nonpareil
THE UNIVERSITY OF CHICAGO FOOD MAGAZINE
explore, taste, create. the global issue // winter 2015
TABLE OF CONTENTS
4 global groceries 7 the right spice 8 explore: pilsen 10 cocktails around the world 12 Q&A: home away from home 13 taste of rio 14 Explore: ukranian village 16 thai showdown 17 staropolska 18 garifuna flava 19 ghareeb nawaz 20 irazu 21 shokran moroccan 22 chicken adobo 23 chocolate babka 24 hummus 25 scottish shortbread 26 roti Editor-in-Chief Joe joseph Head of Design Zelda Mayer Head of photography Kristin Lin Treasurer Hannah Bao head of programming julie khidekel webmaster geoffrey wang social media mangers finn jubak, evangel jung Design Jenna Dorfman, Jenny mao, Joe Joseph, Michael Wheeler, Zelda Mayer Content editors celine kwon, fatima omar, finn jubak, joe joseph writers Aleena Beydoun, Andrew Koski, Elora Basu, Fatima Omar, Genevieve Iwanicki, Georgia Dixon, Javon Brown, Karen Sung, Maria Alvarez, Martha Teka, Michael Stamos, Michael Wheeler, Michelle Ling, Serena Kini Cramer, Shayna Inzunza, Shira Fishbach photographers Audrey Mang, Darien Ahn, Fatima Omar, Finn Jubak, Holly Zaharchuk, Joe Joseph, Katarina Mentzelopoulos, Kristin Lin, Martha Teka, Peggy Xu, Sahil Chatterji, Shayna Inzunza, Shira Fishbach, Spencer Chan cover andrea rummel, aneesa sonawalla, darien ahn, evangel jung, fatima omar, frank qian, hannah bao, holly zaharchuk, katarina mentzelopoulos, kristin lin, liam lee, peggy xu, shayna inzunza, shira fishbach, spencer chan Dear Foodies and Friends, Last issue we focused on the sustainable and locally sourced foods that stay true to Chicago’s roots in the American Midwest. This issue, Nonpareil explores the other side of Chicago’s identity by delving into the vibrant world of the city’s 77 community areas, each a microcosm of cultures and cuisines from around the world. We invited our staff to unearth the culinary puzzle pieces that make up Chicago through features and reviews and showcase their own recipes as citizens in a city of global cuisine. Now, we invite you to do the same, using the pages of this issue as a jumping off point for your own exploration. Start by gathering the necessary ingredients at one of many global groceries that stock items like Bulgarian goat cheeses and Jamaican Ginger Beer (p. 5), or take the plunge into Chicago’s own Pilsen (p. 8) or Ukranian Village (p. 14) and discover how a day spent in each neighborhood can reveal the true extent of Chicago’s global identity. Move on to restaurants that we’ve hand-picked and reviewed in order to represent an array of authentic and diverse flavors. Finally, uncover culinary creations to replicate on your own, such as home-cooked and hearty Chicken Adobo from the Philippines (p. 22) or buttery baked shortbread from the Scottish Highlands (p. 25). We hope that through this issue we can convey the significance of food as both an individual expression of culture and a vehicle of shared experience. Join us as we explore, taste, and create all that makes Chicago the culinary epicenter it has grown to become. Happy eating!
- The Editors
GLOBAL GROCERIES JP Graziano Grocery Co.
901 West Randolph Street, Chicago, IL 60607
J
cannoli
by georgia dixon photos by spencer chan
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Devon Market
1440 west devon avenue, Chicago, IL 60660
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by georgia dixon photos by spencer chan
kamdar plaza
2646 West Devon Avenue, Chicago, IL 60659
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by georgia dixon photos by spencer chan
features
5
Joong Boo Market
3333 North Kimball Avenue, Chicago, IL 60618
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by Michael stamos photos by Kristin Lin
Rogers Park Fruit Market 7401 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60626
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by michael stamos photos by sahil chatterji 6
nonpareil | winter 2015
top 10 SPICES IN MIDDLE EASTERN COOKING
THE RIGHT SPICE BY ALEENA BEYDOUN // PHOTOS BY SAHIL CHATTERJI
CUMIN
infographic adapted from about.com // photos from public domain
I NUTMEG
CARDAMOM
TUrMERIC
SUMAC
n a city as large as ours, all types of cuisines should be readily accessible; however, finding truly authentic Middle Eastern food can be a challenge. After a difficult search, I have found the food at Kan Zaman, located downtown at 617 N. Wells Street, to be some of the most authentic in the city. Kan Zaman, which serves Lebanese cuisine, does not tailor its taste to an American palate, but stays true to the flavors and spices found in the Middle East. Signature tastes in the region often include lemon, garlic, parsley, and a plethora of rich olive oil. All of these, plus certain spices traditionally used in Lebanon, like za’atar (dried thyme mixed with sesame seeds and sumac), are highlighted and emphasized in their dishes. Their menu includes everyday favorites such as falafel and hummus, but also offers a more authentic experience, featuring kibbeh (fried bulgur stuffed with ground beef and onion), labneh (strained yogurt), and foul mudammas (pureed fava bean with parsley and garlic). Their pita bread, which is used in a large range of dishes,
points to their authenticity. I was happily surprised to find a traditional pita when I ordered a chicken shawerma sandwich. Often what you find in supermarkets is thick pita that is about 8 inches in diameter; however, a traditional pita comes very thin, with a diameter around 12 inches. Authentic pita is much lighter and more flexible, so that it can be used to scoop dips like foul mudammas and baba ghannouji more readily. It is also commonly used to make sandwiches, not by stuffing it, but by using it in a manner very similar to a wrap. If you can’t make it downtown in between papers and tests, a good alternative exists right on Ellis Avenue. While it is not there every day, The Big Shish food truck often lines up among the rest of the trucks during the week. Their pita is not as authentic but they do offer up very tasty traditional meals. Their menu includes a variety of starters and salads, as well as mains such as gyros and chicken kebabs. Uniquely, they offer a variety of sauces from all over the Middle East so you can tailor your experience to your own taste buds. If you’re running late and don’t have time to run to a dining hall, I would highly recommend stopping by for a delicious, fresh meal at The Big Shish food truck.
BAHARAT
CARAWAY
ANISEED
ALLSPICE
CINNAMON
features
7
Pilsen
EXPLORE:
BY ANDREW KOSKI PHOTOS BY FINN JUBAK
P
1
ilsen, located on the Lower West Side of Chicago, is a neighborhood
CENTRAL BAKERY
2
8
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TAQUERIA EL MILAGRO
3
CARNITAS DON PEDRO
5
NUEVO LEON RESTAURANT
some of the best carnitas
chicharr贸nes
a steak tostada, tostada
after the chicharr贸nes ranchera was the
these carnitas
4
CAFE JUMPING BEAN
and comfortable with local art adorning the of traditional coffee drinks and sandwiches, is the chocolate mexicano
features
9
COCKTAILS AROUND THE WORLD 10 nonpareil | winter 2015
by shayna inzunza photo by shayna inzunza
At some point in college, we all come to terms with adulthood. Maybe we begin this process by getting enough sleep or eating balanced meals, but soon enough, some of us also start to delve into the magical world of spirits that lies beyond frat parties and jungle juice. While we might not be old enough to sit in a leather wing-backed chair in a velvet robe with a snifter of brandy, the world of cocktails is still very much attainable for college students. Classic cocktails of the world only need a few types of basic alcohol: vodka, rum, gin, and whiskey. Each of these spirits has a unique of its origin. Using these four basic spirits from around the world, anyone can elevate their drinking game above the likes of cheap vodka punch that leaves you with a bad taste in your mouth and an even worse hangover. Using some simple ingredients and bartending know-how you can be prepared to turn any dorm room or apartment party into a classy cocktail affair.
V
odka is easily one of the most ubiquitous spirits on a college campus as well as one of the most versatile. Traditionally from Eastern Europe and made from fermented potatoes, vodka’s neutral flavor makes it a goto alcohol in any type of drink that has other strong flavors. While a Screwdriver (vodka and orange juice) is a standard around college campus, a Greyhound is the easy-to-make, yet refined alternative. The sour bite from the grapefruit and lime juice makes for a refreshing drink on a hot day. Greyhound t *DF DVCFT t P[ WPELB t ž P[ MJNF KVJDF t (SBQFGSVJU KVJDF t -JNF XFEHF 1. Shake the vodka and lime juice with ice. 2. Strain over ice in an old-fashioned glass and top with grapefruit juice. 3. Garnish the glass with the lime wedge.
D
eparting from Eastern Europe we move on to the Caribbean to look at another alcoholic staple: rum. Rum is made from sugar cane and plays a large role in the West Indies. White rum is good for cocktails, while golden and dark rum are for use in cooking or for sipping straight. Although it may be easier to pour a Rum and Coke, it is easy to create a refreshing Mojito and transport yourself from wintry Chicago to the sands of a tropical island.
N
Mojito t )BOEGVM PG NJOU MFBWFT t UTQ TVHBS t MJNF XFEHFT t $SVTIFE JDF t P[ XIJUF SVN t 4PEB XBUFS
Martini t › P[ ESZ WFSNPVUI t P[ HJO t -FNPO SJOE PS PMJWF
1. Muddle the mint, sugar, and lime in a Collins glass. 2. Fill glass with crushed ice, pour over the white rum, and stir. 3. Top with soda water and garnish with a sprig of mint and a straw.
ext we head over to England, where gin has been consumed since the Middle Ages. Gin gets its unique flavor from juniper berries. Although it was originally used as a medicine, it is now used in one of the most well known cocktails throughout the world: the Martini. This may be one of the most sophisticated yet simple drinks you can add to your bartending repertoire instead of that boring Gin and Tonic.
1. Freeze a cocktail glass for a few minutes while you get the other ingredients ready. 2. Take out the glass and swirl the vermouth around the glass. Drain any excess. 3. Shake gin with ice in a cocktail shaker until there is frost on the outside of the shaker, or stir gin with ice in a mixing glass. 4. Strain into cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon rind or olive.
M
oving into the United States we take a look at whiskey and bourbon. American whiskey is made from distilled cereal grains, and bourbon is made from distilled corn. While whiskey is often thought of as expensive and unattainable for college students, you really just have to be willing to invest a few extra dollars in a middle tier bottle. The result is the warming, classic cocktail, the Manhattan (which will prove much better than that cheap whiskey you’re struggling to drink to look cool). Manhattan t *DF DVCFT t P[ CPVSCPO t P[ TXFFU WFSNPVUI t EBTIFT BOHPTUVSB CJUUFST t .BSBTDIJOP DIFSSZ 1. Place the ice cubes in a mixing glass. 2. Stir together the bourbon, sweet vermouth, and angostura bitters. 3. Strain into a cocktail or old-fashioned glass and garnish with the cherry. features 11
Q&A
home away from home
For international first-year students at UChicago, home may be closer than they think. After interviewing students from around the world, the strong ties between food and their perception of home became clear. In fact, the key to reaching home might not lie in expensive plane tickets, but in the simple act of eating. By Maria Alvarez Jean-Baptiste Reynier, France Nonpareil: What food do you miss the most? JBR: Cheese. NP: Can you find this in Chicago? JBR: No, cheese in France is unpasteurized and there is no way to find this here because you guys have strict laws on pasteurization. Unpasteurized cheese has a very distinct taste. Also, the food trucks on campus are not really comparable, though they are better than nothing. Manasvi Sagarkar, India NP: What is your favorite food from back home? MS: Paneer makhani with Rice. NP: What food do you miss the most? MS: Varan bhaat. NP: What is a typical dish from your region? MS: Puran Poli. However this is more of a specialty dish, but it is typical of my region. Mariana Lepecki, Brazil NP: What is your favorite food from back home? ML: I have a lot of things but one of my favorites is feijoda. It is this bean stew kind of thing. NP: What food do you miss the most? ML: I miss this [feijoda] a lot. NP: How do you make it? ML: The basics are beans with fresh pork. I eat with arroz, rice. Corinne Riley, Italy NP: What is your favorite food from back home? CR: Pasta with tomato sauce and ricotta all mixed together. NP: Favorite pasta shape? CR: Tagliatelle. NP: What food do you miss the most? CR: Definitely the cheese and the cured meats like prosciutto crude, bresaola, lard, mortadella. Also filled pasta like tordelloni (fresh egg pasta filled with meat or ricotta and spinach).”
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NP: Is there anywhere in Chicago that you can find food from back home? CR: Not that I know of. Eataly actually is extremely close—the only problem is that it’s not that cheap. NP: Is there any food from your country that you can recreate easily? CR: Pasta with pesto is the easiest. Good pasta is so easy to make it’s ridiculous. The thing about real Italian food is that it’s simple. In Italy it’s all about having good ingredients. An amazing meal can take 10 minutes to put together but three hours to buy. NP: Any recipes you want to share? CR: I don’t have any recipes really. Lots of easy stuff you can make like tomatoes and mozzarella, only if you buy the fresh mozzarella. One amazing thing is this: when fresh figs are in season you make a sandwich, preferably with focaccia, of prosciutto crudo and the figs. Audrey Li, China NP: What food do you miss the most? AL: I can talk about xiaolongbao, a kind of steamed bun wrapped up by really thin and smooth skin, and filled with pork and soup. It originates from southern China, and the ones in Shanghai, Nanjing and Wuxi are especially famous. NP: Is there anywhere in Chicago that you can find food from back home? AL: You can also find [xialongbao] in Chinatown in Chicago. However, the skin is not as thin and the soup is not as tasty as in my hometown, Nanjing. Overall, the xiaolongbao in Chinatown is less delicate than in southern China. One thing to note is that in northern China, it’s hard to find authentic xiaolongbao, either. NP: Is there any food from your country that you can recreate in the dorms? AL: Chinese food requires basic food stuff and condiments like salt, vinegar, sugar, and soy sauce. So you can cook Chinese food easily in the dorms.
Taste W
of by genevieve iwanicki
hen you think of Rio de Janeiro, favela better life have moved here and built a
the city has its own vibrant food culture that reflects its extended history and contemporary lifestyle.
favela
pastel
pastel
features 13
EXPLORE:
UKRANIAN
VILLAGE
by Michelle Ling photos by Darien Ahn
1
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STAR LOUNGE COFFEE BAR What better way to start the day than with a nice cup of coffee? Star Lounge Coffee Bar was the perfect place to give us the burst of energy we needed for our excursion. As we entered through the front door, we could immediately sense the crossroads of a coffee and a bar: a bar seating area ran along one side of the room, but coffee mugs and pastries took the place of martini glasses and bowls of nuts. Sci-fi inspired art lined the walls and a curious disco ball hung from the ceiling. Unfortunately, the outdoor patio was closed due to wintry weather, but graffiti of a smiling cat that adorned the wall could easily be seen from inside, adding to the quirky atmosphere. At Star Lounge, the employers take pride in the Dark Matter Coffee. Overhearing numerous orders of the agave latte by what seemed like regular customers, we opted to go for a regular iced latte and an iced agave latte. Both were fantastic and smooth with creamy consistencies. The iced agave latte reminded us of an elevated version of a chai tea latte. Star Lounge, while crowded, seems like a great place to study, with additional seating upstairs, plenty of outlets, and the classic coffee shop vibe.
2
RICH’S DELI Rich’s Deli is more of an Eastern European grocery store than what one would think of as a true deli. At first, we spent some time wandering through the aisles filled with groceries, snacks, and other items. Most of the inventory was written in various languages, none of which we could understand. After circling the grocery store, we stopped by the deli counter, which included a stock of typical cuts of meats along with different types of sausage, like kielbasa. On the counter lay containers of a variety of pierogies with fillings ranging from sweet blueberry to various meats. After some deliberation, we decided to try the cheese and potato pierogies. We could not help comparing the pierogies to those of the Pierogi Wagon, the food truck that usually sells six pierogies for $8 on Ellis Avenue. Here, the pierogies were only $4.35 for around 15, so be sure to stop by Rich’s Deli for delicious pierogies at half the price.
3
KOMODA
4
HOOSIER MAMA PIE COMPANY
Next, we walked down the street to a small gift shop, Komoda. Whether searching for a cool or silly gift, one can leave with the perfect small trinket. In one corner there was a plethora of embroidered, fuzzy slippers. On the counter was a wide selection of soaps, perfumes, and lotions. Next to these were rings, necklaces, earrings, and all sorts of jewelry. In the middle of the room, a table holds several small plants that just need a few spritzes of water and no soil to survive. They were pretty cute, so we could not resist buying one to liven up our dorm rooms. From scarves to matchboxes to licorice pipes, Komoda seemed like the perfect gift store.
Our last stop was the farthest from the rest, though the long walk was enjoyable as we passed old, brick buildings and beautiful churches. We also passed several taquerías, hair salons, and thrift stores, and almost missed the sign for Hoosier Mama Pie Company. This small, cozy bakery is the epitome of a grandma’s home kitchen. There were only a few seating areas, so we snagged a booth table by the window with pie recipe books standing on a shelf above our heads. While most options on the menu were sweet, there were a few savory pies and quiches as well. We opted for both the chocolate chess pie and the lemon meringue pie, and agreed that the flaky crust really made the pies extraordinary. The chocolate chess was like the best of both worlds—the pie and brownie worlds, that is, and the meringue was voluminous and just tart enough. features 15
REVIEW Showdown:
Hyde Park Pad Thai BY // karen sung
photos By // peggy xu
snail Snail was definitely the busiest and biggest out of all three restaurants, but still provided friendly and efficient service. The decor of the restaurant stands out, with silk drapes, wooden carvings along the walls, and even Valentine’s Day (or if you prefer, Singles Awareness Day) decorations when I went. I’ll admit I was a little confused when our waiter brought us free tortilla chips to start, considering we were at a Thai restaurant, but nonetheless, the pad Thai was delicious and packed a flavorful punch. My one complaint about the dish would be that the peanuts could have been chopped more finely to make for an easier eating experience, but overall, Snail’s pad Thai experience was very satisfying.
thai 55 Even though Thai 55’s service was subpar in comparison to the other two restaurants, Thai 55’s pad Thai was by far my favorite of the three. The chicken was juicy and savory, and the eggs were fluffy and cooked to perfection. The juice from the lime wedge added a tangy kick to the flavors. My favorite part of the dish was definitely the noodles, which were thicker than both Siam’s and Snail’s noodles. The thicker noodles, along with the finely chopped peanuts, created a wonderful texture balance in the dish that was truly enjoyable.
ner
win
siam Siam Restaurant is easy to miss, as the entrance is obscurely sandwiched between Thai 55 and Snail. Accordingly, Siam Restaurant’s pad Thai was the least memorable of the three. Although Siam Restaurant ultimately emerged as the loser of the showdown, I would like to note the high quality of service, as our waiter was incredibly kind and attentive. When the dish arrived, however, it both looked and tasted a little too watery to be completely enjoyable, as the noodles themselves were soggy. That being said, the chicken was tender and tasty, which brought out more subtle flavors in the dish.
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Review: Staropolska by Michael Stamos // photo by sahil chatterji
H
Have you ever had fine Polish food? Until recently, I had not, and it took a place like Staropolska to convince me I’d really been missing out. I was starving when I got there and stuffed when I left—the food was simply delicious, and a must-try if you’re dining on the North Side. We started with cold appetizers: the herring and the beef carpaccio. The Polish take on raw beef was subtly unusual and absolutely delightful, with an aroma of dill that complimented the richness of the meat. The herring, always my favorite but in this case especially decadent and served with sour cream, is something I would have shipped to my dorm in bulk, if I could. Next we got the baconwrapped plums, potato pancakes, and stuffed mushrooms. “Bacon-wrapped” is always an indicator of deliciousness, but in this case it failed to communicate just how delicious the food was. The plums and pork fat melt on your tongue, and give off a heavenly aroma when paired together. The potato pancakes stood up to some of the best I’ve had, though they were made in a different style. The mushrooms, with prosciutto stuffed inside, had an earthy and unique flavor I would highly recommend. We took a break between courses for some drinks—Staropolska offers a wide variety
of Polish beers and spirits, on top of typical selections. The manager at this point came over to greet my party, asking with pleasure and care about our meal. The service at Staropolska is something special, certainly a place to bring your parents if they are ever in town. We then dove straight into our entrées. We split a Hungarian pancake (served with pork stew), veal cutlet, veal liver, and pork tenderloin. I also tried the sauerkraut and the sweet cheese pierogies. We were absolutely inundated with food. In 15 minutes we’d finished nearly all of it. The Hungarian pancake is something I would never have thought to try, but it was delicious with the pork stew. The cutlet and tenderloin were succulent and tender, and the liver was a scrumptious new experience, though not for the faint of heart. And the pierogies— if you’re in a hurry during lunch, or picking a side with dinner, try the sweet cheese one. It’s something magical. I am not sure why Staropolska is not more widely known at UChicago as a destination for great food, as Polish cuisine, presented in huge, magnificent spreads like those at an Italian or French restaurant, is hard to come by. As part of a culture that is deeply ingrained in Chicago, Staropolska is worth getting to know if you are serious about exploring this city.
Meals Served Lunch, Dinner neighborhood logan square nearby attractions logan theater, hairpin arts center Good For carb-filled comfort
reviews 17
REVIEW: garifuna
flava BY javon brown photos by joe joseph
Although Chicago lies tragically far from the warm shores of the Atlantic Ocean, it’s easy enough to get an authentic Caribbean experience by strolling down to Garifuna Flava, located on the South Side in Marquette Park. Loaded with great food but sadly devoid of hot bodies in scant clothing, Garifuna Flava features cuisine representative of the Caribbean and Central America. Its name comes from the Garifuna people, an ethnic group comprised of indigenous Carib Indians and Africans who settled in Central America after being expelled from their islands by the British. The owners of the restaurant originally hail from Belize; mom runs the kitchen, while dad manages the finances and their children serve as waiters. The Caribbean aura of Garifuna Flava can be felt even before the menu reaches the table. Both the walls and the waiters are draped in bright yellow, reminiscent of the vibrant colors of the West Indies. Gentle Soca music slips the mind out of the hectic city trance and transports it to a relaxed trouble-free plane of existence. The television contributes to the atmosphere with a constant stream of soundless images of authentic Caribbean lifestyle: children playing cricket in the street, people farming and musicians playing in steel-bands. Almost by definition, the cuisine of Garifuna Flava is more fusion than pure Caribbean. There are clear Central American influences on the menu, especially dishes that come from the culinary traditions of Mexico and Guatemala. One example is the use of corn in the panades—fish stuffed into corn-flour shells and fried into a patty form—and tamales, which consist of cornmeal steamed around a chicken drumstick, instead of the conventional
Meals Served Lunch, Dinner neighborhood marquette park
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shredded chicken embedded in cornmeal formulation. Appetizers are served with a side of sweet and spicy vegetable sauce. As the child of two immigrants from the West Indies, I should caution the reader that the chef at Garifuna Flava truly understands the definition of spicy. An entrée at Garifuna Flava is preceded by your choice of green salad or potato salad. The green salad is not particularly special; nothing more than a stretching exercise for your jaw in preparation for the mountains of food to come. I explored both the stewed beef and the jerk chicken, both of which came accompanied with a heaping serving of rice, beans and fried plantains. The beef was cooked tenderly and marinated in a set of spices reminiscent of curry. When sampling the jerk chicken, I frequently turned to the rice and beans to counteract the burning sensation caused by strong spices. Also worth checking out are the side orders and drinks on the menu. The beef patty was possibly my favorite; the seasoning of the meat and the delightful flaky crust received equal attention. Garifuna Flava also offers a range of authentic Caribbean sodas, flavorful smoothies and juices as well as alcoholic drinks. Imbibing the non-alcoholic Sorrel Ginger, the sweet taste of sorrel, also known as the hibiscus flower, swept over my taste buds followed by a quick, delicious punch of ginger. The strength of Garifuna Flava cannot be hidden by a simple lack of convention. The careful seasoning of both the meat entrees and the sides are what sets this restaurant apart. It is surely a South Side must-eat. When confronted with a sudden bout of seasonal affective disorder, head to Garifuna Flava and let your troubles melt away in the Caribbean sun.
nearby attractions Marquette Lagoon Good For Hearty servings of Caribbean flavor
review: ghareeb nawaz BY Elora Basu
photos by audrey mang
ost people walking down West Devon Avenue would likely peek into the timeworn windows of Ghareeb Nawaz and continue on without affording the restaurant another glance. Looks, however, can be deceiving. If you do impulsively decide to enter, do not sit down straightaway at one of the 15 or so tables scattered around the dimly lit restaurant. The restaurant does not employ any wait staff, so you must approach and place your order at the counter, choosing from among the overwhelming number of food options based on small, indistinct pictures printed onto the board overhead. Scanning the names of the dishes, I decided on the chili chicken paratha and the boneless chicken biryani. Paratha is a kind of fluffy bread made of flour, and biryani is a South Asian rice dish consisting of spices, meat, and vegetables. Even though the restaurant was decently crowded with locals, my food was ready in less than five minutes. My hearty dinner cost less than the average meal price at Bartlett ($4 for the chili chicken paratha, and $5 for the chicken biryani), not to mention that the enormous serving size; I had enough food left over for two additional meals. Do not anticipate any frills or glitzy displays of extravagance; the
food was served on a rectangular, compartmentalized, stainless steel plate. You get what you pay for, at least in terms of appearance and presentation. The chili chicken, although a somewhat startling brick red color, consisted of an impeccable blend of spicy and flavorful tastes. The quality of meat was excellent; the pieces were well cooked and extremely tender. Every bite was a delightful blend of curry leaves and green chili. The paratha was light and fried to perfection, and its pairing with the chili chicken was an unexpected yet enjoyable combination, as the warm, fluffy bread served to dilute the spiciness of the chicken. A note of caution: this dish may not be suitable for those who are looking for healthy options, as the chicken was a bit on the oily side. The biryani was just as savory and aromatic, and came served with raita, a type of yogurt sauce. The chicken in the biryani was juicy and appetizing as well. I left the restaurant with a satisfied stomach and heaping leftovers for my fridge. Ghareeb Nawaz is worth a visit if you get the opportunity; all you need is an open mind and ten dollars in your wallet. Although somewhat sparse, this restaurant is a delectable, unique, and authentic experience for all those interested in South Asian cuisine.
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Meals Served open 24/7 neighborhood devon nearby attractions Devon Market (p.5) Good For cheap, no-frills meal reviews 19
REVIEW:
IRAZU
by Serena Kini Cramer photos by Holly Zaharchuk
Meals Served Lunch, Dinner neighborhood bucktown
20 nonpareil | winter 2015
The colorful exterior of Irazu is a welcoming sight on a grey, rainy day. The restaurant, located just north of Wicker Park, has a large covered patio and a smaller indoor seating area, both of which are warm and inviting. Upon stepping indoors, I was overwhelmed by the smell of chips and spiced meat, and the rhythm of faint Latin music in the background. The interior seating area is vibrant, including a mural that spans the entirety of one wall, and the small size of the space—with room for about 10 tables—creates a cozy atmosphere. Upon our sitting down, the waiter promptly brought over a basket of golden brown chips and a squeeze bottle full of salsa verde. The chips, made inhouse and perfectly salted, were thin and crispy, and the salsa imparted just the right amount of spice. The restaurant is clearly committed to maintaining their Costa Rican roots—the entire front of the menu is dedicated to explaining what each traditional dish entails. The other side offers a huge variety of options, including breakfast food served all day. The first item that caught my attention was the oatmeal milkshake; although it sounded strange, I had heard that it was worth trying. The milkshake, made simply from dried oatmeal, sugar, vanilla, and crushed ice was topped with cinnamon. It was deliciously thirst-quenching, like drinking chilly
cinnamon-oatmeal cookie batter. The next dish I ordered was the traditional gallo pinto. According to Irazu, gallo pinto is a common Costa Rican breakfast food—a mix of white and brown rice, black beans, and spices. I ordered mine as a breakfast dish, served with two eggs over easy, avocado, and grilled plantains. It was very simple—no elaborate plating—but high in quality. The eggs were perfectly cooked, and the flavor of the plantains complemented them nicely. A little bit of every part of the meal made for an interesting bite—sweetness from the plantains paired with spiciness from the gallo pinto, and an extra dab of salsa verde for an extra kick. Served alone on a plate with a small container of pico de gallo, Irazu’s empanadas are unassuming. The first bite, however, proves that there is more to them than their simple presentation allows; the crust is flaky and golden brown, and the chicken filling is tender and flavorful, spiced but not too spicy. The basic pico de gallo adds just the right amount of saltiness. The food at Irazu is simple, but made with high-quality ingredients and cooked with skill. My favorite part of the meal was the oatmeal shake, which I can’t imagine ordering anywhere else. The savory food was equally unique, pairing different tastes in unconventional ways.
nearby attractions Flatiron Arts Building, Chopin Theatre Good For dinner after thrifting
REVIEW:
shokran moroccan
by martha teka photo by martha teka Shokran Moroccan Restaurant occupies such a deceivingly small section of front store space in the old neighborhood of Irving Park that I almost missed it. Inside, however, the restaurant is fairly large, divided into multiple rooms with varying seating ranging from restaurant style chairs to traditional Moroccan style seating, complete with padded benches and throw pillows. Though there was a host, my dining companions and I were asked to seat ourselves, and we chose a beautifully decorated room with Moroccan instruments on the walls and decorative blankets elaborately hung up around the ceiling. The focal point of North African cuisine is undoubtedly the seasoning. Moroccan-style cuisine relies on slow, charcoal cooking, especially when it comes to the meat. The goal is to create a crisp charcoal coating outside and a tender interior without burning the spices that give the dish its flavor. Most of the entrées on the menu were lamb or chicken-based with a variety of seasonings so crucial to the taste that they made their way into the names of the dishes. I began with the zaalouk, roasted eggplant cooked with fresh tomato and assorted spices, served with pita bread and olives. The eggplant, my favorite part of the meal, was seeded and well roasted. The dip was salty with a slight bitter after taste. Quickly prepared and casually served, the appetizer is eaten cold and has a consistency similar to coleslaw. I also ordered the chicken bastilla, which was noted as a popular appetizer on the menu. The dish consists of shredded seasoned chicken, stuffed inside of baked filo dough and coated with a layer of beaten eggs, infused with almond paste, orange blossom water, and cinnamon. The dish was like none other I’d had before, and upon first glance, the bastilla appeared to be some sort of dessert. The dough was surprisingly flaky and sweet, much like a traditional European pastry. The chicken was tender, resembling pulled pork, and was more flavorful than the conventional baked chicken offered at many restaurants. We ended our meal with the chicken kebab. Served with rice pilaf
and roasted vegetables, the two skewers of chicken were much more predictable in taste and presentation. However, the peculiar seasoning (homegrown turmeric, coriander, saffron, and mint) really made the kebab stand out. The rice pilaf was standard; it was properly cooked but it did not add so much to the dish. In hindsight, I would recommend trying the dish with couscous (made from small grains of semolina and coated with finely ground wheat flour), a more interestingly textured starch, which the menu proudly declares is “the old national delicacy.” Before you head over, don’t forget that Shokran is BYOB, as well as cash-only. Shokran emphasizes seasoning and spice without serving spicy food. For those without a high tolerance for spicy foods who wish to explore flavorful dishes of other cultures, Shokran is a great place to start.
Meals Served dinner neighborhood irving park nearby attractions Irish American Heritage Center, Villa District Good For classy night on the north side reviews 21
CHICKEN ADOBO
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article by // Shayna Inzunza photos by // Shayna Inzunza
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22 nonpareil | winter 2015
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recipes 23
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PREP 15 minutes COOK 5 minutes MAKES 6-8 servings
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24 nonpareil | winter 2015
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PREP 1 hour COOK 1 hour MAKES 8 servings
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PREP 35 minutes COOK 10 minutes MAKES varied
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IDEAL CONSISTENCY 26 nonpareil | winter 2015
recipes 27
Back Cover: kristin lin
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