Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2020 by New Media B2B

October 2020

Volume 47 | Number 10

years www.pharmacos.co.za

Celebrating four decades of excellence in complementary medicines manufacturing!

Get the glow on hot SKIN & FACE CARE ingredients

Formulate AEROSOLS with enhanced sweat and odour protection

SLIMMING, BODY CONTOURING & postpandemic cellulite solutions

October 2020

Contents

Volume 47 | Number 10 www.pharmacos.co.za

40 Industry Talk Reshaping realities around Africa’s post-pandemic recovery

42 Aerosols Enhanced sweat and odour protection from Elementis NRCS issues reminder for chemical disinfectants registration

48 Association News What’s been happening at Coschem

19 6 News Alfa Laval pump boosts process efficiency IMCD celebrates its 25th anniversary SCS prepares for 2022 IFSCC London Congress

10 New Product Competition Read more to enter in 2021

12 Product News

14 Pharma Focus: Made in SA

24 Skin & Face Care

Adcock Ingram stays strong during COVID-19

Protect skin from senescence with Scutaline

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories turns 40!

Liponate CCC MB – a natural alternative to silicone oils Transform dull and tired skin with Argireline Amplified

19 Slimming & Body Contouring Shape the body with ShapePerfection

Natural and biodegradable ingredients from JRS

Chemyunion’s post-pandemic cellulite solutions

Get healthy skin from within, with Lycomato Come out of the shadows with Hyalufix GL

What’s new on our radar

Solid surfactants and concentrated products from Innospec Alchemy Ingredients explores

trends in cleansing 46 Beauty Packaging Global mass market brand launches transformative green beauty initiative

On the cover A 40-year journey to

building a local legacy

We look at how the company has evolved and continues to positively impact the market for complementary medicines and health supplements.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

FROM THE EDITOR

Skin care gets authentic

he skin care category, which has become an industry in itself, is continually evolving. Although it is considered the fastest-growing category in beauty, skin care is not without challenges as the demands on brands continue to intensify. According to industry experts, these include having to adapt to consumers’ changing perceptions of ingredients; addressing sustainability, diversity and inclusivity expectations; and demonstrating authenticity and transparency. In this edition of P & C Review, our skin and face care feature is packed with interesting reads on trends and ingredients that will not only help brands tick all of the aforementioned boxes in terms of market demands, but also to produce products that are both exciting and inviting. You can read about proven ingredients for skin care products that are aligned with the clean beauty movement, actives that address senescence and trends in well-ageing, ingredients for modern skin care strategies and solutions based on sustainability – whether it’s minimising packaging or meeting requirements for more biodegradable options. Our October cover feature celebrates a major milestone for one of South Africa’s leading manufacturers of complementary medicines and health supplements. Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Hersol) turned 40 in April and has grown from a one-man business to employing approximately 500 people.

Turn to page 16 now to read more about how this proudly South African business has evolved over the years. While every aspect of a woman’s body should be celebrated, it’s understandable that concerns like cellulite are something that women want to address. Thankfully, manufacturers of ingredients have created solutions for beauty brands to develop effective skin care products that meet consumers’ needs. You can read about these in our slimming and body contouring feature, on page 19. If you’re looking for new antiperspirant actives for your NPD projects, we explore a range of innovative options from Elementis in our aerosols feature. Also pertinent to this market, the NRCS has issued a final reminder for the registration of chemical disinfectants. Turn to page 42 to check out both of these articles. Stay safe and enjoy the read!

CONTRIBUTORS: Elena Cañadas, Emmanuel Coste, Raquel Delgado, Noëlle Garcia, Alicia Gimenez, Eulalia Gonzalez, Jessica Guglielmi, Olga Laporta, Kim MacCallum, Frédéric Maccario, Pierre-Gilles Markioli, Christine Meier, Mélanie Mollet, Barbara Morand, Pascale Prouhèze, Daniel Schmid, Lionel Valenti, Franziska Wandrey, Fred Zülli

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MANAGEMENT TEAM

CEO: Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER: Leoné Fouché CEO MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti

POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

P C Review is the official journal of:

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Vivian Frittelli

EDITORIAL

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

The team

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

John Knowlton

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

UltraPure products boost pharma and biotech process efficiency New from Alfa Laval, the LKH Prime 10 UltraPure self-priming pump

Other outstanding benefits include an increased yield due to gentle

and upgraded LeviMag UltraPure magnetic mixers reduce total cost of

product treatment and the ability to mix to the last drop, with optimised

ownership while ensuring more responsible use of resources for sterile

impeller geometry and 100% levitated design.

processing applications. Both are also backed by the Alfa Laval Q-doc documentation package for full supply chain transparency. “To improve manufacturers’ ability to compete, the UltraPure portfolio

The pump offers the highest hygiene possible as the unique levitating impeller design eliminates product contamination from wear particles and secures full cleanability. It is also sustainable with a low operation cost at

optimises pharma and biotech processes, pushing the boundaries of

40% higher pumping capacity and reduced energy costs and CO2 emissions

sterile production,” says Per-Åke Olsson, industry owner, biotech and

thanks to the flow optimised impellers. The readily accessible wear parts

pharmaceutical, Alfa Laval.

take minutes to replace onsite, offering easy maintenance.

The LKH Prime 10 UltraPure is the most compact ever in the LKH self-priming pump range. Perfect for duties up to 35m3/h, it is primarily engineered for cleaning-in-place (CIP) return, but also transfers product in sterile processes. This delivers savings of up to 50% in capital expenditures and installation, and 30% in annual operating expenses. Other advantages include: • up to 60% more energy savings than liquid ring pumps and up to 25% more than other airscrew pumps • a fully CIP-able, EHEDG-certified hygienic design • 80% lower noise levels for a better working environment • easy maintenance and streamlined spare parts inventory due to the common LKH platform. The upgraded Alfa Laval LeviMag UltraPure broadens the scope of hygienic mixing. An optional ATEX/EEx motor and exotic alloys now enable use in potentially explosive and highly corrosive environments. In addition, it is easy and affordable to transform the old MagMixer UltraPure into the new LeviMag UltraPure in minutes without touching the tank.

The new Alfa Laval LKH Prime 10 UltraPure self-priming pump products boost pharma and biotech process efficiency, productivity and end-product quality

Functional heavy-duty impact traffic door The Apex SR 9000 heavy-duty impact traffic door combines functionality with longevity and allows easy movement of pedestrians and goods. The locally manufactured door also manages to blend into any environment as a result of its sleek, modern design. Many market sectors require an attractive looking door that is robust and can withstand constant traffic moving through the opening.

Apex SR 9000 heavy-duty impact traffic doors

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

This is according to Wim Dessing, sales executive at Apex Strip Curtains & Doors, who says this particular insulated traffic door has found popularity as it is also a cost-effective option. “We’ve found that customers often specify this particular door upfront, as it has an established reputation for quality construction and durability,” he says. The door is manufactured from a 3mm ABS skin, which retains its physical properties down to temperatures of minus 40°C. The low maintenance skin is impervious to moisture, acids, petroleum products, animal fats, rodent, insects and salt solutions. The door’s insulation characteristics are enhanced by its highdensity, non-CFC urethane foam core. The patented honeycomb framework and flexible urethane foam insulation provide optimum stability and superior soundproofing qualities. Standard vision panels, constructed from 3mm clear polycarbonate sheeting,

are available in a number of custom sizes. They are also scratch-resistant and UBC compatible for enhanced visibility. Windows can be mounted in various positions on the door, and double pane vision panels can be installed for use in refrigerated areas. Dessing says wear is always an issue on impact doors, and to prevent excessive wear on the perimeter edges the door panels are bull nosed with a minimum radius of 8mm. This significantly reduces maintenance on the doors. The Apex SR 9000 doors are mounted on an internal welded steel perimeter with corner gussets, using a CMI-type V gravity hinging system. Gasket keys are moulded in place and retain gasketing without the use of screws, rivets or other fasteners. High bumpers are also fitted to the door panel to further absorb impact from forklift trucks and carts. This also reduces stress on hardware and mount assemblies.

NEWS

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils a natural salicylic acid alternative Obtained by green fractionation from the natural essential oil of the Wintergreen plant, Neosalyl from Givaudan Active Beauty brings all its benefits in dermo-purification for skin, and shininess and anti-dandruff for hair care. Beauty consumers are looking for more natural products, massively rejecting chemicals, as they see natural ingredients as safe and trustworthy. According to Mintel, 72% of consumers would be most interested in using beauty, grooming and personal care products that are made using natural alternatives to synthetic ingredient or natural ingredients adapted in a lab. This trend keeps growing in any culture and challenges the composition and origin of personal care ingredients, as of today, three out of four women are scanning product composition and looking for hero ingredients. In fact, salicylic acid along with hyaluronic acid and retinol, are among the most known ingredients by consumers. Yohan Rolland, global category manager of Givaudan Active Beauty, says: “Due to its exfoliating properties, Neosalyl is a safe and effective peeling agent for a large number of cosmetic purposes for skin care, such as exfoliation,

anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits, raising it as the perfect active for acne-prone skin conditions. As a strong keratolytic agent, Neosalyl is also a very good synergistic active for the treatment of dandruff.” Neosalyl is extracted from Wintergreen leaves, sourced by smallholder farmers in Southwest of China, in the Yunnan province. Rich in essential oil composed of methyl salicylate, they immediately produce the crude essential oil of fresh raw material in a completely traceable supply chain. At Givaudan Active Beauty’s Centre of Excellence in Avignon, France, the company’s phyto-experts begin the green fractionation process to transform the methyl salicylate and obtain the ingredient. To warrant the authentication of the raw material and the natural origin of salicylic acid from wintergreen, the company’s botanical experts apply an exhaustive set of analysis named IDPack. It includes botanical observation, DNA analysis, GC/FID and isotopic 14C measurement to clearly identify each botanical ingredient. The Care Co. is the South African agent for Givaudan Active Beauty.

The steps of green fractionation process explained by Givaudan Active Beauty

IMCD celebrates 25 years of innovation and value creation On 25 September, IMCD celebrated its 25th anniversary – a major milestone for the global leader in speciality chemicals and food ingredients distribution. Ignited by an entrepreneurial spirit and driven by a talented team of co-creators, IMCD has grown to be an innovator within the chemical industry. Established in Europe, and now expanded across the globe, the company has continued to invest in formulation expertise, IT and digital infrastructure and 49 technical centres – bringing technical expertise and local knowledge to its Hans Kooijmans, IMCD’s partners worldwide. chief financial officer, 25 years ago, IMCD’s founders pictured with IMCD’s wanted to create a company with CEO, Piet van der Slikke minimal corporate bureaucracy and a strong international and diverse focus. Today, IMCD represents 3 000 employees, from more than 50 countries around the world – all of whom are key to its success. The company’s people closely collaborate with its broad network of valued suppliers across multiple markets and territories to create solutions for our customers and help them to formulate tailored products. Piet van der Slikke, chief executive officer of IMCD, comments: “Initially starting as the ‘new kid on the block’, we were keen to make our mark and become a benchmark in the speciality chemicals industry. We are delighted to reach this important moment in our story – where we can look back with pride at what we have achieved and look forward with anticipation at the opportunities the future holds.” IMCD wouldn’t be the company it is today without its people and the trusted partnerships that the company has built over the years. “We wanted to take this opportunity to thank our broad network of suppliers and customers for all their support in co-creating relevant and futureproof formulations,” Van der Slikke adds.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

NEWS

Glatt leads engineering project for Thailand’s Biopolis complex

The Biopolis plant complex showing the GMP biorefinery building within the complex

The National Science and Technology Development Agency Thailand (NSTDA) is implementing the national government’s Thailand 4.0 initiative to promote strategic biotechnology growth at the country’s Eastern Economic Corridor of Innovation (EECi). One part of this new Biopolis complex is the GMP Biorefinery Pilot Plant at EECi, for which German engineering company, Glatt was selected to provide the engineering services. The contract between NSTDA and Glatt comprises the conceptual and basic design phases for the GMP biorefinery. The main objective of the GMP biorefinery pilot plant at EECi is to provide a ‘nonproprietary (generic) equipment’ platform for private and public organisations, as well as regional and international universities to scale-up and validate their laboratory prototypes and perform techno-economic feasibility studies before investing in specific production lines. The biorefinery platform will be designed in such a way that allows users to reconfigure the unit operation arrangement (lego box concept) and adjust the operating parameters to extreme values to optimise the process conditions (flexible process window for optimisation) and customise or scale-up the equipment. Glatt will lead the engineering project and design the biotech process plant. EECi aims to advance and transform existing industries, both within the EEC and in other parts of Thailand, through innovative research and development and advanced laboratory scale technology development to actual industrial application. Innovative agriculture and biorefinery are among the target industries of EECi.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Glatt plans and carries out international projects from the enlargement or modernisation of existing production facilities to the construction of whole new factories. In doing so, the company combines professional engineering with sound technical know-how derived from patented process technologies it has developed itself, such as Glatt powder synthesis and fluidised- or spouted-bed methods for granulation and coating processes. The focus of the projects is on processes in the field of particle design and particle engineering for the development, optimisation, functionalisation and production of powder and bulk goods such as granulates and pellets for food, feed, chemicals and fine chemicals and processes for the manufacture of biotechnological and chemical active ingredients for sterile and non-sterile dosage forms of drugs. Within the competence area of process and plant engineering, the company provides long year competences in biotechnological projects as well as in chemical synthesis engineering and has wide project experience in Asia, including Thailand, India, China, Vietnam, Bangladesh and other countries, including South Africa. Glatt Ingenieurtechnik has its headquarters in Weimar. Affiliates are located in Wiesbaden and Dresden, Switzerland, Russia, India and the USA. As an integral part of the international Glatt Group, Glatt Ingenieurtechnik can draw on a global network of some 3 000 employees. Numerous agencies exist worldwide as contacts for the full range of goods and services.

Körber joins the Alliance of Regenerative Medicine Supporting cell and gene companies with its manufacturing software solutions, Körber is proud to announce its membership with the Alliance for Regenerative Medicine (ARM). ARM is the leading international advocacy organisation committed to realising the promise of regenerative medicines and advanced therapies. The Körber Business Area Pharma is dedicated to supporting regenerative medicine by working with ARM, continuously innovating its digital solutions for the cell and gene therapy industry. “We are joining forces with the Alliance for Regenerative Medicine and the entire cell and gene therapy community to help foster the mission of saving patients’ lives,” says Rachit Jain, head of cell and gene therapy software, Körber Business Area Pharma. “As a customer-centric digital solutions market leader, our main goal is to support cell and gene manufacturers deliver lifesaving therapies to patients – first time right, every time. We want to help bring these precious therapies to market and encourage more of these ground-breaking companies to get pivotal approvals to accomplish their goals. Our vision is to be the one-stop shop and help build a cell and gene consortium where we add significant value in enhancing patients and caregivers’ lives.” Körber is a market leader in digital manufacturing solutions for the cell and gene industry and has been an active part of the cell and gene manufacturing industry with its manufacturing IT solution Werum PAS-X MES since the first FDA approval of a therapy took place in 2017. The software experts of Körber’s Business Area Pharma are committed to helping expedite the development of regenerative treatments that have the potential to be lifesaving. ARM is the leading international advocacy organisation committed to realising the promise of regenerative medicines and advanced therapies. As the voice of the sector, ARM represents the interests of 360+ members across 25 countries, including small and large companies, academic research institutions, major medical centres and patient groups.

NEWS

Henkel rethinks packaging solutions in a sustainable way As a leading supplier of adhesives and coatings for

replace plastic packaging. Both sealable coatings

bars, biscuit packaging, frozen foods and ice-

packaging applications, Henkel is working closely

enable full recyclability of paper packaging in food

cream. Both innovations provide excellent block

with its partners to support a circular economy by

and non-food applications.”

resistance for better release in the reel, while

rethinking packaging solutions in a sustainable yet

Each of the coatings seals to paper and itself,

eliminating the need for release lacquer and are

and breaks new ground in terms of re-pulpability,

compatible with all types of ink. Re-pulpability

Following last year’s launch of the RE range,

food safety and paper flexibility. Their production

verified by independent institutes reaffirms how

which is ‘designed for recycling’, the company has

performance raises the bar even higher, given the

ideal this product is for paper recycling.

since expanded the line-up to include both hot- and

ability to maintain consistent sealing properties,

cold-sealable coatings for paper. Those products

even at high machine speeds.

functional approach.

When recyclability alongside high-level performance is considered, both products are

are certified as paper-recycling compatible and

“We worked closely with our partners to

allow a whole new range of packaging designs.

design solutions that would be both recyclable

the entire value chain when making

and meet industry performance requirements”

the transition from plastic packages to paper-

factors when it comes to packaging of goods

explains Davide Coppola, European business

based alternatives.

across the board. The first step when designing

development manager coatings. “Loctite Liofol

packaging in a recycling-friendly way that

HS 2809-22 RE and CS 22-422 RE have been

is also compatible with a circular economy

extensively tested and certified in terms of

starts by ensuring adhesives and coatings can

recyclability and food safety characteristics.

accommodate alternative materials like paper for

We can offer coatings and adhesives for use on

various applications.

paper packaging in wide-ranging applications

Sustainability is one of the most important

“The main purpose of packaging is protection – and this is still what underpins our strategy. The scope also includes developing adhesives

a natural fit for Henkel’s RE range and support

without cutting corners on performance or safety.” Loctite Liofol HS 2809-22 RE is a versatile

and coatings that help improve recyclability and

coating covering a large variety of applications –

allow new packaging designs,” explains Alexander

from hygiene products and tea bags to industrial

Bockisch, Head of global market strategy for

hardware pouches and chocolate overwraps.

flexible packaging at Henkel. “Our two latest

Loctite Liofol CS 22-422 RE also covers

developments are certified recyclable and can

applications such as collection cards, cereal

Sustainability is an important factor for Henkel and when it comes to packaging of goods across the board

SCS prepares for 2022 IFSCC London Congress Bringing together cosmetic science thought

Organised by the SCS, the title of the 32nd

more topics. The world will be in London for the

leaders from every part of the industry and

IFSCC Congress London is ‘Where Beauty, Science

academia, in 2022 this showcase event for both

and Innovation Meet’, with podium and poster

fundamental and applied cosmetic research will be

presentations invited on three supporting themes:

recent months,” says Beerling. “At a time when

back in the UK for the first time in 20 years.

1. beauty of the new age

health, our mental and physical well-being,

2. science for our time

and that of our planet, is more important than

3. innovation for tomorrow’s world.

ever, the cosmetic industry helps people to

Chair of the IFSCC 2022 steering committee, Judi Beerling, past president of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) says: “We are preparing

These wide-ranging themes will include

32nd IFSCC Congress. “Science has been very much at the fore in

look and feel great – as well as safe. Science is

a groundbreaking event that will feature leading

sessions on well-ageing, sensory science,

driving our knowledge about how to do this in a

research, talk about future trends and highlight

the application of artificial intelligence in the

sustainable way, which is incredibly exciting and

the constant innovation that drives our industry.

cosmetics industry as well as neuroscience

absolutely essential.”

The podium presentations, exhibition stands and

genomics, microbiota research, practical ingredient

hundreds of posters will come together to form

technology, manufacturing

three days of the best in international cosmetic

innovation and many

science and technology.”

The event will take place at the Park Plaza Hotel, Westminster, London from 19 to 22 September 2022. For more information visit : www.ifscc2022.com and follow the SCS on social media for announcements.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

r o P d u w ct e N Competition

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria:

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.

• Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

On the Street

1. Chill out stressed skin

Garnier Bio introduces its latest complete day and night multirepairing routine for the skin, formulated with the new star ingredient – hemp seed oil – and powered by vitamin E. For the first time, Garnier combines an organic, raw and powerful ingredient with a derm-active to deliver a unique performance and sensory experience that helps help repair, restore and protect the skin barrier. Launched in Europe, the repairing hemp offering range consists of a multi-repair sleeping oil for use at night and, for daytime, a multi-repair gel cream. This new launch forms part of Garnier’s green beauty programme, which is based on green sciences and sustainability.

New products on our radar

2. Banish puffiness for good

New from Kalahari, the Phyto-Eye leave on mask is an evening treatment product, developed with the latest scientifically proven ingredients to improve blood circulation and lymphatic drainage. It promises to assist with puffiness and dark circles underneath the eyes. The formulation effectively treats and stimulates the delicate eye zone with ingredients such as caffeine; a superior peptide complex; vitamins C, P and

K; liquorice extract and new generation peptides. It will also

improve skin’s firmness and dermal tightness.

3. Own your magic!

Created by Di Thompson, RDT diMANzi for men is a cool, collected and classy fragrance, with a unique charm for the man who likes to go beyond ordinary style. Thompson’s latest offering is based on the tradition of fine French fragrance, using select essential oils from Grasse, France – the epicentre of the perfume world. The composition of the fragrance comprises zesty citrus top notes of bergamot and lemon. A heart note of rosemary captures the aromatic, woody and earthy accord while the base of patchouli and vanilla gives the essence of a warm, sensual and spicy appeal. RDT diMANzi for men was inspired by Thompson’s late son, Rowan David Thompson. Visit www.dimanzi.co.za for more information.

4. Limited edition lip duo

Mentholatum SA, a health and wellness company and distributor of Softlips lip therapy, has announced the launch of the Softlips Duo pack – available in the most popular flavours of French vanilla and raspberry rush. Softlips loyalists tend to purchase

more than one product at a time and so, in keeping with its ethos of putting its consumers at the heart of all it does, Softlips is saying thank you with this latest offering, providing consumers with double the moisture and double the sass, at a saving of 30%. The newly-launched Softlips Duo offering is available at Clicks, Dis-Chem and independent pharmacies nationwide.

5. A new energy boost from Bioplus

Bioplus Vit-Ality, a new daily vitamin and mineral supplement

range from Adcock Ingram, promises to give South Africans an energy boost when they need it most. Offering a solution for sustainable energy, Bioplus Vit-Ality multi-vitamin, mineral and antioxidant includes the clever addition of extra vitamin B and ginseng to reduce fatigue and enhance stamina and endurance. Bioplus Vit-Ality C 1000 MG helps to bolster the immune system. Bioplus Vit-Ality B6+B12 reduces fatigue and tiredness, while the D3 variant contributes to healthy bone and teeth maintenance. Bioplus Vit-Ality magnesium plus fatigue and cramp fighter promotes energy and muscle health, and the omega 3 1000 MG supports brain function. Visit www.adcock.com/ProdVitamins/ Bioplus for more information.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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PHARMA FOCUS // MADE IN SA

Proudly SA pharma manufacturer stays strong during COVID-19 The Adcock Ingram Group is pleased to report a 4% increase in turnover for the year ended 30 June 2020. The group achieved these results despite the challenging conditions such as the general economic downturn, significant cost-push due to rand weakness, global supply chain disruptions, and declines in demand for certain categories of medicine and products.

ndy Hall, CEO of Adcock Ingram, comments: “This set of results has been achieved despite the depressed trading environment and the challenges that have been brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic, such as the significantly weak rand and unplanned expenditure. Despite these challenges, we have remained focused on ensuring that we continue to produce and supply life-saving and acute medicines in South Africa which are much-needed during the pandemic.” Turnover increased by 4% to R7.3 billion, driven by an average price realisation of 2.6% and a mix benefit of 4.2%. Volumes declined by 3%, mainly in the OTC and prescription businesses. The gross margin declined from 39.4% to 37.3%, adversely impacted by the unfavourable exchange rate and COVID-19 expenditure in the factories. Operating expenditure decreased by 2%, resulting in a 1.2% decrease in trading profit to R944.3 million. Although having to operate under extraordinary conditions, both the consumer and hospital divisions showed double-digit growth in sales and trading profit, supported by increased demand at the start of the coronavirus outbreak for products such as Panado, immune-boosting consumer products, and intravenous fluids, as well as exceptional demand for the Adco Hygiene range.

PERFORMANCE HIGHLIGHTS FROM CONTINUING OPERATIONS • increase of 4% in turnover to R7.3 billion • operating expenses decrease by 2% • increase of 1% in headline earnings to R710 million • cash on hand of R317 million • Level 1 B-BBEE rating.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The OTC division’s performance was impacted by the absence of a cold and flu season in South Africa and the weaker currency, but it still grew sales and profitability. The prescription division was significantly impacted by the COVID-19 outbreak and subsequent lockdown, which resulted in lower levels of patients consulting doctors and visiting dispensaries, and the postponement of elective surgeries. Headline earnings from continuing operations for the year increased to R709.4 million compared with R701 million in the previous year. This translates into headline earnings per share from continuing operations of 417.5 cents, a decrease of 1%, after taking into account the lower number of Treasury shares subsequent to the unwinding of the B-BBEE Scheme.

LENDING A HELPING HAND As an essential service, the group operated throughout lockdown, with the majority of its employees in the factories, distribution network and other departments critical to the continuity of the operations and working on site. During this period, Adcock Ingram supported communities in need by providing food parcels and face masks. It also made early settlement of payment to small and medium enterprises; donated hospital beds and respirators through corporate social responsibility projects; and the non-executive and executive directors of the board and certain senior managers voluntarily donated 20% of their fees or salaries for three months to the Solidarity Fund, or as a cost saving in their respective business units. To date, the company has had 262 positive COVID-19 cases, of whom 253 have made full recoveries. Sadly, three employees succumbed to the virus. Apart from the positive cases, around 600 employees have self-quarantined and returned to work in line with strict protocols at various stages of the pandemic. Adcock Ingram is tremendously grateful to the people serving on the frontlines in essential services, especially healthcare workers, and

"Although the company is in a healthy financial position … the pharmaceutical market has seen a slow-down subsequent to March 2020" salutes its own employees who ensured that life-saving intravenous fluids and other medicines, essential to managing the COVID-19 crisis, were manufactured and distributed.

CAUTIOUS YET OPTIMISTIC Although the company is in a healthy financial position and generated strong cash flows in 2020, the pharmaceutical market has seen a slow-down subsequent to March 2020. The extraordinary levels of uncertainty in the economy and operating environment brought about by COVID-19 resulted in no final dividend being declared, with the company preferring to adopt a prudent cashpreservation approach until the full impact of COVID-19 is better understood. “The COVID-19 pandemic will continue to adversely impact the economy and this will inevitably have a knock-on effect on our country’s unemployment levels, the exchange rate, and a change in consumer spending and behaviour. In the absence of relief on the Single Exit Price, margin compression in the group is inevitable at the current exchange rate levels. The uncertain lifespan of the pandemic will pose further risk on the current levels of weak demand, which will negatively impact elements of the group’s portfolio. We will continue to assess structures and operating models and will adapt these based on customer and consumer behaviour. Despite the difficult short-term outlook, the group remains optimistic about the sustainability of the company,” concludes Hall. •

CMY

PHARMA FOCUS // MADE IN SA

A 40-year journey

to building a local legacy

Over the past four decades, Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has grown from a one-man business to a leading South African manufacturer that employs approximately 500 people. In celebration of its 40th anniversary, we look at how the company has evolved and continues to positively impact the market for complementary medicines and health supplements. By Abby Vorster

ersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Hersol) has the ability to supply most types of products within the complementary medicines (CAMs) and health supplements space. Based in Jeppestown, Johannesburg, the company manufactures a wide variety of dosage forms. These include single- and double-layer tablets, coated and uncoated (sugar and film coating) tablets, time-release dosage forms, effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, gels, ointments and lotions, syrups and liquids. All products produced by Hersol are manufactured according to pharmaceutical standards and legislation as prescribed by the relevant governing authorities. These include the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority, SA Pharmacy Council and the FDA. The business was established in 1980 by Laurence Solomons and Sam Hertzakowitz – who not only combined their expertise, but also the ‘her’ of Hertzakowitz and ‘sol’ of Solomons to create Hersol. In the early days, the company operated from a modest IT network consisting of four computers. Today, its operations are reliant on a robust 80-workstation network, with integrated software running all aspects of the business.

A ONE-STOP SHOP Growth and expansion have been key goals for Hersol, which the company has steadily achieved. In 40 years, the business has gone from producing products for a handful of customers to large-scale third-party manufacturing for multinational customers, export markets and leading retail pharmacies. “We are a one-stop shop,” comments Hersol’s management team, “from NPD to market, and we do all pharmaceutical dosage forms (except steriles), in almost all types of available pharmaceutical packaging. Natural medicines also form part of our product range.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

EQUIPPED WITH ALTERNATIVE ENERGY AND WATER SOURCES As an ethical and sustainable business, it is important for Hersol to operate in an energy- and resource-efficient manner. The company generates its own electricity via gas power supplied by Egoli Gas. More recently, Hersol installed a new generator, bringing the total generators at the manufacturing site to three. These generators are not only necessary during loadshedding but also provide Hersol with the electricity capacity demanded by HVAC requirements. Hersol also has stored water sources of over 30 0000ℓ in tanks on the premises.

We have become multi-faceted in servicing our customers, always holding quality and service as our main ingredients to success.” As a result of this growth, Hersol has increased its production capacity in line with customer demand. The company’s expansion incorporated installing new high-tech equipment, establishing a fully-equipped laboratory and most recently, the purchase of buildings adjacent to Hersol’s original site. It now owns two blocks within the Jeppestown suburb which it has transformed into world-class manufacturing and warehousing sites, using high-level construction. The new building has given Hersol the room it needed to expand existing operations while increasing its capabilities in the research and development, production and packing of CAMs and health supplements. With these developments and by localising manufacturing, Hersol continues to make a valuable contribution to South Africa’s economic development. Hersol has localised the production of various products that were

Hersol’s new high-speed, fully-automated encapsulation machine

initially manufactured overseas, securing both better quality and pricing as well as guaranteed supply for their customers, who are encouraged to manufacture locally. As a pioneering business, Hersol has also developed a range of dosage forms that have been highly successful in the local market.

STRONG CULTURE AND VALUES Hersol’s team is its biggest asset. While the senior management has over 80 years’ combined experience in tabletting and R&D processes, every employee is highly skilled and valued for their contribution to the company. Management comments: “We have harnessed our knowledge to provide brand owners with the best in the design and development of complementary medicines and health supplements,” “This experience is not only highly beneficial to our customers, but also enables us to react quickly to new trends and developments in the market.” The company’s comprehensive quality system matches its production capabilities,

PHARMA FOCUS // MADE IN SA

The new packaging store and warehouse

enabling Hersol’s agility and flexibility to supply all customers, from small to large entities. “We pride ourselves on consistent good quality, competitive pricing, excellent service and on-time delivery. Our R&D department is an important contributor of new ideas and concepts that add value. Our raw material suppliers ensure that the very latest and

Did you know? In light of the devastating impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, Hersol’s management has decided not to have a 40th celebration but rather to support those who are less fortunate and to increase its social responsibility efforts.

highest quality ingredients are available for incorporation into prototype and full-batch formulations – we use the most reliable raw material suppliers. Over the years we have developed products and dosage forms that have been exceptionally successful in the market.”

PERSEVERING DURING A PANDEMIC With many businesses and the economy having been negatively affected by COVID-19, Hersol has been fortunate enough to keep up with customer demand, protect its staff and keep supply chains open during the pandemic. “This was a big victory in our 40th year. COVID-19 has been an incomparable challenge and we have succeeded in getting through it thus far,” management comments.

Hersol has also diversified into packing CBD products for a select few customers and into developing dosage forms for CBD products. “We’re also looking at becoming a prime packer of imported bulk product, as part of our expansion in this new area of the industry.” Some 40 years from now, the industry can still expect to see interesting developments and progress from Hersol as the company looks forward to sustainable upward growth in the future. Hersol cannot sit still – it is in the company’s culture to be on the lookout for new products and manufacturing technology while improving the education and skills base of its staff. Even in these difficult times the company has invested in the future of the business with expansion plans and by taking on new business. The company’s senior leadership team extends a heartfelt thanks to its staff, suppliers, customers and the industry as a whole for the unwavering support over the past four decades – here’s to another 40 years at Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories! • Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories – www.hersol.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

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SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

ShapePerfection – A spicy active to shape the body Various reports reveal that about 85% to 98% of all women over the age of 20 are affected by cellulite. In response to the need for smooth skin and a flawless, slim silhouette, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed ShapePerfection. This active ingredient is based on a unique combination of capsaicin and mustard sprout extract to successfully combat the appearance of cellulite. By Franziska Wandrey, Christine Meier, Daniel Schmid and Fred Zülli

n orange peel appearance on skin first appears during puberty, as it is favoured by the female sex hormone oestrogen. The connective tissue in women is loosely structured and vertically arranged, which means body fat in-between bulges forms the characteristic dents. The main problem zones for orange peel skin are the thighs and buttocks, because larger fat deposits occur there naturally. So, what can help to address cellulite? Apart from the new ‘body positivity’ movement, anything that promotes fat burning, collagen production, tissue circulation and lymph flow could be beneficial. This includes exercise, regular deep-tissue massage, a healthy diet, and topical body products with ingredients that stimulate fat burning.

A CLOSER LOOK AT FAT BROWNING Recently, a novel biochemical mechanism was discovered which increases the fat-burning process. This is known as the ‘browning’ process. There are two types of fat tissue, white adipose tissue (WAT) and brown adipose tissue (BAT). WAT is used to store lipids in oil droplets, whereas BAT is programmed to burn fat into heat. Fat

Figure 1: White adipocytes are used for fat storage in the adipose tissue. In response to stimuli such as the cold, white adipocytes can transform into brown-like adipocytes in a process called browning. These brown-like adipocytes express high levels of UCP1 and burn fat deposits into heat

Figure 2: An immediate increase in subcutaneous blood flow is evident following a single application of ShapePerfection on the thigh

burning is achieved by the uncoupling protein 1 (UCP1) which is abundant in the mitochondria of BAT. Mitochondria contain two membranes and use the electron transport chain to generate a proton gradient at the inner membrane. This gradient is normally used to generate ATP, the universal energy carrier in our cells. In brown adipocytes, UCP1 uncouples the electron transport chain from ATP by forming another channel through which protons leak. Consequently, saturation of ATP will never be established, thus the electron transport chain will constantly continue, ultimately resulting in heat production (see Figure 1). Therefore, UCP1 turns mitochondria into a heat production machinery, which eliminates fat. This mechanism sounds like an interesting approach to treat weight problems. However, it was thought that BAT only exists in newborns as they are unable to produce body heat through shivering. Only a few

Did you know? It is widely known that cellulite is exclusive to women – this is due to anatomical reasons. Male and female skin is structured differently. For example, male connective tissue is structured like a tightly-meshed grid and is also covered by thicker skin.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

Click here to learn more about ShapePerfection

"Capsaicin activates the release of the calcitonin generelated peptide messenger, which is a potent vasodilator"

years ago, researchers found remnants of BAT in adults and discovered ways to transform WAT into BAT, which is known as the browning process.

THE BENEFITS OF MUSTARD SPROUTS Mibelle Biochemistry discovered that with an extract of organic mustard sprouts, it is possible to transform WAT into BAT and thus to transform fat deposits into heat. When precursors of fat cells were treated with mustard sprout extract, they differentiated into cells with a 125% higher expression of UCP1 compared to untreated cells. Therefore, topically applied mustard sprout extract should instruct the cells in fat deposits to burn the lipids into heat.

OIL-BASED ACTIVE INGREDIENT Cellulite is not only the result of increased subcutaneous adipose tissue but also a consequence of weakened connective tissue and local microcirculation impairment. At the onset of cellulite development, the capillary network in the dermis and

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 3: Decrease in abdomen girth after treatment with 2% ShapePerfection

adipose tissue start to break down. This leads to the accumulation of fluids and suboptimal supply of oxygen. The metabolism of fibroblast cells in the dermis is disturbed, resulting in dermal thinning and weakened connective tissue which facilitates the protrusion of adipose tissue. An oil combining the organic mustard sprout extract and the active component of chili peppers, capsaicin, (ShapePerfection) was tested for

Figure 4: Decrease of the dermis-hypodermis junction distance (DHJD) after treatment with 2% ShapePerfection or the corresponding placebo cream

enhancement of subcutaneous blood flow. Capsaicin activates the release of the calcitonin gene-related peptide messenger, which is a potent vasodilator. The mustard sprout extract contains the glucosinolate sinalbin, which is known to induce a feeling of warmth

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

technique immediately after application for 75 minutes. Compared to the placebo, microcirculation was increased by 212% after 30 minutes and by 354% after 60 minutes subsequent to the application (see Figure 2). These results show that ShapePerfection can increase the blood flow in the skin after just one application. Importantly, while blood flow was increased, the skin did not show increased redness. Figure 5: Pictures of the thigh taken before (left side) and after eight weeks of treatment with 2% ShapePerfection

after topical application. In combination, both components should have a synergistic effect on improving the microcirculation in the skin. This hypothesis was tested in a placebo-controlled clinical study with 21 women, aged between 23 and 54 years. The women applied a cream with 2% ShapePerfection on the thigh and the blood microcirculation in the skin was measured using the laser doppler

PROVEN EFFECTIVE In a placebo-controlled clinical trial, 18 women, aged between 21 and 54 years, who displayed cellulite, applied a cream with 2% ShapePerfection twice daily over a period of eight weeks. Measurements were done before the first product application and again after four and eight weeks. The circumference of the upper arms, waist and abdomen was measured, and the degree of cellulite on the thighs was analysed with ultrasonographic measurements.

Abdomen and waist girth were found to be reduced by 4.1% (see Figure 3) and 3.7%, respectively. Upper arm girth was reduced by 0.9cm on average after eight weeks. Analysis of the ultrasonographic pictures showed a decrease in the dermis-hypodermis junction distance and thus a clear reduction in cellulite degree (see Figure 4). The reduction of the appearance of cellulite on the thighs and buttocks was also visible in pictures taken of the volunteers before and after treatment (see Figure 5). ShapePerfection, a combination of a subcutaneous blood flow stimulator and a novel way to burn fat, has proven to visibly reduce cellulite and to effectively shape buttocks, hips, waist and arms. This and other active ingredients from Mibelle Biochemistry are available in South Africa from Carst & Walker. • Carst & Walker – carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – mibellebiochemistry.com

ShapePerfection Burns fat – fights cellulite • Visibly reduces the appearance of cellulite • Effectively shapes body contours • Reveals a slimmer silhouette

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

Post-pandemic cellulite solutions

While every aspect of a woman’s body should be celebrated, it’s understandable that concerns like cellulite are something that women want to address. Thankfully, manufacturers of ingredients, like Chemyunion, have created solutions for beauty brands to develop effective skin care products that meet consumers’ needs.

s more and more countries are coming out of lockdown and consumers are facing a postpandemic life, there have been some interesting and possibly unexpected consequences of being forced to stay indoors and to communicate using digital technology. One of these is the impact on the condition and health of people’s skin. According to Chemyunion, represented locally by Chemgrit Cosmetics, during lockdown people’s habits changed. Generally, they became less active, did not go outdoors, ate more or differently and spent more time online. As a result, weight gain has been identified as a major issue of the lockdown, along with concerns around loss of skin firmness and an increase in cellulite. Although not considered harmful to one’s health, cellulite can affect the self-esteem and confidence of many women, especially those still in their teens or living in climates where more skin is exposed due to warmer temperatures. Most women over the age of 20 Did you know? and of all ethnicities will experience Did you know that up to 98% of women this change in their skin at some have cellulite, and that a plethora stage, especially in the areas of the of factors contribute to this global body where there is excess adipose body concern. There are quite a few tissue, such as the thighs, flanks, ingredients that can contribute to helping skin look tighter and firmer. One of these belly and buttocks. It is therefore ingredients highlighted by experts is no coincidence that cellulite is caffeine, which creates a tightening the leading reason for aesthetic effect by dehydrating the skin. Source: www.bestproducts.com treatments by women who want to soften the appearance of their skin.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

"A total of 94% of the volunteers showed noticeably smoother skin after 30 days of treatment” WHAT CAUSES CELLULITE? Cellulite is a normal physiological state in post-adolescent women which presents as greater accumulation of fat to ensure appropriate calorie availability in preparation for future pregnancy or lactation. However, this fat deposit can cause a series of changes in the structure and physiology of the dermis, the microcirculation in the area and on the adipose tissue, which result in aesthetic changes visible on the surface of the skin. Genetics, circulatory problems, effects and changes of daily habits (such as reduced physical activities and poor nutrition – as has been the case during lockdown), hormonal factors and fluid retention all contribute to the formation of cellulite. These factors mean that even thinner women can get cellulite as it is not always directly related to being overweight. Studies show that the main changes in the physiology of the skin that culminate in the appearance of cellulite include the balance between lipogenesis (fat synthesis) and

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

3R include:

Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols, has been proven to effectively address these factors. It helps reduce localised fat that regulates deposits by balancing the activation of the lipolysis (fat burning) and by lessening lipogenesis (fat deposition), in addition to improving the quality of the extracellular matrix and consequently the microcirculation of the region.

• lipolysis activator

PERFORMANCE TESTED

SLIMBUSTER L 3R AT A GLANCE This active ingredient is ideal for inclusion in creams, gels, lotions and serums. The benefits of Slimbuster L

• lipogenesis reduction lipolysis (breakdown and oxidation of fat); loss of integrity of the extracellular matrix of the affected region due to the deformation of the adipose tissue; and the interference on microcirculation, with the compression of the venous lymphatic system culminating in tissue oedema. Chemyunion’s Slimbuster L 3R, which contains Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil (and) Brassica

• treatment of cellulite and localised fat • improvement in the smoothness of the skin • enhancement of skin elasticity and firmness.

The in vivo clinical measurements of slimming (panel of 18 women, 23 to 38 years old with moderate cellulite, who used a cream containing 3% of Slimbuster L 3R. The treatment was applied twice a day for 60 days.)

In tests conducted over 60 days, women aged between 23 and 38 applied a cream with 3% Slimbuster L 3R on the areas of highest incidence of cellulite, such as the abdomen, hips, thighs and legs. The cream was applied twice a day, without massage. The results demonstrated a measurable reduction in the size and mitigation of both cellulite and localised fat. The best results were obtained after 60 days in the thigh region where specific areas saw a reduction as follows: • 2.1% for the upper thigh region • 2.78% for the median thigh region • 2.26% in the lower part of this region. Slimbuster L 3% also demonstrated a long-term lipolytic effect, which enhances the benefits of this active ingredient when compared to other types of cosmetic and non-cosmetic treatments. A total of 94% of the volunteers showed noticeably smoother skin after 30 days of treatment. •

Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com

Chemgrit Cosmetics (Pty) Ltd is a chemical distribution and trading company. We supply chemical raw materials to the cosmetics, skin and personal care industries. Chemgrit Cosmetics offers: - Personalised Service - Outstanding Quality - Reliability - Flexibility www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za | 011 397 4455 info@chemgritsa.co.za | johrinda@chemgritsa.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

Give skin the

best defence against senescence

With a focus on well-ageing, Exsymol has developed Scutaline, an innovative active ingredient proven to fight zombie cells. In this article, the team from Exsymol outlines how Scutaline is able to meet a modern skin care strategy of helping consumers age well. By Pascale Prouhèze, Jessica Guglielmi, Barbara Morand, Frédéric Maccario, Pierre-Gilles Markioli, Noëlle Garcia, Mélanie Mollet, Lionel Valenti and Emmanuel Coste

enescence is a cellular response characterised by morphological changes, a stable growth arrest and a change in the cell’s secretome. Indeed, senescent cells, also known as zombie cells, produce a large amount of senescence-associated secretory phenotypes (SASP), which are responsible for a pro-inflammatory response, collagen degradation, free-radical production and the transmission of the senescent state.1 The senescence process may be induced by several causes. Ageing is the most common, but another frequent cause is stress, especially oxidative stress that induces inflammation. The combination of ageing and moderated inflammation caused by stress is called inflamm-ageing, also known as a ‘secret killer’. This progressive and insidious phenomenon has visible effects in the long term and prevents the skin from ageing well. When a cell is exposed to stress, there are various possible outcomes. It can be repaired, undergo apoptosis or cell death if it’s too severely damaged, or it can experience senescence. Apoptosis will induce a high-energy expenditure since the cell will have to be replaced, which requires the division of a healthy cell. The same is true for necrosis, which not only consumes less energy, but also requires the remaining healthy cells to replace the eliminated cell. These two processes result in a significant energy impact on the body and skin.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 1 – Scutaline prevents stress-induced premature senescence NHDF were exposed to H2O2 for 2h, and for 3 days in the presence or in the absence of Scutaline. Senescent fibroblasts were observed (A) and quantified (B). Senescent cells appear in blue green. *** p-value<0.001 vs. SIPS cells, n=9-18.

ENHANCED BENEFITS Scutaline (INCI name: Scutellaria baicalensis root extract) is an active ingredient produced from the dried roots of the Scutellaria baicalensis plant, traditionally used in Chinese medicine and naturally rich in baicalein and wogonin polyphenols. Both polyphenols have been described in research to reduce SASP.3 Baicalein is an activator of the Nrf2 pathway. It provides

Did you know? Senescent cells tend to accumulate with age – 20% to 60% of skin’s cells are actually senescent. 2

strong antioxidative benefits by stimulating the production of antioxidants, such as NADP(H): quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO1) and glutathione.4 Baicalein is also a COX-2 inhibitor.5 It inhibits prostaglandin (PGE2) synthesis and participates in reducing inflammatory symptoms like redness and pain. Wogonin is a NFkB inhibitor which provides potent anti-inflammatory benefits.6 It is also responsible for degrading HIF-1⍺ (hypoxia inducible factor-1⍺), which is key for regulating the angiogenesis process that may limit inflammation and redness.7 Using a patented extraction method, the concentration of these two molecules was

SKIN & FACE CARE

Maccallum is proud to be the exclusive distributor of Exsymol products in Southern Africa. Figure 2 – Scutaline prevents senescence spreading NHDF were exposed to H2O2 for 2h and then left for 3-4 days. Cells were then cultivated in the presence or in the absence of Scutaline for 48h. The exosomes were then isolated and applied on normal fibroblasts for 72h. A) The number of exosomes produced was then quantified, B) the miRNA they contain were analysed by qRT-PCR, and C) the collagen I production of fibroblasts exposed to exosomes from SIPS fibroblasts was observed by immunofluorescence and quantified (collagen I appears in green and cell nuclei in blue (DAPI)). *** p-value < 0.001, ** p-value < 0.01, * p-value < 0.05 vs SIPS.

maximised for stronger skin care benefits.

This strategy allows skin that is still relatively young to defend itself against stress.

PREVENTING SENESCENCE Senescent cells present several specific markers such as an increased senescence-associated ß-galactosidase (SA-ß-Gal) activity and have a local impact on the tissue due to the secretion of proinflammatory mediators and an overproduction of MMP-1, which leads to collagen degradation. 2 In order to assess Scutaline’s ability to prevent senescence, human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to H2O 2 for two hours and cultivated for three days, in the presence or absence of Scutaline. While the exposure to H2O 2 led to a dramatic increase in the number of senescent cells, assessed by monitoring SA-ß-Gal activity, treatment with Scutaline (0.1%) decreased the number of senescent cells by 44%. Scutaline provided a 65% protection against stress-induced premature senescence (SIPS) (see Figure 1). By preventing fibroblasts from entering into a senescent state, Scutaline maintains their normal function and regulates their redox status, energy production and production of MMP-1 (data not shown). The active ingredient acts in a preventive mode by limiting the natural process of senescence.

LIMITING INFLAMM-AGEING Senescent cells have the ability to spread senescence. This transmission process is mediated by exosomes, which are small excreted vesicles of endoplasmic origin that contain microRNA (miRNA) specific to certain genes. Once these exosomes reach a nearby cell, they fuse to the membrane and release their content in the cell. miRNA will then inhibit the expression of specific genes in the target cell, triggering the senescence phenotype. 8-10 In order to assess the ability of Scutaline to decrease the capacity of senescent cells to further promote senescence, fibroblasts under SIPS were cultivated for 48 hours in the presence or absence of Scutaline. The number of exosomes was quantified, and the miRNA analysed using quantitative RT-PCR (see Figures 2A and 2B). Senescent cells secrete twice as many exosomes as normal cells and they contain a high amount of miRNA, which will lead to the inhibition of genes involved in key skin parameters, such as hyaluronate synthase or collagen I synthesis. Treatment with Scutaline strongly decreases the number of exosomes

Exsymol, global leaders in silanol technology, are also renowned for their range of natural actives, peptides and amino acids, with clinically optimised bioavailability.

www.maccallum.co.za www.exsymol.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

Figure 3 – Scutaline prevents inflamm’aging A) NHDF were exposed to H2O2 for 2h and then left for 3 days. Cells were then cultivated in the presence or in the absence of Scutaline. The amount of IL-6 secreted was measured using ELISA assay. B, C) LPS-activated macrophages were cultivated in the presence or in the absence of Scutaline for 24h. The productions of NO (B) and PGE2 (C) were measured using spectrophotometry and ELISA assay respectively. ***p-value<0.001

secreted by fibroblasts under SIPS and the amount of miRNA they carry (see Figures 2A and 2B). The active ingredient reduces the inhibition of several key genes. As a result, target cells maintain optimal activity such as their ability to produce collagen (see Figure 2C). By preventing healthy cells from being contaminated by nearby senescent cells, Scutaline maintains optimal collagen production for a denser and firmer skin.

SUPPORTING WELL-AGEING Macrophages are key actors of the innate immune response. Once activated by a danger message such as the presence of bacteria in the tissue, they secrete high levels of ROS (especially nitric oxide (NO)), pro-inflammatory cytokines and lipid mediators such as prostaglandin (PGE2) in order to obliterate it. However, in the case of a chronic inflammation, macrophages are recruited even in the absence of a pathogen. This creates a micro-environment rich in free radicals which maintains the inflammatory reaction while PGE2 may cause pain, redness and/or oedema. Treatment with Scutaline (0.075%) decreased by 24% the amount of IL-6 produced by senescent fibroblasts. Furthermore, in the presence of Scutaline (0.25%), activated macrophages produce 74% and 82% fewer NO and PGE 2 respectively. Collectively this data suggests that Scutaline is capable of decreasing senescence-induced inflammation by reducing the number of recruited macrophages and decreasing the severity of any unspecific response from activated macrophages. The active ingredient may therefore reduce local pain, redness and oedema. This curative effect may thus limit inflamm-ageing in more mature skin while supporting the well-ageing process.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

SKIN CARE BENEFITS By ensuring optimal activity to skin cells and preventing chronic low-grade inflammation, Scutaline may be a good candidate for topical pre-ageing or anti-ageing treatments. In order to assess Scutaline’s anti-ageing properties, 20 female volunteers applied a treatment with 2% Scutaline twice a day on the face for 28 days. The volunteers were divided into two groups: 1. a prevention group (aged 40 to 50) to assess Scutaline’s ability to prevent ageing 2. a correcting group (aged 51 to 68) to assess the ability of the active ingredient to correct the effects of ageing.

most of the benefits after only 14 days of treatment, especially for comfort parameters such as hydration, skin tone and softness. Skin firmness, elasticity and wrinkles were also improved but in a more time-dependent way (see Figure 4A). In the correction group, skin hydration also increased rapidly, redness reached a plateau after only 14 days and firmness and elasticity were steadily increased. Volunteers in this group observed a strong improvement in comfort parameters after only 14 days of treatment while the anti-ageing benefits (skin firmness, elasticity and wrinkles) were slightly delayed when compared to the prevention group (see Figure 4B). Treatment with Scutaline thus globally improves the skin with more rapid benefits seen in skin tone, hydration and softness. The processes that require a biological and/ or biomechanical effect such as firmness, elasticity or wrinkle reduction are also improved, but at the end of the treatment, requiring a longer time (see Figure 4).

CONCLUSION

Several key parameters of the skin were instrumentally measured and assessed by a dermatologist and the volunteers themselves. In both groups, all the assessed skin parameters improved. In the prevention group, skin hydration increased rapidly, redness was steadily improved, and the biomechanical properties were improved by the end of the treatment cycle. This is consistent with the clinical evaluation. Indeed, the patients observed

Senescent cells are responsible for generating a local inflammation while also spreading senescence to other nearby or far away cells. Scutaline is a cosmetic active ingredient capable of fighting senescence in a dual way. It prevents healthy skin cells from becoming senescent after an exposure to a stress (oxidative stress, UV or pollution), and reduces the negative impact of already senescent cells on their environment. The active ingredient causes a rapid reduction in inflammation while increasing skin hydration and comfort. Furthermore, Scutaline ensures the normal activity of skin cells while enhancing firmness and elasticity. Ultimately, it protects against senescence in young skin, while limiting the effects of

SKIN & FACE CARE

Figure 4 – Scutaline improves skin parameters in human volunteers Instrumental measure of skin firmness, elasticity (cutometry), hydration (corneometry) and redness (VISIA), and clinical scoring of several skin parameters by self-evaluation using a scoring method: 1 Very bad ; 2 Moderately bad ; 3 Slightly bad ; 4 Slightly good ; 5 Moderately good ; 6 very good A) Prevention group. B) Correction group.

inflamm-ageing on mature skin. By providing preventive and curative benefits, Scutaline may be a good candidate for supporting the skin during the well-ageing process. •

REFERENCES: 1. Ghosh K, Capell BC. The Senescence-Associated Secretory Phenotype: Critical Effector in Skin Cancer and Aging. J Invest Dermatol. 2016 Nov;136(11):2133-2139. 2. McHugh D, Gil J. Senescence and aging: Causes, consequences, and therapeutic avenues. J Cell Biol. 2018 Jan 2;217(1):65-77.

3. Shimizu T, Shibuya N, Narukawa Y, Oshima N, Hada N, Kiuchi F. Synergistic effect of baicalein, wogonin and oroxylin A mixture: multistep inhibition of the NF-κB signalling pathway contributes to an anti-inflammatory effect of Scutellaria root flavonoids J Nat Med. 2018 Jan;72(1):181-191. 4. Vomund S, Schäfer A, Parnham MJ. Brüne B, von Knothen A. Nrf2, the master regulator of antioxidative stress. Int. J. Mol. Sci., 2017; 18: 2772 5. Yan JJ, Du GH, Qin XM, Gao L. Baicalein attenuates the neuroinflammation in LPS-activated BV-2 microglial cells through suppression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, COX2/NF-κB expressions and regulation of metabolic abnormality. Int Immunopharmacol. 2020 Feb;79:106092 6. You KM, Jong HG, Kim HP. Inhibition of cyclooxygenase/lipoxygenase from human platelets by polyhydroxylated/methoxylated flavonoids isolated from medicinal plants. Arch Pharm Res. 1999 Feb;22(1):18-24. 7. Song X, Yao J, Wang F, Zhou M, Zhou Y, Wang H, Wei L, Zhao L, Li Z, Lu N, Guo Q. Wogonin inhibits tumor angiogenesis via degradation of HIF-1α protein. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 2013 Sep 1;271(2):144-55 8. Xu D, Tahara H. The role of exosomes and microRNAs in senescence and aging. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2013 Mar;65(3):368-75. 9. Urbanelli L, Buratta S, Sagini K, Tancini B, Emiliani C. Extracellular Vesicles as New Players in Cellular Senescence. Int J Mol Sci. 2016 Aug 26;17(9) 10. Terlecki-Zaniewicz L, Lämmermann I, Latreille J, Bobbili MR, Pils V, Schosserer M, Weinmüllner R, Dellago H, Skalicky S, Pum D, Almaraz JCH, Scheideler M, Morizot F, Hackl M, Gruber F, Grillari J. Small extracellular vesicles and their miRNA cargo are anti-apoptotic members of the senescence associated secretory phenotype. Aging (Albany NY). 2018 May 19;10(5):1103-1132

Exsymol – www.exsymol.com/en Maccallum – www.maccallum.co.za

2020/2021

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

Add to your clean beauty basket with coco-caprylate/caprate Clean beauty is evolving with brand transparency now a key requirement of this movement. In support of the needs of clean beauty brands and their consumers, Vantage Specialty Chemicals offers Liponate CCC MB as a 100% naturally-derived alternative to silicone oils. By Kim MacCallum

he demand for clean is dovetailed with the rise of the broader wellness movement, specifically clean-eating lifestyles, which embrace unrefined and minimally processed foods. It has also been fuelled by growing awareness of the tougher regulations that govern cosmetics in other parts of the world. The European Union, for instance, has banned approximately 1 300 chemicals in cosmetics, a category that covers makeup, lotions, hair dyes, deodorant, nail polish, shaving cream and other beauty products. Consumers are increasingly attracted to clean beauty, staying away from at-risk ingredients and so-called ‘no-no’ lists. Silicones are included in these lists. Not only is clean beauty a growing demand but so is sustainable beauty. Vantage Specialty Chemicals has been a certified member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) since 2014 and is committed to achieving certification for a large selection of its products. RSPO has set up two certification systems: 1. producer/grower certification to ensure palm oil is produced sustainably 2. principles and criteria certification to ensure the integrity of the trade in sustainable palm oil, i.e. that palm oil sold

Did you know? A quick Google search of cococaprylate/caprate is quite reassuring, as you’ll find it is listed as a good choice on clean beauty websites, such as EWG.org and Paulaschoice.com.

as sustainable palm oil has indeed been produced by certified plantations.

GOOD ALTERNATIVE TO SILICONES Silicone-free claims have surged over the past five years. As a result, brands are looking at naturally-derived alternatives to replace a broad array of silicone oils, such as dimethicone, and cyclopentasiloxane. Within the new regulatory landscape, on 10 January 2018, silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) were added to REACH annex XVII restricted substances list (entry 70) by Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/35. This means D4 and D5 shall not be placed on the market in wash-off cosmetic products in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight of either substance. (application date: 31 January 2020)

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is working on additional proposals to restrict D4 and D5 in leave-on personal care products and other consumer/professional products. As a leading supplier of specialty emollients, Vantage created Liponate CCC MB (coco-caprylate/caprate – mass balance RSPO certified) as an alternative to silicone oils. Liponate CCC MB is a fast-spreading emollient ester that provides a dry, velvety and smooth skin feel similar to the sensory feel of silicones, particularly low viscosity dimethicone. This dry-feel emollient ester fits perfectly in the clean beauty basket as it is COSMOS natural certified and of 100% natural origin.

SUPERIOR TO THE STANDARD OFFERING Liponate CCC MB is not your standard coco-caprylate/caprate. Analysis of the high molecule chain length distribution compared to existing coco-caprylate/ caprate emollients, show Liponate CCC MB exhibits the lowest amount of long chains (C22 and larger). This composition differentiates Vantage’s product by giving it fast-spreading, light

"This dry-feel emollient ester fits perfectly in the clean beauty basket as it is COSMOS natural certified and of 100% natural origin” Figure 1: Results of the comparison between Liponate CCC MB and other coco-caprylate/caprate products on the market

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

SKIN & FACE CARE

Double blind sensory evaluations were conducted on Liponate CCC MB and other popular silicones and esters and the results were highly comparable, often resulting in better absorption. A moisturisation study was conducted using two formulations – one with 11% Liponate CCC MB and the other with 11% dimethicone versus untreated skin. Liponate CCC MB offered a 240% increase in moisturisation versus dimethicone when measured over a six-hour period. It has been rumoured that as cococaprylate/caprate presents a high level of biocompatibility with skin, giving it the ability to penetrate skin, helping it to repair itself.

EXCELLENT FOR HAIR CARE touch and powdery characteristics, making Liponate CCC MB a great candidate for makeup and sun care formulations. The results of the comparison are featured in Figure 1.

As silicones are also popular in hair care applications, we did not stop at skin care and chose to also conduct a hair care analysis. In a hair tress study, five tresses were prewashed with a 10% SLES solution

and combability measured pre- and post-treatment. Compared to the placebo – Liponate CC MB provided a 39% reduction in comb work and a 22% reduction versus D5 silicone. On dry hair, Liponate CCC MB provided combing improvement as well as shine similar to that of D5 silicone. It also offered a 58% increase in protection when using a straight iron at 230°C. These results demonstrate that Liponate CCC MB is a perfect, all round clean beauty ingredient for skin and hair care applications. It has good compatibility with pigments and mineral and organic sun filters. It is ISO16128 compliant, 100% naturally derived, COSMOS natural approved and RSPO MB certified. The ingredient can be used with oil-free and silicone-free claims and offers excellent heat stability. •

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

A simplified solution to

amplify beauty Ageing starts as early as in our 30s with expression wrinkles and continues in all the layers of the skin. To slow this process, Lubrizol Life Science, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, presents a new multifunctional ingredient, Argireline Amplified, which visibly transforms tired, dull, ageing skin into a glowing and youthful complexion. By Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Elena CaĂąadas, Eulalia Gonzalez and Raquel Delgado

n this overwhelming world, the minimalist trend is gaining popularity. Many consumers seek out a lifestyle driven less

by accumulation and consumption and more by simplicity. In skin care, this has manifested in the skip-care trend, which involves skipping unnecessary steps and products to focus on harder-working multitasking products to maintain effectiveness. Although beauty routines are becoming shorter and simpler with the minimalist movement, skin should still be treated in an integral manner. Over the years, ageing-related changes take place in each layer of the skin, leading to different visible manifestations. For instance, an aged epidermis leads to a poor barrier function; ageing in the dermis leads to a decrease in firmness and the appearance of wrinkles and sagginess; and lower facial volume is observed due to an aged adipose tissue. Finally, ageing facial muscles play a role in the loss of physical support to the skin and are involved in the formation of expression wrinkles. These wrinkles start to become evident around the age of 30 as a result of excessive stimulation of muscle fibres in the face, which pull the skin inwards and cause wrinkling of the skin surface. Functional changes occur with ageing in muscle cells, resulting in a slower relaxation after contraction, further contributing to the permanence of visible wrinkles on the face.1 Muscles are contracted when they receive the neurotransmitters released from vesicles by motor neurons. In the pre-synaptic part of this mechanism, occurring in motor neurons, the entry of calcium triggers the assembly of the SNARE complex, which mediates the release of neurotransmitters.2 The postsynaptic mechanism, occurring in muscle cells, involves stimulation of contraction by the neurotransmitters, followed by the return to a resting state.

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Did you know? Argireline Amplified peptide is an hexapeptide designed and produced according to the principles of green chemistry, which reduces the environmental impact and meets market demands for cleaner and safer ingredients.

AGEING DUE TO SENESCENCE Cellular senescence is one of the key phenomena that drives ageing in all different tissues and cell types of the skin. This is a state of irreversible cell growth arrest in response to different stresses, such as DNA damage, telomere shortening, radiation and reactive metabolites.3 Chronologically-aged and photoaged skins are known to accumulate senescent cells, which stop dividing, show morphological and metabolic changes and become resistant to apoptosis. They also secrete factors known as the senescenceassociated secretory phenotypes (SASPs), which induce senescence in neighbouring cells

and end up promoting tissue deterioration and loss of its key functions.4 Argireline Amplified peptide was created as an essential beauty ingredient packed with all the desirable efficacy. It was developed as an evolution of the well-known Argireline peptide, as it offers superior activity in attenuating muscle contraction. It has the added benefit of enhancing muscle relaxation to recover a relaxed skin appearance after making facial expressions. The ingredient can also help provide multilayer skin care through regulation of the senescence, which drives the loss of functionality and age-related changes for overall better-looking skin.

SOFTER CONTRACTION AND FASTER RELAXATION Various studies showed that Argireline Amplified peptide can regulate the pre-synaptic mechanism of muscle contraction with increased efficacy, when compared to Argireline peptide. The new peptide was more effective than the benchmark for expression wrinkles at

Young muscle

63% faster relaxation

Aged muscle

31% faster relaxation

Figure 1: Force curve examples of each condition, showing contraction and relaxation of muscle models

SKIN & FACE CARE

0 days

5 days

28 days

Figure 2: 3D topography images of the crow’s feet area of a volunteer

inhibiting formation of the SNARE complex and reducing the release of neurotransmitters. Argireline Amplified peptide acts at the postsynaptic level to regulate muscle functionality. Working in collaboration with the research group of Dr Samuel Sánchez of the Institute

"There was a global reduction of visible fine lines and the surface area of such lines decreased by 14.7%” for Bioengineering of Catalonia (IBEC), 3D bioprinting was used to create 3D human skeletal muscle tissues, which allow for the study of muscle activity. Ageing was induced in the muscles by incubation with tumour necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) and some of the muscle models were treated with 2mg/ml Argireline Amplified peptide. All 3D muscle samples were evaluated for their functionality, described with force values and relaxation half-times (the shorter the time, the faster the relaxation of the muscle after contraction). The peptide reduced the strength of muscle contraction, while providing faster muscle relaxation, decreasing the

relaxation half-time of young and aged muscles by 63% and 31%, respectively (see Figure 1).

VISIBLY IMPROVING WRINKLE APPEARANCE A panel of female volunteers aged between 34 and 60 years applied a cream containing 2% Argireline Amplified peptide solution on half the face and a placebo cream on the other half, twice a day for 28 days. The ability of the ingredient to attenuate expression wrinkles was evaluated on the crow’s feet area after five and 28 days of treatment, using PRIMOS 3D. The area of wrinkles on the crow’s feet area decreased by 11.3% after five days and by 12.4% after 28 days (see Figure 2).

POST-EXPRESSION SKIN RELAXATION A group of female volunteers aged between 32 and 60 years applied a cream containing 2% Argireline Amplified peptide solution or a placebo cream on the whole face, twice a day for 28 days. Skin roughness was analysed by means of PRIMOS, 60 seconds after relaxing and smiling facial expressions. The same evaluation

We are reaching new horizons in anti-aging... and so can you. Contact us today to nd out how.

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SKIN & FACE CARE 0 days (60 sec. postexpression)

28 days (60 sec. postexpression)

the microtissues were measured by using the Adipored reagent assay. With the peptide, lipid accumulation was 18.8% higher despite the presence of pro-senescence conditions.

RESTORING SKIN FIRMNESS

Figure 3: Images of the crow’s feet of one volunteer, taken 60 seconds after smiling

was performed before and after 28 days of treatment (see Figure 3). In the evolution between a smiling and postsmile state, skin roughness decreased by 5.9% in the crow’s feet and 7.4% in the nasogenian fold after 28 days of application of the active cream.

MULTI-LEVEL SENESCENCE REGULATION The efficacy of the Argireline Amplified peptide expands to all the levels of the skin, counteracting senescence, which drives a loss of functionality and age-related changes.

RESTORING MYOAGEING In the muscle, senescence has been associated with myoageing, a process that makes muscle fibres thinner and reduces their ability to support the skin properly. Myoageing was induced in vitro in muscle cells through incubation with tumour necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α). The cells were then treated with 10µg/ml Argireline Amplified peptide for 48 hours. Muscle fibres were visualised with immunofluorescence and their diameter measured to determine the percentage of myoageing. Argireline Amplified peptide helped to restore muscle loss induced by ageing (see Figure 4).

RECOVERY OF ADIPOGENESIS The functionality of adipose tissue is impaired with age as senescent adipocytes decrease their production of lipids, which leads to minor facial volume. 3D adipose tissue spheroids were created from human preadipocytes coming from donors of different ages and were differentiated in the presence or the absence of 10µg/ml Argireline Amplified peptide. Levels of lipids in Control

TNF-α

Fibroblasts become senescent with age, losing their ability to produce extracellular matrix components, which has a negative impact on the mechanical properties of the skin, such as firmness and elasticity. Age-related changes in skin firmness were studied in vitro by making mechano-physical measurements of human skin biopsies from donors of different ages, in a study done in collaboration with the Unit of Biophysics and Bioengineering from the University of Barcelona. Biopsies were treated with Argireline Amplified peptide for 40 hours. The skin strips were then subjected to tensile stretching to determine the force needed to elongate them a certain distance, and Young’s elastic modulus (KPa) was measured. Younger skin required 250KPa to elongate to 30% of its initial length, while older skin required only 100KPa, showing that firmness is lost with age. However, when older skin was treated with the peptide, the force needed was increased, suggesting a recovery of skin firmness.

COUNTERING BARRIER FUNCTION DECLINE With the increase in cellular senescence in epidermal keratinocytes, the quality of skin’s barrier function is affected. Skin also becomes more fragile and prone to irritation and dehydration. Epidermal skin models from a 51-yearold (yo) donor were treated with Argireline Amplified peptide for 24 hours or were left untreated. Models from an 18 yo donor were used as a control. The expression of genes involved in the skin barrier function was analysed by RNA sequencing. With ageing, there was a significant reduction in the expression of genes related to the epidermal barrier. Argireline Amplified peptide counteracted the dysfunction of epidermal barrier function that takes place with age. TNF-α + Argireline Amplified peptide

Figure 4: Images of muscle fibres, with myosin-heavy chain staining in red and cell nuclei in blue

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

IMPROVEMENT IN TISSUE FUNCTIONALITY Two panels of 41 and 40 female volunteers between 35 and 60 yo applied a cream containing 2% Argireline Amplified peptide solution on half the face and a placebo cream on the other half, twice a day for 28 days. Different parameters relating to a better and younger-looking skin were evaluated at different time points during the treatment. The peptide helped improve skin roughness, fine lines, isotropy, radiance, firmness, elasticity, skin fatigue and facial volume, while offering a lifting effect for an overall better and younger-looking skin appearance. After 14 days, the presence of fine lines on the skin surface was measured on the crow’s feet area and underneath the eye, by means of image analysis software. There was a global reduction of visible fine lines and the surface area of such lines decreased by 14.7%. Argireline Amplified peptide helped reduce the sagginess of skin and an average reduction in the face contour of 1.55% was measured after 28 days of treatment.

CONCLUSION Argireline Amplified peptide is an evolution of Argireline peptide, a new molecule with superior activity in neuronal signalling and with added muscle relaxation effects that allow it to maintain beautiful facial expressions while minimising wrinkles. The peptide also presents a multi-level regulation of senescence and age-related changes that drive loss of functionality in the skin. As shown in vivo, this results in a visible rejuvenating effect, helping improve skin roughness, fine lines, skin isotropy, radiance, firmness, elasticity and skin fatigue, while providing volumising and lifting benefits. This multifunctional active is produced following a deep commitment to apply the principles of green chemistry to the whole process, to provide the market with greener ingredients for more sustainable beauty products. • REFERENCES: 1. Choi S. Age-related functional changes and susceptibility to eccentric contraction-induced damage in skeletal muscle cell. Integr. Med. Res. 5:171-175, 2016. 2. Blanes-Mira C, Merino JM, Valera E, et al. Small peptides patterned after the N-terminus domain of SNAP25 inhibit SNARE complex assembly and regulated exocytosis. J Neurochem. 88:124-135, 2004. 3. Xu M, et al. Targeting senescent cells enhances adipogenesis and metabolic function in old age. eLIFE. 4:E12997, 2015. 4. Childs B, Van Deursen J. An evolving picture of cell senescence. Nature. 566, 2019

Lubrizol Life Science - www.lubrizol.com/beauty Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

SKIN & FACE CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT

Plant-and-ocean-based personal care ingredients The global personal care market is evolving at a rapid rate and becoming even more complex in the process. Consumers demand more transparency on the composition, production and supply chain of their products. This is the main driver for the back-to-nature trend, with consumers seeking products that are natural, ethically- and sustainably-sourced, and produced by using and generating as minimal hazardous substances as possible.

RS supports customers in aligning with the back-to-nature trend. The home and personal care business unit of JRS offers a portfolio of natural and biodegradable ingredients sourced from cellulose, fruit, grain and algae. These ingredients are COSMOS-certified, allergen- and GMO-free and can be used in vegan formulations. With the move towards ‘skin food’, implying more food-grade ingredients for personal care formulations, the JRS product portfolio is also halal- and kosher-certified. The portfolio offers natural alternatives for synthetic microbeads and effect powders as well as ‘liquid plastics’, with a wide variety of application areas including hair, skin, sun and oral care, plus hygiene and colour cosmetics.

NATURAL RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS The VIVAPUR® and VIVASTAR® ranges can be effectively used as natural rheology modifiers. VIVAPUR® CS Tex Easy can be used as a thickener and stabiliser with a non-sticky feel, making it particularly suitable for sun care formulations. VIVASTAR® CS 132 HV modifies rheology

Did you know? JRS Rettenmaier South Africa is a member of the family-owned J. Rettenmaier Group, with 140+ years of experience. Its headquarters are in Rosenberg, Germany with over 3 500 employees worldwide. The company is an expert in sustainable, natural and biodegradable ingredients and one of the largest producers of INCI: Cellulose and INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose products worldwide, with global regulatory, technical and service network support as well as local operational support. The company also has regional production and logistics centres based in Europe, the United States and Asia. by forming a transparent gel and is suitable for clear applications. The range of rheology modifiers also contains the VIVASTAR® CS Alginates produced using specially-sourced alginates from Landerneu, France.

ECO-FRIENDLY EXFOLIANTS AND EFFECT POWDERS The VITACEL® and VIVAPUR® ranges offer the discerning formulator an alternative to synthetic microbeads as a suitable exfoliant, abrasive or scrub. Products of varying particle size are available depending on the extent of exfoliation required. The various grades are ideally suited for use in body and facial scrubs, toothpastes and hair products to massage the scalp. These natural exfoliants are the perfect balance between aesthetics and functionality as they come in a range of colours. JRS also offers a range of products as alternatives to

synthetic powders and fibres. The VIVAPUR® and VITACEL® grades are good substitutes for commonly-used PMMA, nylon, PE, boron nitride and silica powders and fibres. These are increasingly used as effect powders to enhance the sensory experience. The VIVAPUR® and VITACEL® range can assist in achieving improved spreadability while supporting wrinkle smoothing, mattifying, opacity and smoothness claims.

AWARD-WINNING PRODUCTS The VITACEL® range includes products sourced from apple, orange, oats and green tea, providing formulators with a toolbox of products from different sources and with various particle sizes, morphology and colour options. The VITACEL® fruit and grain fibres are an example of JRS living the circular economy concept. By-products of the food industry – apple, orange and oats, for example – are 100% utilised in a unique mechanical process creating the finest sensory enhancers. These easily biodegradable ingredients close the circular economy loop. In 2019, JRS received the BadenWürttemberg Environmental Technology Award for its VITACEL® and VIVAPUR® ranges, which, when used in personal care and cosmetic applications, are an ideal microplastic replacement made of plant fibres. The company’s sustainability initiatives have also been recognised with a PCHi Fountain Award. •

Email: info@rettenmaier.co.za Phone: 011 534 8619

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

#rethinkbeautiful

skin with carotenoids

We’re frequently told to ‘love the skin we’re in’, but how often do we really practice this? Over the years, we have come to realise that maintaining skin health and wellness is a lifelong journey that begins on the inside, which houses our inner glow. With this notion in mind, Lycored created Lycomato, a proprietary carotenoid blend that supports skin health and appearance.

s ingestible skin care becomes increasingly mainstream, Lycored’s ‘beauty from within’ message is resonating even more with consumers. The company, which is represented locally by SK Chemtrade, started the #rethinkbeautiful movement to help consumers define what makes them look and feel their best. This included a Letters of Love campaign, with letter writing stations, both digital and at key locations worldwide, where passersby could jot down what makes them feel beautiful. The campaign received an overwhelming response, with over 4 900 notes contributed so far. Being connected to our bodies and nourishing them properly are universally crucial steps. A balanced diet not only helps us feel good, but also helps us look good, as we all aspire to achieve a healthy glow. It’s magnetic on an instinctual level and draws in others. When we’re at our best, our natural radiance is optimised. According to Lycored, Lycomato can help consumers achieve their ultimate glow by supporting wellness, and skin specifically. Studies have found that dietary carotenoid-induced skin colour could be interpreted as a sign of vitality, and therefore attractiveness. In one study, when healthy highcarotenoid colour was presented as facial skin colour, participants rated the faces as more attractive than those with unhealthy or low-carotenoid skin colour. The results indicated that healthy skin colour is found attractive because it is a

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 1: The absorption spectrums of phytonutrients found in tomatoes

"Lycored created Lycomato because it believes healthy skin starts from within” sign of current condition, not because of a sensory bias towards yellow shades.1

PROPRIETARY WELLNESS EXTRACT The earth inspires Lycored’s daily operations. This is why the company’s lycopene production process is vertically integrated, so it can account for every step. The company’s ideas are sparked by nature’s simple, pure beauty. Lycored created Lycomato because it believes healthy skin starts from within. Yet, it

was the exterior of the company’s hero fruit that truly clarified Lycored’s mission. The blend of whole-food tomato extract in Lycomato is carefully calibrated to maximise the synergy of the ingredients. The standardised extract contains the optimal concentrations of lycopene, phytoene and phytoluene to help support skin health and appearance. The proprietary wellness extract has been proven safe and effective in several clinical trials and is formulated to help with the following: • nourish the skin with skin beautifying nutrients • balance the feel of skin smoothness and hydration • maintain the skin’s natural collagen • balance the skin’s natural signs of ageing

SKIN & FACE CARE

KEY TAKEAWAYS ON LYCOMATO • Lycored’s trials and studies represent the company’s dedication to putting wellness first and show that the selection of products perform as promised. • Customers can trust in the quality of Lycored’s award-winning proprietary blend, which offers broadspectrum protection, to prevent photoageing and support skin beauty. • Lycored’s love letter campaign represents the company’s commitment to bring its #rethinkbeautiful mission to the world, helping consumers understand the connection between carotenoids and skin health.

Figure 1 illustrates the absorption spectrums of phytonutrients found in tomatoes. Lycopene, phytoene, and phytoluene can protect against UV light damage and oxidative stress. Lycopene is an antioxidant capable of hindering the effects of reactive oxygen species. It accumulates and metabolises in the skin, providing a first line of defence against damaging UV light. 2 Combining lycopene, phytoene and phytoluene has shown that these carotenoids exhibit protective action across a broader range of UV light, including UVA and UVB wavelengths. In a simulated solar UV light study, this particular combination was found to be more effective than lycopene alone in

reducing erythema following UV exposure. 3 UV damage is the number one preventable cause of perceived ageing and is responsible for about 80% of facial skin ageing. This is how the polyphenols and carotenoids like lycopene in Lycomato work hard from the inside out to protect against UV damage, keeping skin looking and feeling healthy. • REFERENCES: 1. Lefevre, et al., Biology Letters: It is all in the face: Carotenoid skin coloration loses attractiveness outside the face. 2013. 2. Stahl, W. et al., 2003. Antioxidant activity of carotenoids. Molecular Aspects of Medicine. 24:345-351. 3. Aust, O. et al., 2005. Supplementation with tomato-based products increases lycopene, phyto¬luene, and phytoene levels in human serum and protects against UV-light-induced erythema. Int J Vitam Nutr Res.

Lycored – www.lycored.com SK Chemtrade – www.skchemtrade.co.za

• The meticulous attention to detail throughout Lycored’s production process means that ingredients from the company, like its whole plant

Offering Lycored’s basket of skin health ingredients, including the well-known Lyc-O-Mato™

blend, are of the utmost quality.

Please email colleen@skchemtrade.co.za for more information on this premium ingredient for Beauty from Within

• supports skin’s natural anti-oxidant defence • detox the skin by boosting the natural support mechanism of skin cells • supports oxygen saturation • the body’s natural ability to calm inflammation • clear the skin • support overall vitality that is reflected in the skin • support suppleness and boost elasticity. Lycored’s Lycomato can be formulated into liquid filled capsules, gummies and emulsions for ready-todrink type products.

FULL PROTECTION GUARANTEED While Lycopene is vibrant red in colour, its phytonutrient cousins phytoene and phytoluene are completely colourless. However, these nutrients are just as beneficial and are the key to many synergistic activations. After extensive research, Lycored uncovered how its tomato nutrient complex protects skin on the molecular level from UV damage by boosting skin’s natural defensive mechanisms. As a result, skin cells are better able to cope with environmental challenges and maintain normal oxidative and inflammatory status.

Website: www.skchemtrade.co.za | JHB: 011 974 1124 | CPT: 021 551 0681

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

Come out of the shadows with Hyalufix GL Have you ever wondered why some people look radiant and glowing, whilst other people’s skin appears dull and lack lustre? According to BASF Beauty Care Solutions, there is a physical aspect that accounts for this – it is a unique balance between shadow and light that either enhances or detracts from one’s beauty.

hadows appear in different areas of the face, exacerbated by tiredness and often become more noticeable with age. Examples include dark under eye circles, hollowed areas in the cheeks, lines around the mouth and shadows under the chin as a result of weight loss or thinning of the skin. The popular skin care ingredient, hyaluronic acid is an ideal solution to address shadows. Already widely recognised as an effective skin plumper, filler and hydrating agent, hyaluronic acid works on different levels, depending on its form. In fragments, it offers moisturising benefits; at a higher molecular weight it is both texturising and moisturising, yet it cannot address wrinkles as it does not penetrate the skin. However, hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight has 3D volume-enhancing properties. BASF has harnessed this discovery in the new Hyalufix GL, a galanga leaf extract of hyaluronic acid that is ideal for skin care applications.

Did you know? Hyalufix GL has been shortlisted for an in-cosmetics Global Green Ingredient Award 2020. These awards recognise a raw material or ingredient that makes a significant environmental and/or social difference in the area of sustainability.

• • • • •

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

THE ADVANTAGES OF HYALUFIX GL

Hyalufix GL creates volume from within

EFFECTIVE RADIANCE BOOSTER Hyaluronic acid is produced in the skin by the hyaluronan synthase family. There are three types of hyaluronic acid, including HAS-2, which is the only type capable of producing hyaluronic acid with HMW. The production of HAS-2 leads to the induction of this precious molecule that enhances skin volume from within. BASF found that galanga leaf extract has the unique ability to stimulate this enzyme and proved in vitro that the synthesis of HAS-2 results in a quantifiable increase in the production of hyaluronic acid. As a result, Hyalufix GL in a 2% concentration doubles the amount of hyaluronic acid produced in vitro. A clinical study conducted on 50 women who applied Hyalufix GL in a 3% concentration showed that the active ingredient decreases nasolabial folds more effectively than a market leading antiwrinkle peptide. After three months, a visible decrease was noted in the appearance

• • • • •

boosts the synthesis of HAS-2 visibly restores density to the dermis reduces nasolabial folds within four weeks helps erase shadows assists to correct deep face wrinkles through serum plumping. A panel of 25 women, between 42 to 65 years old made the following observations after one month of using Hyalufix GL at 3% in a formulation: • an 84% increase in skin radiance • 63% improvement in volume and density of skin • 68% reduction in wrinkles including crow’s feet. of nasolabial folds. After one month, the panellists themselves found that their faces were increasingly radiant and voluminous. BASF has created a 3D wrinkle filler and shadow eraser using Hyalufix GL. The active ingredient is also a part of the hyaluronic acid wrinkle filler family produced by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, which also includes hyaluronic filling spheres. These ingredients are available in South Africa from Botanichem. • BASF Beauty Care Solutions – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

SKIN & FACE CARE

Journey to less plastic with solid products

Represented locally by AECI Specialty Chemicals, Innospec is promoting a journey to less plastic, with the desire to educate formulators on how to use solid surfactants and concentrated products, to develop effective, solid formulations that satisfy consumers’ needs.

nnospec’s promise when formulating to reduce plastic and water usage is to offer a variety of concentrated ingredients and solid formulations that require less water and are free from packaging. The company also endeavours to provide ingredients that are easy to rinse off and require less water when in use. Its concentrated solutions reduce transportation costs, while its innovative approach provides support and inspiration for packaging, such as aluminium and recyclable options for environmentally friendly products.

INGREDIENTS ON OFFER For designing concentrated or waterfree products, Innospec offers the following ingredients: • Activsoft CD – a low viscosity guar for use in opaque and clear-in-hand liquid soap bar formulations

"Innospec can provide easy ways to use less plastic packaging“

Did you know? Iselux was a breakthrough in surfactant technology when it was launched in 2009. Today it features in hundreds of personal care products including market leading brands. As a mild sulfate-free surfactant, Iselux creates a dense, luxurious foam and elegant after-feel. It produces good slip, low tack on drying and it can also be used to prepare structured systems allowing high levels of oil to be incorporated into formulations without loss of foaming performance. • Iselux – a unique, sulfate-free surfactant in flake form • Pureact TR-L90 – an easy-to-use, flakeform taurate surfactant that is also unique • Pureact SNDT-65 – an optimised blend designed for mild syndet/combo bars which enhances processing efficiency and consumer performance • Pureact I-78 – a powder-form, sulfatefree isethionate surfactant • Empicol XCT 14 – a sulfate- and EOfree concentrated surfactant blend in paste form.

VARIOUS CLEANSING APPLICATIONS Innospec’s solid formulation range includes shampoo and conditioner bars,

powder shampoos and facial cleansers. Innospec can provide easy ways to use less plastic packaging for the products consumers use every day. Its technical team is ready to help you with your next project. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com Innospec – personalcare@innospecinc.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

SKIN & FACE CARE

In support of cleansing – the overlooked skin care step Cleansing is a key part of a skin care routine, but this essential step often gets overlooked in favour of more novel products, such as moisturisers and colour cosmetics. However, according to Alchemy Ingredients, this is the most important step of a skin care regime in order to prepare the skin as a blank canvas.

emoving dirt and grease by cleaning skin is an ancient ritual dating back to prehistoric times. The first ‘soap’ was made from ash and animal fat; the Romans built luxurious baths where cleansing could take place as a social communal activity. The first commercial soap bar was marketed by Pears in the UK in 1884 and synthetic surfactants became mainstream in the 1940s. Since then, ever more sophisticated ingredients have become available with consumers often looking for mildness coupled with care for the environment, which presents formulators with new challenges.

BAR CLEANSERS – NOT JUST SOAP Traditionally this category consists mainly of soap, in the form of the sodium salt of a vegetable oil fatty acid, e.g. sodium palm kernelate or sodium cocoate. Often glycerine, a by-product of the manufacturing process, is left in the product for additional moisturising claims. Unfortunately, the resulting blend often has a high pH which can lead to skin irritation and can also dry the skin, even if it is effective at removing grease and dirt. Retail brands such as Lush have made soap popular again with its novelty products and have also introduced a new type of cleansing bar based on oils and butters. These bars melt at skin temperature to produce an oil, which can be removed using a hot cloth. Ingredients such as sugar esters or saponins can also be added to this type of formulation to make the oil easier to remove. Other types of bar cleanser include those with solid synthetic surfactants – a classic example is Unilever’s Dove bar, which uses the isethionates in combination with a traditional soap base to bring the pH down and provide mildness. Sugar esters could be added to this type of bar to improve mildness and provide natural foam boosting. One of the main advantages of the bar format is little plastic packaging, together with no water in the formulation. The products are also highly concentrated and ideal for travelling.

FOAMING CLEANSERS This sector remains popular due to ease of use and the fact that foam is seen as evidence that a product is working. For facial cleansers,

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"Cleansing will continue to be a product sector where innovation and performance are key“ mildness and foam type are important. A dense, creamy foam is most desired, often obtained by using non-SLES detergents such as the isethionates, sulfosuccinates and glutamates. Foam boosters such as quillaja saponins or sugar esters can be a useful addition due to their mildness and production of a creamy foam that lasts longer on the skin. Quillaja saponins in particular have been used by South American people for centuries and leave the skin moisturised as well as cleansed. Another product format in this category is the mousse pump; this is where a liquid surfactant blend is dispensed through a non-aerosol aerating pump to produce a dense mousse. Suitable ingredients for this format include mild surfactants such as sulfosuccinates, together with foam boosters such as protein and saponins.

GEL-TO-MILK CLEANSERS Also known as melting gel cleansers, there are now a number of these on the market. They are a credible alternative to the traditional bar and foaming type of cleanser. High in oil, gel to milk cleansers are applied as a thick, often transparent gel and massaged over the face to remove waterproof makeup. When water is applied, the product transforms into a milk and is rinsed away. The advantage of these type of products is that they are based on oil, which dissolves waterproof makeup

SKIN & FACE CARE

effectively, with an additional moisturising and nourishing benefit. The products are usually 100% natural and do not contain preservatives due to the low level of water in the formulation. The production of moisturising milk during the process leaves the skin feeling soft, not tight, and some consumers report a visible benefit of using this type of non-foaming cleanser over time. The ingredients used to design these cleansers are often based on sucrose esters or polyglycerol esters, which can create transparent formulations using a range of oils, including natural vegetable oils. Products can either be put into a jar or a tube depending on the final viscosity.

such as alkanes, hydrocarbons, or esters are often included. If a more natural product is required then vegetable oils can be used, along with natural emulsifiers such as sugar esters or polyglycerol esters.

DOUBLE CLEANSING

into a pump for easy dispensing and to reduce wastage.

MICELLAR WATER BALM CLEANSERS The function of a balm is to soothe and moisturise, and this type of cleanser will often have a translucent or opaque appearance to convey a rich feel. Normally created with natural oils and waxes, these will melt onto the face to give an oily residue that can be removed with a cloth or with warm water. Certain ingredients such as Polyglycerol esters, Sucrose Esters and Saponins can be added to the product to make it more rinseable.

FACIAL OIL CLEANSERS There are several types of oil-based liquid cleansers on the market with waterproof makeup-removing claims. The first type is a straightforward oil blend, which works by simply dissolving makeup and is removed using a cloth or cotton wool. The second type will have an appearance of a transparent oil but is in fact a microemulsion with added water and/or glycerine. There are several advantages of this type of product. Firstly, it is easily removed with water because it’s an emulsion, which turns to milk giving a transforming effect. Secondly, it will often remove makeup, dirt and grease more effectively because emulsifiers are present in the formulation as well as a combination of oil- and watersoluble ingredients. A further advantage of the liquid format is that it can be packaged

A relatively new and trendy cleansing concept, micellar waters consist of a surfactant dissolved in a pH-controlled water base and are normally transparent and have a low viscosity. The term ‘micellar’ refers to the fact that detergents arrange themselves in tiny spherical particles in water, with the hydrophilic part of the molecule facing outwards. When applied to a cloth or cotton wool, they will dissolve makeup effectively by trapping material within the hydrophobic core of the micelle. Many types of surfactant can be used, however the milder detergents such as isethionates, sulfosuccinates, amphodiacetates, glutamates and glycinates are popular. If a completely natural product is preferred, saponins and sucrose esters can be used, both of which are COSMOS natural approved.

CLEANSING MILK If a more traditional or classic product is preferred, a cleansing milk is a good option. This has the dual benefit of moisturising while removing makeup. As the formulations are usually oil-in-water emulsions, both oil-and-water soluble products can be removed easily. Cleansing milks do not normally need to be rinsed off; the residue can act as a moisturiser, leaving a light barrier on the skin. Oils capable of removing makeup

This system originated in South Korea, where multiple cleansing rituals are a norm and up to 10 steps can be carried out in a single session. Double cleansing combines several steps in two sequentially used products. The first step is normally an oil-based cleanser such as a facial cleansing oil, gelto-milk or rich cream cleanser. Here the aim is to remove waterproof makeup and moisturise the skin, getting it ready for the next step. In the second step, the product is usually water based and can take the form of a liquid or gel toner with astringent ingredients such as witch hazel, or a water-based mask with exfoliating ingredients such as charcoal or clay. This step removes any residue of oil and makeup left on the skin from step one, and ensures the skin is completely free of dirt and excess grease. Packaging for these products can be very inventive, with separate chambers for the two different formulations. Many of these products will be sold as a set and are popular within the premium market.

THE FORMULATION CHALLENGE Cleansing will continue to be a product sector where innovation and performance are key. As waterproof and self-tanning makeup becomes more effective, cleansers must also be able to remove these products. This presents a challenge for the formulator, particularly when vegetable-based products and concern for the environment are factored into the equation. Ingredients used in facial skin care must also be suitable for sensitive skin, making options such as sucrose esters, saponins and polyglycerol esters a good choice as they have a high degree of mildness. The South African agent for Alchemy Ingredients is Carst & Walker. • Alchemy Ingredients – www.alchemy-ingredients.com Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

INDUSTRY TALK

Reshaping realities around Africa’s postpandemic recovery The COVID-19 pandemic has undoubtedly eroded the overall improvement in riskreward scores seen across the African continent, but this should not deter investors. Specialist risk consultancy, Control Risks and independent global advisory NKC African Economics, the Africa-focused subsidiary of Oxford Economics, have just launched the fifth edition of the Africa Risk-Reward Index, which captures the evolution of the investment environment and risk landscape in major African markets.

he index offers a comparative snapshot of market opportunities

and risks across the continent. It provides a grounded, longer-term outlook of key trends shaping the investment landscape in major African economies, which should inform the strategies of organisations looking to invest in or grow their business in Africa. Investors seeking to minimise risks and maximise rewards are cautioned not to focus on headlines, but rather on specific country, sector and project contexts. While Africa’s recovery may be prolonged and uneven, it could also be transformative. The pandemic’s huge economic cost has triggered a universal drop in reward scores, but the impact on risk scores has been more varied. Ethiopia has seen the largest ratings drops as COVID-19-induced challenges combine with escalating ethnic tensions in the context of a delayed election. Egypt’s risk score has remained relatively steady, but its reward score has been badly hit by the triple blow of the pandemic, low oil prices and plummeting tourism revenues. Algeria’s risk score has improved since the mass protests and landmark elections of 2019, but challenges for its oil-dependent economy have still dragged down its overall score. “The COVID-19 pandemic is a global crisis, but Africa’s recovery will be slower and more uneven than most,” warns Barnaby Fletcher, associate director at Control Risks. “However, this recovery will be an opportunity for governments across the continent to address structural constraints and promote new solutions. We are already seeing signs that they are doing so, and for investors this opens up some interesting opportunities.” The 2020 edition of the Africa Risk-Reward Index examines the longer-term implications

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 1: How fiscal space impacts recovery time (Source: Control Risks/Oxford Economics/Haver Analytics)

of COVID-19 on Africa. The first article looks at the longer-term impact of the pandemic and imagines a post-pandemic landscape, while the second explores the role that African tech can play in revitalising more traditional industries. The last article covers the growing efforts by both external and domestic actors to manipulate the public debate in Africa through influence operations and disinformation campaigns, and the risks these efforts pose to commercial companies.

POST-PANDEMIC OUTLOOK The immediate impact of COVID-19 will see Africa experience its first recession in 25 years, but more worrying is the lack of fiscal headroom available to African governments to engage in stimulus spending. For many countries, economic recovery will have to be driven by their private sectors, which were already weak and have only become weaker during the pandemic. “The economic impact of COVID-19 will be varied but the recovery will be even more so” says Jacques Nel, head of Africa macro at

Did you know? The Africa Risk-Reward Index is defined by the combination of risk and reward scores, integrating economic and political risk analysis by Control Risks and NKC African Economics. Risk scores from each country originate from the economic and political risk evaluator, while the reward scores incorporate medium-term economic growth forecasts, economic size and structure and demographics. Click here https://bit. ly/3hwa13P to download a full copy of the 2020 Africa Risk-Reward Index.

NKC African Economics. “The optimists will hope to see a race to the top as governments undertake desperately needed reforms, while the pessimists will see a continent set back more than a decade. The reality will be somewhere in between, with each country finding a unique spot on this spectrum.” However, there are already indications that the scale of this crisis is prompting some welcome reforms. Faced with a volatile global landscape, African

INDUSTRY TALK

"While Africa’s recovery may be prolonged and uneven, it could also be transformative” the formal economy to access government financial support and cope with pandemic-containment measures. Some of these trends were set in motion before the outbreak, but COVID-19 seems to have accelerated them. Investors who stay with Africa despite the current downturn will not only have an important role to play in its recovery, but will also see some exciting changes and opportunities.

NEW DIGITAL SOLUTIONS REVITALISE OLD INDUSTRIES

governments have a pressing need to develop downstream manufacturing, regional supply chains and domestic capital markets. There are also indications that large portions of the workforce are entering

Investment into African tech has reached record levels in recent years. These are likely to fall in 2020, a consequence of both recent highprofile sector struggles and the impact of COVID-19 on external finance. However, any such decline should be viewed as an opportunity to reset expectations and approaches, not as an indication that the affected sectors are becoming less attractive. The pandemic has served to emphasise the need for tech and digital solutions across the continent. It has sparked the development of healthcare apps to help fight the pandemic, e-commerce platforms to facilitate life under

Figure 2: Tech investments in Africa in 2019 (figures in USD millions, investments over USD 1m only)

lockdown, and new payment and microinsurance systems. Digital and tech is set to play a far greater role in post-pandemic Africa than it ever did before. The wave of informal workers and companies entering the formal economy will need access to basic financial and legal services, which are likely to be provided through online or mobile platforms. Digital solutions may also help facilitate the growing push to build regional supply chains.

REPUTATION AND AFRICAN GEOPOLITICS Africa has always struggled to set its own narrative and get past generalisations that cast the entire continent as beyond redemption, or the next economic powerhouse. This struggle is becoming more acute as internal and external actors actively push false narratives through influence operations and disinformation campaigns. Foreign powers engaged in such tactics have motivated the geopolitical competition over Africa, which has steadily intensified over the past decade. African governments are also building their own capacity to mount such campaigns. Investors should not assume that such activities impact only governments. Foreign investment is frequently the subject of political debate in African countries, and when that debate is distorted by external actors, individual companies face significant reputational risks. Not only that, but disinformation campaigns have been used by militant groups for recruitment and to cause peaceful protests to escalate into violence, posing security threats to commercial operations. The risk posed by influence operations in Africa should not be overstated, though the trend is growing as social media is adopted more widely across the continent. Just as grasping the political and business landscape can help investors avoid pitfalls and maximise their chances of success, understanding the information landscape – what the narrative is and who is seeking to influence it – will become increasingly important. •

Control Risks – www.ControlRisks.com NKC African Economics www.africaneconomics.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

AEROSOLS

Enhanced sweat and odour protection "Reach 701L provides a minimum of 24-hour sweat and odour protection during normal applicationâ&#x20AC;?

Antiperspirant actives, based on inorganic aluminium salts, have been marketed for more than 60 years in various application formats. In this article we look at the trends in the deodorants and antiperspirants category as well as new antiperspirant actives from Elementis.

eodorants are considered essential for South African consumers to maintain hygiene. According to a Mintel/GNPD August 2019 report, spray and rollon remain the most popular formats in Africa and the Middle East. In Africa in particular, these products also doubling up as fragrance for many consumers. The top five claims in antiperspirant and deodorant NPD in Middle East and Africa are longlasting up 67%, antiperspirant up 49%, male up 45%, female up 30% and alcohol-free up 31%. Efficacy is most important in this category, though consumers are also looking for natural ingredients in their deodorants. Despite their desire to save money, consumers value product performance. For instance, products driving sales are those deodorants which not only claim but also demonstrate proven additional benefits, as these products offer added value.

TRENDS AND DRIVERS Elementis, a global specialty chemicals company that offers performance-driven additives for innovative consumer care formulations, produces a range of advanced antiperspirant actives, which keep consumers dry and

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

smelling great. This range of products is available locally from Millchem. According to Elementis, there are various trends driving developments within this category. These include health and wellness; a growing middle class in developing regions; and consumer demands such as multi-functionality, skin care benefits, clinical strength or long-lasting benefits, natural and clean formulations, as well as sustainability and portability. There are also regulatory drivers impacting the category. These include developments within chemical inventories such as REACH and China-compliance, FDA monograph restrictions, Ecocert and ISO 16128, as well as the European Commission cyclomethicone regulations

NEW ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVES Elementis continues to invest in its selection of innovative and efficacious high performance antiperspirant actives. The following three actives are its newest antiperspirant actives available in South Africa from Millchem. Reach 701L is a chemically activated calcium glycine liquid that contains more highperformance activated aluminium

AEROSOLS

Did you know? According to Euromonitor International, in South Africa Unilever continued to lead deodorants in value terms in 2019, mainly due to the strength of its leading two brands, Shield and Axe. Both these brands also remained leaders this year within the overall deo and AP category. The long-standing presence of Shield and Axe contributes to their success, as they are associated with quality and efficacy. species (band 3/peak 4), compared to standard aluminium chlorohydrate. It is appropriate for aqueous formulas, including roll-ons, creams, sprays and gels, and supports the efficacy claim of extra effective, or all day extra effective protection. Reach 701L provides a

which will support 48-hour protection claims. This active is designed for use in anhydrous suspension sticks, roll-ons and soft solids. The key properties of Ultra Zag A77

minimum of 24-hour sweat and odour protection during normal application. Ultra Zag A77 is the highest performing aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine active,

include a reduction of perspiration from underarms, hands and feet; a reduction of underarm odour (or deodorancy); and antimicrobial against gram positive micro-organisms.

Ultra Zag 88L is a patented highperforming solution of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, consisting of the optimum Zr polymer species and an additive to maintain extended stability over time. This active ingredient blend is designed for use in all water-based formulations, such clear gels, emulsion roll-ons and emulsion creams. Ultra Zag 88L also reduces perspiration from underarms, hands and feet, and offers deodorancy benefits by reducing underarm odour. The technical expertise of Elementis in active ingredients and formulation development can provide sustainable solutions to improve speed to market and processing costs while assisting with energy reductions. •

Elementis – www.elementis .com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

AEROSOLS

Final reminder for registration of chemical disinfectants The NRCS is appealing to all manufacturers, suppliers or importers of chemical disinfectants to ensure that they comply with the new requirements of the amended compulsory specification (VC8054:2017) which came into effect on 20 October 2017.

his compulsory specification replaced the old compulsory specification for disinfectants and detergent disinfectants (referred to as VC8054:1999), which was gazetted on 14 May 1999. The scope of the VC8054:2017 covers all types of chemical disinfectants for use on inanimate surfaces, with the exclusion of antiseptics for use on living tissue and chemical disinfectants for the exclusive use in veterinary areas. Accordingly, it requires all holders of registrations for chemical disinfectant formulations that were already registered pursuant to VC8054:1999 to submit evidence of compliance with the new requirements of VC8054:2017 to the National Regulator for Compulsory Specifications (NRCS).

SALES PERMITS While some traders of these products have already started submitting their applications, many have not heeded the call, which might create difficulties for the organisation to process all the upped numbers of applications that could come close to the deadline. In light of the above, the NRCS will issue sales permits to such holders of registrations

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

"While some traders … have already started submitting their applications, many have not heeded the call”

in line with section 14(4) of Act No. 5 of 2008 and Regulation 6 of the regulations published in terms of Government Gazette GNR.924 of 15 October 2010: (Government Gazette No. 33615). The sales permit will be valid for six months starting from 20 October 2020 to 20 April 2021 and would allow for: • the depletion of chemical disinfectants stock that does not meet the requirements of the new VC8054:2017, provided such chemical disinfectants were registered pursuant to and are still in compliance with the old VC8054:1999

• sufficient time for the NRCS to process a large number of applications in accordance with the new requirements • sufficient time for holders of registrations to receive their NRCS letters of authority – ‘registration extended’ certificates and to mark their chemical disinfectants with the new NRCS registration numbers that will allow them to continue with the legal supply of their chemical disinfectant formulations, which were previously registered pursuant to VC8054:1999. All enquiries regarding applications for the extension of registration of chemical disinfectants should be sent to cmmapproval@nrcs.org.za. • NRCS – www.nrcs.org.za

From one

brave team to anotherâ&#x20AC;Ś Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 the shutdown.

You are the unsung heroes!

Our #PurplePeople salute you!

New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.

BEAUTY PACKAGING

Global mass market brand launches transformative green beauty initiative When it comes to sustainability, Garnier has been committed for years; producing more natural formulas, using sustainable and fair-trade ingredients, even being the first to bring certified organic products to the mass skin care market. Now, Garnier wants to go further, shifting the way the beauty industry operates and leading the change for all.

oday, more than ever, environmental, health and social concerns are of the upmost importance. The events of the last few months have been unprecedented, placing greater emphasis

stage of Garnier’s value chain, reducing or eradicating environmental impact in the following areas: • plastic and packaging – by 2025, Garnier will aim to use zero virgin plastic in all

on the role of brands in today’s society. Consumer expectation has shifted. Above all else, people want brands that they can trust, are transparent and which are genuinely committed to being better, especially when it comes to the impact they have on the planet.1 Garnier’s green beauty initiative is a complete end-to-end approach to sustainability. The aim is to transform every

packaging, saving 37 000t of plastic every year*, and all packaging will be either reusable, recyclable or compostable. • product and formula – by 2022, all plantbased and renewable ingredients will be sustainably sourced. By 2025, 100% of Garnier’s new products will have an improved environmental profile. • factories and manufacturing – 100% carbon neutral industrial sites by 2025, through the use of renewable energy. A total of 338 596t eq. CO 2 emissions have been saved so far**. • solidarity sourcing – by 2025 Garnier will have empowered 800 communities worldwide as part of its solidarity sourcing programme. While these targets are ambitious, there are a number of challenges to achieving them. Nicol Sobczyk, sustainable packaging

"Garnier stands for inclusivity, diversity and accessibility in an explicit way”

director, L’Oréal United States, explains: “A challenge to reaching zero virgin plastic by 2025 is access to post-consumer recycled or PCR material, so that we can replace all virgin plastic used by the brand. PCR plastics are recycled from plastic waste

KEY FACTS AND FIGURES OF GARNIER GREEN BEAUTY • #1 natural brand in the world (source: Euromonitor 2018) • sold in 64 countries • the brand’s 1.8 billion products produced annually equates to 37 000t of virgin plastic each year • zero virgin plastic by 2025 target will save 37 000t of virgin plastic annually • Garnier’s sustainability progress report contains a full account of commitments and targets • all product packaging to be made with zero virgin plastic • all packaging to be reusable, recyclable or compostable • all industrial sites to be carbon neutral.

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

BEAUTY PACKAGING

Did you know?

This fits in with the aim of Garnier’s green beauty initiative to help consumers make a more sustainable choice at the point of purchase. The mass market beauty brand aims to educate consumers on subjects such as recycling, at all digital touch points owned by the brand.

Working upstream and in close cooperation with Albéa, a long-time trusted partner, Garnier codeveloped a breakthrough innovation in the form of a new type of cosmetic tube where a key part of the plastic has been replaced with cardboard. This is the first cosmetic tube in the mass market integrating certified paperbased material. It reduces the amount of plastic by 49% and promotes the use of cardboard, which is a renewable resource. derived from consumer products. Using PCR in all our packaging will require a lot of teams coming onboard, between sourcing strategy and planning for this new material in our catalogues and making sure we have enough of it, to designing the products properly with all our suppliers and packaging and with the development teams, making sure they are able to properly develop the colours that are so true to the Garnier brand. It’s not easy to achieve the bright Garnier colours when we’re basically using waste for our products packaging. Our main objective is to use 100% recycled material in all Garnier products without compromising on quality and without impacting the consumer experience.”

EMBRACING A CIRCULAR MODEL The launch of green beauty comes with a wave of new product launches. Each new launch underpins the sustainable commitments of the brand: • Garnier Bio Hemp features new, patented cardboard-based packaging

INNOVATING FOR A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

• Garnier SkinActive Eco-Pads are reusable • Garnier Ultra Doux Solid Shampoo features zero plastic and is 100% biodegradable and 100% recyclable. Product development director, L’Oréal operations, Gregory Arnal comments: “Our ambition to advance more eco-designed packaging is to enter a circular model. We want to use less or no plastic, replace virgin plastic with PCR and make sure that our packaging is recyclable. We have developed a strategy to achieve eco-designed packaging, based on four pillars.” The first pillar is using recycled materials, second is re-design and innovate. “To re-design packaging, you have to consider weight, shape and usage,” says Maryam Alaoui, skin care packaging engineer, consumer products division. “The first idea to re-design is to lightweight all our packaging. We can also think about new materials, such as our cardboard tube.” The third pillar is re-use, while promoting recycling is the fourth pillar.

Adrien Koskas, Garnier global brand president, comments: “Green Beauty will transform the way we do business. Developed with the help of our partners, researchers and customers, this initiative highlights a range of ambitious goals, underpinned by tangible targets. We pledge to lessen our impact on the planet and innovate for a sustainable future, while ensuring our products remain accessible to all. It will take time, but green beauty will transform Garnier, and we hope the beauty industry as a whole.” Garnier stands for inclusivity, diversity and accessibility in an explicit way. “I hope that Garnier will become a brand recognised for offering sustainable, natural and efficient products without compromise – a brand that takes care of the planet, is trusted to do the best it can and is synonymous with green beauty,” adds Koskas. • REFERENCES: 1. Edelman Trust Barometer 2020: Coronavirus special report. 2. based on Garnier plastic consumption in 2019. 3. Compared to Garnier’s consumption in 2005.

Albéa – www.albea-group.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Webinars highlight skin care

ingredients and processing matters

The webinar programme provided by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) to members and non-members alike continues to be a huge success. In this article, we review two of the webinars that took place during September. light can penetrate deep into the skin and causes a decrease in the amount of collagen and elastin. Chemgrit Cosmetics Physalis angulata extract blend demonstrates excellent stimulant activity of skin’s natural antioxidant defence mechanism and increases the production of the extracellular matrix to protect against blue light. Staying indoors during the pandemic has also decreased consumers exposure to the sun, resulting in less vitamin D production. The result is thinner and aged skin, imbalance of microbiota and a compromised skin barrier. Gompel-Ratsiane recommended the CO 2 supercritical plant-based extract consisting mainly of Bidens pilosa extract. This extract acts similar to synthetic retinoids but without the adverse effects. It also promotes the treatment of ageing skin by stimulating the epidermal growth factor. An additional solution to counteract the effects of vitamin D deficiency is

"For immediate lipid replacement, GompelRatsiane suggested a synergistic combination of vegetable oils rich in omega 3, 6, 7 and 9”

working synergistically. These are identified through immediate lipid replacement, biological repair of the On 9 September Stephanie Gompelskin barrier and natural soothing. Ratsiane, sales representative of For immediate lipid Chemgrit Cosmetics, gave a replacement, Gompelpresentation on skin needs Ratsiane suggested a during and post pandemic. The synergistic combination COVID-19 pandemic has led of vegetable oils rich in to a change in our behaviour, omega 3, 6, 7 and 9 – mainly our hygiene habits essential fatty acids that and social lifestyle with an guarantee smoothness, increase in the use of hand softness and restoration sanitisers and disinfectants. Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane of the skin barrier. of Chemgrit Cosmetics Soaps and sanitisers work Anadenanthera colubrina bark by removing microorganisms, extract blend promotes biological skin dirt, sweat and oil from the surface of hydration through a unique mechanism the skin, but they also strongly interact of water distribution and retention in with proteins and lipids in the stratum the dermis. For natural soothing, the corneum leading to an increase of Physalis angulata extract blend reduces transepidermal water loss and skin the inflammatory cascade of the skin permeation. As a result, consumers and restores the cutaneous barrier. are experiencing adverse skin Consumers social lifestyle has reactions such as dryness, erythema also changed. Their interaction with and irritation. one another via social platforms has To fight these effects, Gompelincreased, leading to an excessive use Ratsiane discussed a range of solutions, of electronic devices. Artificial blue which include different mechanisms

SKIN NEEDS DURING AND POST PANDEMIC

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

within consumers reach. A fruit extract blend containing mainly Spondias mombin pulp and Mangifera indica (mango), stimulates gentle biological exfoliation and cell renewal. Coffea Arabica seed oil blend is an active ingredient that can be used to deal with pandemic weight and boost consumer confidence. It has been developed to improve skin elasticity, firmness and reduce cellulite by improving dermal microcirculation and reducing lipogenesis. Whether consumers are dealing with adverse skin reactions or lifestyle changes during the pandemic – there are solutions available to brands to help consumers overcome these challenges.

ASSOCIATION NEWS

"Rheological profiling can provide valuable insights into how emulsions behave under different processing conditions” UPSCALING AND MANUFACTURE OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS On 22 September, John Knowlton of Cosmetic Solutions, presented a webinar entitled Upscaling & Manufacture of Emulsion Products. Knowlton opened the webinar by emphasising the need for a properly designed upscaling protocol to ensure that newly-developed cosmetic An example of an emulsions find their way in-line mixer into the manufacturing environment, where they become commercially viable through the Rheological profiling can implementation of provide valuable insights robust and repeatable into how emulsions behave processing techniques. under different processing The first step in the conditions in the factory, whilst upscaling process is to particle size analysis provides John Knowlton of characterise the emulsion in Cosmetic Solutions very useful information about question; adherence to the the stability of emulsion principles of Good Laboratory Practice products thus manufactured. is an essential part of this. Knowlton After emulsion characterisation, specifically referred to constant batch Knowlton explained that the next sizes, controlled heating and cooling step in the upscaling process is to conditions, minimisation of evaporation examine how each of the determined and the standardisation of mixing parameters may, or may not, be techniques, as integral parts of affected by processing conditions in the process. the factory. In this context, viscosity, Emulsions may be objectively rheological profile and particle size characterised by the use of measurable profile are fundamentally affected parameters such as appearance, by the design and operation of the olfactory profile, pH, viscosity and manufacturing equipment used which, specific gravity. These are widely in turn, determines the compliance with used for this purpose in the cosmetic specifications for the resultant cosmetic industry globally. Knowlton explained how each of these parameters may be used in the emulsion characterisation process and made particular reference to two less commonly used techniques of rheological profiling and particle size analysis.

emulsions produced. Virtually moving into the factory, Knowlton explained that the manufacture of cosmetic emulsions can be divided into two distinct steps: 1. low shear mixing of the oil and water phases

2. high shear processing of the emulsion to reduce the disperse phase particle size. The first step depends upon factors such as vessel design and configuration, in addition to the actual mixing equipment used. Knowlton explained how the use of the Reynold’s Number calculations are immensely useful in determining the equipment to be used. Knowlton then moved on to step two, explaining the various machines available to achieve high shear processing. Specifically, a comparison was made between ‘batch’ and ‘in-line’ high shear processing techniques and the advantages and disadvantages of each, as an integral part of the overall manufacturing process. Finally, Knowlton closed his particularly informative webinar by reviewing some of the more frequently encountered problems that are experienced in the commercial manufacture of cosmetic emulsions and he provided some guidance on their swift resolution. • For more information on Coschem’s upcoming virtual events, please send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2020

Tea

time Movie Crossword Puzzle

To advertise in contact Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

www.pharmacos.co.za

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AECI Specialty Chemicals..................37........charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com

Maccallum ..............................................25........www.maccallum.co.za

Amchem ..................................................18........www.amchem.co.za

Mibelle Biochemistry..........................21........www.mibellebiochemistry.com

Botanichem............................................36........www.botanichem.co.za

Millchem .................................................43........www.millchem.co.za

CanbiGold.................................................. 5........www.viropure.co.za

Rettenmaier South Africa (JRS)......33........www.jrs.eu

Chemgrit Cosmetics............................23........www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za

Rotolabel................................................IFC........www.rotolabel.co.za

Clariant................................................. OBC........www.clariant.com/velsanflex

Savannah Fine Chemicals.................31........www.savannah.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Lab ............OFC........www.hersol.co.za

SK Chemtrade Services......................35........www.skchemtrade.co.za

ISW Shrink....................................... 44, 47........www.iswshrink.co.za

Solo Chemicals & Specialities..........17........www.solochem.co.za

Java Print.................................................15........www.javaprint.co.za

Vantage Specialty Chemicals...........29........kim@lipo.co.za

OCTOBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,

Chemists’ website will find information

Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam

on membership, educational

Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,

programmes (specific details

Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and

Tel: 010 595 9690

higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK

BOTANICHEM

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients

chemical, food and dairy industries.

to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

www.botanichem.co.za

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

13 2020

Velsan® Flex

FLEXIBILITY TO PRESERVE MORE The challenges to international personal care markets are evolving with ever-increasing speed. So, we at Clariant developed Velsan® Flex, a unique preservation booster: With its high water solubility and the Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of 93%, the product offers broad formulation flexibility and exhibits exceptional preservation boosting power – thus meets consumers’ requirements for sustainability and performance. VELSAN® FLEX – A SUSTAINABLE TRADITION OF PURE INNOVATION CONTINUES. WWW.CLARIANT.COM / VELSANFLEX

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2020

Articles inside

Webinars highlight skin care ingredients and processing matters

Enhanced sweat and odour protection

In support of cleansing – the overlooked skin care step

Add to your clean beauty basket with coco-caprylate/caprate

Post-pandemic cellulite solutions

A 40-year journey to building a local legacy