BRANDING & design (Fashion magazine) by NILORN UK

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Hunting For The Ultimate Collaboration CRONICLE: THE NEW OPTIMISM THE DENHAM STORE: A UNIQUE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: NEW CONCEPTS BOOMING SHANGHAI ADD BIRDS

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Contents Branding&Design 2010/1 3

CONTENTS

FOREWORD

CRONICLE: THE NEW OPTIMISM

THE DENHAM STORE : A UNIQUE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

ADD BIRDS

HUNTING FOR THE PERFECT COLLABORATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

BOOMING SHANGHAI

WE LIKE...

COVER PHOTO:

Istockphoto PAPER: Body: Profisilk 170 gsm, Cover: Profisilk 250 gsm. Printed at Kredahl Grafiska AB, Bor책s.

FOREWORD

Welcome

HEADQUARTERS

THE NILORN GROUP Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås, SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

Dear Reader, The Nilorn team takes great pleasure in publishing the 2010 edition of the Design & Branding Magazine. Despite the turbulent 2009 we clearly observe a positive trend in the fashion and textile market – there are many signs of strong belief in the future, and companies are again investing in their branding and image in the key markets in Europe. In the 21st century, branding will continue to be a very important differentiator between products in all markets - successful branding is dependent on strategic brand awareness as well as a combination of brand recognition and distinction in quality. We at Nilorn believe that the most succesful brands will be companies who have a clear strategy and a combination of unconventional ways of marketing their products. We have seen several examples of success stories, but in this edition of Nilorn Brand & Design we have concentrated on companies and brands who see the great opportunities presented by “collaboration”, which could either be brands with completely different products or business ideas, but the reason for combining strong brands is to make sure that both will benefit in one way or another. You can also read about and take part in our latest product development in order to prompt and create new ideas, in terms of both graphic design and material and technical construction. The team at Nilorn are highly skilled and have unique experience in developing and building a strong identity and a successful brand for our customers. We are ready to respond to your “toughest” demands when it comes to your specific needs for branding, and you are more than welcome to contact one of our team members to help you become a winner in the tough international market.

SUBSIDIAR IES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 00 Fax +46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Tolderlundsvej 16 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel. +45 70 23 16 23 Fax +45 66 13 48 31 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Joseph Cardijnstraat 58 B-9420 Erpe-Mere BELGIUM Tel. +32 53 82 77 77 Fax +32 53 82 77 82 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN GERMANY GMBH Postfach 110 + 120 Blücherstraße 72 - 74 58332 Schwelm GERMANY Tel. +49 2336 403-0 Fax +49 2336 403-20 info@de.nilorn.com

I wish you an interesting and inspiring time with our magazine.

NILORN UK LTD Acre Park Dalton Lane, Keighley West Yorkshire, UNITED KINGDOM BD21 4JH Tel. +44 1535 673 500 Fax +44 1535 673 519 info@uk.nilorn.com

Claes af Wetterstedt CEO

The Nilorn Group is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. The Nilorn Group offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. The Nilorn Group is one of the leading European players, with turnover of over SEK 300 m. The Group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India and Turkey. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, India, Bangladesh, Tunisia, Romania and China.

NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon HONG KONG Tel. +852 2 371 2218 Fax +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com

NILORN CHINA Nilorn Shanghai Limited Add: 4F, NO 238, Chengjiaqiao RD, Shanghai Tel: +021-64064846-942 Fax: +021-64019750 NILORN PORTUGAL LDA Rua D. Afonso Henriques Terronhas, 4585-640 Recarei PORTUGAL Tel. +351 22 411 95 80 Fax +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD. Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 E-mail: info@in.nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel. +41 62 855 27 50 Fax +41 62 849 40 72 info@bally.nilorn.com EL OUCHMA ETIQUETTES ZI.La Poudriére ll, B.P 79 EL Bousten, 3099 TUNISIA Telephone: +216 74 432 630 Telefax: +216 74 432 016 E-mail: nilorn@el-ouchma.com NILORN TURKEY Nilorn Etiket San. ve Tic. Ltd Sti Atatürk Mahallesi Marmara Sanayi Sitesi. B-27 Ikitelli, Istanbul 346 70 TURKEY Tel. +90 212 472 05 13 Fax +90 212 472 05 21 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH Nilorn Bangladesh House # 38, Road # 63, Gulshan -02, Dhaka 1212, BANGLADESH Tel. +880 44 76 645 676 Fax: +880 2 88 35 913 info@bd.nilorn.com

CRONICLE

The new optimism Turquoise and dreams of pool parties, sandy beaches and the 1980s. The trends for 2010 are crystal-clear. This is the year when we really, truly need dreams. This year, the trend is to be happy.

Text: STEFAN NILSSON Trend spotter Trendgruppen

THE LAST YEAR OF THE previous decade ended on somewhat of a low note. The Copenhagen Climate Conference was viewed as a failure. Many strong brands just disappeared and when the media and other opinion-makers looked back at the first decade of the new millennium, they could only remember catastrophes and death tolls. The need for dreams has never been as great as it is now. This is definitely the time to slow down and enjoy a little good food and each other.

An empathic exciting colour but there is more. Many years of studies of colour associations show that we associate turquoise with a tropical, friendly paradise even though it may exist only in our imaginations. Dreams of white beaches, tanned legs and maybe drinks with paper umbrellas have never to been as appropriate as now or so needed. If we look around us now we see many turquoise signals. Think of Twitter, Facebook and all the other hot logos. We see turquoise in our homes almost inspired by the pastel porcelain of the 1950 and turquoise

But let’s begin with turquoise. The Pantone colour company chooses an annual colour of the year. Remember chilli pepper in 2006? Or mimosa in 2009? Probably not. However, some colours are more relevant than others. The fact that turquoise is stronger now also has to do with blue iris being the big colour of 2008. Only a year later and a blue hue is trendy again. Interesting considering that blue has been largely absent in both fashion and furnishings for a long time. We all remember the Bushnell jacket of the 1980s and collecting blue glass for our kitchens in the 1990s. But in the decade following 2000 there has been little blue, so blue now feels new and fresh. Look around you. How much blue do you see except for the jeans you bought last year? Probably not very much. Your sofa is beige with maybe an orange cushion and your wardrobe is black, black, black. Now we want to replace all of this with great tropical turquoise hues. The turquoise colour gives us associations to cooling, tropical waters and languorous escapes from everyday troubles. This is what the Pantone Color Institute says about turquoise: “In many cultures, Turquoise occupies a very special position in the world of color,” explains Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “It is believed to be a protective talisman, a color of deep compassion and healing and a color of faith and truth inspired by water and sky.” 6

Happy models at Paris Fashion Week.

rugs. The Le Creuset cookware company also observed an increased demand for turquoise cookware. If you look at any food magazine you suddenly see enamelled cast iron pots with turquoise. Strange? Well that’s how it is. But it’s the warm summer parties that we’re all looking for. The summer of 2010 will be the start of the pool party dream with its colourful, tropical drinks with their umbrellas. Many of us will be thinking pretty soon about pool parties with the bad boys of Wham. Club Tropicana will be this year’s theme song for this year’s guys with wavy hair, colourful unbuttoned shirts and white jeans. Style guru Marina Kereklidou commented that the outfits the Herreys brothers wore when they won the 1984 Eurovision Final were never been better suited than for the summer of 2010. White, wide slacks, gold shoes and shirts with bright colours. Perfect. People are increasingly realising that the turquoise pool is the place to hang out. Open any lifestyle magazine and the ads from companies like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Bulgari show you that the pool is where beautiful, trendy people are found in 2010. It’s a party and happiness and high spirits are the order of the day. Paris Fashion Week in the autumn of 2009 where fashions for the summer of 2010 and later are shown surprised, if not shocked the public with happy, smiling models. Sonia Rykiel was the vanguard of this new trend with joyful, dancing models who threw kisses to the audience. The crowd went wild! This is how fashion should be shown! Not by emaciated, listless models cloaked with ennui. The fact that supermodel Kate Moss with her bored expression is not easily finding assignments in 2010 says it all. Instead healthy, smiling models are the ones displaying this year’s fashion. Germany’s largest women’s magazine, Birgitte, has also declared a parting of the ways with super-thin super-models who it views as representing something unhealthy. Instead, the magazine chooses ordinary, happy readers who other readers can identify with. Humour and intelligence are important traits for the future. The International Herald Tribune chose John Lennon as one of the icons of style for the next few years. With irony, self-esteem and that glint in his eyes, he introduced the long, crisp 1980s hairstyle, the army fashion and ethnic influences. And there is something in the air about this once almost forgotten working class hero. In early spring, Nowhere Boy premiered, a cinematographic portrayal of John Lennon’s early years and a remake of Yellow Submarine is expected in a year or so. John Lennon’s life and vision fascinates us, nd there is something visual about John Lennon

Hans J. Wegner’s CH 24 and CH 445 in new cool blue colours from Carl Hansen & Søn.

”Instead we can focus on pure joy and with the help of John Lennon, laugh at all the musts and find our own way.” that inspires us too. From his campaigns for peace to the matching unisex clothes he and Yoko Ono wore. And now the Purple fashion magazine published Sean Lennon’s recreation of Annie Liebovitz’s classic photo of John and Yoko in bed. 2010 is the beginning of a new decade and a new way of thinking. Sunshine, beaches and happiness are in. Turquoise serves as a reference but the beach feeling it gives us lets us break loose from lists of what’s in and demands to behave in a certain way. Instead we can focus on pure joy and with the help of John Lennon, laugh at all the musts and find our own way. What should businesses do? Dare to be happy, trot out old logos from the 1980s that we can all laugh at and above all, don’t be afraid to be empathic. ■ 7

Turquoise cookware from Le Creuset.

THE DENHAM STORE

A UNIQUE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE Text: Henrik Lindén

WHETHER YOU’RE A JEANS CONNOISSEUR, A FASHION BUFF, OR SOMEONE WHO JUST WANTS TO EXPERIENCE A UNIQUE STORE, PRINSENGRACHT 493-495 IN AMSTERDAM IS THE ADDRESS YOU SHOULD VISIT. HERE IN THIS LOVELY NEIGHBOURHOOD, LOCATED IN THE NINE STREETS AREA, THE DENHAM HOUSE FIRST OPENED ITS DOORS LAST YEAR. IN THIS METICULOUSLY RENOVATED HOUSE BY A CANAL THAT CONTAINS OFﬁCES, A DESIGN STUDIO, A SHOWROOM, AND A STORE, JASON DENHAM AND HIS TEAM HAVE CREATED A TRIBUTE TO THE HISTORY AND CRAFT OF DENIM.

ince his career began in 1992, denim expert Jason Denham has become a renowned name in the world of jeans. At his first job at Joe Casley-Hayford’s studio, his work included designing jeans for Bono of U2. He then continued his career by gathering valuable experience as the product manager at Pepe Jeans, and eventually starting Clinic+, an innovative consulting firm focused on denim, helping customers such as LVMH, Swift Denim and Kuyichi position their brands on the market. The success of Clinic+ led to the launch of Blue Blood in 2001. The spring of 2009 witnessed the establishment of the Denham brand with its combination of forthright craftsmanship and daring experimentation. This model has prospered, as clearly demonstrated

by the undeniable string of successes that has followed in the past year. “Truth is in the details” is the motto, and absolutely nothing is left to chance when it’s time to create a new collection. There is great respect for tradition, as well as a willingness to challenge it. As Jason Denham expresses it, “We add to tradition through trialand-error, through innovation and invention. Traditions are ignited and energised through inspired acts of respectful revolution.” One important basis for the collections is the Denham Garment Library or DGL. This extensive archive, built up in the course of 15 years, contains a collection of archetypical jeans models, work clothes, uniforms and travel wear from the 20th century to today. The 9

“Traditions are ignited and energised through inspired acts of respectful revolution.”

collection’s models show timelessness and the original ideas that have developed through the centuries. This unique source of tailoring expertise and inspiration is searched, analysed and documented. Together with impressions from the contemporary fashion industry and Denham’s competitors, the DGL serves as vital fuel for the passion that is the engine of the design process. The store in Amsterdam speaks to all the senses, and reflects the philosophy of the trademark. The store is divided into various zones, distinguished through subtle differences in sound, material and visual elements. The first zone, with its minimalism, tells the stories on which the brand is built. In displays, video screens and photographs, we learn about Denham’s approach to craftsmanship, and his view of men’s and women’s fashion. Here is also a small selection of the tailor’s shears included in the DGL. This is exactly the kind of tailor’s shears that Jason used to cut the material for his first pair of jeans, and also serves as the symbol of the brand. Zone One also contains the Blue Salad Bar, where customers can order personally customised jeans, choosing among various kinds of cuts, leatherwork and seams. The jeans are then put together by Jason Denham himself, and can be picked up after a week. We continue through Zones One, Two and Three (Accessories, Japanese Denim, and Ready to Wear), finally arriving at the heart of the store – Denim. This last zone presents the jeans collection, with every model of jeans prominently displayed. The atmosphere with its simple surfaces decorated with antique tailor’s tools, summarises Jason Denham’s approach. It is rare to encounter such a forthright and impassioned brand, and the idea of showing the origin of the products, and sharing personal possessions helps to create an intensive experience of the brand. The shop, studio, sales office, and showroom, together form a common expression of the brand and a unique synchronicity between design, studio, product and customer. ■ LINKS :

www.denhamthejeanmaker.com www.store.denhamthejeanmaker.com 11

FOCUS

1 2

ADD BIRDS CHIRP, CHIRP! THE BIRDS HAVE COME TO OUR HOMES TO STAY. OUR WINGED FRIENDS HAVE INSPIRED DESIGNERS ALL OVER THE WORLD. SOME OF THE BIRDS NESTING HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR DECADES, WHILE OTHERS JUST HATCHED.

This page: 1 Korpi Brother, glass bird by Matti Klenell, Iittala. 2 Eames House Bird, Vitra. 3 Wooden Owl by Matt Pugh. 4 Ping, glass bird by Oiva Toikka, Iittala.

5 Small Bird, by Kristian Vedel, Architectmade.

This page: 6 Uhuu, glass bird by Oiva Toikka for Iittala. 7 Bird Marker, by Hung-Ming Chen, www.designista.se. 8 Iron Ornament Whistling Owl, Tortoise General Store. 9 Cup / tumbler, by Jenny Hager, www.ceramicjen.com. 10 Cool Joe, glass bird by Anu Penttinen, Iittala.

COLLABORATIONS Picture from the premiere of Stella McCartneydesigned clothes for H&M.

Hunting For The Ultimate

Collaboration

Ever since communication became synonymous with marketing, businesses have sought out new forms of collaboration, created networks with joint agendas and co-branded, in an effort to create the right hype for the right target group. Most of these joint efforts do not las, but many achieve their goal from the very start. Come along on a hunt for the ultimate collaboration . . . if it exists that is. Text: Niklas Arvidsson

THE OBVIOUS REASON TO BRING together two strong brands in a joint campaign is so both benefit from it. The bottom line is building one’s image and enabling one’s trademark to grow on markets it would not otherwise have reached. The fact that many iPhones now come with an application called Nike+ is naturally no coincidence. Running and music go hand in hand as both Apple and Nike have realised. A success? Quite probably.

That fashion and furnishing go together is hardly surprising. Design is the common denominator that enables both brands to grow and inspire each other. After a long period of secret furniture designing, Swedish Acne has recently launched its eagerly awaited collections of sofas at a showing in Paris. Its partner is Carl Malmsten, the famous furniture manufacturer. The Scandinavian design brand, Boomerang, is also flirting with the furniture industry, recently forging an alliance with Jens Fager. This young Swedish designer is a rising star who’s known for his wooden furniture. The latest joint venture involves the fashion company, Odd Molly, which has launched a series of exclusive linens produced in cooperation with none other than supermodel Helena Christensen. And while we’re talking about fashion and furnishings, we can hardly ignore Diesel. In 2009 the legendary jeans manufacturer started a joint venture with the world’s leading lighting and furniture manufac14

Bar Stud Stool, by Diesel for Moroso.

turers, Foscarini and Moroso. Renzo Rosso, President of Diesel declared: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Diesel is a lifestyle brand - consumers choose us not only for the product but also for what Diesel represents: the way of life, our values and the ironic, creative and unexpected approach. We decided to start with this adventure to offer to our consumer the possibility to express himself and personalized his home with products he feels near his tasteâ&#x20AC;?. Diesel was chosen because a strong brand likes the company of other strong brands as we can see.

Above: Helena Christensen on a bed made with Odd Molly bed linen. Below: Cumulus chair by Diesel for Moroso. Opposite page from top:

Cage Lamps by

Diesel for Foscarini. Stool No:07, by Jens Fager for Boomerang.

Despite that there are relatively few really successful campaigns between two brands. Timing is everything. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why it can as no surprise when fashion designer Stella McCartney signed joint venture agreements with both H&M and Adidas in 2005. Just a year before, McCartney had her really big breakthrough and had plenty of suitors. Her Adidas contract continues to 2010 and has resulted in several successful collections. The deal with the H&M discount chain gave ordinary people the opportunity to buy her designs at a reasonable price. Naturally, everyone benefited. Stella McCartney became known to a larger audience and Adidas and H&M saw both the media and the public happily rushing to the stores. Was it a success? Absolutely!

There are examples in every industry. Back in 1869, Henry John Heinz started the Heinz company, which naturally is most famous for its ketchup. Today they have thousands of products in their portfolio but that’s a story for another day. What made Heinz ketchup a resounding success was something as simple cooperation and good relations. Heinz simply asked its distributors (the restaurants) to put the ketchup bottles on the tables as part of the decor. Before Heinz launched its world-famous condiment, people served ketchup in ordinary bowls. They don’t do that anymore. Then there are Alpine brands. Plenty of them, but the symbol of the peak of quality is Gore-Tex and there is only one Gore-Tex. So what does a manufacturer of skiwear have to do to get customers to recognise its superior quality? Just put the Gore-Tex logo right over the chest. There we have one of the world’s most obvious alliances and one of the most successful! Today, practically every self-respecting Alpine brand uses Gore-Tex.

”Look at all your product’s good characteristics, and think about who can add most to the image of your brand”

Tired of examples? No? Then let’s talk about beer. Is there any other industry where brands are so easy to link with something lively and exciting than the beer and spirits industry? Heineken has been a proud major sponsor of the Champions League football tournament for many years and Carlsberg is often linked to sport which is apparent from commercials like “probably the best after ski in the world” or “Carlsberg don’t do goalless football but if we did it would be the best goalless football in the world”. Beer brewers know that people drink beer in most situations but especially in connection with sport. Maybe we shouldn’t discuss the ethics of it all here but the fact remains that their brands are stronger than ever.

So, are there any risks in co-branding? Sure and one of them relates to a strong rapper and an even stronger sport brand. In January 2005, performer Pharell Williams and his Bathing Ape got into a dispute with Reebok after the latter ”failed to produced a high enough level of quality and design” for their joint brand, Billionaire Boys Club. Williams sued Reebok for four million dollars and the project ended suddenly with Reebok getting nothing but a damaged reputation. Things like that happen. But as we near the end of this journey of examples in our quest for the ultimate collaboration, we can fortunately conclude that the positive aspects outweigh the negative ones. For our final example, we have Disney and McDonalds. These two champions of successful branding are engaged in a two-front strategy to get us and we fall for it every time. The concept is ridiculously simple. First watch Disney’s latest movie and then go to McDonalds and choose the special menu for that film. This last example can serve as a symbol of everything great about co-branding. Now it’s time to begin to think about possible collaboration. Look at all your product’s good characteristics and think about who can add most to the image of your brand. Together, you can become the next hot topic. Or just maybe....the ultimate collaboration. ■ 17

Top left: Overdyed Lounge Chair. Bottom left: Total flightcase. Below: Xraydio 2 disc, all by Diesel for Moroso.

Above: The chair to the left is the result of the joint venture between the Japanese lifestyle chain Muji and the furniture manufacturer Thonet. Muji manufactured by Thonet is a collection of simplified, stylised Thonet icons made of bentwood and tubular steel. The products are manufactured completely at Thonetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headquarters in Frankenberg, Germany to the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customary high quality standards.

Carpet No:05, by Jens Fager for Boomerang.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT The Nilorn Group’s internal product activity is an important part of its business. We work conti nuously to refine design solutions andfind new materials and production techniques. The whole process chain is fine-tuned during the course  PETROL

of the process, from design and the purchasing

Young people constantly on the go, capricious and restless, with clothing that feels like a hodgepodge without context. With beard and dishevelled hair, the style is almost shabby, but the look is actually carefully planned and crafted. We find inspiration from abandoned buildings, where hard manual labour was once carried out. Sturdy materials that only become more attractive with time and the layered look can be found throughout the concept. The broad palette is always muted, where rust stands out in the crowd.

department to production and logistics. We analyse trends, gather inspiration and infor mation and then create visual platforms for the products. Concepts, as we call them, are the meeting between the product, practical solutions and design. The concepts are brought together in a collection folder that acts as an ideas bank for our customers and cooperating partners. A service that is greatly appreciated.

QANIK

The modern minimalist woman who affirms her femininity by wearing delicate garments directly against her skin. Lingerie with a soft feminine feel, where smooth cotton and shiny silk help to affirm our femininity. Qanik means falling snow in the Greenlandic language. This element with its beautifully sparkling crystals sets the tone for this collection of labels. Our thoughts drift to the cutout snowflakes and origami of our childhood - the art of transforming paper into beautiful things. The pure white feels luxurious in combination with shimmering materials like lurex and glittering varnish.

EARTH

For the environmentally conscious people who give priority to protect the environment but do not want to compromise about design and materials The inspiration comes from planet Earth, green surroundings and fresh water combined with natural materials.

DECO MODA

The target group is 20-35 year old trendy women who follow trends carefully, but are not willing to pay too much and still wish to be able to change outfits frequently. This khaki-flavoured exotic longing brings with it a romantic image of the era of colonialism. Imagine having your very own tame tiger.

 PIETRO BOSELLI This concept is recognized by classic men’s fashion to feature excellent quality. It is strict and elegant, with a feeling for tailor-made details. The inspiration comes from different environments and cultures where uniformity, perfection and strict codes are the norm. Similar to military uniforms there is only a delicate space for a personal expression.

 DUNMORE BROTHERS Dunmore Brother’s aspires to help people live in harmony with nature; the company’s roots run deeply into the earth and sea... The country trend continues to focus on ”green” themes with the revival of the established ”county set” style – but new twists can always be added. Inspired by country pursuits like shooting and hunting as well as by the army equipment of the 1940 and 50s. Farming is also a great source of inspiration for colours, with a scale from earth tones to the rich colours of ripe crops. 25



HALYARD

JEREMIAH JONES & SONS

Water racing games appeal to people willing to make sacrifices for the team, and give their all for their team and sport. The Halyard brand is directed toward the sport of sail racing. Products feature a white ground with light yellow and a ocean blue contrast colours. A treated and water resistant feeling runs through the concept. The inspiration comes from a monoculture theme. Extravagance is kept to a minimum.

Aimed at 30-45 year old males with a high standard in clothing and appearance. The brand name should invoke the feeling of a tradition English mill owner. The clothes are very high quality and have many different materials such as leather, suede, metal and textile. Taking inspiration from work and military uniforms, camouflage, 1940´s industry and architecture. Raw surfaces and the use of durable materials to create practical details like special pockets and loops.

BLEEPS



Bleeps: smart, comfortable clothes for young boys. Loaded with cool features - ideal for school and play. Colourful graphics and cheeky humour appeal to the 5 - 10 year old target group. The labels on this children’s wear collection feature a playful theme inspired by toy robots and electronic components. Some offer functionality such as reflective badges, while others are practical with a space to write the children’s names.

TARGET GROUP

New England style casual clothing at a higher price point. Inspiration comes from the sea, but instead of the obvious the inspiration comes from a young sailor in the 50â&#x20AC;&#x2122;ies with pale tattoos. The labels are worn and wrinkled, appearing as thought they have followed the sailor through the seven oceans many times over.

SALTY & SWEET

Today’s Barbie – she is radiant like few others, lives an independently adventurous life and has unsurpassed self-confidence. We view her with new eyes, with a defiant, ironic look. Couldn’t care less about style, with highlights running the gamut from disco to punk. Maximum volume - maximum optimism! Glamorous 1980s coat grabs the eye, drowning us in bold colours with black, rhinestones, glitter and rivets.

WHYTE INDUSTRIES

For people seeking out creative and trendy neighbourhoods in the big cities. They are well educated, having a profession connected to media and design. The concept is strongly influenced by a rough industrial environment, American work wear and timeless materials.

TARGET GROUP

The target group is 20-35 year olds who gather together, comprising of different religions and viewpoints. They have dreams to start something of their own; such as their own business in handy craft, design, art or music. The brand features casual clothes, pants, hoods and has a large selection of printed t-shirts. Simple clothes with new, fun and creative elements. The inspiration comes from New York City, Williamsburg, old warehouses, street art, walls with posters, graffiti and signs.

TRAVEL

BOOMING SHANGHAI Text: Henrik Lindén

Shanghai has expanded at an astonishing pace in recent decades, and today has the status of one of the world’s most importantﬁnancial and cultural cities. The city, like any other world metropolis, offers an almost limitless range of shopping, restaurants and entertainment. Famous international luxury brands compete to become established here, and star chefs are ﬂown in from all parts of the world. Now the world’s eyes are turning back to Shanghai, as it is hosting World Expo 2010. It is time for a comeback without parallel. 32

Left Page: View of Shanghai and the HuangPu River. This page: Souvenirs at the Yuyuan bazaar. Bowl of noodle soup. View from the popular shopping street Nanjing Road

THE STANDARD OF LIVING ALONG the east coast has massively improved, and the city of Shanghai stands as a dazzling symbol of the new China. More and more residents of Shanghai can call themselves millionaires and the middle class is steadily growing. Further to the west, however, development is proceeding more slowly and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-tech skyscrapers and artificial parks offer a stark contrast to the poor provinces. But, with a constantly developing infrastructure, including extremely high-speed trains, the gap is narrowing. The need to hold this vast country together has been one of the arguments made for the prevailing political system. However, President Hu Jintao declared last year that it will take a long time before the introduction of western democracy becomes a reality. B RIE F HISTORY

Shanghai initially consisted of small fishing villages dispersed around the marshy land in the area. These villages later joined together to form a market town. Since then Shanghai has been a trading metropolis and port, largely thanks to its location, with access 33

to East China Sea and the mouth of the Yangzi. In the 16th century the central parts of the expanding Shanghai region were surrounded by a 5 km long wall. This area is now known as Nanshi, the Old Town. The growth of the city received a massive boost in 1732 when it was stipulated that Shanghai would be the regional headquarters for the collection of customs and other duties. In the 1840s, in the midst of its transformation into a port, large parts of the city were occupied by colonial powers, in particular the British. The city underwent reconstruction and in practice became a western colony, with two different foreign districts with their own administrations, armies, churches, courts and taxation systems. The strongest period of growth for colonial Shanghai came at the beginning of the 20th century. The popular area known as The Bund, with its grand buildings, came into being and banks from all parts of the world opened branches there. During this period more than 800 factories were built and foreign shipping companies moved into Shanghai, which was now of the

What makes Shanghai unique is the mixture of contrasting styles, old and new, western and Chinese. The combination of an energetic, metropolitan pulse, clashing styles and a firm worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most vibrant ports. There followed a number of political upheavals and conflicts. The city gained a seedy reputation with its bars, gambling dens, brothels and wild partying. When the Chinese Communists seized power, Shanghai lost its market economy, but it also shed all its brothels and criminal elements. Foreign companies were nationalised and almost all the foreigners left. After years of stagnation and decline, extensive improvements were made in the 1980s, following the death of Mao. The new administration set itself the goal of restoring Shanghaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s splendour and position as a trading metropolis. In the 1990s the city underwent a massive transformation. On the eastern side of the river, where the New Pudong Area is located, there was nothing until construction of the new district began. Today audacious skyscrapers soar upwards and illuminate the night-time sky.

belief in the future means that no one leaves Shanghai untouched.

WHAT TO SEE

Shanghai cannot boast grand sights and monuments like other Chinese cities. What makes Shanghai unique is the mixture of contrasting styles, old and new, western and Chinese. The combination of an energetic, metropolitan pulse, clashing styles and a firm belief in the future means that no one leaves Shanghai untouched. The Bund After a visit to The Bund it is clear that Shanghai is the city of contrasts. Along one side of the long promenade are reminders of the Shanghai of the 1930s in the shape of the old trading and bank buildings in the European style. Rising up in Pudong, on the other side of the Huang Pu river, are the futuristic skyscra-

Buildings on the Bund.

pers, including the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best restaurants and bars can be found on The Bund. The area has recently been given a facelift, and attracts large numbers of visitors. Both foreigners and Chinese come here just to watch other people, stroll around and soak in the atmosphere. The Old Town (NAN SHI CHU) The Old Town is the name given to what remains within the old city wall. The area was improved for the sake of tourism and contains the Yuyuan bazaar, the famous Yu Garden and the Huxinting tea house. 34

The Yuyuan bazaar consists of a network of narrow alleys between the Chinese houses. It teems with people shopping for everything from cheap make-up to exquisite Chinese handicrafts. The old Huxinting tea house offers much-needed repose after shopping. It is a fine building close to the entrance to Yu Garden. Yu Garden (YU YUAN) This garden was laid out in 1559-1577 and is one of best-known and most well-preserved gardens in southern China. The garden was created for a local official, Pan Yunduan, and consists of a labyrinth of bridges, ponds, rocks and pavilions. Because of the garden’s ingenious design, it feels much larger than it actually is. People’s Square People’s Square stretches out in the centre of Shanghai, next to the popular shopping street known as Nanjing Road, and is a large space with verdant trees and bushes surrounded by impressive buildings. Beneath the square is a large metro station where several lines intersect. The Shanghai Museum and three culture houses are also located here. Inexpensive day tickets can be purchased at any of the ticket offices. Expo 2010 If you travel to Shanghai during the period 1 May to 31 October, be sure not to miss Expo 2010, with the theme “Better City, Better Life”. Visitors can view pavilions and exhibitions from 192 nations. This exhibition is expected to attract up to 70 million visitors. Shanghai has spent more money on this exhibition than China did on the Beijing Olympics. FOOD

Shanghai does not belong to any of the eight great Chinese cuisines, but its food culture makes use of the best of the culinary arts of the other regions. Shanghai’s chefs have also been receptive to influences from the food of other countries. In other words, Shanghainese food satisfies many people’s taste buds. The most characteristic features are tasty brown sauces, generous use of sugar and fish and shellfish. There are, of course, plenty of restaurants from other regions of China, other Asian countries and also from Europe. If you would like to eat typical Shanghai food, there are some local delicacies you should try – if you dare… Dumplings Steamed dumplings with meat, crab or vegetable fillings are on sale everywhere in Shanghai. Chou Dou Fu (Smelly Tofu) This fermented bean curd has an off-putting odour, but those who dare to taste it are agreeably surprised. 35

The smelly curd is served both hot and cold, and is usually eaten with a chilli sauce. Da Zha Xie (Hairy Crab) This delicacy is normally eaten in the late autumn and winter. After being caught in a river the crab is steamed and is usually eaten with vinegar. Pi Dan (Preserved Eggs) This delicacy, known by many different names, including ”thousand year eggs” and “millennium eggs” can scare off the most inveterate foodie. Today the eggs are rarely more than 100 days old, and the special preservation method based on a chemical process has been modernised. Duck’s, hen’s eggs and quail’s eggs are preserved, and the result is a brownish eggwhite and a dark green, creamy yolk with a distinct taste of ammonia.

Quick facts • The ofﬁcial population of Shanghai is more than 18 million. • Language: Chinese. • Currency: Chinese yuan (renminbi). • Taxis are a convenient and cheap way of travelling around Shanghai. Very few taxi drivers speak English so make sure you take a business card for the place you want to be taken to. • Being shanghaied was the fate that befell people who ended up drinking to excess in the wrong pub or getting high in an opium den. There was a serious risk of waking up next morning “employed” on board a ship as slave labour. • When you hand over your business card use both hands and make sure that the text is facing the person who is receiving it. You should also receive cards with both hands. It is considered rude to put the card away in your pocket or bag without looking at it.

Take a few steps away from the major shopping street and you will find yourself in the midst of everyday Chinese life, with washing hung out to dry and scents wafting from restaurants.

At first glance Shanghai is strikingly influenced by the western world, in it’s architecture, food and fashion just like anyother world city. But the soul of the city remains Chinese. The city is growing at breakneck speed but retains its cherished narrow twisting alleys and the dimensions of the little fishing village. Take a few steps away from the major shopping street and you will find yourself in the midst of everyday Chinese life, with washing hung out to dry and scents wafting from restaurants. If you are going to travel to Shangha the weather is at its most pleasant in the spring or autumn. The climate varies greatly between the seasons but on average can be described as mild and damp.

A Really Strong Gorilla Danish wooden toys are world-famous for their quality and timeless look. Kaj Bojesen’s iconic ape was obviously a source of inspiration for the creation by the David Weeks Studio of Hanno the Gorilla - a big, strong and curious fellow who encourages children, big and small, to play with his jointed body. Hanno is made of farmed beech wood that has been harvested in a sustainable manner. However, Hanno will probably live his life on a shelf as a decorative object, just like his Danish cousin.

i-Pad

Last year, the Printer.com website conducted a survey that showed how the choice of font affects a printer’s consumption of toner and ink. The most economical font was Century Gothic. This can mean signiﬁcant savings for those who print large quantities of text documents. Now a Dutch design company has created Ecofont, a font with many holes that save ink. The holes are so small that they can’t be seen with the naked eye in text below 12 point size. Ecofront is also working to produce software that creates these holes in your existing fonts when you print. They promise a 25% savings in consumption to bene ﬁt the environment and your wallet.

Keeping Things in Order Anu Penttinen has created a modular collection of storage containers for Iittala. Create your personal mix of glass, wood and aluminium, to ﬁll with the things you like. The collection has been given a Finnish name, “Vitriini”, which means a showcase. 38

Briefly, the iPad can be described as a big iPhone without telephone functions. Its major areas of use are said to be surfing, e-mail, pictures, videos, music, games and ebooks. Instead of a physical keyboard, the iPhone gives use a fill-size virtual one. Safari, Mail, Calendar, Contacts, Notes, Maps, Photos, Videos, YouTube HD, iPod, iTunes and App Store are included as standard features. App Store allows you to download more than 140,000 third party software products.

Robo Chair The Robo chair from OFFECT provides a new, unique, robot-like design. In fact, the robots in Björk’s and Chris Cunningham’s 1999 music video were what inspired Luca Nichetto to design this chair. “I think the robots in the video that were built and became more human were so exciting, that I couldn’t stop thin king of doing something similar for furniture”. Robo comes in a box that’s only 50 x 50 x 20 cm, and is easy to assemble.