BRANDING & design (Fashion magazine) by NILORN UK

W O R L D W I D E

P U B L I C A T I O N

F R O M

N I L O R N

W O R L D W I D E

D E S I G N

N o .

ALSO: Chronicle: Be different and make a difference / Brand Security and Anti-Counterfeit Measures

M A G A Z I N E

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12 Branding & Design 1 / 2011

4 Foreword

17 Nilorn Product Development

6 Be different and make a difference

Nilorn presents their new collection.

30 Paris

Chronicle by Lotta Ahlvar.

Make the most of the City of Light.

8 House Doctor

37 Brand Security and Anti-Counterfeit Measures

Interview with Rikke Juhl Jensen, designer at House Doctor.

The more successful you become, the more likely you are to see your brand counterfeited.

12 Naoto Fukasawa

40 Find Your Type

A portrait of the master of minimalism.

15 Focus: Black & White

Typographic art and prints.

42 We Like...

Create a graphic and contrasting kitchen milieu.

PAPER: Body: Gallery Art Silk 170 / Cocoon Offset 160 gsm, Cover: Gallery Art Silk 250 gsm. Printed at Kredahl Graﬁska AB, Borås, Sweden.

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisﬁed customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through ﬁrst-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of over SEK 300 m. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India and Turkey. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, India, Bangladesh, Tunisia, Romania and China. www.nilorn.com

12 Branding & Design 1 / 2011

4 Foreword

17 Nilorn Product Development

6 Be different and make a difference

Nilorn presents their new collection.

30 Paris

Chronicle by Lotta Ahlvar.

Make the most of the City of Light.

8 House Doctor

37 Brand Security and Anti-Counterfeit Measures

Interview with Rikke Juhl Jensen, designer at House Doctor.

The more successful you become, the more likely you are to see your brand counterfeited.

12 Naoto Fukasawa

40 Find Your Type

A portrait of the master of minimalism.

15 Focus: Black & White

Typographic art and prints.

42 We Like...

Create a graphic and contrasting kitchen milieu.

PAPER: Body: Gallery Art Silk 170 / Cocoon Offset 160 gsm, Cover: Gallery Art Silk 250 gsm. Printed at Kredahl Graﬁska AB, Borås, Sweden.

FOREWORD HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

Welcome SPRING HAS fINALLY ARRIVED, after a remarkably

SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS

long winter here in Europe, and we also take pleasure in releasing the first issue of our Branding and Design Magazine 2011! The theme for this issue is ñt he importance of being uniqueî an d making sure that you brand and market your product so that it is unique and special and not just something that is copied or created in a factory. We strongly believe that all companies need to invest and focus more on their ñu niqueî b rand identity in order to build the brand or product on a strong foundation. We have put together interviews, articles, trends and recommendations for hotels and restaurants, but also present some of our latest branding ideas from the creative team at Nilorn. I have been in the ñb randing businessî f or more than 20 years, and there has never been a period in which branding has had greater impact and been more important Ð y ou can see some of our concepts and products with the right ñv intage feelî. Some of the products have several unique features: washed and tea-stained cotton ribbon with silk-printed effects, embroidery and metal buttons in old dull-coloured effects Ð i tÍ s fascinating what you can do in the area of branding todayƒ. You are more than welcome to contact us if you need our guidance or support in order to develop and build a unique and strong brand and identity.

NILÖRN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 00 Fax +46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com

Claes af Wetterstedt CEO

The Nilorn Group is an international in the form of labels, packaging and acGroup offers complete, creative and customers are our principal asset, ﬁrst-class service. The Nilorn Group is through its own companies in Sweden, Turkey. In addition, there are partner

BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24, CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel. +41 62 855 27 50 Fax +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com

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We wish you inspiring and pleasant reading.

NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com

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NILORN UK LTD Ofﬁce No 259 Berkeley Square House Berkeley Square London W1J 6BD NILORN GERMANY GMBH UNITED KINGDOM Postfach 110 + 120 Tel. +44 207 887 7610 Blücherstraße 72 - 74 info@uk.nilorn.com 58332 Schwelm company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and design GERMANY cessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. The Nilorn Tel. +49 2336 403-0 tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisﬁed Fax to +49 2336 403-20 and it is therefore important establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through info@de.nilorn.com one of the leading European players, with turnover of over SEK 300 m. The Group operates Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, China, India and companies in Switzerland, India, Bangladesh, Tunisia, Romania and China.

Member of VAUDE Group:

www.vaude.com

FOREWORD HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

Welcome SPRING HAS fINALLY ARRIVED, after a remarkably

SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS

NILÖRN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 00 Fax +46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com

Claes af Wetterstedt CEO

BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24, CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel. +41 62 855 27 50 Fax +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com

NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel. +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com

NILORN BANGLADESH LTD House 38, Road 63 Gulshan-02 Dhaka 1212 BANGLADESH Tel. +880 288 35 912/913 info@bd.nilorn.com

NILORN SHANGHAI Cheng Jia Qiao Rd. 238 CN-201103 Shanghai CHINA Tel. +86-21-55348268 Fax +86-21-64019750 info@sh.nilorn.com

NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel. +32 9 210 40 90 Fax +32 9 252 55 73 info@be.nilorn.com

NILORN TURKEY Nilorn Etiket San. Ve Tic. Ltd Sti Ataturk Mahallesi Marmara Sanayi Sitesi. B-27 Ikitelli, Istanbul 346 70 TURKEY Tel. +90 212 4720513 Fax. +90 212 4720521 info@tr.nilorn.com

NILORN DENMARK A/S Vestergade 48, 5000 Odense C, DENMARK Tel. +45 70 23 16 23 Fax +45 66 13 48 31 info@dk.nilorn.com

We wish you inspiring and pleasant reading.

NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com

NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel. +852 2 371 2218 Fax +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com

NILORN UK LTD Acre Park Dalton Lane, Keighley West Yorkshire BD21 4JH UNITED KINGDOM Tel. +44 1535 673 500 Fax +44 1535 673 519 info@uk.nilorn.com

Member of VAUDE Group:

www.vaude.com

CHRONICLE

Text: LOTTA AHLVAR CEO The Swedish Fashion Council

be different and make a difference he economy is on the way up again in Sweden, the Swedish krona is stronger than ever, and consumers are in buoyant mood after a winter of record-low temperatures. The recovery has been under way since last year for the fashion industry. But anxiety also spread through the whole fashion industry last year. The industry has been rapidly hit by cost inflation: rising prices for raw materials (the price of cotton has more than doubled in a year), rising wage levels in China, higher transport costs as a result of rocketing oil prices and shortage of capacity in the factories in Asia. But opportunities are obviously opening up for quick-thinking, smart and daring companies: finding new materials and alternative blends with cotton, short transport routes, looking for new suppliers and discovering new and familiar countries for production. Necessity, as everyone knows, is the mother of invention. Rethinking and innovations are born out of crisis. And daring to be unique, follow new paths and do things in a completely different way may prove to be a winning formula for the future. There could be unexpected forms of cooperation between industries or - why not - between diametrically opposed brands. An example is Coca Cola and the chair manufacturer Emeco, whose classic aluminium Navy Chair has been supplied to the US Navy since 1944. This unique cooperation has resulted in a new chair. Although the design is the same, the material is completely new and the chair is made from recycled PET bottles. To be precise, it consists of 111 bottles, which has also prompted the new name, 111 Navy Chair. The Y3 brand is another example, and is the result of cooperation between the Japanese fashion designer 6

Yohji Yamamoto and the sportswear company Adidas, with the ingenious name alludingto the two cooperating partners. The number 3 stands for the three trademark-protected bars Adidas has in its logo. Today, sportswear is a common sight on the catwalks, but when Y3 started this was a unique and innovative idea. Some forms of cooperation are one-off, while others are more long-lasting. Filippa K has at regular intervals created various porcelain cups for RĹĄ rstrand, which are also known as Filippa K mugs. Something new does not always need to be entirely new, a rebirth may be sufficient. Or a glance in the rear-view mirror. Another new yet familiar initiative is the material viscose, which is made from domestic forest raw material. Interesting opportunities are opening up here. And new customers are prepared to pay extra for refined products. While this would have seemed completely utopian fifteen years ago, today it is entirely possible in view of the escalating cost inflation now hitting the global clothing industry with full force. And why not watch out and at the same time think another unthinkable thought: a reborn blue-and-yellow textile industry. More and more companies are adopting more sustainable production and carbonsmart logistics all the way to the store. And locally produced clothing made from domestic raw materials will then emerge as an alternative both for clothing chains and for consumers. 2011 may prove to be the year in which Sweden starts to take production back and develops new materials based on raw material from our own forest industry. Daring to be unique will pay off in the future.

ABOVE: Fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto. RIGHT: The Emeco 111 Navy Chair with CocaCola. Made from 111 recycled plastic bottles. BELOW: Coffee cup by Filippa K for RĂśrstrand.

CHRONICLE

Text: LOTTA AHLVAR CEO The Swedish Fashion Council

ABOVE: Fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto. RIGHT: The Emeco 111 Navy Chair with CocaCola. Made from 111 recycled plastic bottles. BELOW: Coffee cup by Filippa K for RĂśrstrand.

INTERVIEW

A healthy dose of design:

HOUSE DOCTOR With its unmistakable style, the Danish company, House Doctor, has met with considerable success in the world of interior design. Their products radiate personality, and the idiom is a lively mix of the playful, the beautiful, the modern, the vintage and the trendy. We managed to track down Rikke Juhl Jensen, partner and designer, and put some questions to her. THE BROTHER AND SISTERS, Rikke Juhl Jensen, Gitte

Juhl Capel and Klaus Juhl Pedersen set up House Doctor in 1999. House Doctor is available throughout Europe, in New Zealand, Israel and many other countries. The broad product range extends over kitchen accessories, vases and furniture, and includes an exclusive collection of clothes and accessories – and much, much more! The products are designed and developed in Denmark. Production, which reflects total respect for the environment and the workforce, has been largely sourced to the Far East. five quick questions to Rikke Juhl Jensen: Likes: Good design Dislikes: False people Destination: New York food: Cheese and red wine Music: Tina Dico

Describe House Doctor is three words. ñPas sion, personality, credibility. We are committed to our work, we put personality in everything we do, so it is credible.î How did you come up with the name, House Doctor? “We first came across the name in a Scandinavian magazine. The article was about young people leaving home, and needing the help of a ïHus DoktorenÍ to make the most out of their accommodation, given the very small space and their very limited budget. ThatÍ s where we got the name, House Doctor Ð we translated it into English to give it international currency.î

Where do your designers find their inspiration? ñA nywhere and everywhere. You never know when inspiration will strike. Naturally, we travel a great deal, both in the East, and to major cities in Europe and the USA. Personally, I find it very inspiring to visit our suppliers and see what they can do in a technical sense.î So who is the typical House Doctor customer? ñWe are particularly pleased that we have a wide customer base. We donÍ t limit ourselves by age or type, but try to reach the widest possible public. But if I had to pin it down, I would say we target women in the 25-40 age group.î Have you a personal favourite among your products? ñI have a soft spot for the designed furniture in our range, like the Desktop Br0111, and the small chest of drawers, Br0110. They help create definition, and make our style unique.î Are there any products you regret producing? ñN o, but there are some things I have got a bit tired of, over the years.î

INTERVIEW

A healthy dose of design:

INTERVIEW

What do you think will be the next big thing, after the current Industrial Vintage look? “The White Issue – the colour white! But I also think we’ll see much more mixed interior trends. Not just running with one style, but blending the best of several styles.î What do you feel makes a perfect home? îPer sonality. I love beautiful things which are significant to me. I love coming into a home which radiates personality, and reflects the people who live there.” Are there any furnishing tips you could share with our readers? Be kind to your home, nourish it! Buy some flowers, light candles, cook some good food in the kitchen, and think of your home as a child that needs some new clothes sometimes.î

tî hink of your home as a child that needs some new clothes sometimesî

Where will House Doctor be in ten years? “The first ten years, 2001-2010, have been highly successful. ItÍ s been a great journey. We are well aware that the store culture will change in the long run, but we are determined to meet any challenge thrown at us. Personally, I hope that the next ten years will see us in an even stronger position in the Danish and international markets.î Considering your success; have you any plans to start your own retail chain? ”No. We already have so many excellent retailers, and they are doing very well, so we have no plans to set up our own outlets at presentî. House Doctor offers a broad range, but are there still product areas you want to explore? ñY ou never know. There are no limits Ð if we believe in an idea, we will go with itî. What roles do Klaus, Gitte and Rikke play? ñK laus handles the administration as CEO and Sales Manager. Gitte is responsible for purchasing and I (Rikke) am the designer. We each have our own areaî. 10

INTERVIEW

tî hink of your home as a child that needs some new clothes sometimesî

PORTRAIT

Since his landmark breakthrough with the CD player for Muji, Naoto fukasawa has confirmed his status as Japan’s most influential designer, and his fame has spread internationally. Even though many of the products which leave his studio are not sold outside Japan, he has achieved cult status among designers all over the world.

AS AN INDUSTRIAL DESIGNER, NAOTO

naoto fukasawa master of minimalism

Fukasawa is best-known for stylish and functional everyday products. He rejects categories, and prefers to use the term ñl ifestyle toolsî. These subtly understated products reflect the poetic and philosophical ideas he loves to share with anyone willing to listen. What also sets Fukusawa apart is his unique ability to create harmony from the clash between the timeless and the new. At first glance, his products might seem anonymous, perhaps even sterile, but in most cases the object is such a natural part of its context or environment that it blends into the entirety. There are often playful and amusing details, such as a bowing telephone or a cruet set designed to look like a pair of maracas. Fukasawa is open-minded, making little use of the mass media and the Internet, preferring to seek inspiration and influences in nature, and looking at how people integrate with their environment. He insists in interviews that his ideas are born when he meets his customers, and if they donÍ t come then, they never will. Companies all over the world are queuing up to collaborate with Fukasawa. CAREER

Naoto Fukasawa was born in Japan in 1956. In 1980, he graduated from the Product Design Institute at Tama Art University. Until 1988, he was employ12

ed as a designer with the Seiko-Epson Corp. In the following year, Fukusawa moved to the USA, more precisely to San Francisco, where he joined a small design office. Today, the office, now known as IDEO, has 450 employees in San Francisco, Palo Alto, Boston, Chicago, London and Munich. After eight years with IDEO, he returned to Japan, where he set up an IDEO office, focussing on the Japanese market. In 2002, he left to form his own company. At the same time, Fukasawa took a seat on the Board of MUJI. In 2003, Naoto Fukasawa joined forces with the Japanese toy-making giant, Takara, to launch the company and store chain, ±0 (Plus Minus Zero). The vision is to sell household articles and electronic gadgets. Apart from the brilliantly-designed range, the stores differ from others of the same type in that the product ranges sold are conceived as collectables, and are produced for a limited period. During his outstanding career, Fukasawa has collected over 50 awards, including the American IDEA Gold Award, the German if Gold Award and the British D&AD Gold Award Naoto Fukasawa is now Design Supremo at Plusminuszero. A couple of years ago, his monograph was published, with illustrations of his collected works. It is a bible for designers throughout the world, who see him as a model and a source of inspiration.

1. fAN, for ±0, www.plusminuszero.jp. 2. PAPILIO CHAIR. Produced by B&B Italia 2008,

www.bebitalia. 3. WALL CLOCK, for ±0, www.plusminuszero.jp. 4. MARACAS, for ±0, www.plusminuszero.jp. 5. HUMIDIfIER, for ±0, www.plusminuszero.jp. 6. CD-PLAYER, Muji. www.muji.com. 7. LOG BENCH, Swedese. www.swedese.se. 4.

PORTRAIT

AS AN INDUSTRIAL DESIGNER, NAOTO

naoto fukasawa master of minimalism

Naoto Fukasawa was born in Japan in 1956. In 1980, he graduated from the Product Design Institute at Tama Art University. Until 1988, he was employ12

1. fAN, for ±0, www.plusminuszero.jp. 2. PAPILIO CHAIR. Produced by B&B Italia 2008,

FOCUS

BLACK & WHITE We are inspired by what

couturiersÍ can do with black and white, and we

1. WHITE ELEMENTS PLATE, Royal Copenha-

look to create a graphic and

PENDANT LIGHT by Broberg & Ridderstråle for

gen. www.royalcopenhagen.com. 2. PLUGGED 2

Muuto. www.muuto.com. 3. TEA-POT by Front for Höganäs, www.hoganaskeramik.se. 4. VIPP DISHWASHING BRUSH, www.vipp.com. 5. BOWL by Filippa K for Rörstrand, www.rorstrand.se. 6. VIPP SALT & PEPPER MILL, www.vipp.com. 7. PLUS SALT & PEPPER MILL by Norway Says for Muuto. www.muuto.com. 8. SURfACE EGG-CUP by Ole Jensen for Muuto. www.muuto.com. 8. SURfACE EGG-CUP by Ole Jensen for Muuto. www.muuto.com. 9. MADEMOISELLE OISEAU ESPRESSO-CUP, by Lovisa Burfitt and Anna Lerinder for Rörstrand. 10. PURE BLACK KNIVES, by HolmbäckNordentoft for Stelton. 11. CAST IRON CASSEROLE, by Timo Sarpaneva for Iittala. 12. HEIMA CANDLEHOLDERS, by Francis Cayouette for Normann Copenhagen. 13. CH29 CHAIR, by Hans J wegner for Carl Hansen & Søn. 14. KRENIT BOWL by Herbert Krenchel for Normann Copenhagen. www. normann-copenhagen.com.

contrasting kitchen milieu.

FOCUS

BLACK & WHITE We are inspired by what

couturiersÍ can do with black and white, and we

1. WHITE ELEMENTS PLATE, Royal Copenha-

look to create a graphic and

PENDANT LIGHT by Broberg & Ridderstråle for

gen. www.royalcopenhagen.com. 2. PLUGGED 2

contrasting kitchen milieu.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Nilorn Product Development

NilornÍ s internal product activity is an important part of its business. We work continuously to refine design solutions and find new materials and production techniques. The whole process chain is fine-tuned during the course of the process, from design and the purchasing department to production and logistics. We analyse trends, gather inspiration and information and then create visual platforms for the products. Concepts, as we call them, are the meeting between the product, practical solutions and design. The concepts are brought together in a collection folder that acts as an ideas bank for our customers and cooperating partners. A service that is greatly appreciated.

16 Butikker: LiLLe StrandStræde 22, kBH · iLLum, kBH · maGaSin, kBH · JernBaneGade 12, odenSe · GuLdSmedGade 34, ÅrHuS · info 39 29 88 44 · www.Bittekairand.dk

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Nilorn Product Development

16 Butikker: LiLLe StrandStræde 22, kBH · iLLum, kBH · maGaSin, kBH · JernBaneGade 12, odenSe · GuLdSmedGade 34, ÅrHuS · info 39 29 88 44 · www.Bittekairand.dk

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

ROYAL DENIM. Royal Denim is the type of jeans manufacturer that digs deep into their archives to find that perfect, genuine feel and design. They are obsessed with tradition and quality; nothing must be left to chance. Everything from fabrics to studs is visible down to the smallest detail. They explore the history of clothing as part of their design process, spending several hours in vintage clothes shops and surplus stock, where designers gather knowledge and inspiration. 18

INSPIRATION Royal Denim demands the use of authentic materials and surface finishes. Genuineness is the guiding principle. The philosophy of the brand must be conveyed, with its genuine handicraft. Everything must ultimately be branded and packaged as attractive and distinctive products. At Nilรถrn, these principles have guided us on our road to success.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INSPIRATION The inspiration comes mainly from what we call “shabby chic” and French country style. But there are also details from Danish industry. It’s an eclectic mix of colour, art, acrylic, fabric, metal, wood, and glass from everywhere. There are things that look beautiful all by themselves, other things that look old and worn, and then there are those things that represent our loved ones, our travels, our memories, or even our secret desires. A romantic and genuine style in praise of years gone by.

ABIGAIL. At Abigail E. Williams, we enjoy decorating and surrounding ourselves with beautiful things. We cherish white, not overly frayed, artistic and functional items, with hints of pastel colours and quality materials. Add a touch of elegance and simplicity to your home with our latest products.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

d. n a b s u h r e h with r e h t e g o t d e n ed r o l i a t which she ow d l o e ze th i s a h p m rom e f I s t y n h e w m s r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; a t g a h n T sent i e r p s y a w l a r of o o l f feel that was d n u o r g the n o p o h s e l t t i ded i v o r p that l o s l a s ast ha p ts. e h n T e . m e r s a u g o h y r m i e th ng on i l l e b a l e h t r ts o f c e j n b o o i t s a u r o i i p c s e in l, pr u f r e d n o w e h lt ouse. I think of al h d l o r i e h t ears. y n i e h d t n r i e f v o d l d u loure o you co c s i d d a h t es tha es. l x o d e b e d n r g a n o i b d n r r Ca e da g u h d n a d a e thr Fine reels of

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INSPIRATION

Throughout her life, my grandmother, Ammy, worked as a seamstress in her tailor shop, which she owned together with her husband. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why I emphasize the old tailored feel that was always present in garments from that little shop on the ground floor of their house. The past has also provided the inspiration for the labelling on my garments. I think of all the wonderful, precious objects you could find in their old house. Cardboard boxes that had discoloured over the years. Fine reels of thread and huge darning needles.

AMMY. Real clothes in natural fibres such as wool, silk, cotton and linen. Must-haves for women, 18-35 years old. The fabric and needlework is reminiscent of the quality of many years ago, so these clothes can be passed on from generation to generation. Garments to cherish and use.

mst a e s d. a n a s b a s u d e h k r e h wor with r e h t e g o t d e n ed r o l i a t which she ow d l o e ze th i s a h p m rom e f I s t y n h e w m s r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; a t g a h n T sent i e r p s y a w l a r of o o l f feel that was d n u o r g the n o p o h s e l t t i ded i v o r p that l o s l a s ast ha p ts. e h n T e . m e r s a u g o h y r m i e th ng on i l l e b a l e h t r ts o f c e j n b o o i t s a u r o i i p c s e in l, pr u f r e d n o w e h lt ouse. I think of al h d l o r i e h t ears. y n i e h d t n r i e f v o d l d u loure o you co c s i d d a h t es tha es. l x o d e b e d n r g a n o i b d n r r Ca e da g u h d n a d a e thr Fine reels of

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INSPIRATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

AMELIA. Functional clothes for women between 20 and 45, with an emphasis on classic styles. Timeless design in combination with durability and function are the key words for this collection.

INSPIRATION

The major inspiration comes from the life, time and fashions of Amelia Earhart. The first woman to fly across the Atlantic, she had a fierce ambition and sense of adventure. Maybe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a bit of a clichĂŠ, but Amelia Earhart is really an inspiration to all women. On her daring long-distance flights, she often wore a leather jacket, riding breeches and riding boots.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

AMELIA. Functional clothes for women between 20 and 45, with an emphasis on classic styles. Timeless design in combination with durability and function are the key words for this collection.

INSPIRATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

PORTLAND BLUE. WeÍ ve re-interpreted the classic preppy style, imbuing it with marine and military influences, to create a more relaxed style known as ñb roken preppyî.

There are lots of opportunities to mix and match in your quest for your own style. Try combining a button-down shirt with a blazer, for example, or a pair of jeans with a pair of somewhat worn Converses. Or why not clash a bit with a pair of sturdy boots, a bowtie and blazer? INSPIRATION

You should feel like you overslept with a beautiful lady at your side. Your hair dishevelled, a crooked tie, somewhat muddy sneakers, and your notebook and pen aloft as you rush to an important lecture. That’s broken preppy.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

PORTLAND BLUE. WeÍ ve re-interpreted the classic preppy style, imbuing it with marine and military influences, to create a more relaxed style known as ñb roken preppyî.

www.anasousa.com

ANA SOUSA

www.anasousa.com

ANA SOUSA

PARIS

The Kube Hotel and Hotel Sezz are members of Design Hotels™. Bookings through www.designhotels.com or via the appropriate toll-free number.

Places To Stay

When the flowers are in bloom, make the most of / D9 LO O H/ X P Læ U H, the City of Light.

Paris is officially the world’s most visited city; each year millions of tourists travel to the French capital, widely regarded as the loversÍ capital of the world. The Paris they seek is one of drama, intrigue and romance, yet it is also a global hotspot for art, fashion, cuisine and culture. A visit to Paris leaves virtually no one untouched. Whether you are looking for the culinary delights of French cuisine, or indulging in exclusive clothing brands, you´re guaranteed to find everything you could want. Paris has food and shopping IRUDO OWDV W HV DQ GE XGJ HW V) URP WKHW KULYLQ J E XVLQ HV VGLVW ULFW R I/ D' æI HQ VH to the relaxed, bohemian lifestyle of Montmartre, Paris is both a centre of global commerce and a birthplace of creative art - with so many people determined to visit each year, ParisÍ unique charm cannot be overstated. 30

1. The Kube Hotel Tucked into a tiny, quiet street at the summit of ParisÍ Montmartre is a retro-future hotel that defies the classical clichés of Paris, fitting rather into a Jacques Tati vision of modernity. The Kube Hotel combines a resolutely geometric sense of architecture, as its name suggests, with a 1960s sci-fi theme in its furnishings and décor, producing a feast for the eyes and senses.

1Ð5, pa ssage Ruelle 75018 Paris www.designhotels.com/kube Situated in the heart of the XVIIIth district, a few steps away from Montmartre, Kube is tucked away in a quiet street, sheltered from the cityÍ s bustle.

care of; but its intimate interiors, with colour schemes calculated to echo ParisÍ basic palette of beige stone, gray slate and blue-gray sky, offer a significant update on high-end French hospitality.

2. Hotel Sezz Tucked behind a classic Art Nouveau fa¥ ade, Hotel Sezz Paris is a haute-design mecca that places extraordinary emphasis on service, shaking up the elegant Right Bank Passy district in the process. With a sweeping view of the Eiffel tower from its hillside location across the Seine, Design Hotel Sezz has one Parisian ïmustÍ taken

6 Avenue Fremiet 75016 Paris www.designhotels.com/hotelsezz

PARIS

The Kube Hotel and Hotel Sezz are members of Design Hotels™. Bookings through www.designhotels.com or via the appropriate toll-free number.

Places To Stay

When the flowers are in bloom, make the most of / D9 LO O H/ X P Læ U H, the City of Light.

6 Avenue Fremiet 75016 Paris www.designhotels.com/hotelsezz

Shopping

Le Garde Robe

As well as being a destination for lovers, Paris is held in equally high esteem by shoppers. Certain streets, VXFKDVWKH) DXERXUJ 6 DL Q W+ RQ RUæ Boulevard Hausmann, Avenue Montaigne, Avenue des Champs Elysées and Rue Bonaparte are unmissable for anyone wanting an A-Z of high-end designer fashion, as well as other prestigious establishments selling homeware, cosmetics and antiques.

This tiny wine bar, where bottles line the walls like books in a library, is perfect for an end-of-theday snifter, preferably accompanied by one of the platters of delicious Parma ham, cheese or oysters. Organic and biodynamic wines stand their ground alongside vintages from around the world.

41 Rue de lÇ Arbre-Sec,1st Paris

Zadig & Voltaire Zadig & Voltaire takes many of its design cues from the world of music and does much to promote emerging musicians through self-titled compilations; all in the name of ’affordable luxury’.

USEFUL FACTS If you include the suburbs surrounding central Paris, the city has around 10.5 million inhabitants in total, distributed over the 20 smaller districts, arrondissements, which make up Greater Paris. To find your way round Paris easily, it is important to know which arrondissement the street you are looking for is located, as many streets in the city share the same names.

22 Rue Bourg Tibourg 75004 Paris (0) 1 44 593 964 www.zadig-et-voltaire.com Colette This renowned and much-imitated one-stop concept and lifestyle store features a highly eclectic selection of must-have accessories, fashion, sneakers, books, media, shiny new gadgets.

Paris Info: The official site of the Paris Convention and Visitors Centre. Filled with up-to-date information for tourists, as well as listings for events and goings-on around the city. http://en.parisinfo.com/

X H6 W+ RQ RU æ V W 75001 Paris www.colette.fr

Restaurants & Bars Many people believe that France has the best food in the world. And as for the wine...... The traditional menu is based on ingredients produced in the country, with lots of herbs, vegetables, cheese and, of course, wine. Parisians buy the best ingredients from markets or small specialist shops, such as cheesemongers. Paris has a huge number of fantastic restaurants, and here are some of our favourites. Le Chateaubriand This French haute cuisine restaurant is listed among the 50 best in the world, although it is unlike any other. An eclectic and affordable restaurant that is a must-visit. 129 Avenue Parmentier 75011 Paris (0) 1 43 574 595 www.lechateaubriand.com

APC A new boutique, focusing primarily on accessories and denim.

Kong This cool hangout occupies the top two floors of the LVMH building above Kenzo. With interior design by Philippe Starck and music by resident DJ Laurent Ta¥ eb, Kong is one of ParisÍ coolest and most exclusive nightspots. 1 Rue de Pont-Neuf 75001 Paris (0) 1 40 390 900 www.kong.fr/

Au Bon Accueil This charming bistro is located a few minutes from the Eiffel Tower, and offers excellent food at reasonable prices, unusual for an establishment so close to a major tourist area.

1, rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris www.apc.fr Neila Vintage and Design A favourite of Paris stylists, with collections from CardinÍ s, GivenchyÍ s and YSLÍ s best moments. Expensive, but a real source of inspiration.

14 Rue de Monttessuy 75007 Paris (0) 1 47 054 611

28 rue du Mont-Thabor Paris

Shopping

Le Garde Robe

41 Rue de lÇ Arbre-Sec,1st Paris

X H6 W+ RQ RU æ V W 75001 Paris www.colette.fr

APC A new boutique, focusing primarily on accessories and denim.

Au Bon Accueil This charming bistro is located a few minutes from the Eiffel Tower, and offers excellent food at reasonable prices, unusual for an establishment so close to a major tourist area.

14 Rue de Monttessuy 75007 Paris (0) 1 47 054 611

28 rue du Mont-Thabor Paris

DonÍ t Miss! 3. Ladurée Paris Decadence permeates this elegant tearoom, from the 19th century-style interior and service to the labyrinthine corridors that lead to the toilets. /DGXUæHDUHIDPRXVI RUWKHL UORYHO \ 0 DFDU RRQ VK HU HLV 7 KH7 UXH6W RU\ R IWKH/DGXUæH0 DFDU RRQ

Nightlife Paris is never boring, the city is always seething and vibrant, and night or day, there’s always something to do. At L´Arc when the fine weather settles in, the veranda disappears and the night continues under a starlit sky. 4. L’Arc Paris Very few addresses have such a strong impact on the heart of all Paris lovers: The Arc de Triomphe, dominating the Golden Triangle and the most lovely avenue in the world. Behind the walls of a handsome Napoleon III private mansion, L’Arc Paris is an exceptional address where gastronomy and music combine to create an elegant and contemporary ambiance created by architect Samy Chams. 12, rue de Presbourg 75116 Paris 7æ O www.larc-paris.com

Le Monde One of France’s largest national newspapers.

Time Out

Metro Map

A full and concise look at all

Useful resource for getting

there is to do in Paris. Includes a

around Paris using the

comprehensive calendar of events

Metro system.

with categories such as Art, Clubs,

Le Pompon From synagogue to nightclub - nothing is sacred. Paris newest club, Le Pompon, has transformed a former synagogue into a restaurant, nightclub and bar. The cheeky owners have already managed to attract ParisÍ chicest night-owls to the red light district of Pigalle. Rumour has It that the door is wide open to anyone who wants to party.

These small, round cakes, crisp on the outside, smooth DQ GVRIW LQ WKHP LGGOHDU H/DGXUæH¯ VP RVW I DPRXV creation. 7 KHVW RU\ R IWKH/DGXUæHP DFDU RRQ VW DU W VDW the beginning of the 20th century, when Pierre ' HV IRQ W DL Q HV DV HFRQ GF RXVLQ R I/ RXLV( UQ HV W / DGXUæH first thought of taking two macaroon shells and joining them with a delicious ganache filling.

Culture

These lovely cakes are made every morning in /DGXUæH¯ VÓ ODERUDW RU\ Ð7 KHSDV W U\ F KHIVP HDV XUHRXW very precisely the required amounts of almonds, eggs and sugar, before adding one final ingredient, a pinch RIX Q LTXHÓN Q RZ KRZ ÐHV VHQ W LDO WRWKHP DN LQ J R IVXFK a delicacy. Once cooked and filled, the macaroons are put to one side for 2 days before going on sale, the time it takes to achieve a perfect balance between texture and flavour. :L W KHDFKQ HZVHDV RQ / DGXUæHS D\ VWULEXW HW RLW VP RVW famous creation by creating a new flavour. The existing range of macaroons is always the starting point when a new one is created, as the variety of colours is as important as the range of flavours, and a vital part of their appeal.

For art lovers, Paris offers one of the worldÍ s largest collection of paintings, antiques and other artistic genres; many Parisian museums, such as the Louvre DQ GWKH0 XVæHG ¯ 2 UVD\ I HDW XUHSULFHO HVZ RUNVR IDUW E\ the true masters of classic and contemporary art alike. Pompidou Center Place Georges Pompidou 75004 Paris www.centrepompidou.fr Musée d’art moderne D YH Q X HGX 3 U æ VLGH Q W : LOVRQ 75116 Paris www.mam.paris.fr

39, rue des Petites-Ž curies, 10:e arr.

VIP Room The place to go for top name DJs, artists and events. Take That and Madonna have both launched albums here, and you will often come across Paris Hilton and Lady Gaga - even fashion designers such as J.Cole have held after-show parties and showcases here. 188 Rue de Rivoli 75008 Paris (0) 1 58 364 600 www.viproom.fr/

Film, Museums and Galleries.

D YGH V& KD P SV( O\V æ HVW K 75008 Paris www.laduree.fr

Designpack Gallery Too much packaging? Not according to Fabrice Peltier who is passionate about the art of emballage, to the extent of opening his own gallery-boutique not far from W KH0 XVæHG HV $ UW V' æF RUDW LIV+ HQ RZ UHF\ FOHV K LVR Z Q used packaging into desirable objects. And there is a fascinating library of books about packaging past and present. 24 rue de Ricelieu, 1st 75001 Paris www.designpackgallery.fr

www.timeout.com/paris/

Le Monde One of France’s largest national newspapers.

Time Out

Metro Map

A full and concise look at all

Useful resource for getting

there is to do in Paris. Includes a

around Paris using the

comprehensive calendar of events

Metro system.

with categories such as Art, Clubs,

Culture

These lovely cakes are made every morning in /DGXUæH¯ VÓ ODERUDW RU\ Ð7 KHSDV W U\ F KHIVP HDV XUHRXW very precisely the required amounts of almonds, eggs and sugar, before adding one final ingredient, a pinch of unique ñk now-howî, es sential to the making of such a delicacy. Once cooked and filled, the macaroons are put to one side for 2 days before going on sale, the time it takes to achieve a perfect balance between texture and flavour. :L W KHDFKQ HZVHDV RQ / DGXUæHS D\ VWULEXW HW RLW VP RVW famous creation by creating a new flavour. The existing range of macaroons is always the starting point when a new one is created, as the variety of colours is as important as the range of flavours, and a vital part of their appeal.

39, rue des Petites-Ž curies, 10:e arr.

Film, Museums and Galleries.

D YGH V& KD P SV( O\V æ HVW K 75008 Paris www.laduree.fr

www.timeout.com/paris/

ANTI-COUNTERFEIT

Brand Security and Anti-Counterfeit Measures Nilorn has a wide range of options to cover most eventualities. More importantly, we also have the means and the experience to implement controls in the supply chain that will underpin an effective campaign against the counterfeit criminals.

www.fussl.at

Text: Steve Ablett.

he current and anticipated state of most Western European economies, means that a previously buoyant retail sector will have to fight ever harder for their consumers cash in the foreseeable future, as demand adjusts itself to suit a more frugal lifestyle for the majority. At the same time as the recession bites, we are seeing global increases in the cost of materials, labour

and distribution Ð which are driving High Street apparel costs ever higher. This makes it imperative for retailers and brands alike, to offer their customers an “added-value” experience in order to protect their margins Ð which in terms of the garment industry, means successfullymarketing your brand. .....And the more successful you become, the more 37

ANTI-COUNTERFEIT

www.fussl.at

Text: Steve Ablett.

ANTI-COUNTERFEIT

”Natural fibres such as cotton and wool already have a DNA signature that allows their origin and to be traced Ð o ften to within a few hectares!î likely you are to see your brand counterfeited. It is estimated that counterfeit garments account for nearly 15% of all the apparel traded globally, an amount running to billions of Euros Ð with shoes being the single most counterfeited products. Not only do these cheap copy-garments undermine the quality and integrity of the targeted brand but also this criminal activity thrives on the success of your marketing Ð which must hurt. So, as part of NilornÍ s client service, we have developed a range of different strategies for countering this and similar problems with the ultimate objective of protecting your brand. There are many different devices, both covert and overt, that can be used to provide a simple means of product authentication; Holograms, UV/IR Reagents etc. Ð letÍ s call these ñt aggersî. Nilorn can also use clients order data to produce labels that have garment and supplier- specific information such as style, order number, date and ñs erialî number. These tags and/or labels can be scanned at any point in the distribution channel to verify not only authenticity Ð but also origin. This is not only a counter to the forgers but also allows you to trace parallel imports and potential issues within your own supply chain. LetÍ s call these devices ñt rackersî. It has to be said that none of these measures will have any effect unless they are tightly controlled and distribution is fully auditable. The client MUST take control of this process and have a clear idea and understanding of the benefits to be gained. At the very least the client should have sight of all orders for security labels. NilornÍ s web order management system provides an ideal vehicle for this process, by managing the deployment of brand collateral in supply chain. It also allows the client to take charge of the process, through the provision of their data. However, before we consider recommending a specific solution, we must understand whether our client wishes to deploy a strategic deterrent or if they have a specific problem. In the case of the former we can help our client to find an appropriate measure to suit their product and their budget. 38

Typically this would mean the use of a ñt aggerî. In the case of the latter, we must establish whether the ultimate outcome will lead to prosecution Ð as this will help us to determine what measures may be required. This will almost certainly require a ñt rackerî, possibly alongside a covert tagger. SO WHAT ARE OUR OPTIONS?

Covert measures such as hidden UV or Infra-Red reagents in ink or fibres are simple and effective – but easy to copy. A single thread with an IR reagent in the polyester, is much more difficult to emulate. IR reagents are can also be adapted to react differently when exposed to different energy sources – which makes them more difficult for the forgers to detect and copy. There are a number of proprietary solutions on the market that use special inks or create ñi nvisibleî patterns in printed images. The latter is an interesting option, in that it creates the possibility of changing the pattern by batch or date, to make them traceable. However, as ink-borne devices, these are usually applied only to packaging and not product and therefore might be thought to have limited viability in the garment trade. Holograms are also usually applied to the packaging Ð but we can now offer a solution in certain circumstances, where the hologram can be incorporated on a fabric label and sewn into a garment. Unlike other ñt aggersî, holograms can also incorporate a unique sequential code, which can be traced through the Nilorn web order system. This code can be disguised to make it appear random, making the hologram Ð al ready a very secure device - even more difficult to copy. The added bonus of having a unique serial code on every garment is that you can invite consumers to ñr egisterî their product online. Not only can this provide a marketing and a direct selling opportunity Ð but also you are now able to see which products are being registered in which countries Ð a means to patrol unlicensed importing. Bespoke holograms also convey a strong message to the consumer, regarding the brandÍ s serious approach to maintaining quality and brand integrity. This process can be further refined and targeted by the

addition of a ”tracker”, such as a matrix code (2-d bar code) on the garment care label Ð which can identify not only the garments origin Ð but, if scanned on despatch, also the organisation to which it was originally sold. Finally I come to DNA Ð the latest and possibly the most robust development in product authentication. Natural fibres such as cotton and wool already have a DNA signature that allows their origin and to be traced Ð often to within a few hectares! This is invaluable if you want to be sure that a garment is made from Pima Cotton Ð or that the cloth in your suit was worsted in Yorkshire (yes – we are actually doing this)! Artificial “taggers” can also be created from organic DNA, to give a specific signature to your brand – your own brand DNA, if you will! This tagger is undetectable other than by a forensic test, which is carried out under laboratory conditions. The European test centre is at the Textile Centre in Huddersfield, UK. However, as forensic proof of the authenticity or otherwise of your product, it is acceptable as evidence, in a court of law. These taggants are currently being used on banknotes in UK ATM’s; the DNA signature is point and date specific and therefore any cash recovered at a later date can be traced back to the actual robbery.

I donÍ t think that this is something that will be widely deployed to prevent counterfeiting in the fashion industry, except for luxury brands and others, who are genuinely serious about prosecuting those involved in the criminal activity of counterfeiting. However, if you warrant the performance of a fabric or fabric treatment – such as fireproofing – then DNA is the solution for you. Counterfeit products that fail to live up to your warranted performance standards, will be subject to claims from individuals and organisations who believe that they have the genuine article. These are easily refuted if you can provide the positive evidence that the merchandise is counterfeit; otherwise you face a long and costly legal wrangle, with no guarantee of the outcome. In summary; to be able to offer a remedy - we must first understand the problem, or at least the clientÍ s perception of what that problem might be. There is no “one size fits all” solution – but Nilorn has a wide range of options to cover most eventualities. More importantly, we also have the means and the experience to implement controls in the supply chain that will underpin an effective campaign against the counterfeit criminals. 39

ANTI-COUNTERFEIT

FOCUS

Words, letters and fonts are close to our heart.

Let wise words and beautiful letter shapes adorn your home or office. Here are some of our current favourites.

1. PRINT BY YLVA SKARP, www.ylvaskarp.se. 2. PILLOW, www.hm.se. 3. HELVETICA SCREENPRINT. Inspired by one

of the original Stempel promotional posters for Helvetica as seen on Mad Men. 4. STENCIL PAINTED PLYWOOD by In Lust and Trust. www.inlustandtrust.se. 5. PRINT BY THERESE SENNERHOLT, www. theresesennerholt.se. 6. POSTER / WALLPAPER by House Doctor, www.housedoctor.dk. 7. SILK-SCREEN PRINTED PLYWOOD Designed by Alexander Girard, manufactured by Columbia Forest Productions. www.scp.co.uk. 8. PILLOW, www.hm.se. 9. HAND PRINTED POSTERS, House Industries, www.houseind.com.

10. PRINT BY THERESE SENNERHOLT,

www.theresesennerholt.se. 11. PRINT by dazeychic, www.etsy.com. 12. HAND-PULLED SCREENPRINT by Nick Schmitz, www.supermarkethq.com. 13. ECO fRIENDLY PRINT by Even Andy, www.etsy.com.

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FOCUS

Words, letters and fonts are close to our heart.

Let wise words and beautiful letter shapes adorn your home or office. Here are some of our current favourites.

1. PRINT BY YLVA SKARP, www.ylvaskarp.se. 2. PILLOW, www.hm.se. 3. HELVETICA SCREENPRINT. Inspired by one

10. PRINT BY THERESE SENNERHOLT,

www.theresesennerholt.se. 11. PRINT by dazeychic, www.etsy.com. 12. HAND-PULLED SCREENPRINT by Nick Schmitz, www.supermarkethq.com. 13. ECO fRIENDLY PRINT by Even Andy, www.etsy.com.

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WE LIKE...

1. R6 GYRO BAG, www.sixeightsevensix.com. 2. STUTTERHEIM RAINCOAT, The Classic Swedish Raincoat, www.stutterheim.se. 3. REUNION VASE 9.5,

Pieke Bergmans for Rosenthal Porcelain, www.thefutureperfect.com. 4. fRANK POUffE IN ZIG ZAG, By Donna Wilson for SCP, www.scp.co.uk/. 5. SHOE ABSTRACT, www.unitednude.com. 6. DZN_fOREST, Spoon by Nendo, www.nendo.jp. 7. ILVA, Pendant in Black, www.ilva.dk/. 8. BIRD CLIP, Fun black bird large paperclips, www.realshopping.com.au. 9. KORNEGAY DESIGN Half round architectural precast concrete with walnut texture face patterns, www.kornegaydesign.com. 42

Bruno says: step into the sun and show your true colours BRUNO ANTOGNINI

WE LIKE...

1. R6 GYRO BAG, www.sixeightsevensix.com. 2. STUTTERHEIM RAINCOAT, The Classic Swedish Raincoat, www.stutterheim.se. 3. REUNION VASE 9.5,

Bruno says: step into the sun and show your true colours BRUNO ANTOGNINI