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Weekend Getaways
Penticton & Osoyoos PHOTOS AND STORY BY MARK HOOD
The heart and soul of the Okanagan Valley — a recent visit found two ‘sleepy summer towns’ that are wide awake and ready for year round exploring. From Vernon in the north to Osoyoos and the American border, what was once a place of farms and orchards, beaches and summer cabins, has been transformed by individual entrepreneurial spirit and hard work into a year round crucible of the possible: a giant laboratory where breaking new ground and reinventing processes, attitudes and experiences is all in a day’s work.
Named in September 2011 by inspectors of the American Automobile Association as one of the top ten in places in North America to enjoy fall colours, the pet-friendly Penticton Lakeside has been a mainstay of travelers and vacationers looking for an affordable resort quality experience for decades.
A case in point is the domestic wine industry. The last three decades have seen the elevation of British Columbia wines —once the subjects of derision — to the top of their respective classes, standing shoulder to shoulder with the best in North America, Australia and Europe. In the 160 kilometres from Vernon to Osoyoos there are over 120 wineries, most family owned and operated, producing wines as distinctive as the people
who run them. The majority of wineries and vineyards are south of Kelowna in the arid grassy benchlands surrounding Okanagan Lake, Skaha Lake, Vaseaux Lake and Osoyoos Lake. Penticton is the beating heart of the Central Okanagan. From there you can explore wine country, discover local artisans and get a taste of the great outdoors — all in a single weekend.
tourism and we took advantage of their ‘Fall Exclusive All Inclusive’ — dinner and breakfast for two, overnight accommodation and a bottle of Mission Hill wine to greet you as you arrive, starting at $210.00. There’s free Wi-Fi and a copy of the Vancouver Sun in the morning. The hotel is also petfriendly, so if you let them know in advance, you can bring your fourlegged family members with you.
Dinner was in the recently added Bufflehead Pasta and Tapas Lounge and included Caesar Salad, choice of Chicken Our base for the first night was Parmagian, broiled the highly esteemed salmon or flat Penticton Lakeside iron steak with Resort and Casino. profiteroles Named in Penticton and gelato September 2011 for dessert. is the beating heart by inspectors of We both the American of the Central opted for the Automobile Okanagan. chicken and Association as added a bottle one of the top ten of Burrowing in places in North Owl Pinot Gris. The America to enjoy fall food, wine and casual colours, the Penticton Lakeside elegance of the surroundings was Resort has been a mainstay of the perfect way to unwind after travelers and vacationers looking the drive up. for an affordable resort quality experience for decades. The next morning our view from the room of Okanagan Lake and They offer seasonal getaway the nearby Naramata Bench was packages for skiing, golf and wine We made the trip recently, doing all of that and more.
bathed in glorious sunshine. After a wet fall in Vancouver it was exactly what we came for. Breakfast was in the Hooded Merganser Bar and Grill, perched above the lakeshore. Opened in 2005, the Hooded Merganser has become an increasingly popular destination with locals as well as visitors for its outstanding view, interesting menu and impressive local wine selections. The full Canadian Breakfast included coffee or juice, two eggs, bacon or sausage, hash browns and toast and left us well insulated for the winery visits to come. The true story of the Okanagan is about people: some born and raised there, others coming from far away, bringing old traditions and interpreting them in new ways — sometimes overcoming personal tragedy in the process. I had discovered online while doing a little research of the Penticton area: Maple Leaf Spirits, the first fully licensed distillery in the South Okanagan. CONTINUED
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A36 - North Shore News -Sunday, November 6, 2011
Sunday, November 6, 2011 - North Shore News - A37
Bench Blue was soft and creamy with the tang of the blue creeping up slowly as the layers of flavour revealed themselves.
Opened by Jorg and Anette Engel in 2006, Maple Leaf Spirits specializes in turning local fruit into award-winning eaux de vie, liquers, fruit brandies and grappas. A cabinet maker by full time occupation, Jorg saw an opportunity to extend a family tradition of small-batch distilling from his native Germany into the Okanagan’s wine tourism environment. With permits and a 150-litre still ‘Spirit of in place, Jorg and Anette have the Year’ at turned their passion into a multiple the International international award-winning small business. Unable to label their grape Distillata competition in Austria where he was up product as ‘grappa’ because against the best in of European appellation the business from regulations, Maple around the Leaf’s varietal grape “... and it’s made world. eau de vie is called from the skins Skinny. Because he of the grapes works full “We wanted to so we decided time as a call it something to call it ‘Skinny’’. ” cabinet maker different,” said you have to Jorg, “and it’s made call and make an from the skins of the appointment, but if grapes so we decided to you’re going to be in Penticton call it ‘Skinny’. It’s nice because it’s and you like brandy, grappa and our own name and feels like we’ve eaux de vie, it is a must visit and turned something traditional into a real find. Maple Leaf Spirits something new.” products are superb quality and a What they have also done is great addition to any cabinet. put the international distilling At the entrance to the Naramata community on notice. In 2008, Bench, a stop at The Bench his Skinny Pinot Noir was named
Further along, just past Red Rooster Winery is Poplar Grove’s original farmhouse vineyard and cheese shop. Here they offer wines from their cheap and cheerful Monster brand as well as artisan cheeses.
Opened on July 1st, 2011, Poplar Grove’s new winery and tasting centre combines minimalist design and judicious colour selection with glass and natural light to create a stunning effect.
Market on Vancouver Street reveals a business run by people determined to make a diffference. A collaborative venture between sisters Dawn Lennie and Debbie Halladay, The Bench is part market, part deli, part cafe, part art gallery and all local. You can stop for a meal or pick up some supplies to take with you as you explore. “Our focus is to provide local products wherever possible,” said Dawn. “We want to reflect and support where we live.” There are about 20 wineries in the Naramata area and one of the first stops on ‘The Bench’ is
the new Poplar Grove Winery. Poplar Grove began as a very small winery in 1993 and has grown to earn a reputation for outstanding 100% estate grown artisan wines. Their new 9,500 square foot winery and tasting centre opened on July 1st, 2011, combines minimalist design and judicious colour selection with lots of glass and natural light to stunning effect.
But the big score was their Tiger Blue — so in demand that they haven’t enough on hand to offer it for sampling. I had come prepared to buy so we treated ourselves to an on the spot taste test. This was a big cheese — strong blue veins, creamy but not flaccid, yielding without rolling over, a cheese that bit you back and joined you for a drink afterwards with no hard feelings. Nearby, the Red Rooster Winery has been synonymous with Okanagan wines since the late 1990’s. With a winery, a restaurant and an art gallery, something is always going on and they are real innovators when it comes to embracing their followers.
Available in the Lower Mainland at selected retailers, their Harvest Moon washed rind, Okanagan Double Camembert, Naramata Their new Bench Blue and Tiger ‘Adopt-a-Row’ Blue are program allows among the people to adopt most sought a row of vines... after artisan cheeses in BC.
With plans in the works to add a restaurant in 2012, Poplar Grove is poised to join the ranks of Mission Hill, Burrowing Owl, Quail’s Gate and Hester Creek as an outstanding destination for wine and cuisine.
The Camembert was rich — subtle and very easy on the palate, and the
Their new ‘Adopt-aRow’ program allows people to adopt a row of vines, prune the plants in the spring and harvest the grapes in the fall with tours of the cellar. We were there on harvest day and it was an incredibly festive atmosphere.
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“Fall Exclusive” All Inclusive! A fabulous all inclusive stay in a deluxe lakeview guestroom at the Penticton Lakeside Resort! Your visit begins with a bottle of your choice of Mission Hill Pinot Blanc or Mission Hill Cabernet Merlot delivered to your room upon arrival, followed by dinner at the Bufflehead Pasta & Tapas Room. Your dinner includes a caesar salad to start, your choice of chicken parmigiana, broiled salmon or a 10 oz flat iron steak and profiteroles or gelato for dessert. For breakfast you will enjoy a full Canadian Breakfast in the Hooded Merganser on top of Okanagan Lake. All meals include coffee, tea or juice. This package is available until December 30th, 2011.
This fabulous package for two starts at only $210.00 + taxes. *Some restrictions apply.
PENTICTON LAKESIDE RESORT Convention Centre & Casino 21 lakeshore dr w penticton bc
1.800.663.9400 www.pentictonlakesideresort.com
A38 - North Shore News - Sunday, November 6, 2011
North America’s first Aboriginal owned and operated winery, in 2011 Nk’Mip’s wines took home over 100 medals from regional, national and international competitions including a ‘best of category’ double gold for their 2008 Merlot at the All Canadian Wine Championship in Ontario.
The Hillside Estate Winery began in In their busy tasting room, staff 1984 when Bohumir and Vera are eager to share their passion for Klokocka switched from growing the wines they produce but are apricots to grapes. Hillside makes happy to let the wines do most its home in a rambling collection of the talking. Their 2009 of wood frame buildings unoaked Pinot Gris that include the old was particularly farmhouse and a tasty and was If Penticton 15,000 square foot added to our modern winery growing stock is the heart with its iconic of purchases. of the Okanagan, tower. There’s Osoyoos About an a rustic tasting hour south is the soul. room and bistro of Penticton, and it’s an ideal spot Osoyoos is to stop for lunch.
emerging as a go-to ground zero for lovers of wine, culture and outdoor recreation. If Penticton is the heart of the Okanagan, Osoyoos is the soul. At the top end of the Great Sonora Rift that runs north from Mexico, Osoyoos is home to Canada’s only desert and the people there have made the desert bloom. If you know it for its mom-and-pop motels, restaurants and roadside attractions, all those are still waiting for you but an entirely new level of sophisticated visitor experience has been added.
Infrastructure improvement plans include a new civic marina with free parking for boat trailers, airport expansion and, under the guidance of Chief Clarence Louis, the Osoyoos First Nation has opened Western Canada’s first ‘green’ industrial park. Recreation upgrades include new luxury lakeside resorts such as Walnut Beach, the Watermark and Spirit Ridge. Nearby Mount Baldy has added new lift capacity and is home to some of Canada’s finest powder skiing. Nk’Mip Cellars, Burrowing Owl, Hester Creek, Tinhorn Creek and other wineries have added full service fine dining restaurants and some, like Nk’Mip and Burrowing Owl offer accommodation. “When we say that Osoyoos is home to Canada’s warmest welcome, that’s not just a slogan, it’s a promise,” explained Jo Knight of Destination Osoyoos. “We only have 5,000 year round residents but people live here by choice and are anxious to share the experience with others. There’s a real service culture here. The Osoyoos First Nation is a big part of our success. They’re very entrepreneurial
and have become a model for other native bands across the country. They understand that they have the power to improve the lives of their members and take it seriously. It’s great to see it really paying off for them.” New local resorts also offer year round visitor packages. We stayed at the Walnut Beach Resort, a brand new 112-suite luxury destination with a secluded private beach and amenities that include a conference centre, complimentary wireless internet, steam room, sauna, guest laundry and more. For summer visiting, there’s a big outdoor pool, barbecue area and marina. Rooms are spacious and new with kitchen facilities, fireplaces and decks that let you soak in the sun and the
A good way to get some perspective on the Osoyoos area is on horseback. The wild open desert country is all sand and sagebrush with views of the lake at almost every turn.
view. Their Fall Getaway package gives you a lake view suite and a $50 gift certificate for their Promenade Wine and Tapas bar for $159. It’s real value for a hotel of this quality. A good way to get some perspective on the Osoyoos area is on horseback. Richard and Arlene own and operate Satary Stables, about ten minutes south of the town centre. Having spent their working lives in the Kootenays, Richard and Arlene came to Osoyoos on holiday and decided to stay. Today Satary Stables is a small ranch with a petting zoo, day camps for children in the summer and year round trail rides, weather permitting. Our guide, Haley Walker, moved to Osoyoos
Sunday, November 6, 2011 - North Shore News - A39
With a year-round population of 5,000, Osoyoos is emerging as a go-to ground zero for lovers of wine, culture and outdoor recreation.
from Pemberton and led us up into the desert above town. The wild open country is all sand and sagebrush with views of the lake at almost every turn. It’s quietly breathtaking and a soothing way to spend an hour or two. The biggest business in the area is, ironically, small business — wine. The Osoyoos-Oliver area has the perfect climate for red wine grapes and even most wineries
further up the valley buy their red grapes from here. Oliver’s ‘Golden Mile’ is home to Iniskillen, Burrowing Owl, Hester Creek, Tinhorn Creek and a host of other names large and small — too many to visit on one liver in a single day, but each has a philosophy, a tasting centre and a story. Silver Sage began as a search for a better life for Victor and Anna Manola. In their native Romania,
both came from families with long histories of wine making and they dreamed of being able to make the wines they wanted, free from state control. In 1996, they purchased 25 acres, set to work and became a well established vineyard known for their skill, quality and creativity. In 2002, a tragic workplace accident took Victor’s life but Anna carried on and with the help of her sister Elena, has honoured her husband’s memory and fulfilled their dream by producing wines of
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A40 - North Shore News - Sunday, November 6, 2011
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The Walnut Beach Resort is a brand new 112-suite luxury destination with a secluded private beach and amenities that include a conference centre, complimentary wireless internet, steam room, sauna, guest laundry and more.
quality and character. On the nearby Black Sage bench, Desert Hills Estate Winery has been racking up the awards for their Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Gris. Owned and operated by the Toor family, their wine tasting room is open year round and if you’re lucky, Randy Toor will be on hand to help you explore their products. Perhaps the most remarkable winery is Nk’Mip Cellars, located on the north east slope above Osoyoos Lake closer to town. North America’s first Aboriginal owned and operated winery, in 2011 Nk’Mip’s wines took home over 100 medals from regional, national and international competitions including a ‘best of
category’ double gold for their 2008 Merlot at the All Canadian Wine Championship in Ontario. The band started growing grapes in 1968, owns and operates the 340 acre Nk’Mip Vineyard and leases out land to other growers. Currently 1,155 acres of their land is dedicated to vines and plans include adding another 100-200 acres in the next year or two. Twenty five percent of all wine acreage in the Okanagan is on Osoyoos First Nation land. For many of us, just hearing the word ‘Okanagan’ evokes images and memories of fruit blossoms and sun baked hills, refreshing lakeshore days and endless powder skiing. Since the
Coquihalla Highway and 97C Connector were put in place, much of the Lower Mainland’s Okanagan experience begins and ends in Kelowna, yet this vast region — rich in history, culture, nature and recreation — offers visitors much, much more. In the end it is the spirit of the people who live here and of those drawn from far away, yearning for a better life, that makes the Okanagan what it is. The work of individuals, fuelled by dreams and passion is galvanized in a collaborative environment to create a whole that is much bigger than the individual parts. If you haven’t been to the Okanagan for at least six months, go back. It will have changed, and for the better. ●
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