The New Franklin Avenue

THE NEW

FRANKLIN A Nikko-Ryan Santillan

AVENUE

Welcome to the Neighborhood

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Location

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Demographics

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Then and Now

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Gentrification

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Culinary Destination

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Looking Forward

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Welcom

me to the neighborhood I discovered Franklin Avenue on a whim. I had just moved to New York from California, had already started Grad ComD classes at Pratt Institute, and was desperate to find a place to live.

The property management company that I had looked at a previous apartment with, called me and said that they were showing an apartment on Franklin Avenue the next morning with a group of guys who were also looking for an apartment.

So, I figured, why not?

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Franklin Avenue was described to me as “the new up-and-coming neighborhood” in Brooklyn.

This is the exact same thing that I heard when apartment hunting up in Washington Heights in terms of Manhattan. New Yorkers must obviously love this phrase… From what I could tell, though, it had a couple of cute, trendy coffee shops, a few restaurants, quite a few

bodegas, and was reasonably priced in terms of New York City. Little did I know, however, that these culinary and commercial options were just the beginning. Franklin Avenue was just beginning its transformation into the up-andcoming Brooklyn neighborhood that it was branded as.

N bedford-stuyvesant prospect heights

park slope

crown heights

LOCATION Franklin Avenue is located along the border of Crown Heights and Prospect Heights in the eighth community district of Brooklyn, New York. For the purpose of this book, however, focus will be placed on the neighborhood bound by Atlantic Avenue to the North, Eastern Parkway to the South, Bedford Avenue to the East, and Classon Avenue to the West.

Dubbed “ProCro� by realtors and developers, and originally known in Brooklyn history as Crow Hill,

there is confusion as to which designated part of Brooklyn that the Franklin Avenue neighborhood actually belongs to. Crown Heights has long been viewed as a grittier part of Brooklyn while Prospect Heights has been more upscale.1 Though a clever tactic for branding an area once characterized by crime and violence, this corridor of Franklin Avenue is therefore a mix of both neighborhoods just as it is a place of mixed cultures.

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DEMOGRAPHICS Franklin Avenue has long been characterized

by African Americans and Caribbean Americans, with hints of Hispanics and Caucasians disbursed throughout. However, the process of neighborhood transformation, also known as gentrification, brings about a distinct change in local demographics that can directly affect the social and economic structures of an area.

Franklin Avenue occupies census tracts 217, 219, 221, and 305 within Brooklyn’s Community District 8.2 In 2010, the neighborhood had a total

population of 16,350, which is a -1.05% decrease compared to the population in 2000, which was 16,368 according to the New York Times’ Mapping the 2010 U.S. Census interactive map.3 Although the overall size of Franklin Avenue has shrunk slightly, the ethnographic change within the neighborhood shows greater change, especially when comparing White, Black, Asian, and Hispanic populations. Since 2000, the amount of Hispanic residents has increase 14.25%, Asian residents have increased

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271%, and White residents have increased dramatically to 856.5%. The only ethnic group to shrink in size is the Black population, which decreased about 30%. With all of this statistical information, it is no wonder that Franklin Avenue is transforming at a very rapid pace.

white

+856.5% asian

+271% hispanic

+14.25% african american

2000–2010

-30%

% Ethnographic change

THEN and NOW 10

This history of Franklin Avenue is complex. It was occupied by British troops following the Battle of Brooklyn in 1776, it housed Budweiser Brewing Company during the Industrial Revolution, was the place where the worst rapid transit accident happened in 1918, and was affiliated with the chaotic Crown Heights Riots in 1991. These events are not all known to neighborhood newcomers, but they are what shaped Franklin Avenue to become the new destination for Brooklyn dwellers today.

british occupation 12

In 1776, British troops took over Brooklyn after the massive retreat of George Washington’s overwhelmed forces at the Battle of Brooklyn.

As they settled down across New York City, a sizable amount of them were headquartered in the village of Bedford. The officers stayed in the homes of Bedford’s prominent citizens, including the homes of the Lefferts family. The British foot soldiers and the Hessian mercenaries who made up the huge occupying army were

camped along the outskirts of the old Clove Road which ran approximately where Bedford Avenue is now. Their camps stretched from Classon Avenue to Eastern Parkway. The center of the Hessian encampment was where Bergen and Franklin Avenues meet, in what is now called Crown Heights, or for some, the Crow Hill section of Crown Heights. The British army stayed there from 1776 through 1783.4

Budweiser brewing co.

The Company’s beginnings go way back to 1849, when Limberger and Walter was founded as a tiny lager beer brewery on Dean Street. The brewery prospered and grew, and then changed ownership in 1866 when Christian Goetz bought the plant.

Goetz called his company the Bedford Brewery and he enlarged it into one of Brooklyn’s more substantial breweries; by 1879 the Bedford Brewery was the 10th largest of Brooklyn’s 43 breweries.

In January of 1884 a group of businessmen headed by William Brown bought the brewery, and things really started to happen! Brown poured considerable amounts of money into new machinery and plant improvements and alterations. As a result, output jumped from 30,000 barrels in 1883 to a tremendous 90,000 just one year later, in 1884. More interesting, however, is the name that was selected for the

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“the perfect concoction 14

new company. Brown had been in the brewing industry for years; he’d been with the venerable Manhattan ale-brewing firm of T.C. Lyman & Co. for a time, and then had been President of the Williamsburgh Brewing Co., on Meserole Street. As he thought of his new brewery, however, he thought in terms of perfection— and he accordingly went to Europe to seek out the perfect beer to emulate back home in Brooklyn. In the Bohemian city of Budweis, in

Czechoslovakia, Brown found the object of his search, for in Budweis there was brewed what he considered the “perfect concoction of malt and hops.” Returning home, Brown used this “perfect concoction” as the model for his own Dean Street output—which he naturally called Budweiser, a name he also adopted as the company’s name.

As might be expected, however, a Budweiser Brewing Co. in Brooklyn didn’t set too well

of malt and hops.” with the folks at Anheuser-Busch out in St. Louis. Anheuser-Busch had been using the name Budweiser for one of their several brands of beer since 1876, had trademarked it in 1878, and, not unexpectedly, were troubled that Brown chose to use the name in Brooklyn. And, making matters worse was the fact that Brown had expanded the market for his Budweiser well past Brooklyn up into New England, and was doing an especially big trade in Boston. Things finally come to a head

in the late 1890’s when Anheuser-Busch brought suit against Brown’s Budweiser Brewing Co. In 1898, rather than defend a suit he obviously thought he’d lose, Brown changed the name of the firm to the Nassau Brewing Co. and ceased all usage of the word Budweiser. As Nassau, the brewery remained in operation until 1914. The brewery buildings are still very much standing and well maintained today.5

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Franklin avenue shuttle 16

Most people are probably familiar with Franklin Avenue because of the Franklin Avenue Shuttle.

The S Franklin Avenue Shuttle train is a twocar train that runs parallel to Franklin Avenue (hence the name) for one and a quarter miles, primarily along a single track. It provides fulltime connection service from the A and C trains at the Franklin Avenue/Fulton Street station in the north, to the B and Q trains at Prospect Park/ Empire Boulevard station in the south, as well as

a transfer connection to the 2, 3, 4, and 5 trains at the Botanic Garden/Eastern Parkway station about halfway through the track.6 It is because of these connections that the Franklin Avenue Shuttle averages 20,000 riders per day.7 One known in the 1990s as the “ghost train� due to stop eliminations and reduced capacity, this small transit line has gone through many changes since its opening in 1878 as part of the

“worst rapid transit accident...

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BMT Brighton Beach Line.8 In 1920, the BMT Brighton Beach Line was eventually shifted and, over time, the Franklin Avenue Shuttle was reduced to full-time service in the 1960s.

Around this time, also, stations and tracks were beginning to deteriorate and the MTA proposed abandoning this line because of cost. However, strong community opposition caused the MTA to reconsider this option, and the Franklin Avenue Shuttle was renovated in 1999 at a cost of $74

million. As a probable result of these renovations, the Franklin Avenue Shuttle was recognized by New York City Transit as the most punctual train in the subway system.7 Aside from all of its structural changes and frequent use, though, the fame of the Franklin Avenue Shuttle dates back to 1918 when the “worst rapid transit accident occurred” in United States history.9 The Malbone Street Wreck, or

... in united states history.�

Brighton Beach Line Accident, occurred the evening of November 1 in an underground tunnel beneath the intersection of Flatbush Avenue, Ocean Avenue, and Malbone Street (now known as Empire Boulevard). Motorman Edward Luciano was operating the Shuttle along a curve designated to be taken at 6 miles per hour, at a speed between 30 and 40 miles per hour. The second and third train cars completely derailed, tearing off their left-hand sides and

most of their roofs, as well as claiming the lives of 93 passengers.9 It is speculated that this transit disaster could have been avoided if it were not for a series of events that led up to placing Luciano in charge of Shuttle operation. The same morning of the accident, the Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers (BLE) went on strike from the Brooklyn Rapid Transit Company, which resulted in a shortage

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of motorman available to operate elevated trains.

Luciano had never operated an elevated passenger train, nor was he familiar with the Brighton Beach Line. Additionally, Luciano had only received two hours of training prior to the disaster, when

normally 60 hours would be required of motoman during that era.9 Regardless of these circumstances, though, this tragic accident is considered one of the worst in transit system history, and it occurred right in Brooklyn.

crown heights riots Although technically on the border of Crown Heights and Prospect Heights, Franklin Avenue has long been considered by residents and Brooklynites as a neighborhood of Crown Heights. It was not until recently that perspective started to shift to the more affluent Prospect Heights, probably because Crown Heights has long been characterized as an area of crime and violence.

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Twenty years ago, Franklin Avenue “was marred by drug dealers and dilapidated storefronts in a neighborhood torn apart by racial and religious violence�.10 The event that led to this scarred area was the Crown Heights Riots. Although the focal neighborhood of this book did not have any publicized significance to the Riots, the racial tension that exists in the area is still prevalent, especially with the influx of mostly white artists, young professionals and families seeking an

affordable place to live in Brooklyn.

The Crown Heights Riots exploded between three communities within Crown Heights, African Americans, Caribbean Americans, and Orthodox Jews. The three-day riot occurred from August 19-21, 1991, and was sparked by the death of seven-year-old Gavin Cato, a son of Guyanese immigrants, by Yosef Lifsh, a driver in the threecar motorcade of Rabbi Menachem Mendel

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“Whose streets?

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Schneerson, leader of the Chabad Lubavitch Hasidic sect. About three hours after the riots began, on the morning of August 20, around 20 young African American men surrounded, beat, stabbed, and eventually murdered a 29-year-old Australian Jew, Yankel Rosenbaum, who was a University of Melbourne student conducting research in the United States.11 During the riots, Jews were targeted and injured,

stores were looted, and cars and homes were damaged. Rioters marched through Crown Heights carrying anti-Semitic signs and an Israeli flag was burned in protest. Rioters were also hostile toward police, throwing bricks and bottles, firing weapons, and pelting and overturning police cars.

After an additional 350 police officers were added to the regular duty roster for Crown Heights on day one of the Riots, an extra 1,200 police officers were sent by day two. On the final day of the Riots,

Our streets!� over 1,800 police officers had been dispatched to stop the chaos. After three days, 152 police officers and 38 civilians were injured, 27 vehicles were destroyed, seven stores were looted or burned, and 225 cases of robbery and burglary were committed. At least 129 arrests were made during the riots, including 122 African Americans and seven Whites. Property damage was estimated at $1 million.11

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gentrification 28

In 2012, Liz Robbins of the New York Times wrote an article that stated, “Franklin Avenue is the epicenter of a renaissance, the next subway stop on Brooklyn’s gentrification express.”10 This is especially true after analyzing the neighborhood demographics previously highlighted.

Gentrification is “the process of renewal and rebuilding accompanying the influx of middleclass or affluent people into deteriorating areas that often displaces poorer residents”.12 In other words, the substantial increase of Whites,

Asians, and Hispanics within Franklin Avenue has therefore displaced one-third of the Black population that used to reside there.

Depending who one talks to, gentrification is either viewed as a good thing or bad thing.

Regardless, though, the influx of young professionals and families seeking affordability in this part of Brooklyn are the direct cause of many new restaurants, bars, boutiques, and, as a result, rent increases.

rent increase 30

It is no lie that Brooklyn’s appeal has increased to New York City newcomers. Manhattan is too expensive, New Jersey has a negative stigma, and Queens and the Bronx are much less favored overall. Therefore, because Brooklyn is so popular, its average rent has increased from $2,322 in 2011 to $3,035 in July 2013 according to a Curbed New York rental market report and New York Daily News article.13 This represents an overall 31% average rent increase in just two years.

Specifically, within the neighborhood of Franklin Avenue, rents have increased just as well. Between 2010 and 2011, as reported by Liz Robbins from the New York Times, “the average rent for a one-bedroom apartment in the neighborhood increased 36%.�14 This is likely the result of the high turnover of discount stores and salons into buzzworthy restaurants and bars that favor a younger, more affluent demographic.

2013

$3,035

2011

$2,322

brooklyn

AVerage rent increase

culinary destination In just the one year since I moved to Franklin Avenue, at least five restaurants have opened along with other coffee shops, bars, and retail stores. As a result, since the neighborhood is easily accessible via subway, it is no wonder why Franklin Avenue has evolved into one of the new culinary destinations in Brooklyn. The following pages highlight some of these new additions to Franklin Avenue’s food and beverage scene.

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restaurants

coffee shops

bars

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54 57 58 61

Güeros Brooklyn Cent’Anni Mayfield Glady’s Barboncino

Little Zelda Breukelen Coffee House The Pulp & The Bean Crosby Coffee

The Crown Inn 739 Franklin 95 South Franklin Park

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58 43

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48 44

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GÜEROS BROOKLYN Güeros Brooklyn is a restaurant towards the north of the neighborhood that specializes in delicious and addicting Tex-Mex tacos. With equally satisfying sides, fresh-fried chips, and thirst-quenching margaritas, Güeros Brooklyn is a great option for satisfying a crave of Tex-Mex. Important note: breakfast and migas tacos are available on Saturdays and Sundays only until four o’clock.

605 Prospect Place (718) 230-4941 guerosbrooklyn.com Mon.–Fri. 4:00pm–11:00pm Sat. 12:00pm–11:00pm Sun. 12:00pm–10:00pm

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CENT’ANNI Bringing Sicily to Brooklyn, Cent’Anni gives patrons a taste of Italy with various homemade pasta dishes and imported wines to choose from.

Intimate in setting and rustic in aesthetics, the charm of this restaurant lies in its outdoor patio.

742 Franklin Avenue (718) 942-5201 M–Th., Sun. 5:00pm–11:00pm F–Sat. 5:00pm–12:00am

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MAYFIELD 40

688 Franklin Avenue (347) 318-3643 mayfieldbk.com Mon.–Th. 5:00pm–12:00am Fri. 5:00pm–3:00am Sat. 11:00am–3:00am Sun. 11:00am–1:00am

Mayfield opened in October 2012, and is characterized as an American restaurant with an occasional Southern twang. It is named after singer, songwriter, and civil rights advocate Curtis Mayfield, so era-appropriate music is always playing in the background. Featuring a raw bar, sandwich, vegetarian, seafood, meat, and side options, Mayfield’s bar menu also features an affordable variety of drinks that continuously lure young locals, especially during $1 oyster happy hour.

GLADY’S Glady’s is a casual neighborhood restaurant that seeks to redefine the modern sandwich in an airy, turquoise dining room. Opened by Franny’s alums (Franny’s is an environmentally responsible pizza and wine bar in Park Slope/Prospect Heights), the everchanging menu here features inventive food combinations and a custom cocktail menu that rarely disappoint.

788 Franklin Avenue (718) 622-0249 gladysnyc.com Mon.–Th. 5:30pm–11:00pm Fri. 5:30pm–12:00am Sat. 11:30am–3:00pm, 5:30pm–12:00am Sun. 11:30am–3:00pm, 5:30pm–10:30pm

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BARBONCINO 44

781 Franklin Avenue (718) 483-8834 barboncinopizza.com Mon.–Fri. 5:00pm–1:00am Sat.–Sun. 10:30am–1:00am

Long referred to as “the” hotspot of the neighborhood, Barboncino’s traditional fire brick oven lures locals and visitors to the neighborhood with its artisan Neapolitan pizzas and late night happy hour. Attributed as the restaurant to spark Franklin Avenue’s transformation, Barboncino will always get people up and coming to this part of Brooklyn.

LITTLE ZELDA 46

728 Franklin Avenue (646) 320-7347 littlezelda.com Mon.–Th. 7:00am–8:00pm Fri.–Sat. 8:00am–2:00am Sun. 8:00am–8:00pm

Named after the proprietor’s daughter, this tiny coffeehouse offers tasty baked goodies, beer, and wine in addition to the typical cup of Joe. Exuding an earthy feel indoors, Little Zelda also features outdoor, front porch-style seating to enjoy a good book or strike up a conversation.

BREUKELEN COFFEE HOUSE 48

764 Franklin Avenue (718) 789-7070 breukelencoffeehouse.com Mon.–Fri. 7:00am–7:00pm Sat.–Sun. 8:00am–8:00pm

Proof that Hipsters have moved into Franklin Avenue can be found at the Breukelen Coffee House with its Bohemian vibe and vendor supply of meticulously crafted and fair trade products. For anyone looking to work on homework or freelance projects, this is the place to go with its ample seating and variety of showcased music. Arrive early, though, especially on the weekends, if you want to sip and work at the Breukelen Coffee House.

THE PULP & THE BEAN Owned by a neighborhood family who also owns a nearby grocery store, this small business is true to its name providing a diverse selection of coffee drinks and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Regardless if you are a fan of coffee or juice, though, the real draw to this place are the flavorful muffins and variety of bagels with multiple spread options. Located conveniently next to the Franklin Avenue subway station, The Pulp & The Bean is the perfect place to grab something quick before the morning commute.

809 Franklin Avenue (347) 425-8642 pulpandbean.com Mon.–Fri. 6:00am–8:00pm Sat.–Sun. 8:00am–8:00pm

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Crosby coffee This aesthetically pleasing, pure white Italian-style coffee shop is located in the northern half of the neighborhood away from the bustling commercial, restaurant, and bar corridor of Franklin Avenue in the south. However, the trek up to Crosby Coffee is immediately forgotten upon entry with a super friendly staff, special dark-roasted Caffe Vita available upon request, tasty baked goods, and large tables to get some work done (free wifi and outlets included).

667 Classon Avenue (718) 622-0950 crosbycoffee.com Mon.–Sun. 7:30am–6:00pm

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the CROWN INN 54

724 Franklin Avenue (347) 915-1131 thecrowninnbrooklyn.com Mon.–Th. 5:00pm–3:00am Fri.–Sat. 1:00pm–4:00am Sun. 1:00pm–3:00am

The Crown Inn is probably “the” go to bar in Franklin Avenue. It cultivates a neighborhood scene with its simple, repurposed Brooklyn aesthetic of exposed brick, black leather, and light fixtures ripped from salvaged ships. It also features a great patio, kitchen, and fully stocked bar with 40 types of bourbon, wines on tap, and numerous craft beers to cater to its diverse clientele (though mostly Hipsters) looking to have a conversation over a drink.

739 FRANKLIN 739 Franklin is a self-proclaimed new age artbar and event space that caters to private parties, live entertainment, movie screenings, someone looking to grab a quick drink, and much more.

Their food menu consists of hot items off of the grille, while their drink menu offers common, not-so-common, and seasonal beers, organic wines, and signature cocktails.

739 Franklin Avenue (347) 915-0908 739franklin.com Mon.–Th. 4:00pm–2:00am Fri. 5:00pm–4:00am Sat. 11:00am–4:00am Sun. 12:00pm–12:00am

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95 SOUTh 58

778 Franklin Avenue (347) 750-6180 95south.org Wed.–Sat. 4:00pm–1:00am

95 South is a restaurant bar and lounge that features Southern food, classical house jazz or R&B music, and big screen televisions to watch the latest sports game. Weekend nights are known to have a cover charge, but locals who frequent this bar do not let this deter them from having an enjoyable night out in the neighborhood.

FRANKLIN PARK Franklin Park features a huge, shady beer garden, two indoor bars, one of which has an attached game room, and Dutch Boy Burger restaurant.

On the weekends, DJs showcase tunes to a variety of locals and visitors looking to drink and have fun. Additional options to enjoy yourself at Franklin Park include a reading series that happens at 8:00pm on the second Monday of every month, live music every other Tuesday, and Trivia Night every Wednesday at 9:00pm.

618 St. Johns Place (718) 975-0196 franklinparkbrooklyn.com Mon.–Fri. 3:00pm–4:00am Sat.–Sun. 1:00pm–4:00am

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looking forward Just like anything else, the future of Franklin Avenue is unknown. As it continues to gentrify, there has been debate about what the future of the neighborhood could be. Some see the neighborhood becoming the next Park Slope, whereas others hope the area will remain as close as possible to how it exists currently. Regardless of what the neighborhood could be, however, certain aspects of it are undergoing everyday change. The ethnographic diversity is constantly shrinking, the culinary and entertainment scene is still growing rapidly, new residents are moving in, and longterm residents are being forced out.

The popularity of Franklin Avenue is also still growing as a Brooklyn destination for food, nightlife, and probably soon entertainment and shopping. A venue to host Brooklyn’s Smorgasburg is currently being developed on Bergen Street and Franklin Avenue, a huge residential building is being erected yet has already sold out along Eastern Parkway, and multiple buildings are being renovated throughout the area for new delicious restaurants. As if you needed anymore proof, all of this solidifies the fact that Franklin Avenue has become the new permanent subway stop on Brooklyn’s gentrification express.

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bibliography 64

1. http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704657704576150240750373316html?mod=WSJ_NY_ 2. RealEstate_LEADNewsCollection 2. http://www.brooklyncb8.org/maps-stats.php 3. http://projects.nytimes.com/census/2010/map 4. http://www.brownstoner.com/blog/2010/09/walkabout-bulle/ 5. http://bigsuellc.com/index.php?section=history 6. http://www.mta.info/nyct/service/pdf/tscur.pdf 7. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/24/nyregion/24shuttle.html?_r=0

8. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franklin_Avenue_Shuttle 9. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malbone_Street_Wreck 10. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/01/nyregion/in-crown-heights-a-renaissance-with-unease.html?pagewanted=all 11. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crown_Heights_riot 12. http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/gentrification 13. http://ny.curbed.com/archives/2012/01/17/brooklyn_rents_surged_in_11_crown_heights_leads_way.php 14. http://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/brooklyn/brooklyn-rents-soar-closing-gap-manhattan-article-1.1420948 Page 4. “Brooklyn, New York.” Map. Google. 2010. Google Earth. 9 November 2013.

Page 17. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c4/NYCS_R68_Franklin_Shuttle.jpg Page 21. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8432/7523157804_c0021f93db_b.jpg Page 22. http://blsciblogs.baruch.cuny.edu/jrn3510marlow/files/2013/02/image-3.jpeg Page 24. http://mediastore2.magnumphotos.com/CoreXDoc/MAG/Media/TR2/2/9/7/e/PAR25165.jpg Page 35. “Brooklyn, New York.” Map. Google. 2010. Google Earth. 9 November 2013.

Page 60. http://franklinparkbrooklyn.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/garden-from-street-at-night-franklin-park.jpg?w=1200

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Typography II Pratt Institute Fall 2013