USE-IT Tbilisi 2019

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REDUCE YOUR NAME TO MAXIMUM 2 SYLLABLES. Our full names might be a bit complicated, but we like to make things simple. You will probably meet some Tamaras, Ekaterines, Tinatins, Tornikes, Iraklis, Avtandils and Giorgis. But they will almost certainly introduce themselves as Tamo, Eka, Tina, Toko, Ika, Avto and Gio. You will instantly fit in, if you reduce your name to two syllables. Michael? Miko! Nicolas? Nika! Samantha? Sami! Daniela? Dani! That’s the trick!

GEORGIAN MAYBE TIME. Time is relative, right? This is especially true in Georgia. Life is full of surprises here. Sometimes the bus you are waiting for just doesn’t come, there is an electricity cut or there is a traffic jam earlier than usual. We understand that for some of you it might be frustrating, but once you are here, just get over it and don’t be angry if your friend is 15 minutes late.

ARGUE ABOUT GEORGIA BEING PART OF EUROPE. “So, is Georgia in Asia or in Europe?” When you hear this question (or heaven forbid you ask it yourself!) you can be sure a long heated discussion is coming. If you want to be popular among Georgians just forget all you learnt in Geography class and even prepare a few arguments supporting the notion of Georgia historically and culturally belonging to the European space! (Otherwise it couldn’t be part of USE-IT, right?)

BECOME A MASTER OF BIRZHA. Once in Georgia, you will notice groups of men and sometimes women, sitting or squatting in front of the buildings in the suburbs, or just on the street, discussing and eating

semitchki (sunflower seeds). This is birzha the art of doing nothing and everything at the same time, the highest level of chilling and observing life. How to practice it? Get yourself a pack of unpeeled semitchki, squat in a park, talk about politics or gossip about common friends!

HUGS AND KISSES. It always takes a few awkward moments before you learn the local greeting rituals. That’s why we are here to help! In general, we kiss once on a cheek, usually on the left side. If you were just introduced to a new person, you may shake hands, or you can also add a brief kiss/cheek touch. If you run into a good friend you can also hug them, don’t be shy.

BARGAIN + ARGUE BARGUE! Some people might try to get the most cash out of you on your trip here. Don’t get ripped off, bargue instead. If you stop a taxi on the street, always negotiate the price in advance. If you find something pretty at the bazaar, bargue! We have friends who treat it as a sport and even try to negotiate lower prices in the electronic shops. If you have the nerve, try!

TAKE ME TO CHURCH! The majority of Georgians are Orthodox Christians. At first you might be surprised or even scared when people travelling with you in a bus start crossing themselves. Don’t worry, most probably you are not getting into a deadly accident, you’ve just passed a church. If you plan to visit one of the many churches, follow the dress code. Men should wear long trousers, women should have a longer skirts and a scarf, to cover their hair and shoulders.

SHEMOMECHAMA Let’s say you are on a diet, only 3 khinkalis are allowed but you’ve eaten 7 of them without realizing it.

We call it Shemomechama, that’s a feeling of accidentally eating food.

KHUTI LARI 5 Lari is the limit in barguing with taxi drivers while riding in the central districts of Tbilisi.

VAIME! You will hear it everywhere, from everyone in Georgia, locals express disappointment, joy, fear, excitement. It’s basically Georgian word for “OMG!”

EUF! If a Georgian is shocked, a Georgian screams Euf! We use it a lot, really a lot, well, there are simply many things to be shocked about in Georgia!

to learn how to get on Kiki Vakhushti Bagrationi Bridge, Right Embankment Fri Sat 23.00–10.00

///impulses.barks.soldiers

DANCE WITH THE FISH

If aquaman would like techno, you would see him enjoying the sounds of a river intertwined with the sounds of electronic music here. Mtkvarze used to be fish-market but now it’s one of the best stages of the city. Choose from the cocktail of experimental, raw, deep techno, funky house, electronica and nu disco. Nikoloz Baratashvili Left Bank Fri – Sat 23.30–09.00

TOUR DE FORCE!

///twig.palaces.effort

Delicate and thrilling, simple and yet deep, Movement Theatre helps you to unwind and to get a blob of glee and joy without any words, through dance, movement and music, from a rhapsodical and professional group of people. Agmashenebeli st 182 Mushtaidi garden Thu, Sat, Sun 16.00–00.00 Wed, Fri 16.00–22.00

///cultivation.origin.suitcase

COME

Elarji. If you ever manage to understand the weird wall decor, please let us know! 137 Davit Aghmashenebeli Ave Mon Sun 09.00–22.00 ///bunk.setting.hoot

WHAT TO ORDER FOR A SUPRA

LOBIO

Kidney beans with coriander and lots of different spices served in a clay pot. Try it with jonjoli, a pickled plant endemic to Georgia. The best lobio is served in Salobie Bia 52 ).

KHACHAPURI AND LOBIANI

Khachapuri comes in different forms and shapes, each region has its special way of preparing it. It’s basically a dough filled with cheese, sometimes with an egg. If you eat a lot of it, you will become really fat. Are you vegan? Try lobiani – pastry with beans instead.

KHINKALI

Don’t order this if you are on a first date, unless you both have a kinky food fetish.

These dumplings are filled with meat with a lot of hot liquid and you eat it by holding the tip in your hand, biting a little hole in the dough and sucking out all the broth and then eating the rest. Never cut it with fork and knife and always leave the tip on

the plate. Alternatively, you can also have mushroom or cheese khinkali.

PKHALI

Vegetable pate of carrot, spinach or cabbage, all mixed with mashed walnuts, spices and pomegranate seeds, usually served as a starter – foodgasm at the first course.

ELARJI

One of the best things the Samegrelo region gave to Georgia – delicious corn porridge with loads of melted cheese. We are unable to describe with words how delicious it is, so you just need to go to 11 and try it.

WINE + CHACHA + COGNAC

Georgians are really good at making drinks from grapes. We literally invented it. So try all of them. Traditional wine made in qvevri (a large clay vessel), grape vodka and grape brandy.

For those who seek consistency in contradiction, Tbilisi has nurtured authenticity that takes place regularly in the form of curated nights on weekends (and not only). A culture which aroused from socialist realism into late capitalism was brought to you by the local youth to challenge your perception of joy.

PREFACE FRIDAY

Friday lands on top in terms of significance of the nights. Events are heavily drafted with Internationally contested artists by the promoters of the venues.

Start around 9 at 10 26 36 42 – loaded with myriad of open minds and help yourself to moderate amount of alcohol.

Do talk about: Politics, Desires, Art, Internet, Memes and be ready for Hype.

After 3 am, once you’ve exhausted your warmup endeavours, take off to one of the major clubs 4 5 7 ). Each club has its own subculture developed – the way people dress, dance, interact. The night goal is to enjoy the music, therefore, making noise, disrupting personal space or being drunk as a skunk is not accepted here. Just dive in the rough techno beats or gentle ambient tunes until the sunshine breaks the darkness and betake yourself home.

SATURDAY

After a draining Friday, treat yourself to a decent brunch in one of the suggested places ( 22 37 53 ). Visit 15 to satisfy your need for some of the tracks from the last night. Besides that, you can continue spoiling yourself by shopping for clothes or accessories by the local designers 14 16 41 56 ).

Don’t forget to hydrate yourself – inside-out – get a relaxing bath in one of the bath 61 62 ). This will definitely put you back on your feet for the next round of the dance. 30 58 can satisfy your techno thirst.

SUNDAY

“It’s time to make your eye drink water!” That is what we say when one needs to change the environment. Go out of the city for a short trip. We suggest – Mtskheta, Sighnaghi, Uplistsikhe, then come back before late dinner. Have a proper Georgian Supra at 21 52 50 ), once back and get ready for a last sensual urban beat bestowed from heaven 25 29 ).

GAMARJOBA ERTI LUDI! (DIDI) MADLOBA! GAUMARJOS! KARGAD! ARA/KI SAD ARIS ... ? RA GHIRS ... ? x and kh like in san jose j like in jeans ch like ch in cheers gh like french r g like g in golf Hello! One Beer! Thank you! (Very Much) Cheers! Goodbye! No/Yes Where is ... ? How much is ...? STROLLS AND DANCE Lisi Lake is one of the most popular summer spots. You can try to get some sun during the day and stroll around the lake with a cool breeze in the evening. Summer is also a time of music events and festivals by the lake. Check out Tbilisi Open Air, you are in the town. To get here, take a taxi or bus #29 from the Station Square. PS. We don’t think it’s healthy to swim in the lake. ///blast.pyramid.strongly THE BEST IN THE TOWN Secret recipe? Bad service? Annoyed customers? Cheap? Unpleasant environment? We don’t know what makes their Lobiani (bean pastry) so delicious, but it definitely makes all kinds of people step up to the ugly yard of Oniashvili’s Bakery 36 Otar Oniashvili St. Mon – Sun 09.30–20.00 ///pouting.manages.squad SWIM IN A NON-SEA A sea? In Tbilisi? Not really. It’s just a big water reservoir which got named Tbilisi Sea (perhaps so the people who don’t manage to go to the real seaside in summer feel less miserable?) and where you can cool your body during the hot summer days. To get to Tbilisi Sea, use a taxi or take a bus #111 from the Station sq.
TO THE RAVE Another techno hotspot of the city, located inside the brutalist soviet bridge. Khidi manages to have respectful line-ups of acid, dark, deep and industrial techno, lo-fi, classic house artists. Once month, Kiki Night brings the queer community of Georgia together. Contact “Tanadgoma”
///swanky.lobbed.haunts BRIDGE
iIt’s techno, but friendly and warm, this
fers an alternative to the crude music of bassiani. Horoom often gives place for Georgian artists and lesser known electronic music styles – electro, acid-house,
dream
detroit or
One night every month is Horoom night the main queer event of
to learn
ALL YOU WILL EVER NEED. AND MORE! Experience the Vagzlis bazaar bizarre! Get lost among the shops underground and above the ground. Buy anything, starting from tasty local food, spices, to cosmetic products, fake brand clothing and suspiciously cheap electronics. All for a fraction of the usual price! And don’t be shy to bargue! This is great place to practice your skills! Station Square Area Mon – Sun 10.00–18.00 ///grocers.sting.fend BIRZHA UPGRADE! Nowadays everything is a political statement –dressing, raving, getting a tattoo, eating, even voting! Politika by Bauhaus provides a space for political drinking and dancing. Create your own birzha here to talk about recent local and global events. 164, Agmashenebeli Ave Mon – Sun 11.00–02.00 ///cracks.youth.nipped
FLYING
THE EAST Fall in love with Elsa’s cooking magic! Elsa is a lovely owner of Megrelian douqan. Once only popular among Marshutka-drivers, Mapshalia got wildly famous among Georgian hipsters as well, for its delicious but cheap
OF 19TH CENTURY GEORGIA Barbare Eristavi-Jorjadze was a feminist writer in the late 19th century who decided to document the unique Georgian recipes. She published a cookbook, which was long-forgotten until it was re-discovered by Barbarestan This place is perfect for special occasions, as it is a bit more pricey (main dishes are starting on 30 GEL). But you will not regret this true foodie experience in 19th century style, cozy restaurant. Important tip: Use facebook to book in advance! 132 Aghmashenebeli Str. Mon Sun 10.30–23.30 ///chimp.reader.tractor VINTAGE PERKS If you love second hand shopping, but you are not so good at finding the best pieces in the piles of clothes, this is your place! The owner of Vintylator does the job for you and picks the most stylish pieces for both girls and boys. The prices are slightly higher, but what you get is a carefully curated selection. Also check their instagram (@ vintylator) to get some vintage inspiration. 38 Marjanishvili Str. Mon Sun 11.00– 21.00 ///legal.pasting.bundles
SEWING FACTORY A collision of Soviet and modern Tbilisi vibes all that local cool kids love is at Fabrika During the daytime, it is calm working space but at night it transforms into a party, especially on Fridays. You can find a wide variety of events here from techno to hip-hop nights. If your Georgian friends are late for a meetup, or if you are desperately lonely and want to socialize, it is definitely place to visit. 8 Egnate Ninoshvili ST 24/7 ///email.canine.bind KASTING A MELODIC SPELL One of the historical moments of Georgian electronic music timeline is Vodkast a record label and the only vinyl-store that occasionally hosts various techno artists. 8 Ninoshvili Street, Fabrika Mon-closed. Tue Sun 13.00–21.00 ///piano.stuffy.divider HAND-PICKED FROM THE WORLD Finding it can be another urban expedition, but it’s really worth it! A place where present-day art harmony and chaos meet each other in a traditional Tbilisi apartment. LC Queisser is contemporary gallery owned by a Berliner lady, who hosts international exhibition programs from different sides of the world. Be sure to find a matching exhibition before you visit on their website or facebook. 49 Tsinamdzghvrishvili Str. Thu Sat 12.00–18.00 ///founding.perfect.probe LEGEND IN THE GLASS Every rumor you’ve heard about the Georgian wine comes true at 8000 Vintage The menu here offers not the Orkhevi Mother of Georgia TV Tower Ferris Wheel Bike Sculpture eedom Sq. Sameba Church Justice House Bridge of Peace Tamada Statue Abano St. George Statue 12 63 53 34 31 11 2 20 15 13 50 39 56 52 42 10 6 8 4 5 59 58 16 14 63 38 40 35 44 46 60 22 37 33 47 24 25 9 45 27 17 17 18 48 49 55 54 21 26 28 29 30 36 57 51 23 32 62 61 19 43 Tsinamdzghvrishvili Betlemi Gunia Gogebashvili Gabashvili SaintPetersburg A B C D E F ACT LIKE A LOCAL FEAST LIKE A LOCAL RAVE LIKE A LOCAL ...OR TRY TO UNDERSTAND THE LOCAL PECULIARITIES GEORGIAN LANGUAGE BASIC PRONUNCIATION ADVANCED 1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 SEE DRINK GO OUT CHILL SHOP EAT HOSTEL WHAT IS /// ? ///Filled.Count.Soap is a 3 word address. It’s a simple way to pinpoint locations, accurate to a 3x3m square. Download the free what3words app and enter the words to navigate. It’s easier than street names in a city you don’t know! INFO SELFIE SPOT BUS CHEAP VEGGIE SPOT If you want to eat like a real Georgian, you need to learn about SUPRA. Literally, it means tablecloth and it can be understood as throwing a traditional party, which is all about sharing and having a great time with your friends. You will
long night,
group
people,
Georgian
33 38 50
food
share, wine
politics
CLOSER!
stage of-
lo-fi,
house,
disco.
Georgia. Contact “Equality Movement”
how to get there. Akaki Tsereteli ave Sat 23.50–10.00 ///visual.handbook.noted
SWALLOW
FROM
TASTE
TRENDY
need: a
a
of
a nice
restaurant 11
), a huge amount of
that you can all
or chacha and a tamada, the toastmaster, who is able to say emotional speeches on various topics, starting with friendship, love, continuing with
and finishing with future meetings. SUPRA
FREE MAP FOR YOUNG TRAVELLERS MADE BY LOCALS 7 WE DANCE TOGETHER, WE FIGHT TOGETHER! Dato Emptiness-filler with this phrase, Bassiani truly made it into Georgian electronic music history in May 2018. It used to be a swimming pool for Dinamo’s footballers, and is now a legendary stage that endeavours not only high quality techno, but also a social change, by supporting those who are underprivileged and discriminated. Get yourself the newest record from the label to take local rave culture back home 2 Akaki Tsereteli ave Fri 23.50–10.00 ///kite.depend.mocking 17

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