Passport 2017 by News-Times

2017

SERVING THE CENTRAL OREGON COAST FROM TILLAMOOK TO FLORENCE

O R E G O N C O A S T â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

PREMIER NEW R E S TA U R A N T FRESH. LOCAL. NEW. BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF SEA LIONS, YAQUINA BAY BRIDGE AND NEWPORTS FISHING FLEET.

BRUNCH. LUNCH. DINNER. OUTDOOR PATIO. INDOOR DINING. BAR. LOUNGE. CLEARWATER RESTAURANT 325 SW BAY BLVD. NEWPORT, OREGON 97365 1.541.272.5550

www.clearwaterrestaurant.com facebook.com/clearwaterrestaurant instagram.com/clearwaterrestaurant

2017

A PUBLICATION OF THE

Newport

PUBLISHER James Rand

PHOTOS BY

Yachats

Nathan Howard

Central Oregon Coast Passport is published once a year by the NewsTimes. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. Central Oregon Coast Passport makes every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions. Pacific City

CONTRIBUTORS

ADVERTISING CONTACTS

Nancy Steinberg Calley Hair Nathan Howard Luke Whittaker Mark Brennan

Barbara Moore Teresa Barnes John Anderson Kathy Wyatt Sandee Beare Deborah LaCroix

Florence

Table of Contents Pacific City Wander at Kiwanda Lincoln City Drift Along… Newport Fat is where it's AT!

5-8 5 16-18 17 30-34 32

Tillamook 12-15 The Tillamook Cheese Factory 13 Depoe Bay Yum’s the Word!

22-27 23

Toledo Toledo Art and Soul

36-40 37

Waldport Alsea Bay

41-44 42

Yachats Eat Out in Yachats

45-48 46

Florence 50-54 Aero Legends Biplane Tours 52

PACIFIC CITY

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Wander at Kiwanda The Pelican Pub and the Inn at Cape Kiwanda are the icing on the cake at one of the most spectacular parks on the coast

Pulling up to Cape Kiwanda State Park in Pacific City, it’s perfectly natural for you to feel a bit overwhelmed. Where to look first? At Haystack Rock towering offshore, pummeled by waves and circled by birds? At the sand dune at the north end of the beach, the views from the top of which are unparalleled on the coast? At the dory boats gunning their engines and beaching themselves at the end of their fishing trips? Or maybe you stare with longing at the Pelican Pub, dreaming of a Kiwanda Cream Ale and a tower of their famous onion rings. Don’t worry – there is time for all of this and more, especially if you stay overnight just across the street at the world-class Inn at Cape Kiwanda. Cape Kiwanda State Park is a mecca for all kinds of beachgoers, including families building sand castles and flying kites, anglers heading out on fishing trips on dory boats, surfers, tide pool peekers, hikers, and more. Beach access is easy, with a large parking lot that borders directly on the beach. You can even drive right onto the beach and park 6 oregon coast passport

closer to the surf if you’d like. Once on the beach, you must hike up the towering dune at the north end of the beach. Yes, it’s steep. Yes, it’s high. But you must go all the way to the top, no cheating. On the north side of the dune is a landscape of narrow inlets, rocky shores, and sea caves that are gorgeous to behold. You will also catch a breathtaking view of Haystack Rock and the beaches to the north and south of the cape. It’s great fun to run, roll, or slide back down the dune face to the beach. For every arduous trip up the dune you make, you burn enough calories to earn one pint at the Pelican Pub (OK, that’s made that up, but sounds good, though, doesn’t it?). Back at the bottom of the dune you’ll find tide pools to explore at low tide at the base of the cliff, and plenty more to do at the beach, including watching beginner hang gliding students (see sidebar – why not try it yourself?), dodging dory boats, and just gazing at the ocean. By now you’re thirsty. Time to head to the

Safety First!

When hiking the dune at Cape Kiwanda, please heed all signs and fences at the top of the dune – it is truly hazardous and reckless to disregard them. Multiple deaths have occurred here in the past few years when people have slipped and fallen after bypassing the posted signs and fences.

Pelican Pub, and if it’s close to sunset, you’re in for a particular treat. A coveted seat on the outdoor deck might involve a bit of a wait, but it’s worth it. (Most tables inside the pub have a similar view of the beach and Haystack Rock.) Pelican brews the beers served at the pub on-site in the coast’s only oceanfront brewery. Their signature brews, available year-round, include Kiwanda Cream Ale, Silverspot IPA, and Tsunami Stout. These brews and their others have won too many awards to list them all, but notably the Silverspot took silver and the Cream Ale took gold at the 2014 World Beer Cup, one of the most prestigious beer competitions in the world. They also offer a wide range of seasonal and specialty beers, including a number of IPAs and a line of Belgian-

style brews. The Dirty Bird seasonal IPA is a local favorite. As described by the brewery, “Popping with citrusy hop aromas and zesty tropical fruit flavors, this ale is trailed by a fresh, slightly toasty and spicy climax.” While at most brewpubs the beer takes center stage, at the Pelican Pub they care just as much about the food, resulting in a diverse Northwestinspired menu that pairs perfectly with their beers. You can’t have a bad meal here – it’s literally all good. Start with the aforementioned tower of onion rings, enormous bangle-braceletsized rings of sweet onion perfectly fried and accompanied by three dipping sauces. Laden down your table with a juicy burger served on their house-made spent grain roll, their famous fish and chips, a crisp and fresh flatbread with chicken and arugula, or

their incredible fish tacos. Beer pairings are recommended for all menu items. In true pub cuisine style, many of the dishes are made with Pelican products: Tsunami Stout BBQ sauce, Silverspot IPA-cured salmon, MacPelican's Ale cheese sauce on the mac and cheese, and who could resist a Tsunami Stout float, made with a scoop of Tillamook vanilla bean ice cream. If you really want to explore food and beer pairings, make sure to try one of the three annual Brewers Dinners offered at the pub, at which Brewmaster Darron Welch pairs beers with each of five courses, offering commentary on the pairings along the way. After dinner and a bonfire on the beach, accompanied by another Pelican beer or two that you can buy to go, return to you beautiful room at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda. The rooms are all

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light and bright, decorated in a beachy style with blonde wood and tile accents. All have a private balcony and view of the ocean and Haystack Rock, a gas fireplace, LCD TV, and in-room Starbucks coffee. For a truly luxurious treat, stay in one of the Nestucca Jacuzzi Rooms, which feature a twoperson Jacuzzi tub with an ocean view. Families will feel right at home at the inn – check out the Family Suite rooms with bunkbeds in a semi-private sleeping area for the kids. The Surf Suite is also designed for families, featuring an adjacent kids’ room with twin surf-themed bunk beds and an Xbox 360, as well as custom art work by surf artist Todd Fischer. Many of the inn’s rooms are dog-friendly, so don’t leave Fido behind! The inn offers a number of packages and special rates, and hosts cool events throughout the year. Coastal Creature Package: stay at least two nights and add on a package that includes Tillamook ice cream milkshakes from the Stimulus Café (in the same building as the inn), tickets to the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport, and a sand bucket with magnifying 8 oregon coast passport

glass for budding marine biologists to use at the beach. On Friday and Saturday nights, enjoy the Fireside Manager's Reception, which features Pelican brews, Oregon wines, sparkling cider, fruit & cheese trays, and fresh baked chocolate chip cookies. Add to all of this the ocean-view workout room, mini-spa on site, and the incredibly friendly service, and you may not want to leave. What else do you need on vacation besides the very best beer, beach, and bedroom around?

When You Go

Get more information about both the inn and the pub at www.yourlittlebeachtown.com Inn at Cape Kiwanda 33105 Cape Kiwanda Drive Pacific City (888) 965-7001 Pelican Pub 33180 Cape Kiwanda Drive Pacific City (503) 965-7007

More to See

More Fun in Pacific City Ride – A great way to see the dunes and beaches of Pacific City is by horseback. Take a guided ride at Green Acres Beach & Trail Rides near Bob Straub State Park, just to the south of Cape Kiwanda State Park. www.beach-rides.com Photos by Nathan Howard

Play safe … but when you need us, visit a Samaritan walk-in clinic near you.

Newport Samaritan Pacific Walk-In Clinic A department of Samaritan Pacific Communities Hospital 930 SW Abbey St. • 541-574-4860 Open seven days a week

Depoe Bay Samaritan Depoe Bay Clinic A department of Samaritan Pacific Communities Hospital 531 N Hwy. 101, Suite A • 541-765-3265 Open weekdays

Lincoln City Samaritan Coastal Clinic A department of Samaritan North Lincoln Hospital 825 NW Hwy. 101, Suite A • 541-996-7480 Open seven days a week

samhealth.org/CareNow

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The premier publisher of local news and so much more for the central Oregon coast’s residents, visitors and businesses!

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TILLAMOOK

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The Tillamook Cheese Factory: Satisfying Cravings for Over 100 Years

Most of us really don’t understand the food production process. We know, vaguely, that chicken nuggets come from a bird, peaches come from a tree, and milk comes from a cow. But we don’t know much beyond that, and sometimes we don’t want to know (see the aforementioned chicken nuggets). Much nutritional philosophy posits that we would be healthier if we did know exactly where our food comes from, how it is processed, and how it gets from farm to plate. In the interest, therefore, of furthering your family’s food IQ (and having nothing to do with the free samples, of course), take a free self-guided tour of the famed Tillamook Cheese Factory in Tillamook. Here you can gain a better understanding of how that sharp cheddar or sweet cream butter goes from the cow to your table. Along the way, you’ll also learn more about this successful company and an important facet of the history of the Tillamook community.

Dairy cows have been chewing their cud in Tillamook County for well over 100 years (currently, there are nearly as many dairy cows in Tillamook County as there are people – about 24,000 cows and 25,000 residents!). As coastal residents know all too well, it can be difficult to grow most crops here, but grass grows like crazy, providing plenty of fodder for cows. The first commercial cheesemaking operation in the county opened its doors in 1894, and the industry grew exponentially from there. In 1909, ten creameries got together to form the Tillamook County Creamery Association, a farmer-owned co-op, which now operates the Tillamook Cheese Company. Currently over 100 dairy farmers are members of the co-op, which imposes high quality standards on the local industry and helps with marketing as well. The Tillamook Cheese Company now produces an astounding 167,000 pounds of Tillamook cheeses every day. oregon coast passport 13

In addition to their famed cheese, Tillamook also produces ice cream, butter, yogurt, and sour cream. The company had been forced to downsize in recent years due mainly to the high cost of shipping products to and from the remote Oregon coast, but Tillamook is still a critical player in the local and regional economy, posting revenues of $477 million in 2011. Tillamook products have racked up a mountain of awards, including three best-of-class awards at the 2013 United States Championship Cheese Contest for their colby jack, sharp cheddar, and vintage white extra sharp cheddar varieties. The tour and visitor center attract about a million visitors every year. On the second floor of the factory and visitor center visitors can learn about the cheesemaking process and the history of the co-op at interactive kiosks. For example, why is a sailboat the symbol of a creamery? (Some of the original dairy farmers that formed the co-op built the boat to ship their products to Portland). How do the cheesemakers “sharpen” cheddar? (The longer a cheese is aged, the sharper it becomes.) More questions and answers await at the factory. Visitors can also get a birds-eye view of the production floor, where the cheese is processed, packaged, and tested for quality control. At the Tillamook facility the focus is “loaves,” the industry term for blocks of cheese; shredded and sliced cheeses are processed elsewhere. If you go during weekday business hours or before 3 pm on weekends, you can see the mesmerizing packaging line chugging 14 oregon coast passport

away, wrapping up cheddar or Monterey jack for shipping. These loaves could be going anywhere. Tillamook cheeses are sold in all 50 states, with one critical exception: the only place to get the famed Tillamook squeaky cheese curds is right at the factory, so make sure to take some home. Free samples of Tillamook products are offered on the tour, but by the end you’ll be hungry for more than one taste at a time. Make sure to visit the factory store to get your fill. Also featured is a Tillamook ice cream stand, the

Rendering by Olson Kundig

only place in the world where you can choose from every single flavor of Tillamook ice cream. For more sweets, the fudge counter entices, with nearly 30 varieties of fudge made with Tillamook butter. If you are feeling the need for an actual meal, take a seat at the Creamery Café, where the menu, of course, features Tillamook products including perhaps the best grilled cheese sandwich ever. So scoop that ice cream, spread that butter, grate that cheese: now you know where they come from as well as how delicious they are.

When You Go

Tillamook Cheese Factory 4175 Highway 101, Tillamook (503) 815-1300 www.tillamook.com/cheese-factory 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Labor Day through mid-June) 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Mid-June through Labor Day)

More to See

More fun in Tillamook Your trip to Tillamook may look a little different this year. The Tillamook County Creamery Association (TCCA) embarked on a two-year project this spring to build a new, 38,500 square-foot visitors center at its Tillamook headquarter locations. During renovations the existing visitors center will be closed to the public, but don’t worry—there’s plenty of cheese and ice cream available at the creamery’s temporary facility right next door. The provisional visitors center will continue to offer everyone’s favorite cheese tastings, Tillamook souvenirs and of course the ever-popular ice cream bar. For those interested in a more handson experience, the center also features an in-depth look at dairy farming along the Oregon coast. The exhibit features farming equipment, grain samples, information on cow breeds and the daily life of Tillamook’s farmers. “The new facility will also provide much-needed upgrades to several ‘back of house’ areas that are not necessarily visible to visitors, but are critical to the operation running smoothly and efficiently and to providing a quality work experience for our employees as well,” said TCCA’s Director of Guest Experience Peter Papp. “We expect that having increased space for our operations and staff at the new facility will dramatically increase the speed of service for our guests.” The new visitor’s center, designed by Seattle-based architecture firm Olson Kundig, will open its doors in the summer of 2018. oregon coast passport 15

LINCOLN NCO CITY

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Drift Along… Discover Lincoln City’s hidden waterfall

If you want a break from the beach, there’s a great halfday excursion into a heavy-canopied forest sprinkled with 50-year-old regrowth evergreen trees that’s no more than a half-hour’s drive southeast of Lincoln City. And if that’s not exciting enough, consider that the trail features a spectacular 240-foot-long suspension bridge that looms over a 75-foot-long waterfall plummeting into picturesque Drift Creek. This outing may end at the foot of the bridge for those who suffer from acrophobia, but if not, then enjoy the slight swaying of this safe (with chest-high safety railings), well-built (in 1997) bridge that offers a stunning view of the waterfall. The roar of the falls can be heard a few hundred yards away, but the suspension bridge appears out of nowhere as you crest a small knoll. It’s spectacular as it hangs from oregon coast passport 17

cables (cemented into opposing bluffs and capable of holding more than 150,000 pounds) spanning the 100-foot-deep Drift Creek Canyon. The falls created a natural pool until August 2010, when a mammoth boulder interrupted the bucolic scene by falling several hundred feet into the creek, landing directly below the waterfall and making the view even more dynamic. The trail continues about 400 yards down from the bridge to the base of the falls, and provides easy access to

the creek for those who want to enjoy the cold water. The hike is enjoyable as it winds through thick growths of sword fern, huckleberries, trilliums and a heavy canopy of vine maples, red alders and second-growth Douglas fir, hemlock and Western red cedar trees. It’s a favorite for families, even those with small children, especially during the summer months. It’s open year-round, and is less congested and perhaps even more beautiful during spring and fall.

When You Go

Drift Creek Falls, Siuslaw National Forest Open all year Directions: Off Highway 101 south of Lincoln City (north of Salishan), turn east on Drift Creek Road, then after ¼ mile go right on South Drift Creek Road, then left on FS Road 17 for about 10 miles to trailhead parking lot. (Also accessible from Highway 18). Length: Three miles round trip, with an elevation drop of about 400 feet on first leg. Difficulty: Easy-to-moderate, kid friendly and popular with families. Facilities: Vault toilet at trailhead with a picnic table at the suspension bridge. Fee: $5 day use, or season/lifetime forest pass. More details: www.fs.fed.us/r6/ siuslaw or 503-392-3161.

More to See

More fun in Lincoln City Kite Festivals – With lots of wide beaches and no shortage of wind, it’s no wonder that kite flying is so popular in Lincoln City. This high-flying pastime is celebrated at two annual kite festivals held at the D River Wayside, one in the summer and one in the fall. www. oregoncoast.org/festivals-events/

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The Best Breakfast on the Coast! Ever ything is homemade!

Newport BraNch office

255 e. olive (hwy 20) Office: 541-283-3591 CELL: 541-961-7497

Sara Bell,

Broker ABR, CRS, ePro, GRI, SRES

OR License #200905137

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2821 NW Hwy 101 • Lincoln City

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Next to Galluccis Pizzaria

Visit us at Gamover-arcade.com

Greater Newport Chamber of Commerce

555 SW Coast Highway • Newport, Oregon 97365 (541) 265-8801 • Toll Free 1-800-COAST-44 www.newportchamber.org

Jennifer Sears Glass Art Studio

Blow Your Own Float, Fluted Bowl, Paperweight, Starfish or Heart Local Artists walk you through the art of creating with molten glass

4821 SW Hwy 101

at the South End of Lincoln City

541-996-2569

www.JenniferSearsGlassArt.com • www.VoltaGlass.com

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Play safe … but when you need us, visit a Samaritan Walk-In Clinic near you.

Depoe Bay Samaritan Depoe Bay Clinic a department of Samaritan Pacific Communities Hospital 531 N Hwy. 101, Suite A 541-765-3265 Open weekdays

Newport Samaritan Pacific Walk-In Clinic a department of Samaritan Pacific Communities Hospital 930 SW Abbey St. 541-574-4860 Open seven days a week

Samaritan Health Services samhealth.org/CareNow

EXCLUSIVEEDISTRIBUTORROFFTHE LOCALLYYDESIGNED “GROUNDDZERO” SHIRTS FREE

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80 S. Hwy 101 Depoe Bay 877-354-5533 across from the Whale Watch Center

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Yum’s the Word! Eat your way through Depoe Bay

Photos by Luke Whittaker

Spending a day in lovely Depoe Bay? All that whale watching and fishing can help you work up a big appetite. Luckily, Depoe Bay boasts a large range of excellent eateries, where you can get anything from a multi-course, cutting-edge gourmet meal to a simple and hearty bowl of chowder. Depoe Bay has restaurants for every appetite and budget; here are a few to try. Gracie’s Sea Hag Gracie’s is an Oregon Coast institution, feeding great food to locals and visitors for more than fifty years. The venerable Gracie herself just recently passed away, but her legacy of fantastic local seafood in a casual setting lives on. The restaurant resembles oregon coast passport 23

the cabin of a ship, a cozy space lined with wood and nautical features, including amazing old photographs of our local fishing fleet at work. Nightly specials complement a huge regular menu focusing on fresh, local seafood. The Neptune’s Platter is very popular, offering a feast of seafood types, either sautéed or fried. On a recent evening I couldn’t get enough of the fried oysters in crispy panko crumbs, cooked to a golden brown. Gracie’s famous clam chowder is creamy and full of great clam flavor, but not bulked up and gloppy with extra flour. The petrale sole with a crab and shrimp stuffing is a treat, dripping with hollandaise sauce and bubbling fresh out of the oven. Local fish (salmon, halibut, crab) are prepared many different ways, so you can have crab in the shell, on a delicious spinach salad, in crab cakes, or in seafood pasta. Salmon can be charbroiled, baked, or poached. Surf and turf fans will find many options, as Gracie’s takes equal pride in their steaks, including the prime rib served every Saturday night. Don’t skip dessert! Gracie’s original recipe for Marion berry tart was included in a New York Times cook book, or you could go for the equally perfect strawberry shortcake or homemade bread pudding with bourbon sauce. Attached to the dining room is Gracie’s bar, where you can hang out around a table with a fire crackling in its center or catch a game on the bigscreen TV. Gracie was known to “play the bottles” nearly every day in the bar, but now the entertainment is of a more traditional variety (call for their live music schedule).

Photos by Luke Whittaker 24 oregon coast passport

Thai Bay To get your curry or pad Thai fix with a beautiful view to boot, head to the unassuming but delicious Thai Bay on the east side of Hwy 101at the south end of town. Try to get a window seat, where you can watch the comings and goings of tiny Depoe Bay Harbor below. A recent meal there of Thai standards – fresh spring rolls with tofu, pad Thai with shrimp, seafood salad, and red curry exploded with exotic flavors. The fat spring rolls were packed with veggies and the house peanut sauce for dipping was served warm. I could eat piles of the spicy seafood salad, a mixture of shrimp, scallops, and squid mixed with ginger, onions, and lime juice. Like all of their dishes, they will adjust the level of spiciness to your taste, from mild to extra-hot. The curry arrived steaming and with just the right mix of spicy and sweet, and the Pad Thai was chock-full of huge shrimp and prepared in the traditional style. Other specialties on the menu include Pladook Shu Shee, fried catfish with a red curry sauce; Three Flavor Fish, salm-

on topped with chili and garlic sauce, onions, tomatoes, and pineapple; and Crying Tiger, grilled flank steak in a special house marinade and served with a spicy chili-garlic sauce. A large selection of curries, stir fries, and noodles is also available, served with your choice of meat (tofu, chicken, beef, seafood). To complete the flavorful extravaganza, don’t forget to order a sweet and satisfying Thai iced tea. Tidal Raves Tidal Raves is, hands down, one of the best restaurants on the Oregon Coast, which is why you’ll find its parking lot full to overflowing from 11 am until it closes, every single day (reservations are accepted, and highly recommended if you want to avoid a wait). After a beautiful renovation, Tidal Raves has a new bar, with the same spectacular ocean view as the expanded dining room. Many meals here have been accompanied by grey whales having their own seafood dinner in the cove just under the restaurant’s windows. Fresh, local seafood is the focus here, prepared in a range

Photos by Luke Whittaker 26 oregon coast passport

of delicious styles. You can’t go wrong by starting with any of their soups, but my favorite is the creamy spinach oyster bisque. The calamari is lightly dusted with breading and is perfectly cooked, and the Seahawk bread (baguette toasted with smoked salmon, cream cheese, Havarti, shrimp, and onion) is totally addictive. There are main courses to satisfy any appetite. The Pasta Rave is a family favorite: a huge bowl of fettucine chock full of local seafood and your choice of house-made sauces – try the pesto cream sauce. Other favorites include the green curry, a coconut milk-based curry with rockfish, shrimp, and veggies; the chilled udon salad with shrimp (or chicken if you’re more of a land-lubber) and spicy peanut sauce; the warm, herb-infused cioppino bursting with seafood; and the grilled wild salmon with shrimp and basil salsa, prepared charbroiled or Cajun style. The extensive wine list, creative cocktails (I absolutely love the cucumber gimlet and the dark & stormy), and mouth-watering housemade desserts will round out your meal. Make sure to arrive hungry, and don’t forget your camera – the view from the dining room is unparalleled! Restaurant Beck How to describe Restaurant Beck, which defies description and imagination? This small but gorgeously designed restaurant is at Whale Cove Inn just south of Depoe Bay. The exquisite view from the dining room of Whale Cove is matched only by the creative, progressive, downright astonishing

cuisine presented by chef Justin Wills. Wills, twice a semi-finalist for the James Beard Best Chef in the NW award, focuses on foraged and farmed local ingredients prepared in innovative ways to provide what he calls a “playful and artful dining experience.” While Restaurant Beck’s menu changes on a daily basis depending on the best ingredients available, here’s a sample meal: an appetizer of pork belly confit with miso ice cream, sea salt, and sea beans; a main course of local rockfish with cannellini, bacon, grilled kale-pine nut pesto, celery leaf and Meyer lemon gremolata; followed by a dessert of Meyer lemon & almond pound cake with fig, Italian plum, and meadow foam honeyyogurt ice cream. One of the best ways to experience Restaurant Beck is by ordering one of their tasting menus, five or seven courses with or without wines, and letting the chef decide what small plates to serve. Keep your eyes open for the restaurant’s special events, which could highlight a particular ingredient, focus on wine pairings, or bring some of Wills’ chef friends from the region to prepare special meals, like last year’s Chefs go Coastal dinner series. Kudos have deservedly rolled in for the restaurant, and for Wills. Restaurant Beck was awarded a AAA Three Diamond rating within its first six months of operation, and Beck has been honored by the James Beard Foundation and nominated for a Peoples Choice Award Best New Chef US by Food and Wine magazine. Locals are abuzz about Wills’ new adventure: a casual Italian restaurant in Newport’s Nye Beach neighborhood, scheduled to open in early summer.

Photos by Luke Whittaker

When You Go

Restaurant Beck 2345 S. Hwy 101 (at Whale Cove Inn) (541) 765-3220 restaurantbeck.com Tidal Raves 279 NW Hwy 101 (541) 765-2995 tidalraves.com Gracie’s Sea Hag 58 N. Hwy 101, Depoe Bay (541) 765-2734 theseahag.com

More to See

More fun in Depoe Bay Great view in fair or foul weather – Just south of Depoe Bay is Cape Foul weather, so-named by Captain James Cook in 1778 (can you guess why?) – his very first sighting of the North American mainland. Don’t miss the incredible view from the pull-off, 500 feet above the ocean. The gift shop here is on the National Register of Historic Places. oregon coast passport 27

301 SW Madison Ave Corvallis • 541.757.0875 Mon-Sat 10-6 & Sun 11-5 Footwise.com

Sibling Revelry Amazing Jewelry & Clothes for Women

Fun Gifts & Hats for Men Too!

Men’s and Women’s Comfort Shoes Birkenstock • Keen • Dansko & more!

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28 oregon coast passport

145 NW 2nd St, Corvallis 541-754-1424

6 Tillamook 101 Pacific City

Great getaway ideas in and around the Oregon Coast. Get there on a tank of gas

18 Lincoln City

Depoe Bay

229

Pacific City V Corvallis = 74.4 miles

Siletz

Tillamook V Corvallis = 91.2 miles Lincoln City V Corvallis = 75.3 miles Depoe Bay V Corvallis = 61.4 miles

Corvallis

Newport

Newport V Corvallis = 48.7 miles

Toledo

Toledo V Corvallis = 43.5 miles Waldport V Corvallis = 64.3 miles Yachats V Corvallis = 72.8 miles

Waldport

Florence V Corvallis = 82.6 miles

34 Yachats 101 Florence

Siuslaw National Forest

126

Oregon Dunes National Park oregon coast passport 29

NEWPORT

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Fat is Where it’s AT! Rent a fat tire bike at Bike Newport and roll on down to the beach

Maybe you don’t want to don spandex and fly along next to traffic on the Bay Road on a road bike. Maybe you don’t want to hurtle downhill and climb muddy obstacles on a mountain bike. If a cushy, easy, and fun ride on the flat beach is more your speed, and really, it should be everyone’s speed at some point, head over to Bike Newport and rent a fat tire bike to ride the beach. Fat tire bikes, or fat bikes, are gaining in popularity all over the country. Invented to ride in snow, but equally at home on sand, fat bikes look like a cartoon version of a mountain bike, with very wide tires and robust frames. The ride is cushioned and comfortable, and the bikes are much lighter and more maneuverable than they look. The result is an easy ride for all ages and abilities. Bike Newport has a fleet of fat bikes to rent for children 32 oregon coast passport

South Beach State Park offers a nice mix between beach riding and wooded trails. Finish your ride at the ocean for a breathtaking view.

Spray up some ocean mist while riding along Newport's beaches and ocean trails, fat tire biking is the most scenic way to get around the Newport landscape.

oregon coast passport 33

and adults. You can rent at the shop on 6th St. and ride directly from there to Nye Beach, and that’s where the fun begins. “It absolutely feels like flying,” says Bike Newport coowner Daniella Crowder. The tires are ideal for sand, whether you want to ride on the flat, compacted beach near the water or in the dunes. The wide open spaces on Newport’s beaches and the vast sight lines means that riders of all skill levels can ride without fear of running into anything. More adventuresome riders can try tricks, jumps, and obstacles formed by logs and rocks on the beach. “I’ve explored coves and remote stretches of beach on my fat bike that I’ve never been to on foot,” says Daniella’s husband and business partner, Elliott. “Just a few months ago I discovered a waterfall in South Beach that I never knew was there.” Fat bikes can be ridden on mountain biking trails and pavement, too. Elliott Crowder loves his fat bike so much that he has essentially given up riding his mountain bike,

which is saying a lot for a bike shop owner. Ready to join the fun? You can rent fat tire bikes at Bike Newport any time the shop is open for $20 per hour or $50 for the day, and take them wherever you’d like. They have adult and kid-sized bikes, but the fleet size is limited so be sure to reserve early. You can also call the shop to prearrange a guided group fat bike ride on a local beach. Starting after Memorial Day, the shop will sponsor weekly fat bike rides one night per week (details are still being worked out so check their website or Facebook page). If you’re visiting during the weekend of the solar eclipse (Aug. 21; see p. 42), Bike Newport will be co-sponsoring the Surfrider beach cleanup that weekend, bringing a brigade of fat bikers to help pick up trash. Finally, the Crowders are hoping to arrange some two-day fat bike tours along the coast this summer. A sample itinerary might include riding from Otter Rock to Newport, an overnight in Newport, then riding on day two from Newport to Yachats. Again, keep up with the shop’s web page and Facebook page for the latest on these tours.

When You Go Bike Newport 150 NW 6th St. (541) 265-9917 bikenewport.com

More to See

More fun in South Beach Just over the iconic Yaquina Bay Bridge from the hustle and bustle of the Bayfront and the quirky art scene of Nye Beach is another Newport neighborhood worth exploring: South Beach. You already likely know about a few of the highlights of this neighborhood: the Oregon Coast Aquarium is in South Beach, as are the Hatfield Marine Science Center and the Rogue Brewery. But spend a little more time here and you’ll find lesser-known treasures as well.

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TOLEDO

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Toledo Art and Soul The thriving arts scene in Toledo

Courtesy of Michael Gibbons

Maybe it’s the light: there’s no question that the sun shines more in Toledo than it does on the coast seven miles away. Maybe it’s the Yaquina River, which wends its way through town, a gorgeous natural muse. Or maybe it’s the relatively low cost of living in this small mill/fishing/logging town. Something about Toledo, Oregon nurtures art and attracts artists, more of whom seem to move to town and set up their easels and studios every year. It all started with landscape oil painter Michael Gibbons. Asked by a friend to look over the bones of the vicarage of the Episcopal Church in Toledo, which had been burned in a fire, to determine if

it was worth remodeling, he surveyed the building, fell in love, and bought it himself that day. It was 1981 and Toledo was still mainly a logging and mill town; Gibbons was definitely a horse of a different color. That was the germ of the Toledo Arts District not far from downtown that now includes Gibbons’ gallery and studio, the Yaquina River Art Museum, painter Ivan Kelly’s studio, rental spaces for artists, and much more. A recent visit with the Gibbonses revealed one wonder after another. The Vicarage, lovingly restored, is now the Gibbons’ home and gallery. Incredible art – Michael’s own as well as a lovingly-curated collec-

tion from all over the world – is everywhere. The inviting garden, which Judy tends herself, is full of charming nooks and crannies, as well as spectacular flowers and other plantings. Toledo is muse to Gibbons as well as home. Many of his rich, evocative, light-filled oils take Toledo as their subject. “We who are fortunate enough to live in the Pacific Northwest, one of the most beautiful places on Earth, are blessed beyond measure,” he has written. “The light, the palette of colors and the mystery are distinctive here.” Gibbons founded and curates the Yaquina River Museum of Art, also across the street from The oregon coast passport 37

Photo by News Times Staff

Vicarage. The museum has a small permanent collection which features a number of Gibbons’ works as well as works of Ivan Kelly, Bill Kucha, Marion Moir, Edward Young, Dee Boyles, and others. The thread that ties the works together is a connection to the land, water, and industry of the Yaquina River watershed. Rotating exhibits highlight pieces from the permanent collection as well as works of outside artists. A few houses away from The Vicarage is the studio and gallery of Ivan Kelly, who came to Toledo in the mid-1990s from Canada. Kelly’s subjects include western and Pacific Northwest landscapes, as well as big game portraits. He is particularly drawn to the interplay of light and shadow which create the spectrum of moods found in the inspiring natural areas he loves so much. Kelly exhibits nationwide, and has won numerous awards for his works. His works have been included in an exhibit at the Pacific Maritime Heritage Center in Newport and a touring exhibit sponsored by the American Society of Marine Artists, and hung in state Representative David Gomberg’s office in the Oregon State Capitol. The third founder of the Toledo arts scene is Douglas Haga, a painter, photographer, and print-maker. Haga came to the artist’s life via a circuitous route that included stints as a fisherman, soldier, logger, graphic designer, and short-order cook. He finds inspiration in the vistas of the Pacific Northwest, but also in surprising places like the vitriolic passion of a street preacher in San Francisco. His Black and Gold Series, painted with oversize brushes he makes himself, is particularly striking. The result is a stunning series of large pieces that resemble Zen calligraphy in shades of black, gold, and white. Haga now exhibits and sells his work at a number of spots in the county, including Ozone Gallery in nearby Newport. You’ll find creativity bursting out of a number of doors in Toledo’s downtown area as well. Be sure to check out Gallery Briseño, the home gallery of renowned sculptor Sam Briseño, who passed away in November of 2015, leaving a tremendous hole in the Lincoln County community. Sam’s gorgeous steel sculptures live on: his work ranges from graceful depictions 38 oregon coast passport

Courtesy of Michael Gibbons

Photo by Nancy Steinberg

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of local marine life to more abstract sculptural pieces reminiscent of his roots as an industrial millwright. His artwork is not confined to the gallery: look for his benches scattered throughout Toledo, his twenty-onefoot-tall sculpture “The Ambassador” across from the Newport Performing Arts Center, and his large and life-like octopus gracing the entryway at the Hatfield Marine Science Center Visitor Center in South Beach. Down the street is Toledo Clayworks, which is under new management by the talented and energetic Chasse Davidson. Davidson is a clay artist herself, who creates delicate pottery with gorgeous glazes, including magnificent raku pieces. Her work can be seen at Roger Yost Gallery in Newport, Michael Parsons Fine Art in Portland, and at Toledo Clayworks.

Toledo Clayworks is an open pottery studio where artists can find space, equipment, and materials to create all kinds of clay masterpieces, from wheel-thrown pots to hand-built sculptures. Artists can pay either by the day or the month for use of the studio, and they pay a small firing fee to use the studio’s multiple kilns. A resident glaze technician mixes glazes in a vast array of colors and finishes. Davidson requires new members to take a series of classes to ensure that they are proficient with the studio’s equipment and understand studio etiquette. Classes are also offered in a range of clay techniques, and Davidson has big plans for special events and additional educational programs. Toledo Clayworks, located in a former gallery space, will soon be a gallery again (it is on its way already, with works by 40 oregon coast passport

a number of local artists, Davidson included, on sale inside). Davidson serves as the President of the Toledo Arts Guild, an umbrella organization that supports and promotes all types of arts in east Lincoln County. The guild offers a way for Toledo-based artists to come together to respond to community projects and to offer educational programs. At the guild’s monthly meetings, which are open to the public, one member presents a workshop or seminar that ranges from introducing members to a new technique to providing guidance on how to build a website. Check toledoartsguild. com for event announcements and additional information. A map and brochure, “Art in Toledo, Oregon,” available at the venues mentioned and elsewhere, points the way to the numerous other studios, galleries, and public art in Toledo. In addition to visiting any of these galleries and studios during their regular open hours, visitors have multiple opportunities to experience the entire Toledo arts scene at once with monthly “First Weekend” art walks and the annual Art Walk on Labor Day Weekend. On the first weekend of every month, galleries and studios throw open their doors with receptions and openings, usually organized around a theme or featuring particular artists. During the annual Art Walk, the town explodes with art on every street corner and in every possible venue. This year, the third annual Plein Air Competition will be held the same weekend; maps, schedules, and participant lists will be available during the summer. Keep an eye on www.artintoledo.com for more information. Toledo’s artists have a range of reasons for coming to and staying in this small town. Gibbons says, “People who love the arts love an adventure,” leading them off the beaten path. Sarah Gayle, another Toledo-based artist, cites the “unbelievably kind and generous people” she’s met in Toledo. Every time I leave the sunny and warm Toledo downtown to head back into the fog bank enveloping Newport, I still think it could be the light.

Photo by Nancy Steinberg

When You Go

Gallery Michael Gibbons/The Vicarage 140 NE Alder St., Toledo (541) 336-2797 www.michaelgibbons.net Yaquina River Museum of Art 151 NE Alder St., Toledo (541) 336-1907 www.michaelgibbons.net/museum.htm Ivan Kelly Gallery 207 E. Graham St., Toledo (541) 336-1124 www.ivankelly.com Gallery Briseño 359 N. Main St., Toledo (541) 336-1315 www.facebook.com/GalleryBriseno/ Toledo Clayworks 305 N. Main St., Toledo (503) 999-5278 www.toledoclay.com

More to See

More fun in Toledo Olalla Lake – In a place that’s all about the ocean, it’s easy to forget the pleasure of playing in a lake. Toledo is home to the lovely, wooded Olalla Lake, actually a reservoir owned by GeorgiaPacific but open for public use. Bring a picnic, a fishing pole, a kayak, a mountain bike, a stand-up paddle board, or just a good book and bake in the sun here. Take Olalla Road off of Rt. 20 (east of the Dairy Queen turnoff to Toledo) to the end.

WALDPORT

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Come Play on Alsea Bay

Kayak, fish, dig for clams, or just gaze at Waldport’s beautiful bay

To the Alsi tribe, who lived along the Oregon coast between Seal Rock and Yachats as long as 8,000 years ago, the word “alsi” meant “peace.” Peace still pervades the small coastal town of Waldport, 16 miles south of Newport, where the Alsi used to live. It weaves its way through the town and dominates its landscape in the form of the clear, cool, gorgeous, fish-laden Alsea River and pristine Alsea Bay, the centerpiece of the town. Much of life in Waldport revolves around Alsea Bay and the critters that dwell there. Alsea Bay is an estuary, a place where the fresh water of a river meets and mixes with the salty sea. Estuaries are one of the most productive ecosystems on Earth, containing a vast diversity of plants and animals that are uniquely adapted to the brackish conditions there. The young life stages of many species, including most of the ones we love to eat, use estuaries as nursery areas, where the food is abundant, the conditions calm, and the hiding places plentiful. The wetlands that often fringe the shores of estuaries serve to filter out contaminants before they reach the ocean and protect the shoreline from flooding. So estuaries are important wherever they are found. Alsea Bay, one of the most pristine estuaries on the Oregon coast, is no exception. Its habitats include extensive 42 oregon coast passport

wetlands, mud flats, sandy shores, and even some rocky areas. The bay teems with life, much of it tasty and fun to harvest. Adult Chinook, coho, and chum salmon pass through on their way to upriver spawning sites, and the resultant babies use the estuary as a rest stop on their journey to the sea. Dungeness crab creep and crawl across the bottom, while clams burrow into the sediment. River otters frolic upriver, and seals haul out on sandy spits in the bay itself. Bald eagles soar overhead. In fact, the bird life in Alsea Bay is so diverse and abundant that the bay has been designated by the National Audubon Society as an Important Bird Area, so make sure to bring your binoculars when you come. One way to get an excellent introduction to some of the denizens of the bay, as well as instructions on how to harvest, clean, and cook them, is by attending a ranger talk at the Alsea Bay Historic Interpretive Center at the north end of the bridge in Waldport. State Parks naturalist Cameron Rauenhorst, otherwise known as “Ranger Clameron,” demonstrates clamming, crabbing, and shrimping techniques at a very entertaining presentation on summertime Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays at 10:00 am and 2:00 pm. He explains the ins and outs of crabbing, clamming, collecting mussels, and shrimping (forget visions of a peeland-eat dinner: ghost shrimp burrow in the

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sediments of the bay, and are used as bait). Then participants can follow him down to the shore and practice their clamming and shrimping techniques (adults need a shellfish license to keep their quarry - $9 for an annual permit for Oregon residents, $17.00 for a three-day license for out-of-staters and $26.00 for an out-of-state annual license. Youths age 12-17 can now get a $10 annual license that covers shellfishing, angling, and hunting.). July 2-4 will see the return of Clam-a-Rama, three days of clamming on the bay led by Ranger Clameron, complete with custom-made trophies for all kinds of clamming contests. Call Ranger Clameron with questions at (541) 270-8480. The Interpretive Center itself serves up the fascinating history of the Alsea Bay Bridge as well as other aspects of life in this part of Lincoln County. The building also doubles as the Chamber of Commerce for the town, and the staff are very friendly and knowledgeable about everything Waldportian – go ahead, ask them anything! Fishing in Alsea Bay is top-notch, particularly for Chinook salmon in the fall. Typically the salmon will congregate in the bay in late summer and early fall, moving upriver

to begin their spawning migration with the first big rainfalls of the season. Bay fishing is best in September and October. Most bay fishermen find success trolling, while bait fishing and fly fishing are used more in the tidewater sections of the river. Sportfishing regulations for Alsea Bay (and everywhere else in the state) can be found on the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife’s web site (www.dfw.state. or.us/resources/fishing/index.asp). If you want to try your hand at crabbing in one of the premiere spots in the state for catching these leggy critters, you can rent all the necessary equipment, including a boat, at Dock of the Bay Marina near the Port of Alsea. A 15-ft. boat, three crab rings, bait, and a crab measurer will run you $80 for the day. They’ll even cook your crabs for you. You can launch your own boat, motored or motorless, at the Port of Alsea’s boat launch. Just be cautious when boating in the bay: watch the tides so you don’t get stuck on a sand bar, and stay away from the turbulent “jaws” at the mouth of the bay. With so much to do in Alsea Bay, it might be tempting to cram it all in. Better to take it slow, spend a few days, and find that peace that the bay promises.

After a long day exploring the waterways and coastal forests of Alsea Bay, you’re going to need to refuel. Coastal dining options are superb, but ask any local on the coast where to get the best burger and they’ll point you to the Alsea. Try these local favorites. Vickie’s Big Wheel Drive Inn On Highway 101 before the Northern Bridge. 541-563-3640

Chubby’s Food Truck Parked at the corner of Highway 101 and West Willow Street 541-563-2867

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Salty Dawg Bar & Grill Near the Port of Alsea 541-563-2555

When You Go

Alsea Bay Historic Interpretive Center 620 NW Spring St., Waldport (541) 563-2002 www.oregonstateparks.org/ index.cfm?do=parkPage.dsp_ parkPage&parkId=143 Port of Alsea Picnic tables, boat launches 365-A Port St., Waldport (541) 563-3872 www.portofalsea.com Dock of the Bay Marina 1245 Mill St., Waldport (541) 563-2003 www.peak.org/~liteons13

More to See

More fun in Waldport Up the River – Alsea Bay is the end of the line for the beautiful Alsea River, which is popular for salmon and steelhead fishing, camping, catching crawfish, and swimming in the hot summer months. Take a leisurely drive up the river on Rt. 34 and stop at the parks and campgrounds that dot the shores. Reach the Beach – Like the rest of the coast, each of Waldport’s beaches is unique, so you’ll have to walk them all. Make sure to check out Governor Patterson State Recreation Site, Driftwood Beach, and Beachside State Recreation Site (a great place to camp). Great Gravel – The Oregon Coast Gravel Epic is a 70-mile endurance bike ride on the back gravel roads between Waldport and Yachats. If 70 miles (and 8,600 feet of climbing) sounds like a lot, you can register for shorter 37- or 10-mile versions. Challenging but beautiful! September 24, 2016. www.oregontriplecrown.com

YACHATS Yachats

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Eat Out in Yachats Pastries to pasta, cocktails to crab cakes, Yachats restaurants have something for everyone For a tiny town, Yachats has a lot of great places to eat. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks, snacks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you never have to leave town to get a great meal. Try these scrumptious spots, but branch out as well -- more culinary treasures await in this gem of a town. Bon appetit! Green Salmon Coffee House A great way to start your day is with breakfast at the Green Salmon, where the food is top-notch and the ethos is all about living lightly on the Earth. Their range of fair trade, organic coffees, teas, and cocoas are just the thing to get you moving. The local favorite on their extensive drink menu is the Coconut Crackout Mocha

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made with steamed coconut milk, but theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got a list for you to try, including the Kopi Jahe (ginger coffee with steamed light cream) and the Earl Grey Cocoa (cocoa infused with black tea and bergamot). All the food is also organic, and many of the ingredients are local. The pastries are flaky and sublime, from the cheese Danish to the marionberry blueberry bear claws. If you come back for lunch, the options include the Sacred Cow, a vegan answer to the Reuben sandwich (tempeh!); soup specials; Caesar salad; the ALT (another vegan option: avocado, lettuce, and tomato); and more. You can also purchase loose teas here from their extensive offerings. 220 Hwy 101 N. www.thegreensalmon.com

Drift Inn One of the best eateries in town is the historic Drift Inn, which offers a wide range of Northwest cuisine, some with an international twist, as well as live music every night. Perennial favorites here include the spicy yam empanadas appetizer served with a chimichurri sauce; the wild salmon served with a sorrel cream sauce; their twist on a seafood stew with a base of coconut broth, and the Persian rice bowl (caramelized onions, spinach, eggplant, pears, almonds, coconut and raisins in a mild curry sauce) with a choice of tempeh, chicken, halibut, shrimp, or steak. Another amazing choice is the wood-fired pizza served at dinner time. The menu includes many

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vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Drift Inn has a full bar, and whatever you do, do NOT skip dessert! 124 Hwy 101 N. www.the-drift-inn.com Adobe Resort Unless you’ve packed a picnic and are eating it on the beach, you can’t get closer to a waterfront meal than the wood-paneled dining room at the lovely Adobe Resort. No more than 50 feet from the surging surf; you may find yourself eating lunch practically alongside a grey whale. While the whale sucks down masses of tiny invertebrates, you can have the delicious salmon BLT on a light briochestyle roll and crispy French fries. Other popular lunch choices include the fried Alaskan cod sandwich and huge Caesar salads offered with toppings of chicken breast, pink shrimp, or smoked salmon. Dinner focuses on seafood, including grilled scallops, seafood fettuccine, and a nightly preparation of salmon; the menu is rounded out with pork, steak, chicken, and vegetarian options. The dining room serves breakfast as well, featuring yummy options such as a seafood omelet, apple gingerbread griddle cakes, and crab cake Benedict. The Sunday brunch buffet is a great deal. 1555 Hwy 101 www.adoberesort.com

Photo by News Times Staff

Ona Ona is right at the mouth of the tiny estuary where the Yachats River meets the ocean. The outdoor deck is a gorgeous spot to enjoy their Northwest cuisine on their seasonally-rotating menu. Ona prides itself on working with local food purveyors and serving dishes based on whatever’s in season on the coast and across Oregon. Their diverse menu includes seafood, sandwiches, steaks, chicken, a bit of pasta … in other words, something for everyone. One of the best deals in town is Ona’s Happier Hours in the lounge, 4-6 pm Sunday-Thursday. If you buy a happy hour drink at $4 ($4!), you can order off their happy hour discount food menu, which includes a range of grilled items with choice of grill sauces (flat iron steak or fish of the day for $7, chicken for $5, and more), Dungeness crab cakes for $6, falafel puppies for $5, and other great choices. 131 Highway 101 N www.onarestaurant.com Outta Gas Pizza Outta Gas Pizza, in the building at the north end of town that looks like a defunct gas station (because it is a defunct gas station), is a great place to get pizza, play shuffleboard, drink a beer, and meet the locals. They serve excellent pizza with fresh toppings

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as well as a few other breakfast (egg sandwich, biscuits and gravy, eggs & meat) and lunch items (BLT, burgers, tamales). Outta Gas’s story is as colorful as the Yachats regulars that hang out there: a few years ago, three Yachats buddies bought a lottery ticket together … and won a million dollars. With part of their pot of gold, they achieved a dream of opening a pizza place together. They’ve made Outta Gas into a great eatery, community hang-out, and venue for gatherings like family reunions. Make sure to fill up before you leave Yachats! 1685 Highway 101 N. www.outtagaspizza.com

More to See

More fun in Yachats Cape Perpetua – One place I take every new visitor to the coast is the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area just south of Yachats. Start at the Visitor Center to get an overview of the miles of trails and vast resources of the area, then hike or drive to the top of the Cape for an unparalleled view of the coast. Don’t miss the spouting horn and Thor’s Well! www. fs.usda.gov/recarea/siuslaw/ recarea/?recid=42265

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FLORENCE

50 oregon coast passport

Aero Legends Biplane Tours Soar over Florence in a 1944 Open-Cockpit Biplane.

The first thing that you’ll notice is the smell. Flying low over the valleys, rivers and beaches of Florence in the 1944 open-cockpit Stearman Biplane, you can smell everything. The pine trees, close enough you could grab a branch, the waves lapping against the coastal dunes, even a hint of a summer barbeque somewhere in downtown Florence. This tour is unlike anything you’ve been on before — you’ll feel the performance deep within this World War 52 oregon coast passport

II machine. You won’t circle Florence in high, slow circles. Instead prepare for tight turns, low passes and a fair share of stomach-churning maneuvers. It’s not all daredevil antics, though. The feeling of ocean air rushing against your face as you pass by the Heceta Head Lighthouse at eye level is unlike anything else you’ll experience during your visit to Florence. Soaring in Florence’s famous biplane is also like taking part in the city’s own history. The biplane is a Florence institution.

Residents have become accustomed to the muffled whirr of the old plane’s engine and its bright blue and yellow paint job passing overhead. They look skyward hoping to catch a glimpse of this airborne relic from another time. And a lot of them make their way to the Florence Municipal Airport to take a trip skyward in the colorful biplane that was built in 1944. Owned and operate by Florence local Sam Spayd for more than 20 years, the iconic aircraft recently changed

hands when Spayd decided it was time to buy something new to fly over the coast. Spayd’s decision to find a new plane came at a good time for recent retirees Terry and Winette. The Tomenys had been looking for a place on a lake with a nearby airport and they heard about Florence. Terry came for a visit and realized this was the perfect spot. They relocated, moved their piper cub to the airport and started getting to know their hanger neighbors, which included Spayd.

“About a year ago, a friend of ours mentioned to us that Sam was thinking of selling the Stearman, and so we talked to Sam. He said he was interested in selling the plane,” Terry said. “And I asked him, do you make any money doing this? And he said no. Then I asked him, do you lose any money doing this? And he said no. And then I said, perfect!” Tomeny recently retired from a long career flying F-16s in the Air Force and as a test pilot for Lockheed Martin. “Sam and I have very similar back-

grounds. We are both career Air Force guys that continued to fly afterwards. And one of the main things that connected the two of us is, we both have a real love for aviation. And we have both flown all kinds of stuff. Sam flew the big airliners and I flew the fast jets, but we both just love to fly,” Terry said. During your flight, the Stearman will cruise at about 70 mph which is slower than a typical tour aircraft, but without windows the tour seems faster than anything you’ve flown before. Because of Tomeny’s and the plane’s long oregon coast passport 53

history as performance fliers, the tour is able to take you deep into the lush valleys and hills that surround Florence. The Stearman is not only a beautiful plane to look at, but it also holds a prestigious place in aviation history. The Stearman series included the primary planes used to train pilots from the U.S. Navy and Air Force prior to World War II. There were more than 10,000 in use during this time, but after the war they were considered obsolete and thousands were sold to the public. The Stearmans were easily converted to commercial use with minor adaptations, and they became a valued element of farm life across America. Most were used as crop dusters. That was until Director Alfred Hitchcock used one to chase Cary Grant through a cornfield in his film, “North by Northwest.” Hitchcock reportedly used the plane because of its distinctive paint job, classic design and its recognizability among the public. This high-profile turn on the big screen sparked renewed interest in the Stearman and led to the plane becoming a collector’s item. Today very few remain available for public use. Swing through Florence on your coastal visit to take part in this plane’s historic journey. 54 oregon coast passport

When You Go

Aero Legends Florence Municipal Airport www.aerolegends.com 541-991-3579

More to See

More fun in Florence Dune buggy rides – Take a scenic but adrenalinepumping ride through the Oregon Dunes with Sandland Adventures. www.sandland.com Shop, walk, and eat – Stroll around historic Old Town and check out the range of great restaurants and eclectic shops. florencechamber.com/historic-old-town/ Explore Honeyman State Park – Honeyman State Park three miles south of Florence boasts one of the largest campgrounds in the state. Two lakes, sand dunes, beaches, a boat ramp, picnic areas, and other amenities also make it a fabulous destination. Rent sand boards or kayaks nearby. oregonstateparks.org

Plan your epic vacation today! FlorenceChamber.com/Adventures 541-997-3128

Come for the Fun! Winter Music Festival Second Weekend of January Home & Garden Show March 3, 4, 5 Florence Fest â&#x20AC;&#x2122;17: Wine, Art, Jazz March 31, April 1

Always Something Happening

110th Annual Rhododendron Festival May 19-21

Our 21,000 sq. ft. conference center and 455-seat theater are home to world-class entertainment, local productions, and are available for you! Make the Florence Events Center your special occasion destination for:

Concerts Banquets Reunions Weddings Trade Shows Live Theater

eventcenter.org | 541.997.1994

8th Annual Wings and Wheels July 1 Independence Day Celebration July 4 Annual Rods â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N Rhodies Invitational Car Show & Communitywide Garage Sale Sept. 8-10 Wine Walk, Chowder Fest and Great Glass Float Giveaway October 7, 8 Oktoberfest October 14 Veterans Day Parade November 11 Florence Holiday Festival November 24-26

florencechamber.com | 541.997.3128

We have a complete selection of food & supplies for your: Dogs, Cats, Birds, Fish, Reptiles, Small Animals, & Rodents

ALL PETS WELCOME! Open 7 days a week Mon-Sat 9am-7pm Sun 10am-6pm

Your Petâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Favorite Store, Paws Down.

Our premium food brands include:

Our products and services include:

Canidae Diamond Nutro Science Diet Eukanuba Friskies Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Recipe

Supplements Health Care Vitamins Medications Pet Books

Whiskas Pro Plan Avoderm Pinnacle Chicken Soup Taste of the Wild

Evolve Fromm Natural Balance Pedigree Go! Now! Triumph

Toys Carriers Cages Furniture Beds Premium Brands

Specialty Products Grooming Home Care Products Special Orders, Where Possible

Visit our other great coastal locations: 1740 N. Coast Hwy. Newport, OR 97365 541-265-8355

1450 NE Hwy 101 Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-557-1911

2630 Hwy 101 Florence, OR 97439 541-997-7035

1609 Virginia Ave. North Bend, OR 97459 541-756-1562

815 S. Broadway Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-435-7811

Visit our other great locations: Bend, Eugene, Grants Pass, Medford, Roseburg, & Springfield