Nomad 030 - Go List

ISSUE 30. DECEMBER/JANUARY 2021. FREE COPY

DISCOVER

EXPLORE

Places to explore 2021

GO-LIST ALSO:

- THE WILD, WILD BORANA - UNTAMED UGANDA - JOURNEY TO THE JADE SEA - CONSERVATION AT SOLIO

EXPERIENCE

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EXPERIENCE

Paperbags Limited Carrying Kenya for over 50 years

1 Gil Gil Road, off Enterprise Road || sales@paperbagsltd.co.ke || www.paperbagsltd.co.ke

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EDITOR’S NOTE

OH, TO BE A DOG CHASING DIK-DIKS THROUGH THE BUSHES!

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here comes a point in every traveler’s life where you look around and think, “I wish I was a dog”.

Camp dogs always seem to have the most carefree of existences, unperturbed by worries such as business, bills or deadlines. They get to meet different guests who for the most part always want to shower them with love and affection. I mean...who made it socially unacceptable for humans to roll around on the carpet and demand that their bellies be rubbed?

At Borana Conservancy, while heading on the horseback safari highlighted in our main feature (page 16), we were accompanied by four dogs who I was told had a very important job to do. Good, I thought. If they actually had to work for their supper, I suppose that somewhat balanced the scales.

The important job, I came to learn, was to remove dead birds along the trail, because these have been known to spook the horses. Now why on earth would a horse be spooked by a dead bird? But that aside, the excursion confirmed my theories about dogs. They mostly just chased the dik-diks through the bushes, and when the trainer gave them a stern talking to, they circled back sheepishly and tried to stick to their job. They barked their lungs out when they spotted something in the distance and no one batted an eye, and yet it is I who got the weird looks when I screamed after spotting a giraffe while on horseback. If anything, of us two, it is the dog that should have been reproached for not having learned to contain their excitement by then.

Wendy Watta @WattaOnTheGo

When we came across muddy puddles, too, there was no hesitation...they flopped in belly-first and happily splashed around before wading out, shaking the excess water off and rejoining the entourage. This seemed like an activity I would very much enjoy as well. Again, who made it socially unacceptable for humans to jump into muddy puddles, and where can I unsubscribe, because this existence plan is just not working for me anymore.

From the Nomad team, we hope you have a lovely December, and while you’re at it, may this issue give you endless ideas for properties and activities to try in 2021. Meanwhile, as you enjoy the holidays, remember to stop every now and then to sniff the flowers for no apparent reason, splash about in a pool of water and go running through the bushes every now and then.

NOMAD ISSUE 30 · DEC-JAN 20/21· PUBLISHED BY PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DIRECTORS BEN PETERSON, JAN VAN DER DOES DE WILLEBOIS, MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES MANAGER VANESSA WANJIKU, ESTHER NAMUILA DIGITAL FAITH KANJA CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, MAURICE SCHUTGENS, KARI MUTU, DENNIS MUGAA, JOE WAHOME, AMI DOSHI SHAH, MILLER GIBONS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS ANDREW CAMPBELL, TALISA LANOE, BRIAN SIAMBI MARKETING & OPERATIONS CAROLINE RUBIRO SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0716 497 095 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMAD.AFRICA

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020

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CONTENTS 16

THE WILD, WILD BORANA From horse riding with giraffes to rhino tracking on foot, game drives, bush walks and more, Borana Conservancy offers a range of unique ways to encounter wildlife and the wilderness.

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EXPERIENCE

ON THE COVER BORANA LODGE

by Brian Siambi

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In this issue 8. TOP SHOTS Stunning shots and tips from two photographers whose work we’re loving right now.

12. NEWS Kenya named Africa’s leading tourist destination, Purple Nomad launches custom publishing, and other updates.

FEATURES 20. SPOTLIGHT ON LENGISHU HOUSE The most expensive accommodation we’ve ever stayed in, after you hear about its splendour, you’ll be scrambling to go.

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24. ROAD TRIPPING THE COASTLINE From lounging on the beach one day to spotting wildlife at Tsavo East the next, here are some things to do along the way

26. HOT LIST From Editor’s and reader’s picks to safari spas, find a range of properties to add to your ‘go list’ for 2021.

32. THE SAFARI SERIES With affordable rates and unique selfdrive vintage Land Rovers, The Safari Series is the perfect getaway for young, fun and adventurous travelers

36. JOURNEY TO THE JADE SEA A convoy of 56 cars leaves Nairobi for Eliye Springs for an adventure filled with breathtaking scenery, Turkana pyramids, camaraderie and a cheekily dubbed ‘disco vumbi’

REGULARS 12. KENYAN TRAVELER Dennis Mugaa vividly takes us on a walk down Bangkok’s floating market.

14. GLOBETROTTERS We speak to Kenyan adventurers creating space for themselves in the outdoors and inspiring more people to hit the road with signature organized trips.

40. UNTAMED UGANDA Home to some of the most beautiful wild places left on this planet, a friendly easygoing population and tasty coffee, Uganda is undoubtedly one of Africa’s most exciting destinations.

42. GREAT HOTELS With her husband and two sons, Ami Doshi Shah sets off to Solio Game Reserve for a weekend filled with conservation, nature and luxury.

46. NOTES FROM THE BUSH Tens of thousands of pelicans roosting, splashing about and chorusing at Lake Natron become the subject of an impromptu home-schooling lesson.

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TOP SHOTS

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Andrew Campbell Instagram @acsafaris How did you get this shot?

Golden light drenched the plains as a white rhino perfectly posed directly in front of Mt Kenya. My settings were F8 at 1/320 sec with ISO 1000. My camera was a Nikon D850 with a 200 to 400mm lens, and I took the photo at 250mm.

Any tip for budding photographers?

A famous photographer once gave me some great advice: “Set to F8 and don’t be late”.

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TOP SHOTS

Talisa Lanoe @talisalanoe How did you get this shot?

I captured this shot at 7:40am on the Dji Mavic pro 2. My settings were F2.8, because I like the dreamy feel you get with a low aperture on landscape shots, a 1/3,200 shutter speed which is fast enough to capture wildlife without motion blur, and ISO 100.

Any tips for capturing different perspectives?

The composition of your images has a significant effect on the perspective. Play around with lenses to capture a close up, portrait, long shot or even wide angle landscape. Try different angles (get low down or up high) to emphasize feelings and emotions in your shot and capture different views. You can also use perspective to create depth, e.g by adding a subject in the foreground or using a natural frame for the shot. Finally, try something unique such as capturing reflections.

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LIVE THE GOOD LIFE Vipingo Ridge is a place like no other.

Here you’ll find beautiful open space, fresh air, family activities and true peace of mind. And with two flights to our private airstrip from Nairobi every single day, paradise is closer than you think.

So whether you want to join us for a holiday or build your dream home, we welcome you to take your place among this serene community perched high above the Kenyan coastline.

vipingoridge.com

For bookings, please email reservations@vipingoridge.com or call +254 700 337 489 For real estate opportunities, email sales@vipingoridge.com or call +254 734 611 009 vipingo.ridge

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vipingoridge

NEWS & EVENTS

KENYA NAMED AFRICA’S LEADING TOURIST DESTINATION Kenya was named Africa’s leading tourist destination in 2020 by the World Travel Awards which recognizes and rewards excellence in travel and tourism.Having seen a steady increase in its travel and tourism sector over the last decade, Kenya’s tourism and travel sector contributed at least 3.7% to the country’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) in 2016 and around 6% in 2017.

Among other categories, KICC ranked the top spot as Africa’s Leading Meetings & Conference Centre, Nairobi was named Africa’s Leading Business Travel Destination, The Kenya Tourism Board won Africa’s Leading Tourist Board while Destination Kenya won Africa's Leading Destination Management Company 2020.

In hospitality, Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club won the title of Africa’s Leading Hotel, Aberdare Country Club won Africa’s Leading Green Hotel while Baobab Beach Resort & Spa won Africa’s leading Family Resort. Kenya Airways on the other hand picked up both Africa’s Leading Airline - Business Class and Africa’s Leading Airline - Economy Class. Kenya Tourism Board (KTB) Chairman Jimi Kariuki lauded the win as a big motivator to Kenya’s tourism industry which has suffered from the effects of Covid-19.

REVAMPED NAIROBI-NANYUKI RAILWAY RESUMES OPERATIONS The Nairobi-Nanyuki railway has been derelict and overgrown with bushes for a few decades now. On 11th December, Kenya Railways resumed commercial passenger services on the route. With a capacity of 1,600 passengers, the trip takes three hours and price per person is Ksh 200 on the second class coaches. This is projected to boost tourism in the Mt Kenya region.

KENYA LAUNCHES COAST BRAND IDENTITY TO SHOWCASE TOURISM Kenya's tourism marketers launched tourism brand identity for the coastal region as part of efforts to revive the sector which has slumped due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The launch saw the unveiling of the brand representing the coast and its various sub-brands, specifically Mombasa, Lamu, Malindi, Watamu, Diani, Tsavo and Tana River.

Supported by the Kenya Coast Working Group, the rebrand is meant to drive local and international interest in this circuit while making it clear that there is more to the region than just sandy beaches. These sub-brands will now market and reposition their destinations, each highlighting its unique product offerings to ensure that the destinations remain top of mind once travel fully resumes.

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NEWS & EVENTS

TURKANA CENTRAL ISLAND TOUR Join an epic overland adventure to Turkana from 12th December this year to 2nd Jan 2021.

Highlights will include Eldoret, Kitale (Saiwa Swamp National Park), Lodwar, Central Island National Park, Lake Turkana and Eliye Springs.

Price includes round trip transportation, boat rides, all park fees, camping at Central Island and more.

Organized by Xtrym Adventures, tickets cost Ksh 37,500 and are available on www.ticketsasa.com

COMEDY SHOW IN THE WILD The team at the Improv comedy show, Because You Said So, have organized an out of town treat for their fans. The event will be at Kilima Safari Camp Amboseli from 11th to 13th December. Package includes unlimited game drives, accommodation on full-board basis, entry to the comedy show, park entry fees, a maasai village tour, transport and more. Prices start at Ksh 34,000. Tickets available on www.ticketsasa.com

FORT JESUS MOMBASA ENCHANTING EXPERIENCE If you live, travel or are simply passing through Mombasa, make sure you venture out on an evening between Thursday to Sunday, and witness the truly unforgettable- “The Enchanting Coastal Experience� at The Fort Jesus. Experience being transported back in time to the 15th Century as you immerse yourself in the sights, people, sounds and more, right through to the present day. Suitable for all ages, the 40 multimedia show will be a memorable affair for history buffs, complete with 3D projection mapping, life-like holograms, amazing lasers, fire, water and designer fireworks. Tickets cost Ksh 1,500. To buy, visit www.fortjesusmombasa.com

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Floating through Bangkok Dennis Mugaa goes on a walk down Bangkok's floating market PHOTOGRAPHS: STEFANO ALEMANI A, JOSHUA RAWSON HARRIS, JACK-HUNTER, COURTESY UNSPLASH

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GLOBETROTTER

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n the hotel lobby, my sister and I walk towards the concierge and ask him to translate for us, into Thai script, the names of places we want to go to. I feel helpless at this, this lack of knowing Thai with such absoluteness. Afterwards, he gives us a hotel brochure to use as a marker in case we get lost.

The valet hails us a taxi and we get in. It’s our last day in Bangkok - our flight leaves in the evening. We have been in

Thailand for eight days, four of which were spent in Pattaya where we watched a burlesque show, parasailed and walked down shops beside a beach. Yesterday, on a night cruise along Chao Phraya River, we saw The Grand Palace lit up in yellow and gold. “You haven’t seen anything,” our guide said of our trip. He told us we needed to come back during the Chinese New Year or for Songkran, the water festival, where people splash water on each other to cleanse themselves as a sign of good things to come.

We are going to Taling Chan Floating Market. The streets narrow the farther along we go and as we approach the market, I see a monk, dressed in an orange robe boarding a bus. The taxi stops, we pay the driver and leave. It strikes me that he hasn’t said a single word to us the whole way. We are met by several stalls. The ones closer to the entrance sell clothes and trinkets. This early, only a few people are walking around and we are the only black people for miles. The stalls are on either side of what feels like an alley. The ceiling above us is a translucent green, and when light pours through, it feels like we are walking in a green filter. My sister is excited: she takes photographs of everything. We pass through stalls selling fruits, vegetables and flowers. A woman smiles at me when she sees me look at her bonsai plants. As we move deeper into the market, we find more clothes, hats, sandals and bags. There’s a pier where the market meets the river. Here the sellers are in their boats, their wares packed inside. Some shelter from the sun underneath colourful stall umbrellas. The pier has a restaurant on the left side and I watch as a woman removes prawns from a cooking pot. Standing on the pier, we seem to float, each step we take, we wobble.

We decide to take a boat ride tour on offer. We pay and wait. We walk into a pavilion where an orchestra performs; in one corner, a barber gives free haircuts.

The orchestra plays Thai classical music.

We sit and watch. An old woman plays a xylophone, behind her a man plays another xylophone shaped like a boat. A child, a girl with hair held by pink rubber bands, enters. She points to the old man playing the flute and smiles at him. As she walks towards him, her mother rushes out and pulls her away.

It’s eleven and our boat has arrived.

Its side is coloured in lines of green, yellow, blue and red. There are twelve of us. My sister and I sit behind a couple with large backpacks. When the boat moves along the river, the green water parts in white arcs. There are houses on either side of the riverbank. The houses are supported by pillars rising from the

water. Most of them are quaint and they have potted flowers and plants on the side which faces the river. On the way, we slow down to feed fish with bread. “Bangkok is sinking,” our guide told us on our first day here. Now, I wonder what will happen to all these houses if it does do so. If every memory of them will be completely erased.

Halfway, we stop by a small temple for a few minutes and then get back to the floating market. The market is now noisy, bursting with activity. It smells of cinnamon and garlic. People crowd around stalls negotiating prices. I buy a beautiful scarf for a friend. It’s purple and has elephant embroidery. My sister buys one for our mother who is asleep in the hotel.

We decide to visit one more temple: Wat Arun. The sun is scorching when we arrive. We are met by a line of worshippers burning incense in one pavilion. Monks are walking around everywhere. We walk towards the central prang, a tall spire that reaches out to the sky in colourful porcelain. Here, we join a line of tourists and pay the entrance fee. We walk around it, marvelling at its height, at the richly carved designs. I take a photograph of my sister. In this picture she is smiling, her light brown afro blends with the designs behind her, she’s holding a latte and above her are the figures of soldiers who seem to be holding up the prang. In another pavilion we see a statue of a reclining Buddha, worshippers bring food and leave it here. As we walk to leave, we find a monk standing in a stall.

He asks me if I want to pray.

“Yes,” I reply, although I haven’t prayed in years.

My sister decides not to. First, I donate to the temple. He asks me to follow him.

“What day born?” he asks.

“Tuesday.”

He gives me incense sticks wrapped by a pink cotton paper. Depicted on the paper is the mythology god of Tuesday riding on a bull holding a sword. Swirls of air emanate from the god and the bull. The monk wants to give me instructions, but his English fails him, and I cannot understand Thai.

“He is saying you should take off your shoes,” a woman behind me says. I do so.

“What’s your religion?” she asks.

“I don’t have one.”

She’s the first person I’ve met who is not surprised when I tell her this. Instead, she translates the monk’s instructions. I burn the incense sticks on a candle and plant them into the Tuesday god vase.

“When you pray, ask for anything you want.”

I walk to the carpet. The monk asks me to step back a little. Someone kneels next to me. Incense burns, rising sweetly to my nose. I hold the paper between my hands, bow slightly, and pray.

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KENYAN TRAVELLERS

We speak to Kenyan adventurers creating space for themselves in the outdoors and inspiring more people to hit the road by organizing trips.

Text: Kari Mutu

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE CLUBS

TURN UP AT SOME AMAZING PLACES

Turnup Travel is turning the travel industry on its head with innovative trips to some of Kenya’s best kept secrets. Their selection of adventurous trips are linked to concepts such as culture, history, environment, events and festivals. Co-founder Muthuri Kinyamu says they have pioneered a new way to help people “rediscover the beauty of Africa by providing themed experiences for new age travellers”.

The little-visited Chalbi Desert in Northern Kenya is one of their most popular tours.

Valentine’s weekend getaway to Hell’s Gate National Park at Koroga Festival earlier this year was well received. Other excursions have taken travellers to Maragoli Hills, Wasini Island, Kit Mikayi and Ngurunit Rock Slides. The hottest new trend is a work-cation trip to gorgeous Diani, specially tailored for the overloaded professional needing peace, quiet and a perfect setting to work and relax. A corporate group went exploring the Aberdare Range and contributed to conservation by planting 1,000 trees.

Coming up in December 2020 is a Chalbi Desert road trip passing through Marsabit Park, Turkana wind farm and an El Molo village, as well as the Rusinga Cultural Festival at Lake Victoria that explores Abasuba arts, cuisine, culture and music.

LET’S DRIFT AWAY

Drift off the beaten path to some of the most breath-taking places, getting close to nature on foot. Let’s Drift is all about “being curious and taking people to new, unventured places,” says cofounder and head guide Alex Kamau. Their choice of guided ‘drifts’ are stunning locations within easy reach from Nairobi – lush forests, waterfalls, the great escarpment, hills and rock caves.

For longer getaways, try a three-day hike from Ngong Hills to Lake Naivasha, a 120km expedition with camping and catering provided by the team. Or a buddies’ weekend away in Gatamaiyu, Kiambu, including bonfires, barbeques, badminton and ‘Duff Mpararo’ to liven up the bonding. The family-friendly treks to Tigoni, Riabai or KEFRI are shorter, scenic and with a less technical approach so different ages can hike without much struggle. Beginner treks require little more than a backpack, comfortable clothing, good sneakers, drinking water and snacks.

For just Ksh 1,000 per month, enjoy as many ‘freemium’ trips as you wish, or sign up on a ‘per drift’ basis.

Coming up in December is a 6-day hiking trip to Gatamaiyu, that includes bush crafts, swimming, games and more.

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KENYAN TRAVELLERS

MOTORBIKING ACROSS THE SAVANNAH

Speed, adventure and wilderness come together in a motorcycle safari through some of the most stunning wilderness areas. The best thing about a motorbike trip is “the freedom of driving oneself on roads and off the beaten track, close to wildlife,” says Motorbike Safaris founder, Fred Poincon.

The South-Eastern Kenya trip that passes the foothills of iconic Kilimanjaro is the most popular itinerary. A number of scheduled tours coming up in 2021 will explore the Great Rift Valley, Masai Mara and Northern Tanzania for 7 or 8 days. Motorbike Safaris can also tailor-make an adventure depending on your time, budget and the areas of East Africa that you would like to see.

You can rent one of their off-road motorcycles or bring your own. Each trip is accompanied by a crew of mechanics, a medic, cook, 4WD Land Cruiser for safari support plus accommodation and camping gear. Accommodation is usually camping with catering by the team or in a charming lodge.

LONG DISTANCE CYCLING WITH THE KINGS

Want to spin some wheels and lose weight in the process? Put on your tight shorts, helmet and cool sunglasses and try long distance cycling.

George and Ben Asin founded Spin Kings Kenya two years ago, prompted by Ben’s habit of borrowing his brother’s bike to go visit his sweetheart. The goal of the group is to highlight road safety among cyclists, but it has become popular for fun, keeping fit and making short getaways into the countryside.

Join one of their weekend rides and get to know other cycling enthusiasts, with separate trips organised for beginners and elite cyclists. Some of the long-distance trips have toured Kajiado, Mombasa and Kisumu, and these require high quality bikes to sustain the long miles. Families with children can take short tours within Nairobi. In November, second lady Rachel Ruto joined one of their trips as founder of the cycling club called Mama Cycling.

BUSH ROVING IN A 4X4

Bundu Rovers Club takes expeditions all over Kenya and beyond “powered by the best 4X4 machines ever made.” And wherever nightfall finds you, pitch your tents and sleep under the stars.

Members drive their own 4X4 cars but they have to be offroad worthy. There's a mandatory list of vehicle accessories and recovery gear, and you may need to modify your wheels to bash around in the bush. The investment is worth it to access some of the most picturesque locations.

They have taken on the Aberdare Mountains, South Coast, Shimba Hills, Lake Jipe and gone gorilla trekking in Rwanda.

The Jade Sea safari to Lake Turkana in October 2020 was one of their most memorable. For this trip, club member Agnes Mwangi switched her Land Rover Defender for a remodelled Ford Transit, an all-wheel light commercial vehicle. “It was brought from the UK, and the interior woodwork build was done locally,” said Agnes. Resembling a camper vehicle, it has a kitchenette, sleeping area, mini bathroom, day bench and awning. “It is kitted with a solar system to run the fridge and water pump,” she says.

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GO-LIST

THE WILD, WILD

BORANA

From horse riding with giraffes to rhino tracking on foot, game drives, bush walks and more, Borana Conservancy offers a range of unique ways to encounter wildlife. Itching for adventure, Wendy Watta tries it all.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI

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MAIN FEATURE

S

Pride Rock

tanding on top of Pride Rock looking down at the endless carpet of green, I am under the brief happy delusion that I am queen. This rock is the actual inspiration for The Lion King movies, and I still vividly recall that scene where Rafiki holds up a baby Simba into the air like a priced trophy, as the animals gather below this lofty vantage point. “Naaaaants ingonyama bagithi baba!” starts the popular Circle of Life song. No, really, we’re playing it on someone’s phone, the sound drowning out in the brisk wind.

To research the 1994 The Lion King film, the Disney animation team visited Borana for a safari. For the 2019 remake, they stayed at Borana Lodge for 10 days, and scenery from the conservancy can be seen in the background. Today, though, it’s popular for sundowners and proposals, and can be booked for you by whichever of the lodges you’re staying at. I sit down next to a lizard as Nissa from Lengishu House passes around a tin of crackers.

It darts behind a stone. Nissa unzips the bag with drinks and asks if I’d perhaps fancy some wine. Ah, I do so love an open minibar in the bush...

Horse Riding With Giraffes

I am paired with Joker, a 26 year old well-groomed dark thoroughbred stallion.

He is a former polo horse and seems to be patient and well-tempered. There are actually two sets of stables at Borana, and the other has 20 horses and caters to more experienced riders. At both, there is a rider weight limit of 95kg. I hop on the comfortable English Wintec saddle and with one guide leading the way and the other trailing behind, we set off just as the last beam of sunrise lingers over the horizon As we ride, I like to imagine that I’m on my way to King’s Landing. My Game of Thrones dreams are playing out in real life, minus the gory bloodshed. I say something about being on ‘neigh-cation’, and the team threatens to never speak to me again. We are accompanied by three dogs who run ahead on the trail to remove birds which can spook the horses, but mostly, it seems like they’ve come along for the sheer fun of jumping into puddles and chasing dik diks through the grass.

Most of the time, the horses walk, but intent on not being left behind, Joker sometimes breaks into a canter, and it is totally exhilarating. We get so close to

reticulated giraffes that we’re practically eye to eye, and I can almost trace out the patterns on their skin. I wonder if they think I’m a centaur. I quite like the perspective of being part of the wild rather than just a spectator. When we come across zebras, they ride with us for a few seconds before breaking off. I feel like my safari experience has peaked. How will I ever be content with anything less?

We ride up and down the hills, over rocks and grass and across a stream, until my leg cramps up two hours later. By then, we’re already back at the stables.

Rhino Tracking

I draw back the curtains to see a dreary thick quilt of clouds drawn over the plains.

Part of me wishes that it would rain so much harder, an entire avalanche of rain, if ever, that the rhino tracking planned for the morning is canceled. Besides, I’ve done it twice already. But, ten minutes later, I’m in the Land Cruiser with the Maasai comforter tightly wrapped around me, watching rain droplets hit the windshield. The car veers from side to side and the tyres slip over the mud, as our skilled driver tries to manoeuvre it to a dryer patch of road. A thick swad of mud lands squarely on my forearm. When I rub it, it blends in like the perfect shade of concealer.

“I think I’ll go either way, “ says Jan. “I’ve come too far not to go tracking!”

Now why does he have to be so sensible?

A decision is made...I guess I’ll go too, because I’m competitive and refuse to be left behind. Moments later we’re at the barracks where a few rangers who have been out in the field all night are huddled chatting over hot tea. Peterson, who's assigned to our team, is way too chipper for someone who was on watch in the rain all night with nothing but a poncho, apparently. We also pick up two scouts then begin a light walk downhill, with nothing to see for miles but vast green fields rolling and undulating in all directions. I feel like I’m inside a painting.

As we walk, we learn a bit about the rhinos and history of the conservancy. In 2013, 21 black rhinos were reintroduced into the area having disappeared over 50 years ago. The fence between Borana and the neighbouring Lewa conservancy was also taken out, resulting in a shared 94,000acre sanctuary where rhinos can wander back and forth as they please. At 106 black and 98 white rhinos today, the population is certainly thriving. Given the sheer size of Borana, it is divided into eight zones for easy management by the scouts; we’re walking through zone one.

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GO-LIST

I wince as I wade into the water which looked deceptively warm but I'm convinced is actually just below freezing point. I swim to the edge then look out onto hyena valley dam in the distance to see a large herd of elephants intent on elephant business. As if on cue, a waiter brings me fresh juice. To quote the very wise sir, Drake, ‘life is good’.

Next, we come to an isikuti martina berry bush where the scouts pluck a few and ask us to taste. This is what they snack on while in the fields. Thereafter, they follow honeyguide birds to another bush where we find a large honeycomb. This is thrilling, like being on an episode of Running Wild with Bear Grylls.

Built in 1993, the eco-lodge is constructed into a hillside, and you should naturally expect spectacular views. There are eight cottages built with rock and cedar, and thatched with makuti.

Following delightful meals at the main lodge which has the bar dining and living rooms, I would heave up the hilly terrain back to our cottage. After late afternoons spent driving around in search of wildlife, we would come back to the comfort of a fireplace, hot tea and the smiles of the staff. Sometimes we sat on the terrace to enjoy the view, but mostly hung around the pool-with-a-view.

Two hours later, trudging up yet another hill with sneakers made all the heavier by the sticky black cotton mud, I am panting a few paces behind Peterson who’s barely broken a sweat. We haven’t spotted a rhino yet. These guys could go on for hours, but like sprinters passed out at the finish line, I physically can’t go any further. If anything, I idly wonder if their job description includes carrying completely wiped out guests back to the Land Cruiser.

The conservancy

Borana is a whopping 32,000 acres. If I owned that much land, I would start my own kingdom and be the ‘Queen in the North’.

When we meet up with Michael Dyer - whose family owns the property - for sundowners on a sun-bleached hill, he seems far more laid back than one would think. We sit on camp chairs looking out onto the conservancy; the land sprawls on and on, as though infinite. Living in Nairobi where a new apartment always seems to be springing up, this place looks so empty...like maybe this is what the entire earth will look like after the rapture.

Our game drives are very eventful. We watch as a lion stalks through the dewy grass. It doesn't even seem to be hiding, but rather, steering a herd of zebras closer to the rest of the pride.

Fortunately, if you’re on the zebra’s side, the lion’s strategy fails.

Later in the evening, we see 17 lions and follow them for a while.

There are no other vehicles in sight. They race and playfight, and the younger cubs deceptively look like cuddly little cats that you would want to pet. Borana had a successful lion breeding program in 2017, and if our trip is anything to go by, you’re almost guaranteed to spot them here.

A kori bustard, the heaviest African bird of flight, looks at us indifferently. For such a tiny bird, the isabelline wheatear has such a hefty name. The colourful lilac breasted roller is always a joy to see. We come across another pride of lions, this time eight. When the guinea fowl start to cackle, the lions move on. Apparently, if you’re walking in the bush and hear a guinea fowl making a lot of noise, it indicates the presence of leopards or lions. Since there’s a government road passing through Borana on the way to Mukogodo Forest, and some passengers pass by on foot or motorbikes, I wonder if they actually know about the guinea fowls.

There are five different kinds of accommodation at Borana Conservancy, and each pays US$100,000 a year for conservation. It has been accredited as a centre of excellence in sustainability by the Long Run, one of the world’s largest sustainable development initiatives setting standards for naturebased tourism. Members collectively conserve over 21-million acres of biodiversity and touch the lives of over 750,000 people

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Borana Lodge

“This is the marking territory of a black rhino, which is a browser. You can tell because these sticks are snapped at 45 degrees,” says Peterson, pointing to what looks to me like nothing but a mound of dirt that was perhaps the scene of a huge fight of titan proportions. “ If it was a white rhino, you would mostly find grass,”

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Other activities include guided bush walks, mountain biking in the wild, fishing, rock climbing and scenic flights. We also enjoyed being shown around Waitabit Farm, the largest permaculture project in East Africa, managed by the very passionate and innovative Llewellyn Dyer. A lot of the fresh food at the lodges are sourced from the farm.

Resident rates start at Ksh 20,000 per adult sharing on full board and include a range of activities. Inquiries via bookings@borana.co.ke

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We get so close to reticulated giraffes that we’re practically eye to eye, and I can almost trace out the patterns on their skin. I wonder if they think I’m a centaur. I quite like the perspective of being part of the wild rather than just a spectator.

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LENGISHU HOUSE

I love spaces that deftly merge family heirlooms for that ultra personalized touch, with objets d’art collected from different countries and decades, writes Wendy Watta. When it comes to the luxury Lengishu House, the most expensive accommodation we’ve ever stayed in, after you hear about it, you’ll be scrambling to go with your group.

PHOTOGRAPHS: STEVIE MANN, BACKDROP PRODUCTION, JAMES LEWIN

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S

et high on a hill with Eastfacing rooms and floor to ceiling sliding glass doors allowing for magical sunrises and spectacular views of the sprawling Borana Conservancy is a stately home that takes inspiration from its location.

Lengishu House has six beautifully appointed bedrooms within four cottages set separately from the main house.

It is hard to pick a favourite spot, but I love the main house with its stone floors and high vaulted ceiling with eucalyptus beams; it is fondly dubbed a cathedral ceiling. The room is massive, and if not properly outfitted, would have run the risk of looking empty. Firstly, the use of adobe walls as opposed to a pale colour was an apt choice as it is warming and draws the space in. Then there’s the curatorial approach to the multilayered decor. I love spaces that merge family heirlooms for that ultra personalized touch, with stuff collected from different countries and decades. It is for this reason that while Lengishu was officially opened in June 2019 having taken three years to build, it has the surprising effect of feeling like an elegant home that’s been enjoyed and lived in for decades.

I ask Minnie MacHale, who owns Lengishu with her husband Joe, about a few pieces in the main house that draw my eye. As you walk into the front entrance hall and turn left into big wide steps, there are two Burmese wall hangings on either side. Minnie found them on the floor in the back of a little house-on-stilts in Inle Lake in Northern Myanmar. They were old and covered in goodness knows what, but the colours were so vivid and artistry striking that she bought and later cleaned them up herself. There is a Swahili chest which her grandfather brought back from Zanzibar to the North of Scotland in 1928 when he was the British Naval Commander-in-Chief, Indian Ocean. As children, Minnie says it was their dressing up box, but it has since found its way to Laikipia. Her grandfather’s knee-high tan leather hunting boots from 1910 are now part of the décor, found by the doorway. During the excavation of the site, she saw a large boulder which she liked and decided to make it one of the centerpieces.

Furniture is used to create separate spaces in this room which divides into an upper formal sitting room, dining area with a small bar, and a relaxed lower lounging area. There are two life-sized cast iron sculptures holding up torches (they are fitted as real gas lamps) bordering the steps going down from one level to the next. From the corner of my eye, I keep thinking there is somebody else in the room. They were cast in North America and Minnie bought them late one night from an art collector in London who was selling his entire collection from the 60s.

The walls are given a pleasant lift by a large blue Italian linen tapestry which compliments the red oriental rug and adds a touch of old fashioned opulence.

Red, which stands out amidst the muted tones throughout, is an ode to the Maasai neighbours. With everyone off in their individual cottages, this was the space where we came together for breakfast and dinner, then to hang out playing a board game, or pour a drink from the bar and snuggle up by the fireplace to chat late into the night.

The scheme feels organic and earthy, seamlessly blending into the environment.

Naturally occurring rocks were excavated to create the flat foundations where the buildings stand. The woods are sustainable. The thatching is makuti with the roof coming just a little over the windows to provide shade. Brightly coloured flowers in full bloom are dotted throughout the property. The garden is indigenous and the landscaping was done

by Ruth Horsey who’s based in Timau.

The house runs on solar and there’s a greywater recycling system which sends the water back to the garden. Luxury

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aside, there is a sense of being rooted in nature, the property being the thoughtful brainchild of Ben Jackson, the builder, Emma Campbell, the project manager, and Minnie, a client with a sharp instinct and who was actively involved in the process.

For their efforts and focus on sustainability, Lengishu House was recently elected as a member of the prestigious The Long Run organisation.

From friends and families to couples, there’s an ideal cottage for everyone. The decor for each may be individual but the beds were made from old recycled wooden dhows and fence posts by local tradesmen in Nairobi. My spacious room has all the trappings expected of a high end holiday home complete with a woodburning stove for cooler evenings, and the outdoor terrace looking out onto Borana Conservancy is perfect for relaxation. Alternatively, if wallowing is more your speed then the freestanding rich copper bath with glorious views is the bateau for you. Trust me, I discovered that I’m better at this than elephants. Back from dinner? light a candle, play some jazz and relax. Raining in the morning, quick hot bath before breakfast.

In the middle of the day just because? pour a glass of wine and have a bath while reading a magazine. The cottage also had a kitchen and living area where West African artifacts were propped above the fireplace mantel.

Despite the light trickle of rain, the u-shaped pool was too tempting to pass up. An afternoon was spent swimming its length then pottering to the poolhouse where chef Sam would whip up delicious dishes using fresh ingredients from their little shamba.

For a property of this calibre, the service is exactly what one would expect. Top notch. I was really impressed, too, that they actually did research on a very specific diet I was on, and when it was meal time, not only did they accommodate me, they did so with a bang.

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I already miss the study at the house, a cozy nook where the writer in me was content to while away the hours in. It’s the little bits and bobs that make it special. A Scottish soldier hat, that painting of a Maasai girl, a tip box which was Minnie’s grandfather’s post box, a beautiful dunbar tartan (their Scottish family heritage) pillow propped on the most comfortable of sofas, the fresh flowers, and the books. Oh, the books. In overhead shelves, in baskets, on side tables. I pick up a copy of Little Fires Everywhere by Celeste Ng and start to pore over it.

Rates and activities

At $9500 for up to six guests in the high season (non resident rates) and a current resident rate of Ksh 500,000 for up to 12 guests, Lengishu House is undoubtedly the most expensive place I’ve ever stayed in. Offered on an exclusive-use basis, heck, even President Kenyatta has stayed here and he reportedly loved it, as did our team. When you hear that the rates can include full board accommodation, local airstrip transfers, alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks, laundry and wifi, activities on Borana Conservancy such as game drives, guided bushwalks, mountain biking, one horse riding excursion per person and more, it all suddenly makes sense. Even sundowners are included, and they are a whole affair: either at Pride Rock or the private sundowner area at the end of the ridge which boasts the same views as the rock. It seems like a sundowner spot “miles from anywhere”, but you only have to walk a few minutes to enjoy it.

Contact: www.lengishu.com Book: reservations@scckenya.com

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Roadtripping the coast The Kenyan coast is a place where you can be on a beach one day and be spotting wildlife at Tsavo East or hiking up Taita Hills the next. With popular towns to choose from and being spoilt for choice, we went on a roadtrip with the Kenya Tourism Board hitting up eight different destinations along the way. Here are some highlights of the trip.

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DIANI Dolphin spotting and snorkelling Our plan for the day is to explore what Wasini has to offer. We are picked up from our hotel in Diani at 7:00am and drive for about 45 minutes to get to Shimoni. We pay our entrance fees then hop on a speedboat at the floating jetty, and it takes us to our huge dhow operated

by Pilli Pippa. We set sail for Kisite Marine National Park.

About 45 minutes later, I dash to the edge of the boat to find a good viewing spot and in the water, see the unmistakable splash of dorsal fins. A big pod of about seven dolphins frolic and dance, riding with us for a while before disappearing into the distance, then returning to put on another show. A little further into the park, we come to the reef. Those who can’t swim are suited up with life jackets and they follow the instructor into the water, huddled around a big floater. I pop on my snorkeling mask and dive feet first into the water then swim towards the reef where I spot a lot of different brightly coloured reef fish, including the popular ‘zebra fish’. We spend about two hours in the water, and afterwards, a feast of local Swahili and seafood awaits at a restaurant in Wasini island. The total cost of our excursion was Ksh 5,500 per person.

Hiking at Shimba Hills “If you’re not physically fit, please don’t go down with us to Sheldrick Falls. You will get stuck on the way back,” the ranger emphasizes for the umpteenth time.

“How hard can it possibly be?” we wonder.

We are at the starting point of our hike at Shimba Hills National Reserve, a large coastal forest teeming with sable antelopes, elephants and more, but game viewing is the furthest thing from my mind this afternoon. I am more interested in the beauty of the green sprawling landscape, and Sheldrick Falls, the only waterfall in the Kenyan coast. It is 2.5km from the starting point, and you must be accompanied by a KWS ranger. First, we go down about 300 steps, which on our way back felt like at least 1,000.

After the stairs, we walk down a narrow sandy path, occasionally climbing, but it is generally a relaxed descent, till we hear the unmistakable burble of cascading water, and the thick canopy gives way to a clearing with a waterfall.

Shoes are quickly kicked off, swimsuits changed into as we all jump into the cold

water; it is a welcome respite from the coastal sun and humidity. The next hour is spent standing right at the base of the waterfall and feeling the water pelt the skin, what our ranger calls a ‘massage’.

The drive from Diani took about an hour, and the entry fee is Ksh 300 for adults and Ksh 200 for kids.

WATAMU Sailing down Mida Creek Our huge dhow has a capacity of 35 people. On the lower deck, there are cushioned seating areas along the edge of the boat on either side, and on the bow there is a bar where drinks are being mixed up. The cost covers bottomless drinks, and we were ready to go to town.

Someone pulls out a bluetooth speaker and starts playing African music as we gently glide down Mida Creek. At the center of the boat is a table so you don’t have to carry everything on your lap. At the stern, a chef is whipping up snacks such as samosas, mshikaki and corn fritters, and once each fresh batch is ready, a waiter passes around the plate to the group and we just keep gobbling everything up.

As the sun starts to set, a few of us, the stronger swimmers, decided to dive into the sea from the top deck, if only for the cool boomerangs. Back on board, more bitings are still being passed around and the bar is still open. As the next song starts to play, we all decide to dance.

Organized by Turtle Bay, Hemingways and more, cost varies but ours was Ksh 3,800 per person, from 4:00pm to 7:00pm.

TAITA TAVETA Caving at Vuria Hills Our plan is to drive up to Mwanda where we will pack our car and begin the hike up Vuria Hills. At 2,228m, it is the highest peak of the Taita Hills, Eastern Arc Mountains that stretch all the way to Tanzania.

With a rich green landscape, the roads at Wundanyi wind around the hills with bends so sharp that sometimes you have to honk to alert any oncoming vehicles.

These, though, are a rare sight, since a lot of the homes and farms are constructed on the hills and valleys, and are inaccessible by car. Imagine having a house so high up

that you have to hike back to it everytime you return from the neighbourhood kiosk.

We also pass tall thin trees growing out of rocks.

The hike takes about 45 minutes and it’s a very steep ascent. Our guides are a former local chief, Mr Iphrahim Mwaruta, and a jovial mzee who says he is 75 years old but looks more like 50. While this is an Important Birding Area, there are no wild animals so it is safe to hike without a ranger.

At the viewpoint you can see the town, and Mt Kilimanjaro’s peak on a clear day.

Thereafter we get to check out four caves.

One is a huge gaping rock interface, about 150 m wide and 30m deep, with smaller rocks and flat ground inside where you can sit. The front is covered by foliage and it is very cool and clean.

For adventure enthusiasts, this would be a great spot for camping. As we catch our breath, we are told about Mwangeka wa Malowa, a Taita chief who was at the helm of the surrounding community’s fight against the British colony.

MOMBASA Merry making aboard the Tamarind Dhow Twhe Tamarind dhow, a traditional Arab sailing vessel, was formerly used to transport cargo but is now renovated as a floating restaurant. The evening starts off at Tamarind’s seaside bar with signature dawa cocktails and an array of snacks being ever so generously passed around.

The bar sits on a raised vantage point from which we can see the dhow we'll be sailing on moored at the jetty below.

At 7:00pm, we board and gently start gliding down Tudor Creek. A live band is playing some catchy tunes at the bow, adjacent to the kitchen. The air is sultry, quite the pairing with all the gyrating, shimmying and jumping now going on on the dancefloor. In the midst of panting while patting down my sweaty face with a serviette having accepted yet another glass of white wine from the friendly waiter, I feel the giddy rush of happiness and an overwhelming sense of gratitude for life and laughter and friends and this night. Then someone takes the mic from the lead singer and starts belting out a rather off-key rendition of “Don’t worry, be happy’, and we all join in.

There are four delicious courses, after which we slowly start heading back. The cost was Ksh 5,500 per person.

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From editor’s and reader’s picks to safari spas, all spread across the country and suiting different travel styles, find recommendations for properties to consider visiting in 2021

Saruni Samburu Kalama Conservancy Saruni is a collection of deluxe, intimate safari lodges in Kenya's private conservancies, from Samburu to the Masai Mara. Saruni Samburu has six luxury, ecofriendly villas that are open and spacious. Track rhinos on foot at Saruni Rhino, while at Saruni Mara, enjoy style and luxury in a property nestled in a hidden forest.

Depending on the property, the beautiful unending views, outdoor showers and luxurious rooms will not disappoint, and guests can also enjoy an infinity pool and spa. www.saruni.com

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EDITOR'S PICKS

Featuring only properties visited in the past year, Wendy Watta shares her top picks for places to add to your go-list for 2021.

On a budget

Bahari Guest House Shella, Lamu Finding this place after a cancelled flight was a happy accident, thanks to a porter who offered to carry our bags from the speedboat to ‘any place we can get last minute accommodation’. This place benefits from its prime position right on the beach overlooking the colourful boats in the water. We got the entire ‘penthouse space’ to ourselves, and you can whip up your own meals or have the cook do it for you. With prices starting at Ksh 3,000pp last I checked, it’s a really decent spot for budget travel, but also manage your expectations if you don’t like the soap in the bathroom for instance. Call Tawfiq- 0722901643.

For couples

The Cabanas at Kizingoni Beach Lamu I’ve always wanted to be marooned on an island, Robinson Crusoe style - albeit with all trappings of a chic room - and this was just the place to live out those fantasies. Lying on the bed of my room ‘up in the trees’ during high tide, I could see the sea right in front of the balcony. Downstairs, two hammocks were set side by side overlooking the ocean.

Bare feet, messy hair, post-breakfast swim at Top Deck and cocktails from the beach bar, this place is a secluded paradise. Love is celebrated in this happy nest, and Shawn and Anna love to host proposals, anniversaries and couples looking to spend time together. www.thecabanaslamu.com

Jungle oasis

Rhino River Camp Meru National Park Every time I’ve posted a picture of this camp online, it’s gone viral. Usually it’s about the pool: the entire main lounge is spread across a raised area, and a path leads down to the pool which sits smack in the middle of a forested area. In front of it, a river rushes past, cascading over a huge rock to create a mini-waterfall.

You would think this was in Bali. My tent was raised on stilts and positioned on a wooden deck, with panoramic views of the greenest vegetation coupled with the soothing sound of the river streaming past. The property is boutique, the manager friendly, the massages relaxing, and the game drives worth it. www.porini.com

For simplicity

Doa Doa Safari Camp Galana I met the Kenyan owners who showed me around the property when we dropped in for lunch and a swim. There’s a day rate of Ksh 1,500 if you just want to drive in from Watamu (only two hours away) to do this. It is a short distance from the Tsavo East gate which is unfenced, so wildlife roam in and out. The tents are set right on the banks of the Galana river where you can spot various wildlife coming to drink. With Doa Doa; think comfortable simplicity, not luxury. There are 18 tents and two one-bedroom bungalows, and game drives can be arranged. 0715129006

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On the continent

Thorntree River Lodge Zambia Set within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, this spot has 12 chic double wooden cabins. The Zambezi River is the crowning jewel and the design of the property which is set right on its banks, coupled with the contemporary urban decor, draws inspiration from it. A favourite piece in my room was a large striking tribal black and white portrait of a boy balancing a pot on his head. Expect sharp attention to detail, excellent staff and incredible food. They organized activities for us, such as a visit to Victoria Falls, walking with white rhinos and a magical sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Here I discovered a love for Amarula on the rocks, best enjoyed by the fireplace. www.africanbushcamps.com

Luxury Safari Rekero Camp Maasai Mara

I didn’t even need to leave the premises to witness the great migration. Set on the banks of the Talek River, crossings can be witnessed right from the breakfast table in the stylishly outfitted mess area. One of only nine tents, ours with its ensuite bathroom, lounging area, dressing space and indoor shower sat on a cliff overlooking the river.

As the camp is unfenced, all kinds of game would wander past at night. We opted for the six hour drive to the camp from Nairobi, but should you wish to fly in, Ol Kiombo Airstrip is only 20 minutes.

Accommodation is currently Ksh 20,000 per person per night. Inquiries on residents@asiliaafrica.com

Lakeside

Pikidi Gardens Bondo It is located in Uhoma Village near Liunda Beach, some 21km from Bondo Town. Set right on the lakefront, have an early dinner on the terrace while enjoying the famed Lake Victoria sunsets. If you’re feeling adventurous, they can book you a boat ride followed by a swim, or carry your rods to go fishing. They currently have two kinds of accommodation. The first, a spacious three bedroom holiday home which can accommodate up to 14 people. All its rooms are ensuite and it has a kitchen, dining room and lounges. There are also 20 tents for camping, at two people per tent. Thereafter, venture out and see what Bondo Town has to offer. www.pikidigardens.com

Campsite Lake Ellis Mt Kenya

Drive up the scenic Chogoria Route on the eastern side of Mt Kenya, all the way to Lake Ellis, which at 3,500m above sea level, is the furthest you can drive up the mountain. Be sure to have a 4x4 and a skilled driver...we once got stuck for hours in a stretch that’s very rocky and steep. Then, drive out to the blue lake shimmering in the distance with all three jugged peaks of Mt Kenya visible; rocky escarpments and green vegetation frame the setting. You will have to be self-sufficient and carry everything you need including firewood. It is ridiculously cold so pack extra warm. If you love fishing, carry a rod as Lake Ellis is a haven for rainbow trout.

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READER'S PICKS

Camp Carnelleys Lake Naivasha Carnelley’s is a tranquil campsite with beautiful bushy grounds. The monkeys swing from the trees and the hippos graze on the pier. Over the years Camp Carnelley’s has become one of the most famous locations on Lake Naivasha.

There’s plenty to do nearby, and you can also use it as a base for climbing Mt Longonot. Within the premises, you can check out Lazybones bar and restaurant as well as numerous onsite activities. www.campcarnelleys.com

OLEPANGI FARM Timau It has five cottages including the impressive Round House with a bedroom on its upper floor and an outdoor bathtub.

Each morning, step out onto the wooden floorboards on the front porch of your cottage to take in the sheer beauty of the Lolldaigas. Food is organically grown in their garden. A favourite spot is the grass thatched Party House where bohemian maximalism is at play. Horse riding is available. www.olepangifarm.com

Kicheche Laikipia Camp Nanyuki An eco-award-winning small luxurious tented camp at the foot of an indigenous forest, they provide the ultimate bush experience for a maximum of 12 guests.

The camp consists of six luxurious customdesigned tents, all fully insect-proof with en-suite bathrooms equipped with a dresser, flushing toilet and hot showers. The tents are set around a waterhole which is a haven for resident wildlife. A family tent is also available which sleeps up to 4 guests. reservations@olpejetaconservancy.org

The Charming Lonno Lodge Watamu With only four tower rooms and four historical suites, this boutique lodge is built using ancient techniques and Swahili styles, with a lovely pool to boot. The menu combines African and European dishes with flair, using fresh ingredients bought daily from the local markets and fishermen. There’s currently a 50% off offer on accommodation until December 23rd, for stays up to December 28th. A deluxe seafront double room for instance starts at $185. www.lonnolodge.com

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FAVOURITE PICKS

Olare Mara Kempinski Maasai Mara Surrounded by rolling savannah across which wanders a glorious pageant of wildlife, this exclusive tented camp blends the welcome, simplicity and vibrancy of Masaai culture with the opulence of a five-star experience.

It has twelve tents, a central lounge and dining area, a tented bar set deep within a forested glade and a shaded swimming pool. Activities include campfire cocktails, sundowners, game drives, guided walks, balloon safaris, horse-riding and more. www.kempinski.com

Kibo Safari Camp Amboseli Kibo Safari Camp has 73 self-contained tents for single, double, triple and family accommodation. The beds have been custom designed and locally made using bush logs and will ensure a good night’s sleep.

All tents have flush toilets, showers and wash basins.

Dine in the open terraced restaurant set under acacia trees overlooking the majestic Mt. Kilimanjaro. Other facilities include a lounge & bar, swimming pool, art gallery, conferencing facilities and more. www.kibosafaricamp.com

Medina Palms Watamu This spot has a distinct North African and Mediterranean flair which follows through to the dishes served. Spend the day by the main pool which stretches across the length of the hotel, culminating in an infinity pool overlooking the sea.

Choose from 50 units ranging from cozy one-bedroom apartments to palatial fourbedroom villas. Meals can be enjoyed at Amandina Restaurant or under the moon by the pool, private beach or garden. www.medinapalms.com

Ol Pejeta Bush Camp Nanyuki Set on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro river, the camp offers magnificent views of Mt Kenya where wild animals often wander to your doorstep. The conservancy boasts a wealth of wildlife, housing over 200 migrant and resident bird species and is also home to the last two remaining Northern White Rhinos in the world. Plan a serene visit to Ol Pejeta Bush Camp and get to live amongst the wild animals. www.asiliaafrica.com

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Msambweni Beach House, South Coast The property has a main house that sleeps 10 with a 14m infinity pool as well as three completely private villas, each with its own private pool and panoramic sea views. It lies along a private beach and the villa’s pools range from 10 to 30m, from where many an instagram picture has been snapped. Choose from a jacuzzi overlooking the sea or a private sundowner overlooking a 500 year old baobab tree. msambweni-beach-house.com

Chui Lodge Lake Naivasha There are eight, well-spaced luxurious cottages, each with its own veranda and views of the Rift Valley escarpment and the Sanctuary. The bedrooms have magnificent four poster king size olive wood beds, roaring log fires, en-suite bathrooms and unique décor. On site is a large swimming pool overlooking the waterhole, and four course candle-lit dinners under the stars are highly recommended. www.oserengoniwildlife.com

Enashipai Resort & Spa Naivasha

Vipingo Ridge Kilifi

This sprawling retreat is a great base for exploring Lake Naivasha, but also for relaxation. Various kinds of rooms such as the afro-chic fountain executive rooms with their signature Maasai necklace headboards are available. At the spa, the signature treatment involves a mud wrap, a waterfall treatment followed by a calabash instrument massage. If you bring the kids, there’s a playroom with staff to watch them, giving you the opportunity to nip away for an activity. www.enashipai.com

This exclusive residential golf development has a top-ranked PGA championship golf course. It offers luxury accommodation in villas ranging from two to four bedroomsyou may enjoy the public swimming pool or opt for a villa with a private plunge pool on its rooftop terrace. There is a pristine private beach bar which offers some of the best seafood you can ever have at the coast. www.vipingoridge.com

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THE SAFARI SERIES With affordable rates, self-drive vintage Land Rovers, friendly staff and the most remarkable of views, The Safari Series is the perfect getaway for young, fun and adventurous travelers, writes Joe Wahome.

The Safari Series is a beautiful, six-tent, owner-run camp set deep in the bush in the scenic wildlife-rich Lolldaiga Hills Conservancy, near Nanyuki.

The owners, Ed and Moon Hough host guests while raising their one year old daughter Romilly at the camp.

This property is unique for its self-drive vintage cars. I got to drive a Series I Land Rover built in 1954, with a top speed of just 50km/h. Having never driven a manual car before, I was thrilled by every bit of it, but still remembered to enjoy the game viewing; when we encountered a pride of lions, there wasn’t a single other car in sight. The Safari Series is a classic Land Rover haven and you will find numerous models here. There are the Series I and II Land Rovers built between 1954 and 1966, and a couple of Defenders built more than 30 years ago. Guests can drive themselves in the wild under the watchful eye of their guides.

“I was in the tourism space before, mostly behind-the-scenes, while Ed was involved with getting business executives out of the boardrooms and into the wild,” said Moon. “Within a few years, he had bought enough bits and pieces of furniture and equipment for his bush business. He had an obsession for old Land Rovers and our yard in Nairobi had about 10 of them. I told him to sell or find a solution to create space in our yard, and that’s how the idea for The Safari Series was born.”

Set in the private 49,000 acre Lolldaiga Hills Conservancy, the diverse landscape includes dry savannah, open woodland and high altitude forest.

From camp we could see Lolldaiga Hills, which at 2,000m, are some of the highest peaks in Laikipia County. The Safari Series has a huge communal mess tent where our meals were served, and a large outdoor fireplace near a small man-made dam. Here, we saw elephants, buffaloes and giraffes while having an evening drink before dinner after a fun day of adventures. The six tents at the intimate camp each have a large comfortable bed, outdoor bathroom, flush toilet, overhead bucket shower, solar power and a small deck with safari chairs where we enjoyed lounging in the middle of the day while enjoying the views.

The conservancy is a working ranch where livestock and wildlife coexist to improve the habitat. There are over 60 wildlife species recorded here, including four of the big five except rhinos, plus over 300 bird species. The conservancy also boasts the highest concentration of leopards in the greater Laikipia region. You can also find archeological sites dating back to the Stone Age in the hills, including two rock shelters, rock art, pottery and burial mounds. A hike or drive up one of the hills is recommended, the views are striking, and on a clear day, one can see Mt Kenya in the distance.

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KNOW BEFORE YOU BOOK Rooms: Six. Can accommodate 12 guests.

Rates: Start at Ksh 10,000 pp, + Ksh 3,500 conservation fees.

You will love: the self-drive vintage cars.

Activities: Walking, fly camping, kayaking and more are available Access: 20 minutes from Nanyuki, mostly on tarmac.

Perfect for: Young, fun and adventurous families and friends.

The Safari Series welcomes you to our family-owned and family-run tented safari camp, just 3.5 hours from Nairobi.

With great resident rates, starting from 10,000Ksh per person per night (half price for kids!)* the adventure starts the minute you arrive.

With old-school-cool vintage Land Rover cars to drive yourself, the conservancy offers miles of peaceful bush to explore. Go out with one of our guides, or choose a Series I Land Rover to drive yourself, or perhaps even hike across the hills, into ancient caves and sleep under the stars in our fly camp.

Book your visit today and take advantage of our great prices.

Tel: 0738340783 || safaris@safari-series.com || www.safari-series.com

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SPAS

Travelling with kids is great, but sometimes it’s nice to get away for a spot of pampering with friends, or your significant other. We’ve compiled a list of five wonderful spas guaranteed to deliver safari luxe and wellness in one fell swoop. If you’re looking to relax, unwind and reset in the new year these should be top of your list.

Chyulu Wellness at Finch Hattons Tsavo West Finch Hattons, recently named as Africa’s leading tented camp by the WTA has a roster of worthy accolades under its belt, but their Chyulu Wellness is equally worthy of its own recognition. The ‘wellness complex’ - the largest of its kind in East Africa - is replete with an expansive open yoga studio, private infinity pool, hammam and climate-controlled treatment rooms, where massages begin with a calming foot ritual on Mzima stones, followed by a gentle welcome touch called the ‘Walk of the Elephant’. Their yoga instructors are all graduates of the renowned Africa Yoga Project program. www.finchhattons.com

Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops Maasai Mara

Segera Spa Laikipia

SpaSaab at Sasaab Samburu

Picture-perfect expansive views of the Mara plains by day and access to the spa’s star-lit constellation swimming pool by night, the treatments here run the full gamut from hand and foot “rituals” to mesmerising Terra-D’Afrique facial treatments. Instead of a massage, the Spa Menu terms include words such as “journey” and “feast” alluding to rejuvenation and indulgence. Residents also have access to the gym, Rasul steam and sauna. It's no surprise that The World Luxury Spa Awards lauded Amani Spa as the “Best Safari Spa in Africa.” www.bushtopscamps.com

The treatment room is clad in rough hewn sandstone lending a warmth to cool, linen draped treatment tables. One of the signatures of Segera’s treatments is the use of essential oils sourced locally along with herbs from their garden. If you are feeling more energetic, you can access their adjoining ‘state-of-the-art’ gym or opt to languidly walk across the courtyard to their Rasul Steam Tower. A visit here is a perfect opportunity to reconnect with nature which is a key element on the path to wellness. www.segera.com

The SpaSaab follows much the same visual and spiritual ethos as Sasaab itself. Expansive views of the more remote Samburu National Reserve, replete with a measure of Swahili and Moroccan flair and a focus on a minimal ecological footprint. Treatments here incorporate organic ingredients from Healing Earth, with a selection of luxurious balms and oils to provide a unique pampering experience with a focus on de-stressing, relaxing and hydrating. www.thesafaricollection.com

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OLOLO’S MID-WEEK OFFER (SUNDAY-THURSDAY)

2-NIGHT STAY

stay a minimum of 2 nights and receive one complimentary lunch per person.

@ololosafari

3-NIGHT STAY

3 nights and have 2 complimentary lunches per person and a complimentary game drive.

35 Email: info@olololodge.com ||NOMAD Phone:MAGAZINE +254(0)7082020 844818

Journey To The

JADE SEA

A convoy of 56 cars leaves Nairobi for Eliye Springs for a groundbreaking adventure filled with breathtaking scenery, mishaps, meals cooked in unexpected classrooms, Turkana pyramids, camaraderie and a cheekily dubbed ‘disco vumbi’.

Text and Photography: Miller Gibons, @itsMillerG

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ROAD TRIP

A

fter a year of planning, dozens of visits to the garage and about a week of packing, it was D- Day. About a year ago we opted to visit Turkana again. In 2018 we visited Sibiloi and Loiyangalani, and after falling in love with the place, were told that the view on the other side of the lake would be even more fascinating. And just like that, the decision to do a big trip with a 56 car convoy to Eliye Springs with its sunny beach, palm trees and clear skies was born.

Our first destination was Naivasha where the fleet of 56 broke off into easily manageable groups. Thereafter, there were 284km ahead of us, taking a scenic route-less-travelled, to spend the night at the campsite at Rimoi National Park. The steep hills had a few brakes going “spongy” due to overheating discs and pads. More seasoned drivers with manual cars opted to engine brake while others locked their diffs and crawled down slowly. The sharp rocks took a few casualties, ripping through a few tyres.

Seven hours later, we hit tarmac again around Marigat and headed to Rimoi.

Not even the heavy rains could dampen our mood. We pitched our tents right next to the river at Rimoi Crocodile Camp and tucked in for the night, falling asleep to the soothing sound of the water.

Day two saw us drive through Kerio Valley headed to Marich Pass. The ascent was slow and scenic. The convoy snaked its way up the steep hills, closely watching their temperature gauges. We had two Range Rover classics- a 1974 and a 1984five Landcruiser 80 series all more than 20

years old, and Land Rovers ranging from 1984 to 2014. Funny enough, the older vehicles seemed to behave as the drivers knew to go easy on the throttle especially considering that all the cars were fully loaded with a week's supply of food, drinking water, clothes and clean fuel.

Drivers with a heavy foot quickly learnt to ease off the throttle. Occasionally, we stopped at different viewpoints along the Kerio valley to get a bird’s eye view of what lay below.

In the distance, rain clouds gathered.

We were indifferent as we were on the tarmac heading towards Iten. Typical of Bundu Rovers, we opted to take a detour and use some of the back routes seeing as we had made good time and would arrive at camp early. The views as we drove into West Pokot were rewarding.

We’re not ones to shy away from adventure, but logic had us opt to camp at a nearby school after we couldn’t cross one river that was only 10km from our would-be campsite. As the heavy downpour continued, we had to cook inside classrooms as others opted to sleep in their cars. We hit the sack a few minutes after midnight following a hearty communal meal, and those who couldn’t pitch their tents got help.

At the crack of dawn we sent out some scouts to find out if it was safe to cross the river. Unfortunately it still wasn’t, so we took a longer route that would meet up with the main road to Lodwar slightly past Marich Pass. The route was close to 124km through more lugers, river crossings, mad patches and thick bush. We got some forest rangers who accompanied us to the main road, 10 minutes out of the rendezvous spot in Kainuk. There, we

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One would easily mistake the natural Wadach pyramids for their bigger brothers in Sudan and Egypt.

were met by the county convoy that drove with us to Lodwar town, and eventually to Eliye Springs which would be our home for the next three nights. It was a pleasant evening; the first warm night since we left Nairobi.

Day four was set aside to drive to Lokitaung through Kalokol, the main fishing village on this side of the lake. We were up at the crack of dawn to watch the sunrise, then set off through the sand dunes, rocky cliffs and meandering desert tracks as we headed to the “cradle of mankind.” When we got there, Turkana Boy was a sight for sore eyes.

The fifth day was a chance to check out the sand dunes in Napeget and the “pyramids of Turkana.” To get there, we used the Eliye Springs-Kalokol Road.

One would easily mistake the natural Wadach pyramids for their bigger brothers in Sudan and Egypt. Interestingly, one is made of soil while the other is made of sand. Photos of the sand dunes could easily be mistaken for those in Dubai or Egypt.

Beautiful and sun kissed, they stretched as far as the eye could see. We set back to camp, having filled our small cups of adventure to the brim.

That evening we had a shindig, a “soul music” night on the beach that we called “Disco Vumbi.” We sat by the beach after dinner and watched the stars above until we couldn’t keep our eyes open anymore.

Day six was for resting. During the day, we had highs of up to 44 degrees with 30% humidity.

In the evenings, things settled to temperatures of around 27 to 30 degrees. We found a spot in the shade of palm trees right next to the lake where the water was slowly reclaiming the land. Every so often, steaks would hit the grills. The water was tepid, the drinks well chilled and the company was hilarious. Sometimes a siesta gave way to a swim.

That evening, the county government hosted us for a cocktail party. We had to dress up in Turkana traditional attire, and word had spread in the nearby village so the women came decked in all sorts of intricate beaded ornaments, headgear and fabric.

The county was grateful to have us visit in such numbers, the biggest to ever drive in. The final day, our destination was Saiwa Swamp and eventually back to Nairobi 1980Km later.

Thanks to Bundu Rovers and the Turkana County government for making this trip possible.

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UNTAMED UGANDA:

Adventures in the Pearl of Africa Home to some of the most beautiful wild places left on this planet, a friendly easygoing population and tasty coffee, Uganda is undoubtedly one of Africa’s most exciting destinations. For travelers, it's more than just gorillas.

Text and Photography by Maurice Schutgens

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DISPATCH

T

CONQUERING A VOLCANO he eight volcanoes of the Albertine Rift create one of the most dramatic skylines found anywhere on the African continent with Sabyinyo, roughly translating to “old man’s tooth” in the local Kinyarwanda language, being one of the most spectacular extinct volcanoes. Located within Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, it is considered one of Uganda’s most challenging hikes.

In Kisoro town, a mere 14km from Mgahinga, we signed up for the hike.

Early the next morning we gathered for our pre-hike briefing at the park headquarters at Ntebeko (2360m). Our guide, Joseph,

entered the equatorial rainforest proper.

This marked the official start of the climb and it would be brutally steep all the way to the summit. The temperature dropped rapidly and the group quickly splintered apart. The gorillas were nowhere to be seen. “Probably over the border in Rwanda”, our guide offered helpfully. The mist descended and the clouds rolled over, giving us the odd glimpse down the abyss that led into the land of a thousand hills.

“Are those ladders?” My fiancée Jorien asked as we looked up at the exposed rock face towering above us. I was somewhat apologetic, I may have left out some key details when I convinced her to sign up. They were ladders indeed...the famed near-vertical ladders of Sabyinyo.

We tried not to look down, but inevitably that is all we did. We gripped them tightly as we inched slowly upwards.

Suddenly there was nowhere left to climb. I wish we could say that the Virungas lay at our feet but thick clouds enveloped us on all sides. People do not climb Sabyinyo for the views, for Sabyinyo’s summit is almost always lost in the clouds. People climb Sabyinyo to conquer themselves.

addressed our group that consisted of a bunch of hiking misfits, some wearing rather dapper office attire as if they were going for an interview. “This is a tough eight hour hike and many of you won’t make it to the top. Also, please stay behind the armed guard – the buffalos are really bad tempered here”. Right. Excellent. Off we went.

It was a mystical world; light filtered in through the bamboo canopy as the wind whistled above, the bamboo groaning in weak protest. The path was littered with fresh signs of elephants and buffaloes.

Soon we left the bamboo zone behind and

While it constitutes an unspoiled savannah landscape dotted with forests regularly patrolled by resident chimps, it is the famed tree climbing lions that pull the intrepid explorer.

A SECRET WATERFALL Located in the foothills of Mt. Elgon National Park on the boundary of Uganda and Kenya, Sipi Falls is a little known jewel in East Africa. While you don’t need to have a particular reason to visit a place, most come to Sipi Falls to enjoy three things: world-class hiking, famous Arabica coffee and ultimate tranquility away from the hustle and bustle of Kampala.

It’s the tranquility we noticed first. Sipi Falls is no more than a cluster of houses situated along the tarmac road that snakes up the valley. Traffic is rare and people and animals alike dominate the road, occasionally stopping for a chat or to marvel at the spectacular views. They really are breathtaking!

The cooler climate is a pleasant change from the humidity of the lowlands. The fertile soils of the extinct volcano, Mt. Elgon, have transformed Sipi Falls into the producer of some of the finest Bugishu Arabica blends in the world. I love my coffee - so I would know.

And while Sipi Falls is a gentle little hamlet where people can ‘find themselves’, it is the glorious waterfalls that draw visitors like ourselves. Three waterfalls continuously cascade down the cliffs, some plunging more than 100m into the

Kyoga basin below. It is a mesmerising landscape, with the most magical time occurring when the falls are bathed in a warm afternoon glow.

The best way to appreciate the falls, coffee fields and imposing wall of forest is to hire a local guide – and that’s exactly what we did. In a fairly strenuous six-hour hike, we covered all the waterfalls, passing through local villages whilst enjoying the clean air. We fell asleep listening to the rumble of the falls nearby.

In search of tree climbing lions Bordering the spectacular Virunga Mountains in the west and stretching to the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains in the north, Queen Elizabeth National Park – located in the southwest extremity of Uganda – is one of Africa’s finest protected areas.

While it constitutes an unspoiled savannah landscape dotted with forests regularly patrolled by resident chimps, it is the famed tree climbing lions that pull the intrepid explorer. It is one of the few places in Africa where when your guide shouts “lion!” and you find yourself looking up!

We had spent several hours driving around the northeastern part of Queen Elizabeth National Park earlier in the day and encountered a wealth of wildlife, from numerically abundant kob antelopes and bad tempered elephants to sunburnt hippos and the disappearing tail of a leopard in the tall grass during a walking safari.

It was fantastic but we were on the hunt for something specific – and for that we needed to head to the Ishasha region, a trip off the beaten track into the deep south of the park. Two hours later, we leant out over the rooftop of our vehicle scanning the trees overhead. Not a lion in sight. I had lost count of the number of trees we had inspected. Dickson (our guide) turned to us, “I only know of one more tree – we hope for the best!”.

We followed the deeply rutted trail to the base of a colossal sycamore tree. We spotted them immediately. No less than five lions draped over branches happily avoiding the blistering midday heat.

As we circled the tree we spotted more lions, even cubs, all the way up in the highest branches, a staggering 5m above the ground. There wasn’t a lot of movement I have to say – the odd yawn, a twitch of the leg from a dream, a slight repositioning to improve comfort and the flutter of a sleepy eyelid. What a life!

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A Front Row Seat to Conservation at Solio With her family, Ami Doshi Shah sets off to Solio Game Reserve for a weekend filled with conservation, nature and luxury.

H

eaving breaths of agitation. A nose bleeding from a self-inflicted graze.

There was a palpable hint of adrenaline and fear in the air. He sat in the weather-beaten cage piercing onlookers with rage, condemnation and apprehension.

Occasionally, when someone moved closer his best defence was to bare his yellowed canines and periodically let out a horrifying roar to ensure some distance between him and his captors.

He was a mere four-year-old, but had a strength, willfulness and tenacity that had, unbeknownst to him, landed him in this cage. Many other lions suffered a much more devastating fate for hunting cattle in neighbouring farms. Herders and ranchers in Kenya have been known to poison big cats in retaliation for such a misdeed. After almost six months away, he was baited, trapped and transported for two hours on the back of a trailer by an enviable entourage of KWS Rangers. His

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final destination- 19,000 acres of rolling savannah belonging to the Solio Game Reserve.

habitat, but poaching is still a very present threat.

John, our affable guide, shared many stories of conservation and its impressive challenges here at Solio Game Reserve.

In 2017, a female southern white rhino and her calf were brutally killed for their horns. It was a devastating blow for the KWS and Solio. Nevertheless, the rhino sanctuary has continued to populate

For many, Solio has become synonymous with its active efforts towards sustainable conservation. Positioned between the foothills of Mount Kenya and the Aberdares Range, it has become one of the most successful ‘private rhino breeding reserves’ in Kenya. In the 1970s and 80s, rampant poaching saw black rhino populations diminish to 96% of its original numbers. In 1970, a portion of the 64,000 acre Solio Ranch was established

by Courtland Parfet as a rhino sanctuary.

Over the years, as awareness of the plight of these mammals increases, so has the number of black rhinos worldwide, to around 5,500. The introduction of a founder herd of southern white rhinos from South Africa in 1980 has also been highly successful. On almost every game drive during our two-night stay, we encountered at least 30-40 southern white rhinos in herds of five to ten individuals. These grassland grazers have thrived in this new

GREAT HOTELS

other reserves and national parks with the black rhino and the southern white rhinos where populations had previously been eliminated.

Aside from Solio’s laudable conservation efforts, there is much to be said about Solio Lodge itself. Built just 10 years ago, the property is the only guest accommodation on the expansive ranch.

The main building and its five luxury cottages are topped with undulating steeple-thatched roofs and interspersed with sheets of floor-to-ceiling glass in keeping with its natural surroundings.

Picture-perfect vignettes of the landscaped lawns, architectural wooden decking, majestic yellow fever acacia trees and idle giraffes in the distance were the views we encountered upon entering the main lounge. And everywhere walls were decorated with representations of the endangered rhino. In giant black and white photographs or delicate illustrations, it was hard to ignore that the preeminent symbol of Solio was one of the reasons people far and wide flocked to this little corner of the Great Rift Valley.

Our meals were particularly noteworthy.

Solio’s Chef, Elvis Mwangi, told us that he and Ava Patton, the General Manager, work closely to develop menus and dishes for guests that are wholesome, healthy and yet show a great passion for the provenance of the ingredients. He explained that they source as much of their produce from local farmers and producers considering the Kenyan Highlands are a veritable cornucopia. Their pride in growing fresh herbs, lettuce, rocket and even kaffir lime in their on-site ‘shamba’ reflected in the simple and seasonal approach to building flavours. An outdoor deck overlooking the conservancy was a mesmerising location for breakfast and lunch. Our dinners were enjoyed in our expansive cottage, nonchalantly wrapped in our bathrobes and snuggled by the fireplace where the interior space took on a much more intimate and soft glow.

Part of the Safari Collection Group, Solio is admittedly, one of the most romantic locations we’ve had the opportunity to visit and some travellers prefer to take advantage of their magical space and choose to read a book on their cottage deck or opt-out of the early morning game drives in favour of a ‘liein’. We however took advantage of their significant selection of activities from a wildlife walk where our boys learned how to make their bows and arrows to a magnificent horse-back safari on the ranch flanked by Mount Kenya and the Aberdares in the distance amidst herds of grazing zebras.

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NOTES FROM THE BUSH

A plethora of

Pelicans

Tens of thousands of pelicans roosting, splashing about and chorusing at Lake Natron become the subject of an impromptu home-schooling lesson for Samantha du Toit’s kids.

PHOTO BY LEE BERND

I

have become very good at multitasking. I have excelled at the old saying ‘jack of all trades and master of none’. Every day brings a juggle of home-schooling, work obligations, meal decisions, resupplying orders from Nairobi, an attempt at exercise and just daily life. During lockdown came the realisation that one can run life remotely with a bit of effort. Even at this very moment, my face mask is drying while I hear the children’s accounts of their day while simultaneously attempting to pen my thoughts.

Therefore, it was with pleasure that we broke routine three mornings ago to witness one of the most incredible sights any of us have ever seen. We had been told that there was an unusual number of pelicans on the northern end of Lake Natron, so we woke one morning way before dawn to pack a picnic breakfast and drive the hour and a half to the shores of the lake. Dawn was breaking as we passed the sleepy Shompole town, on the border of Tanzania.

A few minutes later, we could not believe our eyes. The sight of thousands of birds, perhaps even tens of thousands, greeted us; roosting on cliffs, splashing in the water and creating a near-deafening morning

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chorus. And while most were indeed pelicans, there were many more; yellowbilled storks, marabou storks, Egyptian geese, etc.

‘What are they all doing here?’ asked the children, eyes wide with astonishment.

Pleased at the chance of an impromptu home-schooling lesson, I reflected the question back at them. At first they did not know the answer, until, having run to the edge of the lake to get a better look, they discovered something. Fish. Dead and smelly or alive and swimming, small fish covered the lake shore and shallow waters.

‘All the birds are eating all the fish’ the children declared in triumph. The next question was what type of fish were they? In order to answer this, all manner of suggestions about how to catch some samples without nets or rods were put forward. With Baba’s help, they rigged up a fish-catching contraption using some nylon luggage straps and caught enough to take some photos to send to our more fish-savvy friends. ‘Is this the kind of fish we will see when we go snorkelling this Christmas at the coast?’ asked our little boy. ‘Lake Magadi tilapia’ came the reply on Whatsapp, so ‘probably not’ was the answer.

The sun had now crept over the brow of Shompole mountain, and we had our picnic breakfast in the sparse shade of a small acacia tree. We were soon joined by a Maasai elder who we discovered had lived his entire adult life by the lake. Over a cup of sweet tea, he told us that never in his lifetime had he seen the lake levels this high, nor the abundance of fish or bird life, particularly the pelicans. Flamingos yes, but never pelicans in this number. A story to be told, he believed. It had to mean something he declared, but stopped short of telling us what that something might be.

Later, as we packed up to go home, and we watched him walk off into the distance, Nixon, our Maasai guide, told us that the old man was indeed a recognised ‘laibon’, or wise man, one who could cast spells, remove curses and see into the future. For the children, this was almost too much to comprehend in one day and there was an usual silence the entire journey home.

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife conservationist, working with SORALO, a Maasai land trust. She lives with her husband, Johann, and their two children at Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the Shompole Conservancy.

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Proud to be #1 of 27 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County

Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people in your life. Ride a horse, take a walk, milk a cow, indulge in a massage, venture out to nearby Lolldaigas, Ol Pejeta, Ngare Ndare or the favourite by far: “Do Nothing.�

Also our pool and pool house our now ready and waiting . . .

For bookings: welcome@olepangifarm. com & www.olepangifarm.com 46

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE *We heve adhered to all the governement COVID-19 regulations and have set up measures to enure guest safety.