subculture tightly tied to the online culture, within which things are remediated.46 Understanding the type of sources used here helps to analyze Smart style and the group of youths later.
Smart in Media Discourse In Foucault’s definition, discourse is a system that produces knowledge through language, and knowledge is used to regulate others’ conducts in modern society.47 Since fashion is directly related to the body, fashion media exercise their power more directly to us. Rocamora defines “fashion discourse” as “a meeting of statements pertaining to various discursive formations and shaped by various fields, but whose combination is specific to the field of fashion.”48 It is constructed by designers, museums, as well as the media. The latter is now already a vital part because of the mediatization of fashion. As Eric Rothenbuhler defines, “mediatization” is “the process by which activities of various social spheres come to be conducted under the influence of the media, with the media, through the media, or by the logic of the media.”49 In regards to fashion practices, they “have adapted to, and been transformed by, the media”,50 be it fashion images on social media, virtual fashion avatar, or the emerging online fashion commerce. Thus, looking at current media
Szarecki, Artur. “Affective politics and online culture: Reserved’s digital marketing campaign in posthegemonic perspective.” International Journal of Cultural Studies 24(6) (2021): 881-898. 47 Hall, Stuart. Representation: cultural representations and signifying practices. London: Thousand Oaks 1997. 48 Rocamora, Agnès. Fashioning the City: Paris, Fashion and the Media. London: I. B. Tauris 2009: 58. 49 Rothenbuhler, Eric W. “Continuities: Communicative Form and Institutionalization.” In Lundby, Knut (ed.) Mediatization: Concept, Changes, Consequences. New York: Peter Lang 2009: 279, quoted in Agnès Rocamora, “Mediatization and Digital Retail.” 50 Rocamora, Agnès. “Mediatization and Digital Media in the Field of Fashion.” Fashion Theory 21(5) (2017): 505-522: 509. 46
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