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A CELEBRATION OF BRITISH INDIAN FOOD

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Anjum Anand | Cyrus Todiwala | Vivek Singh | Chetna Makan

INSIDE:

Keralan Roast Chicken Curry

OUR BRITISH CURRY TOUR

Comforting Japanese Katsu Authentic Lamb Biryani

WHAT TO COOK & WHERE TO EAT NOW

How To Cook Sri Lankan

£3.99 | JAN/FEB 18

YO U R H O M E M A D E INDIAN FEAST...

INDIAN BREAD AT HOME Naan, chapatis & prawn parathas

CURRY COMPANIONS Expert beer, wine & gin pairings

15 AMAZING VEGGIE DISHES

Coconut dahl, sweet potato curry & more

GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:30 Page 2

Welcome to Great British Food Traditionally new year issues are all about diets and healthy eating – but with the cold of late winter approaching it seems churlish to fully commit to a month of salads and green juices. Yes, some of us may have indulged in a few too many mince pies and turkey sandwiches over Christmas, but that doesn't mean we're not still craving a little comfort food. And curry is the perfect solution! Unlike the takeaway version, homemade curry can be light, fresh and, yes, healthy too!

That heady combination of rich, aromatic liquor and soft, fallingapart meat or perfectly cooked veg – well, there's nothing like it.

Recreate curry house favourites like chicken jalfrezi and lamb biryani with our foolproof recipes on p.16

That's why we've dedicated this special issue of GBF to all things hot and spicy – from familiar dishes inspired by the great British curry house on p.16, to authentic Indian street food (p.26), and a flavourful feast from Sri Lanka (p.81). You'll also find stunning sides, homemade breads for soaking up those lovely curry juices and all kinds of drink pairings to take your meals to the next level.

In many ways we Brits have adopted curry as our own; on p.32 we explore the past and present of Indian food in the UK – speaking to the inspiring chefs ensuring it has a very vibrant future. Looking for some restaurants to add to your wishlist? Jump to p.66 for our pick of the exciting eateries you really should visit in 2018.

Have a delicious month!

Natasha

This refreshing Thai-style lime and coconut granita on p.96 is the perfect post-curry pud!

Editor natasha@aceville.co.uk

MEET THE EXPERTS

THE HAIRY BIKERS

CHETNA MAKAN

ANJUM ANAND

SI AND DAVE TELLS US ALL ABOUT THEIR FAVOUITE PLACES TO ENJOY A CURRY AND A PINT ON P.22

THE INDIAN COOK AND FOOD WRITER EXPLAINS HOW TO PERFECT HER FAVOURITE INDIAN STREET FOOD ON P.26

SPICE EXPERT ANJUM PUTS A DELICIOUSLY EXOTIC TWIST ON EVERYDAY FAMILY RECIPES ON P.56

www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

Ditch the takeaw ay and make our delicious homem ade naan bread and chapattis on p.48

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Contents

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J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 20 18 Foodie Features 22 THE HAIRY BIKERS' CURRY ODYSSEY We caught up with Si King and Dave Myers to discover why they're such big fans of the nation's favourite dish 25 VALENTINE'S KITCHEN Our intrepid columnist tells us why some of the of the world's best curries can be found off the beaten track 32 THE EVOLUTION OF CURRY Anna Blewett documents the changing face of this delicious cuisine 36 QUENCH YOUR THIRST! The best wine, beer and gins to pair with spicy food 44 SEASONAL HERO Forced rhubarb is back! Here's how to cook this succulent fruit 66 ALL THE SPICE We reveal the best places in the UK to devour flavour-packed South Asian grub 79 TRUE BLUE Our pick of the creamiest, veiniest and tastiest British blue cheeses in the shops 86 THE GIN CROWD 15 British artisan gins you need to know about in 2018

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91 A-Z OF SPICE Gareth May compiles a dictionary of compelling spices and herbs with the help of Indian chef Hari Ghotra 94 SWEET, SOUR AND SPICY Famed London chef Sebby Holmes' recipes put a modern spin on traditional Thai cuisine 98 THE SPICE IS RIGHT! From time-saving curry kits to delicious spiced snacks, we've got your Indian food cravings covered 103 CULTURE CLUB From dairy free to goat's milk, we share some of our current favourite yogurts 104 YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO...

KITCHEN KIT Revamp your home for the new year with our selection of ceramics, gadgets and more 113 DISCOVER SUSSEX Sussex is a haven for foodies, particularly when it comes to English wine, cheese, chocolate and cosy pubs 118 TOP TABLES The best restaurant, pub and hotel recommendations – tried and tested by the GBF team

www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

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19 22

Tasty Recipes 16 CURRY HOUSE FAVOURITES Blogger Dan Toombs shows us how to make top takeaway dishes at home 26 CHAI, CHAAT & CHUTNEY Chetna Makan brings Indian street food to life with a selection of vibrant recipes inspired by her travels 38 COMFORT IN A BOWL These straightforward Japanese recipes from former MasterChef winner Tim Anderson makes Japanese cuisine accessible for all 48 INDIAN BREAD MADE EASY Moreish Indian breads that are simple to make 51 DELICIOUS IN 45 MINUTES These warming curries take less than 45 minutes to prep and cook!

55 7 WAYS WITH... MANGO CHUTNEY This sweet and spicy condiment may be a curry staple, but it's also great for jazzing up leftovers 56 SPICE THINGS UP From cheese toasties to crispy roast pork, chef Anjum Anand reveals how to enhance familiar dishes 60 SPICE UP YOUR LIFE! These make ahead blends and pastes will have you rustling up authentic curries in no time

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72 A BIT ON THE SIDE From fragrant rices to refreshing salads, here are some of our favourite curry accompaniments 81 A TASTE OF SRI LANKA Characterised by its fragrant spices, fiery curries and liberal use of coconut, Sri Lankan cuisine is utterly unique, says chef Emily Dobbs

Tempting Ideas 9 THIS MONTH Products, news, recipes, reviews and more 76 GREAT BRITISH FOOD READER SURVEY Tell us what you think and you could win one of ten professional quality Rocktanium sauté pans from Stellar, worth £110!

125 THE BIG FOODIE GIVEAWAY We have weekends away and food-filled hampers up for grabs this month!

126 COVER RECIPE Make our creamy Keralan-style roast chicken curry tonight!

130 IN THE KITCHEN WITH JIMMY DOHERTY TV presenter Jimmy Doherty may have eaten his way around the world, but he loves nothing more than a traditional curry and fish and chips

S U B S C R I B E T O DAY !

WORTH

£40

p.64

TO RECEIVE A JUDGE STICK BLENDER

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R E C IPE IND E X

Recipe List From simple light lunches to tasty seasonal suppers and show-stopping puddings

Starters, Snacks & Sides

38 The Best Edamame 55 Lentil & Mango Chutney Soup 55 Cheddar, Stilton & Chutney Toastie 72 Carrot, Cashew & Sultana Salad with Cumin Seeds 72 Gujarati Carrot Salad 72 Tangy Tamarind, Carrot & Red Cabbage Salad 72 Quick Spinach & Potatoes 72 Portobello Mushrooms with Roasted Rich Tomatoes 72 Cumin Rice

Mains

Great British

FOOD Editor Natasha Lovell-Smith 01206 508619 natasha@aceville.co.uk

p.16

Group Advertising Manager Daniel Lodge 01206 505951

Meat & Poultry

16 Stewed Lamb 16 Chicken Jalfrezi 16 Lamb Bhuna 16 Lamb Biryani 38 Katsu Curry 38 Curry Udon 51 Chicken Massaman Curry 51 Chicken Rogan Josh with Red Lentils 51 Lamb & Apricot Biryani 55 Easy Chicken Curry 56 Curried Sausages & Spinach 56 Goan-Style Roast Pork Belly 81 Roast Spiced Chicken with Brown Sugar, Limes & Coconut Milk 94 Aromatic Beef Braised in Coconut Cream and Ginger 126 Keralan-Style Roast Chicken Curry

Fish & Seafood

16 Kolkata (Calcutta) Prawns 44 Rhubarb, New Potato & Mackerel Salad 48 Prawn Balti Stuffed Parathas 94 Crab & Shrimp Pad Thai with Chilli Oil

Vegetarian

26 Plain Dosa 26 Onion Samosas 26 Baigan Bhaja 38 Japanese Curry Rice 48 Cheese & Fresh Chutney Jaffle 51 Sweet Potato & Chickpea Curry 55 Chutney Glazed Winter Squash 81 Plain Egg Hoppers 81 Dhal 81 Egg Curry

Puddings & Bakes

26 Phirni 44 Rhubarb & Almond Tart 44 Rhubarb, Pomegranate & Ginger Sponge Pudding 44 Rhubarb & Lemon Fool 6 /

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Deputy Editor Kayleigh Rattle 01206 508623 kayleigh.rattle@aceville.co.uk

Advertising Manager Nathan Kliber 01206 505424 nathan.kliber@aceville.co.uk Senior Account Manager Patrick Weatherley 01206 505955 patrick.weatherley@aceville.co.uk Group Editor Charlotte Smith 01206 508615 Art Editor Lloyd Oxley

p.38 48 Pizza Stone Naan Bread 48 Coriander Chapatis 55 Mango Chutney & Goat's Cheese Tarts 55 Chutney & Cheddar Scones 96 Lime Granita with Fresh Pineapple, Coconut Cream & Sea Salt 96 Grilled Bananas & Tamarind Caramel

Designers Adam Barford Luke Rogers Publishing Director Helen Tudor 01206 505970 Photography CliQQ Photography 01206 855477 Subscriptions 01795 418672 Circulation Mick Orrin 01206 505912

Drinks

Accounts Joy Loveday 01206 505914

Sauces & Pastes

Published by Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

44 Rhubarb Vodka 55 Mango Lassi

9 Cucumber Raita 9 Mango Chutney 9 Lime Pickle 17 Base Curry Sauce 17 Garlic & Ginger Paste 17 Mixed Powder 26 Coconut Chutney 26 Tomato Chutney 26 Coriander & Spinach Chutney 56 Tangy Coriander Chutney 60 Sri Lankan Thool 60 Caribbean Jerk Paste 60 Thai Massaman Curry Paste 60 Chilli Butter 72 Roasted Almond & Coriander Chutney

p.27 Newstrade Sales MarketForce 0203 148 3300 Next Issue on sale: 1st February 2018

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:30 Page 8

N E WS | JA N / FE B

This Month What to eat, drink, cook, discover and more KEEP CALM AND CURRY ON! A Friday night takeaway isn't complete without a pile of poppadoms and something delicious to dip them in. Here's how to rustle up some of our most loved condiments at home...

3 Delightful Dips

1

Cucumber Raita Grate half a cucumber, squeeze out any

3

Lime Pickle Cut 8 limes in wedges, sprinkle with

excess juice and transfer to a bowl. Season

salt and leave for 2 days. Heat 2 tbsps

with sea salt and cracked black pepper and

mustard seeds in 1 tbsp oil in a hot pan

stir in 150g yogurt and a small handful of

for 30 seconds then add 3 cloves finely

mint leaves, finely chopped. Squeeze in the

chopped garlic, a 2cm piece of finely

juice of half a lemon and serve.

chopped ginger, 2 tsps ground cumin,

2

2 tsps ground coriander and ½ tsp chilli

Fresh Mango Chutney Combine 4 diced mangoes, ½ diced

red onion, 3 cloves garlic, a chopped green chilli, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp mustard seeds and 3 tbsps finely diced ginger in a pan on a medium-low heat. Stir, add a dash of

powder. Stir in the limes, 2 tsps brown sugar, 2 tbsps white wine vinegar and 100ml water. Simmer for approximately 15 minutes.

white wine vinegar and leave to cook for 25 minutes.

Ingredients from ocado.com; green enamel plates and bowls from postcardshome.co.uk

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This month’s

WISH LIST “There's nothing like starting the year with a set of lovely new kitchen products – try these for starters!”

This plate looks almost too good to eat off, so why not hang it on your wall instead? Bloomingville Palm Print Ceramic Dinner Plate, £15, cultfurniture.com

KAYLEIGH RATTLE, DEPUTY EDITOR

Keep a record of your favourite recipes and shopping lists in this stylish planner. Foodie Journal Planner, £12, paperchase.co.uk

Update your 2018 kitchenware in one fell swoop.

Boho Sands 12 Piece Dining Set, £39, jdwilliams.co.uk

The ideal mug for a large batch of warming hot chocolate. Ana Mug, £12, oliverbonas.com

It doesn't get much better than these quirky egg cups. Hubert & George Beard Egg Cup Set, £10, redcandy.co.uk

An eye-catching way to store your tea and coffee. Sainsbury's Home Ceramic Stackable Jar, £8, sainsburyshome.co.uk

Hang mugs, cutlery, recipes and more. Open Grid Kitchen Rack, £30, redcandy.co.uk

Swipe away any crumbs or spillages from your dinner table in an instant. National Trust Hedgehog Table Brush, £12, shop. nationaltrust.org.uk

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Marble and wood look great in any kitchen. Normann Copenhagen Pestle & Mortar, £65, amara.com

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N E WS | JA N / FE B

What,s new…

1. P&O Food Heroes 2018

If you're looking to book a culinary adventure with a difference, look no further than P&O Cruises who have launched a whole host of exciting foodie excursions for 2018 featuring a line-up of award-winning chefs and food icons including James Martin, Atul Kochhar, Eric Lanlard, Marco Pierre White and Olly Smith. From on-board cookery classes to gourmet shore excursions with the chefs themselves, there's guaranteed to be something for everyone.

All aboard! pocruises.com/ foodheroes

2. Tom on TV!

The world is a better place when Tom Kerridge is on our screens and the loveable chef will be returning to BBC Two this January. In conjunction with his new cookbook Tom Kerridge: Lose Weight For Good, the six-part series will see the Michelin star chef helping a group of dieters to rustle up some enticing low calorie recipes. Stay tuned!

Image Credit ©BBC

3. Spice up Your Life!

January is the ideal month for cooking warming one-pots and fragrant curries – and who wouldn't want to spend some time in the kitchen with this lovely crockery from John Lewis? The colourful range includes a tagine pot, pestle and mortar, wok, chopping board and salt cellar. From £18, johnlewis.com www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

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DIARY DATES BURNS NIGHT WITH THE GALVIN BROTHERS 25th January 2018 Celebrate Burns Night the Michelin way with plenty of whisky, poetry and haggis at Bistro de Luxe in Baker Street, London. galvinrestaurants.com FARMHOUSE BREAKFAST WEEK 22nd - 26th January 2018 Get involved with the national 'shake up your wake up' campaign and make breakfast the most important meal of your day.

VEGANUARY Across January More and more people are turning vegan – will you be joining in with the masses this month?

Best of British

We've always loved London's Liberty department store but we now have even more of a reason to visit since they've launched a mini food hall dedicated to artisan food and drink. They're now stocking over 50 products from 15 micro producers including seaweed from Wales, coffee from Yorkshire and a specially created Old Tom London gin distilled in Bermondsey. We can't wait to sample the range! libertylondon.com

Foodie Thermometer What’s Hot + GIN IN THE CITY

Londoners have always loved gin, but did you know the city is now home to 24 distilleries?

+ GOING GREEN

M&S has just launched a dedicated veggie range and many other supermarkets are following suit.

What’s Not Waste continues to be an issue. Why not ask for your takeaways to be placed in a reusable tiffin box instead?

- CHOCOLATE

According to recent research, more Brits would prefere to give up chocolate than cheese – it's a tough call if you ask us!

A TASTE OF BRITAIN A recent study by online catering marketplace Caterwings identified the UK's top foodie destinations as being London, Glasgow, Manchester, Brighton and Edinburgh, with the UK ranking 9th overall worldwide. Turn to p.113 for our guide to Brighton's foodie hotspots.

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What we’ve been drinking...

- TAKEAWAY PACKAGING

This newly launched gin from Twisting Spirits, a micro gin distillery from Oxfordshire, delicately blends hot copperdistilled gin with vapour-infused botanicals. Containing locally sourced douglas fir, it's incredibly refreshing and boasts flavours of pine and grapefruit. £40.52, masterofmalt.com

3 O F THE BEST… ALCO HO L ALTERNATIVES

Whether you're the designated driver or embracing #dryjanuary, these delicious artisan tipples are a welcome alternative to the harder stuff.

Seedlip Spice 94, £26 for 70cl, tesco.com

Belvoir Shiraz without the Hangover, £2.99, ocado.com

Cotchel Apple Juice, eat17.co.uk

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:30 Page 13

Get involved!

Ask the W.I.

Do you have a cooking query you’d like to have answered by the W.I.? Email us at kayleigh.rattle@aceville.co.uk or contact us via the Great British Food social media channels

Each month we pose your pressing foodie questions to the W.I. Here they answer your new year queries...

Q: I'm looking to tighten my purse strings after a busy Christmas. What can I cook for my family that's healthy and filling but also relatively cheap? Stacey Oliver, via email A: One-pot casseroles and curries are a good idea at this time of year as they're satisfying and warming but also offer a pleasant break from the rich food eaten over Christmas. It's also a versatile method of cooking as you can use any combination of meat, vegetables and pulses and vary herbs and spices to suit your tastes. If you’re looking to cut down on meat, lentils are an excellent source of protein as well as being very cheap and filling.

Q: I've never cooked with Jerusalem artichokes before but I've seen lots of them in

the shops. What can I use them in?

Gary Jones, via email A: Jerusalem artichokes have a similar texture to potatoes and other root vegetables, but they have a slightly nuttier taste. They can be used in many dishes as an alternative to potatoes and parsnips and like other root vegetables they roast particularly well. Why not start by simply roasting them in rapeseed oil, garlic and thyme, or even scatter them around roast chicken to cook in the juices? Once you get used to the flavour and texture you could start being a bit more adventurous.

Q: I've never made a curry from scratch as I've always relied on ready-made pastes. What's the easiest curry to make for beginners?

Alison Ryland, via email A: It’s a myth that making curry from scratch is a difficult and lengthy process. As long as you have all the ingredients to hand it’s actually very easy and tastes so much better than anything from a jar. A chicken korma can take less than half an hour to cook and is delicious with rice and fresh coriander, all you need is chicken breasts, garlic, turmeric, cream and a couple of spices.

Easy Peasy We're already counting down the days to spring and screen-printing lifestyle brand Thornback & Peel have certainly made it easy for us with their new, vibrant range. The Pea Pod collection includes napkins, coasters and aprons, as well as deck chairs and tote bags, all made from 100% cotton and featuring a verdant herringbone pea pattern: we love! thornbackandpeel.co.uk

Find out more about the W.I. at thewi.org.uk.

TRIED & TESTED Each issue we trial the latest kitchen gadgets and cookware. This month Deputy Editor Kayleigh Rattle tests the De'Longhi ECP espresso coffee maker (£119.99, johnlewis.com) Admittedly, it can take me a while to wake up in the morning, so I couldn't wait to try out this espresso and cappuccino maker in the hope that it would add more bounce to my step. It was pretty straightforward to set up, but I'd recommend thoroughly reading the sizeable manual if you're really looking to fine-tune your barista skills. The machine itself is space economical and handily uses both pods and ground coffee. What's more, unlike other

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models I've tested, it's easy to take apart and the stainless steel exterior is easy to clean. There's also a gauge on the front to detect water levels but as this isn't obvious I would suggest regularly checking and refilling the water tank if you're planning on making more than a couple of drinks at a time. As for the end result, the coffee tastes fantastic, but I do still need to brush up on my milk frothing skills to make my cappuccinos look a little more artisan.

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N E WS | JA N U / FE B

MORE READS…

Tonic: Delicious & Natural Remedies to Boost Your Health by Tanita de Ruijt (£12.99, Hardie Grant Books) Transform store cupboard herbs and spices into tasty health-boosting tonics with this helpful read.

BOOK CORNER

The Hairy Bikers' Mediterranean Adventure by Si King & Dave Myers (£25, Seven Dials)

If you read one cookbook this month…

Anna Jones knows exactly how to elevate seasonal produce into show-stopping veggie centrepieces, as demonstrated

The much-loved duo are back with another batch of straightforward, seasonal and tasty recipes.

Turn to p.22 for an exclusive interview.

in her previous cookbooks. Her latest, The Modern Cook's Year, contains over 250 delicious vegetarian recipes including these beetroot and mustard fritters (pictured). Delicious!

The Modern Cook's Year by Anna Jones (£26, Fourth Estate)

YOUR SHOPPING ESSENTIALS

Kitchen Confidential: Vivek Singh

Higgidy Chorizo, Feta & Roasted Pepper Frittata, £4, tesco.com

John Ross Jr Scottish Smoked Trout, £6.49 for 200g, Waitrose stores

The Essential Ten Collection, Foodie Flavours, £34.99, foodieflavours.com

This month, we chat to celebrated chef and restaurateur Vivek Singh (viveksingh.co.uk) about his out of hours eating habits...

Which three ingredients are always in your fridge at home?

Eggs, green chillies and butter – this is what I use to rustle up my favourite green chilli omelette.

What's your favourite type of curry and why?

It changes with the season but at this time of the year it has to be a Rajasthani lamb and corn curry, which you can also find on our menu at Cinnamon Bazaar.

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What do you tend to cook at home?

It all depends on who I'm cooking for; if it's for me it might be a chicken and cheese toastie in the middle of the night, or if it's for my children it might be a Thai coconut chicken lemon soup.

What do you like to eat for breakfast?

I usually skip breakfast but if I have the time, me and my wife will have poha, a spiced breakfast dish made with rice flakes. It's a great way to start the day.

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CURRY HOUSE KITCHEN

Blogger Dan Toombs has made it his mission to uncover the secrets of the British curry house; his homemade curries taste just like a takeaway from your favourite local but take less time and money. Dig in!

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R E C I P E S | I N D I A N R E S TA U R A N T F O O D

THE PREP

These simple recipes make the base ingredients that will take your curries to the next level...

Base Curry Sauce Makes: 6 litres or enough for 22–24 servings Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 20 minutes “This smooth curry sauce ‘gravy’, more than any other ingredient, is what gives British Indian restaurant style curries their distinctive flavour and texture.

I like to describe the base curry sauce as a slow-cooked onion and vegetable stock” 2kg Spanish onions, roughly chopped 1 tsp salt 225g carrots, peeled and chopped 120g cabbage, chopped 100g red pepper, deseeded and diced 100g green pepper, deseeded and diced 1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes 9 tbsps garlic and ginger paste (see next recipe) 750ml rapeseed oil 3 tbsps garam masala 3 tbsps ground cumin 3 tbsps ground coriander 3 tbsps paprika 2 tbsps ground fenugreek 1 tbsp ground turmeric 1. Place the onions in a large 6-litre stockpot and top with the rest of the vegetables, tomatoes and garlic and ginger paste. Pour in the oil and about a litre of water.

Stir to coat and place the pot over medium high heat. Bring to a simmer and then reduce to the heat to low and simmer gently, covered for about 45 minutes.

2. Now add another 2 litres water and stir in the spices. Continue simmering for another 30 minutes. When the oil rises to the top and your veggies are soft, you’re ready to blend.

Carefully skim the seasoned oil off the top for use in your curries. It keeps indefinitely in an airtight container.

3. Using a hand-held blender, blend for about 4 minutes until the sauce is super smooth, with no chunks and not at all grainy.

This step can be done in a blender in batches, but it takes a lot more time. You will notice that the blended sauce, about 3 litres, is quite thick, perfect for storing in the fridge or freezing.

When you use it in your curries, you will need to double the volume with water, or until it is about the same thickness as full-fat milk. Use immediately or store in the fridge for up to 3 days or freeze in 750ml portions for up to 3 months.

4 tbsps curry powder 3 tbsps paprika 3 tbsps ground turmeric 1 tbsp garam masala 1. Mix all the ingredients together, store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place, and use as needed.

Stewed Lamb “Whether it's a low-cost Indian takeaway or an upmarket restaurant, the chefs will normally stew red meat for curries before service so that it is tender and ready to use. The reason for this is simple: if they didn’t, it would take too long to serve their delicious curries!”

Makes: 10 servings Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Garlic & Ginger Paste Makes: 15 generous tbsps 150g garlic, chopped 150g ginger, peeled and chopped 1. Place the garlic and ginger in a food processor or pestle and mortar and blend with just enough water to make a smooth paste. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days and use as needed.

Mixed Powder “I have to emphasize how important this recipe is. It’s one of the secret ingredients that makes British Indian restaurant curries what they are” Makes: 17 generous tbsps 3 tbsps ground cumin 3 tbsps ground coriander

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2 tbsps rapeseed oil 6 cloves 5 black cardamom or 10 green cardamom pods, lightly bruised 10 black peppercorns 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp coriander seeds 5cm piece of cinnamon stick 1 piece of mace 3 Indian bay leaves 2 large onions, finely chopped ½ tsp sea salt 2 tbsps ginger and garlic paste (see p.17) 1kg leg of lamb, cut into 2.5cm pieces (keep the bone if you have it) 2 tbsps mild paprika 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tbsp garam masala 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat until hot and beginning to bubble. Add the whole spices and bay leaves and stir for about 30 seconds, until your kitchen begins to fill with the delicious aroma of the frying spices, being careful not to burn them. Add the onions and stir to coat in the oil. Cook for about 5 minutes before adding the salt followed by the garlic and ginger paste. Fry for a further minute until the onions are soft and translucent.

2. Place the leg bone (if you have it) in the pan with the ground

“Jalfrezi curries are quick stir-fries that are usually served quite dry with lots of crunchy vegetables.

Of course, if you like more sauce, you’re in control of that one” 18 /

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spices and the meat. Brown the meat for a couple of minutes then pour in just enough spice stock or water to cover. Simmer for about 1–1 ¼. hours until the meat is good and tender. Allow the meat and cooking sauce to cool for use in your curries. The meat and cooking stock (remove the bone, if using) can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days and freeze well for up to 2 months.

THE CURRIES Chicken Jalfrezi Serves: 4 or more as part of a multi-course meal Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes 4 tbsps rapeseed oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 red pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced 3 green bird’s-eye chillies, roughly chopped 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander stalks 2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste (see p.17) 6 tbsps tomato purée 2 tbsps mixed powder (see p.17) 1 tsp chilli powder (optional) 500ml base curry sauce (see p.17), heated 700g diced chicken breast or thigh, browned in a pan 2 tomatoes, quartered 1 tsp dried fenugreek (methi) leaves 1 tsp garam masala Salt Fresh coriander leaves, chopped Green finger chillies, cut in half lengthways 1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat then add the sliced onion, pepper, green chillies and coriander stalks. Mix this all up in the pan and sauté until the vegetables are beginning to cook through but

are still crisp. Stir in the garlic and ginger paste and fry for about a minute. Add the tomato purée, mixed powder, chilli powder and about 250ml of the base curry sauce. This will come to an instant bubble. Add the chicken and the rest of the base curry sauce.

2. Let this simmer over a medium heat for about 5 minutes, without stirring unless it is obviously catching on the pan. If the sauce begins to caramelize around the edges of the pan, stir this back into the curry. Add more base sauce or stock if the sauce becomes too thick.

3. About 2 minutes before serving, add the quartered tomatoes and dried fenugreek leaves. When the tomatoes are cooked through but still crisp and you are happy with the consistency, season with salt to taste and sprinkle with the garam masala. Finish by garnishing with the chopped coriander leaves and sliced chillies.

Lamb Bhuna Serves: 4 or more as part of a multi-course meal Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes 3 tbsps ghee, rapeseed oil 1 small onion, finely chopped ¼ red pepper, deseeded and roughly chopped 2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste (see p.17) 2 tbsps finely chopped coriander stalks (from the bunch below) 125ml tomato purée 2 tbsp mixed powder (see p.17) 2 tbsp tandoori masala 500ml base curry sauce (see p.17), heated 800g pre-cooked stewed lamb, plus 250ml of its cooking stock, or more base sauce 2 tbsps Greek yoghurt Small bunch of coriander, leaves

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R E C I P E S | I N D I A N R E S TA U R A N T F O O D

finely chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper Juice of 1 or 2 limes Sliced red chilli, to serve 1. Heat the ghee or oil in a large pan over a medium-high heat.

When it is bubbling, add the onion and pepper and sizzle them in the oil for about 5 minutes until the onion is translucent and soft.

Stir in the garlic and ginger paste, and coriander stalks and stir these around in the oil for about 30 seconds. Add the tomato purée and, when it starts to bubble, stir in the mixed powder and tandoori masala, followed by 250ml of the base curry sauce.

2. Let this simmer for a couple of minutes, without stirring unless it is obviously catching on the pan.

Scrape any caramelized sauce at the edges of the pan back in.

Increase the heat to high and add the pre-cooked lamb and the rest of the sauce, with the stock. Let this bubble undisturbed until it reduces down to a thick sauce.

3. To finish, reduce the heat to medium and whisk in the yogurt 1 tbsp at a time. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Top with the fresh coriander and serve with a good squeeze of lime juice and/or some sliced red chilli, if you like.

Kacchi Lamb Biryani “The simple stir-fried biryanis served at most curry houses simply don’t compare to this slow-cooked kacchi biryani. I first tried it back in 2013 at Sheba on Brick Lane in London. It was so good I had to get the recipe! This is my take on their delicious and hugely popular dish” Serves: 6-8 Prepare: 20 minutes, plus overnight marinating Cook: 50 minutes

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3 onions, finely sliced and fried 1 leg of lamb, cut through the bone into 12 or more pieces For the marinade: 2 tbsps garlic and ginger paste (see p.17) 420g plain yogurt Juice of 2 lemons 2 fresh green chillies, roughly chopped 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tbsp garam masala ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground mace ½ tsp chilli powder 30g fresh coriander leaves, chopped 10g fresh mint leaves, chopped 200ml rapeseed oil For the rice: 2 tbsps sea salt 1 cinnamon stick 10 peppercorns

1 bay leaf 1 tbsp cumin seeds 500g aged basmati rice 3 tbsps rapeseed oil 60g fresh coriander leaves, chopped 20g fresh mint leaves, chopped 6 tbsps melted ghee Pinch of saffron threads infused with 300ml hot milk 1 tbsp rose water ½ tsp ground cumin Dried rose petals (optional) 1. Mix the marinade ingredients in a bowl with a quarter of the fried onions and the oil. Add the lamb and rub the marinade into it.

Cover and marinate overnight in the fridge.

2. To make the rice, when ready to cook, bring 1.5 litres water to a boil in a large pan. Add the salt, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, bay leaf, cumin seeds and rice, and simmer for 6 minutes. After the

6 minutes, remove half the rice from the water with a strainer and place in a small bowl. Cook the remaining rice for another minute and remove to a second bowl.

3. Now spoon about 3 tbsps of oil into a large, heavy-based saucepan and tip in the marinated meat and all of the marinade.

Spread the first batch of rice, including any whole spices over the lamb. Cover with half the remaining fried onions and half the chopped coriander and mint.

4. Add the second bowl of rice on top and then the remaining fried onions and herbs. Spoon the melted ghee over the top layer, followed by the saffron-infused milk, the rose water and a sprinkle of cumin powder. Scatter some dried rose petals on top, if using.

5. Make a soft dough with water and flour and run it around the top of the pan and secure the lid tightly on top. Heat the biryani over a high heat for a couple of minutes. When you hear it simmering, reduce the heat to very low and cook for about 40 minutes. Don’t lift the lid!

6. Take your biryani to the table and unseal the lid. Lift it and enjoy the amazing aroma. Stir the meat and serve.

Kolkata (Calcutta) Prawns “This recipe was inspired by a visit to my local curry house, Raj Bari in Yarm. I didn’t see the chefs making the dish while I was there, but they were nice enough to let meknow what went into it. I returned home and decided to make the curry all over again for my family. It was that good!”

Serves: 4 or more as part of a multi-course meal Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 20 minutes 500g raw tiger prawns, peeled and deveined

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R E C I P E S | I N D I A N R E S TA U R A N T F O O D

½ tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsps ghee or mustard oil 1 tsp black mustard seeds 3 green cardamom pods, lightly bruised 4 cloves 1 cinnamon stick 1 bay leaf 20 fresh curry leaves 2 shallots, finely chopped 2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste (see p.17) 1 fresh green chilli, halved lengthways and deseeded 2 tbsps coconut flour 400ml coconut milk Pinch of saffron threads ½ tsp paprika 1 tsp garam masala 1 tbsp finely chopped coriander Salt 1. Sprinkle the prawns with the turmeric and mix well. Heat the ghee or oil in a large frying pan or wok over a medium-high heat.

When hot, toss in the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, reduce the heat to medium and add the rest of the whole spices, bay leaf and curry leaves. Fry for 30 seconds then add the shallots and sauté for about 5 minutes, until translucent and soft.

2. Add the garlic and ginger paste and the fresh chilli, and stir to combine. Add the prawns and paprika and fry, stirring regularly until the prawns begin to turn pink. Stir in the coconut flour, coconut milk and saffron and simmer for a further few minutes so that the sauce thickens slightly and the prawns cook through.

To serve, stir in the garam masala, check for seasoning and add salt to taste. Top with the fresh coriander.

Recipes adapted from The Curry Guy By Dan Toombs (Quadrille, £12.99) Photography © Kris Kirkham

5 MINUTES WITH DAN TOOMBS The British curry house is an institution, why do we love them so much?

It’s comfort food. Curry house recipes were developed over the decades to please the palate of the general public. Mild curries were on offer for those who didn’t like the heat and ridiculously spicy curries were also put on the menus for those who wanted to prove they could take it! People are becoming much more adventurous when eating Indian food, but those classic British curries like chicken tikka masala and Madras will always be popular.

How does curry house cooking differ from what we do at home?

There is some essential preparation that needs to be done first. It isn’t difficult, but you really do need to make the mild base sauce used in most classic British curry recipes (see

p.17). The idea is to be able to serve the dish in about fifteen minutes from being ordered. Meat is pre-cooked so it only needs to be heated through in the sauce. It takes some getting used to because it's very different to how most authentic curries from India are prepared, but it is a lot of fun and very quick. I've actually made five completely different curries in ten minutes for a dinner party using curry house cooking techniques!

Simple tips to recreate that takeaway taste at home?

I'm a big believer that the success of a recipe is 90% down to the ingredients you use and 10% down to actually cooking. Use the freshest ingredients you can find and it is difficult to go wrong if you follow the recipes!

Desert island Indian dish?

Definitely tandoori-style lobster!

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THE HAIRY BIKERS'

British Curry Tour

This chirpy duo love a good curry, so much so they've dedicated one of their many cookbooks to this style of cooking. We caught up with Si King and Dave Myers to find out why they're such big fans of the nation's favourite dish…

I N T E R V I E W: K AY L E I G H R AT T L E

Tell us a bit about why you like curry…

Dave: We love everything about it!

First of all, it's incredibly regional.

Secondly, thousands of years of alchemy, spices, and herbs have gone into creating this culture, which is absolutely fabulous. I remember coming to London as a student and going to my first curry house in 1977 in New Cross in South London – I just couldn't believe it! It was just the most interesting food I'd ever tasted and I spent my grant working my way through the menu.

Si: I love cooking curry as well.

Indian food is rich, sensuous and indulgent.

What's your favourite type of curry to cook at home?

Dave: I'll often cook a saag gosht [lamb and spinach curry] as I love the combination of flavours, but I tend to slow cook mine with mutton and add the fresh spinach just at the end.

Si: I love anything cooked in a tandoor, I think the whole process is fantastic. I don't own a proper clay oven, but I've worked out a way of making my own in a wood fire oven and it's just epic!

Which British ingredients work best in a curry?

Dave: Venison is great. The first time I tried it was at Vivek Singh's Cinnamon Club. A lot of his spices and marinades are very light and work subtly with the main 22 /

ingredients. Guinea fowl is also fantastic with curry and you get an amazing stock from the bones as well.

Si: Venison also pairs really well with tamarind in a curry. You've got the earthiness and the gaminess of the venison and an acidity and slight sweetness from the tamarind – it's just so great!

Dave: Cauliflowers are also brilliant, especially in aloo gobi [potatoes and cauliflower]. My tip is to find a British cauliflower the size of of a gorilla's head – then it's just perfect!

Do you have a preferred spice to use?

Dave: It's not a spice as such but fresh curry leaves are brilliant! They add a bit of magic. We have a recipe for a Keralan king prawn curry and when you fry the curry leaves off it adds such flavour.

Si: I bought some hanni the other day. It's a form of asafoetida [a plant from the fennel family]. I got it from a store called Brighton Grove Food in the west of Newcastle, which I've been visiting for years. Honestly, something just happens when you add it to curry – it's amazing! I always come back with some panch phoron (Indian five spice blend) too. It's especially great with French beans, garlic, onion and chilli.

Where else do you source your produce?

Dave: When I lived up north I used to go to Bradford a lot to get my ingredients – you can get anything

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Café Spice Namasté

there. At the moment I'm living in Kent and there's a great shop in Rochester where I pick up a lot of my fresh produce. It's all about buying staples such as coriander leaves in bulk.

Where in the UK is good for a curry?

Dave: I love Ackbar's in Bradford.

You get giant naans like a tree which hang in front of you at your table and you just tear pieces off. The food is stunning. Sirus Todiwala's Café Spice Namasté in Tower Hamlets, London, is also great. The head chef

THE HAIRY BIKERS

“That's the great thing about curry; you have everything from Michelin starred food in Mayfair to curry houses in Bristol and Bradford” is from Goa and we just go in there and eat whatever the chef wants to feed us.

We also love Atul Kochhar's Michelinstarred Benares in Mayfair. That's the great thing about curry; you have everything from Michelin starred food in Mayfair to curry houses in Bristol and Bradford – it's right across the board. The last place we went to as a pair was Urban Tandoor in Bristol – it's a cracker!

Si: It's very, very busy but the curry and staff are great and we had a wonderful time. In Newcastle there's a restaurant that's been there for an incredibly long time called Sachins. It's always consistently brilliant.

How has the curry scene evolved in the UK over the years?

Si: There are certainly more vegetarian curries around. There's a small chain of Indian restaurants specialising in this type of food called Rasa. They serve predominantly veggie cuisine and they also have dosas.

Dave: Sree Krishna In Tooting is a

south Indian restaurant which has lots of veggie dishes. It has been there for donkey's years! I remember going there as a student, it was the first time I had a masala dosai [rice and lentil flour pancake filled with potato masala].

something non-alcoholic, go for a mango lassi.

Si: Oaky wines also work well, especially those with a buttery finish – Atul has got it perfectly right there!

And what are your top side dishes?

What advice would you give to anyone cooking curry for the first time?

Dave: I will always go for a stuffed paratha and I love a tarka dhal, a saag baji, a saag paneer and even a saag gosht. Add a saag aloo to that too!

Si: It's very difficult to choose a favourite, but I like a chana dhal.

What generally happens is that it becomes a bit of a buffet when we're together! I'll pitch in with three choices, Dave will order another three and it works really well!

What do you like to drink with your curry?

Dave: I'm a Kingfisher beer/Cobra man traditionally, but at Atul Kochhar's Benares we tried the wine pairing tasting menu. Or, if you're looking for

Dave: Knock out a balti! There's a reason why they work so well in restaurants – they're just so quick and simple to prepare. Basically, you get a pan that's like a wok, add the ingredients, then the gravy, and serve. Another simple dish to get you started and a favourite of mine is a bit of a faux tandoori. You just need to combine diced lamb, chicken or prawns with some yogurt and a tandoori masala spice dry mix.

Pop it in the oven as hot as you can get it and just serve with naan bread, a squidge of lemon and some salad.

It's fantastic, especially when served with an obligatory ice cold beer!

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The Hairy Bikers' Mediterranean Adventure by Si King and Dave Myers (£25, Seven Dials) is out now.

Photography

by Andrew Hayes-Watkins / 23

GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:31 Page 24

ade - M lk e t i mi Wh ng rsey a e t J s Gar reamy c w it h

COLU M N | VALENT IN E WA RNE R

Valentine’s kitchen Our intrepid columnist tells us why some of the of the world's best curries can be found off the beaten track

Illustrations: Alice Cleary, aliceclearyillustrated.com

S

ome of the most delicious curries I've ever tasted have been from the very places people may not be inclined to look. Take heed bold travellers of the Orient who unwisely think the hotel is a better place to eat than the street. While the roadside vendor arrives, prepares and sells out of food, the hotel will likely be re-heating a grand buffet of curries to cool them yet again in rattling fridges, where trembling drips of condensation fall back into this chemically weaponised puddle of brown.

In a shack in the jungle I once ate a curry, my immersion into its vibrant deep spicy deliciousness only interrupted by the chef being arrested and led from his roadside kitchen. I was forced to settle the extortionate bill with the police who informed me that ‘Cooky’ was a notorious poacher and I had just eaten the equivalent of a whole white spotted chevrotain – an endangered pygmy tea cup sized deer.

In the mist of the Naga hills I once ate a slick, maroon coloured curry with the once headhunters of the Angami tribe. In it bobbed hacked chunks of hairy boar. It was not unpleasant and on finishing we got deep into cups of palm wine. Under the stars we listened to the haunting harmonics and clicks of Angami songs when I was suddenly asked to join in. To my surprise, all the elderly men stood up, proudly decorated in their hornbill feathers and bristling with spears, to sing “It’s a Long way to Tipperary.” Turns out they had fought alongside the British in the Second World War. I infinitely prefer such occasions to a vindaloo, five pints and staggering home shouting “Thank you for the music.”

While fishing the lower Mahi-Dehing river in the Himalayas I ate some of the best curry I’ve ever tasted, foraged from jungle greens by our guides. Every night the guts and internal organs of the ten live chickens were cleaned and chopped with ginger, garlic and spices, then rolled in a banana leaf and shoved inside a thick section of bamboo. The ends were blocked

“Some of the most delicious curries I've ever tasted have been from the places people may not be inclined to look ” with mud, the package tossed on the fire and its cooking time signalled by the whip-crack of splitting wood. Once unwrapped, those steaming guts were one of the finest things I can ever remember tasting.

Unwisely, I once instructed the waiter at West London’s legendary Khan’s Restaurant to ramp up my jalfrezi. Tears poured down the backs of my legs the following morning, having taken on such torturous heat the night before that on the first mouthful I got tinnitus, started hallucinating and suffered a panic attack.

But, most beloved of all, was my father’s prawn curry from his days as an

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ambassador in Laos during the Sixties. It was a gentle saffron and cardamom laced curry, mellowed with vermouth and cream.

It was so deliciously sweet and creamy that I couldn't help but utter the words: Keep Korma and Curry On!

ABOUT VAL WARNER

Our monthly columnist is an acclaimed chef, TV presenter and author. Find out more at valentinewarner.com

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08/12/2017 09:56

Street Food

AT HOME

Chetna Makan brings Indian street food to life with these vibrant recipes, inspired by her travels around this richly diverse country

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RECIPES | STREET FOOD

S

“

treet food is a huge and important part of India’s food culture. I love the fact that it is such a leveller – no matter what your background might be, standing at a popular street stall next to the other customers, you are all simply people enjoying the food.

Some turn up in luxury cars, others on bicycles, but they’re all there to experience the food made by that vendor. Most street food is freshly prepared to order, served very quickly and, best of all, extremely cheap. Not only can you buy snacks and light dishes to keep you going, but you will also find amazing meals, complete with a variety of flavours and components on offer.

Here I have chosen my favourite street food dishes – the food that has stood out for me on my travels.

All of them have a memory or flavour that is special to me, but I’ve been careful to select recipes that are easily made in home kitchens.

You should be able to find most of the ingredients locally, apart from a handful that are required for special dishes, which should be readily available online.

The key to cooking great street food is to prepare everything in advance.

Get all the ingredients and other things you need together, do all the chopping and other prepping, have your chutneys ready then, finally, bring the dish together when you are ready to eat."

Onion Samosa Makes: about 24 Prepare: 40 minutes Cook: 10 minutes

1 tbsp sunflower oil, plus extra for deep-frying 4 onions, finely chopped 1 tsp salt ½ tsp chilli powder 1 small green chilli, finely chopped 12 sheets of filo pastry 1 egg, beaten Extra small green chillies, to decorate One or all of the chutneys on p.30

1. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a saucepan set over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes, until they begin to soften. Add the salt, chilli powder and green chilli, mix well and set aside to cool.

2. Take 1 sheet of pastry and cut it into strips, each 5cm wide. While you work with each piece, keep the other pastry sheets covered with a damp tea towel to prevent the pastry from drying out. Set 1 strip of pastry on your work surface and place a heaped tbsp of the onion mixture at 1 end. Fold 1 corner of the pastry over the filling to form a triangle, then continue folding in alternate directions along the strip to make a triangular parcel. Brush the loose end with beaten egg and seal the triangle.

3. Place the filled samosa on a plate and cover the plate with a damp tea towel so the pastry doesn’t dry out while you continue making samosas with the remaining pastry and onion mixture.

4. Fill a deep-fat fryer or a large saucepan with enough oil for deep-frying the samosas (ensuring

the pan is no more than onethird full). Line a plate with some kitchen paper.

5. Heat the oil to 190°C. Fry the samosas in batches for about 2 minutes each, until golden brown. Watch them carefully as they cook, since the filo pastry browns quickly. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer the samosas to the paperlined plate to drain excess oil.

Decorate with extra small green chillis, if you wish, and serve hot with your favourite chutney.

Plain Dosa Makes: about 12 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus

overnight soaking and fermenting Cook: 3 minutes per dosa 300g white rice 100g split black lentils 10g fenugreek seeds Sunflower oil, for frying To serve:

Daal Coconut Chutney (see p.30)

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Recipes taken from Chai, Chaat & Chutney by Chetna Makan (£20, Mitchell Beazley)

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1. Soak the rice overnight in 500ml of water. At the same time, in a separate bowl, soak the lentils and fenugreek seeds together in 400ml measured water. The next day, drain the rice and transfer it to a blender. Blend to a paste, adding a little water if necessary – be careful not to add too much as you want a thick paste. Repeat the process with the lentil and fenugreek mixture.

2. Combine the 2 pastes in a bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave the mixture in a warm part of the kitchen for 24 hours to ferment.

You will find that the batter rises a little and smells sour. At that point, transfer it to the refrigerator until you are ready to cook.

3. Check the batter is the right consistency: it should be easy to spread, so blend in some water if needed. Heat a frying pan over high heat and add a few drops of oil. Once the pan is hot, wipe it carefully with kitchen paper so that it is greased, but dry. Pour a ladleful of batter into the frying pan and use the underside of the ladle bowl to spread the batter across the base of the pan into a large, thin dosa.

4. Drizzle 1 tsp oil around the edges of the dosa and cook for 2–3 minutes, until golden (note that the dosa is cooked on only 1 side). Fold the dosa in half and transfer it to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter. Serve the dosa hot with daal and chutney.

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Baigan Bhaja Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes,

plus standing time Cook: 10 minutes

1 aubergine ½ tsp salt ½ tsp chilli powder Sunflower oil, for deep-frying Sea salt flakes One or all of the chutneys on p.30 For the batter:

150g gram flour 3/4 tsp salt ½ tsp chilli powder ½ tsp turmeric 1. Cut the aubergine vertically into thin slices with a thickness of no more than 5mm. Rub the flesh with the salt and chilli powder leave to stand for 10 minutes. (This helps to release excess moisture in the aubergine flesh).

2. To make the batter, combine the gram flour, salt and spices in a bowl, then gradually add about 300ml water to form a smooth batter with a thin coating consistency.

Heat enough oil for deep frying in a deep-fat fryer or large saucepan (ensuring the pan is no more than one-third full) to 190°C. 3. Line a plate with some kitchen paper. Working with 1 slice of aubergine at a time, press it between 2 sheets of kitchen paper to extract excess moisture, then dip the slice in the batter, add it to the hot oil and fry for 1 minute on each side, until deep golden brownand crispy. Transfer to the paper-lined plate and leave to drain excess oil while you fry the remaining aubergine slices. Season with sea salt flakes and serve hot with your preferred chutney.

RECIPES | STREET FOOD

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3 AMAZING CHUTNEYS Cocunut Chutney Serves: 6-8

2 tbsps split chickpeas • 150g fresh coconut,chopped • 2 green chillies, roughly chopped • 2.5cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped • 10 curry leaves • 1 tbsp sunflower oil • 1 tsp mustard seeds 1. Heat a dry frying pan over medium heat. Add the split chickpeas and toast for 3–4 minutes, until they are lightly browned. Using a blender, combine the coconut, chilli, ginger and 6 curry leaves. Add the toasted chickpeas and 2–3 tbsps water and blend to a smooth paste. Transfer the chutney to a bowl.

2. Heat the oil in the frying pan over medium heat.

Add the mustard seeds and remaining curry leaves and, when they begin to pop, pour the flavoured oil over the chutney and mix well. This chutney will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3–4 days.

Tomato Chutney Serves: 6-8

“A staple of North Indian cuisine, this dessert is available from street stalls during winter. It is similar to kheer (Indian rice pudding)” Phirni Serves: 8 Prepare: 10 minutes, plus soaking

and chilling time Cook: 50 minutes 100g long-grain white rice 1 litre milk Large pinch of saffron 1 tsp ground cardamom 100g golden caster sugar Handful of pistachio nuts, roughly chopped 1. Soak the rice in 4 tbsps water for 15 minutes, then use a blender

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or food processor to blend the rice and water to a coarse paste – you don’t want it to be smooth.

Combine the milk and saffron in a heavy saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the rice paste and mix well. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 30–40 minutes, stirring every 5–7 minutes, until the rice is cooked. Add the cardamom and caster sugar and mix well.

2. Pour the phirni into clay pots if you have them, otherwise use ceramic or glass bowls. Sprinkle the pistachios on top and chill for a few hours before serving cold.

8 tomatoes, roughly chopped • 8 garlic cloves, chopped • 4 small green chillies, chopped • 2 tbsps sunflower oil • ½ tsp salt • 1 tsp granulated sugar 1. Using a food processor, blend the tomatoes, garlic and chillies to make a smooth paste.

Heat the oil in a saucepan and add the tomato mixture with the salt and sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer over medium-low heat for 10–12 minutes, until the chutney thickens a little and the tomatoes are cooked. Leave to cool before serving.

This chutney will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 4–5 days.

Coriander & Spinach Chutney Serves: 6-8

25g split chickpeas • 50g coriander leaves • 50g spinach leaves • 15g mint leaves • 4 garlic cloves • 2.5cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled • 2 green chillies, sliced • ½ tsp salt • 50ml natural yogurt 1. Heat a dry frying pan over medium heat. Add the split chickpeas and toast for 3–4 minutes, until they turn golden in colour. Tip the toasted chickpeas into a small bowl and leave to cool. Using a small food processor, blend the coriander, spinach, mint, garlic, ginger, chillies, salt and roasted chickpeas until smooth. Add the yogurt and blend again.

Transfer to a bowl to serve, or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 4–5 days.

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:31 Page 31

The evolution of

CURRY!

Britain’s brand of Indian food has blossomed into a contemporary scene as complex and vibrant as its spiritual motherland, discovers Anna Blewett

W

hen Charles Darwin first stepped foot on Galapagos shingle he encountered strange incarnations of familiar species; echoes of his homeland stared back from living plants and creatures which – in their isolation – had evolved into fantastical versions of their relatives back on the mainland.

So it was for chef Cyrus Todiwala when he arrived from India into

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Britain in the early 90s. Face-to-face with his own food culture recreated, reimagined and anglicized by many generations of immigrant chefs, he found himself at a loss to recognise dishes purporting to be authentic Indian food. “When I first came from India to run someone else’s restaurant I couldn’t understand anything on the menu!” he exclaims.

“There were dishes I knew by name, but the preparations for which were completely alien to me.

“Take what was being called

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an onion bhaji,” says Cyrus, who was awarded an OBE for his contribution to the catering industry in 2010. “Actually, a ‘bhaji’ is cooked vegetables or spinach. In India the fritter we make with onions is called a ‘bhujjia’ [budgie-ah]; they’re small, crispy and crunchy. Delicious.

What was being served here was like a tennis ball, one that was gooey and gummy inside.” Cyrus was particularly troubled to see pathia, a traditional dish hailing from the Parsee community of his birth,

MODERN BRITISH INDIAN

Café Spice Namasté Interior

Cyrus Todiwala

corrupted beyond all recognition. “My wife and I have been eating pathia and puri since we were children.

What I found on the menu bore no relevance to Parsee food at all. It was a nightmare for me, but as far as the British were concerned it was the norm.”

In fact, this Indian food scene that Cyrus would play such a leading role in changing was the result of nearly two centuries of bumpy evolution.

Whilst London’s Hindoostane Coffee House, opened by an East India Company captain by the name of Sake Dean Mahomed, traded for just a year from 1810, our love affair with food from the Indian subcontinent was established. Turbulent relations between Victorian Britain and her most prized colony saw curry go in and out of fashion in the 19th century, but by the mid 20th curry houses were common. Then an influx of Bangladeshi immigrants in the early 70s shaped the way that dishes from distinct regions of the subcontinent were reworked for the tastes of Britain’s emerging middle classes. The legacy of this generation of chefs continues to this day; a high proportion of regional curry houses are run by families of Bangladeshi origin.

If the British dishes that emerged suited the paying public, however, they were an affront to those familiar with the authentic taste of India. “I went through the dilemma myself, thinking ‘How can Britain be wrong?’” recalls Cyrus. “Then I realised the food wasn’t wrong but

was what had been created over many years. That was what the public expected and what was cooked for them.”

Closing the gap between real Indian cuisine and the British simulation was no mean feat but over the last 20 years more authentic dishes have won over a new audience of discerning diners. A strong focus on quality has characterised the modern era of Indian restaurants, from Cyrus Todiwala’s own Café Spice Namasté to Vivek Singh’s Cinnamon Club, Atul Kochhar’s Benares and Aktar Islam’s Lasan.

While many regions fight for the right to be called the UK’s curry capital London has a strong claim in the fine dining stakes, boasting eight Michelin-stared Indian restaurants.

Among them, Veeraswamy in Regent Street has the most illustrious history: Indian cuisine has been served here since 1926.

Modern British Indian

So intertwined is Indian cuisine in today’s British food scene that one chef is using Indian flavours as a hook to encourage more of us to rediscover heritage British meats.

“I think more people have eaten curry than have eaten game,” says chef Stephen Englefield, “so it’s a good way for them to experience the spices they love but with more flavour and adventure.” At The Jugged Hare, a gastropub in the City of London that specialises in game, Stephen’s new curry menu features venison shank dhaba, wild boar dopiaza Bombay

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Will Bowlby at Kricket

pigeon and pheasant Hyderbadi.

It’s a far cry from the anonymous ‘meat’ offered alongside prawn and chicken on many takeaway menus.

“There’s definitely more character and structure to wild meat,” points out Stephen. “Most curries are a fairly slow cook, and the strength and texture of the muscles in a whole leg of boar or side of venison can take that better than perhaps lamb, which starts to fall apart after an hour or so.”

A fusion of Eastern flavours and Western tastes is also evidenced among the new wave of informal Indian-inspired restaurants. One such place is Kricket; once a 20-seat pop-up in a shipping container, now permanently located in London’s Soho and spread over two floors with long dining tables, high counters and an open kitchen. It’s a far cry from the starched linen and piped sitar music of the traditional British curry house.

“We definitely see ourselves as part of the change in Indian food in the last couple of years,” says head chef Will Bowlby. “In India people tend to share their food with lots of dishes on the table at once, so we wanted to recreate that communal way of eating.”

what was being represented at home,” says Will. “It’s such a vast cuisine and the sheer variety regionally is something I wanted to explore a bit more.”

“We are seeing a lot more flavour profiles of authentic Indian cuisine,” says Cyrus of the most recent crop of trendy Indian-inspired eateries. “I don’t think their dishes are always totally representative of those they’re claiming to recreate, but then India is evolving all the time. The small plates trend is brilliant because that’s exactly how most Indians like to eat.

Bombay, for example, is all about eating on the street from tiny plates.”

Today Britain is home to more than 9,000 restaurants celebrating the very best regional cuisines of the Indian subcontinent. Yes, a fair few have tennis ball bhajis on the menu but hey, that’s ok. We’re British, after all.

The next generation

Will’s menu is full of small plates: samphire pakoras with date and tamarind chutney; cockle thoran (a kind of Keralan stir-fry) with coconut and curry leaf; Goan sausage jamun with fennel sugar. Dishes are light, fresh and full of zingy flavours you won’t find at your local takeaway.

“Part of the reason we set Kricket up was that while I was working and travelling in India I realised there was so much more to Indian food than

Kricket

Some like it hot: where to experience Britain’s curry hotspots

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Bradford

Birmingham

Leicester

With an unprecedented six consecutive ‘UK Capital of Curry’ awards to its name, Bradford takes some beating.

Sweet Centre in the city’s Lumb Lane is reputedly the region’s oldest curry house while Aakash in the outlying town on Cleckheaton is undoubtedly the largest, seating up to 850 diners!

The city’s famous ‘Balti triangle’ is dense with restaurants serving the West Midlands’ signature curry, but Brum’s curry culture is deceptively diverse. If you’ve cash to splash the newly-refurbished Lasan, with chef Aktar Islam at the helm, is quite an experience.

Boasting large communities drawn from all over the Indian subcontinent, Leicester is a top destination for authentic food tourism (not least during each autumn’s vibrant Diwali celebrations). A high number of Hindu-run eateries makes it the perfect choice for excellent vegetarian food.

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QUENCH YOUR THIRST! The best wine, beer and gin to pair with spicy, flavour-packed dishes

E

njoying a cold beer with your curry may be a tried and tested tradition, but did you know that pairing it with a chilled glass of wine or even a refreshing gin and tonic can really elevate its flavour? We asked some of London's top curry and drinks experts for some of their serving suggestions...

GIN "When it comes to the relationship between gin and curry, there's a long and detailed history, especially in Britain" explains Neil Rankin, chef director at temper City (tempercity. com), where gin is regularly paired with curry. "At temper City whenever we think curry, we think gin. We

wanted to put the spotlight on this relationship and let our guests explore all the wonderful flavours which come when curry meets gin.

While gin is a refreshing drink and a palate cleanser for many people, it actually goes deeper than that," he says. "If the gin has a heavy citrus profile for example, it will allow your palate to take on a lot more spice.

Or, a heavily spiced gin (e.g. one that contains coriander seed) can be paired with a curry which is rich, sweet and mild."

Top Tips: Pair sweet gins such as Ableforth’s Bathtub Old Tom with mildly spiced curries that have rich, umami flavours

n

Pair dry gins such as Fords London Dry Gin with hot and spicy curries

n

Pair mineral-rich gins such as Hepple and Silent Pool with rich and spicy meat curries

n

WINE At Michelin-starred Benares (benaresrestaurant.com) in London's Mayfair, many of the dishes are designed and tweaked to specifically match the wines on the wine list. Executive chef Atul Kochhar recommends pairing off-dry wines (such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc) with curry as these grapes have a sweetness that perfectly balances the spices used. Pinot Noir is another ideal wine to pair with Indian food, but be sure to opt for one with softer tannins and a balanced acidity says Atul – too much acidity doesn't pair as well with chillies.

CRAFT BEER “Alcohol generally works well with spicy food because capsaicin (the chemical component of chillies which causes the sensation of 'spiciness')

“When it comes to the relationship between gin and curry, there's a long and detailed history, especially in Britain” - Neil Rankin

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is soluble in alcohol but not in water,” explains Tom George, co-founder of Thai restaurant Som Saa (somsaa. com) in Spitalfields. “Sometimes the simplest pairings are the best and a crisp, fresh lager is hard to beat. We serve Camden Unfiltered Pils from tanks in the dining room, as well as Magic Rock Brewery's Salty Kiss. It's flavoured with gooseberries, sea buckthorn and sea salt and its tangy, fermented and fruity flavours are remarkably similar to those of Thai cuisine.”

ALCOHOL-FREE Lassi, a traditional yogurt-based drink from India, is a popular non-alcoholic option for pairing with curry. This drink can be sweet, salty, spiced, fruity or plain, but one thing that unites the different varieties is the fact that it's incredibly cooling and refreshing. In its simplest form, a lassi is made up of a blend of yogurt, fruit, spice and ice. You can make your own yogurt, or use a shop-bought alternative for ease (turn to p.103 for our guide to the best British yogurts

in the shops). Mango, cardamom and rose water are all tasty infusions, and remember to blend your yoghurt, fruit and spices with plenty of ice before serving.

In addition to traditional options, another fantastic pairing comes in the form of Seedlip, the world's first nonalcoholic spirit which aims to 'solve the dilemma of what to drink when you're not drinking'. Sugar and calorie free, Seedlip is made from herbs, spices, peels and bark and is distilled in copper pots - a process that's not dissimilar to traditional gin making methods. There are two varieties available (Garden 108 and Spice 94) but it's Seedlip's Spice 94 in particular that's a perfect partner for a curry, as founder Ben Branson explains: "The complex flavours found in Seedlip Spice 94, including allspice berries, cardamom and citrus peels, elevate both sweet and savoury dishes. The allspice notes provide a more fragrant sweetness, which acts as the perfect palate cleanser and compliments the hotter elements of a traditional curry." Find out more at seedlipdrinks.com

DRINKS CABINET

These craft tipples complement aromatic and fragrant dishes wonderfully:

Denbies Redlands Pinot Noir, £12.99, waitrosecellar.com

Ableforth's Bathtub Gin, £33, ocado.com

Bloom Premium London Dry Gin, £24.50, tesco.com

Peak Ales 6% Indian Pale Ale, £3.25 per 500ml peakales.co.uk

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08/12/2017 14:38

Comfort in a Bowl

With these warming Japanese recipes, former MasterChef winner Tim Anderson and restauranter takes what can feel like an intimidating cuisine and makes it accessible to all. He also tells us about the fascinating history of Japanese curry HOW JAPAN FELL IN LOVE WITH CURRY “The story of Japanese curry is one of global empires rising and falling.

Before the end of the 19th century, there was no curry in Japan. It was introduced not from India, Bangladesh, Thailand, Malaysia or anywhere else that can be thought of as somewhere curry originates – but from Britain. At that time, South Asian curry had already been integrated into the imperial diet, and it was British military officers and diplomats who introduced it to the Japanese. British curry – not very spicy, thickened with flour – caught on, particularly within the Japanese navy and army, where it was celebrated as an economical and tasty way to feed hundreds of hungry servicemen.

Curry remains one of Japan’s favourite comfort foods, delicious as it is weirdly divorced from curry’s Asian origins. Whereas an Indian curry will be naturally thick from puréed onions/tomatoes/ chillies and a whole heap of spices, Japan’s curry is based on a flourand-butter roux that thickens a lightly-spiced stock-based sauce.

I do love Japanese curry, but I also love South Asian curries with their vibrancy and layers of flavour. This recipe combines the two. I keep it vegetarian, because I find it just as satisfying that way, but if you want you can add chicken, beef or pork to this. In fact, you can add just about anything you want (at my restaurant we put ham and cheese on it and it’s amazing).”

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R E C I P E S | J A PA N E S E C U R R Y

Japanese Curry Rice Serves: 2-4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes

1 onion, cut into small chunks 2 carrots, peeled and cut into wedges 400g floury potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks ½ cauliflower, broken into bite-sized florets 4 portions of cooked rice, to serve For the curry sauce:

4 tbsps oil 1 large onion, roughly chopped 2 cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely sliced 1 green chilli, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tomatoes ½ Golden Delicious or similar apple, peeled and roughly chopped ½ banana 30g mild Madras curry powder 2 tbsps garam masala 750ml chicken or beef stock 60g butter 6 tbsps plain (all-purpose) flour 2 tbsps ketchup 2 tbsps soy sauce Salt 1. For the sauce, combine the oil, onion, ginger, chilli, garlic, tomatoes, apple, banana, curry powder and garam masala in a food processor and blitz to a paste. Pour this into a saucepan and cook on a medium-high heat, stirring often, until the mixture begins to caramelise and the spices become aromatic. Add the stock and bring to the boil.

2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a separate saucepan and whisk in the flour. Cook on a low heat for about 8 minutes, stirring constantly, until the roux thickens and turns a golden brown colour.

Ladle the curry mixture from the other pan into the roux, a little at

a time, whisking constantly to incorporate. Add the ketchup and soy sauce. Cook the mixture until it’s quite thick, then transfer to a blender or use an immersion blender to purée until very smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt.

3. Place the onion, carrots and potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, add the cauliflower and reduce to a simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes, until everything is tender.

Drain and return to the pan, and pour in the curry sauce. Bring everything back to a simmer and serve with the rice.

Katsu Curry

“Katsu curry is simply Japanese curry rice with the delightful addition of breaded, fried meat, typically chicken. The recipe is exactly the same as it is for the Curry Rice plus the katsu on the right. Feel free to use less veg if you like, since there will be more bulk provided by the katsu”

Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 15 minutes

1 quantity Curry Rice (see previous recipe) 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut in half horizontally to produce two thin escalopes Salt and pepper Plain flour, for dredging 1 egg, beaten with a splash of milk or water 200g panko breadcrumbs Oil, for shallow-frying

Extracted from JapanEasy by Tim Anderson (£20, Hardie Grant) Photography © Laura Edwards

1. Season the chicken breasts well with salt and pepper, then dredge in flour. Soak them in the beaten egg, then coat them thoroughly with the panko. Heat a little oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat.

2. Lay the breaded chicken in the oil and cook for 5–6 minutes on each side. Remove and drain on kitchen paper or a wire rack.

Leave to rest briefly before slicing and serving atop the curry rice.

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Curry Udon

“Japanese curry and udon: a comfort food power couple. The addition of curry to hot udon doubles down on its warming, satisfying qualities – I love all kinds of udon, but this may be my favourite” Makes: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 20 minutes

2 tbsps vegetable oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 1 green chilli, very finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped 1 red pepper, diced 60g butter 6 tbsps plain flour 45g Madras curry powder (you can use hot or mild, or

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a combination of both) 2 tbsps garam masala 1.2 litres chicken or beef stock, dashi, or any combination of the three 4 tbsps soy sauce, or more to taste 4 tbsps ketchup Salt 1 sweetcorn cob, or 150g tinned sweetcorn 4 portions of udon noodles 2 spring onions, finely sliced 4 free range eggs, poached or soft-boiled Pinch of dried chilli flakes (optional) 40–50 g (1½–2 oz) red pickled ginger (optional) 50g Cheddar cheese, grated (optional – but it’s delicious) Toasted sesame seeds

R E C I P E S | J A PA N E S E C U R R Y

“Preparing edamame with hot, dry heat dries them out slightly, making their texture more dense, and giving them a slightly caramelised, richer, nuttier aroma”

1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and add the onion. Cook until lightly browned, then add the chilli, garlic and red pepper. Continue to cook until the garlic has softened and the pepper has started to brown.

2. Remove the veg from the pan with a slotted spoon and reserve.

Add the butter to the pan and let it melt, then whisk in the flour.

Cook until the roux turns a light golden brown, stirring constantly.

Add the curry powder and garam masala, reduce the heat to low and cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently. Add the stock or dashi in a thin stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps, and bring to the boil. Add the soy sauce and ketchup and reduce to a simmer.

3. If using a sweetcorn cob, blanch in boiling water then cut off the kernels, or heat up the tinned sweetcorn in a saucepan or the microwave. Cook the udon according to the package instructions, then drain and portion into deep bowls. Pour over the curry broth and top with the sweetcorn kernels, sautéed onion and pepper mixture, spring onions, eggs, chilli flakes, pickled ginger, cheese, if using, and sesame seeds.

The Best Edamame Makes: 2 Prepare: 2 minutes Cook: 10 minutes

250g frozen edamame

1 tbsp black sesame seeds, crushed (white sesame seeds will do if you can’t get black) 1 tsp sesame oil (optional) A few pinches of salt, ideally sea salt 1. Spread the edamame out on a baking tray and place under the grill on its highest setting. Keep checking every 5 minutes or so, turning and moving the edamame around periodically to ensure even browning. They are done when they’re nicely browned (and a little bit black in some places). Immediately toss the edamame with the crushed sesame seeds, sesame oil, if using, and salt, and enjoy while piping hot.

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EASY EVERYDAY

EASY EVERYDAY T E M PT I N G S E A S O N A L R E C I P E S TO C O O K N O W

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FRESH & EASY FAMILY MEALS !

SPICY AND SATISFYING SEASONAL RECIPES

Delicious ways to shake up your weekday cooking p44

New ways with pink rhubarb

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Indian breads made easy www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

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SEASONAL HERO

b r a b u h R d e c r o F Sharp, fruity and succulent, early rhubarb cuts through the winter months with a welcoming sweetness – and it’s ready now!

A

s we all know, it’s preferable to eat ingredients according to their natural seasons, but forced rhubarb is an exception to the rule. Grown indoors, this vibrant fruit is deprived of light for a matter of months, making for a far sweeter, succulent and tender stem, as opposed to the more hardy varieties which grow outdoors and are harvested early summer. We love devouring it in desserts, cakes, crumbles and cordials, or in a punchy sauce served with duck or oily fish.

GROW Forced rhubarb is typically grown in heated sheds in complete darkness, predominantly in the ‘Rhubarb Triangle’ in West Yorkshire. Forced stems are then ready approximately eight weeks after covering.

PREP Prepping forced rhubarb is pretty straightforward as you don’t need to remove the outer skin. Simply clean it and trim the ends, but make sure to remove any leaves before eating as they’re toxic!

STORE Forced rhubarb will last for a couple of days in the fridge, but it does tend to wilt quite quickly. Keeping the leaves in tact until you’re ready to eat it will help maintain its shelf life.

ENJOY Not only does it taste good, it’s also versatile and can be stewed, poached, roasted and puréed. It’s also delicious puréed in cocktails!

ALSO IN SEASON… Cabbage Forget soggy greens; this verdant crop is just asking to be fried with a little butter, lemon juice and bacon.

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Jerusalem Artichoke This nutty, iron-packed veg works particularly well in soups, along with plenty of cheese and cream. It’s also great doused in rapeseed oil, thyme, garlic and sea salt and paired with lamb.

Shellfish Clams, cockles, winkles and mussels are all in abundance at this time of year.

Add to a creamy fish pie or combine with garlic, chopped tomatoes and paprika for a tasty fish stew.

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RHUBARB & ALMOND TART Makes: 8-10 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 1 hour, 5 minutes 350g shortcrust pastry, defrosted if frozen 400g rhubarb, trimmed and cut into short lengths 225g golden caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp for sprinkling 150g unsalted butter, softened 2 large free-range eggs 100g ground almonds 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp vanilla powder 50g plain flour, plus extra for rolling 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/ Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Roll the pastry out thinly and use to line a deep 23cm fluted tart tin. Prick the base, line with baking parchment, fill with baking beans and cook for 15 minutes, then remove the beans and parchment and bake for a further 5 minutes, until the pastry is cooked through.

2. Meanwhile, toss together the rhubarb and 75g sugar. Put the mixture in an ovenproof dish and bake for 10-15 minutes, until the rhubarb is just tender but still holding its shape. Turn the oven down to 180˚C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4.

3. Using electric beaters, whisk together the butter, eggs, almonds, baking powder, vanilla powder, flour and remaining 150g sugar, until very soft. Place ½ the rhubarb in the base of the pastry case. Spread the almond mixture over the top,

EASY EVERYDAY

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then scatter over the remaining rhubarb. Sprinkle with the extra 1 tbsp sugar and bake for 45 minutes, until golden (cover loosely with foil if it starts to brown on top). Leave to cool, then slice and serve with a spoonful of crème fraîche, if desired.

RHUBARB, POMEGRANATE & GINGER SPONGE PUDDING Makes: 6-8 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 1 hour 30 minutes 250g rhubarb, sliced 50g soft brown muscovado sugar 1 piece stem ginger, finely chopped 50g pomegranate seeds For the sponge: 125g butter 125g golden caster sugar 2 large free-range eggs, beaten 175g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 2 tsps ground ginger 1 tbsp Lyle’s golden syrup or similar 3 tbsps milk Waitrose Seriously Creamy Madagascan Vanilla Custard, or similar, to serve 1. Place the washed rhubarb in a pan with the brown sugar and chopped ginger, and heat gently until tender.

Stir in the pomegranate seeds and spoon into the base of a buttered 900ml pudding basin.

2. Cream the butter and caster sugar until pale and fluffy then gradually beat in the eggs. Sift in the flour, baking powder and ground ginger, and fold in with the golden syrup and milk to give a soft mixture that drops off a spoon. Pour into the basin and level the surface.

Cover the basin with a double layer of baking parchment and foil, with a fold in the middle to allow the pudding to expand. Steam in a large pan for 1½ hours, topping up with water as necessary.

3. To serve, turn out the pudding onto a serving plate and serve with warmed custard, or cream.

MORE WAYS WITH RHUBARB....

Rhubarb Vodka Slice 600g rhubarb and place in an airtight, sterilised jar such as a Kilner.

Add 200g caster sugar, a couple of strips of orange zest and a litre of vodka. Seal and store in a dark cupboard for 6-8 weeks (the longer the better), gently shaking occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Once steeped, strain the vodka through a muslin square and serve with tonic or in a cocktail.

Rhubarb & Lemon Fool Cut 400g rhubarb into 2.5cm chunks.

Put into a pan with 75g golden caster sugar, a dash of Grand Marnier liqueur and 75ml cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Strain the rhubarb, reserving the syrup. Pour the syrup back into pan and simmer until reduced by a third, then cool.

Once cooled, whisk in 300ml double cream, 500g Greek yogurt, ½ tsp vanilla

Recipes from waitrose.com

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essence and 50g sugar until soft peaks form. Mash half the rhubarb, stir into the cream, fold in the remaining fruit and cover with a thin layer of lemon zest.

Rhubarb, New Potato & Mackerel Salad Thinly slice 2 cooked beetroots and place in a bowl. Pour over 3 tbsps apple cider vinegar and top with water until just covered. Place in the fridge for an hour. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Slice 2 rhubarb stalks and a handful of new potatoes into small pieces and place on a baking tray. Drizzle over 2 tbsps balsamic vinegar, season with black pepper and roast in the oven for 15 minutes.

Drain the beetroot and pat dry. Flake 2 smoked mackerel fillets on a plate on top of a bed of watercress. Add the rhubarb, potatoes and beetroot. Whisk 1 tbsp rapeseed oil with 1 tbsp lemon juice and drizzle over the salad along with a handful of toasted walnuts.

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D FEBRUARG Y* IN JANUAREAYT BRAITIN OKIN SH FOOD WHEN BO *PLEASE QUOTE GR

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INDIAN BREAD MADE EASY Using soft, fluffy naan to mop up that delicious sauce is one of the great pleasure of eating curry – and these tasty Indian breads couldn’t be simpler to make at home PIZZA STONE NAAN BREAD Serves: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus proving time Cook: 5 minutes For the coriander butter: 50g unsalted butter 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

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½ x 28g pack fresh coriander For the naan: 3g fast action dry yeast 450g very strong white bread flour 150g natural yogurt 1 free range egg, lightly beaten 150g whole milk 10g salt Special kit: Pizza stone

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1. For the coriander butter, melt the butter in a pan over low heat. With a spoon, remove the frothy layer. Add the chopped garlic to the clarified butter. Finely chop the coriander leaves and add to the butter. Allow to stand for at least 10 minutes to cool or until needed.

2. To make the naan bread, mix the yeast with a tablespoon of lukewarm water and set aside for 5 minutes. Place the flour, yogurt, egg, yeast mixture and milk in the bowl of a stand up mixer fitted with a hook and mix for 3 minutes or until a dough is formed. Allow

EASY EVERYDAY

to rest for 10 minutes. Add the salt and mix for a further 5 minutes on medium speed until a smooth dough is formed. Portion into even balls and place on an oiled tray. Oil a sheet of clingfilm and cover the dough balls, place the tray in a warm place and allow the dough to prove for 2 ½ hours or until it has doubled in size.

3. Meanwhile, preheat a pizza stone in a very hot oven for about 30 minutes. Gently take a portion of dough with greased hands and roll into a round shape approximately 0.5cm thick. Turn off the oven and heat the grill. Carefully place the naan bread on the stone and grill for approximately 3-4 minutes or until cooked through. Turn the naan over and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove from the grill, brush with some of the reserved garlic butter and serve.

CORIANDER CHAPATIS Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 10 minutes 200g stoneground strong wholemeal bread flour, plus extra to dust 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp groundnut oil ½ x 28g pack fresh coriander, leaves and stalks finely chopped 1. Place the flour and salt in a bowl.

Add the oil and 100ml warm water and mix to a dough. Tip onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth.

2. Add half the coriander and continue to knead until it’s all incorporated. Divide the dough into 8 golf ball-sized pieces and roll to a 1-2mm thickness, roughly a 15cm circle.

3. Warm a large frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, pat off any residual flour from one of the breads and toast in the pan for 1-2 minutes on each side until puffed and golden. Wrap in a clean, damp tea towel to keep soft and warm until ready to serve. Repeat with the remaining dough. Serve scattered with the remaining coriander.

PRAWN BALTI STUFFED PARATHAS Serves: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes, plus resting time Cook: 10 minutes 425g wholemeal plain flour 1 tsp salt 3 tbsps vegetable oil 180g pack raw jumbo king prawns, roughly chopped 100g baby corn, sliced 4 salad onions, sliced 3 tbsps balti curry paste 2 tbsps chopped coriander 3 tbsps ghee, melted 1. Place the flour and salt in a large bowl, and add the oil. Gradually mix in approximately 300ml warm water to form a soft dough.

Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover and leave for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, mix together the prawns, baby corn, salad onions, balti paste and 1 tbsp coriander.

Heat 1 tbsp ghee in a frying pan and fry the prawn mixture for 4-5 minutes until cooked through.

3. On a floured surface, divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll each out into a thin round, about 22cm in diameter. Heat a little of the remaining ghee in a frying pan and add 1 paratha. Spoon a quarter of the prawn mixture onto half the paratha, spreading it around. Fold the plain side over and cook for 1-2 minutes until golden. Flip the paratha and cook for a further 1-2 minutes. Repeat with the other 3 parathas.

4. Cut each paratha into 3 triangles and scatter with the remaining coriander.

“When filled these flatbreads make a great snack or light lunch. Try using chopped cooked chicken or paneer cheese for a vegetarian alternative” www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

Recipes courtesy of waitrose.com/recipes

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EASY EVERYDAY

DELICIOUS IN

45 MINUTES These warming curries take less than 45 minutes to prep and cook!

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LAMB & APRICOT BIRYANI

CHICKEN ROGAN JOSH

Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes

Serves: 6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes

1 tbsp sunflower oil 330g diced lamb shoulder 1 onion, thinly sliced 225g basmati rice ¼ tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsps Patak’s Korma Spice Paste, or similar 350g pack butternut squash or sweet potato, diced 500ml hot lamb stock 75g dried apricots, diced 2 tbsps flaked almonds 2 tbsps coriander leaves Mini poppadoms, to serve

1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 large red onion, finely chopped 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds 400g dried red lentils 2-3 tbsps rogan josh curry paste 1.5 litres chicken stock, hot 6 free-range skinless chicken thigh fillets, cubed 235g pack spinach Cooked basmati rice and natural yogurt, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 200ºC/Fan 180ºC/ Gas 6. Heat the oil in a large, flameproof casserole and cook the lamb and onion for 5 minutes until browned. Stir in the rice and turmeric and cook for 30 seconds, then add the curry paste, butternut squash or sweet potato, stock and apricots.

2. Cover the dish and bake for 30–35 minutes until the rice is tender and the stock absorbed.

3. Meanwhile, sprinkle the almonds into a frying pan and toast for 2–3 minutes until lightly browned. Fluff up the rice with a fork and scatter over the almonds and coriander. Serve with poppadoms on the side.

1. Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onion, garlic and cumin seeds for 5 minutes until softened and golden. Add the lentils and curry paste and stir for 1 minute, then add the chicken stock and bring everything to a simmer.

2. Stir in the chicken and cook gently for 25 minutes until the lentils are tender and the chicken is cooked through with no pink meat. Add the spinach and cook for 1-2 minutes until just wilted. Serve with cooked basmati rice and spoonfuls of yogurt.

CHICKEN MASSAMAN CURRY

SWEET POTATO & CHICKPEA CURRY

Serves: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 20-25 minutes

Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 35 minutes

400ml can reduced fat coconut milk 200ml chicken stock 100g jamassaman Thai curry paste 1 cinnamon stick 6 chicken thigh fillets 300g small new potatoes, halved 50g cashew nuts or peanuts 1 red chilli ½ x 28g pack fresh coriander, leaves only 2 salad onions, shredded Cooked basmati rice, to serve 1 lime, cut into wedges

1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 350g cauliflower florets 3 tbsps tikka curry paste 350g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes 35g raisins 500ml vegetable stock 400g can chopped tomatoes Juice of ½ lemon 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 115g pack baby spinach 25g toasted flaked almonds Bulgur wheat or quinoa, cooked to serve

1. Place the coconut milk, stock, curry paste and cinnamon stick in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cut the chicken into cubes and add to the pan with the potatoes. Cook gently for 20-25 minutes until the potatoes are tender and the chicken is cooked through with no pink meat remaining.

2. Meanwhile, toast the cashew nuts or peanuts in a small non-stick frying pan for 3-4 minutes until golden brown. Deseed the chilli and slice it into long shreds. Set aside.

3. Divide the curry among 4 bowls and scatter with the toasted nuts, coriander leaves, chilli and salad onions. Serve with rice and lime wedges for squeezing over.

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1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the onion and cauliflower for 6-8 minutes until starting to turn golden and soften.

Stir in the curry paste and cook for 1 minute.

2. Stir in the sweet potatoes, raisins, stock and chopped tomatoes.

Cover and cook gently for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is tender and the sauce is thickened.

3. Stir in the lemon juice, chickpeas and spinach and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Scatter over the toasted flaked almonds and serve with the white and red quinoa mix.

Recipes courtesy of waitrose.com/recipes

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:31 Page 54

Seeded Organic Rye

Organic Pumpernickel

Organic Rye Bread

EASY EVERYDAY

7 ways with…

MANGO CHUTNEY This sweet and spicy condiment may be a curry staple, but it’s also great for jazzing up leftovers

1

Cheddar, Stilton & Chutney Toastie Preheat a griddle pan on medium heat and drizzle rapeseed oil over two slices of sourdough. Flip the bread over and cover one slice with mango chutney, then top with thin slices of Cheddar and Stilton.

Add the other slice of bread, oil side facing upwards. Put the sandwich in the hot pan and press down. Toast in the pan for a couple of minutes, then flip over and cook for a few more minutes. Cut in half and serve.

2

Mango Lassi Blend 3 tbsps mango chutney with 500ml yogurt, ½ tsp cardamom seeds, a splash of milk and two handfuls of ice cubes. Serve poured over ice and garnish with mint.

3

Easy Chicken Curry Heat 2 tbsps rapeseed oil in a frying pan. Add 500g diced chicken and cook until golden all over. Remove the chicken from the pan and put to one side. In the same pan, cook 1 thinly sliced red onion for 2-3 minutes, until softened. Stir in 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 tsp curry powder and a pinch of red chilli flakes and cook for another minute, until fragrant. Add 4 tbsps mango chutney along with a tin of coconut milk and the chicken. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Squeeze in the juice of ½ lime, garnish with a handful of chopped coriander and serve with rice.

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Mango Chutney & Goat’s Cheese Tarts Preheat the oven to 190ºC/Fan 170ºC/ Gas 5. Cut 500g ready-rolled shortcrust pastry with a small biscuit cutter and place in a greased cupcake tray. Add a tsp of mango chutney to each along with a scattering of crumbled goat’s cheese.

Bake for 12-15 minutes.

Chutney & Cheddar Scones Heat oven to 220ºC/Fan 200ºC/ Gas 7. Dust a large baking sheet with a little flour. Tip 350g self-raising flour into a big bowl and mix in 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda and 1 tsp salt. Add 85g diced butter and rub into the flour with your fingertips, or whizz in a food processor.

Stir in 200g Cheddar and a handful of chopped coriander and 80ml milk. Mix together lightly and tip onto a lightly floured surface. Bring together with your hands into an oval shape. Cut into scones with a floured knife and place on the baking sheet, leaving room for them to spread. Make a small dip in the middle of each scone and spoon in mango chutney.

Scatter with any remaining Cheddar and bake for 10-15 mins until risen and golden.

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Chutney Glazed Winter Squash Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Fan 160ºC/ Gas 4. Roughly peel, deseed and slice 1 butternut squash into cubes. Toss with 2 tbsps mango chutney, a sprinkling of chopped coriander and salt and pepper.

Roast for approximately 30 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Lentil & Mango Chutney Soup Roast 2 washed sweet potatoes in the oven for 45 minutes at 180ºC/Fan 160ºC/ Gas 4. Meanwhile, heat a glug of rapeseed oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Fry 2 garlic cloves, 1 sliced onion and 1 tsp cumin on a low heat for a couple of minutes. Add 100g red lentils and 800ml vegetable stock to the pan and let it boil for ten minutes before covering and simmering for a further 30 minutes. Peel and dice the sweet potatoes and add to the soup along with 4 large tbsps mango chutney. Blend the soup with a hand blender until smooth and serve with chopped coriander, a squeeze of lime and a tbsp yogurt.

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SPICE THINGS UP From cheese toasties to crispy roast pork, Indian flavours can be used to enhance all kinds of familiar dishes – says chef Anjum Anand CHEESE & FRESH CHUTNEY JAFFLE

Salt and freshly ground pepper 8 slices sourdough or other bread

have a toasty maker, fry in a hot pan on both sides until crispy.

Makes: 4 Prepare: 5 minutes Cook: 5 minutes

1. Spread the butter on one side of each slice of bread and turn over.

2. Spread 1 tbsp of the tangy coriander chutney on 4 of the slices of bread. Spread the mayo on the other four slices.

3. Arrange the tomatoes evenly over the top, and the cheese and then finish with the other slice of bread, butter side up.

4. Place in a toasty maker and cook until golden. If you don’t

CURRIED SAUSAGES & SPINACH

¼ red onion, finely sliced 100g good quality Cheddar or other cheese 4 tbsps of Tangy Coriander Chutney (see recipe on p.58) 3 tbsps mayonnaise 1 medium tomato, sliced Soft butter

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“This is a lovely harmonious curry for children that is mild and slightly creamy, but not rich. Adding the spinach makes it a one pot meal and a good way to get children to eat their greens. To spice it up a little for the parents, you can add some red chilli powder or crushed red chillies”

EASY EVERYDAY

then cover the pan and cook for 15 minutes or until the sausages are cooked through. Turning them every 5 minutes or so. There shouldn’t be too much water in the pan by the time they are done, if there is, dry some off over a high flame. Add the milk and spinach and bring to a boil. The dish should have a little, light, creamy sauce to it.

Adjust seasoning and serve.

GOAN-STYLE ROAST PORK BELLY Serves: 6 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus overnight marinating Cook: 2 hours, 30 minutes For the pork: 1.2kg belly of pork ¾ tsp salt 1½ tsp fennel seeds, lightly roasted, then ground 1 tbsp maple syrup (optional) For the marinade: 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 4 fat garlic cloves 15g root ginger, peeled weight, coarsely chopped 1 tsp chilli powder ¾ tsp ground cumin 1⁄3 tsp turmeric 1 scant tsp salt Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 25 minutes 1 tbsp vegetable oil ½ tsp brown mustard seeds ½ tsp fennel seeds (optional) 1 small onion, finely sliced 6g ginger, peeled weight 3 fat cloves garlic 2 medium tomatoes 1⁄3 tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp coriander powder ½ tsp garam masala 1 tsp cumin powder 350g of your favourite sausages 100g baby spinach 75ml whole milk

1. Heat the oil in a non-stick medium sized saucepan or frying pan. Add the mustard seeds and once the popping starts to die down add the fennel seeds. Once they colour lightly add the onions. Brown well over a moderate flame, stirring often.

2. Meanwhile, blend together the tomatoes, ginger, garlic and spices.

Add to the cooked onions along with some seasoning. Cook over a highish flame until the mixture has completely reduced to a thick paste. It will release oil into the pan, stir often as it dries up.

3. Add the sausages and a good splash of water, bring to a boil

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1 tsp red or white wine vinegar Juice of ½ lemon 1. The night before cooking – or at least the morning before a supper – score the skin of your belly of pork with a sharp knife at 1cm intervals, or ask your butcher to do so. Place it on a trivet in the sink, skin-side up, and pour a kettle of boiling water over the top (this helps to make the crackling crisp up). Pat dry with kitchen paper.

Place the pork on a board, skin-side down and, using a fork, pierce the meat aggressively all over the flesh and sides – but not the skin – to help the marinade to penetrate.

2. Blend together all the ingredients for the marinade with 2 tbsps of water until smooth, then rub it all over the flesh, leaving the skin free of marinade. Place the pork, skinside up, in a roasting tray in which it fits snugly. Place in the fridge (unwrapped so that the skin can dry out) overnight, or for at least a good five to six hours, making sure all the marinade is on the underside 3. When you’re ready to cook, return the meat to room temperature and preheat the oven to 150°C/Fan 130°C/Gas 2.

Mix together the salt and ground fennel seeds, sprinkle evenly

58 /

over the skin and rub in well.

Pour 240ml of water into the tray with the pork (it should not come up to the skin) and place it in the centre of the oven.

Cook for two and a half hours.

Increase the oven temperature to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7 for a final 30 minutes.

4. Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to rest for 15–20 minutes, covered in foil.

Spoon off any excess fat from the tray, then taste and adjust the seasoning of the juices, adding the maple syrup if you like, and reducing them over a medium heat if they seem too thin. Serve the pork with the pan juices.

1. Blend together all the ingredients with 4 tbsps water, adding only one chilli to start with as the heat varies a lot from one batch to the next. Blend until very smooth and creamy; it might take a few minutes.

Taste and adjust seasoning. Keep in a glass jar in the fridge or freeze until ready to use.

TANGY CORIANDER CHUTNEY Makes: 200ml Prepare: 5 minutes 60g fresh coriander, leaves and some stalks, washed 2 tbsps lemon juice, or to taste 1-2 green chillies, seeded 20g mint leaves, washed 25g pistachios Salt to taste ½ clove garlic (optional)

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Recipes coutesy of Anjum Anand, Founder of The Spice Tailor thespicetailor.com

GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:31 Page 59

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE!

Forget takeaways – these make ahead blends and pastes will have you rustling up authentic curries in no time

Image from stockfood.co.uk

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EASY EVERYDAY

SRI LANKAN THOOL This roasted tamil curry powder is one of the bases of Sri Lankan cooking and is incredibly versatile. Store in an airtight container for up to two months.

Makes: 25-30 curries 20 fresh curry leaves 250g ground coriander 50g ground cumin 75g fennel powder 20g ground fenugreek 250g chilli powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 50g ground black pepper 1. Dry-roast the curry leaves in a dry frying pan (skillet) over a low heat until beginning to colour. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Mix the other ingredients together to form a blended powder. Dry-roast this powder very lightly in a frying pan over a

THAI MASSAMAN CURRY PASTE This is a truly fantastic blend from Thailand – it's at once mild, aromatic, sweet and savoury.

Makes: about 800g (4-5 servings) 10-12 sticks lemongrass, cut into small chunks 80g galangal, cut into small chunks 80g smoked dried red chillies, dry-fried until charred and crispy, then soaked in warm water for 30 minutes with as many seeds removed as possible 200g garlic 200g banana shallots 20g coriander roots 80g roasted peanuts 5g coarse sea salt 1 tsp Thai cardamom, husks removed, or ½ tsp Indian cardamom 40g coriander seeds

very low heat for about a minute until the colour darkens slightly.

3. Remove from the heat, stir and let it cool. Mix in the whole roasted curry leaves, before storing. Be warned that there will be a very strong smell of chillies around the house and the mixture can burn very quickly!

Extracted from Sri Lanka: The Cookbook by Prakash K Sivanathan and Niranjala Ellawala (£20, Frances Lincoln) Photography by Kim Lightbody

CARIBBEAN JERK PASTE A delicious Caribbean recipe that can be used as a rub or blended to form a paste.

Makes: about 60g Thumb-sized piece of root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 1 habanero chilli (or 1 red chilli), deseeded

1 whole nutmeg, grated or chopped 1 teaspoon cloves 10g cassia bark (or 1 cinnamon stick) 2 sheathes of mace, snapped up into small pieces 20g cumin seeds 5g white peppercorns 1. Pound the lemongrass, galangal, chillies, garlic, shallots, coriander and peanuts separately in a pestle and mortar until each forms a smooth paste, using the salt as an abrasive. Once all are pounded individually, combine them in the mortar to form a paste. Set aside.

2. Toast the spices in a frying pan, starting with the cardamom and coriander seeds, then the nutmeg, cloves and cassia bark, shaking the pan constantly. As soon as the spices start to smoke a little, add the mace and

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1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground allspice ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp dark brown sugar Leaves from 8 thyme sprigs 1. Put the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli in a dry frying pan and toast over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, to release their aromas. Transfer them to a pestle and mortar or a blender with the remaining ingredients and pound or blitz to form a paste. Store the paste in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3–4 weeks.

2. To make a Jerk-style sauce, mix 2 tsps of the paste with 100g tinned chopped tomatoes, the juice of 1 lime, 3 tsps red wine vinegar and 1 tsp tomato purée in a pan, and simmer for 15 minutes until thick and reduced.

Extracted from The Doctor's Kitchen by Dr Rupy Aujla (Harper Thorsons, £14.99)

cumin. Toast for another minute, then add the peppercorns and remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool a little.

Grind all the spices to a fine powder, then pound them into the paste.

3. Keep pounding with the pestle until you are left with a slightly moist, fairly smooth paste, with no identifiable chunks. (Bear in mind that massaman paste is dryer than most due to its heavy dry spice content).

4. Store the paste in an airtight container with some clingfilm over the paste to act as a barrier against oxidisation.

Refrigerated, the paste will keep for 3–4 weeks. Although it will lose flavour over time, massaman has a longer shelf life than most pastes as it is packed-full of dry spices, as well as salt and chillies.

Extracted from Cook Thai by Sebby Holmes (£19.99, Kyle Books).

Photography by Tom Regester

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 11:08 Page 62

11

Charming Places to Wine, Dine & Stay

Whether you are looking for a restaurant serving the finest cuisine for dinner, a café/bar for lunch with friends, or a hotel/B&B for a relaxing break, you can’t go far wrong in considering any of the following that are highly recommended by Les Routiers. Enjoy great atmospheres, warm and friendly hospitality, the finest cuisine and best quality drinks within our individual yet unique establishments throughout the UK.

PUB OF THE YEAR 2018

GASTRO PUB OF THE YEAR 2018

Fountain Inn Ashurst, West Sussex

The Moorings at Myton Leamington Spa, Warwickshire

Recently acquired by experienced Innkeeper Alex Tipping, The Fountain is a shining example of a classic English country pub.

A superb location, wonderful food, welcoming atmosphere and excellent staff, The Moorings at Myton offers the perfect recipe for a delightful trip to a canal-side pub and restaurant.

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR 2018

VENUE OF THE YEAR 2018

San Carlo, Leicester

The Mayfield, Seamer, Scarborough

Boasting the only wood burning oven in Leicester, as well as authentic Italian cuisine and a stylish, contemporary interior; San Carlo is perfect for everything from a working lunch to an evening celebratory meal.

GUEST HOUSE OF THE YEAR 2018

Westbourne Guest House, Inverness Family run guesthouse is five minute walk from the City Centre. Highly recommended for Comfort and Satisfaction offering hotel accommodation at a Guest House Price.

BED & BREAKFAST OF THE YEAR 2018

Adria Hotel, Hammersmith, London

A traditional English pub which serves an extensive range of quality food, a superb selection of real ale and wines, and offers an outstanding line-up of entertainment; everything from sell-out comedy nights to unmissable tribute acts!.

CONFERENCE CENTRE OF THE YEAR 2018

20 at The Kings Swindon, Wiltshire Our experience, expertise and space means we're the ideal venue for any function you may have planned.

INN OF THE YEAR 2018

Dragon Inn, Crickhowell, Powys

Family hotel located in the heart of Hammersmith, our aim is to make you feel at home and provide you with an efficient 3-Star hotel service in contemporary surroundings within budget.

The hotel is a 4 Star visit Wales Inn, family owned, has 15 en-suite rooms, a restaurant & bar serving traditional & Welsh dishes all day long. Great care is taken to make sure all our guests are made welcome and are able to experience all that Crickhowell and Wales has to offer.

CAFÉ OF THE YEAR 2018

HOTEL OF THE YEAR 2018

Blas Clwyd Café, St Asaph, Denbighshire

The River Haven Hotel, Rye, East Sussex

Whether you’re after a snack or a meal, Blas Clwyd brings you the finest quality and choice to satisfy every taste.

Using quality local produce whenever we can, let yourself

This friendly comfortable 3 Star Hotel of 22 en-suite rooms in the Ancient Town of Rye is situated on the Strand Quay over-looking the River Tillingham.

WEDDING VENUE OF THE YEAR 2018

Admiral Rodney, Horncastle, Lincoln Our personal wedding service starts from the moment you contact us and we will be delighted to meet with you to discuss all your specific requirements.

The Admiral Rodney holds civil ceremonies licence too.

For more information on the above establishments and to view many more places to wine, dine and stay throughout the UK and Ireland, visit the Les Routiers website at www.routiers.co.uk or call us on 0845 050 1189.

We expect the best so you receive the best.

EASY EVERYDAY

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WEEKDAY WONDERS Refresh your kitchen with these fab buys 1. Three Choirs Bacchus, £14.95 three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk An elegant, dry and versatile English white that works with most meals.

2. Charlie Bigham’s Meatballs Al Forno, £5 waitrose.com Pork and beef meatballs in a delicious tomato sauce, topped off with Mozzarella. Pure comfort.

3. Hive & Keeper Honey Trio Set, £18.95 hiveandkeeper.com A collection of three limited edition raw honeys from British beekeepers – great as a gift, even better as a treat for yourself!

4. Furi Pro Knives. Starting at £29.95, hartsofstur.com Nigella’s knife of choice for her latest show, which is good enough for us! Stylish and functional.

5. Kents Kitchen Chicken Stockpots, RRP £2.75 , amazon.co.uk Top quality, natural tasting stock pots that add fabulous flavour to dishes.

6. Folkington’s Indian Tonic Water, £3.95 for 8 x 150ml ocado.com The perfect tonic for your G&T. 7. Tala Vintage Style Tea Caddy, £4.99 ocado.com A pretty tin for keeping your tea fresh.

8. Simon Howie The Wee Black Pudding, £1.50 tesco.com With its mild flavour and beautifully soft texture, this is a great introduction for those who don’t normally like black pudding.

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08/12/2017 14:56

FULL ENGLISH BREAKFAST: ZHOUK TEA BAR MANCHESTER

ALL THE SPICE!

F

Kayleigh Rattle reveals the best places in the UK for delicious, flavour-packed South Asian grub

rom high-end restaurants to low-key cafés, there's no shortage of places to devour the nation's favourite dish. Here are some of Great British Food's top recommendations to get you started…

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BEST FOR BREAKFAST...

DISHOOM, LONDON

Even if you haven't tried it for yourself, chances are you'll have heard of or seen pictures of this Bombay-style café's infamous breakfasts. Whether you're planning on tucking into their bacon and egg naan roll (featuring lipsmackingly good bacon from The Ginger Pig), West Country fried eggs on chilli cheese toast or a three-egg omelette, we can guarantee love at first bite.

For a lighter option, there's porridge, granola and house 'fire toast' served with pineapple and pink peppercorn jam. Once you've worked your way through the tantalising breakfast menu, you might as well stay for lunch – (we'd be lying if we said we hadn't done that before!). Find Dishoom in London's Shoreditch, King's Cross, Covent Garden, Carnaby Street and Kensington, as well as Edinburgh. dishoom.com

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C U R R Y R E S TA U R A N T G U I D E

BEST FOR A CURRY BRUNCH ZOUK TEA BAR, MANCHESTER & BRADFORD

Why settle for beans on toast when you could have a Maharaja's breakfast at Zouk Tea Bar? The Indian equivalent of a full English, this giant plate features scrambled or fried eggs served with a seekh kebab, turkey rasher, spicy tomatoes, mushrooms, spicy baked beans and kulcha naan. Scrambled eggs with paneer, spicy eggy bread and a Masala omelette packed with fiery green chilli, ginger, coriander and spices are also available, as well as breakfast smoothies, yogurt and granola. 9am-1pm every weekend, zoukteabar.co.uk

SEA SPICE

BEST FOR SEAFOOD...

SEA SPICE, ALDEBURGH

This pretty coastal town in Suffolk is a haven for seafood lovers, with freshly caught crab, lobster and all manner of fish being sold in wooden fish huts dotted along the promenade. And Sea Spice certainly benefits from the location; there's everything from daycaught lobster to pan seared sea bass on the menu, as well as some of the most succulent scallops we've ever tasted. You'll also find Goan-inspired seafood dishes, an incredibly fragrant king prawn coconut curry and a sizzling salmon tikka from the tandoor to tuck into, all served within a chic and homely environment (be sure to grab a window seat to make the most of the sea view). seaspice.co.uk

BEST FOR VEGETARIANS...

RASA, LONDON

Focusing on Keralan specialties (think plenty of coconut, mango, ginger and banana leaves), Rasa has been flying the flag for vegetarian curries for years thanks to its fragrant, flavoursome and inventive dishes. In addition to curries, soups and dosas, there's also a large selection of exciting sides including black eyed beans stir fried with onions, coconut, mustard seeds, chilli and curry leaves, or a Keralan salad of guava, avocado, stir fried Indian shallots, coconut, lime juice and chilli. Rasa's lunch offerings are also first-class and fantastically priced; for only £2.95 the Rasa Meal Box includes basmati rice, bread, two vegetable curries, a stir fried vegetable dish and a dessert. Find them tucked unassumingly behind Oxford Street's bustling thoroughfare and in Stoke Newington. rasarestaurants.com

ZOUK TEA BAR

JAMAVAR

DISHOOM

BEST FOR MICHELIN STARRED CURRY...

JAMAVAR, LONDON

Specialising in regional Indian dishes, this elegant restaurant set in London's Mayfair recently acquired its first Michelin star and serves up delectable dishes within its two elegant dining rooms. But don't let the formality put you off; the early bird four-course menu (available during lunch hours and before 7pm) is really affordable. At just £32 it's a steal, especially considering the quality of the output – the Malai stone bass with cardamom avocado and chutney is particularly divine. jamavarrestaurants.com

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C U R R Y R E S TA U R A N T G U I D E

BEST FOR TRADITIONAL FARE...

BEST FOR AFTERNOON TEA...

SHISH MAHAL, GLASGOW

Glasgow is often regarded as one of the curry capitals of the UK. In fact, it's thought that the famous chicken tikka masala was conceived at this Glaswegian institution by its much-loved owner, Mr Ali, who opened Shish Mahal in the 1960s. Today, it's as busy as ever, with more than 60% of the clientele deemed 'regulars'. The menu is a tome, an outstanding tour de force of India's varying cuisine, but punters tend to go crazy for the lamb bhoonas and anything from the tandoori (it's believed their clay oven was the first in Scotland). The tuna steak karahi is also a thing of beauty. shishmahal.co.uk

BEST FOR CRAFT BEER LOVERS...

BUNDOBUST, MANCHESTER

There's now a Bundobust in Leeds and Manchester and we wouldn't be surprised if the concept continues to spread across the UK. Think of it as a craft beer joint serving topnotch veggie food within a paired back, communal setting.

We recommend ordering a selection of four to five plates between two, or a couple of dishes for each round of drinks, or, if you're feeling particularly hungry, you can attempt to devour the entire menu for £66! bundobust.com

CINNAMON SOHO, LONDON

Vivek Singh may have a string of impressive modern Indian restaurants under his belt but it's Cinnamon Soho we head to for 'high chai', a spicy take on the well-loved British ceremony that is afternoon tea. Alongside plenty of masala chai tea it comes with a selection of moreish snacks including potato bonda with green chutney, mint samosas with caramelised onions, ZOUK TEA BAR Tandoori chicken and chutney sandwiches and lamb sliders.

For the sweet-toothed, there's plum cake and chocolate tartlets with dates and ginger to satisfy any cravings. cinnamonsoho.com

BEST FOR THE HOME OF BALTI...

LASAN, BIRMINGHAM

BEST FOR QUALITY ON A BUDGET...

LAHORE, LONDON

Venture to East London's Brick Lane and you'll not be short of places to find a cheap curry. But if you're looking for one that's top quality, it's all about hidden gem Lahore, situated between Aldgate and Whitechapel. On top of fantastic kebabs, grilled lamb and chilli paneer, this Pakastani grill house also serves sizeable, fluffy naans and wellspiced curries, biryanis and chaana – their much-revered signature dish of slow-cooked chickpeas in butter and herbs. You won't find your typical restaurant setting here though; it's bring-yourown-booze and the décor is pretty plain, but this makes the food stand out even more. Find out more at lahoreone.co.uk

Housed in a former gallery in Birmingham's leafy Jewellery Quarter, this neighbourhood gem has become somewhat of an institution, regularly attracting curry lovers in their droves.

It's also recently had a sophisticated makeover, drawing inspiration from the grand bars and restaurants frequented

by India's upper classes in Delhi and Jaipur. The menu boasts some seriously tasty veggie options (sweet potato kofta anyone?) and new dishes include guinea fowl korma and salli keema, minced lamb with cooked fresh green chill, finished with yogurt and topped with a duck egg. Yum! lasangroup.com

BEST FOR A TASTE OF SRI LANKA...

HOPPERS

HOPPERS, LONDON

It's a truth universally acknowledged that you'll have to queue to get into this popular Soho restaurant, but trust us, it's worth it.

Serving masterfully spiced Sri Lankan curries, dosas, kothu and the eponymous hoppers – delicate, bowl-shaped fermented rice and coconut milk pancakes (go for the one with the fried egg in the middle) – Hoppers is truly something special. And for those that can't abide queuing, you'll be happy to hear there's now a second branch in St Christopher's Place, just off Oxford Street. It takes reservations, has 85 seats and also offers a 'Taste of Hoppers' menu where you can sample eight of the restaurant's key dishes, plus yogurts, sambol and chutneys for £28. Hurrah! hopperslondon.com

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A BIT ON THE SIDE...

From fragrant rices to refreshing salads, here are some of our favourite curry accompaniments Carrot, Cashew & Sultana Salad with Cumin Seeds Serves: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 10 minutes

1 onion, cut into small chunks 4 medium size carrots, washed, peeled and cut into thin strips (using a potato peeler) 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp groundnut oil ½ tsp pulped ginger 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsps honey 25g sultanas, soaked in 5 tbsps of warm orange juice 25g roasted cashews 2 tbsps fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped Sea salt to taste 1. Blanch the carrots in hot water for 1 minute, drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking process. Then place on absorbent kitchen paper and set aside.

2. Place a dry frying pan on a low heat, add the groundnut oil and the cumin seeds until browned slightly. Add the ginger and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the white

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wine vinegar and sauté for 30 seconds then add the brown sugar, honey and sultanas and simmer until you have a sticky consistency. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Roughly crush the cashew nuts, add to a large bowl along with the carrots, then pour over the dressing from the frying pan and add the coriander. Toss the salad really well, and season with sea salt just before serving.

Gujarati Carrot Salad Serves: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 2-3 minutes

200g carrots, coarsely grated 100g pomegranate seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds ¼ tsp red chilli flakes

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¼ tsp fennel seeds ¼ tsp nigella seeds ¼ tsp fenugreek leaves 1 tbsp groundnut oil 3 tbsps fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp clear honey 6 curry leaves chopped finely (optional) Sea salt to taste Handful of fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped 1. Place the carrots and pomegranate seeds into a large bowl. Set aside. Heat the oil in a pan over a low heat and add the spices and sea salt to taste. Sauté for 1 minute until fragrant.

2. Add the lemon juice, honey and curry leaves. Warm through, then allow to cool. Add to the bowl of carrots and pomegranate, along with the fresh coriander. Stir well and serve immediately.

RECIPES | SIDES

Tamarind, Carrot & Red Cabbage Salad Makes: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 20 minutes

4 large carrots, grated 1 small red cabbage, grated ½ tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp red chilli flakes 1 tbsp groundnut oil 1 large red onion, finely sliced 1 tsp pulped garlic ½ tsp pulped ginger 1 mild red chilli, pierced 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp tamarind pulp 1 tbsp brown sugar For the warming spices:

immediately remove from the heat. Add in the carrots and red cabbage, stir well and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Add in the lime zest, lime juice, cashew nuts, coriander and mint. Toss the salad really well and serve.

Quick Spinach & Potatoes Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 20 minutes

450g fresh or frozen chopped spinach 150g baby new potatoes 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 1 tsp fenugreek leaves

1 tsp fennel seeds ¼ tsp asafoetida 2 tbsps unsalted butter or vegetable oil 2 tsps pulped garlic 1 tsp pulped ginger 2 fresh green chillies, pierced 2 tbsps lemon juice Small bunch of coriander and chopped zest of one small lemon to garnish 1. Place a sauté pan on a low heat, add the butter or oil and allow to warm, then add the asafoetida and allow to sizzle.

Immediately add the spices. Mix well, then add the garlic, ginger and green chillies.

2. Stir well and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the spinach,

1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp fenugreek leaves ½ tsp nigella seeds For the garnish:

Zest and juice of one lime 25g roasted cashew nuts, roughly chopped 1 small bunch of coriander including stalks, roughly chopped 1 small bunch of mint leaves, roughly chopped 1. Place a dry frying pan on a low heat, add the warming spices to the pan, and gently heat through for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, add to the pestle and mortar and grind to a powder.

Set aside.

2. In a large sauté pan add the oil and warm through on a medium to low heat. Add the red onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the spices from the pestle and mortar, as well as the turmeric powder, red chilli flakes, garlic, ginger, mild red chilli, white wine vinegar and brown sugar and continue to sauté for a further 5 minutes or until the onions are golden-brown.

3. Add the tamarind, stir well and

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“A good guide for making rice: for every one cup of rice you use, you'll need two cups of water.”

potatoes, lemon juice, 140ml water and sea salt to taste. Stir, place the lid on the pan and cook for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked through.

Remove from the heat, add the fresh coriander and lemon zest, and stir.

Cumin Rice Serves: 4 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 20 minutes

300g basmati rice 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 inch piece of cassia bark 2 cloves 4 green cardamom pods, lightly bashed 2 tbsps unsalted butter 2 onions, finely chopped 1 tsp pulped garlic 1. Melt the butter in a large pan, add the cumin seeds, cassia bark, cloves and cardamoms and allow to sizzle for 30 seconds. Add the onions and fry for 5 minutes, and then add the garlic and fry

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for 5 more minutes, stirring continuously.

2. Add the rice to the pan, stir well and pour over 400ml of hot water (or enough to cover the rice and leave an extra 2cm of water above the rice). Boil until almost all of the water has evaporated. Reduce to the lowest simmer, place a kitchen paper towel over the rice, seal with the lid and simmer for 5 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and do not touch the pan or remove the lid for 5 minutes. Then remove the lid and lift off the kitchen paper which should be quite wet. Fluff the grains up with a fork and remove the cloves and cardamom pods before serving.

Portobello Mushrooms with Roasted Rich Tomatoes Serves: 4 Prepare: 30 minutes Cook: 1 hour 20 minutes

6 portobello mushrooms, stalks

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removed and cleaned with a damp cloth, each mushroom sliced into 6 even slices 4 large juicy beef tomatoes 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds ½ tsp mustard seeds ½ tsp black peppercorns 1 inch piece of cassia bark 1 Indian bay leaf ½ tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp red chilli flakes 1 tsp fenugreek leaves, soaked in 2 tbsps of hot water ½ tsp fennel seeds 4 green cardamoms, lightly bashed 1 black cardamom, lightly bashed 2 cloves ½ tsp ajwain (carom) seeds 3 tbsps groundnut oil 2 medium size onions, finely chopped 2 tsps pulped garlic 1 tsp pulped ginger 2 green chillies, pierced 1 tsp brown sugar Sea salt or salt flakes to taste Freshly ground pepper Small bunch of coriander, including stalks, chopped Juice and zest of one small lime to garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Fan 160ºC/Gas 4. Wash the beef tomatoes and cut into large wedges, transfer to a baking tray, sprinkle over a little salt

RECIPES | SIDES

flakes and freshly ground pepper, and roast in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

2. Take a small dry frying pan, set on a low heat, and warm through the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, brown mustard seeds and black peppercorns until fragrant.

This should take 1 minute, as you are just trying to tease the oil out of the spices. Remove from the heat, add to the pestle and mortar and grind coarsely.

3. In the same small dry frying pan, on a low heat, roast the fennel seads, cardamom, cloves and ajwain seeds, until fragrant (approximately 1 minute).

Set aside.

4. Take a large sauté pan, add the oil and warm on a low heat. Then add the onions, cassia bark and bay leaf. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add the turmeric powder and red chilli flakes, stir and sauté for 2 minutes.

Add the roasted beef tomatoes, brown sugar and salt to taste, and continue to sauté for a further 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

By cooking these ingredients for a little longer, your curry will definitely taste better.

5. Now add the garlic, ginger and green chillies and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the contents of the pestle and mortar, stir well, and sauté for about 10 minutes, until the mixture resembles a paste.

If the paste becomes a little dry and sticks to the pan, then just add a little water whenever you need, to help you achieve the required consistency. Add the fenugreek leaves and the roasted spices, stir well and cook for 1 minute.

6. Add the mushrooms, turn the heat to high and cook for 15 minutes. Remember that the mushrooms contain water, hence the reason the heat is turned up high for this particular dish.

7. Reduce the heat to simmer, chop the coriander stalks up finely and add to the pan. Stir and

place the lid on the pan, cooking for a further 10 minutes.

8. Remove from the heat, add the chopped fresh coriander leaves, lime juice and zest. Stir well. Remember to remove any cardamoms and cloves before serving. Serve with chapattis.

Roasted Almond & Coriander Chutney Maks: A large batch Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 5 minutes

Large bunch of fresh coriander including the stalks, finely chopped 50g roasted almonds 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp red chilli flakes ½ tsp fennel seeds ½ tsp fenugreek leaves

2 tsps mango powder 1 tsp pulped garlic 2 tsps pulped ginger 1 small bunch fresh mint leaves, chopped 1 tbsp brown sugar Juice and zest of half a lemon 1 tsp white wine vinegar 1 small mild red chilli, minced (optional) Sea salt to taste 1. Place a dry frying pan on a low heat, and warm the spices for 1 minute. Transfer to a pestle and mortar or a blender.

2. Combine all of the ingredients in the pestle and mortar or blender. Grind or blend to create a smooth or coarse chutney.

Store in a sterilised airtight jar in the fridge.

Recipes adapted from Spice for Life: Healthy and Wholesome Indian Cooking by Anjula Devi (£25, Clearview Books)

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So we’re asking you to take a couple of minutes to fill in the form opposite or log on and fill it in online at greatbritishfoodmagazine. com/survey.

On completion you’ll be automatically entered into a prize draw and could win one of ten professional quality Stellar’s Rocktanium sauté pans - worth £110!

THE PRIZES Slick, stylish and built to last, the Stellar Rocktanium collection is ideal for anyone who really loves to cook.

The range includes everything from a compact 14cm milk pan to a hardy 30cm frying pan, plus five and three piece saucepan sets – ideal if you're looking to refresh your cookware collection. All of the Stellar Rocktanium pans boast the same tough, non-stick coating; thanks to a revolutionary new titanium-based formula, Quantanium, this coating gives a scratch-resistant finish that is more durable than conventional non-stick.

Created from thick aluminium with an induction base to ensure even heat distribution on all hob types, the pans cover all of your cooking needs. The comfortable, stainless steel cast handles are strong and stable and enable each pan to be hung for easy storage. Dishwasher and oven safe to 210°C, and suitable for all hob types, they also come with a lifetime guarantee and a five-year nonstick guarantee. Combining excellent performance with an easy-clean, stylish finish, these pans are truly built to last.

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C H E E SE B OA R D

TRUE BLUE!

Our pick of the creamiest, veiniest and tastiest British blue cheeses around 1. CROPWELL BISHOP BLUE STILTON, CROPWELLBISHOPSTILTON.COM WAITROSE, HARRODS, FORTNUM AND MASON AND HAMISH JOHNSTON. SEE IN STORE FOR PRICES With its buttery texture and a complex flavour, you can see why people love this popular Stilton. It pairs well with honey, walnuts and pear.

2. SHEPHERDS PURSE HARROGATE BLUE, £3.50 FOR 170G, SHEPHERDSPURSE.CO.UK Soft, luxurious and creamy, this award-winning blue is wonderfully mellow and has a peppery finish.

3

4

2

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3. STICHELTON, £7.50 PER 250G, PAXTONANDWHITFIELD.CO.UK This striking cheese from Nottinghamshire is made using a traditional Stilton recipe, but with raw rather than pasteurised cows' milk. It's nutty and mild – great for blue cheese newcomers.

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Cheeseboard 89.indd 1

4. DEWLAY GARSTANG NICKY NOOK, £17.00 PER KILO, AVAILABLE FROM BOOTHS CHEESE COUNTERS, BOOTHS.CO.UK The latest cheese from these revered Lancashire cheesemakers is a smooth and velvety affair boasting a rich, bold flavour. It's also great when melted.

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5. MACKAYS APPLE & FIG CHUTNEY, £1.30, SHOP.MACKAYS.COM Bursting with apples and figs, this sharp and velvety chutney is just made for pairing with blue cheese. / 79

07/12/2017 17:13

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RECIPES | SRI LANKAN FOOD

A TASTE OF

SRI LANKA Characterised by its fragrant spices, fiery curries and liberal use of coconut, Sri Lankan cuisine is utterly unique and completely delicious – but still remains largely undiscovered for most of us. Get stuck in with these authentic recipes from chef Emily Dobbs! www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

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Egg Curry Serves: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 25 minutes

8 medium free-range eggs 3 tsps turmeric 3 tbsps vegetable oil 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds Handful of curry leaves 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 small green chillies, finely chopped 15g garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp roasted curry powder 1 cinnamon stick 4 Ortiz anchovies, chopped 200ml coconut milk Whole nutmeg, grated Sea salt and freshly ground Black pepper To serve:

Hoppers, rice or flatbreads 1. Boil the eggs for 5 minutes then carefully remove from the water with a slotted spoon and set aside. Once cool enough to handle, carefully peel

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the eggs. Pat dry, prick with a fork and roll in 2 tsps of the turmeric.

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the eggs in batches a couple of minutes at a time, turning over with a spoon until the outside has formed a crispy exterior and they are lightly golden all over.

Lift out with a slotted spoon and set aside.

3. In a small pan, heat the oil until just smoking then add the mustard seeds swiftly followed by the cumin seeds and curry leaves. Add the onion, green chillies, garlic and salt. Fry for a couple of minutes then add the chilli powder, remaining turmeric, curry powder, cinnamon and anchovies. Add the coconut milk with 100ml water and simmer for 5 minutes until the sauce has reduced and the flavours have combined. Season to taste.

4. Slice the eggs in half, or keep whole if you prefer, season then add to the sauce. Simmer all together for a couple of minutes and finish with a few scratches of whole nutmeg before removing from the pan and serve with rice or hoppers.

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Dhal Serves: 4-6 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus

soaking time Cook: 30 minutes

350g red split lentils 2 green chillies ½ garlic head, cut horizontally with skin on 1 tsp turmeric 1 cinnamon stick, broken in half 1 shallot, peeled 400ml coconut milk 2 tsps sea salt 175g spinach, washed 1 tsp chilli powder For the temper:

1 tbsp coconut oil 1 tsp mustard seeds Handful of curry leaves To serve (optional):

Flat bread Labneh or yoghurt Crispy onions 1. Soak the lentils in cold water while you get together the rest of your ingredients.

2. Drain the lentils and transfer to a large pan with 800ml water, the whole green chillies, garlic, turmeric, cinnamon and shallot and simmer on a low heat, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the coconut milk to the pan and cook for 15 minutes or until the lentils are soft. Then add the salt (you add it at the end as doing so beforehand prevents the lentils from cooking).

3. Once the lentils are cooked, turn off the heat and fish out the garlic and shallot with tongs and discard. Add the spinach and chilli powder to the lentils.

4. To make the temper, heat the oil in a small pan. Once it starts to smoke add the mustard seeds, quickly followed by the curry leaves. Pour into the dhal and serve with toppings and sides of your choice.

RECIPES | SRI LANKAN FOOD

Plain Egg Hoppers

“I have a real love for the humble hopper. Traditionally, egg and plain hoppers are served at breakfast or as a street-food snack in the towns of Sri Lanka. Once you have the recipe sorted, you can be as adventurous as you like with the fillings and could even add ground spices to the batter, or beetroot puree for an unconventional pink hopper; or swap the soda water for ginger beer/ beer. I love the balancing act of the crispy hopper and the oozy egg, perhaps with coconut sambol, roast peanuts and pungent mustard oil” Serves: 8-10 Prepare: 10 minutes plus

resting time Cook: 5 minutes per hopper

20g dried yeast 800ml coconut milk 1 tbsp caster sugar 300g red (or white) rice flour, sifted 300g tapioca flour, sifted, or 100g tapioca flour and 200g trisol 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda, sifted Around 500ml fizzy water 1 egg per serving to make an ‘egg’ hopper (optional) 1. Whisk the yeast, 400g of the coconut milk and caster sugar in a large bowl (the batter will rise!).

Wrap with clingfilm and leave for 40 minutes in a warm place.

2. Add the flours, the rest of the coconut milk, bicarbonate of soda and fizzy water to the consistency of double cream. Whisk and leave for a minimum of 2 hours (I usually leave overnight in a warm place unless in a hurry).

3. Once your hopper batter is bubbly and smells a bit like beer, it is ready. Heat a hopper pan or frying pan until it is hot but not smoking. Ladle about half a cup of batter into the pan and, once it starts to bubble, swivel a full 360-degree turn tocoat the sides of the pan. Crack an egg into the middle of the pancake, if you like.

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4. Cover the pan with a lid or tin foil and steam for 2–3 minutes until the sides of the hopper start to separate from the pan (and the egg is cooked, if using). With a wooden spatula, carefully remove the hopper and serve hot. Every time you use the hopper mix, give it a good stir with a whisk as the batter will separate. You can freeze the mix freshly made, but if not the batter only lasts a day or so.

Roast Spiced Chicken with Brown Sugar, Limes & Coconut Milk Serves: 4 Prepare: 15 minutes, plus marinating

and resting time Cook: 50 minutes

2kg free-range chicken, spatchcocked (ask your butcher to do this) ½ quantity chilli butter (see recipe below), melted 800ml coconut milk Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the marinade:

500g natural yoghurt or curd 50g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 50g garlic, peeled 1 tbsp chilli powder 1 tbsp turmeric 1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper For the brown sugar limes:

4 limes 2 tbsps coconut oil, melted 2 tbsps brown sugar To serve:

Chopped fresh herbs Pomegranate seeds

Recipes taken from Weligama by Emily Dobbs (£25, Seven Dials)

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1. First, make the marinade. Whizz everything in a blender, or grate the ginger and garlic into a bowl and combine with the yoghurt and spices using a wooden spoon.

Cover the chicken with the marinade, inside and out. Leave overnight in the fridge or for at least a couple of hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and find a roasting tin that allows the chicken to fit snugly inside. Fit the bird in the roasting tin with the coconut milk and cook on the middle shelf for 45–50 minutes. A large 2kg chicken should cook perfectly during this time.

3. Meanwhile, cut the limes in half and put in a bowl. Mix in the oil and sugar and place skin side down on a baking tray with most of the sugar on the flesh. Place on the top shelf of the oven in the last 20 minutes of cooking.

Check the chicken is cooked by slicing the skin between the leg and the breast and seeing if the juices run clear. If so, the chicken is ready.

4. Put the chicken juices and coconut milk that remain in the tin through a sieve and season

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to taste with more salt or brown sugar if necessary.

Transfer the chicken to a warm serving plate and leave to rest for at least 20 and up to 40 minutes uncovered, then serve it with the sieved sauce, the brown sugar limes, some chopped fresh herbs and pomegranate seeds.

Chilli Butter Makes: 4 Prepare: 20 minutes Cook: 20 minutes

250g salted butter, softened 4 red bird’s-eye chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 1 tsp chilli powder 2 tsp turmeric 1 tsp smoked paprika 15g garlic, peeled (optional) Put everything in a blender or mix with a whisk in a bowl.

Store in a plastic container in the fridge.

GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:54 Page 85

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Just the Tonic!

All of the gins and mixers you need for your 2018 drinks cabinet 1. Orkney Gin Company Rhubarb Old Tom, £38.42, masterofmalt.com Get your hands on this award-winning gin while you can (it sells out fast!). It contains rhubarb from Orkney island and we love the stoneware bottle too.

6. Condessa Sloe Gin, £18.89, condessa.co.uk A Welsh-made gin packed with plump, seasonal sloes – just the thing to warm your cockles on a cold wintry day!

11. Dà Mhìle, £29.95, masterofmalt.com Designed to complement seafood, this is infused with foraged seaweed from the Celtic coast which imparts a uniquely green hue – a real conversation starter!

2. Poetic License Old Tom Gin, £34.95, masterofmalt.com This is delightfully unique and features hints of rose as well as some oaky notes. It's lovely served over ice with a splash of ginger beer and a squeeze of lime.

7. Slake Spirits Sussex Dry Gin, £35, slakespirits.com Featuring locally foraged ingredients from Sussex and the South Downs, this juniper and citrus led gin is particularly nice in a negroni or martini.

12. Darnleys Spiced Gin, £33.95, kingsbarnsdistillery.com

3. Liverpool Gin, harveynichols.com, see in store for prices This aromatic small batch gin from Liverpool features angelica, citrus and coriander as well as hand picked juniper berries.

Serve with orange zest and mint leaves.

8. City of London Dry Gin, see in store for prices, thewhiskyexchange.com Once a popular distiller back in 1800s London, City of London reopened in 2012 and produces a delicious gin with hints of juniper, angelica, liquorice, coriander and grapefruit.

13. Portobello Road No. 171 Gin, £26, waitrose.com Tonic water, plenty of ice and a twist of grapefruit is all you need to pour the perfect serve of this popular English gin.

4. Curio Fly Navy Gin, £36, curiospiritscompany.co.uk A wonderful blend made with Cornish wild heather and vanilla. It tastes of flowers and citrus and is great on its own or in a G&T.

9. Manchester Raspberry Infused Gin, £39.95, harveynichols.com Containing dandelion and burdock root as well as a not too sugary raspberry kick, this award-winning gin is great on its own, with tonic, or when added to a glass of Champagne.

5. Indian Summer Gin, £24.99, thespiritembassy.com Deliciously different, this gin has a golden yellow hue and a warm, rich and earthy flavour thanks to being infused with saffron.

Spiced with a tasty blend of berries, seeds, peels and roots, this is a wonderfully warming gin from the Scottish producers of Wemyss whisky.

14. Isle of Wight Distillery Mermaid Gin, see in store for prices, available from isleofwightdistillery.com and local stores Hand-picked samphire, locally grown hops and England's first commercially grown coriander seeds all feature in this tasty gin.

15. Lamb & Watt Tonic Water, see in store for prices, drinksupermarket.com Made with spring water from the Lake Distict, these premium mixers come in orignial, hibiscus, cucumber and basil flavours, making them the ideal partner whatever the gin.

10. Marylebone London Dry Gin, selfridges.com, see in store for prices It tastes as nice as it looks and is flavoured with a delicate blend of lemon balm, lime flower, chamomile, grapefruit and cloves. Yum!

PERFECT YOUR SERVE! Don't miss these gins, tonics and glasses...

Liberty London Old Tom Gin, £30, libertylondon.com

LSA Gin Balloon Glasses, £26, lakeland.co.uk

Fentimans Pink Grapefruit Tonic Water, £1.40, waitrose.com

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Premium small batch gin hand-crafted in Orkney

www.orkneygincompany.co.uk

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:56 Page 90

Fresh, chilled and remarkably delicious…

Royal Indian curry sauces Inspired by the royal palace kitchens of India, our award winning fresh gourmet curry cooking sauces are traditionally slow cooked by hand for layers of deep, intense ‘zaika’ (taste).

Convenience without the guilt!

The four sauces in the range, King Korma, Royal Dopiaza, Queen Bhuna and Raging Raja contain only simple, high quality kitchen cupboard ingredients that you can trust.

* Gluten free * Low fat * Low salt * No added anything

Discover the joys of real Indian cooking in your own home!

For stockists and to order online please visit the website at www.theartofcurry.co.uk Email info@theartofcurry.co.uk

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X X X X X X X X | A- Z O F S P I C E S

Amchoor to Za’atar:

A-Z OF

SPICES

The spice of life, it’s what we’re all after.

Luckily for us, it’s easier to find in the kitchen rather than seeking beyond the stove. Gareth May compiles a simple dictionary of compelling curry-friendly spices and herbs, with the help of Indian chef Hari Ghotra

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A

mchoor

North Indian powder made from ground early-season unripe green mangoes. Once peeled, they’re thinly sliced, and dried in the sun.

“Ground into a fine brown powder, amchoor has a sweet fragrance and a very special sour flavour that is used in dishes to give an acidic fruity tang,” Ghotra says. Flavour notes: sour, tangy, fruity.

B

Spice blend from Lebanon, Syria, Israel, and Jordan that translates as ‘spice’ in Arabic and is predominantly used as a flavourenhancing rub. Often a traditional family-made mix, the recipe varies from region to region but typically includes coriander, black pepper, cumin, and nutmeg. Flavour notes: savoury, sweet, heat.

D

Sturdy little angular sand-coloured stones with a strong bitter flavour and scent; they’re generally fried before use to intensify the flavour. “These seeds are popular in commercial curry powders because they give off those very characteristic curry aromatics,” Ghotra says. “Iconic fenugreek flavoured dishes include Kharee from the Punjab, which is a yogurt based dish, and in the south it forms the base of spice powders used to cook sambhar, a spicy lentil and vegetable dish.” Flavour notes: nutty, bittersweet, harsh.

H

A staple in North African cuisine where it is used as a condiment like ketchup, this complex flavoured paste is made up of chilli, spices, and herbs and when mixed with tomato juice or water can be added to stews and soup or served with some dunking bread. Flavour notes: smoky, hot, lemon.

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pazote

An aromatic herb from Mexico with origins in Aztec cuisine, similar to oregano and fennel. A Marmite ingredient, some say it tastes like petrol, others lemon. Due to its potency only a few sprigs are ever added to a dish. In its native country it’s added to bean dishes because it is believed to reduce flatulence. Flavour notes: minty, pine.

enugreek Seeds

arissa

Yellow-brown oval shaped dried seed of a herb from the parsley family. “The most commonly used spice in Indian cooking, where it is known as jeera. It is also the key base spice of garam masala,” Ghotra says.

“Used as a whole spice and tempered in oil to allow its aromatics to penetrate it forms a lovely partner along with mustard seeds, especially in vegetarian dishes.”

Flavour notes: warm, pungent.

E

ukkah

Egyptian speciality blend of crushed nuts, spices, and herbs served as an appetiser with flatbreads.

Also used to coat meats and fish.

Flavour notes: nutty, hot.

F

C

umin Seeds

aharat

G

inger

“Known as Athrak in India this root is an absolute basic for Indian cooking. It adds a distinct freshness and a little spicy heat.

Ginger sits alongside onions and garlic as the third musketeer for Indian masala sauces,” Ghotra says. A top tip: grate ginger in bulk and freeze in ice-cube trays; it freezes really well and you can pop out one cube when you need it. Flavour notes: citrus aroma, fresh, gentle heat, warmth.

J

uniper Berries

A popular ingredient for the hunters of this world, the culinary use of the crushed berries dates back to American Indians who cooked them with wild buffalo. Flavour notes: tart.

K

affir Lime Leaves

These dark green leaves are a key ingredient in many Thai dishes. Used in a similar way to bay leaves they are removed from the pot before serving. In Vietnam their fragrance is used to mask the smell of steaming snails!

Flavour notes: citrus.

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X X X X X X X X | A- Z O F S P I C E S

M

ace

The red outer lace that surrounds the nutmeg seed. Ground or dried blades give off a very delicate nutmeg flavouring. “If using fresh mace you will find there is a beautiful red glow transported into the food resulting in a warm, reddish hue,” Ghotra says. “It's mainly used in South Indian dishes. In some areas mace is used in the regional garam masala blend.” Flavour notes: nutmeg.

O

N

Reportedly found in Tutankhamen’s tomb, these dinky seeds have an oniony punch though they’re not related to the onion family. Can be called kalonji. Common topping for naan breads. Flavour notes: subtle bitterness.

rris Root

Once a Western herbal medicine and now mostly used as a base note in perfumery and potpourri and also as a botanical in gins. As a powder it is added to the North African spice mixture Ras el hanout. Flavour notes: raspberry.

R

Y

Familiar pinkish buds and a regular in Middle Eastern cooking where they’re added to tagines and stuffing.

They’re also stirred into rice to impart floral notes.

Flavour notes: bitter, sweet.

Mexican dry rub of annatto seeds, onion, garlic, cumin and cloves often mixed with lime or orange juice. Flavour notes: spicy, mild

Q

uatre Épices ‘Four spices’. Used in French cuisine and Middle Eastern dishes it contains ground pepper, cloves, nutmeg and ginger. Flavour notes: peppery, heat.

T

osebuds

ucatan Spice Blend

igella Seeds

V Z

amarind

This mouth-tingling paste comes from the fruit pulp of a tree native to India where the fruit hangs down in brown pods. “Tamarind can be bought as a hard block of pulp which needs to be rehydrated in hot water, as a concentrate which is black in colour or as a lighter paste,” Ghotra says. “I prefer to use the blocks as I think you get the real tamarind flavour which doesn’t always come through from the jar products.”

Flavour notes: fruity, tangy, sour, tart.

adouvan

The French take on curry powder. Consists of turmeric, cumin, curry leaves and coriander with the added bonus of grated shallots. Flavour notes: spicy.

W

asabi

Ignore the imitation paste found in supermarket sushi, that’s mostly horseradish.

The real deal is a rhizome water crop best served fresh, grated through a sharkskin grater.

British wasabi is grown in Dorset in Victorian watercress beds. Flavour notes: clean, minty, spicy.

a’atar

Both the name given to a long green leafed herb sometimes called wild thyme, which grows in the Syrian-Lebanese mountains, and also common spice blend used in Middle Eastern cooking comprising sesame seeds, oregano, marjoram, sumac and cumin.

Flavour notes: nutty, fruity, tangy.

The Easy Indian Slow Cooker Cookbook by Hari Ghotra is out now for 12.99.

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SWEET, SOUR & SPICY Famed London chef Sebby Holmes is known for putting a modern spin on regional Thai food. These delicious dishes are ideal for cooks looking to experiment with refreshing and adventurous flavours Grilled Bananas & Tamarind Caramel Serves: 2 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 10 minutes 50ml palm sugar 1 tbsp condensed milk 50ml thick tamarind water 2 bananas, sliced in half lengthways with the skins still on 1 tsp sesame oil Âź tsp flaked sea salt 1. Begin by making the caramel. In a small nonstick saucepan, gently melt the palm sugar and condensed milk in the tamarind water. Continue to gently boil the mixture until the sugar begins to caramelise and the resulting caramel starts to thicken. This will not take too long, so stay with it.

The caramel should be thick enough to cling to a spoon, yet loose enough to slowly pour off it.

2. Meanwhile, grill the bananas. Lightly coat the flesh with the sesame oil and grill for 3 minutes on each side. Grilling the skin too helps to soften the banana within. Serve the bananas with generous helpings of caramel and a sprinkling of sea salt.

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RECIPES | THAI COOKING

“In my version of pad thai, I like to use brown crab meat and melt it around the prawns with a few dried shrimp for a luxurious taste of the sea. However, you can just use a few prawns if you want to save some pennies”

Crab & Shrimp Pad Thai with Chilli Oil Serves: 3 Prepare: 10 minutes, plus soaking time Cook: 10 minutes 100g palm sugar 100ml thick tamarind water 30ml vegetable oil 10 Thai shallots, peeled and thickly sliced (or banana shallots) 6 prawns, shells removed and deveined 1 tsp dried shrimp 2 tbsps brown crab meat 2 medium eggs, beaten 150g flat vermicelli rice noodles, soaked for at least 2 hours in cold water 2-3 tbsps fish sauce 10g Chinese chives (or other chives), chopped 2 tsps smoked chilli powder 20g fresh tofu, fried in a little vegetable oil until golden brown

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and crispy on the outside and soft on the inside 10g toasted peanuts, lightly crushed 1 tbsp pickled garlic, thinly sliced (optional) 10g beansprouts 10g coriander, chopped, to ganish 50ml chilli oil 1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve 1. The trick with a pad thai is to have all the ingredients within arm’s reach of a hot wok. The only thing that needs preparing in advance is the tamarind sugar.

In a small saucepan on a medium heat, gently melt the palm sugar in the tamarind water, stirring constantly until there are no lumps left. Set aside with all the other ingredients.

2. Heat the oil in a large wok on a high heat and add the Thai shallots, prawns and dried shrimp.

Toss until the prawns are almost cooked and the shallots begin to

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turn golden brown. Add the brown crab meat and toss a few times; it should mostly melt into the sizzling oil and coat the prawns.

3. Add the eggs and scramble for 30 seconds. Immediately after this, add the noodles, making sure not to add too much of the soaking water to the wok. Stirfry the noodles by stirring them constantly so that they don’t stick to the bottom of the wok.

Spread them across the surface of the wok as much as possible to ensure even cooking. They are ready for the next stage when they begin to turn translucent.

4. Add two-thirds of the tamarind sugar to the wok and pour it around the sides; this ensures

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that it comes into direct contact with the heat from the wok and caramelises as it dribbles down into the noodles. Toss the noodles in the sauce; the noodles should be dark brown, with no black bits.

If they look too light, then add the rest of the tamarind sugar in the same way.

5. Reduce the heat and add 2 tablespoons of the fish sauce, the Chinese chives, 1 tsp of the chilli powder, the tofu, half the peanuts, the pickled garlic and beansprouts, and toss all the ingredients through to warm.

Check for seasoning: the dish should be sweet, fishy and savoury, with a smoky chilli kick.

If it’s too sweet, add the remaining

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tbsp of fish sauce. Sprinkle the noodles with the coriander and serve on a large plate with the remaining peanuts and chilli powder, the chilli oil and lime wedges on the side.

Lime Granita with Fresh Pineapple, Coconut Cream & Sea Salt Serves: 6–8 servings Prepare: 15 minutes, plus freezing time Cook: 10 minutes 180g caster sugar A pinch of coarse sea salt 4 kaffir lime leaves, torn to release their flavour

RECIPES | THAI COOKING

1 stick of lemongrass, bruised 150ml soda water 350ml lime juice (1 lime usually yields 20–25ml) ½ small pineapple (about 150g), peeled and roughly diced 100ml coconut cream, to serve 1. This works well with any fresh fruit but, if you find yourself anywhere near an Asian supermarket, stock up on rambutan, lychee and mangoes.

The sharpness of the lime granita is a treat when balanced with lovely sweet fruit.

2. In a large saucepan, heat 180ml water, the caster sugar, a pinch of salt, the lime leaves and lemongrass until the sugar has dissolved and the flavours have fused together; this should take 8–10 minutes on a medium heat. Discard the lime leaves and lemongrass.

3. Add the soda water and lime juice to the pan and stir gently (try not to stir all the bubbles out of the soda water). Pour into a freezer-proof container with a lid and freeze. Take out every hour and, using a fork, scrape the granita so that you end up with fluffy ice, rather than one big block of ice. It should take about 4 hours to freeze.

4. To serve, put a generous portion of pineapple in a bowl, top with a scoop of granita and pour over a little coconut cream.

Sprinkle with a small pinch of sea salt.

Aromatic Beef Braised in Coconut Cream and Ginger

"Using coconut cream and fish sauce instead of stock and salt to braise beef produces some seriously amazing results. The trick to this dish is low and slow; let the heat of the oven do all the work” Serves: 2 Prepare: 15 minutes Cook: 6 hours

400g beef shin, excess fat removed and chopped into 3cm chunks 50ml good-quality olive oil 1 tbsp coarse sea salt 2 sticks lemongrass, bruised 4 kaffir lime leaves, torn 2 long red chillies, bruised 15g Thai shallots, peeled and left whole (or any small, sweet shallot) 20g ginger, peeled and fine julienned 600–700ml coconut cream (enough to submerge the beef) 1 heaped tbsp of tamarind paste 20–25ml fish sauce 1 heaped tbsp soft brown sugar 10g coriander leaves, torn, to garnish 10g Thai sweet basil (or Italian basil), torn, to garnish steamed jasmine rice, to serve 1. Massage the olive oil and salt into the beef with your hands to ensure all the meat gets a good coating. Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1. In a large ovenproof tray, add the beef, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves,

long red chillies, Thai shallots, two-thirds of the ginger, the coconut cream, tamarind paste, fish sauce and sugar. Check all the ingredients are completely submerged in the coconut cream, then tightly wrap the tray in foil to protect the contents from the direct heat of the oven.

Place the tray on the middle shelf of the oven and cook for 5–6 hours.

2. Check the beef is cooked properly – you should be able to break up the pieces of meat with a spoon it is so tender. When you are satisfied the beef is ready, taste the coconut broth to ensure you are happy with the seasoning. It should be delicately sweet from the coconut cream and moreishly salty from the fish sauce. Add a little more of either if you think necessary.

3. Serve the stew in bowls topped with the remaining ginger and the coriander and basil. This dish is great served with steamed jasmine rice.

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Recipes taken from Cook Thai

by Sebby Holmes, published by Kyle Books (£19.99) Photography by Tom Regester

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THE SPICE IS RIGHT!

From time-saving curry kits to delicious spiced snacks, we've got your Indian food cravings covered!

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YOUR INDIAN FEAST 1. Pure Punjabi The Complete Spice Collection Meal Box, £99, purepunjabi.co.uk This luxury meal box contains all the spices you need to make curries, chutneys and rice dishes. Inside there are 162 portions (or 42 family meals) so it's a great investment for curry lovers.

2. East End Butter Ghee, £4.50 ocado.com Cooking with ghee adds a beautifully rich and nutty taste to your food.

3. Tefal Chapati Pan, £19.99 lakeland.co.uk Perfect for frying all kinds of flatbreads.

4. Nishaan Plain Parathas, £1.05 ocado.com Fry these parathas in ghee for a few minutes for a delicious side dish.

5. Wharfe Valley Red Chilli Rapeseed Oil, £7 for 500g wharfevalleyfarms.co.uk A golden oil with a warming whack of chilli heat – perfect for curries.

6. Hop Back Brewery Summer Lightning, £1.79 ocado.com This light and hobby brew is the perfect partner for spicy food.

7. East End Balti Mix, £1.25 ocado.com A hot and spicy snack that's packed with flavour.

8. Geeta's Premium Mango Chutney, see in store for prices, Available at selected Tesco, Waitrose and Sainsbury's One of the best mango chutneys we've tasted.

15. Hari Ghotra Korma Curry Kit £3.50 harighotra.co.uk An easy-to-use kit for making a beautifully aromatic korma curry.

9. Thornbridge Jaipur India Pale Ale, £1.80 waitrose.com A vibrant and refreshing American-style IPA.

16. Tastesmiths Makhani/ Madras D.I.Y Curry Kits £3.50 tastesmiths.com

10. Ocado Counter Hake Fillets, £8 for 500g ocado.com The firm white flesh of hake stands up very well to all kinds of spices.

11. Daylesford Organic Beef Shin, £7.99 for 500g ocado.com Beef shin is the ultimate cut for slow-cooked curries.

12. Tala Extra Hot Curry Measure, £12.99 wayfair.co.uk This handy measure shows you how much you need of each spice to make the recipes featured in an accompanying booklet.

13. Mr Todiwala's Minted Mango & Ginger Relish £4 mrtodiwala.com A beautifully fresh tasting sauce that's fabulous on burgers or in a cheese toastie.

14. Mr Todiwala's Wild Boar Vindaloo Pickle, £5.50 mrtodiwala.com A deliciously different pickle made with diced wild boar.

Containing fresh aromatics like garlic, ginger, chilli and curry leaves, these kits make amazing-tasting curries.

17. Bart Curry Leaves, £1.99 ocado.com Curry leaves add a subtle punch to all kinds of Indian dishes.

18. Mango Chutney with Lime & Ginger, £2.80 mrsbridges.co.uk Lime and ginger add a lovely freshness to this chutney.

19. Nishaan Mathi Salted Tea Snack, £1.65 ocado.com A crispy and indulgent snack that's delicious with a cup of chai.

20. Tala Chapatti Pin, £8.14 amazon.co.uk A great tool for rolling super thin flatbreads.

LEARN FROM THE EXPERTS

KITCHEN HELPERS

Set in the beautiful East Yorkshire countryside, Yorkshire Wolds cookery school is the perfect place to brush up on your kitchen skills. We love the sound of Inspirational Indian Cuisine, headed up by expert Sharmini Thomas. As part of the course you'll learn how to work with the key spices of Indian cuisine, using them to make a starter, two main courses, a side dish, bread or rice and a dessert. £140, yorkshirewoldscookeryschool.co.uk

Tasty buys to enhance your Indian cooking Curry on Cooking Bombay Potatoes, £2.99 curryoncooking.com Ghee Easy, £6 from Sainsbury’s stores

The Art of Curry Royal Dopiaza Sauce, £4.99. Stockists at theartofcurry.co.uk 100 /

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Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School

CURRY ON COOKING

• NEW for 2018 Inspirational Indian Cuisine with Sharmini Thomas • A range of courses suitable for everyone from £40-£150 • 4 star accommodation available on site

Curry Kits – 100% Healthy Ingredients These lip-smacking Currylicious kits include a shopping list and recipe to create the Great British Curry

www.yorkshirewoldscookeryschool.co.uk Southburn, Driffield, East Yorkshire, YO25 9AF

Tel: 01377 270607

We run Indian cookery courses in beautiful, tranquil surroundings at Akinon Resort in Spain.

Join us 15th-20th Feb 12th-17th April 2018

Email: keepcalm@curryoncooking.com

www.curryoncooking.com | 07884 188764 CurryOnCooking

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@Curry_Kits

curry_on_cooking

CurryOnCooking

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GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:31 Page 102

Use promo code: GB2018 at the checkout to receive an additional 5% of f

Indian Fire Bowls & Accessories Perfect for cooking curries whilst keeping warm outside

Call now: 01245 906366 www.indianfirebowlcompany.co.uk

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TRIED & TESTED

CULTURE CLUB

From dairy free to goat's milk varieties, there's plenty going on in the yogurt aisle! Here are some of our current 1. The Coconut Collaborative Dairy Free Natural Coconut Yogurt, £1.69 for 120g ocado.com Free from dairy, gluten and soya, this delicious yogurt has a lovely subtle coconut flavour that isn't too overpowering. Great in dips, smoothies and with tropical fruit.

2. Village Dairy Raspberry Yogurt, £1.50 from Tesco stores in Wales. More stockists at villagedairy.co.uk Nicely rich, with a light and fluffy texture, this offering from Welsh producer Village Dairy has a naturally sweet raspberry flavour that will please the whole family.

3. Yeo Valley Organic Bio Light Blueberry & Blackcurrant Yogurt, £2.50 for 4 x 100g pots ocado.com These fruity yogurts contain just 65 calories per pot, but from the thick texture and indulgent taste you'd never know!

4. St Helen's Farm Natural Goat's Milk Yogurt, £2.40 for 450g waitrose.com This fresh and creamy yogurt has a clean, subtle flavour with none of the 'goaty' taste you might expect. Great in sweet or savoury dishes.

5. Delamere Plain Goats Milk Yogurt, £2.25 for 450g, available Asda, Morrisons and Ocado.com Cheshire-based Delamere are renowned for their supremely creamy goat's cheese, and their yogurt doesn't disappoint either! It makes a great base for a marinade, can be served with curry or swirled into fruit and granola for breakfast.

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Your ultimate guide to...

KITCHEN KIT The start of a new year is the perfect time to freshen up your kitchen. From gorgeous ceramics to handy gadgets, we've got lots of ideas for making your home more beautiful!

Classic Superfast Thermapen, £51.60 thermapen.co.uk Ensure perfectly cooked food every time with this sleek digital thermometer

YOUR KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

There's no reason why practical cooking kit can't be stylish

Umbra Tub Dish Rack in Teal, £15 redcandy.co.uk This colourful dish rack will certainly liven up your sink area.

Thermo Jug in Blue, £40 inthehaus.co.uk This Scandi-style jug keeps your hot drinks hot and cold drinks cold!

Le Creuset Cast Iron 30cm Shallow Casserole in Rosemary, £209 hartsofstur.com A colourful and robust casserole dish that will last a lifetime.

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KITCHEN KIT GUIDE

Joseph Joseph Citrus Reamer, £8.49 abraxascookshop.com This citrus reamer has a rubber cup underneath the head which catches any debris whilst allowing juice to drain through.

Stellar Rocktanium 5 Piece Set, around £134.

Stockists at stellarcookware.co.uk An all-round great non-stick pan collection that you'll use everyday.

Joseph Joseph Large Silver Index Board Set, £50.99 abraxascookshop.com Designed to prevent cross-contamination, this set contains four colour coded non-slip boards for different food types.

Professional Measuring Cups, £13.99 abraxascookshop.com These sturdy stainlesssteel cups are great for speedy measuring and double up perfectly as scoops for dry ingredients.

Pico 15 Stackable Wine Rack in Brass, £120 redcandy.co.uk Display your wine collection in style with this honeycombinspired rack.

Falk 35cm x 23cm Copper Roasting Pan, £255 falkculinair.co.uk Style and functionality combine beautifully in this hardy roasting pan.

Sanelli Knives, from £12.75 (plus ​VAT​)​, ​ weschenfelder.co.uk The professional standard knives from Italian brand Sanelli are hard-wearing and really affordable, and come in all shapes and sizes.

Verona Single-Walled 1 Litre Glass Teapot, RRP £27 inthehaus.co.uk This pretty teapot can be used with loose leaf teas or tea flowers for perfect extractions.

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15% off Emma Bridgewater and 20% off Le Creuset FOR LIMITED TIME

info@abraxascookshop.com

www.abraxascookshop.com 01327-341080 10.00am – 5.00pm daily

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KITCHEN KIT GUIDE

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FABULOUS FABRICS

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From quirky tea towels to hard-wearing oven gloves – beautiful textiles to add that final flourish to your space 3.

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1. Primula Print Tea Towel In Yellow, £12 elsieandfleur.co.uk 2. Blue Tea Towel, £9.99 tkmaxx.com 3. Delicious Bee Tea Towel, £9.99 shop.perkinsandmorley.com 4. AGA Best In Show Cooks Pad, £14.95 britishtextile-company.com

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5. Scandi Blue & White Fabric ven Glove, £12.00 tch.net 6. Flamingo Napkins Set of 4, £15 sophieallport.com

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7. Confetti Napkin by Georgia Bosson in Lime, £11 nisiliving.co.uk 8. Bloom Tea Towel in Radish, £24.95 , torimurphy.com 9. Lobster Apron, £24 thornbackandpeel.co.uk

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Diamond Cut Tall Basket, £15.95 redcandy.co.uk Show off your apples and pears in style with this fun geometric bowl.

FINE DINING

Vibrant tableware to spruce up your dining space

Da Terra Set of 2 Blue Rose Placemats, £16 nisiliving.co.uk Chic linen placemats with neon piping for a modern splash of colour.

Set Of 2 Antique Brass Platters in Green, £65 nisiliving.co.uk These gorgeous brass platters can be used as food trays or for displaying your vases, candles and other treasures Emma Bridgewater Rainbow Dots Collection, from £17.95 emmabridgewater.co.uk This is the new spring collection from the iconic ceramic designer – we love the cheery design and vibrant colours.

Hotel Collection 16 Piece Copper Cutlery Set, £75.00 houseoffraser.co.uk A glitzy but hardwearing cutlery set that's perfect for dinner parties.

Salt & Pepper Set with Oak Stoppers, £18 redcandy.co.uk These stylish condiment pots perfectly capture the simplicity of Scandinavian design.

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KITCHEN KIT GUIDE

Set of 4 Cherry Placements £35, thornbackandpeel.co.uk Add a pop of bright cherry red to mealtimes with this set of melamine placemats.

Astratto Crockery Range.

From £32 for a teapot oliverbonas.com Have an artful afternoon tea with this stylish bone china tea set, decorated with an abstract floral print.

Set of Four Pea Pod Coasters, £15 thornbackandpeel.co.uk We love the 60s-inspired pea green pattern of these coasters.

Sainsbury's Home Riviera Raindrops Mug, £4.25. Stores nationwide.

Nautical style with a modern twist

Bloom Small Rectangle Tray In Mustard, £29.95 torimurphy.com Finished with a gold trim, this beautiful tray makes serving drinks or food that little bit more special.

Sainsbury's Home Meadow Runner, £12.00 The pretty blue print of this cotton runner is perfect for countrystyle kitchens.

Embossed Side Plate in Coral, £12.50 alresfordlinen.co.uk This pretty side plate is available in plenty of colours, so you can mix and match.

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KITCHEN KIT GUIDE

1.

CRACKING CROCKERY

3.

Vibrant plates, bowls and mugs are an easy way of adding character and colour to your kitchen

2.

4.

5.

1. Klevering Brush Blue Mugs set of 2 printerandtailor.com 2. T&G Pride of Place Teapot in Old Green, £29.99. Stockists at tg-woodware.com

6.

3. David Weidman Coffee Pot, £45 magpieline.com

7.

4. Bruni Espresso Cups (set of 3), £20 pib-home.co.uk 5. Scandi Blue & White Large Ceramic Jug, £20.00 tch.net 6. Sainsbury's Home Helsinki Ceramic Stackable Jar Printed in Yellow, £6 from stores nationwide

8.

7. Hygena Taper 16 Piece Stoneware Dinner Set in Yellow/ Grey, £39.99 argos.co.uk 8. T&G Stone Butter Dish, £18.99, Stockists at tg-woodware.com

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Stopham Estate

Wine made with precision by the top English white wine specialists.

Contact us for information.

Contact: 01798 865666 info@stophamvineyard.co.uk www.stophamvineyard.co.uk

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DISCOV E R B RI TA I N

SUSSEX

7 Delicious things to eat, drink and do

With its vast beaches, expansive farmland and much-loved coastal hotspots, Sussex is a haven for foodies, particularly when it comes to English wine, cheese, artisan chocolate and cosy pubs – hurrah! www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com Discover Sussex 89.indd 111

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1. Learn all about Sussex wine

Home to large commercial vineyards and ideal winegrowing terrain (think south-facing sloping fields, a warm climate and similar soil to France's Champagne region), it's no surprise Sussex produces more wine than any other county in the UK. And Stopham Vineyard is a producer whose wines you need to try. The vineyard benefits from a spectacular location – next to the River Arun in the South Downs National Park in West Sussex – and you can take full advantage of this setting with one of their vineyard and winery tours, led by winemakers Simon and Tom, which take place most Saturdays between April and October (there's also the option to have lunch by the river!) Stopham Vineyard produces an impressive selection of English wines including white made from Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Bacchus grapes as well as sparkling and rosé varieties.

They also boast some high end clients too, with their wine even being served at Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. stophamvineyard.co.uk

2. Taste some awardwinning cheese

West Sussex's family-run cheese and dairy farm, High Weald Dairy, started producing cheese in the 1980s. Today, they make awardwinning cow, sheep and goat's milk cheeses and their Brighton Blue was recently certified 'Super Gold' in the 2017 World Cheese Awards. They're also well known for making English versions of European classics such as Halloumi and Feta, with great results.

Fancy learning how to make some of their delicious cheese for yourself?

Join them on a day class which includes a tasting and dairy tour. highwealddairy.co.uk

from Selsey and fish from Portslade and Littlehampton. Not only that, they also serve over 25 English wines – a perfect introduction to this area's significant wine output. hshotels.co.uk

3. Treat yourself to a luxurious break at Ockenden Manor

This stunning Elizabethan manor boasts 28 bedrooms, a spa and eight acres of beautiful grounds and is just the place for a relaxing break in Sussex. On top of the hotel's sumptuous facilities and idyllic location, the food served is a celebration of Sussex produce.

Ockenden Manor's award-winning head chef Steve Crane has devised a menu that features all sorts of local gems including crab and lobster 114 /

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DISCOV E R B RI TA I N

4. Try Sussex dry Gin

Slake Spirits is an independent artisan distillery based in Shorehamby-Sea, West Sussex. Its gins are strongly rooted in the natural world; the stills that are used to make the spirit are powered by solar energy and locally grown ingredients are hand foraged and added to the gin. Owner Tom Martin-Wells even grows his own lemon verbena and lemon balm! In addition to the juniper-led Sussex Dry gin, Slake Spirits also produces its popular Hedgerow Gin, made with hand-foraged autumnal fruits and spices.

The handmade element is key throughout Slake Spirits' output, with the bottles being hand filled, hand labelled and sealed in wax too – the perfect

souvenir or gift to take home with you. slakespirits.com

5. Head to the Sussex coast

Boasting more than 80 miles of coastline, Sussex is just the place for beach dwellers and Brighton & Hove, Bognor and Worthing all attract visitors in their droves. For a taste of historic Sussex, we recommend heading to the charming town of Rye where you'll find cobbled streets, aged pubs and seafood aplenty. Go to The Mermaid Inn pub (mermaidinn. com) for a tipple in a former smugglers' stronghold which dates back to 1420 and The Globe Inn Marsh (globeinnmarshrye.com) for gastro-pub quality food in a laid back and cosy pub environment. Just up the road you'll find Camber Sands – two miles of beautiful sand dunes

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which provide plenty of opportunities for coastal walks and picnics in warmer weather.

6. Spend a foodie weekend in Brighton

Brighton has it all; whether you want fish and chips on the beach, tasty vegetarian fare at Terre à Terre (terreaterre.co.uk) or eclectic small plates and social dining at 64 Degrees (64degrees. co.uk), there's no shortage of delights for the intrepid foodie.

But it's not all about dinner; from chocolate walking tours (chocolateecstasytours.com) to ethical supermarkets (hisbe.co.uk) and expertly cooked fish tasting menus (saltroom-restaurant. co.uk), you're guaranteed to find something for everyone. To sleep, we can't recommend the Artist Residence, a charming boutique hotel on the sea front, enough (artistresidencebrighon.co.uk).

7. Pass some time in Sussex's country pubs

Given the amount of fantastic pubs Sussex has to offer, it'd be foolish not to sink a pint or two during your stay.

One of our favourites, The Crown in Hastings (thecrownhastings. co.uk), is just the place to while away an afternoon, or longer! Just a moment's walk from the beach, The Crown serves a fine selection of local ales, craft beers and locally sourced food (don't miss their Sussex cheeseboard), all served within a friendly and warm environment.

Over in Ticehurst, former 16th Century coaching inn The Bell Inn (thebellinnticehurst.com) is the perfect bolthole for a pitstop after a busy day exploring the nearby High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Delicious Products to Try From Sussex THE COUNTY'S FINEST LOCAL FARE Sussex Valley Garlic Mayonnaise, £2.25 thecondimentco.co.uk This Sussex-based condiment company has been producing mayonnaise (as well as dipping sauces, dressings and mustard) since 1986 and we love the creamy richness of this mayonnaise.

Montezuma's Dark Chocolate with Ginger Bar, £2.60 for 100g, ocado.com The couple behind British artisan chocolate makers Montezuma's started their company in 2000. Now, as well as being stocked by major retailers, they also have their own shops in Brighton, Chichester and London. Their bestselling 100% cocoa bar is quite something, as is this ginger and dark chocolate delight.

Sweet Sussex Thins, horshamgingerbread.co.uk Made with Sussex-grown linseed meal, these moreish biscuits from these celebrated gingerbread makers have a subtly sweet bite and are great for pairing with cheese.

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Belmond Le Manoir

Top Tables The best restaurant, pub and hotel recommendations – tried and tested by the GBF team

Great Escapes...

THE BULL, BEAUMARIS

Located in the charming seaside town of Beaumaris, with its meandering streets, cosy pubs and beautiful views of Snowdonia National Park, The Bull is a local institution. The former coaching inn effortlessly straddles old and new, combining original beams, creaking staircases and antique furnishings (the building is over 400 years old after all) with modern luxuries and some seriously cutting edge cooking. Guests can either stay inside the historic inn itself or opt for the adjacent Townhouse, a trendy boutique hotel with more contemporary finishes. All rooms offer quality Hypnos mattresses, fluffy down pillows and Egyptian cotton sheets, plus free Wi-Fi and Nespresso coffee machines.

And the food?

For dinner, choose between seasonally-focused fine dining at the elegant Loft restaurant (open Wednesday to Saturday), or something a bit more casual at the Coach. At the former, chef Andrew Tabberner is doing something pretty special with his ever changing menu, combining interesting local ingredients and the freshest seasonal produce – with a particular focus on vegetables. On offer you'll find the likes of pan-fried Menai scallops with duck crackling, hare carpaccio and hazelnuts or a sweet pumpkin tart with gingerbread. Downstairs, the newly refurbished Coach bistro is open for lunch and dinner every day, serving up delicious pub grub like the wild boar and chorizo burger, local fish bouillabaisse with crusty bread or the mouth-watering 21-day dry-aged Celtic Pride rib eye with zingy chimichurri. greatinns.co.uk bullsheadinn.co.uk 118 /

THE GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL, KINGS CROSS

This elegant Victorian railway hotel is a jewel in the crown of the newly regenerated Kings Cross. No-longer just a transport hub, the area is home to a growing number of eating and shopping spots, from the buzzy bars and restaurants of Granary Square to the eclectic stalls of the Real Food Market. Located right next to the station, The Great Northern makes an ideal base whether you're shopping on Oxford street, or travelling on to the Continent via St Pancras – but trust us, the hotel is such a delight you won't want to leave.

The relatively tiny lobby belies the beauty of the artfully designed rooms above; think bedrooms painted in calming Farrow & Ball shades with chic hand-crafted furniture, lavish vintage-style bathrooms and a high tech entertainment package in each room. Each floor also has a handy pantry stocked with complimentary homemade cakes, sweets, Nespresso coffees and newspapers.

pear and Burrata salad were a perfect example of letting quality ingredients do the talking. For the main affair we couldn't say no to the unctuous sharing plate of maple Suffolk pork belly – served with baked apples, black pudding and gloriously creamy mustard mash.

The restaurant's signature pudding, stewed plums on a gorgeous vanilla custard, finished things off perfectly. gnhlondon.com

And the food?

With a seasonally focused menu created by chef Mark Sargeant, Plum & Spilt Milk is so much more than your usual hotel restaurant.

Decorated with a splash of 1920s glamour, with floor-to-ceiling windows, hand-blown glass filaments and plush leather banquettes, the space manages to be cosy and relaxed but also utterly luxurious at the same time. Start with an expertly made cocktail in the glitzy Snug bar – we loved Make A Wish, a heady treat made with Black Cow Vodka, vanilla and lemon mousse. The menu is packed with hearty British classics brought bang up to date with exciting textures and flavour combinations; starters of a rich Cornish fish soup and a tasty air-dried ham, poached

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Duck & Waffle Local

DISCOV E R B RI TA I N

RESTAURANTS WE LOVE GALVIN HOP, SPITALFIELDS Bottomless brunch has quickly become a weekend staple, and Galvin HOP's indulgent version allows diners to choose from free flowing Bloody Marys, prosecco or unfiltered Pilsner Urquell to wash down their food. The posh pub, from Michelin-starred chefs and restaurant supremos the Galvin brothers, has a menu packed with tempting brunch classics, including rich buttermilk pancakes topped with cream, berries and maple syrup, or delicious omelettes with your choice of filling. Those with a larger appetite can indulge in heartier mains including perfectly made hot dogs and burgers, crispy Korean fried chicken, barbecued ribs or beef bavette with fried eggs and chips. The food is simple but expertly executed with top quality ingredients, and the laid-back atmosphere will make you want to sip Prosecco all afternoon! galvinrestaurants.com THE BOTANIST, CHESTER Specialising in unusual craft cocktails and deli-inspired food, restaurant group The Botanist has grown hugely in the last few years with branches in cities all over the North. We headed to the bustling Chester branch to check things out, and were impressed with the slick service, creative drinks and hearty grub.

All too often the quality of a restaurant suffers from speedy expansion, but The Botanist is a reliable option for anyone looking for lunch, dinner or just drinks and a snack. The theme of flowers and nature is apparent from the lush décor to the cocktail menu; the walls are adorned with trinkets and vintage-style gardening kit, while the drinks menu includes concoctions such as the English mojito, made with Tanqueray gin, cucumber, mint, fresh lime and green apple liqueur. We started with a perfectly made Scotch egg and rich garlic prawns, followed by a generous chicken and leek pie and the house speciality – juicy rotisserie chicken.

Puds are wonderfully retro; we loved the caramelised banana split, made with toasted marshmallow ice cream, brownie pieces, and a biscuit cream. thebotanist.uk.com

ONES TO WATCH :

Foodie spots to add to your hit list Wreckfish, Liverpool The latest venture from chef Gary Usher (owner of Sticky Walnut, Burnt Truffle and Hispi) was financed by a £200,000 crowdfunding effort and has opened to much fanfare. Expect humble seasonal ingredients cooked with flair. wreckfish.co Indian Accent, Mayfair There's a branch in New Delhi and New York, and now fine dining restaurant Indian Accent is bringing its contemporary twist on Indian comfort food to the capital. The original is on the World's 50 Best List, so expectations are high. indianaccent.com Peckham Levels, Peckham A multi-storey car park in Peckham has received an elaborate facelift, transforming it into a new food and culture hub, with two of its ten stories dedicated to artisan food and drink. peckhamlevels.org

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Time to explore tantalising flavours to tickle your tastebuds! www.savoursmiths.com

Carrot Soup withCardamom & Ginger

All of nature’s goodness in our soup

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RULE BRITANNIA Try something new with our pick of the UK’s most delicious food and drink for the new year SNACKING GETS EXCITING Savoursmiths make audaciously luxurious crisps with potatoes harvested from the company’s own farm in Cambridgeshire, using only the finest ingredients. These creative crisps are available in five decadent varieties, including the new flavour - Desert Salt, flavoured with naturally harvested sun-dried salt from the Kalahari Desert in Southern Africa. savoursmiths.com

PERFECT FOR BREAKFAST Stornoway White Pudding might not be as famous as the Scottish town’s iconic black pudding but, with a subtler flavour, it is just as delicious.

Also known as oatmeal or ‘mealy’ pudding, it’s great in stuffing, as an accompaniment to chicken, pork or beef or, as it is traditionally served, with a cooked breakfast. £9 for 1.3kg, charlesmacleod.co.uk

HEALTHY LUNCHES The new Power Pod Soups from Roots & Wings are full of tasty goodness; each serving is nutritionally balanced and made with the finest organic ingredients. The pots are also packed with flavour and perfectly portable for taking to work for an easy and delicious lunch. The pots are available in four flavours; Parsnip & Honey, Tomato, Basil & Balsamic, Fresh Carrot, Ginger & Cardamom and Celeriac & Leek £3.25 from ocado.com SWEET & LIGHT Clarks Original is a blend of Pure Canadian Maple Syrup from Quebec and Carob Syrup from the Mediterranean. It’s created in the UK and contains nearly 50% less sugar gram for gram than white refined sugar, making it a lighter alternative when you want to add a touch of sweetness to your cooking. £2 from Tesco, Sainsburys, Asda, Morrisons and Ocado.

THE REAL TASTE OF INDIA During her time filming The Real Marigold Hotel for the BBC, Rosemary Shrager found herself drawn to the spiritual life of India. In this course at her cookery school, Rosemary will share recipes on how food and culture contribute to the healing power of India. If you adore spices and complex flavours, then this is the course for you. Course Date: March 24 2018 Price: £245.00. Further details can be found at rosemaryshrager.com

A CUT ABOVE This Garlic Pickle and Nigella Seed Topped Pork Pie from baking experts Toppings Pies is just the thing for a bit of winter indulgence.

Prime British Red Tractor pork pie meat is topped with garlic, tomato and black nigella seeds – all cradled in a rich hot water pastry crust. Delicious! Stockists available at toppingspies.co.uk

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R U L E B R I T TA N I A

TIME FOR TEA Grey’s Teas sell a dazzling selection of bagged and loose leaf green, white, black, oolong and yellow teas from around the world. We particularly like the sound of Keemun Peony – a punchy Chinese black tea with a subtly rich and fruity taste, toasty character and delicate aroma.

Great in the afternoon or evening, it also makes a lovely breakfast tea if brewed for longer. Prices start at £5.64 for 125g greysteas.co.uk SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR FlavourArt’s concentrated flavourings are so easy to use and extremely versatile, whether you’re cooking, baking or spicing up a cocktail.

There are 200 exciting flavours and blends to choose from, including Pear Drops, Cornish Cream Tea, Marshmallow, Blackcurrant Liquorice and many more! £3.30 for 10ml, flavourart.uk

BOX CLEVER There are lots of meal box schemes out there, but we particularly like Box’d Fresh, which prides itself on offering recipes that can be cooked in 20-30 minutes and have less than 8 steps; ideal for busy cooks. Meal kits contain organic fruit and veg, sustainably sourced fish and free-range meat. Recipes can be tailored for all kinds of diets, from vegan and low carb to family portions and more indulgent meals.

From £5.95 per serving, boxdfresh.co.uk

GET COSY Made using recycled materials that are handcrafted, expertly shaped and riveted to ensure maximum durability, these fire bowls from The Indian Fire Bowl Company perfectly combine raw beauty with fantastic functionality They are fantastic to cook with and great to use as a fire pit to keep you warm during the cold evenings. From £89.00, indianfirebowlcompany.co.uk

RABBIE’S RELISH A staple for any Burns Night feast, this haggis from Scottish farm shop Balgove Larder is a real treat. Handmade from an age old traditional recipe using sheep offal, oatmeal, beef suet, onions and a secret blend of spices, it’s perfectly balanced and completely delicious – especially served with a big mound of mash and lots of whisky! A haggis costs £6.95 and feeds around 2-3 people. balgove.com

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A SUPER SAUCE Black garlic bulbs are crushed and combined with the perfect balance of fresh tomatoes, olive oil, spices, Anglesey sea salt and balsamic vinegar to create a truly extraordinary sauce.

Hawkshead Relish’s Black Garlic Ketchup is delicious served with a well-aged steak, sausages or burgers, and it makes a fabulous marinade for chicken. We love to dip chips in it too! £4.99, hawksheadrelish.com

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Multi award winning, our Stornoway Black Pudding, is made with Scottish oatmeal to give a unique texture.

Essential in a traditional breakfast or a perfect accompaniment to a range of savoury ingredients such as scallops, chicken, beef and pork.

ONLINE SHOP – PRICE LIST Stornoway Black Pudding 1.3kg – £9.00 Stornoway Black Pudding 650g – £5.00 Stornoway Haggis 500g – £5.00 Uig Lodge Smoked Salmon £230g – £12.50 Charlie Barley Jute Bag – £3.00 + Delivery charges based on weight.

Telephone: 01851 702445 List of stockists available at:

www.charlesmacleod.co.uk

5* Holiday Barns for Families or Friends Take off to the big blue skies of North Norfolk with a party of family or friends.

Our 5* holiday barns are stylish and comfortable: the perfect venue for a relaxing weekend break or to host a special celebration. The barns are set in a tranquil spot, close to lovely beaches and walks; lots of local produce to tempt you to cook fantastic food, or use our chef for anything from drop-off meals to a fully catered dinner party. Sleeping from 4 to 22.

www.barshambarns.co.uk | 01328 821744 124 /

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Enter at: greatbritishfoodmagazine.com/giveaways

X XXXXXXX | XXXXXX XX

The Big Foodie

GIVEAWAY!

From foodie breaks to gourmet hampers, we have over £900 worth of prizes up for grabs this month!

WIN AN OVERNIGHT STAY AT THE BELMONT HOTEL IN LEICESTER

To celebrate the David Ferguson at The Belmont restaurant being awarded two AA Rosettes (on top of the hotel's four-star AA rating), Leicester's The Belmont Hotel is offering readers the chance to win a weekend break for two. One lucky winner and guest will enjoy an overnight night stay with breakfast in one of the hotel’s beautifully refurbished en suite guest rooms, a three course contemporary fine dining meal with a bottle of wine in the vibrant David Ferguson at The Belmont restaurant, plus traditional afternoon tea at Jamie’s bar. You'll also receive complimentary tickets to the King Richard III visitor centre WO R T H – where the King’s remains were buried over 500 years ago – for you to OV E R delve into Leicester's rich heritage. See more at belmonthotel.co.uk Even if you're not a winner, Great British Food readers can take advantage of a night's accommodation for a limited time price of £62.50 (per person/per night) including a free bedroom upgrade. Call 0116 254 4773 and quote 'Great British Food' for more information.

£350!

TERMS & CONDITIONS: Prize and offer is for two adults sharing a double/twin room, valid until 31st March 2018 and subject to availability. Prize dinner includes three courses with a bottle of house wine and soft drinks. Reader offer includes breakfast and a three-course dinner. Prize is non-transferable and no cash alternatives apply. Editor’s decision is final.

WIN A MONTH'S SUPPLY

WIN ONE OF FOUR

If you love to kick start your day with a refreshing fruit juice, you'll want to get your hands on these fruit-packed hampers from Crafted Drinks, a new brand of fruit juice made in small batches in the UK. We have five hampers up for grabs (worth £60.80 each), each filled with a month's supply of juices including: mango and passion fruit; pineapple, coconut and lime; apple, mint and lime and still cloudy lemonade.

W

Hoping to see in the new year with a brand new breakfast option? Look no further than established oat brand White's, whose team have been passionately milling oats in Co. Armagh, Northern Ireland since 1841. A natural superfood, oats are 100% wholegrain and an excellent source of fibre, protein, vitamins and antioxidants, meaning they'll keep you filled up for longer. This month we're giving away four hampers (worth £65 each), each containing a delicious array of White’s porridge oats and granola, plus a WO R White’s branded apron and porridge bowl TH for you to devour your breakfast in style.

OF ARTISAN FRUIT JUICE

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Find out more at crafteddrinks.co.uk

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BREAKFAST HAMPERS

Find out more at whitesoats.co.uk

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£260!

COOK THE COVER! This creamy South Indian-style curry is a fabulous dish to make for a crowd and really delivers on flavour!

Keralan-Style Roast Chicken Curry Serves: 4-6 Prepare: 10 minutes Cook: 45 minutes 4 chicken thighs, skin on, bone in 4 chicken drumsticks 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander Sea salt and black pepper 1 tbsp vegetable oil For the curry: 1 bunch spring onions 2 fresh red chillies 1 small bunch fresh coriander 4cm piece root ginger 1 bunch of fresh curry leaves, or a small jar of dried leaves 400g cherry tomatoes 2 tbsps vegetable oil 2 tsps black mustard seeds 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 x 400g tin coconut milk 200g fresh spinach 1 lime Rice or roti bread, to serve 1. Preheat the oven to 200ยบC/Fan 180ยบC/Gas 6. Place the chicken thighs and drumsticks in a snug fitting roasting tray. Sprinkle over the chilli and spices and season well with the salt and pepper. Rub the spices and seasoning all over the chicken to coat well. Drizzle over 1 tbsp of vegetable oil. Cover the roasting tray with tin foil and place in the preheated oven for 30 minutes.

When time is up, remove the foil and place the roasting tray back 126 /

in the oven for the skin to crisp up for 10 more minutes.

2. Meanwhile make the curry sauce. Trim and slice the spring onions and chillies. Finely chop the coriander stalks and pick the leaves into a bowl and place to one side. Peel the ginger and slice into matchsticks. Pick the curry leaves. Slice the cherry tomatoes in half.

3. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tbsps of vegetable oil. When the pan is hot enough, add the spring onions, 1 of the sliced chillies, the coriander stalks, ginger, curry leaves and mustard seeds. Stir fry for 2 minutes and then add the turmeric. Continue

to fry for a minute or 2 until it starts smelling delicious.

4. Halve the cherry tomatoes and stir in with a splash of water.

Cook for 4 minutes, stirring regularly. Turn the heat down to low, tip in the coconut milk and stir well. Season with salt and pepper, then keep stirring until the sauce has thickened a little.

Stir in the spinach and let it wilt.

5. Once the chicken is cooked, remove the tray from the oven and place the pieces in the sauce. Taste the sauce and season with a little lime juice and salt if need. Serve with the lime wedges, coriander leaves s and rice or bread.

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Photography by cliqq.co.uk.

Recipe and styling

by Pip Spence pipspence.com

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• Classifieds JANUARY 2018_GBF classifieds 08/12/2017 11:13 Page 128

Great British Market Choose it. Cure it. Love it. make your own high protein, high omega deliciousness

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please call – Nathan on 01206 505424 or Patrick on 01206 505955

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Short Breaks Available. Pets Welcome. tel: 01463 719219 New 2018 Brochure available.

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Don't miss our…

March Issue!

Fresh & Light

Root veg gets exciting!

60+

nourishing feel-good recipes

+ Rick Stein's fast, fresh & simple dishes + No-fuss soups and warming salads + Your takeaway favourites – made lighter

Great British

FOOD Out February 1st

© waitrose.com/recipes

Coming next month.indd 1

07/12/2017 17:05

LAST WORDS | JIMMY DOHERTY

IN THE KITCHEN WITH… Loves

Farmer and TV presenter Jimmy Doherty may have eaten his way around the world, but he loves nothing more than a portion of fish and chips with all the sides

RARE BREED PORK

I rear rare-breed British pigs on my farm in Suffolk and the UK is one of only a couple of countries that actually keeps these animals. A cut of belly pork is where this kind of meat really comes into its own – its fat content adds a fantastic depth of flavour.

Hates

FERMENTED SHARK

This is actually a delicacy in Iceland! The sharks are filleted, left in a wooden box for six months to putrefy and then served with a shot of vodka. I had to try it a few times when I was filming there – it makes you really appreciate the vodka!

SRI LANKAN CURRY I’ve been holidaying in Sri Lanka for many years, partly because the curries are incredible, particularly the spicy crab dishes!

FISH & CHIPS

MUTTON

This was once a meat that everyone ate regularly, but it's now pretty uncommon.

Spring lamb is all about tenderness, but mutton is about depth of flavour.

MARZIPAN

I just don’t like it. I love almonds, but anything with marzipan doesn’t do it for me.

BULL TESCTICLES

I once had to film the castration of bulls at a ranch in Kenya. The ranchers told me they were making some African sausages for me to try, but they actually contained the bulls’ testicles which had been thrown on the fire before being served!

DURIAN FRUIT

This is a giant fruit found all over South-East Asia, but it stinks so much that it has been banned on subways in Singapore! I once travelled in a truck with a durian fruit next to my feet – the smell nearly killed me!

Jimmy Doherty is a brand ambassador for Sarson’s. Find out more at sarsons.co.uk

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www.greatbritishfoodmagazine.com

Illustrations: Alice Cleary, aliceclearyillustrated.com

Really good fish and chips are simply amazing. Chip shops offer so many different fish varieties these days and I just love all the condiments that they're served with – pickles, sea salt and, of course, Sarson’s malt vinegar.

GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:32 Page 131

GBF JANUARY 18 master_GBF 08/12/2017 10:32 Page 132