Melissa Nation

MELISSA MAGAZINE

Winter 2014

PLASTIC DREAMS MELISSA NATION WINTER 2014

MELISSA NATION Celebrating diversity and multiculturalism, Melissa’s Winter 2014 collection unites the world’s ethnicities. The search for our essence is transformed into collective ideals.

+ CHLOE NORGAARD NEW GLOBAL FASHION STAR INSPIRES 2014’s LOVE ZEITGEIST + I LOVE MELISSA TRAVELER, GUIDE OR LOCAL: WHO ARE YOU IN MELISSA’S NATION? + ROAMING FREE IT’S ALL ABOUT TRAVELING (LIVING WITHOUT FRONTIERS) + GLOBAL AESTHETICS RYAN TRECARTIN, RIRKRIT TIRAVANIJA AND BERNADETTE CORPORATION

MELISSA BLISS. FALL WINTER 2014.

MELISSA BOHO. FALL WINTER 2014.

www.melissa.com.br

www.melissa.com.br

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112 20 THE LANGUAGE OF COLORS Chloe Norgaard, the most beautiful member of the love generation, presents the Nation collection 84 DOLL PARTS Richard Mortimer (Ponystep) blends the amazing new styles designed by Melissa’s partners 112 OP ART A voyage to the 60s in polka dots, stripes and colors – super trendy and optical!

MELISSA IT. FALL WINTER 2014.

www.melissa.com.br

Melissa Nation

Winter 2014

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From the Editor How Melissa’s team

Play! Music that unites generations

Art Rirkrit Tiravanija, Ryan Trecartin

created the new collection

without geographical frontiers

and Bernadette Corporation

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Planet Earth Travelers, Guides or

Up in the sky Formats, colors and

Partners Gareth, VW, Jason Wu and

Locals, what is your mood?

symbols. Which is your flag?

Karl Lagerfeld: new styles!

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Perfect match Chloe Norgaard and

SPFW Melissa’s first catwalk show

Overseas Campana Brothers in NYC

Anna Trevelyan for the cover shoot!

consolidates its global DNA

and the new Gallery in London

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Neokitsch The multitalented Fred

Take-off Designers bring ethnic

Baby Little gems for the first steps

Butler is inspired by the collection

fashion to the streets

of the new generation!

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Your world Fascinating stories and

Amazing Kansai Japanese designer

Fanclub Why do you consider

the best ways to travel around

created iconic looks for David Bowie

yourself part of Melissa’s Nation?

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Rituals More than welcome in

Style All about the latest fashion

Transcending art Casey Legler

contemporary daily life!

and beauty trends

and her chosen family

Melissa Nation Editorial Director Erika Palomino Editor Duda Porto de Souza

MARCIA FASOLI E ALE SCHNEIDER

Art Director Teo Menna Designer Elisa Carareto Visual coordination Vivi Bacco Translation Guilherme Eddino Proofreading André Rodrigues

MEINKE KLEIN

Cover

Graphic Production Jairo da Rocha Prepress, CTP, Printing and Finishing Log&Print Gráfica e Logística S.A. Graphic Project Ana Starling BIZU Design com Conteúdo

Jacket Stephen Sprouse @ House Of Liza, dress Jean Paul Gaultier @ House Of Liza, bracelets model’s own & MELISSA SOLDIER

Pants Persy, top Issey Miyake @ House Of Liza, bracelets model’s own & MELISSA CLASSIC HEEL

CONTRIBUTORS Ad Ferrera, Andréia Meneguete, André Rodrigues, Anna Trevelyan, Casey Legler, Christian Culkin, Eduardo Jordão de Magalhães, Eduardo Logullo, Fabio Tavares, Fred Butler, Heather Harmon, Ilana Rehavia, Jackson Araujo, Luigi Torre, Marcio Madeira, Nicolas Gaillard, Richard Mortimer, Sergio Amaral, Suzy Capó, Thiago Batista ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS All of Grendene + Melissa team

ADDRESSES IN THIS ISSUE AGENT PROVOCATEUR AGENTPROVOCATEUR.COM APARTAMENTO 03 (LUIZ CLAUDIO) APARTAMENTO03.COM.BR ARMANI ARMANI.COM ATSUKO KUDO ATSUKOKUDO.COM ASHISH ASHISH.CO.UK ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM BERNARD WILLHELM BERNHARD-WILLHELM.COM CÉLINE CELINE.COM COLCCI COLCCI.COM. BR COMME DES GARÇONS COMME-DES-GARCONS.COM ESCADA ESCADA.COM FRANCESCA MAROTTA FRANCESCAMAROTTA.COM GARETH PUGH GARETHPUGH.NET GENERAL EYEWEAR GENERALEYEWEAR.COM GIVENCHY GIVENCHY.COM HAPPY SOCKS HAPPYSOCKS.COM HOUSE OF HOLLAND HOUSEOFHOLLAND.CO.UK JASON WU JASONWUSTUDIO.COM JEAN PAUL GAULTIER @ HOUSE OF LIZA JEANPAULGAULTIER.COM JCDCASTELBAJAC @ HOUSE OF LIZA JC-DE-CASTELBAJAC.COM JEREMY SCOTT JEREMYSCOTT.COM KARL LAGERFELD KARL.COM KTZ KOKONTOZAI.CO.UK LETAGE LETAGE.COM.BR MARC JACOBS MARCJACOBS.COM MARIA BLACK MARIA-BLACK.COM MARTINA SPETLOVA MARTINASPETLOVA.COM MELISSA MELISSA.COM. BR MISSONI MISSONI.COM MOSCHINO MOSCHINO.IT NIKITA KARIZMA NIKITAKARIZMA.COM OPENING CEREMONY OPENINGCEREMONY.US OSKLEN OSKLEN.COM PRINTING PRINTING. PROVISORIO.WS RELLIK RELLIKLONDON.CO.UK ROBER DOGNANI CASADECRIADORES.UOL.COM.BR RONALDO FRAGA RONALDOFRAGA.COM.BR SIBLING SIBLINGLONDON.COM STEPHEN JONES STEPHENJONESMILLINERY.COM STEPHEN SPROUSE THESTEPHENSPROUSEBOOK.COM STATE OF CLAUDE MONTANA MONTANA.FR VALENTINO VALENTINO.COM VERSACE JEANS COUTURE VERSACE.COM VITOR ZERBINATO VITORZERBINATO.COM.BR VIVETTA VIVETTA.IT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.CO.UK YON LEE CASADECRIADORES.UOL.COM.BR YSL YSL.COM

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Erika Palomino

Writing and telling stories

FELIPE ABE

Plastic Dreams 11

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

the Beatles once said. Second,

It’s time for Melissa Nation!

In this eleventh issue of the

but not least, the exhibition at

PLASTIC DREAMS magazine,

Galeria SP, which recalls that

which presents both the 2014

one single moment on the first

Winter theme and collection,

day of November at Parque

we have contemplated both

Villa-Lobos, the Fashion Week’s

the inspiration behind each

venue, with our models, the

model and also how to insert

soundtrack, the energy that

them into the social, cultural

changed Melissa’s history. And

and fashion context of the

mine too, as I was able to con-

moment. It’s the so-called

MARCIA FASOLI AND ALE SCHNEIDER

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Plastic Dreams

ceive and prepare that show

Zeitgeist we keep mentioning

on three families, as they

– a German expression that

say, on groups of consumers

means “spirit of the times”.

named as Travelers, Guides

and under the winds of the

and it doesn’t come alive as

and Locals (you can find

collective and collaborative

soon as it gets to the stores, gal-

examples on page 14).

spirit, where talents combine

leries and Melissa Clubs around

in pursuit of the same goal:

the planet, but on your feet.

Conceptually, we are talking about multiculturalism, ancestries and about the streets, the so-called call “real life”.

As for the products, Melissa’s creative team focused

However, the most perfect

that I will never forget.

We always move forward,

and every night. Thus, each Melissa model is also unique,

translation of what we mean

being part of your life with the

is divided in two stages. The

best plastic dreams that

consultant, magazine director,

first was Melissa’s historical

will be right there for

and Melissa lover since my

fashion show in São Paulo

you every day

teenage years, I invite you to

As part of this team as a

Fashion Week, when we

read and enjoy this special

had our debut on the official

PLASTIC DREAMS, which sets

catwalk of Brazilian fashion

off the celebration for the 35th

with multi-ethnic looks that

anniversary of this truly global

challenged the sharpest critics

love brand. Bringing people

from the first row (and also

together and fostering creation

the public) to identify each

and freedom is a part of my

country or tribe that was

work, writing and making

being referred to. Actually, it

these stories. I belong to the

was “all together now,” as

Melissa Nation.

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Plastic Dreams

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Our nation!

CHARLIE LE MINDU

French hairstylist Charlie Le Mindu does unbelievable things with hair. Besides his work with clients such as Rihanna, Kate Moss, Christina Aguilera and Lana del Rey, he also uses hair to create beautiful and bizarre wigs, hairpieces and outfits, worn by the likes of Lady Gaga and Drew Barrymore. Le Mindu’s shows at London Fashion Week are

MEINKE KLEIN

NICOLAS GAILLARD

always a talking point of the

French photographer Nicolas Gaillard started

season and he currently has

taking pictures as a child, when he always

pieces exhibited in museums

had a camera with him. “I started by myself

around the world.

and learnt by myself”, he says. Gaillard was

THOMAS PETHERICK

He started his career when just

responsible for the backstage pictures of our

Set designer Thomas Petherick

Dutch photographers Meinke ten Have and Kees

12 years old, in a very small

London photo shoots. “With my work, I try to

likes to invent spaces that have

de Klein met on their first day at university in

salon in the countryside of

represent something I have in my head. To fix

never been seen before. “I don’t

the Netherlands. She was studying fine arts and

France and, at 17, moved to

the moment, the emotion and share what I

want to create rooms, build

he was doing design. “Somehow we ended up

Berlin in search of celebrities

see.” Gaillard does a lot of jewellery photog-

walls, get sofas. I want to create

in a dance class together. We both really sucked,

and nightlife. “I had no money,

raphy and was off to work with Chanel in Paris

environments that aren’t natural.”

but we hit it off immediately”, says Klein. They

so I started working with drag

after our shoot. He has also worked with brands

He studied design at the highly

queens and their wigs”, he

such as Silvia Toledano and Bottega Veneta.

regarded Goldsmiths University,

says. Despite all his outlandish

When he’s not busy travelling the world for

in London, and started out his

became best friends and do practically everything together, including taking the beautiful

SHARNA OSBORNE

pictures you can see on the cover shoot. “At

Videomaker Sharna Osborne, who filmed the

creations, however, his main

jobs, he concentrates on his personal projects.

career making hats, accessories

the moment we are looking a lot at pictures

backstage buzz of our London photo shoots,

goal when styling a woman is

At the moment, he is working on portraits of

and props for different designers

that are very colorful, graphic, energetic and

likes to tell a story with her images. “In my

to make her feel good.

people with their favourite object, which he

and stylists. Petherick soon moved

always contain a certain sense of humour.” The

work there needs to be a narrative aspect, a

“A woman won’t look good if

then makes transparent, a commentary about

on to set designing, however,

duo’s images have appeared in magazines like

movement. Fundamentally, I make documenta-

she doesn’t feel good, even if

the positive and negative sides of consumerism

because he hated being trapped

“Vogue Netherlands”, “Elle”, “V Magazine” and

ries”, she tells us. Sharna started working with

she’s wearing Chanel or Alex-

(check it out on page 30).

in the studio all the time. “I love

“Dazed & Confused”. They also collaborated with

video while studying fine arts in her native

ander McQueen.” (check it out

what I do and I love stress. I hate it

stylist Anna Trevelyan to create a series of GIFs

New Zealand. “I wasn’t happy with what I was

on page 20).

when I have a day off and nothing

for hyped website SHOWstudio. They are secre-

doing until I discovered moving images and

to worry about.” He has worked

tive about their next projects, but would love to

the time element.” She moved to London four

with clients such as Nike, Burberry,

have more time in their busy diaries. “Our plan

years ago and has worked with magazines

Wrangler, Royal Festival Hall, “Elle”

for the future is trying to make 48 hour days,

“Visionaire” and “Wonderland”, designer Mead-

and “Vogue”. One of his most

eight days a week, and thirteen months a year

ham Kirchhoff and actor Kit Harington, from

memorable jobs was building a

so we can do more and better!” (check it out

Game of Thrones. For Sharna, spontaneity is the

pop-up shop from scratch in two

on page 20).

key. “The things that couldn’t be directed, that

days. “There was a lot of Red Bull

come out of someone naturally, are the things

involved”, he recalls (check it out

that excite me about what I do.”

on page 112).

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Chris was born and raised

AMANDA MARSALIS

Plastic Dreams

in NYC and calls himself a “screenwriter at heart”. Having studied Creative and Professional writing at Manhattanville College and Buddhist Art & Architecture in Kyoto, Japan, his connection with art

LUIGI TORRE 28, considers himself to be “extremely shy and chronically anxious”. Assuming he’d

AD FERRERA

HEATHER HARMON

and journalism started early in his career. Amongst the publications his work has been

GILLIAN STEINER

Born in Sao Paulo, Luigi Torre,

CHRISTIAN CULKIN

featured in are “Lid Magazine” and a new book commemorating the Rolling Stones’

rather “avoid unnecessary

legendary concert at Hyde

contact with other human

Park in 1969. His relationship

beings”, he prefers to spend

with the publishing house,

time with his beloved dog, Zé.

“The Waverly Press”, based in

This young prodigy majored in

his home town, has given him

Journalism from PUC-SP, and

the opportunity of working

With an eight-year-long career,

Heather Harmon is a freelance writer, inde-

has been writing about fash-

with renowned photographers

designer and DJ AD Ferrera

pendent curator and co-founder of Champions

ion since he became a trainee.

such as Baron Wolman, Billy

has traveled a lot, having

of Culture, an artist advocacy and consulting

Luigi started focusing on inter-

Name and Michael Cooper. A

crossed the country DJing at

organisation. She studied art history, theory

net publications, working for

rare contemporary simplicity

parties, clubs and events.

and criticism, first as an undergraduate with

almost six years at FFW.com.br

During his four-year residence

Dave Hickey at the University of Nevada, Las

(the former São Paulo Fashion

at Bar Secreto, in São Paulo,

Vegas. She continued her education at the

Week website), and then

The multitalented Casey Legler has always

amazing career he is tracing,

he headed TROPICANALHA

Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, CA.

went on to edit the digital

reached audiences with a strong stance. Born in

and what made him the

alongside Jackson Araujo, who

Upon graduation, she founded and operated a

magazine “U+MAG”. Around

France and currently living and working in NYC,

perfect candidate to interview

also contributes to this issue,

small experimental gallery called Cartelle, that

2010, he had outgrown the

she was once a high-level athlete and joined

people who travel the world

among other parties. He has

focused on group exhibitions that combined

urgency of online publish-

the French swimming team, participating in

to document different ethnici-

already shared the turntables

emerging and established artists. Most recently

ing and started collaborating

the Atlanta Olympic Games in 1996. One of the

ties (read story on page 36).

with major international

she worked as a gallery director of Regen

with print media: the extinct

most influential members of the LGBTQ commu-

No wonder he finds his inspi-

names such as Justice, Michel

Projects, and previously held the same position

fashion supplement of “Folha

nity, she helps promote ACON, an HIV/AIDS as-

ration in “people who aren’t

Gondry and Brodinski, and

at Patrick Painter. In her professional experi-

de São Paulo” newspaper,

sociation. In 2012, she became the first female

afraid to smile and be honest

had people like Michael Stipe,

ence, this art expert has worked with a number

“ffwMag!”, and “Criativa”. In

model to be represented by an agency within

all the time” (read story on

Marc Jacobs and Vincent Cassel

of seminal living artists worldwide and has

2012, Erika Palomino, Editor-

the men’s division (Ford Models). Her strategy

page 36).

running to the dance floor.

initiated and completed complex large scale

in-Chief of PLASTIC DREAMS,

is part of reflection on the influence of culture

For three years he has been a

projects and exhibitions. Melissa was thrilled

invited him to become part

on behaviour, working as an artist expressing

resident DJ of Carnival group

when she joined to team to write about artists

of the “L’Officiel” Brazil team,

herself through different medias. Her work and

I Love Cafusú, in Recife. Since

whose works connect to a global audience

where he edits fashion and

words have appeared in “The Guardian”, “The

2009, he has headed ONONO,

(read story on page 74).

for which he travels the world

Observer”, “Time Magazine” and “V Magazine”.

(see page 70).

This “change agent”, as she is referred to by

his own clothing brand with an

CASEY LEGLER

authorial, artistic and collabor-

the media, has invited artist Margaret Singer

ative nature. For this issue, AD

and Max Freeman to join her in creating an art-

prepared a track list inspired

work to close this edition of PLASTIC DREAMS, in

by Melissa Nation (check it out

order to communicate contemporary notions of

on page 54).

family and labour that cross boundaries without the need of a passport. Such document is in the quality of the work itself (see page 120).

is key to his work, which will most definitely be part of the

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

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GUI MOHALLEM

GETTYIMAGES

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VIVI BACCO

Plastic Dreams

1 The beauty of a woman from the Mursi ethnic group in Ethiopia 2 In a traffic road sign in Uruguay, an installation shows off the country’s loose spirit 3 A group of gypsies travel around the Northeast region in Brazil 4 Night scene in Hong Kong

A NATION IN ITSELF MELISSA WINTER 2014 COLLECTION REINFORCES MUTUAL RESPECT AMONG PEOPLE OF ALL BACKGROUNDS, FAITHS, RACES, NATIONALITIES AND BIRTHPLACES. MELISSA NATION IS INCREASINGLY PRESENT IN ALL PARTS OF THE GLOBE, ADDRESSING ISSUES SUCH AS THE ANCESTRAL QUEST, URBAN NOMADISM AND STREET CULTURE.

Text Erika Palomino

Welcome to the Melissa

VIVI BACCO

4

Melissa Nation is unlike any

of each one. The song of

looking around them. The

Nation. Here, no entry visa,

other you’ve ever heard. It’s a

everyone. Several. Many of

fact is that all members of

passport or customs are

mix of the dialects of Design,

them. We are very loose here

this large group are always

required, only free transit

Fashion, Innovation and Good

in Melissa Nation.

traveling, traveling, travel-

among good-willed citizens.

Spirits. The most common

In times of multiculturalism

word is plastic, which is

2014 in “Folha de S. Paulo”,

research, get inspired, visit

and transversality, Melissa

almost used as a comma.

journalist Janio de Freitas

art fairs, architecture, and

defined it well: “The essential

design exhibitions. So they

Winter 2014 collection rein-

Our flag stands for all colors

In an article from January

ing around. So they can

forces mutual respect among

and races, and the skin color

element in a Nation’s existen-

can carry Melissa’s values

people of all backgrounds,

of those who were born here

ce is the people. It is not the

forward. Exchange ideas.

faiths, races, nationalities and

(or those who chose this as

territory nor the State, both

Or even the humble goal

birthplaces. As it is increa-

their favorite place in the cos-

nonexistent in various forms

of... seeing what’s going on

singly present in all parts of

mos) is pure miscegenation.

of nation throughout history.”

around (this includes walk-

the globe, there’s nothing

So there is no kind of preju-

Therefore, when Melissa’s

ing around Brazil, Melissa

more spontaneous for Melissa

dice. Our anthem is pretty

team choose this theme as

Nation’s motherland). During

other than honoring all kinds

simple: that doo doo doo we

the tutti-frutti scented base

all those hours in cars, on

of people. And given the

sing whenever we are relaxed

note for its collection, as

planes, vans, buses and even

sports calendar, this year they

and in a good mood. There’s

always, they did something

motorcycles (!), not only we

will eventually meet in Brazil.

also the occasional whistle.

almost obvious yet some-

discover “upcoming trends”.

The language spoken in

How is that song? The song

thing that not everyone does:

If travelers are, in theory,

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Plastic Dreams

VIVI BACCO

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

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PHOTOS: GETTYIMAGES

5 A hut in Punta del Diablo village, on Uruguay’s coast 6 A pedestrian crossing in Shibuya, Tokyo 7 Moai statues on Easter Island, one of the most isolated places on Earth 8 A traveler in Torres del Paine Park, in Chile 9 A seemingly rather contemporary cave painting depicting a hunter 10 Carving on Maori canoe Ngatokimatawhaorua, used in migrations to New Zealand

“in search of something”, we

to express ourselves. Art and

Tourism for the holiday and

our thinking mind? Some-

the shoulder and swimming

know what? It doesn’t matter.

are is far from preconceptions,

you know and also to people

realize that certain types of

storytelling. Sounds contem-

for the soul. We wanted to

times we feel kind of lost.

in the open sea on wooden

Being interested in other

stereotypes and classifications.

you don’t know. And if Earth

travelers may actually be in

porary, right? Yeah.

get somewhere or nowhere.

And we don’t even need to

boards, while the women

ways of being reflects less

We, from the Melissa Nation,

is cartographically limited

We proceeded. Nomads,

be in an unfamiliar neighbor-

dance gracefully intending

curiosity rather than respect

firmly believe that. This is our

by borders, the planet can

become different with every

wanderers, gypsies. A wise

hood, a strange party or an

to be the queen of the party.

for differences, whether they

constitution. And unlike some

also be divided between nice

Whether it is because many

migration? Cities, or the dis-

person, French ethnologist

odd street.

And if you want to see it

be ancient or routinely posted

countries, we assert this state-

people and boring people. Be

of us will go and try to find

placement experiments that

Marc Augé, created about

How different is your

yourself, get ready, because

on Facebook. Someone who

ment of values.

nice, then. It will make all the

our roots, visit the land of

they lead to, are transforma-

20 years ago an expression

ordinary life from those of

capital Hanga Roa goes crazy

lives in a different way, who

our ancestors or identify our

tive, life changing. Argentin-

that became important: the

the Rapa Nui, from Easter

with this festival and attracts

thinks in a different way, who

ing literally, we can travel to

and action – you have earned

family’s origin. In summary,

ean poet Jorge Luis Borges (if

non-place. In theory, they

Island? Every February in

people from all over the

IS different than you can be

utopian worlds, wondering

your virtual permit so you

to find out whom we are.

you don’t know his work, go

are transient places with-

this extraordinary, remote

world. Why? Maybe to revere

nice. Melissa Nation member,

how everything would be

can be part of Melissa Nation

The idea of ancestry is much

for it) said: “man is always

out relevant meaning to be

location in the great Pacific

these people that, long ago,

you’ve realized that being

better if everyone thought

(don’t you feel special and

more present now in cultural,

the first man, the river is

defined as “a place”. Think

Ocean – which, formally, is

left the Polynesian islands on

different can be, and IS nice.

alike. On the other hand, we

different as you walk around

anthropological and even ar-

always the first river. Because

of an airport or bus station

Chilean territory – the Tapati

canoes, stopped by and built

Think of differences as being

can work so that actually

in Melissas?) Then, once

chaeological discussions, with

all the running waters are

lounge, a dentist waiting

festival is held, in which the

their famous Moai statues.

thinner (or fatter), way too

happens, raising flags, boards,

again, welcome!

the real-life Indiana Jones

new, and we also are new

room or a convenience store.

male population competes

Oh, so you or your boyfriend

tall (or shorty), gay, straight,

and cardboards in manifes-

using picks and brushes to

each time we touch them”.

These spaces were turned

joyfully (while dressing funny

got a Maori tattoo? They cre-

white, black, Buddhist, Evan-

tation. We can also act in

quote an old song, by North-

carve rocks, caves and even

So, in order to feel the

into “places” by contempo-

pants), in categories such as

ated these as well. And why

gelical, bald or Japanese. Does

invisible and intangible ways,

eastern legend Luiz Gonzaga:

the bottom of the sea. Think

temperature and the flavor

raneity itself. Consider it: is

slipping on tree trunks from

did you have it drawn on your

it matter? Yes, and no, because

in an ordinary and everyday

“my life is all about crossing

of a cave painting. That’s us,

of different streams (real or

there anything to be better

the top of a volcano, running

body? Maybe you don’t know

deep down, we’re all equal

mode. Things like smiling at a

this country, to find out if one

zillions of years ago, trying

metaphorical), we traveled.

defined as a “non-place” than

with bunches of bananas on

the reason yourself. And you

as humans. The person you

stranger, being nice to people

day I’ll happily rest.”

search of themselves.

The cliché is justified.

Isn’t it also true that we

If we’re not always travel-

difference. With this thought –

Finally, I felt I needed to

Plastic Dreams

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Collection | Moods

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

TRAVELERS The girls who love novelties and who wish to explore other cultures were in our minds when we came up with the Travelers models, which refer to global cities like London, New York, Paris and Tokyo, but also small and charming towns such as the beaches from the Amalfi Coast and Thailand. The result is a mixture of the beach’s freshness with the city’s convenience.

MELISSA MOON DUST The boots are a great addition to your wardrobe, as

MELISSA BALLET HEEL

PHOTOS: VIVI BACCO

they can be styled for both day and evening wear. With its practical low heel, it comes in both gradient neutral tones (brown,

The success of the flat

grey and beige) and in two versions with splashes that

version was adapted for

resemble moon dust!

more sophisticated occasions.

It was inspired by a reinterpretation of

#LOVETRIANGLE #TOOCOOL #FULLMOON

the ballet shoes, featuring a high heel and rounded toe, plus a delicate lace and matching ribbons to be tied around the ankles.

MELISSA COLOR FEELING This equally fun and versatile style

MELISSA ULTRAGIRL

can be worn to play “Just Dance” on WII

With flocked finishing, Melissa’s

or on a first date! In the best spirit of geek style

Ultragirl style now comes with light tar-

fashion, Melissa Color Feeling is both romantic and

tan patterns in the insole and a color palette

futuristic, and comes in various finishings: matte, shinny

that includes black, red, navy blue, pink and light

and metallic! Plus: it is equipped with the new Confort insole,

military green. A great addition to every girl’s closet, to

adding extra enjoyment to every experience.

be worn at the cinema, at a party, or at work!

#WIIIIIIII #GOODMORNING #SMOOTH

#COMPANION #NEWCLASSIC #4JETSETTERS

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

#CLASSIC #DELICATE #FEMININE

MELISSA CLASSIC HEEL

MELISSA INCENSE LACE

Every girl who travels, no

The Incense style is one of

matter to which destination

Melissa’s sexiest must-haves, now with

in the world, needs to have in her

a romantic lace attached at the back. With

luggage some good party heels. The

a flocked finish and a practical color palette

Classic Heel is perfect for this. It’s modern and

(black, red, dark brown and green) it will look

sensual, featured in key colors black, gray and

breathtaking both in the red carpet or with your

nude, and in vibrant shades of red and pink.

favourite jeans in a business meeting! Go for it!

#LIFEONTHEROAD #PRESSPLAY #CLUBBING

#MUSTHAVE #ROMANCE #DESIRE

Plastic Dreams

16

Collection | Moods

17

GUIDES The Guides family features new models for the funky girls who are always travelling to the world’s hotspots. It’s all about mixing styles, with urban references and touches from the 90s.

The street style boom is pure inspiration.

PHOTOS: VIVI BACCO

MELISSA FLIP The wedge sandal refers to the street scene from the 80s and it will make any girl feel as if she’s on top of the world!

MELISSA SOLDIER

With its innovative strips that interact with the heel, Melissa Flip has a striking style. The color matching has two different finishing

The military-inspired ankle boot with heels features lug outsole without losing its

types: flocked or glossy. And the color palette is elegant, with

femininity! The thick heel provides stability and

gray and navy, off-white and black, burgundy, black and gray.

shapes the legs, and the elastic side buckle ensures

#GIRLPOWER #INNOVATION #CITYGIRL

comfort for the cold days. The lacquered finish makes it ideal for every glamorous moment!

An icon of urban fashion,

MELISSA CAMPANA PAPEL

Melissa’s take on the slip sne-

One of the coolest styles born

akers features much more humor:

from the ongoing partnership with

a printed kitten in matched colors, com-

renowned Brazilian design duo Campana

plete with little protruding ears. This version

Brothers, “Papel” imitates the undulations of

is flocked and the color palette makes it stand out

cardboard boxes and is now available with glitter fi-

even more: pink, burgundy, gray, navy and black.

nishing. A great option to be worn with colorful leggings

Every cosmopolitan girl will love it!

and a large t-shirt! Have fun!

#HIT #STREETSTYLE #MEOWWWW

#SATISFACTION #MELISSAHISTORY #SPARKLES

MELISSA IT

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

#SINGINGINTHERAIN #AIRPORTSTYLE #PRACTICAL&GLAM

MELISSA RIDING SPECIAL These riding style boots are superb to be in a practical color palette (black, military green and

MELISSA NECKLACE

brown). The high heel is detachable, turning Melissa Riding

The model has a (detachable) overlay that covers

Special into super cool chelsea style boots. Welcome spring

the structure from the leg to the instep, stretching the

wearing them with your favourite trousers or shorts, depen-

silhouette. The mid-cut makes it perfect for everyday use:

ding on the temperature!

a new classic for your wardrobe.

#UPWEGO #STREETSTYLE #THEWORLDISYOURS

#URBANCHIC #SLIM #DAYWEAR

worn all winter, especially as they are available

Plastic Dreams

18

Collection | Moods

19

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

LOCALS Created for women who rely on a modern and functional look, blending tailoring with the architectonic sensuality of the cities they visit. The styles from the Locals group bring the best from the culture and the avant-garde design of the most innovative tourist attractions on the planet!

MELISSA STYLE

PHOTOS: VIVI BACCO

Melissa Style has a flat sole reminiscent of Japanese clogs, which are still used in the traditional way or mixing trends. It’s

MELISSA BOHO

comfortable, due to the thick sole and fitting straps,

Despite the classic shape, the structure

and it’s a season key piece in the wardrobe of trend-

of Melissa Boho has many unique details: the

setters. In colors blue, pink, off-white, gray and black.

geometric heel is slightly larger than the fitting heel,

#BALANCE #GLOBETROTTER #TRADITION

and the “V-neck” design on the instep matches the peep-toe. Available in flocked and matte versions.

MELISSA PATCHULI Melissa’s precious anabela high heels come with a matte finishing and in bicolor combinations with a stripe that outlines the back of the style. Its heel has approximately 9cm and is extremely comfortable, perfect to be worn with a long skirt. Urban chic at its best!

#STYLISHCOMFORT #SKY #FASHIONTECHNOLOGY

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

#AVANT-GARDE #STYLISH #UNIQUE

MELISSA ULTRAGIRL SWEET

MELISSA VIRTUE SPECIAL It’s London calling, baby! With flocked

The romantic bow attached to

finishings, Melissa Virtual Special comes

Melissa’s classic Ultragirl style now

in black and red with a tartan insole and an

comes with tiny silver and grey stars, resem-

elegant double spike detail, and in dark purple and

bling spikes. This trendy version will accompany

green with a bee at the front. Our busy city bee’s will

you in the best parties of the season, so you don’t have

look extra stylish blending styles and wearing them with

to leave the dance floor until the day rises, or make you

worn out jeans, or opt for black skinny pants and a beautiful

feel like a Local during the opening of an art show!

shirt to wear them to an important meeting.

#GOFORIT #WELLBEING #DANCEDANCEDANCE

#BUSYBEE #ARTLOVER #CLASSICBEAUTY

Plastic Dreams

20

The language of colors AMONGST ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT WORDS IN MELISSA’S DICTIONARY IS THE NOUN COLOR. HERE, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL REPRESENTATIVE OF THE LOVE GENERATION, MODEL SENSATION CHLOE NORGAARD, POSES FOR PLASTIC DREAMS TO SHOW WITH HOW MANY TONES A WINTER COLLECTION IS DESIGNED.

PHOTOGRAPHER MEINKE KLEIN STYLIST ANNA TREVELYAN ASSISTED BY ROSIE WILLIAMS & YAO YAO LIN HAIR CHARLIE LE MINDU @ JEDROOT USING GHD & HAIRDREAMS ASSISTED BY SHIORI MAKE UP LAURA DOMINIQUE @ STREETERS NAILS ZARRA CELIK @ CLM HAIR & MAKE-UP USING M.A.C MODEL CHLOE NOORGARD @ PREMIER SEE THE MAKING OF ON YOUTUBE/MELISSACHANNEL Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase

Dress stylist’s own Orange cuff Fashion Luxx Jacket Issey Miyake @ House Of Liza Other bracelets & necklace model’s own MELISSA ASCENSION + GARETH PUGH

Trousers Persy Bracelets model’s own Top Issey Miyake @ House Of Liza MELISSA CLASSIC HEEL

Jacket Jean Paul Gaultier @ House Of Liza Shirt (just seen) Jcdcastelbajac @ House Of Liza Hot pants Versace Jeans Couture @ House Of Liza MELISSA STYLE

24

Dress Jean Paul Gaultier @ House Of Liza MELISSA LOVELY

Shirt Gianni Versace @ House Of Liza Trousers Nikita Karizma Bracelets model’s own MELISSA BLISS

Jacket State Claude Montana @ House Of Liza Bracelets model’s own MELISSA NECKLACE

Dress Bernhard Willhelm @ Machine A Bracelets model’s own

Jacket Stephen Sprouse @ House Of Liza Dress Jean Paul Gaultier @ House Of Liza Bracelets model’s own

MELISSA MAGDA + JASON WU

MELISSA SOLDIER

30

Plastic Dreams

31

Anna Trevelyan: from Gaga to the world “I TRY TO BE ADVENTUROUS AND MAKE GIRLS FEEL HAPPY AND NOT AFRAID TO HAVE FUN WITH THE WAY THEY LOOK”, SAYS THE TOP STYLIST WHO SPENT THREE YEARS WORKING WITH NICOLA FORMICHETTI, COLLABORATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHERS SUCH AS RANKIN AND BRANDS LIKE HERMÈS, AND FINDS INSPIRATION IN CARTOONS AND COMICS.

Above: Anna Trevelyan supervises Chloe Norgaard during hair and makeup for the cover of the shoot

Text Ilana Rehavia Photos Nicolas Gaillard

ant popstar. It is no overstate-

edgy element to fashion. Anna

business card, the perfect

and hard working. All in all, a

property right now. So hot, in

Stylist Anna Trevelyan is hot

ment to say that Anna nabbed

seems to have a soft spot for

embodiment of the playful

pretty great package.

fact, that she was chosen as

one of the most coveted jobs

exciting new designers and

edge she favours in her work.

one of the top five emerging

in the industry, especially for

unusual clothes with a strong

During the two days shoot-

influential names in fashion

a newcomer. The pair met

visual impact, like the pieces

by the British newspaper “The

when Formichetti cast her as

Independent”.

a model in a campaign for

To understand the path that

Japanese brand Uniqlo. “Work-

Confused” and “Nylon” Japan;

well by individual characters

adding more and more names

and musicians Jessie J, Rita

or muses.”

to her ever-expanding list of

Ora and, of course, Lady Gaga.

she felt quite inept at taking

clients and projects. As a Fash-

“I always love to work on

with the job is also a source of

ing with us in London, her

photos that led her to styling.

ion Director at “Untitled” mag-

music videos”, she says.

great ideas and she counts her

you can see on the pages she

look was impossible to ignore

“I was really into making im-

azine, for example, she has

styled for PLASTIC DREAMS.

– a mix of bright colored

ages and clothes, but terrible

worked alongside super cool

ing looks that have seduced

as some of the most memo-

wigs, cute hats and clumpy,

at photography”, Anna recalls.

folks such as designer Hedi

so many big clients, Anna

rable. Living for the moment,

She could very well be de-

Ironically, it was the fact that

Since then, Anna has been

To come up with the amaz-

The travelling that comes

trips to Brazil, Japan and Africa

brought her to this point, we

ing with him was fantastic, I

scribing herself when talking

towering heels, which she

The solution came when she

Slimane and photographer El-

is influenced by the people

the stylist tells us that she’s

can’t ignore a certain Lady

will never forget any of it. It

about her styling philosophy:

sometimes kicked to the side

discovered a course in Fashion

len Von Unwerth (with whom

around her and random things

not really worrying about

Gaga. Anna spent three years

was a huge learning curve and

eccentric, sexy, bold and

for comfort. Her personality

Styling and Photography at

she dashed off to party after

that she sees when out and

long-term plans. “I can barely

assisting Gaga’s stylist Nicola

so inspirational, an amazing

weird. “I try to be adventurous

is also captivating, but in a

the London College of Fashion.

our photo shoot!). Her list of

about. “I’m also always re-

think further than next week”,

Formichetti, one of the most

experience”, she says.

and make girls feel happy and

much quieter way: sweet and

It was the perfect choice for

collaborations also includes

ally inspired by cartoons and

she says. “I just take it one

not afraid to have fun with the

soft-spoken. And she has a

her, and she was snapped up

photographer Rankin; brands

comics, and I watch loads of

step at a time and make sure

way they look”, she explains.

reputation – totally justified

by Formichetti straight out

like Topshop, Guess, Hermès

movies. I go to a lot of galler-

I make every day exciting.”

– for being very professional

of school.

and Nike; magazines “Dazed &

ies and love to get inspired as

Wise words, Anna.

talked about fashion figures of

From those times, she

recent times, famous for his

definitely carried on with the

bold work with the flamboy-

mission of bringing a fun and

The stylist is her own best

32

Plastic Dreams

33

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Rainbow warrior

A colorful explosion

Backstage images from the shooting of the cover of PLASTIC DREAMS 11 D” and “Miss Vogue”, fronted

other girls to be adventurous

on the back of her neck, a

the arrival of model Chloe

a campaign for Benetton and

with colors. The model dyes

moustache on the inside of

Norgaard. She is immediately

walked for Zac Posen, Rodarte

her hair herself, and so has a

her top lip, a star and crescent

recognizable by the rainbow

and Moschino Cheap & Chic.

few words of advice for those

moon on her finger and a key

For Chloe, her hair repre-

thinking of taking the plunge.

behind her left ear that she

her signature look and is

sents rebellion and thinking

“Have fun! There are so many

got matching with her mom.

making a huge impact on the

outside the box. A natural bru-

ways you can color your hair,

Chloe grew up in Long

fashion world.

nette, she started playing with

from sprays to chalk to mas-

Island, U.S., with a Polish

It is impossible to miss

colored hair that has become

It was a rainy day in London.

Traffic jams and flooding were predicted on the news. But,

clothes to the props, it was a

in which those three elements

image”, says the hairstylist.

It’s not farfetched to say

color in middle school, when

cara. Just play with it and don’t

mother and Danish father.

dream in Technicolor.

would blend together into one

“And I loved the material and

that it was once she decided

she would sit in class coloring

be scared.”

She’s pretty close to her family

big fun colorful explosion.”

the hues of the shoes, it was

to go from blonde to blue

her hair with markers and

great working with Melissa. In

that her career really took

highlighters. In high school,

about Chloe – besides her

to retire so that they can travel

At the studio built under the

Another striking feature

and can’t wait for her parents

while a huge grey cloud hov-

railway arches in the trendy

ered above the city, there was

neighbourhood of Shoreditch,

did some real contortionism,

the end, I decided to match the

off. Chloe started modelling

she learnt some techniques

undeniable beauty, of course

the world together. Egypt, In-

one place where the rainbow

East London, the day flew by as

spread on the huge beanbags

shoes to her hair.”

four years ago in Tokyo. “They

from friends who were study-

– are her tattoos. She had 11

dia and Madagascar are some

came out all day, even without

the Dutch photographers duo

that were part of the set.

actually didn’t like me much

ing cosmetology. “It’s like

of them when we chatted, but

of her dream destinations.

the sun. On that stormy Friday,

Meinke ten Have and Kees de

Beyond just the clothes and

rupted for lunch, a delicious

there, so I ended up DJing

my art project on my head.

was planning to add more to

Her plans for the future also

an explosion of color took

Klein shot beautiful Chloe. “We

the props, her entire look was

vegetarian lasagne. And after a

and just exploring the amaz-

I have been drawn to colorful

the collection. “My first one I

include learning French and

over the studio that hosted

wanted to shoot the images

thought out to celebrate colors:

hectic working day, the PLASTIC

ing city.” When she let loose

things my whole life, so it’s

got when I was 16 and it says

Japanese. “And space! I really

PLASTIC DREAMS’ photo shoot.

as compact and essential as

the makeup created by Laura

DREAMS team left to enjoy the

on the hair dye, however,

just extended to my hair”,

“Penny Lane” on the inside of

want to go into space”, she

From American model Chloe

possible, so it was only about

Dominique, the nails painted

London nightlife. It was Friday,

everything changed. Since

she tells us.

my lip, basically because of

says. Something tells us that

Norgaard’s hair to the multi-

Chloe, the shoes and the super

by Zarra Cellik and the hair pre-

after all, and by that point

then, Chloe has been on the

the movie ‘Almost Famous.”

she might just fulfil her dream

colored wig sported by super

vibrant colors”, says Klein.

pared by Charlie Le Mindu.

even the rain had decided to

pages of “Harper’s Bazaar”

followers on Instagram, Chloe’s

She also has the words “pure,

of taking that rainbow head

stylist Anna Trevelyan, from the

“We tried to create a setting

take a break.

(shot by Terry Richardson), “i-

look is no doubt inspiring

powerful, spontaneous & rare”

into orbit.

While it rained outside, Chloe

“I wanted to respect Chloe’s

The shoot was only inter-

With more than 150,000

34

THE MANY TALENTS OF FRED BUTLER Art Fred Butler Photos Tara Darby Text Ilana Rehavia PARTNERING WITH BRANDS SUCH AS TOPSHOP AND M.A.C COSMETICS, SINGERS NICKI MINAJ AND BETH DITTO, AS WELL AS THE V&A MUSEUM, THE MULTITALENTED ARTIST IS ALSO INSPIRED BY MELISSA!

It is hard to describe what

tion and fun. “The common

Fashion Week and is preparing

Fred Butler does in just one

thread in all my work is the

a retrospective exhibition of her

word. The multitalented artist

desire to achieve and transmit

work, which she describes as

designs accessories and props,

a feeling to uplift viewers and

“tactile, multi-layered, colorful,

produces fashion films and is

wearers. I want to transport

playful, curious and cosmic”.

art director of photo shoots.

people to another dimension”,

Fred also has a very successful

she tells us.

blog where she records her

Fred studied womenswear

Fred loves the universe of Melissa and sees a lot in common between her work

life and London’s creative and

at the University of Brighton

and the aesthetic of the brand.

cultural scene.

and started her career intern-

“We share a similar vibe of

Her impressive client list is

ing for fashion collective As

creating bright, bold and fun

as diverse as her endeavours

Four and then assisting set

accessories”, she says. For

and includes MTV, V&A Mu-

designer Shona Heath. After

her, the concept of M-Nation

seum, band Sigur Ros, singers

that, she decided to branch

evokes the idea of a folklore

Nicki Minaj and Beth Ditto,

out on her own. “At that time,

or religion that would be the

M.A.C Cosmetics, Samsung,

I also started to keep a blog to

result of a future crossover of

Topshop, Nike and Swatch, for

record my life and it unexpect-

cultural exchanges and influ-

whom she created a limited

edly became an equal and

ences. Or, in her own trippy

edition watch.

integral part of my brand.”

words: “Imaginary Future

All her creations share an

She recently fulfilled her

element of color, experimenta-

dream of showing at London

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

ANTHONY LYCETT

Plastic Dreams

Folk Hybrid Nomad Shamanic Supernatural Shrines.”

35

36

Plastic Dreams

37

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Carolyn Nash’s “insatiable curiosity” took her from Bloomington (Indiana), U.S., to Nairobi, Kenya. While backpacking across Asia, she also learned about Australian and Israeli cultures through friends she made along the way.

EXPLORE YOUR WORLD WHERE DO I FIT IN?

WHETHER FOR WORK, ADVENTURE, LEARNING, OR SHEER CURIOSITY, TRAVELLING GIVES YOU THE POSSIBILITY OF EXPANDING YOUR PERSONAL BOUNDARIES. IT IS ABOUT LEARNING ABOUT DIFFERENT CULTURES AND PEOPLE, BUT MOST OF ALL, YOURSELF.

“Insatiable curiosity” is the reason travelers like Carolyn Nash step out of their comfort zone to explore different culyoung woman from Bloomington, Indiana. She is the prime example of a young, curious

Text Christian Culkin

person hungry for adventure.

“Although I’ve spent most of my time traveling, both short and long term, in other

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF CAROLYN NASH

tures. Carolyn is an educated

countries, in some ways I think the first significant travel experience for me was my move to New York City.” Carolyn remembers her earliest desire for traveling as being inspired by this trait of insatiable curiosity.

Her desire to see new things and the significance that new and challenging experiences In my hometown of New York

travels can serve as a remem-

Here are five people from

City, I see tourists come and go

brance for everything you have

all over the world who, ready

as often as I see my neighbors

learned, want to remember, and

or not, have expanded their

next door. With their maps in

will be valuable to never forget.

horizons by leaving home and

There’s a whole world out

hand and their heavy-duty

have had, helped Carolyn bet-

looking to make some extra

“right place” in the middle of

lot about her limits. “I learned

teen years old at the time

cash to feed their traveling

her new world.

what it feels like to be pointed

and hadn’t finished high

habit. Carolyn entered the

supportive of my decision, and

school yet. “I had complete

“Big Apple” with only a list

in New York has defined a

laughed at by sixteen-year-old

traveling the globe. I’d like to

it was only much later that I

faith – naive faith, though it

of vague contacts, and once

good deal of what travel has

boys while standing on an

ter understand herself.

“My parents were incredibly

Carolyn was only seven-

“I think that first experience

at and photographed and

digital camera around their

there, but some of us are too

introduce you to these travelers,

found out how terrified my

worked out – that I would find

she got to the city she was

meant to me since: It’s come

overcrowded train across China

neck, most tourists seems to

caught up in our own lives in

educators, volunteers, writers,

mother was,” Carolyn remem-

something right for me,

able to secure an internship at

from a part of me that asks

for fourteen hours. I learned to

have it down: You leave home,

our own homes that we forget

and artists that have experi-

bers, “not of the move to New

a place, in the middle of a

the “New York Press”, where

‘What’s out there, where can I

get over things. I also learned

you walk around in search of

that exploring a world outside of

enced the immense highs and

York but of my resistance to

new world, to feel comfort-

she wrote food columns and

fit in?’ and from my conviction

to walk away from things.”

famous landmarks, you learn

our comfort zone is one of the

the repairable lows that leaving

pursue something more tradi-

able in my own skin.” She

wrote articles on such obscure

that I can slip comfortably into

The people you meet on

about them (or lag behind as

best things we can do to better

your home country has to offer.

tional and structured, such as

remembers this time as a

topics as East Village square

a place that, at first, seems an

your travels can also be very

your friend does), and then

ourselves. Understanding how

One thing all of these people

an internship with “Seventeen”

huge jumping off point. “With

dancing clubs and the joy of

entirely alien world.”

valuable to your experience.

you document it. Whether it be

people function outside of their

have in common is their desire

magazine – something that

one move, the whole world

fetish wear. She met vari-

through writing in a journal, a

own country is vital, as there is

to see more and their ability to

she’d heard of people doing

seemed to open for me.”

ous writers and editors and

world exploration on a pretty

Asia (a trip that took her

public blog, or just straight up

plenty to learn from different

help the world come together,

before, something that already

developed a solid camaraderie

traveled route while in Asia,

from Japan to China, to Tibet

photography, documenting your

cultures, and so much to share.

one traveler at a time.

had a defined shape to it.”

and mentorship, finding that

where she says she learned a

to Vietnam), Carolyn insists

Finding work is another major concern among travelers

Carolyn expanded her

While backpacking across

38

Plastic Dreams

39

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF WILLOW NEILSON

Images by Australian musician composer, educator and writer Willow Neilson (center page), who sees the world through the lens of jazz music.

she learned as much about Australian and Israeli culture because that’s where her fellow backpackers were from.

“I met people on that trip who I still keep in touch with, people I love, people who were as revelatory to me as the countries I traveled through. They were perhaps the greatest gift of my first trip to Asia.”

Carolyn’s writing continues as she pursues her travels in Nairobi, Kenya, working for a non-governmental organization called Refugees United, a technology start up that has pioneered a platform to reconnect families who have been separated during their escape from conflict or natural disaster.

“A lot of my work is to write about what we’re doing and what it’s like to go into a refugee camp or a refugee-dominated neighborhood such as Eastleigh. Nairobi”. Carolyn explains: “We reach out on a case-by-case basis to people with extremely limited con-

ries a first time traveler is

make friends – they will be

that were sure to take him

is his love of music and his

of these songs on Thai radio it

nectivity; what it’s like to

sure to have. “I’d say expect

your best resource when you do

around the globe. More of

willingness to spread and

made me sit up. I think all of

help register people waiting

the lows,” Carolyn advises,

mess that one up. And, finally,

a creative mind, Willow actu-

acquire knowledge of other

these experiences have taught

the student to be in love

topic of acquiring funds. A

for hours in the offices of

“though when they hit, you

remember that when you look

ally became a musician after

cultures. Seeing through the

me just how rich, diverse and

with it as well,” Willow says.

struggling jazz musician, it

UNHCR, hoping for resettle-

can’t possibly be prepared for

back, you are going to regret

falling in love with jazz music

lens of a jazz musician, Willow

surprising the world is.”

“Sometimes you can create

wasn’t for some time that

ment; and of course what it’s

them. Embrace them and don’t

the things you didn’t do. Say

and the saxophone, sparking

takes what he can from other

that in the student, but usu-

he could pursue his dreams

like for families who do suc-

run from them. If you throw

yes whenever you can.”

a desire to make his way to

cultures and uses it as a tool to

heard music through the Indian

ally it is something innate to

of visiting the places he so

cessfully locate one another

yourself into something with

New York City to “see all the

inspire fresh ideas.

flute for the first time and

them. A big problem in many

desired to travel to. Bali, India,

over the platform, how they

conviction (into anything, not

THE SOUND OF TRAVEL

living gods of Black American

simply fell in love. He began

cultures is preservation of their

Zimbabwe, Ghana, Morocco,

are able to reach each other,

just a new country) you’re go-

Willow Neilson, an Australian

music”, as he puts it.

bit of knowledge of another’s

listening to Hariprasad Chaura-

art. Places like India and Bali

Cuba – all the countries with

and what the psychological

ing to end up looking at your-

musician, composer, educa-

Travel can be used to

culture demonstrates that you

sia, an eminent Indian classical

have vibrant musical traditions

music that sparked Willow’s in-

significance of that recon-

self in new and sometimes

tor and writer based in San

expand your knowledge of

respect and appreciate what

flautist, and found a common-

that are lovingly preserved

terest. His advice for any aspir-

nection is.”

painful ways. Hang in there.”

Diego, California, also had an

all of the arts. Whether it be

they do.” Willow goes on,

ality with jazz in the music.

(to a certain degree, many

ing world traveler concerned

urge to travel at a young age.

through visiting museums, ex-

“There is so much good music

may argue this) but in places

with expenses is to simply

Traveling isn’t always as

Carolyn goes on to give

“As a traveler, I find a little

Hungry for more, Willow

Education also plays a role

path for other disciplines.

“Passing on music requires

mon problem amongst most travelers, which is the dreaded

easy as it sounds. There

some more unique advice to

Crediting the Indiana Jones’

ploring monuments, or picking

out there, such as Luk Thung

in Willow’s travels. Having

like Burma and China, for

save, wait until you make your

are plenty of bumps that

travelers around the world.

films as his first inspiration to

up new instruments you never

from Thailand, who wrote funk

taught music in Australia

instance, many young people

budget and then have enough

are sure to come along

“Remember that there’s a

travel, Willow wanted to be an

even knew existed, traveling

versions of Northeastern folk

and China, Willow thinks it

are turning away from what

money for 25% more.

your journey that will spark

difference between bravery

archaeologist as a child, then

is learning.

songs that were created after

important to pass on musi-

just seems a remnant of an ir-

“Do your research, try to

loneliness, isolation, cultural

and stupidity, and try your best

a photographer for “National

the U.S. troops had visited the

cal traditions, and that music

relevant aspect of their past.“

travel as light as possible”,

disorientation, or other wor-

not to mess that one up. Also,

Geographic”, two professions

region. When I first heard one

education in particular lays the

Willow addresses the com-

Willow explains, as he lists

One of the most fascinating qualities to Willow Neilson

40

Plastic Dreams

41

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: SHARESE ANN FREDERICK

tion knowing that when a class returns from a foreign country, we’ve all changed a bit for the better.”

THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT Dani Bayer, a dynamic 26 year old, has her own outlook on companionship during her travels. For her, the rush, coupled with a sense of freedom and lack of responsibility, becomes addictive, which is something she would rather experience on her own.

“There is always, always something to be learned, some new food to be tasted, new people to meet. One should remain open to pos-

Images taken by graphic artist and photographer Sharese Ann Frederick, 26, who met our subject Roger Baumann through Manhattanville College as a student in the Art Department and traveled with him to Japan, where she took the pictures on these pages.

sibilities when traveling. If you keep an open mind and open heart you will always be amazed and grateful for what the world has to offer.”

Dani says, “Do not hesitate.

If you get anxious because you do not know what is going to happen out of your comfort zone, embrace it and just go. Do not back out – ever. Just go.”

some of his travel tips, “al-

example of someone who

will likely feel, at least for a

when traveling. It’s also impor-

Roger Baumann began leav-

“I’ll be doing something com-

egant presentation of Japanese

ways have mosquito repellent

travels to better his own work.

moment, a feeling of loneli-

tant to experience a culture on

ing his camera at home after

pletely unrelated to art when

foods, or the incredible sense

Learning the language of

and learn as much of the lan-

He believes that experiencing

ness or solitude. This can be

your own.

feeling that he was looking at

I’ll get a little mental nudge, a

of harmony and beauty in the

the culture you are in is also

guage as you can. Most of all,

other cultures, particularly the

ideal for some travelers, but

the world through a lens and

reminder of something that I

Japanese aesthetic, Baumann-

a very important thing to

be polite, friendly, and make a

people and their arts, is the

for others, sharing the experi-

to a foreign country, such

not experiencing much of what

saw while traveling. Instances

Travel.com will be happy to

remember when traveling.

fool out of yourself a little for

best reason to travel the world.

ence can make the trip all the

as Japan, I try very hard not

was around him. “Now I just

like this are real gems,” says

guide you in any way they can.

“Understanding what others

more enjoyable.

to get in the way of their

bring a sketch book,” Roger

Roger, “they are gifts from the

experiencing the culture on

says. “Someone always has a

past that are just now making

to work, study and volunteer

doing what they are doing

themselves known.”

in another country. “If you are

gives you a much better

other people’s amusement.”

Willow Neilson documents

“Music has been a huge part of my life and has been my

Sculptor and Professor of

“When I bring my students

There are many opportunities

are saying and why they are

his travels through writing,

path to spirituality, community,

Fine Arts, Roger Baumann

their own terms.” Roger says

camera. If I feel that I’m missing

filming, and taking photos.

healing, and also a living. I re-

has traveled the greater part

of young travelers: “Of course

a photo-op, I’ll ask someone

thinking about doing any of

idea and understanding of

One of his pursuits is to record

ally hope I can find my way of

of Asia, having specialized in

I have a fairly firm curriculum

to send me the images.” (Yet

Baumann’s tours to Japan

those things, I suggest that you

the place. I am able to do

random sounds like the bus

opening people’s eyes to the

art, culture, and garden tours

that I follow, but I also allow

another good reason for having

introduces one to many new

act on your thoughts,” Roger

so much more in just a few

rides in India, the taxi rides

wonder that lies beyond the

to Japan and Southeast Asia.

for a lot of free time. It is dur-

a travel companion).

artists, techniques, and the

says about traveling. “You will

days knowing the language

in Thailand, the train stops in

FM radio station playlists.”

Roger credits his wife, Karen,

ing this free, unstructured time

Sometimes memory is

essence of all things Japanese

be amazed at the opportunities

than I was in the first month

as being the perfect travel

I think my students get the

just as good a tool to use in

one could never get from stay-

for travel that await you. I find

when I didn’t know any of

most from their experience.”

your travels as anything else.

ing at home. I know this from

that I am always inspired when

it”, Dani admits.

It’s not until they get home,

personal experience as I have

I visit new places. I’ve never

Burma, and the walk through the streets in Colombia. His

NO CAMERAS, PLEASE!

companion for him. “She sees

photos, videos, and his writing

Companionship can also be a

all the things I miss,” he says.

Photography is obviously a

A creative artist, Roger

Volunteer work is a great

can be seen on his fascinating

key factor in your travels. Even

great way to document your

months later, that some trav-

joined Roger on one of his tours

once been disappointed or felt

way to introduce you to

website, WillowNeilson.com.

when your purpose of leaving

wander freely in a foreign

travels, but it’s certainly not the

elers realize what it is they

through Japan. Whether it be

that a new place was not worth

the world of travel, even if

home was to get away, you

country is good to remember

only way. Like Janet Hulstrand,

learned on their trip abroad.

the ancient temples, the el-

visiting. I get immense satisfac-

you’re still a minor. Groups

Willow Neilson is a prime

Allowing yourself time to

42

Plastic Dreams

43

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF DANI BAYER

like People to People International invite young adults and high school students to different places of the world where they “teach peace through understanding”, as Dani puts it. “They create a sense of ac-

Dani Bayer (right) was introduced to the world of travel through volunteer work, which can last way beyond visiting a particular site or helping a specific group.

ceptance by experiencing each other’s cultures.”

When Dani was still in high school, she went to Australia to help build houses for the dispossessed. As a senior, she went to Russia where she found volunteer work at an orphanage, and even helped build a basketball court for a group of street kids.

“The trip that made the most impact on my life was to South Africa”, Dani says.

While only seventeen, Dani ventured to that country to work in an orphanage where her perspective on the value of life completely changed. “I was a sheltered kid from an upper class suburb outside of Los Angeles, California. I had never seen with my own eyes how other people could live.”

Dani admits, “When I went to South Africa and went into the orphanages and the townships and saw how little these people had but how happy

“I taught in a Special Education

cultural differences in educa-

tion and play. In Tanzania, the

clearly the benefactors of Dani’s

taking pictures is the best

and I won’t learn even a quar-

simply having something to

and giving they were, it com-

classroom. The class consisted

tion. “None of the students

students are expected to sit

generous acts of kindness, the

way for her to document her

ter of what I learned spending

do when you leave home. The

pletely changed my outlook

of about 30 students, ages

were diagnosed or medicated.

at desks, recite the ABCs, and

real beauty is what Dani herself

travels. “I tried the blog and I

ten days in a different country.

trivial aspects of traveling are

on life. It clicked a switch in

four to eighteen. It was a one

All that was known was that

force a pencil into their hands

gets out of the experience.

tried to journal. I never keep

I have learned so much about

dwarfed by the knowledge and

me. I have honestly been ad-

room facility with dirt floors

these kids had mental and

and write what was dictated.”

“They make me so grateful

up! Photos bring me back to

the world around me as well as

appreciation you’ll gain when

dicted to Africa ever since.”

and cement walls and wired

physical issues. With the few

Your volunteer experience

for everything that I have in life

the moment. When I see a

about myself that I never would

exploring new cultures.

Dani Bayer has spent the

windows. There were no toys

education courses I had taken,

doesn’t have to end when your

and for everyone that I have

picture of an experience, I can

have learned if I hadn’t gone to

past five summers in Moshi,

– just painted on chalkboards

I assessed the kids to my best

travels do. During the year,

around me. It is easy in America

tell an entire story based on

that place five years ago”

Tanzania, where she worked

and a few desks for the thirty

ability and created files for the

Dani works as a teacher back

to get caught up in materials

the picture of what happened,

in different schools with a vol-

students to share. None of the

next volunteer who was going

home in California to raise

and in money and day-to-day

who was there, why it was

yourself, you’ll realize that the

prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-

unteer teaching organization

children spoke English. The

to join a few months after.”

money for school, food and

things. They remind me what

happening, how I felt, how it

world is an interesting place

mindedness, and many of our

named Cross Cultural Solutions.

head teacher spoke a little

clothing for the orphanage

is important and keep me level

smelled, etc.” Dani says, “It

that has a lot to offer. Like

people need it sorely on these

“They place you in different

English. He came up to me

preschool class. Preschool is

that her nonprofit supports at

and grounded. They teach me

brings me back to that mo-

most things you’ll encounter in

accounts. Broad, wholesome,

private schools and help intro-

the first day and said, ‘Okay

very different than it is here

the Bahath Centre in Tanzania

the importance of life and give

ment immediately.”

life, there’s more to travel-

charitable views of men and

duce you to the culture. Imme-

teacher, teach.’”

in the States. Here we have

(Bahath Centre means “Lucky

me a reason to be alive.”

play-based preschools where

Center” in Swahili). And while

children learn through socializa-

these kids in Tanzania are

diately, I fell in love.” Dani says of the enlightening experience,

Having no teaching experience, Dani quickly learned the

“I had forty students in my

Dani Bayer is also a talented photographer who believes

No matter where you find

As American author and humorist, Mark Twain, once said, “Travel is fatal to

ing than meets the eye. The

things cannot be acquired by

to travel. I can go a million

plane ride, the transportation,

vegetating in one little corner

years living in the same place

room and board, dining or

of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

“Learning is the best reason

45

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

NUBIA ABE

44

Plastic Dreams

GUI MOHALLEM

Pictured here, “Welcome Home” (2011), by Brazilian artist Gui Mohallem: the image is also present on the book about his experiences at Beltane festival; Opposite page: Brazilian performer Ágatha Barbosa, who experienced an epiphany at the party Trackers, in Sao Paulo, Brazil

The rite recreates myths, brings the creating heroes into the present, remakes the ancestors’ trajectory, explains everything, points out life’s direction, brings heaven and earth closer to each other. Every word, every sound is magical and creative. It has the power to transcend time, to transform the world. The sound of singing comes from immemorial times, from the creation of all things.

Angela M. Pappiani

FOR SOME PEACE IN OUR TRIBE

Text Suzy Capó

Some people will only

nect people and provide a

start their day after drink-

sense of accomplishment

ing coffee and reading the

by referring to practices and

paper. Girls learn very early

ancestral rituals found in all

on that they should wash,

societies, religions and cul-

tone and moisturize their

tures. “Whenever an act or

skin every night before bed.

everyday gesture is imbued

Some friends gather on

with a certain amount of im-

Sunday afternoons to watch

portance – whether spiritual

the soccer game. Others

or not – it can be considered

meet religiously on the 29th

a rite,” says anthropologist

of every month, to eat the

Iara Pietricovsky. With Indig-

“lucky gnocchi”.

enous and Jewish ancestry,

Such habits are life organizers, as they con-

Iara says she makes the sign of the cross every time she

46

enters a plane. “By doing that, I wear a cloak of protection,” she explains.

The fact is that rites are of great importance

47

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: GETTYIMAGES

Plastic Dreams

for both individuals and communities, even while many Westerners living in urban centers may see the globalized world as devoid of roots, and traditions as devoid of meaning. “Rituals today are meaningless,” reflects photographer Gui Mohallem, whose experience with the Celtic Beltane ritual, which is celebrated by a community in an outdoor sanctuary in the American Southeast, was deeply transformational.

Mohallen took part three times in the Beltane – in which fertility and the arrival of spring are celebrated with dances around campfires – but he refuses to describe it, just as he has no photographic records of the ritual itself.

“It’s a matter of respect for the sacred,” he explains.

However, the title of his photo book about the

“RITUALS ARE REPETITIVE ACTS... IN WHICH BELIEFS, COMMITMENTS AND IDENTITIES ARE REAFFIRMED, THUS CONSTANTLY REINFORCING ONE’S CONNECTION TO ANY RELIGION, CULTURE OR SOCIETY”, IARA PIETRICOVSKY, ANTHROPOLOGIST

experience – “Welcome Home” – says a lot about its quality. “Only after building up this feeling of belonging to a family with whom I have no blood ties, I had the courage to go to Lebanon, my parents’ birthplace, to understand my original myths,” he says.

The feeling of belonging

Opposite page: the symbolic Hanukkah candles, from the religious jewish celebration. On this page, a native american indian

which beliefs, commitments

sion ceremony of babies born

and identities are reaffirmed,

to a Jewish mother) and the

concept, because it is univer-

thus constantly reinforc-

Shabbat festivities (day of

sal. Everyone has the right to

ing one’s connection to any

rest in Judaism) transcend

rest, whether you are God, a

religion, culture or society,”

their religious significance.

mother, a professional, etc.”

says Iara.

They are Jewish culture ele-

The Shabbat rituals, which

ments that connect them to

begin as soon as the first star

even while spread worldwide

their ancestors, uniting them

appears on Friday, include

due to the Diaspora, have

as a people.

candles, a prepared dinner

The Jews, for example,

of humanity. “It’s a very nice

with family and/or friends,

is crucial for understand-

preserved their identity as an

ing the rites’ significance,

ethnic group by the tradi-

the seventh day of creation,

wine, prayers and songs

especially the collective

tions, symbols and rituals

in which God rested,” explains

performed during dinner on

ones. “Rituals are repetitive

originated in the Jewish

Rabbi Debora Grinberg, from

Friday or at the synagogue on

acts imbued with values

religion. Even for secular

the Shalom Community in

Saturday morning.

and procedures that are ac-

Jews – or non-religious – rites

São Paulo. According to her,

Rituals also preserve the

cepted by certain groups, in

as the Brit Milah (circumci-

it was the first acquired right

myths and traditions of indig-

“The Shabbat is related to

49

VIVI BACCO

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

ARIEL MARTINI / I HATE FLASH

48

Plastic Dreams

enous peoples. Moreover,

director of Ikorê (ikore.com.

they are part of their lives.

br), daughter of a Krenak

Today, there are more than

native and a white woman.

200 ethnic groups inhabit-

“So all the activities of hunt-

ing Brazil, each with its own

ing, fishing and gathering

5-mile-long pilgrimage to the Church

culture involving many ritu-

food, for example, must be

of the greatest assets of Brazilian cul-

of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. The

als that take place through

prearranged through ritual

ture and major popular demonstra-

procession is led by typically dressed

song, dance, prayers, body

so that there is no violence

tions in Brazil. This is the case of the

baianas – with turbans, starched

paint, manufactured goods,

involved and so that they

Washing of the Stairs at the Church of

skirts, bracelets and necklaces – who

among other techniques and

may happen harmoniously.”

Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, in Salvador,

carry pots with perfumed water. They

the second most popular holiday

are followed by the Filhos de Gandhi

in Bahia after Carnival, and one of

group and by a crowd of worshipers.

Brazil’s greatest examples of the

They are all dressed in white, the

phenomenon of fusion of religions

color of Oxalá, the Yoruba God syn-

known as syncretism.

cretized with Our Lord of Bonfim.

“OXALÁ” The African-Brazilian rites are one

The ritual is performed yearly on

After just over an hour, the pro-

Above, music is a key element to the Afro-Brazilian rituals and its followers, who come together for one of the largest popular manifestations in the country. Opposite page: an image from VOODOOSTOCK, one of the many itinerary parties which renewed São Paulo’s club scene

procedures used to connect

Alison explains that na-

them with the spirits within

tive people have within

nature and the world.

themselves the responsibil-

In addition to the rites

ity of maintaining nature’s

of initiation and passage,

balance. Among the rites

for both individuals and

for this purpose there is

groups, Indigenous daily life

the singing meant to keep

the second Thursday of January at

cession reaches the staircase, which

is characterized by the me-

the sky suspended, which

Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, founded

is already swarming with spectators.

diation – expressed through

is practiced by different

in 1754. The church was built in

Originally, the interior of the church

ceremonies – between the

communities, in differ-

order to house a wooden replica of

was washed, but today water is

social world and the cosmos,

ent periods and forms.”

a Christ statue, brought to Brazil by a

ritually poured out outdoors, in a

between the natural and su-

The Guarani, for example,

Portuguese devotee, which gathered

symbolic gesture of purification. The

pernatural universe. “We are

perform it daily. They know

thousands of people. The celebration

baianas pour the perfumed water

part of a whole, there is no

that the white man will not

begins at 10 A.M.; when participants

and lay flowers over the staircase’s

hierarchy between beings

perform it, and that this

are congregated in front of the Chur-

steps, while they sing the anthem of

– humans, animals, plants

kind of balance is extremely

ch of Conceição da Praia to start a

Our Lord of Bonfim.

– living on this plane,”

important. Therefore, the

explains Maira Lacerda,

rituals are necessary.”

50

51

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

2 GETTYIMAGES

GETTYIMAGES

1

INDIE MOCKERY A forerunner of this musical liberation, American producer Diplo is a creator of bridges between the musical culture of the suburbs and the mainstream, being

THEY’RE TAKING OVER

responsible for promoting

In South Africa, another

the funk carioca outside

exponent of cultural re-

Brazil. He also was the driv-

demption in the peripheral

ing force behind the star-

lifestyle has been gaining

dom of rapper M.I.A., his

global recognition: Die

ex-girlfriend, drawing the

Antwoord, a rap-rave group

attention of the demanding

from Cape Town created by

indie audiences for new

Ninja, Yo-Landi Vi$$er and

sound blends and standing

DJ Hi-Tek.

for the popularization of If everything is confirmed, nearly 80% of Earth’s population will be living

A NATION UNIFIED BY SOUNDS REAL-LIFE STYLE INSPIRES THE BEST OF MUSIC AND RHYTHMS AROUND THE GLOBE.

Text Jackson Araujo

In Afrikaans – dialect

peripheral music redone in

spoken in South Africa

sliced beats.

and Namibia – the group’s

On stage and in her art-

name means “The An-

in urban centers in 2050,

work, website and music

swer”. They also sing in

according to the United Na-

videos, M.I.A. uses the

Xhosa (another language

tions. If we apply the most

ethnic overlapping as

from their country) and

conservative estimates to

a Babelic scenery of the

English, always making

the current demographic

3rd Millennium. In the

use of provocation and

trends, human population

lyrics of “Matangi” (2013),

self-irony in their lyrics and

will have increased by about

leading track of the same

bizarrely-cast videos. In the

three billion people and the

name, she creates political

sensuous video for “Evil

3 Cover from the album “Free the Universe” (2013),

world will be a gigantic city,

rhymes with the names

Boy”, Diplo appears behind

definitely incorporating a

of countries.

the pickups and as a sex

by Major Lazer, a project by Diplo in partnership with Switch, a major mashup of afrobeats, hip hop, reggae, dub and moombahton

suburban lifestyle.

Meanwhile, Diplo rocks

slave for Yo-Landi, a baby-

out with project Major

voiced rapper mad about

meanwhile, seeks artists

Lazer, a collab with DJ and

rats. Yo-Landi and Ninja’s

outside major centers as an

producer Switch, which

freakish looks illustrate

effective strategy for aes-

offers a great mashup of

Alexander Wang’s video for

thetic refreshment, finding

afrobeats, hip hop, reggae,

his 2012 Summer collec-

novelty in the healthy

dub and moombahton.

tion, with “Fatty Boom

The music industry,

cultural hybridization that

In the tribal catharsis of

1 Musicians Ninja and Yo-Landi Vi$$er, from band

Die Antwoord open for M.I.A. in Manchester 2 The incomparable M.I.A. plays at Fun Fun Fun

festival, in Austin, Texas

Boom” as a soundtrack,

encourages genre cross-

“Free The Universe” (2013),

mocking money and

over and mixing styles,

Major Lazer’s guests are not

success. With two al-

seeing the world as a new

usually related to the world

bums – “$O$” (2009) and

nation where languages

of hip hop’n’reggae: Alexis

“Ten$ion” (2012) – they

that were once exotic now

Taylor (Hot Chip), Amber

brought their dirty laundry

provide an outline for the

Coffman (Dirty Projects),

to the Coachella and SXSW

spirit of transformation

Ezra Koenig (Vampire Week-

festivals, supporting M.I.A.

through music.

end), and Frenchie La Roux.

We’re taking over.

3 REPRODUCTION

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Plastic Dreams

53 KRIS KRUG

5

AFTER M.I.A. Two girls are following M.I.A.’s footsteps and also sparkling with attitude: British Ebony Bones and American Santigold.

Ebony joins her punk at-

SCANDINAVIA MEETS AFRICA

titude to tribal roots in the

Art never presupposes

The fashion world fell for

geographical boundar-

her after the soundtrack of

ies and now hot rhythms

YSL’s “Manifesto” campaign

4 The trio Pearl Negras, from Vidigal

are beginning to have an

(2009). Her new album,

(RJ, Brazil), new stars of funk-trap that are already attracting the international media 5 Ebony Bones, from Britain, who recorded her most recent album in India 6 Amadou & Mariam, a blind couple from Mali, brought together Ebony Bones and Santigold (7) in their latest album 8 Swedish band Goat and their afrobeats, “World Music” without geographical boundaries

Caribbean, India and Africa.

“Behold A Pale Horse”

influence on the music from colder lands. That’s

PEARLS FROM VIDIGAL

the case of Swedish band

In Brazil, the youngest and

Goat, which debuted with

most promising new funk-

the album “World Music”

trap stars are cariocas Alice

(2012) and its mix of funk,

Coelho, Mariana Feitosa and

ers appeared on “Fo-

kraut-rock and afrobeats.

Jennifer Loiola, the Pearls

lila” (2012), an album by

Goat is pancultural and

Negras trio, which quickly

Amadou & Mariam, the

(2013), recorded in India, 4

features the Mumbai Sym-

CÁSSIA TABATINI

phony Orchestra.

The committed sing-

polyrhythmic, hypnotic

hit over 100,000 views of

with a surprising voodoo-

the debut video “Pensando

like connection for a band

em Você” (Thinking of You),

from the minuscule Korpi-

being quoted as “Brazil’s

lombo village in Northeast-

hottest new rap girlgang”

Passionate about Fela

ern Sweden, which adopts

on the website of British

Kuti, reggae and Nigerian

the psychedelic trance of its

magazine “Dazed”.

music, Santigold is respected

regional music.

7 REPRODUCTION

blind couple from Mali who has been singing for 30 years in favor of the world’s 8 peripheral cultures.

6

They sing the daily life

by Kanye West, Jay-Z, Björk,

Onstage, East and West

of the community where

M.I.A. and the Beastie Boys,

come together in a mystic

they were born and live,

with whom she recorded

ritual with masks and

after meeting each other

“Don’t Play No Game That I

folkloric cloaks to enhance

in the “Nós do Morro”

Can’t Win”, based on ragga

the mysterious and exotic

theater group, and eventu-

and moombathon.

aura underneath the sound

ally signing a contract

of guitars, basses, tablas,

with the British Bolabo

sic wants no genre defini-

organ and tribal drums.

Records. Their schedule

tions, but rather the prolific

It’s Scandinavian folk with

now includes concerts in

linguistic and acoustic blend

African-rooted funk. Un-

Portugal, Paris, Madrid and

that reflects the chaotic

precedented acid-folk.

the United Kingdom.

The nation united by mu-

poetry of global diversity.

REPRODUCTION

MIKE GUALDONI

54

Plastic Dreams

HUMMING FIELDS

55

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

EVERYBODY DOES

HURRY KANE

CHIRP Loudpvck

BRAND NEW WAYO

Straight from the tribe

Colleen

Brooke Candy

Bass ill Euro

migre.me/hCMn4

Mixed Grill

migre.me/hCGge

migre.me/hCLje

migre.me/hCM7x

“Loudpvck”, by producers

migre.me/hCMzG

Colleen is an artist whose

Brooke Candy is a singer

Bass Ill Euro is a collective

Kenny Beats and Ryan

A delicious African funk

music refers to the power

who looks like a cyberpunk

formed by DJ Schowi and

Marks, respectively from

from the “Mixed Grill”

of nature, transcribing in

pin-up. In “Everybody

DJ Passion, both DJs and

Los Angeles and New York,

compilation, which features

electronic what sounds like

Does” she performs a

producers from Berlin

is one of the forerunners

several rare songs of

an Indonesian gamelan.

strange and wild dance

and Stuttgart, Germany.

of the music genre called

Nigerian funk, boogie &

to an Arab-influenced

This remix explore an

Trap. In “Chirp”, they

soul artists.

(and from the globe)

dancehall pop. Some even

obscure classic South

open the doors to their

Kawa Jaipur Brass Band

say she’s like the Barbarella

American song in a tropical

dungeon and bring out

migre.me/hCHiW

of our generation. We’re

moombahton.

sounds straight from the

HUMEDAD (DJs PAREJA REMIX) MKRNI

Give room for the

not sure if Jane Fonda

underground.

migre.me/hCMC2

trumpets, trombones and

herself would make this

clarinets! Indian group

comparison with a rapper/

migre.me/hCMbN

Jaipur Kawa Brass Band

former stripper with pink

Souleance is a French duo

migre.me/hCMrY

that was recently remixed

opens the bronze road

pigtails and covered by

famous for its 80s-based,

4D is a German Synth/New

by the Argentinean DJs

to the Rajasthan, mixing

mini-chameleons.

house-flavored banging

Wave band from the 80s.

from Pareja. MKRNI has a

tracks. They have recently

The band is a project by

sense of color, lightness

WATCH OUT FOR THIS (BUMAYE) Major Lazer

released the excellent

Franz Aumüller and Dieter

and sensuality deeply

track “Mais Um”, which

Kolb, of Wunderwerke.

rooted in psychedelia.

migre.me/hCLSS

combines a mysterious

With the exception of the

Humedad (literally

QUIMEY NEUQUEN (CHANCHA VIA CIRCUITO REMIX) Jose Larralde

Major Lazer is a musical

samba sample with a

vocals, all instruments are

“humidity”) is a sonic ode

project founded in 2008 by

groovy hip-hop beat.

100% digital. “Sexappeal”

to the Hispanic steam,

is a perfect tropical new

with sensuous lyrics and a

migre.me/hCLaN

and it excels in dance music

wave track.

crazy variety of instruments

Chancha Via Circuito

as one of the most unique

migre.me/hCMi9

explores Latin American

projects in the current

Following the current

rhythms, including Mexican

EDM movement. “Watch

trend of electronic music

Asian Dub Foundation

strangeness – that combine

folklore, Colombian and

Out For This (Bumaye)”

“Made in Brazil”, producer

migre.me/hCMuJ

in an eletrofunky mass.

Peruvian cumbia, and

is an explosive dancehall

Omulu presents the

Asian Dub Foundation is a

Argentinean cumbia villera.

made in collaboration with

excellent raggafunk track

British band of electronic

His music bubbles from

Jamaican MCs Busy Signal,

“Patrão”, which sounds like

music, which develops

Brian Briggs

the Andes like percussive

The Flexican and FS Green.

a mixture of afoxé, funk

a mix of rapcore, dub,

migre.me/hCMFa

carioca and hip hop.

dancehall and ragga. In

Brian Briggs, John

“Journey”, they put us in

Holbrook’s alter ego,

tune with the Motherland.

is a respected sound

GET READY TO LOSE YOURSELF IN RHYTHM, DANCE AND TRADITION THAT UNITE GENERATIONS AROUND THE PLANET, IN AN EXCLUSIVE SETLIST MADE BY TOP BRAZILIAN DJ AD FERRERA FOR PLASTIC DREAMS.

PIYA TU AB TO AAJA

traditional Indian folk music with love songs from

Setlist Ad Ferrera Ilustration Thiago Batista

beyond Bollywood.

producers Diplo and Switch,

lava, seething layers of drums as water and earth battling heat.

MAIS UM Souleance

HERMETICO Balkan Beat Box

PATRÃO Omulu

MKRNI (reads “Macaroni”)

SEXAPPEAL 4D

– bongos, whistles,

JOURNEY

guitars, beats and tribal

AEO (Parts 1 & 2)

engineer who worked in

migre.me/hCM4G With his group of

is a project from Santiago

MWENDWA The

several London studios.

musicians, Israeli Ori Kaplan

Famous Nyahururu Boys

In his classic new wave

and Tamir Muskat of Balkan

migre.me/hCMx7

track “Brian Damage”

Beat Box play music of

A sweet duet of the

(1980), he merges the

Mediterranean influence,

Famous Nyahururu Boys,

rock & roll tradition with

incorporating the traditions

an ancient band of

many different popular

of Eastern Europe, the

Ethiopia. Sung in Kikuyu,

music styles of that time,

Middle East and New York’s

“Mwendwa” is a love song.

including the rockabilly

electronic music scene.

revival, synth-based new wave and instrumental surf music, all together – Music.

“Computer Incarnations for World Peace”.

.

PHOTOS: GETTYIMAGES

3

1

1 Nepal’s flag, the only one until today that does not have a retangular shape 2 Flags from the International Maritime Code 3 The tradition flags at Glastonbury music festival (2013) 4 A visitor reads a message in one of the flags at the British festival:

SYMBOLS IN FABRIC Just as the way you dress

“What planet are you from?”

Their origins are lost in

In the Middle Ages, as

Thus began standards

reflects your personal arche-

immemorial times. It’s im-

the world was being divid-

and protocols: flags should

which stood for a letter de-

Then we had signal flags,

another, this language’s

From a raised banner to

that the Glastonbury Fes-

Marcos Valle made a slang

types, flags are also trying

possible to specify where

ed into citadels, flags were

be rectangular and include

pending on their position.

evolution has expanded its

tival, the most important

popular in the 70s: dar

to “single out” something.

the first flag came from,

a metaphor for coexistence.

symbols, they must be

Militarization increased

use from traffic to sports,

musical event in the U.K.,

bandeira (literally, “to give

Nation, region, ideology,

because it is something

Each group had its piece

honored and remain in

their importance for provid-

from religious ceremonies

has kept the tradition of

flag”, but meaning “to

cause, warning, conquer,

made of fabric. Ancient

of land, with the hoisted

sight, etc. Nepal has the

ing signaling, information,

to popular celebrations,

festive gatherings since

reveal something”, “to give

territory, alert. No flag is

battles already sported

flag as a warning sign: this

only national flag out of

requests, and greetings.

from charitable campaigns

King Arthur’s time. Hun-

a glimpse of something”)

simple. Flags manifest al-

flags in the combat ranks.

place has an owner, yes

the rectangular pattern.

There are flags of attack,

to mourning moments. No

dreds of flags and pennants

was part of the lyrics in his

legories, languages​​, associa-

In Rome, they were as-

sir. Flags pointed out the

Banners with Christian

rendering, rescue, victory,

country would be recog-

hover above the audience.

song Que Bandeira (“What

tions, and symbologies.

sociated with fear and

bright horizon of verbs “to

crosses dominated the

disease. And what about

nized without a flag. The

With one difference: the

a Flag” / “What a Surprise).

power. This representation

move forward”, “to win”,

Saxon world and Scandina-

the black flag with the skull

flag became one’s love for

public now carries flags so

The chorus is good: Que

has spread out along with

and “to conquer”.

Around these parts,

via. In the East, they were

and two crossed bones

the region in which one’s

that they will be seen on

bandeira que você deu

humanity over the world

either minimal or Taoists

threatening the oceans?

born, the team that one’s

TV broadcasts!

/ Que bandeira não me

map. Flags represented the

and in the Americas, they

Why do their colors have

supports and so on.

seal. The annunciation.

became full of details and

meanings? And why do

chorar / Caretice tua brigar

figurative adornments – as

so many flags have stars?

(“That flag you gave / that

entendeu / Caretice tua

is the case with the Brazil-

flag does not understand

ian flag, which bears the

me / so juvenile, you

national motto of “order

crying / so juvenile, you

and progress” stamped

arguing”. That’s right: white flag for you, my dear!

over the blue starry sky.

4

2

It was funny to find out

Text Eduardo Logullo

58

Plastic Dreams

59

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

MELISSA NATION AT SÃO PAULO FASHION WEEK THE BRAND’S FIRST CATWALK SHOW CONSOLIDATED ITS GLOBAL DNA.

Text Duda Porto de Souza Photos Marcia Fasoli & Ale Schneider

Melissa’s social media exploded

set the tone of what was about to

present its first fashion show at the

happen. The dark room was heated by

SPFW Winter 2014. The occasion also

a version of the Refraction bag, which

marked the launch of the Melissa Na-

glows in the dark, each placed on one

tion collection, which immersed the

of the guests’ chairs, and by a catwalk

audience into its universe: a mix of

assembled by colorful blocks in various

aesthetic references from several coun-

sizes. Melissa Nation’s logo was in the

tries, such as China, Japan, Mongolia,

background. The lighting design was

Mexico, Peru, Brazil, Africa, India and

done by Maneco Quinderé, famous for

Tibet, just to name a few.

lighting the best fashion shows and

“It was a collaborative process from

also award-winning plays. “The runway

beginning to end,” says Dani Ueda, one

was stunning, a work of art. I met the

of the market’s most important design-

family back when they did the very first

ers, who was responsible for the styling

sandal. I used to visit the factory back

with fashion editor Pedro Salles, his col-

then. For me it’s simply wonderful to

league at the “Vogue” magazine. “We

see how long they have gone,” said

tried to work with elements that could

businesswoman and fashion consultant

be easily identified by the audience, but

Costanza Pascolato.

at the same time we wanted to subvert

MELISSA VIRTUE SPECIAL

MELISSA MAGDA + JASON WU

The atmosphere of Parque Villa Lobos

when the brand announced it would

“We made it the opposite way,” Dani

their literalness. All together now, just

explains. “Instead of preparing clean

as Melissa Nation, which knows no

looks that would allow people to focus on

boundaries,” said Erika Palomino, direc-

the shoes, we’ve developed a large ethnic

tor and also responsible for the design

and camouflaged composition to translate

and overall concept.

the Nation theme”.

The amazing wigs worn by the models

The show’s casting was also striking: at

came from New York and were prepared by

first, more than a hundred models of the

hair stylist Sylvio Giorgio. The make-up was

most important agencies were selected

done by Robert Estevão, who drew inspira-

because they all wanted to take part!

tion from Melissa itself: he used its colors,

The final choices were made at Galeria

textures and technological innovations to

Melissa, just as the new collection of prod-

delineate the show. One of the successful

ucts arrived. Among the top models were

highlights was the colored glitter on the

Fabi Mayer, Bruna Tenório and Débora

models’ lips.

Müller. Rounding out the team, Wan Vieira

Dani and Pedro invited designers and brands to work within different profiles: Yon Hee Lee, Luis Claudio, Vitor Zerbinato, Print-

The live presentation of Brazilian band Orquestra Voadora, playing tunes from different parts of the world during the entire show

became the show’s director, and Jacimar Silva became the production director.

There was no better choice to connect

ing, Letage and Rober Dognani. Designer

this medley of references other than the

Claudia Savelli took care of accessories,

soundtrack created by Rio de Janeiro’s

picking objects from the household and

brass band Orquestra Voadora, performed

even from building material stores! “Bring-

live. Fourteen musicians and their trum-

ing India and Japan together in the same

pets, trombones, saxophones, tuba and

look, for example, has become an exercise

percussion mixed up from Tim Maia to

in harmony,” the stylists said. “We expected

Manu Dibango, from the United States to

it to be fun, just like Melissa,” said journalist

Eastern Europe. “Our eclectic and global

Lilian Pacce. And this desire was confirmed

set list resulted in a perfect partnership,”

as she told us herself after the event.

says trumpeter Thiago Rodrigues.

MELISSA FLIP

MELISSA CAMPANA FITAS

MELISSA MAGDA + JASON WU A fan of Melissa and Brazilian creativ-

It was a show with a capital “S”. I think

ter created by a British post-pop artist

that’s super important,” reported “Vogue”

that’s more than 6’ 11” tall and dressed

magazine editor Daniela Falcão. Iconic

head to toe in latex – came to Brazil

singer Gaby Amarantos was among the

especially to watch the show, front row.

celebrities on the front row: “It has a lot

Pandemonia made her look even better

to do with Gaby and with Brazil. I think

with Vivienne Westwood Anglomania

we really connect and I’m really a fan of

+ Melissa Slave Sandal. “It was just

this Brazilian side of Melissa,” she said.

amazing to see a global palette of colors

“This is our tribute to all peoples. We

and fabrics representing all nationalities

created a Melissa nation without a face,

in the world. Melissa’s shoes cater all

but which represents all places where

types of consumers,” Pandemonia told

Melissa has ever been to,” explains Ra-

PLASTIC DREAMS. Needless to say, she

chel Scherer, Melissa’s Business Manager.

was photographed and interviewed the

In this interconnected world, Melissa’s

whole time along the corridors of São

first fashion show at SPFW connected

Paulo Fashion Week.

fashion, music and democratic design,

with a very strong commercial appeal

MELISSA IT

fashion statement with a mass product.

ity, Pandemonia – a conceptual charac-

“We’re in a moment in which brands

MELISSA BLACK TIE + KARL LAGERFELD

MELISSA SOLDIER

bringing the brand’s fans even closer.

Now the news that everyone has been

are beginning to show their fashionable

waiting for: we will have Melissa’s second

side. Melissa is very strong in making a

fashion show at the SPFW Summer 2015!

MELISSA LADY DRAGON

65

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Céline

Alexander McQueen

IT’S ALL ABOUT TRAVELING

Givenchy

64

Plastic Dreams

MOVING IN SPACE AND EVEN IN TIME, CREATORS RESEARCH THE WORLD DISCOVERING, EXPLORING AND MIXING DIVERSE CULTURES AND FOLKLORES ONLY TO REINVENT FASHION. THIS SEASON, ALL THINGS ETHNIC ARE TRENDY.

Text Sergio Amaral Photos Marcio Madeira

while he was ahead of Dior between

graphic prints of the first two, and the

you, everybody and even fashion.

the late 90s and the first decade of

modeling of some of Missoni dresses,

In this land of creation, rather than

2000. Ethnic groups, folklore, foreign

alluding to a kind of tribal costume.

a pleasure, travel is almost a neces-

cultures and traveling are recurring

In Paris, the last and most antici-

sity. To find out what’s new, to leave

and invigorating themes in fashion,

pated stop of this fashion tour, there

the comfort zone, to unravel other

just like in real life.

were also African touches, mixed with

Who doesn’t love to travel? Me,

And this happens to this day. The

Celtic and Amazonian culture. It could

international Summer 2014 season

be spotted in the Alexander McQueen

is here to prove it, with some of the

collection, designed by Sarah Burton,

mid-60s, when Yves Saint Laurent –

most influential and imitated Planet

as well as in Céline by Phoebe Philo,

Algerian designer who made ​​his name

Fashion brands taking the same road.

which also recalled a kind of primal/

cultures, to reach out for different references, anyway, to be inspired.

It has been so nice since the

Pucci

Missoni

Marc Jacobs

in Paris, laid the foundations of prêt-

Starting with Marc Jacobs in New

ethnic patterning.

à-porter, and brought pants, tuxedos

York, who used all his mileage to

and other menswear elements to the

travel not only geographically (to a

tural clash between Africa and Japan,

women’s wardrobe – started present-

dystopian Hawaii perhaps), but also

Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci showed how

ing collections inspired in Morocco, Af-

in time, referencing clothes from the

many pleats you need for a drape.

rica and Russia... Yes, Paris could even

1890s to create a unique Summer

And several were applied, in the

seem like the center of the world, but

2014, with virtually none of the cli-

most diverse and ingenious ways, on

there was still a lot of territory fashion

chés usually associated with the year’s

dresses that seemed wrapped around

could explore.

hottest season.

the models’ bodies and defied even

There was more. Suggesting a cul-

the experts’ eyes.

And many other designers have

In the Milan season, those founda-

been imbued with such daring spirit,

tions were reinforced by Pucci and Mis-

Regional, global, universal or

looking mainly to Japan, China and

soni, who presented indigenous, Latin-

supranational, that flight has taken

India. It was, for example, something

American and African references in

off. And it seems it won’t be landing

that John Galliano did masterfully

their collections – the embroidery and

anytime soon.

BANZAI

66

67

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Opposite page: Kansai’s historical creation for the Alladin Sane tour, Bowie’s sixth album. On this page, the atmosphere of his many “theatrical” presentations

KANSAI

THE JAPANESE DESIGNER WHO CREATED OUTFITS FOR DAVID BOWIE AND GAVE MARC JACOBS HIS FIRST JOB IN FASHION, KANSAI YAMAMOTO TURNS 70, INSPIRING NEW GENERATIONS WITH HIS FLAMBOYANT AND ENERGETIC WORK.

MASAYOSHI SUKITA

Plastic Dreams

Text Sergio Amaral Photos Courtesy Victoria & Albert Museum

Immortalizing a look

and 80s using a strong pop

in the fashion imagery

appeal, vibrant colors, large

is no simple task. Yves

shapes and bold print-

Saint Laurent did it with

ing, evoking a mixture of

the Mondrian dress, for

cartoon with Japanese and

example. Jean Paul Gaultier

futuristic features. His work

did it with Madonna and

captivated none other than

the cone corset. Kansai

David Bowie, the artist and

Yamamoto, a not so big

idol that knows how to

name in pop culture but

reinvent himself like few,

equally celebrated in

unfolding in several perso-

fashion, is also part of this

nas with each new album

select pantheon.

and/or tour.

One of the main stylists

Initially, Kansai signed

from the Japanese avant-

some of the outfits worn

garde (before Comme des

by Bowie in his famous

Garçons), he made his

Ziggy Stardust Tour, back

name between the 70s

in 1973. For the next tour,

Plastic Dreams

Kansai Yamamoto was the first Japanese designer to show a fashion collection in England.

The invite from the V&A Museum came after many of his creations were highlighted at the David Bowie exhibition

68

69

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Aladdin Sane, he created

the red spiked hair and

mythological return, as the

music, dance, performance

the singer’s entire ward-

the futuristic costumes

designer first entered the

and fun, preferably with

robe, including some pieces

designed by Kansai Yama-

fashion world in London,

audiences and magnificent

that would become part

moto turned Bowie into

back in the early 70s.

locations, such as Moscow’s

of the iconography for the

an alien rock messiah,” as

As he turns 70 in 2014,

musician, for rock and for

per an entry in the catalog

he’s still inspiring a lot of

stadium in New Delhi and

fashion, such as an asym-

of the “David Bowie Is”

greatly talented and pow-

the Tokyo Dome.

metric knitted body and an

exhibition assembled by

erful people – like Marc

And he’s still steady,

absurd vinyl stitched jump-

London’s Victoria & Albert

Jacobs, who had his first

strong and active, as he

suit. That’s not an easy task,

Museum in 2013, also

job in fashion with Kansai

proved to the V&A Muse-

as image, makeup, hair and

displayed at São Paulo’s

and who was inspired

um’s audience at the end of

styling in Bowie’s art are as

Museu da Imagem e do

by his work to create the

2013, in a performance full

important as his music (if

Som (“Museum of Image

Louis Vuitton Summer

of energy which translated

not more important).

and Sound”).

2011 collection.

a simple Japanese word:

Camille Paglia, the con-

The British institution also

Averse to conven-

Red Square, the Nehru

basara. “It’s about dressing

troversial and respected

promoted a presentation

tional parades since the

freely, in an extravagant,

American writer and es-

with the Japanese stylist’s

beginning of his career,

stylish, colorful and exuber-

sayist, says it better: “Zig-

newest collection at the

the Japanese prefers the

ant way. This is at the heart

gy’s extravagant makeup,

end of last year. An almost

huge shows, featuring

of my design,” he says.

70

71

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

AGÊNCIA FOTOSITE

AGÊNCIA FOTOSITE

MARCIO MADEIRA

Trends

AGÊNCIA FOTOSITE

Plastic Dreams

brushstrokes and sculptural accessories. And Céline’s creative director Phoebe Philo’s daring move was to break the aesthetic purity that gave fame to the brand, with motifs based on street art and Keith Haring.

Céline’s huge prints and large proportions also alluded to an evolution of minimalism, which had been focusing on cleaner

Céline

looks in past seasons.

Shapes are still simple, based on a rational design

MARCIO MADEIRA

but now with decorative elements. Shiny rhinestones, fringes, ruffles and pleats are used sparingly, without impairing the essential qualities of this practical, laid-back and comfortable Summer collection.

These features explain the huge influence of sportswear in this Summer.

Pucci

Junya Watanabe

The modeling, fabric, and especially the functionality and comfort of the clothes used in various situations were a highlight in some

Prada

Chanel

major collections. Such

#SELFIE SEASON YOUR PERSONAL INTERPRETATION TO DESIGNER’S CREATIONS HAS NEVER BEEN SUCH A KEY ELEMENT FOR YOU TO TRULY SHINE WHEREVER YOU GO!

As the Summer 2014 col-

the other, the desire for free

Junya Watanabe mention-

as Victoria Beckham and

lections start to be unveiled,

creative expression is taking

ing North American native

Louise Goldin, with pleated

they reinforce the impor-

elements from the visual

cultures, and Givenchy’s

skirts straight from tennis

tance of individuality in

arts to the catwalk.

Riccardo Tisci imagining a

courts; Prada, with tubular

fusion of Africa and Japan.

soccer socks and jersey

fashion. In this season, the

Text Luigi Torre

In New York, the first

most important looks are

step of the “fashion

not on the catwalk, but on

month”, the notion of

one of those responsible

of surfing, racing and BMX;

your everyday life. It’s much

tribe appeared with Marc

for bringing together the

and Gucci, with a disco-

more about style, and the

Jacobs’ clubber-Victorian-

worlds of art and fashion.

glam basketball.

elements of this season’s

slippers, The Row’s overlaps

Inspired by Diego Rivera’s

trends are open to free

and fringes and Rodarte’s

murals, she invited four

this season are defined by

interpretation, and all in

gangsters. In Milan, Miuccia

illustrators to create prints

the desire for comfort and

service of your personality.

Prada added headdresses

of female faces that were

functionality: the luxurious

This revived search for in-

to her athlete girls and

a collection highlight. In

T-shirt (in fine fabrics),

dividuality feeds two major

Pucci’s creative director

Paris, Karl Lagerfeld turned

the bomber jacket, the

current issues. On one hand,

Peter Dundas used African

the Grand Palais into an art

male shirt in several inter-

the need of individual asser-

motifs to refer to the 80s

gallery to present Chanel’s

pretations and the pair of

tion is bringing the concept

hip-hop trend. The subject

Summer 2014 collection –

jeans (with top finishing

of tribes back in fashion. On

went on to Paris with

with prints that resembled

and processing).

Miuccia Prada was also

dresses; Pucci, with a mix

The key elements for

Plastic Dreams

72

Trends

73

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

As soon as temperatures start rising, everybody starts wishing for a hint of sensuality in their looks. But that’s also not

of the Spring/Summer 2014 season is eager to interact with women’s emotions and how they

Dolce & Gabbana

not, playful. The beauty

Roccobarocco

relaxed, fun and, why

Marc by Marc Jacobs

enough: they have to be

intend to show themselves during the year’s most desired season. How does this happen? Mixing colors, textures and lots of sophistication. Of course, everything should be well thought and steeped in common sense! “We’ll lips during the spring, and the nuance will become more electric in the sum-

Chanel

see pastel shades on the

mer. Orange and pink will become more intense and saturated as the seasons change,” says coolhunter expert Lorena Borja, from São Paulo. Lipsticks come sophisticated matte effect; the casual glossy, and the newcomer lipstain,

ELECTRIC LIGHT UP GO FOR IT: VIBRANT COLORS ARE INVADING THIS SEASON’S MAKEUP KITS AND THEY’RE ABOUT TO GET YOUR LOOKS EVEN GROOVIER!

Sophia Webster

in different textures: the

a liquid version that stains

Fendi

Badgley Mischka

and product development

the lips like a felt tip pen.

It’s all for a summer full

São Paulo. Also, add to

almost become acces-

everyday life,” says Lorena

of groove.

this colorful look some

sories, and they stand out

Borja. How can we adopt

The eyes are having

eyebrows à la Frida Kahlo,

through nail art. Geometric

the ideas from the catwalk

their days and receiving

but with the subtle air of a

shapes and mixed colors

to our daily life with bits

the attention they deserve

Sicilian lady.

are among the best op-

of fashionism? Just play

tions for your look. “Nails

around with the Inverse

with graphic outlines and

Text Andréia Meneguete Photos Agência Fotosite

As everything has its op-

smoky colors. “The rule

position, the skin softens

are no longer something

French – the one with the

is not being afraid to use

the colors with natural

unimpressive when it

“half-moon” – and with

color on the eyelids and

good looks and a bit of a

comes to beauty, and

nice color combinations

eyelashes. Blue, green and

highlight. Forget that thing

now they are as strong

that match the makeup

gold are the protagonists

about faking endless lay-

as makeup. The level of

itself. Color matching is a

of the makeup for the

ers of foundation, OK?

eyes”, says beauty artist Gustavo Almeida, from

boldness goes according

must, but the colors should

Hands are not left out

to the woman’s liberat-

have some kind of balance

of the season! Nails have

ing attitude towards her

between them, right?

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Plastic Dreams

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

1. Rirkrit Tiravanija, Untitled, BBQ Corner, Chromed stainless steel panels, barbeque and gas bottles, 2010.

sociate with object makers, they, at times, share and address similar questions, while remaining diverse in their course of action.

The questions posed to the viewer, however, are the very questions that connect states of living and being in a global context of which the notion of contemporary subjectivity is at the core.

Tiravanija is a singular artist whose works converse with fellow artists and architects, and often the success of his endeavors are wholly dependent on the audience who ignite his site specific and performative installations and projects. In the case of the Bernadette Corporation, they are a collective of sorts, a group of artists, whose core consists of three key people: John

PHOTOS: COURTESY 1301PE, LOS ANGELES

Kelsey, Bernadette van Huy, and Antek Walzcak.

That being said, at various

UPSIDE DOWN, INSIDE OUT

times, they have had other collaborators temporary and strategy based. In the case of Ryan Trecartin, the delineations are completely obliterated. He is both singular and co- authors projects with one main collaborator and partner Lizzie Fitch, and

Text Heather Harmon

many others who operate almost in a Warholian sense forming a group of people

What defines a global

their varied oeuvres that

distinctly different nu-

ways in which it is possible

that are both socially con-

location in which the viewer

possibility for participation

inclusive or democratic. The

perspective? How is it

often take on a number

ances of each of the artists’

to work against cultural my-

nected as friends but also

and creator have no center,

and interpretation is wide

possibility for the subject

that a work, or works of

of forms (object, film, and

end results generate

thologies and constructions,

collaborators, actors, and

only a multitude of points

open and not residing at a

and subjectivity is expanded

art, can address a wide

performance), that examine

complexities that expand

while freely communicat-

family members et al. The

of departure; places to go.

fixed position. Their work is

through these breakdowns

audience through social

how subjectivity is experi-

conventional notions of

ing with a global audience,

three, whether intentional

In these works, one has the

collaborative, participatory,

of identity, authorship, and

systems and shared condi-

enced. The obvious point of

collaboration, identity, and

and blurring boundaries

or not, merge art and life

possibility to re-invent or

and engaging to the viewer.

collaboration.

tions? These are only a few

connection between their

subjectivity. Freely incorpo-

between art and life.

in ways never before experi-

change the self, to create a

These artists cull mate-

of the questions contempo-

individual and collective

rating advertising tropes,

enced or proposed.

mask for which the self or

rial and inspiration from

present works that hold a

rary artists Rirkrit Tiravanija,

investigations is the inher-

blending cultural references,

artists, whose practices are

In breaking down the

number of selves reveals

common themes; viewers

myriad of data, whether

Bernadette Corporation, and

ently collaborative structure

and collapsing established

tremendously divergent

lines between art and life,

to their audience, real and

shared experiences and the

the information is visual,

Ryan Trecartin explore, in

of all three practices. The

norms, artists are finding

from those one might as-

these artists propose a new

imagined or created. The

position is a global one,

linguistic or textual. Often

In the case of these three

Each of the three artists

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Plastic Dreams

77

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: COURTESY 1301PE, LOS ANGELES

Images from The Land (started in 1998), a site intended to be a community fostering agricutural and artistic practices through art, architecture and farming.

working with popular media, they seek to expand the possibilities for communication, proposing relationships that are often direct with their audiences.

FOSTERING INTERACTIONS Rirkrit Tiravanija works in a variety of means, from large-scale installations that become stages for music, living, cooking and sharing basic social needs to paintings, objects, and works on paper. Born in Argentina, Tiravanija lives and works between New York, Berlin, and a small village outside

on the occasion of his solo

and galleries across the

prepare. At times, these

ty and act as a way to close

continue to have new itera-

Mexican villagers defend

work Map of the Land of

of Chiang Mai, in Northern

exhibition there, where he

globe, often being a major

pop up food serving stations

gaps between residents

tions and audiences. Only

themselves against bandits.

Feeling, which captures an

Thailand, where he is build-

prepared a Thai meal and

catalyst in bringing a varied

are incorporated into larger

and neighbors, encourag-

when activated, the works

Playing with the title of the

international picture of posi-

ing The Land project, a site

served it to visitors. The de-

audience together.

projects, such as the Com-

ing them to get out of their

become animated through

film, and also the genre,

tions, images, and passport

intended to be a community

sired effect, which is at the

munity cinema for a quiet

houses and interact with

the audience.

Tiravanija’s installation and

stamps, woven into a larger

fostering agriculture and

very heart of these works,

Cook Book contains close

intersection (against Olden-

one another. Cooking and

context literally become

narrative of traveling. Tira-

artistic practices through art,

lies in the magic created by

to 2-dozen recipes, ranging

burg) from 1999, shown in

eating become a relational

untitled (the magnificent

a cultural melting pot, a

vanija deals with historical

architecture, and farming.

common bonding experi-

from traditional Thai dishes

Glasgow. For this particular

experience, a catalyst to

seven, spaghetti western),

blended soup of locations,

memory and the way in

His work, on a fundamental

ences, and in the opening

to re-imagined recipes that

iteration of food, architec-

foster interaction. These en-

the artist cooked and served

languages and references.

which histories are pushed

level, seeks to bridge gaps,

up of conversations, interac-

include favorites of global

ture and film, Tiravanija set

deavors challenge concep-

Tom Ka Gai, a spicy hot

A perfect example of his

forward, erased or simply

dissolve boundaries, and

tions, and involvement. At

cuisine, all of which had

up a temporary four-screen

tions of private and public,

soup, from seven pots, to

complex inter-weaving,

forgotten. The large print,

connect individuals through

the core, his practice is both

been previously performed.

cinema and Thai BBQ as

while the artworks are

an audience in Toronto. The

this work contains the

comprised of three scrolls,

collective activities that are

social and conceptual, and

Putting unexpected twists

part of a citywide festival.

meant to continue on even

title of this work, on one

layers often present in his

is a chronology of the art-

often universal experi-

has consistently taken on

to familiar recipes, the book

The installation took over

after the event has culmi-

level, refers to the Spaghet-

practice- cooking, culture,

ist’s physical and temporal

ences, like sharing meals

a number of forms, where

is imbued with and includes

the corner of a residential

nated. Individuals or institu-

ti Western film genre, also

humor, and site specificity.

passages. All of which are

and conversations. Early

audience participation plays

regional staples such as

area, and simultaneously

tions that own or acquire

dubbed “Italian” (as most

These elements, combined

recorded along with draw-

on in his practice, projects

a large part. Food has also

paella, Swedish meatballs

screened four films: It’s a

the works are welcomed to

were produced by Italians),

with their context, become

ings, maps, and notes.

included the cooking and

carried a large role in his

and Turkish coffee, each

Wonderful Life, Casablanca,

cook in the structures or to

and also speaks to the plot

extremely important.

serving of meals at galleries

performative works that are

seasoned with Tiravanija’s

A Bug’s Life, and The Jungle

use the materials, and are

of the film. Most movies

or institutions to visitors

part installation, part site

own interventions. Food is

Book. Community cinema

encouraged to inhabit the

of this genre consisted of

GLOBAL CITIZENS

Tiravanija also works in text-

and passers-by, even giving

specific, and often tempo-

inextricably tied to one’s

for a quiet intersection

spaces to promote com-

an unusually varied and

The artist himself could be

based paintings, wall draw-

out recipes. One of his first

rary or time based. These

idea of national iden-

(against Oldenburg) and

munity. In a sense, although

multilingual cast. In this

considered a global citizen.

ings, and sculptural objects

projects of this type took

culinary experiences have

tity, and site often sets the

other projects of this nature

the works are site specific

particular story, the heroes

This is best described and

or editions that often relate

place in 1992 at 303 Gallery

been imagined in museums

context for what he will

create a sense of communi-

and conditional, they can

travel from the U.S. to help

depicted in the monumental

to his cooking practice. The

Published in 2011, his

In his performance

In addition to his performances and installations,

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Plastic Dreams

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE ARTISTS AND GREENE NAFTALI, NEW YORK

Installation images of 2000 Wasted Years, a retrospective exhibition at Artists Space (NYC) featuring works by Bernadette Corporation since their inception in the early 90s.

The publication’s contribu-

STORYTELLING

tors were writers, artists,

In 2005 the Bernadette

and philosophers presented

Corporation published the

alongside designers. Using

collectively written novel,

the language of popular

Rena Spauldings, in 2005.

and corporate culture, they

Authored by multiple voices,

were able to defy expecta-

this book becomes a col-

tions of what an art practice

laborative formation of an

entails. Corporations are

identity. Again, challenging

global entities, and “Made

the notion of subjectivity,

USA”s contributors were

the Bernadette Corpora-

often international figures,

tion’s cumulative voices

French theorists, or at that

along with the dozens of

time, foreign brands like

contributors to this project,

H&M. The name itself is

open up the possibilities for

extrapolated from a Godard

narrative, authorship, and

film. The magazine was

the creative process. The

active only a short time

self, the individual, slips in

before closing for finan-

this narrative and the “I”

cial and political reasons.

becomes a definitive “we”

Following this, Berna-

and the “self” is connected

dette Corporation created

to the vast network of “oth-

their first overtly political

ers” out in the world. The

cinematic work “Get Rid of

novel’s main character, as

Yourself”, a filmic essay that

the eponymous title sug-

was part documentary, part

gests, is a museum guard

activist social commentary.

turned model, discovered on

The presentation of the

the job and made into tal-

text-based works are often

only with specific moments

is activated when inhab-

tion is an artist collective

that serves as a vehicle for

characters. Fashion, to the

film is slick, and as in much

ent. The journey is her life

strong sentiments of politi-

in the contemporary political

ited by visitors. Its interior

formed around 1994, whose

the promotion of ideas.

group, initially seemed to

of their work, captures a

in post 9/11 New York. The

cal expression, with slogans

landscape but further push

houses both objects, docu-

name evolved from the

Bernadette Corporation

be a common language,

polished, corporate feel. The

notion of creating or invent-

such as Police the Police,

the collaborative nature of

ments, and videos related

proposition that declaring

initially began organizing

one that existed outside

film’s point of entry is the

ing talent is not a novel one

All You Need is Dynamite,

his work as he has commis-

to the illustrious tree, whose

themselves as a corpora-

parties in the New York club

of the gallery, but tied to

2001 riots in Genoa during

in popular culture today,

or The Days of Our Soci-

sioned artists and, at times,

history is one of exoticism

tion was a way in which

scene of the early 1990s.

other aspects of culture.

the G8 Summit. Bernadette

where much of culture is

ety Are Numbered. These

former students to redraw

and displacement.

they could effectively

One of their nights at famed

Their attraction was often to

Corporation collaborated

orchestrated in such a way.

statements are presented

these images which then

create an identity in flux,

Club USA was simply called

types of clothing that drew

with the radical anarchist

either on a monochromatic

become the works.

CULTURAL RESISTANCE

not locatable, but fluid.

FUN. Following their time in

from contemporary mass

group, Tiqqun. Showing

a project that proposed to

Pedestrian Cinema was

Social history and storytell-

Initially working somewhere

the world of nightlife and

produced sportswear and

protests in a way that was

utilize the filmic media to

newsprint, featuring current

comes collaboration in an

ing is a large part of the

between fashion and art,

club kids, they began to

urban dressing. Playing upon

highly stylized gave the

open up any and all pos-

headlines and rendered in

array of forms, challenging

work of the Bernadette

their mock organization has

a women’s ready-to-wear

the fragile status of cultural

group the necessary dis-

sibilities for what it could

the language applicable to

conventional notions of au-

Corporation. Both Tiravanija

become a way to push the

fashion line from the mid

and artistic boundaries, they

tance for critique. Scripted

become. Film segments

that particular daily. Tira-

thorship and subjectivity. His

and Bernadette Corporation

collapse of social constructs

to late 90s. Their clothing

successfully traversed a ter-

passages of revolutionary

and surrounding props,

vanija used current events

works, like Palm Pavilion,

deal with notions of collec-

on while commenting on

line was a way in which the

ritory existing somewhere

text read by actress Chloe

literature and mementos

in newspapers in his Dem-

draw from his interest in

tive action, collaboration,

fiction’s relationship and

group could take liberties in

between fantasy and realty.

Sevigny run through the

were to be pieced together

onstration Drawings, which

architecture and invite par-

and political action. Their

dependence upon a notion

referencing and in emulating

As the label grew, the group

film. As the title alludes,

from a variety of contribu-

were the subject of a survey

ticipation. Currently residing

democratic strategies of ap-

of reality. The group has ex-

the fashion world through

began to reevaluate and

distance reinforced the idea

tors to form a larger non

exhibition at the Drawing

in Inhotim, this pavilion-like

propriation and dissemina-

plored strategies of cultural

the lens of humor and

ultimately shifted to another

of getting rid of the self.

linear narrative, not unlike

Center in New York. These

structure becomes a site

tion of information question

resistance through popular

social critique. Their runway

medium.

This is a concept that runs

the Reena Spauldings work,

drawings, for which the

for the facilitating of events

authorship, the nature of

media: film, books, maga-

shows combined models

After reorganizing,

throughout the work as the

which would continue

sources are images drawn

and mixing of ideas. An

demonstration, and the indi-

zines, fashion, and corporate

with performers, including

Bernadette Corporation

global subject collides with

the exquisite corpse that

from the “International

adaptation of Jean Prouve’s

vidual’s position in society.

language. A corporation has

mascots and cheerleaders,

started the self published

the notion of singularity

has been woven through

Herald Tribune”, deal not

Maison Tropicale, the work

The Bernadette Corpora-

a blankness and neutrality

alongside other unexpected

magazine “Made in USA”.

and fixed identity.

their oeuvre in a mysteri-

background or overlaid on

Tiravanija’s practice wel-

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Plastic Dreams

81

Melissa Nation Winter 2014 PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE ARTISTS AND GREENE NAFTALI, NEW YORK

giving viewers unrestricted access to edited versions, reaching a global viewership beyond the confines of a

Bernadette Corporation’s A Haven for the Soul, a conceptual piece shown at Galerie Neu, Berlin, 2010.

gallery or museum setting.

Trecartin finds his audience here, and extrapolates the visual language of the Internet through the use of pop up boxes and windows, text overlay, split and multiple screens, giving viewers a barrage of information, both hyperactive and simultaneous. The speed at which information is received in these works has a high level of intensity, as do the protagonists of his films. At the moment when one imagines he or she can hold onto something _image, idea or concept _it slips away or fades and is replaced by new information. The quasinarrative consistently moves slightly ahead of the viewer _just beyond one’s grasp.

The movies are a conglom-

ous almost impenetrable

with the incredibly beautiful

of high quality presenta-

inhabited many facets of

transformed into performa-

artist, Trecartin also works

several other key par-

eration of multiple forms of

sense. After the failure of

polished look one would

tion, putting a twist on the

the art world and culture in-

tive objects and sculptural

in sculpture, installation and

ticipants. From a distance,

media, meeting all at once.

this project, their gallery

come to associate with the

conventional notion of DIY,

dustry. They often commis-

components.

photography. In his films,

the world they inhabit is

exhibition practice began,

Bernadette Corporation.

that it has to be unpolished

sion and set up shoots, at

also referred to as movies,

explosively inventive, seem-

gether new perspective on

using artifacts from this

This exhibition dealt with

or messy. Here again, under

times acting like an agency,

and production, Berna-

he writes, directs, and acts

ingly all encompassing, and

how art is or can be defined

endeavor which became the

idea of the self and the

a corporate guise, consumer

contracting out work, com-

dette Corporation crosses

in the works. These works

confuses the boundaries

after the Internet. The filmic

source material for their first

leak. At this time, Rihanna’s

critique has the Ducham-

menting on the production,

boundaries between

blend spontaneous and

between the work and the

works deal with the very na-

official gallery exhibition

private texts became public,

pian elegance of the urinal

circulation, and distribution

fashion, art, and notions of

scripted and performances

life. Both his home and stu-

ture of communication and

that included ephemera,

calling into attention the

without the Home Depot

of images and culture.

culture. Using very differ-

by both friends and profes-

dio act as epicenters for the

the creation of the projected

footage, screenplays, and

difficulty of privacy in a post

aesthetic of so many goods

Consumer culture is a

ent modes, Ryan Trecartin

sional actors, with sets,

exchange of ideas, practices,

self. Drawing inspiration

film stills.

Internet, social media-

and objects we associate

subject investigated by all

amplifies consumer culture

props, and common objects.

and information.

not only from conditions of

obsessed age. The company

with consumer critique in

three artist(s), where mate-

in his epic video works that

Difficult, and not necessary

A Haven for the Soul, the

that provided the fixtures

sculpture. Public and private

rial in sculpture and installa-

unravel in complex visual

to separate from his practice,

POST INTERNET

reality television and talk

group exhibited a selec-

for the exhibition used the

spaces are all on display in

tion is a common concern

non-linear narratives.

is long time friend and col-

Trecartin’s works employ a

shows, he uses the language

tion of sculptural works

language of “A haven for

this exhibition, in which two

_from Tiravanija’s ready-

Trecartin currently lives

laborator Lizzie Fitch. Fitch

variety of strategies, both

of “real life” performing for

comprised of ready made,

the soul” in their advertising

monitors leaning against the

made cooking apparatuses,

and works in Los Angeles.

often co-authors the works

technical and artistic. In

the camera, bringing into

beautifully refined plumb-

campaign. The bathroom

wall depict images of a Gulf

to Bernadette Corporation’s

However, the various loca-

in many aspects of the

a sense, his works can be

question the contemporary

ing fixtures elegantly

is a space with which one

oil spill’s further leakage.

ready made objects, and the

tions (Miami, New Orleans,

practice, from the movies to

described as post Internet,

conditions of social media

engraved with Rihanna-

would associate privacy, but

mass produced goods Ryan

Philadelphia) and sites of

the large-scale installations.

as the works freely pull

and television. The viewer’s

related tweets. Describing

has privacy dissipated in

MASS CONSUMPTION

Trecartin often employs

residence he has inhabited,

The two met in 2001, while

from the language of social

relationship to the camera

the fixtures as found is not

favor of publicity? For Berna-

Through installation, col-

in his sculptures and sets.

has often informed and

studying together at RISD,

media and YouTube. In fact,

has essentially changed and

entirely representative, as

dette Corporation, there

laboration, social spaces, the

Assembled in a completely

driven his work. Predomi-

and have lived and worked

adaptations of the artist’s

in a “selfie” world, behavior

they were visually in line

has always existed a level

Bernadette Corporation have

different context, props are

nantly known as a video

together since, along with

films are shared on Vimeo,

is altered for different

In their 2010 exhibition,

Playing on consumption

Trecartin brings an alto-

technology, but also from

82

Plastic Dreams

83

Melissa Nation Winter 2014

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES AND ANDREA ROSEN GALLERY, NEW YORK

1

2

3

1. Ryan Trecartin, Roamie View: History Enhancement (Re’Search Wait’S), video stills, 2009-2010.

2. Ryan Trecartin, K-CoreaINC.K, video stills. (section a), 2009.

3. Ryan Trecartin, I-Be AREA, video stills, 2007.

contexts, obscuring the lines

work, elusive and impene-

often non linear, yet retains

BREAKING THE RULES

slightly more sinister tone

delicate and teetering

everywhere happens at

identity by turning upside

between “on” and “off,”

trable. The films are entirely

a trajectory.

In preparing the work for

and increased sophistica-

identity of subjectivity. His

once. Embracing technol-

down the very structures

suggesting new responses

scripted and in this process,

Trecartin’s earlier works

the 55th Venice Biennale,

tion. Props were altered and

practice rejects binaries in

ogy, Trecartin exemplifies

that perpetuate the object.

to how identity is affected

Trecartin builds upon

such as Roamie View: History

entitled The Encyclopedic

doubled as weapons, and

favor of multiplicities. The

the future, one that assimi-

Using the modes with which

by technology. Essentially

language in an elaborately

Enhancement (Re’Search

Place, Trecartin’s process

never before seen footage

movies successfully mimic

lates with the vast global

information is disseminated

always on screen, characters

humorous and impeccably

Wait’S) or K-CorealNC.K (sec-

began to metamorphose.

of Trecartin’s early home

the language of technol-

language of the Internet,

and circulated, they create

in Trecartin’s films want to

structured approach. This

tion a) are visually fantastic

The movies initiated for

movies from high school,

ogy, and the pace with

one that shows the freedom

works in which identity

become image, raising ques-

aspect of the practice is

cacophonies of information.

this project drew from the

such as the film Junior Wars,

which change occurs in a

in contemporary conditions,

is not fixed, but rather

tions of self-awareness and

remarkable, as he has es-

Often interconnected through

vocabulary of his famil-

were included in the instal-

transformative, technologi-

where norms are unearthed,

becomes borderless, global,

self-creation.

sentially developed his own

characters and recurring

iar sources, expanding to

lation. The shoots and plots

cal state. When faced with

toppled, and discarded.

and cannot be contained.

Rirkrit Tiravanija, Berna-

The boundaries between art

language, often combining

themes, as well as objects,

include game show culture,

became substantially more

a multitude of posts: post

do not know their lines in

or compounding words, pun-

props, and sets. Culturally

hazing, spring break and the

complex, and psychologi-

modern, post industrial, post

dette Corporation, and Ryan

and life, already unstable,

advance and are given these

ning, inventing new phrases,

consumptive, Trecartin uses

spirit of competition. The

cally darker.

Internet, post gender, Trecar-

Trecartin, from varied posi-

are pushed to the point of

on the spot. Opting for night

and pulling from Internet

readily available editing tools

production of these recent

tin shows the fragility of

tions, challenge convention-

destruction. The artifi-

shooting, they will repeat

acronyms. On one hand

and mass-produced products.

works was all-inclusive;

breaking the rules and, in

construction on which these

al notions of subjectivity,

cial lines of demarcation

their lines several times in

there are recognizable texts,

Even prior to a script being

costumes produced included

doing so, he shows them to

concepts are built. He favors

singularity, appropriation,

between the two collapse

a given setting, and these

familiar words and jargon;

completed, he starts shooting

sweatshirts for the charac-

be insufficient and limit-

spontaneity as opposed to

and authorship. They evoke

in favor of a broader, more

takes become incorporated

on the other hand, language

and the film, characters, and

ters, delineating teams or

ing. In his work, concepts

linearity, as the collapse of

the potential for collabora-

reaching possibility to blur

into the film. This is one of

is, at times, undecipherable.

process evolve from previous

hierarchies with slogans

of narrative and authorship,

narrative connects to the

tion and, as a result, chal-

and confuse, creating op-

the many ways in which

Although a strong narrative

shoots, constantly building

like “witness” or “audition“.

individuals and community

language of the web, a vast

lenge notions of commercial

portunities for new more

language operates in the

is present, the sequence is

upon what has come before.

These new works took on a

call into reality the already

network where everything

viability, marketability and

expanded subjectivities.

Friends and actors often

Trecartin delights in

Plastic Dreams

DOLL PARTS POP LUXURY COMBINES WITH HIGH FASHION. TO DEMONSTRATE THIS CONNECTION, PLASTIC DREAMS INVITED RICHARD MORTIMER, THE MAN BEHIND THE IRREVERENT BRITISH COLLECTIVE PONYSTEP, TO STYLE SOME OF THE LAUNCHES BY MELISSA’S PARTNERS SUCH AS VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, KARL LAGERFELD AND GARETH PUGH WITH DESIGNS FROM THE ELITE OF GLOBAL FASHION. PHOTOS TOM MORAN CONCEPT AND STYLING RICHARD MORTIMER SET DESIGN STEPHANIE KEVERS MAKEUP MONICA STORRS NAIL ART SABRINA GAYLE @ LMC WORLDWIDE

84

SEE THE MAKING OF ON YOUTUBE/MELISSACHANNEL Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase

Jacket Gareth Pugh MELISSA ASCENSION + GARETH PUGH

Plastic Dreams

Dress KARL LAGERFELD MELISSA GLOVE LOVE + KARL LAGERFELD

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Dress Moschino MELISSA QUEEN

Skirt ‘Anglomania’

by Vivienne Westwood VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ANGLOMANIA + MELISSA LADY DRAGON

Plastic jacket and rubber underwear Atsuko Kudo MELISSA LADY DRAGON

Trousers Gareth Pugh MELISSA AILERON FLIP FLOP + GARETH PUGH

MELISSA ULTRAGIRL + GARETH PUGH

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

A rare reference for fashion

Text Richard Mortimer

For almost 35 years, the Melissa brand has become something of a byword for international fashion. From their beginnings in Brazil, the plastic shoe has become a pop culture phenomenon, making fashion waves on a global scale.

More recently, Melissa has been making fashion waves of a different kind. Collaborations with some of the industry’s most influential designers have pushed the Melissa brand under the noses of fashions elite. And they love it. Sell out collections with Vivienne Westwood, Gareth Pugh, Karl Lagerfeld and Jean Paul Gaultier, amongst others, have garnered the South American plastic pioneers a rare fashion pedigree.

For the Melissa Nation themed issue, I teamed the latest Melissa collection with key pieces from international designers I felt chimed with the language of the brand: from the more obvious designers such as Gareth Pugh, Vivienne Westwood and Karl Lagerfeld, to the rubber fetishwear of Japanese phenomenon Atsuko Kudo, the off-beat genius of Italian stalwarts Moschino, and the homegrown talent in form of the unstoppable Sibling.

Richard Mortimer is the entrepreneur behind the cult London club BoomBox. He is currently Editor-in-Chief of Ponystep Magazine. ponystep.com/magazine

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Partners

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

“BEAUTIFUL AND STRONG”

WONDER PARTNERS

PLASTIC DREAMS: Can you suggest the ideal outfit to wear with your latest Melissa designs?

GARETH PUGH: Given that our key visual references for this second collaboration were technology and flight - I would say perhaps something a little futuristic, but with an element of romance.

PD: Which women inspired you to design for this collection?

CO-CREATIONS AND A COLLABORATIVE SPIRIT ARE KEY ELEMENTS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS OF THE PRODUCTS THAT COME WITH THE SIGNATURE OF RENOWNED NAMES FROM BOTH INTERNATIONAL FASHION AND DESIGN, TOGETHER WITH MELISSA. CHECK OUT THE NEW LAUNCHES FOR THIS SEASON ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES.

GP: To be honest I try not to have someone specific in mind when I design - I prefer to approach the design process in a much more unconscious way - so it’s more about a feeling or a mood, which in turn informs the aesthetic.

MELISSA AILERON + GARETH PUGH PD: Would you say it is your most audacious creation for the brand? Can you describe a little bit about its creative process?

The designer’s characteristic futuristic prints appears in

GP: For sure, this collection really centers around our first

modern jet-setters as they travel to places with warmer

high heel - which I’ve called the Ascension - and my original

temperatures during this season. Available in five colors:

thought was that I wanted to create something much closer

glazed black, matte black, metallic blue, silver and white.

a flip flop style which will be a must-have for the more

to a style you might see in our runway collection, but with a completely new set of references. Working with these materials you can achieve such a controlled line, which meant the final result was exactly as I’d hoped - beautiful

The cult British designer started his career when he was only 14, creating costumes for the French National Theatre. Today, at the age of 32, he is recognised by some of the most sough-after professionals of fashion as someone who has “redefined contemporary luxury” (showstudio.com). His name and brand gains strength every season, and his partnership with Melissa was the result of a natural process, as plastic is the raw material of his most emblematic designs, as well as the architectural forms which make up his styles for the brand. For winter 2014, Pugh presents three new shapes, in his second collection for Melissa.

AGÊNCIA FOTOSITE

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

The ascension of Gareth Pugh

and strong.

MELISSA ULTRAGIRL + GARETH PUGH Pugh’s geometric and avant-garde print now comes in Melissa’s iconic Ultragirl style, in five colors: red, blue, black, purple and silver. Too cool!

MELISSA ASCENSION + GARETH PUGH Courageous and irreverent, this is the most audacious design created by Gareth for Melissa. A wedge composed by geometric cuts and a platform, it has a printed sole and five color variations. These are: black, navy blue, blue, silver and red, including metallic finishes. A true icon which will highlight the most basic look, perfect to be worn with worn out t-shirt and jeans in monochromatic tones. Even though is looks very audacious, Ascension is firm to the feet and easy to walk with!

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Partners

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania + Melissa Satyr [1] is a charming reinterpreta-

tion of an ankle boot from its parent brand, with a velvety feel and an opaque heel. It’s

Vivienne Westwood, The one and only ONLY THE IRREVERENT DAME VIVIENNE WESTWOOD COULD MIX GLAMOUR, TRADITION AND FANTASY IN HER NEW COLLECTION FOR MELISSA. GET READY!

bold, comfortable and überfashion! Vivienne Westwood Anglomania + Melissa Riding [2] is a versatile pair of wellies

with checkered detail and two versions of soles (black for golden and moss green and

2

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

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Multiplying icons!

And we love it!

IN HIS ANTICIPATED SECOND CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR MELISSA, THE INCOMPARABLE KARL LAGERFELD DREW INSPIRATION FROM HIS OWN GARMENTS TO CREATE SIX NEW MODELS FOR THE BRAND, AND HE ALSO PAID TRIBUTE TO BRAZIL IN A TRENDY PAIR OF GOLDEN FLATS WITH AN APPLIED SOCCER BALL.

1 2

3

3 4

5

designer’s iconic glove, with square

1 6

4

Melissa Glove Love + KARL LAGERFELD [1] was inspired by the heels and rounded cutouts in a sexy

5

and irreverent style. The color palette is perfect for either day or night, with its gleeful neon yellow, teal and orange, plus the more sober shades

pink for silver and navy blue).

And there are even more day-to-day options: Vivienne Westwood Anglomania + Melissa Ultragirl XII [3] gets a romantic tartan bow at the top. And Vivienne Westwood Anglomania + Melissa Bailarina [4] gets four new

From celebrities’ feet to the world

of white, navy blue and black. On

JASON WU WON OVER MELISSA’S FANS AROUND THE PLANET WITH THE CHARACTERISTIC FEMININITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP OF HIS CREATIONS, TURNING EACH PRODUCT FROM HIS PARTNERSHIP WITH THE BRAND INTO A SYMBOL OF ELEGANCE AND PRACTICALITY.

KARL LAGERFELD [2] refers to Karl’s 2

usual white shirt and black tie, a bicolor dress cage sandal that could only be the result of this partnership!

Luckily for the brand’s fans, Melissa Ultragirl + KARL LAGERFELD [3]

Melissa Magda + Jason Wu [1] is an interpretation

colors and features the par-

the other hand, Melissa Black Tie +

3

brings the classic style with the ap-

ent brand logo of the British

of the Franciscan sandal with round toe and elon-

fashion designer. The new ver-

gated leather cutouts. The shades of navy blue, black

uses in public. Pure charm and good

sion of Vivienne Westwood

and white will make the designer’s coolest follow-

spirits! Melissa Seduce + KARL

Anglomania + Melissa Lady

ers go crazy. The übber hit Melissa Jean + Jason Wu

LAGERFELD [4] is a tribute to such an

Dragon XI [5] has a tartan

[2], that outlines the feet with webs that remind us of

important year to Brazil. The shape

bow or a maxi heart appli-

grosgrain stripes, comes in new colors! Melissa Virtue

qué. The pearly version, with

+ Jason Wu II [3] and Melissa Ultragirl + Jason Wu

a version featuring a modern bow.

the maxi heart appliqué and

VI [4] now comes in a smooth and velvety version

Finally, in Melissa Ultragirl Heel +

a hit among brides, is also

with a fabric bow and metallic detail. Finally, Melissa

KARL LAGERFELD [5], the style gets

Moon Dust + Jason Wu [5] brings a rock and roll

a high heel and optimistic colors

all moms, there’s Vivienne

touch to the fashion designer’s new collection, with

that will surely be seen on the feet

Westwood Anglomania +

wellies that feature applied spikes and mini spikes

Mini Melissa Ultragirl V [6].

that match the product’s color!

back! And to the delight of

1

4

plied sunglasses, just like those Karl

gets an applied soccer ball and also

of trendsetters in the front row of 5

next season’s fashion shows!

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Galleries

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

NEW YORK

GALLERIES

The Campana Brothers and Melissa light up the Big Apple

TAKING ANOTHER MAJOR STEP IN ITS INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION STRATEGY, GALERIA MELISSA PROJECT HAS ALREADY CONQUERED SP AND NYC; IN 2014, IT WILL OPEN IN LONDON.

DESIGNERS FERNANDO AND HUMBERTO CAMPANA CELEBRATE THE NEW FITAS STYLE WITH A SPECIAL LAUNCH IN NYC. FERNANDO LASZLO

FABIO TAVARES

Melissa’s longtime partners

LONDON CALLING!

raw materials in footwear

bition led by the new model

and worldwide references

may have sounded unlikely

will be composed of neon

in contemporary design,

ten years ago. But since the

panels with the same texture

Fernando and Humberto

release of Melissa Campana

of the Fitas model, and two

Campana will make history

(thin heel and round toe)

large chandeliers made with

in New York’s Galeria Melissa

back in 2004, Melissa Spider

the sandal itself. The light-

in the first half of 2014. The

Campana and the Campana

ing will be translucent and

main protagonist is the

bag, there is no doubt that

in orange tones. In March,

Fitas style, which will have

the combination of the

Fernando and Humberto

its international release in

Campana Brothers’ creativity

will travel to New York

February with an exhibition

with Melissa’s technology is

to celebrate the new hit.

at Melissa’s concept store,

a guaranteed success. They

in the SoHo district.

also gained Baby and Kids

model (released in Brazil

versions, and they are among

with the We Are Flowers

born from a tray that was

the brand’s most popular for

collection) gets awesome

originally a sketch for a screen

Melissa’s fans/consumers with

new colors – eight, including

made of cardboard strips. The

their affordable design.

copper, silver, gold and black

The design of Fitas was

idea of applying the design

To celebrate the 10th year

of objects made of unusual

of this partnership, the exhi-

In Melissa Nation, the

Pictured above: the Campana Brothers, whose designs are, amongst others, in the MoMa collection; (below), the new style fitas, inspired by a cardboard folding screen

– with and without glitter.

Pure glamour!

LONDON

Text Suzy Capó & Duda Porto de Souza

The spirits of London and

tion of the space – the oldest

practically defines London,”

the contrast between the stiff-

to that: I have the world as

building on King Street in the

he explains. In fact, what is

ness and pomp of the palaces

a parameter in my projects,

Nation collection, another

charming district of Covent

most enticing for the designer

and guards, and the young

wherever they are located,

common feature becomes

Garden – are stimulants in

“is its blend of traditional and

people on the street, who were

from Campo Grande to New

even stronger: multi-ethnicity.

this context, as they point

high-tech, past and future,

almost all punks at the time,”

York,” said Randolph, with the

between the traditional and

London is home to a wide va-

out the affinities that will be

and also the parks.”

he says.

ease of a professional whose

the contemporary – concepts

riety of cultures, a character-

celebrated there.

that permeate all areas of

istic that reflects the essence

“It is a great challenge to

the city and of the brand. Not

of the Brazilian brand’s 2014

coincidentally, Dame Vivienne

Winter collection.

Melissa’s partners.

Melissa have always walked

Now with the Melissa

hand in hand. Both are connected with creativity, innovation and with a healthy bond

Randolph has had an emo-

In order to complete such

résumé combines a pioneer-

tional relationship with the Brit-

a task at this particular loca-

introduce Melissa’s innovative

ish capital since his childhood.

tion in the city – not far from

and futuristic concept into the

In the 70s, he was in London

concept stores of incredibly

highlights his relationship

ing spirit with diversity.

In this project, Randolph

neighborhood’s oldest build-

with his family and a strong

prestigious brands – is special,

with the brand. “Imagining an

global references of two

which opens its doors in

ing, which is highly protected

virus struck them all down. His

to say the least. “Having to

evolved version of what we

generations of fashion and

2014, will become a temple

by local laws,” says Muti

grandfather and himself were

impress in London, which is

created at Oscar Freire but in

behavior that always allowed

for celebrating all of these

Randolph, from Rio de Janeiro,

the only ones still standing. “He

a global center of artistic and

Covent Garden is already the

London to stand out among

values. And the obstacles

who also designed Galeria

took me sightseeing, but what

technological innovation, is a

most special thing about this

the world’s major cities, are

presented by the very loca-

Melissa São Paulo. “But that

impressed me the most was

lot of pressure, but I am used

experience,” he concludes.

Westwood and Gareth Pugh,

London’s Melissa Gallery,

Born in Rio de Janeiro, Muti Randolph is responsible for the architectural projects of both São Paulo and London galleries

COURTESY OF THE ARCHITECT

FEATURING AN ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN

BY MUTI RANDOLPH, MELISSA OPENS A GALLERY IN THE FAMOUS DISTRICT OF COVENT GARDEN, A LONDON TRADE ZONE WHICH DATES BACK TO ROMAN TIMES AND WHICH NOW GATHERS ALL OF THE CITY’S FASHION SPLENDOR AND MODERNITY.

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Ten of the most emblematic looks from the Melissa Nation catwalk show were displayed at Galeria São Paulo, attracting a lot of tourist attraction

SAO PAULO

FROM THE CATWALK TO THE STREETS Text Duda Porto de Souza Photos Romulo Fialdini

MELISSA CLUB

INNOVATING ALSO IN BRAZIL You already know that Melissa Club’s concept is much

a lot of tourist attraction. Four of

more than a retail chain with over 115 stores across the

of its first catwalk show at São

them were displayed in the external

country. It is also a relationship experience with consu-

Paulo Fashion Week (see page 58),

area’s giant façade, communicating

mers where you can find the latest styles from every

showing the Melissa Nation Winter

the multiethnic richness of the

collection and some of the brand’s unique products. From

2014 collection, several looks from

collection in the heart of the city’s

February 2nd on, each store will be “invaded” by the

this new and inspiring venture were

fashion boulevard, Rua Oscar Freire.

Melissa Nation theme, with novelties throughout the

taken to Galeria Melissa São Paulo

The façade itself reproduces the

semester.

for display. The ten most emble-

colorful cubes which composed the

matic compositions were shown in

catwalk, now a true work of art

Find out the closests store near to you in Brazil:

the venue until May 2014, drawing

reaching a new public!

www.melissa.com.br/clube-melissa

In order to celebrate the success

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

NEW GENERATION MELISSA’S PEACE “ARMY” GAINS NEW STYLES FOR THE SEASON THAT ARE TRULY BREATHTAKING. ONE CUTER THAN THE OTHER! WHY WOULD SOMEONE WANT TO BE A GROWNUP WHEN IT IS POSSIBLE TO LIVE IN THIS DELICIOUS WORLD OF DREAMS? PHOTOS AND CREATIVE DIRECTION KARIN BERNDL SEE THE MAKING OF ON YOUTUBE/MELISSACHANNEL Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase

MINI MELISSA SUGAR RAIN

MINI MELISSA FURADINHA

MINI MELISSA ULTRAGIRL BOW

MINI MELISSA ULTRAGIRL BEAR

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

MINI MELISSA SPIDER

MINI MELISSA ULTRAGIRL HAPPY EASTER

MINI MELISSA SUGAR RAIN

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BABY + KIDS

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

MINI MELISSA FURADINHA So cute you could just eat up all that Vitamin C!

MINI MELISSA ULTRAGIRL BOW

This season’s Mini Melissa Furadinha has a prin-

The doll-style slippers feature beautiful bows

ted citric fruit segment, which forms

that color match with the insole. What about

a small flower on the insole!

navy/pink for a birthday, and beige/red for

Available colors are black,

school? Versatile and confortable, it is both

blue, green and pink.

MINI MELISSA SPIDER

perfect for a party or a playdate!

#LOVE #PRECIOUSGIFT #MYLITTLEONE

#YUM #PICNIC #HEALTHY

One of the most entertaining versions of the Mini Melissa Spider gets a smile printed on one foot and a little heart printed on the other one, referring to the videogame aesthetics from the 90s! Available colors are transparent, black, white, blue and pink.

Joyful feet for the little girls!

#PLAY #VIDEOGAME #FUNFUNFUN

KIDS VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ANGLOMANIA + MINI MELISSA ULTRAGIRL The new version of one of the most desired models by the sweet bees now comes in red, black, gold, pearly pink and pearly white, plus a bow and a tartan insole. It’s a little gem to complement the look for a special occasion such as a get-together, a wedding or a holiday party.

#BABYPRINCESS #CELEBRATION #SWEETNESS

MINI MELISSA CAMPANA ZIG ZAG This model features a new special palette for the young Melissa fans (red, blue, gold, pink and silver, all glittered), it is versatile and can be used in several occasions. And as the model is an icon of the adult line, moms and their daughters can be stylish together every single day.

#STYLE #MOMMY&DAUGHTER #MELISSAICONS

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

A hit for children with numbering from 26 to 32, Melissa’s Kids version presents 2 amazing options in the latest collection. Melissa Ultragirl [1] is flocked and features a charming insole with colorful checked shaped print. Melissa Campana Zig Zag [2] comes in silver, black, gold, red and blue, flocked in red and blue.

#DESIGNMUSEUM #CREATIVITY #COLORFULYOUTH

1

2

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

ANIMAL LOVERS

HAPPY EASTER

A rhinoceros, a bunny, a teddy bear and a kitten came together to create one of the most fascinating set for the little girls: Mini Melissa Animal Lovers. Apart from the Rhino, which comes as a bootie, all the others are doll-style slippers. In each packaging, the kids will find a sticker featuring the same animal. In the stores, moms will receive a paper card resembling a picture frame with the scenery from the box, so her little girls may place their new sticker, and then complement with the other animals! Then just give it a frame and voilá!

Easter will be much sweeter this year! Mini Melissa Ultragirl now has a new version with a bunny face and an insole with a pattern of little carrots that will fascinate the brand’s fans from all ages. They are featured in gray and pink. Perfect and super comfy for the little one’s to play, wear with a dress in a special occasion, and the coolest footwear option for the Easter egg hunt! Just picture the little

Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase.

eyes shinning bright!

MELISSA MINIATURES This season, Melissa is releasing its first set of miniatures, just like other major names that continue to innovate in design, such as Vitra. It’s the Design Collection, featuring creations by the Campana Brothers, Zaha Hadid, Gaetano Pesce and Karim Hashid. They are true objects of art and a symbol of the desire created by the brand’s unique designs. True decoration hits!!!

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As a designer, I value creativity, ingenuity, and newness in product…Melissa shoe collections continue to amaze and inspire me.

The bright colors, innovative use of “jelly” material, and unique aesthetic truly embrace “fashion as art” JODI BEEN, 36 ACCESSORIES DESIGNER

USA

ITALY Melissa was a pioneer in linking different tastes and origins in the name of a perfect quality and price ratio, breaking boundaries with an uncommon materials.

Their creative designs still remain true to their origins.

Melissa is careful, safe and full of fun. I love the collaborations, especially Vivienne Westwood, the queen of punk, designing Lady Dragons with hearts and balls! I love the feeling of opening the box with my new pair. Each single shopping is like a celebration for each women, still a little girl inside.

MARTA DUDZIAK, 33 WORKS AT KIKIMORA MAGAZINE

Interviews Duda Porto de Souza

MARIA BELEM GOMEZ HERMIDA, 24 STUDENT

ARGENTINA

Melissa shoes are born from a material that allow us to dream in our own creations.

Its vibrant colors make us want to eat them! It is a genuinely brazilian and pioneer brand in its segment.

ISABELLA DE CASTRO, 25 JEWELLERY DESIGNER

BRAZIL PLASTIC DREAMS ASKED FANS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE WHY THEY IDENTIFIED THEMSELVES WITH MELISSA’S NATION. AND YOU, WHY DO YOU IDENTIFY YOURSELF? JOIN IN THE FUN! MELISSA IS PROUD TO HAVE YOU ON BOARD!

Welcome to Melissa’s Nation

Melissa is a shoe brand that is full of innovation!

I can’t resist it.

POLAND

MARIA ZAARUOLO, 38 ARCHITECT

Each Melissa is as unique as our identity.

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

KIM SHIN YOUNG, 26 PUBLIC RELATIONS

SOUTH KOREA Like a bubblegum, we will never forget the flavor when it first touches our tongue.

In the deepest core of our heart, the flavor stays. Just like Melissa candy shoes.

HONG KONG Melissa is all about fashion “scents” to me!

TOH YEW TAT, 25 AND TAN YU CHING, 25 PUBLIC RELATIONS

JO LEE, 25 FASHION AND LIFESTYLE EDITOR OF SHE.COM

SINGAPORE

INDONESIA I would buy Melissa for the scent alone. My whole wardrobe smells like plastic sweets.

JODY BARENDSE, 31 HAIR SALON OWNER

SOUTH AFRICA

I’ve loved Melissa since I was in Junior high, Melissa is just so youthful and comfortable. The Melissa Nation Collection is definitely something to look forward.

KATHYA DEALICA, 22 FASHION BUSINESS STUDENT

AUSTRALIA In line with existing Melissa shoes, the Melissa Nation collection will allow me to look stylish and professional, but more than anything else, feel comfortable and therefore confident; all the while, still let me show the fun side of me through the cute and beautiful shapes and colors.

EMILY CHUNG, 33 UNIVERSITY LECTURER

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OP ART EXPLORING ONE OF THE STRONGEST TRENDS IN FASHION TODAY, MELISSA TRIGGERS THE 60S VOCABULARY WITH POLKADOTS, STRIPES AND COLORS IN ORDER TO STYLE CONTEMPORARY TAILORING: THE RESULT GOES WAY BEYOND GEOMETRY – IT’S PURE FUN! PHOTOGRAPHER MATT IRWIN ASSISTED BY RUSSELL HIGTON STYLIST ANNA TREVELYAN ASSISTED BY ROSIE WILLIAMS & YAO YAO LIN SET DESIGN THOMAS PETHERICK MODELS YULIA TERENTIEVA @ PREMIER & BECCA HORN @ ELITE DIGI TECH DAVID ADAMS

SEE THE MAKING OF ON YOUTUBE/MELISSACHANNEL Some products may undergo color distortion or not be made available for purchase

Shirt & Skirt KTZ, Necklace stylist’s own, Bra Agent Provocateur, Earrings & Ring Maria Black, Tights stylist’s own MELISSA CUTTING

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Melissa Nation Winter 2014

Left: Bra Jean Paul Gaultier @ Rellik, Skirt Sister by Sibling, Belt Francesca Marotta, Tights stylist’s own MELISSA BALLET HEEL Right: Bra Atsuko Kudo, Skirt Sister

by Sibling, Belt stylist’s own, Tights Stylist’s Own MELISSA BALLET

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Jumpsuit Armani @ Rellik, Top (worn underneath) Kansa @ Rellik, Belt and Tights stylist’s own MELISSA FLIP

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118

Jacket Jean Paul Gaultier @ House of Liza, Shirt Comme Des Garçons @ House of Liza, Skirt Jean Paul Gaultier @ Rellik, Sunglasses General Eyewear, Tights stylist’s own + MELISSA IT

Left: Top Martina Spetlova, Skirt Kiko for Opening Ceremony, Socks stylist’s own + MELISSA BOHO Right: Top Vivetta, Shorts Escada @ Rellik, Socks Happy Socks, Hat Stephen Jones @ Rellik + ELISSA VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ANGLOMANIA + MELISSA SATYR

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u.F.o.

Text Casey Legler Photos Brian Anderson

In this concrete city I call home, tucked away for dinner in a small restaurant under fairy lights, sometimes, out of the corner of my eye, I’ll see a unicorn. Sometimes, if I’m lucky, I’ll get to call them: family. Over the years, I’ve accumulated this working family, a loose and fierce, brave collective of change-makers (and they have collected me): they are legislators in Australia, fierce non-profit organizers in Africa, radical farmers living off the grid in the France, journalists in Washington DC, and innovative designers tucked away in Amsterdam. This is my family - my chosen family - we cross borders, we cross nationalities, we cross mediums. With them in mind, I walk on set everyday - they are my people. A small part of a larger whole, I do none of my work alone and instead bring with me this motley collective of unique individuals, all of them walking with courage, grace and dignity.

Sometimes, if geography and luck collide, we’ll find ourselves in the same spaces, on the same continent, and in the same time zone, and late into the night, sifting through books, movies and each others brains, crossing the mediums of art-making and cooking, writing, photography and film, we make, create and work together. We are the large collective.

It was on one such lucky day that I met Max and Margaret. Similarly adept at crossing and defying genres and mediums, we spoke the same language.

Over the next few months we started sharing meals together, seeing shows together, watching late night movies together and with our tall friend Brian – chatting about sustainability and dreams – we started hatching plans together. In Max and Margaret I met the creators of ‘The Three Bits’. Tired of the status quo, they single-handedly created an irreverent, unique and genre defying web-series. This ‘Quentin Tarantino meets the ‘L’ Word’ gem, based on friendship, sex, and crazy acts of stupidity, follows Roman, Henry and Madison Bits as they maneuver through very different worlds. The show is fiercely, and independently, produced in Brooklyn. A new season comes out this spring - and this is just one of their projects...

And so - in typical collective fashion - we’ll go to a lecture together this weekend, I’ll show up as a gangster in ‘The Three Bits’, we’ll share more meals, talk late into the night and work on that ‘next thing’. And like ‘The Three Bits’, if we’re very lucky, on extraordinary days, we’ll get to share

Margaret Singer, Max Freeman and Casey Legler in collaboration with Brian Anderson.

in glorious acts of stupidity.

MELISSA MAGAZINE

Winter 2014

PLASTIC DREAMS MELISSA NATION WINTER 2014

MELISSA NATION Celebrating diversity and multiculturalism, Melissa’s Winter 2014 collection unites the world’s ethnicities. The search for our essence is transformed into collective ideals.

+ CHLOE NORGAARD NEW GLOBAL FASHION STAR INSPIRES 2014’s LOVE ZEITGEIST + I LOVE MELISSA TRAVELER, GUIDE OR LOCAL: WHO ARE YOU IN MELISSA’S NATION? + ROAMING FREE IT’S ALL ABOUT TRAVELING (LIVING WITHOUT FRONTIERS) + GLOBAL AESTHETICS RYAN TRECARTIN, RIRKRIT TIRAVANIJA AND BERNADETTE CORPORATION