolution chance to shop some of the world’s by following @beautyrevolution_za biggest brands in beauty, lifestyle on Instagram or by connecting with and personal care and provided a the organisers on their website, www. playground for the country’s hottest beautyrevolution.co.za. influencers, media and content creators to flourish.

On Sunday, 7 April 1 Johannesburg’s queen of rap Nadia Nakai featured on the main stage to perform hit songs to the few thousand guests in attendance.

Beauty Revolution Festival was also filled with meaningful discussions by powerhouse panellists ThickLeeYonce, Pearl Thusi and 2 Leanne Dlamini while intimate makeup artist masterclasses featured Mihlali Ndamase, Marco Louis and Rushana Isaacs.

Deemed an annual event, Beauty Revolution

3

1: A makeup masterclass at the Beauty Revolution Festival 2: The first ever Beauty Revolution Festival 3: An aerial view of the expo floor

+27 (0)11 553 2300

THE VERTICALLY INTEGRATED provider of naturally derived ingredients has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Textron Plimon Natural Oils Business (Textron).

Textron is a leading manufacturer, processor and specialty formulator of natural oils for the personal care, food and chemical industries. Located near Barcelona in Granollers, Spain, Textron operates out of a state of the art manufacturing facility, which sources oils and seeds worldwide. Its product portfolio includes cosmetics oils, formulations of Evoils, food oils, bismuth derivatives, cosmetics ingredients and preservatives.

As part of the transaction, Textron will supplement its Spanish distribution business (Plimon), which will remain with the prior ownership group and continue distributing products for Textron.

‘The acquisition of Textron supports our commitment to strategically grow and expand the value we bring our customers in natural oils. This strategic combination builds on Vantage’s existing leadership position in jojoba oil.

It also establishes Vantage and Textron as premier providers of natural oils to broaden and complement our speciality ingredient solutions for evolving trends in personal care and food,’ comments Andy Harris, CEO of Vantage.

‘This is an exceptional combination of people and natural products, which will provide significant benefits for both companies and most importantly our customers,’ says Martin Lascorz, owner and CEO of Textron, who will continue to work with the combined entities. ‘With the support from Vantage, Textron is well positioned to meet the growing needs of customers and to continue to bring expanded opportunities to employees. We are delighted to be a part of the Vantage family.’

Textron’s world-class production facility and focus on vegetable oils is a natural fit with Vantage’s current portfolio.

Serge Rogasik, senior VP of Vantage’s Personal Care business, adds, ‘The acquisition will create a global leader in the increasingly demanding world of traceable and sustainable natural oils for personal care. It will also allow us to better serve the evermore stringent sourcing needs of our combined customer base.’

Textron is the fourth add-on acquisition Vantage has completed since H.I.G. acquired the Company in October 2017. The transaction is expected to close by June.

International subject expert

25 170 ISO

REGISTER ONLINE www.microsep.co.za/DI

VANTAGE SIGNS DEAL TO ACQUIRE TEXTRON

11 nnex A U E

CT: 18 July 2019 The River Club Registration closes 10 July 2019

11 part R F 21 C

Data

e urat

Acc

+ OA ALC

JHB: 15/16 July 2019 Emperors Palace PE: 17 July 2019 Elizabeth Place

Dr. Bob McDowall

ple Com

DATA INTEGRITY SEMINAR 2019 P C Review | MAY 2019 |

7

NEWS

IMPERIAL LOGISTICS named among ‘Companies

to Inspire Africa’ THE LONDON STOCK Exchange Group has recognised Imperial Logistics’ healthcare business in Nigeria, Worldwide Healthcare, as one of the 2019 ‘Companies to Inspire Africa’.

This is one of several accolades recently bestowed on Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division.

Johan Truter, CEO of Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division, notes Worldwide Healthcare’s proud position on the London Stock Exchange Group’s Companies to Inspire Africa Report is a tribute to the hard work of the entire Worldwide Healthcare team. ‘Making it on to this prestigious list of Africa’s most inspirational high growth businesses is a significant accomplishment in the current challenging market conditions. It is the result of stellar efforts of the leadership and all the employees at Worldwide Healthcare.’

London Stock Exchange Group is a British-based stock exchange and financial information company.

This year marked the second edition of its Companies to Inspire Africa Report, published in collaboration with PricewaterhouseCoopers, African Development Bank Group, the UK’s development finance institution CDC Group and research partner, Asoko Insight.

‘We publish this report as it is our belief these firms are crucial to the future of the African economy and capable of driving transformative economic growth in their home countries and beyond,’ explains London Stock Exchange Group CEO, David Schwimmer.

Other recent accolades garnered by Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division include a Distributor of the Year award for its pharmaceutical distributor business in Kenya.

Truter comments: ‘Surgipharm has been named Distributor of the Year in Anglophone Africa by the global health and hygiene company, Essity.’

In another achievement in East Africa, the Kenya Revenue Authority presented Imperial Logistics’ Managed Solutions business with a top taxpayer’s award.

‘This annual award recognises businesses for exemplary tax compliance. We were very honoured to have the trophy presented by the President of the Republic of Kenya, His Excellency Honourable Uhuru Kenyatta, to Imperial Managed Solutions’ East Africa finance director Martin Mbugua,’ Truter comments.

FAST AND ACCURATE UV/ VIS SPECTROPHOTOMETRY METTLER TOLEDO’S UV/VIS Excellence instruments are suitable for a wide range of applications. They are equipped with predefined methods for pharma, chemical, food and beverage as well as life sciences and biotechnology industries.

Enjoy easy operation with the One Click user interface and flexible operation on the standalone instrument, or with LabX 2019 software.

Performance verification is conveniently automated with the CertiRef module and completed within a few minutes.

The UV5Nano spectrophotometer combines two instruments in one for micro-volume (DNA, RNA, protein work) and cuvette based measurements

8

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

UV/VIS Excellence instruments offer an array based spectrophotometer with long lasting xenon flash lamp to deliver a spectrum scan over the complete wavelength range within seconds and without warm-up time.

FastTrack technology speeds up UV/VIS measurements significantly.

Within seconds, the UV/VIS spectrophotometers measure colour in transmittance in multiple colour scales and numbers. Spectra and colour can be measured simultaneously. The most common colour scales supported are CIE L*a*b* and Luv, Tristimulus, Lab according to Hunter, Chromaticity (x, y), APHA, Pt/Co, Hazen, Yellowness Index, Saybolt, Gardner, EBC, ASBC and Hess-Ives.

The combination of predefined methods and InMotion sample changers automate the analysis of up to 303 spectrophotometric samples. The samples are transferred to the instrument with a peristaltic pump and measured in a flow-through cell, providing the user with a fully automated workflow, including the cleaning steps.

The CuveT thermostat accurately regulates the temperature of samples within a range of four to 95°C in 10mm cuvettes, typically required for temperature sensitive analysis and kinetics studies.

LabX 2019 software creates a secure lab data integrity solution. It allows for complete customisation of UV/VIS workstations to the workflow in the lab and supports compliance with regulations such as 21 CFR Pt 11.

President of the Republic of Kenya, Uhuru Kenyatta presents the award for exemplary tax compliance in 2018 to Martin Mbugua, finance director of Imperial Managed Solutions for East Africa Recoginition of Worldwide Healthcare, an Imperial Logistics company, inclusion in the London Stock Exchange’s 2019 Companies to Inspire Africa Report

Sorbet launches aesthetics concept store THE SORBET GROUP has launched a cosmetically advanced brand and future-forward space for skin, Sorbet SK-N. Designed as an elegant, exclusive store that offers premium skin treatments for tired, ageing or damaged skin, Sorbet SK-N specialises in advanced cosmetic treatments for dermatological concerns with rapid and significant results.

Globally recognised brands, such as Exuviance, Visia and Dr. Schrammek are flagship products in this new concept store, which also offers a broad variety of peels, botox, laser technology, Dermapen applications and laser hair removal treatments.

‘We are incredibly excited about the opening of Sorbet SK-N, our first aesthetics store in Johannesburg. We sincerely believe in beautiful skin, no matter your age or life history. This is a first for Sorbet and we are anticipating a positive response,’ says Sorbet Group, marketing manager, Sapna Naran.

Off the back of 15 year’s successful growth, the Sorbet Group has shown remarkable innovation with its brother and sister brands like Sorbet Man, Sorbet Drybar and Candi & Co. Today, it’s still dubbed one of South Africa’s best loved brands for positive grooming journeys.

‘We want that Sorbet feeling to continue at Sorbet SK-N, for the more discerning guest who demands more from their skin and their timelines.

With world class treatments, exclusive products and genuine care and support from our skin care experts, we are confident Sorbet SK-N will deliver the right “feels”, for the right clientele,’ adds Naran.

The Sami-Sabinsa Group’s Nelamangala biotechnology site

NEWS

The World’s No. 1 Trade Fair for Plastics and Rubber

USP GMP STATUS AWARDED TO SABINSA’S BIOTECH SITE THE SAMI-SABINSA Group’s Nelamangala biotechnology site in Bengaluru, India has been audited by the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) and received a GMP compliance certificate. This recognises the GMP quality systems in operation at the site which meet requirements established in 21 CFR Part 117 Current Good Manufacturing Practice, Hazard Analysis and Risk-Based Preventive Controls for Human Food, and USP-NF General Chapter 2 750 Manufacturing Practices for Dietary Supplements for Dietary Ingredient Manufacturing.

Sabinsa’s probiotics, enzyme blends and supercritical fluid extractions of various botanicals are produced at this site.

Dr Muhammed Majeed, Sabinsa founder, comments: ‘While we always encourage customers to visit us in India and see our five manufacturing facilities for themselves, we realise it’s not possible for everyone. Participating in the USP GMP audit programme is another way we can assure customers of our steadfast commitment to producing quality ingredients. Our other facilities are scheduled

o f

for USP auditing in the near future.’

John Atwater, senior director of USP Verification Services, adds: ‘USP is pleased to recognise Sabinsa’s successful completion of the USP quality systems GMP audit programme for this site. This demonstrates Sabinsa’s commitment

H o m e I n n o v a t i o n .

K 2 0 1 9

to quality and to operating GMP quality systems for the manufacture of dietary ingredients in compliance with officially recognised requirements.’

USP’s GMP audit programme helps dietary ingredient manufacturers reduce risks and ensure compliance with GMP requirements. It also provides them with a way to differentiate and qualify their manufacturing facilities and operations in an increasingly competitive global market.

The programme includes annual audits of a manufacturing site’s quality systems compliance with GMPs. Having received recognition from USP, Sabinsa earned a USP quality systems GMP audited certificate and it has been added to USP’s website www.usp.org/verification-services/gmp-audit-program, a resource for finished product manufacturers to identify ingredient manufacturers that have earned the right to use the USP audited good manufacturing practices mark.

No matter what your focus is – circular economy, digitalisation, Industry 4.0,

PRESTIGE AIRLESS DISPENSER

lightweight

construction,

manufacturing,

advanced

additive materials

or other forward-looking topics in the A TWIST UP airless dispenser from the RPC Bramlage division gives the desired shelf appeal to one of Italy’s top-selling and long-established skin care brands. BioNike Defence Man Energise revitalising cream-gel and Defence Man Repower anti-ageing serum are packaged in the 50mℓ Twist Up. The two- tone decoration, with Bordeaux red at the base merging with black at the top, is silkscreen printed with shaded lacquering to create a distinctive and high-quality finish, which reflects the prestige nature of the products.

The airless technology of the Twist Up packaging helps to protect the natural ingredients used to formulate the cream-gel and serum, maintaining their efficacy throughout the self-life of the products.

Twist Up technology works by turning the upper part of the dispenser to reveal the dispensing head. The dispenser offers consistent controlled dosing and hygienic application of the creams and closes in the ‘down’ position to protect the contents. A clicking sound adds to the consumer’s experience by confirming the dispenser has been opened and closed properly. The overall pack mimics the appearance of a conventional over-capped dispenser, complementing and creating a family look with other products in the range.

global plastics and rubber industry – K 2 019 i s t h e p l a c e t o b e t o s c o u t f o r new solutions. The fascinating forum for innovation and investment. The industry’s most important business platform. Around 3,200 international exhibitors

offer

you

the

latest

in

r e s e a r c h a n d d e v e l o p m e n t . We l c o m e to the show! www.k -online.com/ticketing

Southern African – German Chamber of Commerce and Industry NPC 47 Oxford Road _ Forest Town, Johannesburg P.O. Box 87078 _ Houghton 2041 Tel. +27 (0)11 486 2775 _ Fax +27 (0)86 675 21 75 tradefairs@germanchamber.co.za

www.germanchamber.co.za

kmd1902_IV_88,5x262+3_ZA.indd 1

| 9 15:43 P C Review | MAY 2019 17.04.19

DIARY

WHAT'S ON IN

June

RE V IE W

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

SOUTH AFRICAN

2019

Africa Automation Fair

4 to 6 June Ticketpro Dome, Johannesburg www.africaautomationfair.com

Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of SA AGM

2019 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

6 June Emperors Palace Convention Centre, Gauteng www.aerosol.co.za

Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468.

SAPICS Annual Conference & Expo

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR

2 YEAR

Food Review Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R846

Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R550

R550 R996

9 to 12 June Century City Conference Centre, Cape Town www.conference.sapics.org

R846 R1515

CPhI & P-MEC China 2019

18 to 20 June SNIEC, Shanghai, China www.cphi.com/china

Full Name:...........................................................................................

Designation: ........................................................................................

Company: ...........................................................................................

in-cosmetics Korea

Postal Address:...................................................................................

26 to 28 June Seoul, Korea korea.in-cosmetics.com

.................................................................Code:.................................

Country: ..............................................................................................

Approximate number of employees: ..................................................

July

VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists.

Signature:............................................................................................

9 to 11 July Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand www.analytica-africa.com

Tel: (

)....................................... Fax: (

) ..................................

E-mail:.................................................................................................

Main activity of company:...................................................................

Please select your preferred method of payment:

❑

Direct Deposit (Complete and email this form to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

Payee:

Bank:

Acc No:

New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

❑

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................

Expiry Date: ................................................................................

Card Number: .............................................................................

CVC Number...............................................................................

Date: ...........................................................................................

Signature:....................................................................................

❑

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only.

International rates available on request.

10

| MAY | P C| Review FEBRUARY 2019 2019 P C Review

analytica Lab Africa

KZN Industrial Technology Expo 2019 24 to 26 July Durban Expo Centre, KZN www.kznindustrial.co.za

Cosmoprof North America

28 to 30 July Mandala Bay Convention Centre, USA

August Plastics, Printing, Packaging Africa 2019 1 to 3 August Kenyatta International Convention Centre, Kenya www.expogr.com/kenyappp

Coschem Ladies Day

14 August Avianto, Muldersdrift, Gauteng

STREET 1 1 Juice for you skin Cold Pressed Skin is part of the new generation of consumers, living in an age where the words ‘health’ and ‘conscious’ are used together rather than separately. These consumers already integrate plant-based juicing into their daily routines. Inspired by nature and happy skin, the Skin Co combined science and superfoods to create a sustainable, plant-based superfood skin care range, consisting of face and body care products.

2 Sculpt your curves!

New from optiphi, Body Curve Sculpting Repair targets the underlying causes of cellulite. This results-driven skin rejuvenating treatment supports the reduction of stubborn fat deposits by increasing the intercellular energy, while tightening and firming the tissue. The

3

treatment-based body product is formulated with novel actives and extracts, including Plankton Extract, Plasma Rich Rockbreaker Plant Cell Factor, Retinol to address sun damage and the visible signs of ageing, as well as Hesperidin and Soya Isoflavone.

3 A splash of carrot and tea tree

Earthsap face washes are free from preservatives,

2

petrochemicals, synthetic fragrances, dyes and SLS. There are two variants, Earthsap Garden Carrot Face Wash and Earthsap Tea Tree Face Wash, and their ingredients are biodegradable and eco-friendly. Earthsap products are sold online via Wellness Warehouse and Faithful to Nature, in health shops nationwide and in selected Spars and Pick n Pays.

4 Beautiful, like the rain Rain Skincare makes its international skin care debut with a new collection of multi-ethnic natural face care products. The range harnesses the power of wild harvested African botanicals integrated with probiotics to maintain skin health. The products were launched in South Africa, Ireland and the USA in April. Th range includes natural cleansers, toners, serums and creams suitable for every step of the consumer’s daily skincare regime.

The products are naturally fragranced with essential oils and specially formulated to maintain and support the natural structure of the skin.

4 P C Review | MAY 2019 |

11

COMPANY FOCUS

H&R Africa’s secrets of superior service

Since the global group was launched 100 years ago, H&R has maximised the quality of its customer service to differentiate the organisation from its competition. H&R Africa’s recipe for success is no different – quality customer service is the currency that keeps the company moving. raw materials from all over the world.

Managing financial indices is also a key requirement for manufacturers, which do not have the benefit of an import/ export balance of payments.

As a result, it’s becoming more and more complex to service the personal care industry. Fortunately for organisations such as H&R Africa, decades of experience and expertise enable the company to produce

H&R Africa has enjoyed great organic growth with its customers

sustainable business results and maintain a ‘value-adding and reliable supplier’ position in the industry.

Challenging times Recent years have seen local personal care brand owners and manufacturers face increasing competition from imported finished products. This trend has evolved from the demands placed on manufacturers to produce low cost products whilst having to maintain consistent quality to counter the

A

challenges of South Africa’s economic ccording to H&R Africa,

instability. These challenges include

the South African personal

an increasing unemployment rate,

care manufacturing

rising inflation costs and a decline

industry is characterised

in personal disposable income. The

by a number of manufacturers and

latter has had a significant impact on

suppliers, spread across well-known and

the average consumer’s spend and

trusted multinationals to independent,

consumers’ spending behaviour

owner-operated companies. The

in general.

pool of manufacturers appears to be

Product placement has also led to

facing similar challenges, ranging

increased competition in the market

from statutory, quality and systems

with major South African retailers,

compliance to the ever-evolving pursuit

making it relatively difficult for a

of a low-cost competitive advantage.

number of SMEs. As a result, most SMEs are exploring export opportunities

Value-adding and reliable Operationally, supply chain is a vital

12

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

through independent supermarkets.

H&R Africa is also seeing interesting

factor to the personal care industry

movements among multinationals,

due to the complexities of importing

with several key players expanding

COMPANY FOCUS

The H&R Africa team based in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal

The H&R Africa team based at Mobeni, in KwaZulu-Natal

into African countries. Various

plants and technical capabilities.

acquisitions of known brands have

H&R Africa has enjoyed

also occurred to diversify and strengthen the position of multinational companies in emerging markets.

Multinationals may be adopting these strategies in pursuit of driving down the costs of products to reach unfamiliar markets, or to raise quality standards within a

great organic growth with

DID YOU KNOW?

its customers which has prompted the company to invest

H&R Africa has launched a in new capacities. generic grade of Petroleum These investments Jelly, aimed at servicing a are aimed at wider range of applications at servicing existing a relatively low cost. Please connect with a H&R Africa and new business business manager to enquire in the African and about this product and Middle East regions. its benefits.

given market.

SUSTAINABILITY AND BIO-NATURAL SOLUTIONS

Other important

factors contributing to the industry’s resilience are

H&R Africa recognises the importance of sustainability and the need for conserving our planet. Through its Techno-Vative projects, the company has developed a range of non-fossil based raw materials for personal care applications.

These bio-natural products offer enhanced performance for customer-specific applications and are derived from renewable plant-based sources.

Considerable uptake of these bio-natural products has mainly been in Europe, North America and parts of Asia. While there is great interest in these products and their value to sustainability, throughout Africa, there has been

Market ready solutions

technology and innovation. These

Consumers’ dwindling brand

factors are seeing manufacturers

loyalty is a reality for premium

shifting from selling off the shelf

brands as more and more

products to customer-specific

consumers are leaning towards

solutions, ensuring raw materials

become extensions to existing product lines

perceivably cheaper products.

and final products always meet

instead of replacements.

There is also a growing demand

the functional and aesthetic

a slow start to their uptake due to the high costs associated with using them as replacements or alternatives to fossil-based products. Yet great opportunities exist if these bio-natural products

H&R Africa will continue to invest in renewable,

for personal care products that

requirements of customers and

plant-based raw materials because the company

cater to distinctive demographics

end consumers.

strongly believes the African market will eventually

and climates. These trends have

As a supplier of raw materials

accept change. In the next couple of years, it should be in a position to afford such bio-

seen various brand owners and

for the personal care industry,

manufacturers introducing niche

H&R Africa has responded

private brands to bridge the

to manufacturers’ demands

gaps where larger, major players

for cost-effective products.

have been slow at meeting

The company does this by

and to enable quicker order filling.

these demands.

continuously managing the costs

This requires great lengths of flexibility

of raw materials to ensure they

in terms of sourcing and production

A resilient industry

are reduced to sufficient levels.

planning. It necessitates all role players

South Africa’s personal care

This enables H&R Africa to offer

in the organisation to operate at the

industry has proven to be quite

competitive pricing to its customers

highest levels of agility in pursuit of

resilient, despite challenging

and to ensure it maintains its

delighting its customers.•

economic times. Positive growth

current market position.

is still expected in the mid to

natural products.

H&R Africa continues to engage

long term range, due to new

in diversified strategic sourcing to

investments in manufacturing

ensure the availability of products

H&R Africa – sasales@hur.com

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

13

Diversity in beauty celebrated in Paris In-cosmetics Global welcomed more than 12 000 visitors through its doors from 2 to 4 April as the trade show made a return to Paris, France – its spiritual home.

E

vident in the indie trail, innovation

topics. The themed days are part of the

zone, sustainability corner and

new initiatives launched by the organiser,

formulation challenge, this year’s

Specialised Exhibitions Montgomery.

show reflected the dynamic beauty

Another new initiative is the Seminar Theatre,

market and the shift towards embracing diversity. Implementing sustainable practices

taking place in Hall 7.

Packaging for the future, packaging 4.0,

was also a key theme at in-cosmetics Global

top consumer trends, Africa insights, an

2019, where organisers engaged visitors with

overview of the South African packaging

the great variety of new aspects to the show.

market, barriers to recycling plastics waste,

In-cosmetics also saw the launch of the

the new dimension in digital printing,

inaugural Global Beauty Day on 3 April to

and packaging design versus product

bring together beauty brands from all over

information are some of the seminar topics

the world to honour diversity in beauty.

available to visitors.

The move aims to celebrate inclusivity as

The new themed days will see day

changing consumer demands force R&D

one focusing on new products; two will

professionals and manufacturers to think

centre on sustainability; three will put the

outside the box.

spotlight on skills development; and day

In line with the diversity in beauty theme,

four will be a ‘local is lekker’ day where

three round-table discussions took place

the South African Propak Africa brand

to foster open discussions among industry

and local manufacturers and products

professionals on:

will be celebrated.

• lifestyle choices such as vegan, halal, allnatural and environmentally friendly

SOUTH AFRICAN PAVILION SPONSORED BY THE Department of Trade and Industry, Zuplex Botanicals, Herbs-Aplenty, Everpix African Oils and Ayanda African Oils featured on the South African pavilion at incosmetics Global 2019

• LGBTQ+ identity, exploring beyond the gender boundaries

Spotlight on R&D The demand for beauty products continues to grow despite economic instability. The

• skin types and colours.

global cosmetics market is expected to

Each conversation explored the way

garner US$429.8 billion by 2022, registering

consumer choices are influencing the

a CAGR of 4.3 percent during the forecast

development of cosmetic products from

period 2016 to 2022, according to Allied

ingredients to marketing.

Market Research. Mintel lists the key trends

As the inaugural Global Beauty Day was

driving growth as personalisation, digital,

a resounding success, it will return annually

naturals and marketing campaigns that

on the second day of the show, to get under

draw on a brand’s ‘personality’.

the skin of topical issues with the industry’s leading forward thinkers.

In-cosmetics Global offered the perfect platform to inform R&D professionals about these trends and inspire new thinking

14

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

New initiatives

around them, with a packed itinerary of

For the first time ever, Propak Africa will offer

must-attend sessions and show areas.

daily, free to attend seminars. These will be

One of these features was the R&D Tours,

presented by expert speakers with content

which took in major show features such

aligned to the show’s ‘four days, four themes’

as the Innovation Zone and Sensory Bar

TWO GOLDS FOR VYTRUS

A SOUTH AFRICAN IN PARIS Marcel van Rooyen, sales director: South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa, Symrise cosmetic ingredient division with Delia Greeff of Skin Rejuvenation Technologies

Delia Greeff, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies’ professional brand

The Spanish producer of active ingredients, Vytrus Biotech was awarded the Gold Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient Award and the Gold Green Award at in-cosmetics Global 2019. The company also received a

executive, attended in-

CosmeticsDesign Beauty Industry

cosmetics Global as the

Award in the category Best Use of

winner of the 2018

an Ingredient (Quora Nori PRCF)

P C Review /Symrise

in a Finished Product (Serum

New Product Competition.

Perfect Touch).

Her experience on the exhibition was ‘mind-

The Gold Innovation Zone Best

blowing’! ‘The exhibition was well organised,

Ingredient Award was bestowed

exhibitors were insightful and offered so many

on Vytrus’ new active ingredient,

new innovative active ingredients, technologies

Olea Vitae. Vytrus’ ingredient was

and delivery systems,’ says Greeff. ‘I attended

chosen among 14 finalists for

exciting marketing trends workshops and technical

combining innovative science,

seminars, live demonstrations at many of the

and product features in a way

exhibitor stands and I went on a guided R&D tour.

that demonstrates substantial

I met the most interesting and passionate people and their local suppliers and left the threeday exhibition with an overload of information. I am so proud to be part of this brilliant industry,

The Vytrus Biotech team photographed at the 2019 Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards

striving to provide consumers with the safest and

cosmetics industry. This category of

most effective cosmetics.’

brands saw a 659 percent increase

Greeff extended a massive thank you to Symrise for sponsoring this experience.

in retail volume in 2017, illustrating its popularity and importance.

In-cosmetics produced the Indie Trail

benefits to manufacturers and end-users when compared to existing ingredients.

Olea Vitae is a powerful revitaliser of mature skin. It fights energetic ageing using a new mechanism of action – stimulation of the mitochondrial synapses. The active is produced using plant stem cells of Mediterranean wild olive tree sprouts and an exclusive technology, which extracts the essence of the lipids from the plant cell membrane to obtain Phyto-Lipidic Fractions (PLF). This ‘cellular oil’ replicates the

Aimed. The tours were aimed specifically

Guide to help indie developers connect

activity of cellular lipids, protects and optimises the energy

at R&D professionals and led by leading

with suppliers willing to provide smaller

of skin’s cells, and increases the production of structural

technical consultant and international

ingredient quantities to suit production

proteins to revive the skin.

cosmetics chemist, Rouah Al-Wakeel.

volumes up to 100kg. The time-saving

Each tour introduced formulators to select

guide helped small brands navigate the

exhibitor stands relevant to the tour topic,

show to forge important connections with

which included:

relevant exhibitors.

1. protection sponsored by IMCD 2. healthy ageing sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry Group 3. preservation sponsored by Symrise.

Indie trail and sustainability corner

With sustainability ranking high up in consumer thinking – and likewise feeding

for Sarcoslim Re-Shape, launched during 2018, which introduces the concept of lipo-sculpting. It is produced from Sarcocapnos crassifolia, a plant found south of the Iberian Peninsula which is close to extinction. Through Vytrus’ sustainable plant biotechnology programme, the company

sponsored by Cargill, featured 20 pods of

has established a conservation project of the plant species

sustainable ingredients, or supply chain

in collaboration with the University of Jaen.

on the environment.

increasingly influential in the global

difference in the area of sustainability. Vytrus won the award

into R&D – the sustainability corner,

projects, which have had a positive effect

Pioneering indie brands have become

The Gold Green Award at in-cosmetics is given to an ingredient that makes a significant environmental or social

Toshihiko Shimoda, technology scout, R&D at Beiersdorf, comments:

These three awards come at a perfect time as the company is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. They also recognise the innovative spirit and excellence of Vytrus, which believes cosmetics should not only be innovative, effective and safe, but also eco-conscious and sustainable.

Partnerships though Innovation Suppliers of

Active pharmaceutical ingredients Exipients Natural extracts Anti microbials & disinfectants Natural additives with claims

Rheology modifiers Haircare actives Surfactants Stearates Acids & bases Water treatment products Technical back up Innovation offerings

Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 | East London (043) 726 8713 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981 BETTER TOGETHER

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

15

of the cosmetics industry. I was a big fan

Omya’s natural ingredients with added value

of the sustainability corner. I liked the

Omya Consumer Goods,

layout and concept as a whole. It’s great

represented by CJP

in-cosmetics is clearly addressing the

Chemicals, focused on

issue of sustainability.’

Omyaskin minerals for

‘Sustainability is the most important part

Green ingredients from Symrise

decorative applications.

The unique

Symrise presented new cosmetics

composition of these

ingredients, SymReboot L19, SymLite G8,

pure, bright minerals

three oils from the African continent and

originating in Provence

SymHair Shape & Color, emphasising its

(France), and their high

sustainable approach.

porosity and large surface

‘Today, many consumers choose

belief that sustainable beauty is all about skin health and nutrition.

The first two actives co-

DID YOU KNOW?

developed with Sytheon as well as three new

plant-based ingredients In-cosmetics Global 2019 brought together over 800 were promoted at international exhibitors in-cosmetics. These and representatives from 10 products focus on 000 cosmetics brands and manufacturers worldwide. improving sensorial The exhibition will be back benefits combining in 2020 in Barcelona, Spain, from 31 March hydration, smooth to 2 April. and lasting protection for

area, allows for enhanced textures

both hair and skin, and offer

cosmetics produced in an environmentally

and upgraded effectiveness

moisturising and skin barrier

and resource friendly way. These properties

in various applications. The

repair benefits.

are an important principle for our product

ingredient offers maximum

development,’ says Dr Daniel Ibarra, vice

absorbency qualities, strong

president EAME at Symrise. ‘We have been

opacity for perfect coverage and

Seppic’s new body care collection

following this sustainable path for many

leaves a pleasant skin feel.

According to Seppic, consumers are

years and can therefore supply suitable

For skin care formulations,

becoming more demanding of body

cosmetic ingredients.’

With SymReboot L19, Symrise presents

Omyacare natural calcium

a probiotics-based cosmetic ingredient,

various sizes and exterior structures

opening new perspectives for the care of

to suit multiple purposes.

sensitive skin.

Made from sustainably sourced raw

care products, so the company

carbonate particles are available in

The flexibility of Omyaskin minerals and Omyacare natural calcium

materials, SymLite G8 naturally enhances

carbonate was demonstrated

the skin caring effect of cosmetics while

in applications such as lipsticks,

improving their shelf life. It naturally

foundations, eye shadows, body

supports the product protection system,

lotions and soap bars.

strengthens the skin barrier and, as a coemulsifier, helps to stabilise oil-inwater emulsions.

Symrise’s African Oil Collection is also

Roquette and Sytheon partnership Roquette, represented locally by

brand new and includes organic Baobab-

Orkila South Africa, unveiled a new

oil from Tanzania, Cosmos-certified

direction in its ambitious strategy.

Moringa-oil from Kenya und Organic

The company is expanding Beauté

has launched a Body’licious

Tamanu-oil from Madagascar.

by Roquette – its specialised

collection in line with the latest

high-performing, natural-based

industry trends. With these eight

ingredients portfolio for cosmetics

formulations, brands will be able to

– which is made possible through

take consumers on a sensorial and

At in-cosmetics, Delfin revealed its

its strategic partnership with

inspiring journey. Hydration is the first

expanded product range as a global

Sytheon. Ingredients in this

functional claim in body care.

Aurora skin imaging technology

distributor of the Aurora. The Aurora is a superior imager for extensive facial skin analysis and for recommending

portfolio include a plant-based microbiota-balancing

Consumers expect fresh textures that dry quickly and fit easily into

active, a plant-based

their morning routine. Seppic has

water-soluble film

developed a fresh body yoghurt,

forming agent and

which is a food-inspired,

skin care products

Cosmos approved

97.6 percent biodegradable

at the point of

plant-based

emulsion. It contains Emogreen

sale. Cosmetics

humectants and

L15 to provide excellent glide

brands, aesthetic

texturisers.

during application and a

clinics, spas and pharmacies would benefit from the Aurora by providing information on the effects of treatments

The partnership enables Roquette Beauté to benefit from a network of expertise.

Fully in line with Roquette’s

powdery-soft finish. The pleasant yoghurt jelly texture is obtained with a combination of agar agar and Sepimax Zen. Aquaxyl and Equibiome provide hydration

over time, ultimately to keep their

positioning and growth strategy,

and restore balance to the

clients loyal.

the move springs from Roquette’s

skin microbiota. •

16

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

Launched a new product in 2018/19

Make a

Statement about it

2019

New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y . V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 2 8 1

IMCD has the perfect solution for you Launched at in-cosmetics Global, IMCD South Africa’s principals offer innovative solutions to help brand owners and manufacturers produce sustainable, high quality and eco-friendly hair, skin and personal care products.

CLR’s adaptogenic approach to skin health

Get hot hair with Ashland With the new Advantage Revive polymer, Ashland brings a

Obtained from an edible South American fruit, Annona

much needed refresher to the dry shampoo category. The

cherimola, AnnonaSense CLR from CLR Berlin is proven to

polymer is based on a unique polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

establish a sustainable homeostatic balance in the skin. This

chemistry process. It leaves hair feeling cleaner and looking

highly effective and sustainable active ingredient activates the

shinier with enhanced lustre to match the appearance of freshly

CB2 receptor, supporting the body’s endocannabinoid system

washed hair. Advantage Revive can be used in aerosol and

(ECS). Inflammatory processes induced by the TRPV1 receptor,

non-aerosol dry shampoo applications.

part of the skin’s endovanilloid system (EVS), are reduced and a stable balance is established between ECS and EVS. Skin is less sensitive and more balanced with AnnonaSense

Ashland hair care team is also commemorating PVP’s 80th anniversary, celebrating the evolution of hair styles from the ’50s until today. It has created unique styling formulas that allow

CLR; even itchiness could perceivably be reduced. It also

consumers to re-create the classic ‘rockabilly’ look of the ’50s

improves the appearance of the skin, while a consumer

with a smooth control wax featuring AquaStyle 300 N, the mod

study showed the perception of well-being and quality of life

styles of the ’60s with Styleze 2000 polymer and the rocker hair of

were improved.

the ’80s with Styleze CC-10 polymer.

Expanded Belsil line from Wacker With its two new silicone resins, Belsil B 110 and Belsil R 220, Wacker is tapping into trends for controlling the reflective properties of skin, colour cosmetics and hair.

In day creams and foundations, the spherical particles of Belsil B 110 silicone resin fill out wrinkles or skin imperfections, creating an even skin appearance. They also scatter light to provide a matte finish. Belsil R 220 is a film-forming silicone resin designed for use in nail varnishes. It has a high refractive index resulting in a high gloss, water-resistant surface.

Wacker has also launched the new gum blend Belsil eco GB 1020, which is based on biomethanol. The gum blend acts as a conditioning agent to combat split ends. It can be formulated in hair masks and conditioners and is suitable for skin care applications, particularly skin softening lotions.

Grant Industries’ SiAPP elastomers There are many types of silicone-based ingredients, which Grant Industries says should not all be classified in the same way. For example, silicone reactive intermediates are very different from silicone elastomer polymers and silicone cyclic and linear fluids.

Featuring the combined benefits of nature and science, Grant Industries’ new SiAPP elastomer series provides formulators with enhanced compatibility of organic materials such as natural oils, butters and esters while maintaining the unique sensory characteristics, performance and skin safety imparted by silicones.

Offered in a range of volatile and non-volatile alkane fluids, all SiAPP elastomers are globally compliant, vegan friendly and unrelated to any palm or RSPO issues. The SiAPP elastomer series consists of four high performing materials: Gransil GVL-LITE; Gransil GVL-912, Gransil OGH and Gransil SUG.

18

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

VI ASPETTIAM O IN-COSMETIC S 2019

STAND E80

Resta al passo con le tendenze, fatti guidare dai nostri esperti e fai risplendere le tue formulazioni!

Unisciti a noi ad InCosmetics 2019.

Resta al passo con le tendenze, fatti guidare dai Keep up with the trends, guided by our experts nostri espertiyour e faiformulations risplendere le tue formulazioni! and make shine!

Unisciti a noi ad InCosmetics 2019.

Thank you for joining us at InCosmetics 2019.

SPA T:E:ana.dacosta@imcdsa.co.za +39 02 557091 E: info@imcd.it IMCD SA T:IMCD 011ITALIA 2932000 www.imcdgroup.com

ANTI-AGEING

Healthy skin is beautiful skin COSMETIC JAR RANGE

Though skin care brands still sell the idea of trying to look younger, anti-ageing vocabulary has changed drastically over the past few years.

Abby Vorster looks at how the healthy skin care trend and pro-ageing are impacting new ingredients on the market.

The rare honey bee, Apis mellifera mellifera

S

kin care brands have become markedly pro ageing. Instead of promising to reverse the signs of ageing – which they had been doing for ages – brands have shifted from anti-ageing messaging to focus more on skin health, sensitive skin issues and on ‘loving the skin

you’re in’. The latter is a worldwide movement in the skin care industry to help consumers feel good about their skin, ultimately building their confidence.

According to Mintel, sensitive skin affects half of all women across the globe and is causing more consumers to seek out gentler products that restore the skin’s natural barrier and deliver relief from irritation. Mintel’s global beauty and skin care analyst, Jo Lawlor, says consumers are looking for ‘hero’ ingredients to soothe their sensitive skin conditions. These include rosacea and eczema, which trigger emotional purchases and play a big role in pricing and shopping habits.

Black BeeOme from Mibelle Biochemistry, represented locally by Carst & Walker, is an elixir obtained by fermenting the honey of the rare and ancient honey bee species, Apis mellifera mellifera. The active is designed for the recovery of the individual skin microflora after stress which results in healthy, clear and pure skin.

Under normal conditions, the micro-biotic film protects the skin from harmful bacteria or pathogens. This film is constantly stressed by UV light, pollution, household chemicals, and cosmetics products or treatments.

Frequent washing of the skin, for example, can reduce and unbalance the skin’s ecosystem.

10/11 TradeHouse, 2 Mzimkhulu Dr, TradeZone, Dube TradePort, La Mercy, KZN, South Africa, 4409 www.teqal.co.za Sean Kirkham Marketing Director +27 (0) 82 469 1894

The honey of an extremely resistant and dark bee, produced in isolated Swiss mountain valleys, is fermented with the bacteria Zymomonas mobilis.

The fermentation process eliminates glucose, fructose and sucrose in the honey. The remaining long-chain sugars stabilise and promote the individual microflora of the skin, giving Black BeeOme its prebiotic effect. This effect is beneficial to restore the skin’s natural microbiota following daily stress.

20

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

ANTI-AGEING

Red seaweed, Asparagopsis armata

such as Glabridin. This is a natural extract of

protects young cells from senescence

promotes faster regeneration of the skin

the liquorice root, Glycyrrhiza glabra. It has

induced by the senescence messaging

flora after washing as well as restoration

a long history of traditional use and recently

secretome (SMS).

of the skin barrier. After a single 15 minute

attracted considerable attention in skin

application of a sheet mask formulated with

care. Even at low concentrations, Glabridin

in accelerate ageing, visible in wrinkle

Black BeeOme, volunteers living in urban,

promotes an even complexion and lightens

formation and a loss in skin’s firmness.

polluted locations noted a significant

pigmentation spots quickly and effectively.

Ageing generates senescent cells, which are

Studies have shown Black BeeOme

improvement of impure skin.

In its untreated form, Glabridin powder

Exposure to constant stress results

affected by functional and morphological

has poor solubility, both in oil and water,

modifications. These senescent cells release

Encapsulated Glabridin

and its industrial use is expensive because

SMS, which affects young neighbouring

Whitening or lightening in the context of skin

of its poor penetration. These challenges

cells, accelerating their ageing process. This

care has different connotations from one

make Glabridin dependent on a carrier

process is called ‘contagious ageing’.

continent to another. There is no universal

system in order to benefit fully from its

definition of the perfect whitening product

lightening effects. With the BergaBright

to reduce the contagious ageing effect on

for the end consumer, yet the market is

SmartLipids Glabridin, Berg + Schmidt has

young cells. By feeding on Asparagopsis

massive worldwide. Lightening or even

developed a lipid-encapsulated format that

armata, which contains mycosporine-like

tone skin care agents must be safe while

ensures a high degree of bioavailability.

amino acids (MAA), sea hares (marine

being effective.

The encapsulation also enables the active

animals) develop an intraspecific alarm

substance to penetrate deeper into the

through chemical communication based

Schmidt is a range of advanced whitening

skin and protects the Glabridin against

on MAA. Using a bio-inspired approach,

agents, which meet market requirements

degradation over a long period.

Seppic investigated whether the MAA might

BergaBright SmartLipids from Berg +

Aspar’age regulates the impact of SMS

also provide a skin benefit in the regulation

in terms of safety and efficacy while being easy to incorporate into a formulation.

With these innovations, Berg + Schmidt,

Contagious ageing

of cell-to-cell communication.

Through wesource, Seppic’s dedicated

To assess the efficacy of Aspar’age,

represented locally by Afrisil, applies a

brand for actives, the company presents

Seppic developed a new in vitro evaluation

patented process for the encapsulation

Aspar’age. This active ingredient extracted

model. The results showed Aspar’age

of active ingredients or natural lighteners,

from red seaweed, Asparagopsis armata,

is able to protect young cells from

©Unsplash

Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za

©Unsplash

wesourcebeauty.com

wesourcebeauty.com

ADIPOSLIM™

RHODYSTEROL™ S TG

ADIPOLESS™

SCULPTOSANE™

™ ™ S TG ADIPOSLIM RHODYSTEROL Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!

ADIPOLESS™

SCULPTOSANE™

Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

21

ANTI-AGEING senescence induced by SMS, offering the

Sinerga offers a complete range

solution to reduce contagious ageing. The

of personal care specialties, most of

that counteracts wrinkles and signs

active also contributes to improving the

them of natural origin or derived from

of ageing caused by daily stress. Its

skin’s appearance.

vegetables. Its more than 50 in house

rapid de-stressing action is said to be

cosmetics specialties are characterised

perceivable after seven days’ use in a

Development in Life Sciences, mentions:

by proven safety, efficacy and excellent

skin care product. Dolcevia is a natural

‘Bibliographic review has shown the

skin compatibility.

derivative suitable for anti-stress creams,

Catherine Kern, PhD, Innovation &

emergence of a new concept on

Its Hydrolysed Pea Protein is

Dolcevia is a pure active ingredient

mature skin care formulations and

contagious ageing where the senescent

characterised by the presence of fractions

cells were able to affect young cells

of hydrolysed proteins with different

by SMS. This knowledge inspired us

molecular weights. These work in synergy

Ahnfeltiopsis concinna, has proven

to propose the development of a

to achieve a complete protective and

film-forming, hydrating, softening and

new model of evaluation.’ Seppic is

moisturising activity that improves skin

moisturising benefits. Thanks to its high

represented throughout southern Africa

firmness and elasticity. Thanks to their

concentration of carrageenan, Red Alga

by CJP Chemicals.

ability to restore the skin’s integrity and

Gel performs a protective action on the

increase its water content, pea proteins

cutaneous layer to restore natural skin

Introducing Sinerga

improve skin’s elasticity by performing a

conditions. It also provides a fresh touch

Chempure has received a new agency

lifting and anti-ageing effect.

to skin care formulations and is suitable

agreement from Sinerga, subsequent

Azeloglicina is an active ingredient

to a very successful trip to Paris to

designed to illuminate the complexion.

attend in-cosmetics Global. Sinerga is

Thanks to its properties, it inhibits melanin

a contract manufacturer and cosmetic

synthesis and reduces cutaneous

ingredients supplier for the cosmetics

sebum production. It also improves skin

and dermo-pharmaceutical industries.

radiance, evenness, cutaneous elasticity

The company’s headquarters are based

and hydration. This active ingredient

in Italy, with branches in France, the USA

is suitable for greasy, seborrhoeic and

and Asia-Pacific.

dehydrated skin types.

green cosmetics.

Red Alga Gel, an extract of

for personal care products. •

Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Chempure – www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za

THE MUST ATTEND Home and Personal Care Ingredients Exhibition South Africa 04 – 05 SEPT 2019 | MIDRAND | RSA www.hpci-events.com/south-africa

IN CONJUNCTION WITH

>> gives brands and manufacturers exclusive access to all services required for product development

>> brings together suppliers from every point of the production chain >> shows new product ideas

ORGANISED BY:

Picture Credits: © edwardderule, Victoria, mimacz / Fotolia.com

| MAY 2019 | P 22 HPCI-SA19-Ad-PRINT.indd

1

C Review

18.04.19 17:10

ANTI-AGEING

Get radiant skin first thing in the morning Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Marine Vincendet and Raquel Delgado of Lipotec Active Ingredients have found a way

D

to combat the negative effects a busy lifestyle can have on the skin's appearance.

awnergy peptide, distributed in

JARID1a and clock genes were measured

the normal levels occurring in the

South Africa by Savannah Fine

at 07h30 and 11h30. At 07h30, with the

late morning without any treatment

Chemicals, is an energising

peptide treatment, protein levels of JARID1a

(see Figure 2).

and anti-ageing active to

resembled the levels obtained in the control

help awaken skin’s cells in the morning. It targets JARID1a, a protein that activates

at 11h30 (see Figure 1).

Consistent with the fact that JARID1a drives

Less signs of fatigue Two skin features associated with

the cell biological clock and regulates

the activity of the internal cellular clock in

biological rhythms and the appearance

circadian rhythms.

the morning, an increase in the expression of

of a tired complexion were analysed in a

Per3 at 07h30 was also observed, reaching

clinical study. The cutaneous blood flow

levels observed at 11h30 in the control.

was assessed by image analysis, whereas

Even after sleeping well, consumers can present complexion problems in the early morning. Skin’s appearance varies

eyebags’ volume was assessed by real

throughout the day, reflecting circadian

Mitochondrial revitalisation

rhythms, such as the barrier function (with

Dermal fibroblasts were treated with

optimum levels around noontime), hydration

Dawnergy peptide and the mitochondrial

treatment, microcirculation was found to

(lower early in the day compared to noon)

membrane potential determined by

increase by 2.1 percent while eyebags

or microcirculation (with low morning rates).

means of a dye-mediated detection

decreased by 9.7 percent from the early

Circadian rhythms are controlled by clock

assay. Treatment with the active ingredient

morning to four hours later.

genes, whose expression pattern fluctuates.

increased the membrane potential, which

During the day, CLOCK and BMAL promote

is linked to an enhanced mitochondrial

the volunteers applied an active cream

the expression of PER and CRY, among other

function and ATP synthesis.

each morning for seven days. They had

circadian proteins. PER and CRY regulate

3D microtopography.

In normal conditions, without any

To test the effect of Dawnergy peptide,

dinner together and a party and slept

their own expression at night, creating a

Better prepared skin

that night for four hours only. The next

loop that generates 24-hour oscillations.

Human 3D skin models were synchronised

morning, measurements performed

by temperature cycles and left untreated

after they awoke revealed a 7.0 percent

of histones in DNA, activates CLOCK and

(control) or incubated with Dawnergy

increase in microcirculation, which is

BMAL to enhance the expression of Per

peptide. Skin models were analysed for

essential to provide oxygen and nutrients

clock genes1. JARID1a is like a molecular

hydration at different times throughout

to skin cells, and a 16.9 percent reduction

switch that activates cells every morning.

the day by means of capacitance, and

in the volume of eyebags compared to

It has been shown to regulate genes

for ceramide levels by means of ultrahigh

the same time at the beginning of the

related to mitochondrial function. It can

performance liquid chromatography-

study (seven days earlier).

control mitochondrial activity and the

mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS).

JARID1a, through epigenetic modification

ability to produce ATP through oxidative phosphorylation, offering cell energisation2.

Accelerating the cellular Human keratinocytes were synchronised to

Treatment with the active ingredient led

Skin radiance and rejuvenation

to a 10 percent increase in hydration at

In an additional in vivo evaluation, female

07h30 compared to the control measured

volunteers aged between 31 and 46 were

at the same time of the day.

split into two groups. One group applied

The levels of ceramides increased by

a cream with the active ingredient in the

day-night rhythms by temperature changes

47.6 percent with the peptide treatment

morning, and a placebo cream at night.

and treated with Dawnergy peptide.

in skin analysed at 07h30, resembling

The second group applied a placebo

Figure 1: Levels of JARID1a protein (left) and clock gene Per3 (right) (*p<0.05, **p<0.01 and ****p<0.0001 versus the control at 07h30

24

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

ANTI-AGEING Figure 2: Hydration levels and percentage of ceramides in synchronised skin models at various times of the day (*p<0.05 and ****p<0.0001 versus the control at 07h30

cream both in the morning and at night.

Skin luminosity (L*) was determined by analysis of macrophotographs of the face and luminosity software was used to visualise the range of L* values in a colour map. Skin roughness was determined by image analysis.

visibility of crow’s feet wrinkles decreased by

Figure 3: Skin luminosity maps of one volunteer, before and after treatment

15.4 percent after 28 days of treatment. • REFERENCES 1. DiTacchio L, Le HD, Vollmers C, Hatori M et al. Histone lysine demethylase JARID1a activates CLOCK-BMAL1 and influences the circadian clock. Science. 30;333(6051):1881-5, 2011.

2. Liu X, Secombe J. The Histone Demethylase KDM5 Activates

After 28 days of applying the cream formulated with the peptide, the luminosity parameter increased by 3.5 percent, indicating skin could reflect more light and presented a more radiant appearance (see Figure 3). The coefficient of the

Gene Expression by Recognising Chromatin Context through Its PHD Reader Motif. Cell Rep. 13(10):2219-31, 2015.

Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.Lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

Radiant skin first thing in the morning

Advances the skin functions activation for a glowing radiant appearance even despite lack of sleep

Sin título-1 1

15/04/2019 16:11:41

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

25

ANTI-AGEING

Natural shield against ‘inflamm-ageing’ It can be challenging to effectively fight the signs of ageing in sensitive and reactive skin. With the unique and highly protective complex from Hallstar, Diam Oléoactif, it’s now possible to formulate anti-ageing treatments for sensitive skins.

T

hree main factors are

showed it provides a natural shield

responsible for the symptoms

against ‘inflamm-ageing’, part of the

experienced by people

ageing process characterised by

with sensitive, reactive or

chronic, low grade inflammation.

intolerant skin: • an alteration of the stratum corneum responsible for intense dehydration • oxidative stress associated with the

Cork oak and coconut complex Diam Bouchage, a French

overproduction of free radicals

manufacturer of wine closures,

• chronic overproduction of cytokines

• reinforcement of the barrier function • improvement of the membrane fluidity • moisturising power • free radical scavenger • protection against oxidative stress.

patented a green chemistry process 12 years ago, which utilises the properties

unique ability to penetrate the skin

Different preventive and soothing

of compressed carbon dioxide to

and are perfectly safe for all skin types,

mechanisms must be associated to

extract olfactory compounds of cork

including the most sensitive.

reduce skin discomfort, tightness and

taint in wine. The anti-inflammatory

redness, whilst maintaining hydration

properties of cork molecules are highly

an eco-designed, 100 percent natural

and nourishment deep within the skin.

sought after in the cosmetics industry.

and organic active ingredient that

(inflammatory proteins).

Diam Oléoactif, available in South

In parallel, Oleos – a Hallstar

The end result was Diam Oléoactif,

fights ‘inflamm-ageing’. It is suitable

Africa from Millchem, effectively

company – studied the prospects of

for a wide variety of sensitive and

combines active ingredients of cork

the cosmetics valorisation of cork oak

reactive skin care applications for

oak and coconut to create a unique

and developed an oily extract using

anti-ageing and protective and

and highly protective complex for

its patented Oléo-éco-extraction

soothing treatments. •

sensitive and reactive skin. Tests have

process and virgin coconut oil, which

demonstrated the double anti-

is rich in medium chain triglycerides

inflammatory and anti-free radical

(MCTs). In addition to their high

efficacy of Diam Oléoactif. Results

stability, MCTs have a

A UNIQUE APPROACH TO ANTI-INFLAMM’AGING WITH DIAM OLÉOACTIF® Prevents and soothes skin redness.

Millchem, through our agency Hallstar, brings you Diam Oléoactif® an active lipid complex, which is 100% natural and organic, derived from cork oak and the coconut palm through a patented Oléo-éco-extraction process.

Anti-aging Soothing Care

Sensitive Skin Care Protective Care

Anti-redness Care Redensifying Care

Email giulio@millchem.co.za for further information.

JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za

26

FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF DIAM OLÉOACTIF:

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

ANTI-AGEING

Go social with InstaMask

What if you could customise a mask to suit consumers’ exact skin care needs? With InstaMask from Vantage you can take your brand from mainstream to personalised in a cost-effective and efficient manner.

T

he face mask experience has

to mix powders. The colour of

become a social one with social

the product comes from the

media platforms playing a great

coloured clays used so no

role in the growing popularity of

added colorants are needed.

the category. InstaMask offers a perfect solution for brand owners looking to gain more traction online, as consumers are

Versatile and easy to use

more likely to share images of surprising

InstaMask granules are hard,

and unique products.

but when water is added at a

InstaMask is an innovative, all in one

DID YOU KNOW?

Long lasting benefits To demonstrate the versatility of InstaMask, Vantage

Because InstaMask developed a product granules are dry, no platform using ancillary preservatives are formulations or boosters. needed, allowing for InstaMask Shale contains a ‘preservative free’ claim. a green clay rich in zinc and copper, as well as vitamin C

1:1 ratio, the granules hydrate and

and aloe vera. Clinical testing of

clay mask bead technology that transforms

soften, becoming a soft paste for easy

InstaMask Shale showed it reduces

into an easy to use clay mask when mixed

application on the face.

sebum and increases skin elasticity,

with water. It was launched at in-cosmetics

If applied to the skin before fully

while the combination of vitamin C

hydrated, they could provide gentle

and aloe vera reinforces the activity

exfoliation. They also function as a

of the clay to provide the short- and

required clays, actives and thickeners – all

customisable delivery system, delivering

long-term skin benefits of hydration

the user needs to do is add water or an

and protecting active ingredients. This

and an enhanced complexion. •

aqueous booster to end up with a perfect,

is ideal for actives that have traditionally

freshly made clay mask. The granular form

been difficult to formulate with as the

provides an exciting visual and user-friendly

granules don’t require stability in a

experience without the mess of having

traditional product form.

Global 2019.

Each InstaMask granule contains the

Vantage – kim@lipo.co.za

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

27

ANTI-AGEING

What’s my age again?

Reactive oxygen species is a major cause of skin ageing. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at ChemSystems, highlights two skin care actives proven to protect mature skin against free radical harm.

S

ince the 1900s, the global

as pollution and sunlight,

average life expectancy has

which have a significant

more than doubled, and is

impact on the condition

now approaching 70 years.

of the skin.

By 2050, the number of people over

Free radicals,

DID YOU KNOW?

selective ROS before damage is incurred. Its non-self-sacrificing

Life expectancy is rising around the globe. As of 2017, 23 percent of the global population (1.7 billion people), is over 50 years old, according to Euromonitor.

mechanism ensures its enhanced efficiency,

the age of 65 years is expected to

specifically reactive

double worldwide. Because people

oxygen species (ROS),

are living longer, consumers’ desire to

are a mechanism of

be healthier is growing. Healthy living

skin ageing. ROS can

is no longer a sub-culture; it’s become

have a negative effect on

a prominent part of mainstream living

biological macromolecules,

and is evident across all industries,

resulting in a reduction of collagen

including skin care.

synthesis in the skin, which leads to

of wrinkles

Beauty industry language is moving away from fighting the signs of ageing to focus on looking and feeling good at any age

premature ageing.

• promotes skin radiance

The narrative of ageing is also changing, with beauty industry

when compared to common antioxidants on the market.

AgeCap Smooth offers three main skin

care benefits: • softens the appearance

• delivers a skin smoothing effect.

AgeCap Smooth

Evidence of these benefits is

ChemSystems strives to offer

supported by compelling in vitro

solutions to protect skin from

and in vivo clinical data. A double-

external aggressors, such as sun

blind randomised in vivo study was

and pollution. The cosmetics active

conducted over a period of 84 days

ingredient AgeCap Smooth from

involving 100 female panellists,

Dow is a ‘weapon’ designed to help

ranging in age from 45 to 65. As a

consumers protect their skin and

benchmark, a range of ingredients

keep it healthy as they age.

were studied, including AgeCap

In most conventional antioxidants,

Smooth, Retinol, stabilised Vitamin C

language moving away from fighting

the compounds destructively act

the signs of ageing to focus on looking

upon free radicals by means of a

and feeling good at any age. As a

chemical reaction to convert the

Smooth demonstrated an ability

result, skin needs to be protected

ROS to water. The unique antioxidant

to reduce wrinkle appearance,

during exposure to external factors such

activity of AgeCap Smooth traps

with statistical significance over the

28

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

and a placebo.

Test results revealed AgeCap

ANTI-AGEING placebo. This effect was already

statistically significant difference.

carrot root extract, carrot seed oil and

visible after 28 days and more

AgeCap Smooth also showed

ß-carotene, all united in a basis

significantly after 56 days, according

a greater skin radiance than

of canola oil to provide perfectly

to the data points, whereas the effect

Retinol, yet the difference was not

stabilised carotenoids.

with Retinol is typically only evident

statistically significant.

Carotolino shows efficacy in:

after 84 days.

• shielding blue light

Carotolino botanical active

• neutralising blue light-induced ROS

perceivable in a decrease in skin

Natural and artificial blue light are

• supporting a healthy and vivid

roughness. AgeCap Smooth used

known to damage the skin and induce

skin colour.

in conjunction with Vitamin C

premature ageing. Nature’s answer

exhibits a statistically significant

to blue light protection is carotenoids,

the best properties carrots have to

smoothing effect versus a placebo,

which shield blue light and protect

offer, including stabilised carotenoids.

The skin smoothing effect was

whereas Retinol has shown some effects without statistical significance.

Overall skin radiance was

against the induced oxidative stress. Besides the photoprotective activity, topically applied carotenoids can

The botanical active incorporates

Carotolino reduces blue light-induced skin damage while adding a vivid look to the skin, making this a trendy ingredient that synergistically targets the protection and liveliness of skin.

improved with

optimise skin colour,

all ingredients

shifting pale and

efficacy, Carotolino was named a finalist

tested, but

dull skin tones to

in the 2019 in-cosmetics global Innovation

with different

livelier tones.

Zone Best Ingredient Awards. •

magnitude. After

New from

84 days, AgeCap Smooth showed a greater radiance

ChemSystems’ technology partner, Lipoid Kosmetik,

than Vitamin C and

Carotolino is based on

the placebo, with a

a unique combination of

Due to its unique design and proven

ChemSystems – www.chemsystems.co.za Dow – www.dow.com Lipoid Kosmetik – www.lipoid-kosmetik.com

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

29

ANTI-AGEING

How to fight ‘tech neck wrinkles’

Smartphones and electronic devices can be far worse for our skin than we realise. Consumers aged between 18 and 39, who have an average of three digital devices and peer at their screens up to 150 times a day, are believed to be accelerating the natural loss of the elasticity of their skin.

W

74 percent of the panel noted the skin on their neck was firmer

ith accelerated smartphone usage, consumers have developed new habits, modifying their behaviour

and posture, giving rise to new ageing markers. The term ‘tech neck’ was coined a few years ago to define the modification of the posture of the human body, and more

of wrinkle treatment for the Y-Zone. To

the skin on their neck was firmer (versus

recently, ‘text neck wrinkles’, which defines a

address this growing trend, the company

45 percent using the placebo) and

new zone calling for anti-ageing treatment –

has crafted Agefinity, a powerful youth

84 percent felt convinced by the effect of

the Y-Zone.

activator that recharges the energy of their

the product at the end of the trial (versus

skin to fight wrinkles. The Care Co. is

60 percent using the placebo).

Head down, consumers spend an average of two hours a day on social media

the South African agent for Givaudan Active Beauty.

and surfing the internet. The

A solution in a serum To inspire the beauty industry, Givaudan

result is an increase in the sign of

The active ingredient is

wrinkles on a specific area of the

a mannose-6-Phosphate

Active Beauty’s formulation experts crafted

skin, on the lower face and neck.

complex based on a vegetal

a powerful anti-ageing serum, S3D Mystic.

This part of the body is defined as

source and green chemistry

the Y-Zone, which is set to become

to replenish cells’ energy. With

blended with an extract of the Rose of

one of the most requested areas

multiple anti-ageing benefits,

Jericho, also known as the resurrection

of treatment for wrinkles.

Agefinity can significantly

plant, and diamond powder. This serum

reduce visible age spots (a

quickly penetrates the skin, leaving a light

A powerful active ingredient

reduction up to 2.1 times more

floral scent post application, while Agefinity

efficient), neck (-32.5 percent)

brings a solution for consumers of all

With over 65.8 percent of

and crow’s feet (-11.5 percent).

beauty brands who seek to win the battle

cellphone users worldwide,

It has also shown to remodel

of using their smartphones daily.•

including 35.8 percent

the Y-shape of the face and

smartphone users, Givaudan

reorganise the skin matrix to be

Active Beauty is already working

similar to younger skin. A total of

to provide a reliable source

74 percent of the panel noted

47.Digest of Ingredients Careco_®C.indd 1

30

47.Digest of Ingredients Careco_®C.indd 1

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

47.Digest of Ingredients Careco_®C.indd 1

Featuring Agefinity, S3D Mystic is

Givaudan Active Beauty – www.givaudan.com The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za

2018/02/01 3:12 PM

2018/02/01 3:12 PM

2018/02/01 3:12 PM

ANTI-AGEING

A true Retinol alternative

The results of an independent study show Sytheon’s Bakuchiol, Sytenol A is as effective as Retinol, yet it doesn’t have any of the drawbacks of the world’s most popular antiageing ingredient. As a natural alternative to Retinol, Bakuchiol offers much better skin tolerance and the absence of phototoxicity.

W

hile Retinol is still the gold standard

DID YOU KNOW?

for antiageing skin

creams or anti-acne treatments, Bakuchiol has generated a lot of attention in women’s magazines and was

antibacterial and mitochondrial protection properties from oxidative stress.

Bakuchiol can be used during the day thanks to its excellent photostability and it’s an excellent stabiliser of retinol in photo-oxidative as well as singlet oxygen environments.

in particular on the retinoid binding and metabolising genes.

Similar yet different

Effective and multifunctional

Despite having no

UC-Davis Dermatologists carried out a

structural resemblance to

randomised, double-blind clinical study on

retinoids, Sytenol A works

Sytenol A and Retinol. The results showed

as a functional analogue

listed by Mintel among

of Retinol. Bakuchiol has

the trendiest skin care

several substantial advantages

ingredients in 2019.

large majority of genes (almost 23 000),

Sytenol A matches the established benefits of retinol. It was demonstrated that both compounds significantly decreased wrinkle

over Retinol, including excellent

surface area and hyperpigmentation,

photochemical and hydrolytic stability

with no statistical difference between the

by Unicare Ingredients, offers a

and a good safety profile. It is also easier

compounds. Yet the retinol users reported

high purity Bakuchiol meroterpene

to formulate with due to its miscibility

more facial skin scaling and stinging. The

with a wide variety of emollients

authors concluded Sytenol A is comparable

and solubilisers.

to retinol in its ability to improve photo-

Sytheon, represented locally

phenol extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant.

Sytenol A provides superior

In vitro, comparative volcano plots

ageing and it is better tolerated than retinol.1

skin care benefits

of Sytenol A and Retinol show dramatic

both for anti-ageing

similarities in gene expression profiles of

strategy targeting several factors responsible

the two compounds, indicating similar

for acne, including sebum production and

functional analogy. Sytenol A has a

its integrity, overpopulation of bacteria,

retinoic activity demonstrated on a

inflammation and hyper-keratinisation. It has

and anti-acne applications. It also offers broad action

Sytenol A also offers a multi-tasking

antioxidant,

been clinically proven to reduce the severity

anti-inflammatory,

of acne by about 57 percent when used on its own at one percent in a formulation, or in combination with two percent salicylic acid, where it contributed to a 70 percent reduction in acne lesions. • REFERENCES 1. Dhaliwal et al, British J Dermatology, 2018 Jun 27. doi: 10.1111/ bjd.16918

Sytheon – www.sytheonltd.com Unicare Ingredients – www.unicare.co.za

Exclusive distributors for Sytheon – inspiring and innovative speciality ingredients Exclusive distributors for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics and Southern Cross Botanicals – inspiring and innovative speciality ingredients!

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

31

CARTON & BOARD

Redesign your profits with Clomark

Brands need to be more creative in their packaging design. Shyam Chirkoot, Clomark MD, says you only have a few seconds to capture consumers’ fleeting glances.

C

onsumers subconsciously

possible. Intelligent die trace designing

QR codes may be inserted to provide more

gauge the quality of a product

results in creative carton shapes, which

product information via a web page.’

from the look, feel and design of

provide their own appeal on shelf, standing

the packaging. Their choice of

apart from the competition.

product is largely determined by the impact of the packaging.

Clomark recommends and assists clients in the design aspect of folding

Ensure brand confidence

The company also assists customers with

With the rise in counterfeit products,

artwork design. Clomark has its own studio

consistency in packaging is key. Even a slight

for high resolution photography and offers

colour variation could create the impression

editing services.

that a product is not genuine. Clomark’s

cartons. The thickness of board is largely

diverse product lines of cartons, self-

determined by the mass and size of the

Invested in the future

adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, sachets and

contents, whilst considering consumer

To meet customers’ needs for shorter

wrappers, all manufactured at one facility,

appeal. The company uses a wide

lead times, Chirkoot says Clomark

assist to establish colour consistency across

variety of paper and board of various

has made capital investments into

line extensions and brand ranges.

constructions and properties.

post printing processes that were previously

With the global focus on reducing the impact of packaging on the environment, Clomark designs cartons as small as

outsourced.

‘We are also equipped to incorporate personalised holographic security features

‘This also give us the capability to

into packaging designs. Including tamper

add special effects such as embossing,

evident properties also stimulates consumer

varnishing and foiling to further enhance

confidence in the brand and reduces

consumer appeal. Embossing and spot

related customer risks,’ Chirkoot concludes. •

effects can be used to include braille on packaging to promote products in this market,’ he explains. ‘We also assist in designing and printing packaging inserts.

Clomark – www.clomark.com

“Manufacturers of self adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, folding cartons, sachets & wrappers.”

Email

32

Telephone

Website

quotes@clomark.com

011-314 5444

www.clomark.com

ISO 9001: 2015

Level 1 B-BBEE

ISO 14001: 2015

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms

Mask the taste of paracetamol in a chewable tablet

BASF’s pharma solutions team evaluated poly(vinyl acetate) as a taste masking polymer for paracetamol and its subsequent formulation in a chewable tablet. Florian Bang and Thorsten Cech of BASF’s European pharma application lab share the results of their research.

O

rally disintegrating tablets (ODTs) are a popular dosage

proper coating process (good

Table 1: Glatt GPCG 3.1 processing parameters and settings

form. To allow instant and

Parameter

fast disintegration, various

Product bowl volume

flowability and fluidisation of

Setting

API), the addition of fumed silica 5L

was required.

formulation aspects need to be reflected

Batch size (uncoated)

(e.g. binder and disintegrant).1, 2 Masking

Nozzle orifice / position

1.0mm/1

evidence showed a coating

the inconvenient taste of an active

Spray rate

20g/min

level of about 20 percent is

pharmaceutical ingredient (API) is a

Atomisation air pressure

crucial facet of formulation development to

Inlet air temperature

eventually gain patient compliance. Yet the

Inlet air quantity

total tablet mass, resulting in a high API dose

Product temperature

870g

2.5 bar 60°C 70 to 100m³/h 30 to 40°C

and potentially applied taste masking (e.g. coating), can lead to difficulties in obtaining the required ODT features. A single dose of paracetamol can be as high as 500mg.

This is why formulated paracetamol easily exceeds the US FDA recommendation for the maximum mass of an ODT.3

Materials and methods Paracetamol (Acetaminophen) fine powder

In organoleptic testing,

needed to gain a convenient taste. When exceeding the coating level by about 50 percent, the entire surface area is covered with poly(vinyl

Table 2: Quantitative formulation of the chewable tablets

Excipient

acetate) (see Figure 2) and the bitterness of paracetamol is fully

Quantity

Coated paracetamol

42.1%

Filling material

35.7%

Kollidon CL-SF

20.0%

Sucralose

1.0%

Strawberry flavour

0.5%

Menthol (milled)

0.2%

masked. A combination of this product with suitable sweeteners and flavours should provide for a compliant formulation.

However, the coating process led to a distinct increase in the particle size of the paracetamol,

(Fagron) was coated with an aqueous

• magnesium stearate (Bärlocher).

poly(vinyl acetate) dispersion (Kollicoat SR

The following filling materials, noted in Table

in the particle size was evident when the

30 D, BASF) without a plasticiser, to apply the

2, were also tested:

50 percent coating level was exceeded

required taste masking features.

• dextrose (Cargill)

(see Figure 3). The mouth sensation

• mannitol (Pearlitol 50C, Roquette Pharma)

of these samples remained pleasant,

• lactose (GranuLac 230, Tablettose 80,

even though some particles were larger

To guarantee good flow characteristics of the fine powdery material during coating, two percent fumed silica (Aerosil 200,

both Meggle Pharma)

whereas no additional increase

than 300 to 400µm. This was most likely

Evonik) was homogeneously incorporated

• Ludiflash (BASF)

due to saliva acting as plasticiser and

into the bulk API. The coating process was

• sorbitol (Shandong).

transforming the particle into a weak and

conducted in a GPCG 3.1 fluid bed coater

After mixing the components in a

chewing gum-like mass.

(Glatt) assembled with top-spray setup and

Turbula T2C blender (Willy A. Bachofen),

Even though poly(vinyl acetate) is

employing standard coating parameters

compression was done using a lab-scale

insoluble in water and is intended to be

(see Table 1).

rotary press XL 100 (Korsch) equipped

used for sustained release dosage forms,

with round shaped, flat faced, bevelled

the large surface area of the aggregates

Erweka USP dissolution apparatus equipped

edge punches with a diameter of 10.0mm.

still allows for the fast liberation of

with continuous on-line UV measuring

Compression forces of six to 17.5kN were

paracetamol (see Figure 4). Consideration

(Agilent 8453), wave length: 243nm.

applied, aiming for a tablet mass of about

that the coated material tends to

Hydrochloric acid (0.08N) was employed

400mg and a crushing force of some 50N.

agglomeration in the dissolution vessel is

as dissolution media (700mℓ ± one percent,

The tablets were characterised (n=20) using

needed, delaying drug release (indicated

37°C ±0.5 K, n=3).

a multi-tester (HT100, Sotax).

by the blue curve in Figure 4).

excipients were added:

Results and discussion

should be mixed with additional fumed

• super fine cross-linked poly(vinyl

A fine powder grade of paracetamol was

silica or talc to avoid incorrect indications

selected for this investigation (see Figure

(indicated by the violet curve in Figure 4).

The coated API was tested in a standard

To obtain chewable tablets, the following

pyrrolidone) (Kollidon CL-SF, BASF)

For dissolution testing the samples

• sucralose (New Trend Group)

1), to ensure a smooth and pleasant

• milled menthol (BASF)

mouth sensation of the final tablet after

the compressibility of the described

• strawberry flavour (Symrise)

disintegration in the oral cavity. To allow a

tabletting formulation were excellent.

The flow characteristic as well as

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

33

Figure 3: Particle size distribution (laser diffraction) of paracetamol coated with different amounts of poly (vinyl acetate) to obtain taste masking (coating level indicated)

PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms Figure 2: SEM image of coated paracetamol

9

Volume [%]

Figure 1: SEM image of uncoated paracetamol

12

uncoated coated (21.8%) coated (51.4%) coated (59.3%)

6

3

0 0.1

Conclusion

to chew. A bitter taste could not be

Aqueous poly(vinyl acetate) dispersion

detected. Due to chewing, the tablets

can be used to obtain taste masking of

disintegrated rapidly. No unpleasant or

paracetamol. The coating level required

sandy texture was notable on the tongue.

ranges from 20 to 50 percent. Although the

The various fillers offered differences

polymer is insoluble in water, paracetamol surface area of the coated material. The

effect. Yet the mouth-sensation

chewing gum-like texture of poly(vinyl

(appearance on the tongue) of the

acetate) in a wetted state provides a

two fillers was very similar. All the fillers

superior and non-sandy mouth sensation.•

Cumulative drug release [-]

while mannitol gave a cooling mouth

compensated with the amount of

1. Agnese, Th.; Cech, Th.; Mistry, M. Evaluating various wet

U2

disintegrating tablet formulations; 1st European Conference

Drug Administration, Centre for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER); Guidance for Industry, Orally Disintegrating Tablets; December 2008.

Conference on Pharmaceutics, 13 to 14 April, 2015; Reims, France.

2. Agnese, Th., Bang, F.; Cech, Th.; Mistry, M. Evaluating

BASF – pharmaceutical.basf.com

various disintegrants regarding their performance in orally

TU

Next-level lab technologies

Messe Muenchen brings the internationally renowned analytica cluster to South Africa in 2019, with the acquisition of Lab Africa, the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa. analytica is the world’s largest trade fair network for the lab and analysis industry.

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

30.0

for orally disintegration tablet formulations; 1st European

analytica Lab Africa 2019

34

20.0

binders to gain lactose-based agglomerates applicable

RE4 O4

RK GL

food & drink technology Africa 2019

10.0

3. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Food and

NE3 TW

In proud co-location with:

0.0

on Pharmaceutics, 13 to 14 April, 2015; Reims, France.

REFERENCES

F3

uncoated coated (21.8%) coated (51.4%) coated (51.1%)

0.4

0.0

differences in sweetness may be

achieve a final tablet with a yellowish hue.

0.6

0.2

appeared to be suitable. Potential

By adding riboflavin as colourant to

1,000

0.8

is quickly liberated because of the large

the coating dispersion, it was possible to

100

1.0

in taste; dextrose resulted in sweetness

could be compensated with menthol.

10 Log. particle size [µm]

Figure 4: Dissolution profiles of uncoated and coated paracetamol

The resulting tablets were convenient

sucralose, while the cooling sensation

1

Hot Topics: Food and Water Analysis

03

B2

AL2

July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg Presented by Messe Muenchen South Africa info@mm-sa.com

ADVERTORIAL

PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms

A continuous process from powder to pellet Glatt explores the advantages of pellets in manufacturing and patient compliance and shares its recent development in continuous processing technologies.

P

ellets are on trend and enable

It is also possible to turn chemically

a wide variety of dosage forms.

incompatible drugs into different types

By applying functional coatings

of pellets, which contain the API in a

to a pellet, the effect of the

protected form.

API in the stomach and intestines can

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Pellets can be produced using the

be targeted. The release of the active

Wurster fluidised bed technology, or the

ingredient from a pellet is not only

extrusion or spheronisation technique.

controlled by the pH of the fluid in the

Innovative manufacturing methods such

stomach and intestines, but also by

as the Micro Px and ProCell continuous

the permeability of the coatings. The

Glatt technologies can be used to achieve

bioavailability of an API can be improved

the special qualities of pellet cores. The

by the MUPS concept and the associated

rounder and smoother the API pellets, the

possibilities of targeted API release.

easier it is to reproducibly apply functional

An API contained in pellets can be

coatings and to achieve a defined release

packaged in various formats. It can be

of the active ingredient,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; explains Norbert

filled in capsules, pressed into tablets, or

PĂśllinger, head of technology development

packaged in sachets or stick packs to

at Glatt Pharmaceutical Services.

A multiple unit pellet system contained within a capsule

be taken with water. Manufacturers can also produce a juice format to be taken

Choosing the right process

over a period of one to two weeks. Mini

Pellet cores containing an API take one

pellets, specially designed for children

of two basic forms: they are either a

and which mask the unpleasant taste of

neutral starter pellet coated with active

a drug, can be filled into drinking straws

ingredient, or a matrix pellet. To produce

to be administered with a liquid.

pellets coated with an active, a drug is

The continuous production process explained by Glatt within a multi-purpose Modcos system

36

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms dissolved or dispersed in a suitable liquid

percent. Basket extruders can be used

interconnected to form one continuous

and fluidised bed technology is used to

to achieve pellets with a particle size

process. The API and excipient powder

spray it onto neutral starter pellets made

>700μm and an API content of up to 60

mixture is continuously moistened in a

from sugar or cellulose. Drugs susceptible

percent,’ Pöllinger explains.

mid-shear granulator and supplied directly

to moisture can also be fixed to a neutral

to the basket extruder positioned below

starter pellet in powder form using fluidised

Three steps in one machine

for extrusion. Thereafter the extrudates

bed powder coating.

Glatt, based in Binzen, Germany, and

can either be transferred directly to

With matrix pellets, the API is present

represented locally by Reitech SA, has

a continuous fluidised bed dryer or

in a homogeneous active and excipient

expanded its product range to include

processed further in the spheroniser.

matrix. These pellets can be produced using direct pelletising, either in batch mode or continuous operation. The API and the excipients are moistened by wet granulation and conveyed through an extruder to form sausage-shaped aggregates. The next step involves a

The three processes are integrated into one machine

spheroniser, which rounds the oblong extrudates to create spherical pellets of

a pelletising system for continuous

the drug.

extrusion, which features a high degree

spheronisers arranged in a cascade,

of flexibility.

enabling the continuous process,’ says

Batch processes as well as continuous methods can be applied to produce

There are three steps in the continuous

‘The compact system uses two

Axel Friese, head of marketing at Glatt

extrusion process to produce matrix

Process Technology Pharma.

pellets: wet granulation; extrusion and

The extrusion stage can be configured

and in the API content of the pellets,

spheronisation. Until now, these three

according to the desired quality of the

whereas continuous fluidised bed

steps had to be performed in a batch

extrusion pellets. Using different matrices

pelletising processes can produce

process using three different machines.

to extrude the moist mass, the size of the

pellets between 150 and 400μm

In Glatt’s new system, the three processes

pellets and their density can be adjusted.

and with an API content of up to 100

are integrated into one machine and

Long spaghetti-like extrudates break into

matrix active ingredient pellets.

‘The differences are in the pellet size

www.glatt.com

Glatt. MultiLab.

The All in One Solution for OSD Lab Processes.

Glatt. Pelletizing System.

The Solution for “High Drug Loading” Pellets.

Glatt. TwinPro.

The Future of Process Fusion.

Glatt. Integrated Process Solutions.

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

37

PHARMA FOCUS//OSD Forms sausages of a defined size,

powder dispensing of the active

forming spheronisation pellets of a defined size.

Alternatively, the length of the extrudates can be determined using two blades with an offset arrangement of 180° which cut the extrudate into pieces of defined lengths when it

DID YOU KNOW?

ingredients and excipients; wet granulation, drying and tableting, through

Multiple unit pellet systems, or MUPS consist of a large number of discrete, API-loaded particles ranging in size from 100 to 2 000μm.

exits the extruder.

‘The continuous drying

entire process is modelled much more effectively, allowing

to tablet coating. With

manufacturers

the new pelletising

to achieve

system, spheronisation

exceptional total

can also be added

yields. It is also

to the wet granulation

easier and safer

and extrusion production system. In combination with the drying

module, throughput of up to

Axel Friese

for the operator to handle APIs,’ says Friese.

The dried API pellets are usually coated with functional layers to create a defined

process that follows extrusion or

50kg of pellets per hour is achieved

release profile or to mask the taste of

spheronisation can be carried out

with the new production line. The

the drug.

in the Modcos dryer module of the

pelletising system control unit is linked

new MultiLab system, or in the larger,

to the MultiLab multifunctional unit’s

fitted with a suitable container for the

continuous fluidised bed module of

control system, ensuring end to end

coating process, in which the API pellets

the GPCG 10 series,’ Friese explains.

process control, enabled by the

are coated using the bottom spray

Scada-based system, which connects

process,’ he states. The coated pellets

Modular approach provides flexibility

to all PAT integrations.

are then transferred to the capsule filling

The Modcos (modular continuous)

casters and its design is so compact

system is a multi-purpose platform

it can be transported through normal

for continuous manufacture of

laboratory doors. It is also quick and

granulates, tablets and coated

easy to clean.

tablets. Its modules incorporate the entire process chain from the

The laboratory unit is mounted on

‘By ensuring short distances between the process elements, the

‘In this case, the MultiLab system is

machine by means of a pneumatic conveying system. •

Glatt – www.glatt.com Reitech SA – www.reitech.co.za

Taking responsibility

for providing quality service.

MJ Labs is a contract manufacturer and packer for complementary medicines, health supplements, cosmetics and vitamin fortification. This is done in capsule, powder, cream, liquid, tablet and sachet form for human use. New machinery has been introduced which includes a blister pack machine, tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet packing machine.

Contact us on 0128048966 or e-mail rp@mjlabs.co.za for any queries.

38

MJ Lab ad.indd 1

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

2018/05/24 10:13 AM

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.

The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities

Hersolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products.

It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments.

Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.

Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines

Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2

fax: +27 11 614 4615

email: admin@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za

PERSONAL CARE

Save the planet with speciality silica The demand for raw materials approved for use in natural cosmetics is steadily on the rise. Harnessing its expertise in manufacturing silica, Evonik has developed two new ideal alternatives to microplastics: Sipernat 250 PC and Sipernat 9000.

S

ipernat 250 PC is designed

The four Sipernat PC products from

for body scrub

Evonik now cover virtually all

applications. The hardness of its

particles is well suited for use on normal skin. Sipernat 9000 PC is intended for applications involving larger amounts of dirt, or less sensitive body

DID YOU KNOW?

rinse-off formulation needs in addition to offering benefits

The microbeads in scrubs, shower gels and toothpastes are an avoidable part of the global plastic pollution problem.

According to Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics, a single shower can result in 100 000 plastic particles entering the ocean.

areas such as the feet.

These applications benefit from the harder and durable

such as global availability and controlled,

Evonik’s Sipernat PC products are also Cosmos certified and can be used in natural cosmetics products. They are INCI-classified as hydrated silica, which makes them ‘derived mineral ingredients’ in the definition of ISO 16128-1.

consistent quality.

Evonik is a leading global manufacturer of silica. In addition to its

Certified for natural cosmetics All Sipernat PC products

fumed silica Aerosil and the precipitated silica Ultrasil, Sipernat, Zeodent and Spherilex, Evonik also produces silica

are listed as nature-

based matting agents under the brand

identical by Natrue, the

name Acematt and other fumed metal

International Natural and Organic

oxides under the brand, Aeroxide.

particles of Sipernat 9000 PC to

Cosmetics Association dedicated to

Evonik’s global production capacity for

create a better scrubbing effect.

promoting natural skin care.

all silica based products is about one

The products complement the

Natrue’s strict label criteria and

existing assortment of Sipernat 22

clearly defined procedures are seen

PC and Sipernat 2200 PC, which are

by the global cosmetics industry as

preferred in formulations for facial

a valuable way to differentiate true

and body care products, or more

natural cosmetics products from

delicate and sensitive skin.

greenwashed ones.

million metric tons per year. •

Evonik – www.sipernat.com

Naturally SIPERNAT® PC – The versatile and eco-friendly exfoliator Hydrated silica SIPERNAT® PC advantages: ■ ■ ■

■

Certified as Nature identical by COSMOS and NATRUE High compatibility with various formulations Portfolio with different particle sizes, morphologies and hardness for different skin sensitivity (e. g. face, body, feet) Globally available in consistent and tightly controlled quality

Use Evonik’s silica expertise for your advanced cosmetic formulation – Inside, to get it right.

Anzeige SIPERNAT PC_SA_3.indd 1

40

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

03.05.2019 10:49:08

PERSONAL CARE

Boost soap foam with Omyacare In the shower category, foaminess is a key attribute. With Omyacare natural calcium carbonate, available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, brands can pump up their soap bar foam without increasing the cost of the formulation.

T

he bath, shower and body care

consumption of plastic packaging and

cost. The fine particles increase the friction

market in South Africa is dynamic

their water footprint. It’s no surprise new

during the soap rubbing action, creating

and expected to grow above six

solid formats beyond soap bars are

more foam and improving the consumer’s

percent per year during the next

also appearing on the market, such as

experience. To demonstrate this, Omya

shampoo bars and conditioner bars.

has developed a test method to quantify

five years. In this segment, innovation in bar soaps remained steady, with the

Whether consumers choose a soap bar

foam generation in soap bars. Panellists are

introduction of new products, particularly

by environmental conviction or for cost

trained to rub soap bars in a reproducible

shower products, growing 13 percent per

reasons, they don’t want to compromise

way. After rubbing, a photograph is taken

year between 2014 and 2018.

on sensory experience.

of their hands. The foam is isolated, and the

Soap bars are making a comeback,

white pixels counted by computer analysis

even in regions where liquid format

Pump up the foam

soaps are dominant. This is mainly due

Omyacare natural calcium carbonate is

to environmentally conscious consumers

used in soap bars to bring whiteness and

pixels, the higher the quantity of foam –

turning to solid bars to reduce their

opacity and to optimise the formulation

resulting in an average improvement of

(see images 1 and 2).

The higher the number of white

25 percent in foam generation. This was 1

2

1 & 2: Computer analysis of the foam generated in the reference formula (left – without Omyacare) compared to a soap bar formulation with five percent Omyacare (right). Data shows a 27 percent increase in the number of white pixels, resulting in a 27 percent improvement in foam generation

measured when adding five percent of Omyacare to the soap bar, compared to the same formulation without Omyacare. •

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Omya – info.cosmetics@omya.com

Omya Consumer Goods omya.com

Boosting foam generation and sensoriality Omyacare® improves foam generation up to 25%, providing a creamy sensation to bar soaps along with enhanced whiteness and opacity.

grantp@cjpchemicals.co.za

Official Distributor for RSA

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

41

PERSONAL CARE

Natural xylitol ester for deo applications

Global sales of deodorants reached USD$21 billion in 2017, with an expected minimum annual growth of five percent. Yet the category is facing new challenges as the demand for safe alternatives to Farnesol and Triclosan in traditional deodorant formulations continues to grow.

B

ody odours are a major source of chemo-sensorial communication in humans and are far more significant than we may think.

Intense sweating or hyperhidrosis, especially in the armpits and on feet, can lead to unpleasant odours and impact one’s confidence. This excessive amount of water increases the opportunity for bacterial growth and is frequently accompanied by bromhidrosis, or offensive body odour.

Even after a significant microbial reduction in 15 minutes, Hebeatol Plus Deo keeps microbial growth under control, gradually reducing the colony count for up to 24 hours to demonstrate bacteriostatic capacity.

Although unpleasant, sweat is one of the body’s major thermoregulation mechanisms. The cosmetics industry has developed several ways to control the

as a result of studies showing it may be

Cosmetics, is a natural, functional xylitol

unpleasant odours associated with sweat.

associated with endocrine dysfunction,

ester with potent antimicrobial activity and

These include:

neurotoxicity and cancer.

deodorant capabilities. It can be used as a

1. odour neutralising agents 2. enzymatic inhibitors of bacterial transformation reactions

Farnesol representation has been increasing and is found in 24 percent of products on the market, especially in France,

safe substitute to Farnesol and Triclosan in traditional deodorant formulations.

This ingredient, of vegetable origin, is

3. direct inhibitors of aminoacylase

UK, Germany and USA, where Triclosan

obtained from Xylitol and Caprylic Acid.

4. deodorant agents.

has already been banned. Yet recent

Xylitol is a pentol sugar while Caprylic Acid is

studies show Farnesol is associated with

obtained from plant-based oils, extracted in

A strong case for alternatives

allergic contact dermatitis, so it may also be

a sustainable way and RSPO certified.

Farnesol and Triclosan are among the main

restricted soon in deodorant products.

components of deodorants on the market.

Triclosan is linked to environmental

Hebeatol Plus DEO is a 100 percent biodegradable, non-ionic surfactant

Triclosan is still present in more than eight

issues too. According to experts, Patrick

molecule, which reduces the surface tension

percent of deodorants worldwide, despite

McNamara and Stuart Levy, it is a

of liquids and increasing the solubility of

it having been banned and/or restricted

biocide and resists degradation even

materials. Due to its chemical structure,

in wastewater treatment plants. This

it also has complementary properties,

and the aforementioned issues have

acting as an emollient, solvent, solubiliser

challenged the industry to find Triclosan

and co-emulsifier. •

Hebeatol Plus DEO is a 100 percent biodegradable, non-ionic surfactant molecule

and Farnesol alternatives.

New, safe substitute Hebeatol Plus DEO from Chemyunion, represented in South Africa by Chemgrit

Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com

Chemgrit Cosmetics realise that people are the key to our success, our customers, suppliers and personnel are our future. We believe in operating our business with integrity, efficiency and service excellence.

CHEMGRIT COSMETICS (PTY) LTD 7 HAROLD FLIGHT ROAD, JET PARK, BOKSBURG, 1459.

011 397 4455 / 082 853 7589

42

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

PERSONAL CARE

Deep supplier relationships improve business success

A strong supply chain is the backbone of any successful business. P C Review looks at how the great supplier-manufacturer relationship between Bottle Printers and Remancos ensures streamlined production timelines and quality finished products for their customers.

Stock packaging items now available from Bottle Printers

excellent service and unmatched quality.

supplies us with excellent quality packaging

In turn, Remancos has shown constancy to

and printing at affordable prices, our

Bottle Printers to grow both businesses.’

successful business relationship with them

Remancos is a contract manufacturer

is long term,’ Candice comments. ‘There

founded in 2009 by Candice Kalil, who

is great importance in this day and age

has 25 years’ experience in the personal

in finding a trustworthy supplier – we have

care industry.

found this in Bottle Printers.’

‘We have been working together for

Richard adds, ‘It makes such a difference

five years and rely on Bottle Printers for all

to business when you’re dealing with a

our printing. Their expertise in the industry

hands-on, quality orientated and efficient

has assisted us in launching fabulous and

company like Remancos. We look forward

successful new products on the market. Our

to growing in all avenues with Candice and

customers have launched many products

her team.’

using packaging and printing from Bottle

Remancos is a recognised innovator in

Printers, including an ethnic hair range, a

designing and manufacturing personal care

skin care range and a body care range.’

products at its state of the art production plant in Johannesburg. The company’s

W

Quality is a way of life ith the challenges facing

In 2018, Bottle Printers diversified into

the South African economy,

sourcing and supplying quality packaging

there is a greater need for

to become a one-stop shop.

strong business relationships

with closures to suit,’ says Richard. ‘The

industry. Suppliers to the industry have seen

packaging is produced locally and provides

sales volumes lagging over the past three

our customers with the convenience of no

years. While general growth is noted, gaining

longer having to farm out work across two to

traction to build up sales volumes is proving

three separate suppliers.’

To counter these challenges, Remancos and Bottle Printers have developed a strong bond.

Richard Irwin of Bottle Printers explains: ‘We offer Remancos quick turnaround times,

1

2017/08/27

3:42 PM

Re

‘We supply bottles in all shapes and sizes

and loyalty to grow the personal care

more and more difficult.

Remancos 130x177 Advert.pdf

minimum manufacturing quantity is 100kg. •

Nature is

RESEARCH

Tel Cel Fa

This new offering from Bottle Printers has become extremely beneficial to Remancos.

‘The quality of your product or service is what keeps customers returning, again and again. We know this as a contract manufacturer and because Bottle Printers

The Remancos team

Unit E2, M Strijdom p Email: ca

Remancos…

Where we make your d Bottle Printers –

WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS F

www.bottleprinters.co.za • Formulation Development Remancos – www.remancos.co.za • • • • • • •

In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting 100 95 75

25 5 0

BP Advert 06 May 2019 09:56:46 AM

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

43

MATERIALS HANDLING & WAREHOUSING

Learn from industry experts at SAPICS 2019 The annual SAPICS Conference is Africa’s leading knowledge sharing and networking event for supply chain professionals.

Hosted by the Professional Body for Supply Chain Management (SAPICS), the event takes place in Cape Town from 9 to 12 June.

the most of the opportunity and book their seats to attend,’ comments Mungo Park, SAPICS president.

How to navigate disruptions Sean Culey, a futurist, author

Chep returns to SAPICS 2019 as a silver sponsor and will ensure the event is carbon neutral

T

A VARIETY OF prestigious sponsors have confirmed their support of the SAPICS Conference.

Barloworld Logistics and Syspro are both gold

and globally recognised

sponsors. Chep, Eazi Access, Fortna, Goscor,

business transformation

Imperial Logistics and Redefine Properties are

expert, will return to the

silver sponsors, and JDA and Jungheinrich are

SAPICS stage to discuss the

support sponsors.

drivers of technological he conference is designed to

MEET THE SPONSORS

change; the social, economic

Park says the support from leading South African and multinational organisations reflects the significance of the event.

offer practical and relevant

and political factors both enabling and

information packaged

suppressing this change; and the impact

in excellent educational

technologies like robotics, blockchain

will reflect the growing global drive towards

presentations, case studies, interactive

and AI will have on businesses, the

greener supply chains. ‘Chep will ensure the

workshops and site visits.

economy and society.

event is carbon neutral,’ he explains. ‘This will be

This year’s programme will offer a

Supply chain disruptions are widely

Thanks to Chep, the 2019 SAPICS Conference

achieved by calculating the carbon footprint of

diverse array of informative and inspiring

regarded as one of the greatest risks

the event, based on the number of delegates and

presentations, including insight into the

facing manufacturers and have become

their travel itineraries. CHEP will then purchase

supply chain challenges of United Nations

a top concern of global insurance

carbon credits to offset this.’

peacekeepers in Somalia, robotics and risk

providers. A glitch in the supply chain

management, learnings from Coca-Cola

can cost an organisation up to

and a discussion on improving access to

10 percent of its shareholder value, and

life-saving medicines.

even put the company out of business.

There is a lot to learn from what’s being done across the African continent to increase access to healthcare at the last mile

The conference

Dr Robert Besseling, founder and

will also offer

chief executive of EXX Africa, is a risk

powerful value-

expert who will share his expertise with

adding workshops

delegates on how to survive disruptions.

at no additional

Dr Besseling specialises in forecasting

cost to delegates.

political, security and economic

Professor Gregory

risk to African natural resources

Schlegel of

organisations and those associated with

Lehigh University

infrastructure development.

in the USA, a renowned author and founder of the global Supply

Improving access to medicine The challenges of navigating the last mile in extreme environments will

Chain Risk Management Consortium, will

be examined in a presentation by

be presenting a one of a kind workshop

Joseph Roussel, director and private

on how exemplar companies survive

sector engagement group lead at

during and thrive after a disruption.

VillageReach in Brussels. VillageReach

‘This year, we have 10 not to be missed

is a non-governmental organisation

workshops, including Professor Schlegel’s

striving to improve communities’ access

seminar. I urge SAPICS delegates to make

to healthcare and life-saving medicines

44

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

and vaccines in remote rural areas, in developing countries.

‘There is a lot to learn from what’s being done across the African continent to increase access to healthcare at the last mile,’ Roussel says. ‘VillageReach’s work leverages private sector best practice and adapts and tests private sector ideas, often yielding innovations. My presentation offers some thought-provoking insights on how to scale innovations in frontier markets, how to train customers to improve 3PL operations, how to adapt supply chains to local contexts and configure multi-modal delivery to reach hard to access consumers.’ • For more information, visit www. conference.SAPICS.org, or send an e-mail to info@SAPICS.org.za to register for the 2019 conference.

MATERIALS HANDLING & WAREHOUSING

Alliance Healthcare turns to Zetes for FMD compliance

1

1 & 3: With the NMVS, pharmacies, wholesalers, selfdispensing doctors and hospital pharmacies can check the authenticity of a pharmaceutical product 2: Handheld or desktop terminals are used within a warehouse to scan medicines; the data is captured and verified in real-time by ZetesOlympus

2

3

The Falsified Medicines Directive came into force in Europe on 9 February.

Alliance Healthcare, a leading European pharmaceutical wholesaler and healthcare services provider, has selected Zetes to ensure its compliance.

T

he Falsified Medicines Directive (FMD) stipulates ‘wholesalers

FMD AND GS1 SIMILARITIES

and third-party logistics providers need to have the capability to

verify and, where required, decommission products instantaneously against data held on the National Medicines Verification System (NMVS).

Each European country (of the EU, the European Economic Area and Switzerland) has to implement a NMVS, which will be set up and managed by a National Medicines Verification Organisation.

The main purpose of the NMVS is to serve as the verification platforms that pharmacies or other registered parties – such as wholesalers, self-dispensing doctors or hospital pharmacies – will use to check the authenticity of a product.

Alliance Healthcare sought a readymade solution that could ensure its immediate compliance.

communicate with third-party systems, further enhancing supply chain collaboration and communication.

TO COUNTER THE threat of falsified medicines entering the legal supply chain, the European Parliament and Council has released a Directive on Falsified Medicines (2011/62/EU) (amending Directive 2001/83/EC). It aims to improve patient safety by mandating marketing authorisation holders and manufacturers to put a system in place that prevents falsified medicines from entering the legal supply chain i.e. the European Medicines Verification System (EMVS). The EMVS should guarantee the authenticity of medicines by an end to end verification system. This move by the European Parliament and Council is being mirrored by the National Department of Health with the implementation of GS1 Standards for track and trace throughout the South African pharmaceutical manufacturing industry and healthcare supply chain.

A turnkey solution

Patient safety is paramount Joaquim Simoes, director of operations and regional managing director at Alliance Healthcare comments: ‘Patient safety is of the utmost importance and at the heart of what we do. In preparation for the FMD coming into effect, we required a ready-made solution, which would not only integrate with our existing systems but also ensure we were immediately compliant. Zetes’ FMD solution empowers Alliance Healthcare to have full visibility of the product pathway, eliminating the risk of non-compliance.’

Alan Wirtz, Zetes CEO, adds: ‘We’re delighted to have partnered with Alliance Healthcare to support the organisation with its proactive approach to compliance.

With the recently implemented FMD regulations, our turnkey solution integrates

The pharmaceutical wholesaler

(WMS), ZetesMedea manages the standard

seamlessly with its internal systems and

implemented Zetes’ turnkey FMD solution

workflows to enable the verification and/or

external suppliers.

across more than 100 sites throughout

the decommissioning of products. Alliance

10 of its European territories. Through a

Healthcare’s warehouse operators are

Healthcare with the flexibility and scalability

combination of Zetes’ logistics execution

able to scan medicines with handheld or

required to strengthen its already robust

solution, ZetesMedea, and its advanced

desktop terminals and the data is captured

practices. We are working collaboratively

supply chain traceability software,

and verified in real-time by ZetesOlympus.

with the organisation to provide a future-

ZetesOlympus, Alliance Healthcare is able

‘We are pleased to be providing Alliance

Whether a product is being verified

proof solution, capable of responding

to streamline event handling, reporting and

or decommissioned, the data captured

not only to FMD but also to any further

communication with the national hubs.

is automatically checked against the

regulatory changes.’ •

NVMS, and stored in ZetesOlympus, in line

How does it work?

with the FMD regulations. Additionally,

Through integration with a number of

the solution further extends capability

internal warehouse management systems

by allowing Alliance Healthcare to

Zetes – www.zetes.com

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

45

INDUSTRY TALK

Ensuring fair play

between participants and consumers Brands and businesses shouldn’t fear the Consumer Protection Act. Instead they should welcome its drive to promote fairness, openness and good business practices among suppliers of goods and services and consumers. Should your brand or business be faced with a consumer complaint, the CGSO is here to assist by providing an alternative dispute resolution service.

T

he Consumer Goods

conduct a formal investigation

and Services Ombud

and if warranted, refer the case to

(CGSO) is established

the National Consumer Tribunal

and accredited in terms

(NCT). The NCT has the power to

of section 82(6) of the Consumer

levy administrative penalties of up

Protection Act. This Act empowers

to 10 percent of annual turnover or

the Minster of Trade and Industry

make any other appropriate order

to approve and promulgate an

for refunds etc.’

Industry Code of Conduct, which

The CGSO is governed by a board

allows industry to manage its

of directors comprising industry,

own disputes instead of allowing

consumer body and independent

each and every complaint to

representatives. It is funded through

be investigated by the National

levies and fees, which the CGSO is

Consumer Commission.

empowered to charge in terms of its

The Consumer Goods and

Code. Although the board consists of

Services Industry Code of

industry representatives, they play no

Conduct was promulgated by the Minister of Trade and Industry on 29 April 2015. As a result, it is compulsory for all qualifying businesses to comply with the Code through signing up to the CGSO, paying the participation fees and complying with the dispute resolution process outlined in the Code and the CPA.

role in the adjudication of complaints.

We have fielded more than 61 000 calls, opened some 19 410 complaints and closed more than 18 000

The CGSO began operating in

This ensures complaints are managed independently without the influence of industry. The CGSO has to report to the Department of Trade and Industry and the NCC on complaints received, trends and non-cooperative suppliers.

What does the CGSO do?

‘We receive and assist in resolving

March 2013 after initially being set up

19 410 complaints and closed more than

complaints by consumers against

by the Consumer Goods Council of

18 000,’ says Katlego Lehabe, business

members (participants) of the Consumer

South Africa. It has evolved into a fully

development manager at the CGSO.

Goods and Services Industry in terms of

independent entity whose role is to

‘The office does not have powers to

the Consumer Protection Act (CPA) and

provide an alternative dispute resolution

make binding decisions. If parties to

enforce the Industry Code of Conduct.

service as provided for in section 70 of

a dispute fail to reach a settlement or

Participants can also refer difficult cases

the Consumer Protection Act.

disagree with our recommendations,

to the Ombud instead of litigating,’

a complainant has the right to lodge a

Lehabe comments.

‘Since our mandate became formalised in April 2015, we have fielded

complaint with the National Consumer

more than 61 000 calls, opened some

Commission (NCC). The NCC can then

46

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

If you’re unsure of who the Code applies to, Lehabe says it applies to all

INDUSTRY TALK

Table 1

Group

Turnover range

Group 1

R3 billion +

Old annual fee R250 000

New annual fee R200 000

Group 2

Above R1 billion to R3 billion

R150 000

R120 000

Group 3

Above R500 million to R1 billion

R50 000

R40 000

Group 4

Above R5 million to R500 million

R3 000

R3 360

Group 5

Above R1 million to R5 million

R1 500

R1 680

Group 6

R1 to R1 million

no cost

no cost

retailers, suppliers, wholesalers,

and industry in terms of CPA (and

distributors, manufactures,

part of the value chain),’ he adds.

producers, importers, intermediaries, logistics and supply chain agents in the FMCG industry, unless regulated elsewhere by public regulation or a Code of Conduct accredited in terms of section 82 of the CPA. Currently the only other accredited Code is

DID YOU KNOW?

industry to minimum standards when

Even if your products are covered by an entity or retailer already subscribed to CGSO, in terms of the CPA, everyone in the supply chain is jointly and severally liable, and the CGSO can decide which party is liable in the event of a consumer complaint.

the Motor Industry Code of Conduct.

Magauta Mphahlele

While the Code guides

engaging with consumers (private judge); the CGSO

MEET THE OMBUDSMAN

collects industry data – causes, systematic and recurring problems – and makes

At the 2019 P C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference, Magauta Mphahlele, CGSO ombudsman, shared an interesting discussion

recommendations.

on how companies that offer consumer goods

The CGSO is equipped to

and services can use the ombud to their

resolve difficult complainants and reduce the administrative burden (time, effort and costs) of

advantage. Member companies have access to CPA experts through the CGSO, who are just a phone call away should they need advice on a matter.

Benefits and participation

its members. It takes restorative, not

‘The CGSO receives and deals

punitive action against a business in

with complaints and disputes by a

the form of non-compliance notices

consumer relating to the Code or

or fines). It also identifies ways of

CPA. It facilitates unbiased, quick

increasing CPA compliance as

and effective dispute resolution

an extension of internal resolution

court proceedings, which could cost a company

between consumers (at no charge)

processes and works to educate the

involved in a complaint its ability to trade.

FMCG value chain on the Code and the CGSO. But what happens if you refuse to participate in the CGSO scheme? Lehabe says you will be in

She says sustainable companies understand the value of dealing with consumer complaints in an appropriate manner. This means working together at ombud level to resolve the complaint.

Bear in mind, the alternative to an ombud is

Mphahlele is passionate about ensuring a healthy and fair credit and consumer protection market in South Africa. She is a respected speaker and commentator on credit and general consumer protection issues.

contravention of section 82(8) of the Consumer Protection Act ) and might be liable for an administrative fine

determined from time to time by the

and other punitive measures should

CGSO board (see Table 1).

the NCC investigate your company

To avoid the reputational and

and refer the matter to the National

regulatory risk that results from not

Consumer Tribunal.

handling customer complaints well, brands and business should register as

What are the costs involved?

participants of the Consumer Goods

The CGSO scheme is a mandatory

and Services Ombud Scheme, to

one that consumer goods and

become Code and CPA compliant.

services companies are obligated to

You’ll be joining more than 700

register with and contribute towards

companies already on the Consumer

the running costs of the ombud.

Goods and Services Ombud’s list of

In terms of the CGCSI Code, Katlego Lehabe is responsible for creating awareness amongst all qualifying businesses in South Africa about their obligations arising out of the CPA and the Consumer Goods and Services Industry Code of Conduct

registered participants. •

participants shall contribute to the funding of the operations of the CGSO by means of the payment of a joining fee and an annual levy and (if necessary) a special levy,

Call +27 (0)11 781 2607 and a CGSO business development officer will take you through the registration process, or you can visit the CGSO website, www.cgso.org.za, and register online.

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Shaping the path for EMPLOYEE DEVELOPMENT Plastics|SA has made several updates within its training division. To bring the industry and related sectors up to speed on these developments, the industry body hosted a series of nationwide breakfast sessions, themed ‘curiosity: the path to life-long learning’.

T

he breakfasts provide the ideal platform for Plastics|SA’s team to connect with past, current and

1

2. workplace operations, change management and communication 2

3. workplace risk, coaching and

potential clients at the beginning of each

knowledge management

year. Kirtida Bhana, the association’s

4. workplace process optimisation

training executive, said: ‘They also allow us

and efficiencies

to highlight exciting activities in the training

5. workplace project management

division through discussions on the latest

and finances.

3

trends affecting business daily and by identifying specific training needs within

PROGRAMME UPDATES

these businesses.’

To address the growing need for training

The inspiring theme and related

thermoplastic welders, Plastics|SA offers

insights of the 2019 breakfasts offered

NQF 2 welding in thermoplastic fabrication

attendees ‘food for thought’, rather than

training at its premises in Gauteng,

simply more information.

Cape Town and Durban, as well as at

During 2018, more than 3 500 students successfully completed training

companies’ premises.

programmes at Plastics|SA’s training centres

countrywide in South Africa, as well as in

in Johannesburg, Cape Town, and Durban.

Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, Zambia,

‘We have been working hard to create a

1

The industry body has hosted training 2

Tanzania, Malawi, Madagascar and Lesotho.

haven of learning at each of these centres

The following aspects are covered:

by upgrading facilities and equipment to

• butt (HDPE) welding

facilitate hands-on training and practical

• electro-fusion welding

experience,’ she added.

• hot air welding

3

Plastics|SA’s regional office in Maitland, Cape Town, had a good turnout of guests who attended an information sharing breakfast Lucky draw winner, Vusi Nxumalo (left) received a three day training voucher from Plastics|SA’s Isaya Ntuli at the Johannesburg information sharing breakfast M atshidiso Phala of Merseta, guest speaker Roxanne Da Mata of Strata-G Labour Solutions, Kirtida Bhana and Isaya Ntuli of Plastics|SA and Thulani Tshabalala of Merseta

• hot air extrusion welding

of learning outcomes, which provide

beneficial to private sector businesses.

• socket fusion welding for pipes

the qualifying learner with vocational

Geraldine Booyse of Bars Pharmaceuticals

and fittings

knowledge and skills appropriate to the

commented: ‘The content of the training

• solvent cement welding

context of production technology. This is the

modules is interesting, and the lecturers

• overlap welding.

first qualification in a series of qualifications.

The training offering is proving

are knowledgeable. They are able to share

Originally developed at an NQF Level 4,

their expertise with students across different

the setter skills trade qualification was been

Plastics|SA has added three new pipe

industries, keeping students motivated and

reviewed and reworked to NQF Level 5. In the

and profile extruders and three new blow

boosting their morale.’

following processes, part qualifications to the

moulders at all of its training facilities around

trade have been developed at an NQF Level

the country.

NEW PROGRAMME

4: injection moulding, blow moulding and

In 2018 Plastics|SA added Generic

pipe and profile extrusion.

Management to its training curriculum.

Online learning programmes – aimed

For new extruders and blow moulders,

POCKETS OF EXCELLENCE ‘We take great pride in offering our

This qualification targets managers,

at filling certain gaps in the market for soft

customers specialised, customised and

supervisors and all learners who have

skills – have been developed by Cross

contextualised material that addresses

completed the NQF 4 and supervisory

Knowledge in the UK. These programmes aim

their individual needs and those of their

management programmes.

to transform employees, drive business results

workforce. It is hugely rewarding to receive

and refine and develop soft skills that could

feedback from our customers and the

the outcomes required for specific unit

give a company the competitive edge.

students who we’ve trained, but this does

standards included in the national

Companies may purchase licences (one

not mean that we get too comfortable.

certificate generic management – generic

per user), which give them access to 124

On the contrary, it inspires us to work

manufacturing on NQF 5. It consists of

programmes to be completed in the user’s

even harder and refine our “pockets

the following five phases, which can be

own time and at the pace of the user.

of excellence” through continuous

Each learning programme addresses

completed separately: 1. workforce management

48

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

The national certificate in production technology NQF Level 2 is a combination

improvement of training expertise in the various areas,’ concluded Bhana. •

//ASSOCIATION NEWS

Significant international grant awarded to HPA

T

he prestigious grant is awarded

• the down-scheduling of Methionine –

to the association that IADSA deems has made a positive and

210mg limit [S0] • the down-scheduling of 5HTP – less

noteworthy contribution to the

than 220mg with health supplement

dietary supplements industry worldwide:

claims [S0].

IADSA’s 64 member-countries are annually

The application to down-schedule these

invited to participate.

substances was presented to the South

The HPA project submission for the

African Department of

IADSA Grant – Health Supplements Down-

Health, which approved and

Scheduling and Expanding on Substances

actioned the appeal.

– was prepared by HPA Associate, Janet

target further substances

long-term member of the South African

on the current schedule

CAMs and health products industry.

list and motivate for their

Criteria for winning included that the

down-scheduling, as well

project be replicable in other countries

as to motivate that further

or regions, it should serve as an example

substances be included

of a best practice, have the potential

in the current Schedule 0

to create change and make progress,

health supplement list,’

and be fully achievable given the right

says Welham.

that will help industry selfeasy it is to list a health product or complementary medicine in South Africa,’ Ascencao comments. ‘It will also empower us on the journey to engaging comprehensively and successfully with our regulators.’

HPA Chairperson, Maria Ascencao

To date, the HPA has successfully initiated:

Empowering local industry

• the down-scheduling of Silimarin (Milk

HPA Chairperson, Maria Ascencao,

supplements [S0]

thanked IADSA enthusiastically on behalf of the HPA’s 120 member companies and everyone in South Africa involved in the health products industry.

going to make all the difference to us in

regulate and showcase how

resources and inputs.

• the introduction of probiotics as health

‘Thank you for this incredible grant about which we are absolutely thrilled. It’s fast-tracking a listing system

‘The HPA’s ambition is to

Welham of Saige Business Consulting, a

Thistle) [S0]

The global spotlight shone on South Africa when the Health Products Association of Southern Africa (HPA) was awarded the International Alliance of Dietary/Food Supplements Associations (IADSA) Grant 2019. The announcement of the recipient was made on 10 April at IADSA’s Annual Week in Sydney, Australia.

IADSA – of which the HPA is a founding member – was created in 1998 to meet the increasing need for expertise, knowledge and experience on issues relating to supplements. Today, it is the global platform to guide the evolution of policy and regulation in the sector and has partnerships in countries and regions where supplement regulation and policy is being developed, modified or harmonised.

Janet Welham of Saige Business Consulting

A central role of IADSA is to ensure the creation of a strong network of national and regional associations across the world that are able to work with their governments and scientific communities.

Member associations of IADSA are present on all continents.•

HPA – www.hpasa.co.za IADSA – www.iadsa.org

P C Review | MAY 2019 |

49

Tea time

Suduko

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Bottle Printers of South Africa...................43.........www.bottleprinters.co.za Calpharm................................................35.........www.calpharm.co.za Chemgrit Cosmetics................................42.........www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chempure...............................................23.........www.chempure.co.za ChemSystems .........................................29.........www.chemsystems.co.za CJP Chemicals .................................. 21,41.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Clomark...................................................32.........www.clomark.com CLR Chemisches Laboratorium..................5.........www.clr-berlin.com Crest Chemicals ..................................... 15.........www.crestchemicals.com Evonik Africa............................................40.........www.corporate.evonik.com Glatt GmbH..............................................37.........www.glatt.com H&R Africa............................................ OFC.........www.hur.com Hersol Manufacturing Lab .......................39.........www.hersol.co.za IMCD SA ................................................. 19.........www.imcdgroup.com Messe Düsseldorf......................................9.........www.germanchamber.co.za Messe München South Africa ........... IFC, 34.........www.analytica-africa.com Microsep ..................................................7.........www.microsep.co.za Millchem .................................................26.........www.millchem.co.za MJ Labs...................................................38.........www.mjlabs.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals........................25.........www.savannah.co.za SOFW Journal..........................................22.........www.sofw.com Symrise SA............................................ OBC.........www.symrise.com Teqal Creative Packaging.........................20.........www.teqal.co.za The Care Co.............................................30.........www.careco.co.za Unicare Ingredients.................................31.........www.unicare.co.za Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..................27.........www.vantagegrp.com

50

| MAY 2019 | P C Review

Solution

FOR SALE – MINORITY SHAREHOLDING IN MAJOR AEROSOL CONTRACT PACKER Director wants to retire and wishes to sell his minority shareholding in this rapidly growing company. Ideally this would suit someone who is looking for a medium to long term investment and actively get involved in the business, or a company who presently makes use of the services of an aerosol contract packer, where through a minority shareholding can exercise control of the production of their products.

In order to ensure total confidentiality, interested parties are requested to forward personal or company details, including contact details to : Seriousseller67@gmail.com and the seller will make contact.

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the

Tel: 010 595 9690

cosmetics and toiletries industries.

Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing

plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com

Hydrolite 5 green ®

THE 100% BIO-BASED CARBON PENTYLENE GLYCOL Symrise patented process using a byproduct from sugar production COSMOS approved Same analytical profile and purity as Hydrolite® 5 Boosts efficacy of actives, moisturizes, improves sensorial profile of formulations, enhances product protection