Angry birds PA G E T H R E E
f o o d
f o r
t h o u g h t
I S S U E
T W O
2 0 1 2
Urban fare WORDS JENNIFER COCKRALL-KING
nt
y interest in sustainable food systems and urban agriculture — producing and distributing food in cities — led me to Cuba in 2007. I signed up for a “food tour” organized by Wendy Holm, a Bowen Island-based PhD agronomist. This was no gastronomic extravaganza by any stretch of the imagination, but we were there to learn how Cuba dealt with and survived a brutal and sustained energy shock that began in the early 1990s. Without oil to run tractors, agrichemicals to fertilize fields, and fuel to transport food from the country into the cities, Cubans turned to urban organic agriculture to keep its 11 million citizens from mass starvation. Our group of chefs, food writers and sustainability keeners visited a number of Cuba’s ubiquitous organopónicos, smallscale urban organic farms where Cubans buy their fresh vegetables daily from the farmers who collectively own the coop. These astonishingly productive food gardens, often growing in little more than a foot of soil in raised beds over concrete, opened my eyes to just how much food could be produced in a city when people really put their minds to it. We toured garden after garden bursting with gorgeous organic salad crops, vegetables, culinary herbs, and even “green medicines” like the noni fruit, a pinecone-shaped knobbly tropical fruit high in vitamin C and touted in North American health food stores as the next “superfruit.” Cuba’s urban farms were not just in the capital of Havana but in every medium and small town our group visited from one end of the island to another. Farmers at the organopónicos did difficult manual labour under the searing Caribbean sun, but they were rewarded with both a relatively high salary and respect from their customers. Around the same time, I was also
AN ULTRA-PRODUCTIVE BALCONY VEGETABLE GARDEN IN LONDON, ENGLAND.
coming to the realization that counting my own food miles was a luxury that others, even in my own city of Edmonton, Alberta, didn’t have. And our North American fascination with cheap food came bundled with widespread food contamination tragedies and dietrelated illnesses that could no longer be ignored. Was it any wonder that some of us were trying to find alternatives to the chemical-laden, pesticide-dependent fossil fuel-guzzling industrial food system? Veggies grown and sold right down the street, urban chickens and urban
beehives suddenly started to make a lot more sense, not just in Cuba. I decided to take a first-hand look at Paris, London, Vancouver, Toronto, Detroit, Milwaukee, Chicago, and back to Havana again to look at everything from rooftop supermarket farms to the world’s first operating vertical farm. And if I can venture any predictions at this point, I would wager that the future of food lies in the ingenuity and resilience of local food economies. And that we’re just at the beginning of our awakening to the food-producing potential of our cities.
Nourishment
Urban farms
PHOTO JENNIFER COCKRALL-KING
M
JENNIFER COCKRALL-
is the author of the recently released Food and the City: Urban Agriculture and the New Food Revolution (Prometheus Books, 2012). She blogs about her own garden and other urban agriculture news at foodgirl.ca.
KING
Spot the taste
Buy for B.C. ISSUE TWO 2012 NOURISH A27
Taste A
of Park & Tilford A celebration of all things local & healthy
Saturday, June 2 • NOON-5PM RICO N LALO
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Meet the local growers/creators, taste over 40 samples, learn about new products. SPECIAL PRICES GOOD ONE DAY ONLY - JUNE 2, 2012. • Enter to WIN • Enter to WIN a $1,000 prizes at over Travel Voucher 40 tasting Two to be given away! stations
JOIN US FOR
Wine and Cheese Tasting Receive 5,000 Save On More Points with the purchase, $35 min., of delicatessen cheese from our delicatessen. (Offer valid all day June 2, 2012)
• Enter to WIN a BC Ferries Vehicle & Driver – One Way Fare (5 to be awarded)
• Receive 20,000 Save On More Points with a minimum $300 purchase in groceries. (Not valid with tobacco, prescription and gift card purchases. Offer valid all day June 2, 2012)
• WIN 50,000 Save On More Points every hour! (Fill out entry form at the Spin the Wheel for Charity and Points Station)
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THE SANDWICH TURNS 250 THIS YEAR. IN 1762, JOHN MONTAGU, THE FOURTH EARL OF SANDWICH, PUT MEAT BETWEEN SLICES OF BREAD SO HE WOULDN’T HAVE TO LEAVE A CARD GAME. CELEBRATE BY STACKING A SANDWICH OF YOUR OWN!
VANCOUVER-BASED QUEST FOOD EXCHANGE TAKES SURPLUS FOOD FROM VENDORS AND DISTRIBUTES IT TO PEOPLE LIVING ON LOW INCOMES; QUESTOUTREACH.ORG.
LOCAL WATCH
GAMECHANGER RESTAURANTS ARE SOME OF THE BIGGEST WASTE-MAKERS AROUND.
PHOTO MIKE WAKEFIELD
From packaging and prep to leftovers and napkins, it takes just a day or two for most eateries to load an industrial-sized dumpster with garbage. Which makes the waste reduction by Trafalgars Bistro and sister business Sweet Obsession Cakes and Pastries in Kitsilano even more impressive. Last fall, co-owners Stephen Greenham left and Lorne Tyczenski decided to do something about their garbage. Restaurant and bakery teams now separate waste into eight different disposal streams: returnable containers, hard plastics, soft plastics, glass, paper, metal cardboard, and organics. The game changer is the $25,000 GreenGood GG-50 composting machine the partners installed for the restaurants to share. It composts organic waste in 24 hours, emits no odour, and reduces food waste down to 90% of its original volume. The loop is closed each week when 240 kilograms of compost is shared with neighbourhood farms throughout the city, enhancing the health of the soil for growing food. In four months they reduced the waste from the bistro and bakery by 98 per cent — to less than a bag of garbage per week. The money they save on waste removal means the GG-50 will pay for itself in two years. Now that’s setting a green example. — Deana Lancaster
Happy Birds
Angry Birds
for many backyard farmers, residential chicken coops are a great idea just waiting to hatch.
I
n her family home on the edge of a regional park in Vancouver, Ann Pacey has spent the last two years raising hens and scrambling eggs with her neighbour. “We decided we’d go in together and we built the coop at my place, but we share the responsibilities and we also share the eggs,” she says. Pacey is on the board of directors of Village Vancouver, a group that has promoted local agriculture and advocated for backyard chickens to be permitted on the North Shore. The District of West Vancouver and the District of North Vancouver prohibit backyard poultry. The City of North Vancouver is currently considering letting backyard farmers spread their wings after the idea received strong support at a council meeting last April. Backyard chickens are a kinder alternative to the factory-farmed birds in Abbotsford and Chilliwack, according to Pacey. “They’re all kept in these huge sheds and that’s not the way animals are happy,” she says. For the price of $15 Pacey buys a sack of feed that nourishes her four chickens for
two months, and the eggs, she says, have been delicious. “They smell different, they taste different. They’ve got a really bright yellow yolk, and they’re significantly healthier because the chickens are moving around and they’re eating natural foods. And they’re happier, they’re not under stress.” The chickens get regular exercise, which leads to a higher percentage of omega 3 fatty acids in the eggs, according to Pacey. “If you can let them into the grass for awhile and let them peck and scratch and do their chicken things then they’re much healthier, happier birds,” she says. That regimen combined with nutritious feed, which sometimes includes plate scrapings, has resulted in many delectable Spanish omlettes, according to Pacey. Wildlife experts have warned that backyard agriculture can serve as an attractant for bears, but Pacey says the problem can be avoided with a 360-degree enclosure. “We’re right next to Pacific Spirit Park, and there’s coyotes and raccoons and eagles. We don’t have bears, but really, if you build your coop safe enough, you can get around most predators.” Pacey’s hens each have individual personalities and charms, she said.
MORE THAN 90 PER CENT OF EGG-LAYING HENS IN CANADA ARE KEPT IN BATTERY CAGES, WHICH HOUSE BETWEEN FIVE AND SEVEN CHICKENS IN A SPACE MEASURING 61 x 51 CM, ACCORDING TO THE VANCOUVER HUMANE SOCIETY. CERTIFIED ORGANIC EGGS COME FROM HENS WITH MORE ROOM TO MOVE, WITH APPROXIMATELY 75 SQUARE CM PER CHICKEN. FREE-RUN EGGS ARE PRODUCED BY HENS THAT CAN MOVE AROUND THE FLOOR OF THE BARN AND HAVE ACCESS TO NESTING BOXES. FREE-RANGE EGGS ARE LAID IN ENVIRONMENTS SIMILAR TO FREE-RUN EGGS, BUT HENS ALSO HAVE ACCESS TO THE OUTDOORS. FOR THAT REASON, THESE EGGS ARE SEASONALLY AVAILABLE. SOURCE: THE CANADIAN EGG MARKETING AGENCY
issue two “They’re really interested and curious. I can’t say they’re clever, but they’re fun,” she says. For Pacey, maintaining chickens also means taking an active step towards sustainable, local agriculture. “I don’t think we really have an appreciation for how fragile our global food network is,” she says. — Jeremy Shepherd
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DEE DHALIWAL PUBLISHER DOUG FOOT EDITOR DEANA LANCASTER ART DIRECTION & DESIGN ADRIAN CUNNINGHAM DESIGN MARINA ROCKEY PROJECT & SALES COORDINATOR VICKI MAGNISON PRODUCTION COORDINATOR MYRA MCGRATH CONTRIBUTORS BENJAMIN ALLDRITT JENNIFER COCKRALL-KING TERRY PETERS JEREMY SHEPHERD STORY IDEAS & COMMENTS DLANCASTER@NSNEWS.COM TO ADVERTISE IN NOURISH TEL. 604-980 0511 or EMAIL DISPLAY@NSNEWS.COM
UNCREDITED IMAGES AND GRAPHICS COURTESY OF CAN STOCK PHOTO.
ISSUE TWO 2012 NOURISH A29
CURRENT FOOD-LABELLING LAWS DON’T REQUIRE GENETICALLY MODIFIED ORGANISMS (GMOS) TO BE IDENTIFIED AS SUCH. WANT TO AVOID THEM? SHOP ORGANIC!
COMMENT CARD
TOMARKET LONSDALE QUAY FARMERS’ MARKET runs Saturdays from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. at the East Plaza, 123 Carrie Cates Court, North Vancouver. Find traditional and organic produce, prepared food vendors, crafters and more. Info: artisanmarkets.ca or 604-318-0487. AMBLESIDE FARMERS’ MARKET runs Sundays from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. until Oct. 28 in the parking lot behind the police station on Bellevue Avenue and 13th Street in West Vancouver. There will be traditional and organic produce, prepared food vendors, crafters and more. Info: artisanmarkets.ca or 604-318-0487. CIVIC PLAZA GREEN MARKET A showcase of local Canadian made products, unique foods, art, jewelry and entertainment Wednesdays, May 23-Oct. 24, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. at the Civic Plaza, 141 West 14th St., North Vancouver. Info: canamade.com.
A fresh take on food from the farm WORDS DEANA LANCASTER
Tuscan Chicken Pasta
Serving delight since 1928. From award-winning burgers and signature fries, to our fresh salads, BC Chicken, pastas, stir-fries, and of course, our famous Pirate Paks, there’s always something delightful on the menu at White Spot. Come join us, morning, noon or night.
whitespot.ca
$5 OFF LUNCH or DINNER With the purchase of $30 or more Sunday - Thursday
LONSDALE 2205 Lonsdale Ave 604.987.0024
PARK & TILFORD 1100-333 Brooksbank Ave 604.988.4199
PARK ROYAL 752 Marine Dr 604.922.8221
Valid from now until July 1, 2012. Valid for dine-in only Sunday-Thursday. Minimum purchase of $30. Maximum discount $5. Not to be combined with any other promotional offer. No cash value. Limit one coupon per visit. Valid only at Lonsdale, Park & Tilford and Park Royal locations only.
ou can’t argue with the convenience. You can screech into the grocery store at five past your workday, load up on plastic-wrapped meat, California salad greens and veggies from Mexico, then race home, throw it all together and have the dishes done before Tom Bergeron kicks off Dancing with the Stars. Is a tasteless meal of truck-ripened produce and overgrown chicken really the way we want to eat though? No. And that’s not an opinion only passed around by snooty foodies and fearful conspiracy theorists. We all want food that tastes good and is good for us. With the arrival of spring, the all-toobrief farmers’ market season has arrived once again. It’s at these weekly congregations of farmers, bakers, makers and browsers that good food finds its calling. It’s where we run out of excuses for putting sub-standard food on the table. Farmers’ markets create healthy networks that support our food producers, provide increasing opportunities for fresh, seasonal and local foods to find an audience, and best of all, they bring us together.
Y
LYNN VALLEY GREEN MARKET A showcase of local Canadian made products, unique foods, art, jewelry and entertainment Thursdays, May 24-Oct. 25, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. at Lynn Valley Square, 1277 Lynn Valley Rd., North Vancouver. Info: canamade.com. MAPLEWOOD GREEN MARKET A showcase of local Canadian made products, unique foods, art, jewelry and entertainment Saturdays starting May 26, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. at Maplewood Farm, 405 Seymour River Pl., North Vancouver. Info: canamade.com. SHIPBUILDERS GREEN MARKET A showcase of local Canadian made products, unique foods, art, jewelry and entertainment Fridays, June 15-Oct. 26, 5 p.m.-10 p.m. at Shipbuilders Plaza, 138 Victory Ship Way, North Vancouver. Info: canamade.com. TROUT LAKE FARMERS’ MARKET runs Saturdays, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. in the north parking lot of John Hendry Park at Trout Lake, Vancouver. The market features a great selection of organic and conventionally grown produce and nursery items as well as meat, cheese, seafood and prepared foods of all sorts. WEST END FARMERS’ MARKET will run every Saturday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. from June 2-Oct. 20 in the 1100 Block of Comox Street across from Nelson Park, Vancouver. There will be local produce, prepared foods and crafts as well as hot food and coffee on-site. MAIN STREET STATION FARMERS’ MARKET will run every Wednesday, 3 p.m.-7 p.m. from June 6-Oct. 3 at Thornton Park in the 1100 Block of Station Street across from the VIA Rail Station, Vancouver. There will be everything from produce to meat and cheese, baking and more. Hot food will also be available on-site.
eating right
A NEW STUDY BY KPMG FINDS CANADIAN FOOD, BEVERAGE AND CONSUMER PRODUCTS MANUFACTURERS ARE PULLING AHEAD OF THEIR GLOBAL PEERS WHEN IT COMES TO INVESTMENT IN ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES. FIND OUT MORE AT FCPC.CA.
RETAIL WATCH
Vocal for local W
and strawberries during the summer, but when fall hits, Bergen offers a frozen line. Mockler, a confessed “tomato freak,” says it’s difficult to compete with local flavours. “You can’t beat the taste of something that’s grown in the soil in the Okanagan in the heat because tomatoes love high heat levels,” he says.
We’ll show you how. But while the flavour is strong, the prices tend to be high, something Mockler says is difficult to avoid. “In the middle of winter, California by itself can supply everyone in North America with their lettuce,” he says. “B.C. has only got a three to five month window to harvest out of the fields, but they’ve got to pay for themselves for 12 months.” For Mockler, creating vibrant local gardens is more important than saving a few dollars. “Consumers have got to make a value decision about what they spend, and buying B.C. in the long run actually benefits them because it makes our economy stronger. And really, they’ve got to think harder than just the price at the till,” he says.—Jeremy Shepherd
Patio Veggies: Growing Great Food in Containers Wednesday, May 23 Buzz: The Fascinating World of Honey Bees! Saturday, June 9 Winter Gardening: Growing Food Through a West Coast Winter Wednesday, July 11 Backyard Composting: From Slime to Success Saturday, August 11 Preserving the Harvest: Basic Canning Skills Monday, September 17 Workshops are $5.00 each. To register and pay call 604.990.3755. Get all the details on our website: gardensmart.ca
Contest closes 4:00 p.m. on Friday, June 1, 2012. Winner notified by phone/email.
PHOTO SUPPLIED
ith mushrooms from Langley, apples from the Okanagan, and salmon from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Thrifty’s is becoming a one-stop-shop for B.C. food. “Why would you buy anything across the border when you could buy it in B.C?” asks Michael Mockler below, director of produce operations for Thrifty Foods. The push for organic, local food has created a huge market, according to Mockler. “We can’t believe how many people are looking to buy organic eggs,” he says. “The demand is in excess of the actual supply.” For Mockler, buying B.C. foods is an investment in our own health as well as the long-term health of the province. “We’re not a big proponent of the 100mile diet because if you actually drew a line around Vancouver for a 100-mile diet, you would actually include a hell of a lot of growing areas in north Washington state,” he says. “When the money’s spent in the local economy, it benefits everybody.” One of the challenges of promoting local food production is showing growers their options for creating a steady revenue stream, according to Mockler. “No matter what you do in the province of British Columbia you really can’t grow 12 months a year in hothouses, because no matter how much heat you put into it, we just don’t get enough sunlight come November and December.” Bergen Farms may have found an answer to that problem. The Abbotsford grower helps supply Thrifty’s with fresh blueberries, raspberries,
RESEARCHERS HAVE IDENTIFIED MORE THAN A DOZEN DIFFERENT FLAVONOID COMPOUNDS IN SPINACH THAT FUNCTION AS ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AND ANTI-CANCER AGENTS.
Locavore A PERSON WHO BUYS THEIR FOOD FROM FARMERS’ MARKETS AND LOCAL PRODUCERS — WAS NAMED THE 2007 WORD OF THE YEAR BY THE NEW OXFORD AMERICAN DICTIONARY.
IN THE FIELD
AN EARLY HARVEST FROM AN URBAN FARM Loutet Farm is a remarkable collaboration between local government and non-profits, powered by volunteers and corporate donations. You can buy some North Vancouvergrown vegetables June 26, noon to 5 p.m. as part of the Art in the Garden tour, or starting in June, Saturdays 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and Wednesdays 3 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
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5
It takes a little planning to turn soil and water into food. The carefully planted rows are already bursting with life, with the promise of far more to come later. This year should produce a bumper crop at Loutet Farm.
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Gavin Wright is the farmer who handles the planning and leads crews of volunteers. “It’s at least a full-time job,” he says. Every one of these delicious morsels can be grown easily on the North Shore. Imagine putting a gorgeous salad like this on the table knowing every part of it was pulled from the ground only hours ago in your community — or your backyard!—Benjamin Alldritt
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PHOTOS MIKE WAKEFIELD
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Getting the nitty gritty on dirt All North Shore residents can now drop their green cans at the curb, and include food scraps in it along with their yard trimmings for recycling.
T
he organic material then begins a four-month circular journey through Metro Vancouver, eventually coming back to the North Shore. Following pickup, the collection of yard trimmings, fruits, vegetables, meat, dairy, and miscellaneous plate scrapings are dropped off at the green waste area of the North Shore Transfer Station on Riverside Drive. Residents who miss pickup can also drop off food waste and yard trimmings, as well as clean wood waste, at the transfer station. The organic materials are loaded into trucks and delivered to Harvest/Fraser Richmond Soil & Fibre’s composting site
A32 NOURISH ISSUE TWO 2012
in Richmond. Workers at the site mix and stack the organic materials in large compost cells, where the material is stored for approximately two months. The compost cells utilize negative airflow, which provides an ideal condition for composting while controlling odour with the use of a bio-filter. The composted materials are screened and then cured for an additional two months. Once the process is complete, the compost is sold at the North Shore Transfer Station as Soil Amender, Garden Blend, and Turf Blend. The compost, as well as a line of mulches, can also be ordered for delivery.
North Shore residents are reminded that plastic, even when marked compostable or biodegradable, is not accepted at Fraser Richmond Soil & Fibre. The green can program is designed to reduce the amount of garbage heading to landfills while cutting greenhouse gas emissions. To learn more about Harvest/ Fraser Richmond Soil & Fibre, visit www.harvestpower.com/bc
ALL FRUITS AND VEGGIES GIVE OFF ETHYLENE, A COLOURLESS, ODOURLESS, GASEOUS HORMONE THAT, AMONG OTHER THINGS, STIMULATES RIPENING.
LOCAL • FRESH • WILD
Ending food waste David Suzuki’s Queen of Green, Lindsay Coulter, offers up these five ways to end food waste. IN THE AVERAGE CANADIAN HOUSEHOLD, one in four produce items gets thrown in the garbage. That’s like throwing away $600 a year! By sharpening your food storage skills, you’ll save both food and money.
Don’t wash produce until you’re ready to eat it Moisture encourages decomposition and mould growth.
Eat the most perishable items first
Take produce out of plastic bags Airtight wrappings suffocate fresh produce and speed up the decay process.
Don’t rip off fruit stems Once living cells are broken, microorganisms start to grow. Keep produce whole as long as possible.
To contact us call 604.985.4527 or visit cheeseman.ca
Got Visitors Coming? Vancouver’s North Shore Visitors Guide is the official guide full of nourishing information about the North Shore. From grizzly bears to paddle boarding. The North Shore has it all! Pick up your copy at: North Vancouver Chamber Office, 102–124 West 1st Street or Visitor Center inside Lonsdale Quay Market
Raspberries last a few days; potatoes can hang around Speed up the ripening for about a month.
process by...
GET MORE TIPS AT
queenofgreen.ca
putting the item (a peach, for example) in a paper bag with a banana.
THE COURSE TO GROWING YOUR OWN THERE ARE WORKSHOPS AND CLASSES SPROUTING ALL OVER METRO VANCOUVER THAT WILL TEACH YOU HOW TO PLAN, BUY FOR AND PLANT YOUR OWN URBAN GARDEN. HERE ARE JUST A FEW TO GET YOU STARTED.
MAKE AND GROW EVENT AT COLLAGE COLLAGE Victory Gardens and Collage Collage have partnered for a day of planting and decorating on Sunday, May 20, 2-4 p.m. at 621 Kingsway. The event will feature the launch of the Victory Gardens and Collage Collage Garden Kit and will offer the chance to plant, decorate and get your hands dirty. Find out more at victorygardensvancouver.ca. GARDENSMART WORKSHOP – PATIO VEGGIES Learn how to grow great food in containers Wednesday, May 23, 7-8:30 p.m. at John Braithwaite Community Centre, 145 West First St., North Vancouver. Admission: $5. Registration: 604-990-3755. Info: gardensmart.ca. GARDENING BASICS WORKSHOP AT CHALK Victory Gardens is hosting its first demonstrative work-shop of the season where you will learn the basics of home growing including soil, transplanting, seed sowing and composting on Saturday, May 26, 10-11:30 a.m. at 565 East Georgia, Vancouver. If you are new to growing or need a refresher, this is a great workshop for you; with the weather just warming up now is the perfect time to learn the ropes. The workshop will start inside, then move outside for some
hand-dirtying. Each participant will leave with a package of certified organic seeds, educational material and knowledge to get growing. Get more information at victorygardensvancouver.ca. ROVING PLANT AND SEED SALE AT CHALK Victory Gardens is holding its second Roving Plant and Seed Sale of the year at Chalk in Strathcona on Saturday May 26, noon-2 p.m., 565 East Georgia, Vancouver. Victory Gardens will have a wide variety of their homegrown veggie starts including: tons of greens (mustards, spinach, kale, arugula, etc), broccoli, cauliflower, beans, heirloom zucchini, various winter squash, cucumber, various peppers and tomatoes and a number of herbs. The seed component will satisfy all growing needs, and includes a large variety from both West Coast and Stellar Seeds. Get more information at victorygardensvancouver.ca. RAINFOREST PROGRAMS FOR ADULTS – KNOW YOUR BERRIES Get ready for summer berries and other forest edibles Saturday, June 2, 1-2:30 p.m. at Lynn Canyon Ecology Centre, 3663 Park Rd., North Vancouver. Fee: $5. Registration: 604-990-3755. Info: dnv.org/ecology/
Largest Waterfront Deck Open 7 Days a Week BREAKFAST | BRUNCH | LUNCH | DINNER | Brunch our Specialty | Great Steak & Prime Rib | Fish & Chips | Pastas | Fajitas | Kids Menu ... And Much More!
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At Lynnwood Marina under 2nd Narrows Bridge 604.988.0038 | www.marinasidegrill.com Free Parking ISSUE TWO 2012 NOURISH A33
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LYNN VALLEY CENTRE’S
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SEATING L I M I T E D TO 1 2 0 S E N I O R S Pick up your FREE ticket today at the ROGERS kiosk in the mall.
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NOURISHMENT
LOCAL • FRESH • WILD
‘pink lemonade’ blueberry
pink flowering strawberry
Dykhof Nurseries & Florist serving the north shore since 1957
COVERT FARMS FAMILY ESTATE
FISHWORKS
Tucked up against the foot of McIntyre Bluff in Oliver, 600-acre Covert Farms is the perfect spot to grow organic produce, including grapes. It’s been doing that — and making the awardwinning organic wines that come from them — since 2005 under the label Dunham & Froese. This year the winery changes names to match the land it comes from, becoming Covert Farms Family Estate. Otherwise it remains the same: a terrific country market, u-pick berry destination and maker of crisp, naturally acidic organic wines, all from estate-grown grapes. Worth a visit if you’re in the Oliver area this summer. –DL
It’s seafood season. From halibut to spot prawns late spring and summer are when fish boats are out in force and shops are bursting with a cornucopia of succulent ocean critters. While it might seem like we have more than we can eat, remember: the world demand for seafood is growing. Your consumer choices can pressure fisheries and seafood farms around the world to change their unsustainable practices. Get your seafood fix at restaurants like Lower Lonsdale’s Fishworks, where the menu is Ocean Wise, stacked with sustainable picks like Albacore tuna tataki and Wild Salmon Wellington.–DL
covertfarms.ca
Fishworks, 91 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver. 778-340-3449 fishworks.ca
604.985.1914 www.dykhofnurseries.com 460 Mountain Hwy., North Vancouver BC
NORTH VANCOUVER’S FRESHEST SEAFOOD
We specialize in FRESH & LOCAL SEAFOOD If we don’t catch it ourselves, we source out local suppliers and negotiate with the fishermen to get the best prices. We label clearly if it has been caught wild. We are in the seafood business so HOW TO GROW FOOD by Richard Gianfrancesco
Available on Netflix now.
There is no food more local than the food you grow yourself. But where to start? In the book How to Grow Food, Richard Gianfrancesco provides a thorough guide on turning even the smallest patio space into a vibrant garden. He offers design suggestions, lists plants that go together, and includes advice on bed and crop rotation. You can’t put a trowel wrong with detailed descriptions of plants — all divided into sections like Vegetable and salad crops, Seed and fruit crops, Herbs, Tree fruit and more. And when the growing’s all done, the book even sets you up for storing and preserving. –Terry Peters List price – $29.95
off the Second Narrows Bridge on the way to Deep Cove
604.929.1616 • www.thecrabshop.ca
FOOD STARTS WITH STRONG SOIL GOOD
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
SO STED ILS & M PO
S CHE UL
Called one of the scariest movies of 2009 by the New York Times, Food, Inc. is a chilling look at the big business of food production. It is not for the faint-of-heart. With unyielding (and often uncomfortable) focus, the doc examines the industrial production of meat — think over-engineered chickens and cattle not adequately resistant to E. coli. It takes on the patented soybeans of multinational agricultural biotechnology corporation Monsanto. Finally, it attempts to awaken apathetic consumers unaware of the health and environmental ramifications of our flawed food system. If you haven’t yet seen it, do.–DL
and Salmon
2455 Dollarton Highway, North Vancouver
USE C OM
FOOD, INC.
AS VOTED VER’S U VANCO AFOOD E BEST S CHIPS! & & FISH
we make sure we only buy our products Marcel from sustainable and responsible sources. Come in to get what’s in THIS MONTH’S CATCH: season and enjoy a fresh Wild Spot Prawns, seafood meal today! BC Oysters, Halibut
Nourish Your World With Our Services And Products. Come In Or Call Today For Delivery of Soils & Mulches! Easy, Con venient Pre-Bag ged Soil & Mulch ff -O p Dro Waste p -U k ic Green il P ulk So and B
604-465-3506
www.harvestpower.com/bc
HARVEST / Fraser Richmond Soil & Fibre At The North Shore Transfer Station
20 Riverside Dr. North Shore BC
OPEN Mon-Fri 8am-7pm Sat-Sun 8am-6pm
THE GREAT CANADIAN SHORELINE CLEANUP IS KICKING INTO ACTION AS UP TO 1.5 MILLION TONNES OF DEBRIS FROM THE MARCH 2011 JAPANESE TSUNAMI BEGINS TO ARRIVE ON THE WEST COAST. VOLUNTEER AT SHORELINECLEANUP.CA.
ONCE OUT OF THE OCEAN, SPOT PRAWNS HAVE AN ENZYME THAT BEGINS TO PERMEATE THROUGH THE TAIL AND TURNS THE MEAT MUSHY. REMOVING THE HEAD AND RINSING THE TAIL KEEPS THE FLESH FIRM..
OCEAN WATCH
GLOBAL WATCH
The right to food
T
I
t’s hard to believe that a mere six years ago we had little knowledge of our own spring spot prawn season. The vibrant orange beauties are the largest of the seven commercial species of shrimp found in Canada’s west coast waters. They’re identifiable by the white spots on their tail and white horizontal bars on the carapace; and by their sweet, succulent flavour. In B.C. approximately 2,450 metric tonnes are sustainably harvested each year, with about 65 per cent coming from the waters between Vancouver Island and the mainland. Somehow though, they were passing us by; the bounty caught in May and
June was being been frozen at sea, packed in rows for export, and sent to Japan. All while we were subjected to tasteless black tiger prawns imported from environmentally devastating prawn farms in Asia. In 2006, a group of local chefs who advocate for their trade as members of the Chefs’ Table Society joined forces with Vancouver-based prawn fisherman Steve Johansen to introduce the local market to this tasty and ocean-friendly crustacean. Their success is undeniable. On May 5, more than 1,200 seafood lovers hit Fisherman’s Wharf to celebrate the opening of the six- to eight-week spot
WORDS DEANA LANCASTER
prawn season, and restaurants around the province — even across the country — are featuring the juicy gems on their menus while they last. Pick them up each afternoon from the wharf on False Creek (the boats come in at 1 p.m.), or from your favourite fishmonger. The Salmon Shop at Lonsdale Quay is getting them in daily. Buy them still kicking, ENJOY and cook them your SPOT PRAWNS favourite way at WITH A CRISP home, whether GLASS OF B.C. that’s boiled, ROSÉ. steamed, grilled or poached.
PHOTO PAUL MCGRATH
Spot the flavour
WE WRESTED THIS RECIPE FOR A SPOT PRAWN BOIL FROM CHEF ROBERT BELCHAM OF CAMPAGNOLO, CAMPAGNOLO ROMA AND FAT DRAGON BAR-B-Q — THREE SPOT PRAWN SEASONS AGO. IT REMAINS OUR FAVOURITE.
Court Bouillon
for the boil
1 onion, sliced 1 head of garlic, cut in half 1 carrot, peeled and sliced 1 branch of celery, sliced 4 jalapenos, sliced 1 head of fennel, sliced ¼ bunch parsley ¼ bunch thyme 4 bay leaves 1 cup kosher salt ¼ cup brown sugar 3 lemons zested and juiced 8 litres water
5 lbs live spot prawns, the fresher the better 10 new potatoes cut in half 250 grams dry cured chorizo, sliced into rounds 1 cup fresh peas 2 bunches of scallion, cleaned 2 bunches of radishes, sliced thin
Bring all ingredients, except lemon zest and juice, to a boil in a heavy non-reactive pot. Turn off and let steep for one hour. At the 50 minutemark, stir in the lemon zest and juice. At the one-hour mark, strain through cheesecloth. Discard solids and keep the liquid.
Cook for about four minutes and add in the radishes. Stir around and strain. Pour out onto a newspaper-lined tabletop and ask your guests to dig in. Enjoy!
PHOTO SUPPLIED
Bring the court bouillon to a simmer in a large pot outfitted with a strainer. A pasta pot works well. Add in the new potatoes and simmer for 20 minutes. Then add in the chorizo, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add in the live spot prawns, peas and scallions.
he combination of widespread hunger and rampant overeating has left us in the midst of a global health disaster, according to a United Nations representative on the right to food. Nearly one-third of all people on Earth are unhealthy either from want of food, want of healthy food, or obesity, according U.N. special rapporteur Olivier De Schutter, who is currently documenting Canada’s food system. One of the problems plaguing the approximately two million Canadians without enough to eat stems from what Anna Paskal of Food Secure Canada called “food deserts.” “Many low-income people live in areas which are not well served by large grocery stores or markets,” Paskal said, discussing the high-fat, high-salt diets associated with corner store grocery shopping. “What we would like to see. . . is the development of a national food policy,” Paskal said. “We’d finally break down the silos between health, and agriculture, environment, fisheries, international trade, indigenous affairs, and take a look, holistically, at what kind of a food system we want for Canada.” The number of shoppers learning about the journey their food takes before it gets to their plate is encouraging, according to Paskal. “In a lot of places people are starting to talk about their farmer like they talk about their doctor,” she said. The right to food means having ample healthy food within reasonable geographic proximity and within economic reach, according to De Schutter. Following a stop in Quebec, De Schutter found that one-third of Montreal residents live below the poverty line, and an average of 5.6 farms are being lost in the province each week. The special rapporteur recommended taxing unhealthy foods and supporting local food production as two methods of countering what he called the “supermarketization” of traditional eating habits. “The current government has not made any clear statements on the right to food,” Paskal said. “I think we’ll have a much better sense of their intentions once the report is released.” — Jeremy Shepherd
A36 NOURISH ISSUE TWO 2012
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