Nomad 33 | Holiday Homes

HOLIDAY

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Letter from the Editor This year has been full of pandemic-

away with buffets, all staff wear masks,

This pandemic has affected so many

related cliches such as “unprecedented

rooms and common areas are cleaned

aspects of our lives. We wanted to

times,” “new normal,” “pandemic

more frequently, there is contactless

dedicate this issue to the homes

fatigue,” the list goes on. I roll my eyes

handover for private rental homes, and

away from home that provide us with

when another ad flits past my screen

the list goes on. As I started to learn

an escape from city stresses, work,

beginning with the phrase “Now more

to travel within the framework of the

polluted air, and now, pandemic

than ever…” However, as much as

pandemic, there were aspects of travel

fatigue. As always, we encourage you

these are cliches, there is something

I began to appreciate in a new light.

to get out and experience all that local

symbolic in their use. A signifier of a

In July of 2020, my first trip out of

travel has to offer in a way that makes

momentous occasion in which we came

the city since the pandemic started, I

you feel safe and secure. In the coming

together and endured (hopefully) one

visited Nanyuki where I was maskless

pages, you will find beautiful homes

of the most difficult periods in our

for hours enjoying deep breaths of

whether you are interested in beach

lives. As Psychology Today states in a

the crisp clean mountainous air. In

or bush travel, things to do in Kilifi,

recent issue, “Though often overused,

September of 2020, the lack of traffic

conservation efforts in the Mara, and

clichés serve as guides to life that

in the Maasai Mara revitalized its

more.

reflect assumptions deeply embedded in

ecosystem: some days our safari vehicle

popular culture".

was the only car seen for miles. In

Signature goes here:

We hope you feel inspired.

October of 2020, business was picking My saving grace through the pandemic

up in Lamu, predominantly with local

has been the ability to travel locally

travellers. In March of 2021, the

and rediscover all that Kenya has to

white beaches in Watamu felt private

offer. The travel and tourism industry

by comparison to previous years. No

Soni Adriance

was hit particularly hard and had to

matter where I went, the individuals

Editor

quickly adapt to the new rules and

within the industry were always happy

regulations: many hotels have done

to host and accommodate travellers.

@soni.side.up

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Contents 20. Featured Properties Get away to the Kenyan coast and bush with these unique stays

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Cover Photo Lazy Days, by Andras Porffy

Contents Photo

by Brian Siambi @brian.siambi

Back Cover

by Daniel Msirikale @that_tanzanianguy

11. News and Events What every Nomad needs to know

12. Top Shots Three photographers beautifully capture the relationship between humans and our environment

30. Farm Life A unique farm and treehouse experience on 500 acres a mere hour and a half drive outside of Nairobi

32. The Safari Series The Nomad team heads to Lolldaiga to experience The Safari Series and Land Rover cars in all their glory

36. Under The Baobab Discover a world-class holiday home on Diani beach

38. Cheetah Connection Lions are wildly reputed to be the only truly social big cat, but you'd be forgiven for questioning the traditional wisdom of this sentiment after observing cheetahs in the field

44. What I Pack Self-proclaimed visual orator, TJ (aka The Mentalyst), shares what he packs in his bag for a trip to the coast

NOMAD Issue 33 · September 2021 · PUBLISHED BY PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DIRECTORS Ben Peterson, Jan Van der Does de Willebois, Mikul Shah. CEO Mark Willms.

PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES Marco Saio, Anthony van Ryswyck, Eva Kigo, Lizzie Wright.

EDITOR Soni Adriance DESIGN Karan Khalsa HEAD OF SALES Vanessa Wanjiku.

DIRECTOR OF NTC Jodi York BOOKINGS MANAGER Carol Soi OPERATIONS Caroline Rubiro.

SALES ENQUIRIES 0716 497 095 EMAIL editor@nomad.africa NomadAfricaTravel

@NomadAfricaTravel

@NomadAfrica_

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NEWS

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EVE N TS

KTB & TikTok On August 24th 2021 the Kenya Tourism Board

the important role TikTok plays in raising destination

announced a partnership with the short-form video

Kenya’s brand visibility around the globe... Together

platform TikTok. This partnership is part of a longer

with TikTok we can engage the world with content and

term strategy to raise International tourism appeal

experiences from any part of the country and drive more

and awareness around conservation. Dr. Betty Radier,

awareness of our country and wildlife, especially during

CEO of Kenya Tourism Board said, "We recognise

this time when travel is limited".

Electric Safari Emboo River in the Maasai Mara has the first full fleet of Electric Safari Vehicles in East Africa. As of early 2021, Opibus in Nairobi converted Emboo River's 10 Land Cruisers from the 1990's from diesel to fully Electric Vehicles.

Not only does this cut carbon dioxide emission, it also allows for a quieter, less intrusive safari experience.

White Rhino Embryo In late July Kenyan authorities and conservation partners announced that three additional White Rhino embryos were successfully created bringing the total produced to 12. Immediately after the oocyte retrieval, 17 eggs were airlifted to Avantea laboratory in Italy to be fertilised and cyro-preserved.

This is a milestone in the effort to retain this extant species of rhino.

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Talisa Lanoe @talisalanoe Ibrahim & Camel I met Ibrahim a few days earlier while walking on Diani beach. We got to talking and he agreed to let me take some images one morning as he washed his camels in the water, a task he did daily to prepare for the day ahead.

Standing behind the lens you could just tell there was a beautiful connection between Ibrahim and his camels, this image is a glimpse into that friendship.

Canon 5D Mark IV Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 L 1/500th sec shutter speed,

ISO 100, f2.8, 24mm

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India Bulkeley @indiabulkeley indiabulkeley.com I took this photo of zebras and wildebeests crossing the Sand River during the Great Migration. When photographing, I always look for new ways to portray familiar scenes. Slow shutter speeds enable me to create a unique sense of motion in many of my images. My aim here was to capture the feeling of chaos of the migration.

Nikon D5 Sigma 150-600mm 1/13th sec shutter speed ISO 500, f29

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Karan Khalsa @karankhalsa Counting Sheep.

It was a dusty afternoon in Lolldaiga Hills as Elijah ushered us in the Safari Series' custom 90 Defender for a scenic game drive.

As we approached a hill, not knowing what to expect on the other side, a flock of well-kept sheep blocked the road ahead making the way impassable.

Elijah switched the car off and took his phone out, it was the first time I'd seen him do this during our drive. I took my camera out and got the shot.

Nikon D850 NIKKOR 24-70mm f2.8 1/2,500th sec shutter speed ISO 250, f2.8

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A Slice Of Bali In Kenya

Bulloch House BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

This unique Swahili house is located on

a book from the house library filled

the pristine white sands of Bofa beach,

with books for all ages and occasions.

Kilifi. Built entirely out of local materials

Also in this living/dining space is a

- makuti thatch, coral blocks, and Lamu

tastefully designed bar perfect for fixing

floors, it boasts outstanding architectural

yourself sundowner drink to enjoy the

and interior design. The white walls are

magnificent sunset. The lush garden

accented with magnificent cedar and

and open plan living/dining area make

local neem giving this home a rustic,

Bulloch House ideal for those who are

tropical feel. Adding to the effect is the

interested in hosting events here. This

lush tropical garden home to various

space can easily be transformed to host

species birds and flora.

up to 150 people with additional catering services to compliment the in-house

The focal point of this home is the open

services.

plan living/dining area which overlooks the free form beach edge pool to

During your stay, the home is self

the sea. This is where you'll happily

catered and fully staffed. Dominic, the

spend the majority of your time in this

friendly head chef at the house also

home, wiling away the hours reading

manages all other household activities.

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Upon your request, Dominic can assist

apartment with a rooftop terrace view

space structure is built from teak from

with menu ideas, kitchen supplies, and

of the ocean. The double bedroom

Java, Indonesia. The compound is filled

provide you with delicious meals day and

also has a sitting room entrance with a

with indigenous and exotic plants with

night.

TV. Downstairs in the north wing of the

Balinese statues and furniture to add

house are two double bedrooms with

to the Balinese effect. Bali Bofa can

Bulloch House comfortably sleeps 10

views of the pool and garden. Upstairs,

be booked together or separately from

adults in 5 ensuite bedrooms. Each room

is the final double bedroom with a

Bulloch House as it is completely self

has it's own secluded, self-contained

lounging area.

contained. The house has its own fully

experience. The south wing of the house

equipped kitchen for self catered meals

has a master bedroom with a bathroom

Situated on it's own private compound

as well as an outhouse block with a

that opens to a private walled downstairs

within the Bulloch House property is

shower, wash area, and compost toilet.

garden with a gazebo facing the ocean.

Little Bali Bofa, a traditional Limasan

The beach is a simple two minute walk

Upstairs on the south wing is a small

hut from Java. This traditional single

from this compound.

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Beachfront Holiday Homes Photo by Zanelle Wanja

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Malindi 10 Guests

10 Bedrooms

Vipingo

10 Bathrooms

20 Guests

10 Bedrooms

10 Bathrooms

Cozy Point Homes

Cardamom House

The small boutique hotel blends the culture and

Cardamom House is an elegant Swahili-influenced

traditions of Malindi where it draws inspiration for

gem perched on a coral outcrop that overlooks

the choice of colours, materials, furnishings and

its private beach cove. The stunning Cardamom

decorations. The owners are available to assist with

House is made up of four villas consisting of

requests and potentially surprise you with excursion

Manda Toto, Lulu, The Tower and Shela. These

ideas resulting from 20 years of experience in Kenya.

villas can be rented all together or separately as

Five large rooms are ideal for those looking for an

rates are on a per person basis. Each villa has its

exclusive getaway.

own private ensuite bedroom.

Lamu

Kilamawingu House

10 Guests

5 Bedrooms

5 Bathrooms

Kilamawingu is an exceptionally charming, spacious, and

facing out over the Manda channel. Particularly special is

beautifully-furnished family house with a swimming pool

the corner master bedroom, with windows facing out on two

close to the seafront in Shela village. The home has its own

sides, catching the opposing breezes.

private garden and balconies designed by an Italian architect

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Diani 10 Guests

5 Bedrooms

Malindi

5 Bathrooms

12 Guests

4 Bedrooms

3 Bathrooms

Dzumbe

Neem House

Dzumbe, part of Four Twenty South, has two

This beautiful Swahili architectural house is

double and two twin rooms, all ensuite, with both

surrounded by numerous large neem, palm, and fig

internal and external access and an ensuite double

trees and situated on a coral outcrop catching the

annex with its own entrance, sleeping 10 people in

ocean breeze. The house has an experienced chef

total. Stylishly decorated with eclectic antiques and

who produces classic Swahili dishes, refreshing

original art works from famous Kenyan artists, this

salads and freshly baked bread. The chef sources

is a perfect house for a family reunion or a group of

only the freshest ingredients from the market and

friends.

works closely with local fisherman.

Lamu

Full Moon House

6 Guests

3 Bedrooms

3 Bathrooms

Standing at the end of a shell-strewn shoreline, this three-

one bedroom into a twin. With a private pool and beach

bedroom vacation rental is perfect for island living. The

access, this home is ideal for family vacations. All amenities

house has three double rooms, with the option of turning

are included with this home.

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Swahili-Influenced Gem Cardamom House

Cardamom House is an elegant Swahili-

reading a good book as the butler

bedroom that can be a twin or double

influenced gem located in the marine

prepares your favourite wine from the

bedroom with its own ensuite. The

conservation area of Kuruwitu. The

tasting you enjoyed earlier that day in

Tower is a beautiful pink tower with

house is made up of four villas: Manda

the wine cellar. Begin your evening with

three levels: each level is complete with

Toto, Lulu, The Tower, and Shela. Each

a sundowner on the rooftop terrace

its own bedroom and private bathroom

villa has its own private ensuite bedroom

of The Tower which receives beautiful

accommodating six people total. The

and can be rented separately or together

sunset views. Later, enjoy delicious fresh

Tower has a rooftop terrace with the

as rates are on a per person basis.

seafood meals prepared by the talented

most incredible sunset views. Villa

chef on the patio underneath the stars.

Shela has two floors, each with its own

If you’re interested in seeing marine life

Cardamom House sleeps 20 comfortably.

bedroom, accomodating a total of four

in the shallow pools when the tide is

Manda Toto is the main villa which

people.

out, the house has direct access to the

sleeps eight in two private rooms and

white sandy beaches and kaleidoscope

two penthouse suites. This villa also

This home is ideal for families looking

blue, green waters of the Indian Ocean.

has entertainment space, a dining room,

to relax and unwind by the beach or for

Or, spend your time sitting by the pool

and a bar. Villa Lulu has a single level

groups of friends looking for a getaway.

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BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

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Places To Stay Off The Beaten Path

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Photo by @redcharlie1

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Maasai Mara 10 Guests

5 Bedrooms

5 Bathrooms

Maasai Mara 2 Guests

1 Bedroom

1 Bathroom

Cottar’s Bush Villa

Naboisho House

The Bush Villa provides a luxury private stay option

In the heart of the Mara Naboisho Conservancy is

for up to 12 guests and comes complete with its own

Naboisho, a stylish haven with nine elegant tents,

private 25 meter swimming pool. For those that

offering a level of safari solitude almost unheard of so

want absolute privacy in the Maasai Mara, combined

close to the Maasai Mara. Fully catered (three delicious

with dedicated and discrete staff, award-winning

meals and all refreshments included), morning and

guides, and an abundance of wildlife, Cottar’s Bush

afternoon game drives, picnics and house drinks

Villa offers the only real private luxury home in the

included. Each spacious canvas safari tent has its own

Maasai Mara.

en suite bathroom and private veranda.

Nanyuki

Mukima House

16 Guests

9 Bedrooms

9 Bathrooms

At the foothills of Mt. Kenya this double storey house is

room, dining room, a generous entrance hall and an upstairs

set in vivid tropical flower beds with expansive lawns. The

gallery. This accommodation is fully serviced and the food is

house has eight ensuite bedrooms, a games room, a large

local and homegrown.

kitchen with a store, laundry room, cloakroom, drawing

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Mt. Kenya 10 Guests

5 Bedrooms

5 Bathrooms

PR OPER TIE S

Maasai Mara 6 Guests

3 Bedrooms

3 Bathrooms

Ndongoro Log Cabin

Mara House

The self catering log cabin nestled within a

The Mara Bush Houses are ideal for those who

UNESCO World Heritage site sleeps eight in four

want the freedom to set the pace of their safari

very comfortable bedrooms with an additional two

escape. Mara House is a fully staffed house

in a bunk room. It has spacious accommodation

featuring three spacious ensuite bedrooms, perfect

including a sitting room and dining room with an

for three couples or a group of friends. Included in

open fire and a fully equipped kitchen opening to a

the rate is full board catering and refreshments,

large veranda overlooking the glade and river.

guided morning and evening game drives, bush picnics and transfers to Mara North airstrip.

Aberdares

Cedar Retreat

3 Guests

1 Bedroom

1 Bathroom

Cedar Retreat is in the Northern Moorlands of Aberdare

each accommodating two people, there are all the creature

National Park and is the only wildlife adventure lodge in

comforts you would need. There are 4 cabins with double

the Northern part of the famed park. In the six log cabins,

beds, and two cabins with twin beds.

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Farm Life Eco Farmhouse & Eco Treehouse BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

There's seldom a road trip in Nairobi that doesn't end with one person marveling why it doesn't happen more often. An easy hour and a half to Makuyu can result in fresh air, views of lush forest, and peaceful quiet. On 500 acres of land in Makuyu lies an expansive fruit farm, showing off her many orange, mango, dragon and jackfruit trees. But it doesn't end there. Carefully hidden amidst the farm lies two unique properties: Eco Farmhouse and Eco Treehouse.

Eco Farmhouse is a charming original 1960's farmhouse which has recently been renovated and modernised.

Natural light streams in through the large windows in the common area during the day where the kitchen island overlooks the back patio and garden.

Once in a while, you may lock eyes

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with one of the six semi-domesticated ostriches through the window, they roam the compound and farm freely and are often found relaxing on the Farmhouse patio. The self catered house sleeps eight (six adults and two children) in four ensuite rooms comfortably. There are two bedrooms off of the common area, one with a queen bed and the other with a triple. Across the main house in an adjacent room is the "honeymoon suite" with a queen bed and additional privacy, ideal for a couple.

A stone's throw away nestled in the mangroves of the farm and made from a reclaimed wood cabin is Eco Treehouse. Above the treeline, on the expansive balcony you get 180 views of Mt. Kenya and the Aberdere range on a clear day. The cozy Treehouse has

two ensuite rooms with double beds.

The Treehouse is self-contained with an open plan kitchenette and living area for unobstructed views and can be rented together, or separate from the Farmhouse. A spacious deck is the life of the treehouse as it gives you unmatched views of the farm by day, and a star struck night sky.

Both properties are an escape from the city life. Without WiFi, you're encouraged to explore the farm (you're welcome to pick fresh fruit and vegetables for your meals), fish at the dam, or hike and bike around the property.

The farm tours make this visit all the more worthwhile. Exotic fruits hanging within reach, bees buzzing everywhere, hundreds of species of insects, beautiful

flowers waiting to bear fruit. There is plenty to explore, taste, and discover!

As much as you are encouraged to unplug and unwind, there is strong cell service on the property if need be. The property is ideally situated within easy reach to outdoor adventures such as white water rafting in Sagana, Castle Forest Lodge, Chania Falls, and Ragati Forest.

Eco Farmhouse and Eco Treehouse are a truly unique escape from city life that are within reach. A great experience for a group of friends or for a family looking to get away and disconnect. A visit to this property will have you feeling like you can, and will, do this more often.

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The dusty scrubland of Lolldaiga

for “World Peace” were swapped for

Churchill to James Bond, Idris Elba

paints a picture of untouched quiet.

engine revs and incline challenges.

and Marilyn Monroe. It's a car that

50,000 acres of rolling hills and

has fairly attained cult status, served

varying vegetation. We were there

The Land Rover has had a prolific

the British military for years and does

on a mission quite literally driven by

and colourful history over seven

what it says on the tin. Nothing more,

the opportunity to meet classic car

decades. Shortly after World War II,

nothing less. Here in the Kenyan bush

aficionado (to put it lightly), Ed, his

the Rover car company struggled to

however, the Defender has found a real

partner in crime, Moon and the most

sell their luxury cars in Britain and

sense of belonging under the tutelage

adorable sidekick one could ever have,

Europe. They decided to create a work-

of challenging terrain and impossibly

their daughter Romily.

horse that fulfilled the needs of the

rugged landscapes.

agricultural industry and farmers in A while back, Land Rover asked

Britain and in 1948, the Land Rover

For Land Rover owners and collectors,

the Nomad team to test drive the

Series 1 was born. In 73 years, the

this utilitarian vehicle is a source

brand new Land Rover Defender

car has gone through 6 iterations

of countless hours and shillings of

and of course we decided to put it

including the Series II, Series III,

conversation, research and investment.

through the paces alongside Ed’s

Land Rover 90 & 110, the Defender

While that sounds like an apt

classic Land Rovers to see how they

in 1990 and the Defender reboot in

description of a hobby, one would

fared in comparison to one another.

2020. It also had its fair share of

turn up our nose at such a label. It's

A modelling contest of sorts where

famous superfans and photobombers,

undoubtedly a way of life rooted in an

mundane responses around the desire

from Queen Elizabeth and Winston

ethos of simplicity, perseverance and

The Safari Series

By Ami Doshi Shah

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adventure. Ed and Moon’s hospitality

to congregate in front of the mess

While some guests might come here

endeavour, The Safari Series is in the

tent), to cars, to identity politics. In an

specifically to drive the Series I,

same vein, it is much more than just a

insightful conversation with Ed and

we’re also about walking, fly camping,

camp. It’s an opportunity to immerse

Moon one afternoon, Ed said that the

sleeping under the stars and we wanted

yourself in the stunning wilds of

“Land Rovers are just one aspect to

to be able to offer people the chance

Laikipia, from the camp itself (with

the experience of The Safari Series.”

to do that without an impossible price

laudable eco-credentials, might I add),

Moon mentioned, “When we started

tag. Instead of champagne sundowners,

to the chance to self-drive the seven

the camp, we had 2 main ethoses: the

we’ll just do some beers on top of the

Land Rovers in their ‘stable’, and

first being that it had to be about fun,

Baboon Cliff rocks. When we do a fly

for guests to create their own safari

adventure, and family and secondly it

camp, it's just a simple dinner cooked

experience in this iconic car.

had to be affordable.” Admittedly, they

on top of an open fire and sleeping

have filled a massive gap in the market

under the stars. Over time, safaris

From the moment our team arrived

with both these pillars particularly in

have become this bourgeois activity

at the camp, we were taken in by the

the domestic tourism market where

that has crossed the horizon of what

couples’ innate passion and knowledge

accommodation in Laikipia can come

is accessible to the majority of people.

on a plethora of topics, ranging from

with an eye-watering price. For the

But what a safari is actually about is

birds (Ed insisted that all leftovers

couple, the Land Rover became a

inspiring people to really connect with

from our meals be put on the bird

symbol of something greater. For Ed,

the natural world and learning and

feeding platform to coax the 350+

“The Land Rover is a working man's

exploring what is around you.”

bird species that call Laikipia home

car...a car for anyone and everyone.

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It was hard not to be in awe of this

white storks floating in the distance.

so. The newest sequel to the cultural

couple who had taken their experience,

The Kenyan version of “Swan Lake”. It

icon is more sinew-y and has curves

savings and turned their passion

was all beyond memorable and may I

in unexpected places. Sharp edges and

into a hospitality business by sheer

say… fun.

distinct planes mark the design ethos of Land Rover’s past; utility through

willpower, vision and purpose. We were We successfully put the cars through

and through. But we were asked to

their paces. The Series I pickup

test the power, endurance, reliability

Over 4 days, the couple joined us with

had some stops and starts with a

and comfort of the new Defender

their Series I, Series II, Defender 110

few nudges from the nose end of

and it was indulgently delivered.

alongside the newest Defender racing

the classic Defender 110. Of course,

Sometimes an adventure is about the

alongside disused dams, climbing

the brand spanking new Defender

joy in encountering and resolving the

exposed cliff rock faces, and careening

performed exceptionally well despite

unexpected. A conversation, a meal, a

along morram roads where clouds of

the naysayers. Between Nairobi and

different perspective, a broken down

pale orange dust fluttered like a halo

Laikipia, at every stop, onlookers were

car, an experience like no other. On

and settled on the skin like chalk.

more than happy to indulge their

that, The Safari Series Team also

We raced alongside giraffes and had

opinion on the shiny upgrade to this

wholeheartedly delivered.

sundowners around a campfire with

cultural mainstay, understandably

unequivocally sold.

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Under The Baobab Lazy Days BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

What’s not to love about Diani

Honoured to have been hosted by

The Lazy Days grounds offer complete

beach? The sand remains white as

the new management team - Luca

privacy from any neighbours, and has

snow, the water turquoise blue, the

and Giulia, they made my stay extra

private beach access walkway that

seafood abundant and fresh, and

special introducing me to the amenities

allows you to be steps from the beach.

the environment and experience

offered at their establishment. As

Every morning I would walk to the

breathtaking. Having returned to Diani

soon as I arrived, I was blown away.

beach for a morning dip in the ocean

Beach numerous times over the years,

This completely refurbished colonial-

before returning for my morning coffee

Diani still offers all the essential

style house is on an exclusive private

under expansive veranda that runs

ingredients for replenishing tired

property centred around the most

across the entirety of the house.

minds and bodies. On my latest trip, I

iconic baobad tree I have ever seen.

wanted to find that “hidden gem” that

The well-designed home has two

The most memorable part at Lazy Days

separated my trip from all the others.

identical wings, perfect for a group of

was the feeling of serenity, privacy, and

I definitely found it at Lazy Days –

friends, or a few families to stay. I was

simple indulgence. You can happily

undoubtedly the most fascinating,

truly transported to another world away

enjoy a cocktail by the quietly situated

enchanting, and world-class holiday

from the hustle and bustle of Nairobi

pool, escape to the well- equipped gym

home to hit the Kenyan coast.

– definitely a check mark on my bucket

or spa, and then find yourself on an

list of extraordinary places to relax and

evening stroll on the beach.

enjoy.

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You also don’t just eat meals when

launched fine dining restaurant in a

Diani is calling, and Lazy Days is

staying at Lazy Days, you have a

private wine cellar. Of course, there

beckoning you to enjoy something

“culinary experience” at world-class

was always the option to remain at

extraordinary – something beyond

food establishments, Nomad Beach

Lazy Days and be dined by a private

belief.

Bar and Grill or Induldge – the newly

chef under the baobab tree and stars.

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Cheetah Connections

Lions are widely reputed to be the only truly social big cat, but you’d be forgiven for questioning the traditional wisdom of this sentiment after observing cheetahs in the field for any length of time, writes Mark Smeltz Three days into my latest safari in

figures of five individual cheetahs.

with the

Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve,

Cat rested upon cat; tails flicked and

Fast Five,

I’d already enjoyed quite a show. I

ears twitched; spots mingled together

I certainly

scored front-row seats to a sparring

to weave a contiguous tapestry of

developed

match between two Thomson’s gazelles

tawny fur. Although they weren’t

doubts of my own.

clashing over territory, watched as a

exactly living up to their reputation—

I watched as one cheetah or another

clan of hyenas played keep-away with

in fact, they were reclined in various

periodically roused itself, only to

a day-old wildebeest kill, and marveled

states of repose ranging from the

collapse into sleep next to another

as a lilac-breasted roller landed

simply indolent to the unequivocally

member of the coalition. The cats were

amongst a cluster termites and feasted

comatose—there was no doubt about it:

seeking physical contact with each

to its heart’s content.

these cheetahs represented the Mara’s

other: an unmistakable hallmark of

famous Fast Five coalition.

social bonding. But why has this social

But the Mara always delivers in

behavior of the cheetah gone under-

spades, and it had another surprise in

Lions are widely reputed to be the

store. As the sun reached its zenith,

only truly social big cat, but you’d be

we discovered a sprawl of golden-

forgiven for questioning the traditional

Cheetahs are born into litters of about

coated forms lying prone under the

wisdom of this sentiment after

four cubs, which are raised by their

boughs of a blackwood. These shapes

observing cheetahs in the field for any

mother. They learn to feed and hunt

soon resolved into the unmistakable

length of time. Spending the afternoon

until reaching maturity after about

reported?

C O N S E R VA T I O N

15 months. Then females begin a

project in 2011 and quickly became

prey, mitigating internal conflict,

solitary lifestyle, until they have their

one of the foremost experts on Kenya’s

and directing movement across their

own offspring. But while males may

fastest cats, establishing an exhaustive

territory. This form of leadership

also strike out to pursue the lives of

cheetah identification database and

is specific to mixed coalitions;

lone hunters, sometimes they stick

gathering data to ensure the species’

individual cats hold equal status in

together. And that’s where things get

survival. Naturally, she was first on my

groups comprised entirely of siblings.

complicated.

list when I needed help understanding

But no matter who’s in charge, each

cheetah coalitions like the Fast Five.

cheetah benefits from being part of the

“Cheetah sociality is a very interesting

coalition.

and complex topic,” says Dr. Elena

Chelysheva published her latest

Chelysheva, project manager of the

findings about these nuanced social

The most readily apparent advantage

Mara-Meru Cheetah Project. This

relationships in Swara, a quarterly

of male coalitions pertains to hunting.

research organization studies cheetah

magazine printed by the East African

East African cheetahs are known to

populations in the Maasai Mara

Wildlife Society. “I actually dedicated

favor Thomson’s gazelle; this small

my article to the coalition of five

antelope can be easily managed by

males,” Chelysheva remarks. The

most adults. But its diminutive size

Fast Five—or Tano Bora, as they’re

means that it doesn’t provide much

locally known—have clearly made

food. That’s why cheetahs often fill out

an impression on her. Distilling

their diets with animals like hares and

years of data collection, she shows

warthogs. But you shouldn’t expect to

how the coalition is led by two

see a lone cheetah attempt a big-ticket

ecosystem and Meru Conservation Area.

Chelysheva formed the

unrelated males which share the responsibilities of selecting

meal like a zebra or adult wildebeest on its own: for that, even the sturdiest of these cats needs a little help.

“From my observations, males in coalitions do go after larger prey than single cheetahs or even mothers with single cubs,” explains Dr. Anne Hilborn. Hilborn earned her PhD studying cheetahs in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park with the Serengeti Cheetah Project.

Her research involved recording hunting behavior, prey selection, and competition with other predators.

“Especially when the wildebeest migration is occurring,” she says, “coalitions of two to three males will bring down large calves of yearling

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C O N S E R VA T I O N

wildebeest frequently.” When large

unrelated males joining up to form a

more cubs, we still don’t know,” she

prey isn’t available, coalitions may

coalition.” These smaller groups may

cautions. More research is needed to

split up into smaller groups to make

not enjoy as many hunting advantages,

answer these and other questions, like

multiple kills. This is a great strategy

but they do reap other rewards by

why some males join coalitions and

for supergroups like the Fast Five, but

functioning as part of a team.

others don’t. It’s fortunate that groups

not all coalitions are created equally.

like the Fast Five remain accessible to Groups of cheetahs can remain more

researchers, exhibiting normal behavior

“During the time I worked in the

fully aware of their surroundings,

while under continuous observation.

Serengeti,” Hilborn recalls, “all of the

helping each other to stay alert for

coalitions we tracked were two to three

other potentially dangerous predators.

While the Fast Five is the most well-

individuals.” Larger-sized groups may

An injured cheetah can also rely on

known cheetah coalition today, there

be attributable to the availability of

its coalition to obtain prey while it

are other examples of cooperation

local resources or the number of male

recovers. Chelysheva’s research in the

among these big cats. Social media has

siblings in a litter. “What we often saw

Mara has even shown that cheetah

made it possible for anyone to track

in the Serengeti are

coalitions can

two single

access

their favorite cheetahs, keeping up-todate with online posts from the field.

“There are several historical male coalitions who were famous within the Cheetah Project,” Hilborn says, “but at the time we didn’t have a way to share their stories with wide audiences.”

Hilborn regrets that she couldn’t relate the sagas of former coalitions like Richard and Armitage or Bradley and Cooper.

preferential territory, choosing favorable terrain for hunting or areas more densely populated with prey.

With strength in numbers, a coalition can also reduce competition from other

But there’s a risk in following wild animals too closely. “Getting emotionally attached to male coalitions is tough,” she explains. “They don’t live very long and can disappear

cheetahs.

or die at any time. It can be tricky

But Hilborn advises that holding

invested emotionally with your study

more territory can’t be used as the sole benchmark of success. “Whether holding a territory leads to fathering

to build an audience online who is animals, and then have to tell them that the individual they care about has disappeared.” So whether a large coalition like the Fast Five represents an enduring feature of the ecosystem or (more likely) a momentary flash in the pan, we should appreciate these manifestations of cheetah behavior while they last. They can teach us a lot about the species’ long-term prospects for survival—not to mention something essential about the nature of life itself in the African bush.

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ADVER TORIAL

Home Away From Home The best beach holidays leave you romanticizing a life by the ocean; the salty ocean air volumizes your hair in ways Pantene could never formulate, your skin glows in the late afternoon sun, your kids no longer spend their days in front of screens but instead learn by exploring the natural habitat around you. the natural habitat around you. Most of all, you imagine what home would feel like: mornings with fresh tropical fruit, coffee and tea set on the patio overlooking the ocean, lunch and dinner determined by the fisherman’s catch of the day, daily walks on the secluded beach, the creature comforts of home in an exotic environment. Chingwede House turns this wishful thinking into a

reality.

Set on a cliff 40 feet above the sweeping white sand of Msambweni beach sits the beautiful Chingwede House. From this vantage point, you can watch the fishermen's dhows silently come in to dock at sunrise. The house is surrounded by doum palms and a forest of indigenous trees assuring your privacy during your stay. Chingwede sleeps 8 guests and is therefore ideal for families or a group of friends looking for a private escape. The house has plenty of activities to enjoy, from visiting Funzi Island and exploring the sandbar to diving in Shimoni or snorkeling in Kisite Marine Park.

Chingwede House BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

Chingwede House comes fully staffed; Chef Hassan is known to create some of the best Swahili dishes with local delicacies, his fish and seafood repertoire is extensive.Hamisi, the Maitre’d, ensures everything runs smoothly at all times.

Your stay at Chingwede House will remind you of the rural coastal experience 30 years ago.

The environs are untouched and the beaches relatively empty. Standing at the pool's edge, taking in the 180 degree views of the ocean, listening to the bird life and the coconut palms blowing in the wind, imagining a life in Msambweni suddenly doesn’t feel so far from reach.

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Heavenly Stay

By Ben Peterson

Heavenly House

before finally leading to the beach. The front-tier of the pool is actually in the living room - a shallow shady section where kids can be easily watched by As we unloaded our most precious (and

their more lounge-inclined parents.

hungry) cargo, it became evident that this is no normal beach house. Huge

Our introductory tour continued through

There are no signs to Heavenly House.

front doors open up to a grand central

a ground floor nautical-themed children’s

Nothing to indicate that we took the

staircase. A tasteful waterfall runs

room with two sets of bunk beds, a

right turnoff onto the right dirt path. At

behind the stairs, gently gliding into

common-area bathroom with an outdoor

the next junction we have no idea if we

two elegant pools on either side of the

shower, a stand-alone studio and a long

should go left or right. Or left or right

entrance.

dining room running directly into the living room/pool-watching area.

again. Just as we start to think we’ve made a terrible mistake and we’ll be lost

Walking around the staircase, an open

for hours with hungry children screaming

living room empties directly into a three-

Upstairs we were led through a huge

for food - boom - we found paradise.

tier pool looking over a lush garden

master bedroom with a veranda

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ADVER TOR IAL

overlooking the Indian Ocean, three

were the sporadic demands of our two-

knee deep, striding on shell-less sand

ample additional bedrooms with ensuite

year old and my daily self-flagellating jog

the entire way. My toddler daughter and I

bathrooms, and a glass encased yoga

down the beach.

spent hours and hours waddling in those

room perfect for getting your downward

shallows carefree, playing with wet sand

dog on. Continuing up, the top story is

For those with more newborn-free time,

and marvelling at the occasional glimpse

one giant wrap-around outdoor patio,

kite-surfing looked incredible. After

of a fish.

with a bar at the back and a constellation

about 1pm the winds started to pick-up

of chaise lounges with a panoramic view

and a battalion of kites hit the water.

Then, sunned out, we’d climb up the

of the ocean at the front.

Heavenly is only a few minutes walk from

short embankment to Heavenly, where

where Tribe Watersports drops people

we’d often be greeted by a troop of

I later found out Heavenly House was

in - I’m told they can get anyone gliding

monkeys hoping to snatch up any post-

designed (successfully) with great

across the water with a bit of effort.

beach snacks. After a quick hose-down

care and at great expense to feel like

Kitesurfing isn’t the only main water

to wash the sand off our feet, we’d

a sophisticated and chic Pallenberg

activity on offer - there are plenty of

plunge back into the pool, swim over

Bay home. Everything in it, including all

dolphin and whale watching tours, plus a

to the living room, towel off and lie in

the custom furnishings, were imported

plethora of snorkelling options nearby.

the warm shade until something terrible

from South Africa (for those into the

prompted us to move again.

details, interior design was led by

While all this sounds amazing, it's the

Derrick Tabbert of Kim Hutton Design in

diving that most excites me. My wife and

In one corner of the pool sits a little

Johannesburg).

I have had the great pleasure of diving

statue of Buddha. I am not a Buddhist,

around the world, but have yet to dip into

nor do I pretend to know much about it,

After a quick meal and naptime for the

Kenyan waters with tanks on our backs.

but I can tell you that a week at Heavenly

kids our main mission began - get into

For now we enjoy the family friendly

made me zen.

our chill zone. It wasn’t hard. Nearly

activities we can do together.

instantly, the soporific effects of chef

And this, I think, is why there are no

Martin’s giant seafood feasts set in. A

One of the great benefits of being

signs to Heavenly House. Once you’re

routine was soon established - eat, chill,

on Turtle Bay beach are the low-tide

there, you don’t want to leave so there is

swim, eat, chill, swim, eat, chill, go to

shallows. You can walk a few hundred

no need to find your way back.

bed. The only thing breaking up this bliss

meters into the ocean and stand only

BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

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W H AT

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PACK

2. L.G.R limited edition sunnies

1. Fujifilm X100F

Let's Go To The Beach @the_mentalyst

Who is Trevor? I love to think of myself as a visual orator. With a background in Aerospace Engineering and Software Development, I took a leap of faith into the world of film and photography and quickly fell in love with the work. My work highlights include shooting Travel, Lifestyle, and Documentaries.

I enjoy traveling. My favourite places in Kenya to visit are Lamu, The North

3. Sony A7rIV with my 24-70mm

(which I am yet to travel to), the Maasai Mara, and Amboseli.

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4. Beanie

TOP

SH O T

sandstormkenya.com 45

Msambweni Beach House

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BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel

True Meaning of Luxury Ami Doshi Shah reflects on the true meaning of luxury after a blissful coastal family getaway.

Photos by Lyra Aoko

I have a somewhat cynical relationship with the word ‘luxury’. It is a word that is thrown about with reckless abandon, used to describe things from handbags with stroke-worthy price tags to hotels and resorts that have more puffy bathroom accessories than is necessary.

There is a genuine discomfort with just how fleeting and fickle everything that word represents can often be.

It is a word. A word so loaded with opportunity for subjective interpretation.

I thought really hard about this when watching our two boys repeatedly cannonballing into the pool at Villa III, Msambweni Beach House. I was forced to count the number of knee-hugging dives my younger son made. Twenty minutes and around 30 cannonballs later, I gave up (but like any self-respecting parent, pretended I hadn’t).

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We made the 25 minute drive from Ukunda Airport in Diani to this remote spot along Kenya’s south coast.

Meandering sandy murrum roads led us to an imposing lyme-white two story house capped with a traditional Swahili makuti roof. Walking into the ornately carved and weather worn doors leading into the main resort, we were confronted by intense light. The sun reflected off the shimmering white terrazzo surrounding the infinity pool as well as every surface in the entrance, that is the bar and white walls, as though creating a gallery space to frame the most perfect picture of all. The palms fringed the view of the sea. The only concession to this were salt-tarnished brass vases stuffed with vibrant fuchsia bougainvillea and frangipani. A colourful punctuation to an unabbreviated space.

ADVER TOR IAL

Our three bedroom villa boasted a private infinity pool and a four storey high makuti roof and much the same aesthetic fingerprint as the main house - white with hints of azure and shades of green. For two days and nights, we left our villa briefly to walk on the rocky coral pools at low tide, searching for sea urchins and seashells or to the main house for a drink at the bar and wood fired pizzas. Most meals were served in our villa and like little hermits, we feasted on tempura and line-caught grilled fish. Every dish was freshly made

from local produce and served with warmth and discretion.

The remainder of our time at Msambweni Beach House was spent jumping and emerging from our pool like shriveled prunes. Days here were spent in almost perfect isolation. A time to reflect. To appreciate. To be patient with time and love. Strange how it is alway when things are stripped away and life is less distracting that you can focus. For us, it was two days of quiet, hysterical laughter, sublime nourishment and time with our growing boys - a real luxury.

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HOLIDAY

HOMES 48

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