October 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 10
www.pharmacos.co.za
Enhancing skin care
with pure, organic ingredients
Dressing up skin care for the future Strong growth for local pharmaceutical producers Maintain quality standards
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• Eight beauty and personal care experts in one inspiring day • One unmissable session on marketing a beauty brand in 2018 Other topics to be presented at the conference: · R&D, creativity and innovation · The dos and don’ts of E-commerce · How to keep your product in business? · Regulations and legislation Date: Thursday, 22 February 2018 Time: 8:30am until 16:00 Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa Early bird Tickets Released! Book before 31 October and save! Early bird special: R 795 per person including VAT Tickets booked after 31 October: R995 per person including VAT You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers. Send an email to Natalie.DaSilva@newmediapub.co.za for more information
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
October 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 10
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
New non-animal test methods in development
HPA appoints first ever female chairperson
Achieve an even complexion with Symbright
14 SKIN CARE
A teacher and learners from Ramaahlo Primary School, Botanica’s benefit sharing partner
Changing the approach with pre/probiotics
NWU launches new toxicity testing facility
Improve skin health with hydroxyapatite
A look at Avroy Shlain’s seamless end-to-end supply chain
Beauty boosting superfood ingredients from Lipotec
Evonik’s innovative sensory concepts
23 QUALITY CONTROL
South African-developed Goldilux light meters
Parmetol MBX for microbial quality management
Robotic automation from Omron
It is the only vitamin K2 to meet the USP and TGA standard requirements
12
34
28 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: MADE IN SA
MJ Labs celebrates its heritage
Setting the quality standard for vitamin K2
Adcock Ingram pursues value-adding acquisitions
37 AEROSOLS
29
One of the tablet presses at MJ Labs
Recommendations to overcome valve blocking
40 SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING
Fighting flab with Delipidol and B-shape
Proven anti-cellulite effects of ShapePerfection
43 46 Glass Packaging A clearer perspective for pharma and cosmetics
46 Marsing has been successfully supplying the African pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetics and health care industries for more than 20 years.
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS Highlights from the Coschem conference
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
For the love of healthy skin
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za
S
Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za
kin care is the biggest segment
is MJ Labs, which recently secured its
of the beauty industry with Forbes
GMP license from the Medicines Control
forecasting global skin care sales
Council. In celebration of its achievement
to cross the US$130 billion mark by
and the company’s phenomenal growth,
Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Jean-François Molina, Kim MacCallum, Raquel Delgado, Rosalía Mantilla, Sylesh Venkataraman ADVERTISING
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za
2019. It’s important to know what trends are
an extensive company focus on MJ Labs is
Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za
driving the segment to guarantee your slice
featured on page 28.
INTERNATIONAL SALES
of this lucrative pie. Probiotic ingredients, superfoods for the
Ingredients for skin firming lotions, tightening tonics and body smoothing
skin and products with interesting textures
creams are highlighted in the slimming and
that enhance the consumer’s experience
body contouring feature on page 40. The
are three of the biggest trends. Each of
focus is on all-natural ingredients sourced
these is featured in the skin care feature on
from seaweed and chilies, which promise to
page 14 in this edition of Pharmaceutical
tighten up consumers from head to toe. In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW
Cosmetic Review. We also have the scoop
on North-West University’s new toxicity testing
section on page 43, Aarifah Nosarka
facility and take an inside look at how
looks at the latest developments in glass
Avroy Shlain continues to achieve supply
packaging for the pharmaceutical and
chain excellence.
cosmetics industries. She also introduces
The quality control feature on page 23 is
readers to the panel of judges for the 2017
a must read if you are looking to improve
Gold Pack Awards and reveals the name
quality management practices within your
change and new branding for
laboratory or manufacturing facility. Some
the Polystyrene Association
of the solutions discussed include light
of South Africa.
meters for laboratories and a two-in-one in-can preservative that eliminates the risk of
I hope you enjoy the read!
microbial contamination.
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
While there has been a decline in the number of multinational pharmaceutical
MANAGING DIRECTOR
manufacturers in South Africa over the
Aileen Lamb
last few years, we’re noticing an increase
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
in contract manufacturers and packers
Bridget McCarney
equipped to meet the needs of this highly
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
regulated industry. One such manufacturer
John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
HEAD OFFICE
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
John Knowlton Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.
CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers
Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers
4
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.
Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028
NEWS
Overcoming the need to reference
animal test data
ASPEN ASSISTS
KNYSNA FIRE VICTIMS THE RECENT DEVASTATING fires in Knysna and surrounds
A COLLABORATIVE PROJECT between UK-based non-
caused widespread damage
animal testing laboratory, XCellR8, and dermatological
and loss to residents from all
testing organisation, Cutest, has been launched, thanks to a
walks of life, but none more so
substantial grant by Innovate UK.
desperate than patients who
The aim of the project is to take the first steps to establishing
lost their chronic medication.
reliable correlations between in vitro and in vivo predicative
This placed a huge burden of
irritation testing, to eliminate the need to refer to historical and
primary health care work at
often unreliable animal test data. This is an exciting opportunity
clinic level where staff struggled
to develop innovative methods to provide enhanced consumer
to cope.
protection through being able to predict potential irritancy from topically applied ingredients and products.
Aspen stepped up to the plate, funding six postbasic pharmacist assistants (PABA) to relieve the
Front row: Geraldine Turner (Knysna Hospital), Annezette Louwrens (PABA), Lourencia Frans (PABA), Jackie Tau (Aspen Pharmacare) and Dr Earle du Plooy (Knysna Provincial Hospital) with Ruda Kotze (PABA), Jerome Fillies (PABA), Sinethemba Sobuz (PABA) and Xolani Ndedwa (PABA) in the back row
An important part of the application to Innovate UK was the
pressure, distributing chronic parcels and helping
support expressed by several leading personal care brands and
sisters with dispensing prescriptions. Four clinics
retailers to the objective of developing new predictive safety
and two CDCs benefitted from their professional
Staff members at the clinics were highly
testing methodologies that further remove the need to refer to
assistance at Hornlee Clinic, Khayalethu Clinic,
impressed with the professionalism and self-
historical animal testing. The two-year research programme
Sedgefield Clinic, Knysna Town Clinic, Knysna CDC
sacrificial commitment of the Aspen team. Sr
started on 1 August and is seeking to determine the correlation
and Kwanokuthula CDC.
Companie at Keurhoek Clinic commented: ‘No one
between human in vitro and in vivo data, using a panel of
Dr H Schumann, district manager for Eden/
is more cherished in this world than someone who
carefully selected reference materials to improve the sensitivity
Central Karoo in the Western Cape Department
and predictive capacity of skin irritation tests. Stewart Long,
of Health had this to say of Aspen’s ready
CEO of Cutest Systems says: ‘We are very excited to be awarded
support: ‘The amazing contribution from Aspen to
Provincial Hospital teams, Stavros Nicolaou, senior
this significant research grant from Innovate UK to undertake
support the Knysna Health services and Knysna/
executive, strategic trade development, said: ‘We
this important work. We feel that the 30 years of in vivo irritation
Bitou communities, which experienced great
felt privileged to be in a position where we could
testing and published research by Cutest, combined with
losses in various forms during the recent fires, is
extend a helping hand to those affected by the
the state of the art in vitro testing and research that XCellR8
much appreciated.’
fires that ravaged parts of the Garden Route. We
undertakes, makes this a powerful research collaboration with two leading and complementary companies.’
lightens the burden of another. Thank you Aspen.’ Commenting on the response from the Knysna
The pharmacist assistants’ work varied greatly,
are moved and humbled by the way in which our
from checking expiry dates, emergency trolleys
team was received and the appreciation expressed
and stock cards to filling up cupboards and
by the community of Knysna. It is a glowing tribute
latest funding from Innovate UK means we can continue to
assisting with chronic medication, keeping records
to the spirit that truly characterises us as South
expand our research and development capabilities, which
and ensuring all processes and procedures were
Africans – when the chips are down, we stand
puts us at the leading edge of developing new, non-animal
followed effectively.
together and help one another.’
Dr Carol Treasure, founder and MD of XCellR8, adds: ‘The
testing methods for the cosmetics industry. Many of our clients have expressed frustration with the unreliability of existing grant will allow companies to take a leap forward in accurately
NEW ENGINEERING HEAD FOR ACG
establishing how ingredients may or may not irritate the skin
THE GLOBAL SUPPLIER of integrated
prior to human volunteer trials, thus speeding up the process of
manufacturing solutions for leading
the success and profitability of the
bringing products to market.’
pharmaceuticals and nutraceutical
companies he has been associated
animal test data and its lack of relevance for humans. This
This research on developing new non-animal testing methods is essential in helping brand owners comply with the EU Cosmetics Regulation
and has significantly contributed to
companies, has hired Richard
with. I welcome Richard to ACG
Stedman as group CEO for its
and look forward to his guidance
engineering business units. ACG
and counsel.’
serves customers in 100 countries
Stedman adds: ‘ACG is a global
through its network of 15 global manufacturing facilities. In his role as group CEO, Stedman
supplier for pharmaceutical solutions Richard Stedman
will manage the entire engineering
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
base and superior quality engineering solutions. The opportunity is to
business that includes products and solutions for
leverage the breadth and capability of the ACG
granulation, capsule filling, tablet presses, tablet
engineering companies to provide enhanced
coating, blister packing and cartoning.
solutions for our customers.’
Karan Singh, MD of ACG, comments: ‘I am
6
and products, with a loyal customer
A seasoned executive with extensive
extremely pleased to have Richard as part of
experience across multidisciplinary functions,
my leadership team at ACG. He has invaluable
Stedman will be based at the ACG offices in
experience in managing engineering businesses
Kandivali, Mumbai.
NEWS
HPA WELCOMES FIRST
WOMAN CHAIRPERSON THE HEALTH PRODUCTS Association (HPA) is proud to announce the election of Maria Ascencao as its new
FIRST-EVER AUTOMATEDBRIEFING PROGRAMME FOR DRIVERS IMPERIAL LOGISTICS HAS achieved a first in the African transport industry with the
chairperson. An executive
launch of an automated-briefing system for drivers.
member of the HPA since 1996,
‘This ground-breaking initiative is reducing the operational risk in Imperial’s
Ascencao is the first woman at
operations, while expanding employees’ exposure to the latest industry technology.
helm since the Association’s
It also provides then with opportunities for growth and development,’ states chief
inception in 1976.
strategy officer, Cobus Rossouw.
‘I extend sincerest thanks
Tanker Services, a division of Imperial Logistics, is rolling out the automated-
and appreciation to my fellow
briefing programme across all its operations. Already running with great success
members of the executive
The South African Journal of Natural Medicine voted Maria Ascencao one of the top 10 contributors to the South African health industry
council of the Health Products Association, who have elected me chairperson. I’m humbled and honoured that they
in Tanker Services’ Fuel & Gas division, this pioneering project consists of a comprehensive system on which every driver’s personal and professional information is stored – from driving certificates, licenses and training updates to driver ratings, incident reports, medical details and chronic medication. Self-briefing
have entrusted me with this
and education to the highest
‘kiosks’, much like the self-service check-in counters at airports, have been installed
responsibility,’ says Ascencao.
standards of products and
at Imperial’s sites for drivers to access the self-briefing portal. ‘Where drivers would
Ascencao has dedicated
services, and to find a new
previously interface with a controller, they now clock into the self-service portal and
over 30 years to the field of
approach to effectively
brief themselves on the system,’ Rossouw explains.
natural health and wellness,
communicate the benefits
and has been acknowledged
and strengths of the industry
the driver to clock in unless he has had the required 12 hours’ rest. If he is taking
as a pioneer of utmost integrity.
within the wellness paradigm,’
chronic medication for a condition like diabetes, for example, it will ask the driver
Her work has been recognised
she states.
questions to ensure that he has taken his medication.’
CAMs and health
by her global business
Developed by Imperial, this system is a transport industry first. ‘It will not allow
This biometric system is operated with the driver’s fingerprints, and Rossouw
partners, leading South African
supplement companies are a
reports that Imperial has found staff are more willing to declare facts and answer
retailers and the media.
crucial part of South Africa’s
questions during the self-briefing session than they might be when sitting face-to-
economy. Ascencao says
face with a supervisor. ‘If a driver has forgotten to take his medication, it is easier
on behalf of the HPA and
the industry provides jobs
for him to be open with the self-briefing portal. An issue like this would be flagged,
its members to promote
and opportunities, and gives
the driver would have a session with a controller and the problem can be quickly
positive communications
consumers the freedom to
and easily remedied.’
and public relations, training
make educated choices to
‘I’m excited to begin work
The HPA 2017/18 executive council • Chairperson: Maria Ascnecao (Coyne Healthcare) •H onorary president: Bruce Dennison (Ex-Officio) (Natural Products Strategic Advice) • Executive secretary: Deirdre Allen • Treasurer: Norman Fels (Sports Health & Fitness) • Regulatory and technical director: Wayne Robinson (Azochem) • Legal consultant: Howard Snoyman • Technical and regulatory consultant: Janet Welham (Saige Marketing) • Regulatory consultant: Celecia Pleass
For drivers, the system is providing them with computer skills and boosting their
achieve better
self-esteem. ‘Our drivers are very proud to be able to tell their family members that
health.
they are now using computers at work.’
‘We will continue the
The same system and kiosks are also being used for post-trip driver debriefing by Imperial, with great success.
good work of effectively representing the interests of the SA natural health and CAMs industry at all levels of the legislative, regulatory and
Committee members
Parliamentary
• Michelle Body (Adcock Ingram)
while working
processes,
• Allen Frank (Amway)
proactively
• Pravashini Govender (Herbalife Nutrition)
with other
• Samantha Jordaan (Ascendis Health)
industry
• Rudi Martins (Vital Health Foods)
associations
• Steve Parker (Good Health Products)
to achieve
• Rachel Wrigglesworth/Erika Zaier (Clicks)
this,’ she concludes.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
7
NEWS
HYGIENIC PHARMA SIEVE INSTALLED AT SRI KRISHNA
New patents for
SABINSA’s
SRI KRISHNA
Therefore, we required
cosmetics division
PHARMACEUTICALS
sieving equipment capable
is an established
of achieving exceptional
manufacturer of
quality standards, as well
SABINSA COSMETICS, A division of the Sami Labs –
pharmaceutical products
as high production rates.
Sabinsa Group, has been granted two new patents on
such as paracetamol,
Russell Finex was very
novel cosmetics compositions, both developed from
folic acid, domperidone
helpful in acknowledging
extensive research on combinations of the company’s
and furosemide,
our requirements
branded ingredients. These most recent patents are likely
supplying more than 150
and identifying a
to fuel the company’s rapid growth in the cosmetics
niche drugs to the Asian
suitable solution.’
industry given the high demand for sunscreen lotions and
pharmaceutical market, in
hair growth formulations.
South Africa, Europe and
of sieving active
Due to the nature
the USA. The company
pharmaceutical ingredients
composition comprising of β – glucogallin (1-O-galloyl-
is represented locally by
(APIs), mesh blinding can
β-D-glucose) or β – glucogallin and total gallates from
Siyeza Fine Chemicals.
often be experienced
When expanding
when screening these
United States patent US9498423 describes a synergistic
Amla (Saberry), concentrate of liquid endosperm of Cocos nucifera (Cococin) and the selenopeptides (β-L-
production at one of its
glutamyl-Se-methyl-L-selenocysteine, and β-L-glutamyl-
facilities, the company
pharmaceutical powders.
L-selenomethionine) for maintaining the morphology
needed a high-quality
and numbers of the dermal papilla cells when exposed
pharmaceutical screening
to stress signals. The composition protects the dermal
solution. Having
papilla cells from stress signals (UVB radiation), and the
purchased Russell Finex
numbers of live dermal papilla cells are maintained at a
machinery previously, Sri Krishna Pharma once
Pfizer, GSK, Wyeth and Sanofi-Aventis, Russell
level of 95 percent or more when the dermal papilla cells
again relied on this supplier to provide a solution.
Finex analysed Sri Krishna Pharma’s unique
With more than 80 The Russell Finex hygienic pharma sieve installed at Sri Krishna Pharmaceuticals’ Uppal factory supports consistent product quality and increased production rates
Production at its Uppal factory was being up-
are exposed to UVB radiation levels ranging from 0.8 J/cm2
years’ experience supplying aseptic pharmaceutical screening solutions to global customers including
requirements and supplied three 900mm diameter
to 1.0 J/cm2. This composition has also been patented in
scaled to include the manufacture of paracetamol.
Russell Compact Sieve units with the Vibrasonic
Europe (EP2695603), Japan (JP6064274), New Zealand
During its manufacture, a homogeneous product is
Deblinding System. The enclosed system is ideal
(NZ600307) and Russia (RU2606752).
made by blending various pharmaceutical powders
for the pharmaceutical industry as it provides total
to provide the perfect uniform mixture. The product
containment, protecting operators from any harmful
in Europe (EP2461786) for a composition comprising
must then be screened before it is packaged,
dusts or fumes.
β – glucogallin (1-O-galloyl-β-D-glucose) Amla (Saberry)
to ensure foreign or oversize contamination
and concentrate of liquid endosperm of Cocos nucifera
is removed.
Sabinsa’s cosmetics division has also received a patent
A Bhaskar Reddy, assistant general manager
(Cococin) for promoting hair growth. This composition
Reddy adds: ‘The installation of the Russell machines has not only made full sanitation easy to achieve, but also protects the health and safety
also protects dermal papilla cells from UV rays. The
of purchasing and stores at Sri Krishna Pharma,
of our operators. These units have proved to be
invention has previously been granted a patent in in
says: ‘We are very conscientious when it comes
the ideal solution, helping us to meet production
Australia (AU2010326651).
to product quality at all stages of manufacture.
demand whilst improving hygiene.’
Symbright promotes even complexion PRODUCED IN HIGH purity from clary sage,
permanent hyperpigmentation disorders on the face
studied the skin’s reaction to external aggressors. After
SymBright is a natural, sustainable, and versatile
and body.
screening several hundred molecules, the company
product from Symrise. It protects the skin from harmful environmental aggressors, which can lead to
SymBright shields the skin against the negative effects of air pollution, UV rays and blue light with
balance, preserving skin luminosity despite exposure to
Skin’s natural brightness is maintained or
external aggressors.
Stress, pollution, UV rays and visible
SymBright’s efficacy has been proven in clinical testing with significant results. After less than seven
light seem to trigger a common reaction
weeks of application, skin areas exposed to UV rays are
sequence in the skin involving inflammation
brighter and more even. The active ingredient soothes
and melanin production. This sequence is
skin and protects it from harmful environmental
part of the skin’s natural defense system
influences, helping to modulate the pigmentation
so the production of melanin is often
process. Skin’s natural defense system is strengthened
augmented, leading to pigmentation
and dark spots and redness are avoided. This makes
disorders and the formation of dark spots.
the ingredient ideal for skin care products such as
As a leader in sensitive skin and environmental skin protection, Symrise has
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
ingredient – can assist the skin in keeping its natural
visible results after just a few weeks of use. it returns.
8
found that SymBright – a skin brightener and soothing
face, décolleté and hand creams; after-sun care and deodorants.
STREET Serum with
natural oils
African Extracts has launched a daily repair
Exfoliation gets sexy
Luxury brand, Khave is a body scrub range developed by ex-Stormers rugby player, Tim Whitehead and business partner, Stuart Black. These locally produced scrubs are sexy, dark, indulgent and packaged in masculine pouches that are sleek and chic. The scrubs are
facial oil, which promises to protect skin against environmental damage and premature ageing. It is formulated with bio-active rooibos, which is high in antioxidants. It also contains a cocktail of precious plant extracts. Jojoba seed oil offers superb moisturising, olive-oil derived squalane helps maintain suppleness and radiance while neem seed oil supports sensitive skin. The serum is sold nationwide in Dis-Chem, Clicks, selected pharmacies and major supermarkets, and online on Takelot and Zando.
available online only in two variations – Eliven (coffee/ cinnamon) and Revive (coconut/matcha). Visit www. khaveskin.com for more information.
The science of
skin care
QMS Medicosmetics has launched a new serum based on epigenetics. EpiGen Daily-Detox Serum is formulated with a rejuvenating epigeneticpeptide, which stimulates cell migration and proliferation. It also allows skin to recover its integrity faster. The serum is said to represent a new era in skin care development. QMS Medicosmetics’
Inspired by Africa Indulge your skin and senses in the exotic scents of the African Skin Care collection. These body lotions are rich in vitamin E to nourish the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and soft with a beautiful glow. The 500mℓ lotions are available from @Home stores in three variants: Savannah Shea; Marrakech Argan and Cape Olive.
products are available online from www.futurethis.co.za.
Spritz-on UV protection Optiphi has launched a new sun care product, Solar Spritz SPF 30, which forms part of South African brand’s Body Curve range. This oil-
Give your locks a glow The launch of highlighting toners by
Label.m marks the arrival of an industry first. This high fashion hair care collection comprises four unique sprays, directly
free, mattifying formulation offers lightweight
inspired by the makeup trend called
sun protection and is ideal for anyone with
strobing. They provide an incredible
an active lifestyle. It is packaged in a spray bottle making it easy to apply. According to Optiphi, Solar Spritz curbs the effects of UV rays such as redness and photo-ageing. Optiphi skin care products are available at selected spas, salons and skin centres.
luxe-metallic finish, giving colour highlights on hair with an iridescent glow. Label.m highlighting toners give consumers the freedom to be creative with their hair, using non-committal colour. Theseproducts are available at selected Splush stores.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
9
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TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.
10
8 to 10 December Casablanca, Morocco www.cbhexpo.com
Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Bank:
2017
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
January Cosme Tokyo
24 to 26 January Makuhari Messe, Japan, Tokyo www.cosmetokyo.jp/en/
International Salon and Spa Expo 27 to 29 January Long Beach, USA www.probeauty.org/isselb
S FOR : BUTO R IS T R I UD D E PRO RE TH WE A
IMCD can help you source the most innovative materials in the industry, as well as functional ingredients to optimise your formulations in personal care, pharma and home care.
IMCD SA | 275 Oak Avenue, Randburg 2194 | TEL: +27 11 570 4260 | FAX: +27 11 293 2069
COMPANY FOCUS
The beauty of
natural ingredients Based on the company’s product range and its experience in distribution, Botanica Natural Products has positioned itself as a competent niche distributor of unique active ingredients, oils and butters.
B
otanica Natural Products (Botanica)
instrumental in establishing the source
such as shower gels, bath oils and
is an established, respected
to market supply chains of shea butter
hair conditioners.
producer and business-to-business
in the ’70s and Argan oil 10 years ago.
distributor of cosmetics extracts from
While marketing Botanica’s products
and skin feel of shea butter are good,
Africa. The company specialises in sourcing
to potential clients in South Africa,
they are not unique when compared
100 percent pure ingredients from producers
Colson and Coetsee saw there was an
to other vegetable oils and fats with
and offers them to discerning customers who
opportunity to supply 100 percent pure,
similar fatty acid composition and
are focused on quality.
organically certified oils and butters to the
consistency. The main reason for the use
South African industry.
of shea butter in high-end cosmetics
By partnering with ingredient producers and supplying products directly to
formulations is the non-glyceride
manufacturers, the company ensures
Healing damaged skin
the supply chain is as kept as short as
Shea butter is obtained from
possible. This empowers Botanica to offer
the kernels of the shea tree
smaller minimum order quantities (from five
(Butyrospermum parkii),
kilograms) at more attractive prices for small
which grows in the
and medium enterprises or new entrants to
semi-arid savannah
the industry.
woodland of West Africa,
The company has also developed strategic partnerships with various import and domestic freight forwarders to ensure its
reaching from Senegal to Uganda. This natural
products are transported throughout South
raw material is
Africa at the most competitive rates and
highly regarded in
delivery times.
the cosmetics industry
Botanica was established in 2009
components, primarily the triterpene alcohol esters, due to their bioactive
DID YOU KNOW?
because of its high emollient and moisturisation benefits and its
commercial producer of Bulbine Frutescens
occlusive lipid replacement ability. The
leaf juice. It has introduced this product to
semisolid character of traditional non-
the global cosmetics industry as a soothing,
fractionated shea butter gives a buttery
healing and moisturising active ingredient.
consistency and easy spread-ability
Michel Colson and Will Coetsee founded
on skin. Sometimes, the fractionated
the company in 2008. Colson has more
oil phase is preferred since liquid oil is
than 40 years’ experience in the European
more easily formulated into a skin care
and African cosmetics industries and was
cream or surfactant-based products
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
properties. It is believed that
Botanica first imported Argan oil from producers in south west Morocco in 2009 to distribute among local cosmetics producers. It currently imports and distributes more than 1 000kg of 100 percent pure, organically certified Argan oil per annum for its South African customers.
and gained attention as the world’s first
12
Although the moisturising properties
the unsaponifiable content is beneficial for healing damaged skin. Botanica’s organically certified shea butter is
Botanica’s Moringa plantation
COMPANY FOCUS A teacher and learners from Ramaahlo Primary School, Botanica’s benefit sharing partner
harvested and produced in Burkina Faso
product portfolio by adding
and mechanically refined in Germany.
100 percent pure Moringa
The company works directly with the
oil. So, the company grew its
cooperatives in Burkina Faso to develop the
10ha plantation of organically
knowledge and applications of shea butter
certified Bulbine Frutescens, by
for the cosmetics industry.
planting 6 000 Moringa trees.
Liquid gold
used by the ancient Egyptians,
Similar to shea butter in West and Central
Greeks and Romans for a
Africa, the production of Argan oil is an
wide variety of nutritional and
activity restricted to women, either as
cosmetics purposes, leading
individuals or within co-operatives.
to it being labelled ‘the
Moringa oleifera has been
Argan trees (Argania spinosa) grow
miracle tree’.
in well-defined geographical areas and
Moringa oil is obtained by
cannot be planted in other parts of the
cold-pressing the seeds of the
world. One hectare of Argan can produce
tree. The seeds contain up
up to 800kg of mature nuts, which in turn
to 40 percent oil, which has
yield about 13ℓ of Argan oil. For this reason,
tremendous cosmetics value
the product is called ‘liquid gold’.
and is used in body and hair
Current cosmetics interest in Argan oil for skin and hair care applications is due to its main features, including: •v itamin A (retinol) – the oil contains carotenes (of which about 50 percent are beta-carotene), which is the initiator
care as a moisturiser and skin conditioner. Moringa is also used as a carrier-oil in the fragrances and essential oils market. The oil is widely recognised
of vitamin A. Retinol acts directly on the
and highly prized for its
derma to increase skin elasticity, making it
antioxidant and skin rejuvenating
essential in reducing wrinkles and acting
properties. It is so rich in vitamin E
as an anti-ageing active.
that it stabilises collagen, repairs
•v itamin E (tocopherol) – it has twice as
damaged skin cells and helps prevent
much tocopherols as olive oil (63mg per
the reoccurrence of blemishes and
100g Argan oil versus 32mg per 100g
minimise dark spots from acne and
olive oil). Tocopherols are powerful anti-
hyperpigmentation. Due to its excellent
oxidants, free-radical scavengers and a
moisturising, nourishing and emollient
natural anti-inflammatory.
properties, Moringa oil has recently
• l inoleic acid (omega 6) – because of
has been supported by the German government, the Industrial Development Corporation and Anglo American’s Zimele fund. •
been included in formulations by
its high C18:2 content, Argan oil plays
established brands like L’Oréal, Garnier
an important role in stimulating oxygen
and The Body Shop.
exchange through the cell barrier.
Moringa oil is so rich in vitamin E that it stabilises collagen, repairs damaged skin cells and helps prevent the reoccurrence of blemishes
Botanica has also augmented its own production by establishing
A miracle ingredient
an out-grower network, which will
After seeing the positive reaction to its
directly benefit more than 300
Argan oil, Botanica decided to expand its
people in rural Limpopo. This project
Botanica Natural Products – www.timola.co.za
Proud MICRO-BIOLOGICAL consulting and testing service to Botanica. M.C.C. (Medical control council) authorised facility.
Contact details:
Physical Address: 50 Hennie Alberts Street, Brackenhurst, Alberton Tel: 011-867-2059 Email: labserve@mweb.co.za www.labserve.co.za
LBS.indd 2
2016/07/29 8:06 AM
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
13
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
Where balance
matters most
Today, microbiota is considered one of the sentinels commanded by skin’s defense system. Jean-François Molina from Solabia discusses prebiotics and probiotics and how these ingredients are changing the approach to skin care.
M
icrobiota is now being given
2015 by a Japanese team
a lot of attention defeating
demonstrated its benefits
the taboo that bacteria
on maintaining hydration4.
are an enemy. Thanks to
and food supplements and functional
Improving skin’s natural defenses
foods, the cosmetics industry has logically
The skin uses various
found itself at the crossroads due to a
biological defense
cross-sector approach.
mechanisms when the
growing interest, which started with health
Cutaneous Microbiota can neither be
stratum corneum is
defined in a specific way nor generalised.
impaired or broken. Its
Each person has their own microbiotic ID
innate immune system
that has developed over time. Each cm2 of
induces responses
skin contains one million microorganisms
such as phagocytosis
with hundreds of specific species, making
by neutrophils and
it an important ecosystem. However,
macrophages or the induction, particularly
Solabia, is the guarantor of a sustainable
difficulty lies in differentiating the good
by the keratinocytes, of the synthesis of
ecology and formulated in many skin,
microorganisms from the bad.
antimicrobial peptides5, 6 or AMP (the
hair and personal care and intimate
defensins, in particular hBD2 and hBD3,
hygiene products.
Commensal or resident bacteria are
Figure 1: Immunostaining of defensins 3 (fluorescent green) after topical application of placebo versus test cream formulated with Ecoskin
considered beneficial in the common
cathelicidins LL37) in addition to constitutive
discourse delivered to consumers.
AMP peptides (Rnase, psoriasin, lactoferrin
Pre/probiotic complex
Facing them are transient, undesirable
and dermcidin).
With consumer interest in probiotics being more prevalent than prebiotics, Solabia
and/or pathogenic bacteria. These
Solabia, represented locally by Vantage
opportunistic bacteria can become
South Africa, became interested in skin flora
has continued its research and developed
harmful or induce disorders when the
and maintaining its balance almost 20 years
a symbiotic active ingredient, combining
host’s defenses are weakened. Skin can
ago. Specialising in enzymatic biocatalysis,
two prebiotics and two probiotic bacteria
also contain pathogenic bacteria, for
the company developed an original
(Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus
example Staphylococcus aureus, which
method to produce a specific enzyme by
casei) in an inactivated form. The result
is part of their commensal flora without
fermentation (glucosyl-transferase) and then
is Ecoskin.
developing damage.
in activating the enzyme on substrates of
Propionibacterium acnes and Corynebacterium xerosis are bacteria linked
plant origin to obtain prebiotics. Prebiotics are oligosaccharides that
In addition to its ability to interact on microbiota bio-selectivity, the gluco-oligosaccharides and fructo-
to oily skin problems or the development of
have bio-selectivity with respect to
oligosaccharides (obtained after pressing
bad odours. These microorganisms are not
microbiota. In the present case, these are
the yacón tubers, Polymnia sonchifolia),
considered pathogenic, but their harmful
gluco-oligosaccharides (Bioecolia) acting
have demonstrated stimulatory properties of
action is related to the composition of
as selective substrates to promote the
the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides (see
development of microbiota to counteract
Figure 1) of type β-defensin 2 and β-defensin
undesirable microorganisms associated with
3 (+71 percent versus a placebo). The
skin disorders.
presence of lactobacilli also enhances the
microbiota surrounding them. Staphylococcus epidermidis, which you often hear about in the cosmetics
The selectivity of Bioecolia is linked to the
industry, can induce
presence of specific bonds of types α-(1-6)
Evaluated against a placebo on a panel
and α-(1-2) between the constituent glucose
of volunteers with very dry skin, Ecoskin
units, metabolised faster and more efficiently
enhances skin’s radiance by reducing
by the commensal resident flora. This is then
the average depth of the micro-furrows,
acne prone
reinforced or improved on the cutaneous
restructuring skin via its micro-depression
skin3, while
surface rather than the opportunistic flora.
network, nourishing it and reducing feelings
a study in
Bioecolia, a signature active ingredient from
of discomfort.
significant skin infections and is found in
14
immune protection of the skin.
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
It was from this observation that Solabia
Figure 2: Structure of Teflose (60 percent rhamnose)
Universal in application (soothing care,
glycobiology, developed
deodorants, care for sensitive skin or atopic
Teflose, a polysaccharide
dermatitis, care for oily skin and personal
with a high concentration
hygiene etc.), Teflose can be combined
of rhamnose (see Figure
with prebiotics, the latter promoting
2), a sugar having specific
maintenance of the microbiota while this
affinity for epidermal cell
anti-adhesion shield prevents
receptors. This molecule
the establishment of opportunist bacteria on the skin. •
the skin to limit the adhesion of opportunistic
and the mucous membranes uses adhesion
bacteria, like an anti-microbial shield,
factors associated with specialised structures
reducing discomfort.
present on the bacteria surface, with the
attacks (e.g. Interleukin-8).
Research, specialising in
plays the role of a coating on the surface of The colonisation of the cutaneous area
specific mediators, particularly bacterial
Tested on reconstructed epidermis after
ability to bind to specific receptors of skin’s
topical application, Teflose confirmed
cells. Fighting against the microbial adhesion
its affinity for the skin by decreasing
of opportunistic bacteria is an additional
the adhesion of Propionibacterium
means of defense to limit the proliferation of
acnes, Staphylococcus aureus and
undesirable or even pathogenic bacteria
Staphylococcus epidermidis. Other studies
and maintain the cutaneous microbiota.
have also emphasised its ability to reduce
The adhesion factors are different according
the biofilm formed by certain bacteria.
to the bacteria. Among them are bacterial
The rhamnose composition of Teflose is
lectins, which are capable of binding to
not limited to anti-microbial adhesion;
receptors of epidermal cell membranes. The
with 60 percent of this rare sugar, the
adhesion process can also come from the
polysaccharide exhibits anti-inflammatory
lectins having a specific affinity for sugars7.
properties by regulating the release of
*References available on request
ABOUT Jean-François Molina is the sales and marketing director at the Solabia Group, a French company that specialises in active ingredients using biotechnology, fine chemistry and vegetal extraction.
Solabia – www.solabia.com Vantage South Africa – www.vantagespecialties.com
www.vantagegrp.com 011 3140912 - wayne@lipo.co.za - kim@lipo.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
15
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
The first step in
clinical evaluation CEL, located at the North-West University (NWU), is expanding its current business and research models to offer increased value to brand owners and manufacturers.
C
osmetics and personal care is
product. This has led to the appointment of a
an incredible industry driven by
project dedicated CRA and clinical team at CEL
innovation. Competition is fierce
for such studies.
with prices and target markets
where skin irritancy potential or skin mildness
As per regulatory requirements, it is agreed
claims are investigated, to substantiate the
that cosmetics and personal care products
use of ‘clinically tested’ or ‘proven mildness’ on
should not contain any pharmaceutical active
label claims.
ingredients. Permitted ‘bioactive’ ingredients may
To ensure shorter lead times and more cost-
not therapeutically alter the biological function
effective services, CEL has the following pre-
of the skin. However, some products almost cross
scheduled testing dates available for 2018:
the line between cosmetics and therapeutic
• s kin tolerance and compatibility (safety)
products and may possibly incur a regulatory re-
- 5 to 9 and 12 to 16 March
classification from cosmetic to medicine.
- 23 to 27 July
It is clearly stated that cosmetics products
- 30 to 3 August • s kin barrier repair (efficacy)
should not and may not claim to cure or treat pathological skin conditions. So the challenge remains to develop an innovative product with ‘permitted’ pharmacological action without the risk of being labelled a ‘medicine’. Cosmetics should also
Sample preparation for testing at CEL
These in vivo safety assessments include tests
varying significantly.
be deemed safe for use.
How can CEL help you? Protocols utilised by CEL are aimed at
DID YOU KNOW?
- 7 to 16 and 21 to 30 May - 3 to 12 September - 17 to 26 September.
All clinical trials are only performed once ethical Toxicity testing facility clearance is obtained from the To assist R&D scientists and NWU Research Ethics Council regulatory departments with high (NWU-HREC). The NWU-HREC is throughput safety screening assays registered with the National Health Research and information, CEL is excited to Ethics Council. announce that a new in vitro toxicity
either the safety or efficacy assessment of topical products. Clinical efficacy trials are mainly
testing facility has been established at NWU. The cells cultured for the in vitro toxicity tests are
performed to investigate label claims. While
human keratinocytes. These are the main type
safety trials are reserved for skin tolerance and
of cells in the epidermis and their main function
compatibility investigations, the laboratory has
is protection.
identified the irritation patch test as a basic, or first step in vivo clinical evaluation for a market ready
This unit offers cytotoxicity assessments of the active ingredients and excipients used in a formulation, tested on in vitro skin cultures. These tests include the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) assays. The MTT assay uses cell viability as the endpoint and is based on mitochondrial reduction of tetrazolium salt into formazan crystals. So, the MTT assay is a colourimetric assay utilised to determine cell metabolic activity. For the lactate LDH assay test membrane integrity, the cytotoxicity assay is based on the measurement of activity of LDH released from damaged cells. The combination of these two tests give an indication of acute cytotoxicity of the ingredients used in cosmetics, personal care and other pharmaceutical products. •
CEL – anina.vanderwalt@nwu.ac.za
16
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
Calcium hydroxyapatite and skin Hydroxyapatite, a nutritious element, is present in the body and food as an organic and non-organic component. This element also plays an important role in cosmetics.
S
everal studies have shown this mineral may improve skin health
Actives for skin protection are not always
18 percent and for SPF 50, by approximately
well known that any foreign substances
two percent. In the case of UVAPF the
(such as chemical sunscreen filters) applied
differences were negligible. However, the
to the skin tend to diffuse deep down and
requested UVA/UVB ratio was reached.
interfere with skin metabolism. This activity
protection with performances comparable
insoluble solids (inorganic filters).
or even better than TiO2 with no blue-white
When particle dimensions are very small,
appearance. It also offers better texture
the delivery of substances deep down
than TiO2 while Kalilight decreases skin
is increased.
roughness, increases skin elasticity and
Sometimes this leads to problems of skin intolerance and loss of efficacy, mainly
action and free radicals. The
when active ingredients are meant to
characteristic of hydroxyapatite as a slow
develop their functions only while staying
release source of phosphate and calcium
on the skin’s surface. With Apalight, a new
ions contribute to its use as an anti-ageing
skin-friendly micro-dispersed solid active,
skin care active.
significant sun
302/08/00, when compared to placebo,
The new sun care agent can enhance UV
has also been demonstrated for micronised
and protect it from oxygen
As described by ISPE in the study
nine percent. For SPF 30, by approximately
as skin friendly as one might imagine. It is
provides a soft-focus effect. •
Kalichem Italia – www.kalichem.it Orkila South Africa – www.orkila.com
protection can be achieved.
four weeks of hydroxyapatite (Apalight) in skin roughness (-9.5 percent, p<0.05; see
Sunscreen efficacy
Figure 1) as well as a significant increase
In vivo tests were
of skin elasticity, particularly biological
performed to
elasticity (+10.3 percent, p<0.05; se Figure 2)
evaluate the
and the viscous elasticity coefficient (-17.1
sunscreen efficacy
percent, p<0.01; data not shown).
of Apalight
application showed a significant decrease
The most interesting result was the
compared to
soft-focus effect. After the hydroxyapatite
titanium dioxide
application, six volunteers out of 10
(TiO2). Three
showed a decrease in fine lines, while
formulations
three out of 10 showed a reduction in deep
containing the
wrinkle volume.
same quantity of
Hydroxyapatite particles have a wide
Apalight and TiO2
irregular surface, full of protrusions
were tested: six
and cavities, which may host active
percent in Colipa
biomolecules. So, the system can be used
standard P3 (SPF
as a biocompatible delivery system able
15); four percent
to regulate the release of actives onto the
in the sunscreen
skin. Based on this discovery, Kalichem
product with SPF
Italia, represented in South Africa by Orkila,
30 and five percent
has developed Kalilight (functionalised
in the sunscreen
hydroxyapatite), a new and fully dermo-
product with
compatible brightening agent.
SPF 50.
Sun care and face care
the evaluations
Calcium hydroxyapatite also demonstrated
showed an
good efficacy in sun protection and can be
increase in the SPF
considered a physical filter. This led to the
values. With the
development of Apalight – a biologically
Colipa standard,
compatible physical sunscreen with skin
the increase was
forming properties.
by approximately
Figure 1: Skin roughness (-9.5% [p<0.05])
In all cases,
Figure 2: Skin elasticity (+10.3% [p<0.05])
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
17
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
A truly
beautiful
Avroy Shlain’s supply chain is essential to ensuring consumers remain at the heart of its successful direct selling business. This was highlighted at the SAPICS breakfast for Women in Supply Chain hosted at the cosmetics and skin care company’s head office. By Abby Vorster
supply chain
At the breakfast, Roberts shared some of the company’s main initiatives and achievements: • customer complaints are down -51 percent over the last two years • to reduce picking errors the supply chain teams removed ‘product description’ from the pick-slip and implemented KPIs and review stats per picker to address any issues
DID YOU KNOW?
Avroy Shlain products on display at the breakfast
T
he company’s supply chain practices revolve around the consumer mindset, which
• where faulty packaging occurred, the company changed suppliers and improved new product development
As a direct selling specialist (NPD) processes and validations business, Avroy Shlain features one • where goods were damaged in of the largest number of distributors transit, Avroy Shlain’s supply chain throughout South Africa, Namibia and Botswana. It was also voted teams reviewed and changed one of the top three Beauty and processes and shipper packaging Cosmetic Brands in 2013 • the company has implemented by the Sunday Times.
is why Avroy Shlain looks at its
business from their point of view with one clear goal in mind – consumer satisfaction. This is to
a proper call centre and customer
care helpdesk • its web-based system and functionality are continually enriched.
create a seamless end-to-end supply chain. Carin Roberts, operations director at Avroy
Ensuring high levels of performance
Shlain, explains: ‘In the last five years the
‘At Avroy Shlain our supply chain initiatives are
business has doubled in size. Working in such
centred on enhanced collaboration and constant
a dynamic environment requires that our
adjustments or changes to build a competitive
supply chain teams continuously improve
advantage,’ comments Roberts.
service levels and create value.’
One such change was to reduce the NPD process by five weeks because of better
Members who attended the SAPICS breakfast for Women in Supply Chain were taken on a tour of Avroy Shlain’s warehouse situated in Midrand
18
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
collaboration between the technical, marketing and sales teams as well as third party suppliers. The company has also implemented innovation
Elaine Stewar t, me mbership and business developm ent at SAPICS; Tonya Lamb, SAPICS group sales and marketing ma nager, with Carin Roberts
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
stock control, resulting in the best stock-take result in its history (R1 000 variance).
Rebranding a legacy brand Avroy Shlain rebranded earlier this year, revealing a days with suppliers and launched a supplier
modernised brand positioning and a new
recognition programme. Avroy Shlain’s
tagline: ‘True Beauty Shines’. This is in line
procurement department uses three main
with its vision to inspire and empower those it
categories to manage its current pool of
touches through relationships, opportunities
suppliers: maintain; develop and review exit.
and products to create a beautiful Africa.
‘With these clear guidelines and ongoing
Shira Evan, marketing director at Avroy
collaboration, we have seen a significant
Shlain, comments: ‘True beauty comes
improvement (+15 percent) in our vendor
from within. We believe having a passion for
performance scorecard versus previous
life, inspiring others, being confident and
years,’ she explains.
respecting yourself and the world you live in
Other achievements include the highest
A BRIEF LOOK AT SAPICS THIS PROFESSIONAL KNOWLEDGE-BASED association enables individuals and organisations to improve business performance. SAPICS builds supply chain excellence in individuals and enterprises through superior education and training, internationally recognised certifications, comprehensive resources and a countrywide network of accomplished industry professionals. This network is ever expanding and now includes associates in other African countries. SAPICS is also a proud APICS exclusive premier channel partner for sub-Saharan Africa and a representative of multiple organisations, including the Demand Driven Institute and the Institute of Business Forecasting & Planning.
is what true beauty is all about. That’s why
number of units picked in a single shift
we create beauty products for all women in
(100 000 units via fine picking) thanks to
Africa to enhance their natural beauty, so
the company’s successful and ongoing
improved pick line balancing, continuous
they can look as beautiful as they feel.’
transition in empowering women
training of pickers and reviewing bottlenecks. With tighter location management and
The company also launched a new look website (www.avroyshlain.co.za) and is
updating its stock receiving process within
using social media platforms to engage with
the warehouse, Avroy Shlain’s supply chain
women on what ‘True Beauty Shines’ means
teams have also increased the company’s
to them.
The Avroy Shlain rebranding represents
while telling a story that speaks to a diverse community. •
SAPICS – www.sapics.org
Crest Chemicals
For all around Beauty you can trust. T. +27 (0) 11 254 3433 | M. +27 (0) 83 297 0655 E.Angelique.Myburgh@crestchem.co.za 247 15th Road, Randjespark, Midrand, 1685, South Africa PO Box 4280, Midrand, 1685, South Africa crestchem.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
19
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
BACK TO BASICS with tutti foodie Lipotec, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is bringing the benefits of superfoods to skin care with its Actiphyte line of botanical extracts. By Rosalía Mantilla, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Sylesh Venkataraman, Raquel Delgado
C
onsumers are growing
skin to provide a youthful and glowing look
increasingly concerned about
and reduce signs of eczema, psoriasis
their environmental footprint.
and blemishes.
They also seek safe and
A few carefully sourced, natural ingredients are preferred over a long list of unpronounceable ones
healthy products providing a positive effect on their body. As a result, a few carefully
sourced, natural ingredients are preferred over a long list of unpronounceable ones. Superfoods are a megatrend in the
health care and beauty industries, forming part of a more general movement towards using traditional food components as cosmetics ingredients. The ancient Chinese believed well-rounded nutrition
was needed to achieve a balanced yin and
Green: photo-protection and anti-inflammatory Persea gratissima is the source of Actiphyte avocado. Ancient Mayans used avocados to soothe damaged skin. The presence
Its cosmetics properties, according to
of polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols in this
yang, incorporating ingredients from these
literature, show pomegranate can act as a
superfood may protect skin cells from
five colour families: red; yellow/orange;
cofactor for prolyl and lysysl hydroxylases,
UVB-induced damage and help inhibit
green; blue/purple and white/ brown.
which stimulate fibroblasts to produce
inflammation8. It can also present possible
Following the traditional multicoloured
collagen and help prevent early signs of
moisturising and healing properties, making
diet, a selection of food-inspired Actiphyte
wrinkles3. It may also protect skin against
it a great candidate for sun damaged skin9.
botanical extracts is presented. Each
the effects of UV-radiation and prevent
comprises powerful compounds such
collagen from becoming susceptible
became a panacea for many different
as vitamins, antioxidants, minerals and
to damage4.
conditions, including gastric upset, tetanus
phytochemicals among others. Benefiting
In Ancient Greek literature, broccoli
and skin infections. Actiphyte broccoli
Yellow/orange: antioxidant and free-radical fighter
is extracted from Brassica oleracea
Actiphyte ginger is an extract of Zingiber
to upregulate the cells own defenses
Red: anti-ageing and wrinkle prevention
officinale. Ginger root has been used for
against UV damage10. This vegetable
centuries in Chinese herbal medicine for
is also rich in CoQ10, helping to restore
Actiphyte beet is an extract of the Beta
its positive effects on the body, as well
collagen and elastin levels in the skin’s
Vulgaris root, a herbaceous biennial plant
as to enhance herbal combinations.
cells, aiming to slow down premature sun-
initially cultivated by the Romans before it
The presence of shogaols and gingerols
induced ageing11.
spread throughout Europe and Asia.
may act as a promising radical
from the best that nature has to offer, these natural extracts can fulfill all the skin needs.
italic. The sulforaphane in broccoli helps
scavenging and soothing agent to
Blue/purple: nurturing
as a cheek and lip stain because of its
alleviate irritated skin. It may also assist in
Aubergine or eggplant is a species of
vigorous rosy colour. It was also used to treat
counteracting skin damage and presents
nightshade belonging to Solanaceae
digestion and blood-related conditions.
antimicrobial properties5.
genus. Actiphyte eggplant is extracted
In the 19th century, women used beet
According to literature, beet can act as
Actiphyte grapefruit is an extract of Citrus
from this glossy, purple vegetable, which
a promising producer of hyaluronic acid1.
grandis. Grapefruit extract was historically
contains zinc and magnesium. These
The presence of betalains also neutralises
used by the Chinese to fortify and refresh
minerals assist in the production of
free radicals and helps prevent wrinkles and
the lungs and spleen. According to
hyaluronic acid, helping skin retain its
fine lines2.
literature, the astringent and soothing
water and maintaining smoothness and
properties of this citrus fruit could act as
elasticity12. The presence of vitamins and
granatum) is inspired by the traditional
an antioxidant agent to combat bacterial
anthocyanins aids in improving skin’s glow13.
knowledge of ancient Greeks and
growth, helping to purify skin and making it
Egyptians. They applied pomegranate on
suitable for delicate skin types6,7.
Actiphyte pomegranate (Punica
20
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
Actiphyte acai berry is the extract of the Euterpe oleracea. Historically, Acai
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
berry was used by American natives as a
almond was considered a good nutrient for
applied to heal broken bones, sprains
remedy for skin diseases, hemorrhages and
the nervous system. In traditional medicine,
and strains.
bacterial borne diseases. The tribes of the
almond oil has been used to improve
Amazon commonly used it to remove snake
complexion and skin tone.
venom from the body.
According to literature, in skin care quinoa is expected to present anti-acne
Oil extracted from this nut can help to
properties, mostly due to its saponins
stabilise the amount of sebum secreted
content, which can decrease sebum
presence of omega fatty acids, the acai
by sebaceous glands, improving the
production. The seed may also present
berry may work as a nurturing ingredient
appearance of oily skin16. It may also
magnesium and zinc, assisting to relieve
to revitalise dry skin14. It could also protect
assist in inhibiting the proinflammatory
blemishes and scars caused by acne18. It
against and eliminate free radicals with
cytokines that cause comedones and in
is also known to assist in soothing skin and
its anthocyanins and polyphenols. These
maintaining cutaneous hydration levels17.
decrease inflammation conditions due to
compounds, together with the vitamins
Almond presents possible antioxidant and
acne vulgaris and rosacea, thanks to its
A, C and E, can aid in regenerating and
anti-inflammatory effects, making it a great
content in ascorbic acid19. •
illuminating skin15.
candidate for oily and acne-prone skin.
White/brown: sebum and acne control
Chenopodium quinoa seed, is ideal to
Actiphyte almond is extracted from the nuts
skin. This common edible seed has high
of Prunus amygdalus dulcis. In Ayurveda,
mineral content. Traditionally, it was
According to literature, because of the
Actiphyte quinoa, extracted from purify imperfections for flawless looking
*References available on request
Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
21
SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment
Trends driving rapid innovation Kunal Kumar, Evonik’s marketing manager for
personal care, North America, shares two ways in which consumers’ behaviour and expectations are shifting and impacting technology and products.
T
he focus now is on experiences
magic cream to milk skin care concept
to North America, while UV-defense has the
rather than accumulating things. In
uses milk-like droplets, which break on
strongest demand in Asia and Europe.
experiential beauty and personal
the skin to unleash moisturising and
care, formulators and brands
brightening benefits.
have sought to create new and interesting
Other uniquely textured formulations from
formulations depend upon the region.
textures in products for enhanced
the company include a luxurious Whipped
Understanding these differences can
engagement. Novel textures, often inspired
Cream and a Cooling Balm (see Table 1),
greatly enhance brand-building and
by the Asian market, include ice cream and
which transforms from solid to cream with a
marketing success.
mousse concepts.
perceived cooling effect upon application.
Evonik has created Shape Memory W/O
Perhaps no region has been considered a greater trend influencer in recent years
gel, which boasts a self-levelling ability to
Borderless beauty
than Asia. Sleeping masks from Asia have
give the consumer the impression of a ‘fresh
In the age of the internet and social media,
created new demand in Europe and
start’ before each use. Its transformative
trends spread faster and wider than ever.
North America. Asian consumers are also
Table 1: Transformation Cooling Balm
Phase
A
B
C
seeking out masks in peel-off, wash-off
beauty concepts
and hydrating leave-on formats, as well as
w/w %
have become
products that offer whitening, anti-ageing
Abil EM 180 (CetylPEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone)
0.40
homogenised. Brands
and skin radiance.
TegoSoft SH (StearylHeptanoate)
8.00
Cyclopentasiloxane/Cyclohexasiloxane
12.00
must take global
Ozokerite (KahlWax4511N)
5.00
Microcrystalline Wax
1.00
Water
59.70
Glycerin
3.00
1.3-Butylene Glycol
10.00
Sodium Chloride
0.20
Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin (EuxylPE 9010)
0.70
including improvement of hair gloss
22
But that doesn’t mean
Ingredients
The solid-like consistency is obtained by the combination of waxes and high internal water content while TegoSoft SH contributes to the perceived cooling effect
amino acid with
Texture is also culture-specific and preferences between light and rich
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
In the US, women are looking for
trends and manifest
products that offer a detox effect, as
them locally while
well as multifunctional beauty offerings
taking cognisance of
where skin care and makeup concepts
the categories leading
merge. Evonik has developed a demo
in each region. For
formulation, Brilliant Tone-up Cream,
example, hair care
which offers moisturisation and skin
comprises a far bigger
tone enhancement. •
portion of the market in Africa and Latin America, compared
Evonik – www.evonik.com
QUALITY CONTROL
A versatile solution for measuring light
Light meters for measuring ambient light in lux, fc or cd/m² are important when determining good lighting conditions in laboratories or other illuminated areas to guarantee optimal results.
T
he Goldilux range of light
laboratory environment or in the most
meters are manufactured
challenging field settings such as
and produced in South Africa
mines. The autoranging light meters
by Measuring Instruments
are accurate, hand-held instruments
Technology (MIT). They have been
with excellent photopic correction and
available on the market since 1989,
directional response.
are accompanied with a SANAS accredited calibration certificate and intrinsically safe. Goldilux instruments are a South African development based on the Absolute Radiometer, a successful research project pioneered in the country to validate a new definition
The solid state photosensitive
DID YOU KNOW?
detector is a long-lasting, stable silicon photodiode with excellent linearity. Optional attachments
MIT was launched 25 years ago and accessories by Margie Hengstberger. Together include a wide variety with her team of engineers, optical specialists and consultants, she serves of remote probes, a a diverse customer base, offering a carrying case and a wide range of word-class scientific remote hold cable. instrumentation to measure light, radiation, colour Ultraviolet and and intensity.
of the unit of light. The Commission Internationale de
phototherapy meters
The Goldilux range of ultraviolet
The Goldilux range of UV meters from MIT
water and food sterilisation. UV-B and UV-C radiation is harmful to the eyes and skin. Phototherapy meters are used for
l’Éclairage or CIE, the international
meters are developed for a
monitoring the blue lights used in
body governing light measurement,
multitude of applications requiring
incubators for jaundiced newborn
globally adopted this new definition
measurement of the spectral ranges
babies. The effective wavelength range
based on a primary physical unit
of UV-A (330 to 400nm), UV-B (250to
is critical but the Goldilux Bilirubin meter
resulting in the commercialisation of
320nm), and UV-C (225 to 280nm).
is suitable for all types of blue-light
the Goldilux instruments.
Applications for the UV-A meters are in
installations. Calibration certificates are
the printing industry and laboratories
also supplied with the instruments. •
General purpose light meters
where curing of materials is done. The
Goldilux light meters are stable,
shortwave UV-C radiation is used for
robust and can be used in any
germicidal applications in medicine,
Measuring Instruments Technology
Leading Through Quality and Innovation
MIT – www.marmit.co.za
Manufacturing the Goldilux Range • Large LCD display
• Hold function to freeze the reading
ULTRAVIOLET METERS Quality and Reliability for various applications (e.g. GUV, NDT etc).
• Stand-alone meter can also be used for plug-in of external probes for UV and/or white light • Analog output • Robust • High stability of reading (within 1% over 12 months) compared to 30% drift over 6 months on some competitors’ instruments • Supplied with accredited calibration certificate valid for 12 months
Tel: +27 12 349 5191 | Fax: +27 12 349 5190 | Cell: +27 82 784 2011 | Email: info@marmit.co.za | www.marmit.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
23
QUALITY CONTROL
Microbiological quality management
raw materials, wash water and finished products. This single long-term preservative may get the job done, however it may be time-consuming and the cost of long-term preservation can be quite high. This is why many manufacturers use
Stagnant water in all pipes may contain bacterial counts >106cfu/mℓ, representing a certain level of risk in manufacturing. Schülke offers a fastacting two in one in-can preservative, based on a synergistic combination of benzisothiazolone (BIT), methylisothiazolone (MIT) and laurylamine dipropylenediamine (BDA) with a broad spectrum of efficacy.
M
additional agents to treat raw materials and process water in order to avoid contamination within the manufacturing process. This approach can be inconvenient, expensive and does not ensure comprehensive process and product security. To overcome these challenges, Schülke, represented in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals, offers a product solution that: • t reats contaminated process water and raw materials • e nables extensive process hygiene
icrobial contamination of a
• p rovides synergistic in-can preservation.
product can occur during the manufacturing process, with the
An innovative blend
majority of contaminants being
Parmetol MBX is based on BDA, a fast-acting
Parmetol MBX killed all ® MBX parmetol microbes within five to parmetol® MBX-Concept 10various minutes There are sources of microbial contamination in a
present in many different sources, such as:
amine, and MIT/BIT. It is suitable for in-can
• water
preservation and kills bacteria, yeasts and
• raw materials
moulds within process water or raw materials in
• vessels, bulk tanks and plumbing lines
only a few minutes. At the same time, it offers
• b iofilms
long-term protection ensuring a well preserved
• ion exchanger resins and reverse
finished product.
osmosis membranes.
There are various sources of microbial
Moderate temperatures, neutral pH and
contamination in a manufacturing process, like
neglected housekeeping tend to cause and
stagnant water in pipes and raw materials, which
schülke’s new parmetol® MBX-Concept requires the addition of support process and product contamination. can present serious sources of contamination.
manufacturing process: stagnant water in pipes may contain the whole biocide concentration atapproach the very beginning of the There is a common to overcome bacterial counts >106 cfu/ml. In addition serious sources of production process. dueA to the outstanding How to eliminate the risk theseEnabled problems. single ‘quick-killer’ isstability used to and treatparmetol® the contaminated process water contamination are raw materials orof contamination other subsequently added short-term efficacy, MBX guarantees for: and raw biocides are used materials. In most cases, an in-can preservative components. What is the commonOxidising approachand for non-oxidising these problems? to the prevent products from being contaminated to ensure long-term preservation is added within A single “quick-killer” is used to treat contaminated process • A highly effective biocide for pre-contaminated process water by microorganisms. In addition to bleaching, the last production step of the product. water and raw materials. In most cases the in-can preservative • A security buffer for contaminated raw materials oxidising agents possess some severe Schülke’s new parmetol MBX-concept requires to ensure a long-term preservation is added within the last • Long-term in-can preservation Figure 1: Parmetol MBX disadvantages. So, many manufacturers use the addition of the whole biocide concentration guarantees production step oflong-term the product. ➜ All in one single product! in-can preservation
non-oxidising in-can preservatives to treat stored
production / application process
addition of raw materials / other components
parmetol® MBX
raw material (contaminated)
at the very beginning of the production process.
finished product + in-can preservation
storage tanks finished product
mixing tank
mixing tank
high/low risk of contamination
low risk of contamination
24 | OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review Test results comparison: parmetol® MBX | MIT/BIT | DBNPA
filling tank
low risk of contamination
Candida albicans (ATCC 10231)
QUALITY CONTROL
Key benefits of parmetol MBX O nly one dose of parmetol MBX at the very beginning of the production process is necessary to prevent or minimise the effect of contamination during the entire manufacturingprocess. T he blend provides safer manufacturing procedures and the opportunity to eliminate quarantine time, product recalls and downtime issues. It also reduces blocking of filling lines by
Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry
contaminated products. Parmetol MBX allows for sustainable use of raw materials due to low use concentrations. T he preservative blend complies with the standards of various ecolabels.
This is enabled by its outstanding stability and shortterm efficacy. Parmetol MBX is a highly effective biocide for precontaminated process water, a security buffer for contaminated raw materials and offers long-term in-
ALPHA
FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha
TANGO
FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango
can preservation. Fast-acting biocides, the so called ‘quickkillers’, are common within several applications, such as the combination of dimethylol glycol, methylchloroisothiazolone and methylisothiazolone or 2.2-Dibromo-3-nitrilopropionamide (DBNPA), to name a few. Since formaldehyde releasers and halogenated organic compounds are not accepted by all ecolabels and test magazines, like Germany’s ÖKO-TEST, the challenge is to develop a fast-acting preservative with long-term protection based on widely accepted ingredients. Due to extensive
BRAVO
Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo
research, BDA was recognised as an excellent synergistic molecule for today’s standard soft preservatives based on MIT in combination with BIT.
Test conditions and results Dilutions of three preservatives containing different concentrations of either DBNPA, MIT/BIT or parmetol MBX were prepared using sterile hard water (according to the European standard for testing chemical disinfectants and antiseptics) and inoculated with standard microorganisms
OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability
(approximately 105cfu/mℓ). The dilutions were streaked onto tryptone soya agar (bacteria) or sabourauddextrose agar (fungi) after 30 seconds, and two, five, 10 and 60 minutes. The evaluation was made based on the semi-quantitative assessment of the microbial growth of the streaks. Within the test period of 60 minutes the conventional mixture of MIT with BIT showed no efficacy even in high use concentrations. Whereas parmetol MBX killed all microbes within five to 10 minutes, accordingly performed much faster than the widely known and extensively used DBNPA. •
Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za Schülke – www.schuelke.com
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.
Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics Innovation with Integrity
FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
25
QUALITY CONTROL
Consistently flexible
Philips high-tech shavers are in great demand and considered premium products. With 200 robots embedded in a groundbreaking assembly concept, the company can maintain its focus on quality, profitability and flexibility.
T
he production of shavers is under an immense cost pressure and the trade offer for the devices is quite large. In combination with factors like quality and design, the purchase decision is also affected by the price.
The assembly of the high-tech shaving devices demands the highest
level of quality, whereas standard shaver models rely mostly on manual
The Omron Adept solution
labour. This demand for a high-quality assembly process has made Philips’ plant in Drachten in the Netherlands turn to automation for
60 different product lines culminate in some 600 single
production. Reliable assembly processes with integrated quality control
products. Thereby the product spectrum changes almost every
assure the highest level of quality of the consumer products.
day,’ says Matthias Schaller, head of robotics at Bremer Werk
At Bremer Werk für Montagesysteme, the specialists have the industry
für Montagesysteme.
expertise and knowledge, but in the case of Philips, there was much more required than pre-existing, proven off-the-rack solutions. ‘The real challenge in finding the right solution for Philips was to accomplish the enormous model variety of the high-end shavers. Currently about
Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions
Philips also insisted on a guaranteed future level of performance of their equipment.
This demand for a highquality assembly process has made Philips turn to automation for production Flexible components from one source How does one build machinery capable of assembling products, when no one knows how they will look and work in the future? Omron Adept had a suitable solution. Automation strategist, Schaller explains: ‘After first analyses, a system concept emerged, which could only work based on extremely flexible automation components from one source. Due to the multitude of assembly stations, a component mix of different manufacturers would have led to an uncontrollable complexity. Thus, we needed six-axis robots, SCARA robots, vision systems, part feeders and controls – all from a single source. So, we counted on Adept.’
Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet
Articulated robot Viper
SCARA robot eCobra
Mobile robot LD Series
The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency. Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge! Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za
An innovative production site When the integration of the new lines is complete, more than 200 robots and 70 Adept Anyfeeder systems will provide the frictionless assembly system for the shavers. This sets up the third critical flexibility factor, which was the choice to use Omron Adept products. Most of the robots on the existing lines were already equipped with vision guidance and all new machines are scheduled to have a vision system. The groundbreaking automation solutions guarantee an economic and efficient assembly of high-end shavers. The sophisticated assembly concept assures an unrivalled level of sustainability and the Philips plant is now one of the most innovative production sites for high-quality shavers. •
robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 26 | OCTOBER 2017 | P1 C Review
20-07-17 12:52
Taking responsibility
for providing quality service. MJ Labs is a contract manufacturer and packer for complementary medicines, health supplements, cosmetics and vitamin fortification. This is done in capsule, powder, cream, liquid, tablet and sachet form for human consumption. New machinery has been introduced which includes a sachet machine, tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet manufacture and packing operation. MJ Labs is a proudly South African company established in 1999 by the Managing Member, Johann Cadle. We are situated at Silverton Business Park, 354 Derdepoort Road, Silverton, Pretoria. MJ Labs adheres to a Quality Management System which are based on the following principles: • Application of processes for quality throughout the entire organization • Continously monitoring the interaction between these processes • Ensure effective operation and management of these processes • Ensure resources and information are readily available • Implement necessary actions to achieve planned results and continuous improvement MJ Labs is registered with: • South African Medicines Control Council • South African Pharmacy Council • South African Department of Health • South African Buro of Standards
Contact us on 012 804 8966 or E-mail: rp@mjlabs.co.za for any queries
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
A vital link in SA’s manufacturing chain MJ Labs has a proud heritage in South Africa as a manufacturer of world class health supplements and complementary medicines (CAMs). The company has grown extensively over the past 17 years and recently secured its GMP certificate. By Abby Vorster
I
n South Africa, manufacturing is central to boosting economic growth. It creates jobs, drives technological changes and provides a path to development. MJ Labs is one contract
manufacturer and packer that continues to make a positive contribution to the economy, producing CAMs, health supplements and more recently, cosmetics. The company is also an accredited and registered vitamin fortification manufacturer with the South African Bureau of Standards and Department of Health.
Proud supplier
to MJ Labs
Christelle van Aswegen, MJ Labs’ responsible pharmacist
Capsule filling is a core competency of MJ Labs
More than just a chemical supplier Omnia’s Chemical division, operating under the Protea Chemicals brand, has a wealth of experience and a reputation for excellence in the distribution of speciality, functional effect chemicals and polymers in sub-Saharan Africa. Protea Chemicals is more than just a chemical supplier, specialising in value-added chemical solutions which touches our lives daily. Quality products supported by strong and reliable local and international suppliers enable Protea Chemicals to be one of the leading companies in almost every sector of the distribution market. We are proud to say that our market includes personal care and cosmetics, food and beverages, water treatment, engineering, paints and inks, textiles, plastics, rubber, chemical manufacturing and formulation, petroleum and lubrication, packaging and paper, pharmaceuticals and healthcare and animal feeds. Protea Consumer Care offers a range of products such as Petroleum Jelly, White Oils, Waxes, Oleochemicals, Surfactants, Emulsifiers, Rheology Modifiers, Vitamins, Additives, Fragrances, Plant Oils & Butters and a full range of commodity chemicals in various pack sizes. Leanne Rossouw: Industry Sector Manager Mobile: + 27 (0)76 683 5615 Tel: +27 11 821 3310 Email: Leanne.Rossouw@proteachemicals.co.za
28
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
General Enquiries: info@proteachemicals.co.za
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
MJ Labs adheres to a stringent quality management system where all processes are documented
One of the tablet presses at MJ Labs
After capsules are filled, they are cleaned and polished using a polishing machine to remove any excess powder attached to the capsules
customer-centric approach to business. As a result, MJ Labs has kept up with industry and
MJ Labs was first established in 1999 by its
regulatory demands and was
managing member, Johann Cadle. In those early
recently awarded its license and
days, the company operated from a small facility
GMP certificate from the South
located in Kempton Park, Gauteng, yet organic
African Medicines Control Council
growth and expansion over the years saw MJ
(MCC). Prior to this, in 2013 the
Labs relocate to its current premises at Silverton
company received its 9001:2008
Business Park on Derdepoort Road in Pretoria.
ISO accreditation.
Cadle, who has broad pharmaceutical
The journey to certification
experience, has always had a hands-on and
was a long one for MJ Labs, as it
MJ Labs’ manufacturing capacity The company can produce: •1 .2
million capsules per day 000 tablets per day •5 0 000 sachets per day •2 000ℓ/kg of liquids/creams •7 50
per day
•e ight tonnes of fortification premixes per day.
Nutrispec would like to congratulate Johann and his team on their dedication and commitment in achieving their MMC accreditation. It has been and remains a privilege to be considered a regular supplier of quality raw materials. We wish them continued success in the future.
TEL + 27 12 345 6574 FAX + 27 12 345 3760 EMAIL enquiries@nutrispec.co.za
Your supply partner for Amino Acids & blends; Herbal Extracts; Phyto Chemicals; Vitamins & derivatives; Nutritional Oils (in bulk, powder and soft gels); Proprietary formulated products and other Nutritional Specialties
www.nutrispec.co.za P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
29
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA The tablet coating machine at MJ Labs
DID YOU KNOW?
A mixing vessel for emulsions, creams and lotions
is for most manufacturers in this industry, because all the facility improvements, in line with the MCC’s requirements, were self-funded by the managing member.
Some of the first products manufactured by MJ Labs were Lerumo-Lamadi vitamins and minerals, Immuno Active – the immune system booster, various skin care products and vitamin premixes for bread and maize products.
These include the HVAC, air and water systems,
which ensure the compressed air and water used within the facility are of a pharmaceutical grade. There have been other changes too; MJ Labs manufacturing facility was initially a lot smaller. However, the company has needed to employ more
people to keep up with customer demand, so the manufacturing facility was relocated to its current location adjacent to the now larger administrative building. MJ Labs’ dispensary has also moved downstairs to accommodate the need for more administrative space, and its production area has undergone extensive renovations and expansion.
World class solutions and services The company’s expertise lies in capsule and tablet manufacturing for CAMs and health supplements. It also produces high quality ointments, powders, creams and liquids. MJ Labs has further diversified into to produce quality cosmetics products manufactured in a GMP approved facility. MJ Labs’ state of the art packing facility operates with a HVAC system within epoxy walls and floors. The manufacturing facility has the capabilities to pack vegetable and gelatin capsules, tablets as well as softgels, which are available in bottles or blister packs. Liquids, creams, ointments and gels are also available, packed in either bottles, tubes or tubs. Its additional services or capabilities include: • hard gelatin capsules • liquid bottles or drops • b anded packs • powders • tablets • b lister packs. The company is flexible and aims to give brand owners a competitive edge by producing products of excellent quality and taking responsibility for
30
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA One of the many packing lines at MJ Labs
The pharma grade water system
1 800ℓ mixing tank
providing quality service. This allows its customers to focus on their core competencies, like sales, marketing and brand management. MJ Labs has the infrastructure and equipment to cope with low and high volumes. While it does have a minimum order requirement, this is mainly to establish a profitable outlook for the customer. However, the company is flexible
The company is flexible and aims to give brand owners a competitive edge
when it comes to new or smaller customers and will tailor its minimums to suit their budgets.
Choosing a path to success MJ Labs is a proudly South African company. It provides permanent employment to a wide spectrum of individuals from labourers to highly skilled professionals, all of whom are crucial to the company’s ongoing success. In 1999, Cadle employed eight people and now he employs 75. There has always been a strong family focus at MJ Labs, which has adopted a matrix operating system that sees all employees treated equally and requires everyone to work together as opposed to operating in silos. From inception, the company took a strategic decision to develop and keep technology local, providing a continuous path for its growth and creating jobs in a country where rising unemployment numbers are an ongoing challenge. MJ Labs is proud of its years of manufacturing, customer satisfaction and excellence in quality management. This is because the company adheres to a quality management system based on the following principles: • application of processes for quality throughout the entire organisation • continuously monitoring the interaction between these processes • e nsuring effective operation and management of these processes • e nsuring resources and information are readily available • implementing the necessary actions to achieve planned results and continuous improvement.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
31
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
MJ LABS IS REGISTERED WITH: The MCC South African Pharmacy Council The Department of Health South African Bureau of Standards
Bringing customers’ ideas to life MJ Labs’ strongest area of innovation is formulation development. The company has the expertise to transform an idea or basic formulation into a workable, effective and quality product. It is also one of a few pharmaceutical manufacturers that do tablet coating, including film coating for tablets. Some of its most recent installations include a sachet packing machine, the tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet packing machine. The latter is a new area of diversification for MJ Labs, which can now develop formulations for effervescent
Lake Foods supply a range of technology driven and consumer led addi�ves, ingredients and processing aids into the food, beverage and health industries interna�onally i Exclusive supplier of bio-available
tablets. Because these tablets are more sensitive and fragile than standard tablets, the company has installed dehumidifiers to control humidity within the manufacturing environment and the packing
MJ Labs is proud of its years of manufacturing, customer satisfaction and excellence in quality management
collagen peptides and gelatine
JOHANNESBURG +27 (011) 409 5000 MONIQUE BARNARD +27 (072) 587 5052 EMAIL: monique.barnard@lake.co.za WEBSITE: www.lakefoods.co.za The HVAC and air systems at MJ Labs
32
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
hard MJ Labs’ dedicated and are working employees, who ess central to its ongoing succ
equipment and components to pack effervescent
It is clear MJ Labs is shaping its future by contributing positively to the economy and helping brand owners
tablet products. Growth and diversification are ongoing for MJ
The micro laboratory at MJ Labs
realise their dreams. With its GMP certificate, the
Labs – its development team is in the process of
company has taken the right steps to succeed
developing an anti-septic liquid soap range for private
in South Africa’s exciting and growing contract
hospitals, which is based on the requirements of the
manufacturing segment. •
Disinfectants Act. It is also looking to branch out into manufacturing pharmaceutical products, with the hope of establishing a dedicated line for this purpose.
MJ Labs – www.mjlabs.co.za
Product sourcing, according to the specifications you require. Currently active in the Agricultural, Engineering, Nutritional and Pharmaceutical Fields...
Proud to be associated with MJ LABS Tel: +27 60 888 8666 | Email: info@qualisource.co.za | Website: www.qualisource.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
33
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
An optimal source of vitamin K2 VitaMK7, the USP grade fermentation-derived vitamin K2 as menaquinone-7, demonstrates greater quality due to its natural origin. This warrants the highest content of all-trans MK7 in terms of the purity profile and stability.
G
nosis has been able to
Gnosis is the direct manufacturer with no
to distribution and administration to
respect the natural features
intermediaries or brokers. The entire supply
of MK7 during more than 10
chain of vitaMK7, from the raw material to
years’ fermentation-derived
the finished large range of vitaMK7 powder/
highest purity (>99 percent), real all-trans
MK7 production carried out in its cGMP
oil grades, is controlled and carried out in
structure (>99 percent) and almost no
manufacturing facility located in Pisticci,
compliance with the guidelines of Gnosis’
impurities. It is a white, odourless, neutral
Italy. The organoleptic qualities have
quality management system, ISO and
tasting and flowable powder that doesn’t
also been improved through advanced
HACCP quality systems. Kosher and Halal
have the bad smell often present in other
fermentation technologies.
certificates are also available. The Pisticci
fermentation-derived or synthetic qualities
operations are also FDA approved.
of MK7.
The proprietary patented production process from Bacillus subtilis natto
sales management. The result is an optimal MK7 with the
The very high grade of quality and
(EP1803820, US7718407 and JP 5043425) is a
proven reliability are offered by Gnosis
Setting the quality standard
warranty of the origin, quality and safety of
from production to services, preparation to
VitaMK7 is free from all known allergens,
all vitaMK7 products.
processing, storage to logistics, transport
metals and organic solvents, so ‘free
®
Natural vitamin k2 as MK7
Cardiovascular
Natural Natural and SStable tab ble allll fformulations iin na ormula ations
Bone
www.vitamk7.com VitaMK7® NATURALLY derived from Bacillus subtilis ssp natto. Full-Trans content - enhanced Bio-activity NO chemical, NO synthetic, NO preservatives, Allergen-free and Soy-free. VitaMK7® recovery rate of MK-7:
• 99% with calcium Carbonate
• 100% Calcium Citrate
• 93% short time light exposure
VitaMK7® meets the USP Standards requirements
Gnosis S.p.A.
Gnosis USA Inc.
Via Lavoratori Autobianchi, 1 20832 Desio (MB) Italy
4259 West Swamp Road, 3rd Floor Suite 305 Doylestown, Pennsylvania 18902 Tel +1.215.340.7960
Tel. +39.0362.48.84.1
34
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
advanced biotech
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
It is the only vitamin K2 to meet the USP and TGA standard requirements
and characteristics to ensure products fit
Administration, published a note
their purpose.
recognising that the USP menaqui-
The common definition of purity (methodology and requirements to define
none-7 provides the guidance of quality expected for vitamin K2 products.
high quality standards for an ideal vitamin
VitaMK7 not only meets these
K2 ingredient) was effective from 1 August
requirements, its profile also solely
2015, when the first Official Compendia
contributed to the preparation of the
Monograph of Dietary Supplement for
abovementioned monographs, getting
Vitamin K2 was published in the USP
the greater validation to become
38-NF33 First Supplement. It refers to a
the USP Standard Reference. Gnosis
totally naturally derived (no synthetic
exclusively contributed to the drawing
from’ claims can be applied. The
production) vitamin K2 made up of
up of monographs working closely with
manufacturing process does not include
Bacillus subtilis natto (no B. licheniformis
different teams at USP and is already
starch-containing plant powder like soya
fermentation derived product) extract of
supplying USP with the vitamin K2
or rice flour and is stated as soy- and
menaquinone-7.
Standard Reference.
gluten-free. No solvents are used during
The US Pharmacopeial Convention
VitaMK7 and all other products from
the manufacturing process or throughout
issued three specific monographs:
Gnosis are available in South Africa from
the purification steps.
1. Menaquinone-7
Enna Industrial Ingredients. •
It is the only vitamin K2 to meet the USP and TGA standard requirements.
2. Bacillus subtilis subsp. subtilis Menaquinone extract
Disclaimer: This product is not intended to
According to Gnosis, the use of the word
3. M enaquinone-7 preparation.
diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
‘standard’ alongside ‘quality’ is often
This is a real milestone because an
These statements have not been evaluated by
misused or abused, without the term really
established USP monograph has become
the Food and Drug Administration.
referring to the acknowledged definition.
a unified reference for the industry to
A standard of quality is a document of
accurately identify vitamin K2 as MK7.
recognised excellence established by an authority, which provides requirements
Also in August 2015, the Australian Health Authority, Therapeutic Goods
Enna – www.ennaii.co.za Gnosis – www.gnosis-bio.com
SterisartAd_177x130:Layout 1 2017/03/27 2:38 PM Page 1
We are Sartorius in South Africa Tel 011 315 5444 | sales@biotechsolutions.co.za www.biotechsolutions.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
35
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA
Adcock Ingram to acquire
I
Genop Holdings n line with its declared strategy to pursue value-adding acquisitions, particularly in less-regulated areas,
Adcock Ingram has concluded a share purchase agreement to acquire 100 percent of the shares of Genop Holdings (Genop) and
DID YOU KNOW?
Adcock Ingram’s OTC division has launched a comprehensive range of health supplements called GAP vitamins and minerals.
its subsidiaries. Genop is a highly specialised instrument, surgical and pharmaceutical products company focused on the ophthalmic, optometry, skin care, aesthetic and plastic surgery segments in southern Africa. The company owns and markets the Epi-max skin care range, which has high awareness amongst consumers and health care professionals alike, as well as having a strong presence in the broader dermatological area. Genop has also been one of the market leaders in the optical instruments and ophthalmic field for over 90 years.
Focus on diversification ‘We consider the Genop acquisition to present an attractive investment opportunity for Adcock Ingram, as the range is complementary to our existing portfolio with very little overlap,’ says Andy Hall, CEO of Adcock Ingram. ‘This acquisition also offers diversification into a less regulated area of the health care market with many products in the portfolio falling outside the regulated single exit price environment.’ The acquisition is subject to regulatory approvals and other conditions typical for a transaction of this nature. •
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| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
Andy Hall
AEROSOLS
How to
overcome aerosol valve blocking Most antiperspirant aerosols on the market are anhydrous powder-in-oil suspensions. This form provides an easy, versatile and decisive way to deodorise the underarm areas. Yet aerosol valve blocking problems can occur. SummitReheis, represented in South Africa by Millchem, provides recommendations on how to overcome this challenge.
T
•O rifice size – the actuator orifice plays an
he main difficulties in formulating powder aerosols are agglomeration or
important role in preventing or minimising valve
sedimentation and valve clogging or
clogging. Naturally, one would expect that as
blockage. These problems are often
the size of the orifice is increased, the danger of
related. The first difficulty is usually the cause
valve clogging would be reduced. However,
of the second. Clogging of the valve is the more serious of the problems. There are several basic reasons for valve clogging, namely: • t he presence of large particles or crystals in the product concentrate/formulation • t he presence of only partially or improperly dispersed materials in the concentrate/formulation
DID YOU KNOW?
the orifice also influences delivery rate. While it is advantageous
According to SummitReheis, it offers the broadest range and highest-quality antiperspirant actives in the industry. Whatever performance level or product form you need, SummitReheis can deliver via its local distributor, Millchem.
• t he formation of agglomerates in
with powder aerosols to have a relatively high delivery rate, there is an optimum size that can be used satisfactorily. For example, the faster the material passes through the valve chamber, the less chance there is for it to
deposit within the valve. Therefore,
the concentrate/formulation during or
antiperspirant valve orifices are usually in
after processing.
the range of 0.018 to 0.020 inches.
Valve blockage results in the user being unable to fully discharge the product from the container. A variety of approaches have been adopted
Perfumes should be added slowly so as not to strip the emollient coating from the active
•V alve seating pressure – depending on the hardness of the powder, various degrees of pressure must be exerted by the valve sealing
to overcome this problem. Some involve
gasket and valve stem. Valves with a high
modifications of the aerosol valve hardware,
seating pressure tend to reduce valve clogging.
others involve modification of the formulation
If the particles are sufficiently soft or adequately
being sprayed and further solutions involve
coated or lubricated, there will be a reduced
special storage and handling procedures for the hygroscopic aluminium chlorohydrate and aluminium sesquichlorohydrate active ingredients.
Aerosol valves The valve is an integral part of the total product. A proper valve used with an improper formulation, or a proper formulation fitted with the wrong valve are equally poor combinations. The following factors are important for valves designed specifically for use with powder suspension products: • D istance between valve seat and orifice – the longer the distance, the greater the tendency to deposit large amounts of powder in this area. By reducing the length of this passageway to the required minimum, the danger of valve clogging can be reduced.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
37
AEROSOLS tendency for particles to become
the friction effect and allow the powder
delivery rate and produces a warmer
lodged in this area.
suspension to flow freely up the tube,
spray for topical application. Typical
reducing the risk of clogging.
vapour tap orifices are in the range
•S ize of dip tube – both capillary
• Vapour tap – Antiperspirant valve
(0.020 to 0.060 inches inner diameter)
0.020 to 0.030 inches.
and standard (0.125 to 0.165 inches
bodies typically contain vapour taps.
inner diameter) dip tubes are used
The presence of propellant vapour
with antiperspirants. The key is to use
along with the powder suspension
Practical suggestions to consider
an inside diameter that is as large as
formulation helps to clear the passages
All antiperspirant actives are hygroscopic.
possible for the specific formulation and
of any powder that may have been
Activated or enhanced efficacy
target spray rate. This helps to reduce
deposited. The tap also slows the
aluminium chlorohydrates are more
NEW FLIPCLASSIC FROM LINDAL A WORLDWIDE LEADER in
competitive and promising market
for one-handed operation, which has
aerosol packaging, Lindal
sectors, such as personal care. Its
become desired by consumers thanks
has launched FlipClassic
fresh, contemporary design delights
to the global acceptance of hinged
– an insert-less actuator
consumers by solving the common
closures on tube-based personal care
with an integrated cap. This
problem of lost caps especially in
products such as shampoos.
new actuator is a compelling
the case of the fast-growing travel
alternative to more costly twist-
pack product sector, where undesired
actuator fitted on the mounting cup. It is
lock actuators.
actuation is a concern.
suitable for a wide range of aluminium
FlipClassic is a highly
Unlike more costly twist-lock
cost-effective and ergonomically
and traditional cap-plus-actuators,
FlipClassic is a 35mm diameter
cans available on the market. In addition, a cap-integrated actuator
appealing design ideal for regional
FlipClassic is crafted with its cap and
for PET containers is in development
brands and contract fillers in
actuator securely hinged. It provides
by Lindal.
SUMMIT�EHEIS
From antiperspirants to spray drying
WE KNOW DRY
With over 30 years of global experience, Millchem through their agency Summit Reheis, provide leadership in Antiperspirant technology. WE KNOW CONSUMERS, WE KNOW DRY. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 97 4 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527 /8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za
(t._,illchem 38
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
AEROSOLS hygroscopic than the standard grades so
actuators stored in plastic bags in hot,
particular attention to preventing moisture
humid weather.
pick up is recommended at all stages of
The finished concentrate must be passed through a 120-mesh sieve immediately before filling. A Cuno filter with removable or
production. Though every formulation
2. Valve design
and production environment is somewhat
Non-mechanical break-up or NMBU
different, the following steps will help
actuators are preferred for valves, as they
place in a controlled environment where
reduce the possibility of antiperspirant
do not contain two to four radial swirl
relative humidity does not exceed 30 to
aerosol valve blocking:
chambers that can become impacted
35 percent.
with powder or concentrate.
1. Raw materials, packaging components
self-cleaning cartridges is ideal. If possible, concentrate filling must take
The concentrate should be compounded and filled in one day.
3. Concentrate processing and filling
Operators must check for freezing or
Intrinsic moisture content should be minimised in all raw materials, as well
All processing, filling equipment
filling heads.
as moisture absorption on storage
and piping should be clean and dry
and during processing. Examples of
before use.
contraindicated actions are storage of
It is important to minimise condensate
condensation around the propellant Aerosol can domes must be completely dry after exiting the water bath. Sometimes, the viscosity of
half empty drums of powder for extended
formation within the mixing vessel
the concentrate is a useful guide to
periods, storage of drums in a humid or
and its subsequent addition to the
determining its moisture content. There
damp area and leaving partially open
anhydrous concentrate.
can be a dramatic increase in viscosity
drums in storage. All packaging components must
The concentrate must be homogenised
when the total concentration of moisture in
using suitable dispersing equipment to
the concentrate from all sources exceeds
be checked for moisture before they
ensure soft lumps are eliminated and the
about two percent w/w. •
are placed on the production line.
active powder particles are sufficiently
Some examples to be avoided are
coated with emollient oils.
condensation in empty cans transferred
Perfumes should be added slowly so
from a cold warehouse or truck to a warm
as not to strip the emollient coating from
production area and moisture in valve
the active.
Lindal – www.lindalgroup.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za SummitReheis – www.summitreheis.com
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
39
SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING
Redefine, reshape and refine Hail damage or orange peel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cellulite has many nicknames and is an area of concern for many women and men. Kim MacCallum from Vantage South Africa highlights two active ingredients, which target fat and promise smoother, redefined and firmer looking skin. Hypertrophied adipocytes build up lipids, disrupting their metabolism and triggering the production of free radicals. These adipocytes secrete inflammatory signals, especially TNF-alpha. Inflammation and oxidative stress have a localised action, which emphasises obesity. For some time, nutritionists have shown keen interest in conjugated linolenic acids (CLnAs), particularly in punicic acid, a CLnA belonging to the omega 5 family, because of its ability to limit the fatty mass and inhibit lipid storage. It also activates lipid elimination and limits oxidative stress.
Proven lipolytic activity An ex vivo study was carried out on whole human skin explants, epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, to determine the lipolytic properties of active ingredients by evaluating their effect on the size of the adipocytes. Delipidol has a distinct lipolytic activity, which results in a marked reduction in the medium-size
C
of adipocytes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an activity similar to the positive ombining the benefits of nature and technology, experts at the Solabia
The study was done by obtaining skin explants
Group have harnessed punicic
from an abdominoplasty performed on a 40-year-
acid concentrated in the rubies of
old female. The explants were preserved in specific
the pomegranate (Punica granatum). This red
culture medium at 37°C and five percent CO2. The
fruit already has a solid reputation in the tactical
products were applied topically at the dose rate of
spheres of nutrition and health.
two milligrams per cm2 on D0, D3, D6 and D8. Three
Using a biotechnological process, omega 5,
explants were treated for each condition. On D10,
an extract of pomegranate seed oil, is isolated to
the explants were removed and fixed to carry out a
form an original, unique and patented molecule,
morphological study of the adipocytes and assess
Delipidol (Tyrosol Punicate), which is proven to
the lipolytic activity. Images of histological sections
combat excess fat that results in cellulite.
were digitised for analysis of the adipose tissue.
Cellulite is linked to oxidative stress. This is
Figure 1: The results of Delipadol on volunteer 13
reference containing five percent caffeine.
defined by an imbalance in the production of
Fat node reduction
oxygen-reactive species and anti-oxidising agents,
Using 19 volunteers, an in vivo study was conducted
which counter their effects.
according to a double blind, intra-individual design, with each volunteer acting as his/her own control i.e. one percent Delipidol and a placebo product were randomly distributed to the right and left thighs of each volunteer. The blind status was lifted once the results had been analysed. Weight stability and water retention phenomena were controlled during the study. By virtue of its effect on lipolysis, a significant reduction in fat nodes was present in the thighs after only 28 days of treatment with these effects doubling at 56 days on average.
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| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING How lifestyle affects fat storage Consumers deal with their hectic lifestyles in different ways – some go for a walk, others meditate or exercise. Either way, stressful situations result in the body releasing cortisol. In small amounts, cortisol is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, people who are exposed to a hectic lifestyle will sustain higher levels of cortisol, which negatively affects lipolysis. Codif Laboratories (Codif) has discovered that lipolysis and even caffeine are affected by a busy lifestyle. To combat this negative effect, Codif developed an active ingredient that redefines, In in vivo studies, Codif used 25 active
reshapes and refines the body to restore its original outline. The active is particularly effective
volunteers aged between 35 and 59 with a body
on those who lead hectic lives.
mass index between 20 and 25. They applied a
Figure 2: The effect of B-Shape on HSL
cream containing 1.5 percent Polysiphonia
Slim down with red algae Seaweed has been used for decades for its slimming properties. Through the discovery of a specific seaweed (Polysiphonia brodiei), Codif has been able to increase lipolytic activity due to the stimulation of hormone-sensitive lipase (HSL), reducing lipid droplet associated protein (LDAP).
DID YOU KNOW?
brodiei (B-Shape) on the hips, arms and stomach twice daily for 28 days. Numerical measurements were
Women generally have more taken doing an extraction of cellulite than men. According to the digital profile on the hips ScientificAmerica.com, collagen in and stomach. Centimetre women has the appearance of a picket measurements were also taken fence, whereas in men it looks more on the arms using a measuring like a cross-linked fence. The crosslinked structure is believed to be tape. The results were -8.2 percent much stronger and so it on average and up to -56 percent holds fat in better.
This protein coats and protects lipid
reduction in the width of the hips.
The stomach showed a -5.6 percent on
droplets in adipocytes. HSL is an essential and
average and up to 36 percent reduction. The
indispensable enzyme in the activation process of
arms, -0.3cm on average and up to -1.47cm in
lipolysis. It is expressed in adipose tissue where it
arm circumference.
burns stored triglycerides to free fatty acids. In in vitro studies, 1μM of cortisol (a stress
The species of algae was named Brodiei in honour of James Brodie, a Scottish naturalist.
mediator) was used to model a busy life. Human
This is a common algae in Brittany, native to
adipocytes were then treated with 0.2 percent of
the European coasts from Norway to Portugal.
Polysiphonia brodiei for four hours.
It is a red algae, which grows in tufts of five to
LDAP and HSL were labelled by
25cm. It cultivates itself on rocks, stones, shells
immunofluorescence and quantified. LDAP
A significant reduction in fat nodes was present in the thighs after only 28 days of treatment
or corallines. •
production was reduced by 70 percent and HSL production stimulated by 237 percent, increasing lipolysis even under less hectic conditions:
Vantage South Africa – www.vantagespecialties.com
+64 percent.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
41
SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING
The
fight against cellulite gets spicy
ShapePerfection from Mibelle Biochemistry (Mibelle) is a liposoluble anti-cellulite slimming active ingredient based on a purified extract of organic mustard sprouts combined with natural capsaicin.
A
lmost nine out of 10 women
Africa by Carst & Walker, developed
experience cellulite. Following
ShapePerfection based on these
puberty, almost 90 percent
new findings.
cellulite regardless of their weight. Men are
Visible slimming results
less affected, which is explained by the
This active ingredient is
specific nature of the adipose tissue in the
centred on two potent
thighs and buttocks of women. This tissue
vasodilators that can
contains more fat and is structured in a
induce the browning
different manner to that of men. The fat
of adipocytes:
chambers in women’s tissues also extend
1. a n organic sprout
easier and preferentially vertically to store
extract from the
fat cells.
Brassica alba species 2. spicy mustard
natural capsaicin, which is the active
type of adipocytes: the white ones that
component of chili peppers.
store lipids. However, new findings have
The capacity of the Brassica alba sprout
revealed white adipocytes are able to
extract to induce the formation of Beige/
transform upon activation into brown-like
Brite Adipose Tissue (BBRAT) was assessed
ones. Brown-like adipocytes, thought to
using pre-adipocytes from human adipose
be present only in babies, can burn lipids
tissue collected following abdominal
into heat. Mibelle, represented in South
plastic surgery.
Figure 1: Induction of Beige/Brite Adipocytes
burn the lipids into heat.
Slim down and firm up ShapePerfection activates microcirculation and fights water retention. It also ‘empties’ the cells of the adipose tissue by converting fat-accumulating It is suitable for use in anti-ageing
Brown-like adipocytes can burn lipids into heat
adult fat tissue was constituted by a single
e / Brite Adipocytes
a result instruct the cells in fat deposits to
adipocytes into cells that actively burn fat.
of women endure stubborn
Up until five years ago, it was believed
can induce the browning of WAT and as
These pre-adipocytes were cultured in a differentiation medium either with or without the sprout extract. Their conversion into mature adipocytes (a priori WAT) was followed by RT- qPCR analysis. Results showed that pre-adipocytes treated with the Brassica Alba sprout extract differentiated into cells (see Figure 1), which expressed much more UCP1 (+125 percent) and ZIC1 (+86 percent), both of which are
body care products, anti-cellulite massage formulations and body slimming oils. The recommended use level for ShapePerfection is one to two percent. It can be formulated in emulsions (O/W, W/O),
all types of oil based products and waterfree formulations. Clinical studies performed for eight weeks showed the rapid, strong and visible slimming and anti-cellulite effects of ShapePerfection: • -3.4cm in the waist • - 4.1cm on the abdomen • almost -1cm in the upper arm • -18.2 percent reduction in cellulite (dermis-hypodermis junction distance). The capacity of ShapePerfection to stimulate the blood microcirculation was also confirmed in a study performed on 21 women between 23 and 54 years old (mean age: 37.7 years). The slimming effect of the active was also evaluated in a study performed on 18 women aged between 21 and 54 (mean age: 42.3 years), who presented cellulite on the waist and abdomen. Results showed that ShapePerfection can significantly reduce both the abdomen and waist girths after just four weeks of treatment. •
specific markers of brown adipocytes. This proves Brassica Alba sprout extract
42
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
S-567/©Mibelle Biochemistry
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – www.mibellebiochemistry.com
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
October 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 10
www.pharmacos.co.za
The POWER of glass
Polystyrene
council rebrands
The upcoming 2017
Gold Pack Awards
NEWS
A clearer perspective UV LIGHT HAS a higher frequency or energy than
administering injectable medications in the comfort
visible light. This type of light most commonly affects
of a patient’s home.
the integrity of a bottle’s contents. In the packaging industry, UV light often accelerates
The design, manufacture, quality and choice of glass packaging are critical considerations. Suppliers
photodegradation. This photochemical
play a huge role in advancing these technologies,
reaction breaks down molecules in
which is why new features and capabilities are
products, which is why amber bottles,
constantly being developed. In this edition, the glass
which block out UV rays, are an ideal
packaging feature on page 46 touches on the new
option for packaging syrups, liquids,
developments in syringes as well as the popularity
vitamins and medication. Prefilled
and availability of amber bottles.
syringes have over the past few years emerged as a fast growing
Until next month.
choice for unit dose medication. This is owing to companies
Assistant Editor
minimising waste, increasing
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
a product’s lifespan while
The Gold Pack 2017 judges
Rewarding excellence in packaging
allowing the convenience of
OPTING FOR LABEL PRESS QUALITY A SCREEN TRUEPRESS Jet L350UV digital label press has recently been commissioned at Etiquetas Adhegraf (Adhegraf), a company part of Grupo Hispagraf in Madrid, Spain. The division, a specialist label printer, services a variety of industries with 80 percent of its production dedicated to pharmaceutical products. Following rigorous testing of different technologies and factory visits, the company opted for the Screen L350UV press because of the print quality, range of substrates, productivity and service levels delivered. ‘Productivity and quality are obviously important to us as a company. The key advantage being the value we can pass on to our clients,’ says David Pérez, the GM at Adhegraf. Through in-depth analysis, the company confirmed the press is easy to operate, offers high speeds, simplifies job changes and maintenance tasks are significantly reduced. The Screen Truepress Jet L350UV’s 50m per minute print speed makes it one of the fastest label printing machines in the industry. It features proprietary Screen printheads with four-step droplet technology. The expression of colour gradations enabled by the system’s high-resolution screening, coupled with the wider colour gamut of the proprietary UV inks produce impressive print quality. A stable transport mechanism tightly controls paper feeding to prevent meandering and maintain optimal transfer conditions. This ensures ensuring consistent registration accuracy. ‘Not only can we achieve a very high percentage of Pantone colours on the L350UV press, but also the colour and print are extremely stable. Between repetitions of the same job, we see the same quality from the first to the last page, Pérez concludes.
THIS YEAR’S INSTITUTE of Packaging SA (IPSA) Gold Pack Awards, which will be held on 22 November, is designed to showcase the best of the South African packaging industry. Gold, silver and bronze medals will be awarded to the top three winners in each of the various categories. All entries that achieve finalist status and medal winners qualify for entry into the international WPO WorldStar Awards. The judges comprise a panel of experienced individuals with a range of packaging knowledge. They seek out excellent applications and executions of anything that may involve new, innovative or creative design, marketing or technology applied to packaging in South Africa. They take into account the imported technology, components and constituents. Additionally, they look for specific South African input in the creation of excellent packaging. The critical qualification for entry is that the packaging needs to have been converted in South Africa. Anyone may enter a pack, however, in all cases, the converter and the brand owner must co-approve the entry form. A total of 59 finalists were selected for this year’s awards. From these finalists, 16 gold, seven silver and 10 bronze medals will be awarded. Other finalists will receive medals to acknowledge excellent entries of world-class standards. There will be two new awards handed out: the ‘Star of Africa’ medal will be awarded to the best entry received of a pack converted in Africa, but outside of South Africa and the ‘South African Packaging Legend’ will be announced. This award will be given to an entry selected by IPSA members as an iconic pack or for having a significant impact on
David Pérez alongside Jerónimo Pozo, regional manager at HTGraf, a representative of Screen in Spain which sold the press to Adhegraf
44
| OCTOBER 2017 | Packaging Review
the South African market. The event will be hosted at the Inanda Club Polo Room in Sandton, Johannesburg.
NEWS
COMMITTED TO MINDFUL RECYCLING DURING SEPTEMBER, METPAC-
traded and new scrap. The high
SA, the newly formed industry
intrinsic value of metal scrap has
recovery organisation bringing
body representing the interests
always been the main impetus
together the entire metals
of the local metal packaging
for recycling, independent of any
packaging value chain in South
industry, joined forces with various
legislative or political initiatives. In
Africa. It provides the aluminium,
packaging streams. This was to
addition to this obvious economic
steel and tin can industries with
encourage households to practice
dimension, growing environmental
a unified voice when presenting
mindful recycling as part of Clean-
concerns and heightened social
views, making recommendations
up and Recycle SA week, which
responsibility have served to boost
or voicing opinions. These industry
took place from 11 to 17 September.
recycling activity to conserve
leaders work together to ensure
resources and avoid littering,’ says
they support the greater packaging
aluminium currently produced
Delanie Bezuidenhout, CEO of
industry’s vision of ‘zero waste to
globally originates from old,
MetPac- SA.
the environment’.
‘More than one third of
Individual shaped strips from Romaco Siebler
The industry body is a product
Cheers to
new beginnings THE POLYSTYRENE PACKAGING Council, a product recovery organisation (PRO) for expanded polystyrene and high impact
polystyrene in South Africa, is changing its corporate name to the
TECHNOLOGY AND PACKAGING UNITE ROMACO WILL TAKE advantage of the CPhI exhibition to make its first joint appearance with Constantia Flexibles on 24 to 26 October in Frankfurt, Germany. The two manufacturers have been cooperating closely for many years on R&D. A Romaco strip packaging machine in the HM 1 series will be on show at the Constantia Flexibles booth. The Siebler HM 1 machines can be configured to manufacture die-cut strips at the customer’s request. Individual-shaped strips can be designed entirely according to each customer’s requirements. There are no limits to the possible geometries. Round or rectangular packs can be realised and even heart or star shaped. With integral grooves as opening aids, the heat sealing technology unites design with functionality. Bespoke strip perforation patterns are also no problem. The unique primary packaging helps strengthen the product’s brand personality. To enable individual shaped strips to be manufactured, a heat sealing machine belonging to the Romaco Siebler HM 1-350 series is equipped with a continuous cutting station. Two servo driven punches cut strips out of the foil layer with a drawing cut. Nothing more is needed to create air, light and moisture-tight unit dose packaging with an individual design.
Polystyrene Association of South Africa. ‘With the recent steps taken to formalise industry bodies representing the various PROs, and in our dealings with government and end-markets, it became clear that we needed to relook our purpose, role and positioning within the Industry Waste Management Plan (IWMP). Whilst technically, the council is regarded a statutory body, we will not be fulfilling this role considering the more formalised industry representation, which is currently underway,’ says Adri Spangenberg. By far, the vast majority of PROs in South Africa are established as voluntary associations. In line with general characteristics, the Polystyrene Association is regulated by common law, has an open membership and is managed from within by general members or a management/steering committee according to a constitution drawn up by members. She says by doing away with the word ‘packaging’ in the association’s name, it is able to include more players in the industry who want to join as members. ‘The polystyrene market has grown considerably since we started more than 10 years ago, and participation is no longer just limited to the manufacturers of food packaging material.’ In addition, the IWMP requires all producers and convertors of polystyrene to support its objective of increasing the recycling of polystyrene through various projects that have a strong charity and social upliftment motivation.
Several specimen sealing pattern options are available. Any machine configured for die-cutting individual shaped strips can also be used to make standard strip formats. All in all, the Romaco Siebler HM 1-350 is capable of delivering up to 900 individual shaped strips per minute.
The Polystyrene Association of South Africa’s new logo
Packaging Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
45
GLASS PACKAGING
Clarifying the perspectives Glass packaging for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics undergo stringent processes, which prove beneficial once the final product is produced. PACKAGING REVIEW showcases the popularity of the medium, which offers complete product protection.
The company’s objectives are to stay current with market developments and trends. Marsing has a new warehouse and distribution facility in Johannesburg that not only provides stock but also just in time delivery for customers, which is key to their success. It maintains long-term relationships with its customers and suppliers and is especially focused on customers’ priorities.
AN OPTIMISTIC FUTURE FOR SYRINGES Last year, approximately three billion prefilled syringes were sold across the world while the prospects for growth remain positive. Drugs based on technologically manufactured active ingredients such as biotechnology medications filled into syringes currently have a share of about 15 percent of the total market value for
M
prefilled syringes. These high-growth biotech arsing & Co SA (Marsing) is a
settle waves) and a higher added value
drugs, such as monoclonal antibodies
manufacturer’s representative,
for pharmaceutical customers.
are, due to their complexity, sensitive
importer and distributor
of pharmaceutical ingredients and packaging solutions. Scott Watson, sales director at Marsing says the company’s popular supplies are medical round bottles, dropper bottles and jars. ‘These items are
Online inspection cameras and
DID YOU KNOW?
bottle sealing in the clean room ensures a highly controlled and defect free bottle. The
Marsing has been successfully supplying the African pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetics and health care industries for more than 20 years.
provided in various sizes and used mainly for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.’ The current range includes medical
to possible interactions with individual syringe components. Undesirable protein aggregations can arise in the filled syringes during
factory produces up to
storage. These impair the effectiveness
1.5 million bottles a day.
of the medication. Gerresheimer strives
‘We are proud to have an international principal that
for a reduction or avoidance of syringe components like silicone oil or tungsten.
operates an emission-free
The company offers a broad spectrum
glass production facility even
of tungsten-reduced and tungsten-free
when the basic process is initiated with a furnace,’ says Watson. The company, ISO certified for
prefillable syringes. Tungsten is a contact material ideally suited to and often used for the production of glass syringes.
environment protection (ISO 14001:2004)
When the glass tubes are heated to
bottles with international standard neck
is committed to sustainability and applies
around 800 to 1 200°C, form rollers shape
threads (GL18) and bottle volumes in
a holistic approach that maximises
these into a cone shape at the front end of
ranges of 10 mℓ, 15 mℓ, 30 mℓ, 50 mℓ and
recycled content.
rounds in sizes 50 to 200 mℓ, dropper
100 mℓ. These are extensively used in the
‘Our approach further optimises
essential oil business and for small dose
furnace energy and gradually integrates
products like nasal sprays.
green energy sources to reduce the
Marsing represents Rak Ghani Glass, which is a modern pharma
company’s environmental impact.’ At the Rak Ghani facility, quality
glass manufacturer. All products are
assurance involves rigorous inspections
manufactured in a class 100 000 clean
from raw materials to process controls.
facility. Rak Ghani employs the newest
These inspections are focused on
technology, which is the narrow press
minimising all faults. Products are
and blow. The glass forming division
released after independent quality
contains three 10 Section Triple Gob NNPB
assurance sampling and inspection
(narrow neck press and blow) machines.
have been carried out as per military
‘The advanced NNPB process presents
standards 105E.
the greatest potential for producing
Additional quality management
light weight containers with optimised
system certifications implemented and
glass container designs and more even
maintained are:
glass distribution.’ Equal wall thickness
• I SO 9001:2008
leads to greater strength, better quality
• I SO 15378:2006
appearance of the glass container (no
• I SO 14664-1/Class 100 000.
46
| OCTOBER 2017 | Packaging Review
The 100mℓ MCA2 round neck bottle
The150mℓ MCA2 round neck bottle
A 10mℓ amber glass dropper bottle
GLASS PACKAGING
CONSPICUOUS COSMETICS PACKAGING GERRESHEIMER EXHIBITED ITS exclusive glass packaging for fragrances and cosmetics at the Packaging of Perfume Cosmetics and Design fair held in New York on 6 and 7 September. It presented a selection of new packaging designs. These bottles and jars were designed to showcase their inner contents, giving the item a unique identity. There are a range of moulding, colour and finishing options for cosmetics glass products at the company’s disposal. This repertoire enables it to cater to all relevant market segments in the world of fragrances and cosmetics.
measurement of visible deposits in prefilled syringes,
tungsten in the
meaning that tungsten compounds
syringe cone.
only generate protein aggregations
outliers caused by
Epoetin Alfa and several monoclonal
fluctuations in the
antibodies at low pH values.
process temperature or abrasions of the
INFLUENCE OF FILLING TECHNOLOGY
tungsten pins are also possible.
The filling process of the
With needle syringes
prefillable syringe can also have
– because the needles
an influence on the formation
are glued in – the
of protein aggregations due
glue seals the
to tungsten. In the case of the
inner bore, which
vacuum stoppering process, the
contains tungsten.
liquid comes into direct contact
This results in
with the inner cone and, in contrast
less tungsten
to the stoppering tube process, no
oxides being deposited on
small air bubbles remain between
the surface. •
the liquid and inner cone. This direct
and define its interior diameter, a tungsten
contact can bring tungsten traces into
pin is inserted into every syringe.
contact with the sensitive proteins during
Only a few protein formulations are
Individual
in a few cases. Examples include
the syringe. In order to keep the bore open
to date demonstrably known to form
Prefillable glass syringes
A glass object for cosmetics that was showcased at the Packaging of Perfume Cosmetics and Design fair
Gerresheimer – www.gerresheimer.com Marsing & Co SA – www.marsing-sa.com
the storage period. Gerresheimer has carried out a variety of studies on the
Your One Stop Pharma Ingredients Preferred Suppliers of & Packaging Solutions specialised packaging components for Preferred suppliers of specialised the Pharmaceutical, packaging components for the Complimentary Healthcare Pharmaceutical, Complimentary and Animal Feed Industries Healthcare and Animal
Feeds Industries.
• Light weight pharmaceutical glass containers • Certified Class 100,000 Clean Room • No additional preparation or sterilization Tel: +27 (0)11 462 6913 | Fax: +27 (0)11 462 2045 | scott@marsing-sa.com Marsing & Co Africa (Pty) Ltd | 9 Thunderbolt Lane, Lanseria Corporate Estate, Malibongwe Drive, Lanseria, Johannesburg, South Africa
Empty Gelatin Capsules | Metered Dose Sprays and Pumps Printed Aluminium, Plastic or Laminate Tubes | Medical
Packaging Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
Glass and Plastic Bottles and Vials | Closures
47
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Creating an appetite for innovation The 2017 Coschem Scientific Conference inspired formulators and brand owners to think about what’s coming next in the cosmetics industry. Hosted over two days, presentations included groundbreaking research, technical product information and a motivational talk that got everyone to reflect on their happiness. By Abby Vorster
A
bout 150 industry professionals,
information not usually garnered from
on the conference programme. Topics
suppliers, academics and
instruments. These benefits were highlighted
included medicinal plants that should be
cosmetic scientists gathered at
in the keynote presentation by Randall
considered for skin care products, which
Bytes Conference Centre on 13 and 14
Wickett from the University of Cincinnati.
address hyper-pigmentation; the photo-
September for the Society of Cosmetic
Wickett shared insights from a long-term
protective activity of indigenous and exotic
Chemists’ (Coschem) annual scientific
study performed at P&G on TEWL and how it
plant extracts; stable carrier formulations
conference. All the presentations and
increases with surfactant damage.
for ethanolic plant extracts; research on
poster sessions were based on the
He also highlighted that biomarkers
the potential of essential oils and SA plants
theme ‘Cosmetix – what is next’, and
are objective, non-invasive and provide
to address acne; the anti-ageing abilities
set out to reshape industry’s thinking
consistent measurements of stratum
of certain documented indigenous plants
in terms of future trends impacting the
corneum barrier function. ‘They provide
like the Cape Myrtle; and local plants
cosmetics industry.
new data and insights into a product’s
showing promising results for preventative
function and efficacy, guiding the
oral care products.
BIOMARKERS IN SKIN RESEARCH
development of superior personal
Biomarkers are being used increasingly
care products.’
in skin research. They can be sampled
ANTI-POLLUTION FOCUS With the increased focus on anti-pollution
non-invasively from the skin’s surface
NATURAL ACTIVES AND EXTRACTS
in the cosmetics industry, Chantal O’Brien
(desquames). By measuring changes in
Several presentations by students from the
De Villiers from Materia Medica discussed
cytokines, biomarkers provide additional
University of Pretoria (UP) were featured
the need to standardise anti-pollution
2017 CONFERENCE IN PICTURES
48
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
SPOTTED AT THE GALA DINNER
2017 CONFERENCE PRESENTATIONS Day one Combining Biomarkers and Instrumental Measurements in Skin Research by Randall Wickett, University of Cincinnati, USA Medical Plants Showing their Worth as Potential Global Competitors for Treating Skin Hyper Pigmentation by Marco Nuno De Canha, UP, South Africa Proteasomal Enhancement: An Innovative Well-Aging Strategy by Karin Barends, Symrise, South Africa Textured Hair Care – Overcoming the Challenges of Textured Hair by Mary Baloyi, Dow Chemicals, South Africa An Alternative to Split Ends Trimming by Anne Thomasson, Solvay, France Paeonia Lactiflora: Even Skin Tone and Attractiveness by Rand Nouktah, Crodarom, France South African Botanicals Against Skin Cancer as Photoprotectants by Danielle Twilley, UP, South Africa Special Care for Unique Skin and Hair by Martina Heldermann, Kahl Wax, Germany Anti-Pollution – The Exploration of the Environments Effect on Our Epigenomes by Chantal O’Brien De Villiers, Materia Medica, South Africa Emulsion Carrier Formulations for Natural Plant Extracts: Developmental and Stability Testing by Deveshnee Moodley, UP, South Africa The Beauty Millennials by Kelly Arnold, Nielsen, South Africa Day two
test parameters linking to the efficacious
Through ex vivo studies, the
activity of anti-pollution actives.
company determined several
‘While suppliers carry out independent
claims for the active, including
research on their anti-pollution actives,
shine improvement, moisturisation,
it is up to industry to set the benchmarks
frizz control and protection against
and develop a level of standardisation,’
environmental aggressors.
she commented. For example, an anti-pollution active
REGULATIONS UPDATE
needs a specific delivery system and an
A highly anticipated update on the
anti-inflammatory effect to be effective.
regulatory landscape was provided
She said industry is likely to see the
by Dershana Valla from the Cosmetic,
development and implementation of blue
Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA).
light protection factor on products much
She discussed a review of the
like the SPF factor, which has become a
draft regulations, how the labelling
universal indicator of sun protection.
requirements weren’t aligned and that the CTFA has made proposals for them
HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS
to be aligned. She also said the CTFA
Dow highlighted its newly launched
has negotiated and confirmed a redraft
textured hair care kit, which includes
of the regulations with an industry
a cost-effective frizz control serum. The
workshop on the cards.
company has done various tests on a
The conference culminated with the
range of benefits, which can be translated
annual gala dinner, which returned
into claims.
to the Montecasino Ballroom with the
Solvay focused on split ends and its new split end mending technology, initially launched at in-cosmetics. Givaudan discussed a hyaluronic acid active for hair care applications.
theme ‘A Night of a Thousand Lights’. For more information about Coschem and its annual scientific conference, send an e-mail to bridget@coschem. co.za or visit www.coschem.co.za. •
Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and) Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate, a New Unique Glucose Based Ingredient for Internal Hair Strengthening and Bond Building for Repair to Chemically Treated Hair by Dave Popplewell, Ashland Specialty Industries, The Netherlands Mother Nature’s Remedy for Your Wrinkles: New Approaches to Fighting the Signs of Skin Ageing by Bianca Fibrich, UP, South Africa Natural PEG-Free Polyglyceryl Esters as High Performance Emulsifiers for Modern Skin Care Products by Gabriele Polak, Evonik Nutrition & Care, Germany Potential of South African Plants and Essential Oils for Acne Vulgaris by Isa Lambrechts, UP, South Africa Hydroxystearic Acid Corrects Both Conspicuous Facial Pores and Age Spots by Mathieu Moulin, DSM, France Hyaluronic Acids, an All in One Solution from Biotechnology for a Sustainable and Advanced Hair Care Active Ingredient by Emilie Venera, Givaudan, France Homegrown Human Skin: A Reality to Repair Skin Wounds by Lester Davids, C2L Consulting, South Africa Postnatal Development of Skin Function by Randall Wickett, University of Cincinnati, USA Heteropyxis Natalensis as an Effective Addition to Our Oral Care Regime to Prevent Dental Caries and Tooth Decay by Karina Szuman, UP, South Africa Draft Regulations Relating to Labelling, Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics by Dershana Valla, CTFA, South Africa Happyology by motivational speaker by Gavin Sharples
P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |
49
Tea time
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Crossword clues ACROSS 1. Move deeply 5. Upstart 6. Bombastic 7. Ring-shaped
PCR September general knowledge trivia answers:
Sudoku
Zurich, Harvey Wallbanger, Addams Family, Poseidon, Tina Turner, Biro Brothers, Marie Curie, the moon
9 6
7
DOWN 1. Course certificate 2. Cut of meat 3. Poorly balanced 4. Embarrassing mistake
2
9
1
3
6
4 5
TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
7
+27 (0)82 976 6541
4
2
9
Carla Melless
6
Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
8 1
4
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
2
Candida Giambo-Kruger
7
Sales executive
1
Biotech Solutions.....................................35.........www.biotechsolutions.co.za Botanica Natural Products.................... OFC.........www.timola.co.za Bruker SA.................................................25.........www.bruker.com/optics Chempure.........................................18, 33.........www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals........................................ 41.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Crest Chemicals...................................... 19.........www.crestchem.co.za Evonik......................................................22.........www.evonik.com Flavourome.............................................30.........www.flavourome.co.za Gnosis USA..............................................34.........www.gnosis-bio.com IMCD....................................................... 11.........www.imcdgroup.com Laboratory and Biological Services.......... 13.........www.labserve.co.za Lake International Technologies...............32.........www.lakefoods.co.za Marsing...................................................47.........www.marsing-sa.com Measuring Instruments Technology..........23.........www.marmit.co.za
50
| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review
9
+27 (0)71 438 1918
Millchem.................................................38.........www.millchem.co.za MJ Labs...................................................27.........www.mjlabs.co.za Moco Cosmetic Packaging.........................5.........www.mocopack.co.za Nutrispec.................................................29.........www.nutrispec.co.za Omron.....................................................26.........www.industrial.omron.co.za Protea Chemicals....................................28.........www.proteachemicals.co.za Puregas...................................................39.........www.puregas.co.za QualiSource.............................................33.........www.qualisource.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals.................. 21, 31.........sfc-info@savannah.co.za Sensient Colours.....................................36.........www.sensientpharma.com Symrise................................................ OBC.........www.symrise.com Vantage Speciality Chemicals.................. 15.........www.vantagegrp.com Warrenchem Specialities.........................28.........www.brenntag.com
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and
and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown
closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is
seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff
your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &
agents I Concentrates
cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
NOVOPAK
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
Novopak is a plastic packaging
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,
company that specializes in
cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
manufacturing a complete range
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.
Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme
Your No. 1 industry leader
offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social
for the most comprehensive
needs and well being.
ranges of both synthetic and
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across
natural colours – used in food,
SA, cosmetics are used as tools
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to address visible side effects of
industrial applications.
treatment to assist patients to restore
Tablet coatings – manufactured,
self-esteem and face the world
supplied and marketed globally
with confidence.
under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.lgfb.co.za
www.quantumcolours.co.za
“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com
”