Nov/Dec 2020 Volume 47 | Number 11
47
years www.pharmacos.co.za
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Discover new ways to formulate
PHARMA FOCUS: ASEPTIC PROCESSING
How will COVID-19 accelerate vaccine development?
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
A fresh view on naturals & sustainability
Beauty
innovation re-imagined by
World Premiere
Lasting haircare scent tailor-made for African hair After 3 years of research to determine the adherence of fragrance raw materials on natural & on chemically straightened African hair, Symrise, one of the leading Fragrance houses, has created a new way of developing bespoke lasting haircare fragrances, totally adapted to African hair.
ÂŤThis shows our commitment towards making the scent experience meaningful for consumers, as well as deIivering fragrance performance for African & ethnic hairÂť Fabien Calvet, Global Category Leader at Symrise
To discover more, please contact Symrise / symrise.com
Nov/Dec 2020
Contents
Volume 47 | Number 11 www.pharmacos.co.za
42 Pharma Focus: Aseptic Processing Containment solutions for highly-potent pharmaceuticals X Days virtual shows continue into 2021 How will COVID-19 accelerate vaccine development?
36
48 Association News John Knowlton presents a Coschem webinar on workplace creativity Plastics|SA releases 2019 plastics recycling figures
18 6 News Symrise SA appoints Teresa Orlanov as MD
14 Ingredient & Formulation Innovation
Henry Lamotte Oils appoints Maccallum as its new distributor
Naatium Oleam-Renew redefines the formulators palette
In-cosmetics Global 2021 moved to October
Fight silent inflammation with BASF’s PeptAlde 4.0
11 Product News What’s new in South Africa
12 New Product Competition Read more to enter
40 34 Fragrances & Essential Oils Iberchem explores the rise of natural fragrances Symrise expands into a new category – pet care
14
Düllberg Konzentra takes a fresh view on sustainability
Explore new areas of application with Flavocare
Create your signature fragrance with EthanolSA
Evonik expands its bio-based portfolio of actives A new approach to caring for the scalp microbiome
40 QA, QC & Compliance
Rethinking beauty with a focus on self-care
How to build quality into your cosmetic product
Greentech delivers sustainable innovations
On the cover
Rethink how you formulate with Hogo by Symrise
“We see Hogo by Symrise as a helpful assistant for our customers. It offers valuable benefits and allows them to work faster and more efficiently”
The beauty of natural solubilisers in cosmetics Optimised vegan alternative solutions
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
3
FROM THE EDITOR
Welcome to the innovation issue W hile we are all counting down the days to return to a postCOVID world, it goes without saying that we need to approach the ‘new normal’ with caution. As the pandemic has shown, the world can change quickly, bringing substantial shifts in demand. According to McKinsey & Company, even before the pandemic, beauty brands were under pressure to overhaul their productinnovation pipelines to meet consumers’ needs for inclusivity, transparency, customisation etc. As a result, suppliers of ingredients and raw materials need to offer manufacturers and brand owners added value and support in terms of cost-effective formulation technologies, sustainable solutions and best-in-class proven ingredients. This is a key theme in the November/December edition of P & C Review, which has become known as our innovation issue. Symrise sets the tone with the launch of Hogo by Symrise – an online portal that helps formulators to develop the best possible product protection system for modern cosmetics. Users can easily search for ingredients, efficacy data, a wide range of potential combinations and dosage guidelines of suitable ingredients for preserving cosmetic products. Unichem is also featured this month for its efforts to redefine the formulator’s creative palate with the launch of Naatium Oleam-Renew emollients. These plantbased, naturally-derived emollients are aligned with market demands and perfectly balance form, function and experience in personal care formulations. Another interesting read is Harald van der Hoeven of CLR Berlin’s technical article on a new approach to caring for the scalp microbiome. Van der Hoeven
explores how reducing Staphylococcus and allowing Cutibacterium to thrive presents a sustainable solution for addressing the microbial imbalance of dandruff scalp. Turn to page 14 for more on these articles and other ingredient innovation content. The COVID-19 theme continues into our pharma focus, which looks at aseptic processing. Jim Sanford, Dr Sade Mokuolu and Peter Birch of Watson-Marlow Fluid Technology Group discuss how the biopharmaceutical community is coming together to solve the global challenge of the coronavirus pandemic. Key themes discussed in this article include increased collaboration, single-use technologies, scaling-up and innovative resource reallocation. Turn to page 45 for the full article. In the fragrances and essential oils feature on page 34, we explore the rise of natural fragrances. Naturalness and sustainability have definitely become mainstream in the fragrance industry, which Iberchem says ‘has gone from an era of abstract concepts linked to sensations and escapism to one marked by nature’, with health and environmental wellness having a great impact on new product development. With this challenging year coming to end – it’s only fitting to wish our advertisers and readers well for the festive season. Thank you, from the team and me for your continued support. We hope you have a good holiday, continue to stay safe and enjoy the read!
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
4
EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit CONTRIBUTORS: Harald van der Hoeven, Karen Maier, Dershana Jackison, Tom Myers, Jim Sanford, Dr Sade Mokuolu and Peter Birch, John Knowlton
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
NEWS
With the world’s first carbonneutral rPET, Alpla is helping customers achieve their sustainability goals
Symrise South Africa appoints Teresa Orlanov as MD To continue its focus on customer centricity, product innovation and developing sustainable successes with its customers, Symrise South Africa has appointed Teresa Orlanov as the managing director of the local office. Teresa joined the company on 1 September and succeeds Rudy McLean in his role as MD, after McLean retired at the end of October. Teresa is a chartered accountant by profession and has held various roles in the FMCG industry. At Symrise, she will be managing the sub-Saharan African business operations, which include the flavour, fragrance and cosmetic ingredients divisions. Symrise is a global supplier of fragrances, flavours, food, nutrition and cosmetic ingredients. Clients of the company include manufacturers of perfumes, cosmetics, food and beverages, pharmaceuticals and producers of nutritional supplements and pet food. Teresa comments: “At Symrise what drives us forward is our promise of ‘always inspiring more’. This resonates with me as my style is Teresa Orlanov, one of energy and openness to new Symrise South Africa’s new ideas and challenging of the status quo. managing director I am inspired daily by people who grow and develop others, specifically women who grow and develop each other.”
Alpla unveils the world’s first carbon-neutral rPET Global manufacturer of plastic packaging
contribution to climate protection and
and recycling specialist, the Alpla Group is
highlight the value of used plastics,”
unveiling the world’s first carbon-neutral
says Lässer.
recycled PET.
Alpla has selected specific projects in
Alpla switched its PET recycling team plants in Wöllersdorf, Austria, and
alliance Klimaneutralitätsbündnis 2025
Radomsko, Poland, to a mix of electricity
and the NGO Helioz. A reforestation
from renewable sources in order to
project in Nicaragua is being supported.
produce carbon-neutral rPET (recycled
In China, traditional coal-fired stoves are
polyethylene terephthalate).
being replaced with ovens run on biomass.
“This step has already had a big impact
These not only vastly reduce emissions,
on the carbon footprint of our food-grade
but also prevent the health implications
regranulate – according to the calculations,
caused by harmful exhaust air. In Ethiopia,
emissions are cut by up to 90% compared
5 000 household packages (modern
to virgin material. The feedback from the
stoves, vegetable seeds, seedlings and
market has been very good regarding this
training) are being financed. In regions in
development,” explains Georg Lässer, head
Asia and Africa, Alpla is supporting the
of recycling at Alpla.
organisation Helioz, which provides solar
The company is now offering its customers carbon-neutral rPET based on the purchase of certificates. The
using PET bottles. Based on life cycle assessments, packaging types containing a high
for example, to delivery of the input
proportion of recycled material have
material to the plants, are then offset with
the least impact on the climate. With
carbon certificates.
the world’s first carbon-neutral rPET,
regranulate can make a significant
1
devices that monitor water disinfection
remaining, unavoidable emissions relating,
“The world’s first carbon-neutral
Remancos Advert 177x65 Horizontal copy.pdf
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2020/08/04
Alpla is helping customers achieve their sustainability goals.
09:35
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
NEWS
Henry Lamotte Oils appoints Maccallum as its new distributor Maccallum is proud to have been
HLO prides itself on first-class
appointed the exclusive agent and
proprietary quality control, innovative
distributor in the Southern Africa
product development and has a
region for Henry Lamotte Oils (HLO) of
wide range of international quality
Bremen, Germany.
accreditations as well as a team
HLO is a leading supplier and producer of oils, waxes, seed flour and oleoresins servicing customers in
dedicated to providing comprehensive customer-focussed service. Maccallum believes that this
the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, food
representation adds great value to
processing, animal feed and chemical
its small and focussed range of raw
industries. The company has close
materials for the cosmetics and food
contact with raw material markets,
manufacturing industries. Visit
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as well as its own in-house
maccallum.co.za for more information
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Build exceptionally stable emulsions with Emulium Dolcea MB Gattefossé has extended the limits of its
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Presented in an innovative form of
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a hydrated pellet that can be added to
We hope it will help natural formulators to
the aqueous or oil phase, it facilitates
gain time in their development projects,”
use in the lab and in manufacturing.
says Vincent Hubiche, global applications
Formulations containing Emulium Dolcea
manager at Gattefossé.
MB possess a strong sensory signature
Maccallum is proud to have been appointed exclusive agent and distributor for Henry Lamotte Oils GmbH. Henry Lamotte Oils is a global supplier and producer of high quality fixed oils, butters, waxes, seed flours and marine products.
Emulium Dolcea MB is available in
characterised by extreme softness.
South Africa from Carst & Walker, the
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organically-certified, vegan and readilybiodegradable formulations. Gattefossé was thrilled to see Emulium Dolcea MB win the Bronze Innovation Award in the Functional
Emulium Dolcea MB can be used in organicallycertified, vegan and readilybiodegradable formulations
Ingredients category at in-cosmetics Global Awards 2020. “The composition of Emulium Dolcea MB has been designed to make it easy to
www.maccallum.co.za www.lamotte-oils.de
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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NEWS
Johnson & Johnson looks to Aspen to manufacture investigational COVID-19 vaccine candidate Aspen is pleased to announce that one of its wholly-owned South African subsidiaries, Pharmacare Limited (which trades as Aspen Pharmacare), has entered into a preliminary agreement with Janssen Pharmaceuticals and Janssen Pharmaceutica NV, two of the Janssen Pharmaceutical Companies of Johnson & Johnson, for the technical transfer and proposed commercial manufacture of their COVID-19 vaccine candidate, Ad26.COV2-S. The vaccine candidate is currently undergoing clinical trials. Aspen Pharmacare will perform formulation, filling and secondary packaging of the vaccine for supply to Johnson & Johnson. This agreement is still subject to the successful completion of the relevant technology transfer activities and finalisation of certain commercial manufacturing terms.
Aspen Pharmacare has agreed to provide the necessary capacity required for the manufacture of Johnson & Johnson’s COVID-19 vaccine candidate at its existing sterile facility in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. Aspen has invested in excess of R3 billion in the facility together with the high technology equipment and systems that will be used to manufacture state-of-the-art sterile drugs and vaccines, packaged into vials, ampoules and pre-filled syringes. The production area where it is intended that the vaccine candidates will be manufactured has capacity to produce more than 300 million doses per annum. The facility has accreditation from a range of international regulatory authorities and provides lifesaving medicines to both the domestic and international markets. It was part
of the first flagship investments announced at the president’s inaugural South African Investment conference. Stephen Saad, Aspen group chief executive, comments: “We have invested globally in our sterile capability and are determined to play a role in the manufacture of vaccines to add to our proud track record of making contributions to humanity in times of global pandemics. This has included, inter alia, being a leading global supplier for antiretrovirals for the treatment of HIV/AIDS, multi-drug-resistant-TB products and COVID19-related treatments such as anaesthetics and dexamethasone. We have been selected as a vaccine partner by Johnson & Johnson and this project will receive priority focus. We are particularly pleased to be given the opportunity of providing assistance for patients in need across the world from our South African base.”
L’Oréal R&I wins applied research award at IFSCC Congress 2020 At the 31st International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress 2020 Yokohama, which took place virtually from 21 to 30 October, L’Oréal R&I unveiled its latest advances in skin and hair research. Among the 441 projects selected by the Japanese jury, L’Oréal R&I researchers filled half of the programme defined by the scientific committee, with seven podiums and 34 posters. L’Oréal researchers, hailing from eight countries, including South Africa, France, Japan, Brazil, United States, Singapore, India and China highlighted the excellence of their work and the diversity of their expertise. This year, the IFSCC award for applied research was presented to
C C
Dr Sacha Salameh, L’Oréal advanced research, Aulnay, France for her presentation on a new vascularised reconstructed skin model. After 40 years of research on skin engineering, L’Oréal R&I has reached a new milestone in the development of a skin model that better mimics real human skin. This confirms the global beauty brand’s leadership in the development of alternative methods. This new research tool will allow researchers to better understand the skin, and in particular its interactions with the interior of the body via the bloodstream. “This multidisciplinary project could only be possible thanks to the collaboration of experts with different
backgrounds such as microfluidics and skin engineering, coming from France and Japan,” comments Dr Salameh. The paper entitled A perfusable vascularised full thickness skin model for topical and systemic applications is the work of Dr Salameh, Nicolas Tissot, Kevin Cache, Itaru Suzuki, Paulo André Marinho, Maité Rielland, Julien Demaude, Jérémie Soeur, Shoji Takeuchi, Stéphane Germain and Lionel Breton. “This award recognises years of work to develop new models of reconstructed skin – one of the areas of skin engineering in which our efforts have been recognised for decades,” says Gilles Spenlehauer, L’Oréal advanced research director, Aulnay, France.
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
NEWS
The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) is delighted to welcome the Society of Cosmetic Scientists, Nigeria (NICOS) as its 50th member society. This follows the unanimous approval of an application by NICOS at the IFSCC 2020 Council Meeting held virtually on 20 October. “Please join me in welcoming NICOS to the IFSCC,” says (then) president of the IFSCC, Emanuele Piras. “This is the result of extraordinary work driven mainly by our friend and colleague, Grace Abamba, who has devoted all her energy to making this happen.” Inspired by the rapidly expanding Nigerian cosmetics market, founders Abamba (president, NICOS) and Olusola Ojo (vice president, NICOS) formally registered the society earlier this year. Abamba comments: “NICOS is proud to become the 50th member of the IFSCC. This milestone has been achieved at a turbulent time for
Nigeria, but it is important to celebrate this as we hope for a brighter future. Personal care and beauty are really important to Nigerians and this is reflected in the growing value of the market. With the contributions of many, it is an honour to lead this pioneering effort as we work to support the new burst of creativity and drive in cosmetic science within Nigeria and the diaspora.” NICOS is the third African Society to join IFSCC. The others are the Société Centre et Ouest Africaine de Cosmetologie (SCOAC)/Society of Central and West Africa and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa (Coschem). Piras adds: “I feel extremely proud of being in charge when the newest society comes from Africa. It is a great sign of a positive globalisation for our organisation. I truly hope to meet the members of the Nigerian Society of Cosmetic Chemists next year at the IFSCC Conference in Cancun, Mexico.”
Members of NICOS with Grace Abamba (president) pictured fifth from the left and Olusola Ojo (vice president) third from left
2021 show moved to October Reed Exhibitions has announced new dates for the 2021 event. In-cosmetics Global will now take place in Fira Barcelona, from 5 to 7 October 2021, moving the show from the original April dates. This early announcement will hopefully allow time for the impact of COVID-19 across the world to stabilise and when safe to do so, ensure that the event can continue its critical role in bringing the global industry together again. Roziani Zulkifli, exhibition director at Reed Exhibitions, comments: “After consulting with exhibitors and key stakeholders, we recognise that in order to hold an international event there needs to be more time to allow for the reopening of borders and lifting of travel restrictions. It is clear
that the industry needs to meet in person later in 2021. Large-scale events are subject to ever-changing national and local guidelines and regulations. Our priority is to deliver an engaging and COVID-secure faceto-face event with combined virtual solutions in October.” The importance of in-cosmetics Global cannot be underestimated as the largest global event that brings together cosmetic manufacturers and suppliers of ingredients. Nothing can fully replace face-to-face meetings, whilst seeing and experiencing new cosmetic ingredients. Reed Exhibitions is confident that this decision best supports the industry, and in October the organisers will be ready to regroup and look ahead to the future.
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1. New probiotic with DuoCap technology
The first probiotic in South Africa to utilise DuoCap technology – Probitec – was launched in October by Evexia Pharma. Dualcap technology is said to have revolutionised the ingestible medication and supplement markets worldwide because it dramatically increases the efficacy of these products. Lactobacillus acidophilus , the probiotic strain used by Probitec, is clinically proven to reduce the symptoms caused by the effects of antibiotics, lactose Intolerance, diarrhoea, IBS, candida, allergies and bacterial vaginosis. Probitec capsules are made from natural, vegan plant fibres. They do not have any additives and are translucent with no toxins or colouring. They are sugar free, solvent free, preservative free, gluten free, GMO free, and vegetarian and Halaal friendly. This product can be purchased from www.naturalchoice.co.za/collections/probitec, www.takealot.com and select pharmacies nationwide.
On the Street New products on our radar 1 2
2. Moisturisation matters
SKNLogic cosmeceutical skin care aims to provide a solution that works with skin’s biological processes to achieve visible results. The South African skin care brand adopts a synergistic approach to skin care, using science and nature, offering powerful formulas with optimal concentrations of active ingredients to actively improve skin health and appearance. SKNLogic’s newest offerings include a multi regenerating masque and omega face oil. The multi regenerating masque is formulated with dermal stem cells extracted from seaweed and can be used as an overnight mask to moisturise and care for dry, dehydrated and mature skin. The face oil contains omega 3, 5, 6, 7 and 9 in a lightweight and non-greasy formulation which absorbs quickly and helps restore skin’s barrier function, retaining moisture
3
while keeping out pollutants.
3. Heat protection at its best
The newest label.m product to join the award-winning fashion edition range is the heat protection mist. A favourite among designers and clients alike, this new launch authenticates label.m’s reputation as a first choice for some of the world’s best hairstylists working backstage. Heat protection mist is a multifunctional styling mist, created to dry rapidly, resist humidity and provide hold with natural movement for up to 24 hours. The product is enriched with strengthening pro-vitamin B-5 for a softer, smoother finish. It can be used on damp or dry hair and is ideal for use before heat styling as it offers protection up to 240° Celsius.
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4. Innovative ovarian health supplement Using an inspired blend of ingredients, including a naturally-
occurring sugar that’s part of the vitamin B family, Ovaria is a new ovarian-health nutritional supplement formulated with proven ingredients to address PCOS, without any of the side effects. The ingredients in Ovaria bind to cell receptors, activating the signalling pathways that regulate thyroid hormones and, most importantly, insulin in the body. This means Ovaria helps normalise blood insulin levels, which normalises androgen and improves the symptoms of PCOS. Ovaria is a nutritional supplement sold in a powder form, in two flavours – orange or peach. It contains 4 000mg of Myo-Inositol, the required daily dose clinically proven to be effective in the treatment of PCOS symptoms. Ovaria is available from reputable pharmacies – or simply order it online via Lamelle’s health store – lamelle.co.za/health-store.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise
r o P d u w ct e N Competition
P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.
Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria:
Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.
• Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Rethink how you formulate with Hogo by Symrise Creating award-winning solutions is part of Symrise’s DNA. The latest innovative offering from the company is a cosmetic product protection online platform, Hogo by Symrise, which promises to simplify formulation work for manufacturers and brand owners. In Japanese, hogo means protection.
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hether for face or body care, a lotion or shampoo, Hogo by Symrise includes a comprehensive database that allows formulators worldwide to obtain a list of suitable ingredients for preserving cosmetic products. The platform offers access to potential combinations as well as information about dosage guidelines. Another benefit is that it provides users with efficacy data. Users can easily search for ingredients, efficacy data, a wide range of potential combinations and dosage guidelines, regardless of where they are located. The platform utilises filters to find solutions that fulfil global regulatory requirements. This helps formulators to develop the best possible product protection system for modern cosmetics. “Ingredients that protect cosmetics from microbial growth are essential for consumers, making them extremely important to our customers,” says Yohanna Sander, director, micro
Did you know? Symrise’s cosmetic ingredients portfolio comprises advanced actives, modern product preservation solutions, pioneering protection against sun and environmental aggressors, innovative hair care ingredients, original botanical extracts, highperformance functionals and specialised colour solutions.
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"We see Hogo by Symrise as a helpful assistant for our customers. It offers valuable benefits and allows them to work faster and more efficiently" protection business unit at Symrise cosmetic ingredients division. “Unique in its structure, the new platform offers our partners an opportunity to obtain a list of suitable ingredients for modern product protection. We go one step further with Hogo by Symrise as it offers the suitable dose of the ingredients and efficacy data, which is real added value for our customers.” Hogo by Symrise users are given a password that allows them to login to the platform. Formulators collect the initial information online; thereafter they can consult with their Symrise contact to discuss the results. They can also contact Symrise directly via the platform to ask the sales team questions. “We see Hogo by Symrise as a helpful assistant for our customers. It offers valuable benefits and allows them to work faster and more efficiently,” Sander adds.
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The company developed Hogo by Symrise based on its extensive expertise in modern product protection. Symrise also has an accurate understanding of its customers and their needs. With this knowledge and the results of in-depth analysis of the platforms currently available, Symrise has begun to compile its own data in the new platform.
AWARD-WINNING TECHNOLOGIES As a global leader in the cosmetics industry, over the years Symrise has received many awards for its innovation and expertise. Despite the challenges brought about by COVID-19, 2020 has been a significant year for the company in terms of awards. Symrise took top honour for SymEffect Sun in the in-cosmetics Global Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards in the Functional Ingredients category. SymEffect Sun stood out for its use of natural resources, as well as its efficiency in boosting UV protection and formulation stability. The company also received a PCHi Fountain Award this year. These awards recognise and motivate the cosmetics industry for efforts toward research advancement and technological development. All entries are judged independently against a set of standardised criteria, which includes product ingenuity, scientific and technological innovation and market application prospects.
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
SYMREBOOT-L19
With SymReboot-L19, Symrise researchers have succeeded in maintaining the bacterial structure of a processed probiotic ingredient throughout the manufacturing process, preserving its important benefits for skin. The ingredient takes full effect in creams and lotions where it acts as a booster of skin’s instinctive defences. The benefits of SymReboot-L19 have been tested and substantiated in vivo while an extensive series of scientifically-based in vitro tests have also been performed. This innovation emerged at the crossroads of two pillars of research – one being the development of solutions for sensitive skin while the other is the use of probiotics or probiotic-based ingredients for food, nutritional supplements and cosmetics. During this process, Symrise and Probi utilised their complementary expertise and current scientific findings to create SymReboot-L19, which strengthens the barrier function and soothes sensitive skin.
Symrise was awarded first prize in the skin microbiome category for SymReboot-L19. Earlier this year, three Symrise technologies made it to first place in their respective categories in the renowned BSB Innovation Awards 2020. SymControl Scalp received top honour in
SYMEFFECT SUN
SYMCONTROL SCALP
SYMCONTROL CARE
To remedy oily scalp and hair, Symrise has developed a state-of-the-art ingredient from natural and sustainable resources. SymControl Scalp reduces the production of sebum on the scalp with results visible in just one week. It makes hair healthier and offers protection against damage caused by harmful UV radiation. This natural ingredient is based on renewable microalgae Tetraselmis suecicais and results from blue biotechnology. SymControl Scalp is 99.4% of natural origin, COSMOS Natural-approved, and halal- and kosher-certified. Symrise’s experts have created a new screening tool for the development of innovations such as SymControl Scalp. The ex vivo model with sebaceous gland cultures provides results that can successfully be applied to in vivo applications, allowing the company to expand its expertise in scalp care.
the category ‘scalp, hair, moisture, tan’ for natural product/raw materials; the natural anti-dandruff active ingredient Crinipan PMC Green received the award for most innovative active ingredient for cosmetics in the category ‘scalp, barrier and redness’; and SymEffect Sun received first prize in the functionals category. These awards demonstrate the leading position of Symrise in the development of sustainable ingredients.
With SymControl Care, Symrise offers an active ingredient that regulates sebum production and strengthens the skin barrier. According to Symrise’s internal consumer research, roughly 61% of consumers with oily skin reported that their skin is also sensitive. With this skin type, sebum over-production can frequently lead to skin irritations. To combat these irritations, those affected often turn to harsh products that can actually increase the reaction of the skin’s sensitive outer layer. With SymControl Care, Symrise offers an active ingredient that addresses the needs of consumers with both oily and very sensitive skin. The active ingredient has demonstrated ex vivo and in vivo to significantly reduce sebum overproduction, soothing the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. The result is healthy-looking and balanced skin after just one week.
Symrise also won the top prize for SymControl Care in the effective ingredient category at the Ringier Technology Innovation Awards for the personal care industry. These awards recognise and encourage companies that have introduced new technologies which may result in energy saving or cleaner manufacturing. •
Symrise – www.symrise.com
Cosmetics manufacturers are faced with the challenge of developing modern sunscreen products that are not only highly effective but also meet the increased eco-conscious needs of consumers. And while many consumers want products formulated with responsibly-sourced, sustainable ingredients, the performance, stability and skin feel of eco-friendly alternatives need to be similar to traditional products. This also applies to sun protection products. In response to these needs and using a holistic approach, SymEffect Sun from Symrise combines the advantages of conventional sunscreen products with the increasing sustainability requirements of consumers. Based entirely on renewable raw materials from responsible sources, SymEffect Sun takes a decisive step towards increased sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics.
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INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION/SPONSORED CONTENT
Redefining the formulator’s creative palate with revolutionary molecules The personal care emollient market is mature and defined by legacy technologies such as esters, petroleum-based hydrocarbons and silicones as core chemistries. Changing consumer behaviour and the regulatory landscape have forced some innovation, but very little directional change has occurred over the last 40 years. Stemming from a groundbreaking renewable emollient technology, Naatium Oleam-Renew emollients are a complete departure from legacy chemistries. These plant-based, naturallyderived emollients are aligned with consumer demands and perfectly balance form, function and experience.
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he personal care and beauty industry has seen a seismic shift towards clean beauty, where sustainability, naturalness, simplicity and transparency in formulation are key. An increasingly aware and informed consumer is challenging traditional formulating by demanding ‘less-is-more’ beauty formulas, which do not compromise on results. Key requirements include fewer ingredients as well as transparency in sourcing, with maximum benefits and optimal results. This puts formulators under pressure to continuously redefine their products and innovate; whatever those chosen few ingredients are, they need to be the most effective in delivering the required results, while delivering the sensorial efficacy expected of their brand.
INNOVATIVE HIGH-PERFORMANCE EMOLLIENTS Supporting socially-responsible chemistry, Naatium Oleam-Renew emollients are pure, non-polar molecules that are biodegradable, 100% bio-based and score >0.995 on the ISO 16128 naturally derived Index. In collaboration with an international technology partner, Unichem has developed a unique platform to leverage a ground-breaking renewable base oil technology and integrate it into personal care applications. These are ultra-high-purity natural emollients that have been exclusively produced from sustainably sourced plant-based
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• Fast abso • Excellen • Non grea • Light & d • Short pla • Soft & si • Cashmere, cushion feel • No oily residue • Good spreadablity • Deep moisturising for intense hydration • Long playtime
• Rich skin feel with nourishing effect • Luxurious texture • Easy spreadability • Long playtime
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION/SPONSORED CONTENT
feedstocks using an advanced technology platform. The result is a unique range of three premium high-performance emollients with luxurious aesthetics. NO-UV-R, NO-Baby-R and NO-Nourish-R are designed to offer excellent all-round moisturising, hydrating, conditioning and soothing benefits as well as a wide range of feel characteristics that transcend traditional functional and sensory properties. Developed with the global market in mind, Naatium Oleam-Renew drastically narrows down the emollient offering to three simple products with which the formulator can play. The collection covers a full range of viscosity grades that will easily integrate into existing formulations, allowing the formulator to select a specific sensorial requirement based on the application. Formulators are also assured peace of mind in terms of ease of use, repeatability and consistency in final product compositions. Naatium Oleam-Renew is characterised by its multiple functionalities and the sensorial and efficacy properties commonly associated with top-tier products.
"Naatium OleamRenew drastically narrows down the emollient offering to three simple products with which the formulator can play"
SIMPLE, SENSORIAL AND SUSTAINABLE
The simple, three-component portfolio provides the formulator with completely customisable and unparalleled sensory profiles ideally suited for everyday hair, face and body products. In short, the options for innovative product development and cuttingedge marketing concepts are endless. NO-Baby-R and NO-Nourish-R redefine a formulator’s creative palate, empowering them to design products with maximum innovation, creativity and customisation in mind. They also cover the full spectrum of emollient needs, speaking to the increasing need for simplicity in a formulation, while delivering desired sensory profiles and transparency. Formulators can become true innovators, without adding complexity or cost to their innovation platforms and resources. The NO-R molecules are pure, as well as oxidatively, hydrolytically and thermally stable. They offer a range of solubility, film forming, spreadability, and penetration benefits which cover the full functional map and sensorial spectrum (as referenced in Figure 1: The Naatium Oleam-Renew sensorial wheel). The range is uniquely positioned to provide a platform to develop high performance environmentally responsible formulations and has been orbing developed in response to the performance, differentiation, value and nt spreadability sustainability requirements of a global demographic. asy What’s key with Naatium Oleam-Renew is simplicity – brands dry aytime can now have universal appeal and stay relevant while increasing ilky feel the natural or plant-based content in their formulations without compromising on form, function or consumer experience. •
• Non greasy • Good/excellent spreadability • Medium playtime • Light & smooth finish • Silky afterfeel
CONTACT DETAILS Email: salesjhb@unichem.co.za Tel: 011 202 0400 Web: www.unichem.co.za
• Delicate, smooth & velvety feel • Medium spreadability • Fast absorbing • No oily residue
Figure 1: The Naatium OleamRenew sensorial wheel
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INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Protect skin and hair against silent inflammation
BASF has used artificial intelligence to discover peptides capable of preventing the effects of silent inflammation. The result is a a new naturally derived active ingredient, PeptAlde 4.0, which prevents sensitivity of the skin and scalp, as well as dryness or a lack of skin firmness.
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eptAIde 4.0 offers a safe and nature-based remedy for hair and skin damage caused by silent inflammation. To develop this plant-based product, BASF’s researchers used the power of artificial intelligence to screen numerous peptides – short chains of amino-acids linked by peptide bonds – for their ability to help prevent the release of inflammatory mediators such as TNFα. With the help of a controlled enzymatic hydrolysis process, these peptides were then unlocked from organic rice proteins (Oryza sativa). The active ingredient from BASF is scientifically proven to prevent dry skin, discomfort and loss of firmness, while soothing a sensitive scalp that is prone to dandruff.
DRIVING THE NEW INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION With PeptAIde 4.0, BASF has launched an innovative cosmetic ingredient that is clinically proven to counteract the effects of silent inflammation – keeping skin and hair healthy. It is characterised by four multifunctional plant-based peptides and consists of between 12 and 17 amino acids. The discovery of these peptides was made possible by artificial intelligence. This cutting-edge digital technology is accelerating the advances of modern research by exploring huge volumes of data to speed up the identification of hidden connections and to increase the accuracy thereof when compared to traditional methods. Using in-silico predictions and a
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"The discovery of these peptides was made possible by artificial intelligence" machine learning platform, BASF evaluated trillions of data entries to identify the plantbased peptides with the highest potential positive impact on silent inflammation.
CLINICALLY PROVEN BENEFITS FOR SKIN AND SCALP During clinical studies, the positive effects of PeptAlde 4.0 were demonstrated on skin and hair. For the skin care study, a group of female subjects with dry, itchy or uncomfortable skin on their legs, applied a leave-on body lotion formulated with PeptAlde 4.0 twice daily for 28 days. Results showed that moisturisation increased by 33% after one week. After one month, 92% of the participants stated that their skin felt soothed, smooth and nourished. In another study, female subjects applied a leave-on body lotion with the active ingredient to their belly twice daily for 28 days. Skin firmness increased by 27% after two weeks. In addition, 79% of participants stated that their skin was more supple and 82% reported increased comfort after four weeks. In clinical tests for the hair and scalp, male and female participants with sensitive or
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Did you know? Scientists have proven that an unhealthy lifestyle disturbs one of the body’s most important defence systems – inflammation. While acute inflammation helps the body to heal, silent inflammation fights healthy cells, causing disease and accelerates the body’s degeneration. The effects of this process are almost invisible in young individuals, yet it gradually creates superficial and deep damage to the hair and skin. Watch this video to learn more about silent inflammation: https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=7vJSWL37N78.
itchy scalps used a shampoo formulation with PeptAlde 4.0 three times a week for three weeks. The results showed a visible reduction in scalp redness of 9% while the pH level of the scalp was 0.4 units lower, which is equivalent to the difference between a sensitive and non-sensitive scalp. The shampoo was mild to the scalp, showing no disturbance of the level of sebum. PeptAIde 4.0 is a new generation network of plant-based anti-silentinflammation peptides, which provide an answer to consumers’ needs for safe skin repair products backed by proven science. • The active ingredient and formulation guidance are available locally from Botanichem. BASF – www.care-chemicals.basf.com Botanichem - www.botanichem.co.za
A bead for every need
Orkila South Africa, now part of Azelis, is excited to announce the start of a distribution agreement with Cirebelle, a South African based chemistry-led manufacturing business. Effective immediately, Orkila will distribute Cirebelle’s full range, including the exfoliating wax spheres to South African customers. Cirebelle’s exfoliating wax spheres are non-toxic, biodegradable and can be used in a wide range of applications including cleansing products, bar soaps, emulsions, gels and oils. Available in a variety of attractive colours for an intense visual impact, especially in clear and bar formulations. Orkila was recently acquired by Azelis. With more than 60 application labs across the world, each dedicated to a single market segment, Azelis develops innovative formulations that excite customers. Custom formulations, product testing, regulatory compliance, and sales support are just some of the services Azelis offers.
visit azelis.com
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
New areas of application for Flavocare, skin’s phyto-guardian Flavocare – a biomimetic multifunctional active ingredient – is the first purified and standardised polyphenol complex extracted from propolis. Developed in Italy by Kialab and available in South Africa from Danlink Ingredients, the active ingredient is in vivo and in vitro tested for its efficacy in deodorants and anti-acne and anti-pollution skin care applications.
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orking in conjunction with universities, start-ups and R&D centres, Kialab develops and markets innovative ingredients for the cosmetics industry. The company focuses on ‘nature-like’ ingredients, often inspired by the concept of biomimicry, circular economy and biotechnologies, obtained by sustainable processes and technologies with low environmental impact. Flavocare is one of the innovative ingredients of Kialab and, like all the ingredients from the company, it takes its inspiration from nature and in particular originates from the universal knowledge of the protective effects of natural flavonoids contained in propolis on plant and tree buds. Until now, traditional propolis extracts were obtained by solvent extraction, in particular with ethanol. There are limitations to this method in that only some active polyphenols with good solubility in ethanol are extracted (such as phenolic acid and aglycon bioflavonoids) while others are completely lost due to them having a different solubility degree to certain glycosylate fractions. Kialab has preserved the bioactive polyphenolic combination in Flavocare through the use of an innovative and patented extraction process called MED, or dynamic multi-extraction.
A MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT Kialab performed in vitro and in vivo tests on Flavocare to identify new areas of application. The active ingredient displayed favourable benefits as a multifunctional ingredient. It works as a bacteriostatic agent in the treatment of acne, as an odour control system in deodorants, as a soothing agent, TEWL-
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reducing agent and anti-pollution active for the skin. Flavocare has been shown to have bacteriostatic efficacy and a soothing action. Following impairment of the skin barrier and sensitisation by use of SLS, the active ingredient showed to reduce redness by 11% after four hours of its application. It also works as TEWL-reducing agent, strengthening the skin barrier, and preventing and reducing dehydration of the skin. Test results showed a 22% decrease in TEWL after 60 minutes of Flavocare application, ultimately improving skin hydration. These characteristics support the use of Flavocare in hygiene and detergent products as well as hand and body lotions that strengthen the skin barrier by preserving hydration and soothing irritated skin. Frequent handwashing and the increased use of alcohol-based sanitisers has resulted in skin dehydration and impaired barrier function. The alteration of the skin barrier can cause dryness, skin irritation and sensitisation. To overcome this challenge, Flavocare is suitable for use in gel hand sanitiser formulations because its flavonoids remain on the skin, offering a prolonged antimicrobial effect while soothing irritated skin. In a soothing handcream formulation, Flavocare is ideal for strengthening and soothing irritated skin and to prevent and reduce dehydration as a result of sanitiser products.
ANTI-POLLUTION AND ANTIACNE ACTIVITY In anti-pollution applications, the more intact the cutaneous barrier, the less pollutants can penetrate the skin. Flavocare displays efficacy in decreasing
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Did you know? Flavocare is a unique, purified and standardised integral bioactive polyphenolic combination propolis extract in which six polyphenols (apigenin, chrysin, galangin, pinocembrin, pinobanksin and quercetin) represent more than 25% of the total composition. Flavocare is free from contaminants and it is COSMOS Natural-approved. the adhesion of pollutant particles on the skin and in increasing evenness of skin tone. These results show that the active ingredient works as anti-pollution ingredient, protecting the skin from pollution particles which induce premature ageing of the skin, resulting in the appearance of dark spots, loss of radiance and an increase in skin sensitivity. Inspired by bacterial inhibition tests on the Propionibacterium acnes strain, the anti-acne activity was evaluated in vivo using two daily applications (morning and night for 28 days) of an emulsion containing 4% of Flavocare Hydroglyceric. Tests were conducted on 34 volunteers of both sexes (17 of them constituted the control group, who were treated with the placebo). The age range of the volunteers was 18 to 40 with acne-prone skin. An evaluation of the acneic lesions was performed using the IGA-FDA acne severity scale. Test results showed an improvement in skin appearance and a reduction of the acneic lesions. The sebumetric evaluation showed a 24% reduction in sebum production with the formula containing Flavocare Hydroglyceric at 4%. This activity suggests the possibility of using the active ingredient in other cosmetics categories, such as scalp care, where the normalisation of sebaceous production is crucial. •
Kialab – www.kialab.it/en Danlink Ingredients – www.danlink.com
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
New peptides, plant extracts and hyaluronic acids
Evonik has expanded its bio-based portfolio of active ingredients to meet the growing demand for sustainable cosmetics and personal care products. This further amplifies the ability of the speciality chemicals company to help customers transform their brands to generate distinctive sustainability outcomes.
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ith the development of new
platforms for cholesterol specialties and alpha hydroxy acids plus other peptides, plant extracts and hyaluronic acids, Evonik has significantly expanded its bio-based portfolio of active ingredients. These solutions for the cosmetic and personal care markets meet the growing demand for differentiated, sustainably sourced products. This major portfolio expansion follows the acquisition of Wilshire Technologies earlier this year. It supports the ongoing transformation of Evonik’s growth division, Nutrition & Care, towards its key driver – sustainability. The new bio-based active ingredients of the Care Solutions business line help customers to generate distinctive sustainability outcomes. In addition to Wilshire, since 2016 Evonik has made four other strategic acquisitions relating to its Care Solutions business line including Air Products and Dr. Straetmans. To further help customers generate distinctive sustainability outcomes, over the coming year Evonik expects to add other unique active ingredients, intermediates, preservatives and derivatives into its portfolio for cosmetic and personal care applications.
"Evonik expects to add other unique active ingredients, intermediates, preservatives and derivatives into its portfolio" 22
TRANSLATING SUSTAINABILITY INTO PROFITABILITY Evonik’s sustainability strategy is an expression of its ambition to become the best-in-class speciality chemicals company worldwide. It has set ambitious environmental goals with the understanding to translate sustainability into profitability. The following building blocks are at the centre of Evonik’s sustainability strategy 2020+: • new environmental targets and introduction of carbon pricing • integrating sustainability into strategic management processes • systematic review of the impact of its business activities along the value chain • continuous improvement of the company’s sustainability reporting. Evonik is convinced that there are close links between environmental protection and sustainability, growth and prosperity. The interest of key stakeholders in corporate sustainability is also growing. The company responds to this with extensive transparency and soundly-based analytical methods. Alongside potential future opportunities and risks, this highlights the value created for society by Evonik’s business activities.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS YOU CAN TRUST “Evonik is rapidly expanding its portfolio to meet growing market demand for bio-based ingredients that can enhance the sustainability, functionality and consumer appeal of cosmetic and personal care products,” says Ricardo Willemann, vice president of active ingredients at Evonik. “The integration of these new technology platforms and line extensions will
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further consolidate our position as one of the world’s leading and most trusted suppliers of active ingredients, formulation development and bioanalytical services.” New platforms of cholesterol specialties and mild, moisture-retaining alpha hydroxy acids, plus a range of peptides, plant extracts and a natural hyaluronic acid are now available within the company’s active ingredients portfolio. These high-quality active ingredients are designed for use across a range of application areas such as premium skin care, advanced cleansers and hair care. Examples of the actives include: • alpha hydroxy acids with milder effects and greater humectant properties to retain moisture • natural hyaluronic acid with excellent moisturisation and water retention properties • cholesterol specialties with a high purity • peptides to boost the skin and hair matrix • plant extracts with highly enriched component materials. Cosmetic solutions is one of the six innovation growth fields at Evonik which are key to driving the future of the company. Many of the core competencies that enable innovative outcomes for cosmetics applications, as well as other growth fields including healthcare, advanced food ingredients, additive manufacturing and sustainable nutrition, reside within the Nutrition & Care division of Evonik. •
Evonik – corporate.evonik.com/en
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
A new approach to caring for the scalp microbiome Our skin is colonised by billions of bacteria and fungi found on the surface as well as the top layers of the epidermal stratum corneum. Hair follicles also provide a fruitful environment for microbes. Over the last decade, the cosmetics industry has learnt a lot about the human microbiome and its composition and interaction, which is vast. We, as Homo sapiens, are a true holobiont. We act as a host for our microbiota and, together, form an individual. By Harald van der Hoeven
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human host. These are partly consumed by the
he Baas-Becking hypothesis describes the basic principle of microbiology as ‘everything is everywhere, but the
fungi while the free fatty acids that are of no use to the fungi are excreted.
environment selects’. This principle
The mono-unsaturated free fatty
helps in the understanding that
acids, such as oleic acid, play an
the microbial composition of our
important causative role in
skin varies from one area to
dandruff. These molecules
the next. The environment
negatively influence skin
is provided largely by skin
barrier function, allowing
itself. For instance, it
for the initiation of,
regulates pH. Additionally,
often subclinical,
skin provides molecules
inflammatory processes
which can be used as a
and hyperkeratinisation,
foodstuff by microbes. In
where hyperproliferation
areas where we find many
and altered corneocyte
active sebaceous glands,
maturation can be
a large amount of sebum
observed. This is a key
is produced, which can be
driver of the formation of
used by lipophilic microbes.
flakes, i.e. dandruff.
This results in their growth
Similar to Cutibacterium
and proliferation. In areas with
and Staphylococcus, both
lower production of sebum, these
M. restricta and M. globosa are
species will not be able to flourish
commensal species. Their presence
as easily.
on our scalp is normal, not problematic
In healthy situations, together, we
and could even be beneficial to us. In this
truly are a holobiont. We have a symbiotic
context, C. acnes was, until recently, considered
relationship in which we profit from one another. We provide our microbiota with an environment in which they can flourish, and they provide us with a means to ensure that the barrier function of our skin is upheld, for example. This relationship is much more than just mutually beneficial – it is symbiotic, we indeed need one another. It is an equilibrium; however, this equilibrium is rather vulnerable. Changes in skin – for instance during puberty, after menopause, or by external influences such as seasonal changes, UV exposure etc. – can
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to be the ‘acne bacterium’. Killing it, or at This is followed by the initiation of inflammatory processes which can be severe, resulting in the
always associated with reducing acne. Current
formation of papules and pustules.
knowledge now shows us that C. acnes is a
ZOOMING IN ON THE SCALP
However, some strains – phylotypes of
beneficial and important species to human skin.
The scalp forms a unique habitat for microbes. Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus are the dominant bacterial genera on the scalp. In addition, the scalp provides a habitat for some unique fungal species which cannot be found
have a strong impact on our relationship. An
elsewhere on skin, most importantly Malassezia
increase in sebum during puberty is key in the
restricta and Malassezia globosa. Like C. acnes,
development of acne. Virulent phylotypes of
these lipophilic fungi lack the ability to produce
Cutibacterium acnes profit from the increase
lipids themselves. They rely on the host to
in sebum production and start to colonise the
provide them with lipids. They produce lipases,
hair follicle, producing a biofilm that provides a
which perform the hydrolysis of sebum and
protected environment for continued growth.
ester bonds of triacylglycerols produced by the
least reducing its presence on the skin, was
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" A sustainable solution to the microbial imbalance of dandruff scalp seems to be found in reducing Staphylococcus and allowing Cutibacterium to thrive"
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Figure 1: Activity on bacterial load and composition
C. acnes – are virulent and play a causative role
1. M. restricta, being the species which is clearly
in acne. But most of the C. acnes strains in our
more present on dandruff scalp, is the fungal
follicles are beneficial.
species that plays the most important
Currently, such a detailed understanding is lacking for M. restricta and M. globosa, unfortunately. Anti-fungal approaches have
detrimental role in dandruff. 2. M. globosa, showing relatively lower abundance on dandruff scalp, might be
always been successful in fighting dandruff,
a beneficial species, which supports
albeit not sustainably. Products with anti-
scalp health.
fungal activity need to be applied repeatedly.
Knowledge on these important details is
Realising that both fungal species dominate
currently still lacking, but it looks to be clear that,
the fungal community on the scalp, they, or at
when wanting to reduce dandruff sustainably,
least some of their phylotypes, play a causative
a reduction of fungal load should focus on
role in dandruff.
M. restricta and not on M. globosa.
Despite the fact that we lack knowledge on
In an analogy with above fungi, dandruff
COMBINING A NATURAL AND SCIENTIFIC APPROACH In studies performed by CLR Berlin, we saw that a benchmark anti-fungal ingredient, piroctone olamine, indeed reduced fungal load, but completely abolished M. globosa. In the same study, we saw that the bacterial load was increased with piroctone olamine while the relative abundance of Staphylococcus was also increased. These results show that this rather unspecific anti-fungal approach does not help in regaining a healthy composition of the scalp microbiome. It merely seems to act on the consequence of the problem and not the problem itself.
the phylotype level of said fungi, we do know
scalp shows a distinctly different bacterial
that a dandruff scalp shows some interesting
composition compared to normal scalp. In both
differences to normal scalp. These differences
cases Cutibacterium is the dominant genus,
approach to influencing microbial growth on the
most probably play a role in the pathological
but, on dandruff scalp, a clear relative increase
scalp, in the same study showed that fungal
processes taking place in dandruff scalp and
in Staphylococcus is recognised. A similar
load was decreased, yet the relative abundance
drive detrimental processes leading to the
interpretation as above can be made.
of M. globosa was increased. In addition,
production of flakes, inflammation and dryness.
Cutibacterium is largely positive and a relative
CutiBiome CLR, with its multifaceted
CutiBiome CLR allowed for the growth of
Comparably to acne, here too it seems to be
decrease of this genus might play a role in
Cutibacterium. As opposed to piroctone olamine,
better not to simply kill microbes, but to rather
dandruff. Staphylococcus is a genus largely
it did not allow for the growth of Staphylococcus,
look at the whole microbial composition.
considered to also be positive. In the case of
therefore reducing the relative abundance of
dandruff, this assumption is unjustified.
Staphylococcus. See Figure 1. These results show that a natural approach
MICROBIAL DYSBIOSIS OF THE SCALP
S. epidermidis, for instance, is a species often
The microbial differences between normal and
perceived as ‘good’, but is considered to be
based on traditional knowledge and state-
dandruff scalp are multifaceted. Firstly, a larger
one of the species playing a causative role
of-the-art science, such as CutiBiome CLR,
fungal load is recognised on dandruff scalp. In
in dandruff. Alongside it is the pathogenic
can be infinitely smarter than even the most
the past, scientists saw this as another strong
family member, S. aureus. An increase in
well-known and appreciated active ingredients
indication of the role of fungi in dandruff, yet it
Staphylococcus, therefore, can largely be
for dandruff.
is now considered to be, at best, one of several
seen as an increase of a genus which plays a
microbial aspects of dandruff scalp. Not only is
negative role in the pathological processes
from IMCD, the approved local distributor of
the fungal load increased, but also the fungal
in dandruff scalp. Here, too, a sustainable
CLR Berlin. •
composition is different to normal scalp. The
solution to the microbial imbalance of
relative abundance of M. restricta is increased
dandruff scalp seems to be found in reducing
and that of M. globosa is decreased. This can be
Staphylococcus and allowing Cutibacterium
interpreted in two ways:
to thrive.
CutiBiome CLR is available in South Africa
CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com/en
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INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Rethinking beauty with a focus on self-care COVID-19 has brought about many changes in our lives and has impacted consumers’ beauty routines. Mintel already predicted an increasing interest in well-being in 2019, but the onset of the pandemic in 2020 has caused this trend to boom. Karen Maier, head of performance materials at Merck South Africa, explores formulation concepts in line with this trend.
H
ealth concerns and the stress of lockdown have ensured that everyone is more aware of the importance of self-care and taking time out to relax. There is no better way to do this than creating a spa experience at home. As consumers are very much into the idea of hyperpersonalisation, the home-spa is an ideal space to create a unique and highly-personalised beauty experience. People want customisable products and experiences that cater to their own beauty needs. At the moment, there are two distinct trends when it comes to beauty routines: 1. an express version with multi-functional ingredients, where one product can do more, i.e. multi-use, multi-benefit products, also called ‘skip- care’ 2. the opposite end of the spectrum with a multistep routine. This multi-step trend is inspired by Korean beauty and the advantages of the multilayer approach to skin care. There is a strong belief that the various steps give the skin the benefit of each product applied.
Did you know? Ectoine is a powerful molecule produced via biotechnological fermentation. As the active cosmetic ingredient in RonaCare Ectoin IQ, it naturally activates the skin’s ability to speed up its defence system.
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Whichever approach the consumer prefers, the basic requirements remain the same: efficient beauty products that promote healthy skin.
KEEP TABS ON THE TRENDS When purchasing beauty products, consumers want products that will ensure a general sense of well-being. They also require proven skin-health benefits and transparent and ethical behaviour from beauty brands. The demand for clean, natural and green products is growing along with personalisation, either in terms of a product or a beauty routine. Consumers also want protection against environmental stressors. Another trend the cosmetics industry should take seriously is skin positivity. For example, not focussing on antiageing messaging but rather promoting well-ageing or the concept of healthylooking and glowing skin, thereby helping consumers to be the best version of themselves while achieving the goal of looking fabulous forever. While all of this may seem a big ask, there are skin care actives on the market for unique, modern formulations which will address many of these requirements. RonaCare Ectoin is one of those multitasking, efficient ingredients that can be used in a skip-care product to great effect, or it can slot into a multi-layer routine with equal ease.
NATURE’S SECRET FOR SKIN PROTECTION RonaCare Ectoin is a completely natural and sustainable ingredient derived from halophilic bacteria occurring in nature. Extremophiles are organisms living in natural conditions of extreme environmental stress. In order to survive adverse conditions such as extreme heat and cold, they generate small protection molecules called extremolytes. Ectoine is one of these extremolytes, helping
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
" Products formulated with RonaCare Ectoin bring a sense of well-being to the consumer" halophilic bacteria survive in hostile environments. RonaCare Ectoin makes use of the natural survival properties of ectoine to bring a myriad of benefits to cosmetic applications. Over 20 years of research has proven that it works, providing natural cell protection, acting as a supermoisturiser and supporting the process of ageing gracefully. The active ingredient from Merck protects the cell against the stresses of everyday life, heat, cold, dry conditions, UV-induced stress and chemical irritants and pollutants. Another significant benefit is its ability to bring long-term hydration to the skin. This is thanks to its ability to form large, stable water clusters within the skin, which are retained over long periods and leave the skin looking and feeling plump and healthy. Studies have shown that using products formulated with RonaCare Ectoin bring a sense of well-being to the consumer. Rough skin is soothed and smoothed, wrinkles are plumped up, and thus formulations are perceived to be effective and elegant. Merck recently launched RonaCare Ectoin IQ, an improved quality grade with exceptionally low methanol content, particularly suitable for clean cosmetics.
INNOVATION IS KEY Once a formulator has found the right active ingredients for their products, the next step is to look at the kind of formulation to be presented to the market. Novel formulation concepts are required to entice consumers to make purchases. A few examples of unexpected
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Table 1: Yoga skin drops – instant glow finish Phase
Ingredient
INCI
Colorona Precious Gold
Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Tin Oxide
0.10
Timiron Halo White
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
0.50
RonaCare Ectoin
Ectoin
0.50
RonaCare Potassium Sorbate
Potassium Sorbate
0.50
RonaCare Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Benzoate
0.50
Glycerol 85%
Glycerin, Aqua (Water)
5.00
Solagum AX
Xanthan Gum, Acacia Gum
1.00
Water, demineralised
Aqua
Perfume BOIS DE BAMBOU GNF 46818
Parfum (Fragrance)
0.50
Cremophor RH 410
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
1.00
D
PVP/VA W-735
VP/VA Copolymer
1.00
E
Citric acid, 10% solution
Aqua (Water), Citric Acid
A
B
C
%w/w
ad 100
QS
Formulation guide formats include a gel cream, foaming cleansing powder, an instant glow or glass finish serum, or something that can transform itself during use. Have a look at the formulation guide featured in Table 1 for some inspiration.
to understand what the market desires and For the beauty industry to prevail in challenging times, we have to offer something new and enticing. As a luxurious, tailor-made home-spa experience is currently high on the list of consumer must-haves, it is up to suppliers
then provide effective, safe and sustainable formulations to ensure this industry survives the pandemic, and beyond. • Merck – www.merckgroup.com
Enabling graceful aging Protection from environmental stress like sunlight and pollution Works as a strong moisturizer
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INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Sourcing, producing & innovating sustainably The Greentech Group creates high-tech active ingredients sourced from plant, marine and microbial resources. Assigned to major markets, including cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, agronomy and environment, the group’s innovations represent proven, healthy and sustainable alternatives.
R
epresented locally by Natchem, Greentech’s vision and values have remained constant since the group was established in 1992. Its business model has always been based on innovation for human well-being and health while preserving biodiversity in a sustainable and balanced manner, which includes mutually-beneficial relationships regional producers worldwide. Social, environmental and societal utility is fully integrated in the company’s activities and has been a factor of its success since inception.
GUIDED BY SUSTAINABILITY
Did you know? On 2 April 2019, Greentech was awarded the ISO 26000 label, presented to one of its founders and CSR promotor, Alain Jounot. This assessment reflects the company’s constant commitment to sustainable development since its inception 25 years ago. Greentech is also audited annually by the Ecovadis platform. In 2019, it was awarded a Silver rating, which was renewed in 2020. The company aims to earn a Gold rating very soon.
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Sustainable development is more than a concept for Greentech; it’s a fundamental pillar on which the business is based. It lies at the heart of the company, as it produces extracts from plants located worldwide to promote their use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals. Sustainability is found in every relationship the company establishes with its employees, who, regardless of their role or duties, are ambassadors of Greentech and essential to its success. It is also at the origin of every partnership the company establishes with its suppliers, such as in Peru, South America, where Greentech works with producers from the region to produce organic and fair-trade Inca Inchi oil, well known for its omega 3, 6 and 9 content. The group went on to establish this global culture and promotion in 2003 with its partner, Agroindustrias Amazonicas. Since then, every development project that Greentech conducts has been based on this ethos. These development projects are conducted in collaboration with regional partners, and are highlighted in the Worldwide Sourcing web series it continues
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
GREENTECH’S SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS IN ACTION • Madagascar: GreenMadag Since 2008, Greentech has partnered with the Diego Suarez University of Antsiranana, on the GreenMadag project. This project is dedicated to the development of new actives originating from flora from the region which are rich in medicinal benefits. By way of a research and training programme with economic benefits, Greentech supplies all of the equipment; trains the students, future technicians and engineers and performs extractions in situ. • Peru: Inca Inchi oil In 2003, Greentech began supporting Agroindustrias Amazonicas in the extraction of Inca Inchi oil. This technological and commercial partnership involves equipment supply, production support and the purchasing of the raw material. As a result of the project, over 2 000 hectares of Plukenetia volubilis have been planted with 10 000 families either fully or partially living off the economic benefits of cultivating these plantations. • Burkina Faso: Baobab oil Since 1999, Greentech has supported a group of women to produce baobab oil and continues to guarantee the quantities and prices of the oil. A total of 50 women benefit from equipment donations and training to ensure the quality of the baobab oil is standardised. Today, this cooperation extends to other plant-based oils and raw materials.
to produce showcasing the plant sourcing efforts performed by a network of people around the world. Furthermore, the daily strategic decisions of the company are guided by sustainability, which strengthens Greentech’s ability to prevent risks, analyse its environment and act in accordance with the context of the regions in which it operates.
CREATING SPECIALISED RAW MATERIALS Because the planet’s resources are not unlimited and Greentech is constantly thinking of future generations, the group has always placed sustainability and fair trade at the heart of its concerns. Each action is taken respectfully in terms of individuals and nature, on a moral, technical and economic level. Partnerships are formed on the basis of equal relationships, to achieve mutual progress and benefit. It is in this spirit that Mapric has just
joined the Greentech Group. Mapric possesses unique expertise in Brazilian biodiversity, and develops active and functional ingredients for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical markets. It is the first company to receive CGEN’s approval for more than 60 Brazilian plants thanks to its collaborative actions with extractivist communities in several regions around the country. Plant biodiversity is respected, know-how in the region is improved, knowledge is shared, economic benefits for the local population are achieved, the lifestyle of communities is respected, gender equality is observed, and child exploitation is banned. Greentech is also involved in the preservation of rare or endangered species, by working together with communities in over 20 countries worldwide. • Greentech – www.greentech.fr/en Natchem - www.natchem.co.za
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INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
The beauty of natural solubilisers in fragrances & cosmetics Solubilisers are widely used in cosmetic and personal care products as they assist with incorporating hydrophobic substances such as essential oils or fragrance oils into aqueous formulations. They play an important role in keeping the final product clear and preventing separation over time. While this sounds easy enough, in practice it is very difficult. Ask any perfume manufacturer and they will tell you that clarity is as important as the aroma. But why is transparency important?
I
t turns out that clarity and transparency are key attributes consumers look for when selecting a perfume or other form of fragrance product. According to Mintel, the average price for an eau de parfum in the US and Europe is around $80 for a 50mℓ bottle. At that price point, consumers are looking for nothing less than perfection. In addition, they want to be sure the appearance of their product stays the same over time. Then there is also the packaging. Perfume manufacturers spend a great deal of time finding glass with the highest clarity to package their products. Bottle line, clarity reigns supreme. And, if you want to add another level of complexity, skip using alcohols.
Table 1: Alcohol-Free Body Mist (SCT 2256) Phase
A
B
30
%w/w
Natpure Sol Crystal
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Water (and) Diisopropyl Adipate (and) Triethyl Citrate
Addicted to you549984523
Fragrance
Pure water
Aqua
Glycerin
Glycerin
3.00
Euxyl PE9010
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
0.50
12.00 2.00 82.50
Table 2: Luminous Natural Shower Oil (SCT 2263) Phase
A
B
C
AN EFFICIENT NATURAL SOLUBILISER Solubilisant LRI is widely considered the gold standard of solublisers and is used in applications where either the essential oil or other non-polar ingredient(s) are difficult to incorporate without the final product appearing hazy. Solubilisant LRI is also used in applications where formulators are looking
INCI
Formulation guide
SOLUBILISERS IN CLEANSERS In facial cleansers, solubilisers play a different role. Cleansers are made up of micelles that are small particles of surfactant suspended in water. Micelles are attracted to dirt and oil, so they are able to draw out impurities. The surfactant present in the cleanser product has to be soft and non-irritating to the skin while maintaining efficiency in makeup removal. Some cleansers, such as micellar water products, are formulated to be clear, hence the use of water in the product’s description. The transparency can only be achieved by making microemulsions with the right solubiliser.
Ingredient
D
Ingredient
INCI
Pure Water
Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Tin Oxide
Glycerin
Glycerin
5.00
Plantacare 818 UP
Coco-Glucoside
1.00
Texapon NSO IS
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
2.00
Trisodium Citrate Dihydrate
Trisodium Citrate
0.50
Butylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
1.00
Euxyl PE 9010
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
0.30
Xanthan Gum
Xanthan Gum
0.50
Monoï Tiaré (545600515)
Fragrance
0.20
Natpure Feel M Eco
Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl Myristate
1.00
Natpure Sol Crystal
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Water (and) Diisopropyl Adipate (and) Triethyl Citrate
Natpure Col Yellow LC 112
CI 75300
0.01
Sensisorb CF+
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol (and) Butylphthalimide (and) Isopropylphthalimide (and) Ethylhexyl Salicylate (and) Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
0.50
Solution Acide Citrique 10%
Citric Acid
pH 5.5/6
Formulation guide
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%w/w 67.99
20.00
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
TECHNICAL PROPERTIES OF NATPURE SOL CRYSTAL • oily ingredient solubiliser for reduced alcohol content or alcohol-free cosmetics • compatible with perfume concentrate, essential oils, actives, emollients, UV filters and vitamins • non-ionic solubiliser compatible with most preservatives on the market • compatible with ethanol • easy to use due to its low viscosity • low percentage required for stable and transparent microemulsions. to minimise or eliminate the use of alcohols, which can dry the skin. These days, consumers and the brands that cater to them, are looking for products with natural ingredients – Sensient has innovated the answer to natural solublisers. Natpure Sol Crystal is a patented, 91% naturally-derived solubiliser designed for the formulation of personal care products
that highlight naturality. It also provides formulators the ability to reduce, or even eliminate alcohols in their products. Its low viscosity makes it easy to use. In addition, it is environmentally friendly (biodegradable and non-ecotoxic) and non-irritating to the skin.
FORMULATING WITHOUT ALCOHOLS Sensient Cosmetic Technologies has created some stunning formulations to guide formulators looking to design products without alcohols. Its micellar cleansing water promises to gently cleanse and deeply hydrate skin. This formulation is optimal for makeup removal, thanks to Natpure Sol Crystal and moisturising Hydrofacteur HC, a natural substitute for natural moisturising factors (NMF). Sensient’s alcohol-free body mist carries just a touch of
perfume. Natpure Sol Crystal allows formulators to solubilise a large amount of perfume, without alcohol, while maintaining transparency. It also welcomes brands looking to explore clean beauty. See Table 1 for the formulation guide. The luminous natural shower oil is Sensient’s gently cleansing shower cleanser formulated with a low level of surfactants thanks to the cleansing properties of Natpure Sol Crystal. With this product formulators can combine sensory and visual pleasure with the light texture of Natpure Feel M-Eco and the luminous colour of Natpure Col Yellow LC 112, protected with Sensisorb CF+. See Table 2 for the formulation guide. •
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
NATPURE® SOL Crystal Unique efficient solubilizer designed to formulate natural cosmetics and fragrances
Contact our team : nicola.barnardmarais@sensient.com www.sensient-cosmetics.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Optimised vegan alternative* solutions
The beauty and personal care industry finds itself in a position where product offerings need to be adapted to appeal to a growing consumer base that is choosing to improve their lifestyles, including their beauty routines. The appeal is driven by clean and conscious beauty trends, focused on ingredient and brand transparency.
T
he vegan trend continues to grow globally. In the last five years, Google searches of the term ‘vegan’ have increased in popularity by 155%. Vegan beauty is not just about the exclusion of animal products and cruelty-free formulas; there is a perception that vegan beauty offerings are more natural, cleaner and a smarter choice for consumers wanting to reduce their impact on the environment. Many consumers that buy vegan beauty products do not necessarily follow a vegan diet, strengthening the argument that vegan beauty products have a wider consumer appeal for those seeking more environmentally-friendly and ethical options. In the beauty and personal care market, new product launches offering vegan claims have increased over the past five years in all regions, with a 46% increase witnessed from 2018 to 2019. Europe and North America have dominated the market with vegan product launches, though its growth is also strong in Latin America and the Middle East and Africa.
32
Did you know? Vegan product launches have increased by a staggering 437% in the last five years, according to Mintel GNPD.
ALTERNATIVES FOR HAIR CARE In the hair care category, consumers have traditionally sought keratin proteins, silicones and other functional ingredients in hair products to improve the sensorial feel and overall quality of damaged hair. Croda recently launched KeraMatch V for consumers seeking vegan alternatives to the animal derivation of keratin; SensaLuxe DF to address the environmental impact of traditional hair care actives for damaged hair; and Cithrol PGTL, which is a great alternative to traditional PEG-based emulsifiers. All three Croda ingredients are ideal and viable solutions for the growing vegan trend.
OPTIMISED PROTEIN BLEND KeraMatch V (INCI: Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Pea Protein (and) Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein) is an optimised protein blend specifically designed to offer performance benefits equivalent to animal-derived keratin. The amino acid profile of the ingredient blend is optimised to ensure as close a match as possible to that of a hydrolysed keratin of a similar average molecular weight. Single fibre tensile testing was used to assess and validate the performance efficacy of KeraMatch V on damaged bleached European hair, compared to the animal-derived keratin. Consumer-perceivable efficacy studies were also conducted by licensed cosmetologists, who carried out half-head conditioner salon
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
"SensaLuxe DF is effective in rinseoff and leave-on products, providing a novel alternative to traditional hair care actives“ testing protocols on panellists with damaged hair. Ratings by both the cosmetologists and panellists demonstrated an overall comparable perception of strength with KeraMatch V versus the animal-derived keratin. Furthermore, the side treated with KeraMatch V was rated better than the side treated with the animal-derived keratin in a number of wet and dry attributes, including wet combing, wet feel, dry combing, dry feel, softness, anti-frizz, style retention and the perception of moisture/hydration. The latest cyclic fatigue data conducted on natural Afro-textured hair treated with a conditioner formulation with KeraMatch V showed an increase in the characteristic life and survival probability data, indicating that the hair is more resilient and stronger, compared to the placebo.
A NOVEL COMBINATION OF INGREDIENTS With consumers increasingly looking to limit their environmental impact, SensaLuxe DF (INCI: Dioctyldodecyl Dodecanedioate) is a naturally-derived, biodegradable active that delivers consumer-perceivable improvements
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Table 1: Hydrating oil hair moisturiser ZA-0146 Phase
A
B
Ingredient
INCI
%w/w
Cithrol PGTL
Tri(Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate
1.00
SensaLuxe DF
Dioctyldodecyl Dodecanedioate
1.00
Crodamol OP
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
9.00
Sweet Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
5.00
Water Deionised
Aqua
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
1.50
Glycerine
Glycerine
5.00
Euxyl PE 9010
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
0.80
To 100
W/O emulsifier with SensaLuxe DF to give the formulation a luxuriously light, silky smooth and conditioned hair feel. During consumerperceivable efficacy studies, 80% of panellists said that hair treated with the SensaLuxe DF moisturiser was easier to comb and felt silkier. In addition, 75% of panellists said that hair treated with the SensaLuxe DF moisturiser felt more conditioned and looked smoother. • *The vegan alternative solutions described in this article can be considered to be generally suitable for vegan claims. However, as there is no single agreed definition, standard or global certification, if you are interested in making a vegan claim, please request Croda’s vegan suitability statement for specifics on this product, and compare the certification(s) you are trying to meet.
Formulation guide in hair care products. Associated claims include smoother, softer and more manageable hair. SensaLuxe DF is effective in rinse-off and leave-on products, providing a novel alternative to traditional hair care actives to enhance the condition of damaged hair in its dry state. Cithrol PGTL (INCI: Tri(Polyglyceryl-3/ Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate) is a nonionic water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier that offers
outstanding efficiency and versatility. This novel emulsifier allows for the creation of a variety of formulation sensories, from a surprisingly light to reassuringly rich feel. This high-performance emulsifier is 100% bio-based and a great alternative to traditional PEG-based systems. Croda developed a hydrating oil hair moisturiser (ZA-0146) formulation (see Table 1), which combines the versatile Cithrol PGTL
Croda – www.croda.com
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
The rise of natural fragrances The fragrance industry has gone from an era of abstract concepts linked to sensations and escapism to one marked by nature, which calls to mind the natural ingredients themselves. Honey, vanilla, jasmine or bamboo are now the protagonist ingredients of thousands of new fragrance launches. But what has triggered this trend among consumers?
A
ccording to Iberchem, the main
reason seems to be an increasing interest in health and environmental wellness. What first took over the culinary world, is now making itself comfortable within the beauty and fragrance industry. When it comes to the environment, it’s best to avoid confusion – citing sustainability as a reason for the consumption of natural products is not necessarily a valid one. Natural ingredients are not more sustainable. It all depends on how they are harvested. Still, the fragrance industry is working hard to respond to this clear demand by taking actions such as trying to reduce its overall carbon footprint, while implementing sustainable improvements across its supply chains, both upstream and downstream. The other major motive behind the trend towards natural fragrances is health – people perceive natural as being healthy. In this sense, consumers should be at ease knowing that most countries have strict regulations governing every single ingredient that goes into a final product. In Europe, for instance, there is the REACH regulation which aims to protect human health and the environment from chemical substances present in any form in commercial products.
"Natural ingredients are not more sustainable. It all depends on how they are harvested“ 34
Did you know? Fragrance houses offer fragrance technologies with hygiene benefits, designed especially for cleaning and antibacterial products. These technologies utilise the relationship between the molecular structure of fragrance ingredients and their antimicrobial activity. They are suitable for all applications where hygiene claims are important, for example, cleaners, hand soap and sanitisers, and shower and deodorant products.
CERTIFIED INGREDIENTS It can be difficult for consumers to be sure that the fragrances they are buying are truly natural and not just greenwashing through the use of buzzwords. Something consumers should look for are certifications of the manufacturers. COSMOS is an international, EU-born certification which establishes the requirements for a product to be defined as natural or organic. This certification is awarded by Ecocert, and fragrance houses such as Iberchem now offer a wide range of natural ingredients certified as COSMOS-natural. Ecocert is an independent certification body, which certifies that a product complies with European ecological standards. On average, natural products certified by Ecocert contain 99% ingredients of natural origin. All products sold commercially with the Ecocert logo have been verified, from their composition to how they are manufactured and packaged. Once the certification is awarded, renewal is subject to an annual review of each certified raw material.
Luz Vaquero, chief perfumer at Iberchem, says natural ingredients and natural fragrances seem to be here to stay
top, middle and bottom notes in balance. So far, in fine perfumery, we have used natural ingredients to create more complex perfumes, adding them to formulas using synthetic ingredients. Developing fine fragrances using only natural ingredients represents a great challenge for modern-day perfumery. “Considering the growing demand for naturals over the past years, natural ingredients and natural fragrances seem to be here to stay. The perfume and cosmetics industry is highly dynamic and undergoes constant research. We can then expect progress in such products over the coming months and years.” The great challenge now is to balance this demand with another great worldwide preoccupation: hygienic products. According to an April 2020 report by Euromonitor, there will be a strong increase in demand for products perceived as clean and hygienic. “We will have to watch closely for changes in a market currently framed by the COVID-19 pandemic. With more and more people shopping online and in-store testers being disregarded, it will be interesting to see what the future will hold for the perfume and cosmetics industry. Will the trend for natural survive the new normal? Or will people prioritise the hygienic claim?” asks Vaquero. •
THE FUTURE OF NATURALS “Essential oils are already a blend as complex as that of a perfume,” mentions Luz Vaquero, chief perfumer at Iberchem. “They contain
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Iberchem – www.iberchem.com
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
Furry friend-approved fragrances and targeted pet care formulas
The next wave of strategic fragrance and ingredient technology is here. As a global leader in fragrance and ingredients manufacturing and sustainable innovation, Symrise believes in providing a better product for every member of the family – including pets. As a result, the company has expanded its fragrance and cosmetic ingredients into a new category: pet care.
A
ccording to the UK government, during the pandemic pet ownership has risen sharply with a 125% increase in online adverts for cats and dogs. Pet lovers adjusting to a new normal are forming even closer bonds with pets and new reports are finding that consumers everywhere are looking to elevate their pets’ experience. In this article, Anne Cabotin, senior global vice president,
we’ve become a unique and strong player in the market. Pets, especially dogs, have become an integral part of families worldwide and pet parenthood keeps growing. Over the last 10 years, there has been a 40% increase in the number of people who have pets. Today, 75% of all US millennials have a pet. Dogs have moved from the backyard to the front yard and into our homes – the shift from simply feeding a
products in the category are sold in very specific channels and are considered ‘plus products’, which are usually marketed in a very technical way. This is the ideal time to broaden the
consumer fragrance at Symrise; Dr Gabriele Vielhaber, senior vice president, global accounts, cosmetic ingredients division at Symrise; and Bertrand de Launay, president of Diana pet Dr Gabriele Vielhaber, senior vice president, food, discuss the company’s global accounts, cosmetic ingredients diversification into a promising division at Symrise category, meeting the needs of a growing demographic and the unique set of pioneering capabilities of Symrise.
pet to caring for it and loving one’s pet has been significant. Dr Vielhaber: We call this phenomenon ‘the humanisation of pets’, which drives pet parents to seek grooming and bespoke pet care solutions. As a result of COVID-19, consumers are spending more time at home with their pets, resulting in the demand for more pet-friendly quality products with a higher malodour performance. We believe that especially now, health and wellbeing are key to our society – and pet health and pet care are an integral part of this. De Launay: People have been confronted by their innermost fears during the pandemic and pet lovers are looking for products that offer reassurance, help them feel secure and bring them comfort. Pet lovers tend not to compromise on their pets’ wellbeing and often prioritise their pets’ needs over their own.
offering, yet we need to make the products more relevant to consumers and better for their pets.
1. Why has Symrise chosen to diversify into pet care? Cabotin: At Symrise, our vision is to deliver health and wellbeing to the entire family, including pets. One-third of our business comprises categories adjacent to the traditional fragrance and flavours segments. With the acquisition of Diana in 2014, we entered the exciting world of pets while expanding our capabilities in advanced natural health and wellbeing nutrition. By combining our centenary expertise in fragrances with our cosmetic ingredients portfolio and Diana’s expertise,
"Fragrances and formulas can be created to address the real needs of pets and their parents“ 36
2. How is the consumer behaviour of a pet lover unique? De Launay: Pet lovers consider their pets as important members of their families and they mimic their own purchase habits when buying products for their pets. Pet lovers have similar, if not higher, expectations in terms of the quality and diversity of product offerings for pets and extend the mindset that what is good for them has to be good for their pets. They tend to select products for the positioning, claims and benefits for pets, and they expect very high levels of product safety. 3. Why is this largely an untapped market? Cabotin: The humanisation of pets is a recent phenomenon, while pet grooming has not been a key consumer need until now. Current
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Anne Cabotin, senior global vice president, consumer fragrance at Symrise
4. What are the benefits of pet-approved fragrances and formulas? Cabotin: During our sensory evaluations at Panelis, Diana’s headquarters in Brittany, we saw clear positive and negative reactions from pets towards different fragrance profiles. This is especially important when it comes to home care. Pets and their parents are exposed to the same air care and cleaning products used for everyday home cleaning and freshening. Now pet parents will be able to purchase their essential home products knowing that the
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
Did you know? 10% of a dog’s brain is dedicated to olfaction, compared to only 0.3% of the human brain. Dogs have about 200 million olfactive neurons, which is 13 times more than humans. For these reasons, fragrances need to be tailored to ensure they do not irritate dogs and to help contribute to them feeling relaxed and happy.
fragrances in the formulations are accepted by their pets. Dr Vielhaber: Fragrances and formulas can be created to address the real needs of pets and their parents. Our goal was to understand these needs. For example, it was highly important to develop products that specifically address the skin characteristics of dogs, including their skin pH, which is higher than that of humans. Dogs also have a thinner epidermis and thinner hair. Symrise is a leader in soothing ingredients, in modern product protection and antimalodour technologies, with a large portfolio of green and natural ingredients. This puts Symrise in a perfect position to deliver on these expectations. Our most recent innovation
is a probiotic-based technology that helps to strengthen the skin barrier and delivers moisture and soothing benefits. These ingredients are new to pet grooming and will advance the category significantly. 5. What is involved in creating the fragrances? Cabotin: It took us two years to develop the perfect methodology for pet shampoo. Three criteria are considered for developing pet-approved fragrances: dog’s acceptance; pet parent approval and malodour coverage. Pet safety is also extremely important to us and is the basis on which we bring all three criteria together. We have established a research programme to identify which fragrance ingredients appeal to pets. The process has been validated by ethologists, statisticians and a veterinarian. From these findings, we will be able to formulate new fragrances that can be petapproved in other categories. 6. Please tell us about the panel of pets evaluating Symrise’s fragrances? Cabotin: Panelis is the most innovative and pet-friendly evaluation centre, providing
unique insights into the preferences and behaviours of pets. It consists of more than 1 000 pets of different breeds, ages and gender, located in France, the US, and Brazil. De Launay: The wellbeing of pets is at the centre of our approach with stimulating, cuddling games; a cosy environment; physical activity for healthy and happy pets; as well as socialising. Thanks to Panelis, we Bertrand de Launay, can conduct accurate president of Diana pet food sensorial measurements and behavioural research. We also have a community of pet parents, known as Panelis inhome, which allows us to conduct qualitative consumer explorations and quantitative in-home evaluations. •
Symrise – www.symrise.com
www.o6southafrica.com
We've got a sense for Fragrance and Taste
And a o6th sense for what your customers want for both. We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like. 011 234 8399 EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com
SMALL PACK DIVISION
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
Changing the conversation on sustainability
Sustainability is a massive trend. There are few industry segments where it hasn’t emerged, including marketing and product claims. Fragrance house Düllberg Konzentra shows us how to approach the topic with humour and irony.
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ecause everyone is talking about sustainability, the term is becoming diluted, verging on a cliché. The consequence is that ‘sustainability’ is losing its impact when communicating brand value. Düllberg Konzentra, headquartered in Hamburg, Germany, is setting out to change this. “Naturalness and sustainability have definitely become mainstream,” says Christian Lüke, head of R&D and marketing at the company. “They have become the new normal. Eco is good, right and sensible – and that’s perhaps why it is almost a bit dull.” Düllberg Konzentra has taken this insight and used it to fire up a new concept for skin care products. The new concept – Freaky – opens up an innovative playing field for how we think about sustainability. It also shows that you can take a serious topic and make it even more impactful by adding some fun. Lüke adds: “For us, ‘go green’ means – ‘go freestyle’!”
INNOVATIVE FRAGRANCE FORMULATIONS The underlying idea extends beyond launching appealing new fragrance formulations. Freaky is an overall concept consisting of several products, complete with matching colour worlds and sophisticated wording. It is a world that seems to have been turned on its head – natural formulations that imitate synthetic ingredients and are then garnished with a colourful retro vibe. “Eco bling is playfully cheeky with effective textures and intentionally loud, bold colours. Of course, all the ingredients, materials and formulations are eco-friendly and sustainable,” says Lüke. “Retro pop takes a different approach and is an ironically kitsch homage to the late 1980s and early 1990s: think early Photoshop, MTV style and Stranger Things. The ranges poke fun at the greenwashing that is characteristic of most modern marketing campaigns.”
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Lisa Achilles, marketing at Düllberg Konzentra, adds: “Terms like ‘naturalness’ and ‘sustainability’ have lost their appeal, while buzzwords such as ‘vegan’, ‘gluten-free’, ‘lactose-free’, ‘caffeine-free’ and even ‘frutan’ have spilled over into other areas of life, reaching far beyond food and cosmetics into fashion, furniture, toys and travel.” She advises brands to be cautious when using positive descriptions such as ‘vegan’. “They do not necessarily contribute to the success of a product, even if they are applicable. This is because what is appealing to one person, could be interpreted as irrelevant by another, resulting in them not buying your product,” adds Achilles.
STRIKING BACK WITH HUMOUR AND CREATIVITY Freaky uses obviously absurd and lurid ecodeclarations to poke fun in an ironic way at the excessive use of greenwashing in product marketing and brand communications. Achilles describes this as ‘a peaceful yet powerful form of activism’. “We are parodying the way that some consumers seem to want to see a long list of hip green words.” The result is astonishing ingredients like 100% caffeine-free lavender, lactose-free raspberry and sugar-free rosemary. Düllberg Konzentra’s recipe is to counter media overkill and overcommunication with humour and consumer insights.
" We are parodying the way that some consumers seem to want to see a long list of hip green words”
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Achilles adds: “We don’t want to put the absurd in ‘eco’. On the contrary, we want to celebrate nature and sustainability with deep appreciation and at the same time illuminate a questionable trend in an ironic way. We are striking back with reason, using our sharpest weapons: humour and creativity.” •
3 INNOVATIVE
FORMULATION CONCEPTS 1. Natural fruit-energy cream with pure power berries is formulated with 100% lactosefree raspberry combined with passion fruit and cranberry extracts. For the fragrance, Düllberg Konzentra has created a fresh, fruity composition with a light sweet note: mandarin, lemon and orange in the top note; passion fruit and raspberries at the heart and a base of sandalwood and vanilla. 2. Super-natural relaxing cream with 100% caffeine-free lavender and eucalyptus hits the spot with an aromatic, herbal, oriental blend of bergamot, orange and coconut in the top note, lavender and eucalyptus at the heart and patchouli and vanilla at the base. 3. Elemental force cream, a natural herb bomb, brings 100% sugar-free rosemary and mint to the game, kicking off with lemon and a green accord, adding rosemary, thyme, mint and geranium at the heart and finishing on a note of cedar wood.
Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.de/en
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
Premium products backed by excellent customer service Servicing a broad range of industry sectors – from laboratory, medical and manufacturing to cosmetics, perfumery and agricultural – EthanolSA is fully-equipped to customise ethanol according to clients’ exacting requirements. We talk to company MD, David Sly, to find out more about this family-run business. By Abby Vorster
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thanolSA has been in operation for a little over three years and continues to go from strength to strength. “Initially we did a broad scope of chemicals and consumables, but later decided to focus on one channel for the business,” Sly comments. “Working with ethanol allows us to sell into a multitude of different industry sectors, as ethanol is used in various applications and products.” Sly works together with a small team, consisting of financial director, Lelisha Smyth; finance and administration manager, Magda Sly; and imports and exports manager, Nick Murray. Together they ensure the fastest turnaround times on all orders, both big and small. Both agile and ambitious, the team is constantly looking at how to improve its quality of service and product quality and makes use of modern technology to drive the business.
Did you know? EthanolSA has a Shopify store to provide a smoother, convenient experience for clients who need to place their day-to-day orders. Click on the link to order online from EthanolSA: www.ethanolsashop.co.za.
"We believe we have developed a marketleading offering and now service many large perfume oil supplier companies“ “There is no order too complicated to handle,” says Sly, adding that “we can assist with all size containments, from bottles and drums to flow bins. We also provide tanker-to-tanker services, servicing South Africa and the cross-border and international markets.”
FLAGSHIP PRODUCTS EthanolSA is both an ethanol supplier and manufacturer of various grades of ethanol products. These include absolute, anhydrous, UN food-grade and denatured, IPA, and 99% ethanol, as well as isopropyl alcohol, perfume base, perfume alcohol and perfume solvents. The company also supplies alcohol extraction solvents for the extraction of CBD, THC, cannabis, plant and botanical material. Sly explains: “Some of our flagship products include the Scentburst perfumer’s
alcohol bases, and Xtraction – our extraction solvent – which is alcohol-based and ideal for botanical-related extractions. Scentburst was developed with the assistance of a dear colleague and friend who is a senior researcher with two doctorates in chemistry and decades of experience in the cosmetic industry. After trial and error, we believe we have developed a market-leading offering and now service many large perfume oil supplier companies, in South Africa and cross-border.” The company also offers natural sugarcane ethanol and synthetic ethanol. Its supply of ethanol is sourced from only the biggest and most reputable refineries in South Africa.
ALL EYES ON AFRICA EthanolSA’s products are available throughout South Africa and with its growing customer base in sub-Saharan Africa – in Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Lesotho – the African market can expect to see more from the company in the years to come. “Our aim is to expand our footprint across Africa. We are also constantly looking at new product development, with the plan to develop and produce quality products that span • EthanolSA – www.ethanolsa.co.za Scentburst – www.scentburst.co.za
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QA, QC & COMPLIANCE
Building quality into your cosmetic product Brand owners and manufacturers are continuously striving to innovate with technologically-advanced products that promise to deliver unique benefits. The target market for most of these companies is the modern consumer who is well-informed on aspects such as the quality, claims and efficacy of a cosmetic product. So, how does a brand ensure that they satisfy the technologically-savvy and informed consumer? By Dershana Jackison
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o remain on top of the game, new product development must integrate scientific innovation
in terms of active ingredient choice and product design. The manufacturer or brand owner should be cognisant that the investment in expensive development designs can only be fully realised when combined with equal investment in
Did you know? The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) provides in-depth training on the regulatory framework constituted of the relevant cosmetic standards and the regulatory requirements pertaining to the National Department of Health draft regulations relating to the labelling, advertising and composition of Cosmetics (22 December 2017, R.1469).
System (QMS). ISO/SANS 22716:2009 cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices (cGMP) is another standard that is implemented by the QA department to ensure that quality is integral to every link of the supply chain, from product design and ingredient and packaging component sourcing to packing the finished product as well as distribution and beyond.
quality assurance, quality control
This department is also in charge of
and regulatory compliance. A cohesive approach to these essential
assurance (QA), quality control (QC)
developing SOPs for every link of the
components of a successful company
and regulatory departments are often
supply chain: raw material and packaging
will ensure that the finished product
seen as a collective function within an
components; supplier qualification and
delivers on consumer safety, efficacy
organisation. Yet, this is a far cry from
sourcing; QC test methods; deviation and
and quality. But how does a company
an optimal organogram. Differentiating
exception procedures; preventative and
achieve this consistently? Firstly, it is
these functions within the organisation
corrective actions; equipment design;
imperative that the company invests in
is key to ensuring that all aspects of
cleaning and sanitisation; employee
sufficient, capable and qualified human
compliance are satisfied to qualify your
training; record keeping; auditing;
resources and promotes their skills
product to be placed on the market.
packaging; storage and distribution; continuous improvement and post-
development through regular training.
marketing surveillance. In essence, the
management are key; and finally,
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE QA DEPARTMENT
ensuring that your company subscribes
The function of a QA department is to
keeps the quality system connected
to a credible industry association that
ensure that every step of the processing
and functional.
partners with your teams in providing
and packaging process of a product
guidance and regulatory updates,
complies fully with the requirements as
lobbying with stakeholders on your
stipulated by the implemented quality
QC DEPARTMENT DUTIES AND TASKS
behalf and in meeting your training
management system. This system is
The QC department ensures
requirements on the most current
informed by standards and standard
that the physical, chemical and
regulatory changes and trends.
operating procedures (SOPs).
microbiological properties of the raw
Secondly, facility design and
In terms of the structural
40
SANS 9001:2008 Quality Management
The QA department is responsible
QA department forms the glue that
materials, packaging components and
organisation of the company, one of
for the manufacture and maintenance
finished products meet the required
the common oversights within the
of the quality management system
specifications. These specifications
cosmetics industry is that the quality
(QMS) within a company, such as ISO/
are decided upon internally, depending
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QA, QC & COMPLIANCE
"A QMS forms the backbone of the QA of a product as well as the foundation for GMP ” QMS AND GMP STANDARDS In South Africa, both these systems are premised on the standards published by the International Standards Organisation (ISO), which have been converted into South African National Standards (SANS) by the South African Bureau of Standards (SABS). Training on these standards is available through various service providers supporting the cosmetics industry, including CTFA. The benefits of these systems surpass the cost of implementation, as a QMS The QC department ensures that the physical, chemical and microbiological properties of the raw materials, packaging components and finished products meet the required specifications
forms the backbone of the QA of a product as well as preparing the foundation for GMP to be implemented in an organisation. The current regulatory requirement is that the various principles of GMP should be in place. When establishing SOPs, the QA manager or department is guided by the QMS and GMP standards.
on the product type and its function.
the validation process. It is after this
It is advisable to create this model to
The raw materials or ingredients and
validation process that the processing
support the supply chain activities of
packaging components suppliers
procedure is finalised for future batches.
an organisation. Depending on the size
should supply the specifications and a
A specification will be outlined for every
of an organisation and its processes,
certificate of analysis or conformance
product type, which will form the test
various clauses of the standards
to the product manufacturer, which
parameters for future manufactured
should be implemented. Certification
forms part of the QC verification and
batches of that particular product.
of both these standards is available
assessment of the starting materials.
One of the ways in which the QC
through various certifying bodies,
department works hand in hand with
but is not a requisite for regulatory
finished product specifications, the
the QA department is when an out-of-
R&D team together with the QC team
specification result is obtained.
compliance. CTFA can provide advice on
will develop these based on test results
A specific SOP is then referenced and
obtained from a laboratory scale-up
followed. This could result in a rework
batch as well as the validation batch
or rejection, or an exception being
and the first manufactured batch.
made depending on the nature of the
When it comes to the bulk and
These tests depend on the product
deviation. It is only the QA manager who
type and function and include, but are
can make such a decision after careful
not limited to:
consideration of all the facts.
• pH
The QC department is also responsible
• viscosity
for ensuring that test records are
• microbiological tests
kept for every batch manufactured.
• specific gravity, etc.
It works closely with the processing/
The purpose of a validation batch is to
manufacturing department, especially
ensure that the scale-up from laboratory
in terms of batch adjustments such as
development yields an acceptable
pH and colour, which may require the
product. The processing equipment,
customised addition of ingredients from
raw material additions and mixing times
batch to batch.
the applicability and implementation of these standards specific to your organisation in preparation for internal or external audits. •
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Dershana Jackison is the head of policy and regulatory affairs at CTFA. She has more than 20 years’ experience in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food industries, with specific focus on product development, quality control, quality assurance, regulatory and technical aspects.
CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za
are also verified and adjusted during
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PHARMA FOCUS // ASEPTIC PROCESSING
Containment solutions for highly-potent pharmaceuticals The need for appropriately contained processing equipment is increasing in line with the significant growth in the number of highly-potent active pharmaceutical ingredients being developed. Tom Myers, business development manager of Syntegon Technology, discusses how to keep machine operators safe from exposure during unit operations.
I
n recent decades there has been a significant increase in the number of highly potent active pharmaceutical ingredients (HPAPIs) being developed, with some analysts predicting continued growth of this sector of 10% or more in the coming years. For oral solid dosage drug product manufacturers, handling of such potent drugs can present a number of challenges, including potential cross-contamination of products being manufactured in close proximity to one another, as well as the need for increased protection of manufacturing personnel. While opinions can vary concerning what officially constitutes a highly potent active pharmaceutical ingredient, most companies consider anything that falls under an occupational exposure band (OEB) 3 or 4 to be considered potent enough to warrant special handling during manufacture. Occupational exposure limit (OEL) ranges can vary from company to company, but most often OEB 3 is represented by an exposure range of 10µg/m3 to 100µg/m3, with OEB 4 described as 1µg/m3 to 10µg/m3. Many companies further divide OEB 3 into two sub-categories, 3A and 3B, with 3B being the most potent.
"PPE should be viewed as supplementary to … appropriately contained processing equipment" 42
Did you know? The GKF 720 HiProtect provides a high containment concept for the production of potent and costly niche products, such as orphan drugs against rare diseases. This dust and water-tight machine is equipped with inflatable door-sealings and provides a controlled and monitored negative pressure in the product handling area. Accessibility can be ensured through glove ports and rapid transfer ports. Air inlet and air outlet HEPA filters are also included.
KNOW THE RISKS During potent drug-product manufacture, the potential for operator exposure in unit operations can range from very high – during the dispensing step when pure active pharmaceutical ingredients are weighed – to somewhat lower during final unit operations such as tablet compression or capsule filling, where the potent API has been diluted with various excipients to create the final blend. Nevertheless, even a dilute blend containing a potent API can present a significant health hazard, especially to personnel exposed to the manufacturing process for several hours at a time. In most cases, a variety of personal protective equipment (PPE) strategies might be employed, from outfitting personnel with the correct uniforms, protective gloves and dust masks, for less potent products, to wearing of Tyvek suits and use of powered air purifying respirators, or, in some cases, supplied air for especially potent/toxic products. Yet it should not be utilised as a first line of defence. Rather, PPE should be viewed as supplementary to the protections provided by appropriately contained processing equipment. Syntegon’s GKF 720 HiProtect capsule filler has been designed specifically for potent manufacturing operations
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
The GKF 720 ProTect offers a containment concept, ensuring protection for operators up to OEB4 product requirements
EQUIPMENT TO ENSURE MAXIMUM PROTECTION Syntegon’s ProTect and HiProTect capsule fillers have been designed specifically for potent manufacturing operations, ensuring maximum protection of manufacturing personnel, while eliminating cross contamination concerns. The modern servo-driven design means the machines run cleaner and more efficient, which translates into reduced need for operator intervention, keeping personnel safe while running products as low as OEB 4 (ProTect) and OEB 5 (HiProTect). The automatic cleaning operation ensures that personnel are not only safe during operation, but also during the cleaning process. Add to this the fact that these units can effectively be coupled with peripherals such as a capsule polisher, metal detector and check-weigher while maintaining appropriate containment. For these reasons, it is easy to see why the ProTect and HiProTect lines of capsule fillers continue to be the choice of successful pharmaceutical manufacturers around the world. • Syntegon Technology – www.syntegon.com
PHARMA FOCUS // ASEPTIC PROCESSING
X Days virtual shows continue into 2021 Marchesini Group doubles the dates for X DAYS, unveiling extraordinary new technologies for stickpack and blister packaging.
T
he initial collection of X DAYS – exclusive digital shows launched by Marchesini Group back in March – came to an end in October. The five appointments streamed to date, presenting some of the group’s most important recent technological innovations in pharmaceutical and cosmetics packaging, saw the participation of more than 2 400 individual users from over 107 countries worldwide. The success of the initiative laid the foundations for the launch of a second series of online shows, which is being supported by a re-designed graphic interface.
Following this, the show on 19 November will an original solution for filling and closing stickpacks, created through a combination of Schmucker technology and Marchesini Group’s hardware and software know-how.
The second season of X DAYS premiered on 22 October, with a focus on Valida technology, an electronic counting machine equipped with a dual counting and vision system to verify the shape, colour, height and active ingredient of the tablets, providinh total control over the counting process.
and live assistance services. The new year will begin with a demonstration of one of the group’s key technologies: machines produced by Neri, the division specialising in labelling solutions. More specifically, participants attending the 28 January 2021
KEY TECHNOLOGIES ON SHOW The 17 December event will focus on X-CARE services, Marchesini Group’s remote support services consolidated in March this year. This has enabled testing of over 50 lines in streaming as well as accelerating the customer care digitisation process thanks to the teleservice
Did you know? In South Africa, MGSA Projects is the appointed agent and local Marchesini technical service provider. Owned and managed by Myles Davis, MGSA Projects employs two Marchesini-trained technicians. session will witness the presentation of the RE 402 model for labelling glass, plastic and metal products of any shape and size. The Integra 320 robotised integrated blister line will be showcased during the final event on 18 February. This blister line includes the latest technological developments created alongside the group’s partner SEA Vision. It also includes a control system, which checks the product’s active ingredient. The range of Integra lines represent the most advanced technology on the market for blister packaging pharmaceutical products, thanks in part to extensive use of artificial intelligence to monitor and maximise production performance. •
Marchesini Group – xdays.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za
Extraordinary times need Extraordinary events
Welcome to X DAYS, a series of digital events that focus on our latest packaging innovations.
Online shows created and inspired by what we have always believed in: the extraordinary power of sharing knowledge.
Discover what’s next in the world of packaging technology, Marchesini Group invites you to an event where you can find out about the latest innovations from the packaging industry.
REGISTER NOW
xdays.marchesini.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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PHARMA FOCUS // ASEPTIC PROCESSING
How will COVID-19 accelerate vaccine development? Jim Sanford, Dr Sade Mokuolu and Peter Birch of Watson-Marlow Fluid Technology Group discuss how the biopharmaceutical community is coming together to solve the global challenge of the coronavirus pandemic. Do we have the technology, skills and resources to respond and what will this mean for vaccine development in the future?
"For these vaccines to be available at scale, they will need to be produced in numerous locations worldwide” 44
D
eveloping vaccines is crucial to combating existing and novel diseases. A World Health
Organization (WHO) report based on 2013 data found that immunisation averts two to three million deaths every year in all age ranges worldwide. Vaccines must be produced in large batches, at a low cost per dose to offer broad and effective protection. From drug discovery to biomanufacturing, technology innovation continues to thrive with advancements in process intensification, cost reduction and risk mitigation initiatives. Gavi, the Global Vaccine Alliance, estimates that the costs for producing hundreds of millions of doses of a COVID-19 vaccine would run into $50 million for those companies that already have facilities and $700 million for those who are opening new facilities. The alliance has already re-allocated $200 million in funds as an immediate response to this crisis. As COVID-19 continues to affect communities throughout the world, there is collective hope that a vaccine can be developed, and subsequently manufactured. With over 100 COVID-19 vaccine candidates in research stages and others in promising clinical trials, it seems likely that a vaccine will be developed. But is the biggest challenge still to come? Once a vaccine is proved safe and effective, how will the industry mass produce these vaccines to such a demanding schedule on a global scale?
ACCELERATION STARTS WITH RESEARCH We’ve already seen research and development (R&D) on an unprecedented
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Did you know? Vaccine production is big business. The WHO reported that from 2000 to 2013, the market grew from $4 billion to $24 billion and, pre-COVID-19 predictions, it estimated that the market would be worth $100 billion by 2025.
scale. Processes that would usually haven taken years have been accelerated to just months as researchers use existing platform technology to expedite development, with some level of assurance of efficacy and safety extrapolated from other trials. Now it’s time to take this approach into the manufacturing space. While R&D teams focus on using their skills and understanding to create a therapy, the link between researchers and the manufacturing process has never been so important. In recent years, vaccine production has moved to a continuous bioprocessing model and we’ve seen process intensification on a scale-out, rather than a scale-up basis. Put simply, the bioprocessing equipment used in research stages can now be carried through to mass production. When time is short, process design engineers and researchers need to work together to ensure that the vaccine can be replicated reliably at scale for clinical trials and then again at an even greater scale for mass production. Production won’t take place in just one location; multiple vaccine manufacturers will need to support product demand. For these vaccines to be available at scale, they will need to be produced in numerous locations worldwide. Processes and equipment need to be standardised and this activity needs to start at the R&D
PHARMA FOCUS // ASEPTIC PROCESSING
stage. Each bio-container, clamp and tube assembly need to have an equivalent for use at scale. Never has research been so focused on a singular, tangible goal. Although there is a fascinating exploration into novel vaccine technologies, the current requirement is for tried-and-tested techniques, performed and understood by skilled teams. Manufacturers, such as Watson-Marlow Fluid Technology Group (WMFTG), have a role to play in this process. Our teams help form a link between R&D and process engineer groups and we assist in ensuring our equipment is used appropriately in the different stages of vaccine development. Scalable versions are manufactured using the same materials and processes, reducing additional validation steps and accelerating the progression from bench to production.
REPRODUCIBILITY OPENS THE BLACK BOX Single-use bioprocessing systems enable regional production on a global scale. Biopharmaceuticals and their contract manufacturing organisations (CMOs) are already creating vaccine production hubs on an extraordinary scale using single-use technology, which delivers drug product consistency. Once manufacturing systems and fluid pathways are tried and tested, and can demonstrate a safe and efficacious vaccine, this system has the opportunity to be replicated anywhere in the world. The process becomes the most important proof of safety and efficacy. Vaccines produced in the millions can’t all be tested and bioprocessing, in its very nature, is subject to the behaviour of individual cells and the black box of molecular interactions. Yet the process can be controlled and replicated assuredly. Suppliers of biological manufacturers continue to design innovative bioprocessing systems that deliver reproducibility, in addition to process flexibility, cost control, risk mitigation, security of supply and sustainability. Equipment versatility also plays a role. The Quantum 600 from WMFTG delivers low-shear and low-pressure pumping specifically for downstream process steps, and the complete portfolio of scalable peristaltic pumps helps to increase yields. Using multiples of the same model reduces risk, cuts the list of inventories needed for each manufacturing location and minimises the number of consumable parts.
Fewer processes also mean quicker upskilling for operators.
OUTSOURCING QUALITY FOR REGULATORY APPROVAL §By using tried-andtested bioprocessing technology, biopharmaceutical companies can increase production by outsourcing to CMOs. But outsourcing doesn’t stop with production, it can extend to quality too. Equipment validation is crucial in an effective bioprocessing pathway. To ensure the highest quality, the process must demonstrate reproducibility and safety. To do this, each piece of equipment needs to be qualified and validated. WMFTG works with its customers to provide robust validation documentation for every piece of equipment. Tubing such as PureWeld XL is stress tested to failure, demonstrating a clear and safe operating range, with low spallation and supported with extractables. Single-use components that demonstrate exceptional life and accurate flow rates with excellent chemical resistance provide confidence during drug manufacturing. Qualification of components such as PureWeld XL is crucial when validating manufacturing processes for regulatory approval. Critical process parameters can be established and, as long as the vaccine is produced within these parameters, biopharmaceuticals and regulatory bodies can be assured of safety and consistent reproducibility. When the process is verified and validated, quality is built-in by design.
SINGLE-USE TECH HOLDS THE KEY Single-use technology has increased the regionalisation of drug manufacturing. Drug products like vaccines are more likely to be manufactured in the regions where they are required, providing more costeffective products without the reduction of efficacy caused by potential logistics issues impacting product quality. In these new regional facilities, flexibility of production spaces is key. As such the ‘ballroom concept’ and other manufacturing techniques can be employed to give highly functional multiple product facilities. The ‘ballroom concept’ of manufacturing can use non-classified spaces because of the
integrity of sterile, single-use bioprocessing equipment. With this approach, developing nations can access the same manufacturing techniques as those in the USA, Western Europe and China. Process validation can be largely location independent, assuming that the conditions of the manufacturing protocols are met. A ‘shopping list’ of single-use equipment and consumable parts can be sourced locally through manufacturer distribution and supply networks. Skilled staff can be employed locally and trained to ensure safe and compliant production.
SCALING OUT AND SPREADING DEMAND Before the pandemic, biopharmaceuticals were already focused on capacity. In 2019, the BioPlan Associates 16th Annual Report and Survey of Biopharmaceutical Manufacturing Capacity and Production asked this question: “If this industry is to avoid significant capacity constraints, the most important areas to be addressed are…” There were marked differences between the US and Western European responses with 42.2% of Western European responses focused on developing better downstream purification technology, versus 28% of US responses. 45% of US respondents would develop better continuous processing technology versus 33.3% of Western Europeans and both groups saw new single-use facilities as important with 40% Western European and 35.5% US respondents highlighting this choice. COVID-19 has amplified this need – capacity is now under strain and the scale of this production effort must not be underestimated. In order to produce the billions of vaccines needed to fight the pandemic, there will be a huge demand for materials. Producing enough drug product doesn’t matter if the delivery devices aren’t there. To meet the requirement for all aspects of vaccine production, we will likely see innovative resource reallocation and pioneers from other industries lending a hand, just as we did with Dyson ventilators
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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PHARMA FOCUS // ASEPTIC PROCESSING
and the pop-up 3D printing firms making face shields for frontline health workers. The many and diverse vaccines entering the COVID-19 race can only be a good thing. No one biopharmaceutical or research institution can manage worldwide production of a single vaccine. There are likely to be multiple winners in this race and through collaboration with different CMOs and suppliers. Although the WHO planned for a coordinated effort, success will be seen in the smaller collaborations formed between industry leaders in their areas of expertise.
greater development in these areas. But most of all, collaboration will be the lasting reminder from this crisis. Biopharmaceuticals, CMOs and suppliers – including competitors – have come together with a common purpose. We will have cost-effective COVID-19 vaccines and we will have them soon. As we move towards a challenging future, an ageing population requiring a diverse range of medication, the push towards personalised medicine and a more likely emergence of other novel viruses and future pandemics, we stand firm in the knowledge that we can meet
WILL A UK VACCINE BE BORN OUT OF COLLABORATION We’re already seeing organisations use their collective brainpower and experience to tackle COVID-19. Collaborations include academic institutions, big pharma and smaller biotechs and CROs such as GSK and Sanofi, AstraZeneca and Oxford University, and Merck and IAVI with promising earlystage results as vaccines reach clinical trials. Tony Hitchcock, technical director, Cobra Biologics explains how collaboration is driving this development: “Cobra Biologics’ background is traditionally in gene therapy. Our experience in working with viral vectors lends a particular strength to vaccine manufacturing. Although vaccines have been universal in responding to endemic diseases, COVID-19 is a completely new scenario. “What’s powerful about several of these vaccine approaches is the use of wellestablished technology and processes to expedite the development. The vaccine development timeline has already been reduced from five years to four months by utilising existing platform technologies such as the chimpanzee adenovirus platform established more than 15 years ago. Although these vaccines couldn’t enter clinical trials as the levels of infection dropped, we already have important dosage and efficacy data as the technology was tried, tested and approved for use in vaccine development.
SETTING THE SCENE FOR ENHANCED DEVELOPMENT Science is an evolution. Just as we’ve used learnings from SARS and MERS vaccines to fight this pandemic, so too will we learn from COVID-19 vaccine development. The advancements to accelerate vaccine production, intensify processes and scaleout production will set the scene for even
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these challenges with a blend of innovation and established solutions. • References are available on request and could not be published due to space constraints.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Sade Mokuolu is global regulatory and validation services manager at WMFTG. Peter Birch is global business development manager for biopharmaceutical equipment at WMFTG. Jim Sanford is the strategic marketing and business development for bioprocess at WMFTG.
WMFTG - www.watson-marlow.com
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Creating creativity in the work environment
Many companies in the world today either claim or aspire to be a creative organisation – an attribute that will ensure the maintenance of a competitive edge in an ever more crowded, globally competitive business environment. Yet the question remains – what is creativity and how can it be measured? John Knowlton of Cosmetic Solutions provided answers to this during a Coschem webinar hosted on 22 October.
V
ery often the creativity of an organisation is measured by the talent of the people it employs and whilst this is a critical factor it is not the only one, as Knowlton demonstrated during the Coschem webinar. “People can only be creative, if the environment in which they work allows them to,” explained Knowlton. The achievement of this is linked inextricably to the culture of the company concerned. Knowlton continued by referring to research conducted by Swedish industrial psychologist, Goran Ekvall, who in the late 1980s studied the culture of some of the world’s most successful companies and, as a result of this research, developed the nine dimensions of a creative working environment, which essentially define the characteristics of a business culture in which highly talented people will perform at their very best.
THE CENTRAL ROLE OF RESOURCES The first three dimensions of ‘challenge’, ‘idea time’ and ‘idea support’ are strongly linked to the resources that are made available by an organisation to create a creative working environment. These dimensions are defined by the concepts of how challenged employees feel whilst performing their duties and how much time they are given to think things through before having to act? Another important factor is the availability of resources to evaluate new ideas, albeit with the knowledge that they will not always be successful.
PERSONAL MOTIVATION IS A MUST The second group of dimensions – ‘trust/ openness’, ‘playfulness/humour’ and ‘absence of conflicts’ – focusses on personal motivation, something which is sadly missing from the culture of so many businesses today. Personal motivation can only be created
John Knowlton is a cosmetic chemist and the founder of Cosmetic Solutions, which provides a one-stop solution for the development and marketing of cosmetics products
by making sure that employees enjoy their working environments and feel free to voice opinions about the activities of the business, without any fear of retribution. Relationships with co-employees are also an essential consideration and the culture of a creative organisation encourages cooperative engagement, without conflict.
FREEDOM TO EXPLORE NEW THINGS The final group of dimensions – ‘freedom’, ‘debates’ and ‘risk taking’ – is associated with the culture of exploration and a desire to do things differently. Do employees feel free to perform their duties in the way that they wish to and are lively debates encouraged in the workplace? A vital element in the creation of an explorative culture is the understanding that risks can be taken, even when a successful outcome cannot be guaranteed.
"People can only be creative, if the environment in which they work allows them to” AN INTERACTIVE SESSION Webinar attendees were also invited to rate their own organisations through the use of a simple nine-point questionnaire. Knowlton brought the very interesting webinar to conclusion by providing some highly useful guidelines on how to create a creative working environment through the allocation of necessary resources and the implementation of employee-orientated cultural changes, which have been well established to improve the creativity of the business overall. •
For more information on Coschem’s upcoming virtual events, please send an email to bridget@coschem.co.za.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
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ASSOCIATION NEWS
SA recycled 503 600t of plastics waste in 2019 Plastics|SA, the umbrella body representing the entire South African plastics industry, has just released the plastics recycling figures for the year ending December 2019. The figures reveal that 503 600t of plastics waste was collected for recycling. Of this, more than half was packaging – giving South Africa an input recycling rate of 45.7%.
A
ccording to Anton Hanekom, Plastics|SA’s executive director, a detailed survey into the state of the country’s plastics recycling industry is conducted annually by Annabé Pretorius of Plastix 911 – an independent consultant who has an unsurpassable knowledge of the industry and has formed a wide network of recyclers with whom she conducts one-on-one interviews. “The collection, documentation and publication of updated and detailed data regarding the amounts of plastics that were produced, processed and recycled in South Africa provides us with an important instrument to gauge the growth and development of the industry. It goes without saying that end-of-life solutions for plastics waste are an important focus for us. In order to get an accurate assessment, Pretorius interviewed the 288 plastic recyclers who were operating in South Africa at the end of 2019,” Hanekom explains.
INPUT VERSUS OUTPUT There are various ways in which recycling figures can be analysed. Some researchers prefer input recycling – which measures the tonnage of recyclables collected for recycling. Others advocate for the use of output recycling figures, i.e. the actual amount of material that was processed and sold as new raw material, after the
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The recycling of plastics in 2019 created 58 750 income opportunities, which includes those of waste pickers and employees of smaller entrepreneurial collectors
recycling process, for the purpose of understanding material flow. “The debate over input versus output is a very old one. Both ways of measuring have their advantages and disadvantages. In Europe, they prefer calculating the percentage of collected waste that is sent away for recycling, i.e. input recycling. Because we are often compared with Europe, the Department of Environment, Forestry and Fisheries (DEFF) agreed that it makes sense for us to follow the same methodology as our European counterparts when reporting on the recycling rate of plastics, paper, glass and cans,” says Hanekom. The amount of plastics recycled back into raw material was the equivalent of
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24 million 2ℓ milk bottles every day. A total of 244 300t of CO2 were saved – the equivalent emissions of 51 000 cars in the same year. “Considering the economic downturn that was experienced, the rising cost of electricity, the impact of load-shedding and other deterring factors, this is still a terrific accomplishment of which we can be proud,” he comments.
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Did you know? According to Plastics|SA, 119 000t of quality recycled plastics were used to manufacture new packaging items such as detergent bottles.
LOCAL PRODUCTION DOWN, BUT RECYCLING IS UP In 2019, South Africa converted 1 842 745t of polymer (locally-produced, imported and recycled) into plastics products. This was a decrease of 1.8% from the previous year. What is encouraging, however, is that recycled content made up 18% of these locallyconverted polymers. South Africa converted 337 745t of recycled material into new products. Although only a 0.1% improvement on the 2018 figures, it does not accurately reflect the bigger emphasis we have seen being placed on recycling and the growing awareness amongst government, industry and civil society. Instead, it is a reflection of the economic challenges the manufacturing industry experienced in general.
RECYCLED PLASTIC IN PACKAGING ON THE UP
caps, and food packaging. As soon as the demand increases for high-quality recyclate, recyclers can invest in sorting and recycling capabilities. The increased demand will spiral down the complete value chain with benefits for all, ultimately resulting in less plastic in the environment and higher recycling rates.
South Africa’s plastics industry continues to be dominated by the packaging industry, which accounts for 49% of the local market. It is encouraging to see the growing number of brand owners who are committed to including recycled content in their packaging. Thanks to this growing end-market, 119 000t of recycled plastics were used in 2019 to manufacture new rigid and flexible packaging items. Recycled flexible packaging was the largest market for recyclate, with 24% of all recycled materials finding a market in shopping bags, refuse bags and general flexible packaging.
ECONOMIC SUPPORT AND CREATING EMPLOYMENT
INCREASE RECYCLED CONTENT IN PACKAGING
More than 70% of all the recyclable plastic collected in 2019 came from landfill and other post-consumer sources. Thanks to these successful collection and recycling operations, 2.2% less plastic waste ended up in landfill. However, these valuable materials are extracted at a high cost to the recyclers, who have to wash the contaminated material; and to the waste pickers themselves, who put their lives and health
The basic economic principle of supply and demand will drive recycling rates upwards when potential buyers (converters, brand owners and retailers) commit to using recycled plastics. Recyclers have proven that recycled plastics can be (and are being) used in containers, bottles, closures, jars and
In 2019, the recycling of plastic made a direct contribution of 2.3% to South Africa’s GDP and an 18.5% contribution to the manufacturing GDP. R2 065 billion was injected into the informal sector through the purchase of recyclable plastics waste. A total of 58 750 income opportunities were created – which include waste pickers and employees of the smaller entrepreneurial collectors.
INCREASED NEED FOR SEPARATION-AT-SOURCE
at risk. South Africa needs to follow the example of other developed countries where the necessary infrastructure has been put in place to get the recyclables out of the waste stream as early as possible.
DECLARING WAR ON PLASTIC WASTE “Plastics help to reduce transportation costs, prevent breakage, extend shelf life and make modern life more convenient. A world without plastic is almost unimaginable. What we all want to see, however, is a world free of plastic litter. For this reason, the South African plastics industry has declared a war on waste. As part of our commitment to finding sustainable solutions that will work for our unique South African context, in 2019 Plastics|SA helped form the South African Initiative to End Plastic Pollution in the Environment. With this initiative, the plastics industry is joining forces with government, retailers, brand owners and other interest groups to prevent and ultimately put a stop to plastic pollution spilling over into our streets, rivers and oceans. However, even our best efforts will be futile if we don’t have the support of the general public and the commitment of every South African to be a responsible user and recycler of plastic. Only by working together will we truly begin to make a lasting change,” Hanekom concludes. •
Plastics|SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za
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Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
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