BRANDING & design (Fashion magazine)

A

P U B L I C A T I O N

F R O M

N I L O R N

W O R L D W I D E

N o .

2

Ridiďż˝ With Style ALSO: Brass With Class / Patricia Urquiola / Kidimo / Product Development / We Like...

/

2 0 1 2

18

32

36

8

14

21

COVER ILLUSTRATION: Eva Hjelte / Woo Agentur. PAPER: Cover: Rives Design 250 gsm. Body: Scandia 2000 White 170 gsm. Printed at Responstryck AB, Bor책s, Sweden.

�ontent� #2 / 2012 4 Welcome

21 Product Development

6 Branding is Dead – Long Live Branding

32 Focus: Brass With Class

We present our latest collection.

The warm and timeless brass is one of the trendiest metals at the moment.

Chronicle by Stephanie Duval.

8 Patricia Urquiola

34 We Like...

One of the biggest names in furniture design today.

News, trends and inspiration from the world of design.

12 Design Classic

36 Travel: Wythe Hotel

Converse All Star.

A former textile factory has been transformed into a unique hotel in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NYC.

14 Riding With Style The bike is trendier than ever.

38 Travel: Hamburg

18 Word Up

The places you can't miss when in Hamburg.

Kidimo gives a new life to shop signs.

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry.

Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions.

Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of over SEK 300 m. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India and Turkey. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, India, Bangladesh, Tunisia, Romania and China. www.nilorn.com

3

WELCOME HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

Dear Reader, We are delighted to publish the 2nd edition of our

Branding and Design magazine for 2012.

After a turbulent year, thanks to unstable financial markets in many European countries, is it more challenging then ever "out there ".

Many players are under increasing pressure, and we are facing a more competitive market. You have to be able to navigate in murky waters to survive.

Brand owners need to be more creative and smarter to win consumers’ attention. They must make themselves more visible, and put greater effort into identification if they are to stand out as unique.

To create something different and special, you need to start with the history of the brand - what do you want to communicate, and how can you confirm that intelligent and knowledgeable consumers have the correct perception of your brand?

Be prepared to think in the long term and integrate trends such as sustainability, retro and vintage. Everything that can make the consumer feel safe should be used. Remember to be politically correct at all times. Above all, your thinking and approach must be positive.

Nilorn has more than half a century of experience in creating and supporting brands, ensuring that they are more visible and successful. We can do the same for you, and we see branding as a partnership between us – we aim to be your first choice in branding.

In this edition, we focus on a number of examples of successful branding in different business areas, and examine a range of ideas on what branding really is. I am fascinated by the sheer amount of creativity, competence and passion it takes to really prosper.

We also present a short summary of some of the new branding concepts developed by Nilorn’s Design Team to show the wide range of possibilities and trends within the "world of branding".

I can strongly recommend that you read the stimulating articles about cycles from an "urban lifestyle" and designer point of view, as well as the article by Stephanie Duval on branding.

We are sure you will have an enjoyable and inspiring time with our new magazine!

subsidiarIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 00 Fax +46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24, CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel. +41 62 855 27 50 Fax +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Millennium Castle,12th fl.

House 47, Road 27 Block A, Banani Dhaka -1213 BANGLADESH Tel. +88 02 8835912 Fax +8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel. +32 9 210 40 90 Fax +32 9 252 55 73 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Vestergade 48, 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel. +45 70 23 16 23 Fax +45 66 13 48 31 info@dk.nilorn.com

NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel. +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI Cheng Jia Qiao Rd. 238 CN-201103 Shanghai CHINA Tel. +86-21-55348268 Fax +86-21-64019750 info@sh.nilorn.com NILORN TURKEY Nilorn Turkey Mimar Sinan Cad. Ünverdi Sok. No:50.

Kat:3. 34540 Günesli Istanbul TURKEY Tel. +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx).

Fax +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com

NILORN UK LTD Acre Park Dalton Lane, Keighley West Yorkshire BD21 4JH UNITED KINGDOM Tel. +44 1535 673 500 Fax +44 1535 673 519 NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square info@uk.nilorn.com 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong NILORN UK LTD Kowloon Office No 259 HONG KONG Berkeley Square House Tel. +852 2 371 2218 Berkeley Square Fax +852 2 371 2629 London info@hk.nilorn.com W1J 6BD UNITED KINGDOM NILORN GERMANY GMBH Tel. +44 207 887 7610 Itterpark 7 info@uk.nilorn.com 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax +49 2103 908 16 - 990 info@de.nilorn.com

Claes af Wetterstedt CEO

4

CHRONICLE

In a world saturated with brands, sometimes it’s hard to see anything beyond the one-upmanship of creative or desperate attempts to attract our attention, in the best and worst case scenarios. So it’s pretty ironic then how very few brands still succeed in doing so.

Long live brandi�

STEPHANIE DUVAL is editor-in-chief of Belgian fashion trade magazines Label and Pure, which analyze new business ideas and current trends in the fashion industry.

study by leading social media specialist InSites Consulting revealed that the average consumer is linked to a measly 11 brands online, and they only actively engage with about 5 of them.

So for any brand that is not one of the big boys, it is getting increasingly difficult to catch our eye, let alone build a relationship with us. Furthermore, a study last year by Havas Media found that most people would not even care if 70% of brands ceased to exist altogether. According to their research, brands only succeed in creating a meaningful relationship with their consumers if they make a significant contribution to the consumers’ wellbeing.

In established economies such as Europe and the United States, brands no longer seem to improve the quality of life of their consumers as they do in emerging economies by providing them with basic needs.

In the West, lifestyles are changing in other ways, and brands are not keeping up with the new needs of these particular consumers. Most of us want to live a better life, and to feel good about ourselves and our spending by knowing that we’re doing the right thing. We’re not opposed to brands earning money, but we want to know for sure that at least some of that money is being spent on making a better, more interesting world.

We have arrived in a post-materialist society, in which consumers no longer look to brands just for 6

products. Green philosophies, local initiatives and charitable goals have to be a part of any company’s DNA, though consumers aren’t expecting brands to change the world overnight. They want them to be honest about what they can or can’t do at this time, and about what they are striving to accomplish in the future. Whether that is supporting the arts, protecting nature or growing a small family business – it has to be about something more than cold, hard cash. The problem, however, is that "many of the aspirational stories that brands try to communicate are not really true, and what we want is more authenticity," says Sara de Dios, Global Head of Meaningful Brands at Havas Media.

Authenticity has been a buzzword for so long now, it is starting to sound a little tired. And the same goes for the way in which brands are making the term relevant to themselves. Storytelling and ‘being authentic’ have been cheapened to empty marketing techniques. Especially in the world of design and fashion, anyone with an idea for a business or product who has read the right blogs is launching brands that tick off all the items on the list for success. Hipster logo with retro typography? Check. Slogan that mentions the birth year of the company, even if that was only two years ago? Check. Interesting and quirky story to tell about the creators? Check.

Besides actually boring potential customers, in some cases these brands are also alienating them, as

CHRONICLE BELOW: An Austrian daredevil leapt into the stratosphere from a balloon hovering near the edge of space 38 km above Earth breaking as many as three world records including the highest skydive ever, project sponsors Redbull said.

ABOVE: T-shirt packaging. Johnny Cupcakes, Inc. is a clothing brand founded in 2001 by Johnny Earle. The clothing line uses cupcakes as the prominent design motif of its merchandise. The Johnny Cupcakes line includes t-shirts, shorts, sweaters, jewellery, undergarments, and pins. All Johnny Cupcakes retail shops are furnished extensively according to a bakery theme.

consumers are getting increasingly savvy and consequently weary of companies whose stories don’t ring true. They may be seduced to buy a product, but they are not buying into the brand. Only when a brand is honest with the consumer – and, why not, shows a little humour in doing so – will it be able to forge a true connection. The role of Facebook is far from played out, but brands will have to learn how to truly become their fans’ friend, instead of collecting as many likes as possible, if social media strategies on the platform are to have any real value.

Jamie Monberg, of the Hornall Anderson Brand Experience Design agency, believes we have arrived in a post-positioning era: telling consumers your brand is ‘something’ is far less effective than actually showing them. Create an experience for consumers to understand what your brand is all about, and they become not only believers but active advocates and ambassadors. Of course branded events such as Red Bull’s recent Stratos jump from space by Felix Baumgartner are the ideal way of communicating the core values of a brand – in the case of Red bull: adrenaline, energy and adventure.

But it doesn’t always have to be grand gestures like this. Sometimes, jokes in the copywriting on a packaging can make you feel included in an insiders’ community, or the feel of the materials envelopes you in the brand’s universe. When you walk into a store, the music, smells and general atmosphere get you into a

Sometimes, jokes in the copywriting on a packaging can make you feel included in an insiders’ community, or the feel of the materials envelopes you in the brand’s universe. STEPHANIE DUVAL certain state of mind, and when you watch a beautifully made or funny video on YouTube, it lifts your spirits or inspires you to be creative or active yourself.

More information about the studies mentioned in this article:

In many different ways, it feels like all the branding paradigms of the past decade are being challenged by today’s society and rapid technological evolution.

Trying to figure out the secret key to success is proving to be hard, if not impossible, and in any case the worst thing to do right now is to cling to one specific formula. I don’t believe there is one magic ingredient in this particular sauce, but no one ever died of too much creativity. It will take a lot of imagination to predict the new ways in which brands can stand out, connect with people and make a lasting impression.

Branding as we know it may be dead, but is surely doesn’t mean the end of branding. ● 7

Study by InSites Consulting: “Social Media around the World 2012”, www.insitesconsulting.com.

Study by Havas Media: “Meaningful Brands”, www.havasmedia.com.

PORTRAIT: PATRICIA URQUIOLA

In the early 2000s few people knew who she was, but today she can pick and choose her commissions.

With energy, creativity and thorough knowledge she creates the classics of tomorrow.

PHOTO: Christine Olsson / SCANPIX

8

PORTRAIT: PATRICIA URQUIOLA WORDS: Henrik Lindén

1

3 2

P

atricia Urquiola grew up in Oviedo in Spain and studied architecture before moving to the Politecnico di Milano, where she studied with Achille Castiglioni as her mentor.

After a slowly accelerating career based on extensive studies in architecture and design, Patricia has become one of the brightest stars in the design firmament of today. During a long period of her professional career she was satisfied working for major designers such as Achille Castiglioni, Vico Magistretti and Maddalena De Padova. It was not until her time with Piero Lissoni that she found a way into the large industrial design companies. At a time when other designers were banging on the doors of these desirable clients, it was they who contacted her. This represented a turning point and in 2001, at the age of 40, Urquiola gave up her comfortable existence as an employee and set up her own studio in Milan.

With her creativity, unique sense of pattern, shape and materials, combined with deep knowledge of manufacturing processes and craftsmanship, she has gained a strong position in an otherwise maledominated world. It is easy to say that her sensitivity and sensual design styling are explained by the fact

that she is a woman. But she herself says that these characteristics are part of your personality and that there are male designers who are far more feminine in their thinking. She prefers not to see herself as a spokeswoman for female designers.

Urquiola is happiest and works best when she is juggling several things at the same time. Many of her projects mature over several years, and small and large projects run in parallel. On one and the same day her tasks may include architecture, furniture design and refining details such as door handles.

She is remarkably passionate in the way she works, and the aim of her projects is to create tools in order to live and for consumers to benefit from the product in their lives.

Urquiola has received a number of international awards for her work. ADI Design Index, the International Design Yearbook, the IMM Cologne Award, Good Design Awards from the Chicago Athenaeum, the Red Dot Award and the Elle Decoration International Awards are some examples. In addition, some of her products have found a place in the permanent exhibition at the New York Museum of Modern Art. Clients: De Padova, Moroso, Agape, B&B, Alessi, Driade, Foscarini, Kartell, Flos, Molteni, etc.

9

1. Caboche lamp, Patricia Urquiola and Eliana Gerotto for Foscarini 2005.

2. Tufty-Time Sofa Patricia Urquiola for B&B Italia 2005.

3. Husk by Patricia Urquiola for B&B Italia.

»On one and the same day her tasks may include architecture, furniture design and refining details such as door handles.«

PORTRAIT: PATRICIA URQUIOLA

1. The Husk armchair is made of recycled plastic and soft cushions.

2. Klara tables for Moroso.

3. Fjord Armchair by Patricia Urquiola, for Moroso 2002.

Fjord is inspired by Arne Jacobsen's classic "egg chair".

4. Portrait of Patricia Urquiola.

5. M.a.s.s.a.s is the new collection by Patricia Urquiola for Moroso, a modular sofa system with the addition of a standard armchair, small armchair and small table. The name is an abbreviation of Moroso, Asymmetric, Sofa, System, Adorably, Stitched.

1

2

3

4

5

5

5

10

Since 1981 DENMARK

DESIGN CLASSIC

WORDS: Henrik Lindén ILLUSTRATION: Rikard Häll

�onverse All Star Converse All Star is one of the world's strongest brands.

Nearly a billion pairs of "Chucks" have been sold since 1917.

The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star shoe model is a fashion and culture phenomenon that has gained iconic status and made a great impact in the media, film, television and sport.

It is said that 60% of all Americans have at some time owned at least one pair. The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star model is worn by men, women, children, rich, poor, athletes, musicians and not least celebrities.

The simple yet brilliant design of the shores has its roots in the Art Deco style and was very popular in the United States and Europe during the in-

ter-war period. Timeless and modern all at once, hard-wearing and with intricate geometric styling. The appearance of the shoes has not changed much over the years. After the Second World War the shoes were given the distinctive monochrome design with white laces, sides and toecap, in contrast with the canvas top, which until the late forties was only available in black.

Until the sixties, Converse All Star was marketed as the leading model for basketball players. It was the basketball star, coach and clinician Charles "Chuck" Taylor who early on took a liking to this model – he was so impressed by the shoes' potential that he started working for the Converse Company.

He contributed significant adjustments and improvements to the design of the shoes. He then started travelling around marketing the

12

DESIGN:

Charles Taylor 1923

shoes. With his background and knowledge combined with smart marketing tricks, he soon boosted sales, which until that time had been sluggish. His tireless work on marketing the shoe model led to Converse honouring Charles by putting his signature on the ankle mark in 1932. The All Star basketball shoe was born.

In 1969 Taylor was inducted into the Basketball Hall of Fame, but later the same year he died following a heart attack. At this time brands such as Nike, Adidas and Reebok were starting to challenge the Converse Company's dominance in the sport of basketball. One basketball team after another abandoned its Chucks in favour of shoes with technical innovations and better performance. The Chuck Taylor All Star lost its status as a sports shoe, and since the seventies it has been better known as a leisure and lifestyle shoe in hundreds of colours and patterns, in high-cut, low-cut and knee-length models. Converse occasionally releases special versions in a limited edition, and has also cooperated with outside designers such as John Varvatos and Marimekko.

The Converse company has been owned by Nike since 2003.

13

RIDING WITH STYLE

14

RIDING WITH STYLE WORDS: Henrik LindĂŠn

Pared-down design that does not stand out or pink tyres and yellow handlebars. Whatever it looks like, the bicycle is an important part of an urban lifestyle. We take a look at the two-wheeler that's hotter than ever.

T

he significance of the bicycle has varied over the years: status symbol, equipment for sport and exercise and a way of getting to and from work.

Nowadays in-demand design object can be added to the list. It's nothing new to large consumers of interior design magazines and home ads for a bicycle to be a hot accessory in the hallway too The trick employed by stylists and estate agents to emphasise a young urban lifestyle is quite simply to place a bicycle in the apartment. Increased interest in and commitment to a healthier lifestyle and climate and environmental issues may also play a role in the popularity of the bicycle. Lower your emissions and burn some calories into the bargain.

Fixed gear

One of the reasons why cycling has become trendy is that bicycles with fixed hubs, known as a fixed-gear bikes, have made the step up from subculture to mass culture.

It was daredevil cycle messengers in New York in the early 2000s cruising through the traffic congestion without braking who really made the trend take off. As well as lacking a freewheel, the fixie is a strippeddown bicycle in its very simplest form, preferably without brakes, if you ask orthodox fixie riders. Until a few years ago you had to assemble your own fixie, but now the major manufacturers have also opened their eyes to the fixie and both the range on offer and pricing levels have improved. Bicycles 15

have always been designed on the basis of the human body. In the present-day sports market there are high-tech bikes with carbon fibre frames, disc brakes and ultra-light road cycles, but the feeling of becoming one with your bike is said to only be achieved on a fixie.

Customised design

Just as shoe and bag manufacturers have already discovered, there is great interest and need among consumers to put their own stamp on the product. You can more or less design your own trainers on the websites of the major brands, or in some cases directly in the store. The bicycle industry has taken up the idea, and it is becoming more

RIDING WITH STYLE

The Porteur bicycle was born in the post World War II era, especially designed to transport cargo on a platform rack attached to the fork. The new generation of Porteurs are lighter, easier, safer and more stylish. www.porteur.cc

1. Velorbis Short John delivery bike. www.velorbis.com 2. Tech Spec, Herr 2012. www.bikeid.se 3. Basic Dam Colour from Skeppshult. www.skeppshult.se 4. Single Speed Black from Tokyobike. www.tokyobike.co.uk

2

3

1

4

16

RIDING WITH STYLE

Photo: Bosse Kinnås

The Bike by Normann Copenhagen is comfortable to ride,

Four iconic buildings in Stockholm have inspired the

thanks to its single-speed gearbox and is ideal for city use.

colours of the bikes from Abici Italia. Serie Stoccolma

Each of the 50 Normann Copenhagen Bikes has been hand

was designed by Note Design Studio for Abici.

built by professional cycle builders.

»One in five people today cycle to work, and for many of them the appearance of their bike is just as important as what clothes they are wearing or the interior design they have at home in their apartments.« ANDERS DAHLBERG, BikeID

and more common to see two-wheelers on the streets that cause you to turn your head. Although most people choose an uncluttered design, it always possible to opt for a green chain or red wheels in order to stand out a little.

Who is the typical customer who wants to influence the appearance of his or her bike? According to Anders Dahlberg from the cycle store BikelD, customers range in age from 13 to 65.

What everyone who buys a bike from BikelD has in common is that that they have a quite definite idea of what they think is neat. Dahlberg continues: – I think we have only seen the start of a trend in bikes where we want to decide more for ourselves. Bikes have to be more personal, but without tampering with functionality. One in five people today cycle to work, and for many of them the appearance of their bike is just as important as what clothes they are wearing or the interior design they have at home in their apartments.

COOPERATIONS

In line with the increasing popularity of cycling, more and more bicycle models in limited editions have seen the light of day and quickly found new owners. Bicycle manufacturers have invited star designers, fashion crea17

tors, interior designers and artists to cooperate. Paul Smith, Acne, J. Lindeberg and Hermés are among those who have made sure that cyclists really can travel in style. Although it might appear paradoxical, many car manufacturers such as Aston Martin, BMW and Mercedes have also developed their own bicycle models.

In other cases design companies have established contact with the bicycle factory to create a model that reflects the soul of the company. This was the case when the design and lifestyle company Normann Copenhagen asked Anne Lehman to design its bikes. The project resulted in a classic understated men's model with a soft semi-matt finish and with some surprising details such as green handlebars, saddle and chain. It is intended for a guy with a rich social life who wants to move around the city's streets in an uncomplicated way.

If you're keen to buy a rarity from these limited editions, the price varies from a few hundred euros to price brackets comparable to those of cars.

With the new role of the bicycle as a design and status object, a successful result means good PR and advertising for both parties. ●

SHOPPING: KIDIMO

�ord Up Kidimo's business concept is to give used signs new life.

Old shop signs made of metal, wood and bakelite are collected and reborn as unique wall decorations.

WORDS: Henrik LindĂŠn PHOTO: Frederic Lucano / Kidimo

18

SHOPPING: KIDIMO

A

round 2000 letters in various materials, sizes and colours and with a wide range of fonts are crammed together in Kidimo's stockroom. Kidimo can also look for words and letters for your home or as a unique gift to order.

Nothing is newly manufactured, which means you get a unique vintage interior design object, and the stock is constantly replenished. Poetic, provocative and playful words are formed and end up in apartments, lofts and houses, but also in restaurants, bars, shops, hotels and offices.

A passion for industrial vintage design and almost obsessive collecting in junk shops caused the founder of Kidimo, Nicolas Flachot, to abandon his career as a successful television producer. It all started

when Flachot found three letters that spelt his daughter's name – Lou – at a local flea market. In the spring of 2009 Flachot and his friend Thierry Bruere launched their concept online. They were soon attracting buyers from all corners of the globe. Kidimo now meets the strong demand from new premises in Paris. The business has room to expand in the heart of the Sentier district, in an old clothes factory.

Kidimo is launching a completely new product in the autumn of 2012. During a trip to New York, an idea came to Flachot when he saw the registration plates of cars.

Old registration plates are given a new lease of life when the letters are punched out and magnetised. The size of the letters is standardised, and customers can create 19

their own words with a user-friendly app.

American letters will be sold exclusively in the very popular interior design store Merci in Paris.

The Kidimo LOFT Open from Monday to Friday, 10 am to 7 pm. By Appointment.

227 rue Saint Denis 75002, Paris www.kidimo.com Merci Open from Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 7 pm.

111 Bd Beaumarchais, Paris www.merci-merci.com

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

�ilorn Product Developmen� Nilorn’s internal product development is an important part of its business. We work continuously to refine design solutions and find new materials and production techniques.

21

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

01.

CALLISTO & AMPELIO Callisto & Ampelio is a premium and luxury clothing brand in the denim segment. They focus on customers who value uniqueness and quality The colours and design 足features are trendy and modern, but still flirt with the old and venerable. Their 足logotype represents luxury and hand-made craftsmanship.

INSPIRATION

The inspiration comes from the industrial - the hard and tough feel - metal, screws and cable ties take on another meaning.

22

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

02.

EFFORT Effort is an extreme sports brand for high performing individuals with the drive to compete against themselves and others. They regard training as a life style and only expect the best from their functional sports clothing. In addition, they are interested in new functions in sports clothing, which could further improve their performance.

INSPIRATION

The design is inspired by the colourful neon trend and modern, light, supple materials with aero-dynamic functionality. These combine to make a strong athletic impression which is reflected by the choice of material and styling in the entire product range.

23

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

»Durable twill labels that will surpass the life of the ever repairable garment they adorn.«

03.

01.

SMYTHE´S Born from the moorlands of Yorkshire, Smythe’s blends timeless country styling with current advancements in technical sportswear. Classically r­ugged waxed cottons paired with breathable quilted linings keep the rural sportsman dry, warm and comfortable on a crisp early morning shoot or a full day on the riverbanks in ever changeable weather.

INSPIRATION

Smythe’s practical nature insists on chunky, easy to grab metal trims for cold/gloved fingers along with weatherproof external badges and thick, ­durable twill labels that will surpass the life of the ever repairable garment they adorn.

24

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

04.

WONDROUS Wondrous is a company that focuses on producing quality garments for women in ages 15-20.

An innovative, international design, that produces a wide range of jeans collections. Wondrous’ ­style is distinctive and innovative. They dare to take chances, and has made its own niche on the fashion scene.

A personal and open-minded ­design style, for women who dare to follow their own path in life, and want to express their individuality through their dress.

The Wondrous girl spends much time in her ­favorite coffee shop. In the middle of the block where the independent and eclectic shops are located next door to vintage shops and trendy restaurants. The café is decorated with rustic wooden tables, comfortable sofas and puffs covered with felt, lamps with industrial influences, repainted in bright signal colors and menus with bold typography. Modern but cozy – ”A home away from home”.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

»sharp lines, contrasts and a slightly sooty feeling«

05.

ETC. The etc customer hang out in cafés, or are equally happy with friends like themselves, but preferably with the smartphone close by. The phone is where everything happens.

Their homes contain retro furniture mixed with expensive classics the watchword is quality. Just as in the choice of clothes, but there should preferably be a twist to an otherwise classic garment. A jacket with a different cut, an extra seam or an asymmetric shape. This is a collection of tailored garments in limited edition, to preserve the exclusiveness.

INSPIRATION

The city is the customer’s field. This is where we find sharp lines, contrasts and a slightly sooty feeling. Interior design is a strong source of ideas, plus architecture with its hard materials such as concrete, metals and glass. What is more unexpected is everyday tasks like working, cycling and shopping, but it is in everyday life that happens round us all the time, that the best ideas are born.

26

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

27

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

28

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

The natural range of colours is found in ­spices, plants and the strong turquoise sky on a ­ sunny day.

MAYA The Maya range is simple, usable clothes that can be mixed and matched. Colourful clothes in natural materials, match coarse linen with shiny, supple silk, adding layer after layer, combining different colours and patterns. You should be happy wearing these clothes, and possibly make others happy with a colourful mix that lifts a slightly dull, grey weekday.

Clothes should be used and worn because they are loved and comfortable, at the same time as they are smart and fashionable.

on present day textiles, after a span of thousands of years. The natural range of colours is found in ­spices, plants and the strong turquoise sky on ­a sunny day.

06.

INSPIRATION

South America and the Maya Empire, earth ­colours with graphic patterns and shapes that again appear

29

30

porsche design fashion

Ă&#x;1000 www.porsche-design.com

FOCUS: BRASS

1

2

1. Void Light Brass by Tom Dixon 2. Japanese Brass Bicycle Bell. A beautiful piece of mechanical art. It sounds pretty, and the note is held for a long time. www.manufactum.com 3. Glass and brass cabinet, House Doctor.

4. The VOLA HV1 was designed in 1968,

by Arne Jacobsen. Now available in a brass finish. www.vola.com

3

4

�rass With Clas� Warm and timeless brass adds a touch of glamour to your home.

Brass objects also work perfectly in combination with soft, matt surfaces and unpainted wood.

By Henrik Lindén

32

FOCUS: BRASS

6

5. Best Lite Table Lamp, new brass edition. www.gubi.dk. 6. Brass city bike by designer Bart van Heesch. www.vanheeschdesign.com 7. Kin is a tea light range with five different shapes designed by Claesson Koivisto Rune 8. The Japanese manufacturer Pleiades designed Trumstand. This acoustic amplifier is made out of gold-plated brass. Apparently, this amplifies the bass of the music being played. Just set your iPhone into the rubberized dock to form a tight seal, and you’re all set. 9. Scissors, House Doctor. 10. Belle is a jewellery box and ring holder designed by Claesson Koivisto Rune. www.skultuna.com

5

7

10

9

8

33

WE LIKE...

Versatile Table Settings Iittala’s new Sarjaton collection consists of 26 carefully-selected products. The word “sarjaton” means “no series”. It is inspired by what it means to be Finnish and the unhurried lifestyle we all appreciate. This attractive, tactile and, above all, versatile collection features glass, ceramics, ash wood and textiles. Earthy colours, patterns and reliefs on both glossy and semi-glossy surfaces, which look equally great on an elegant white linen table cloth as they do against a modern, colourful background. By changing the elements of the collection, you can smoothly and easily change the atmosphere to suit the occasion. www.iittala.fi

Stick'em up StickyGram is a personalised printing service that turns your Instagram images into lovely little magnets. You create your pack online and have them delivered to your door. Each StickyGram is 50mm x 50mm. They come in packs of 9. Stick them on your fridge, locker or any magnet-friendly surface you can find.

Plan Your Week

Purify your life

Keep track of your week.

With this great-looking wall planner from House Doctor, you can use a non-permanent marker pen to write straight on the glass. www.housedoctor.dk

For centuries, the Japanese have produced active, handcrafted charcoal commonly known as “White Charcoal”. This material has long been cherished for its unique ability to purify materials naturally by attracting, adsorbing and encapsulating harmful substances on its surface.

With BINCHO, the Danish company Sort of Coal aims to inspire people to drink local tap-water, helping to reduce the environmental impact of the sometimes needless consumption of bottled and shipped water. www.sortofcoal.com

Dressy Sneakers This autumn, adidas originals gives one of the brand’s best-selling models, the Top Ten Sleek, a dressy twist. Done up in a mix of materials ranging from leather to patent, the monochromatic Brogue Pack gives the classic kicks a punch of class with brogue perforation details on the toe box and ankles. The Brogue Pack is currently available at select adidas Originals retailers.

34

WE LIKE...

Playful stamps Internationally-renowned fashion designer and illustrator, Lovisa Burfitt, has been involved in a number of exciting partnerships, including with the H&M chain. Now it’s the turn of the Swedish postal service.

Lovisa Burfitt has designed both stamps and stationary.

Wooden Mushrooms These decorative mushrooms by Danish designer Trine Find look good in any home.

Trine takes her inspiration from nature and has adopted a ”keep it simple” approach.

Funghi mushrooms come in two types of wood; soaped beech or smoked oak.

Available in the following sizes: 90-100 mm, 150 mm and 200 mm. www.applicata.dk

Cool Denim FAB28 denim, the first fridge to be entirely covered in denim, is the result of a creative collaboration between Smeg and Italia Independent. A successful combination of retro styling and the latest technology.

It goes without saying that the denim has to be very special to stand up to domestic use. The fabric, itself a mix of tradition and innovation, is treated with PLASMA, a nano-technology, which protects the surface of the fridge from splashes of water, oil, milk and fruit juices.

The FAB28 denim, made in a limited number of just 500 pieces, had its world premiere at the Salone del Mobile in Milan. Additionally, this extraordinary example of tailored technology can be admired at the Smeg showroom in Corso Monforte 30 in Milan.

35

REBORN FRENCH CLASSIC The latest from Lampe Gras! A French classic is enjoying a new lease of life. Designed by BernardAlbin Gras in1921, primarily for public spaces, it soon became a popular feature in French homes as well.

Production ended in 1940, but all the drawings have now been found and the lamps are once again being made by hand in the same factory in France. The model illustrated is Wall lamp 213 from Lampe Gras, which can be adjusted for height and angle. www.lampegras.fr

TRAVEL: NEW YORK

�ythe Hote� A former textile factory has been transformed into a unique hotel in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NYC. Located in the heart of Brooklyn, the

Wythe Hotel is an 8-storey hotel on the Williamsburg waterfront.

Built in 1901, this former cooperage has been meticulously converted into a 72-room hotel offering a level of service and amenities never before seen in the borough, while the building’s industrial character – including its concave corner entrance, original pine beams, masonry, arched windows and cast-iron columns – has been beautifully preserved. Like its surrounding neighbourhood, the Wythe Hotel melds the historical with the modern, creating something entirely unique and authentic.

Atop the original 5-storey structure, sits a new 3-storey glass and aluminium addition, that references the hotel’s existing factory windows while dramatically pulling the building into the present. Throughout the hotel, the 72 guest rooms feature

13’ high original timber ceilings, oversized windows, radiant heat concrete floors, seasonally sourced mini-bar content, custom amenities and works by local artists. Many of the rooms boast floor-to-ceiling views of the Manhattan skyline and the East River.

Renowned Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow, of Marlow & Sons, Diner, and Roman’s, manages the hotel’s extensive food and beverage programme. Venues include Reynard - a ground floor restaurant and bar with a wood-fired oven and grill, courtyard seating, and a daily menu featuring fresh American fare and seasonal cocktails, and Ides - a 6th floor bar and terrace with stunning views over Manhattan and Brooklyn. There is a choice of event spaces as well, including a main event hall, a private dining room, large guest lofts and a 60-seat screening room and bar. The Wythe Hotel is located in Brooklyn’s most vibrant 36

neighbourhood, with Williamsburg’s best galleries, boutiques, bars, restaurants and concert halls within walking distance. It is one subway stop from Manhattan, and minutes from the central hub of Union Square.

Address: 80 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11211 Website: www.wythehotel.com Phone: 718.460.8000 (Main) Opening date: May 2012 Rates: $179-$495

FEATURES & AMENITIES 8 stories 72 guest rooms 4 Lofts - 2 with private roof deck 2 band rooms - one with 4 beds and one with 6 beds 8 bunk rooms - all include 2 beds Fitness room

37

TRAVEL: HAMBURG

�amburg's Hidden Pearl�

By Damien Lynch

Hamburg might not be the largest city in Germany, but it is certainly the wealthiest. And while Berlin and Munich typically get more attention, Hamburg is a sparkling and lively port town with a character all of its own.

h

Hamburg is Germany’s second largest city, with a population of over 1.8 million, and the Greater Hamburg Metropolitan Region has a population of over four million. It is the country’s biggest port and the second busiest in Europe. Hamburg has more bridges inside its city limits than any other city in the world and more canals than Amsterdam and Venice combined. In the inner-city Hanse-Viertel arcade, and especially along Neuer Wall, you can will find international designer brands such as Gucci and Louis

Vuitton to name a few, and you can empty your wallet in the blink of an eye!

Let’s say you are visiting Hamburg to shop for designer clothes but don’t want your bank account looking anorexic! I suggest you visit Secondella, Hamburg’s oldest and best second-hand store, located in the Hohe Bleichen, a stone’s throw away from Neuer Wall. The massive space is filled with everything a fashionista’s heart could desire. The staff make you feel welcome, and in no time flat they will be taking clothes from the rails, that fit you perfectly, without even having to measure you! At Secondella you almost never leave empty handed, whether it’s only a pair of Paul Smith socks you need, a Hermes bag or the perfect Alexander McQueen dress for that special occasion.

But we are not going to talk about the typical tourist attractions of this cosmopolitan city. Because this guide is all about one of the cities ”hidden Pearls” beginning only one street behind the infamous Reeperbahn, the red light district of St Pauli and spreading to both Sternschanze and the Karolinen-viertel districts.

Until about 20 years ago, these were quite a poor part of the city, where the bulk of residents were Turkish, Spanish and Portuguese workers. In fact, many of the vegetable shops, cafés and restaurants are still run 38

»Sternschanze is the “IN” place to see and be seen in Hamburg, no matter whether it’s Monday afternoon or late Saturday night. « my foreigners, giving the area a wonderful Mediterranean flare even in the cold winter months. Over the last 15 years young creatives have also settled in the area mainly because of the low rent levels. Today, some of Hamburg’s leading graphic agencies, clothes designers and photographers... have helped turn this area into a pulsating, independent part of the city!

Sternschanze is the “IN” place to see and be seen in Hamburg, no matter whether it’s Monday afternoon or late Saturday night.

This place is always buzzing with Hanseaten (people from Hamburg) either shopping or chilling with friends. And in between you may find a few tourists who have

TRAVEL: HAMBURG

»You could easily spend the evening going from bar to bar and still have the feeling that you only saw half the bars!« found themselves pleasantly lost enjoying a cold Weissen beer. You should definitely start your experience from Schanzenstrasse, with its great cafes and Bistros to tickle just about anyone’s taste buds!

One of the oldest and still one of the best Bistros in the area is called ”Frank und Frei” a great place to take time for a snack and a beer. My tip: on warm summer days take your drink outside and watch the hustle and bustle of the people passing on the sidewalk - it’s also a great way to spot street trends.

Making your way through Susannen Strasse, in between more cafes and bars, you will find a mix of small shops selling clothes by young German designers at affordable prices, with wacky T-shirts, cool shoes and oddities of every kind. The clothes are more mainstream but still a great source of inspiration.

On Schulterblatt Strasse, you can choose from one of Sternschanze's “IN” bars and restaurants, which seem to take up the whole street, to chillax and rest your feet.

You could easily spend the evening going

young avant-garde design boutiques selling minimalist but modern clothes in line with the likes of Jil Sander.

There are numerous hotels within walking distance, such as the beautiful design Hotel “East” on Simon von Utrecht strasse. Even if you are not staying at this fantastic location it’s well worth the visit to its bar or restaurant! Or the trendy Mövenpeck Hotel, which was once a water tower in Sternschanzen Park.

Hamburg has so much to offer that it would be impossible to explain it all in this small guide. My advice is this; when visiting Sternschance allow yourself time to wonder down the small streets; you may also find yourself pleasantly lost among the area’s hidden charm! ●

from bar to bar and still have the feeling that you only saw half the bars! On summer evenings you may find that the bars on the Street are only half full. That’s probably because the other half have moved 50 or less meters to Sternschanze’s own Beach club “Strand Pauli”, with sand, deck chairs, and refreshing cocktails. The only thing missing is the sea, but hey, who cares this is St Pauli after all!

Next stop is Sternschanze’s little sister the “Karolinenviertel”, a much smaller neighbouring area but nonetheless interesting, especially on Markt Strasse. The street is full of graffiti, with a number of second-hand shops specialising in 50ies clothes and memorabilia, punk and rockabilly boutiques.

A must-see is the Herr von Eden boutique.

You can’t help but feel as if you landed in the twilight zone, or gone on a weird trip back in time, looking at all the retro clothes boutiques and kitsch shops.

We then land back in the near future with a small bang, because, living seemingly in perfect harmony in between some of these wild stores, there are a few of the area’s

3

2

4

1. Wacky T-shirts. 2. Mövenpick Hotel. 3. Strand Pauli Beach Club. 4. Scondella second hand clothes.

5. Out and about on Schulterblatt

1

5

5

39

www.ecorepel.ch

Clean and dry, naturally.

The new textile finish from Schoeller

water repellent

ecological

wash resistant

d

® Standar n g i s e lu bons • b r a c le o r o egradab om flu d r f o i e b e • r f • 100 ® Standard x e T • Oeko-

NILORN PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

42