Nomad 028 September 2020

ISSUE 29. OCTOBER 2020 . FREE COPY

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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WHAT THE HECK IS BURNA BOY DOING IN MAASAI MARA?

y first trip out of town post-lockdown is to Maasai Mara. After being shown to the cozy tent where I will be spending the next two days, I kick off my shoes and lie back on the comfortable bed. The setting is so peaceful; I am surrounded by thick foliage, and the silence is only occasionally punctuated by sweet biophony which I absentmindedly listen to as I start to drift off to sleep. I can tell that it’s going to be a relaxing weekend.

Suddenly, the sound of Burna Boy penetrates my cocoon. “Oluwaburna, uh-huh, yeah yeah yeah…”

What the heck is Burna Boy doing in Maasai Mara?

My neighbours, it seems, did not come to the lodge for serenity but to blast their afrobeats at full volume, perhaps in a bid to entertain the baboons. Later, when I come back to sleep for the night, I will be kept up by the neighbours laughing, dancing and whooping outside their tent like hyenas till the early hours of the morning.

The next day, while out at the lookout point to see wildebeest crossing the Mara River, the cars on the opposite banks get impatient and decide to drive so close to the animals that, alarmed, some jump into the water before they are ready, while others skitter away. You would think that it is the cars trying to cross the river instead of the wildebeest! Whatever happened to blending into the wild and observing animals without disrupting their lives? Our guide even tells us that some cars have driven right into the river (which is teeming with crocodiles, for the record) in previous years in their quest to get close to the wildebeest.

Don’t get me started on the tour operators that were banned from the Mara for 30 days for flouting park regulations by allowing their passengers to alight from the vehicles to take selfies...

As you enjoy our return issue with stories from the Maasai Mara and plan your own trips, please remember to observe basic safari etiquette…

Wendy Watta ON THE COVER MARA YAWN

by Brian Siambi

@WattaOnTheGo

NOMAD ISSUE 29 · OCTOBER 2020· PUBLISHED BY PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MANAGING DIRECTOR BEN PETERSON, JAN VAN DER DOES DE WILLEBOIS EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES MANAGER VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA CONTRIBUTORS CATRINA STEWART, SIMON MARSH, SHEILA FUNELL, SAMANTHA DU TOIT, FRANCES WOODHAMS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS TREVOR MAINGI, JOSH KISAMWA,BRIAN SIAMBI, KUSH SHAH MARKETING & OPERATIONS CAROLINE RUBIRO SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMAD.AFRICA

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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CONTENTS 14

THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH Wendy Watta drives to Maasai Mara to witness her first ever action-packed wildebeest migration, one of Kenya’s key tourism offerings. Spoiler alert: the crossing is as spectacular as hoped.

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October 2020

In this issue 8. TOP SHOTS This issue we feature some of our favourite wildlife shots from the Maasai Mara, taken during the on-going wildebeest migration season.

10. NEWS The humpback whale migration season is on at the coast, Balala launches the Lion and Spotted Hyena Recovery and Action Plan, and other updates.

FEATURES 18. MARA ON A BUDGET Budget and safari don’t often go together, still less when it’s the Maasai Mara during migration season. But it doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg, as Catrina Stewart finds out.

22. TRAVEL TIPS Check out these five ways to cut costs in the Mara, then flip over to five things to do in the game reserve.

22. SHE FLIES HOT-AIR BALLOONS...

We hang out with Kenya’s only female Hot Air Balloon Captain, Joyce “Smiles”

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22 Beckwith at her log cabin in the Mara, and find out about her thrilling job.

24. PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE We feature some of our favourite Kenyan photographers who documented this years migration and they offer some tips 32. TEMBEA KENYA As Kenya’s hospitality opens back up with unbelievable offers to entice travelers, find a round-up of properties to consider for your next trip.

REGULARS 12. NOTES FROM THE BUSH As things come to a standstill in the wild, Samantha du Toit muses about how clearer the air has gotten.

38. THE ZEBRAS BEING PROTECTED BY A HISTORY OF CULTURE At Westgate Community Conservancy, the survival and conservation of Grevy’s zebras is entirely about people, the sustainability of their livelihoods and the innate value they hold towards the species.

40. GREAT HOTELS Simon Marsh goes mobile camping at Leleshwa Luxury Camp and sticks around for some game viewing.

42. SPOTLIGHT At Rekero Camp in Maasai Mara, one need not even go on a game drive to see the great migration. Set on the banks of the Talek River, crossings happen right in front of the mess area. Breakfast with a side of gnu, anyone? Set on the banks of the Talek River, crossings happen right on your doorstep.

44. LAST WORD A family heads to the beach for a holiday, but as dad signs up for all the adventurous activities, it becomes apparent that he’s going through a midlife crisis...

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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CONTRIBUTORS

WHERE HAVE THEY BEEN TRAVELING LATELY?

BEN PETERSON Publisher

JAN VAN DER DOES DE WILLEBOIS Managing Director

FAITH KANJA Digital Manager

I am absolutely anxious to get back to my two favourite places in Kenya: Lamu and Maasai Mara. For various reasons, I have not yet been able to travel, but the second I can, I’ll be there!

I went to Nanyuki and watched other people fish. Then went to Holland, followed

by Kitui. Now that we’re all working from home I thought I might as well work from the coast, so I’ve been enjoying the beach.

I’m looking forward to visiting Nanyuki and Taita Taveta on my motorcycle. I’m happy that the cessation of movement was lifted and I can now do long distance trips, but even during lockdown, I enjoyed exploring the city and its environs.

THE JETTSETTERS Amanda Eyre Ward When Charlotte enters a Jetsetter contest, she yearns to reunite her estranged children: Lee, an almost-famous actress, Cord, a handsome venture capitalist who can’t seem to settle down and Regan, a mother who took offence when Charlotte bought her a Weight Watchers gift certificate for her birthday. Charlotte yearns for the years when her children were young, when she was a single mother who meant everything to them.

BRIAN SIAMBI Photographer & Graphic Design I’ve been to Laikipia and the Mara and it's been interesting seeing how nature healed when we were away. I’m looking forward to going to Diani for diving, Kilifi for the laid-back vibe and Lamu because it just feeds the soul.

When she wins the contest, the family packs their baggage—both literal and figurative—and spends ten days traveling from sun-drenched Athens through glorious Rome to tapas-laden Barcelona on an over-the-top cruise ship. As lovers new and old join the adventure, long-buried secrets are revealed and old wounds are reopened, forcing the family to confront the issues that drove them apart.

Can four lost adults find the peace they’ve been seeking by reconciling their childhood aches and coming back together? The Jetsetters is a book about the courage it takes to reveal our true selves, the pleasures and perils of family, and how we navigate the seas of adulthood.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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TOP SHOTS

KUSH B. SHAH Instagram @kush254 In the Mara Triangle, smoke and dust filled the air and as dusk set upon the savannah, it brought with it a beautiful fiery ‘red sun’.

I took this shot using a Sony A7III and a Sigma 70-200mm lens. My settings were 1/320 sec, F / 6.3 and ISO 320.

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NEWS & EVENTS

MORE WILDLIFE PROTECTION The Nairobi National Park celebrated a new milestone after 49,000 acres were added to its previous 29,000 acres.

The increase of its wildlife ecosystem to 78,000 acres came after the International Livestock Research Institute (ILRI) and Swara Plains Conservancy declared 32,000 and 15,000 acres of land respectively for wildlife conservation in Machakos County. In addition, the government added 2000 acres of land from Sheep and Goat Ranch to Nairobi National Park. Speaking at the Ceremony, Tourism and Wildlife CS Najib Balala said that the government is looking to acquire 1500 acres of land to extend the Nairobi National Park to Ngong Forest.

BALALA LAUNCHES LION AND SPOTTED HYENA RECOVERY AND ACTION PLAN Cabinet Secretary for Tourism and Wildlife, Najib Balala, launched an elaborate Lion and spotted Hyena Recovery and Action Plan that will run from 2020 to 2030. During the launch in Maasai Mara, Balala explained that lions and hyenas are important to the food chain in the wild as they control herbivore populations which if left unregulated, would increase competition amongst them making some species go extinct, hence reducing biodiversity. Balala added that the planning process was participative, transparent and informed by the best available science. He then announced that currently, Kenya has a population of about 2,489 lions as compared to a 2018 estimate of about 1,970 lions. He also called on all stakeholders in Maasai Mara to form a Maasai Mara Management Plan by August 31, 2020, in order to manage this rich natural heritage properly.

UHURU URGES KENYANS TO TRAVEL AND PROMOTE LOCAL TOURISM President Uhuru Kenyatta expressed satisfaction with the measures being taken by stakeholders in the hospitality sector to protect tourists from Covid-19. He said Kenya is ready to receive tourists and encouraged local and foreign travellers to take advantage of the prevailing low rates to visit the country's famous tourist sites. "I want to take this opportunity to encourage every single Kenyan to take advantage and to travel. You can travel...you can move," the President urged. As you know, we have also opened up our skies and flights are coming. We welcome all those who choose to come," he added. Speaking from State House during a live virtual meeting aired at Maasai Mara, he urged Kenyans as well as visitors to continue observing the Covid-19 containment protocols, emphasising that safety is also very much an individual choice.

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NOTES FROM THE BUSH

CLEAR

SKIES As things come to a standstill in the wild, Samantha du Toit muses about how clearer the air has gotten.

I

t could be my imagination, but the air seems so much clearer now.

More often than not these days we can see from Mt Suswa to the North to past Oldonyo Lengai to the South, all in one turn of the head. The Ngong hills seem an arms-length away and I can make out individual trees on the Nguruman hills some 10km away. Perhaps it is just the time of year, and the rains have arrived again which might help. But it does seem different. Could it be the result of less air pollution? Who knows, but it seems likely, and perhaps there are some silver linings to every dark cloud?

In many ways our lives have not changed on the surface. We still watch the baboons making their way along the river bank every morning to wherever it is they go every day, and watch them come back in the evenings, arguing as to who gets to sleep next to whom as they settle down in the fig trees for the night. We watch the kingfishers catching insects on the lawn and the speckled bush snake basking

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in the morning sun on a branch by the dining area. We listen to the rain pound the roof of our tent at night, and watch the river swell throughout the day. The children entertain themselves collecting bugs and identifying them as part of their ‘homeschooling’ lesson for the day, as we reply to emails and catch up on the news online, trying to make out what is really going on in the world.

But of course, life has fundamentally changed for all of us, whoever we are, in ways in which none of us could have predicted. Many friends, family and colleagues had suffered from pay cuts and job losses in the last few months.

Money for conservation was also fast disappearing, as our donors also suffered unprecedented losses in income. Tourism was at a standstill.

But we decided to take that time to learn. We agreed as a family to focus more time on becoming ‘local experts’, taking long walks with our Maasai guide and camp naturalist, Nixon, to learn more about the birds and plants. We have spent

more time in the kitchen, learning how to make bread, pizza dough and shortcrust pastry. We have learned to rely on local food supplies and local medical care.

We have, perhaps, become more a part of the community in doing so. We have learned to take less food at every meal, and think twice about waste. And we have learned that without reserves we are very vulnerable. This applies not only to finances, but to food, medical supplies and energy. In this ecosystem, it applies very much to livestock and to grass. Now, as things gradually change, we are coming out with a different world view, one that will teach us lessons that we hope will serve us all better in the future.

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife conservationist, working with SORALO, a Maasai land trust. She lives with her husband, Johann, and their two children at Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the Shompole Conservancy.

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MAIN FEATURE

THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH

Wendy Watta drives to Maasai Mara to witness her first ever action-packed wildebeest migration, one of Kenya’s key tourism offerings. Spoiler alert: the crossing is as spectacular as hoped.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI

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n the opposite banks of the Mara River, what may well be a thousand wildebeest cover the vicinity, ready to plunge 15 feet below to either greener pasture or death.

Despite having visited Maasai Mara a couple of times, this is my first time witnessing the wildebeest migration, an event that runs from July to November each year with up to two million animals (mostly wildebeest, but also zebras and gazelle) moving in a clockwise direction across the ecosystems of the Serengeti and Mara to graze and calve. I am taken aback, too, by just how many cars there are- I reckon it’s about 300- all piled with eager tourists waiting to ambush with their cameras. I am under no illusion that I have unearthed this experience, and will certainly not be setting up any monuments or renaming the place after myself.

Prior to visiting, I had imagined a melee where millions of wildebeest storm across the river at once like some biblical exodus across the Red Sea, but they seem to cross in large herds several times throughout the day. Every day. It also takes a lot of patience waiting for them to actually cross as they like to linger, sometimes skittering about, only to backtrack; a process that seems quite confused to the novice human eye. Hippos lazily bask in the afternoon sun as crocodiles bob in and out of the water, eyeing the impending buffet.

About 40 minutes later, a scout goes down the high rock interface and jumps into the water. Hot on his trail, a large swirl of dust gathers as the rest of the herd, in a loose column, hurl themselves into the water and half-swim, half-jump to the opposite side. They clamber out, nodding, bearded heads as clumsy as their gait. Some run off, diminishing into the empty landscape, while others seem to mill about, beckoning to their peers.

Not everyone makes it though. After driving about a kilometre away, we watch as a lioness glides through the tall grass on padded paws with a graceful elegance and deadly concentration about her, steely gaze zeroing in on a herd of wildebeest. Calculating. “Is it really going to attack?” someone animatedly whispers in the car.

But, a few seconds later, the lion slinks back into the savannah. A broken limb or exhaustion can make the wildebeest easy pickings for predators, as the half-eaten bodies around the park can attest. Other wildebeest also drown and their carcasses later float downstream to be teared apart by vulture talons, stinking up areas like the Mara bridge.

Prior to visiting, I had imagined a melee where millions of wildebeest storm across the river at once like some biblical exodus across the Red Sea, but they seem to cross in large herds several times throughout the day.

That evening, with hyenas whooping in the distance, we unwind around a bonfire as the lodge staff ply us with nuts, soft drinks and amusing stories. In the absence of a good glass of wine, given the government restrictions at the time, these post-game drive hangouts are just not as fun, and so I turn in early for the night. The day has been exhausting. We left Nairobi early in the morning and after a brief stop for lunch in Narok Town, arrived at Maasai Mara’s Sekenani gate only six hours later. If you had visited the Mara by road some two years back, you would have sworn never to do it again given the terrible state of the road, but having been tarmacked all the way to the gate, it is now more accessible than ever. Cocooned under canvas, I dream of elephants huddled around my apartment in Nairobi watching Blood & Water on Netflix.

One reason I’ve never seen the wildebeest migration before is that this time of the year is always peak season in the Mara, and prices are adjusted to reflect that. This year, with a lot of countries still on lockdown given the on-going pandemic, the focus has been on domestic travelers, and a lot of lodges have been offering competitive discounted rates to draw visitors. If you’ve never witnessed it, now would be the time to go.

The following morning we are off to the lookout point to see the crossing a second time. On the way we spot animals like zebras, but in this season of wildebeest, anything else is just supporting cast...unless you see a hunt, because that will always be epic. Elephants trumpet in the distance. Buffaloes are camouflaged into the hillside like black boulders. A warthog skips past, intent on warthog business. Wildebeest, too, are cantering across the dirt road in numbers that will never cease to amaze. Should there be a long wait today, I have some packed lunch ready...

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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MARA ON A BUDGET

Budget and safari don’t often go together, still less when it’s the Maasai Mara during migration season. But it doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg, as Catrina Stewart finds out.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI

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he guard has the measure of us. He’s bored, probably hasn’t seen another visitor all day.

It’s starting to drizzle, a chilling, seeping rain that reminds me of Scotland where I grew up. As the wind picks up, gusting over the desolate moorland, I wonder what on earth we’re doing here.

“Two thousand each,” the guard says, looking speculatively at the skies, rapidly darkening with every moment we dither.

“And you’ll need a ranger.” I argue that it should cost 1,000 shillings, and point to the noticeboard with the advertised prices.

We’re right, but argument at this point is futile.

We’re at the furthest, most remote edge of the Maasai Mara at Sand River gate, ordinarily a Mecca for the seasoned campers shunning expensive lodges. Although still, barely, in Kenya, I feel as if we could touch the wide expanse of Tanzania and the Serengeti.

Like most, I have typically experienced the Mara in a conventional way: flying in, staying at a luxurious tented camp and surrendering my independence for a couple of days to experienced Maasai guides armed with an intimate knowledge of the reserve and the animals within.

But a stay in a plum Mara lodge usually requires a hefty chunk of one’s savings. There are ways to slash costs, not least by piling into a crowded minibus with a bunch of sweaty tourists. Or, you can DIY it, driving your own car, picking your own lodges, and even camping. But would the wildlife experience be anything like as good?

By the time we pulled into the Aruba Mara camp, a campsite a hundred metres outside the Talek gate, the car was making the first of its ominous, clanking sounds that would dog the trip.

We were not experts in pitching tents, and certainly not in the darkness. The first we found to have no fly sheet, the second became a tangled mess. Luckily, I had a couple of spares, and Edward, our Maasai host, quickly took us under his wing, and showed us how the experts do it. Sweat pouring down my brow, I suggested we retire to the bar for some food and drink. “Closed now,” he said. “You should have rung ahead.”

Instead of heading out on a game drive the next morning, we watched a mechanic wriggle into position underneath the battered Toyota Prado, and solder broken parts together. I parted with 500 shillings, and we hit the road again. We meandered through the park, marvelling at the plethora of wildebeest, which had in earlier weeks started their arduous journey to the Mara, braving the treacherous rivers with gaping crocodiles lying in wait.

Spotting big game - particularly the cats - is something of a science. An experienced guide will notice an empty clearing where droppings indicate that plains game were recently grazing, and surmise a big cat might be lurking in the undergrowth nearby.

We had no such innate sense, and instead used our observation skills to spot a cluster of minibuses that might suggest something interesting nearby.

En route to our next night’s lodging, Julia’s River Camp, a budget lodge situated in a prolific wildlife-viewing part of the reserve, we lost our way. The Mara is short on signs, and maps are of little use when dozens of unmarked tracks criss cross the plains. It was 7:00 pm, and dark, not a twinkling light to be seen, and we were driving around in circles. The wildlife was the least of my worries - far more concerning was the prospect of a zealous ranger catching us breaking the golden rule of never driving at night.

I called the lodge and James, the manager then, asked us to describe where we were. “Um, somewhere near the river, but it has opened out a bit,” I faltered as a hyena slunk in front of our headlights. “Stay where you are,” he said, “and we’ll drive out to find you.”

The next day, I asked a ranger who to call if lost in the Mara at night. “You shouldn’t be driving in the reserve at night,” he admonished. “I know,” I said, “but say you do get lost, and it gets dark, who do I call?” He looked at me unsympathetically, and said, “You shouldn’t drive in the reserve without a guide if you don’t know the way.”

After a night on stony ground, Julia’s offered a spot of luxury.

We had a simple dinner, chatted around the campfire, and retired to a fairly spartan, yet comfortable, furnished tent which I didn’t have to leave to go to the loo.

The next morning, we ditched the car for a game drive in one of the camp’s vehicles. I hadn’t yet seen any cats, and I wondered if a budget safari means economising on the wildlife experience.

But my doubts were soon dispelled. James stopped the car, and smiling broadly, said, “Cheetah.” We watch the group of male cats prowl just metres away from the vehicle. As I fiddled with my camera, James whispered, “Watch, they’re going to hunt.”

All my adult life I have dreamt of seeing a cheetah give chase, reaching the incredible speeds (100 kph) that make it such a successful predator. And now we watched breathlessly as a cheetah launched itself into the chase at full pelt, the wildebeest in its sights vainly trying to outrun it. Within moments of the kill - while the cheetah were still catching their breath - a pair of hyenas arrived on the scene, and snatched the wildebeest from under the cheetahs’ noses. They burrowed their snouts in the unfortunate beast, tearing at chunks of flesh, bone and entrails, raising their blood-coated faces only to snarl at the gathering vultures and jackals, all longing for a bit of the kill. What we’d witnessed was the whole, bloody cycle of death in the Mara, with not a minibus of tourists in sight.

Later, we hit car trouble again, the near front wheel starting to emit a high-pitched screeching sound of metal on metal. A colleague holidaying in the Mara texted us excitedly, giving us a blow-by-blow account of the wildebeest crossing the river, crocodiles snapping at the beasts plunging ungainly through the surging waters as they made their great trek north from the Serengeti. Come quickly, she urged, while it’s still going on. But the car was going nowhere, and nor were we. “I can’t believe we’re here during the migration and we missed it,” I muttered to Brian.

The mechanic patched the car back together - and we were ready to go. By now, it was 400 pm and prime game viewing time. But we were pressed for time and whizzed past grazing wildebeest, zebra and a herd of elephants, intent on reaching Sand River before nightfall.

And so here we were, at the ends of the earth - or so it felt.

After his lukewarm welcome, the guard led us away from the gate to a charming spot under a tree on the river bank, and our spirits started to pick up. We pitched our tents and huddled next to a campfire, set up by the rangers who would keep us safe for the night.

I awoke early, and surveyed our surroundings in an entirely new light. The sun started to edge its way over the horizon, spreading a golden, ochre hue over the boulders and surrounding moorland. Hundreds of campers before us had woken to the same view and I started to appreciate why Sand River is considered one of the country’s more magical wild campsites.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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MARA

THINGS TO DO IN THE MAASAI MARA

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HOP ON A BALLOON For a totally different perspective, book a hot-air balloon ride. The ride, lasting an hour or so, takes in the vast sweep of the reserve, travelling where the currents take it, before landing for an opulent champagne breakfast. Rides normally set off before dawn. Ask your hotel to arrange. $450 per person.

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2 ENJOY A SUNDOWNER Head to a high point with your tipple of choice to relax and watch the sun slowly set over the Mara. Lodges will have their own regular spots for sundowners, but if you’re self-driving, try Lookout Hill, or pretty much any high point with a view looking west.

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GIDDY UP It’s now possible to do short riding safaris in the Mara, which for a rider with some experience can be very thrilling, offering the opportunity to gallop alongside animals at close range through beautiful country. Ride Mara, through Great Plains Conservation, offer morning or afternoon rides, lasting around two hours, several companies and lodges offer this.

4 TAKE A WALKING SAFARI Little beats getting away from the vehicles, and wandering slowly through the bush, and enjoying close (but safe) encounters with wild animals with experienced Maasai guides. Along the way, learn about game tracking and look out for those unusual bugs and creatures rarely spotted from a car. Walking safaris are not permitted in the reserve, but can be arranged in the surrounding conservancies.

FIVE WAYS TO CUT COSTS IN THE MARA •

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Usually you would travel in the low season, particularly January to early April, when rates are slashed across the reserve. This time of the year is usually a high season thanks to the great migration, but this year, plenty of tour companies and lodges have unbelievable offers.

Stay outside the park to avoid paying extra in park fees, and for a wider range of budget options.

Self-drive and camp. If camping is your thing, this is undoubtedly the cheapest way to experience the Mara.

There are several public campsites in the Mara Reserve, and the adjacent Mara Triangle. Beware, though, that extras, such as rangers for security, or guides hired at the gate, can start to push up costs.

Join an organised tour. A plethora of travel companies, some more reputable than others, offer budget trips of two or three nights from Nairobi, with discounted accommodation options.

Visit travel fairs, such as the one at Sarit Centre every spring, to bag good deals from hotels and lodges. Check out lodges’ websites, too, for special deals outside of peak season.

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SHE FLIES HOT-AIR

BALLOONS...

TEXT: WENDY WATTA

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INTERVIEW

I meet up with Kenya’s only female Hot Air Balloon Captain, Joyce “Smiles” Beckwith at her log cabin in the Mara. She sets up a sundowner with cocktails, guacamole, nachos and chilli, and we sit on her front porch which opens up to the savannah.

Wildebeest mill out front, and she tells me that just yesterday, lions were spotted nearby and hippos came for a drink at the small waterhole just in front of her house. “This is the real Giraffe Manor!” she exclaims, adjusting her vibrant beaded Maasai necklace bought straight from the mamas in the nearby manyatta. Having been off work for the last few months, she’s currently getting ready to take to the skies again...

What made you want to become a hot air balloon pilot?

I got married into a ballooning family. My husband’s grandad was a balloonist, and my father-in-law and husband are both balloonists. It was just time. You wake up everyday with someone and go to work with them, and one day you’re just ready to fly by yourself. I’m a Hotel & Tourism Management graduate and came to Mara in 2007 as an intern, and to-date, I still run my own travel agency and do hospitality marketing so I never really left the job.

For how long did you have to study?

We had moved to Germany and were living there but decided to come back to Kenya in 2012 after my husband got a job here. I was flying with him a lot as a passenger whenever there was room for an extra person in the basket, and I loved it so much that I decided to go for it. First, I went to Albuquerque, New Mexico, to study both commercial and private flights for 5 months. There are no schools for ballooning in kenya.

So then you came back and got on the job straight away…

Not really, it was a struggle. Coming back to convert your foreign license into a kenyan one wasn’t instant. All companies here do commercial rides so it wasn't easy.

Last year, after knocking all the doors, one opened with Sun Africa’s Balloon Adventure based at Keekorok Lodge.

What’s your typical work day like?

I meet my guests the night before a flight then start the next day at 4:30am. I pick them up so we’re building a rapport as we drive to the site. I check the aircraft and make sure everything is all good, then ensure all the passengers are at ease. Flights are only in the morning

and last 40 minutes to an hour...it’s great because tourists are always happy and excited to be flying, and the experience never disappoints. I have been on a hot air balloon anywhere between 600 and 700 times. I finish with the office stuff at about 11:30am to midday, and that’s a full workday for me...every day of the week. We’re in a tourism destination so no weekends. I do this for 10 months then go on holiday for two months.

So where do you travel to on your two months off-work?

We love cities, and have visited a few in Europe and America, etc. We also share a love for historic sites and will check out museums, monuments and the works... we have a list of places on our bucket list still.

Rome and Scotland were both all round beautiful, but usually at the end of our travels, I still want to get back to my bush life.

How does a city girl adjust to life in the wild?

I just got used to it. When I came here as an intern in 2007, I was busy working and didn’t get to go out much to experience the Mara. Over time, though, I befriended the tour drivers and would go out on game drives with them or clients to unwind on my days off, and that’s how I fell in love with the bush. My husband also first came here in 1986 when he was about 6 years old and fell in love with Maasai Mara, so when we met, we both loved being out here. I have moments when I will run to Nairobi because I miss concerts for instance...I’m always looking out for the next Blankets & Wine or Koroga Festival.

I wish we could have more of those in the Mara but it will never happen. Being a social butterfly, sometimes I struggle being out here so it’s fun to catch up with friends in the city. Plus I still get to meet people from all over the world so that’s one fun aspect of the job.

How would you entice someone in Nairobi to visit the Mara?

Driving into Narok town...it’s wheat season this time of the year so that’s beautiful to look at.The drive to the gates is very scenic because of the escarpment. Mara is now accessible with the new road and there are amazing places to stay depending on your budget, whether that’s a basic place with at least a pillow or something more luxurious. There is also the safari and other activities like ballooning and nature walks...

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We feature some of our favourite Kenyan photographers who documented this years migration and they offer some tips

Wildlife Photographer Clement Kiragu talks to Nomad about his passion for the job and why he keeps getting drawn back to Maasai Mara.

How long have you been a wildlife photographer and what have you learnt about the Mara ecosystem?

I started wildlife photography in Maasai Mara in July 2014 and have been travelling there a couple of times every year since then. I have witnessed the Mara ecosystem change over time and it’s getting extremely delicate. Just two years ago, our great Mara River was completely dry which meant that the lives of thousands of people and animals who depend on it were in danger. There was also that year when the great migration did not happen.

Deforestation, water catchment for agriculture coupled with global warming are just some of the issues threatening this wonderful ecosystem. I pray that we act swiftly to save it.

What were some of your favourite animals to photograph and why? v What advice would you give to an upcoming wildlife photographer?

Patience, patience, patience. This is a career you get into for the love of it, not to get a quick buck. Telling the stories of your subjects has to come first.

What image stood out for you during this year's migration and why?

My Image of wildebeests crossing the river

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at sunrise. Everything came together in that image; dust, drama and the morning light which painted the scene with beautiful golden rays. It brought back the memories of how we used to see the great migration in photos when I was younger. This was my first time witnessing such a big crossing, and in the best light of the day too.

What is the one lens you never miss on your trips?

I have two lenses that are a must for a wildlife trip. A 70-200mm and my faithful 150-600mm. That assures I have good coverage from 70mm to 600mm and can therefore handle any situation within that focal length.

Do guides form a big part of a successful photo trip in the wild?

There is a huge difference between tour guides and photo safari or film guides. I run photographic safaris in the Mara and the understanding that the guides I work with have about my style of photography, what I want to achieve and my clients is what makes the difference. We can be at the same scene, but thanks to the guide, we will create very different images.

Instagram: @clement.wild

PHOTO FEATURE

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PHOTO FEATURE

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PHOTO FEATURE

TREVOR MAINGI

@the_mentalyst

What equipment did you bring to the Mara to capture the migration?

I brought my usual Sony 24-70mm lens and Sony 70-200mm, but the best was the Sigma 150-600mm. This was the game changer when it comes to capturing wildlife.

Why did you select this shot?

I love the moment depicted here. The perfect morning light showing the chaos that ensued as the wildebeests crossed the river...it was truly a magical moment.

What would you like to capture on safari that you haven't shot so far?

Top on my list is watching and capturing an actual kill. That, and getting to capture the elusive leopard. I've shot it, but it was a very fleeting encounter..

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JOSH KISAMWA @joshkisamwa

What did you love most about your experience at the Mara this year?

According to the guides and locals, this was one of the biggest migrations in a while... it was amazing to witness thousands of wildebeest crossing the river. What made it even more special is that we got to see a wide variety of animals, landscapes and experienced different weather conditions which made the trip very memorable.

What equipment did you bring to capture the migration?

I am primarily a filmmaker and therefore had my Blackmagic Ursa Mini. It is an EF mount meaning I can interchange my lenses from my 5D MKiii which I had for pictures.The Lenses I had were Canon 15mm F2.8, 50mm F1.2, 24-105mm F4, 70-200mm ii 2.8 and the Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 Sports ef.For filming wildlife, I was mostly on the long lenses.

What would you like to capture on safari that you haven't shot so far?

I am yet to shoot a hunt from beginning to end. I'd love to capture that.

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TEMBEA

KENYA

As Kenya’s hospitality opens back up with unbelievable offers to entice travelers, here are some properties to consider for your next trip.

BUSH PORINI AMBOSELI CAMP Selenkay Conservancy The private Selenkay Conservancy– an important wildlife dispersal area for wildlife moving out of Amboseli National Parkensures the best possible game viewing in proper off-road safari vehicles, off the beaten track. With just 10 spacious guest tents, resident rates for a limited period are Ksh 14,500 pp sharing.

Exclusive use of camp on full board is Kshs 290,000 for upto 20 pax, and the entire camp can be booked on an exclusive basis.

Road transfers and flights can be booked for you. www.porini.com

OL PEJETA BUSH CAMP Nanyuki Set on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro river, a vital waterway of The Ol Pejeta Conservancy, the camp offers magnificent views of Mount Kenya where wild animals often wander from one campsite to the other and also to your doorstep. The conservancy boasts a wealth of wildlife, housing over 200 migrant and resident bird species and is also home to the last two remaining Northern White Rhinos in the world. Plan a serene visit to Ol Pejeta Bush Camp and get to live amongst the wild animals. www.olpejeta.com

EMBOO RIVER CAMP Maasai Mara

EAGLE VIEW SAFARI CAMP Maasai Mara

Emboo River is going back to nature, allowing you to enjoy a holiday that’s eco friendly, sustainable and community-focused.

By applying tech and innovation, it has created a Closed Loop System whereby its operations rely on local, renewable and natural resources. A highlight is usually their first and only electric safari vehicles in the Maasai Mara! The vehicles are silent, have no exhaust fumes and allow you to be one with nature during full day game drives. For rates, visit www.emboo.camp

This Camp is located on an escarpment with sweeping views over the Koiyaki Plains, a natural salt lick and watering hole. With this modern eco-camp, you are invited to gaze towards the future of sustainable tourism. Their vision is to blend the best of ecological architecture with state-of-the-art minimalist design to compliment the overwhelming natural surroundings. A highly acclaimed conservancy model for wildlife and nature conservation management, green season rates start at Ksh 36,500pp. www.basecampexplorer.com

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NOMAD TRAVEL LIST

ALEX WALKER’S SERIAN Maasai Mara This collection’s focus is on offering you access to the magic of the bush in a rich variety of ways. Each client has exclusive use of their safari vehicle at no extra cost, and on top of that, walking adventures, flycamping, night game drives, photography, ballooning… the list goes on. Their objective is to show you there’s more to safari than driving around ticking big animals off a list… It’s about being open to falling under the spell of this enchanting landscape. Inquiries on www.africanterritories.co.ke

CITY

EMAKOKO Nairobi National Park This 10-room classy property has hosted all manner of celebs, including Madonna.

It is the home of Emma and Anthony Childs who have created a luxurious bush idyll, a true escape whether en route to safari, or just looking for an escape from the city for a night or two. The bedrooms, all of which overlook the park, are huge and designed with a modern, contemporary feel. Each has a fireplace for chilly nights and guests can feast on the views from their own wooden decks. www.emakoko.com

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON NAIROBI HURLINGHAM Hurlingham Book any of their 96 guest rooms and suites with some rooms featuring balconies. Admire picturesque city views through double-pane and soundproof windows;. Work at a large desk with a comfortable chair. Enjoy a drink from the gourmet coffeemaker or minibar as you relax in front of a 49-inch LCD flat screen TV with cable channels. Get a good night’s sleep in our Four Points signature bed. Work out in the fitness center with Technogym equipment. Swim in the heated rooftop pool boasting breathtaking city views. Choose from a variety of international cuisines at Pablo's.

Newly renovated Mezze Restaurant and Level 8 Bar & Lounge overlook the sensational Nairobi skyline. Totalling 255 sqm, four function rooms (including a 122 sqm venue) are equipped with wireless High-Speed Internet Access and state-ofthe-art audiovisual technology; a business center provides support services. Enjoy a staycation for Ksh 10,000 for two people, on bed and breakfast. www.marriott.com

SAROVA STANLEY CBD It launched into Kenyan history in 1902 by becoming the first luxury hotel in Nairobi and the gracious host to prominent world leaders and celebrities. Sarova Stanley retains much of its historical charm while offering all the luxuries and amenities of a five-star hotel. Towering high up on the 8th floor is the charismatic and chic 1902 Club Lounge. With it comes a promise of personalized business solutions; exclusive boardroom access, specialized concierge services and whole day refreshments.

Inquiries via www.sarovahotels.com

TRADEMARK HOTEL Village Market With 215-rooms, this elegant and urban business hotel is inspired by the cultural and creative renaissance in Nairobi, reflecting the city’s industrious and innovative nature in its design. Each sound proof room offers a workstation, blackout curtains and various amenities. There is a clubhouse with striking views of the area on the topmost floor. Harvest, the hotel’s open grill brasserie, has excellent cuts of meat and focuses on farm fresh ingredients, for the perfect dining out experience. Rates from Ksh 10,000. www.trademark-hotel.com

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BEACH

BEACH KOBE SUITE RESORT Watamu The exclusive collection of suites here are designed with both an Italian elegance and authentic Swahili flair. Garden View suites are tucked in the luscious gardens and overlook the main swimming pool, while the highly-sought after sea topclass suites are sea facing. There are two swimming pools, a restaurant which faces the sea and a wellness spa to help you relax. It’s a great base from which to explore the marine pack and enjoy an array of family-friendly activities around town. Rates on www.kobesuiteresort.com

SILVERPALM SPA & RESORT Kilifi With 38 rooms, this contemporary style resort sets the benchmark for chic accommodation. A grand pool winds its way around the midsection of the resort which majestically sits on a cliff overlooking the sea. With most of the rooms, one can step right from the balcony and into the pool. There are two restaurants on the grounds. Rates start at Ksh 25,000 a night. Till the end of October, pay for 3 nights and stay for four, at Ksh 32,700pp sharing on halfboard. www.silverpalmkilifi.co.ke

MSAMBWENI BEACH HOUSE South Coast The property has a main house that sleeps 10 with a 14m infinity pool as well as three completely private villas, each with its own private pool and panoramic sea views. It lies along a private beach and the villa’s pools range from 10 to 30m, from where many Instagram pictures have been snapped. Choose from a jacuzzi overlooking the sea or a private sundowner overlooking a 500 year old baobab tree. Inquiries on www.msambweni-beach-house.com

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NOMAD TRAVEL LIST

LANTANA GALU South Coast The resort offers family sized apartments with lots of privacy and the kids can paddle and potter on the sand or take a dip in a choice of pools. Apartments can be booked either on a self-catering or meal plan basis as the resort also includes its own beachside restaurant and bar.

Low season prices typically start from Ksh 26,900 for a two-bedroom apartment and Ksh 20,900 for a penthouse. Inquiries on current rates via www.lantana-galu-beach.com

FORODHANI HOUSE Lamu Photos barely do this Swahili-style house justice. Its corner positioning means that guests can enjoy 270 degree views out towards Manda, and down towards Lamu town from its expansive terrace.

A nicer spot for a sundowner is hard to imagine. It comfortably sleeps 10-13 and has plenty of lounging areas by the pool, garden, dining area and more. The cost for the whole house is usually around Ksh 50,000, but there is currently a 20% offer including a complimentary activity. www.forodhanihouse.com

VIPINGO RIDGE Kilifi County This exclusive residential golf development has a top-ranked PGA championship golf course. It offers luxury accommodation in villas ranging from two to four bedroomsyou may enjoy the public swimming pool or opt for a villa with a private plunge pool on its rooftop terrace. There is a pristine private beach bar which offers some of the best seafood you can ever have at the coast. Inquire for reopening rates via www.vipingoridge.com

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SMALL TOWN

SMALL TOWN OLEPANGI FARM Timau It has five cottages including the impressive Round House with a bedroom on its upper floor and an outdoor bathtub.

Each morning, step out onto the wooden floorboards on the front porch of your cottage to take in the sheer beauty of the Lolldaigas. Food is organically grown in their garden. A favourite spot is the grass thatched Party House where bohemian maximalism is at play. Horse riding is available. They currently have special rates...contact via www.olepangifarm.com

CHUI LODGE Lake Naivasha There are eight, well-spaced luxurious cottages, each with its own veranda and views of the Rift Valley escarpment and the Sanctuary. The bedrooms have magnificent four poster king size olive wood beds, roaring log fires, en-suite bathrooms and unique dĂŠcor. On site is a large swimming pool overlooking the waterhole, and four course candle-lit dinners under the stars are highly recommended. Contact for special resident rates. www.oserengoniwildlife.com

100 YEAR OLD HOUSE Nanyuki This house was originally built in 1912 in Hurlingham, Nairobi, and was going to be demolished to make way for a skyscraper. In December 2018, the new owners decided to rescue it and moved it to Nanyuki, preserving a little of Kenya’s history. You will love it for its decor, views of Mt Kenya, and accessibility. Rates are Ksh 15,000 for two people, and any extra person thereafter is Ksh 2,500. Maximum capacity is eight people. www.onestopnanyuki.com

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20%

discount

Special Offer PLUS COMPLIMENTARY ACTIVITY

Come and relax on Shella Beach, Lamu island in magical Kenya

KARIBU SANA LAMU

Reservation: isabelle.simon@forodhanihouse.com

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THE ZEBRAS BEING PROTECTED BY A HISTORY OF CULTURE At Westgate Community Conservancy, the survival and conservation of Grevy’s zebras is entirely about people, the sustainability of their livelihoods and the innate value they hold towards the species, writes Sheila Funnell

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CONSERVATION

W

estgate Community Conservancy borders Samburu National Reserve on its western front. Just as the sun starts its early morning ascent up the horizon, I drive towards Sukuroi village to visit the women there. The sound of cattle bells fills the air and as I approach the settlement, young children herd their goats, sheep and camels towards Loijuk, the most favoured grazing site for herders during the dry season.

Loijuk sits in the valley formed by the chain of hills south of the Mathews Range. Water collects in the valley and if sustainably grazed, ensures abundant pasture and water for livestock throughout the dry season, making it a go-to grazing site for Grevy’s zebras as well.

I marvel at the delicate balance required to protect these amazing animals.

For people to tolerate their presence and share their most vital resources with them, they must first value the species.

Grevy’s zebras are important in Samburu culture; they lead the way to water during droughts, alert herders and livestock to the presence of predators and it is believed that their presence indicates the coming of the rains. Westgate Community Conservancy presents one of the most outstanding opportunities to see community-based conservation at work. These traditional values thrive in some parts of the conservancy and have contributed to the stabilisation of the Grevy’s zebra population today.

This species is however endangered.

Their population has dropped from over 15,000 in the 1970s to slightly over 3,000 today. Once more widely spread in the horn of Africa, they are now only found in Kenya and Ethiopia. Kenya holds more than 90% of the remaining population, yet less than 1% of Grevy’s zebras are found within formally protected areas. Their fate is closely intertwined with the pastoralist communities that they share their habitat with. Grevy’s zebras rely on the same resources as community livestock. Dominic Leparnat, a Samburu warrior, once told me that he would feel lonely if Grevy’s zebras no longer existed- a sentiment that is shared by many others in this landscape.

The Grevy’s Zebra Trust has been working in Westgate Community Conservancy for over 10 years, partnering with local communities, in an effort to reverse the effects of rangeland degradation and secure the future for these zebras, people and their livestock.

The conservancy is also home to a pride

of lions and it is not uncommon to see a team from Ewaso Lions monitoring and protecting the pride. The conservancy is a success story in the making and highlights the vital role communities play in the conservation of wildlife.

As I finally reach Sukuroi, I observe a thick thorn fence surrounding about 180 ha of land. The women are fixing gaps in the fence while animatedly talking to the children herding small stock. The women have cleared the land of the indigenous

Grevy’s zebras are important in Samburu culture; they lead the way to water during droughts, alert herders and livestock to the presence of predators and it is believed that their presence indicates the coming of the rains. encroacher tree species, Acacia reficiens, which otherwise covers parts of the conservancy in thick bush. The sight of the tree is contrasting in its effect- beautiful in stature but its presence is a cry for help. A. reficiens establishes in the dry soil that results from overgrazing of once abundant grasslands, and it is a clear sign that the land is degraded and lacking in nutrients. The fenced site has transformed from the bare patch of land it was six months ago; grass seeds that were planted have sprouted, and a diversity of wildlife species are making use of them. The sight of a small herd of Grevy’s zebras with two tiny foals represents the success that could be replicated much more widely; wildlife conservation begins and ends with people.

As he understands the local language, I ask my colleague, Andrew, what the women are saying to the children herding the livestock. “They are telling them off for breaking the fence to access the grass inside,” he translates. “They are trying to teach them to respect the cleared site because when the dry season comes, this will be the only grass available for the livestock to feed on.”

Today, more than ever, it is clear that Grevy’s Zebra Trust’s philosophy has never been more relevant. That the survival and conservation of Grevy’s zebras is entirely about people, the sustainability of their livelihoods and the innate value they hold towards the species.

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MIGRATION AT YOUR DOORSTEP At Rekero Camp in Maasai Mara, one need not even leave the premises to witness the great migration. Set on the banks of the Talek River, crossings happen right on your doorstep, writes Wendy Watta. Breakfast with a chance of gnu, anyone?

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SPOTLIGHT

A

s we settle in for a late breakfast, a delightful spread of cereal, cupcakes, bacon, eggs, sausages, freshly baked bread and a yummy thingamajig involving potatoes which I unabashedly stuff my face with, a large herd of wildebeest rush to the banks of the river with all the pomp and dramatic flair of a performance for the president on Madaraka Day. Except, rather than watching it on Citizen TV, this is happening right in front of our eyes, so near enough that it feels as though if I cough I will spook them...and anyone around me who will think I have Coronavirus.

We are sitting on a slightly raised wooden deck in the mess area of the camp as the Talek River stretches before us, snaking across the plains and disappearing into the horizon. Guests need not even leave the breakfast table to tumble about in the back of a landcruiser chasing a crossing as it happens right in front of your nose. If you do wish to head out, the Mara River is close enough to check out other crossing points.

The wildebeest only flirt and tease us, though, getting us all excited, but refuse to cross. We therefore mill about the two main lounging areas of the property, revelling in the stylish safari outfittings and drinking in the idyllic location until it's time to set off on a game drive. It’s a bloody clash of the scavengers when we chance upon a hyena sticking into the carcass of a wildebeest, really going to town on its tough skin while swatting away at the

ravenous vultures encircling with drool on their beaks, I imagine, and talons ready to tear apart some flesh. Further out, behind a croton bush, a lion called Olepolos plays “hide-and-pretend-to-be-a-tree” when our car approaches. It is shy, I am told, and I can relate. Sometimes I wish I could hide behind a bush when I see people approaching too.

A coalition of five male cheetahs fondly called Tano Bora are on the prowl; they like to hunt together. Nearby, two crowned plovers loudly alert a bachelor herd of impalas to the presence of predators. I wish I had friends like them .

We had opted for the six hour drive to the camp from Nairobi, but should you wish to fly in, Ol Kiombo Airstrip is only 20 minutes away from Rekero Camp. At Sekenani gate, while our driver sorted out our tickets, Maasai women selling their signature colourful beaded accessories pounced on us, and they were such assertive sales people that I ended up buying two neckpieces. Turns out that the first, a large striking piece decked in cowrie shells, is often gifted to a bride by her mother-in-law on her wedding day. The second, easily wearable even while out and about in Nairobi, was quite the ice breaker with the staff at the camp. I liked that, because beyond their politeness and the personalised attention to detail given to guests at high-end boutique properties such as this, our conversations went deep.

In the evenings, I would unwind on a swing hung up on a tree by the banks of the river, dumbfounded by the sunsets, idly watching baboons and elephants on the opposite banks. Everytime the hippos grunted further upstream, I would think there was a speedboat starting somewhere. When it got darker, I would sit so close to the bonfire that it's a wonder my hair wasn’t singed. “Can I top up your wine glass?” a waiter would ask. A man after my own heart.

One of only nine tents (including two family tents), ours with its ensuite bathroom, lounging area, dressing space and indoor shower sat on a bit of a cliff overlooking the river. The hot water bottles in bed made it cosy, like I was being engulfed in a really warm hug. The croaking of toads and grunting of hippos was almost drowned out by the rushing of water which lulled me into a deep slumber.

As the camp is unfenced, all kinds of game would wander past, and walking outside at night would require an askari.

At Rekero Camp, breakfast gave way to lunch, to afternoon tea complete with cake, to a delicious three course dinner, and although my jeans fit a little snug around the thighs on our last day, it was all happy weight.

Accommodation is currently Ksh 20,000 per person per night. Inquiries on residents@asiliaafrica.com

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MOBILE CAMPING IN THE MARA

Simon Marsh goes mobile camping at Leleshwa Luxury Camp and sticks around for some game viewing.

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T

o me, the essence of a really great safari is sitting around a fire with a drink, some mates and witty banter. This year is a unique one as the consequences of the COVID pandemic have meant that going to the Mara in the high season is a viable option for residents without the hefty price tag.

The mobile Leleshwa Luxury Camp is operated

by Joe and Gillian Charleson and their team, and this year it's set in some of the best private campsites within the Mara Triangle. The stunning location makes for an immersion into the sights and sounds of the migration whilst enjoying all of the fittings and attention-to-detail of a luxury camp.

During our visit, it had been set up at Kiboko Private Campsite, with the river lazily stretching along in front of the site and a resident pod of hippos observing us with casual suspicion. It offered the perfect backdrop to the mess tent, best taken in from chairs arranged along the bank. As it was the height of migration season, it was unfortunately not an unusual occurrence to see a wildebeest carcass floating past as vultures

GREAT HOTELS

waited to fulfill their role as nature's cleaners. It was however wonderful to fall asleep to the soft whoops of the hyenas in the evening and wake to the lions grunting to each other across the river.

The camp has ensuite bathrooms with warm showers, electricity in the morning and evening to charge cameras or phones, luxury shower products and soaps as well as staff who keep everything perfectly in order behind the scenes and prepare the most sumptuous meals almost as though to ensure the widening of waistlines.

We were not going to idle about at camp all day of course; there was a migration to see and our luck was in. The wildebeest were gathered on the reserve side of the Mara River in their thousands.

Some genetic instinct telling the creatures that the grass was indeed greener on the other side was powerful enough to persuade them to risk their lives and limbs by hurling themselves down sheer gradients into the dark waters below. Then

they crossed, splashing, swimming and clambering.

Aside from the spectacular crossing, there was plenty to see. With no other vehicles around, we were able to watch a majestic fully-maned lion leisurely devouring a wildebeest as a light breeze gave his mane an amusing bouffant effect. Some areas enjoyed an Eden-like vista with zebra, wildebeest, impala and elephants in vast numbers grazing in absolute serenity without an apparent care in the world and it was a pleasure to stop the vehicle and savour the idyllic scene as it would have been centuries ago.

Then there was a leopard, the master of camouflage, so clever and cunning that he can elude all but the most intrepid observers. A tip from one of the guides sent us in the right direction and a small movement alerted us to her presence before she settled into the undergrowth to await the fall of dusk where she could

head out to look for dinner. We were told she had two cubs nearby but they clearly had no intention of coming out to play for the audience.

Leleshwa Luxury Camp is only ever available on an exclusive use basis, ideal for either a family or a group of friends.

The staff have undergone their testing and are compliant with all the health requirements. It is available on either a self-catering basis where you bring your own supplies and the staff will prepare everything, or on a fully-catered basis with the option of open land cruisers and guides to do all the work.

While there is much to be said for wild camping and being self-sufficient in this beautiful country, there is also a lot to be said for enjoying some luxury, witnessing one of the world's most famous spectacles and making memories that will last a lifetime. www.eastafricasafariventures.com.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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A MID-LIFE CRISIS A family emerges from their villa to enjoy a hotel breakfast under swaying palms but dad Martin is missing. He booked a sunrise session of stand up paddle boarding at 7:00 am but is still nowhere to be seen.

TEXT: FRANCES WOODHAMS “Where’s dad?” asks little Johnny, “I thought he was going to build a sandcastle with me.”

“Sorry love,” says Mum. “He might not have time. he’s got sea kayaking this morning, followed by skydiving this afternoon.”

Dad finally appears, hobbling up the pathway looking a little overheated.

“How was it?” asks mum, Lucy, “and what’s wrong with your foot?”

“Great,” Martin says with a tight smile.

“Loved the paddle boarding. Just slipped and stepped on some coral, that’s all.”

“I thought that you were meant to be standing on the board?”

“Yes,” Martin mumbles, grabbing a bread roll, “but turns out that it’s trickier than it looks.”

Martin’s wife, Lucy, has grown used to the fact that her husband likes to make the most of every minute of his holidays.

Martin is approaching 50. She puts it down to a mid-life crisis.

Kite surfing yesterday had not been an unqualified success. Martin spent some early sessions mastering how to fly the kite while safely grounded on the beach but yesterday was his first foray into the water.

Martin invited the whole family to admire his new found skills only for them to have to witness him face planting into the sea at painfully regular intervals.

Exhausted but apparently undeterred after his three-hour lesson, he emerged

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from the sea with a swagger, wearing a helmet and unflattering life vest (which somehow hooked up his T-shirt to reveal a generous midriff). Lucy spotted the young and pretty Australian instructor and understood everything, but when Martin finally reached her, Lucy didn’t hold back in telling him that his swimming shorts had slipped and were showing off a fair share of his bum. When Martin returned to the hotel he nearly fell asleep into his soup, then passed out at 9:00 pm.

“It’s as if Daddy’s not really on holiday with us,” Martin’s daughter whines as Mum nods resignedly.

Skydiving next and Martin’s wife is not happy. Flapping about in shallow water over the reef is one thing, but jumping out of planes could be classed as life threatening. The children attend the skydiving briefing with dad. The skydive team comprises an oldish Scandinavian guy with a young American sidekick, both faces wizened by the sun and brimming with confidence. Johnny thinks that he sees fear in his dad’s eyes as the harness is being fitted.

“Are you really going to do this, Dad?” he asks.

Martin’s back straightens. “Yeah, sure thing, son,” he says, slapping his son’s back with forced bravado. Mum rolls her eyes then she and the kids wave off Dad as he disappears into the back of a minibus, airport bound.

It’s a long wait on the beach spent gazing at a clear blue sky, watching for tiny specks. There’s high excitement at the sight of a plane then a painfully long pause as nothing much happens. Finally, little Johnny shrieks, “I can see Dad! I can see him!”

A parachute pops open and then another one. Lucy feels a flood of relief, willing her husband safely back down to earth.

The parachute grows larger and soon it’s possible to make out Martin strapped to the chest of the Scandinavian instructor.

The family wave excitedly as the unlikely couple plummet towards the sand to land in a tumbling heap.

“Martin, are you okay?” Lucy asks. “Was it wonderful?”

Her husband’s sky goggles are askew and he looks decidedly ill. Anders, the instructor, says the flight was 100% fantastic. “Martin here was a superstar.”

Martin smiles weakly and tries to stand but staggers as he tries to find his balance.

“Just a spot of nausea,” he says. “It’s nothing.”

As the sun goes down that evening, Martin has at last regained his usual colour. He and his wife enjoy a cocktail on a terrace overlooking the sea.

“So what’s on the itinerary for tomorrow?”

Lucy asks.

“I think that I might just stay here,” says Martin. “Spend some time with the kids.”

Lucy squeezes his hand. “I think that would be a good idea,” she says.

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Stay 4 nights pay 3 nights Ksh. 35,500 per adult sharing & Ksh. 7,100 per child Rate includes: 3-4 nights’ accommodation in a Medina Suite/Deluxe on Bed and Breakfast Extra night (5th) at Ksh. 11,850 per adult sharing and Ksh. 5,925 per child Single supplement Ksh. 9,500 per person per night Child rate applicable to kids above 3 and below 12 years of age Shared airport transfers (From Malindi Airport – Maximum 5 pax)

Extras: 15% off selected Sakina Ocean Spa treatments 20% off Nemo’s Cave (Kids’ Club) charges (Maximum of 5 kids per session on first come first served basis) Non-motorised watersports Commissionable to agents at 10% 46

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+254 (0) 718-152-999 || reservations@medinapalms.com www.medinapalms.com