Sea & Coastal Areas Adventure Life in the Archipelago Nature Adventure
Summer 2016
One of Sweden's largest summer magazines, about one of the world's most unique coastal areas
Timeless Roads Discovery on the Seabed CHOOSE THE MINOR ROADS THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE
BROUGHT ONE OF THE WORLD'S BEST UP TO THE SURFACE
Nature Reserves THE TEN BEST
YOU JUST MUST NOT MISS
Impossible Beverages HÖGA KUSTEN'S GREATEST INTERNATIONAL AMBASSADORS
Made in the High Coast THE CREATIVE ENTREPRENEURS
Climbers onVia Ferrata approach the summit of Skuleberget along the red route
2014
Experience the High Coast with M/F Ulvön and M/F Minerva
U
MF MINERVA
ARCHIPELAGO BY BOAT
KÖPMANHOLMEN – TRYSUNDA, STRÄNGÖARNA AND ULVÖN PHONE TO MF ULVÖN +46 (0)70-651 92 65 • TICKET OFFICE +46 (0)660-22 38 55 • WWW.ORNSKOLDSVIKSHAMN.SE
TIME TABLE FOR THE SUMMER, DAILY TOURS, June 23 - August 21, 2016 M/F MINERVA Departures from Ulvöhamn Ulvöhamn Fjären Strängöarna Trysunda Köpmanholmen Departures from Köpmanholmen Strängöarna Trysunda Fjären Ulvöhamn
09.00 09.10 09.25 09.50
M/F ULVÖN
M/F MINERVA
M/F ULVÖN
06.20 06.45 07.30 08.20
10.00 10.15 10.40 11.15
11.30 11.55 12.30 13.00
09.00 09.35 10.20 11.00
12.00 12.25 12.50 13.15
13.30 13.50 14.25 15.00
M/F MINERVA 15.30 15.50 16.10 16.20
M/F ULVÖN
M/F ULVÖN
15.30 15.55 16.40 17.30
20.15 20.40 21.15 21.45
17.45 18.20 19.05 19.45
22.00 22.20 22.55 23.30
Complete time table and eventual changes at www.mfulvon.se BY CAR At the parking lot at Köpmanholmen a parking fee is charged. You can pay from an hour to an entire season. BY BUS If you want to take the bus to Köpmanholmen, search for the bus trip on www.dintur.se or call DinTur Customer Service +46 (0)771-100 110. The bus to Köpmanholmen goes from Örnsköldsvik. If traveling from elsewhere, then you can change bus there.
SOMMA 18 JUNI
Ulvöhamn
Ulvöhamn Fjären Fjären Strängön Strängön Trysunda Köpmanh Köpmanh
Köpmanh Köpmanh Strängön Strängön Fjären Trysunda Ulvöhamn Fjären
Ulvöhamn
LASARETTSGATAN 15, SE-891 33 ÖRNSKÖLDSVIK. PHONE +46 (0)660 885 90 PARADISET@ORNSKOLDSVIK.SE WWW.PARADISETORNSKOLDSVIK.SE
Sea & Coastal Areas Adventure Life in the Archipelago Nature Adventure and Experiences Food & Culture Quality of Life
EDITORIAL STAFF
PEDER SUNDSTRÖM
ANDERS LÖNN
HÅKAN NORDSTRÖM
STEVEN EKHOLM
Magasin Höga Kusten Publishing AB Box 77, 891 33 Örnsköldsvik mail@magasinhogakusten.com | www.magasinhogakusten.com +46 660 - 701 07
EDITORIAL OFFICE
|
ADVERTISING
+46 660 - 700 17
Cover photograph Peder Sundström STAFF Anders Jonasson, Olof Wigren, Anders Hägglund, Magnus Lundin, Lena Hedman, Marit Sigurdson, Leif Wikberg, Martin Fryklund, David Rocksén Devocy® Communication
Magasin Höga Kusten is produced by Magasin Höga Kusten Publishing AB which is owned entirely by the following companies active in the region:
Sundstroem ImageWorks, Didot Reklambyrå, Nordströmbild, Grafisk Kompetens i Norr and TM Progress Holding.
We are not responsible for material that we did not order. The opinions expressed are those of the individual authors and are not necessarily consistent with those of the editorial staff. Magasin Höga Kusten is printed on Gallerie Bright Bulk 80gr. and UPM Fine 300gr. by Forssa Print. Höga Kusten Magazine is produced using typefaces from Hoefler&Co.
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
4
SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
Welcome Welcome to to a a unique unique meeting meeting place place Hotel High Coast is a beautiful place for conferences and Hotel High Coast a beautiful conferences entertainment. 28 is rooms with 56place bedsfor with a fantastic and view over entertainment. roomsInwith beds with a can fantastic the High Coast28 Bridge. our 56 restaurant you enjoyview fine over food the High Coast In ourWe restaurant you enjoy fine food and drinks with Bridge. high quality. also have ancan extensive program and drinks with high We also have ancomedians extensive and program of entertainment and quality. show nights, stand-up of entertainment theme nights. and show nights, stand-up comedians and theme nights. We can offer first-class conference rooms with a capacity for 130 We can special offer first-class conference with apersonal capacityservice. for 130 people, activities and a veryrooms renowned people, special activities and a very renowned personal service. Very welcome! Very welcome!
Reservations and information Reservations +46 613-72 22and 70 information | www.hotellhoga-kusten.se +46 613-72 22 70 | www.hotellhoga-kusten.se
INTRO
O N T H E 2 0 T H O F J U N E , I T S TA N D S T H E R E , warm, welcoming and above all smelling great. Mjälloms Tunnbröd, Sweden's oldest thin bread
bakery, is continuing on its journey towards the source and building an entirely new bakehouse at its popular visitor centre by the bakery in Ullånger. In summer, you will be able to see how thin bread is made by hand and also have a go yourself. Naturally, you will be able to buy some bread to take home; bread that has been made in the same way since 1923. mjalloms.se
great smelling news // FOOD & DRINK
The Top Ten
INN ON ULVÖN
// ACCOMMODATION
// NATURE
Ulvö Rum och konferens is now Ulvö Gästgifveri and the new owners are looking forward to a fabulous summer out on the pearl of the Bothnian Sea. The 12 guest rooms of varying appearance and size have a shared kitchen for those who want to prepare their own meals, but of course it is much nicer to eat in the restaurant, which offers both tables inside in the salting house and in restaurant Brögga's outdoor seating area.
You don't have to travel half way around the world to experience fantastic nature and create travel memories that last a lifetime. Sweden, including our four Nordic neighbours, is home to some of what are perhaps the world's most fantastic places. And perhaps it is the High Coast in particular that is the best. Which it is if you believe the list of "The 10 most magically beautiful places in the Nordic countries" that the travel site Skyscanner has recently presented, in which the High Coast is included along with places such as Fårö on Gotland and Jökulsárlón in Iceland. skyscanner.com
ulvögästgifveri.se
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
6
SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
WHY DON’T YOU VISIT THE HIGH COAST ART VALLEY Örnsköldsviks museum & art gallery SUMMER EXHIBITIONS Free entrance!
CRAFT STORIES 11 June-27 August New Västernorrländsk handicrafts with ancient inspiration. ÖRNSKÖLDSVIKS
MUSEUM & KONSTHALL JÄRVED – Industrial history and the Nolaskogs spirit Industries and business companies in Järved. Built-up environments, photos and films
COUNTY EXHIBITION 1916 IN ÖRNSKÖLDSVIK 11 June-27 August Photos, films, texts and objects a reminder of the spectacular County exhibition in Örnsköldsvik 1916. In the Museum Park there are more photos to be seen regarding Örnsköldsvik 100 years ago.
The High Coast Art Valley is the name which describes this magnificent art and nature valley, situated only 25 km from Örnsköldsvik. To date the Nätterlund Foundation has placed 26 sculptures along this cultural passage. The High Coast Art Valley is a great opportunity to see unique and interesting art in a beautiful landscape setting. A perfect start could be to visit Herrgårdsparken in Köpmanholmen. This very beautiful and peaceful park easy to access is the perfect stop whilst waiting for a ferry to take you to Trysunda and Ulvöarna, in the archipelago. Walking around the park will take you about an hour and it offers something for everyone. The legacy of Jonas Nätterlund (1924-1995), made it possible to place sculptures in this landscape. The foundations goal is to place a new sculpture at least once a year in this valley. Imagine how this area will look in the future. Thank you Jonas!!!
HERRGÅRDSPARKEN
Bruks Museum & Café Svea 20/6 – 14/8 Open Monday-Sunday 12.00 – 16.00
NOLAVONDA – HISTORY COLLECTORS A cultural historical exhibition. About children, for children. Activities for children linked to Nolavonda. Come and Play! CAFÉ AND MUSEUM SHOP Open 1 June-31 August, Tuesday-Saturday 11-16. From 1 September Tuesday 11-20. Wednesday-Saturday 11-16. VISIT BROR MARKLUND’S WORK SHOP - CLOSE TO THE MUSEUM Läroverksgatan 1, Örnsköldsvik. Phone +46 660-886 00 For more information www.ornskoldsvik.se/museum
Genesmon archeological open air museum Open with staff on site from 1-30 July, Tuesday-Saturday 10.00-17.00 free entrance Guided tours daily at 11.00, 13.00 and 15.00 of the Archeological Site and the Iron Age Settlement. Explore the site independently and take part of the beautiful surroundings with a reconstructed Settlement from the Iron Age, take part in the daily chores and learn more about the past. How to find Genesmon: Domsjö 6 km South of Örnsköldsvik. For more information www.ornskoldsvik.se/museum
Mini train tours for children & adults (Starts at Bruks Museum) Wednesdays & Saturdays 14.00-15.00 Guided tours (Starts at Bruks Museum) Wednesdays and Saturdays 12.30
Brynge cultural heritage site Brynge is a historical industrial area illustrating different periods of industrialisation. Included are activity days, events and art exhibitions. Café in Alberts Bod open daily from 3 July-31 July 12.00-16.00.
FOR MORE INFORMATION natrahembygd.se highcoastartvalley.com natterlundsminnesfond.se oviks_museum_eng_2016.indd 1
How to find Brynge: Brynge 30 km South of Örnsköldsvik, road 908 between Bjästa and Sidensjö. 10 km from E4, Bjästa. 5 km from the church in Sidensjö. For more information facebook.com/bryngekultur & www.brynge.nu
2016-06-16 14:57
DESIGN
Fjällräven Classic Swedish outdoor brand Fjällräven's product line is, without comparison, the pride of the region and a role model in terms of the conscious focus on high-quality products. This High Coast-based company is now a worldleading brand, with flagship products that include the trendy Kånken rucksack. This retro rucksack is just as timelessly cool in Nordingrå as it is in New York. fjallraven.com
Knivörjes You are excused if you do not yet own one of Peter Örjeheim's knives. Not many people do. But many of the high-profile celebrity chefs have already fallen for both the stunningly beautiful craftsmanship and the attention to detail and quality that put the expensive knives they already own to shame. A Knivörjes knife is nothing less than the ultimate jewel you can give your kitchen. knivorjes.se
Made in the High Coast
Some of Sweden's most skilled artisans and creators are thriving and developing along the High Coast. We have visited a small band of entrepreneurs and been able to see their creativity and capture a selection of the most stunning products to be found here.
Skare Skare make their hand-dipped and hand-painted candles in the candle factory overlooking the High Coast Bridge. The shapes and colours of the candles are inspires by the High Coast's unique combination of sea, mountain and forest. skareljus.se
Runa of Sweden Sanna Grannas' new accessories that are attached to the top button of a shirt have won both hearts and prizes. The Runas have a raw and simple design that originates from the World Heritage site and celebrate the shirt as an item of clothing. Available in several styles. runaofsweden.com
Docksta Sko Docksta Skofabrik is a company with a heritage stretching back one hundred years, is almost iconic in terms of its craftsmanship and was Norrland's largest shoe factory for many years. Docksta Brogues are the latest creation, produced together with the award-winning designer Mats Theselius. Well-dressed, at the same time as being comfortably relaxed, which means that they work just as well in the office as they do at an evening function. dockstasko.se
High Coast Surf Designs When Jimmy Yoshio Shibata moved to the High Coast, he brought with him 10 year's experience as a board shaper. Jimmy learned his trade in Japan and here he has created High Coast Surf Designs. When shaping boards he chooses materials that are produced as locally as possible. The core material (polystyrene foam) comes from Kramfors and the stringer (the wooden backbone of the board) is made of Swedish pine. He also uses environmentally friendly epoxy that is made from pine resin. The boards' measurements are adapted to conditions in Sweden, making them easy to surf in our conditions. facebook.com/highcoastsurfdesigns
9
DESTINATIONS
TIMELESS ROADS PHOTOGRAPHS
Håkan Nordström
TEXT
Anders Lönn
Dare to turn off the E4 and truly discover the High Coast. The area abounds in lovely winding country roads that undulate through the landscape, most of which join up in one way or another. If you do take a wrong turn, it doesn't matter. There's certain to be something to discover, even on a dead end. A beautiful bay, an alluring mountain or perhaps some new friends. Breath easily and relax on your new journey of discovery.
F
inally on the way. We have passed Härnösand and are approaching Älandsbro, which suddenly appears in the form of a flashing sign screaming "Reduce Speed!". We are clearly driving too fast. Thanks for the heads up. It would actually be good if these warning signs were in more places. We need to be reminded more often to slow down and take it a little easier. In our lives, as well as on the road. And take it easy is precisely the theme of our journey along the High Coast. We plan to skip the E4 and drive a little more aimlessly instead on the lovely minor roads that wend their way along this dramatic stretch of coast, created by the land rising. Simply for the sake of discovery and taking it, as I said, easy. Quite simply a holiday.
a sense of calm. No traffic, a winding road through an area of summer cottages, a cat keeping watch on the verge. Glorious. The first stop is Härnösand Golf Club on the Vägnön Peninsula. This has a stunning location on a peninsula, with the sea as the backdrop to some of the holes. We are golfers so are curious about what the course and greens look like. They look really good and we become really keen to play. It's just a pity we left the clubs at home this time. Outside the clubhouse, we meet one of the senior members of the club who tells us that Härnösand is the province Ångermanland's oldest golf club. We take the opportunity to eat lunch in the club restaurant and then borrow some clubs from the shop for a spot of putting practice. A lovely break.
W H E N W E H AV E P A S S E D Ä L A N D S B R O
B A C K I N T H E C A R A G A I N and off towards the next destination, Hemsön, which we have heard and read a great deal about. Hemsön is Norrland's fourth largest island, with an area of 54 square kilometres, and it is reached on a normal yellow road ferry,
and driven over the railway bridge we see the sign for the tourist road, the white flower against a brown background, on the right side of the road and turn off from the stress of the E4. We immediately feel
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
10
SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
Äla
Ullånger
Mjällom Salsåker Norrfällsviken
Omne
Nordingrå
Häggvik Bönhamn
Barsta
Nora Rotsidan
Lövvik The High Coast Bridge
Storön
Rö
Hemsön
andsbro
Lungön
Högbonden
JOURNEY ON THE MINOR ROADS The view over the road that cuts through the rolling landscape seen from the artist couple Arvidsson's exhibition barn in Mjäla is one of the many magical views along the way. The High Coast Bridge, with its 180 metre-high towers, is really a massive landmark in the High Coast. The best pictures are taken from the Höga Kusten Hotel, especially in the light of a summer evening. Salsåker Herrgård, also known as High Coast Manor, is in a pretty location, surrounded by greenery on its own island in the High Coast. The B&B here offers a sea view from all rooms and relaxation in breathlessly beautiful nature is promised. The fishing village of Norrfällsviken catches the evening sun in a way that invites visitors to stay up late into the evening. A very attractive campsite is tastefully located by the sea. All roads lead to Hemsö Fortress – almost. When you get there, just enjoy the wonderful view from the restaurant, have something to eat and, of course, take the guided tour. Sågverket, with its good food, is a draw. It also has a very exciting history that can be found and read about on large posters in the former sawmill.
the only one in the High Coast. The island has over one hundred permanent residents. It appears to be a really lovely place to live. When we reach the tourist destination of Hemsö Fortress we have a coffee break in the new restaurant and then go on an exciting guided tour of the old military installation. It is impressive hearing its history and seeing the caverns that have been blasted out of the rock. Finding something to do at Hemsö Fortress is not an issue, but we are satisfied with a tour this time. But we will certainly be back to discover more. We take the ferry back to the mainland and continue along winding gravel roads to the little village of Rö and Sågverket. We found Sågverket when we were doing some research ahead of the trip and knew we had to stay there. It's a cosy Swedish Tourist Association guest house and is well-known for its good food. They say themselves that it is a place to meet, hang out, rest and enjoy good food and drink. We can only agree. We check into a room and after dinner and a little music in the bar we sleep well following the eventful start to our road trip along the High Coast. This looks promising. N E X T M O R N I N G , we continue north
along gravel roads, through fields and charming little villages teeming with life. After a while, we have to turn onto the E4 for a bit in order to drive over the mighty High Coast Bridge. Naturally, we take the opportunity to stop at the Höga Kusten Hotel by the northern end of the bridge. From the hotel's balcony, there is a magical view out over the river Ångermanälven and the bridge. The bridge is modelled on the famous Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco. The High Coast Bridge is one of Sweden's tallest structures, rising 180 metres over the surface of the water. The bridge has the longest span in Scandinavia.
When we continue, we want to get off the E4 as quickly as possible and find the exit to join the minor roads again after only a few kilometres. We pass Lövvik, where Swedish singer Tomas Ledin usually hangs out with his relatives and drive on through Nora and towards Nordingrå. We pass loads of cosy little villages with names we have never heard. We hope that this is an area that develops, that new families move in and create businesses and new dreams. We stop on the road towards Nordingrå at some local galleries and look at art and ceramics. A few kilometres before Nordingrå, we see a sign advertising a blues evening and bar. We look up at a charmingly ugly building the sides of which are in a variety of different colours. Some were painted, some scraped, the rest were neither. But the neon sign saying rock and café is clear. The focus here is on content. Exciting. Unfortunately, it was not this evening that there would be blues so we'll have to do that another time.
by the mouth of the bay and watch all the gorgeous boats leaving the harbour after the night's rest. A short walk from the sea takes us up to the golf course. In the shop, we borrow clubs from Sam, who has moved here from Australia, and play a round on the fine 18-hole course. Down by the holes along the coast, we get a view straight out to the island of Ulvön. It feels close enough to swim to. We finish our visit to Norrfällsviken with a late lunch down by the harbour. Norrfällsviken is situated right out by the sea, so we have to drive back the way we came and take the opportunity to walk up Omneberget for a look at the view. Completely fabulous. We turn off "the main road" towards Salsåker and stop at Villa Fraxinus. Walking around the diversity of flora here is a delight. We meet the young couple who took over the place only a few years ago. They confirm that looking after all the plants is a lot of work, but that the quality of life they now have is worth many times the effort they put in.
I N H Ä G G V I K W E V I S I T Anders and Barbro Åberg's life's work, Mannaminne. A fantastic open air museum with over 50 buildings, exhibitions and a hotel. They also have a good restaurant. We had Baltic herring with homemade mashed potato for lunch. After having walked around among the buildings for several hours, we set the compass for the pretty fishing village of Barsta. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs and take a walk to the nice little chapel that was built by the local fishermen as long ago as the middle of the 17th century. The next stop is Rotsidan. A fantastic strip of coast south of Bönhamn with red rocky slabs, worn smooth by the water and stretching for several kilometres. Walking barefoot on the warm rocks is a totally magical experience and we take the opportunity to have the year's first dip in the sea. It is lovely. We move on to cosy Bönhamn and have a drink while waiting for the boat to take us on the short crossing to Högbonden, Sweden's second highest-located lighthouse. We have made reservations for dinner and accommodation in the hostel by the lighthouse at the highest point on the island and with a marvellous view across the sea. There is a sauna down by the sea where we warm ourselves up before bed.
W E A R E A P P R OAC H I N G T H E E N D
E A R LY I N T H E M O R N I N G , we take the boat back and continue our journey towards Norrfällsviken. New stunning views appear constantly. When we reach Norrfällsviken, we park and take the path
14
of our road trip and we feel really satisfied with the journey. But what would a trip to the High Coast be without stopping at Mjälloms Tunnbröd for a tour and a visit to their factory shop. We buy fresh thin bread to take home for the fermented Baltic herring party we are thinking of having with our friends. We spend the last night of our four day trip in Björkudden's Hotel, with a view out over the High Coast Bridge. After dinner, we sit down in the garden with our beers and look out at the bridge. We declare this to have been a few wonderful days and we are thinking of coming back next year to do the northern section of the High Coast from Skuleberget and up. We are already longing to return. //
Junsele Djurpark INFO
& Camping
Opening hours at the zoo Every day from 11.00. 24/6 - 14/8 | +46 621-102 95
FROM
FAMILY OFFER
24 June - 14 August
2600:-
ole family
for the wh
2 adults + 3 children • • • •
Cabin for 2 nights Entrance to the zoo all the days Free carousels for the children Entrance to the temperated pool
For reservations +46 621-105 54
camping@aventyrsberget.se | www.junseledjurpark.com
We support the tiger project
Make your shopping at... Hotel & restaurant with à la Carte
Since 1991
Entertainment every day during the whole summ er See program at www.salooncorn er.se +46 621-104 30
nära
JUNSELE 24-25/6 26/6 12-13/7 18/7 18-24/7 31/7 13/8
+46 621-106 25
Midsummer Meet The day of the zoo Junsele market Junsele flea market at night Sjörövarbus - entertainment for children at the zoo Dog show at the zoo PRO Cruising and Länsförsäkringsdagen
FOOD & DRINK
Now, one of the cosier destinations is located in "nothing"
the lovely plum jam TEXT
Berith and Göte Nilsson sold their cows 27 years ago and built a small farm shop out in what they themselves call "nothing". What they didn't know then was what a stroke of genius this would prove to be. Now, one of the cosier destinations is located in "nothing" or Själand – as it is actually called. In the middle of the High Coast World Heritage. I T H A S T O B E S A I D T H A T the Nilssons had a unique sense of what would happen many years later. Back then, at the end of the 1980s, stopping what you had been doing and starting something completely new was a foolhardy adventure. Just because you felt like it. But even with the results in their hands, they couldn't have been more right. The farm shop,
Gårdsbutiken, is now run by the Nilssons' son David and his wife Anna. And naturally, Berith, who started it all, does her all important bit. There is now a café and restaurant, they manufacture their own range of products and have a cosy gift shop. We ask David what drives him to continue developing the company. Our company is constantly moving, we always have new goals and visions in mind. It is hectic, but insanely fun. Take something like the potato growing operation we are running together with Salberg Farm in Nordingrå. About ten per cent of all the potatoes we grow are used in our own food and bread operations. The rest is sold locally by traders in the High Coast. It feels really good to be able to deliver locally produced products and at the same time know that we have contributed to this. F O R T H O S E O F Y O U who are yet to find this jewel of the High Coast, make sure you visit this summer. Award-winning food and a shop
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
16
SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
Anders Lönn
filled with a wide variety of delicacies they produce themselves. And whatever you do, don't miss their plum jam … magical! And that is just one of over 20 of the products they now manufacture under their own brand. T H E N I L S S O N S T H E M S E LV E S would love for you to take in the calm atmosphere of the simple garden. Or perhaps admire the geranium window while enjoying coffee and some home baking. As much as possible of the food in the restaurant is locally produced and David is a very skilled chef. Take the opportunity to try something from their rich menu before you head home. The majority of the ingredients are from the area and differ from day to day. It can be fun to conclude your visit by buying some locally produced gifts in the wellstocked shop, perhaps for friends or forthcoming dinner parties. //
GREETING
S FROM
LIFE´S GO OD
It was a day ou t. Cycling along Gula lede n and further away, towards Genesåsens beautiful pines and then back again into tow n along small roads. Finally lunch and rest in the inner ha rbour. Relaxation.
WELC
OME
INESS HAPP ED ANTE GUAR
Storgatan 30, Örnsköldsvik
The High Coast's
best nature reserves municipalities are home to a total of 112 nature reserves and one national park. In other words, there is a pretty much endless supply of protected environments to discover that are well worth a visit. Nature reserves are established in order to protect natural areas, preserve biodiversity, care for and preserve valuable natural environments and species or meet the need for outdoor recreation areas. We now list our favourites from among these fantastic places. Put on your boots, grab the map, pack your lunchbox and get out into this fantastic landscape, created by millennia of nature and culture and preserved for the future by all of us together. So walk carefully!
T H E H I G H C OA ST ' S F O U R
Högbonden
Sweden's second highest-located lighthouse (1909) and an exciting rocky island with deep clefts and caves.
Högklinten
The mountain with the world's highest shingle berm, c. 260 metres above sea level and a unparalleled view
Norrfällsviken
Magnificent barren coastal environment with the gigantic shingle berm Bådamalen at the far end on the headland.
Omneberget
One of Norrland's premier vegetated south-facing slopes offers an alluring view and plants that love the warmth.
Rotsidan
Fantastic, four kilometre stretch of coastline with weathered diabase stone slabs for both bathing and storm-chasing.
Skuleberget
A strong symbol of the High Coast that has the world's highest measured coastline, 286 metres over sea level.
Södra Ulvön
One of the archipelago's most unique and varied wildernesses, with fishing villages and evidence of past mine workings.
Trysunda
Sweden's most beautiful island, with its well-preserved fishing village and varied nature, is an absolute must.
Villmyran
One of the best places to see rare orchids such as the elusive ghost orchid.
Balesudden
This enormous red cliff with the crystal clear water of the tarn Balestjärnen is the High Coast's most prominent navigation mark.
More information about the nature reserves in the region can be found in Naturum Höga Kusten at the foot of Skuleberget. naturumhogakusten.se
viaferrataskuleberget
A UNIQUE ADRENALINE KICK AND AN AMAZING ADVENTURE We have Europe’s largest Via Ferrata Center with four trails that have different levels of difficulty for all.
OPENING TIMES Drop-in days: May-August 10.00-19.00 • September 10.00-17.00 • October 10.00-15.00 VIA FERRATA AB SKULEBERGET • 870 33 DOCKSTA • PHONE: +46 (0)613-405 00 • LATTE: +46 (0)70-612 22 15 • TERO: +46 (0)70-612 22 16 E-MAIL: INFO@VIAFERRATA.SE • WWW.VIAFERRATA.SE
@viaferrata
HISTORY
ESTER
In the deep waters of the High Coast, one of the world's most interesting sailing stories has just been brought to the surface. A tale about a boat, craft, honour and the dream of sailing again.
T
he history of Sweden's single most successful racing boat of the last century is more pertinent than ever. The beautiful ESTER, launched in 1901, was built for one reason, to defend Sweden's honour at the prestigious Tivoli Cup yacht race against the Finnish challengers who had been waiting several years for the chance to regain the cup. Following some speculation, it was Gunnar Mellgren who was given the prestigious task of designing ESTER. Mellgren created a boat just as beautiful as she was unique in terms of form. The Finnish boat magazine Frisk Bris wrote in 1901 about the impression Ester made in Sandhamn before the challenge; Ester is also an extremely remarkable phenomenon, one of the most beautiful yachts that has been created. No Finnish boat and, barely any Swedish can compete with her in terms of elegance, finesse of craftsmanship and superiority. The entire yacht gives one the impression of the most beautiful carpentry. As early as that first summer, ESTER was able to
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
create a widely known reputation for her perfect form and capacity. To the delight of many, she ensured that the Tivoli Cup's honour was defended and remained in Sweden. In the years that followed, she had a period in which she won all the races she started; at one point she had 29 wins in a row. Rumour of the boat's speed had definitely reached Gothenburg as no one wanted to race against her for the Röhss Cup, which she won as a result. She also won SS Æolus' distance yacht race, all her starts at the Gothenburg Regatta, two yacht races in Norway and the new Gothenburg Yacht Club's triangle yacht race. I N R E P O R T S A B O U T yacht races Ester started, it sometimes states that as soon she was registered for the race, it was already decided. For many years, she was the fastest boat of her size in Sweden. Following many successful years and various owners, all trace of ESTER vanished from all known registers of shipping in 1915. She only turned up again in 1933, now with a
20
SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
After more than 70 years on the sea bed, Ester is in amazingly good condition. Very much thanks to the Bothnian Sea's conservational properties.
AS SOON AS SHE WAS REGISTERED FOR THE RACE, IT WAS already decided cabin and rechristened Brita as a gift to Örnsköldsviks SS. The final yacht race result that has been found for Brita is from the midsummer regatta at UIvön in 1937, when she was first over the line. She then met with her sombre fate. On a dark autumn night when sailing from Trysunda, fire broke out on board and she went to the bottom off Järvön while the crew were saved in the dinghy. This probably happened at the end of the 1930s, but the actual year is unknown. long years, ESTER has rested alone, deep down in the sea that she once brilliantly conquered and ruled over. Then in 2011, she was found by Per Hellgren after much searching at a depth of around 50 metres. She appeared to be in surprisingly good condition where she
FO R M O R E T H A N 70
ESTER CRAFTSMANSHIP LOA
15.30 m LWL
8.04 m BEAM
3.00 m DRAUGHT
2.00 m SAIL AREA
108.4 m2 BUILDER
Stockholms båtbyggeri
21
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
21
rested on the bottom and did not appear to have any significant damage as a result of the fire. Last summer, the dream of raising her to the surface again and giving life to this iconic thoroughbred racer finally became a reality. Following laborious and very careful planning, Ester was successfully raised and transported to land in late June. Careful restoration now lies ahead before she can once again rule the waves, this time as a unique rental boat with a crew that allows her to compete and sail in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. A new era for the over-100-yearold mythical Ester is soon to be added to this story, in new waters, with new owners and a new crew. //
IN THE MOMENT
photographs
Magnus Lundin
The art of surfing without waves. Or canoeing without a cockpit. Stand up paddle is total freedom, superb exercise and really fun.
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
22
SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING W H AT ?
Stand up paddle was developed by surfing instructors in the 1950s who used paddles to get around with their pupils. It first started spreading as an alternative to surfing in around 2000. The name stand up paddle boarding (SUP) was coined at the same time and the sport is now growing fast internationally. WHERE?
You can paddle in pretty much any body of water in the High Coast, both in the sea and in lakes. H OW ?
At Hรถga Kusten Surf , you can find everything you need to get started. They provide courses, sell and rent equipment. They also have special tours in various parts of the High Coast. hogakustensurf.se
FOOD & DRINK
The guest house for true bons vivants
Länsmansgården PHOTOGRAPHS
L Ä N S M A N S G Å R D E N in Lugnvik has grown in recent years to become one of Ådalen's real destinations. Aside from conference facilities for small groups of up to 40 people, the guest house for true bons vivants offers really good food, frequent afternoon teas and a charming bed and breakfast with four rooms and eight beds. This idyllic manor house from 1909 offers plentiful opportunity to tailor your stay to your desires and requirements. Everything from coffee and cakes, lunches, buffets, three-course dinners, to wakes and Christmas dinner. Most food requests can be pre-ordered at Agneta and Anders Jonasson's cosy getaway in the heart of Ådalen and the High Coast World Heritage site. I N A D D I T I O N , there is something extra for
whisky enthusiasts. Thanks to this being one of very few Ardbeg consulates in Sweden, you are able to taste several of Ardbeg's, proclaimed by
Anders Jonasson
many as the world's best distillery, rarer special bottlings. They currently have close to 180 different whiskies! Its proximity to the newcomer, Box Distillery, means that Länsmansgården is now seriously on the Swedish whisky radar. In collaboration with Box Distillery, you now also have the opportunity to take a five-day whisky course. Conveniently enough, parts of the course, as well as the accommodation and meals, are provided at Länsmansgården. Anders Jonasson who runs the whisky activities at the guest house discovered his passion for the smoky beverage during a holiday on Islay in Scotland. He brought this interest home with him and now organises both tastings and whisky holidays, as well as being one of the founders of Box Whisky. Really firmly rooted, so to speak. A N O T H E R E X C I T I N G piece of news for all those waiting impatiently for their own whisky is that if you have a Box cask that you want to taste,
H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E
24 S U M M E R
ISSUE 2016
TEXT Steven Ekholm
Länsmansgården can now order in a sample from your cask so that you can enjoy it in peace and quiet at the guest house. Or why not book their popular whisky package, which includes a guided tour of Box Distillery, a whisky tasting, a threecourse dinner and a shared double room with breakfast included. Länsmansgården is only ten minutes from Box Distillery and 15 minutes from Kramfors Airport. //
FOOD & DRINK
IMPO SSIBLE BEVERAGES TEXT
Steven Ekholm
25 H Ö G A K U S T E N M AG A Z I N E SUM M E R I SSU E 20 1 6
WE ARE NOW SPOILED IN THAT WE ARE ABLE TO achieve THE IMPOSSIBLE
I
t should not really have been possible. But some people simply don't listen to those that say something is impossible. Instead they are inspired. Really inspired. And for Hernö Gin and Box Whisky, this has led to internationally distinguished star products of the least Swedish, Norrlandic or Ångermanlandic drinks imaginable. The fact is that the High Coast's most successful ambassadors in the world in recent years have been gin and whisky. Not luxurious hiking in the World Heritage site, the stunning natural harbours or even our beloved(!) fermented Baltic herring. Our self-image is changing. The region of emigration and closures has suddenly become Sweden's hottest and most dynamic visitor destination and we are now spoiled in that we are able to achieve the impossible, create something outstanding where before there was nothing. You can call this the High Coast spirit.
Y O U C A N L E A R N M U C H from the people behind the successes because, as we all know, nothing happens by accident. When success stories appear like a bolt from the blue, everyone is surprised apart from those who are behind the whole thing. They know how much work and investment has gone into these successes. But still. Sweden now has the third highest concentration of whisky
26
distilleries in the world and in spite of increasing competition among their colleagues in the rest of the country, Box Whisky is charging forward in the whisky world like nothing else. Quite simply, there is something that makes Box better than the others. Blind tastings do not lie. The same applies to Hernö Gin. In spite of the fact that when Jon Hillgren started his distillery five years ago it was the only one in the country and also the most northerly in the world, far away from the centres of gin culture such as Spain and England, awards began to rain down on his products after only a couple of years. Hernö Gin has actually won the most awards of any gin in Europe over the past four years, with more than 25 international Master and Gold medals. In addition, they have been named Boutique Distillery of the Year and won the Contemporary Gin Trophy at the Wine and Spirits Competition 2015. And even more. British Airways' in-flight magazine Highlife has described the distillery in tiny Dala, outside of Härnösand, as the best in the world to visit to taste gin. Not bad at all. our two most noted High Coast ambassadors is, aside from the fact that they are imbued with the High Coast spirit that nothing is impossible, is their completely uncompromising focus on quality. No short cuts, only the best. In
S O M E T H I N G T H AT U N I T E S
FOOD & DRINK
THIS EXTREMELY METICULOUS ATTENTION TO THE END PRODUCT PROBABLY MAKES THEM unique in the world such factors have a role to play. Their Oloroso casks from Jerez in southern Spain are also rebuilt from 500 litre casks and are delivered with a few litres of Oloroso sherry that is emptied out just before they are filled with Box new distillate. All to enhance the cask character. In order to enhance the taste experience, they also use old Pilsner malt, something that the majority of the whisky industry gave up in favour of more efficient and quantitative production. But which is a loss in terms of flavour. In other words, not something for Box Whisky. Their whisky is also not chill filtered and they do not use any colourants, something that is much more common than you might think in the world of whisky. At Box, everything always has to be natural and the whisky has the colour it is imbued with by the cask. Nothing is added and nothing taken away.
the case of Hernรถ Gin, this includes finding the best flavourings in the world. For example, they use Hungarian juniper berries, meadowsweet from the United Kingdom, coriander seeds from Bulgaria, black pepper from India, lemon peel, Chinese cinnamon from Indonesia and vanilla from Madagascar. Only the lingonberries come from Sweden. Everything is also certified organic. production in 2010, also choose to go the extra (costly) mile when creating their noble drink. In addition to benefiting from the perfect climate, with large variations between summer and winter, and the cold cooling water of the ร ngerman River, they work extremely carefully to choose their oak casks. For example, they buy used 200-litre bourbon casks made of American white oak from the USA. These are then rebuilt by Sweden's only cooper, Johan Thorslund, into Box casks that hold 39.25 litres. Johan Thorslund also builds the casks made of, for example, new Swedish and Hungarian oak that are used to a lesser extent. Furthermore, they fill the new oak casks with distillate over the course of several months in order to draw out the most aggressive oak notes. Labour intensive and expensive. But essential to achieving the high quality requirements that have been set. This extremely meticulous attention to the end product probably makes them unique in the world. And it is clear that
B O X W H I S K Y, W H I C H S T A R T E D
in putting the High Coast on the international map with two very rare creatures like world-class gin and whisky production, what can't we achieve? What will the next "impossible" successes in our region be, now that it has been proved that everything is possible? The recipe for success when no one else sees it is thus, in any case according to Hernรถ Gin and Box Whisky, single-minded and dedicated effort and a ruthless focus on quality. And a liberal dose of the High Coast spirit. //
I F W E A R E N OW S U CC E S S F U L
27
FOOD & DRINK
Our Part of the World T H E H I G H C O A S T I S increasingly developing into a gastronomic destination. Its unique position and nature contribute to really good ingredients from both the forest and the sea. And there is much more to find than just Baltic herring and thin bread when you go looking for current or perhaps future flavours in the High Coast. One of the most important reasons why the food scene has developed so rapidly is of course that very skilled and visionary chefs have moved here. Or rather they have returned home. And what they have brought with them is the knowledge and experience they use in their kitchens. In addition, modern chefs are increasingly looking for locally produced ingredients, something which in turn benefits the region's artisanal food producers. In other words, quality rather than quantity. The ingredients that are now experiencing a gastro-
nomic renaissance in the High Coast include whitefish, perch and pike. But even seabirds are appearing more often on menus. Not forgetting the classic fermented Baltic herring!
O N E O F T H E H I G H C O A S T ' S Y O U N G and modern chefs is Tobias Andersson at the Ulvö Hotel. He buys all he can locally. Fish, meat, particularly the muchloved pig from Långsjön and everything in between. Tobias is also part of the group of chefs who, together with us here at Magasin Höga Kusten, are now working intensly on a delicious book about the flavours of the High Coast. He has contributed several really exciting recipes for dishes for both parties and outdoor meals. If you have a freshly caught sea trout in front of you, it tastes heavenly when grilled over an open fire, with grated almond potato pancakes and butter laced with vodka and lingonberries.
GRILLED SEA TROUT GRILLED BALTIC HERRING GRATED ALMOND POTATO PANCAKES
RECIPES FROM HÖGA KUSTEN
“Our Part of theWorld” W H AT ?
A book that is soon to be published based on the many delicious ingredients from the High Coast. A sumptuous book, beautifully illustrated, bound and covering about 200 pages. Is being published in November. You can read more and pre-order the book now at: magasinhogakusten.com
T H I S M E T H O D O F grilling fish over an open fire is perfect for fish between a half a kilo and one kilo. A couple of old paper clips or a little copper wire is used to secure the fish to the stick. Work in a little salt before cooking. Cooking time depends on how the fire looks and the size of the fish. But it is faster than you think. If you are not sure you'll catch anything, take along some fresh whole Baltic herring and place then directly on the embers. Grilled Baltic herring are fabulously tasty when you eat them outdoors. Let them sit on the heat for a couple of minutes on each side. Tobias' grated almond potato pancakes with butter laced with vodka and lingonberries are a perfect accompaniment to both the sea trout and the Baltic herring. The simplest way is to take along a cast-iron waffle iron that you can place directly on the fire. Grate a few washed almond potatoes with the skin on. Oil the waffle iron and in with the potatoes. Salt and pepper them. Add a few tablespoons of the butter. Turn a few times until they are golden brown. The butter is a delicacy in itself.
The essence of Norrland, so to confirm all the prejudices, we steep the lingonberries in vodka overnight. Then we whisked the butter so it becomes fluffy. What could be better than butter? Fluffy butter, that's what. Then in with the vodka and lingonberries and quite a lot of salt flakes. (Tobias Andersson)
Suitable sea trout Almond potatoes Some Baltic herring Butter Oil Salt Pepper Whipped butter on Vodka Lingonberries Salt flakes
EXERCISE
Few places in our country offer such undulating and varied road cycling as the High Coast. There are three tours you do not want to miss this summer.
more varied roads for cycling than those around Nordingrå and out towards the coast are hard to find. Wonderful, winding asphalt roads, fringed with rolling meadows, mountains, small lakes and bays. Starting out from Nordingrå, it is easy to follow the road towards Häggvik, continue towards Barsta, enjoy the hills to Bönhamn and then reach Norrfällsviken via Omne. Nothing less than magical. This is a hilly environment, but easily ridden, varied and it is simple to find good routes.
PRETTIER AND
very nice tour that takes a little over two hours starts in Örnsköldsvik. Cycle past Hörnett and continue south, past Bergom and turn right after having passed Bjästa. Follow the undulating hills right into the country to Sidensjö Church, where you turn right at the crossing and follow the 335 all the way back to Örnsköldsvik. Probably one of the better and prettiest training routes in the High Coast and one that is used frequently by the local cycle clubs.
ANOTHER
an unparalleled view out over the sea, cycling across the High Coast Bridge is a classic, majestic tour that can also be ridden as part of the sportive Höga Kusten Trampet, and there are plenty of options here for taking a circular route. It is easiest to start from the Höga Kusten Hotel on Hornö, which is a good beginning and end; it is easy to park and you can end the day's cycling well in the hotel bar. Either take the route Ramvik-Lunde-Sandöbron and return to Hornön or the slightly longer one where you follow road 90 towards Kramfors and then on to Nyland, before crossing the Ångerman River and coming down road 334 to Hornön. Both routes offer stunning views and charming surroundings. The first tour is 30 kilometres, while the longer is almost 80.
I F Y O U WA N T T O E X P E R I E N C E
LOVE ASPHALT A C O M M O N M I S T A K E new cyclists often make is to choose poor quality, thinly padded gloves. After only 10 kilometres or so, you can easily start to feel uncomfortable pressure in your hands and palms. British brand Rapha's products are nothing other than pure luxury and stylish craft. /1
1
Rapha Classic Mitts – SEK 800.
more pleasant than going out alone, but if you have no other companions to compete against, then a cycle computer is a stimulating companion to gain seconds against.
ant when you are racking up the miles and you are starting to get far from home. But with gel, flow, carbon, vibration absorption, vanadium steel and classic Italian leather, most people will surely feel more than satisfied and retain the sensation in their genitals.
/2
/3
C Y C L I N G together with others is always much
Garmin Edge 810 – SEK 4,000.
Y O U WA N T to sit comfortably. Really comfort-
Selle Italia Max Flite Gel Flow – SEK 1,700.
ably. A bad saddle easily becomes really unpleas2
3
WONDERFUL, WINDING ASPHALT ROADS, FRINGED WITH ROLLING MEADOWS, MOUNTAINS, SMALL LAKES AND BAYS.
Peder Sundström
Dan-Marcus Pethrus hunts for asphalt roads among the magical mountains in Häggvik.
EVENT
SWIMRUN Last year's High Coast premier for the increasingly popular endurance sport swimrun became the toughest and most physically demanding competition ever. The course designer Mikael Lindnord is planning for an event this summer that will again put participants to the test, but he hopes this time to avoid the worst storm of the year.
PHOTOGRAPHS
Peder Sundstrรถm
32
TEXT
Mikael Lindnord
T H E A R M S C R A N K frenetically in the troughs of the waves, the safety boats work hard to keep watch on the participants as they hurl themselves one by one out into the black water by the slippery rocks. You can see the participants counting the waves in order to catch the biggest of them when it is on its way out so as to minimise the risk of being pushed back towards the land. This summer, Saturday 16 July, Höga Kusten Swimrun makes a new attempt to master this tough course. M A N Y P E O P L E R E M E M B E R the extremely strong south-easterly wind that swept through the area at the exact time of last year's competition. A little way into the competition, the leading group jumped from the island of Klösan with the intention of reaching Björnviken on Trysunda, but then the waves crashed in so hard that the safety boats had problems in the three-metre-high waves and the competition was forced to turn around and the course was redrawn into a horseshoe in the middle of the event. Consequently, the competitors never reached the notorious middle section that
is extremely decisive; the long swim from Trysunda to Järvön of 1770 metres and then the "rock garden", before swimming over to Balesudden and climbing up to the top, which is considered to be entirely make it or break it. ways unique, it is almost as if Poseidon himself had placed the islands that sit like a perfect strip to link together into a perfect course. New this year is that the competitors will be climbing Ögeltjärnsberget, from where you get one of the High Coast's most beautiful views and can see pretty much the entire course and how short the distance is to the finish in Gullvik.
THE COURSE IS IN MANY
T H E O D D S T H AT it will not just be sun and blue skies are pretty small, given the statistics. So, whatever happens, this year's competition will be a tough challenge. The High Coast is looking forward to the elite swimrunners competing for the much sought after places in the world championships, which are organised in September each year in Stockholm Archipelago between Sandhamn and Utö. //
We have a precious heritage to nurture. From the lush inland to the spectacular coastline. Unique, mythical and filled with untouched nature, but also an area full of history and strong believes in the future. We who live here are proud and friendly and nothing seems impossible to us. Experience a destination where adventure, relaxation and good flavors will enhance your stay. Welcome to share all of this with us! Welcome to Hรถga Kusten! - The High Coast of Sweden.
ho g aku sten . com
2000 m OUTDOOR AND OUTLET STORE 2
ÖRNSKÖLDSVIK brogatan 141, fjällrävenhuset tel: 0660-10340 | mån–fre 10–18 | lör 10–16 | sön 11–16 www.naturkompaniet.se