Travel newport Summer 2015 by News-Times

EVERYTHING NEWPORT, OREGON ¦ SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Lighthouses Scuba Diving Sailing, Golf and so much more!

TravelNewportOregon.com

Publisher James Rand Advertising Contacts Barbara Moore Teresa Barnes John Anderson Krisstina Borton Kathy Wyatt Editor Nancy Steinberg Contributors Nancy Steinberg Jo-Hanna Wienert Jim Burke Rick Beasley Fran Mathews DiscoverNewport.com Newport Chamber of Commerce

From the Editor

just returned from a dream vacation, one that my family and I had been planning for a long time: a trip to the Galapagos Islands and mainland Ecuador. We saw and experienced many spectacular things, from close encounters with sea turtles and marine iguanas to touring the Spanish colonial cathedrals in the historic section of Quito. I’ll bet you’re thinking that the message here is going to be “there’s no place like home.” While that’s true, and a wave of joy did wash over me as the Yaquina Bay Bridge finally came into view on our journey home, I learned another important travel lesson from this trip. Some of the most memorable adventures we had in Ecuador were “local” experiences, rather than tourist experiences. We attended a soccer (futbol!) match between two local pro teams. We ate at nontourist restaurants and had to muddle our way through ordering off a menu written entirely in Spanish. We shopped at the neighborhood grocery store and the indigenous market. Here in Newport, it’s easy to do the same: experience the best of our world-class tourist attractions but come play alongside the locals as well. Buy fish off the docks, the way we do when we host a barbeque. Surf at Agate Beach and build a bonfire – we’re happy to share our marshmallows. Sail with members of the Yaquina Bay Yacht Club. Come see our home-town symphony perform patriotic music on the Fourth of July. You’ll find the how-tos for all the best local and visitor experiences right here in these pages. Enjoy!

Nancy Steinberg Editor

Cover Photo Jo-Hanna Wienert www.jofotos.com Design

| eongdi.com

A Publication of the

Travel Newport is published twice a year by the News-Times. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The News-Times made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

w w w .Tr a v e l N e w p o r t O r e g o n . c o m

EXPERIENCE

LIVE

LEARN

PLAY

Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

Fourth of July Lighthouses Birding Beaches Bayfront Nye Beach Buying fish off the docks Celtic Festival Music The Arts Glass Floats HMSC Aquarium Shipwrecks Marine Discovery Tours North, South, East, West Sailing Golfing Diving Camping

8. 10. 14. 16. 20. 22. 28. 30. 32. 34. 36. 40. 44. 46. 48. 50. 54. 56. 60. 62.

Special Memorial Day Tribute - May 23, 2015 - 2 to 5pm Yoshiro Ikeda

Recognizing the passing of two great artists. On display through mid-June.

Jozef Halas

FREED GALLERY — A MECCA FOR ART ON THE OREGON COAST! It is hard to believe, but the Freed Gallery is entering its 19th year on the Oregon Coast! In the Spring, the commanding stone sculptures of Kazutake Uchida are surrounded by the glorious bursting forth of colorful rhododendrons and the constantly whirling kinetic sculptures of Lyman Whitaker. A flower lined walkway leads one from the parking lot past the scented roses to the double doors and an invitation to explore the 4000 square feet of art that includes two dimensional wood, metal, ceramic, glass, weavings and jewelry. The Freed represents many artists in all mediums from the Pacific Northwest. Many of them are on the contemporary side although some favor realism and some capture the beauty of our surroundings. The Freed brings international artists to the Northwest. Artists from all over the world grace the gallery floors. The newest find is Ryozo Morishita, who just completed a residency at Sitka Art Center and has returned to Japan.

info@freedgallery.com

Of special interest this year will be a Memorial Weekend show honoring two famous artists who have recently passed away. Jozef Halas, internationally famous painter and educator who lived in Wroclaw, Poland, chose the Freed Gallery as the only gallery in the United States in which to display his work. Professor Halas’ work will be on display at the Freed in May with a special showing on May 23. Sadly, we also lost Yoshiro Ikeda recently. Yoshi was a member of the gallery for many years. Originally from Japan, Ikeda was for many years professor of art at Kansas State University. His incredible ceramics will also be available. His wife, Esther, will be at the gallery to speak about his unique art. The show will be from 2pm to 5pm with work on display all month. “We look forward to an exciting season featuring great artists from around the world” says Lee Freed. We particularly enjoy meeting people from around the world who find their way to Lincoln City and the Freed Gallery.

6 11 9 S W H w y 1 0 1 , L i n c o l n C i t y, O R

www.freedgallery.com

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EXPERIENCE

4th of July

10. Lighthouses 14. Birding 16. Beaches 20. Bayfront 22. Nye Beach Photos by: Jo Wienert

A Whiz-Bang Independence Day Newport’s got what you need for the best July 4 ever By Nancy Steinberg

ireworks? Check. Sousa marches? Check. Awesome beer? We got it. Sand and surf? None better. There is no more perfect place to celebrate Independence Day than Newport. Here’s a perfect July 4, all planned out for you. Let the celebration begin! 8:30 am: Kick the day off right with a 5K, 10K, or half marathon trail race. Ardor Adventures will present the third annual 4th of July Celebration Run, which will include the three race options this year. The race begins and ends near Big Creek Park in Newport, with routes that will offer panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, the Yaquina Bay Bridge, and Big Creek reservoir. All emergency service personnel (police, fire fighters, EMTs, etc.), active military, and veterans run for free. The races will be followed with a barbeque and beer for the grownups. For registration and more information about this and other running events throughout the year, see Ardor Adventures’ web site at www. ardoradventures.com. 11 am: Because July 4 is on a Saturday this year, the weekly Newport Farmer’s Market will be in full swing from 9 am to 1 pm at its new location on Angle Street at Highway 101 across from Newport City Hall. Vendors sell delicious organic fruits,

Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

vegetables, and meats, and you’ll have your pick of amazing crafts, from walking sticks to knit hats (always handy at the coast even in July) to beaded jewelry. Food products like jams and salsas are also available, and yes, the long line for Pacific Sourdough’s breads and baked treats is totally worth it. 1 pm: Stock up on provisions for your picnic or barbecue at Rogue Ales’ garage sale, held every holiday weekend at the brewery in South Beach. Great bargains are to be had on Rogue’s best brews and gear like t-shirts and pint glasses. You could also stop in the brewery itself for lunch overlooking scenic South Beach Marina. 2122 SE Marine Science Drive. 4 pm: It’s time for some patriotic music to really get you in the spirit of the 4th. The Newport Symphony Orchestra offers a free pops concert to the community every 4th of July, courtesy of some generous business sponsors, including Mo’s Restaurants, Oregon Coast Bank, and Bigfoot Beverages. This popular event, at Newport Middle School (825 NE 7th St.), attracts hundreds of attendees every year who tap and clap along with Sousa marches, Broadway favorites, and the orchestra’s annual salute to our armed forces. Music Director Adam Flatt conducts. Admission is free, and doors open at 3 pm. (The symphony presents another familyfriendly concert the next day, July 5: NSO at the Movies – see www.newportsymphony.org for more information.) 6 pm: You can’t skip a little beach time on July 4. Now is a good time to have a picnic or bonfire at the beach, roast some hot dogs or eat your leftover kettle corn from the Farmers Market. Dusk: Newport’s fireworks display never fails to amaze and delight. Fireworks are set off from a barge in Yaquina Bay at dusk (around 9 pm). Good viewing areas include anywhere along the Bayfront and from the Yaquina Bay Bridge (on foot!). One super option that will get you up close to the action is to go out with Marine Discovery Tours, which offers special fireworks cruises on their vessel on July 4. See www.marinediscovery.com for more info. After the fireworks, it’s another Saturday summer night in Newport, and the regular haunts will all be open: Café Mundo, the Sand Bar, and Nana’s in Nye Beach, the Barge Inn and Rogue Ales Public House on the Bayfront, and many more. Enjoy your holiday!

Celebrations to the North and South Unique and fun Independence Day celebrations can be found to the north and south of Newport, as well. Here is some other regional July 4 fun:

Yachats: La-De-Da Parade

Yachats, 25 miles south of Newport, always marches to the beat of a different drummer, so why should July 4 be any different? This may be the weirdest July 4 parade in the state. Anyone can enter, and wackiness is heartily encouraged. Parade organizers particularly encourage entries that incorporate forest, ocean, wind, rain, and nautical themes. For more information, see www.yachats.org.

Waldport: Early Fireworks

One night of fireworks is never enough in early July, so Waldport traditionally holds their town’s display on the night of July 3. Fireworks are set off over the bay, so any of the bayshore beaches or even the Alsea Bay Bridge are good spots for watching. The booms begin at dusk.

Gleneden Beach: More Quirkiness Abounds

This July 4 parade in this small town between Newport and Lincoln City might give Yachats a run for its money in terms of quirkiness and grassrootsy fun. Like the La-De-Da Parade, this parade takes all comers, even on the day of the parade. There is usually a drill team marching in nothing resembling a formation at all, carrying power drills. Dogs are offered prime spots in the parade. A community breakfast is offered before the parade, along with vendors, clowns, and more at Eden Hall on the Gleneden loop. All the info is at www.glenedenbeach.org.

Guiding Lights

Newportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two lighthouses shine through the darkest, stormiest nights

ighthouse lovers rejoice: Newport is lucky enough to have two picturesque lighthouses that were historically used to guide and warn ships at sea. These historic treasures are now landmarks and tourist destinations as well as icons of our beautiful city. Make sure to visit both while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here.

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse

A piece of Oregon history sits atop a bluff at the mouth of the Yaquina River: the historic Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, built in 1871 and decommissioned in 1874, having been made obsolete by the new Yaquina Head Lighthouse just up the coast a few miles. It was officially restored as a privately maintained aid to navigation on December 7, 1996. This old girl, believed to be the oldest structure in Newport, is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. It is also the only existing

Oregon lighthouse with the living quarters attached, and the only historic wooden Oregon lighthouse still standing. It is also rumored to be haunted, although the haunting story seems to have originated with a fiction short story written in 1899. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse has been restored to its original condition by the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department (OPRD), with the help of many people and agencies, including Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses. Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses is a private 501(c)3 nonprofit organization formed by local citizens to provide and support the restoration, education and interpretive services of the park. This organization relies heavily on volunteer support in all areas of operation. The official relighting ceremony with the US Coast Guard took place on December 7, 1996. The light, 161 feet above sea level, shines with a steady white light from dusk to dawn (and sometimes on dark days, Lighthouses continued on page 12

Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

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Lighthouses continued from page 10

because it is controlled by a photocell). The Lighthouse is open to the public every day except for holidays such as Christmas, New Years, and Thanksgiving. Entrance is free by donation. The lighthouse is accessible via paved trails and a walkway leading to the top of the hill within Yaquina Bay State Park, at the north end of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. Access-compromised visitor groups are encouraged to use the large parking lot at the back of the lighthouse (entrance at SW Government and 9th Streets). Inside the lighthouse, two flights of stairs lead to the watch room. The lantern room is not open to the public. The basement is open to the public and features a video about the lighthouse. The interpretive store offers many educational items about lighthouses and the surrounding coastal habitat. The lighthouse is now surrounded by beautiful Yaquina Bay State Park, which includes walking trails through forested lands, a fishermen’s memorial, a scenic overlook that provides great views of the entrance to Yaquina Bay and the Yaquina Bay Bridge, and beach access.

Yaquina Head Lighthouse

With more than 350,000 visitors a year, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse is one of the West Coast’s most visited lighthouses. Located just north of Newport in the federal Bureau of Land Management’s Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse was built in 1873, and remains an excellent example of late 1800s lighthouses. At 93 feet, the tower is the tallest lighthouse in Oregon. Located on a narrow point of land jutting due west into the Pacific Ocean, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse took more than a year to build, using more than 370,000 bricks. The light has been active since Head Keeper Fayette Crosby first walked up the 114 steps to light the wicks on the evening of August 20, 1873. During this time, the oil-burning, fixed white light was displayed from sunset to sunrise. Today, the fully automated first order Fresnel lens runs on commercial power, flashing its unique pattern of two seconds on, two seconds off, two seconds on, 14 seconds off, 24 hours a day. The oil burning wicks were replaced with a 1,000-watt globe which, according to the U.S. Coast Guard, keepers of the aid to navigation, generates over 130,000 candlepower. While the nightly vigil of watching the light is gone, as are the resident keepers and their quarters, the Bureau of Land Management, who is now responsible for the tower, guides visitors through the lighthouse with tales of yesteryear, year round. The interpretive center, which opened at Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area in May 1997, is the best place to start your visit to this 100 acre site. It houses exhibits related to many features of the area, along with a well-stocked interpretive store. Proceeds from store sales directly benefit Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses, and are used for lighthouse restoration, education, interpretation, and maintenance. Yaquina Head offers much more than the lighthouse: Trails provide easy access to view marine wildlife in tide pools, rookery rocks, and coves. The Lighthouse is open to the public every day except for Thanksgiving and Christmas. For more information on either lighthouse, go to www.yaquinalights. org. Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

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Chirp Thrills Summer birding in Newport by Nancy Steinberg

o you spend large portions of your weekends and holidays viewing the world through binoculars or a spotting scope? Can you identify the call of the Spotted Towhee more readily than your spouse’s voice? Are you likely to drive more than 100 miles from your home to catch a glimpse of a Northern Beardless Tyrannulet? If so, you are probably an avid birder, and there’s no cure for your condition. But there is a treatment: the excellent bird-watching opportunities in and around Newport. Birding in Newport is fun and fruitful in all seasons, but spring and summer are particularly good – less chance of getting pelted by horizontal rain, for one thing. From the beaches to the dunes to the coastal forests, you’ll find scores of birds to add to your life list. Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Yaquina Bay are both designated as Important Bird Areas nationally and by the state. In addition, there are three other IBAs nearby at the Salmon River estuary, Siletz Bay, and Alsea Bay. Feathered friends abound; here’s a guide to where to find them.

Beverly Beach State Park

Great examples of shorebirds and other marine species can be observed at the Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

expansive beach here (and at Newport’s other beaches as well). Look for Western and Hermann’s Gulls, Common Loons, and Brown Pelicans flying by, and sanderling, whimbrel, and Western Sandpiper on the sand. In the park and campground, you can find Pileated Woodpecker, Band-tailed Pigeon, Swainson’s Thrush, Pacific Slope Flycatchers, Brown Creepers, and Wilson’s Warbler.

Yaquina Head

From April through July, tens of thousands of Common Murres and many cormorants, both Brandts and Pelagic, will be seen on nearby offshore rocks at this site. On the cliffs gulls, Pigeon Guillemots, and Pelagic Cormorants maintain precarious nests. Bald Eagles are a common summertime sight, as they prey on the young seabirds on the offshore rocks. Other summer birds include Black Oystercatchers, Western Gulls, and Brown Pelicans. If you’re very lucky, you could spot an occasional Marbled Murrelet or Peregrine Falcon.

Bay Road

Yaquina Bay Road, extending from the Bayfront neighborhood to Toledo, is a great place to spot a range of birds year-round. Stop at pullouts along the way to view loons, grebes, ducks and gulls. Other species that frequent the bay here include brandt, Great Blue Heron,

Great Egret, Green Heron, and Snowy Egret. Winter birds include Dunlin, Western and Least Sandpiper, and Black Turnstones. One must-stop spot on the road is Sally’s Bend, near the LNG tanks (1702 Yaquina Bay Road). “Walk west of the road to view terrestrial birds like Western Meadowlark, Northern Shrike, Killdeer, and Wilson’s Snipe, American Pipit and Western Kingbird in spring,” advises the Oregon Coast Birding Trail web site (www. oregoncoastbirding.com). Other likelies are Bald Eagles and a range of waterbirds in spring (Canvasback, American Wigeon, scoters, mergansers, and grebes among them). Belted Kingfishers are often found on the power lines along the bay side of the road.

Estuary Trail

The Estuary Trail traverses the edge of Yaquina Bay on the campus of the Hatfield Marine Science Center in South Beach. Over 3,000 feet of trail offer year-round public access to the estuary, and interpretive signs are placed along the trail, with an observation shelter provided approximately midway. Parts of the trail and facilities are accessible to the physically challenged. This trail is a feast at any time of year. “Peak shorebird migration is late April; expect Dunlin, Western and Least Sandpiper, Semipalmated Plover, Whimbrel,

and Long-billed Curlew,” advises the Oregon Coast Birding Trail. Birds of prey, including Bald Eagle, Merlin, and White-tailed Kite are seen here as well.

events/animals-agriculture/internationalmigratory-bird-day/).

South Jetty

Many habitats come together at the South Jetty at the mouth of Yaquina Bay and the trails that extend from there south to South Beach State Park. Along the South Jetty Road, look for loons, cormorants, Pigeon Guillemots, and Harlequin Ducks. The coastal dunes along the paved walking trail offer the opportunity to spy a range of species, including swallows, flycatchers, and Cedar Waxwing. To maximize your birding success, be sure to consult with the excellent web site of the Oregon Coast Birding Trail (www.oregoncoastbirding. com) for maps, species lists, and more. In addition, local birders flock together via the Yaquina Birders and Naturalists (yaquina.info/ ybn/), a group that meets monthly and offers guided birding trips. If you want to hang out with other bird nerds, or if you’re a first-timer and want to learn more, consider heading to Newport for International Migratory Bird Day on May 10. Free beginner and intermediate bird walks and other fine feathered festivities will be offered (find more info at traveloregon.com/see-do/

Beachy Keen

A guide to Newport’s magnificent beaches, north to south by Nancy Steinberg

isitors come to Newport for many reasons – restaurants, attractions like the Oregon Coast Aquarium, fishing opportunities, the shops of the Bayfront and Nye Beach – but everyone knows that the main attraction is the beach. Locals love it. Visitors love it. We all walk and surf and fly kites and romp and picnic and dig and beachcomb and escape there. But which beach to choose for a given outing? Here’s an insider’s guide to the beaches of Newport, each a bit different from the next, and each absolutely stunning.

Beverly Beach

Access: from the Beverly Beach State Park Day Use Area, easy access over mostly level ground and a few rocks Amenities: Campground, bathrooms, picnic tables, water fountain, nature center (at state park) Don’t Miss: Fossils! At the northern end of Newport is Beverly Beach, accessed easily at the day use area of Beverly Beach State Park at 123rd Street. The entrance to the beach is right next to Spencer Creek, which winds through the state park and empties onto the sand here. What really sets Beverly Beach apart is its rich trove of fossils that erodes out of the cliffs lining the beach. Winter storms eat away at the cliffs and then deposit these ancient treasures on the beach. You can find clams and other shellfish from the Astoria formation, about 18 million years old, as well as rarer finds like whale vertebrae, crabs, and shark teeth.

Moolack Beach Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

Moolack Beach

Access: Multiple fairly steep trails from the official parking area can be slippery – take care scrambling down Amenities: None Don’t Miss: The opportunity for a long walk with a view to Yaquina Head Just south of Beverly Beach and north of Yaquina Head is Moolack Beach. Moolack is also a good place for fossil- and agatehunting, and a surfing destination. The best thing about this beach is that it is typically uncrowded, yet provides a wide, flat beach for kite flying, sand castle building, Frisbee tossing, and other typical beach activities.

Cobble Beach at Yaquina Head

Access: Stairs, stairs, stairs Amenities: Bathrooms at the Visitor Center and near the lighthouse, interpretive displays and small gift shop at the Visitor Center Don’t Miss: Tide pools Among the treasures of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area is Cobble Beach, where the beach consists of largish volcanic black stones rather than sand. Past the cobbles are some of the best tide pools in the area, accessible at low tide and home to a near-infinite variety of sea anemones, sea stars, urchins, nudibranchs, crabs, mussels, and other critters. The towering offshore rocks here provide habitat for nesting birds in the summer time, and seals frequently haul

out and rest on the smaller offshore rocks and also on the shore at the north end of the beach.

Agate Beach

Access: Three access points along the length of the beach: the Agate Beach Wayside on Oceanview Drive, the Lucky Gap trail with parking at the south end of the Roby’s Furniture parking lot on Hwy 101, and down a very steep and sometimes-slippery trail near the north end of the beach – park in the small lot across from the Lighthouse Diner or on the road and walk down toward the beach. At all access points a creek usually needs to be crossed to get to the surf line – usually at the Wayside it’s either small enough to jump across or someone has laid wood across it. Amenities: Bathrooms and picnic tables at the Agate Beach Wayside; none at other access points Don’t Miss: Surfers near Yaquina Head While it’s actually not easy to find an agate on Agate Beach these days, the delights of this beach are innumerable. When the summer wind comes from the north, Yaquina Head provides a wind break at the north end of the beach, allowing it to really heat up at that spot even when people are shivering in their fleeces a short distance to the south. One of the most popular activities at this beach is surfing, particularly at the north end of the beach. The rocks near the headland, Beaches continued on page 18

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Agate Beach

Beaches continued from page 16

exposed at low tide, hide crabs and other animals seemingly placed there just to delight children with buckets.

Nye Beach

Access: The main access to Nye Beach is at the Nye Beach Turnaround in the neighborhood of Nye Beach. Access is very easy – just a very short ramp from the parking lot and you’re on the sand. Amenities: Bathrooms and picnic tables at the Turnaround, as well as a foot wash. Don’t Miss: Jumpoff Joe Nye Beach is probably the most visited beach in Newport, as it is easily accessible, adjacent to the funky neighborhood of Nye Beach, and wide and lovely. To the north of the turnaround is the remains of Jumpoff Joe, what used to be a sandstone sea stack that has eroded away. One great thing about Nye Beach is its proximity to the shops and restaurants of Nye Beach. Coffee, pastries, ice cream, and more can all be purchased and snacked on at the beach.

Yaquina Bay State Park

Access: Stairs, some paved walkway, and trails through the dunes Amenities: Bathrooms and picnic area near the parking lot, Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, Fishermen’s Memorial Sanctuary Don’t Miss: Walking through the dunes The next beach access as you head south is at Yaquina Bay State Park, home of the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. From the main parking area you can look down on the entrance to Yaquina Bay and watch the boats come and go, and get a great view of the Yaquina Bay Bridge as well. Unique to this beach is the walk through the dunes behind the beach that you can take in order to access the shore. You can also walk part of the way out onto the rock jetty on the north side of the bay entrance. The bay entrance itself is a constant source of entertainment, with boats coming and going, seals and sea lions foraging, and a wide array of marine birds diving, swimming, and swooping.

South Beach

Access: Easy access over a dune trail at the day use area of South Beach State Park south of the bridge Amenities: Bathrooms and picnic tables, campground, paved and unpaved nature trails behind the dunes Don’t Miss: Walking and biking trails South Beach is perfect for walking, surfing, boogie boarding, and just about any other beach activity you like. To the north of the beach access is the south jetty at the entrance to Yaquina Bay. The special bonus at South Beach is the set of trails, both paved and unpaved, that parallels the shore just behind the dunes. These trails, which include a great paved path perfect for family bike rides and the Cooper Ridge hiking trail, connect South Beach State Park with the South Jetty recreation area, as well as with the campground within the park. One side trail is an ADA-accessible interpretive boardwalk trail that provides information about the natural history of the area.

Ona Beach

Access: Short walk from parking lot (8 miles south of Newport) over the bridge spanning Beaver Creek, easy footing to get onto the beach Amenities: Bathrooms and picnic tables near the parking area, boat launch across Rte. 101 Don’t Miss: Beaver Creek Ona Beach State Park, now called Brian Booth State Park, is the gateway to activities of both salt and freshwater. From the park’s beach access you can walk far to the south. When winter storms scour sand off the beach, gorgeous rock formations are revealed. Beaver Creek spills out onto the beach here, flowing under a picturesque bridge and over rocks to empty into the ocean. Slightly further upstream the creek provides excellent opportunities for canoeing and kayaking through productive and spectacular wetlands teeming with life.

Bonfire Basics There’s no reason for beach fun to end when daylight does: hang around a while longer and have a bonfire on the beach. An entire dinner can be made from things you roast over an open fire on a stick (if you consider hot dogs and marshmallows major food groups), and it’s a scientific fact that all beverages taste better when sipped by a bonfire. First, the rules. Bonfires are welcome on Oregon’s beaches oceanward of the vegetation line and far from piles of driftwood. Only portable pieces of wood are to be burned – state law prohibits lighting fire to stationary logs and stumps. Make sure to extinguish your fire with water, not just with sand. Rules can vary by beach so be sure to heed posted rules at beach access points. Other common sense: clean up your mess and don’t leave halfburned trash on the beach. Sometimes driftwood is wetter than it looks, so it might be helpful to bring kindling with you, even some old newspapers. Don’t forget the matches. Then simply follow your old boy scout/girl scout rules – make a teepee of small wood over the burning kindling, and add larger wood as the fire grows. It could be handy to have a flashlight for getting off the beach when the party is over. While all Newport beaches are good spots for bonfires, popular spots include Nye Beach and Agate Beach because access is easy. The “surfer beach” at the very north end of Agate Beach, up against Yaquina Head, is where many locals tend to go – access can be a little trickier but one reward of this spot is that Yaquina Head blocks the summer wind, frequently providing a warm oasis even on windy days and nights. One final instruction: eat s’mores. Lots of s’mores. It’s kind of a rule here.

800-648-2119 541-996-3623

fax: 541-996-5585 www.oceanterrace.com 4229 SW Beach Ave., Lincoln City

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Newport’s Historic Bayfront Food, Fun, and the Fishing Fleet by Nancy Steinberg

o coastal community in the U.S. integrates a working waterfront with a tourist destination better than Newport, where fish processing plants and fish restaurants exist and flourish side by side. The Historic Bayfront is Newport’s main working waterfront, where most of the substantial fishing fleet ties up, bringing much of their catch to the fish processing plants that line the bay side of the street. At the same time, this neighborhood is also bursting with eclectic treasure-filled shops and engaging attractions. Here are a few highlights to help you scratch the surface of this diverse and exciting area, but behind every shop door are more surprises, so explore, explore, explore!

Great Meals

The diverse flavors of the Bayfront pose a diner’s dilemma for every meal. Where to eat? A range of Asian flavors as well as a spectacular bay view can be found at the Noodle Café. Start with the fresh, simple, delicious shrimp basil rolls: rice wrappers packed with large shrimp, rice noodles, and herbs, with a sweet-spicy dipping sauce. You can choose from main dishes originating in a range of Asian countries: curries, stir fries, noodle dishes, kimchee, and pho, among others. On a cool day the pho or spicy seafood broth called jung bong both particularly hit the spot. Another favorite is the wok-tossed udon, a house special of shrimp, scallops, calamari, and vegetables tossed with udon noodles and a soy garlic sauce. At the opposite end of the street is the charming and cozy Coffee Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

House, open for breakfast and lunch. While you wait for your superb coffee to brew or for your hang-over-the-plate pancake or fluffy omelet to come off the griddle, you can watch the fishing fleet come and go right across the street. Crisp crab cakes are made with locally harvested Dungeness crab. Lunch options include hot sandwiches on homemade focaccia bread, hearty clam chowder, and catch-of-the-day fish and chips. One unique specialty of the house is the house-made traditional Australian pastie, a flaky pastry crust filled with savory goodness: parsnip, turnip, carrot, onion, potato and special herbs. They have a meat-lovers’ version as well, for which they add premium Angus beef to the veggies. If you’d like your meal to be accompanied by wildlife viewing, check out Port Dock One, where locals and visitors meet and mingle. The whole restaurant, but particularly the upstairs dining and lounge area (limited to those over 21), has one of the best dining views in Newport. Port Dock One’s steaks, seafood, salads, burgers, and sandwiches nearly always come with a side show of barking sea lions, who hang out on the floating docks just below. More about these residents in a minute.

Shopping Deals

There’s something for everyone in the shops of the Bayfront. Inscapes Gallery carries a wide range of art, decorative items, furniture, jewelry, and other goods, all handmade. You could get lost just in this one store’s

huge inventory. Some especially wonderful treasures here include turned wooden bowls, kaleidoscopes, musical instruments, art prints, and gorgeous rocking chairs. Check out the incredibly detailed lifelike sculptures in a range of metals and woods. Those with a sweet tooth have multiple options, including Newport Candy Shoppe and Aunt Belinda’s Candies. At both there is a dazzling selection of creative flavors of salt-water taffy made with real egg whites rather than oil. You can watch the taffy being made on a mesmerizing taffy-pulling machine in the window of Newport Candy Shoppe. If taffy isn’t your bag, here you can also indulge in caramel corn, chocolate confections, and jawbreakers made for a range of jaw sizes. At Aunt Belinda’s you can also find old fashioned cooked creams, truffles, fudge, and a whimsical selection of metal lunchboxes in which to carry your sweet treasures. Another gallery with a gorgeous selection of items is Oceanic Arts, which features works of local and regional artists, much of it inspired by the sea around us. Artist Mike Correll’s huge deep-toned bells made from recycled steel tanks are one of the first things that will catch your eye. Other covetables here include colorful and functional pottery, affordable fused glass picture frames and photo holders, Gary Manos’s burnished stainless steel wall sculptures of local marine life, and originals and prints from a range of artists. If you think that “Life is Good,” and who doesn’t when they’re at the beach, show it off in a range of “Life is Good” t-shirts and other items also available at Oceanic Arts. Finally, don’t miss the sights and smells of Newport Bay Candle Company. This local business pours its candles at a facility near the Safeway on Rte. 101, but their Bayfront retail shop shows off the best of their handmade wares, as well as soaps, jewelry, and gift items. They produce many gel candles which burn two to three times as long as soy- or wax-based ones. All of their products come in a stunning array of scents, from the traditional (Gingerbread, Lilac) to the quirkily evocative (My Boyfriend’s Shirt, Butterfly Kisses). Popular items here include At the Beach candles embedded with shells and other beach treasures, and “liquid lights,” gel candles molded in wine glasses that glimmer in winy shades when lit.

Rods and Reels

Down at the far end of the Bayfront you can see the vessels of Newport’s fishing fleet tied up. Interpretive signs along the Port Dock marinas explain the differences among the kinds of boats in port and tell a bit of the story of our proud fishing fleet and the types of quarry they pursue. In the summer months you can often buy fish right off the boats here (see p. 28), including albacore tuna, salmon, crabs, rockfish, and lingcod. Even if you’re not in the market for something for dinner, it’s fun to walk along all of the docks and dream of the seafaring life. If you’re not content to let the commercial fishing fleet do the work for you, you can hop on a charter fishing boat, a number of which are headquartered along the Bayfront, and do the catching yourself.

They’re Not Seals!

Finally, a few words about those immense and loud marine mammals you can hear from all along the Bayfront, and see on the docks near Port Dock One. These are male California sea lions hauled out to take a break from stalking fishy prey in the bay. While more of them hang around in the late fall and winter after the breeding season is over, you can find the older bulls here pretty much year-round. Follow the racket to the Undersea Gardens and you can look down onto the recently-replaced docks where these guys hang out.

When You Go: Noodle Café

837 SW Bay Blvd. 541-574-6688

Coffee House

156 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-6263

Port Dock One

325 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2911

Inscapes Gallery

818 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-6843

Newport Candy Shoppe 440 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2580

Aunt Belinda’s Candies 640 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2075

Oceanic Arts

444 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-5963

Newport Bay Candle Company

424 SW Bay Blvd. 541-574-0034

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

Forever Funky

Spend a day (at least!) in Nye Beach by Nancy Steinberg Locals and visitors alike love the historic Newport neighborhood of Nye Beach, with its scrumptious restaurants, stunning art galleries, and fascinating shops. Add in the amazing namesake beach, the Newport Performing Arts Center, and an endlessly fun playground at Coast Park, and there’s something in this oceanfront neighborhood for everyone. While you can spend far more than a day exploring Nye Beach, here are some suggestions for some must-do Nye Beach activities.

white frosting – you won’t miss it. They make a variety of crumbly, delicious scones, also big enough to share, most with seasonal fruit. The pasty selection is usually rounded out with muffins, croissants, danish, and other delights, but the exact types vary daily. As for the coffee, I have yet to find a better latte in

Good Morning! Coffee, Pastry, and a Walk

A great way to start your Nye Beach day is by indulging in a steaming latte and mouthwatering pastry at Panini Bakery on Coast Street. Be warned: the bakers here make one batch of their treats each morning, and when they’re gone, they’re gone, so don’t wait too long. A perennial favorite is their cinnamon roll, enormous and packed with cinnamony, sugary, sticky goodness. There might be a little butter in them as well. With this much flavor, there is no need for gooey Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

Newport. You can eat in if you can snag a table, or get your breakfast to go and head to the beach. Beach access is at the Nye Beach Turnaround, under the concrete arch. While the profile of the beach changes frequently, Nye Beach is generally flat and wide, perfect for walking,

When you go: Panini Bakery

232 NW Coast St. 541-265-5033

Dapper Frog

701 NW Beach Dr. 541-265-3764

Nye Beach Wine Cellar 255 NW Coast St. 541-265-3292

Nye Beach Market 526 NW Coast St. 541-574-1599

Jovi

232 NW Coast St. 541-265-8220

find, and his shop is packed with wines at every price point and from every corner of the world. “It’s just as easy to find something inexpensive here to drink alone in a hotel room as it is to find something to mark a very special occasion,” he says. In addition to wines hailing from the Willamette Valley to Argentina to Italy and beyond, he also stocks mouth-watering specialty foods such as cheeses, chocolates, Italian pastas, and mustards. Wahl offers themed wine tastings most weekends. Your stomach may be telling you by now that it’s time for lunch. A great choice is the casual, friendly Nye Beach Market, where you can find soups, sandwiches, burritos, and other lunchtime fare made fresh, often with local ingredients. Sandwiches include hot pastrami, ham and brie, and spicy tuna made with locally canned albacore, all stacked on homemade focaccia bread.

Carl’s Coffee

Café Mundo

NW 2nd Ct. and Coast St. 541-574-8134

Shopping, Lunch at Nye Beach Market, and More Shopping

Whether you’re searching for a vacation souvenir for a friend, a wedding gift, or a little something for yourself, you’re bound to find what you’re looking for in the shops of Nye Beach. The explosion of color that emanates from The Dapper Frog might lure you in just after your beach walk. One of five Dapper Frog locations in Oregon, the shop carries a dizzying array of high-quality art, decorative items, jewelry, ceramics, and more. Goods range from colorful and fun $10 tagua rings to spectacular works of glass art costing thousands of dollars. An animal and nature theme runs throughout the store. Zach Wahl, the owner of the Nye Beach Wine Cellar, is the most knowledgeable and least pretentious wine merchant you can

Afternoon Pick-Me-Up

If your strength is flagging and you’d like a quick treat and a caffeine infusion, head toward the beach once more and stop by Carl’s Coffee. Carl’s serves Stumptown Coffee, an exquisite bean roasted in Portland and familiar across the Pacific Northwest. Carl knows quality when he sees it: he also serves perfect pastries from Newport’s La Maison, a small bistro across town. Other treats include great sandwiches, like the signature Cuban. The primo location allows for quick access to

More to see by the sea For those under twelve, perhaps shopping for wine or sipping coffee isn’t that much fun. As promised, though, there’s something in Nye Beach for everyone, including these two parks nearby to satisfy active kids who want to climb, slide, skate, and spin.

715 NW Beach Dr. 541-265-8665

sand castle building, boogie boarding, kite flying or other sandy activities. At the north end of the beach, perhaps a 15-minute walk from the turnaround, are the remains of Jump-off Joe, a sandstone sea stack that eroded away in the mid-20th century. This spot informally separates Nye Beach from Agate Beach to the north. As you wander the neighborhood, make sure to look up at the light posts. Every summer local artists design unique Nye Beach banners that fly from these posts and declare Nye Beach’s unique and arty character. In the fall they’ll be auctioned off to raise funds for local youth art programs.

wall hangings, Mexican and Balinese silver, fine Polish tableware, vintage Turkish oil jars – all these treasures and more are displayed artfully in every nook and cranny of the store.

Coast Park

Corner of W. Olive St. and Coast St. next to the Performing Arts Center

Custom deli sandwiches can be whipped up for you as well. All their sandwiches can be made on their homemade gluten-free bread for $1 extra, and the creamy clam chowder is also gluten-free. They offer a selection of burritos, including the delicious Johnny Wrap, a vegetarian option with no cheese and homemade salsa. If you want to continue shopping after lunch, head up Coast Street to Jovi, right next door to Panini. This stunning shop is packed with treasures from around the globe, from housewares to perfume to jewelry to art. Store owners Jody George and Veronica Willemin both love to travel – George lives in Mexico for three months of the year – and that travel bug is evident on their shelves. Walking into Jovi is like wandering into an exotic international bazaar. French soaps that smell good enough to nibble, Haitian metal

The highlight of this city playground is an enormous tunnel slide that emerges from a pirate ship’s hull and follows the sand dune at one end of the park down to the ground. There are also things that spin in enough directions to thrill any kid, and climbing equipment galore. A smaller, gentler play area is included for smaller kids, and paved paths wind through the park, perfect for small bikes and scooters. Impromptu performances can be given at the miniature amphitheater area, and you can rest your tired feet at picnic tables and benches scattered throughout the site. There is plenty of parking along Coast St. and in the parking lot of the Newport Performing Arts Center.

Newport Skate Park 656 NW High St.

Skateboarders will love this 6,500 square foot concrete skate park, which encourages high-speed skating with subtle curves and dips. The skate park is adjacent to a playground with great climbing equipment, slides, and picnic tables.

Shop Historic

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Newport Loop Bus runs daily (free to lodging guests) Go to www.co.lincoln.or.us/transit/schedule.html for schedule

For more information about Nye Beach, please visit www.nyebeach.org

Don Davis Park

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OREGON COAST

COUNCIL FOR THE ARTS GO-TO SOURCE FOR ARTS INFO OCCA PROMOTES AND PROVIDES HIGH-CALIBER ARTS EXPERIENCES ON THE OREGON COAST. NEWPORT VISUAL ARTS CENTER 777 NW Beach Dr., Newport 541-265-6540

NEWPORT PERFORMING ARTS CENTER 777 W. Olive St., Newport 541-265-ARTS (2787)

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the beach and the rest of Nye Beach’s sights, or you can just enjoy the gorgeous view from the corner table. Local artists provide the décor, so the interior view is great too.

Dinner and Tunes

An absolute Newport institution for locals and hip visitors alike is Café Mundo, where the food and the live music are equally fantastic and satisfying (and in both cases mostly local). The vibe is casual and funky, inside and out: décor includes individually painted tables, local artists’ works, flowing silky wall hangings, a surfboard or two, Tibetan prayer flags, a furry bicycle, and a terrific climbing tree in the middle of the outdoor seating area. Greg and Laurie Card, Mundo’s energetic and talented owners, literally built the entire restaurant from scratch, with the help of a supportive community who wanted to help the Cards achieve their dream of taking the restaurant from a food cart surrounded by hay bales, open only in the summer, to a year-round eatery, performance venue, and heart of the Nye Beach community. Ingredients are fresh and local, and dishes are creative and absolutely delicious. Perennial favorites include the unique sushi rolls that focus on local ingredients; tacos filled with chicken mole, fish, or tempeh; bento bowls featuring local albacore tuna, teriyaki chicken, or seasonal veggies; and a range of salads (the house-made poppy seed dressing is available by the bottle), wraps, and sandwiches. Music at Mundo includes Open-Mic Night on Thursdays, and often local and regional favorites like the June Rushing Band or Rick Bartow and the Backseat Drivers, with traveling musicians often making appearances as well. Every summer locals mount a Shakespearean production in the outdoor stage and seating area, an event termed Teatro Mundo. Perhaps exhaustion has set in by the end of your Nye Beach day, but you haven’t exhausted its possibilities – leave time to come back again!

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

Seafood, burgers, pasta – freshly prepared in a friendly atmosphere. Biva e On draft mic lve Bar. th t a s t i r i p s d n robrews, wines a 740 W Olive • Newport • across the street from the Performing Arts Center • 541-264-8672

Monday - Thursday: 11am to 8:30pm • Friday & Saturday: 11am to 9:00pm • Sunday: 11am to 7:30pm

LIVE

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

28. Buying fish off the docks 30. Celtic Festival & Highland Games 32. Music 34. The Arts 36. Glass Floats

Photo by Nancy Steinberg

Photo courtesy Newport Celtic Festival & Highland Games

As Fresh as You Can Get Buying fish straight from the fishing boats in Newport by Nancy Steinberg

ne of the major perks of living at or visiting the coast is the easy access to the best seafood in the world. Unless you go out and catch the fish yourself, you can’t get much fresher than buying the fish right from the fishermen that caught it off of their boats tied up at the dock. They hook ‘em, and you cook ‘em, it’s as simple as that. Here’s the what, when, and how of buying fish off the docks in Newport. Salmon, halibut, Dungeness crab, and albacore tuna are the most common types of seafood to be found for sale on the docks, with the occasional lingcod here and there. All of these fish are found seasonally, but you can almost always find something fresh to cook up for dinner. Most sales take place from boats that tie up at Port Docks 5 or 7 on the Bayfront, and some from Port Dock 3 and boats in the South Beach Marina. Look for signs, often hand-lettered, indicating that fish is for sale. For albacore tuna, check the Oregon Albacore Commission’s web site at oregonalbacore.org/the-fleet-is-in/ for a current list of boats with albacore for sale during albacore season (see sidebar). Kaety Jacobson, Marine Extension Agent with Oregon Sea Grant, understands that sometimes people are intimidated by the prospect of wandering the docks to buy seafood. “People don’t know if they’re allowed to go onto the docks, and aren’t sure how to proceed once they’re there. They don’t want to look dumb or get a bad deal,” she said. Take heart. Yes, you absolutely can go down onto the docks where the fishing boats tie up. It’s quite easy to buy fish off the boats, and it’s the best deal around. First, bring two critical things with you: a cooler filled with ice, and cash. Some fishermen will take a local check, but many boats deal with cash transactions only. The cooler, obviously, is to keep your fish cold while in transport – some boats will provide ice and some won’t. By law, the minimum unit that can be sold at the docks is a whole fish. If you only want one tuna loin (a quarter of a fish) or a single salmon fillet, buddy up with someone or be prepared to freeze or otherwise preserve the extra. Most vendors will clean your fish for you for a small fee; Jacobson strongly recommends that consumers take advantage of this service. “Unless you’re really used to filleting your own fish, the extra cost has been shown to be well worth it,” she says. “Studies have Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

shown that most consumers will have lost more in meat than they’d pay to the filleter at the dock if they fillet at home.” The quality of the fish is certain to be absolutely top-notch – customer satisfaction is of prime importance to the fishermen to guarantee repeat local business – but here are some tips to ensure that you’re getting a

To everything there is a season …especially wild seafood. While the 2015 seasons for all species have not yet been pinned down by fisheries managers, here is a rough guide to what you can find for sale on the docks of Newport and when. For more detail, check Oregon Sea Grant’s web site for their annual “What’s Fresh” guide for consumers, published in the spring when seasons are known. Salmon: Pockets of availability in late spring through fall, depending on species and regulations. Halibut: Halibut are harvested during “openers,” brief windows during which harvest is allowed in early through late summer. In addition, an annual quota is imposed on the fishery, and if that cap is reached in an earlier opener, the later ones will be cancelled, so buy your halibut as early as possible. Albacore tuna: Summer through fall, depending on when the fish approach close enough to shore to harvest. Dungeness crab: Crab season is officially Dec. 1 to Aug. 15, but crabs can be kept alive and healthy in tanks long after the season is over so you’re likely to be able to get crab throughout much of the year.

Learn to Shop at the Dock! If you’d like some more guidance and insight into how to buy fish off the docks, Oregon Sea Grant fisheries extension agents want to help. They’ll be offering a series of free tours, called Shop at the Dock, which will show participants how and where to buy fish off the docks, provide an overview of the local fishing industry, and introduce some of the fishermen who land their catch in Newport (and other Oregon ports). Fisheries extension agent Ruby Moon explains, “This is an opportunity for the public to have a guided tour of the dock infrastructure, learn about what seafood products are available, and get tips for buying the freshest, highest quality products around at the best price available. But this is more than just picking your fish; it’s about the experience of meeting the fisherman responsible for bringing you that super-fresh product and hearing his stories about working on the sea. It’s about truly being connected to the food we consume.” Shop at the Dock tours will be given in Newport at noon on the following dates:

Friday, July 10th Thursday, July 16th Wednesday, July 22nd Tuesday, July 28th Contact Ruby Moon for more information at ruby.moon@oregonstate.edu.

great product. Finfish should have clear eyes, and the fish shouldn’t be banged up with gouges or dents. If the fish was frozen at sea, it should have been frozen straight and flat, not bent, as the meat at the “corner” will be bruised. For albacore tuna, look for pink (not brown) gills. Salmon should still be shiny, with no major loss of patches of scales. Tuna will usually be kept in the boat’s fish hold whole, while salmon are often gutted prior to sale. Look for a nice bright pink color to the salmon’s inside pocket (where the guts used to be). To determine the maximum amount of time since your fish was caught, ask the fisherman when the fishing trip started (rather than when the fish was caught, as they often won’t know for sure), and calculate from there. And don’t be afraid to reject a fish in favor of another one of a different size. In fact, since fish is sold by the pound (and by law the price per pound must be posted), it might be easier to decide how much you’d like to spend and have the vendor help pick out a fish to match your budget. Crabs should definitely be alive when they’re purchased and cooked, but vendors sometimes keep the water temperatures in the tanks low to keep the crustaceans sedate, so they won’t necessarily be scampering about when you look into the holding tanks at the docks. They should be moving, however. Crabs with excessive algal growth on their shells should be avoided. Buying fish off the docks constitutes a win-win for the fisherman and consumer. “The fishermen get a higher price from the consumer than they can from a processor, and the consumer gets a lower price than at the grocery store,” Jacobson says. Enjoy your catch of the day! After dinner, if you’d like more information about Newport’s fishing industry and sustainable seafood, check out the fisheries information on Oregon Sea Grant’s web site at seagrant.oregonstate.edu/fisheries-and-seafood.

Kilts to the Hilt

Celebrate Celtic heritage at the Newport Celtic Festival and Highland Games By Nancy Steinberg

hen packing for a June visit to Newport, it’s important to include sturdy shoes, a fleece jacket, your wetsuit and surfboard … and your kilt. If you haven’t worn your kilt in a while, the perfect time to dust it off is for the Newport Celtic Festival and Highland Games, to be held this year June 12-14. This event, now in its fifth year, has grown to be one of the premiere gatherings of Celtic nations in the Pacific Northwest. The weekend-long celebration has something for everyone, from the tall to the small, so make plans to join the fun. Belinda Goody, the festival’s director, has been involved in the event from its inception. She moved to Newport in 2007 with her Scottish husband to open a Scotland-themed bed and breakfast, and was looking to connect with other Celts. “I was looking for Celtic cultural connections and there wasn’t much here at the time. The nearest Highland Games event was in Portland,” she explained. So, she banded together with others who had similar interests and worked with the City of Newport to hold the first ever Celtic festival

Photos courtesy Newport Celtic Festival and Highland Games

here in 2011. An independent non-profit was formed the following year, and they now operate the festival, as well as a few other events during the rest of the year. The festival and games is a gathering of those with roots in one of the seven Celtic nations, territories in Northwest Europe in which that area’s own Celtic languages and cultural traits have survived: Brittany, Cornwall, Galicia, Ireland, Isle of Man, Scotland, and Wales. Goody says the event, like other Celtic festivals around the world, is an opportunity for those with Celtic heritage to get together, celebrate, and share their culture with the world via music, dance, food, and arts. She likens the event to a Native American powwow. Not all Celtic festivals have Highland Games, and not all Highland Games have a Celtic festival attached to them, so Newport’s event is a bit special. Designed to showcase strength and endurance, Highland Games include events like the caber toss (that’s the one in which competitors up-end the giant telephone pole), sheaf toss, and stone put, similar to today’s track and field shot put.

Participants in all events wear kilts, of course. The Newport games were recently accepted into the Pacific Northwest Scottish Games League, and are the games are also certified by the national Association of Scottish Games and Athletics. Newport’s Highland Games attracts about 50 athletes from the region and the country, and the event welcomes novices. The festival will begin Friday, June 12 at 2 pm with the Kilted Kilometer, a beach run that is part of the Highland Games (1K and 5K options will be available this year). Called “Running for Shelter,” this fun run along Nye Beach benefits the Lincoln County Animal Shelter. Kilts are an integral part of this event, so bring yours or borrow one! The run is followed by a sand castle-building competition at 3:30 on Nye Beach. Want to learn a little Celtic dancing? Friday at 6 pm is the Community Ceili Dance at Sam Case School (459 NE 12th St., $5 for adults, $3 for kids 7-17) with a professional ceili caller. Then don’t miss the free and popular Gathering of the Clans at 9 pm at Nye Beach, when local bagpipers will “pipe down the sun” as it sets over the Pacific.

The festival and games on Saturday and Sunday will be at the Lincoln County Fairgrounds (633 NE 3rd St., $12 for adults; see web site for additional pricing information), and you won’t want to miss a moment. In addition to Highland Games competitions throughout both days, you can wander among three stages of entertainment, including every form of Celtic music and dancing. The seven nations will be represented at booths providing educational and genealogical information, and food and craft vendors will be there in abundance. For the kids, there is Sprog’s Corner (free), where there will be arts and crafts, sword-fighting demonstrations, and mini versions of the Highland Games to try (the sheep toss, a kids’ version of the sheaf toss, is particularly popular. Don’t worry: the sheep aren’t real). Another popular event at the festival is the sheep-herding demonstrations. You will never look at your lazy dog the same way again after you see these incredibly welltrained border collies do their job. Women are invited to try their hand at the Welsh SkilletToss, and the men can enter the Bonny Knees competition. If you’ve got a hankering for haggis, don’t forget to enter the haggis-eating competition. The winner could make a trip to the Superbowl of haggis-eating competitions in Bethlehem, PA. The Celtic Heritage Alliance, which produces the annual festival and games, also sponsors other events during the rest of the year, including the Burns Supper,

a celebration of Scotland’s greatest poet, in January; occasional Ceili dances; and a Shamrock Supper to celebrate Saint Patrick’s Day. Despite the prodigious amount of work that goes into the event every year and the number of volunteer hours required, for Goody it is a

labor of love. “Connections to culture can be made through so many mediums, like food, music, and language,” she explained. “It’s all about realizing we’re all connected.” For more information, see the festival’s web site at ncfhg.com.

These Joints are Jumping Where to hear live music in Newport By Nancy Steinberg After a long day of surfing, sand castle-building, ogling fish at the Oregon Coast Aquarium, blowing a glass float, touring a lighthouse, and shopping on the Bayfront, you’re probably ready for some live music, right? There are lots of places in Newport to tap your toes and hum along – here are the best live music venues in town, ranging from pubs to resorts.

Café Mundo

Every night is live music night at Café Mundo, in the heart of Nye Beach. This funky hangout has amazing food and a casual atmosphere, both inside, where the music plays, and outside in the courtyard, where kids can climb a tree or play on the outdoor stage while waiting for their meals. While eating your chicken mole tacos, creative sushi rolls, Greek veggie pita, or tataki tuna bento bowl (don’t skip the berry crisp for dessert!), you can hear a range of local and regional bands playing blues, folk, Andean flutes, and more. Newport feels very lucky to be the home of renowned artist and musician Rick Bartow – don’t miss Rick Bartow and the Backseat Drivers at Mundo. Corner of NW 2nd Court and Coast Street www.cafemundo.us

Nana’s Irish Pub

Nana’s is another Nye Beach favorite, for its hearty and fresh comfort food, beers and ales on tap, excellent happy hour deals (Mon.-Fri. 3-6 pm), and live music most weekends. Dinner doesn’t get much better than a plate of crispy fish and chips or chicken pot pie and a Guinness at Nana’s. The bands that regularly rock the house here include June & Joren Rushing, playing blues, rock, and funky folk; Sons of the Beaches, blues and rock with a beach flavor; and Wild Hog in the Woods, oldtimey string music. 613 NW 3rd St. www.nanasirishpub.com

man band whose repertoire runs from jazz to rock to blues to pop. On other weekends (check local calendars), patrons are treated to the John Bringetto Jazz Duo, two fabulous local musicians who run through jazz standards as well as original numbers. A little jazz and the Waterfront Grille’s North Jetty Nachos and you have yourself a perfect evening. 1000 SE Bay Blvd www.embarcaderoresort.com

Bay Haven Inn

Looking for local color? You can’t do better than the friendly Bay Haven, a rustic hangout if ever there was one. The Bay Haven is over 100 years old, and for all of that time, it’s been serving pub grub and cold beers to the fishing community and anyone else who walks in its doors. It might look familiar to you if you’ve seen the movie “Sometimes a Great Notion,” in which it stood in for The Snag. The prices are absolutely right at this awesome spot, and the music is a total blast. Rock and blues are frequently on the menu here, often with local favorites Bucket List and Guilty Tendencies. Every Sunday (3-6 pm) is the Sunday Jam, where local musicians of all stripes come out of the woodwork. Come join them! 608 SW Bay Blvd Find the Bay Haven on Facebook

Uptown Pub

The Uptown is another friendly local bar, the motto of which is “It’s all downhill from here.” How can you get better than Taco Tuesdays when tacos are just 50 cents? Here’s how: add in a rock and blues jam hosted by Argosy (7-10 pm). You’re welcome. Check local calendars for other food specials and visiting rock and blues bands. 636 SW Hurbert St. Find the Uptown Pub on Facebook

Club 1216, Canyon Way Restaurant

Canyon Way is Newport stalwart, an independent bookstore, gift shop, and outstanding restaurant all rolled into one old building filled with character, and characters. Club 1216 is a tiny café within the restaurant, open for dining and music on most Friday nights 6-8 pm. The music tends towards small ensembles (there’s not room for much more!) playing folk, bluegrass, and old standards. Regular performers include local wonder-woman Barb Turrill (vocals and many string instruments) and some of her rotating musical collaborators, Rob Connell and Evans Longshore playing old time rock & roll, the Lucky Gap String Band (bass, guitar, banjo, fiddle, and mandolin), and Malarkey Stiles, an acoustic duo with angelic harmonies. This is a great spot for a light bite, glass of wine, and beautiful music in an intimate setting. 1216 SW Canyon Way Canyonway.com/club

Embarcadero Resort

The Embarcadero’s Waterfront Grille Restaurant and Lounge is a great place to watch the sun go down over Yaquina Bay as the boats, gulls, and sea lions come and go in the waning light. The dinner selections of steaks, pastas, chicken, and seafood will satisfy everyone in your group, and on Fridays and Saturdays, live music accompanies dinner. Most often the Waterfront Grille hosts the Bret Lucich Show, a oneBelle Vie

Even More Live Music If your musical tastes run more to classical and jazz rather than rock and folk, there’s live music for you, too, at the Newport Performing Arts Center. The Newport Symphony performs four to six concerts per year, under the baton of conductor Adam Flatt. The Oregon Coast Jazz Party brings nationallyknown jazz artists to town in early October. Be sure to check coastarts.org for the latest listings of live entertainment.

Newport Symphony Orchestra www.newportsymphony.org

Oregon Coast Jazz Party

www.coastarts.org/event-types/oregon-coast-jazz-party/

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You Gotta Have Art

From performance to paintings, the arts are alive and well in Newport By Nancy Steinberg

symphony of crashing waves and sea lion calls, a foggy watercolor morning at the beach, the wind-carved sculptures of cliffs and dunes – the masterpieces of the coast’s great outdoors serve as constant muses for artists of all kinds in this small coastal town. The performing and visual arts are critical threads in the fabric of Newport life, and both thrive in two fantastic municipal venues, as well as in galleries, studios, and performance spaces all over the city. “The arts are a critical part of life in Newport, from jazz concerts at the Newport Performing Arts Center to photography exhibits at the Visual Arts Center, to the offerings of our many galleries and small music venues,” says Catherine Rickbone, Executive Director of the Oregon Coast Council on the Arts, headquartered in Newport. “Locals and visitors alike find that entertainment and creative outlets abound here.” The PAC and VAC are municipal facilities that provide a range of performing and visual arts offerings, respectively.

Newport Performing Arts Center

The Newport Performing Arts Center (PAC) is the premiere performance venue on the Oregon coast, housing the 400-seat Silverman Theater and the 80-seat Studio Theater. It is home to a group of resident companies that produce community music, theatre, and

Photos courtesy Newport Performing Arts Center

dance performances, keeping the building buzzing year-round. It also serves touring artists, non-profits, for profits, and individuals as space permits. On stage at the PAC you can take in Newport Symphony Orchestra performances, the hot combos at the Oregon Coast Jazz Party, offerings from our three community theater companies or three dance studios, and more. The PAC is also home to the Met Opera Live simulcasts in high definition (HD), National Theatre London Live in HD, Broadway plays in HD, Great Art on Screen and a film series.

Upcoming events include: • • • •

May 8-9, 7 p.m. and May 10, 2 p.m.: “Kidstuff,” A Mother’s Day Celebration (annual T.J. Hoofers benefit, featuring Dance! And All That Jazz! dancers) May 15-16, 7 p.m. and May 17, 2 p.m.: Newport School of Dance Recital 2015, presented by Oregon Coast Ballet Company May 22, 23, 29, 30, 7 p.m. and May 25 and 31, 2 p.m.: Pacific Dance Ensemble: “The Jungle Book” June 19, 7 p.m.: National Theatre Live from London –

• • • • • • • • • •

“Skylight” June 26, 7 p.m.: National Theatre Live from London – “Behind the Beautiful Forevers” July 3, 7:30 p.m.: 3 Leg Torso with Newport Symphony Orchestra July 5, 2 p.m.: Newport Symphony Orchestra Goes to the Movies: The Sequel, with special guest Edmund Stone Aug. 7, 7 p.m.: National Theatre Live from London – “A View from the Bridge” Aug. 14, 7 p.m.: National Theatre Live from London – “The Hard Problem” Aug. 21, 7 p.m.: National Theatre Live from London – “Man & Superman” Aug. 28, 7 p.m.: National Theatre Live from London – “Everyman” July 20-31 – OCCA Summer Theatre Camp August 3-14 – OCCA Shakespeare Camp Oct. 2-4 - 12th annual Oregon Coast Jazz Party 2015

For more information about all of these events and more, and to purchase tickets, go to www.coastarts.org or call 541-265-2787.

Newport Visual Arts Center

The Newport Visual Arts Center at the Nye Beach Turnaround is a feast for the eyes whether you are perusing an exhibit or looking out the windows at its breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean. The VAC is home to three galleries: the Runyan on the main floor, the Coastal Oregon Visual Artists Showcase (COVAS) with Video Archive on the second, and the Upstairs Gallery on third. No matter what level you enter the building, a variety of artistic visions await you. Exhibits feature local, regional and national artists. Friendly docents will answer your questions, and admission is free. There is always something special happening in this bright yellow building. Monthly Artist Receptions to welcome new exhibits take place on the first Friday of each month from 5 to 7 pm. Classes are available five days a week through the Yaquina Art Association. Drop in for free classes in watercolor, oil, acrylic, hand building with clay, china painting, colored pencil or pastel. Classes for children are given periodically as well – check with the VAC for a schedule. Make sure to check the web site, coastarts.org, for a more complete calendar of events. The Runyan Gallery is open 11 am - 5 pm Tuesday through Sunday (October – March). The COVAS and Upstairs galleries are open

noon - 4 pm, Tuesday through Saturday. Upcoming events include: May 16, 7 p.m.: Nye Beach Writers Series: Trevor Dodge June 20, 7 p.m.: Nye Beach Writers Series: Matt Love, Andrew Rodman June 5-July 31, 2015: “Surf & Turf: The Art of Boarding,” Runyan Gallery

Making the Rounds

Blow your own glass float for a unique souvenir of the coast By Nancy Steinberg

f you’re very, very lucky, you could find a genuine glass fishing float washed up on a Newport beach. These glass globes, in sizes from baseball to basketball, were (and sometimes still are) used by Japanese fishermen to float their fishing nets far across the Pacific. After traveling the ocean for years in circular currents, they are deposited on our shore every so often, particularly after winter storms. Glass floats in shades of blue, green, and purple are among the most treasured beachcombing finds. In homage to these unique and beautiful pieces of flotsam, a number of artists in Lincoln County blow modern glass floats in a rainbow of colors; you can find them for sale at local shops and galleries. But why not take home an even more special souvenir: a glass float that you’ve blown yourself at The Edge art gallery in South Beach? The Edge offers 30-minute classes with a staff artist, in which participants can make a glass float, paperweight, starfish, or “stuffed” glass float containing sand, sea shells, pennies, or any other small memento you’d like to preserve. Everyone, age 8 and up, is welcome to sign up and give this art form a try. On a lovely spring day my ten-year-old son and I decided to give it a whirl, opting for the basic glass float class. Amanda Williams, our instructor and guide for the class, is an expert glass blower with a great sense of humor. She walked us through the entire process with clear instructions and a keen eye for safety. First we chose our colors from a dazzling palette. I chose cobalt blue, sea green, and light pink. My son quickly chose blue and orange, and was having a hard time deciding on a third, so Amanda steered him toward a sparkly gold – perfect. We donned safety goggles and entered the glass workshop. For much of our class we worked in front of an audience: the workshop is separated from the gallery by a large window, and a few chairs are set up for spectators on the gallery side. Amanda said it took some getting used to when she started at The Edge, but now she just carries on. Amanda worked with us one at a time. She first took a scoop of molten glass from a 2100-degree furnace onto the end of a metal tube, and had us roll the glob on a metal table. “Keep turning it, keep turning it!” she encouraged. After reheating the glob, we rolled it in the tiny, colorful glass shards that would impart the swirls of color to our floats. To begin to turn the glob into a globe, Amanda blew a small bubble of air into the glass through the

long tube. Then followed multiple steps of heating the small globe to keep it molten in the 2350-degree furnace known as the “glory hole,” another small puff of air from Amanda to enlarge the globe, and then the color swirling step, my favorite. We used a pair of metal shears to poke and twist the taffy-like glob of glass in order to mix and swirl the colors. A coat of clear glass was added over the colored layer, and the budding float was heated in the furnace again. Finally, we get to the blowing stage, which is done via a long flexible hose attached to the end of the metal pipe. “I can fix every mistake but one,” Amanda had warned us. “Do not blow too hard!” We blew gently, then a little harder, at her instruction, and something that actually started to look like a sphere took shape. Amanda helped us shape the float using a series of two round molds, and she shaped the final globe using a metal ring. Amanda showed us how to remove the glass float from the end of the pipe using a tool that looks like something your great-grandmother might have spanked her children with. I wanted my float to hang, so Amanda added a graceful loop of glass to it. My son wanted his to sit on a shelf, so she added a dollop of molten glass to his, into which he pressed a unique stamp of the Yaquina Bay bridge, which would make a flat spot for the float to sit on. The floats are then placed in a 935o oven to “cool.” We picked them up the next day. We loved the results! The colors are beautiful, and the finished product is much more durable than you’d expect for a glass globe (Amanda dropped mine on the counter to prove how tough it is). We immediately began planning our next glass creation adventure. While you’re there, be sure to peruse the gallery itself. The Edge Art Gallery is filled with incredible glass creations and other art forms – metal, leather, paintings, and more – made by dozens of local artists. The artists at The Edge also create custom pieces, such as sink basins and lamp covers.

When You Go: The Edge Art Gallery

3916 S. Coast Hwy ½ mile south of the Yaquina Bay Bridge 541 867 4198 www.theedgeartgallery.com

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LEARN

Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

40.

HMSC

44.

Aquarium

46.

Shipwrecks

48.

Marine Discovery Tours

50.

North, South, East, West Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

Photo courtesy Newport Aquarium

Mysteries of the Deep Revealed at the Hatfield Marine Science Center by Nancy Steinberg

ver watch an octopus devour a live crab? Want to try your hand at generating electricity with a wave? Have questions about invasive species, underwater earthquakes, deep-sea hydrothermal vents, or local fish species? You can do all this and more at the Visitor Center of the Mark O. Hatfield Marine Science Center in South Beach. HMSC is a facility of Oregon State University, but its campus is home to scientists from a wide variety of institutions, including OSU, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, and others. All told, approximately 300 scientists, educators, and support staff work at the center, conducting research, outreach, and education programs focused on our watery world. The topics studied there are as diverse as the inhabitants of the sea themselves: salmon genetics, the environmental impacts of wave energy, whale migration patterns, eruptions at undersea volcanoes, effects of ocean acidification on fish, and much more. “Our greatest strength is our focus on collaborative research,” explained HMSC Program Manager Maryann Bozza. “Because scientists from many different organizations are co-located here, there is a lot of interaction that might not happen if they were working at separate facilities.” For example, OSU Assistant Professor Jessica Miller and NOAA Fisheries Scientist Tom Hurst have collaborated on a string of projects focused on the effects of ocean acidification on young fishes. In another building, scientists analyze genetic samples taken from salmon caught by fishermen as part of ProjectCROOS (Collaborative Research on Oregon Ocean Salmon). “It’s inspiring to see ideas, data and equipment shared across disciplines and between agency and university programs. Through professional activities such as weekly seminars and even lunchtime soccer or Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

dog-walking, scientists here keep the lines of communication wide open,” Bozza said. Some of the most high-profile, cutting edge marine science in the world is carried out at Hatfield and by Hatfield-associated researchers. When an enormous dock ripped from its moorings by the March 2011 Japanese tsunami landed on a Newport beach in June 2012, Hatfield scientists Jessica Miller and John Chapman were the ones who took the lead on examining the potentially invasive species on the dock. A piece of that dock now stands as a sentinel and reminder outside the front door of the Visitor Center. Marine Mammal Institute Associate Director Scott Baker has made headlines with his genetics work demonstrating that endangered whale meat was being served in sushi restaurants in Seoul and Los Angeles. His pioneering work was featured in the ecothriller/documentary “The Cove,” released to great acclaim in 2009. Some of the center’s research is carried out on its two research vessels, which can occasionally be seen at the OSU Ship Operations dock nearby: the 54-foot Elakha (“Sea Otter” in the Chinook language), which stays relatively close to shore, and the oceangoing, 177-foot R/V Oceanus. The Oceanus is getting long in the tooth, for a research vessel, and is slated to be replaced within the next ten years. Hatfield scientists don’t just ship out from Newport – they work all over the world, embarking from ports in the Gulf of Mexico, Antarctica, the South Pacific, the Bering Sea, and beyond. The best way to learn about what goes on at HMSC is by checking out the Visitor Center, where most of the exhibits are related to HMSC faculty research. One particularly hot topic is wave energy – how to extract it and what the environmental impacts of wave energy devices in the ocean might be. The wave energy exhibit at the Visitor Center covers these topics with hands-on activities.

Another exhibit covers the threat of invasive species, a very real problem for the local coastal ecosystems. The VC also features touch tanks where visitors can be embraced by a sea anemone or stroke a tide pool fish. And of course, there’s the octopus, the mascot of the center that greets visitors as they enter. Check the schedule for her feeding times – it’s quite a show. HMSC doesn’t like to let any data escape, and so even the Visitor Center is a laboratory. Here a team of researchers focused on “freechoice learning,” education that takes place outside of a formal classroom setting and under the student’s own initiative, studies the behaviors and interactions of visitors with the exhibits and with each other. Cameras and other high-tech equipment installed throughout the center aid in those studies, and a cadre of researchers works behind the scenes to learn how we learn. The Visitor Center (2030 SE Marine Science Drive) is open 10 am to 4 pm Thursdays through Mondays from Labor Day until Memorial Day weekend. The center is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Admission is by donation ($5 per person/$20 per family is suggested).

Happy Birthday, HMSC! This year marks the Hatfield Marine Science Center’s 50th anniversary, and the center is celebrating its half-century of cutting-edge science and education in style. While the center celebrates its past, it is also looking to the very bright future: a significant expansion of the facility will be undertaken in the next five years, for which new a brandnew building will be consructed on-site to provide new classroom, laboratory, and meeting space. Up, up, and away! To learn more about HMSC’s history and anniversary, and to keep track of the many public events and celebrations connected with the birthday, see hmsc.oregonstate. edu. There you will find information about the public celebration of HMSC in the fall, as well as historic photos and information about the expansion.

“IT’S KIND OF

Chinook Winds Casino Resort Presents... the 39th annual Newport Seafood & Wine Festival. February 25-28, 2016 Photo by: Jo Wienert

www.seafoodandwine.com

F A BIG DEALâ&#x20AC;?

The event may not be until February, but you can still join us at any one of the events listed below throughout the year. JUNE

JULY

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

Newport Marathon

Fireworks over Yaquina Bay

Lincoln County Fair

Newport Half Marathon

Celtic Festival and Highland Games

The Amazing Race Barrel to Keg Relay

Great Albacore Tuna BBQ Challenge

The Gathering-Annual Longboard Classic

OCTOBER

NOVEMBER

DECEMBER

Oregon Coast Jazz Party

Oyster Cloyster

Sea of Lights

Toledo Wooden Boat Show

Lighted Boat Parade

The Oregon Coast Aquarium Up close and personal with local sea life

o visit to Newport is complete without a stop at the Oregon Coast Aquarium overlooking scenic Yaquina Bay just south of the city’s iconic bridge. The Aquarium strives to be a center of excellence for ocean literacy and fun, and plays an active role in conservation, education and animal rehabilitation efforts. The aquarium’s world-class indoor and outdoor exhibits have earned the facility consistent recognition as one of the top ten aquariums in the country. Guests will discover the mysterious world of underwater archaeology when the new exhibit, “Secrets of Shipwrecks: Part History. Part Mystery.” opens on Memorial Day weekend (see p. XX). A wander through 1.32-million gallons of seawater in Passages of the Deep immerses visitors into the world of local marine life

Photos Courtesy: Oregon Coast Aquarium

– including over 100 sharks. The series of tunnels feature 360 degree views of three different kinds of landscapes an underwater explorer might find off the Oregon Coast. For fans of fuzz, the Aquarium’s sea otters’ and their playful antics provide endless entertainment. Keep an eye out for pups Nuka and Oswald, the most recent additions to this all-male raft of rescued otters from California and Alaska coasts. Guests can view their training progress during daily public feedings at 10:30 a.m., 1:00 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. Meet the Aquarium’s seals and sea lions through the submerged and above water viewing windows that let visitors peer into their world. Daily feeding presentations at 11:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. are a favorite of guests who delight in viewing the

California sea lions’ athleticism at work. For an unforgettable behind the scenes experience, book a whiskery kiss delivered by one of the Aquarium’s seals or sea lions! The Aquarium also boasts the largest walk-through outdoor seabird aviary in the United States. Tufted and horned puffins, common murres, rhinoceros auklets, pigeon guillemots and black oystercatchers all call the craggy cliffs and clear water home. Daily feedings at 2:30 p.m. delight visitors of all ages as each bird larks about to eat the fishes of their choice. In addition to the Seabird Aviary, the Aquarium is also home to two turkey vultures. Guests are often surprised by the size of the brother and sister pair, Ichabod and Olive, who busy themselves with toys and other enrichment items, and sometimes leave their exhibit to meet

visitors on a keeper’s glove. A nearby underwater cave is inhabited by a Giant Pacific Octopus. Viewers sometimes need to stretch their powers of observation to spot the creature, which can camouflage with its environment and squeeze its soft body into dark crags. Researchers now believe that octopuses are as smart as house cats, capable of navigating mazes, using simple tools and recognizing individuals. Guests may schedule an octopus encounter to feed and shake suckers with one of these intelligent, seemingly alien animals. The Oregon Coast Aquarium opened its doors in 1992 to inspire the public to better understand, cherish and conserve marine and coastal ecosystems. Built on an abandoned industrial site, the Aquarium did a lot of work to transform the grounds into an expansive naturescape for guests to explore. The north end of the property is dedicated to a nature trail that skirts an estuary – a unique feature for an aquarium. This wild exhibit features over one hundred native plant species, many of them labeled to continue the Aquarium’s education program for guests. The Aquarium is open from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. during the summer travel season and 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in the winter months. To check for discounts, purchase tickets and learn more, visit www. aquarium.org. Oregon Coast Aquarium is located at 2820 SE Ferry Slip Road, Newport. For more information, call (541) 867-3474.

Secrets of Shipwrecks: Part History. Part Mystery. at the Oregon Coast Aquarium

hipwreck explorers are called underwater archaeologists, and for good reason. Part astronaut, part archaeologist, and part marine biologist, these scientists work at submerged research sites devoid of breathable air, often under intense water pressure, and utterly inhospitable to humans. These investigators must rely on cutting edge science and technology to excavate the forgotten ruins of shipwrecks to uncover clues to an earlier way of life. You can discover this world for yourself when the Oregon Coast Aquarium’s new exhibit, SECRETS OF SHIPWRECKS: Part History, Part Mystery, opens this Memorial Day weekend. SECRETS OF SHIPWRECKS is a historic, hands-on exhibit that captures the spirit of archaeological adventure. Visitors can play Indiana Jones for the day, embarking on a quest to learn about the past, understand the present, and glimpse the future. This four-gallery underwater wonderland will take you on a journey through representations of the artificial reefs that shipwrecks create around the world. Replicas of real artifacts

Photos Courtesy: Oregon Coast Aquarium

discovered in historic shipwrecks from the Red Sea to the Caribbean will tumble seamlessly from mural to exhibit to gallery floor. In this immersive aquarium experience, you can meet a giant green moray eel that stretches to over six feet long and smile surrounded by a crawl-through tank of toothy, color-changing barracudas. Live tropical coral reefs will abound with jackknife and butterfly fishes, and you can peer into the rarely interpreted fresh water world of shipwrecks in the Great Lakes. You will be able to explore the science and technology that people use to bring the mysteries hiding in the underwater world to light through interactive displays for visitors of all ages. The mission of the Aquarium is to inspire the public to “better understand, cherish and conserve marine and coastal ecosystems.” Through SECRETS OF SHIPWRECKS, guests of all ages can discover the mysterious world of underwater archaeology. Dive in!

Just So Yaquina B uth of ay B next to th ridge, Oregon C e oa Aquarium st

For a & Unique endly Fri Family pping Sho nce!! Experie

t Do s u M

Something for everyone. Pirate’s Plunder, an indoor bounce house, gifts, food, antiques, collectibles, yarn shop, rock shop, leather, pottery, swords & daggers, and so much more!

(541) 867-6531 3101 SE Ferry Slip Rd. • South Beach (Next to the Oregon Coast Aquarium)

Pirate’s Plunder “An Antique & Collectibles Mall”

D i s co v

u o er Y

Award of Excellence Three Years Running!

Open Daily at 10 am! Filled to the Gunnels With Treasures! 541-867-6000 3145 Ferry Slip Road Located next to the Oregon Coast Aquarium

The Fun, Friendly Place to Shop!

RELAX

Earthbound Beauty Day Spa In Historic Nye Beach • 613 NW 3rd St Newport, OR 541-265-4232 • www.earthboundbeauty.com

w e r N Wild

Caught

Sustainable Seafood Grilled Specialties • Fish-N-Chips Sandwiches • Salads • Chowder Open Every Day 11am - 9pm

“Best clam chowder had in Newport, maybe anywhere!” Joe - Meridian, ID “We came for another, stopped here instead. More character and less pretension.” Danielle - Portland, OR “Wow wow wow! I have managed restaurants on Kauai for years. I have never had fish as fresh and well cooked as this. Mahalo nui loa!!” Dave - Waimea, HI • Beer/Wine, Happy Hour, Cocktail, To Go and Kids Menus • Always Pet Friendly • Private Party Room • Custom Smoking • Heated Patio • Catering

808 SW Bay Blvd on Newport’s Historic Bay Front

o ce a n b l e u s e a fo o d s. co m 541-265-2424

Marine Discovery Tours

Up close and personal with whales, sea lions, crabs, and more By Fran Mathews, Marine Discovery Tours

ne of the greatest adventures visitors can have in Newport is a trip aboard the 65-foot Discovery, the tour boat operated by Marine Discovery Tours. This award-winning family-owned business was started in 1992 by a West Coast fisherman, captain Don Mathews, and his wife, Fran, a marine journalist. The Mathewses and their fun team of naturalists love sharing their “back yard” – Yaquina Bay and River and the nearshore Pacific – and its abundant resident sea life. Their team’s mission statement says it all: “Deliver great activities and information that lead to connections with the aquatic world. Have fun. Repeat the process!” Every year they welcome aboard 7,000 students on field trips, motor coach groups from across North America, and families from local to international. Berthed conveniently on the Bayfront, the Discovery is the largest passenger vessel on the coast. It is loaded with comfortable seating for all in a heated cabin, the latest in safety equipment, computer monitors to watch the radar and GPS, and always, great coffee, Rogue Ales, and Oregon wines. The cruise route is determined daily by the captain – if the ocean is calm and safe, the Discovery heads out to sea. If the conditions are rough, the captain will take you only to the edge of the jetties at the mouth of the bay, then calmly cruise through 4,000 acres of salt water bay and freshwater river systems where there are plenty of sights to see, from sea lions to oyster farms. Photos Courtesy: Marine Discovery Tours

Expeditions often find gray whales, seals, sea lions, porpoises, and sea birds while enjoying the beauty of the rugged Oregon coastline. From time to time more exotic animals are spotted, including orcas and sharks. Guests are always entertained with stories about the historic coastal community from the early lighthouse keepers to modern day fishermen with satellite-driven navigation systems. Endorsed by the Oregon Coast Aquarium as a “Floating Adventure,” hands-on activities onboard include pulling up authentic West Coast crab pots from sparkling Bay waters filled with Dungeness crab – Oregon’s official State Crustacean. Passengers help tow plankton nets to see the microscopic critters at the base of all ocean food chains. Yep – your favorite seafood is courtesy of these mighty microscopic wonders. Need some new shots for your Facebook album? Navigation lessons are a favorite feature with the captain – picture your kids driving the boat … really! Special event cruises are available for brunches, dinner parties, family reunions, weddings, and the scattering of ashes at sea. Make reservations for a unique must-do Newport experience that’s available from March through October. For more information about Marine Discovery Tours, go to www. marinediscovery.com.

Tranquility on Yaquina Bay

With a launch ramp, laundry rooms, bathrooms. showers, WiFi, Fish Cleaning Tables, Fuel Dock, Restaurant, Public Fishing Pier, Brewery, and Marina Store

Beautifully Landscaped Bay Front Park 144 Full Hookup Sites With: Water, Sewer, 30+50 amp power, Cable TV, Sites include HUGE Big Rig Pull-thru sites. Laundry Rooms, Bathrooms, Free Showers, Free WiFi, Dump Stations, Activity/Club Room For Groups, Restaurant, and Marina Store

MarineDiscoveryTours.com Book reservations online: www.portofnewport.com â&#x20AC;˘ (541) 867 3321

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The sun will paint the sky a romantic orange, and your ticket is your key card. Relax, enjoy the show.

elizabethstreetinn.com 877.265.9400

Get Out of Town!

Adventures to the north, south, and east of Newport By Nancy Steinberg

ere at Travel Newport, we just love Newport. We don’t know why anyone would live or vacation anywhere else. But we do acknowledge that Newport doesn’t exist in a vacuum. It is part of a vibrant central coast community where there’s lots to do and see within a relatively small radius. Come visit us, but check out our stunning neighbors too! Here are some ideas for extending the radius of your trip here.

Whether you want to play golf on a world-class course (Salishan Resort), take a cooking class at the Lincoln City Culinary Center, or see a movie at the lovely old Bijou Theater, you’ll find never-ending fun.

Seal Rock Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

South

Seal Rock State Park, only 10 miles south of Newport, is absolutely stunning. The offshore rocks provide habitat for flocks of birds, and harbor seals often haul out there as well. At low tide, these are some of the best and most accessible tide pools around. Yachats is a funky, beautiful small town about 24 miles south of Newport where you can do some of the best winter storm-watching on the coast. One of the prime spots for storm-watching is the Adobe Resort, a full-service resort for the whole family. In addition to watching the crashing surf from your window, you can stay warm, if

Depoe Bay Photo by Rick Beasley

North

Depoe Bay, 12 miles north of Newport, is an adorable little town deemed the Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon coast. Here you can board whale watching boats and fishing charters from the world’s smallest harbor, or even watch whales from the shore. Whale information abounds: Oregon State Parks operates a whale watching center across the street from the Whale, Sealife, and Shark Museum operated by marine biologist Carrie Newell. You can find food from salt water taffy to fresh, local seafood as well as souvenirs galore along the main drag. More fun awaits in Lincoln City, about 25 miles north of Newport.

Seal Rock Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

When You Go Depoe Bay Depoe Bay Whale Center

541-765-3304 www.oregonstateparks.org

Whale, Sealife, and Shark Museum

541-912-6734 oregonwhales.com/Museum/museum.html

Lincoln City Salishan Spa & Golf Resort 1-800-452-2300 www.salishan.com

Lincoln City Culinary Center

541-557-1125 www.oregoncoast.org/culinary/

Bijou Theater

541-994-8255 www.cinemalovers.com

Seal Rock Toledo Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

not dry, in the indoor heated pool and spa, use the fitness and game rooms, and enjoy a meal at the Adobe’s award-winning restaurant. You can also walk to the quaint Yachats downtown area, lined with unique gift shops and awesome restaurants.

East

Just east of Newport is Toledo, an arts mecca and mill town rolled into one. Renowned painter Michael Gibbons maintains his studio and gallery here, along with artists Sam Briseño, Ivan Kelly, Doug Haga, Becky Miller, and others. Don’t miss Pig Feathers Barbecue and the Twisted Snout Brewery at the end of Main Street. If you’re feeling really ambitious, you can bike (or, truth be told, drive) from the Bayfront in Newport all the way to Toledo along gorgeous Yaquina Bay. If you bike, you’ll really earn your barbecue and beer!

West?

It’s a little harder to visit our neighbors to the west, the closest of which is, well, Japan. But you can always get a new perspective on Newport if you view it from the rolling ocean by signing up for a Marine Discovery Tours cruise or going out on a fishing charter.

Seal Rock State Park

541-867-7451 www.oregonstateparks.org

Yachats Adobe Resort

541-547-3141 www.adoberesort.com

Toledo Gallery Michael Gibbons 541-336-2797 www.michaelgibbons.net

Gallery Briseño

541-336-1315 https://www.facebook.com/GalleryBriseno

Ivan Kelly Fine Art Studio 541-336-1124 www.ivankelly.com

Pig Feathers Barbecue West

541-336-1833 pigfeathersbbq.com

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

PLAY

Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

Photo by: Jim Burke

54. Sailing 56. Golfing 60. Diving 62. Camping Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

OREGON OYSTER FARMS

We ship oysters WorldWid e... just ask!

Premium oysters since 1907. Visit our Retail Store, located six miles up the Yaquina Bay Road from Newport, Oregon, for the freshest, year round selection of oysters.

We’re easy to find: 6 miles east of Embarcadero on Yaquina Bay Road

We feature the following fresh items: • Oysters in the Shell • Smoked Oysters • Oyster Meat • Steamer Clams • Oyster Cocktails • Gift Certificates! 6 8 7 8 Ya q u i n a B a y R o a d • P. O . B o x 1 4 7 5 Newport, Oregon 97365 (541) 265-5078 • fax (541) 265-2401 e-mail: oregonoyster@actionnet.net visit us on the web at: http://www.oregonoyster.com

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We Like the Cut of Your Jib! The Yaquina Bay Yacht Club welcomes sailors for races and more By Nancy Steinberg

hoy there! Newport welcomes sailors of all stripes to join the locals in learning to sail or using their skills in the regular regattas and small races the locals organize via the Yaquina Bay Yacht Club. There’s no better way to enjoy the watery world of Newport than by getting out onto the bay or ocean in a sailboat, so come sail with us! The first thing sailors in Yaquina Bay need to know is that the bay is much smaller than it looks: at low tide, much of it is mudflats, so be sure to check the tides before you sail, and especially at ebb or low, stick to the wellmarked channel. “You can be left high and dry if you don’t know the bay,” warns Laurie Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

Weitkamp, an experienced local sailor. “But if you stay in the channel you can sail all the way upriver to Toledo.” And what a sail it is. There’s nothing like the silence and serenity of sailing, with a sound track provided by the lapping waves and barking sea lions. The Yaquina Bay Bridge is a spectacular backdrop, and the sights of the bay’s working fishing fleet are a feast for the eyes. There is always something going on in the bay, from fishing boats bustling in and out to the occasional visit by orcas. “We sail year round in the Bay and feel so fortunate to live in such a beautiful place and be able to enjoy it by land and sea,” says

Daniella Crowder of Newport, who sails along with her husband and son. “We race each week during the season on our sailboat, we enjoy leisurely cruising in the Bay, and we love to partner up with other boats and follow each other out the mouth of the river and sail to the lighthouse.” Wind conditions are variable, but best in the summer months. “It often blows hard from the northwest in the afternoons in the summer,” Weitkamp says, “Afternoons in July it can be 20-25 miles per hour.” Coastal fog can also be a challenge, especially for sailors who leave the bay to venture out into the coastal ocean. Be aware of changing

conditions, and make sure to have gear appropriate for your sail. Visiting sailboats can find moorage at the Port of Newport’s South Beach Marina (www.portofnewport.com/recreationalmarina/) on the south side of the bay or at the Embarcadero Resort (www. embarcaderoresort.com) on the north side. Local sailors congregate at the Yaquina Bay Yacht Club. Dating back to the mid1940s, the club promotes all kinds of water sports locally, particularly yachting. The club provides lessons for kids and adults, organizes weekly races in the summertime, sponsors two regattas per year, and provides social activities for members, bringing together the local sailing community. Adults and kids with any level of skill can take classes through the club. Certified instructors lead week-long summer camps for kids ages 10-18 in sailing, using small dinghies called 420s, and kayaking. Class sites range from the yacht club’s facility on Yaquina Bay to sites in Toledo and Lincoln City, so make sure to check the yacht club’s web site for details. Participants need to be able to swim, and will need a wetsuit for the cold local waters. Don’t let the kids have all the fun – the

yacht club offers classes for adults as well, in the small 420s as well as the club’s own keel boat. Classes are offered by certified instructors throughout the year; contact the yacht club for more information. If you happen to have your boat with you in Newport, be sure to join in the fun of the weekly races in the bay that the yacht club organizes. Every Wednesday at 6 pm members race around the navigation buoys in the bay, just for fun. Spectators also enjoy the parade of crisp white sails moving against the backdrop of our gorgeous bay and stately bridge. Once a month the weekly races are followed by a pot-luck at the clubhouse, and visitors are welcome. The Yaquina Bay Yacht Club sponsors two regattas in Yaquina Bay each year: one the last weekend in April and one on Columbus Day Weekend in October. The spring event kicks off the sailing season with a celebratory series of races, as well as a barbeque dinner at the Yacht Club. The Columbus Day Regatta, the club’s signature event, raises money for the hospice program at the local hospital. This weekend-long event attracts boats from throughout the state. It includes a dinner at the Yacht Club that non-sailors are welcome to attend; proceeds from the dinner also

benefit the hospice program. Spectators can join in the fun aboard a Marine Discovery Tours boat to get closer to the action out on the bay. Those that are ready for the adventure of offshore racing can enter the Bridge to Bridge race at the end of July, which goes from the mouth of the Columbia River at Astoria to the mouth of the Yaquina River, a total of 150 miles. The yacht club offers many benefits to members, above and beyond camaraderie, races, and potluck dinners. Members (who have proven competency on the appropriate boat) can borrow the club’s many boats: a fleet of 420 dinghies and kayaks, one 23’ keel boat, and a 14-foot aluminum skiff for crabbing (crab rings are available as well). Members also get discounts on classes and clubhouse rental, free entry into the weeknight races, and many other perks. The yacht club always welcomes new members, and you’ll find the local sailing crowd welcoming and laid-back, like everything in Newport. For more information, check out the club’s web site at www.yaquinabayyachtclub.org. We’ll see you on the water!

For Your Boating Needs If you need line, shackles, tarps, engine parts, fishing gear, rubber boots … well, if you need pretty much anything related to working or playing on the water, you can find it at the large range of marine supply businesses in Newport, including these:

Englund Marine Supply 880 SE Bay Blvd (541) 265-9275

Schiewe Marine Supply 103 SE Bay Blvd (541) 265-7382

Troyer’s Marine Supply 1244 SE Bay Blvd (541) 265-6653

Newport Marine & RV Service 4354 Oregon Coast Hwy South Beach (541) 867-3704

Fore!

The hole story of Newport’s Agate Beach Golf Course

By Nancy Steinberg

olfers: there’s no need to skip tee time while you’re visiting Newport. Bring those clubs along and play at the lovely, rolling Agate Beach Golf Course, just across the street from the Pacific Ocean. This regulation nine-hole course is the perfect place to practice putting, take a lesson, or play a game. The course has been part of the Newport landscape since 1931, when it opened as the Agate Beach Golf Links. Bill and Ramona Martin bought the course in 1960, and the family has owned and operated it ever since, making a range of improvements and changes over the decades, including building the clubhouse and adding automated irrigation and the driving range. The Martin family has golf in their blood – it has been their business as well as their pleasure for generations – and their combined expertise

Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

in the game itself as well as in course design, maintenance, and management results in a superb golf experience for visitors and locals alike. Terry Martin, Bill’s son, now runs the course with his mom, and serves as the head golf pro. He describes the course as “Easy to walk, and well-manicured. Players don’t usually need a cart here.” The easy feel of the place mirrors the rolling course. “We pride ourselves on a friendly, fun atmosphere. It’s a casual course, and we like to make people feel at home,” Terry says. The mild winters on the central coast mean that golf can essentially be played yearround. Coastal wind can be a factor at the course, but it is also protected by many trees. The slope is 107 with a rating of 66.0 for men, while for women the course’s slope is 109 with a rating of 69.4. The total distance

from the ladies tee is 2,894 yards for a par of 38. The total distance from the men’s tee is 3,002 yards for a par of 36. The course’s signature hole, built by Bill Martin shortly after purchasing the property, is the eighth. A par 3, the 115-yard hole is surrounded by towering fir and hemlock trees, and now serves as a memorial to Bill, Golf continued on page 58

When You Go Agate Beach Golf Course

4100 Oregon Coast Highway (541) 265-7331 www.agatebeachgolf.net

MUGGLY’S

Bo wling n!!! , Food & Fu GOOD GAME OF FOR BOWLING

ONE FREE

675 NW Hwy 20 • Toledo Just 7 minutes east of Newport 541-336-2787 • MugglysBowling.com

The Oregon Resort with the Million Dollar View!

Please visit my art studio in Nye Beach, where I paint local scenes, puffins, and western art. I also illustrate boooks, design cards, logos, and teach various classes. At the Corner of Olive and Brook Newport ~ 541-961-1295 mcmoir@gmail.com

Agate Beach Golf Course

Nine Hole ~ Regulation ~ Par 36 ~ Public Easy to Walk ~ Families Welcome Pro Shop / Driving Range / Lessons Café Featuring Breakfast & Lunch

LOCATED NORTH OF NEWPORT NEAR YAQUINA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE

4100 N. Coast Hwy., Newport, Oregon 97365 Call for Tee Times: (541) 265-7331 www.agatebeachgolf.net

Located on the Historic Newport Bayfront and set against the backdrop of Yaquina Bay, Embarcadero Resort Hotel & Marina is the perfect destination for business and pleasure.

       

60 well appointed Guestrooms Waterfront Grille & Lounge ® Indoor Salt Water Pool & Spa Women's & Men’s Saunas Private Marina & Crab Dock Crab Boat Equipment Rental 4000 Sq. Ft of Meeting Space Group Services and Catering

For Reservations please call 1-800.547.4779

on-line reservations please visit our website at www.embarcaderoresort.com For GROUP & CATERING information or inquiries please call our Sales Office at 541.265.8137 1000 SE Bay Boulevard, Newport, Oregon 97365

Golf continued from page 56

who passed away in 1995. Tee times can be reserved, but a reservation is not usually needed, making Agate Beach the perfect course for visitors, Terry says. Lessons can be arranged for individuals and groups with one of the course’s four golf instructors, all PGA-certified. The staff is particularly dedicated to encouraging a love of golf in the next generation: Agate Beach offers a week-long golf “camp” for little putters, ages 5-16, in the early summer, open to all, and the Newport High School boys and girls golf teams practice for free at the course. The course hosts both a men’s and ladies’ golf association, which sponsor tournaments and meet for regular tee times during the week. They welcome visitors; call the clubhouse for more information. Punch cards are also available for eight months of the year, and a membership program is also offered. The course has a well-appointed pro shop, offering a great selection of gear and apparel, including souvenir

Photo by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

items embossed with the course’s logo. Post-game, (or pre-game?), make sure to grab a bite to eat at the excellent coffee shop on site for breakfast or lunch. Non-golfers are always welcome as well. The coffee shop offers home-cooked food, including soups and sandwiches, at very reasonable prices. Depending on how your game has gone, you can order the Sandbagger (one egg, two slices of bacon, toast, and potatoes), the Hacker (two eggs any style, potatoes and toast), the Par Burger (1/3-lb burger, served with chips, fries, or cole slaw), or add cheese and make it a Bogey Burger. The service is excellent, and the food is fresh and hearty. “Golf is a game you can play your whole lifetime, whether you’re five or 86,” Terry Martin says, gesturing to his mom, Ramona, the matriarch of the course. Agate Beach Golf Course is the perfect place for everyone to hone their game, and the Martins have a tee time just for you.

No clubs? Try disc golf instead! Can’t abide the idea of that tiny white ball and vanishingly small hole? Why not try a totally different kind of golf, gaining popularity around the country: disc golf! This sport is played with Frisbee-like discs and basket targets placed around a course much like traditional golf. There are two courses in Newport: one at the Wilder housing development (18 holes) and one at South Beach State Park (9 holes). The course at South Beach is easier, really aimed at families, while the Wilder course is more difficult, requiring a fair bit of hiking in ravines and over and under brushy areas to get from hole to hole. Use of both courses is free.

Wilder Disc Golf Course:

SE 40th Street, South Beach Turn east on SE 40th St. off of Hwy 101 at the signs for Wilder/Oregon Coast Community College. Course is in the woods to the left of the road at the top of the hill. Park near the dog park but not in the bike lanes.

South Beach State Park Disc Golf Course:

Turn into South Beach State Park entrance 3 miles south of Yaquina Bay Bridge. Turn towards the campground and park on the wood-chipped pull off.

7760 North Highway 101, Gleneden Beach, OR • 1-800-452-2300 • reservations@salishan.com We’re about giving you a full experience. We’re about world class massages, relaxing facials and playing through 18 Holes of Heaven overlooking the Pacific. Serving you delicious steak dinner at day’s end, and having a hearty breakfast waiting for you when you wake. Giving the kids something to explore inside our hundreds of hikeable acres, or letting them entertain themselves at the game zone. We’re about indulging your imagination and enjoyment for the Oregon Coast on convenient day-trips to dozens of wineries, aquariums, incredible beaches and unique coastal attractions all within mere miles of Salishan. Whether it’s for business or pleasure, you’ll quickly see what sets us apart. Pastoral accents on natural-stone walls, tree-branch arrangements flanking gas fireplaces, intricate woodwork and inviting leather furniture… Salishan incorporates its rustic surroundings into an aesthetic that is entirely unique from today’s minimalist urban design. Come explore everything our 250-acre property has to offer.

Beneath the Surface

SCUBA divers will love Newport’s underwater treasures

By Nancy Steinberg

here are many ways to get your ocean fix while in Newport, ranging from eating a meal with a water view to taking a long beach walk to surfing a wave or two. But many oceanophiles just won’t be satisfied until they’ve donned SCUBA tanks, weights, and masks, and truly submerged themselves in the deep blue sea. The ocean off of Newport is chockfull of great dive sites, and there are a few you can access right from shore as well. Before you wiggle into that wetsuit (or better yet, drysuit) and fill that tank, though, be aware that diving on the Oregon coast requires experience and fortitude. Jim Burke is one of those that can’t get enough of the underwater world. He is the

Photos by: Jim Burke

Director of Animal Husbandry at the Oregon Coast Aquarium, responsible for overseeing the care and feeding of all the critters that live there. In his spare time, one of his favorite hobbies is diving in the nearby ocean, to see those animals in their natural habitat. “Diving the Oregon coast is not for the faint of heart,” warns Burke. “We encounter rough water, currents, surge, and highly variable visibility.” But the rewards can be tremendous. While summer is high tourist season on the Oregon coast, and the season when storms are less likely to blow you off the water, it actually is not always the best time to dive. Good dives can be undertaken year-round, but the best conditions are generally found

in the fall through the spring, when water clarity is highest (summer plankton blooms, which fuel the richness and diversity of our marine ecosystem, tend to limit visibility). But a calm, clear day can happen at any time, so be aware of conditions. “I’ve had days of 100-foot visibility in November and December,” Burke marvels. Depending on where you are diving, tidal conditions are also important to note, as is the status of the wind and weather. Finally, you’ve probably already figured out that this is not Maui: the water is cold, even in the summertime, and a drysuit is advised to keep you warm. For experienced divers, properly geared

up, the diving here can be exquisite. Just by slipping into the water at the south jetty on Yaquina Bay, divers can see lingcod, rockfish, surf perch, and the occasional giant Pacific octopus. You could get buzzed by a sea lion or a seal. If you have access to a boat and can head offshore even one to two miles, spectacular reefs await, where rockfish, crabs, and octopuses abound. There are dive spots all the way along the central coast, most about one and a half to two miles offshore. Off of Seal Rock is one terrific spot, teeming with local species. Johnson Rock off of Lost Creek south of Newport is characterized by fascinating bottom contours, dropping quickly from 12 to 75 feet; this fish hotspot is frequented by charter fishing boats as well. Not far from the jetty on the north side of the entrance to Yaquina Bay there are multiple shipwrecks to explore, including the oil tanker Blue Magpie that wrecked there in 1983. Wreck dives are a favorite of Burke’s. “They’re like fish condominium complexes,” he says. “Each little nook and cranny has a fish hanging out in it.” Great diving can be found on the reefs of the marine reserve located offshore roughly between Beverly Beach and Otter Rock. “There is great diving there,” Burke says. “It’s fairly shallow and really colorful.” He advises staying to the east side of the offshore rocks there to avoid the summer wind. At the north end of the marine reserve and north to Depoe Bay there are kelp beds. While sea otters are officially considered extinct in the state, all of the recent confirmed sightings of the mammal in state waters have occurred here, so divers could get very lucky. Whale Cove is another hot spot for fish and invertebrates. Burke reminds divers that all of these spots are challenging. “Divers here all need to be in good shape, highly competent, and

comfortable with their gear,” he stresses. In 20-plus years of diving in the area, Burke has seen some amazing underwater sights. He’s seen grey whales, a 100-lb giant Pacific octopus, and more fish than he can count. He had an incredible encounter offshore with two ocean sunfishes, massive, strange fish that look like they are only half-finished. He loves seeing seabirds underwater, which appear silvery because of the air trapped in their feathers. His favorite dives are those that start shallow and drop quickly to 120 feet or more. “You feel weightless, flying past millions of animals on the rocks and in the water,” he says. South Beach SCUBA in Depoe Bay runs SCUBA trips in the area; a four-hour, twotank dive costs $80. Many local charter fishing operations will also take out SCUBA divers by special arrangement. Eugene Skin Divers (www.eugeneskindivers.com) occasionally organizes trips to the coast. Air tanks can be filled at South Beach marina and at South Beach SCUBA (214 SE Hwy 101 in Depoe Bay; (541) 765-DIVE). South Beach SCUBA

also rents dive packages and stocks a wide range of gear. The Oregon Coast Aquarium offers multiple opportunities for divers to take the plunge, both in their display tanks and in the nearby ocean. Certified divers are invited to participate in a dive in the aquarium’s series of large displays, called Passages of the Deep, including the open water tank containing many large sharks and other deep-water species (go to aquarium.org/education/divethe-aquarium for details). A cadre of about 140 divers is certified and trained to serve as volunteer divers at the aquarium. These divers enter the aquarium’s tanks to conduct cleaning, inspections, feedings, animal observations, and interpretive programs. A few highly-trained expert volunteer divers also assist aquarium dive staff in research dives. Cold-water dive certification and extensive training is required to become part of the aquarium’s dive team; see the aquarium’s volunteer information on their web site for more information, or contact volunteer@aquarium.org.

Sleep Under the Stars Camping in Newport by Nancy Steinberg

amping in Newport allows visitors to get up close and personal with the beaches and forests of the coasts. How better to end a day at the beach than roasting marshmallows over a roaring campfire? In my family we prefer tent camping, but those interested in RV camping or staying in a yurt (a small, round, canvas-sided cabin with a wooden floor) can also find accommodations in the campgrounds of Newport. Two gorgeous campgrounds close to all that Newport has to offer yet offering peaceful havens from “the big city” are Beverly Beach State Park and South Beach State Park. While the two parks have similar amenities, they are situated in contrasting environments, so you just might have to check out both while you’re in town. One piece of advice: these campgrounds do tend to fill up, especially on summer weekends. Make your plans early!

Beverly Beach:

Gnarly Trees and Ancient Fossils Beverly Beach State Park just north of Newport includes an expansive campground (53 full-hookup sites, 75 electrical sites with water, 128 tent sites, and 21 yurts) in a coastal forest just east of a gorgeous beach. As a tent camper, I’m partial to the tent sites on the outside of loops B and D which are right along Spencer Creek. Gnarled Sitka spruce, some of them so-called “octopus trees,” are found throughout the campground and cast eerie shadows as the sun sets. Sites are wooded and flat, and include paved parking, fire rings,

and picnic tables. The Spencer Creek Nature Trail runs through the woods along some of the camping loops, and the Spencer Creek Welcome Center serves as a Visitor Center for the park – check out the enormous grey whale skull on display. An open-air amphitheater hosts summer ranger talks and other events – check the schedule at the campground for details when you visit. The beach at Beverly Beach is really special. Spencer Creek finds its way to the ocean here, and makes for a great spot for rock hounds to search for treasures. Beverly Beach is also well-known for fossils, which can be found strewn on the beach and embedded in rocks and the cliffs that line the shore (it’s OK to collect fossils from the beach for your personal collection, but Oregon law prohibits prying them from the cliff faces).

South Beach:

Off the Dirt and Into a Yurt At both Beverly Beach and South Beach, you can reserve yurts; we particularly like them at South Beach where the camp sites are in the back dune ecosystem, so they are less wooded and shaded than in other campgrounds. A few yurts are even pet-friendly (two of the 27 at South Beach), but they tend to be reserved even earlier than the regular yurts, so plan ahead. The South Beach yurts are incredibly comfortable, with sleeping space for five (on bunk beds and a fold-down couch – bring your own blankets/sleeping bags/pillows). They include a small table and chairs inside, a lockable door, and the typical fire ring and

picnic table amenities of all campsites at the park. It’s like a very small cabin, which can provide protection if you happen to be camping on a rainy day and would like to play cards until the shower passes (it will pass!). South Beach State Park is chock-full of things to do. The beach itself is wide, uncrowded, and easily accessible from the campground. It’s a great spot for beginning surfers and boogie boarders, with plenty of room to spread out and learn. Trails spider-web throughout the park, both paved for bikes and roller blades and unpaved for hiking and trail-running. Birding can be spectacular on these trails: I’ve seen everything from goldfinches to winter wrens to nighthawks to cedar waxwings in the area. Horses are allowed on the beach; the equestrian unloading area is at the South Jetty access point under the south end of the bridge. You can sign up for guided kayak tours through the park which tour Ona Beach State Park and Beaver Creek to the south. The playground at the campground provides loads of fun for younger campers in between roasting-hot-dog-time and firesidestory-time. One last special note about South Beach: if you listen carefully and are very lucky, you might hear coyotes yipping at dawn or dusk here, as friends of mine did recently when walking in the early morning in the park. Close to town but on the edge of wilderness!

When You Go: Reservations at both Beverly Beach State Park and South Beach State Park can be made up to nine months ahead through reserveamerica.com or their mobile app. You can even choose the precise camp site you’d like by browsing their interactive maps of each campground. You can also reserve by calling 800-452-5687. Beverly Beach Photos by: Jo-Hanna Wienert

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