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Inside
Welcome
4 Golden weekend
16 Taste the passion
Rediscovering the Gold Coast in 48 hours
8 Miles of isles Inspiration for your perfect next Great Barrier Reef escape
Food festivals put Queensland flavours in the spotlight
18 Escape to Eden Embrace autumn in a national park near you
11 Secrets and stories
21 It’s Live!
Personal encounters with Aboriginal culture
Great events for your diary
12 Red heart revealed
Adventures in the Outback
15 Dream deals
22 Humpback heaven It’s playtime in Queensland’s whale nursery
YOURPERFECTNEXT APRIL 2018
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hose of us lucky enough to live in Queensland have long known it’s a place where life is ‘beautiful one day, perfect the next’. It’s a place where unforgettable experiences abound, and where your
perfect next escape, indulgence or family adventure awaits. That might be a road trip through dramatic Outback landscapes, exchanging stories with the locals and fossicking for dinosaur bones. Or perhaps a swim with humpback whales in Hervey Bay, an internationally recognised retreat for these magnificent marine giants. It might be connecting with nature in a nearby national park, or making a pilgrimage to the Great Barrier Reef, a global icon in our own backyard. As a Queenslander, your perfect next adventure is just around the corner and the memories you make there will last forever.
Perfect next Queensland escapes for you to book today
Find your perfect next holiday at queensland.com
The Team Editor: Jane Scott Designer: Barbara la Grange Produced by News Corp Studios for Tourism and Events Queensland www.newscorpstudiosqld.com.au
Pictured above: Great Keppel Island, Southern Great Barrier Reef (see page 8)
Golden weekend Got 48 hours? Discover the new-wave Gold Coast with Rory Gibson
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hile 12 days of thrilling action at the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games are coming to a close, the Coast will continue to shine – providing visitors with experiences to delight the senses and nourish the soul. Where else can you swim in exhilarating Pacific Ocean surf in the morning, trek through World Heritage rainforest in the afternoon and end the day with a world-class meal or prizewinning craft beer? As any resident will tell you, the Gold Coast has come of age. What was once Brisbane’s brash younger sibling is now a vibrant, confident city, and over the course of 48 hours, you can discover that for yourself.
FRIDAY NIGHT Queenslanders are a lucky bunch. The Gold Coast is in our front yard and most of us are a comfortable drive or a short flight away from its charms. Many locals remember holidaying at the Gold Coast as a kid, when accommodation was limited to fibro shacks and shoebox motels, with the first high-rises just beginning to go up. While the city is now better known for its many luxury resorts and holiday 4 YOUR PERFECTNEXT
apartments, there are some stylishly understated options for those with more eclectic tastes. If the recent Guy Pearce and Kylie Minogue movie Swinging Safari has you yearning for an old-school beach holiday, check into La Costa Motel at Bilinga Beach, close to where the movie was filmed. Simple beach shack-style furnishings and a sweet retro vibe invite barefoot relaxation with no pretensions. The beach is just 50m away, at the end of the street, or you can take a spin to nearby Currumbin or Coolangatta on complimentary vintage bikes. Further north, design buffs are queuing up to stay at Burleigh’s Bon Sol apartments, the latest chic bolthole from acclaimed interior designer Anna Spiro, of trendsetting Cabarita Beach resort Halcyon House. Bon Sol is perfectly placed on Burleigh’s beachfront Esplanade for those looking to tap into the Coast’s hip new vibe, with craft breweries, award-winning eateries and excellent espresso close at hand. Now it’s time to unpack, kick back and turn your attention to planning your weekend.
SATURDAY MORNING Rise with the sun and hit the beach – always the GC’s biggest draw. The Coast started life as a laid-back collection of beach shacks inhabited by people dedicated to the delights of the ocean, and that culture remains an integral part of the city’s personality. Watching surfers cut a swathe through the Pacific swell is great, but with the help of former champion surfer Mark “Richo” Richardson, you could soon be riding the waves yourself. Mark runs Surfing Services Australia with his wife Bianca, where
instructors have first-timers paddling out through smaller waves at the Currumbin Creek entrance while they build their confidence. The magic of catching your first wave with the skyscrapers of Surfers in the distance is a memory to treasure. Before plunging into the waves, you can also salute the sun at 6am with Mae Occhilupo, who offers a combined yoga and surf option through Surfing Services. Experiencing a surge in popularity is stand-up paddleboarding, and the man introducing many to the sport is triathlete and paddleboarder Justin Mitchell, who runs JM Stand Up Paddle with his brother Paul. While Justin has paddled 4m waves in his time, his students find their feet on flat water at Currumbin Creek or further south at Tweed Heads. Build your core strength while gliding past some of the Gold Coast’s most beautiful scenery; your abs will thank you for it.
SATURDAY LUNCH Recent years have seen the Gold Coast transformed from a surf-and-turf town to a foodie destination in its own right. Fourteen restaurants earned coveted hats in the Australian Good
Hit the beach at Burleigh Heads, top, then venture to Miami Marketta, left, for a vibrant evening.
Food and Travel Guide awards for 2018, and for lunch with an ocean view, your choices are legion. Burleigh’s Rick Shores is as waterfront as it gets, perched over the sand at the south end of the beach. The clever pan-Asian menu sings against a backdrop of phenomenal views. Don’t forget your sunglasses – you’ll need them. Nearby, The Fish House has multiple awards to its name. Order the signature Patagonian toothfish from Heard Island and don’t forget to look at your plate while you eat – the presentation is exquisite, but the ocean views are a powerful distraction. At Currumbin’s popular Elephant Rock Café, you’re just steps from the sand – share fresh oysters or an antipasto “longboard” to start, before moving on to shellfish linguine and char-grilled Moreton Bay bugs. For a wholefoods option, popular BSKT Café at Nobby Beach has superfood salads, poke bowls and protein plates, reflecting the Coast’s growing identity as a wellness hub. And since you’re on holiday, how about a beer – but not just any beer. The all grown-up Gold Coast is now a centre of craft beer brewing excellence. Champion surfers Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson are part of the team behind Balter Brewery, whose Balter’s XPA (Extra Pale Ale) was voted number one beer in the Great Australian Beer Spectacular’s Hottest 100 Craft Beers poll. Lost Palms Brewing Co at Miami is a newcomer to the scene, with a tap house where you can sample freshly
brewed pilsner, pale ale and cider. Or visit Backbone Bar & Kitchen at Tugun, which has a range of local craft beers on tap, plus tasty Asianthemed snacks.
SATURDAY AFTERNOON It’s hard to go past a walk along any of the Gold Coast’s glorious sandy expanses, taking in the deliciously salty air as you go, but there are alternatives. The hills of the hinterland offer a lush, green escape into ancient rainforest, with shimmering waterfalls and swimming holes to cool off in. The drive to historic O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in Lamington National Park is an adventure in itself. Switchback turns near the top offer thrilling views back down to the ocean, before you enter a tunnel of trees, some species of which date back to Gondwanan times. There’s always the option to spend a night in the hinterland rather than heading back to the Coast. Nightfall Wilderness Camp, also in Lamington National Park, is a glamper’s delight. Sign up for a wilderness massage before tucking into an organic feast designed just for you. After dinner, star-gaze from the comfort of your private, luxuriously appointed tent.
SATURDAY NIGHT For those heading back to the Coast, the city’s night markets feature great street food with a buzzing atmosphere. Miami Marketta offers a taste of the Coast’s thriving cultural scene with food from the world over and live music. Satisfy your appetite with loaded burgers, steaming bowls of
pho and handmade gnocchi, but leave room for something sweet from the dessert hall. The NightQuarter Market at Helensvale is a shipping-container city decked with fairy lights and packed with vibrant micro-restaurants, designer stalls and live music. Stroll down Tapas, Hawker and High Streets, where the challenge is trying to choose between the multiple cuisines on offer. Once you’ve eaten, finish the night at one of the new breed of Gold Coast bars, where the focus is less on partying than on sampling specialist spirits or taking in rooftop views. The Scottish Prince at Palm Beach is owned by a consortium including Channel 9 stars Sylvia Jeffreys and Peter Stefanovic. Settle into one of the cosy booths because there are 150 whiskies to try, so you may be there some time. For a change of pace, the glamorous Rooftop Bar at cool boutique hotel The Island in Surfers Paradise is surrounded by the city lights with a view down to Main Beach. It’s Gold Coast glitz with a funky edge. Bon Sol sun loungers on the beach at Burleigh, top; a bird’s eye view of the Gold Coast from a chopper, above; glamping at Nightfall Wilderness Camp, left.
>> Find your perfect next Gold Coast weekend at queensland.com
SUNDAY After a sleep-in, kickstart your final day with an exhilarating chopper ride with Sea World Helicopters. Choose from a short joy flight over the famous marine park and the Southport Seaway, or opt for a longer tour, taking in the Coast’s shining high-rises and mountainous hinterland. After touching down, you can discover thrills of a different kind – swimming with dolphins and saying hello to Mishka, the baby polar bear. There are more adorable babies at Dreamworld, where twin tiger cubs Melati and Mya were born in January. Visit them at the Tiger Island nursery between 10am and 4pm daily. Golf lovers should make a date for mid-2018, when Warner Bros Movie World is expected to launch Australia’s first Topgolf venue. A sensation in the United States and the UK, Topgolf offers golf games for all skill levels, with microchipped balls being aimed at giant circular targets. As your weekend at the new, sophisticated Gold Coast draws to a close, it might be time to reflect on how much things have changed. What may have started life as a surfie hangout defined by its great beaches is now a vibrant city with an adventurous spirit, but with an eye to the finer things in life. Sounds like the perfect place for a weekend to remember. n queensland.com/goldcoast YOUR PERFECTNEXT 5
THE NOSTALIGIC AND THE NEW Places become icons thanks to those who have loved them, and for these Gold Coast treasures it’s not hard to see why.
CONNECT There’s a niggling to relive first time memories. We feel it when holding old photo albums in our hands, heavy with the weight of a thousand firsts. Hear it when young ones arrive home from an adventure. It’s time to set out on your next adventure to keep the magic alive through the generations by revisiting the places you know and love. As we
grow up, so too do the destinations we pin memories to. Come and see how your favourites have grown and evolved. Create some new firsts from these iconic Gold Coast experiences.
INSPIRE Remember that faded photo on the fridge of family surrounded by lorikeets? Currumbin Wildlife
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Sanctuary’s Lost Valley now captures a time where lemurs leap in unison with tamarins and friendly capybara’s hang out with prehistoric birds. Recreate that photo with a new twist and be transported back to Gondwana days in a huge aviary that allows you to interact with exotic wildlife. This crown jewel of the National Trust of Australia is also home to one of the busiest animal hospitals in the world. Take advantage of online specials.
AS WE GROW UP, SO TOO DO THE DESTINATIONS WE PIN MEMORIES TOO
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The importance of conservation is inherently adopted through the combination of curiosity and giggles. Sea World’s Seal Guardians Presentation does just this. Keep the love of learning going at the soon to come, Sea Jellies Illuminated exhibit. Seemingly from another dimension, dots of illuminated colour glow in the dark at this functioning research lab.
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Lost Valley, Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary
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DC Rivals HyperCoaster, Warner Bros. Movie World
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PAW Patrol on Holidays Show, Sea World
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Tiger Cubs, Dreamworld
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Play School Wheel, Dreamworld
BROUGHT TO YOU BY DESTINATION GOLD COAST
MEMORABLE MOMENTS
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EXCITE From the depths of the ocean to sky high, amp it up on the DC Rivals HyperCoaster at Warner Bros. Movie World for serious thrills cred. Grab a multi-park pass to awaken your inner adventurer at Movie World, Sea World, Wet’n’Wild Gold Coast and Paradise Country; then lead the charge for playful family fun with an entertainment-filled, sports bar twist at the soon to come, Topgolf.
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See the sky light up on the city’s highest outdoor experience, the SkyPoint Night Climb or take in the views from prime position at the Observation Deck.
BEDTIME STORIES Join the stockmen and women of the Australian Outback Spectacular. Enjoy the greatest stories ever told at the Return of High Country Legends over a three course dinner.
SOAR & ROAR Fly through time on the new Play School Wheel at Dreamworld. With traditional morals and a new lick of paint, Big Ted is bringing joy to old fans and new. Once you’ve landed, go from soar to roar with two of the cutest new tiger cubs and youngest conservationists on Tiger Island, Melati and Mya. Go back in time on the Log Ride and Vintage Cars or cool down next door at WhiteWater World. You can visit both worlds with an annual or season pass letting you come back for more, time and again.
TRAVEL DOWN CAVILL Follow the fun trail throughout Surfers Paradise with a visit to Ripley’s Believe it or Not, Timezone and 7D Cinema to Infinity and beyond at iFLY.
DREAM TO FLY
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Discover more at DestinationGoldCoast.com
Take the leap at the highest and longest zip-line in Australia. Immersed within the wonders of the hinterland, Canyon Flyer feels like a dream at the Tree Top Challenge.
Miles of isles Like jewels dotting the glorious Great Barrier Reef, these islands offer the ultimate relaxing escape. Join Kerry Heaney on a tour of her favourites
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ou don’t have to leave Queensland to feel like you’re a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Just maroon yourself on one of the Great Barrier Reef’s beautiful islands to explore this natural wonder – you’ll never want to be found. Made up of 2900 individual coral reefs, 600 continental islands and 200 coral cays, the Great Barrier Reef is the largest and most extensive coral reef system on earth. A rich underwater world, it’s home to giant clams over 120 years old, more than 650 species of soft and hard corals, 1625 species of fish, more than 30 species of whales and dolphins, and six of the world’s seven species of marine turtles. The sheer diversity of the marine life is surpassed only by the reef’s spectacular natural beauty, and there are many ways for visitors to experience the magic.
UNTAMED BEAUTY Just 15km off the coast of Yeppoon, Great Keppel Island touches the Southern Great Barrier Reef. The mostly untamed 240ha island has 17 white sand beaches and is a water sports haven. Geoff Mercer of Great Keppel Island Holiday Village says a great way to explore the reef is to take a 15-minute stroll from the resort down to Fisherman’s Beach on the island’s west coast. From there it’s an easy swim following the rocks around to Shelving Beach and Monkey Beach. “It’s all very doable,” Geoff says. “The great thing about Keppel is that with 17 beaches and 20km-plus of coastline, there is always a sheltered spot to discover. “My favourite is Red Beach. You can only get there by boat, so I anchor up and have a surf on my board. It’s a secret. Shush! I always see turtles and
some great big potato cod near the old observatory.” Every morning before dawn, you’ll find Geoff on the sand spit where Putney and Fisherman’s beaches join. It has been his spot for 38 years to watch the sun come up over the island. This is Geoff’s time to give thanks to the earth for what it provides. With a few stretches and an early morning swim, he is balanced for the day. Cyclones and floods have impacted the reef around Great Keppel Island in recent years, but Geoff says that rejuvenation has been surprisingly rapid. “Much to the amazement of scientists, the reef has recovered in surprising places. Passage Rocks and Wreck Beach have bounced back,” he says. “Jet-ski tours of Great Keppel stop at Wreck Beach where the coral is very big and colourful and there are new soft corals. The sea is busy with rays, turtles, sharks and wobbegongs.”
LAP OF LUXURY When Mother Nature imagined an island paradise, she was thinking of Bedarra. A drop in the turquoise ocean just 10km off the coast from Mission Beach in Tropical North Queensland, Bedarra seductively combines white sand, boulder-edged coves, tropical rainforest nooks and walking trails.
One of Great Keppel Island’s 17 beaches, above; Coral Sea villa views from Bedarra, left. 8 YOUR PERFECTNEXT
There are 10 eco-luxury villas hidden amid the island’s 45ha where you can relax and take in the entrancing beach and bay views. From June to August, play spot the humpback whale as these giant mammals migrate north to mate and give birth. It is whale-spotting season again from September to November as the majestic creatures make their return journey, calves in tow, to feed on krill in Antarctic waters. A trip to the outer Great Barrier Reef is a highlight of any island stay and Bedarra offers daily private charters for small groups or couples. It’s an intimate experience, with expert guides providing a personalised reef excursion. Expect to see plenty of colourful marine life and coral types. Diving ranges from introductory PADI diving to more challenging sites for advanced divers. Snorkellers are also catered for. Bedarra’s own experiences include a candlelit dinner for two on a private beach, and gourmet picnics to be shared on nearby deserted islands – all featuring food prepared by the island’s talented chefs.
LOW-KEY ESCAPE Long like its name but only 400m wide at its broadest point, the nine stretched-out kilometres of Long Island are bursting with natural beauty. The closest of The Whitsunday islands to the mainland, this undeveloped paradise is ideal for beachcombing or exploring the 13km of mainly national park walking trails. The secluded bays are perfect for
>> Find your perfect next island escape at queensland.com
snorkelling the coral fringing reef or just throwing in a fishing line. The island’s only resort, Palm Bay Resort, has a mix of boutique huts, suites and houses, some fronting the beach, others nestled in the lush foliage. The resort is self-catering and easily accessible by water taxi from Shute Harbour or Hamilton Island in The Whitsundays. Palm Bay is also the perfect pop-off point to explore the reef and iconic Whitehaven Beach. Start your adventure by walking barefoot from the resort onto a seaplane and fly over exquisite Heart Reef. You’ll disembark directly on to Whitehaven Beach’s brilliant, powdery, white silica sand where it’s impossible to resist wading into the azure blue water that laps gently at the beach.
SWIM, SNORKEL, DIVE Whichever island you choose to stay at, there are multiple options for exploring the reef. For a full immersion experience,
pull on a scuba tank. But non-divers can see almost as much through a mask and snorkel as they float gently along the surface. You don’t even have to get your feet wet, with glassbottomed boats and semi-submersible submarines available to show you the reef’s wonders. Taking a trip with a reputable, ecologically sustainable operator certified by EarthCheck or Ecotourism Australia is one way you can contribute to protecting the reef’s biodiversity and future health. Operators that hold a Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority permit pay a $6.50 environmental management charge (EMC) on behalf of each tour guest to the GBRMPA. This assists with the organisation’s day-to-day management of the marine park and its work in improving the reef’s longterm resilience. While some reefs have been impacted by recent coral bleaching events, Paul Lim, General Manager of Pro Dive Cairns, says that his boats
Long Island’s Palm Bay Resort, above; snorkelling with turtles on the Great Barrier Reef, left.
visit sites that have a good cover of healthy coral. “We have over 16 different dive and snorkel sites that we can access,” Paul says. “With cooler water temperatures, we are seeing good coral rejuvenation in the areas impacted by recent natural events such as cyclones, bleaching and natural mortality.”
Everyone can do their bit in ensuring the sustainability of this fragile ecosystem, Paul says. “We ask that our guests carry a reusable water bottle over a plastic bottle, look and take nothing but memories of the amazing underwater environment. “We’d like everyone to leave us as ambassadors for reef protection.” n gkiholidayvillage.com.au; bedarra.com.au; palmbayresort.com.au; prodivecairns.com
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tanding on the platform at the restored Tully railway station, Sonya Jeffrey holds up an 80-year-old traditional hunting tool and asks those around her what it is called. “A boomerang,” comes the reply. But, as tour guide Sonya explains to her guests, while that has become the implement’s common name, it was traditionally used only by the Garigal people who lived in the Sydney region. On Queensland’s Cassowary Coast – where her company Ingan Tours operates – it is known as a wangal. “But there are eight kinds,” she explains. “Each has a different name, and a different use.” And, contrary to popular belief, they don’t all come back. “Some are designed to fly straight up in the air to catch birds,” Sonya says. “Others are made to be low-flying to target ground animals like wallabies.” It’s one of many misconceptions about Aboriginal culture that Sonya addresses on her tours, which are based out of the old railway station on the Bruce Highway between Townsville and Cairns. “A lot of information about Aboriginal people in this country is generalised,” she says. “I bring it down to a local perspective. People also think that all Aboriginal tribes play the didgeridoo, but the trees that are hollowed out by termites don’t grow in this rainforest. “Dot painting is another one – our art design is a diamond shape.” A Jirrbal Rainforest woman, Sonya began offering hiking and kayaking
The Jellurgal Walkabout tour, top; Sonya Jeffrey of Ingan Tours, below.
Secrets and stories Meet the Aboriginal Australians sharing their ancient culture with the world. By Angela Saurine tours in Tully Gorge National Park with her father, Dr Ernie Grant, six years ago. The hiking tours include a fivehour walk to Echo Creek Falls, while guests on the kayaking tours paddle pristine Bulgan Creek. What makes these tours resonate is the spiritual link that Sonya has with the rainforest, where her ancestors have lived for thousands of years. “It’s a very personal, intimate connection,” she says. “I don’t think I could live without going back into the rainforest to
connect. We strongly believe our ancestors’ spirits are in the rainforest and whenever we’re on tour we will speak in language to let them know we’re bringing visitors through. We believe if you hurt something in the rainforest it might hurt something else. We believe we have a duty of care to make sure everything is protected.” Sonya says guests on the tours are blown away when they learn how Aboriginal people lived off the land, and still could if they needed to. “I show them trees and say: ‘This is the chemist, this is the grocery store and this is the hardware store’. But the area has to be left alone to replenish.” Sonya isn’t the only one sharing their Aboriginal culture with Australian and international travellers. In Queensland’s south, Yugambeh, Yuggera and Quandamooka elder Eddie Ruska is doing the same. Eddie’s Spirits of the Red Sand live theatre show and dinner launched in March in Beenleigh, south of Brisbane. Set in a replica late-1800s Queensland town with a church, pub and Aboriginal village, it uses dance and storytelling to explore some of the
challenges that arose when British and Aboriginal ways of life collided. “It’s something that most of our people went through back in those days,” says Eddie, who was inspired by a visit to the Tamaki Maori Village in New Zealand’s Rotorua. Throughout the interactive show, the audience moves between sets, with performers joining guests for a barbecue dinner at the end of the night. Eddie hopes that Spirits of the Red Sand will fill the gaps in many Australians’ understanding of Aboriginal Australians’ past. “This is a story based on facts. It’s not a blame game, the blame game is over. Hopefully it helps people understand why Aboriginal people are fighting for equal rights. After people see the show they say they didn’t know that [these kind of things] had happened,” he says. At Burleigh, on the Gold Coast, guests can experience yet more insights on the two-hour long Jellurgal Walkabout tour. Beginning with a traditional smoking ceremony and ochre anointment, the tour skirts Jellurgal (Burleigh headland), with guests visiting a shell mound, or midden, and carving stone while hearing the Yugambeh people’s Dreamtime legend of the giant named Jabreen. With lush bush surrounds and views of surging surf, it’s an atmospheric introduction to a littleknown aspect of Gold Coast history. n ingan.com.au; spiritsredsand.com; jellurgal.com.au
>> Find your perfect next Aboriginal tour at queensland.com YOUR PERFECTNEXT 11
Red heart revealed For romance and adventure, the Outback is hard to beat. Join Danielle Lancaster as she encounters characters of the present and the very distant past
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tar-studded night skies, saltof-the-earth characters and a glimpse of ancient prehistory make a winter journey to Outback Queensland unforgettable. Mention the Outback, and for many visitors, Longreach springs to mind. An Outback hub, it’s an excellent place to start your adventure. You can self-drive, fly or travel overnight by rail on the Spirit of the Outback from Brisbane and/or Rockhampton to Longreach, where experiences include the Qantas Founders Museum, Outback Aussie Tours, Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame and those shimmering night skies. Travellers of all ages will adore the train ride, with its hint of old-school romance and the novelty of dozing off while the train eats up mile after mile of track. A sleeper offers the most comfort and privacy, and allows you to relax while savouring the on-board fare of scones with jam and cream, casseroles, roasts and hearty desserts. The ever-changing panorama outside your window is mesmerising, as the train follows the coast from
Clockwise from left: Heritage charm at Outback Pioneers; Robyn Mackenzie at Eromanga; Quilpie’s Lake Houdraman. 12 YOUR PERFECTNEXT
Brisbane to Rockhampton, where it takes a turn and heads directly west. At Emerald, the Spirit will pull up long enough for you to admire the heritage-listed railway station, with its elegant wrought-iron lacework. Longreach is the end of the line, where you can pick up a rental car for the rest of your journey. Allow six days to trace a circuit through some of the region’s most interesting towns; add an extra 48 hours to really relish the Outback sites and hospitality. For accommodation in Longreach, Outback Pioneers is more than a place to rest your head; it’s an experience in itself. Choose between the heritage-inspired Homestead Stables and Pioneer Slab Huts (complete with outdoor bath terrace for sunset bathing under
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OUTBACK ADVENTURE Explore the Outback on a road trip out of Longreach, above; the Spirit of the Outback, left.
the eucalypts), or the self-catering Outback Lodges. Take a sunset cruise on the Thomson River, visit Starlight’s Lookout and drive 27km east to Ilfracombe, where you can call in at the famous Wellshot Hotel and attempt to count the battered cattlemen’s hats that deck the walls and ceiling. From Longreach, journey 330km south-west towards Windorah through the little towns of Stonehenge and Jundah. A pit stop at the pub in either of these towns will yield a taste of authentic local character. If time permits, visit Welford National Park with its white-barked ghost gums, sand dunes and waterholes perfect for fishing and watching wildlife. Pretty Major Mitchell’s cockatoos, Mallee Ringnecks and red-winged parrots frequent the river at dawn and dusk. Windorah is the local Aboriginal name for big fish and the town sits close to Cooper Creek in the heart of the Channel Country. The creek is made by the merging of the Thomson and Barcoo rivers and was named by Charles Sturt in 1845. Camping is permitted by the creek, where massive river red gums provide welcome shade. Call in and visit or stay with Marilyn and Ian Simpson at the Western Star Hotel. This award-winning hotel
“It’s about learning about those ancient times when the Outback was a lot different to the one you see today” Robyn Mackenzie welcomes families and the grassy lawns are perfect for little legs to have a stretch. Marilyn and Ian have been in the hotel for more than 20 years and raised their family there. “Children love the freedom and space here,” explains Marilyn. “We love hearing their stories of their journey. Ian has a large map in the pub and families will sit and listen as he explains how the Channel Country works and runs into Lake Eyre. It’s fabulous to listen to the questions they ask about this important and rare river system.” While in Windorah, visit the sand dunes a short drive west of town – they are some of the deepest-red dunes in the Simpson. The town also has a solar electricity farm – its five giant dishes drawing energy from the sun – and an information centre with an original slab hut.
>> Find your perfect next Outback adventure at queensland.com
Next stop is Eromanga, 280km away. At the Eromanga Natural History Museum, farmer Robyn Mackenzie enthrals guests with her tale of dinosaur discovery. “We were mustering in 2004 and our son Sandy, who was 14 years old, saw a black rock among all the red stones,” Robyn says. “It was a few weeks before we had someone look at it. It turned out to be a dinosaur fossil, but the discovery got better. “This bone led us to find Australia’s largest dinosaur, who has been called Cooper. Cooper was a herbivore measuring 30m long and 6.5m tall and is one of the 10 largest in the world.” Robyn doesn’t get much time for mustering these days as she’s busy being a full-time amateur palaeontologist, overseeing digs and running the museum. “Children love the tours we offer at the museum and also at the site. They learn the story of the dinosaurs and the megafauna that came after them,” she says. “During one of the tours, they visit the prep room, get to hold the bones and talk with the team that works in the museum and at the site. It has become a real family educational program.
“We have also recently opened accommodation at the site so people can stay overnight.” Just over 100km east lies Quilpie, known as boulder opal country. Try your hand at the free fossicking site on the western fringe of the pretty town, or take in the sunset from the lookouts at Baldy Top and Table Top. At Lake Houdraman, hone those fishing skills or simply relax while watching the wildlife. Quilpie is also home to Lyn Barnes, an artist who has been inspired by the vibrant, arid Outback landscape. Find her at the Eagle Gallery and don’t be surprised if she offers a brush to your children and gives them a mini art lesson while you are there. “Being a mum, I know how creative children can be and they seem to become quite mesmerised with the techniques I use,” Lyn says. “They love the exciting colours and stories of the paintings. They have so many questions as they absorb all the facts of Outback life and our beautiful landscape.” From Quilpie, it’s an eight-hour drive back to Longreach via the towns of Charleville, Tambo and Blackall. From Longreach, catch a flight home or board a return train, where you can settle into your sleeper once again and dream of dinosaurs, starry nights and a landscape like no other. n queenslandrailtravel.com.au; outbackpioneers.com.au; westernstarhotel.com.au; enhm.com.au; lynbarnes.com YOUR PERFECTNEXT 13
MARK YOUR DIARIES FOR THESE
2018 EVENTS
Every event will leave you with a story to tell... APRIL
WINTON’S WAY OUT WEST FEST 19th - 22nd
MAY
BARCALDINE TREE OF KNOWLEDGE FESTIVAL 4th - 7th EULO MUSIC IN THE MULGA 17th - 20th
JUNE
THEODORE TRAIL RIDE 9th - 10th PORCUPINE GORGE CHALLENGE 16th WINTON VISION SPLENDID OUTBACK FILM FESTIVAL 29th - 7th July
JULY
BIRDSVILLE BIG RED BASH 10th - 12th CLONCURRY STOCKMAN’S CHALLENGE 12th - 15th BEDOURIE CAMEL RACES 14th BOULIA CAMEL RACES 20th - 22nd BILOELA QUEENSLAND HERITAGE RALLY 20th - 22nd
AUGUST
CLONCURRY CURRY MERRY MUSTER 3rd - 5th MOUNT ISA RODEO: 60TH ANNIVERSARY 9th - 12th CUNNAMULLA FELLA FESTIVAL 24th - 26th CAMOOWEAL DROVERS CAMP FESTIVAL 24th - 26th BLACKALL 150th CELEBRATIONS 24th - 2nd September MITCHELL CAMEL & PIG RACES 25th WINDORAH INTERNATIONAL YABBY RACES 29th BIRDSVILLE RACES 31st - 1st September
SEPTEMBER
CHARLEVILLE BILBY FESTIVAL 8th - 9th
OCTOBER
LAKE MOONDARRA FISHING CLASSIC 26th - 28th
For more information and holiday deals, visit
OUTENBSALACNKD
QUE TURES EVEN .au
and.com queensl outback
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ou can find delicious produce and fine cuisine across Queensland all year round, but there’s nothing like a festival to ignite the appetite. Bringing food lovers, chefs, farmers and producers together in one space to sip, salivate and sample, a festival is the perfect way to spend a day, a weekend or a week.
SCENIC RIM EAT LOCAL WEEK Brisbane, June 30-July 8 eatlocalweek.com.au WHAT TO EXPECT: For one mouthwatering week in winter, the people who produce food and wine across the Scenic Rim open their arms and farms to the world. It’s all about farm gates, eating alfresco and indulging in incredible local produce as you experience the reality of rural life from Beechmont to Kalbar and Rathdowney to Tamborine Mountain. Held during the school holidays, Eat Local Week includes a range of experiences from hands-on activities for families to exclusive long-table dining events. The Scenic Rim region is about an hour’s drive from Brisbane and the Gold Coast, and its edible bounty is prodigious, built on the back of generations of careful farming on the fertile alluvial soil. The Winter Harvest Festival at Aratula on 16 YOUR PERFECTNEXT
Save the date, it’s food festival season. Kerry Heaney explores three events that will satisfy every foodie’s appetite for flavour and fun
Taste the passion July 7 is the week’s signature event. It’s a feast of music, eating, cooking demonstrations, farm fun and oldfashioned country hospitality. SIGNATURE PRODUCE: Where to begin? The Scenic Rim’s abundance includes fruit and vegetables, wines, beef, beer, dairy and gourmet products
such as olives, cheeses, jams and relishes. Enjoy the flavours at a long lunch set in a paddock, learn how organic mushrooms are produced or find out how a certified organic egg farm works as Eat Local Week showcases the Scenic Rim lifestyle. At the Winter Harvest Festival, city
folk get the opportunity to meet local producers who rarely find their way to the big smoke, says Brenda Fawdon, resident and author of Eat Local: Food, Farming and Conversation in the Scenic Rim. “You’ll enjoy good coffee, carrot beer and bread, camel milk feta, green and orange heirloom tomatoes and some of the best macadamia nuts I’ve eaten,” Brenda says. “Look for Tommerup’s Dairy Farm cheese, Rathlogan Grove olives, Tamborine Mountain free-range eggs, freshwater crayfish and Dewar honey.” DON’T MISS: The Winter Harvest Festival Tractor Pulling Competition, in which teams pit themselves against a tractor. Country fun at its best.
REGIONAL FLAVOURS SOUTH BANK Brisbane, July 21-22 regionalflavours.com.au WHAT TO EXPECT: Sunshine on a plate, that’s what you’ll find at the 10th annual Regional Flavours, Queensland’s most popular free food and wine festival. Spilling across the rolling lawns and pathways of South Bank Parklands in Brisbane over one indulgent weekend, this festival combines appearances by Connecting with the land at Scenic Rim Eat Local Week, left and above.
DON’T MISS: Alastair advises doing a little research before you arrive to maximise your tasting time. “It’s a huge ‘one-stop shop’ giving you immediate access to the best ingredients. One caveat, plan your visit. There is much to see and do, so check the program and dig in.”
NOOSA FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Sunshine Coast, May 17-20 noosafoodandwine.com.au
celebrity chefs and industry experts with activities for kids and cooking demonstrations. Brisbane chef Alastair McLeod, a long-time Regional Flavours advocate, says first-time visitors will be wowed by the size of the event. “Apart from the Great Wall of China, it must be one of the few things you can see from space,” he jokes. “Upwards of 80,000 people descend on South Bank to celebrate the farmers, fishers and growers of Queensland. It makes you consider where your produce comes from and how you shop. It’s a telling indication of our interest in provenance.” SIGNATURE PRODUCE: Regional producers from around the state come together for this event, demonstrating the amazing variety and quality of Queensland’s bounty. With more than 80 stalls packed with cheese, chocolate, jam, cakes, fruit and wine, you’re not going to be hungry for long at the Marketplace producer market. Grab a spot on the lawn and tuck into wine from the Granite Belt, beer from Brisbane, peanuts from South Burnett, cheese from the Scenic Rim and beef from the Southern Downs.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Stunning natural surrounds, abundant regional produce and a sprinkling of Noosa glamour make this event a favourite with foodies across the country. One of Australia’s best-known food destinations, Noosa knows how to celebrate in style. This year’s festival will feature more than 35 events over four days including tipi tent dining on the beach, hinterland food trails and gourmet dinners hosted by top chefs such as George Calombaris and Christine Manfield. The Festival Village in Noosa Lions Park on Saturday and Sunday is the place to see cooking demonstrations, sample wines and taste dishes from some of the region’s best restaurants. Celebrity chef and author Peter Kuruvita calls Noosa home and when not travelling the world creating television programs, he rattles the pans at Noosa Beach House at Sofitel Noosa Pacific Resort. Peter is full of praise for Noosa’s “hidden food experiences”. “On the weekends, I love starting the day with an early family surf followed by a trip to the farmers’ market for the week’s veg, a freshpressed sugar cane juice and breakfast roti,” he says.
SIGNATURE PRODUCE: With the sea to the east and the pristine hinterland to the west, it’s no surprise that the Sunshine Coast has become a dining epicentre. Blessed with an array of micro-climates, the region produces everything from coffee and feijoas to mushrooms and heirloom tomatoes. Expect to find a mouthwatering selection of local products and producers at the Noosa Festival Village. You can also enjoy lunches and dinners held over the festival’s four days at restaurants located from the beachfront to the hinterland’s ridge tops. The sweet, delicate flavour of local spanner crab will be on the menu when David Rayner of Thomas Corner Eatery teams up with Jason Simpson from Fraser Isle Spanner Crab for a dinner tagged The Chef and the Fisherman. David relocated to Noosa 18 years ago and is expert at making local produce shine. His second event at this year’s festival is a lunch sharing the remarkable journey of Ian Douglas from The Lime Caviar Company and the pearl-like fruits of the finger lime.
“Finger limes are a relatively newly discovered product that comes with a fair amount of punch,” David says. He encourages visitors to attend the cooking demonstrations in the Festival Village. “The demonstrations are sure to be a highlight. They’re an amazing opportunity for the public to come face-to-face with high-end professional chefs who run some of the best restaurants in Australia. They’re also great for getting cooking tips that you can use at home.” DON’T MISS: The brewery trails are a hot tip for this year’s festival, taking in visits to three of the latest microbreweries to join the region’s thriving craft beer scene. “The hinterland is becoming a hotspot for breweries,” Peter says. n
Clockwise from left: Sampling local produce at Regional Flavours; Alastair McLeod; tipi tents at Noosa Main Beach; Peter Kuruvita. >> Find your perfect next gourmet getaway at queensland.com
YOUR PERFECTNEXT 17
Escape to Eden With local chefs pointing the way, Kerry Heaney embraces autumn by taking an invigorating national park walk followed by a delicious seasonal meal
T
he heady scent of eucalyptus, the strident crack of the whipbird’s call and the gentle burble of a creek tumbling over mossy stones; it’s all waiting for those who venture to south-east Queensland’s glorious national parks. In the cooler days of autumn, when the sun’s gaze softens and cloud-free blue skies stretch to the horizon, a scenic drive and a gentle bush trek followed by a relaxing meal of premium local produce should be on your menu. Start in the mountainous landscape of the Great Dividing Range, where a drive through Cunningham’s Gap, on the cusp of the Scenic Rim, offers endless vistas of forested hills and lush valleys, with views back to the distant coast. Just west of the Gap, you’ll find Spicers Peak Lodge. Minh Le, head chef of The Peak restaurant, likes to work up an appetite hiking up Mt Cordeaux in Main Range National Park, about a 45-minute drive from his kitchen. “It takes around two-and-ahalf hours to reach the top of Mt Cordeaux, but once you get there, the view makes it all worth it. It’s great to look out onto the rich and fertile lands that provide our lodge with such wholesome produce,” Minh says. “At Spicers Peak Lodge, we use tomatoes, strawberries and herbs from our market garden along with barnyard quail from Pittsworth, on 18 YOUR PERFECTNEXT
Toowoomba’s outskirts, and Tillari Pork, a rare breed of pork sourced from the Warwick area. “The menu changes every six weeks to reflect what produce the region has on offer.” Tap into a local secret from Bev Ruskey of Spring Creek Mountain Café when exploring Southern Queensland Country by car. Bev says the Mt Lindesay Road to Stanthorpe from her café is perfect for a leisurely spin. “My favourite view is from the café’s front veranda,” Bev says. “You just can’t beat it. Always changing, so you never get tired of it, this is one of south-east Queensland’s best views.” As for cuisine, winter bounty is a highlight of the Spring Creek menu. Even if you don’t count yourself a lover of Brussels sprouts, you’ll want
seconds when you try Bev’s version of this winter favourite. Steamed and tossed with butter and diced, crispy bacon, all sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts, they’re a knockout. Another favourite is a slow braise of Killarney beef with freshly dug potatoes from Mal and Helen Smith’s nearby farm on the café lunch menu. And you can work it all off with a hike up to Browns Falls. “Rock hop across the creek and walk to the top to be greeted by a beautiful waterfall and swimming pools. The pools can be cold even in the middle of summer,” Bev says. Closer to the coast, you can immerse yourself in the beauty of the Sunshine Coast hinterland while at Glass on Glasshouse, where floor-toceiling glass walls throw the focus firmly on the views. Feeling energetic? Pull on your hiking boots and scale one or more of the craggy peaks in the Glass House Mountains National Park. Grant Attwood and Darrell Tucker, who operate Glass on Glasshouse and The Lookout Café, say their favourite walk is to Ngungun, the sixth-tallest of the Glass House Mountains. “It takes us about 40 minutes to get to the top, winding our way up through the lush bush, which keeps us cool. At the top you are rewarded with the most outstanding views,” Grant says. The pair create their menu with a focus on local produce, like the Auswana coffee which is sustainably grown, processed and roasted just up the road at Bracalba. “We have over 100 different varieties of mango trees, and during the season we are everything mango.
From top: Glass on Glasshouse; fresh scones with jam and cream at Spring Creek Mountain Café; Spicers Peak Lodge head chef Minh Le. The house speciality is mango cheesecake,” Grant says. “Given we are also in the heart of pineapple country, we source local pineapples, melons and any other fruit as it comes into season for cottage breakfast provisions.” When they take a break, Grant and Darrell like to drive to Peachester along Old Gympie Rd. “It’s so pretty away from the hustle and bustle and you also get up close with Mt Coonowrin which is also a favourite. We also love the view from The Lookout just up the road. You can see all the mountains that make up the Glass House Mountains and right out to the coast. It is magical at sunset.” n spicersretreats.com; springcreekcottages.com.au; glassonglasshouse.com.au; npsr.qld.gov.au
>> Find your perfect next mountain peak at queensland.com
This Autumn, head to Southern Queensland Country for a change
Experience Australia’s best live events
MAY BRISBANE Patricia Piccinini: Curious Affection
MACKAY REGION Mackay City Auto Group North Queensland Games 5 – 7 May SUNSHINE COAST Noosa Food & Wine Festival 17 – 20 May
JUN BRISBANE
FRASER COAST
Qantas Wallabies v Ireland
Mary Poppins Festival
9 Jun
29 Jun – 8 Jul
24 Mar – 5 Aug GOLD COAST Blues on Broadbeach Music Festival 17 – 20 May
GOLD COAST Cooly Rocks On 6 – 10 Jun
GLADSTONE REGION Captain Cook 1770 Festival 25 – 27 May
JUL
BRISBANE Quandamooka Festival 1 Jul – 30 Sep
BRISBANE
Gold Coast Marathon
Scenic Rim Eat Local Week
30 Jun – 1 Jul
30 Jun – 8 Jul
Watpac Townsville 400
BUNDABERG NORTH BURNETT
TV Week Logie Awards
Winterfeast
1 Jul
6 – 15 Jul CAPRICORN REGION Rockhampton River Festival 13 – 15 Jul
TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND
6 – 8 Jul
OUTBACK QUEENSLAND Birdsville Big Red Bash 10 – 12 Jul
Cairns Indigenous Art Fair 13 – 15 Jul GOLD COAST Groundwater Country Music Festival
SUNSHINE COAST Queensland Garden Expo 13 – 14 Jul
27 – 29 Jul
AUG Jumpers & Jazz in July
GOLD COAST
TOWNSVILLE NORTH QUEENSLAND OUTBACK QUEENSLAND Vision Splendid Outback Film Festival 29 Jun – 7 Jul
GOLD COAST
SOUTHERN QUEENSLAND COUNTRY
TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND Cairns Airport Adventure Festival 6 – 10 Jun
THE WHITSUNDAYS
SUNSHINE COAST Velothon Sunshine Coast 20 – 22 Jul
19 – 29 Jul Event, dates and venues are subject to change without notice. Please see queensland.com/events for the latest listings.
OUTBACK QUEENSLAND Boulia Camel Races 20 – 22 Jul
TOWNSVILLE NORTH QUEENSLAND Australian Festival of Chamber Music 27 Jul – 4 Aug TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND Reef to Reef 9 – 12 Aug
Whitsunday Reef Festival 2 – 5 Aug
See the full events calendar at queensland.com/events
A close encounter with a humpback at Hervey Bay
Humpback heaven In the calm waters of Hervey Bay, Jennifer Ennion meets the migrating marine giants who drop into one of the world’s great whale nurseries every year
I
t’s called whale watching, but during any excursion to view these majestic mammals in Queensland’s Hervey Bay, it’s usually the humans who find themselves under inspection. Forget scanning the water’s surface for glimpses of the mighty creatures; in this shallow, temperate whale playground, they’ll come right up to your tour boat, look you in the eye and put on a performance to remember, with acrobatic displays, tail-slapping, diving and singing. It’s playful antics such as these that have resulted in the region being one of only three locations under consideration for Whale Heritage Site status by the World Cetacean Alliance. Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service principal ranger Alan Dyball says Hervey Bay is an exceptional place to see thousands of whales each July-November season. “Hervey Bay is really special because it’s a declared marine park and internationally important wetland, and it’s edged by a World Heritage area,” Alan says. That would be the world’s largest sand island, Fraser Island, which has been World Heritage-listed for 25 years. It acts as a barrier to rough seas 22 YOUR PERFECTNEXT
and predators, creating a calm and protected bay for the whales on their southward migration to Antarctica. With a deepest point of 20m, the bay is a haven for mothers to nurse their calves and for juveniles to play. “Hervey Bay is crucial for the humpback, which is a vulnerable, recovering species,” Alan says. “It’s the most important nursery stop on the southern journey of the eastern Australian group of humpbacks.” About 30 per cent of whales on this annual migration go into the bay to fatten up their calves for the long journey back to Antarctica; without the energy and blubber gained during this stopover, the young whales wouldn’t survive the journey. This break is also an opportunity for mothers to teach their calves behaviours such as breaching and slapping – all to the joy of tourists. The whales visit between July and November and the Tasman Venture’s resident “whale whisperer”, interpretative guide Vicki Neville, says that during the season, close encounters with the whales are all but guaranteed. “On average, we know each
“Quite often we get whales checking people out because they’re really inquisitive and curious” Vicki Neville, above whale stays three to five days and because of that stopover, it makes for awesome whale watching,” she says. “They’re very relaxed and quite
often we get them coming to the boats and checking people out because they’re really inquisitive and curious.” The spy-hopping behaviour is when the whales bring their eyes close to the surface to have a look at all the tourists waving at them. “It’s something that doesn’t happen at too many places around the world,” Vicki says. For families, Hervey Bay offers plenty of choice when it comes to picking a whale watching experience to suit children’s needs, with quarter-, half- and full-day tours available. The protected bay also ensures a memorable, safe and comfortable animal encounter for the youngest members of your clan. “Because of the calm conditions in the bay, you don’t get a lot of rough weather,” Vicki says. Best of all, sightings in Hervey Bay are guaranteed by most operators during the southern migration. “We’ve always guaranteed sightings in Hervey Bay, because we know that the whales religiously come into the bay year after year,” Vicki says. “On any given day, there can be well over 100 of them.” Since whaling was banned in 1963, the population of humpbacks visiting Australian waters has experienced a remarkable recovery. “After whaling stopped in Queensland, there were only 400 to 800 whales in the eastern group,” Alan Dyball says. “Now, there are an estimated 30,000, so in the 2018 season, we expect about 10,000 of those whales to come into Hervey Bay.” Queensland’s other whalewatching hotspots include the Gold Coast, Whitsundays, Sunshine Coast and Tropical North Queensland. Many operators now go beyond classic whale watching tours to include ‘swimming with the whales’ experiences (when weather and water conditions allow). In Hervey Bay, Tasman Venture allows passengers to hop in the water while hanging off a rope that’s attached to their tender, while at Blue Dolphin Marine Tours, passengers can lie on a semi-submerged platform in their snorkelling gear. n tasmanventure.com.au; bluedolphintours.com.au
>> Find your perfect next whale encounter at queensland.com
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