Nomad 39 | LOVE

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LOVE November 2023 | Issue 39

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Lamu by Land and by Sea Nomad’s Top Travel Pick We’ve found the perfect match of adventure and rejuvenation in Lamu - the Manda Bay Beach Resort paired with the Tusitiri Dhow is a winning combination for those ready to find another reason to love Lamu.

Manda Bay extends beyond being a mere luxury beach

The Tusitiri Dhow is on our top picks of storied

resort. Apart from its innovative solar-powered island

accommodations - Built in 1950 in Lamu, this vessel has

lodge, the resort actively engages in a robust on-the-

seen exotic coastlines for the ages. She’s sailed to India,

ground project focused on coral restoration and land

Oman, and Yemen, just to name a few, and was part

rehabilitation. Seasoned Conservationists are at your

of the trade routes merchant culture that was linked to

disposal to share their expertise during sunset game

seasonal winds like the Kaskazi and Kusi. Modernised

drives (yes, in Lamu!), offering a unique experience

by the Astrup family, their love of the Tusitiri is clear in

within Lamu’s enchanting landscapes.

every inch. Captain Mia and his crew hoist the sail while

Your beachfront cottage will give the feeling of being on

you travel to a moment that’s beyond what you thought

a secluded island getaway with a full range of activities

possible. While you’re having an exquisite dinner, the

and modern amenities. Wake up and go for a swim

deck is transformed to the most experiential Star Bed

only meters from the water’s edge, enjoy some of their

on the planet and you’ll drift off to a comfortable sleep

renowned watersports, and finish off the day fine-dining

under the stars in the calm waters of the archipelago.

by candlelight.

Hospitality is at the heart of both Manda Bay and Tusitiri, you’ll leave feeling all is right in the world. Contact us to book this adventure, we’re already on board!

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ADVERTORIAL

Reflections on a sabbatical term at Pembroke House

As parents, we had been looking for ways to give our children a wider outlook on the world that couldn’t be gained by overseas holidays alone.

Pembroke House School has given us the opportunity to do just that.

By enrolling them for a term, they have been given a truly

the natural world.

immersive experience, not just into the school’s unique

By following a British curriculum, they haven’t been left behind

environment but also the most remarkable exposure to life in

in their studies and the term dates also correspond, so slotting

magical Kenya.

back into their UK prep school has been straightforward - only

As a family, we found a way to combine both schooling with

they now have the most remarkable memories to share and

our love of safari and have all benefitted enormously from the

feel a deep connection and love for East Africa.

diverse, yet welcoming community.

Few schools would have given our girls the endless

Our children have made life-long friendships, grown in

opportunities they have ‘tasted’ at Pembroke – horse riding

confidence, become far more inquisitive and learnt to

at sunrise, hiking up Mount Longonot and going on a Camel

overcome a number of inevitable challenges – leaving them

Safari made it into their top three ‘sabbatical’ highlights.

far better equipped for the transition into senior school.

Thanks to the ideal climate and vast campus, they have spent significantly more time outdoors, exploring and engaging with

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Kindly written by a parent, Trinity Term 2023

GUEST EDITOR'S NOTE

Message from the Guest Editor: Embracing LOVE Dear readers, I am thrilled to take the reins as the guest editor for this issue of Nomad magazine, steering our focus toward a subject that resonates deeply with me: LOVE.

As a media personality, public speaker and international

are today. We uncover stories that highlight the symbiotic

presenter, I’ve seen journeys that revolve around love in

relationship between love and the creation of spaces that

its various forms – and I’m always interested in bringing

resonate with deep meaning.

these journeys to life, in this case, through the pages of a magazine.

As we bid farewell to 2023, let's raise a toast to love in all its forms and expressions. Here's to the love

In these pages, we delve into the multifaceted facets of

that permeates family adventures, kindles the flame of

love. We explore the joys of family travel with young

romance, cherishes cultural heritage, and embarks on

kids, the essence of romance, and the discovery of those

spontaneous adventures.

unique locations that elevate romantic moments. Our exploration extends to a love for culture, celebrating

Thank you for joining us on this heartfelt journey.

the richness of heritage that shapes the landscapes we traverse. Additionally, we embrace the spontaneity and

With love,

thrill of a road trip by bus to Kigali, embodying the love

A significant thread woven throughout this issue is

Pinky Ghelani

the importance of places, particularly when love and

Pinky Ghelani

devotion contribute to their transformation into what they

Guest Editor, Nomad Magazine.

for adventure.

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In this Issue, 10.

Past & Upcoming Events

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Noteworthy events, recently and coming

The Best Starbeds in Southern Africa Learn where to stargaze in style

up

12.

Hot Shots

28.

Top Pictures by African photographers

20.

Most Romantic Places in Kenya Love Blooms: Kenya's Most Enchanting Escapes

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A Love for Culture & Heritage Looking at Lamu’s Kinooni House

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Neem Tree Chronicles Love & Laughter on the Kenyan Coast

C O N T PE A N GT SE

32. A Love of Wellness

40.

Exploring the Kilifi Wellness Festival

Road Trip From Nairobi to Kigali by bus

36. Family Travel

44.

Creating cherished memories with kids

Gift Guide Spotlight on East African brands

46.

24 hours in Dar Es Salaam

By Francesca De Gottardo

Nomad expresses gratitude to Evgeniya Savina for sharing the House on the Ridge photograph, as well as to all the lodges featured in this magazine for generously contributing their imagery.

NOMAD Issue 39 | November 2023 | PUBLISHED BY PURPLE NOMAD, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DIRECTORS Ben Peterson, Jan Van der Does de Willebois, Mikul Shah CEO Lizzie Wright HEAD OF CONTENT Ludo Fioravanti INTERNATIONAL MANAGER Shawn Graaff GUEST EDITOR Pinky Ghelani DESIGN Karan Khalsa TRAVEL OPERATIONS MANAGER Carol Soi EXPERIENCE BUILDER Ann Wambui FINANCE & ADMIN LEAD Wambui Everlyne ENQUIRIES bookings@nomad.africa

NomadAfricaTravel

@NomadAfricaTravel

@nomadafricatravel

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PAST EVENTS

Top Events in Kenya in 2023: A Year to Remember

By Pinky Ghelani

As we bid farewell to 2023, it's time to reflect on the

climate change and celebrating the rich cultural

significant events that made headlines and captured our

tapestry of the nation, 2023 was a year of diversity and

hearts in Kenya. From empowering women to addressing

dynamism.

RefuShe Style Challenge: A Colorful Showcase of Talent Ankole played host to the RefuShe Style Challenge, an event that beautifully showcased the resilience and creativity of refugees. This event featured top Kenyan designers alongside talented designers who have fled their home countries. The runway was adorned with a kaleidoscope of colours, celebrating diversity and fashion as a powerful means of expression.

Africa Climate Summit: A Call for Urgent Action

Canadian High Commission's International Women's Day Celebration

In an era where climate change is a pressing global

In March, the Canadian High Commission in Kenya

concern, Kenya played a pivotal role in hosting the Africa Climate Summit. The summit was a week-long event filled with various activities and spin-off events that aimed to drive progress and awareness toward a sustainable future.

hosted a remarkable event to celebrate International Women's Day. Women gathered at the High Commissioner's residence in Rosslyn to mentor and inspire young women from universities and colleges.

This event served as a powerful platform for networking, sharing experiences, and empowering the next generation of female leaders.

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UPCOMING EVENTS

The Little Mermaid Premiere: A Star-Studded Affair The premiere of "The Little Mermaid" was a glitzy and star-studded affair that not only celebrated young women but also promoted discussions on relevant issues. The event featured a panel discussion with prominent figures such as Wahu Kagwi and Just Ivy, and it was expertly hosted by Ariyana Sehmi.

This event highlighted the importance of empowering and inspiring the youth.

Events to Look Forward to in 2024: As we look ahead to 2024, Kenya promises to continue

lives. Here are a few events to mark on your calendar:

delivering captivating events that inspire and enrich our

Kilifi Wellness Festival

What Women Want Summit 2024

The Kilifi Wellness Festival is an eagerly anticipated

The "What Women Want Summit 2024" is set to be a

event, promising a unique fusion of health, wellness, and

three-day extravaganza celebrating and empowering

cultural experiences. It's an opportunity to rejuvenate

women. This event will delve into the conversations that

your body, mind, and spirit while immersing yourself in

surround women, addressing issues, and driving positive

the beauty of Kenya's coastal region.

change.

As we close the chapter on 2023 and eagerly anticipate

and culture take center stage. Let's look forward to a

the events of 2024, Kenya continues to be a dynamic

year filled with remarkable experiences and meaningful

and vibrant nation, where the voices of women, the fight

connections.

against climate change, and the celebration of diversity

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HOTSHOTS

I'm Kagz, or Samuel Kaguora, a versatile individual and creative visual storyteller based in Nairobi, Kenya.

About six years ago, my photography journey began when my wife surprised me with a Nikon D7200. Initially, I stored it away, but with time, as a self-taught photographer, my style evolved.

Whether in my studio (Eterno Concepts), at events, or exploring street and travel scenes, I aim to tell captivating stories through my lens, capturing the essence of every moment.

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HOTSHOTS

I am Neil Thomas, photographer born and raised in Kenya.

I’ve spent a lot of time in Northern Kenya over the years and I’ve shot Mt Ololokwe (Sabache) many times but have been looking for a new angle. My friend Paul Ltaipi Lekominga (also the Moran in the picture) said he knew of just the right place and this was it.

One of the few evenings we went out there, everything aligned perfectly to create one of my favourite images.

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HOTSHOTS

Peter Ndung’u, an acclaimed travel, documentary, and wildlife photographer from Nairobi, Kenya, has spent a decade capturing the splendor of Africa.

His work, featured globally on platforms like Apple, Canon, National Geographic, and CNN, advocates for wildlife conservation and showcases Africa's beauty.

As part of Canon’s Generation R, he contributed to the launch of Canon’s EOS R series in Africa. His captivating storytelling revolves around people, nature and wildlife.

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MAIN FEATURE

The 10 Most Romantic Places in Kenya Nilpa is the intrepid explorer and devoted traveller behind 'The Soul Traveller' blog. Her vivid narratives aim not just to inspire travel in Kenya but to craft enduring memories, ones that will be cherished with heartfelt nostalgia.

Follow Nilpa @thesoultravellerke

Every now and again I search for a place where

By Nilpa Shah

fluently!

every sunset is a masterpiece, where love lives in the air and where time stands still. And Kenya?

She never disappoints. Get ready for my Top 10 Most Romantic places in Kenya; with destinations

Plan your next romantic getaway with us

so dreamy, even Cupid would be jealous!

From the salty beach kisses to candlelight dinners under the stars; from sunrises in the bush to hot mandazis in the wild… there is love in the raw wilderness. After all, love is a universal language; and these destinations? They speak it

1. My Amani by Tribal Sand; Vipingo.

2. Kipalo Hills by Secluded Africa; Tsavo

Imagine walking on the soft sands on a moonlit beach

Perched on the side of the Mbulia Hills, Kipalo is one

with the waves whispering sweet nothings in your ears.

of those lodges you keep coming back to. Set in a lush

Top this up with an exclusive luxury villa that opens up to

green conservancy with endless views of elephants at the

a private infinity pool and hot tub overlooking the Indian

watering hole and Mt Kilimanjaro in the horizon; they

Ocean: A beachfront haven where love meets the gentle

offer an enchanting backdrop for love to thrive on safari.

lull of the waves.

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MAIN FEATURE

3. Elephant Gorge Camp; Amboseli

4. Lentorre Lodge; Magadi

With the thrill of intimate wildlife encounters from your

Hidden deep in the heart of the Rift Valley, lies the Oasis

room, views of Mt Kilimanjaro from your bed, and

of Lentorre. From watching the well-visited watering hole

panoramic views of the savannah from the bush bathtub

to cooling off in the private plunge pools overlooking

– This was Love at first sight for me! Amidst the untamed

Mt. Shompole, there is magic here that can only be felt.

beauty of the dusty Amboseli plains, every sunset here

If I could single out the heartbeat of Kenya – this would

became a treasured memory of love.

be it.

5. House on the Ridge; Ngong

6. Ishara; Masai Mara

Barely an hour from the city; this rustic home is the kind

In the wild and untamed Mara, amidst the fiery sunsets

of place to run away to when the city gets tough. With

and whispers of the savannah; Ishara is the ultimate

a loft room that gives you bed views of both the sunrise

canvas of love. With their attention to detail, exclusivity

and the sunset, and a sundowner deck for a real-life time

and meaningful spaces; even the loudest of snores from

lapse of the sunset – you’ll find my silhouette dancing to

your partner sounds like music in the wild. It is no secret

the sunset more than once here.

that love blossoms here under the African sun.

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7. Chui Lodge; Naivasha

8. Segera Retreat; Laikipia

Everything about Chui Lodge makes me giddy with joy!

In the dramatic backdrop of Kenya’s finest savannah,

From spotting leopards on night game drives to swimming

Segera is nothing but wild luxury where you sleep in a

to the view of the watering hole; from their intimately

nest with a 360-degree birds-eye view from their exotic

built rooms to bush breakfasts with their resident Dik Dik

Nay Palad Bird Nest. It is particularly magical at dawn

– Chui – she will weave you a timeless love story.

when the clouds cling to the woodlands creating a romantic seclusion amidst the wilderness’s embrace.

9. Soroi Larsens Camp; Samburu

10. Desert Rose; Turkana

In the heart of Samburu, perched serenely on the banks

I found love smack in the middle of the cradle of mankind

of the Ewaso Nyiro River; Soroi Larsens is a sanctuary

– where love stories are etched against the backdrop

where love knows no bounds. You can experience the

of the arid landscapes of Northern Kenya. Whether it’s

untamed beauty in their eco-conscious camp between

a soak in their cedarwood bathtub, or lounging under

intimate sundowners and star gazing in the mysterious

the starlit canopy of Turkana’s night sky; you are sure to

whispers of the African night.

discover unmatched intimacy in this secluded oasis

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ADVERTORIAL

Chale Island: Kenya’s revamped private island escape Welcome to the all-new Chale Island,

Elevate your culinary journey at our seven

where indulgence meets nature's splendor.

new Food and Beverage outlets, each

Our resort has undergone a remarkable

offering a unique gastronomic adventure.

transformation, inviting you to experience

From local delicacies to international

paradise in its purest form.

cuisines, our chefs blend flavors to perfection, satisfying the most discerning

Witness the island's fresh identity

palates.

through our rebranded logo, symbolizing our dedication to modern elegance

For thrill-seekers, our revamped Watersport

and unmatched hospitality. Discover a

offerings provide exhilarating experiences,

sanctuary of serenity within our newly

from scuba diving to kayaking, promising

designed rooms, meticulously crafted to

endless aquatic adventures.

provide a haven of tranquility. For those seeking romance, our exclusive Water

Chale Island Resort: luxury, nature,

Villa offers intimate seclusion, making it an

adventure. Book now.

ideal choice for honeymooners or special

info@thesandsatchaleisland.com

celebrations.

+254 709 538880

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MAIN FEATURE

Stargazing in Style: Southern Africa’s Most Enchanting Starbeds From Kenya's Lamu archipelago to the remote expanses of Namibia’s Naukluft National Park and the wilds of South Africa, let's explore the best starbeds that redefine the art of sleeping under the stars.

Explore the most incredible destinations where you can

opportunity to immerse yourself in the raw beauty of

experience the African wilderness beneath the pristine,

Africa, where the night comes alive with the brilliance

star-studded night sky. For those of you seeking an

of stars, providing an unparalleled experience under the

unparalleled experience, these places offer a unique

celestial canopy.

Tusitiri Dhow | Kenya

Loisaba Star Beds | Kenya

Tusitiri Dhow is a floating haven of tranquillity. Anchored

Located in the heart of Laikipia, Kenya, the Loisaba Star

in the calm waters of the Indian Ocean, this exquisite

Beds offer a unique experience beneath the African

dhow-turned-luxury accommodation offers a unique

night sky. Perched on a ridge overlooking a vast valley,

stargazing experience. Imagine being gently rocked to

these open-air accommodations provide an uninterrupted

sleep under a canopy of stars, with the distant sounds of

view of the stars. Draped with billowing mosquito nets,

the ocean lulling you into a peaceful slumber. The gentle

they ensure both comfort and an immersive view of

creaking of the dhow harmonizes with the whispers of

the constellations. As you lie back, you'll find yourself

the sea, creating a symphony of nature under the vast

enchanted by a celestial panorama, where shooting stars

African sky.

paint streaks across the ink-black canvas.

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MAIN FEATURE

Tswalu Malori | South Africa In the vastness of the Kalahari Desert, Tswalu Malori offers a starlit sanctuary. Located within the Tswalu Kalahari Reserve in South Africa, this exclusive starbed promises an intimate connection with the cosmos.

The Malori sleep-out deck is lavishly equipped with a comfortable bed, inviting you to savour the solitude of the desert night. Surrounded by the sounds of the Kalahari and the brilliance of the stars above, it's an experience that leaves an indelible mark on your soul.

Ngala Treehouse | South Africa In the heart of the iconic Kruger National Park, the

experience is nothing short of magical. The gentle rustle

Ngala Treehouse stands as a testament to refined

of leaves and the distant calls of nocturnal creatures

wilderness living. Elevated high above the ground, this

create a mesmerising nighttime melody, transforming your

luxurious treehouse allows guests to sleep in the embrace

sleep into a symphony of nature.

of ancient trees. Unveiling a canopy of stars, the

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Xigeria Baobab Suites | Botswana In the heart of Botswana’s wilderness, the Xigeria Baobab Suites offer an exclusive starlit retreat. Set amidst indigenous Croton trees, a steel structure resembling a baobab tree rises 10 meters above the floodplain, offering panoramic views from its three levels.

The clear African night sky becomes your ceiling, and the distant calls of wildlife create a harmonious soundtrack. Here, luxury meets the primal allure of the wild, offering a star-bed experience that is both indulgent and soul-stirring.

Little Kulala Lodge Rooftop Star-Bed | Namibia Amidst the otherworldly landscapes of Namibia’s Naukluft National Park, the Little Kulala Lodge offers a rooftop star-bed experience that redefines luxury.

The rooftop terrace, furnished with a sumptuous bed, provides an intimate setting for stargazing. Surrounded by the haunting beauty of the desert, you can marvel at the celestial dance overhead, losing yourself in the vastness of the universe.

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CONSERVATION

Preserving Heritage: Kinooni House, Lamu Old Town’s Timeless Gem Nestled in the heart of Lamu Old Town, Kinooni House stands tall, telling a story stretching the past to the present. In Kiswahili, “Kinooni” means “the place of the sharpening stone” and just outside the house a few steps down the road is a slab of stone that local fishermen and villagers used to sharpen their knives.

Book your stay at Kinooni with Nomad Africa

Kinooni House, once belonging to the head Omani

marvel. But this wasn’t just about restoring the past;

representative during Lamu's Oman rule, embarked

it was about honouring tradition while embracing the

on a transformative journey, evolving from neglect to

present.

a magnificent oasis under the stewardship of Michel and Marcel. This labour of love, a meticulous ten-year

Kinooni House goes beyond being a mere residence;

endeavour, has resulted in a stunning masterpiece that

it stands as a haven of tranquillity, ideal for groups

pays homage to Lamu's rich past.

desiring both companionship and seclusion. With its extensive terraces, caressed by the warm Lamu breeze,

Constructed originally in the 18th century by the Lamu

it provides generous room for socializing with friends or

Governor, this house has witnessed centuries of history.

finding moments of quiet reflection. The four bedrooms

Michel, along with the skilled hands of Quresh, a

are cleverly sectioned off, each with its private communal

contractor with roots deeply entwined with the house,

area, ensuring intimacy amid a group setting. The lush

embarked on the mission to restore this architectural

greenery enveloping the terraces and the inviting pool

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create a serene oasis, drawing you in for a moment

furnishings were meticulously curated, employing locally

of relaxation. And don't miss the star-gazing terrace

sourced materials and talent. Contemporary designs,

– a perfect spot to marvel at the night sky's wonders.

inspired by traditional Swahili patterns, seamlessly blend

This little haven at the top of the house offers an

the old with the new, adding a touch of modernity to the

unparalleled view of Lamu's Old Town during the day.

house's timeless allure.

As night descends, it transforms into the perfect spot for uninterrupted stargazing, where the vast African sky

Beyond the physical restoration, Michel and Marcel's

comes alive with a myriad of twinkling stars, painting a

vision extends into the virtual realm with the

breathtaking canvas overhead.

groundbreaking project, Lamu Virtual. In an ambitious endeavour to bring Lamu into the metaverse, Michel,

A striking feature of Kinooni House is its 'vdaka,' an

alongside the remarkable local visionary Abutwalib,

exposed piece of wall where riches were once displayed.

has pioneered an initiative that immerses individuals

Both Michel and Marcel have adorned this space with an

in Lamu’s history, culture, and conservation efforts

intriguing collection of mementoes gathered from around

online. This innovative project opens new avenues for

the world. This eclectic touch adds a unique character to

interaction, allowing people to experience Lamu's iconic

the house, weaving a tale of its own within the historic

events, such as the Lamu Yoga Festival and the Lamu

walls.

Cultural Festival, remotely. Abutwalib's ingenuity shone through when he presented this idea to a UN group in

One of the most captivating aspects of Kinooni House

Namibia, subsequently connecting with Michel upon his

lies in its innovative use of coral, a building material

return to Lamu. Together, they are working tirelessly to

abundant on Manda Island. Coral and limestone have

map the island and transform it into a captivating online

been the cornerstones of Lamu's architectural heritage.

experience.

Michel and Marcel, however, saw more than just bricks; they saw an opportunity for art and ingeniously

In essence, Kinooni House stands not just as a restored

transformed this traditional material into decorative

architectural marvel but as a beacon of conservation,

coral balls that adorn the house. These pieces not only

bridging the gap between the past and the future. Michel

showcase local craftsmanship but also breathe life

and Marcel's unwavering commitment and Abutwalib's

into the ancient building techniques, bridging the gap

innovative spirit have elevated Lamu’s legacy, offering the

between the past and the present.

world a glimpse into its rich tapestry of history, culture, and heritage, both physically and virtually. Stay tuned

Moreover, Kinooni House stands as a testament to

for more updates as Lamu Virtual transforms the way we

dedication to the local community. All designs and

connect with this extraordinary island.

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STORY

Neem Tree Chronicles: Love and Laughter on the Kenyan Coast

Nestled along the Kenyan coast, Neem Tree house is a testament to family, love, and dreams. Once a dilapidated cottage, it transformed into a sanctuary amid lush neem trees, witnessing the arrival of new life and countless cherished moments. Now open to guests, it invites you to experience the warmth of family, the magic of love, and the beauty of dreams come true.

By Lyndsey McIntyre

Our story commences when my mother-in-law Liliana

neem trees that offer the garden so much shade. But

purchased a somewhat run-down cottage on the cliff at

it's more than just a name; it's a symbol. The neem

the end of Kuruwitu Beach, Vipingo. Alongside her ever-

tree, renowned for its healing properties and essential

supportive husband, they embarked on its renovation,

oils, mirrors the essence of our haven—a place of

turning it into a spacious 3 bedroomed house. A year or

transformation and rejuvenation.

so later, I went down to arrange the rudimentary pieces of furniture… and there I fell in love with Neem Tree.

We set out on a remarkable journey to bring our aspirations to life, crafting the infinity pool of our

The name of the house pays homage to the magnificent

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dreams. Next to it, a lavish pool house emerged,

unexpected arrival 3 weeks early (after a very long snorkel) was something of an adventure, but we spent an amazing few weeks bonding in the house after her birth.

Vipingo's allure has grown within Kenya, gifting us with wonderful places to experience and explore, including Vipingo Ridge with its PGA golf course and wildlife sanctuary. However, the crown jewel is ‘Oceans Alive’, an award-winning marine conservancy that has sprung to life right on our doorstep. Heading down our steps and strolling along the pristine and often deserted beach to swim, snorkel, or have lunch at the Beach Bar is something people dream of. As I write, my younger daughter, Shae, is working for the conservancy and both children share our passion and know the gift that this extraordinary project has been to us. becoming the focal point of our days. Here, amidst the

Since our lives couldn't be interwoven with Neem Tree

African stars, guests indulge in serene massages and

on a full-time basis, we decided to share the magic with

vibrant gatherings, creating unforgettable moments

others, renting it out as a holiday home, which has been

beneath the night sky. The garden matured into an

a great success and helped educate our children. As we

oasis with frangipani, desert roses and colourful

cast our gaze towards the future, we hope to continue to

bougainvillaea flourishing alongside the giant neem

open Neem House’s doors to visitors, friends, and, with

trees at the front of the house.

any luck, the pitter-patter of little feet belonging to our future grandchildren.

We created a ‘moon-upper’ deck—a small, romantic cliff-top seating area. This is the stage for gatherings

Amid love, laughter, and the exquisite Kenyan Coast,

where we can come together, sharing laughter and

Neem Tree stands as a testament to the power of family

stories as we watch the moonrise over the tranquil sea or

and the magic of making a home. We invite you to

the dramatic crashing of the waves at neap tides, trying

embrace the whimsy of our journey, where hearts find a

to shield our sundowner drinks from the spray whilst

place to thrive, and dreams become reality.

the kids often sit on the steps carved out of the rocks to catch the full brunt of the cascade with much squealing.

My love for travel has taken me to some of the best shopping destinations on the planet and each destination leaves an imprint on my soul. Every return from a voyage brings with it unique mementoes and vibrant fabrics that often find their place at Neem Tree. These keepsakes tell a story, weaving a tapestry of love, adventure, and unforgettable experiences.

It was this ambience that made me opt to spend the last weeks of my pregnancy at the house and have my first daughter, Saskia, in Mombasa. Given that this was before the advent of mobile phones in Kenya, her

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STORY

A LOVE of Wellness Tamara is the author of the Karibu Kenya Accommodation Guide. She is also the co-founder of Exclusive Ethiopia, a bespoke holiday bookings service in Ethiopia. She is a yoga teacher, and loves reading, writing, travelling and chasing the sun.

By Tamara Britten

There’s no better time to celebrate love than Valentine’s

fast-growing industry is because people today feel a

week, and why not celebrate it with some love for

deep need for wellness. We have just lived through a

yourself at the Kilifi Wellness Festival.

pandemic which has shown us that our health is crucial and not to be taken for granted.

The fifth edition of the Kilifi Wellness Festival is from Thursday 15th to Sunday 18th February. The four-day

Wellness is so broad that it’s difficult to define. Almost

festival has a wide diversity of activities to heal the body,

everything that is good for us in some way could be

ease the mind and soothe the soul. Whether you want

described as wellness. At the Kilifi Wellness Festival

to stretch your body or relax, to challenge your mind or

sessions, workshops and discussions run throughout

unwind, the festival has something for you.

the four days and include stand-up paddleboard yoga, aerial yoga, circus arts, vinyasa flow, yin, ashtanga,

Wellness tourism might be a new concept, but it’s one of

dance, art, poetry, animal movements, breathwork, sound

the fastest growing industries in the world. According to

bath, nutrition, spoken word, mental health, forgiveness

the Global Wellness Institute, wellness tourism is growing

and more. Participants can immerse themselves in the

at 20.9% per annum.

festival and try everything, or take it slowly and choose

‘Wellness tourism is the powerful intersection of two large

to join only the sessions that speak to them. Wellness is

and growing multi-trillion-dollar industries: tourism and

also about taking time for yourself; people can take long

wellness. Holistic health and prevention are increasingly

beach walks and absorb the beauty of the white sand

at the center of consumer decision-making, and people

and sparkling ocean of Bofa Beach, or they can make

now expect to continue their healthy lifestyles and

new friends and share the experience.

wellness routines when they are away from home.’

However, it’s not about the money. The reason this is a

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The festival also offers evening events such as open mic,

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"Absolutely loved the KWF day I attended.

Already excited for the next one :)" - Palvi cacao ceremony, ecstatic dance, beach party and the

and where they conduct traditional cultural rituals

much loved moonrise dhow cruise. Therapists are on

and ceremonies. At the last Kilifi Wellness Festival,

hand for private sessions of reiki, access bars, sound

a representative of Nature Kenya, born and bred on

healing, energy healing, tarot readings, physiotherapy

Kenya’s coast, spoke about the history and culture of the

and massage amongst other things. The tented

coast, the distinctive traditions of the coastal tribes, and

marketplace has a wide selection of wellness-related

the beliefs that echo through the centuries.

products, eco-friendly designs, nutritious delights, coastal creations and sustainable fashion.

The festival is held at Salty’s Kitesurf Village on Bofa Beach and 3 Degrees South on Kilifi Creek. Treat yourself

People today want authenticity, not a wellness

and your loved ones to four days of love and laughter on

experience that has been super-imposed on a country.

Kilifi’s beautiful beach.

The experience needs to be rooted in the place and its culture.

Tickets available here:

Kenya, the Cradle of Mankind, is where human life began. This resonates in people’s souls, and makes

Early bird tickets are available until 15th December!

the country well placed to curate a life-enhancing

Buy your friends and family the gift of wellness for

experience. Kilifi has several archaeological sites that

Christmas. Tickets available through the website:

date back to the Stone Age and hold a remarkably long

https://kilifiwellness.com

record of human activity.

Email info@kilifiwellness.com for a full festival package including flights and accommodation

Kenya’s coast is home to the Mijikenda Kaya, spaces in sacred forests that only local communities know,

33

Georgina Goodwin

STORY

Creating Cherished Memories: Exploring the World with My Little Ones

By Tatiana Karanja Tatiana is a passionate mother of three girls, professional photographer, and social media content creator. With an insatiable love for travel, food, and learning about the world, she captures and shares her adventures through the lens, inspiring others to embrace the beauty of life's moments and explore the wonders of our diverse planet.

Follow her @mamaolivek and @tatianakaranjaphoto As a mother, there's nothing I cherish more than embarking on adventures with my kids. Travelling with them allows us to create beautiful memories together, fostering a deep bond and a love for exploration. I've always had a passion for travel, stemming from my childhood where I developed a curiosity for different cultures, traditions, and foods. It has shaped me into the person I am today, someone who appreciates the diversity of people and ways of life. And now, as a mother, I hope to pass on this love for travel and appreciation for the world to my own children.

Recently, I had the pleasure of taking my three little ones, aged 6 and a half, 4 (almost 5), and 1 and a half, to a place called Mlango Farm. Let me tell you, it was an experience we'll never forget.

Located just 45 minutes away from the bustling city centre of Nairobi, in the serene village of Ngecha, this hidden gem provided the perfect escape from our daily routines.

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The Value of Experiencing the Now: Some people worry that young children won't remember their travel experiences when they grow older. But for me, that doesn't matter. What truly matters is the joy and wonder they experience in the present moment. It's about immersing themselves in different cultures, trying new activities, and learning about the world firsthand. The things they learn from these trips are incredibly valuable, whether or not they remember every detail as they grow older. As a mom, it brings me immense joy to see my kids exploring, learning, and enjoying themselves. These experiences go beyond the classroom, allowing me to teach them about the world in a way that textbooks cannot.

Tips for Traveling with Young Kids: Travelling with young children can be challenging, but with a little preparation, it can also be incredibly rewarding. Here are a few tips: •

Plan age-appropriate activities: Consider the interests and abilities of your children when planning activities. Choose destinations and experiences that cater to their age.

•

Pack wisely: Bring along essentials like snacks,

Making Memories at Mlango Farm:

toys, and comfort items to keep your little ones

Mlango Farm offered us a unique opportunity to immerse

entertained and comfortable during the journey.

ourselves in a peaceful rural environment while enjoying

•

changes and adapt your plans accordingly. Kids

the warm African atmosphere blended with Dutch

thrive when they feel relaxed and not rushed.

"gezelligheid" (coziness). It was a place where we could truly unwind and create lasting memories.

Embrace flexibility: Be prepared for unexpected

•

Involve them in the planning process: Let your children have a say in choosing activities or

Teaching Kids Through Travel:

destinations. This helps them feel more engaged and

One of the things I love most about travelling with my

excited about the trip.

kids is how much they learn along the way. Travel opens their eyes to new experiences, cultures, and ways of

So, in conclusion, as a mother, I am passionate about

life. It teaches them about diversity, acceptance, and

travelling with my kids and creating cherished memories

empathy. At Mlango Farm, my children had the chance

together. Our visit to Mlango Farm was a testament to

to connect with nature, explore the outdoors, and learn

the power of travel in shaping young minds. It's through

about agriculture. They climbed trees, fed the animals,

these experiences that my children are learning valuable

played hide and seek, and engaged in various activities

life lessons, and developing a sense of curiosity that

that sparked their curiosity. These experiences not only

will stay with them for a lifetime. So, fellow parents, I

created beautiful memories but also provided valuable

encourage you to embark on your adventures with your

learning opportunities.

little ones. Explore, learn, and make memories that will last a lifetime. The world is waiting to be discovered, one journey at a time.

37

ADVERTORIAL

Road Trip Essentials: A culinary adventure with

By Mercy Wakio Mercy is a passionate traveller who loves to explore new places, particularly when it comes to hiking, camping, and all things outdoors.

Embarking on a road trip is always fun and adventurous.

sustenance is key, ensuring energy levels are high and

The thrill of the open road, the promise of new

culinary adventures are as exciting as the journey itself.

discoveries around every bend, and the freedom

In my pursuit of the perfect road trip essentials, I found

to explore uncharted territories are unparalleled

my haven at Artcaffé Market gourmet food store.

experiences. However, for any road trip aficionado,

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Setting the Scene: A Morning at Artcaffé Market

A Sundowner to Remember: Unwinding in Style

As I stepped into Artcaffé Market, the aroma of freshly

Arriving at our destination, the allure of a drink at

brewed coffee set the stage for the ultimate food

sunset beckoned. The charcuterie board stole the show,

shopping experience. From steaming lattes to flaky

featuring an array of olives, creamy cheese, and savoury

croissants, The Market offers the ideal kickstart for any

cold cuts, all served with freshly baked bread. Each bite

road trip adventure. But my mission was not just about

was a harmony of flavours, enhancing the sundowner

breakfast; I needed a variety of snacks and hassle-free

experience.

meals to sustain me throughout the day.

Healthy Snacking on the Go: A Plethora of Options

Dinner Made Easy: Ready-to-Eat Excellence For dinner, Artcaffé Market’s ready-to-eat options

The Market impressed me with its commitment to healthy,

came to the rescue. A pre-prepared roast chicken and

delicious food. For my on-the-road snacks, I opted for

roast potatoes from The Market’s hot deli counter were

an assortment of crunchy crackers, protein-packed nuts,

effortlessly heated, transforming into a hearty meal. The

and a great array of energy balls: from nut and seed,

freshly made chicken was succulent, and the potatoes,

to ginger bread, and oat and date flavours. Totally

crispy on the outside and tender inside, were a fitting

guilt free snacking as they are all made from natural

end to a day of adventure.

ingredients and sugars. Perfect for families, kids and vegans.

Conclusion: A Culinary Odyssey with Artcaffe

A Picnic with a Twist: Elevating Lunchtime

Artcaffé Market has quickly become my go-to spot for

As our road trip progressed, we found a picturesque

sustenance but an experience that elevates your road trip

spot to pause for lunch. The Market’s offerings turned an

to new heights, this is the ultimate destination for every

ordinary picnic into a gourmet affair. The standout dish

culinary enthusiast on wheels. Happy travels and healthy

was the big salad plate we made combining the various

snacking!

food and drinks for road trips. If you're seeking not only

options available at the deli counter of The Market, adorned with fresh nuts and tomatoes, accompanied by soft focaccia bread and delectable tree tomato jam.

Artcaffé Market locations include Rhapta Square, Kileleshwa, Village Market & Westview Westlands (open 24/7).

39

ROAD TRIP

Road-tripping from Nairobi to Kigali by bus

By Brian Ngali Ever been struck by the urge to embark on a spontaneous adventure? Well, that's a feeling I know all too well. Let me take you on our last-minute escapade to Rwanda with the boys. With no elaborate plan in place, just a burst of enthusiasm, we decided to venture across the border. Flights were exorbitant due to economic challenges and fluctuating USD exchange rates, so we opted for a bus journey. Armed with passports and essential yellow fever certificates (do not forget these!!), we embraced the impromptu spirit.

Pro Tip #1: The VIP/Business class seats on buses aren’t

Crossing into Rwanda on the second day, we exchanged

that much more expensive and give legroom and comfort.

Ugandan shillings for Rwandese Francs, preparing for

We set off from Nairobi after a late lunch, stocking up

the final stretch to Kigali. The drive, although taking

on snacks for the journey and ensuring we had plenty of

longer than anticipated, was peppered with scenic coffee

water for the long road ahead.

plantations and village life. It's worth noting that driving etiquette shifted – drivers kept to the right instead of the

Reaching the border by 6 a.m. the next day, we smoothly

familiar left in Kenya and Uganda. Pro Tip #3: If you self-

transitioned into Uganda. A quick stop at a local

drive do bear this in mind, especially on roundabouts!

café introduced us to the Ugandan delight known as 'Rolex'. Pro Tip #2: Always carry cash for easy currency

Finally arriving in Kigali after 30 hours, the city

conversion on the other side. It’s a straightforward

welcomed us with its vibrant energy. Motorbikes became

process – exchange your Kenyan Shillings for Ugandan

our go-to mode of transport, more affordable than what

Shillings, but be ready to haggle for the best rates with

we’re used to in "Nairobbery" lol. Managing transactions

the local handlers.

required local currency, so remember Pro Tip #2: Always carry cash!

Experiencing Uganda for the first time was a breathtaking adventure. The journey to Jinja was

Our stay in a luxurious apartment added comfort to

remarkably smooth, offering captivating views of the

our five-day trip. Exploring Kigali's CBD, attending

famous Jinja Bridge. Navigating Kampala's bustling

production meetings at BK Arena, and immersing

streets, mostly dominated by motorbikes, became a

ourselves in the nightlife all became cherished memories.

unique experience. Despite a late departure, our stop

Although we missed the Genocide Memorial, it remains

in Mbarara near the Rwandan border revealed the lush

on our bucket list for the next Rwandan adventure, one

Ugandan landscape dotted with rice paddies.

we’ll be sure to plan soon!

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Brian Ngali is a freelance

Photography. His expertise

multimedia artist based in

lies in the dynamic fields of

Nairobi. With nine years of

commercial and marketing,

freelancing experience under

as well as documentary film

his belt, he has honed his

production, catering to a

craft in the realms of Film and

diverse range of clients both locally and internationally.

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43

GIFT GUIDE

Gifts Galore: Unwrapping Kenya’s Unique Treasures for the Festive Season As the festive season approaches, the streets of Nairobi come alive with the spirit of giving, and there's no better way to spread joy than with thoughtful gifts that are as unique as the local scene itself. Nairobi is a city known for its rich diversity, and this is beautifully reflected in the quality and variety of gifts you can find here. Whether you're shopping for friends, family, or colleagues, here is my list of distinctive presents that are sure to impress.

By Pinky Ghelani

1. Sandstorm Bags Start your gift-giving journey with something special and homegrown. Unwrap the essence of Nairobi's artisanal mastery with Sandstorm: the makers of canvas and leather bags that last a lifetime and radiate Kenyan artistry.

These bags are not only stylish but also support local artisans. Elevate your gifts with Sandstorm – where quality meets heritage in every stitch.

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2. Ikwetta Leather Goods

3. Adèle Dejak Earrings

If you're in search of a gift that exudes elegance and

Elevate your gift-giving game with Adèle Dejak - a

style, look no further than Ikwetta. This Kenyan brand

master at creating nifty jewelry that's always on-trend

is renowned for its exceptional leather products. From

if not ahead of the curve. These earrings come highly

handbags to duffel bags, these leather goods are the

recommended for anyone who appreciates the art

epitome of craftsmanship and make for an ideal gift for

of accessorizing. From bold and statement pieces to

someone who appreciates the finer things in life.

delicate and understated designs, Adèle Dejak has something for every style.

4. Books by Local Authors

5. Scented Candles

For the bookworm in your life, Nairobi boasts a wealth

Create a warm and inviting atmosphere this festive

of literary talent. Consider gifting books by authors such

season with scented candles. Some of the current

as Zahra Njoki, Patricia Murugami, Lisa Christofferson,

favorites on the market include those by Sere and

and Muthoni Mukiri. Their works span various genres,

Rownamy. These candles offer divine fragrances that

from self care and empowerment to children’s books and

infuse your home with a soothing aroma, perfect for the

make for ideal companions during the festive season.

days you plan to entertain guests or simply unwind in peace.

24 HOURS IN...

24 Hours in Dar Es Salaam

By Francesca De Gottardo Francesca fell in love with Tanzania after the first trip she took there in 2012. She came back in 2017 and since then she’s been on a mission to instil and grow a fashion economy that puts people at the centre, thus creating Endelea: an ethical fashion brand that lives between Italy and Tanzania.

The name Dar es Salaam means “haven

magical place where you will discover

of peace” in Arabic, and while this might

Tingatinga art, a typical Tanzanian style

not be the first feeling that a visitor would

born in the Sixties, surrounded by crazy

associate with Tanzania’s busiest and

colours and all sorts of animals from the

fastest-growing city, it’s how this place

savannah.

makes me feel every time I’m here.

Finally, why not close the day with some Bongo - as its people call it - is not a

fashion? For those interested in crafts

tourist city in the most classic sense.

and social impact projects, you can visit

There are no endless lists of museums and

Endelea's workshop in the Magomeni

monuments to visit, but I believe spending

area to meet the team and discover what

time here is the only way to get to know

happens behind the scenes, all the way

the modern face of Tanzania.

from Milan Fashion Week to the heart of Bongo. If you’re passionate about

After a good breakfast in one of the

artisanal fabrics, don’t miss Cracode in

many cosy cafés in Masaki - like Wild

the Mlimani City area, or Handmade

Flour, Woodberry or Epi d’Or, start your

from Tanzania and Sifa Threads in

exploration at the Kariakoo market and

Masaki.

get ready to be blown away by the most lively, chaotic, and unique place in Dar.

The best way to end the day is an aperitif

Here you can buy and sell everything,

at sunset at Level 8 Rooftop Bar, with an

from food to luggage, jewels to clothes:

unforgettable view over downtown Dar es

but don’t miss the kitenge area, where

Salaam, or an Italian spritz at Bar in Dar,

the bright and bold colors of the printed

just a few meters away from the ocean.

wax fabrics will steal your heart.

Then, nightlife in Dar is unmissable!

Almost every night the city offers

If you are into art, move back to

concerts, live music, poetry reading, art

Masaki to explore the TingaTinga Arts

exhibitions, and so much more.

Cooperative Society: a special and

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