nonpareil
THE UNIVERSITY OF CHICAGO FOOD MAGAZINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS Cover: serena kini cramer back cover: Hannah ni
4 fabiana’s bakery 5 big & little’s 6 birriera zaragoza 7 lito’s empanadas 8 bacchanalia 10 the allis 11 lounges 12 nose to tail 14 raise a glass 16 frugal feasts 18 spice it up 19 foodie feature 20 packed 22 peppermint mug cake 23 chocolate bourbon pecan pie 24 mac and cheese 25 vegan snickers pancakes 26 hot cocktails Editor-in-Chief Joe Joseph Managing editor Karen Sung head of photography sahil chatterji Treasurer hannah bao head of programming geoffrey wang social media managers hannah ni, daniella rodriguez Content editors celine kwon, Joe joseph, karen sung designers Annie Guo, Jena Yang, Jenna Dorfman, Jenny Mao, Stephanie Li writers Alden Herrera, Alex Adams, Amiela Canin, Andrew Gleason, Aneesa Sonawalla, Arjun Venkatesh, Bia Jazbik, Catalina Parra, Dalton Hammond, Genevieve Iwanicki, Georgia Dixon, Isabella Iwanicki, Jena Yang, Laura Brawley, Lilly Guo, Madison Lo, Martha Teka, Mary Bittner, Matt Veldman, Maybelle Silverstein, Michal Dzitko, Michelle Ling, Mike Harrison, Naomi Gancz, Nikita Coutinho, Siri Lee photographers Andrew Gleason, Aneesa Sonawalla, Catalina Parra, Delia Sosa, Fiona Gasaway, Gabby Koones, Hannah Ni Luise Bublitz, Sahil Chatterji, Serena Kini Cramer, Spencer Chan Dear Foodies and Friends, Welcome to the Autumn 2015 issue of Nonpareil! This time, we’re switching things up a bit—instead of a specific theme that runs throughout the issue, we’ve decided to look to the creative genius of Nonpareil’s staff to inspire our culinary content. Within the pages of this issue you’ll find reviews, recipes, and features that play off of the passions of the wonderful people who make up our magazine. So sit back, grab something to much on, and enjoy (don’t forget, reading Nonpareil on an empty stomach is never advisable).
- The Editors let us know what you’d like to see in the next issue! facebook nonpareil magazine instagram nonpareil_UC website nonpareiluc.com contact us nonpareilmagazine@gmail.com
REVIEW:
fabiana’s bakery
By //ANDREW gleason Photos // Gabby koones
When I walked into Fabiana’s Bakery, a strong sense of friendliness overwhelmed me.The whole space has a sort of rustic charm, with a color palette composed of natural wood and light blue and white tones. Rows of pendant lights hang over the tables, where there is ample seating. In one corner sits a collection
of children’s toys and large blackboards filled with kid’s doodles; in the opposite corner, a small upright piano. These add to the friendly ambience, creating that homey neighborhood bakery vibe in an unassuming, natural way. Fabiana’s atmosphere and convenient location make it a great place to grab something sweet after class or work on homework when you need a break from the library. Fabiana’s selection of baked goods was somewhat limited, which is to be expected given the size, but there was still a good variety of options. Layer cake by the slice, cupcakes, fresh baked breads, muffins, and other standard bakery fare 10% student discount tempt customers from behind the display case. I went with a chocolate peanut butter cupcake and a slice of coffee cake, which came out to less than $5. (Students who show their ID receive a 10% discount!) The coffee cake was topped in a sweet, crunchy streusel that had well-balanced notes of cinnamon and brown sugar, with a rich buttery flavor. A simple glaze was drizzled sparingly on
neighborhood HYDE park
Price range $$*
dishes to try
chocolate peanut butter cupcake + layer cakes 4
nonpareil | autumn 2015
top, offering a sweetness that complemented the streusel without overwhelming it. The actual cake portion was a bit dry and lacked some flavor in comparison to the rich streusel topping and filling. In the end, I found myself picking at the plate just to enjoy every last bit of the streusel. Overall, the coffee cake was solid, though not extraordinary, though the streusel topping really was delicious and brought the cake to another level. The “cupcake” was a chocolate cake topped with peanut butter frosting and pieces of Reese’s candy. The chocolate cake was perfectly moist and satisfying but not at all dense. It tasted remarkably fudgy but still managed to be light and fluffy, as the best cakes are. The frosting, a decadently creamy swirl of peanut butter flavor, worked perfectly with the cake. Best of all, the frosting wasn’t cloyingly sweet. It had real peanut butter flavor that didn’t taste artificial or overstated, and the texture was that perfect meltinyourmouth creaminess that all cupcakes should aspire to. Basically, this cupcake did all the little things right, creating a final product truly worth celebrating. At Fabiana’s I would stick to the layer cakes and cupcakes, as that seems to be their area of expertise. It’s not that the other offerings are bad, but if you want a truly delicious treat, go for the cakes, as those seem to be a bit more expertly crafted.
REVIEW:
big and little’s By // Alex adams Photos // FIONA GASAWAY
neighborhood lakeview
Price range $$
dishes to try pork belly po’boy, grilled mahi taco + phil’s fries
Whether you’re in search of a stomachache in the form of a greasy, juicy indulgence or a lighter, more decadent meal, BIG & Little’s is the place for you. A short walk from the Belmont Red Line station, this eclectic yet casual dive featured on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” is turning out a variety of tasty culinary classics. From the more conventional, southern style po’boys, juicy burgers, tacos, and burritos, to the less orthodox, more adventurous foie gras hotdog and kimchi fries, this Lakeview establishment is a hidden gem that appeals to all eaters. The experience began with a walk up the short steps past the giant silhouette mural of BIG & Little into a small, somewhat cramped room. On the wall is a huge menu with so many choices it takes a few seconds just to wrap your head around all of the different possibilities. Finally after some careful deliberation, we decided to go with the pork belly po’boy, their speciality, the raw ahi tuna taco, the grilled mahi taco, and Phil’s fries, which are truffle fries with a gooey fried egg on top. The dining room is rather small, equipped with 10-15 tables and a bar area looking the street, but it is comfortable and cozy yet exciting and bustling with loud music, the sounds of excited customers, and the mysterious voice on the microphone calling out names. After about 10 minutes I heard my name through the loudspeaker, and my mouth began to water. I started with the po’boy, a giant toasted hoagie filled to the brim with delectable cubes of fried pork, lettuce, hot sauce, and maple syrup. Although I was a little skeptical of the thought of hot sauce and maple syrup in tandem, that first bite instantly relinquished any doubt. The pork was perfectly cooked with a crisp outside and a juicy buttery inside full of flavor. The maple syrup provided an unexpected element of sweetness followed by the spice of the hot sauce, both of which were balanced out by the cool crunch of lettuce. Next, I moved on to the ahi tuna taco, a crisp corn tortilla filled with savory pink sashimi tuna and a variety of sweet and spicy sauces. What a refreshing dish it was, one that definitely appeals to those looking for a lighter yet flavorful meal. Although packed with flavor, the tacos are all on the smaller side, and I would definitely recommend trying two or three. I saved the fries for last, and every bite was full of unique yet delicious flavor, as one would expect from truffle fries. The fried egg totally put this dish over the top, adding another dimension to an already delicious pile of crispy potato goodness. If you’re looking for an easy, casual yet flavorful meal on a Saturday night that won’t take too long and won’t burn a hole in your pocket, you can’t go wrong with this joint, as there truly is something amazing for everyone.
reviews
5
REVIEW:
birrieria zaragoza By // GEORGIA DIXON Photos // SPENCER CHAN Although currently experiencing a wave of trendiness, goat meat is typically not part of the food vernacular in the United States. However, Birrieria Zaragoza, a small restaurant near Chicago’s Midway airport, is changing that by serving almost nothing but goat meat prepared in a traditional Mexican style. As such, it is one of the best articulations of goat meat’s fatty, sweet, and pungent flavor. The meat at Birrieria Zaragoza is first slathered in a mole, incorporating a complex mixture of different herbs and spices, and then braised at length to produce an irresistibly tender and aromatic dish. A large plate of bonein, consommé-drenched goat meat comfortably serves two people, although gluttony would dispute such an arrangement. Toward the end of the meal I was reduced to eating a small remaining bit of meat off the bone. The other components of the meal are key to complementing the flavor of the meat. Firstly, the freshly made tortillas are created by a single person constantly distributing small balls of dough onto a wooden tortilla press, and then cooking them on a heated skillet. The result, a robust and flavorful tortilla, provides a structure with which to eat the goat and scoop up the wonderful consommé that is ladled onto the plate. An oven roasted Roma tomato salsa, Salsa de Molcajete, arrives at the table warm, sporting an attractive curl of steam. It more than proves an appropriate accompaniment to
the powerful goat flavor when they are wrapped together in the tortilla. Additionally, the meal comes with diced onions, cilantro, dried hot chilies, and wedges of lime. These elements of crunch, color, heat, and acid provide balance for an already flavorful serving of tender meat. The experience at Birrieria Zaragoza is not limited to the food. The atmosphere is open, and the servers seem to know what you need more than you do. At the beginning of our meal, horchata, vibrant with a hefty amount of cinnamon, was readily distributed around the table. Accordingly, at the end of our meal a slice of luscious flan appeared on our table as if magicked there. The friends I was eating with enthusiastically split the dessert — all of us taking time to savor the smooth, custardy treat. Every step of the preparation of the food is on display to the diners at Zaragoza. However, this is not in the way that a fancy establishment might take a stylized approach in “staging” a kitchen for guests to placidly observe from an appropriate distance. Zaragoza celebrates its food, rather than parading it around like a theatrical show. Instead, every step from stewing the meat to making the tortillas is there to show the attention and joy that the people working there take in making one dish very, very well.
neighborhood archer heights
Price range $$
dishes to try
horchata, goat meat, salsa de molcajete + flan
6
nonpareil | autumn 2015
Lito’s Empanadas REVIEW:
Situated in the heart of Lincoln Park, Lito’s Empanadas sells empanadas on a bustling street. Feel-good Spanish music plays in the background, while two chefs work the kitchen. Six stools face the window, and there’s a counter for customers to order food. To the left, a colorful chalkboard lists the 12 options for empanadas, both savory and sweet. After reviewing the menu, we decided to each order one savory and one sweet empanada: beef, spinach, choco-banana, and applecinnamon. The cashier told us that it would take around five minutes for our empanadas to be ready. In the meanwhile, we took our seats by the window, while people-watching and chatting. Before we knew it, our empanadas were straight out of the fryer and delivered to us in small baskets. The cashier, who was also our server, gave us a bottle of creamy red sauce and cups of water alongside our empanadas. First and foremost, you know an empanada is good when the crust is flaky, and this crust was seriously flaky. The beef empanada was stuffed with ground beef, olives, potato, tomato, onion, and surprisingly a few raisins, which balanced the other flavors well. The combination of spices and ingredients gave the empanada a full-bodied flavor with every bite. This beef empanada made us feel like we were truly eating traditional Colombian empanadas. The filling in the spinach empanada consisted of mozzarella, onion, and spinach, obviously. The
By // Michelle ling Photos // DELIA SOSA
cheese was warm and melted to perfection. The best way to describe this empanada was Greek meets Colombian, like a cross between a spanakopita and an empanada. Two sauces came with the empanadas. While we couldn’t identify the exact ingredients, we thought that tomatoes were a part of the red creamy sauce. The green sauce cut through the rich flavors of the empanadas and came with a small kick. While both sauces paired well with the empanadas, we preferred the creamy red sauce. The choco-banana empanada is a chocolate lover’s paradise. Take one bite, and the gooey, melted nutella immediately makes you smile. The consistency of the nutella is just the right consistency between thick and liquid. The nutella is very rich, and the dessert dough is perfect for keeping all the melted chocolate inside. Dusted with cinnamon sugar on the outside, this apple cinnamon empanada puts you in the mood for the season. The empanada is like a hand held apple pie and will definitely satisfy your sweet tooth. While most customers catered toward ordering their empanadas to go, Lito’s has the
service and homey space that makes for a fun place to eat, assuming there is enough space to sit. Lito’s certainly knows how to make traditional empanadas the right way. Nevertheless, their experimentation with creating new empanada flavors is highly successful. Savory or sweet, traditional or new, dine-in or order to go, you can’t go wrong when it comes to Lito’s Empanadas.
neighborhood lincoln park
Price range $
dishes to try beef, spinach, apple-cinnamon, + choco-banana empanadas reviews
7
8
nonpareil | autumn 2015
REVIEW:
bacchanalia By // Laura Brawley + Amiela Canin Photos // luise bublitz The trademarks of good Italian cooking are said to be simple and fresh ingredients. In every recipe, the essential flavor, whether it’s tomatoes, fish, or lentils, comes through and makes the dish. This was certainly the case at Bacchanalia, located at 2413 S. Oakley Avenue in the Heart of Italy neighborhood. Named for the Bacchus, the Roman god of drinking and revelry, Bacchanalia stands out among its neighbors and the multitude of Latin eateries in the neighborhood spilling over from nearby Little Village. When we entered the restaurant, we noticed with some apprehension that there were only a few other customers, all seated at the bar. As we began to eat, however, more and more people filtered in, and toward the end of our meal the room was pleasantly filled with conversation. After sitting down, we were first brought small baskets abundantly filled with soft Italian bread and crunchy breadsticks. The bread came with butter, but we preferred to soak it in olive oil, which was supplied at every table along with the customary Italian staple — parmesan cheese. Perusing the menu, we stopped to exclaim at every other item, but we finally decided to start with an antipasto plate, which consisted of assorted cured meats, cheeses, and vegetables. It was satisfactory but didn’t stand out from the antipasti found in other Italian restaurants. What followed, though, was delicious. We ordered stuffed cannelloni pasta, chicken parmesan, and linguine with clams in white wine sauce. The food arrived promptly, presented on
simple white plates, which were wide and good for sharing. The cannelloni, a type of tubular pasta, certainly is not for the faint of heart. The dish was hearty and jam packed with flavor. Plentifully stuffed with ground beef and luxuriously drenched in tangy marinara sauce and cheese, the dish immediately attracted our attention among the menu’s plethora of pasta options. All the entreés where nicely portioned, though the chicken parmesan certainly was the largest of the three. The lightly breaded chicken covered with mozzarella and and tomato sauce came with a hefty side of penne pasta, though the pasta failed to match the flavor profile of the chicken. There were also a variety of other enticing meat and fish options, including many veal dishes. The linguine stood out the most among the dishes we sampled. It came smothered in clams, a few still in their shells. The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente, the sauce rich and fragrant with white wine and garlic. The flavors complemented each other wonderfully. After the pasta was gone, there was plenty of sauce left to soak up with our bread. For dessert we shared tiramisu — creamy and not-too-sweet with just a little kick of coffee. It was excellent. After our meal, we sat savoring the sense of warmth and wellbeing that can only come from eating good home-cooked food. We recommend that anyone looking for quality and flavorful Italian comfort food in a cozy atmosphere venture out to Bacchanalia. It’s certainly worth the trip.
neighborhood neighborhood INSERT heart of italy
known for Price range insert $$ insert
dishes to try the draw stuffed
insert canneloni pasta insert + linguine with insert clams
reviews
9
REVIEW:
The Allis
By // jena yang Photos // sahil chatterji
The Allis is located on the first floor of the historic Allis building in West Loop. The seating area is simultaneously the lobby for the Soho House hotel and so the restaurant does seem as though it is hiding in plain sight – but walk in and seat yourself at any of the open marble communal tables or the crushed velvet armchairs with smaller side tables, and eventually one of the very gracious waiters (eventually because they do tend to rush around without realizing who came in) will come by to take your order. The Allis is not exactly a restaurant – but neither does it quite seem to be another lounge. The atmosphere is decidedly casual despite the extensive art collection that hangs on the brick
walls and the elegance of the furnishings. It seems to cater toward professionals holding small business meetings during lunch hours, groups of friends coming for afternoon tea, and people looking for somewhere to work on their laptops. It does become more loungelike at night when the candles are lit, and most people come for drinks after work or cocktails before attending events in the Soho House. The Allis serves breakfast and lunch (or brunch on the weekends), along with offering small plates in the evening. The afternoon tea menu — apparently the highlight of their offerings — includes various pastries and glasses of sparkling wine or champagne. We went at dinner time so we ordered off
the small plates menu — one smoked salmon on toast and one grilled cheese short rib. The smoked salmon plate was served cold — an open faced sandwich with relatively generous layers of smoked salmon on top of cream cheese and seasoned with caper croutons served on an elaborate china plate. The hard toasted bread was well balanced by the smooth smoked salmon, and the creaminess of the cheese was countered by the crunchy saltiness of the caper croutons. The grilled cheese short rib toast, made with caramelized onions and brioche, likewise matched the crunchy panini pressed bread with the buttery combination of the meat and cheese. The meat was surprisingly tender and combined well with the soft onions and cheese. The servings were not nearly as small as the menu would suggest, and they came at a relatively low cost as well. What makes the Allis different from the other restaurants and lounges in Chicago is not the food, however — it is rather the relaxed sophistication of the atmosphere that is so alluring. It’s tempting enough to make you want to stay from the breakfast omelet to evening cocktails.
neighborhood neighborhood West loop the loop
known for Price range uncooked, $$ organic food
dishes to try the draw smoked salmon treat your+ on toast tastebuds ... Grilled cheese and your colon shortrib
10 nonpareil | autumn 2015
REVIEW:
lounges By // madison lo + maybelle silverstein Photos // madison lo + serena kini cramer
momotaro When you descend into the Izakaya at Momotaro, dark wooden walls, red neon lights, and vintage paraphernalia from Tokyo transport you to the yokocho, the back-alley post-WWII black markets where salarymen spent their nights. Traditionally a casual pub that catered to after-work drinking, the izakaya has grown to include fashionable interiors and higher-end drinks, and now serves a diverse clientele. The Momotaro Izakaya is located on the subterranean level of the restaurant. It is traditional meets contemporary, elegant yet entirely unpretentious. The wide drink selection includes beer, cocktails, sake, Japanese whiskey, and wine, ranging from $6 beers to wine bottles upward of $300; on the cocktail list you’ll find a list of quirky names like “Monk’s Journey,” a vodka-based mixture featuring matcha green tea, or “Warlord’s Bounty,” a strong rum combination toned down and sweetened with mandarin and lime. The food menu includes bar snacks as well as main dishes such as sushi rolls and ramen. Though smaller than the upstairs space, the Izakaya is nevertheless versatile, and offers opportunities for varied experiences — the semi-private lounge and moody lights are romantic for a date; the open lounge combined with spectacular happy hour prices are suitable for dinner with friends; and the seats around the bar are the perfect setting for quick drinks.
the violet hour The Violet Hour would be near impossible to find if it weren’t for the queue outside, but that’s the entire point. Hidden behind an unmarked door in a wall that is regularly painted over to feature a new mural each season, is a dimly lit, beautifully appointed speakeasy. Its very name (which comes from T.S. Eliot’s poem) is seductive, and once inside, you’re transported into a supremely luxurious, elegant, and old-fashioned retreat. The walls are richly appointed with blue velvet drapes, crystal chandeliers are hung from the cavernous ceilings, and orders are taken by candlelight. Although packed on a Saturday with young 20-something couples, the space is designed to facilitate the most intimate of conversations, and the noise level never rises above a warm murmur. Speakeasies can risk feeling contrived but the Violet Hour delivers more than just sumptuous interiors. The week-old seasonal menu boasts 39 innovative cocktails, including the longstanding favorite Juliet and Romeo, an exquisitely light gin based concoction infused with mint and rose water. Referee in the Roundabout, another drink, may have been tequila-based but carried itself like it was whiskey through its subtle leathery smokiness. There’s no doubt that the menu has something to suit every palette, but just in case you can’t settle, the expert team of mixologists are more than happy to whip up a custom-tailored creation. On round two, we asked for something spicy and sour and received a unique gin and sriracha tonic that answered our question perfectly.
the watershed On the other end of the spectrum is Watershed in the basement of Pops for Champagne. It’s a similar speakeasy concept but less sexy and more Midwestern. The Manhattan No. 6 was solid with excellent bitters, the Friends Like These pleasantly light and frothy, and the deviled eggs and lentils surprisingly delicious. Friendly and laid-back versus mysterious and exclusive, this parlor-style lounge has a cozy charm but lacks in excitement.
reviews reviews 11 11
nose to tail STUDY ABROAD FEATURE | LONDON
how one chef transformed British cuisine and started a worldwide phenomenon
12 nonpareil | autumn 2015
photo courtesy of st. john restaurant
by Matt Veldman You wouldn’t be faulted for never having heard of Fergus Henderson before, unassuming a character as he is, but if you’ve eaten in any modern restaurant serving a variety of animal parts — from beef heart, crispy pig ear, and veal brains to more familiar cuts like charcuterie and pork belly — you’ve felt the vast reach of his culinary influence, knowingly or not. To say simply that he pioneered nose-to-tail cooking with his restaurant St. John in London (which he certainly did) would be an understatement. He also put the British culinary scene on the map at a time when nothing much exciting was happening with English food, ignoring the common food industry standard of shouting chefs and throwing pots and instead leading the trend of fostering an environment of respect and calm in chef ’s kitchens. For the past 20-odd years, Henderson has been doing things his own way, and with the current state of American and British dining, it’s clear that everybody else is finally starting to catch on to his style and follow suit. Long before ‘farm to table’ and ‘nose to tail’ became buzzwords in the food scene, Henderson was serving up offal-centered dishes like trotters and his now-famous bone marrow and parsley to those who were willing to eat them. While he admits that the kind of food he served was not for everyone, it was never about shock value or crying “Woo hoo! Blood and guts!” The ‘nose to tail’ philosophy was simply common sense to him: “Nature writes our menu and we should listen,” he wrote in a 2014 piece for The Guardian. Studying in London for the quarter, I felt pulled to go and try the food of St. John for myself. The restaurant itself is sparsely decorated, the wait staff warm and knowledgeable. I took a few of their suggestions in ordering. I found that the bone marrow and parsley on toast had a surprisingly mild meaty flavor; the deep-fried calf brains were unctuous and creamy; the smoked sprats pleasingly briney. All were served simply, letting the few key ingredients shine. What’s funny now is how commonplace the idea of ‘nose to tail’ seems in the food scene of 2015. In a now quaint-
sounding 2005 New Yorker piece on Henderson, the interviewer wondered whether such a restaurant concept could be successful anywhere else in the world. What the piece does get spot-on is how much Henderson’s work has made it easier for other chefs to serve interesting bits of animals that they’d always wanted to but couldn’t for fear of diner and reviewer ridicule. Anthony Bourdain, an early fan of Henderson and St. John, has echoed this sentiment: “He absolutely changed the world, and now everyone wants to cook like Fergus.”
“[Fergus Henderson] put the British culinary scene on the map at a time when nothing much exciting was happening with English food” Other chefs ranging from Mario Batali to David Chang to Rene Redzepi have all expressed their appreciation for how Henderson has changed the way we cook and eat. It’s been a long road of culinary development since St. John opened in 1994, but these days you couldn’t throw a pig’s ear without it landing in front of some recently opened joint offering ‘nose to tail’ and regional ‘farm to table’ cooking, particularly in a culinary hotbed like Chicago. If you’re looking for a good example of the St. John ethos of cooking and hospitality in Chicago, The Publican in the West Loop is (rightly) praised for its pork centric, all parts of the animal menu. Longman and Eagle, in Logan Square, is another restaurant where pig cheek and veal brain get equal billing with more typical pork tenderloin and artisanal burger offerings. Glancing down at their menu, I notice the bone marrow, pickled garlic and shallots, parsley, and sourdough toast, and I can’t help but smile: whether a knowing gesture or not, it’s a subtle nod to Fergus’s enduring influence on the way we eat now. features 13
RaisE A Glass Michal Dzitko sits down with Michael Muser, general manager and partner of Grace and sommelier extraordinaire, to talk about all things wine 14 nonpareil | autumn 2015
Set your foot into any Michelin-level establishment and it hits you: oenology, the study of wine, has finally reached a quasi-supernatural status. And I mean it hits you hard; to most of us, as if a religion, wine offers delectable and comforting salvation at an affordable price of disconcerting ignorance. On a recent quest to put a rest to my own oeno-illiteracy, I had the rare luxury to ask Mike Muser, the general manager and partner of Grace, anything I wanted. Here is the conversation that ensued.
N
onpareil: So first of all, congratulations on retaining your third Michelin star yet again. Michael Muser: Thank you, that means a lot. NP: So, starting from the larger scope: you and wine, how did it start, and what’s so exciting about fermented grape juice? MM: I got into wine like many sommeliers — I think you find if you interview, you know, 20 sommeliers, you’ll find out none of them started out on the path of wine, many of them were other things. And like many of them, my path was not in the vineyard. I was an actor for a long time, but I always worked in restaurants because I always wanted my own money, and restaurants were a great venue for that. I decided to go to school in northern California, and vineyards were aplenty. And I started riding bikes through most of these vineyards, becoming friends with the vineyard guys and winemakers and started kind of studying it. I learned how to sell wine on the restaurant floor because it made me more money at the end of the day. And then like everybody, you begin to study the idea of it, the topic of it; you become awakened to the universe of ideas that is wine. And you start studying it, and the more you study the more you realize you know nothing. Every thing that you grab onto as a fact becomes an opinion minutes later. You try and find truths in the world of making wine, and there aren’t too many. It’s very frustrating. NP: That actually leads me to my next question — when I think good wine, I think expensive, old, you know, Burgundy, corked, naturally not screw-top. Why am I wrong? MM: It’s bullshit. 100% of it. It’s a very large planet, there is a lot of juice on it, and most of the more interesting, more provocative stuff that’s just absolutely exciting and keeps me wanting another glass is between 20 and 25 dollars a bottle from places that most people don’t care about. And that’s unfortunate, that’s extremely unfortunate. Wine is exploration. So no one should be surprised when my
excitement comes from Albarino or Godello or Mencia. People are excited about the still wines that are coming out of Portugal right now. That’s exciting to me. That’s wonderful. It’s an epic area of discovery. And all of these places — the Loire valley. I’m weak in the knees in the Loire valley. It’s an area we promote heavily here in the restaurant. It goes with the food better than anything else that I know of. But mostly because it’s an area where the big magazines are not allowed to go. It’s too complicated. But that is where the magic is. That’s where the love is. And if someone says to me, “I don’t like this wine list, I don’t recognize anything on it.” We’re in a juxtaposition here because the reason why you don’t like that wine list is the exact reason why I love it. NP: So we’ve all been in that situation.
You go, you take your date to an awesome restaurant. You sit down. The sommelier comes up to you, gives you the wine list — you just panic. You have no idea what’s happening. Do you have any tips on how to impress your date? MM: Yeah. I do this all the time. I don’t really look at the wine list. I already kind of know what I like in my head. Know what you like to drink. Know the kinds of wines that make you happy. Make a decision as to whether you’re gonna be super adventurous tonight. When the sommelier comes to the table, have a price point in mind that you are happy to spend. Give him a low and a medium, maybe a high. You know what I mean? Like, “Hey, man. I’m in your hands tonight. This is what I normally like.” And this is not a cop-out answer, by the way. I legitimately do this when I eat in other restaurants. “I’m up for 80 bucks. This is what I normally like. And I want something
in that realm, but don’t be afraid to show me something different.” And I guarantee what happens is that sommelier, they leave the floor, they go down to the cellar, and they will put more time and effort into that decision than any other decision they’ve made in the dining room that night, because you put it in their lap. They’ll be so appreciative of the fact that you just simply trusted them enough to make the call, they won’t mind it if you don’t like it. It’s totally cool. But heck, 9 out of 10 times I do that, I’m in love with it. And even when I don’t love it, at least it came from someone’s heart. You know what I mean? I’m probably being introduced to something I’ve never seen before. There’s so much wine in the world, you can’t possibly even tap 10 percent of it. So let someone else take the wheel for a while. It’s fun, right? NP: So what does it mean for a wine to breathe before serving, and what kinds of wines should you decant? MM: It’s kind of funny that the topic of letting wine breathe can be quite controversial. I’ve had moments where I’ve taken a young California pinot noir, and dumped it into a decanter to let it out of its socks for a minute, and the guest is like, “What are you doing? Why are you decanting my pinot noir?” Because someone told them that there are one or maybe two reasons why you decant a bottle of wine: to allow it to breathe, to allow the wine to open, to relax. It’s been trapped for a long time. And whether you think that’s a good idea or a bad idea with certain wines, it’s totally in your head. It’s up to you, it’s entirely up to you. I am of the opinion to dump everything into a decanter. Get it out of the bottle. Give it a minute. I think that whether it’s young or old, it will sing the song that it is intending to sing at a louder volume if you give it a minute or two in a decanter. NP: You’re a college student. Naturally of age. Living on a budget. You walk into a liquor store. What wine do you pick? MM: Cru Beaujolais all the way. ‘Cause it’s cheap. It’s usually around 15 to 18 bucks a bottle. And it’s pure. I’m not saying that Beaujolais nouveau is the greatest wine in the world. I’m not saying it’s better than Burgundy, but it’s a damn sight cheaper. And easier to drink half the time. Flows down the palate. And it’s made by very cool, humble people who just make a living. The wine is affordable, and it’s honest. And I think if you started your drinking career as a college student on Cru Beaujolais — that’s a great place to start it, dude.
transcribed by Siri Lee // illustration by Joe Joseph // photo by Huge Galdones features 15
FRUGAL
FEASTS
by // nikita coutinho recipes // arjun venkatesh photos // gabby koones
The first two weeks of college dining are what I call the “honeymoon period.” Pepperoni pizza! Soft baked cookies! Coke refills! But too soon, the melons become monotonous, the line at the omelette station seems too long, and the sight of no straws just sucks. But mostly it’s the lack of home cooked food that hits hardest (even Cathey dining hall’s ice-cream can’t make up for that). In the never-ending quest for homely fare that can be recreated in a dorm kitchen, we explored some of Arjun’s trusted recipes, which all embody the culinary principles of simple, fresh, and flavourful food.
A
protein craving can strike at any time, and this salmon dish can more than satisfy. It rests on two simple necessities: fresh fish and bold flavour. Drizzle olive oil and lime over the fillet before liberally sprinkling your favourite spices (we opted for paprika and cumin), adding salt and pepper to taste. Lay the seasoned fillet across a foil wrapped tray and bake for 5 minutes. What was particularly impressive was that we were able to cook the fish in a counter-top toaster oven rather than having to fire up a large oven. Once the oven timer heralded the end of our wait, we used chopped parsley to garnish. The heavenly aroma and impressive aesthetic of the fish beckoned us, and the taste did not disappoint. The moist fish was enhanced by the tingling acidity of the lime. The effect of including both Mediterranean olive oil and South Asian spices created a fusion that was pleasing to the palate. Arjun, a self-taught culinary enthusiast suggested UChicago students visit Hyde Park Produce for fresh fish. He also added that the fillet, which serves two people, cost only $7, the lime $0.50 and that good quality olive oil and spices should be a staple of any kitchen. 16 nonpareil | autumn 2015
SPICED LIME SALMON FILLET
$7.50
SWEET POTATOES with TWOWAY CHICKPEAS
$5.00
I
t’s unbelievable how elementary it was to prepare this dish, and yet its flavour profile was incredibly fulfilling. A can of chickpeas was cracked open (albeit with a lot of difficulty, owing to a non-compliant can opener) and laid across a glass tray with a mixture of spices (chili, cumin) and salt sprinkled over. We then layered over sweet potato halves on top, and we placed the tray into a pre-heated oven for 40 minutes. In the meantime, we mixed hummus with lemon juice and three cloves of chopped garlic to form a dressing that generously covered the cooked potato-chickpea bake. Upon tasting, I was pleasantly surprised; instead of the overwhelming chickpea taste I expected, I was greeted with crisp skinned, starchy sweet potato, zesty hummus, and subtle spicy notes. I admit I was skeptical when I first heard about the recipe, but with chickpeas only $0.79 a can and sweet potatoes only $0.79 a pound, this dish packs a punch well above its cost.
TUNISIAN SHAKSHUKA
$7.00
T
he last dish we made was one found in Tunisian cuisine, consisting of a spicy delicious mix of vegetables, spices, and eggs. Although it sounds intimidating, the shakshuka was surprisingly easy to make, and extremely cheap. The main ingredients were one onion, one jalapeño, one can of tomatoes, some garlic, various spices, and some eggs. With cartons of eggs going at $2.50 at most grocery stores, and quality vegetables being very reasonably priced at Hyde Park Produce, the total cost of the dish was about seven dollars to feed four people. And the shakshuka
only took about 15 minutes to throw together! All we had to do was sauté the onions, garlic, and jalapeños in a saucepan, and then add the crushed canned tomatoes and water to thin. We let this simmer and added spices to taste. Finally, and perhaps most excitingly, we cracked six eggs over the stew, letting it cook into the dish. It was delicious, nutritious, and really provided an exotic taste and variation. If there is anything that a college student can do to get away from the tedium of the dining hall while on a budget, making this dish is the way to go. features 17
SPICE IT UP
how to take date night to the next level
by // catalina parra + dalton hammond There are only so many times you can sit through an awkward date night, order a cheap caesar salad, and pretend to talk about how “put together” your life is. You watch a moderately entertaining movie and strategically conserve over-buttered popcorn, but we know that popcorn was finished before the movie even started. It’s ok, everyone knows the trailers are the most interesting part anyway. A newcomer to Chicago might be surprised at how subtly romantic it is: the city lights shimmering on Lake Michigan, the shivery wind making hand holding more comfortable, and of course, the multitude of restaurant options. Show your S.O., and yourself, how amazing this city is, and how amazing you are for each other. Cozy up, put your arms around each other, and take a short pre-dinner stroll around Lincoln Park. Take this time to truly get to know one another. Find out more about bae’s moms, talk about your favorite books, get a little deep: with Chicago’s lights towering over you and the sound of waves crashing, it’s easier to get to those emotional places. If you’re a fan of Italian cuisine — who isn’t? — try Riccardo Trattoria, located at 2119 N Clark St, a couple blocks west of Lincoln Park. This restaurant has a homey vibe; it’s intimate and serves uninhibited Italian food, just good food simply plated with fantastic flavors. The menu is extensive, offering a variety of pastas, meats, and fish, guaranteeing satisfaction whether you’re craving something in particular or want to try something new. This menu, accompanied by the large wine list and helpful wait-staff, will provide the perfect pairing for your palette. Speaking of drinks, the date isn’t
18 nonpareil | autumn 2015
over. A Lincoln Park treasure is the Barrelhouse Flat, a 1920’s nightclub vibe at 2624 N Lincoln Ave, only a short fifteen minute walk from Riccardo Trattoria. Barrelhouse offers a true romantic feeling, with red velvet booths and intricate cocktails — the perfect way to end a date. So instead of a traditional (or boring) date, take a step back to truly plan something special. The traditional date, though a step up from no date at all, can still seem contrived and formulaic. Instead of looking toward checkered tablecloths and spaghetti and meatballs, be spontaneous and exciting; dare I say improvise? Try going to Second City Theater. The famed improv troupe with roots at UChicago has been producing quality comedy and manufacturing superstars for half a century, and it will not disappoint as a venue for your next date. Second City comfortably seats groups by and around tables, allowing for easy interaction between acts, and waiters serve drinks throughout the show. While the theater does sell food, instead try one of the many restaurants near Second City instead, like Salpicón on 1252 N Wells St. As a high-end Mexican restaurant, Salpicón combines a romantic atmosphere with bold and exotic tastes. Michelin Guide hails Chef Priscila Satkoff as Chicago’s “unsung hero of contemporary Mexican cuisine.” For the 21 and up, Salpicón offers one of the most extensive tequila lists at a restaurant this side of the border. Instead of sticking to the statusquo, take bae somewhere new and refreshing. Chicago has so much to offer, so step out of your comfort zone to make your date truly delicious.
1
take a walk through Lovely lincoln Park
2
grab early dinner at Riccardo Trattoria
3 4
enjoy drinks at the Barrelhouse Flat
5
finish the night at Salpicon
catch a show at Second City Theater
photos by catalina parra
FEATURED FOODIE:
By // Genevieve iwanicki + Isabella Iwanicki aving unfortunately never been to Paris, our knowledge of French cuisine previously consisted of little besides flaky croissants and fancy-sounding dishes like coq a vin and bouillabaisse. But we picked up David Lebovitz’s “The Sweet Life in Paris” when deep in an obsession with food memoirs, thinking Paris was a city to learn more about from an insider’s point of view. Who better to represent an entire city than a chef like Lebovitz? Lebovitz paints a Paris close to the snobby, eccentric city that Americans often are guilty of picturing, but his Paris has a character all its own. His humorous writing breathes color into every aspect of Parisian life, be it the French attitude toward food or the taboo around ordering water with dinner. Bright descriptions and rich smells and tastes tied up together with funny anecdotes vibrantly shows his journey of becoming a native of Paris. And most importantly, his descriptions of food can make anyone instantly starving; while reading you’ll find yourself reaching around for something sweet — some quality dark chocolate, a Nutella croissant or two — throughout the entirety of the book. Starting his memoir off with his time at Chez Panisse, Alice Waters’ famous restaurant in Berkeley, CA, Lebovitz quickly moves into how his experiences in California shaped his desire to live and learn in Paris. And from there, the book becomes a poignant (and comical) remembrance of his fascinating experience living in the world capital of food. Everything from advice to anecdotes is freely shared, giving even the most clueless reader instant insight into the completely different world of Parisian attitude, style, and cuisine. Lebovitz’s anecdotes never disappointed; you’ll be kept in stitches for nearly the entire memoir. Stories about him ironing his pajamas in a full embrace of the Parisian philosophy to always look your best, to
H
using an oversized shopping basket to ward off old ladies in the grocery store who would try to cut him in line, gave an instant warm personality to the book that continued on every page. The chapter “What they say versus what they mean” was easily the funniest — Lebovitz recounts his experiences with being told “No” in various situations by a Parisian and translates for the reader what each “No” is really saying. For example, being told that an item isn’t available is, in Lebovitz’s eyes, a cue that the salesperson is about to go on break and doesn’t intend to waste time finding the item to sell to the customer. His humorous translations of French culture add a spin to every situation he finds himself in. Dessert addicts will find another important aspect of Lebovitz’s memoir is his focus on sweets and snacks. An entire chapter devoted to Parisian hot chocolate shared where to find the best hot chocolate in Paris and revealed the author’s desperate attempts to discover one cafe’s secret ingredients. There were even entire chapters on Parisian cheese and coffee, with the former detailing how to eat cheeses like camembert and brie to fully enjoy their flavors. Recipes are also included at the end of each chapter, not just limited to desserts. However, the chocolate mousse, chocolate spice bread, and mocha creme fraiche cake were easily the most delicious. Just by reading the “The Sweet Life in Paris,” we’ve picked up more information than ever thought possible on the nature of French food culture. Everything from Parisian attitude to everyday lifestyle revolves around food, whether grocery shopping, stopping in on street markets, or enjoying a simple snack. Parisians, Lebovitz argues, simply enjoy their food, and by extension, their lives. And that theme in Leibovitz’s hands lends itself to the joyous, enchanting spin of the entire memoir.
photos courtesy of public domain
features 19
hyde park preview:
PACKED
20 nonpareil | autumn 2015
Executive chef Mike Sheerin and partner Aaron DiMaria aim to introduce the innovative world of unconvential dumplings to 57th street diners By Martha Teka + Lilly Guo This winter, a new eatery will be hitting Hyde Park. PACKED: Dumplings Reimagined, Chef Mike Sheerin and his partner Aaron DiMaria’s newest project, will be opening in mid-December in what was formerly Edwardo’s Natural Pizza at 1321 E. 57th Street. Joining the rising trend of fastcasual restaurants, PACKED will offer quick service without sacrificing wholesome and quality food. The restaurant will be counter-style, similar to that of nextdoor Z&H. In an interview, Sheerin lays out the motivation to go this route, explaining, “That’s where the millennials are heading; fast-casual is a dining scene that has quickly gained a lot of relevance.” With Sheerin’s experience at award-winning fine dining establishments such as Blackbird, Embeya, and Cicchetti, PACKED already has high expectations in the culinary world; despite this being his first time entering the fast-casual field, popular publications such as ZAGAT, Chicago Eater, and Food Republic are already calling Sheerin’s restaurant one of the most anticipated Chicago openings in the season. As the name suggests, PACKED aims to present the popular Chinese dish of dumplings in a way never seen before. “They definitely won’t be traditional; you can expect many different takes on the classic dumpling,” Sheerin says. The menu will feature creations such as French onion xiao long baos, Swiss cheeseburger-inspired dumplings, a white chocolate and strawberry dish, and other unconventional
Photos courtesy of PACKED cross-culture combinations. Although the flavors are far from typical, Sheerin emphasizes that he and DiMaria do not want this to deter the everyday consumer — “We want the food to be relatable; we’re more focused on just making good food.” Beyond dumplings, PACKED will also include side menu items varying from mac-n-cheese to butternut squash soup. The spot plans to be BYOB and have hours from 11AM-11PM, with prices expected to be around $10-$13. In bold letters, PACKED proudly advertises “LOCAVORES WANTED” on their site, emphasizing a commitment to locally-sourced ingredients. “The menu will change monthly, reflecting what’s in season with the Midwest farms we are working with,” says DiMaria. As far as the inspiration for the name “PACKED” goes, DiMaria explains, “It was a playful descriptor of what I think of when I hear the word dumpling. And it connotes something I hope the restaurant atmosphere will be — lively, bustling, happening, now.” When asked whether PACKED is a fusion restaurant, Sheerin replies, “You could say that. More than anything, it’s about bringing good flavors together and making good food.” Sheerin has assured us that PACKED plans to bring quite a bit to 57th street this winter. When asked what ultimately both students and the locals of Hyde Park have to look forward to, Sheerin is quick to quip, “awesome-deliciousness.”
features 21
Adapted from Leslie Bilderback
{
PEPPERMINT MUG CAKE N
othing rings more of Christmas cheer than a cup of cocoa. Why not chew it, too? This microwavable mug cake will make you want to cuddle and sing carols. This dense chocolate cake is made with plenty of chocolate chips to satisfy holiday cravings, with a prep time that you can fit in between Black Friday sales and Santa photo ops at the mall. Release your family get-together frustrations by handcrumbling candy canes in a plastic baggie for a minty mix-in and crunchy topping. Maybe even consider sharing with one of those people somehow related to you, as this recipe makes two servings.
PREP <5 minutes COOK 2 minutes MAKES 2 servings
}
by // Alden Herrera photos // Andrew gleason get
For the batter • 2 tbsp. unsalted butter • ¼ cup dark chocolate chips (semisweet or bittersweet) • 1 large egg • 3 ½ tbsp. milk • ¼ cup granulated sugar • 2 tbsp. self-rising flour • 2 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder • Pinch of kosher salt • ¼ cup crushed candy canes Toppings • whipped cream • vanilla frosting • chocolate ganache • crushed peppermint sticks • shaved chocolate • crumbled gingersnaps do
1. Combine the butter and chocolate chips in a large mug. Microwave for 30 to 60 seconds until melted. Whisk with a fork to combine. 2. Whisk in the egg. 3. Stir in the milk and sugar. 4. Add the flour, cocoa, and salt. Beat the batter until smooth. 5. Fold in crushed candy canes. 6. Divide the batter between 2 mugs. 7. Microwave separately for 1 ½ to 2 ½ minutes each until risen and firm. 22 nonpareil | autumn 2015
• 1 cup raw pecans • ½ cup semisweet chocolate chunks do
For the crust 1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, and salt. 2. Cube the stick of butter into ½-inch pieces, putting it back into the fridge as needed to keep it very cold. Temperature is very important! 3. Sprinkle the cold butter cubes over the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender (or a pair of forks), work the butter into the dry ingredients until the butter pieces are all approximately the size of small peas. 4. Sprinkle ¼ cup of the cold water over the mixture. Using a rubber spatula, start gathering the dough together. 5. Add water one tablespoon at a time as you pull the dough together, until it comes together in a ragged ball. Use your hands to gently pat the dough into a thick disk. 6. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and keep it in the fridge, chilling it for at least an hour, though preferably two or more.
CHOCOLATE BOURBON PECAN PIE T by // mary bittner + aneesa sonawalla photos // aneesa sonawalla
here’s a popular quote in Kentucky that says, “I’d rather be someone’s shot of bourbon than everyone’s cup of tea.” Substitute “shot of bourbon” with “slice of chocolate bourbon pecan pie” and the phrase adequately describes our feelings about this recipe. Looking for a way to spice up your holidays? Bake a pie that simultaneously celebrates American whiskey, gets you through awkward family get-togethers and combines all your favorite indulgences in one addictive dessert. This recipe features oven-caramelized pecans, chunks of gooey semi-sweet chocolate and a buttery, flaky crust that makes you reconsider previous notions of not being a “crust person.” The overall flavor is intoxicating—quite literally. Warning: This is a pie where plates are not necessary, just the pan and a fork. get
For the crust: • 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour • 1 ½ tsp. granulated sugar • ½ tsp. salt • 1 stick unsalted butter, cold • ½ cup ice water For the filling: • 1 cup granulated sugar • 1 cup plus 2 tbsp. light corn syrup • ½ tsp. salt • 3 large eggs • 1 tsp. vanilla extract • 3 tbsp. bourbon (we used Jack Daniels) • ½3 cup melted unsalted butter
For the filling and to assemble: 1. Preheat oven to 375°F 2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together sugar, corn syrup, salt, eggs, vanilla, bourbon, and melted butter. 3. Remove chilled dough from the fridge and place on a floured surface. 4. Roll out dough until it is large enough to cover the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie dish. 5. Line pie dish with dough, allowing uneven edges to hang over the sides. 6. Place pecans and chocolate chunks into the pie dish over the dough, spreading them out evenly along the bottom of the pie. 7. Pour filling mixture over the pecans and chocolate. 8. Tuck the extra pie dough under itself so that the edge of the pie crust lines up with the edge of the dish. Crimp edges with fork if desired. 9. Place pie dish on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any overflow, then place in oven. 10. Bake pie at 375°F for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350°F, then bake for another 30-45 minutes. When finished, the pie crust will be golden brown on the edges.
{
PREP 1 hour COOK 45 minutes MAKES 8 servings
} recipes 23
get
• 4 tbsp. butter • ¼3 cup all purpose flour • 1 ¼ cup skim milk • 1 cup heavy cream • 1 ½ tsp. smoked paprika • ½ tsp. white pepper • 1 pinch salt • 6 oz. block sharp ccheddar (1 cup grated) • 1 cup grated Monterey Jack • Boxed macaroni (enough for 8 servings) 1 bunch fresh mint (optional) do
1. Prepare macaroni as instructed on package. You can begin to make the cheese sauce while the macaroni is cooking. 2. In a small saucepan, melt butter on low heat. Do not let it brown. 3. Once the butter is gently bubbling, carefully add in the flour. 4. Constantly whisk the butter and flour, without stopping, until the floury smell is gone, about 5 minutes. Use either a whisk or fork. 5. Add the milk gradually while whisking. Add the cream. 6. Add the paprika and pepper. Add salt to taste. 7. While the cheese sauce comes to a simmer (10-15 minutes), grate the cheddar, occasionally stopping to stir the sauce. 8. When the cheese sauce reaches a certain temperature, it will bubble and start to thicken. At this point, add the cheddar and Monterey Jack and stir until incorporated. 9. Just before serving, tear off some mint leaves to garnish.
{
PREP 10 minutes COOK 20 minutes MAKES 8 servings
}
MAC AND CHEESE by // naomi gancz photos // delia sosa
W
hen winter starts to howl outside, your stomach starts to howl for comfort food. This recipe is an easy alternative to a long, icy trek to the dining hall, and that soft macaroni oozing with rich, gooey cheese sauce is sure to give you that warm and fuzzy feeling inside that you just can’t seem to get from your love life. Be sure to buy un-grated sharp cheddar, since pre-grated cheese loses most of its flavor. The Monterey Jack can be pre-grated because we’re using it for texture more so than flavor. You can switch out the spices to your taste; for example, you could throw in some rosemary, or use cayenne pepper instead of paprika. You can also substitute the cream with more skim milk for a healthier version. The mint is optional, but it makes a lovely garnish and lightens up the taste of what is otherwise a very heavy dish. This recipe turns out a lot of mac, so call over your friends! 24 nonpareil | autumn 2015
VEGAN SNICKERS PANCAKES
by // Bia Jazbik photos // Serena Kini Cramer eekends are for relaxing, going out, and most importantly, brunch! When I think of a typical brunch I picture endless varieties of french toast, Eggs Benedict, and of course pancakes. All without a doubt delicious, but generally not considered vegan-friendly. These Snickers pancakes are the perfect way to indulge in those natural Sunday brunch cravings, while avoiding the use of any animal products. The pancakes themselves are not overly sweet, but when paired with the chocolate and maple syrup, reach a perfect balance of flavors. The chocolate, peanuts, and maple syrup, reach a perfect balance of flavors. The chocolate, peanuts, and maple syrup all go perfectly with the pancakes and really bring together the Snickers bar taste. Not to mention, the crunch of the peanuts and chocolate adds great texture to the incredibly fluffy pancakes. If you are a vegan who has been missing out on the wonders of brunch, or you are just someone who appreciates a great tasting pancake, this reciple is a quick, easy, and healthy one that you will not regret trying.
W
{
PREP 5 minutes COOK 5 minutes MAKES 8 pancakes
} get
• ½ cup and 4 tbsp. whole wheat flour • ¼3 cup rolled oats • 1 tbsp. sugar • ½ tbsp. baking powder • A pinch of salt • 1 cup soy milk • 1 tsp. vanilla extract • ¼ cup roasted peanuts, roughly chopped • ¼ cup vegan chocolate, roughly chopped • Maple syrup do
1. Combine all dry ingredients into a large bowl and mix: flour, oats, sugar, baking powder, salt. 2. In a separate bowl mix together wet ingredients: soy milk and vanilla extract (you can also use vanilla soy milk if desired). 3. Once the wet and dry ingredients are combined, add half of the roasted peanuts and chocolate into the batter and mix together. Save the remaining peanuts and chocolate to use as a garnish for the finished pancakes. 4. Add a drop or two of oil into a pan and allow to warm up over medium heat. Once the pan is hot, add 1/4 cup of batter and cook until sides easily lift. Flip the pancake over and cook for an additional minute or so. 5. Stack pancakes and place remaining peanuts and chocolate on top and finish by drizzling the pancakes with maple syrup. recipes 25
TOM AND JERRY
by // mike harrison photos // hannah ni
The Tom and Jerry is a classic hot cocktail, and has existed in in New England in some form for over 200 years. The Tom and Jerry got its name from legendary bartender Jerry Thomas, who claimed to have invented it in 1847; however, various sources can be found referencing the drink as early as 1820, proving his origin story false. The Tom and Jerry has been a popular wintertime libation for centuries, and everyone should experience the profound contentedness of drinking one while wrapped in a blanket on a snowy day at least once in their lives. get
For the batter: • 2 large eggs • 3 oz. cane sugar • ½ oz. dark rum (Diplomatico Reserva used in this recipe) • 1 pinch ground clove • 1 pinch allspice • 1 pinch ground nutmeg For the cocktail: • 1 ½ oz. batter • 1 ½ oz. rum or brandy (rum, El Dorado 12 Year used in this recipe) • 3 oz. hot milk • 1 pinch ground nutmeg
get
• 1 cup whole milk • ~1 oz. dark chocolate • Slight pinch cayenne pepper • 1 ½ oz. tequila (Milagro reposado) • Cinnamon stick do
1. Heat milk, chocolate, and cayenne pepper in a saucepan until chocolate has melted, stirring regularly 2. Combine tequila and hot chocolate mixture in a mug and stir 3. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. 26 nonpareil | autumn 2015
do
For the batter 1. Separate yolks from egg whites. Beat egg yolks until smooth. 2. Add rum and spices and stir. 3. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until stiff and foamy. 4. Slowly fold egg yolk mixture into the whites, regularly stirring to incorporate. Add sugar slowly, and mix until sugar is dissolved. For the cocktail 1. add batter, spirit, and hot milk to a mug and stir. 2. Sprinkle grated nutmeg over the top for garnish.
MEXICANO HOT CHOCOLATE by // mike harrison photos // hannah ni Fred Yarm’s tequila-spiked hot chocolate recipe is rich and decadent, but not too sweet thanks to the use of dark chocolate. The cayenne pepper and cinnamon combine with a slight alcohol bite and the temperature of the beverage to create an interesting heat, giving the drink a dimension beyond the strong chocolate flavor. It’s easy to make, delicious, and full of tequila, so it’s more or less the ideal drink. adapted from recipe by fred yarm for mixology monday xxxiv
HOT APPLE GREEN TEA TODDY
by // mike harrison photos // hannah ni
The Blue Grass Cook Book, published in 1904, makes this hot toddy recipe with boiling water instead of green tea. You can actually substitute various teas in for this recipe. Each will make a very different drink, but many types will work well. Additionally, a rosemary sprig will work well, albeit very differently, as a garnish. This is a drink to warm up with on a freezing day; the apple and sugar will cut the alcohol a bit, but the temperature brings out a definite burn. This is a good thing. Embrace it. You aren’t cold anymore, right? get
• 1 medium-sized Gala apple • 1 oz. simple syrup* • 1 oz. rye whiskey (Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond) • ½ oz. dark rum (El Dorado 12 Year) • Hot green tea • 1-2 sticks cinnamon • 1 lemon wedge *To make simple syrup, heat equal parts by volume of cane sugar and water in a saucepan until fully dissolved. do
1. Roast apple in the oven for 35 minutes at 400°F. 2. After removing the skin, core, and seeds, pulverize the apple with the simple syrup in a blender until smooth 3. In a mixing glass, combine apple-syrup mixture, whiskey and rum and stir 4. Pour into a mug or teacup and top with hot green tea 5. Garnish with cinnamon sticks and lemon wedge. Enjoy hot! recipes 27