CAMPBELL’S SOUP CANS—a simple image that allowed an expression of modern culture at the time. Andy Warhol’s painting became an icon of the pop art movement in the 1960s. The vivid tones, pure lines and crisp edges continue to captivate audiences at the Museum
FIRST ASCENTS of 2009
EMERGENCE
BY JAMES MORRIS
of Modern Art in New York. It is these same features that are sought on a new boulder problem in the Castle Hill Basin. Although these artworks will not be displayed in a gallery or sold for millions at a New York auction, they are making a statement. Castle Hill keeps revealing new, challenging lines in an area that people have been climbing at for decades. Two thousand and nine is proving to be a year of discovery and motivation for first ascents in this modern style: bold, technically challenging, involved, pure and beautiful. Teamwork and group tactics are perhaps the reason why these first ascents are so special. All aspects of the process become more exciting and enjoyable with a group of enthusiastic people; starting with the endless search for lines, collaborating ideas and miming possible sequences, to cleaning and working the problem and culminating with the send. The following photographs illustrate this process and showcase the problems of the highest quality that have emerged this year.
Weapon Omega (V11) Captain Marvel Project (P)
Flock Hill Climber: Derek Thatcher f5.0 1/250 sec
Flock Hill Climber: Zachary Orme f5.6 1/400 sec
Those who speak most of progress measure it by quantity and not by quality [George Santayana]
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Tijuana Bottle Rocket Climber: Justin Wood
THE CLIMBER ISSUE 69, SPRING 2009
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Doctor Manhattan (V9)
Flock Hill Climber: Brian Capps f5.6 1/250 sec This problem was brushed in 2008 and was tried off and on since then with a sequence involving a long move to a ‘credit card’ crimp. New eyes fell upon the problem in 2009—uncovering a new sequence, with which it was sent first try. This was a good example of how a crew with a different background can improve efficiency.
Washing the holds on a new problem is the best method for removing the moss and dust from the pores of the rock; it is essential for friction problems. Developing sequences requires vision and creativity— teamwork is utilised and there are no closed projects!
Insight, I believe, refers to the depth of understanding that comes by setting experiences - yours and mine, familiar and exotic, old and new—side by side, [and] learning by letting them speak to one another.
Mortality Sequence (V9)
Flock Hill Climber: Zachary Orme f14.0 1/20 sec One of the most striking features at Flock Hill. This problem was originally attemped as a dyno, starting to the right—until a series of dimples and ripples were washed that provide an alternative sequence. These features are barely good enough to hold—some subtle body positions are required to make use of them.
Powder Monkey (V9)
Wuthering Heights Climber: Zachary Orme f2.8 1/1250 sec Wuthering Heights produces yet another problem with grandeur, on the same boulder as the intimidating Stackhouse and Hangman; Powder Monkey requires commitment and accuracy for the first move dyno to a split-finger pocket.
It is in our lives and not our word that our religion must be read. [Thomas Jefferson]
[Mary Catherine Bateson]
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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 69, SPRING 2009
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The successful warrior is the average man, with laser-like focus. [Bruce Lee]
Doc. Holiday (V8)
Teapot Boulders Climber: Thomas Hoyle f2.8 1/2000 sec
Hume Roof (V11)
Flock Hill Climber: Zachary Orme f2.8 1/2500 sec A proud line invoving small crimps, rounded slopers and a sidepull jug. David Hume brushed this in 2003 and it had not seen much action until this year, when it went down reasonably quickly thanks to excellent conditions and psyche!
Acapulco (V11)
Flock Hill Climber: Derek Thatcher f4.5 1/400 sec Named after the cliff divers! Moderate technical climbing leads to a climax that consists of a sideways lunge into a hole from a quarter pad crimp. After falling off the last move for a year, a new hold at the top was found on abseil, which proved to be the key. Many modern problems overseas involve mixing difficulty with height and the consequences of falling. Acapulco exists in this style, and Flock Hill has the potential for countless more like it. 30
THE CLIMBER ISSUE 69, SPRING 2009
THE CLIMBER ISSUE 69, SPRING 2009
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