Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2020

MAY 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 5

www.pharmacos.co.za

CanbiGold launches a vehicle air ventilation diffuser system to help fight COVID-19 South African taxi industry to benefit most from the dispersion of ViroGold HOCL

Coronavirus sparks demand for SAFE & HYGIENIC personal care products

A legal perspective on doing business during COVID-19

PHARMA EXPERTS share drug formulation & design expertise

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

May 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 5

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

BASF donates sanitiser to medical institutions

Coschem conference and HPCI SA expo postponed

Sweet treats inspire personal care innovations

CanbiGold innovates to curb the spread of COVID-19

10

12 INDUSTRY TALK

Insight into doing business during COVID-19

13 PHARMA FOCUS: DRUG

33 FACILITIES MANAGEMENT & DESIGN

Specialist disinfection to guarantee plant safety

CTFA shares facility design and quality management tips

FORMULATION & DESIGN

Glatt reveals global trends in solids production

Upgraded Cipla Mirren facility approved by SAHPRA

36 ANTI-AGEING

New hygienic instrument series from Vega

Depolluphane EpiPlus protects skin from pollution

How to prevent potential drug-polymer interactions

The influence of Generation Z on the beauty industry

Lipotec Active Ingredients reveals a secret to ageless beauty

New natural skin filler concept from Chemyunion

Protect skin with DC Antiglycagen from Vantage

Kolabtree explores major skin care trends

Millchem investigates beauty sleep and the microbiome

Antioxidant-rich active ingredients from Botanichem

20 PACKAGING MACHINERY & AUTOMATION

Romaco Siebler and Huhtamaki innovate with pharma push packs

22 PERSONAL CARE

Consumer perceptions of natural and synthetic ingredients

Effective skin brightening with Sabinsa’s pTeroWhite

Take a clean approach to personal care with Merck

Regain consumer trust with modern hygiene technology

A route to innovation for blue cosmetics

Marchesini Group implements remote services

Impact of COVID-19 on indie beauty solutions

28

Regain consumer trust with modern hygiene technology

Design your facility with quality in mind

34

49 ASSOCIATION NEWS

The latest developments from Coschem

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Natural options make way for safe synthetics

S

anitiser, soap and disinfection

Drug formulation and design take centre

products are the heroes of today as

stage in our pharma focus on page 13. With

the prevention of the spread of the

the launch of this new feature, we bring you

novel coronavirus continues to cause

a series of interesting reads, including a

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Albert Soley, Andreas Detmers, Christine van Zyl, Dershana Valla, Elena Cañadas, Harald van der Hoeven, Júlia Comas, Karen Maier, Olga Laporta, Raquel Delgado, Ramya Sriram, Dr Somia EL Azzab Thorsten Agnese, Thorsten Cech ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

anxiety and uncertainty for everyone. The

technical article from BASF Pharma on how to

demand for hygiene products is soaring as

prevent potential drug-polymer interactions

a result.

and a Q&A with Glatt on the global trends in

INTERNATIONAL SALES

solids production.

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

Prior to COVID-19, the clean beauty movement was a dominant driving force in

We have another new feature, facilities

the personal care industry. It saw suppliers,

management and design, included in

brand owners and manufacturers rethinking

this edition. This looks at solutions and

their approaches to meet consumers’

services that promote a safe, clean and

changing needs and resulted in products

sustainable work environment for employees

being reformulated to eliminate the use of

while guaranteeing the quality, safety and

preservatives and other artificial ingredients.

sustainability of finished products. Turn to page

Now the demand is heavily centred on

33 now to learn more about Rentokil Initial’s

ingredient safety, with consumers scrutinising

specialist disinfection services and to access

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

the shelf life of products and seeking out

expert advice from the CTFA on how to design

PUBLISHING TEAM

options with substantiated hygiene claims.

a cosmetics and personal care plant with

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

Even consumers who normally would have

quality in mind.

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

chosen natural and organic personal care

To our readers who are among the over

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION

Art Director: David Kyslinger

products, are reaching for safer synthetic

1.5 million people who returned to work at the

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

options in the wake of the ongoing global

beginning of May and to those who continue

pandemic.

to provide essential services and goods, we

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

In this edition of P C Review, we’re shining

thank you for your bravery.

a spotlight on trusted, modern hygiene technologies for personal care applications.

Please stay safe and enjoy the read.

These are the safe, effective and tried and

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd MANAGEMENT TEAM

tested synthetic ingredients, which continue

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

to play a key role in ensuring brand owners and manufacturers can meet consumers’

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

changing personal care needs. Turn to page

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

22 now to read about a wide variety of skin-

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

safe, sustainable and effective ingredients

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

available on the market for COVID-conscious

HEAD OFFICE

clean-beauty formulations.

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4 | MAY

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

2020 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

Dischem donates R2mn to The Solidarity Fund DIS-CHEM PHARMACIES HAS “Any contribution that supports donated an initial R2 million to The the fund’s aims of containing the Solidarity Fund, set up by President spread of the virus and providing Cyril Ramaphosa. At the same care for ill individuals is valuable, time the group is encouraging its and we are proud that we and Dis-Chem Benefit card members to our Benefit members will be convert their points to contribute to contributing to such a meaningful the fund, with the retail pharmacy initiative. This is about being company pledging to match all Disstronger together.

Chem Benefit members’ donations The greater the number of people rand for rand. contributing, the more money will “The initial kickstart be directed towards the fund, so we contribution of R2 are encouraging all our loyalty million is our way of programme members participating in the to join in this very fight to contain and worthy initiative.” combat the biggest Consumers who threat to our are already Dis-Chem country and our Benefit card members society,” says can start donating Dis-Chem’s now by converting any executive portion of their points director, via the Dis-Chem Lynette app or at Saltzman. www.dischem.co.za.

Lynette Saltzman, Dis-Chem’s

Coschem conference and HPCI SA expo postponed to 2021 AFTER CAREFUL CONSIDERATION, specifically relating to the COVID-19 pandemic and worldwide lockdowns, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) and HPCI have decided to postpone the annual scientific conference and HPCI SA expo until September 2021.

“As we progress through the impact of the coronavirus that has taken affect globally, there are many industry and country-related conferences and shows that have been postponed or cancelled,” comments Wayne van Wyk, chairperson of Coschem’s scientific committee. “Incosmetics, as you are aware, has also been moved to October. Yet in the views

of many, it will probably be postponed even further.”

In light of the current state of events, Coschem conducted a survey within the industry to gain insight from members and leading industry players regarding postponing the event or hosting it later in the year, and the overarching response was to postpone to 2021. The driving factor behind this response is the major impact COVID-19 is having on the economy and businesses.

The new preliminary dates for the conference and expo are 8 to 9 September 2021. More information on these dates and the plans for next year’s event, will be communicated in due course.

executive director

HPA says a sad goodbye to Bruce Dennison IT IS WITH great sadness that we learned Bruce Dennison, the beloved founder of HPASA and its honorary president, passed away on Monday 13 April. In a letter to members and friends of the Health Products Association of Southern Africa (HPA), its chairperson Maria Ascencao, said Bruce was one of South Africa’s leading health and wellness pioneers.

With 45 years of unrivalled industry experience and broad knowledge of dietary supplements, health supplements and complementary medicines, he was a true expert in the field of natural products and health foods.

Bruce Dennison and Ric Hobby of Herbalife at IADSA’s 20th anniversary celebration in London, UK

6 | MAY

2020 | P C Review

Bruce was chairman of the HPA for 19 years and was subsequently elected honorary president following his role as Chairman. He was also a founding member of the International Alliance of Dietary/ Food Supplement Association (IADSA) and held the role of IADSA’s vice chairman of for nine years.

“We have been privileged to have a person of Bruce Dennison’s calibre, intelligence and passionate dedication representing the HPA in its pursuit to ensure that natural health industry thrived in southern Africa. He was highly revered within the dietary supplement industry, well-regarded in international circles and strongly respected for his tenacious spirit and good humour,” comments Ascencao.

“It’s been a wonderful privilege and a great honour to serve alongside him and to work with him since 1997. Bruce was a great force for good, and a force of nature, who leaves a lasting imprint on the HPA, and the South African and global industries,” she adds. “Our sincerest condolences and deepest sympathy to his wife Maryke, his sons Robert and Andrew, daughter-in-law Alison, and his two grandchildren, Annabel and Tom.”

Sweet treats inspire personal care innovations

BATH, SHOWER AND soap brands are creating a range of unique indulgent products inspired by dessert and candy fragrances.

According to GlobalData, a leading data and analytics company, these products appeal to experiential shoppers and their sense of nostalgia. ‘‘We have recently seen soap and body wash products use fragrances inspired by Love Hearts, the English hard candy, and Parfait, a French dessert. These products will typically appeal to women looking to treat themselves to an indulgent shower time experience to wash away the stresses of the day. Using well-known nostalgic fragrances like Love Hearts creates a sensory experience that will increase consumer curiosity, appeal and product trial,’’ says Khalid Peerbaccus, senior researcher at GlobalData.

Recently in the US, a Nivea Body Wash range features a new foaming body wash Raspberry Parfait variant, claiming to provide ‘soft, silky skin’.

This dessert-inspired fragrance should appeal to experiential shoppers seeking different fragrances and unique sensory experiences, with GlobalData’s research confirming that 37% shoppers in the US like to experiment with new and unusual scents when choosing beauty or grooming products. Cussons has launched a unique Love Hearts hand gel variant in the UK incorporating the fragrance of the candies. The Love Hearts confectionary brand has been a popular sweet treat for generations of UK shoppers and should appeal to their sentimental and nostalgic feelings, with GlobalData research confirming that in the UK, 64% of shoppers admit unique products are somewhat or very appealing.

NEWS

A BASF employee loads bulk hand sanitisers products for transportation to a central collection point

BASF donates hand sanitiser to medical institutions AT VARIOUS PRODUCTION sites in Europe, BASF Personal Care has started the production of hand sanitisers. The products are being provided free of charge to hospitals, care facilities and other institutions in regions surrounding the production plants.

The company wants to help overcome the current bottleneck for hand sanitiser that resulted from significantly increased demand.

The German production site of BASF Personal Care in Düsseldorf has already produced and donated 13 000ℓ of the urgently needed product and will deliver further 23 000ℓ to a central collection point in the city, to be distributed to various medical institutions. Similar initiatives are underway at other BASF sites in Spain, France and Italy.

“We know that the supply situation for suitable disinfectants is very tight in Europe. By using our production

assets and filling lines to offer disinfectants to hospitals, we are helping fight the current coronavirus pandemic,” says Xavier Susterac, senior vice president personal care Europe. “Our priority at BASF now is to protect people, both inside and outside the company.”

With this intiative, BASF Personal Care follows in the footsteps of the ‘Helping Hands’ campaign, launched by its parent company in Ludwigshafen, Germany. BASF SE is producing hand sanitiser and donating it to healthcare facilities in the RheinNeckar metropolitan region.

Since the start of the COVID-19 crisis, the company has initiated extensive measures to slow the spread of the virus and protect people, ranging from the implementation of telecommuting to the adaptation of production shifts for increased hygiene.

Tip Top lends a hand with sanitiser products AS ANXIETY RUNS high amidst the COVID-19 pandemic, fear-stricken people around the world are stockpiling supplies like toilet paper, hand soap and hand sanitiser. While the instinct to panic-buy is certainly understandable, hoarding necessary items leaves healthcare providers, security companies and NGOs without, potentially putting the vulnerable at even greater risk.

While retailers struggle to restock their shelves, Tip Top, the South African nail colour and treatments brand, is lending a hand to fill a gap in the demand.

“We have taken the decision to become a

community player, by donating 50mℓ Tip Topbranded bottles of 70% alcohol-based liquid hand sanitiser to local non-profits, security companies and outreach organisations. In doing so, we are meeting their needs for hand sanitiser,” says Cheri Kahn of Tip Top. At this stage, Tip Top has supplied various beneficiaries of The Angel Network – Helping where help is needed, The CAP Group, Community Security Organisation – CSO Johannesburg, Mr Linde Twala – the father of the nation of Alex, Hatzolah medical rescue and Yad Aharon & Michael.

“This generosity has a much larger impact when it is provided directly to those who assist with the community during a time of need,” adds Kahn.

P C Review | MAY 2020 | 7

NEWS

DISINFECTANT PRODUCTION UNDERWAY AT CLARIANT TO AID VITAL INSTITUTIONS

Hans Holger Gliewe at the IFRA Annual Meeting in Paris in November 2018

New chair and board of directors for IFRA HANS HOLGER GLIEWE has taken office as the new chairman of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).

Gliewe succeeds Michael Carlos in the role, and now heads a body including representatives of the seven multinational regular members of IFRA and the Asia-Pacific, Europe, Latin America and North America regions.

“I am delighted to be taking on the role of IFRA chairman.

I look forward to guiding and supporting our members and dedicated team in the coming years, including on projects such as the implementation of the new IFRA Standards and our forthcoming sustainability snitiative,” says Gliewe.

Gliewe is a German national who has worked in the fragrance and flavour industry for 40 years. In 1980, he joined Haarmann & Reimer, which later became part of Symrise.

After holding regional and global management positions he was made a member of Symrise’s global executive boards in 2009 as president of the flavour & nutrition division. He later became chief sustainability officer, based in São Paulo, Brazil. He was chairman of the International Organization of the Flavour Industry from 2014 to 2016 and joined the IFRA board in 2017.

CLARIANT HAS STARTED monthly production of 2 million litres of disinfectant at its facility in Gendorf, Germany. Either directly or via repacking partners, this is then provided to regional hospitals and other vital institutions in Bavaria, which are currently facing limited availability of disinfectant to fight the COVID-19 outbreak.

Clariant is able to use its available infrastructure to blend the necessary ingredients into disinfectant at a large scale.

This allows the company to fulfil close to two-thirds of the monthly target demand of the Bavarian State, which aims for a total of 10 million litres of disinfectant to be produced over the next three months.

The associated costs are being financed by a crisis fund set up by the State of Bavaria and Clariant has offered its contribution at cost.

In order to realise the production of such large volumes of disinfectant, the speciality chemicals company has cooperated with several other companies. Other partnering suppliers fill packaging in suitable sizes, ranging from 1ℓ to 1 000ℓ , after which the disinfectant is distributed to regional hospitals and other vital institutions.

“Being able to establish production of such large quantities of disinfectant so quickly is an impressive achievement. I am very proud of our entire team at the Gendorf site and Clariant’s service functions, and very appreciative of the support from all other partnering companies and the Bavarian authorities. Together we can make a difference by supporting those in need,” says Stephan Trautschold, head of operations for Clariant’s industrial and consumer specialties business.

Clariant’s team at its facilities in Gendorf, represented by Franz Aigner, Alex Fink and Alexander Ellmann, which is produces about 2 million litres of disinfectant to assist in the fight against COVID-19

Croda donates glycerine to improve hand sanitisers CRODA IS SUPPORTING its customers in Western Europe which manufacture hand sanitisers by supplying them with additional glycerine, free of charge, during the outbreak of COVID-19.

The pandemic has seen a global shortage in hand sanitisers. To help its customers supply essential items during this time, Croda has gifted enough glycerine to manufacture 5 million bottles of hand sanitiser. The company plans to review with customers where more glycerine could be gifted.

The glycerine in hand sanitiser helps to protect the skin from the drying effects of the alcohol.

Croda’s leading saponin vaccine adjuvants are

8 | MAY

2020 | P C Review

also being donated to projects across the world which are working on developing a coronavirus vaccination. Whilst not confirmed whether the adjuvants will be in a final vaccine, the company’s smart science has a valuable role to play in the development of an effective and safe coronavirus vaccination.

In addition to the top priorities of the health and wellbeing of employees and keeping manufacturing sites safe, Croda has plans in place to ensure the continuity of operations and associated supply chains to ensure essential items can continue to be produced during the pandemic.

“The health and wellbeing of our employees are our priority. In addition to supporting our employees, we are pleased to be able to show our ‘purpose, smart science to improve lives’ in action, by supporting our customers to keep communities around the world safe with the additional manufacture of much needed hand sanitisers,” notes Tom Brophy, Croda’s managing director, Western Europe.

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9

COMPANY FOCUS

CanbiGold innovates to curb the spread of COVID-19 in taxis Cape Town-based holding company, CanbiGold, has designed a conversion of the standard air ventilation system in vehicles for the dispersion of hypochlorous acid, proven to be effective in the fight against COVID-19. This innovation is ideal for the South African taxi industry, to keep commuters and drivers safe and prevent the spread of the coronavirus.

T

he taxi industry has largely complied with the enforced guidelines during the national lockdown on

carrying capacity reduced to 70%,

HOCL is an FDA-approved disinfectant, scientifically proven to kill both viruses and bacteria

operating times and the use of personal protective equipment.

this problem, which led us to become

the COVID-19 (SARS-CoV-2) virus,

the first company in the world to

published by the Environmental

lockdown ends, the minibus taxi

develop a system for the dispersal of

Protection Agency in the US.

industry remains a weak spot in

HOCL, an anti-viral and anti-bacterial

Yet, when the nationwide

our country’s fight against the

disinfectant system for vehicles.”

transmission of COVID-19.

CEO of CanbiGold, Leon van der Linde, explains: “There are more than 200 000 minibus taxis in South Africa, transporting in excess of 15 million commuters daily.

Taxis could become

HOCL is an FDA-approved

DID YOU KNOW?

disinfectant, scientifically proven to kill both viruses and bacteria

on general and The estimated annual value of the South African hospital surfaces, minibus taxi industry is about and has been R50 billion, while 69% of all shown to kill viruses South African households use minibus taxis such as the Avian to commute. influenza A (H5N1) Source: SA Taxi

incubators for the virus, especially as it gets colder,

virus and severe acute

respiratory syndrome (SARS) coronavirus. In

Sanitiser protocol for public transport A number of aspects pertaining According to Van der Linde, South Africa has some of the most stringent lockdown restrictions in place.

“Social distancing is strongly encouraged to flatten the curve.

When things return to ‘normality’ and people start using mass transport networks, we will once again open ourselves up to infection. Our ViroGold taxi sanitiser protocol includes the air ventilation diffusor

and this could lead to further

March, it was added to the list

system of HOCL, as well as hand

lockdowns. We want to circumvent

of disinfectants for use against

sanitiser and mask spray, which is

10

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

COMPANY FOCUS

Using the

products utilising a unique patent

combination of of

(provisional status) and intellectual

Virogold’s HOCL

property, developed over a two-

sanitising solutions,

year period. CanbiGold is set to An example

santising the air in the vehicle and using the mask spray, hand

of a product transform to a public company in

the near future.

The results of research,

label, supplied by the CTFA

sanitiser or surface

development and applied

disinfectant, offers the

experience in the medical and

optimal way to sanitise

pharmaceutical industries have

the inside of a vehicle

enabled CanbiGold to identify

carrying commuters

products and services that will have

from home to work

a major effect on the cannabis

and back.

industry. With the establishment of an integrated business network,

Building a leading business

the company has formed firm

CanbiGold has filed

and strategic partners to build its

a non-provisional

business and take it to the highest

patent application

level in the shortest time possible.

at the American Patent Office.

The ViroGold CanbiGold’s ViroGold disinfectant range

CEO of CanbiGold, Leon van der Linde

range of products

inhale. This will ensure

It is CanbiGold’s aim to be recognised as a leader in the promotion, marketing and sale of its products and to promote the

currently includes a

benefits of cannabis to world health

mask spray, nasal spray,

authorities. It also plans on creating

hand sanitiser, general

a globally based brand offering

disinfectant spray and

everything from seeds, seedlings,

multipurpose taxi spray.

HOCL, organic nutrients and

CanbiGold is a private company registered

non-toxic and safe to

relationships with collaborators

growth mediums to equipment and cultivation modular units. •

in South Africa which specialises in the

that the entire cabin or vehicle

cultivation and production of

is sanitised and safe to transport

medicinal cannabis and related

CanbiGold – www.canbigold.com ViroGold - www.virogold.co.za

commuters. Initially our focus will be on the taxi industry as it’s our most sensitive public transport system at present. Thereafter, we plan to roll out the sanitiser protocol to other mass transport concerns such as

A PERFECT WEAPON TO FIGHT GERMS CANBIGOLD’S VIROGOLD DISINFECTANT

and is 100% safe for humans, because it’s

range is made up of an HOCL solution, based

chemical free, non-toxic and natural. It has

and distribution, we can deliver

on a unique mixture of water and salt. By

been used in the medical field for over a

huge quantities immediately,”

applying its patented proprietary production

century. Before antibiotics were available,

he concludes.

process, CanbiGold has created a stabilised

during World War I, HOCL was used to irrigate

pH version to optimise the efficacy, making it

and disinfect wounds. These days, it’s used in

unlike most other HOCL on the market.

everyday settings including hospitals, schools

busses. With regard to production

CanbiGold offers a novel way to convert a vehicle’s air-conditioning system into a ViroGold HOCL fogging or spraying system, which provides a practical solution to sanitise the air of a taxi, for example. The aim is to prevent virus droplets and air distribution in congested areas, with or without a HOCL anti-mask spray,

In its natural form, HOCL is a chemical that is produced by the body through white blood cells. It is the first response for combatting

and even in fresh produce sections in grocery stores.

CanbiGold’s ViroGold delivers the highest

infections caused by bacteria or viruses.

quality of stable HOCL, which is non-systemic,

HOCL is also essential in regulating the body’s

safe for humans and animals, non-toxic and

inflammation process and is the key element

does not contain any carcinogenic elements.

for wound healing and overall health. Experts

ViroGold HOCL is pure and stable when stored

say it is the perfect weapon to fight germs

at room temperature in its original packaging.

with or without HOCL hand sanitiser and/or a surface disinfectant. | MAY | 11 Review | MAY 2020 2020 | P PCCReview 11

INDUSTRY TALK

Doing business during COVID-19 The coronavirus has impacted almost every aspect of our lives and forever changed our perception of stability and future certainty. No other recent event in history has highlighted the fragility of our normal way of living and doing business quite like the global COVID-19 pandemic. Christine van Zyl of Christo Coetzee Attorneys investigates the effects on contractual obligations.

D

ue to the lockdown, parties

suspend the legal obligations of the parties

who had entered into contracts

for a specific period and allow a party

impossibility to perform must relate to

before the pandemic hit South

to elect to cancel a contract, should the

the actual contractual obligations,

Africa, suddenly find themselves

impossibility to perform extend beyond the

the event causing the impossibility

agreed period.

must be unforeseen and it occurs after

in a position where performance has become impossible.

However, one must be careful of simply

Local and global lockdowns and

It is important to note that the

conclusion of the contract. Our law

relying on a force majeure clause to

allows the extension of this principle to

subsequent effects thereof on business

suspend legal obligations. This is because

legislative changes that were introduced

relationships and deliverables have brought

our law places strong emphasis on the

subsequent to the conclusion of the

two legal aspects sharply into focus:

sanctity of contract and the wording of the

contract and which have the effect

1. supervening impossibility to perform

force majeure clause will determine whether

of rendering performance impossible.

2. force majeure clauses in many contracts.

the event obstructing performance, falls

The enactment of the directives and

How will these two principles alleviate the

within the parties intention of what they

regulations under the auspice of the

impact of COVID-19 on your business?

had defined as a force majeure. The courts

Disaster Management Act, could qualify

adapt a strict interpretation of the parties’

as such a legislative change.

A closer look at force majeure

intentions and a vaguely worded force

This is an event giving rise to impossibility of

majeure clause may not have the effect of

Review contracts now

performance. It can be either an act of God

relieving parties from their obligations.

In short, a business may rely solely on

(natural causes) or man (human agency).

its contractual terms or on the common law principle to navigate these difficult

reasonable foresight and unavoidable with

Supervening impossibility explained

reasonable care.

Should a contract not contain a force

formulate an approach carefully in order

majeure clause, or if a contract does

to avoid liability. If nothing else, now is the

a contract has the effect of removing the

contain such a clause, but the wording

best time to review your contracts and

so-called ‘unforeseeability’ of an event. It

does not allow its application to the specific

make provision, as far as possible, for an

may remove or alleviate the liability for

event, parties can rely on the common law

unforeseen event like COVID-19. •

damages as a result of a breach of contract,

principle of supervening impossibility to

due to the impossibility to perform on the

perform. This principle is relied on if a specific

occurrence of a specific event. Depending

event has made it impossible for the parties

on the wording of such a clause, it could

to fulfil their respective obligations.

The event is something unforeseeable with

Inclusion of a force majeure clause in

C C

times, but it is important to review and

Christo Coetzee Attorneys – www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za

Christo Coetzee Attorneys We are not just lawyers, we are part of your business and can assist you in the following areas: • Labelling and advertising compliance • Regulatory compliance • Commercial law • Contracts • Litigation

Christine van Zyl: BSc (Hons.) Biochemistry, LLB, Diploma Cosmetic Chemistry

Tel: 012 342 1930 | Email: office@christocoetzeelaw.co.za | Website: www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za

12 | MAY

2020 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Drug FOCUS Formulation & Design

Process expertise, investment protection & optimised solutions

Thoma s Hofma ier

The pharmaceutical industry is facing a number of significant challenges, including increased competition, new ingredients and digitalisation. In an interview, Thomas Hofmaier, global head of process technology pharma at Glatt, discusses the latest trends in solids production and how to overcome challenges.

Q: What are the latest trends in pharma production?

certain markets. This makes it essential

significantly newer approaches. Our

for operating systems to be easy to use,

modular Modcos system enables Glatt

Hofmaier: Global trends differ

reliable and error-free. In case of frequent

to configure the right system for every

significantly depending on the region

staff turnover, a short training period can

customer, so that we can cater to

or country. That’s why, at Glatt, we try

be a significant performance factor in

different requirements. This flexibility has

to position ourselves as flexibly and

the production process. Our digitalisation

been met with great interest by many

broadly as possible. We are driven by

solutions can also provide assistance in

of our customers and we have already

our customers’ project requirements.

this regard, helping to guide users when

supplied a number of systems. However

Take, for example, the trend towards

working with the systems.

manufacturing drugs in increasingly

Today’s pharmaceutical industry also

smaller quantities, which is indisputable.

expects suppliers to be able to provide

We are also seeing increased demand for

rapid service worldwide. With our global

cost-optimised production processes for

sites and partners like Reitech SA in

large production outputs. Our all-round

South Africa, we are able to help reduce

expertise enables us to offer optimised

or even prevent downtime. We are also

solutions that are precisely tailored to

introducing a new retrofit service to bring

customers’ specific project requirements.

older systems in line with the state-ofthe-art ones in terms of technology and

Q: What impact is the need to control costs having on your business?

safety, ultimately protecting investments.

pinch. However, this has less to do with

Q: Has supplier responsibility increased over the course of a system’s life cycle?

demands for discounts and far more

Hofmaier: Absolutely. I’ve seen a general

about the desire to increase system

trend in projects where operators and

efficiency. We offer solutions for this

system integrators rely even more on

as part of our portfolio and recently

the expertise of the supplier. Previously,

introduced a new tablet coater that

the equipment provided with the system

is up to 30% faster than other coating

was specified to a large extent by the

processes. Glatt can help to optimise

customer – now, we’re given a lot more

processes while rendering investments

freedom. Combined with our process

more effective. For customers without

expertise, this enables us to create and

any export experience, we can

offer superior solutions. We can also

also provide support in terms of

harness the experience of our colleagues

registration, packaging and storage

at Glatt Ingenieurtechnik as well as our

for the European area.

Excellence United partners.

Q: What kinds of services do pharma manufacturers expect from their equipment suppliers?

Q: What are the latest developments in continuous manufacturing?

Hofmaier: In every country, it is difficult

Hofmaier: Although continuous

to find qualified workers. This may be

production is a hot topic, there’s been

due to a lack of adequate training or

quite a bit of hesitation up to now given

that specialists are simply lacking in

this kind of production would require

Hofmaier: We are also feeling the

We are also introducing a new retrofit service to bring older systems in line – and we’ve been saying this for two decades now – continuous production is not necessarily the panacea for the pharmaceutical industry. We will continue to stick with the batch process and are working intensively on developing and optimising batch machines and systems.

Q: What new products and solutions will you be introducing this year?

Hofmaier: We are introducing the fastest coater in the world and additional modules as part of our expandable Multilab laboratory system. This includes a mixer module and a Twin Pro module.

The latter will enable the development of containment applications, while continuous production will remain an important topic. To this end, Glatt will continue to focus on ensuring the efficiency of both its batch and continuous applications. • *This interview is adapted from an original article written by Armin Scheuermann and published in the April 2020 edition of Pharma+Food

Glatt – www.glatt.com Reitech SA – www.reitech.co.za

P C Review | MAY 2020 | 13

PHARMA FOCUS//Drug FOCUS Formulation & Design

Approved to produce vital medicines Cipla has announced that its upgraded Mirren facility has been approved by SAHPRA to meet the high demand for critical medicine. This and the fact that its production is set to help grow the beleaguered economy, comes at a time when South Africa desperately needs good news. By Abby Vorster The upgraded Cipla Mirren facility

Continuing the quality mindset Cipla’s ethos is to ensure access to affordable, quality medicine. To drive this quality mindset, the company moved one of its leaders from the Cipla Medpro Manufacturing facility in Durban to Gauteng to take over the leadership position at the Cipla Mirren plant. This has seen a 67% increase in capacity at Cipla Mirren, which couldn’t have come at a more crucial time as the demand for immune boosters has gone through the roof. This is as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and with the imminent change of season to winter.

DID YOU KNOW?

S

ince Cipla acquired a 100%

“It took us exactly

stake in Mirren, the 35-year-

one year and one

old, over-the-counter (OTC)

month from the

pharmaceutical manufacturer in

time we started the upgrades to the

to increase capacity, improve safety and

building, to the time we

drive efficiencies at the manufacturing

received the approval. This

facility located in Benoni, Gauteng.

was an impressive journey and

Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla South Africa, explained the company had seen very high demand for the products produced

Mirren facility,” says Miller.

To reinforce the company’s current OTC portfolio, it now has three

absolutely remarkable from a timing and

dedicated manufacturing facilities on the

investment perspective,” he comments.

African continent – Cipla Mirren, CMM

With the Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) approval obtained from the South

in KwaZulu-Natal and the CiplaQCIL manufacturing facility in Kampala, Uganda.

African Health Products Regulatory

necessary capacity

Authority (SAHPRA), the Cipla Mirren facility

wasn’t in place and

is now running at full throttle to ensure

A good choice of expert technology

process flow wasn’t up

continuous supply of OTC medication.

The improvements at Cipla Mirren include

In January 2019, a

Miller adds: “This approval means

the construction of a new granulation

that we are fully compliant with all the

suite, while the existing granulation and

decision was taken

quality and regulatory requirements.

packaging suites as well as the raw

to refurbish the plant,

Our timing has been impeccable, as we

materials warehouse have been upgraded.

resulting in upgrades

have ensured that there are enough raw

The refurbished facility also includes a

to the liquids

materials and contingencies in place to

laboratory, finished goods warehouse and

suite, while the

produce a sufficient supply of medicine to

new air-handling and water-cooling system.

effervescents suite was knocked down

help treat colds and flu, alleviate pain and

and completely rebuilt.

boost people’s immune systems.”

14 | MAY 14

immune systems strong

at the facility, yet the

to Cipla’s standards.

Pau l Miller

critical people keep their

Cipla is committed to with supplementary servicing patient demand medicines. This has which has seen Mirren’s OTC sparked a demand products, such as Broncol for immune boosters, cough syrup, Coryx, Tensopyn and Ultimag, vitamins and minerals, become household and pain medications names in the last manufactured at the Cipla 35 years.

2018, it has invested more than R70 million

In an interview with P C Review,

“At this time, it’s absolutely

2020 | P C Review

In terms of new equipment, the company installed a Glatt Integrated

PHARMA FOCUS//Drug FOCUS Formulation & Design

Batch Granulation Line, among others, to increase capacity, improve safety and drive efficiencies.

Glatt’s solution was the best match for Cipla Mirren’s needs and offers the additional benefit of a significant improvement in safety for the machine operator. Miller adds that the local team was guided by its major shareholder, Cipla India, in its view that Glatt is a leader in pharmaceutical technology and processing machinery.

The multiplier effect in manufacturing has proven to generate more broadscale economic growth than any other sector

A Glatt Integrated Batch Granulation Line forms part of the new equipment installed during the refurbishment

record within the broader business

An interior view of the modern finished goods warehouse

The multiplier effect in manufacturing

to meet and exceed the regulator’s

has proven to generate more broad-

requirements,” Miller explains.

scale economic growth than any other sector, and Cipla is proud to play a role

Manufacturing leads to economic growth

in this regard. Miller adds:

While the COVID-19 outbreak continues

capacity will boost employment, not only

efficiencies and enhancing quality,

to add to business uncertainty, this

in the pharmaceutical industry

Glatt was very much in line with our

refurbished facility will make a valuable

but also in other industries as it has a

expectations to drive a brand new facility

contribution to the South African economy.

ripple effect.”

that could meet and exceed the GP

These contributions include the provision

certificate requirements of SAHPRA.

of a significant amount of new jobs and

manufacturing in South Africa, by

“We also felt that in terms of improving

“Increasing our local manufacturing

Cipla is 100% committed to supporting

This made it important for us to select

increased supply chain demands for

investing heavily in its people, the

a machine that we were not only familiar

raw materials and packaging used in

pharma industry and the greater

with but which also had a good track

pharma manufacturing.

manufacturing sector. •

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

15

PHARMA FOCUS//Drug FOCUS Formulation & Design

New hygienic instrument series from Vega A new series of compact pressure sensors and level switches rounds off Vega’s level and pressure instrumentation portfolio. The measurement specialist now offers both in a lowerpriced version for standard applications in automation. These new devices are designed to meet the hygiene requirements of the pharma industry with pinpoint accuracy.

V

ega is expanding its portfolio

with easy connectivity to existing control

to include a compact

systems and mobile devices.

instrument series, because

All materials are approved and tested according to FDA and EC 1935/2004. This is confirmed by independent laboratories

Standardisation is the basis

and institutes. The design of the instruments

only looking for solutions for extreme

Uniform standards extend through all areas

is certified according to the European

applications, but also for simple

of application. This applies especially to

EHEDG Directive and the North American

optimisation and efficiency improvement

the fully hygienic adapter system, which

3-A Sanitary Standards Inc. Both standards

in many areas. This new range proves

is designed to be compatible with the

prescribe the use of corrosion-resistant

automation can be both simple and

Vegabar pressure sensors, as well as the

materials only. Microorganisms are

highly efficient without sacrificing on

Vegapoint and Vegaswing level switches.

reliably removed by cleaning and have

dependability, hygiene or accuracy.

So, it can be selected and adapted,

no opportunity to proliferate on surfaces

according to individual needs and – if

or in cracks. The overall design of the

necessary – quickly exchanged.

components complies with GMP guidelines.

the pharma industry is not

The new Vegabar and Vegapoint instrument series are the answer to the growing demand for simple sensors with reduced variants that support increasingly efficient pharmaceutical production. This requires more standardised products that are exceptionally user friendly, but still cover all basic hygiene requirements. The series also calls for better networked products,

The concrete meaning of ‘hygienic by design’ can be seen even in the smallest components of the new sensor series Thanks to their hygienic design and surface finish, all new instruments easily withstand the increasingly intensive CIP and SIP processes and comply with all standards and approvals in the industry.

The aggressive cleaning agents used in CIP and the high steam temperatures used in SIP also demand correspondingly high chemical resistance as well as temperature and pressure resistance. The new Vegabar and Vegapoint instrument series are resistant to both, tolerating high temperatures without loss of function and they even cope with the combination of high temperatures and long exposure times.

The new Vegabar and Vegapoint instrument series

Comprehensive hygiene The concrete meaning of ‘hygienic by design’ can be seen even in the smallest components of the new sensor series. All surfaces of the Vegabar 29 and 39 sensors that come into contact with the product are made of stainless steel and

Efficient automation from a single source Hygienic design, system availability, modularisation and networking are the decisive factors for greater efficiency in pharmaceutical processes and for asserting oneself in the face of growing competition.

The new instruments are perfectly tailored to standard applications that nevertheless require high quality. The standardised adapter system of the compact versions provides the flexibility needed to keep effort and costs at a reasonable level through optimised spare parts stockkeeping. Their process fittings can be selected as needed and flexibly adapted to local requirements. There is also a lot of sensor intelligence on board, such as the standard IO-Link protocol, which ensures simple, intelligent communication.

This means that the instruments have a universal communication platform, which enables seamless data transfer and simple integration into the control system. They are thus prepared for the production processes of the future – and are already today making their contribution to the implementation of Industry 4.0. •

have optimal surface roughness values.

Vegabar 28 and 38 are available in highstrength ceramic versions while Vegapoint sensors come in Peek versions.

16

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

Vega – www.vega.com/pharmaceutical

PHARMA FOCUS//Drug FOCUS Formulation & Design

How to prevent potential drug-polymer interactions Thorsten Agnese and Thorsten Cech of BASF SE’s European application lab for pharma solutions investigate the benefits of delivering gastric-resistant functionality to a tablet, by applying a colourless top coat based on Kollicoat MAE 30 DP.

I

n the field of gastricresistant film-coating, a lot of obstacles can occur during formulation development. Some

pharmaceutical actives, such as

values were recorded as L*a*b* values

Table 2: Set-up coating trials

of the CIELAB colour space.

Sub-coat Top coat Batch size

4.0kg

4.0kg

12rpm

12rpm

65°C

55°C

To compare the effect of the MAE top coat on the hue, the colour reading of the sub-coated tablet was

omeprazole, are prone to interactions

Drum speed

with the functional polymer poly

Inlet air temperature

(methacrylic acid-co-ethyl acrylate)

Inlet air quantity

450m³/h

450m³/h

appraisal was done on the basis of the

(MAE). Yet, one should consider

Spray rate

13g/min

13g/min

delta E value (see Figure 1).

that the coating material itself is

Atomising pressure

1.8 bar

1.8 bar

also vulnerable to interactions with

Pattern air pressure

1.8 bar

1.8 bar

excipients, like pigments or colourants present in the coating formulation. This

Coating process

work was set to investigate whether the

For coating equipment, the XL Lab

gastric-resistant functionality can be

01 (Manesty) was used. The coater

applied to a colourless film, coated

was assembled with a mid-sized drum

onto a tablet bearing a coloured

480mm in diameter. For the nozzle, the

instant-release sub-coat.

OptiCoat gun with an orifice diameter of 0.8mm was used.

17

25

20

MAE was applied as top coat with

forming polymer. For the sub-coat,

6mg/cm², 8mg/cm² and 12mg/cm².

seven Kollicoat IR- (BASF) based ready-

The test was conducted with various

to-use coating systems with different

amounts of plasticiser (see Table 3).

Ludipress LCE

74.0

Kollidon CL-F

5.0

Kollidon VA64 fine

5.0

Mg-stearate

0.5

% present in the coat

schema (see Table 2). five coating levels: 3mg/cm², 4mg/cm²,

15.5

% related to the polymer content

13

selected for the gastric-resistant film-

Caffeine, gran.

0.2-0.5

Plasticiser content

20

citrate (TEC) (Jung-bunzlauer) were

Quantity (%)

Table 3: Plasticiser content in the top-coat formulations

15

combination with the plasticiser triethyl

Ingredients

(Rhopoint Instruments).

diameter, were coated according to

Kollicoat MAE 30 DP (BASF), in

Table 1: Composition of the cores

The gloss value (n=5) was determined using a Novo Curve 60°

9

Round-shaped tablets, 8.0mm in

gain of 3.5%.

different top coats (see Table 3). The

10

Materials and methods

colours were applied, with a weight

compared with those bearing the

Dissolution testing

Figure 1: Equation for calculating the ∆E-value

The dissolution test (n=3) was

Results and discussion

conducted for the first two hours at pH

Seven batches were coated, each

1.1 (HCl, 0.08mol/ℓ; volume 880mℓ)

with one base colour. After uniting all

and 37°C (+ 1K). The paddle speed

tablets, every individual batch used

was set at 50rpm. By adding 20mℓ of

for the top-coat trial bore an equal

a concentrated sodium phosphate

number of tablets of each colour.

buffer system, the pH value was

TEC was chosen as a highly suitable

adjusted to 6.8 for an additional

plasticiser for MAE in this investigation1.

60 minutes. The drug release was

Four different top-coat formulations

determined photometrically via

were applied (see Table 3 and

online measuring.

Figure 2).

The plasticiser level of 10% was the

Colour and gloss measuring

only one that resulted in a brittle film

used for the core formulation: caffeine

For colour measuring (n=10) the

showing cracks immediately after the

gran. 0.2 to 0.5 (Siegfried); Ludipress

Datacolor 400 (Datacolor) was used.

coating process (see Figure 3). All

LCE; Kollidon CL-F; Kollidon VA64 (all

The experimental setup was as follows:

the other concentrations were found

BASF SE); and magnesium stearate

aperture USAV; light source D65 and

to be suitable. Interestingly, even

(Baerlocher). See Table 1.

observe angle 10°. The colourimetric

though it was used with a maximum

The following components were

18

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Drug FOCUS Formulation & Design Figure 2: Scheme of the sub- and top-coated core

Figure 3: Cracks in the MAE top-coat formulation containing 10% TEC

concentration of 25%, the resulting coat did not appear tacky. same applies for the gloss values, which

All applicable plasticiser concentrations of 15%, 20% and 25%

remained unchanged when different

delivered full functionality (see Figure

coating levels of MAE were applied as a top coat (see Figure 6).

4). No drug release was found during the first two hours of the dissolution

The impression of the initial core

testing. After altering the pH to 6.8, an

colour was somehow affected by the

Conclusion

instant drug release with hardly any

application of the MAE top coat whereas

The application of a coloured sub-

lag-time was observed. More important,

the highest impact could be seen for

functional coat and a colourless

the actual drug release was found to

sunset yellow (see Figure 5). However,

functional coat is an easy way to

be scarce depending on the coating

the change in colour appearance was

prevent potential interactions between

level of MAE. Even with 12mg/cm² MAE

found to be hardly dependent on the

the API and film-forming polymer. By

applied, caffeine was released rapidly.

coating level and plasticiser content. The

using a functional polymer without any

Figure 4: Dissolution profiles of tablets bearing different coating levels of three different MAE formations

Figure 6: Gloss-values of cores bearing different coating levels of MAE top coat

Figure 5: Delta E-values, comparing the final hue with the colour impression of the sub-coated core

further excipients except a plasticiser, the benefits of the coloured coating systems (such as colour matching) can also be utilised2.

Applying MAE as a colourless top coat provides an easy coating process and reliable drug release functionality. •

REFERENCES: 1. V. Bühler; Kollicoat Grades – Functional Polymers for the Pharmaceutical Industry; BASF SE, January 2007 2. K. Kolter, A. Maschke, T. Schmeller; Colour matching for instant release coated tablets; seventh PBP World Meeting; 8 to 11 March, 2010; Valletta, Malty

BASF – www.basf.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

19

PACKAGING MACHINERY & AUTOMATION

Strip packaging technology pushes sustainability boundaries Romaco Siebler and Huhtamaki are adopting new approaches to primary packaging for pharmaceutical solids with push-through strips, known as push packs. Andreas Detmers, head of technical solutions at Romaco Pharmatechnik, takes a detailed look at the benefits of this new technology.

C

limate-friendly, material-

responsible for push pack development at

because we’ve worked together effectively

saving, affordable,

Romaco Pharmatechnik.

in the past. Romaco and Huhtamaki are

customisable and ultra-thin – Romaco Siebler’s push pack

The standard and high-barrier push

two companies with complementary

pack versions are manufactured from a

expertise,” reports Fabio Daidone, senior

manufacturing technology heralds in a

five-layer, laminated PE or surlyn, aluminium

sales manager at Huhtamaki.

new era in primary packaging for solid

and PET foil supplied by Huhtamaki. The

pharma products.

foil’s push-through function is achieved

Unique heat-sealing technology

by perforating the outer PET layer. In the

Romaco Siebler’s strip packaging

Huhtamaki, the Finnish film and foil

standard version, push packs have an

machines are designed to process

specialist, to develop its push pack

aluminium barrier layer, either 9μm or 12μm

a very wide range of heat-sealable

product family. It is currently the only

thick. High-barrier push packs, which have

materials, from paper-aluminium foils

machinery supplier in the market with the

to meet very high air, light and moisture

and plastic to polyester. To enable safe

capability to process the new, ultra-thin,

tightness requirements, are made using

and absolutely tight pharma packaging

PVC-free Huhtamaki foils into safe and

25µm aluminium foil. What’s more is these

to be manufactured from the new

absolutely tight pharmaceutical packs.

push packs contain zero PVC, which is

Huhtamaki foils, the Siebler heat-sealing

considered harmful to human health and

technology was specially adapted to

the environment.

handle laminates with an aluminium foil

Romaco Siebler partnered with

These push-through strip packs are the partnership’s alternative to the established blister packaging forms currently on the

thickness of between 9μm and 25μm.

market. Push packs provide equivalent

A world first

barrier properties to blisters and are

Both the standard and high-barrier push

currently the only ones on the market

opened in the same way – you simply

packs have a much better eco-profile than

capable of processing Huhtamaki’s ultra-

press the tablet out of the push pack

blister packs. Yet Romaco and Huhtamaki

thin foils into primary packaging, in line

with your thumb. They are also similar in

have gone one step further, introducing the

with the pharma industry’s safety and

appearance to conventional blister packs.

world’s first recyclable strip packaging for

tightness requirements – and doing so

pharmaceutical solids.

using recyclable materials,” says Izsak.

Major cost saving Since push packs are sealed all round with two foils, far thinner aluminium barrier layers can be realised than with coldformed blisters. The thinner barrier ranges between 9μm and 25μm depending on the

“Our heat-sealing machines are

Push packs help pharmaceutical companies to not only reduce their carbon footprint but also their production costs The eco push pack version consists of

Push packs are manufactured on the

primary packaging’s barrier specifications.

polyolefin laminate, which can be disposed

Romaco Siebler HM 1 series of vertical

With aluminium-aluminium blisters,

of as recyclable material. An impressive 70%

heat-sealing machines, which can pack

because the aluminium is deep-drawn, a

or more of the material can be recycled

up to 7 000 tablets per minute.

much thicker foil is inevitable. This is why a

back into the material loop. The key lies in

The HM 1-350 and HM 1-600 models

cold-formed aluminium-aluminium blister

the unique structure of the Huhtamaki foil –

(with a maximum foil width of 350mm or

weighs more than twice as much as a

recyclable push packs comprise over 90%

600mm) are also suitable for this purpose

high-barrier push pack produced on a

polyethylene and polypropylene, which

in addition to the HM 1-230 type with a

Siebler strip packaging machine.

belong to the same material class.

maximum foil width of 230mm.

The markedly lower material

Huhtamaki’s special new foils were

In future, it will also be possible to

consumption is complemented by

tested extensively on a Romaco Siebler HM

produce push packs on heat-sealing

significant cost economies: a potential

1-230 strip packaging machine at PacTech,

machines in the Romaco Siebler

saving of up to 60% is possible compared

the Romaco laboratory located in

HM 2 series.

to standard aluminium-aluminium blisters.

Karlsruhe, Germany. The optimum sealing

HM 2 machines are designed to pack

conditions were determined while the foils

medical devices like pre-filled syringes or

were subjected to various leak tests.

eye drops in unit doses,

“Push packs help pharmaceutical companies to not only reduce their carbon footprint but also their production costs,” explains Rolf Izsak, the product manager

20

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

“We decided to develop our new, pushthrough foils in partnership with Romaco

which have to be fed horizontally due to their geometry.

PACKAGING MACHINERY & AUTOMATION Die-cut packaging formats

Effervescent tablets

Freely selectable packaging formats – or the

Tablets and capsules in numerous shapes

so-called design strips – can be realised on

and sizes can be packed in push packs

Romaco Siebler’s strip packaging machines.

on heat-sealing machines from Romaco

solution, features a pick-and-place

For this purpose, the machine can be

Siebler – even large effervescent tablets,

system designed to process smaller

equipped with a continuous cutting station

which are highly sensitive to humidity.

batches with different pack sizes and

at the customer’s request. Two servo-driven

To make effervescent tablets, a tablet

with a high transfer speed, reliable processes and cost-efficiency.

2. Siebler FlexTrans, the servo-driven transfer

enables more flexibility if the strip layout or stack height varies.

punches then cut strips out of the foil layer

press must be installed upstream of the

with a drawing cut.

heat-sealing machine. The tablets are

Romaco Promatic cartoners and case

fed to the Siebler HM 1 on conveyor

packers can then be used for the

“Round or star-shaped, stylised hand, a ‘thumbs up’ look or just about any other format is possible,” Izsak comments. “The ability to customise shapes and sizes allows pharma

belts and packed directly in push packs following the

DID YOU KNOW? Thanks to the tear-resistant PET

compression process.

“We advise our customers to consider

secondary and final packaging. Ultimately, Romaco customers can reap all the benefits of a complete production line from a single source.

and healthcare

film, children find it extremely one of Romaco difficult to open push packs whereas seniors or an elderly person Kilian’s tablet presses can press out the tablets without primary packaging an for manufacturing any difficulty. Medicines packaged attractive and distinctive effervescent tablets, in push packs also have a longer appearance with high because they’re shelf life due to the relatively small cavities, which result recognition value, setting fine-tuned for use with in smaller air pockets. themselves apart from the Romaco Siebler strip

First product tests under way

companies to give their

At PacTech in Germany, the first product

competition.” Push packs also

push packs have already been received

offer several compelling arguments from a marketing perspective. They can be

packaging machines,” Izsak comments.

Romaco Siebler proposes two alternative

tests with standard and high-barrier push packs are currently under way. These tests are being conducted on behalf of various leading pharmaceutical customers. The first project enquiries for the new recyclable

by Romaco. The recyclable version was officially unveiled to a wider audience at

printed on both sides and have a larger

solutions for transferring the strip packs to

the CPhI trade show in Frankfurt, Germany,

print area for targeted marketing messages

the modules positioned downstream:

in November 2019.

than is possible with blister packs.

1. Belt transfer with Siebler FixTrans is

Push packs are manufactured on a Romaco Siebler HM 1 heatsealing machine

Izsak says, “The huge interest in our push

especially appropriate for large batches

pack product family and particularly the

with identical pack widths. It impresses

recyclable strip packs is confirmation that ‘sustainability’ is also becoming top of the

The recyclable push packs are made from polyolefin laminate

agenda in the pharmaceutical industry.

That’s why we’re committed to optimising our push pack technology even further in the future and to moving forward decisively with sustainability initiatives in other product segments too.”•

Romaco Group – push-packs.romaco.com Huhtamaki – www.huhtamaki.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

21

PERSONAL CARE

What does ‘natural’ mean in cosmetics labelling?

Despite perceptions in the market, natural cosmetics are not necessarily safer or more effective than their synthetic counterparts. Dr Somia EL Azzab, senior toxicologist at Intertek, unpacks the differences between natural and synthetic ingredients and the impact consumers’ views can have on these two concepts.

D

espite widespread use of the

in enhancing the safety of personal

term ‘natural’ in personal care

care products.

products, the United States Food and Drug Administration (US

Preservatives (which are mainly synthetics) are important ingredients

FDA) has not officially defined the term. It

in personal care products, as they

also hasn’t released any guidelines on its

keep cosmetics free of mould and

use. The ISO standard 16128 does, however,

other contaminants longer than those

include technical definitions and criteria for

without preservatives. They are also

the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’.

essential in products containing a

What a consumer may perceive as

variety of natural plant extracts, which

‘natural’ when it comes to personal care

can serve as food for micro-organisms.

products could differ from a manufacturer’s

Without preservatives, micro-organisms

use of the term. Even the phrase ‘chemical-

in the air can pollute a container that

free’, which can be used to indicate that a

has been open for only seconds.

component of a fragrance is checked to ensure it complies with IFRA’s standards

product’s ingredients are naturally derived,

to help guarantee consumer safety. This

regardless of their origin, are still made up of

Chemical fragrances and essential oils

chemicals – even water.

Some natural ingredients are not as safe as

the safety of natural ingredients and

consumers may believe. Many consumers

synthetic options.

may be misleading, because all ingredients,

is just one of many examples comparing

Natural versus synthetic

are of the impression that essential oils are

Chemicals that are synthetic or manmade

safer than synthetic fragrances because

consumers with crucial information on the

have a perceived negative reputation. Some

they are natural. But this is incorrect.

components used in a product. Consumers

are known to cause endocrine disruption,

Essential oils are highly concentrated

Ingredients listings or INCI listings provide

often check the ingredients listed on a

developmental disorders and other toxic

essences and can contain high levels of

product’s label and they carefully follow the

health effects. This is why many brands now

skin sensitisers and other natural active

instructions for use regardless of whether the

advertise that their products are free of or

composites. While essential oils are natural,

product is natural or synthetic.

free from synthetic chemicals, to imply their

they are still composed of chemicals, albeit

products are safe.

of plant origin, and can be unsafe when

the cosmetics industry to assist with

applied topically or ingested.

compliance and the safety assessments

However, not all synthetically derived

Intertek offers a range of services for

To the contrary, synthetic fragrances

of cosmetic ingredients. Please send an

synthetic chemicals are not linked to

are tightly regulated by the International

email to hersuk-regtox@intertek.com for

health problems and play a crucial role

Fragrance Association (IFRA). Every single

more information. •

ingredients or products are unsafe. Many

22

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

PERSONAL CARE

Skin brightening, sun protection and anti-ageing all in one While skin care trends continue to change, the demand for even-tone, glowing skin remains the same. It’s a principal demand, often challenging to achieve in a safe and effective way. But with pTeroWhite from Sabinsa, personal care brands now have access to an effective skin brightening ingredient with proven tyrosinase and melanin inhibition properties as well as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.

T

beauty, touch, protection and

Characteristics of ageing skin

sensation. Bright and youthful skin

Skin changes are

is a sign of health and vitality. The

among the most

he skin is the principle organ of

desire to have a beautiful and healthy skin has been a centuries’ old quest. The skin also defines our standard of beauty and responds to care and attention.

Ageing is a natural process, which is influenced by internal factors such as genetics, hormones and vitamin deficiencies, as well as external factors

DID YOU KNOW? pTeroWhite comes from the

demonstrated in an open-label, single-arm monocentric efficacy

study. The study heartwood of the Indian kino tree, Pterocarpus marsupium.

The involved 38 healthy visible signs of extract has been standardised volunteers, who ageing, leading

by Sabinsa to provide 90% pterostilbene.

The company applied a cream to wrinkles and ensures the sustainable supply containing 0.4% sagging. Ageing of the active ingredient through its award-winning 10-year pterostilbene for a is an accumulation reforestation programme in period of eight weeks. of damage to India to cultivate 166 600 kino saplings on 250 The dermatological macromolecules, cells, forestland acres. tissues and organs. The

like ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure,

number of pigment-containing

environmental toxins, smoking and

cells (or melanocytes) decreases, yet

assessment, together with

instrumental and image analysis, suggests that pTeroWhite effectively

improper care. With a little care and proper

the remaining melanocytes increase in

improves skin brightness and elasticity,

treatment, the skin can be revitalised, and

size. Ageing skin thus appears thinner,

and reduces the appearance of fine lines

the ageing process can be slowed down to

paler and translucent. Large pigmented

and wrinkles. The assessment also shows

keep skin healthy and glowing.

spots may appear in sun-exposed areas.

it improves skin texture when compared to

Changes in the connective tissue reduce

baseline in the subjects studied.

pTeroWhite effectively improves skin brightness and elasticity, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles Hydration also plays an important role in preserving the skin’s integrity and tone.

When skin is exposed to sunlight, UV

the skin’s strength and elasticity.

An efficient anti-ageing compound or formulation would slow down the effects

in both male and female subjects, with

of ageing and restore a more youthful

regular usage of the pTeroWhite cream

appearance. They must provide a multi-

(see Figure 1). At the end of the study, a

pronged approach to brighten the skin, for example, by targeting pigment production, as well as have antioxidant activity and even produce anti-inflammatory effects.

Sabinsa has developed a number of cosmetic ingredients to maintain skin health,

is absorbed by skin molecules which

improve the skin tone and brighten the skin

generates harmful compounds called

with clinically proven efficacy and safety.

reactive oxygen species (ROS). These species are highly reactive molecules

Skin brightening study

that cause oxidative damage. ROS can

pTeroWhite from Sabinsa is a standardised

react with cellular components like cell

extract from the dried wood of

walls, lipid membranes, mitochondria and

Pterocarpus marsupium, containing a

DNA, leading to skin damage, irregular

minimum of 90% pterostilbene.

pigmentation and increasing the visible signs of ageing.

24

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

A positive change was observed at all time points in skin hydration and elasticity,

The anti-ageing and skin brightening effects of pTeroWhite cream were

Figure 1: Skin hydration assessment by Corneometer on the forehead and cheek at week two (day 15) and week four (day 30) versus baseline all p<0.0001

PERSONAL CARE Figure 2: Cutometer assessment of skin elasticity:

(A) Gross elasticity: week four versus baseline p<0.0001 and week eight versus baseline p<0.0001; maximum amplitude of elasticity: week four versus baseline p<0.0001 and week eight versus baseline p<0.0001; net elasticity: week four versus baseline p<0.0002 and week eight versus baseline p<0.0001; visco elasticity: week four versus baseline p=0.2933 and week eight versus baseline p<0.0235

(B) Skin evaluation of fine lines, wrinkles and skin texture using Antera; fine lines, medium and large wrinkles, and skin texture: week four and week eight versus baseline all p<0.0001

The Indian kino tree, Pterocarpus marsupium

The cream showed an SPF value of 8.84 ±0.01, in vitro, while pTeroWhite as an ingredient had an SPF value of 21.73 ±0.06.

The study also demonstrated the potent antioxidant effects of pTeroWhite in the various in vitro and cellular test systems.

With the current status of chemical sunscreens, and the concerns about their systemic absorption and safety, this study has demonstrated pTeroWhite (C) Dermatological assessment: mean value for shade card assessment for skin fairness of the forehead, cheek, untreated control, forehead versus untreated control and cheek versus untreated control at week two versus baseline p=0.9999, week four versus baseline p<0.0001, and untreated control week two and week four versus baseline p=0.9999

is a safe alternative for topical sunprotective formulations.

Natural and effective significant improvement was also observed

eight weeks was safe and improved skin’s

Natural ingredients usually have the

in under-eye fine lines at all time points and

texture and tone, helping to keep skin

potential to protect against the toxic effects

in the area or size of wrinkles, frown lines

moisturised, supple and younger-looking.

of UV radiation, to improve skin tone and

and crow’s feet (see Figure 2). Pterostilbene

elasticity and increase skin’s brightness.

cream was able to improve the skin’s

SPF study

luminosity with continuous application.

In another clinical study, the effect of

shown its potential as a safe and effective

All the study subjects agreed that the

pTeroWhite as a natural SPF ingredient

ingredient in topical formulations for

test product made their skin moisturised,

was demonstrated. A cream formulation

sunscreens and UV protection. It is also an

brighter, younger-looking, firmer and

containing 0.4% of pTeroWhite was

effective skin care ingredient to reduce the

more even-toned. They also confirmed no

evaluated on 12 healthy volunteers, as per

markers of skin ageing and brighten the

product-related skin irritation or intolerance

the ISO 24444:2010 regulations, resulting

skin tone. •

and no adverse events were recorded

in an SPF value of 6.2 ±1.30. The cream

during the study.

was found to be safe and non-irritant in

The study concluded that an application of pterostilbene cream twice daily for

a repeated patch test conducted on 25 healthy individuals, prior to the SPF study.

Natural pterostilbene, pTeroWhite, has

Sabinsa – www.sabinsa.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

25

PERSONAL CARE

A clean approach to personal care There is a growing trend among consumers for clean beauty, but as suppliers to the personal care industry, do we even know what this means?

Online searches reveal that there is no one single definition or understanding of the concept.

By Karen Maier

S

ome of the opinions of clean beauty

Poppies, the pretty red flowers loved

centre around ethical consumerism

the world over for their uplifting

– raw materials and packaging must

appearance and which are seen

be ethically and sustainably sourced

as a symbol of fertility, luck

and that beauty products are not only

and abundance, also yield

‘clean’, but also ‘green’.

a bounty of health and

There is also the idea that ‘less is more’

wellness benefits.

and clean formulations should contain fewer

Extracts of the flowers

ingredients, but the most persistent definition

and poppy seeds were

is around the use of natural ingredients.

used in traditional

Some people stress that clean products

phytomedicines to

are ‘all-natural’, whereas others believe that

alleviate coughs or

while natural ingredients may be important,

abdominal cramps

over-processed and harsh or irritating

and inflammation,

natural extracts can do more harm than a

in addition to being

good synthetic component.

used in skin care

Merck can supply ingredients that speak

preparations to

to the three most persistent trends evident

soothe and improve

in all the opinions and definitions, supplying

appearance of the skin.

truly natural, sustainably sourced raw

RonaCare Poppy SE

materials while providing customers with

is natural and safe and

pared-down but effective formulations.

can be used in products aimed at sensitive

Power of the poppy

skins. For the formulator

RonaCare Poppy SE is one of the products

it delivers proven

in Merck’s portfolio that can be used with

efficacy, ease of use and

confidence in clean beauty products. This

compatibility with other

extract is obtained from the seed of Papaver

cosmetic ingredients. This

rhoeas, or the poppy, using a clean and

natural and sustainable

sustainable critical CO2 extraction process.

extract offers a variety of

Table 1: Natural youth oil

Phase

A

Ingredients

INCI

(%)

RonaCare Bisabolol nat.

Bisabolol

0.20

RonaCare Poppy SE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Tocopherol

1.00

Myritol 331

Cocoglycerides

15.00

Cetiol C5

Coco-Caprylate, Tocopherol

35.00

Myritol 318

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

25.00

Organic Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis [Jojoba] Seed Oil)

15.00

Refined Avocado Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil (Persea Gratissima [Avocado] Oil)

8.60

all-rac-alpha-Tocopherol

Tocopherol

0.20

This eight-ingredient natural youth oil is an ideal example of a minimalistic formulation that meets the needs of clean beauty

26

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

PERSONAL CARE

RonaCare Poppy SE … can be used with confidence in clean beauty products

• natural and safe

attractive applications due to its activity.

• conforms to COSMOS, Ecocert and

It improves skin density, elasticity and

NaTrue standards

radiance, making it ideal for use in massage

• reduces volume of under-eye bags

oils and skin improvement balms.

• minimises visibility of dark circles

Another unique personal care benefit

• improves skin’s overall density, elasticity,

of RonaCare Poppy SE is improving the

firmness, luminosity and radiance

appearance of the décolleté area. This

• smoothes away cellulite

sensitive area is often exposed to environmental stressors and, as women

(Glycero-3-phosphate dehydrogenase)

age, it is impacted by gravity. To

activity. It also activates lipolysis, resulting in

combat these issues, a targeted

an increased release of free fatty acids, and

product promoting firmness and

a more svelte, glowing body.

radiance could be a welcome addition to a caring beauty routine.

When applied to skin, RonaCare

RONACARE POPPY SE ADVANTAGES AT A GLANCE:

At the end of a long and busy day,

• suitable for sensitive skin • can be readily processed in formulations • tested ex vivo for lipolysis benefits and in vitro for lipogenesis benefits while two further in vivo studies have been done to determine its efficacy.

women may suffer from tired, heavy legs – products that improve micro-circulation will

way to reduce the number of ingredients

alleviate these symptoms.

and still have a uniquely effective product.

the orange peel appearance so

Less is more

approach, natural, or both – there are

Poppy SE can be used to smooth away cellulite naturally and reduce

Whether you choose a minimalist

dreaded by women worldwide. Its dual

When formulating clean beauty products,

solutions available to you from reputable

lipolytic activity gently and effectively

cognisance should be taken of how many

suppliers who can support you in the quest

sculpts the body and supports women

raw materials are added to a product as

to go clean.•

in their quest to be the best version of

many consumers do not want unnecessary

themselves. Firstly, it prevents lipogenesis

ingredients in their personal care products.

through the inhibition of G3PDH

Using multi-functional ingredients is a clever

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

REVEAL THE SKIN’S NATURAL BEAUTY • • • •

Supports skin density and firmness Reduces dark circles and eye bags Smooths away cellulite Improves skin’s overall radiance and elasticity

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

27

PERSONAL CARE

Regain consumer trust with modern hygiene technology Consumers’ heightened awareness of hygiene as a result of the global COVID-19 pandemic, is impacting the way they approach beauty and personal care products. Experts say this is especially relevant when it comes to consumers’ perception of ingredient safety, the shelf life of products and substantiated hygiene claims. By Abby Vorster

S

afe and effective synthetic

Formulation guide: Hand Hygiene Gel – cleansing without rinsing

ingredients have a key role to play Ingredient

INCI

Water

Aqua

Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymerl

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

0.3

Sodium Hydroxide 10% solution

Aqua (and) Sodium Hydroxide

0.4

Glycerin

Glycerin

2.0

SymGuard CD

Phenylpropanol (and) o-Cymen-5-ol (and) Decylene Glycol

0.5

SymMollient W/S

Trideceth-9 Peg-5 Isononanoate (and) Aqua

always better, especially when it comes to

Ethanol

Alcohol (and) Aqua

ingredient safety and shelf life, making way

Fragrance – Bilberry

Parfum

0.5

Extrapone Aloe Vera (Organic) GW

Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

1.0

in ensuring brand owners and manufacturers can meet these new

personal care needs. Clare Hennigan, a

Phase A

senior beauty analyst at Mintel, explains that brands also need to educate consumers

B

on the benefits and stability of synthetic ingredients, while providing evidence to confirm product safety.

This will push the notion that natural isn’t

for modern, safe and more environmentally friendly hygiene enabling active ingredients.

There is also an opportunity for brand

C

D

% 63.3

2.0 30.0

Made with aloe vera leaf extracts, this hygiene hand gel gently purifies skin, giving a wonderful fresh and clean sensation, while keeping hands soft

owners to include additional benefits in personal care products, particularly when it

measures, Symrise is an ideal supplier

detected at much lower concentrations

comes to hand hygiene and bar soap and

to partner with in order to meet

when compared to the typical use level

liquid cleansing products.

these needs.

in cosmetics of up to 0.5%.

Due to consumer overexposure,

In oral hygiene applications, it’s

Novel cosmetic hygiene technology

environmental concerns and

effective against oral biofilm and

regulatory changes, conventional

prevents oral malodour.

SymGuard CD from Symrise fulfils many

organohalogen systems, such as

of the aforementioned demands. The

triclosan or triclocarban, are being

fast-acting hygiene ingredient has a

removed from many cosmetic

dual function, protecting the cosmetic

products. This is seeing more

formulation and the skin of the consumer. It

and more manufacturers

is suitable for use in personal wash products,

incorporating modern

hand cleansing gels, deodorants and

multifunctional

oral care products. SymGuard CD does

ingredients with

not contain organohalogens, offering

antimicrobial properties

a sustainable alternative to traditional

in their personal

ingredients such as triclosan or triclocarban.

care formulations.

In its search for alternatives to

Anticipating this

“We have dedicated ourselves to provide the cosmetics industry with effective alternatives to traditional

DID YOU KNOW?

antimicrobials. Our aim is to always offer customers and consumers cuttingedge solutions,” says Dr

In vitro efficacy data showed 0.5% SymGuard Florian Genrich, CD in an aqueous liquid senior global soap solution can even product manager compete with 0.3% at Symrise. triclosan and 0.1% As a fast-acting benzalkonium modern hygiene chloride.

organohalogen actives, Symrise

development, Symrise has

developed SymGuard CD as a safe, readily

heightened its R&D efforts

biodegradable and skin-friendly ingredient,

to produce SymGuard CD as a

which it launched a few years ago.

dedicated ingredient that meets the

odour, easy to process liquid. It is highly

specific requirements of hygiene and

soluble in alcohols, glycols, vegetable

surfactant-based cosmetics.

oils and cosmetic esters. •

Safe and versatile The demand for skin-safe eco-friendly ingredients has been steadily increasing

Effective antioxidant

for years. With its sustainable approach

SymGuard CD is also an efficient

and environmentally protective

antioxidant; its antioxidant activity is

28

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

ingredient, SymGuard CD is available in a colourless, low-

Symrise – www.symrise.com

PERSONAL CARE

A route to innovation for blue cosmetics Obtained using a sustainable and eco-friendly process, microalgae extracts meet the needs of the trend for natural cosmetics. These extracts are also ideal for brands looking to evolve their products for future generations.

T

he sea has always been an immense source of precious materials

DID YOU KNOW?

A novel marine resource

Microalgae is one Marine BlueVital C is particularly interesting a high-performance, and an inspiration to natural and fully COSMOS marine resource, -approved material, which humanity as a whole. which is rich in aquatic is based on patented microalgae technology.

For centuries, mankind organisms and This is as a result of has turned to the sea to capable of providing Natura-Tec’s advanced research and long-term obtain resources to sustain a wealth of benefits in involvement in the life and drive evolution. This biofuel market. cosmetics applications. is because the vast expanse Microalgae grow as a of water covering the planet result of photosynthesis is fundamental to the equilibrium of and internal metabolism, physical and biological cycles on Earth. producing naturally original The market for natural cosmetics has and unique compounds. also seen suppliers of ingredients turn Developed from the to the sea in a quest for novel active Cylindrotheca fusiformis ingredients that provide elements of species of microalgae, Naturaimproved efficacy, a natural source, Tec’s Marine BlueVital C is made innovation and sustainability. This up of a complex structure of elements initiated the ‘blue’ trend, which beneficial to the skin. These include: has remained until today, offering • amino acids and eicosapentaenoic an exciting and seemingly infinite acid (EPA) spectrum of possibilities.

• omega-3, which plays a role in inhibiting It is essential that ingredient-sourcing leukotrienes, mediators of inflammation strategies for marine and other carotenoids, particularly fucoxanthin, natural ingredients are implemented which is a major antioxidant following a code of respect for the • sterols, mainly cholesterol, which is environment, with true industrial scale well-known for its role in maintaining implemented to satisfy the real needs the structure and good condition of of cosmetics manufacturers, which may the skin. expand across borders. Furthermore, a renewable approach should avoid Maintain tone and texture tampering with the ecosystem or As a powerful antioxidant and antialtering natural biodiversity. wrinkle active ingredient, Marine

30

and nutrients

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

Natura-Tec’s Marine BlueVital C is made up of a complex structure of elements beneficial to the skin BlueVital C acts to remove free radicals and helps prevent cell structure damage in the dermis layer. Natura-Tec’s research shows that Marine BlueVital C encourages the production of collagen, elastin and dermo-proteins found naturally in the skin. It stimulates the synthesis of collagen, a protein responsible for supporting skin growth and organisation, as well as elastin – helping to maintain skin’s elasticity, tone and texture.

Marine BlueVital C is available in South Africa from AECI Specialty Chemicals, the approved local agent for Natura-Tec. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – Charmaine.DuPreez@aeciworld.com Natura-Tec – www.natura-tec.com

PERSONAL CARE

New remote services from Marchesini

In light of the impact of COVID-19 pandemic and as packaging supply chains are deemed essential by the Italian and South African governments, the Marchesini Group has implemented a series of procedures to ensure business continuity. These measures also protect the health of its employees and associates.

A Marchesini expert technician provides assistance in real time

assistance services while striving to ensure

in progress or have a test beginning

compliance with the measures adopted

shortly can access Marchesini’s

by each country in which it operates.

stream by connecting with its in house technicians.

Services available to customers

• Live assistance – Customers in need of

A total of 87% of the group’s products

technical assistance can contact the

are exported around the world. Over

customer care team, who will provide

the years, it has built an extensive sales

the necessary IT tools, including an

network, allowing Marchesini to sell its

App to download to their smartphone.

archesini believes it’s the

machines in 116 countries. The group

These tools allow expert technicians to

company’s moral duty to

has a strong presence in 68 countries,

stand by its customers,

with 14 of its subsidiary offices and a

so that they can provide

network of 35 agencies, including

teleservice software installed on their

consumers with the medicines and

MGSA Projects in South Africa, which

systems, customers can set up the

personal care products they require.

reflect Marchesini’s desire to be close

operator panel remotely via a secure

to its customers.

connection, allowing the group’s

M

Since mid-April, the group has been working within the current restrictions to

To offer the best possible support in

continue with production and to respond

the current situation, the group has

to the numerous requests received

implemented a series of initiatives which

for assistance. This is done while first

prevent any health risks. Specifically, it

prioritising the health of its employees.

has upgraded the following services:

On a global scale, Marchesini is also continuing to provide the usual technical

• Fat in streaming – Customers who are unable to visit its offices to run a test

provide solutions in real time.

• Teleservice assistance – With the

specialists to work on a machine from their own office. •

Marchesini Group – www.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

31

PERSONAL CARE

COVID-19, clean beauty and indie solutions

DID YOU KNOW?

Clean beauty has gained a lot of momentum in the last few years. With elements such as indie beauty, naturals and transparency coming together, this beauty movement is many things to many consumers.

T

he values of safety and

pressure to convey the safety, longevity

transparency at the core of

and efficacy of their products.

An indie beauty brand is simply an independently owned business.

It does not receive any corporately backed funding and its start-up funds are directly from the owner. Indie beauty brands are known for their ‘heart and soul’ which consumers can see in the products they buy.

These brands also have a passion for quality, sustainability and community. Source: www.whiteandelm.com

clean beauty – developing, safe,

Natural and sustainable

Founded by Mary Berry in 2008, as Texas

consumers and being transparent about

Symrise has been developing fragrance and

Beauty Labs, the company was recently

ingredients and processes.

ingredient solutions to advance the olfactive

acquired by Phlur - a leading fully

experience of brands for consumers

transparent and sustainable fragrance

influenced human existence, it will also

in increasingly safe, sustainable and

company – and rebranded as Goodkind

influence clean beauty. Consumers most

transparent ways.

Co – powered by Symrise.

non-toxic beauty products for

In the same way COVID-19 has

likely will have a heightened need to scrutinise ingredient safety and evaluate the risk of possible product contamination.

The global pandemic is a catalyst in this

The multifaceted naturals and

new products with natural and organic

incorporating naturals from Madagascar,

ingredients, offering low minimums for

passionately created fragrances with

customisable solutions and scalable

certifications from independent, respectable

processes. It has been working closely

organisations such as COSMOS, green

with Symrise’s fragrance and cosmetics

technology (renewables) and sensitive skin

ingredients team to develop interesting

solutions are a few examples.

beauty care products for the indie market

regard, with

with a focus on clean beauty. •

brands

Innovative and accessible

facing

More recently, Symrise invested in a

increased

Goodkind Co specialises in formulating

sustainability programme within Symrise,

clean beauty company based in the US.

Symrise – www.symrise.com

www.o6southafrica.com

We've got a sense for Fragrance and Taste

And a o6th sense for what your customers want for both.

We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like.

011 234 8399 EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com

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| MAY 2020 | P C Review

SMALL PACK DIVISION

FACILITIES MANAGEMENT & DESIGN

Guarantee plant safety with specialist disinfection services Have you considered a plan of action should there be a suspected or confirmed COVID-19 case on your premises? Whether your business falls into the essential services category and has been operational during lockdown, or you are eagerly waiting to reopen according the various levels of lockdown, you need to ensure your premises and facility are safe and contamination-free for your employees.

3. Precautionary disinfection service: for customers that want a once-off precautionary clean to sanitise their premises and which is carried out only on premises where there are no confirmed or suspected cases of COVID-19 on site.

4. Contingency survey: for customers that want to be able to react quickly should a case of COVID-19 infection occur – by planning in advance how a specialist disinfection service would be carried out on their premises.

More information on each level of service can be found on the Rentokil Initial website, by clicking on this link: www.initial.co.za/ Rentokil Initial’s specialist disinfection technicians are equipped with the most up to date and effective personal protective and respiratory protective equipment

R

entokil Initial has been hard at work

These include viruses, bacteria, yeasts

over the last few weeks to formulate

and fungi, reducing the risk of illness and

a central response to customers’

cross-contamination.

needs for various levels of

disinfection services. Specialist disinfection has already been tested in Asia and

ULV fogging is the use of extremely

DID YOU KNOW?

small droplets of a disinfectant, dispersed through a fogger,

to settle on inaccessible Rentokil has been delivering Europe and is now being areas. This enables the pest control services to commercial and residential rolled out in South Africa treatment of large areas customers for over 90 years, operating in over 80 countries to meet the needs of in a short space of time. worldwide. There is nothing more local customers.

The company’s important at Rentokil Initial than ensuring that ‘everyone goes Rentokil Initial South disinfection service is home safe’ at the end of their working day – its colleagues, Africa is proud to have tiered into four distinct their families and its customers rely on this been given the go-ahead categories, ensuring Rentokil commitment. by its global head office Initial is able to best respond to to offer specialist disinfection services. This means it is now able to safely

customers’ specific needs.

1. High-level specialist disinfection

treat high-risk premises, where there are

service: for those customers that need

confirmed or suspected cases of COVID-19.

a highly specialised service because

“We have already done disinfection

they’ve had a suspected or confirmed

treatments at the Joburg Market,” says

case or cases of COVID-19 infection on

Nathalie Leblond, category manager for

their premises within the last 72 hours.

Rentokil Initial. “We’ve also treated the JHB

2. Intermediate level specialist

Community Emergency Response Team’s

disinfection services: for customers

vehicles (CERT) and the EMS call centre in

whose premises have been closed for

JHB, to name but a few.”

more than 72 hours due to suspected or confirmed cases of COVID-19 infection,

What to expect?

and which reflects government’s

Rentokil Initial’s specialist disinfection

guidance that the amount of infectious

service is an ultra-low volume (ULV) fogging

virus on any contaminated surface is

treatment that quickly and effectively

likely to have significantly decreased

eliminates disease causing pathogens.

after 72 hours.

specialist-disinfection-services

Trained to ensure health and safety “Health and safety will always be our first priority – now, more than ever, there can be absolutely no compromise on this. This is why our technicians are equipped with the most up to date and effective personal protective and respiratory protective equipment. They have also all been extensively trained on the safe and effective use of the equipment and chemicals required to undertake this service,” adds Leblond.

Rentokil Initial uses a broad-spectrum disinfectant, which is safe to use on all surfaces, including food contact surfaces, and which has been proven effective against a number of major disease-causing organisms including E.Coli, Salmonella, Streptococcus and Staphylococcus.

Rentokil Initial customers can rest assured that the specialist disinfection service they receive from their local Rentokil Initial technician has been rigorously tested to meet stringent global safety standards and strict standard operating procedures. The company’s call centre agents are working safely from home and are available to assist customers with quotations and disinfection service bookings. •

Rentokil Initial – www.initial.co.za

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

33

FACILITIES MANAGEMENT & DESIGN

Design your facility with quality in mind In line with the principles of GMP, adequate consideration of facility design is key to enabling facility management. Dershana Valla of the CTFA expands on the design principles included in regulatory guidelines relevant to South Africa, to ensure quality and consistency in cosmetics manufacturing.

C

onsumers and regulators

operating in South Africa. This standard

is established, the design layout can

alike demand quality

provides, amongst other aspects, a

be planned.

cosmetic products that

good guideline to the physical design

promise innovation, efficacy

aspects of premises which facilitates

Hygiene and sanitation

and safety. There are many factors

the management of such facilities as a

It is imperative that the material used

that influence these attributes, yet few

defined and uniform practice.

for floors, walls, ceilings and windows

consider the factors behind the scenes, which are paramount to ensure product performance, safety and brand loyalty.

Today we see and hear about world-

Materials and area management

in the production area are designed and constructed for ease of cleaning, sanitisation and to allow these to be kept

Prior to the design of a manufacturing

clean and in good repair. The surfaces

class production facilities, which house

facility, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imperative to consider the

should be smooth and resistant to

state-of-the-art and technologically

location and construction material that

potentially corrosive and harsh cleaning

advanced systems and ergonomic

will be used. These materials must be able

and sanitising agents. Windows should

designs, but these are only as good as

to be efficiently cleaned, sanitised and

be non-opening and if they are required

the premise of the principles that have

maintained while ensuring the protection

to be opened for ventilation reasons,

been consulted and implemented during

of finished products. There should also

they should be adequately screened to

the design stage. The principles of good

be clear separation of the various

prevent foreign material and pests from

manufacturing practices, or GMP, are a

activities that make up the elements of

entering the facility. Adequate lighting

good example.

the production process, taking place in

is important to enable operations within

designated areas.

the facility. However, lighting should be

The South African Bureau of Standards (SABS) has adopted the international

Sufficient space and separation of

standard ISO 22716:2007 first edition,

spaces is key to follow the principles of

SANS 22716:2017 Cosmetics â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Good

GMP. These areas include a receiving

Manufacturing Practices (GMP) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Guideline

area, storage areas for raw materials and

be suspended from or supported by

on Good Manufacturing Practices.

packaging materials, sampling areas,

brackets to allow thorough cleaning.

Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance

production areas, an area for quality

Drains must be kept clean and should

designed and installed to contain debris from potential breakages.

Overhead pipework and ducts should

CTFA continues to promote the need for cosmetics manufacturing facilities to follow the principles of the GMP standard SANS 22716:2011

be designed to prevent backflow. In raw

Association of South Africa (CTFA) has

control testing, storage areas for bulk

system works by ensuring simultaneous

promoted this standard as best practice

and finished goods, a quarantine area,

opening and closing of interleading

within the self-regulated environment.

washing area, an equipment holding area,

doors, so that the doors are never open

The intent of the Department of

and washing and toilet facilities etc. These

at the same time. This will prevent pests

Health (DoH) to reform the industry by

are dependent on the product being

and other contaminants from entering the

publishing draft Regulations relating to

manufactured and the complexity of the

storage area.

Labelling, Advertising and Composition

processing and supply chain process.

of Cosmetics, R. 1469, 22 December

Once the space is defined, the design

material and packaging receiving areas where the opening and closing of doors is inherent to the activity and process, a dual-door system is recommended. This

Equipment design and cleaning

2017, confirmed the relevance and has

must consider the flow of processes and

Included in the design elements of a

mandated the principles of this standard

personnel through the facility, so that

manufacturing facility is the aspect of

for cosmetic manufacturing facilities

errors are prevented. Once this

equipment design, especially where

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| MAY 2020 | P C Review

FACILITIES MANAGEMENT & DESIGN

A quality management system can also be adopted … to assist in producing quality and safe products for consumer use

processing equipment is planned to be

Aspects of quality control

fixed. The GMP guidelines are applicable

A key part of any production process is

also be adopted to further enhance the

both to moveable and automated

quality control. The facility design should

management of the various production

equipment. This must be made from

allow for a separate location for a quality

and testing processes and to assist in

stainless steel for ease of cleaning and

control laboratory. This laboratory should

producing quality and safe products for

sanitising. The design of the equipment

be designed adequately to handle the

consumer use.

should also facilitate ease of drainage of

testing and analysis required for the

product and cleaning and sanitising.

types of product being manufactured.

CTFA continues to promote the need for

Where equipment is installed, it is

A quality management system can

Within the self-regulated framework,

The design should also ensure personnel

cosmetics manufacturing facilities to

important that considerations of access

safety. Furthermore, the location of the

follow the principles of the GMP standard

around the equipment is made for

laboratory and personnel access to

SANS 22716:2011 by providing access

cleaning and maintenance. Equipment

the production facility is an important

to the standard to its members via the

design should also accommodate

consideration to prevent contamination.

CTFA’s website. The association also offers

the need for identification, which is

As such, a designated washing/gowning

in-depth training on the various principles

imperative for adherence to GMP

facility should be placed prior to the

so that industry members are successfully

principles during the production process.

entry of the production facility. Similarly,

enabled to implement the programme

For processes that require the use of

the location of washing, changing and

within their individual facilities. For more

transfer hoses, a hanging facility should

toilet facilities for production staff must be

information on GMP and related training

be designed and installed so that these

designed in a manner to accommodate

from the CTFA, please send an email to

can be hung to be kept dry and free from

flow that will prevent contamination from

info@ctfa.co.za. •

dust and contamination when not in use.

entering the production area, which is

Facility design should also include the installation of an effective water

considered a high-risk area.

Production and laboratory waste

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Dershana Valla is the head

treatment system. A defined and suitable

should be stored and disposed of in a

location is required, depending on the

responsible manner and a designated

affairs at the CTFA. She holds

size and complexity of the purification

storage area is required for this with

a BSc Hons in microbiology

system. The space required must be

controlled access.

from the University of the

of policy and regulatory

Witwatersrand and has

discussed with the supplier and installer, so that it can be included in the design

SOPs and quality management

plan. The design should also include

Once the design covers all aspects of the

a storage tank, which is continuously

processes involved in the manufacturing

recirculating water, and an efficient

of the product/s, the management of

supply system to designated processing

the facility will involve the institution of

rooms in the production area. The

standard operating procedures and the

location of this system should be in close

training and access control of personnel to

proximity to the production area.

various areas within the facility.

completed Coschem’s training in cosmetic science. Valla has more than 20 years’ experience in the pharma, cosmetics and food industries, with specific focus on product development, quality control, quality assurance and technical aspects and regulatory affairs.

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

35

ANTI-AGEING

Depolluphane EpiPlus – triple action to pollution-proof skin

Developed by Mibelle Biochemistry, Depolluphane EpiPlus is an innovative active ingredient that protects skin from urban pollution. It not only provides protection from environmental aggressors but also safeguards skin against the long-term epigenetic changes caused by pollution.

As a result, multi-level protection is needed to shield the skin from unwanted exposure to pollutants,

T

pollutants as well as intrinsic reactive molecules.

An artichoke extract was chosen

to detoxify skin by neutralising

for its capabilities to protect skin cells

dangerous chemicals that manage

from epigenetic changes caused by

he contribution of air

to enter the epidermis and to prevent

pollution. To produce Depolluphane

pollution is a major area of

long-term epigenetic changes

EpiPlus, the organic cress sprout and

concern when it comes to

caused by pollution.

the artichoke extract are sprayed on

skin ageing. Particulate

a carrier that is based on a mixture

matter (PM) – particles sized between 0.1μm and 10μm – contains toxic compounds such as heavy metals and allergens and can penetrate the pores.

In combination with exposure to UV light, PM causes oxidisation within the

DID YOU KNOW?

A powerful combination Depolluphane EpiPlus [INCI: (Lepidium

Even when smog isn’t sativum sprout glaringly visible, the skin is exposed to as many as 224 extract (and) chemicals that can damage it.

Cynara Scolymus This is why it needs a second (Artichoke) line of defence, to fortify the natural skin barrier in order Leaf Extract to combat pollution (and) Pullulan particles. Source: (and) Sodium www.byrdie.com

skin, which leads to the formation of reactive oxygen

Carboxymethyl Betaglucan (and)

of different polysaccharides. This smart polysaccharide complex performs various functions on the skin. Its film-forming capability shields the skin from unwanted exposure to pollutants, while the biochemical activity enhances the skin’s immune function and helps to strengthen the skin barrier.

Tested and proven effective In vitro studies demonstrated that cress sprout extract is indeed able

species, inflammation and the loss

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (and)

to activate the expression of detox

of collagen (see Figure 1). The result

Maltodextrin (and) Aqua / Water)]

enzymes in skin cells and reduces the

is irritated, uneven skin that will age

contains a purified extract of garden

formation of protein carbonylation

more rapidly.

cress sprouts, which includes

caused by particulate matter (data

sulforaphane, a well-known activator

not shown). The artichoke was shown

that there are added dangers –

of the detoxification system of the

to prevent long-term epigenetic

continuous exposure to air pollution

cell. It enhances the resistance of

changes caused by urban pollution.

causes epigenetic changes in our

skin cells against environmental

Recent research has shown

cells that can persist long term even after harmful exposure desists.

Epigenetics can be explained as being a structure above the genome

For the first time, Mibelle Biochemistry could show a

Figure 1: Different pollutants attack our skin on a daily basis.

Exposure to UV exacerbates the harmful effect of pollution on skin, leading to skin damage, inflammatory reactions and skin ageing

change in histone modifications in keratinocytes caused by long-term exposure to different

(epigenetics = ‘on top of genetics’),

types of pollution. These histone

which regulates gene expression

modification changes were highly

without changing the DNA code.

reduced when the artichoke

DNA, which makes each individual

extract was present, similar to the

unique, holds the instructions for

modification levels of control cells

building all of the parts of the body and

that had not come into contact

is wrapped around proteins known as

with urban dust. Figure 3 depicts

histones. Epigenetic regulation works

two examples of the histone

by covering DNA and histones with

modifications, namely Histone 3

chemical tags (see Figure 2). These

lysine 27 dimethylation (H3K27me2)

marks, which for example include

and Histone 3 lysine 4 dimethylation

histone methylation, acetylation and

(H3K4me2). However, there were

phosphorylation, make some genes

more than 10 other such histone

either readable or illegible without

modification changes that were

changing the DNA sequence.

caused by urban dust which

36

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

ANTI-AGEING Figure 2: Our DNA is wrapped around proteins called histones. These histones can be chemically modified to epigenetically control gene expression, i.e. the genes are switched on or off

were all less pronounced when the artichoke extract was present. This demonstrates the protective effect

Figure 4: The smart polysaccharide complex prevents microparticle adhesion and facilitates their removal from the skin

Figure 3: Long-term exposure to urban dust changes the epigenetic histone modification signature of keratinocytes. Treatment with 0.03% artichoke extract prevented these epigenetic changes

This data shows that Depolluphane EpiPlus ensures complete protection

of Depolluphane EpiPlus on skin cells

from pollution – immediately and in

against the long-term epigenetic

the short and long term.

changes caused by air pollution.

In a placebo-controlled clinical

Depolluphane EpiPlus is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker,

study, the polysaccharide complex

the approved South African agent for

prevented the adhesion of

Mibelle Biochemistry. •

microparticles mimicking particulate matter and promoted a significantly more efficient removal of these microparticles (see Figure 4).

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – www.mibellebiochemistry.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

37

ANTI-AGEING

Design with a purpose for Generation Z Skin care products intended for use by Generation Z need to meet all the requirements of these consumers. Harald van der Hoeven of CLR Berlin highlights the uniqueness of this generation and what it means for beauty brands.

Skin care products should tick all the boxes of importance to Generation Z and not only efficacy hard to find in the cosmetics industry and it’s even more of a challenge to achieve from Generation Z. While the initial sale of a product might be easy, it can be extremely difficult to secure repeat purchases, which will only be made when a product works for a centennial – and repeat purchases are needed for a product or

A

brand to be successful. n interesting and important

beliefs. Their skepticism towards ‘big

demographic, Generation

industry’ is likely to be a crucial factor

An inclusive approach

Z behaves rather differently

in the boom of indie beauty brands.

Skin care products should tick all the boxes

from older generations.

These small and independent brands

of importance to Generation Z and not only

These teens and tweens are described

have a strong message and are able

efficacy. These are safety, naturalness, clean

as activists with strong opinions and high

to communicate with Gen Zers in a way

beauty, independence of big industry and

demands. They are extremely engaged

they appreciate.

marketing in a language they appreciate.

with the environment and they experience

Generation Z is also interested in the

If you’re looking for ingredients that cater to

high rates of anxiety and depression,

safety and naturalness of skin care

this generation, CLR Berlin has developed

seemingly higher than other generations.

products. These individuals are extremely

CutiBiome CLR (INCI: Octyldodecanol,

A potentially important reason for this is

vocal about cosmetics ingredients which

Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf

that the cultural stigma, which may have

they deem unsafe. You can see this on

Oil, Piper Nigrum Fruit Extract, Magnolia

kept earlier generations from openly

the internet, which is inundated with the

Officinalis Bark Extract), which is based on a

discussing and seeking help for mental

opinions of young consumers.

synergistic mix of extracts of black pepper,

health challenges, appears to be much

manuka and magnolia. CutiBiome CLR was

less of an issue for centennials. This is why

Get repeat purchases

developed to cater to all the needs of the

these individuals are much more willing to

Efficacy is another important concern of

Generation Z consumer and is available in

talk openly about their problems.

the Generation Z consumer, who uses a

South Africa from IMCD.

Unlike older generations, Gen Zers have

skin care product for a specific purpose. As

CutiBiome CLR reduces the film-forming

literally grown up with the internet and

Gen Zers are young, many of them suffer

activity and significantly inhibits the growth

smartphones. They are the ‘iGeneration’

from skin problems related to hormonal

of virulent phylotypes of Cutibacterium

and true ‘digital natives’. Social media is

changes. These changes start in early

acnes. It’s been proven to reduce the

their sphere and the fear of missing out,

puberty and can last into their 20s. During

inflammation associated with acne and

or FOMO, a behavioural driver. Gen Zers

this period, sebum production increases

dandruff. In vivo studies and clinical

worry about their appearance and feel

resulting in oiler skin, with the development

evaluations showed sebum, comedones,

constantly judged, because their lives are

of comedones and pimples. Hormonal

pustules and pimples are dramatically

broadly shared online.

changes can also result in oilier hair, which

reduced with the use of CutiBiome CLR

is another concern of younger generations.

in a skin care serum. A scalp and hair

Unique marketing messages

This is evidence that Gen Zers have specific

care tonic formulated with CutiBiome CLR

Although Gen Zers may seem rather

concerns when it comes to skin and hair

showed its ability to outperform piroctone

superficial, they are actually far from it.

care for which they require solutions to

olamine (an ethanolamine salt often used

They are heavily engaged in everything

overcome or prevent their occurrence.

in anti-dandruff shampoos) in reducing

they do – from activism to their concerns

In this context, the Generation Z

about the environment, politics and big

consumer is exposed to many cosmetic

industry. They have high demands, which

products and brands. They buy products

extends to their skin care products. These

online and will easily switch from one

need to fit in with their lifestyles and their

brand to another. Brand loyalty is already

38

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

scalp oiliness, sensitivity and itch. •

CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD SA – www.imcdgroup.com

ANTI-AGEING

The secret to ageless beauty Women over 50 are embracing age with a new mindset – caring less about public perception and more about having renewed energy and being authentic. But this generation of women also goes through menopause, which not only affects them physically but also emotionally. Lipotec Active Ingredients introduces Cellynkage marine ingredient, to address the changes in menopausal skin. By Júlia Comas, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Albert Soley and Raquel Delgado

I

t is during this challenging stage of their

evaluated in two groups of 20 female

lives that women start to experience

volunteers aged between 50 and 65

samples were obtained through

changes in their skin, such as dryness, a

years. The subjects applied on the face

stripping from the uppermost stratum

reduction in skin thickness and elasticity,

either a cream containing 5% Cellynkage

corneum of volunteers. After their

as well as skin roughness1. Menopause

marine ingredient or a placebo, twice

evaluation via microscopy images, the

also results in changes occurring at a

a day for 28 days. The before and after

microrelief structure was found to have

molecular level.

images of a volunteer who applied

improved by 113% when compared to

Connexins (Cx) are transmembrane

the active treatment and of another

the placebo, resulting in a more uniform

proteins that form specific intercellular

volunteer who applied the placebo

channels known as gap junctions. They

treatment were distributed in a survey

mediate the passage of signals between

format to 300 consumers. One group of

performed through skin echography

cells in direct contact and among

150 participants evaluated the visible

measurements. An increase in

epidermal and dermal cells by facilitating

changes to the one volunteer depicted

thickness of 15% (p<0.05) was obtained

the connection with information carriers,

in the images and the other group of

such as exosomes2, 3.

participants evaluated the images of the

With age and increased hormonal

• Microrelief structure whereby skin

and youthful appearance.

• Epidermal thickness evaluations were

after the treatment.

• Collagen density, whereby a

other volunteer. The participants did not

spectrophotometric analyser was used

deficiency, Cx levels are lost, resulting in

know which of the images were taken

to quantify the amount of collagen

incorrect cellular communication that can

before and after the treatments.

in the dermis. Results showed a 2.4%

lead to a loss of tissue efficiency. The main

A visible improvement of the overall

increase in density at the end of the

proteins in the extracellular matrix (ECM)

appearance of the face was observed at

can also experience a decline, leading

the end of the treatment with Cellynkage

active treatment.

to a weakened skin structure and the

marine ingredient, with positive evaluations

accentuation of the main signs of ageing.

by most of the survey participants.

Complexion-improving effect

Improved skin ageing

using immunohistochemistry on

Cellynkage marine ingredient is an

The ability of Cellynkage marine ingredient

reconstructed human epidermis (RHE)

exopolysaccharide. It is obtained using

to support an improved skin-ageing

under menopausal conditions treated with

biotechnology from a microorganism

process was evaluated in a clinical test

0.02mg/mℓ Cellynkage marine ingredient

that inhabits saline environments. The

performed on 20 menopausal women

concentrate, or left untreated4. Separately,

marine ingredient is able to improve direct

aged between 50 and 60 years. They

non-menopausal hormone levels were

intercellular communication as well as

applied a cream with 2% Cellynkage

used to treat another RHE4. Fluorescent

the crosstalk among cells. The complete

marine ingredient on one half of the face

microscopy was used for the visualisation of

intercellular signal exchange allows for

and a placebo cream on the other, twice

the skin models.

the restoration of cell functioning and skin

a day for 56 days.

homeostasis, which are lost with age and

The following parameters were evaluated

increased by 60.6% and 44.0% respectively

particularly during menopause.

before and after the treatment:

(p<0.0001). The resulting levels were found

• Surface smoothness, which was

to be comparable to those under non-

In vitro testing of connexin protein levels The amount of connexins was assessed

The complexion-improving effect of the Cellynkage marine ingredient was

After the active treatment, Cx37 and Cx59

evaluated through digital images,

menopausal conditions.

obtaining a more uniform skin with a Figure 1: Before and after photographs of a volunteer who applied the active cream

7.9% increase (p<0.01) at the end of the treatment.

Epidermal intercellular communication enhancement A scrape loading dye transfer technique

Figure 2: Digital images of a volunteer’s cheek

was used to evaluate the gap junction intercellular communication (GJIC).

Keratinocytes were treated with 0.5mg/mℓ Cellynkage marine ingredient concentrate, 0.5 mM cAMP (positive control), or they were left untreated as a control.

The GJIC activation was calculated

Before

40

After

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

Before

After

by measuring the migration distance of the fluorescent dye. An increase of

ANTI-AGEING Figure 3: Fluorescent images showing connexins in green and cell nuclei in blue

Non-menopausal

Menopausal

Menopausal + Cellynkage marine ingredient concentrate

and paracrine cell communication. In vivo, in mature volunteers, it helped to improve skin thickness, collagen density, microrelief structure and surface smoothness, with a visibly improved overall appearance.

Cx37

Cellynkage marine ingredient is available locally from Savannah Fine Chemicals, the approved South African distributor of Lipotec Active Ingredients. • REFERENCES:

Cx59

1. Wend K, Wend P, Krum S. Tissue-Specific Effects of Loss of Oestrogen during Menopause and Aging. Front Endocrinol (Lausanne). 3:19, 2012.

2. Chavez-Muñoz C, Kilani RT, Ghahary A. Profile of

91% was obtained after the treatment

fibroblasts, the expression of genes involved

exosomes related proteins released by differentiated and

with Cellynkage marine ingredient,

in both the synthesis and degradation of the

undifferentiated human keratinocytes. J Cell Physiol.

indicating an expanded communication

extracellular matrix (ECM) was evaluated.

via gap junctions.

The marine ingredient was found to upregulate genes involved in the synthesis

Effect on epidermal-dermal exchange

of the ECM and downregulate those

Keratinocytes of a 54-year-old were either

shows a preservation of the ECM thanks to

treated with 0.02mg/mℓ Cellynkage marine

the effects of paracrine communication.

responsible for its degradation. Therefore, it

ingredient concentrate or left untreated as a control. After that, 54-year-old fibroblasts

Concluding the improvements

were treated with the supernatants of the

Cellynkage marine ingredient enhanced in

keratinocytes’ cultures. Through RT-PCR on

vitro the levels of Cx for an improved direct

221(1):221-31, 2009. Doi: 10.1002/jcp.21847.

3. Soares AR, et al. Gap junctional protein Cx43 is involved in the communication between extracellular vesicles and mammalian cells. Sci. Rep. 5, 13243; doi: 10.1038/ srep13243, 2015.

4. Remoué N. et al. Development of an in vitro model of menopause using primary human dermal fibroblasts.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 35:546-554, 2013

Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

41

ANTI-AGEING

New natural skin filler concept offers remarkable rejuvenation Cellfie, a new plant-based facial filler concept developed by Chemyunion, is a major advancement in naturally reducing the look of ageing skin caused by lipoatrophy. This natural replacement for invasive skin fillers is available locally from Chemgrit Cosmetics.

T

oday, hyaluronic acid injections make up more than 70% of the global facial filler market,

Figure 1: Clinical trial results show the effect Cellfie has on the perioral, periorbital, smile line and nasolabial wrinkles after 60 days of treatment

relating to more than $3.5bn. The

PROVEN BENEFITS IN 60 DAYS, Cellfie will reduce:

estimated annual growth of the market

• perioral wrinkles by up to 28% in size,

is predicted at around 8% – providing a

30% in length and 9% in depth

significant opportunity for the introduction

• periorbital wrinkles (or crow’s feet) by up

of alternative products.

to 27% in size, 29% in length and 9.5%

Adipogenesis, the activation and

in depth

proliferation of adipose tissue cells, as well

• smile lines by up to 60% in size, 47% in

as the expansion of mature adipocytes,

length and 29% in depth

plays a crucial role in increasing the

• nasolabial lines by up to 23% in size,

volume of skin tissue. By regularly applying

25% in length and 8% in depth.

a pro-adipogenesis product, one can effectively maintain the adipose tissues and prevent, or even remedy, the signs of

It offers exceptional performance

facial ageing.

in topical treatments for the skin. It

Chemyunion’s Cellfie is a non-invasive

incorporates a precise and efficient

alternative to injections and grafting

liposome delivery system, which when

and is said to be just as effective in

tested and compared to the benchmark,

reducing the appearance of facial lines

stimulates five times more adiponectin,

and wrinkles. It can be used to replace

Chemyunion believes there is a significant

which is the main biological marker

invasive forms of facial filling, that often

opportunity in the market for natural

responsible for the regulation of

result in unnatural appearance due to

products capable of producing similar

adipogenesis. Ultimately, Cellfie restores

the injection of fillers into the dermis, an

results to current invasive applications.

cellular memory and results

extremely fibrous skin layer composed

Cellfie works through the synergistic

in a remarkable, natural

of collagen and elastin, that is naturally

association of Thymus vulgaris (thyme)

rejuvenation of the

resistant to this type of procedure.

extract with phosphatides, triglycerides

skin’s appearance. •

and lecithin fatty acids. Improvement

Safe and exceptionally effective

and modification of the facial contour

Considering consumers’ increasing

are among its main benefits, making it

concerns of the safety and discomfort

a definitive alternative to invasive fillers

associated with these skin treatments,

available on the market.

42

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com

ANTI-AGEING

Protect the skin against glycation DC Antiglycagen from Vantage Specialty Chemicals protects collagen and elastin from glycation, to promote younger looking skin. This novel active ingredient is ideal for use in wrinkle reduction skin care products, daily protection creams, diabetic skin treatments and sensitive skin care serums.

G

lycation, sometimes referred

means to protect the skin from

to as the Maillard reaction,

premature ageing. It also shields against

is a process typically

environmental stressors such as UV

associated with ageing

radiation, pollution and chemi¬cal irritants.

and oxidative damage. Certain sugar molecules chemically bond to proteins or lipids without the moderation of an enzyme.

When glycation occurs in the skin, it causes the crosslinking of collagen and elastin resulting in a loss of skin flexibility, elasticity and resilience, causing skin ageing and wrinkles. It also leads

The ingredient is made up of a unique combination of humic acid and verbacoside-rich olive extract. Humic

DID YOU KNOW?

• wrinkle reduction • daily protection • sun care • sensitive skin

acid, a main component of nutrient-rich soil and peat, is generated when plant

The external signs of glycation matter breaks down in appear between the ages of 30 to 35. Dietary intake of sugar and refined the soil. It is responsible carbohydrates can accelerate the for providing water and signs of aging, as it promotes crosslinking of collagen fibers. Cross-linking nutrients to plants. Humic occurs through a process known as glycation. Once established, the acid contains zinc and body is unable to repair these magnesium, which are both crosslinks. Source: www.happi.com

to the production of harmful

Ideal claims and applications:

linked to increased collagen

production that can lead to

substances known as advanced

younger, firmer-looking skin.

glycation end products (AGEs).

Verbascoside is a powerful antioxidant

increase of non-tryp¬tophan fluorescence (excitation at 360nm) using a microplate fluorometer Cytofluor2350 (Millipore), according to Argi¬rovaand Argirov, 2003 with modifications.

The results showed DC Antiglycagen inhibited protein glycation by 39%. This activity is remarkable considering the low concentration range of the active ingredient.

and has been shown to lower DNA

Novel and versatile

cellular ageing. They are highly reactive

damage as well as prevent intracellular

DC Antiglycagen can be used in skin care

free radicals and oxidisers, which advance

reactive oxygen species formation.

and colour cosmetics formulations. It can

AGEs are one of the primary causes of

the glycation process and initiate harmful

be easily added with medium propeller

Firming effect

mixing after phase combination at below

Glycation-derived albumin fluorescence

40°C, during the cooling phase. The ideal

Anti-ageing ingredient

was used to measure the efficacy of DC

pH range for systems formulated with the

DC Antiglycagen (INCI: Water (and)

Antiglycagen against glycation. Each

active ingredient is between 4.0 and 8.0.

Humic Acids (and) Butylene Glycol (and)

reaction mixture contained 10mg/mℓ

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract)

albumin (Sigma) in PBS with 500mM

is recommended for use in anti-ageing

is an anti-ageing ingredient specially

glucose (Sigma G8270) in PBS.

treatment products, where it may contribute

inflammatory and autoimmune responses.

designed to help pro¬tect collagen

The negative control contained

In skin care products, DC Antiglycagen

some colour to the base formulation. This

and elastin against glycation and its

10mg/mℓ albumin without glucose, while

is dependent on use level. According to

damaging by-products. By fighting off

the positive control was made up of

Vantage, it is an extremely well-priced

AGEs, DC Antiglycagen helps restore skin

10mg/mℓ albumin with 500mM glucose

active ingredient, with a a recommended

smoothness and elasticity and helps heal

and 1mM aminoguanidine hydrochloride

use level of 1%. •

dry, damaged skin.

(Sigma 396494).

Rich in trace minerals, phytonutrients

The samples were incubated with the

and natural ultra-powerful antioxidants

reaction mixture for 10 days at 370°C in

– verbascoside and humic acid – DC

an environment with 5% CO2. The protein

Anti¬glycagen is a safe and effective

glycation was detected by measuring the

Vantage Specialty Ingredients – www.vantagegrp.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

43

ANTI-AGEING

Skin care trends to watch Queen Cleopatra famously bathed in sour donkey milk to improve the appearance of her skin. Throughout the ages, cosmetics businesses have used new ingredients and methods to improve their products and stay on top of trends. While sour milk may be out of fashion, other trends are on the rise. Ramya Sriram, digital content manager at Kolabtree, explores some of the biggest trends in skin care.

C

onsumer interest in premium

to help keep their skin calm

brands is propelling an

â&#x20AC;&#x2022; research indicates

increase in the size of the

that CBDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soothing

global skin care market,

properties can help

which is projected to increase by

diminish breakouts

$45bn by 2023. To remain competitive,

and reduce redness.

businesses should pay attention to the

Another reason for

latest trends and adapt their product

its popularity is its

ranges accordingly.

antioxidant properties, linked with reducing

DID YOU KNOW?

ingredients such as vitamin C are unstable and may change if exposed to air.

Cosmetics businesses need a good understanding of the regulatory landscape when launching a CBD-infused product. For example, CBD products must have a tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) level of less than 0.3% to be sold in the US. You will also need a good understanding of CBD extraction and how to formulate it into your product.

Cannabidiol

signs of ageing skin, such as

With preliminary studies looking at the

wrinkles.

The capsules can be made from many materials, such as sugars or synthetic polymers.

Cosmetics companies

are developing new

encapsulation methods, such as the addition of amino acid-based markers that aid attachment, to help

benefits of cannabidiol (CBD) oil in treating conditions like anxiety, pain and

Encapsulation

the active ingredient reach the correct

insomnia, and even assisting with acne

Another skin care trend is micro-

part of the skin. Encapsulation can be

and wrinkles, this active ingredient has

encapsulation, which involves

a complex chemical process, so to tap

gained widespread exposure. CBD is

formulating ingredients into tiny

into this trend, businesses will require

a naturally occurring plant compound

capsules to make sure that the

the skills of a formulation chemist, either

derived from the cannabis plant, which

encased ingredient is protected and

in-house or freelance.

is non-psychoactive and legal to buy.

delivered properly into the skin.

CBD is more richly concentrated in

The skin acts as a physical

Dry versions

cannabidiol than hemp seed oil, which

barrier and can prevent ingredients

While most beauty products have historically

only contains trace amounts.

such as antioxidants and vitamins

taken the form of a cream, lotion or solid,

from being absorbed. The active

brands are now creating dry, just-add-water

properties, which have helped fuel its

ingredient must have a small enough

versions of their formulas, which do not

popularity in the skin care market. For

molecular structure to cross the skin

require preservatives or emulsifiers to the

example, people with acne may use it

barrier effectively. In addition, some

extent of water-based formulations.

CBD oil has anti-inflammatory

44

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

ANTI-AGEING Consumers are also turning to dry

of vegans, which, according to the Vegan

versions of these products because

Society, has increased from 150 000 in

they are practical to carry around, can

2006 to more than 540 000 in 2019.

have a longer life span and they can be

These types of skin care products

customised based on the amount of water

incorporate plant-based and synthetic

they choose to add.

ingredients, while avoiding traditional

Reformulating a product as a powder

animal-derived ingredients such as

may also improve its sustainability ― dry

beeswax and collagen. If you substitute

formulas don’t require emulsifiers and may

key ingredients in your products, you can

require fewer preservatives. The production

make them vegan-friendly, opening them

of dry products may require businesses to

up to a wider group of consumers.

call on the help of a scientist to reformulate

While the industry has changed drastically

the product and ensure its safety.

since the days of Cleopatra and her sour milk, it is still a difficult process to modify

Organic

a skin care product to align with a new

Increasing consumer demand means

consumers about their ethics and

movement in the market. By working with a

that companies are formulating products

ingredients. If you hire a freelance

highly skilled formulation chemist, cosmetics

using organically farmed ingredients.

formulation chemist, you can reformulate

businesses can adapt their products to

Organic products are often marketed as

products to introduce organic and natural

make them appeal to a wider market.

more beneficial for the skin as they do not

ingredients to tap into this trend.

contain pesticides or other harsh chemicals

Do you need help reformulating your cosmetic and skin care products to meet

that may cause adverse effects, such as

Vegan

consumer demand? Visit Kolabtree’s

burning, stinging, redness and irritation.

Skin care products that forgo animal-

website for a consultation with a freelance

derived ingredients are part of the vegan

formulation chemist. •

Organic skin care is gaining momentum within the clean beauty trend, where

lifestyle. By reformulating their products,

an increasing number of brands are

big brands and even smaller companies

promising to be 100% transparent with

are now responding to the rising number

Kolabtree – www.kolabtree.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

45

ANTI-AGEING

Beauty sleep and the microbiome

If you’re looking to harness natural ingredients to promote healthy, hydrated and glowing skin, Millchem’s principals, Ashland and Hallstar, have launched new solutions. These novel skin care actives are based on a balanced microbiome and the longstanding benefits of beauty sleep.

N

ightessence biofunctional

Clean sleep

Unique multifunctional concept

is a natural extract from

The beauty sleep or clean sleep

Biome Oléoactif from Hallstar Beauty

premium true lavender

concept is extremely trendy.

is an exclusive active ingredient,

flowers, developed by

Clean sleep focuses on habits and

which regulates skin microbiota

Ashland using the patented and

behaviours that can improve the

and reinforces skin barrier function,

proprietary plant small

quality of sleep and help one feel

thanks to its unique composition of

RNA technology.

better rested.

innovative active molecules.

This is the first of its kind

“Based on scientific research,

It is increasingly clear that the

biofunctional tailored to optimise

Ashland has defined the

skin’s night-time needs, allowing

biology of the skin at

consumers to awaken with skin re-set

night as ‘noctology’,

for the day ahead. It helps restore skin

which describes

overnight, for a rested, renewed and

the needs of

function. Extrinsic

illuminated look in the morning.

skin through

and intrinsic factors

essential nocturnal

may influence skin

Consumers understand the link

cutaneous microbiota makes important contributions to normal skin immune development and

between sleep and lifestyle factors

processes and

disruptions by inducing

with skin appearance, mental and

molecules for

dysbiosis linked to

physical health.

night repair of daily

“A recent Mintel study reports that

damage,” explains

80% of women in France, Germany,

Joël Mantelin, vice

Italy and Spain all agree that getting

president: marketing and

enough sleep is an important part of looking after their skin,” says Justine Cotton, global marketing manager

the decrease of the microbial diversity notably characterised by a loss of protective bacteria, such as

business development, Ashland. “Our

Staphylococcus epidermidis and

Nightessence biofunctional enhances

an overgrowth of pathogenic or

skin’s naturally occurring nocturnal

opportunistic microorganisms, like

process, dysregulated by hectic

Staphylococcus aureus.

and new business

lifestyles, visible light and sun, and

development, Ashland.

helps skin boost essential night-time

conditions, experts recommend using

molecules such as timezyme

cosmetics that preserve the skin’s

and melatonin.”

microbiota ecosystem.

Nightessence biofunctional is ecoconsciously designed from field to skin. The company’s Lavandula angustifolia premium lavender is grown

The Nightessence biofunctional active ingredient was clinically tested on

To prevent imbalanced skin

A randomised single blind study was performed to evaluate the impact of Biome Oléoactif on cutaneous

sustainably, on the mountain slopes

a group of 36 Asian

microbiota and skin after

in Provence, France, 140km from the

volunteers, who

repeated applications

Ashland biofunctional facility.

worked night shift

for 15 days. The results

or stayed up very

showed Biome Oléoactif

The cultivation and harvesting techniques used by Ashland are

late. After using the

said to respect nature. It is extracted

product for a month,

using green chemistry to offer a

the volunteers showed a

novel type of lavender essence to the

more rested skin with fewer

cosmetics market.

dark circles.

46

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

preserves the bacterial diversity (Shannon index) and the microbiota global composition (Phyla level) of healthy skin.

ANTI-AGEING

Post pre-biotic concept This fermentation-derived active is produced using a wild extremophile microorganism sourced from Deinove’s

SKIN BENEFITS OF NIGHTESSENCE BIOFUNCTIONAL:

collection and extracted using Hallstar Beauty’s patented oleo-eco-extraction

• provides essential nocturnal molecules, such as melatonin, timezyme and nocturnin

process. Deinove is a French biotech

• night repair of daily damage to limit the formation of dark spots

company that uses a disruptive

• night detox and cleansing oxidant species induced by day light or light at night

approach to develop innovative

• mRNA quality control and removal by moonlighting nocturnin

antibiotics and bio-based active

• overnight renewal

ingredients for cosmetics.

• epidermis appears thicker and renewed in a 3D model stressed with visible light.

Biome Oléoactif is a postbiotic extract with a prebiotic effect. It both balances the skin microbiota and maintains the integrity of the epidermal barrier.

Besides its moisturising, restructuring, soothing and emollient properties, Biome Oléoactif can be combined with all types of ingredients to create a holistic system

The rare extremophile bacterium

DID YOU KNOW?

used to produce Biome Oléoactif is collected in a hot spring and

Biome Oléoactif is the first cultivated by Deinove. ingredient that combines a postbiotic origin with a prebiotic effect under 100% Its potential is oil-based composition. Hallstar Beauty enhanced through succeeded to reach the precious lipid part of Anoxybacillus kamchatkensis by the original extracting a rare ramified fatty acid, iso C15. This fatty acid acts in synergy extraction technique with the vegetable lipids from jojoba developed by Oléos – liquid wax and oat oil, providing Biome Oléoactif with a French company that innovative properties.

that promotes healthy, youthful and beautiful skin.

become part of Hallstar Beauty in 2016.

Anne Rossignol-Castera, Hallstar’s general and scientific manager for active naturals, comments: “Biome Oléoactif is our first product leveraging the microscopic world. It provides innovative compounds, which are not found in the rest of the natural world, including the plant world. This is an exciting area which we are glad to enter.” •

Ashland – www.ashland.com Hallstar Beauty – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.com

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

47

ANTI-AGEING

Well-ageing trend inspires new direction for skin care Antioxidant-rich active ingredients are a key in fighting the signs of fatigued skin. Botanichem represents a variety of leading international principals that supply safe and effective active ingredients with proven anti-ageing benefits.

T

he impact of a modern lifestyle

Impressive results

is not only evident in the rise of

In studies conducted on a group of 24

non-communicable diseases

women aged between 35 and 51 years

such as diabetes, obesity and

old, BASF found that Inolixir reproduced

The fruit of the baobab fruit, which is commonly referred to as a ‘super-fruit’

hypertension, but also in the major effect

the same results as a five-day relaxing spa

it has on the condition of our skin. A

treatment. The active ingredient helps to

total of 47% of US consumers agree that

improve microcirculation and strengthen

lifestyle factors play the biggest role in the

the microvascular network for an anti-dark

appearance of skin, while 90% of French

circle effect around the eyes. This occurs

women say that psychological stress

as a result of the micro-stimulation of blood

Active C in response to the increased need

negatively affects their skin.

vessels, in which physical massage has a

for ingredients that provide protection

similar effect. After 28 days of using Inolixir,

against environmental aggressors.

has found that the concept of slowing

a 75% reduction was observed in the

This extract from the pulp of the fruit of

down has become a key consideration for

under-eye area where dark circles occur.

the African baobab tree provides the

Through research BASF Care Creations

many stressed citizens across the globe with consumers increasingly focusing on self-care, health and wellness. In response to these concerns, BASF Care Creations has created Inolixir – a shot of wellbeing for the health of stressed and tired skin.

The study on Inolixir showed a 75% reduction in the lines caused by tension while the eye contours were 63% less wrinkled Inolixir helps to reinforce the skin

The Chaga mushroom grows mushroom mainly on birch trees

Zuplex Botanicals has created Bao-

formulator and consumer with a unique solution for skin affected by harsh weather conditions and blue light pollution.

Bao-Active C supplies a diverse range of minerals and micronutrients to supercharge the regeneration of the epithelial layer.

In African communities, the baobab fruit is commonly referred to as a ‘superfruit’ based on its rich nutritional profile. It

protection system for a more beautiful

contains ascorbic acid, carbohydrates,

and brighter skin, by stimulating the

terpenoids, flavonoids, organic acids, amino

protective proteins HSP70. These protective

acids, phytosterols and minerals. Bao-Active

proteins allow for the repair of damaged

C promotes soft smooth skin by supplying

cells in much the same way as the heat

the skin with essential vitamins and minerals

from a sauna. After 28 days, skin was 63%

and protects the skin from harmful radiation.

more beautiful.

“The rich cocktail of vitamins, amino

The active ingredient also helps

acids, antioxidants and minerals provides

to strengthen the dermo-epidermal

the skin with vital nutrition for maintaining

junction, encouraging a reduction in the

youthful radiance. The high levels of

Botanichem, the local agent that distributes

signs of fatigue, targeting eye contour

vitamin C in baobab fruit provide a

the Active Portfolio of BASF Care Creations,

fine lines by stimulating Collagen IV

natural way to treat and prevent skin

Inolixir is built on the desire for improved

production in the same way as massage

wrinkles associated with photo-ageing,”

wellbeing and addresses dullness, dark

would. The study on Inolixir showed a

comments Brown.

circles and eye contour fine lines.

75% reduction in the lines caused by

According to Robyn Brown of

“The main component of Inolixir is sourced from the Chaga mushroom, which

Botanical material used by Zuplex is

tension while the eye contours were 63%

of high quality, sustainably cultivated

less wrinkled.

or harvested, and fully traceable. All

is commonly found in forests in countries

Zuplex actives are COSMOS approved.

located in the northern hemisphere,

Environmental stress

The supplier also has biotrade and

including Siberia, Scandinavia and

Exposure to pollution and other

bioprospecting permits, covering 80

Canada,” explains Brown. “BASF uses an

environmental factors are also known to

indigenous plant species. •

innovative and environmentally friendly

have a negative effect on the skin. These

extraction process with hot pressurised

factors cause skin to become reactive

water, which allows for optimised

and sensitive, resulting in redness,

extraction of the active compounds.”

dullness and discomfort.

48

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS

Coschem launches virtual events

Due to the national lockdown and the ongoing restriction on group gatherings to slow the spread of the coronavirus, Coschem is hosting virtual events to maintain the vital connection with its members. To date, it has hosted a social Zoom session and a webinar entitled Microbiome of Scalp and Skin.

B

otanichem’s Robyn Brown

of both general health and wellbeing

key trend in the premium skin care

provided the educational support

and skin health has been greatly

category, particularly in moisturiser and

for the Society of Cosmetic

underestimated. According to Brown’s

cleansing products.

Chemists’ (Coschem) webinar on

presentation, the human skin is host

the Microbiome of Scalp and Skin, which

to between 1 million and 1

took place on 30 April.

billion microbes per square

Over the past few years, there

of microbes are affected

microbiome concept. In the context of

by the environment,

the skin, this refers to the eco-system

climate and stress.

comprising the skin and related micro-

skin microbiota provides an

centimetre. These colonies

has been increased interest in the

Brown explained that

organisms living on the skin’s surface

the relationship between

and within the outermost skin layers. The

the microbiome and skin

relevance of these relationships in terms

care is rapidly becoming a

Research has shown that a healthy

DID YOU KNOW?

environment for the skin to thrive and fight unhealthy

pathogens. An imbalance The society’s virtual events echo the theme of in skin microbiota leads to Coschem’s PR committee ageing, sensitivity, dryness for 2020 which is and acne. #StayingConnected.

In the context of the scalp

the result is dandruff, an aged scalp and scalp sensitivity, which ultimately leads to hair thinning and loss, as healthy hair requires a healthy scalp.

Probiotics and prebiotics The key to healthy microbiota maintenance lies in incorporating probiotics into skin care. Probiotics are well-known for their ability to restore intestinal and intimate comfort, build immunity and improve emotional health.

Now skin care formulators are recognising the role of probiotics as a beneficial microorganism for the skin and these microorganisms are finding their way into skin care formulations.

It is believed that probiotics help with anti-ageing and moisturisation. They soothe, protect and can help boost the efficacy of other skin care products. They Attendees, who joined Coschem for the cheerful online cocktails, dressed up and had fun while catching up and discussing their lockdown experiences

also regulate dysbiosis and the pH of the skin, assist with barrier function, improve skin defence and protect the skin.

ZOOM IN WITH COSCHEM Video conferencing has always been a key ingredient in the recipe for success for enterprises, organisations and groups hoping to maintain connections with customers, remote workers and members, for example.

The Zoom video conferencing app, which Coschem is utilising to connect with members, reportedly added more users to date in 2020 than it did in all of 2019, according to Bernstein Research. The research firm said so far this year, Zoom has added 2.22 million monthly active users, compared to its total 1.99 million users in 2019.

Coschem’s Zoom webinars are being provided free of charge to paid-up members. The society kicked off its virtual events programme on 29 April with a cheerful online cocktails afternoon. The next virtual event takes place on 13 May from 15:00 to 15:30, featuring a presentation on Nano legislation by Nicola BarnardMarais of Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. Thereafter, on 20 May, Coschem will host an Innovations & Trends Seminar, which will include a number of 15-minute sessions throughout the day specifically on what’s new and trending in the industry.

Please send an email to bridget@coschem.co.za for more information on these and other virtual events.

Prebiotics are described as food for the skin microbiome and they are thought to slow down the ageing process, reducing signs of fatigue, improving skin barrier function and restoring scalp health.

Probiotics are live bacteria but in terms of cosmetics may also be the contents of the cell or the products of the fermentation using micro-organisms. This is in future likely to be called a postbiotic.

Brown also explained that the use of pro-, post- and prebiotics has been common in the Korean beauty market for a while and is now gaining popularity with skin and hair care brands around the world. •

P C Review | MAY 2020 |

49

Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN

Test your general knowledge in our fun quiz: 1. 'Ahh Bisto' is a phrase best associated with which type of British food sauce?

Anita Raath

2. Which epic fantasy novel is set on the fictional continents of

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3. Joe Biden served as vice president of the United States under

Sales executive

Westeros and Essos? which President?

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Carla Melless Sales executive

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6. In ballet, which ‘A’ is a move where the body is supported on one leg with the other leg extended directly behind the body?

7. How many runs does a batsman score in cricket when the ball crosses the boundary rope without touching the floor?

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9. Stash is a range of perfume by which Sex and The City actress?

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

10. The Chronicles of Narnia is a children's book series written by which author?

+27 (0)71 438 1918 Answers: Gravy, Game of Thrones, Barack Obama, 40cm, Boxing, Arabesque, Six, World Health Organisation, Sarah Jessica Parker, C. S. Lewis

ADVERTISERS INDEX

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50

| MAY 2020 | P C Review

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Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

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plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

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FORMPAK

STABILITY TESTING SERVICES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

STABILITY TESTING SERVICES is a division of Botanichem and offers a well-equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure that your product maintains its intended physical, chemical and microbiological quality. We also assist with formulation of new products and dossier

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

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www.botanichem.co.za

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK