5 minute read
Formulations to amplify self-care in 2022
Mindfulness and beauty have become entwined. As the self-care trend that everyone is trying, nurturing their beauty needs gives consumers comfort and a sense of wellbeing during a time when needed most. Karen Maier of Merck South Africa explores new product development ideas to create innovative skin and body care products centred on the concept of at-home spa rituals.
The foundation of wellness as we know it today was laid millennia ago in ancient India and China with Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine. In the 1950s and 1960s, like-minded doctors and scientists in the US revisited these concepts, however, the idea only really gained traction over the past 20 years.
Now, with the coronavirus pandemic, the concept of wellness and the art of self-care have been brought to the fore as people are increasingly stressed and have been unable to visit their favourite spa or wellness centre during lockdown. Working from home, blurring of the lines between our professional and private lives, and the stress of the uncertainty of these times have caused consumers to turn to self-care as a form of therapy and way to relax.
At-home spa rituals have become mainstream and consumers now expect more from their beauty products, demanding innovation to make the experience more enjoyable.
The sensory experience has become paramount, resulting in new concepts and formats becoming highly desired in the beauty category.
Did you know?
According to a study by Ogilvy, 41% of consumers say wellness claims sound believable and 80% want more wellness, and 75% say brands don’t offer enough wellness.
Textures, formats and ingredients
Food-inspired textures like jellies and gels are particularly popular. These feel fresh on skin and are easy to apply. Transforming textures, such as gel-to-milk, cream-to-water or powder-to-water, add an element of surprise to the home-spa rituals. A sensation of luxury is also high on the list of demands; products should glide onto skin with a soft, velvety touch.
Interesting formats matter because they create a sense of curiosity and enhance the beauty mood. There are many options for innovation – choose from spray-on formats such as serum mists, sprayable face masks and body sprays; or waterless formats that offer a wide range of possibilities for sustainable products. Concentrated active formulations and spa-like textures are additional options, as well as DIY concepts. These involve consumers in creating or customising products for themselves, adding to the sense of self-care and feeling of wellbeing while satisfying a curious mind.
Ingredients matter, too – effective ingredients backed by science also play a major role in the self-care trend. Nature-based and nature-inspired ingredients, vitamins and minerals, or ingredients with immediate visual benefits are favoured. Fragrances that support aromatherapy claims also stand out. Formulators should take note that products that enhance relaxation while providing functional beauty benefits will ultimately be successful.
Ultimate home-spa formulations
The first, but very crucial step, in a home-spa ritual, is cleansing. Innovative formulas that add a sense of fun, pique curiosity and add to an overall feeling of wellbeing are the way to go. A prime example is a natural gel-to-milk formulation based on a transforming texture, i.e. when water is added the gel turns into a milk (see Table 1). By adding natural actives such as RonaCare Ectoin and Bisabolol, the product may offer very gentle yet effective support to the skin.
Next comes a mask, which is still very much on-trend. Claims such as moisturising, brightening and detoxifying remain extremely popular for facial masks. Different generations apply masks for different reasons. Gen Z users are huge fans, sharing their experiences on social media as they explore various beauty routines. Consumers who are older crave hydration, firming and even skin tone benefits. It’s not surprising men are also turning to masks to up their skin care game. Presenting a mask in an unusual way such as a “touchless” stick mask, or a DIY peel-off format, is sure to appeal to home-spa aficionados.
The list of active ingredients which can be included in masks is almost endless. RonaCare AP, which protects sebum components of the skin leading to anti-seborrheic and anti-inflammatory activity, is a great addition to a clay mask (see Table 2). RonaCare Luremin, a nature-identical active that improves skin elasticity and moisture, can be used in an overnight sleep mask, a rich composition hidden in a light gel texture.
Ronaflair Functional Fillers are another great addition to face mask formulations. The range includes oil-absorbing and mattifying options, and texture-improving products such as Ronaflair Satin, which enhances the silky and velvety texture of a mask; or Boroneige SF-3, which promotes a pleasant skin feel. After indulging in a mask, the next step is to apply a face cream. With the soothing skin ice cream, one essentially builds on the foundation laid by the mask, as this product literally melts on the skin to pamper and soothe even the most demanding skin, leaving it radiant and ready for a busy day. This interesting texture can be paired with several active ingredients such as RonaCare Balmance, a skin comfort stabiliser, to reduce redness and itchiness; RonaCare CP-5, a unique cyclic peptide that counteracts fine lines and wrinkles with absolute precision; or RonaCare Allantoin, which offers rebuilding, smoothing and moisturising properties.
On-trend body sprays
Self-care efforts don’t stop at the face, extending to body care products which have become firmly entrenched in the home-spa routine. Consumers want body products based on scientifically-proven ingredients, taking inspiration from facial care when choosing their products. As a result, body masks, scrubs, serums and body oils are all on-trend.
Body sprays are highly desirable right now – these products are popular because they are contactless, which is a perfect trait for the pandemic. Body sprays are also very light, easily and quickly absorbed, and do not leave a sticky residue on the skin (see Table 3).
While mostly everyone uses body lotion, not all body lotions are infused with luxury conveyed through premium actives added to the formulation. For example, RonaCare RenouMer, a marine-based beauty active, stimulates collagen synthesis, enabling a superior redensifying effect, which ensures firm skin on the body and not just on the face and neck.
Beauty consumers are taking pampering seriously, and market research shows that as an industry this is the right thing to do. It is time to find novel formulations, textures and formats that pamper, repair and protect skin while entertaining consumers, ultimately ensuring they keep coming back for more. •
