1943%&born&in&Tokyo,&during&the&war& & 1966%&graduates&from&Tokyo’s&Keio& University& & 1972%&Yohji&Yamamoto,&Inc.&founded& and&he&starts&Y’s&a&womenswear&label& & 1977%&meets&Rei&Kawakubo&and& becomes&her&lover& & 1981%Launches&the&more&experimental& Yohji&Yamamoto&label&and&makes&his& Paris&debut& & 1994%&The&first&designer&to&be& honoured&with&France’s&presPgious& Chevalier&dans&l’ordre&des&arts&et&des& leRres&
BRAND CHARACTERISTICS % Yohji&said:&”When&I&started&&&& designing,&I&wanted&to&make& men's&clothes&for&women.”& % Avant%garde&spirit&in&his&garments,& frequently&far&from&current&& &&&&&trends& % Oversized&silhoueRes&o[en&in& black& % Known&for&doing&collaboraPons& with&other&brands:&Adidas&(Y%3),& Hermès&and&Mandarina&Duck& % CollaboraPons&with&other&arPsts:& Tina&Turner&and&Sir&Elton&John&
F/W 2014 COLLECTION
INSPIRATION
F/W 2014 & & %Usual&de%construcPon&and&mileage&of&fabric& & %StarPng&dresses&were&very&gothic:&Black&Duvet&dresses&resembling&cocoons& & %A[erwards,&very&trippy&dresses&that&featured&the&hand&painted&graďŹƒP%art&of&his&menswear& collecPon&to&his&women&silhoueRes& & %InspiraPon&from&melancholic&street%art&and&Japanese&Manga:&bright&and&vivid&colours& & %Brief&introducPon&of&woolen&knitwear&and&very&strong&and&imponent&shoulders&taken&from& ancient&Samurai&armor& & & %Yohji&woman&is&very&strong&and&energePc& & %&The&collecPon&ďŹ nished&with&his&usual&ample&shapes,&showing&some&unfuncPonal&or& unwieldy&garments,&featuring&miRs&looking&like&smartphones& & &
CARRY OVERS
F/W&2014&
F/W&2012&
F/W&2013&
F/W&2010&
F/W&2011&
2013 CARRY OVER ANALYSIS
Yohji&Yamamoto&carry&over:&The& lower&part&of&the&total&look&–&the& trouser/dress& & Sold&for&a&price&of&1000€&
F/W 2013 COMPETITORS Comme&des&Garรงons&&
Issey&Miyake&
Ann&Demeulemeester&
Junya&watanabe&
F/W 2013 COMPETITORS Maison&MarPn&Margiela&
Hussein&Chalayan&
Rick&Owens&
Kenzo&
Gareth&Pugh&
MARKET ANALYSIS MARKET&
CARRY&OVER/ COLLECTION&
COLLECTION& SIZE&
%&OF&CARRY& OVER&
PRICES&
Yohji&Yamamoto&
2&
42&
5%&
1000€&
Maison&MarPn&Margiela&
1&
34&
3%&
700€&
Rick&Owens&
8&
41&
20%&
700€&
Hussein&Chalayan&
4&
47&
9%&
900€&
Junya&Watanabe&
2&
42&
5%&
850€&
Issey&Miyake&
4&
41&
10%&
800€&
Comme&des&Garçons&
1&
32&
3%&
1100€&
Ann&Demeulemeester&
3&
34&
8%&
700€&
Kenzo&
4&
43&
9%&
900€&
Gareth&Pugh&
3&
42&
7%&
700€&
YOHJI YAMAMOTO MARKET POSITIONING MAP HIGH&PRICE&
AVANT%GARDE&
CONSERVATIVE&
LOW&PRICE&
COLLECTION ANALYSIS
COLLECTION COMPOSITION B O T T Lower&garment& O pcs/price&range& M%
G A R M Long&Garment& E pcs/price&range& N T%
Narrow/ Shallow&
Overwear&& pcs/price&range&
F/W&2014&&
36&pcs& 880€%1150%&3150€&
23&pcs& 800€&%&1350€&
7&pcs& 900€&%1500€&&
2&pcs& 150€&%&300€&
S/S&2014&
21&pcs& 500€&%&2360€&
28&pcs& 600€&%&1225€&
F/W&2013&
14&pcs& 600€&%&2200€&
28&pcs& 480€&%&1050€&
19&pcs& S700€&%1525€&& H O E 16&pcs& S500€&%1150€&& %
S/S&2013&
27&pcs& 450€&%&1260€&
44&pcs& 380€&%&900€&
26&pcs& 600€&%1000€&&
Pieces&taken&in&consideraPon:& & Overwear:&Coats&and&Jackets& & Lower&Garment:&Trousers,&Skirts&& & Long&Garments:&Dresses& & Shirts:&T%shirts&and&Shirts& & Knitwear:&Jumper&and&Cardigan& & Accessories:&Scarves,&Gloves,&Hats,&Belts,&Ties,&bags&&
Shirts& pcs/price&range&
S H I RKnitwear& T pcs/price&range& S%
Accessories& pcs/price&range&
Total& pieces&
6&pcs& 400€&%&900€&
22&pcs& 150€&%&600€&
96&
13&pcs& 300€&%&1025€&
4&pcs& 380€&%&757€&
13&pcs& 250€&%&630€&
98&
5&pcs& 150€&%&970€&
6&pcs& 350€&%&700€&
50&pcs& 250€&%&900€&
119&
8&pcs& 130€&%&1150€&
4&pcs& 300€&%&660€&
11&pcs& 125€&%&450€&
120&
CATWALK COMPARISON
F/W&2014& &
%&ArPsPc&and&therefore&more&valuable& & %&Colourful&and&conceptual& & %&True&to&the&brand&(oversized)&but&very&un%commercial&
F/W&2013& &
%&Commercial:&black,&simple&silhoueRes& %&Reaches&a&bigger&market& & %&Market&driven&
The&F/W&2014&collecPon&contributes&more&to&the&brand&image,&its&sales&of&garments&will&almost&certainly&be&less&but&the& sales&of&accessories&will&probably&be&higher.&It&is&not&about&showing&a&collecPon&ready&for&the&store&but&more&about& making&a&statement&and&becoming&art&rather&than&fashion.&&
COLLECTION WALL
& & & & & & & Price:&2500€& && I.C.&:&278€& && & P:&166&€& & & CMT:&112€& & & & & & & & Price:&2100€& && & I.C.&:&233€& & & P:&139€& & &CMT:&93€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black&& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& &
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:&
&
Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL&:& & 10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&2650€& && I.C.&:&294€& && & P:177€& & & CMT:&117€& & & & & & & & Price:&3100€& && & I.C.&:&344€& & & P:&189€& & &CMT:&154€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:&
&
Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL&:& & 10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& & ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:&
&
Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL&:& & 10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&2800€& && I.C.&:&311€& && & P:&171€& & & CMT:&139€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& &
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&2800€& && & I.C.&:&311€& & & P:&171€& & &CMT:&139€&
&
& & & & & & &Price:&3150€& && I.C.&:&350€& && P:&192€& & & &CMT:&157€&
&
ITEM:&coat& MAT.&:& Coated&coRon& Nylon& & Opening&1:& & COLOUR:& & Print:& & Opening&2:& Colour:& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& & 10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon&
&
& &
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & &Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&1150€& && I.C.&:&127€& && & P:&76€& & & CMT:&54€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&2000€& && I.C.&:&222€& && & P:&122&€& & & CMT:&99€& & & & & & & &Price:&1500€& && I.C.&:&166€& && P:&100€& & & & CMT:&66€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Wool& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& ITEM:&Jacket& & MAT.&:& & Cashmere& CoRon&& & COLOUR:& & Grey&& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
30€/&meter&cashmere& 8€/&meter&CoRon& &
&
& & & & & & &Price:&1850€& && I.C.&:&205€& && P:&123&€& & & &CMT:&82€& & & & & & & &Price:&2150€& && I.C.&:&238€& && P:&142€& & & & CMT:&95€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 13€/&meter&wool& &
&
&ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Leather& & COLOUR:& & Light&Brown& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& & 15€/&meter&Leather&
& & & & & & & Price:&3000€& && I.C.&:&333€& && & P:&200&€& & & CMT:&133€& & & & & & & &Price:&900€& && I.C.&:&100€& && P:&60&€& & & & CMT:&40€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Print:&& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& ITEM:&jacket& & MAT.&:& & CoRon& Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Grey& Red& PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
8€/&meter&coRon& & 13€/&meter&wool& &
& & & & & & &Price:&2700€& && I.C.&:&300€& && P:&180&€& & & &CMT:&120€& & & & & & & &Price:&1900€& && I.C.&:&211€& && P:&126&€& & & & CMT:&85€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & CoRon& Leather& & COLOUR:& & Black:&& Print:& PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
8€/&meter&coRon& & 15€/&meter&Leather&
&
& ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black&& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&1200€& && I.C.&:&133€& && & P:&80&€& & & CMT:&53€&
ITEM:&Jacket& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€&/&meter&wool& &
& &
& & & & & & & Price:&1000€& && I.C.&:&111€& && P:&66&€& & & & CMT:&44€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Nylon& CoRon& & COLOUR:& & White&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Black& Grey& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& 10€/&meter&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
&
& & & & & & &Price:&1800€& && I.C.&:&200€& && P:&120&€& & & & CMT:&80€&
ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & CoRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & White&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Black& Grey& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& 10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&Nylon& &
& & & & & & & Price:&2000€& && I.C.&:&222€& && P:&133&€& & & & CMT:&89€&
&ITEM:&coat& & MAT.&:& & Leather& & COLOUR:& & Black& & Print:& & & PRICE&MATERIAL:& & 15€/&meter&Leather&
&
& & & & & & & Price:&1350€& && I.C.&:&150€& && & P:&90&€& & & CMT:&60€& & & & & & & &Price:&1200€& && I.C.&:&133€& && P:&79&€& & & &CMT:&53€&
ITEM:&trouser& & MAT.&:&
&
Wool& & COLOUR:& & Cream& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&Wool&
& &
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & White& Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& 10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
& & & & & & &Price:&800€& && I.C.&:&88€& && P:&53&€& & & &CMT:&35€&
ITEM:&trouser& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Dark&grey& & PRICE&MATERIAL:& & 13€/&meter&Wool& &
& & & & & & & Price:&850€& && I.C.&:&94€& && P:&56&€& & & & CMT:&37€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 13€/&meter&wool& &
& & & & & & & Price:&900€& && I.C.&:&100€& && & P:&60€& & & CMT:&40€& & & & & & & & Price:&1350€& && I.C.&:&150€& && P:&90&€& & & & CMT:&60€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Cashmere& CoRon& & COLOUR:& & grey& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
30€/&meter&cashmere& & 8€/&meter&coRon& &
&
& ITEM:&dress& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 13€/&meter&wool& &
& & & & & & &Price:&1350€& && I.C.&:&150€& && P:&90&€& & & &CMT:&60€&
ITEM:&trouser& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Grey& Print:&& PRICE&MATERIAL:&
& & & & & & &Price:&1100€& && I.C.&:&122€& && P:&73&€& & & & CMT:&49€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Leather& & COLOUR:& & Light&brown& Print:&various&colours& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&nylon& &
&
15€/&meter&Leather& &
& &
& & & & & & &Price:&1200€& && I.C.&:&133€& && P:&79€& & & &CMT:&54€& & & & & & & &Price:&1150€& && I.C.&:&127€& && P:&76&€& & & &CMT:&51€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Wool& CoRon& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&wool& & 8€/&meter&coRon& &
&
& ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:&
&
CoRon& & COLOUR:& & Black& Blue& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
8€/&meter&coRon& &
& &
& & & & & & &Price:&1000€& && I.C.&:&111€& && P:&66€& & & &CMT:&45€&
ITEM:&dress& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
& & & & & & &Price:&1100€& && I.C.&:&122€& && P:&73&€& & & &CMT:&49€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Leather& & COLOUR:& & Light&brown& & Print:& & & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&coated&coRon& &
&
15€/&meter&Leather& &
& & & & & & &Price:&1100€& && I.C.&:&122€& && P:&73&€& & & &CMT:&49€& & & & & & & &Price:&600€& && I.C.&:&66€& && P:&39€& & & & CMT:&27€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Leather& & COLOUR:& & Black& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
15€/&meter&Leather& & & ITEM:&hat& & MAT.&:& & CoRon& Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
8€/&meter&coRon& & 13€/&meter&wool& &
& & & & & & &Price:&900€& && I.C.&:&100€& && P:&60€& & & &CMT:&40€&
ITEM:&skirt& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& & COLOUR:& & White& & Print:& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon&
& &
& & & & & & &Price:&450€& && I.C.&:&50€& && P:&30&€& & & & CMT:&20€&
ITEM:&scarf& & MAT.&:& & Cashmere& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
25€/&meter&cashmere& &
& &
& & & & & & &Price:&350€& && I.C.&:&38€& && P:&23€& & & &CMT:&15€& & & & & & & & Price:&150€& && I.C.&:&16€& && P:&10€& & & & CMT:&6€&
ITEM:&hat& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&wool& &
& &
ITEM:&hat& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Red& grey& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&wool& &
& &
& & & & & & &Price:&300€& && I.C.&:&33€& && P:&19&€& & & &CMT:&14€&
ITEM:&hat& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & cream& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
& & & & & & &Price:&500€& & &I.C.&:&55€& && P:&33€& && CMT:&22€& &
ITEM:&scarf& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&wool& &
& &
&
15€/&meter&wool&
& &
& & & & & & &Price:&250€& M.U.:&9& &I.C.&:&28€& && P:&17&€& && CMT:&11€& &
ITEM:&scarf& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Red& Purple& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&wool& &
&
& & & & & & &Price:&200€& M.U.:&9& &I.C.&:&22€& && P:&13&€& && CMT:&9€& &
ITEM:&gloves& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Black&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Cyan& Fuchsia&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Purple& PRICE&MATERIAL:&
& & & & & & &Price:&178€& M.U.:&9& &I.C.&:&19€& && P:&11&€& && CMT:&8€& &
ITEM:&gloves& & MAT.&:& & Coated&coRon& Nylon& & COLOUR:& & Military&green& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
& & & & & & &Price:&150€& M.U.:&9& &I.C.&:&16€& && P:&10&€& && CMT:&6€& &
ITEM:&hat& & MAT.&:& & Wool& & COLOUR:& & Black& & PRICE&MATERIAL:&
&
13€/&meter&wool& &
& &
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&coated&coRon& &
&
10€/&meter&coated&coRon& & 6€/&meter&coated&coRon& &
COLLECTION PLAN
COLLECTION COMPOSITION F/W 2015 Narrow/ Shallow&
Overwear&& pcs/price&range&
Lower&garment& pcs/price&range&
Shirts& pcs/price&range&
Knitwear& pcs/price&range&
Accessories& pcs/price&range&
Total& pieces&
F/W&2015&&
30&pcs& 950€&%1500€&%&2500€&
20&pcs& 750€&%&1250€&
7&pcs& 150€&%&400€&
15&pcs& 600€&%&900€&
15&pcs& 200€&%&600€&
90&
Pieces&taken&in&consideraPon:& & Overwear:&Jackets,&tunics&and&cloaks& & Lower&Garment:&Trousers,&Skirts&& & Shirts:&T%shirts&and&Shirts& & Knitwear:&Jumper&and&Cardigan& & Accessories:&Scarves,&Gloves,&Hats& &&
Materials&used:& & CoRon& &&&&&& CoRon&+&Neoprene& &&&&& Wool& & Cashmere& & Chenille& & & & & & &
Colours:& & Black& & Dark&grey& & White& & Dark&green& & Dark&Blue& & &
& & &
CARRY OVER OF F/W 2014
Product:&Coat,&scarf& Product:&jacket&
Product:&Coat&
Product:&Skirt&