Fashion’s biggest name, the German designer Karl Lagerfeld launches this season four styles created for MELISSA, photographs our cover and an exclusive editorial, becoming part of the brand’s history!!!
CineMelissa Plastic Dreams
★ A HISTORY OF CINEMA ★ THE ERA OF FASHION FILMS ★ ROMANTIC MOVIES ★ you in the director’s chair ★ THE GLAMOUR OF THE RED CARPET ★ bollywood OR Hollywood? ★ cinemelissa: become A STAR ★ the aesthetics of brazilian cinema
Melissa Magazine
Winter 2013
Cara Delevingne by Karl Lagerfeld
CINEMelISSA winter 2013
The designer’s sketch for the style Melissa Glam + Karl Lagerfeld
102, GREENE ST.
SOHO, NEW YORK
www.melissa.com.br
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Plastic Dreams
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
110 14 KARL’S SUPERWOMAN: CARA! Who better to introduce the partnership with Karl than fashion’s hottest model Cara Delevingne? 78 PIN-UP CULTURE Immerse yourself in a different era, with hits from the new CineMelissa collection 110 TOO CUTE to be true! It’s tea time for our little ballerinas as they present
Cinema
some of the brand’s most memorable products in the first Mini Melissa editorial.
32 Romance Cinema’s
Go behind the scenes
The reinvention of
gets inspiration from the
beloved genre and its
of the new collection
Brazilian cinema
CineMelissa collection
landmark moments
Holly, Nolly, Bolly
52
Young & beautiful
68
Karlisms Pearls of
94
Facts and Trivia
The leading countries
Girls that put their
wisdom from the
A cinema quiz to
in film production!
imagination in action!
influential designer
test your knowledge
Timeline An amazing
56
Women power
70
New era
96
Mondo Melissa
journey through the
Portraying facts with
Fashion films
The stars of the
history of cinema
an unique sensibility
are here to stay!
new collection
Glow The influence
58
The world on your feet
72
Inez & Vinoodh
106
72 Happy Birthday! Galeria
of the Red Carpet,
Karl Lagerfeld reveals
Duo defines fahion’s
Melissa NY celebrates its
fashion’s true catwalk
his cultural favorites
new moment
one year anniversary
C’est chic! Iconic
60
Icon The legendary
76
Be a movie director
109
70
62
36
still from the movie
92
52
Social Media Melissa
costumes that made
McGinnis in an interview
An iPhone and an idea
has over 1 million Likes
history on the screens
to PLASTIC DREAMS
are all you need!
on Facebook!!!
melanie ward
Attraction McGinnis
48 robert mcginnis
46
62
dr.macro.com
44
New aesthetics
courtesy of the distributor
40
48
vivi bacco
36
Lights, camera, action!
heir
32
46
courtesy maria andreeva
Winter 2013
karin berndl
karl lagerfeld
sandrine dulermo & michael labica
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Plastic Dreams
CineMelissa Winter 2013
editor’s letter Erika Palomino
CineMelissa 09
CineMelissa 09
Winter 2013
Creating Dreams
Editor-in-chief Erika Palomino Editor Duda Porto de Souza Contributing Editor Suzy Capó Associate Producer Vivi Bacco
ladies and gentlemen, here’s the 9th edition of Plastic Dreams
T
pedro ferraro
ART & DESIGN Graphic design Ana Starling (BIZU Design com Conteúdo) Art Director Andrea Crepaldi Aiub Designer Ana Marconato Art Coordinator Joana Brasileiro Digital retouching Vivi Bacco Revision Patrick Washburn
Cover
Now your new Melissa is the
how come Melissa
lens for you to view the world
had not yet used
and express yourself. Drama, sci-fi, romance,
collection? After all, cinema,
suspense and comedy are film
just as Melissa, is all about
genres, and they are all repre-
fun and entertainment. It’s a
sented in the color palette of
way of expressing yourself and
the CineMelissa Winter 2013 col-
discovering other worlds, being
lection as well as in the moods
simultaneously local and uni-
of each style. And you can see
versal. With movies, we allow
all of them in the 9th edition of
ourselves to dream. From the
PLASTIC DREAMS, especially in
movie stars, we get inspiration.
the fashion shoot that evokes
Life imitates art, and the movies
the ultra-feminine style of the
reflect life.
Pin-Ups and in master Robert McGinnis’ amazing campaign
ated a real mythology, made
illustrations. Total glamour, in an
of stories shared by billions of
atmosphere of retro sensuality.
Alexandra Farah, Andrea Fulerton, André Barcinski, Anna Cofone, Cheryl Konteh, Duda Leite, Eduardo Jordão de Magalhães, Heidi Taylor, Ilana Rehavia, Jude Singleton, Karin Berndl, Kerry Eward, Lica Fensome, Marcio Madeira, Neil Stuart, Paul Marangos, Pedro Ferraro, Robert McGinnis, Sandrine Dulermo, Sergio Amaral, Suzy Capó, Terry Barber, Tom Ellis, Marina Pecoraro and Michael Labica.
people, recreations of reality
special thanks Caroline Lebar and Karl Lagerfeld team; Kyle Duke and to all @ Grendene – Melissa.
Reflections of mirrors with moving images at the legendary Cinecittà studios, in Rome.
This issue of PLASTIC DREAMS
that become credible through
also marks the debut of Me-
technology, each time the
lissa’s partnership with Paris
screen lights up. This idea is
based, German designer Karl
from the Russian revolutionary
Lagerfeld. It also illustrates
Trotsky, in the 1920’s, and it still
how cinema, the theme of the
applies these days.
current collection, is present in
Since the start of cinematog-
kn obe l
PLASTIC DREAMS IS AVAILABLE ON THE APP STORE AND ON THE ANDROID MARKET, AND ALSO ON FACEBOOK, INSTAGRAM, PINTEREST AND TWITTER @SIGAMELISSA. OFFICIAL VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE. COM/MELISSACHANNEL (more on Melissa’s social media on page 109)
seemed obvious:
contributors
ju liana
in this issue Agnelle agnelle.fr Andres Sarda andressarda.com Atsuko Kudo atsukokudo.com Balmain balmain.com Barbara Bui barbarabui.com Betony Vernon betonyvernon.com Bordelle bordelle.co.uk Cadolle cadolle.com Causse causse-gantier.fr Crézus crezus.fr Démonia demonia.com Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com Emanuel Ungaro ungaro.com Eres eresparis.com I.D Sarrierri sarrieri.com Jean Colonna jeancolonna.fr KARL LAGERFELD karl.com Maison Close maison-close.com Melissa melissa.com.br Mise en Cage misencage.com Miu Miu miumiu.com Muriel gants-muriel.fr Paco Rabanne pacorabanne.com Paul & Joe paulandjoe.com Paul Smith paulsmith.co.uk Philip Treacy philiptreacy.co.uk Phyléa couturecorset.net Piers Atkinson piersatkinson.com Roberto Cavalli robertocavalli.com Stephen Jones stephenjonesmillinery.com Top Shop topshop.com Varley varley.com Versace versace.com Wolford wolford.com
mind and a camera in hand”.
The cult of the movies cre-
VIVI BACCO
karl lagerfeld
karl lagerfeld
Cara Delevingne and MELISSA incense + karl lagerfeld Full story and credits on p.14.
famous by saying “An idea in
that it almost
cinema as the theme of a
Graphic production Sergio Leite Printed by Posigraf
Cara Delevingne wears Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld
he idea is so good
many facets of everyday culture
raphy, moving pictures have
and how the World of Melissa
always enchanted audiences.
is tapping into this trend. Here,
Today they are much more
the star is You! Fill your life
accessible through the new
with glamour and glitter with
digital formats, both in produc-
our new models, choose your
tion and distribution. In Brazil,
best outfits and transform every
director Glauber Rocha, leader
sidewalk in the world into a red
of the “Cinema Novo”, became
carpet! Action!
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Plastic Dreams
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Dream team check out the team of stars that came together to create one of the most exciting editions of plastic dreams magazine.
Neil STUART
Cheryl KONTEH
JUDE SINGLETON
The last few months have been very exciting for fashion director Neil Stuart. His assignments took him from high fashion to cool denim, from advertising to music. Neil’s been working with the new incarnation of pop trio Sugababes, now called Mutya Keisha Siobhan. He’s also styled campaigns for jeans brand Superfine and new eveningwear designer Marina Qureshi. “It’s been a period of real extremes and I’m expecting exciting things for 2013”. Neil’s portfolio goes on and on and includes heavyweights such as magazines “Numéro” and “Vogue Italia”, brands Hugo Boss and Levi’s and music stars like Sting and Morcheeba. It’s not difficult to understand his appeal. While prioritizing prints and colours over passing trends, Neil creates enduring images that always manage to be current and timeless. Favorite film: “Volver”, by Pedro Almodóvar.
English fashion editor Cheryl Konteh has been busy lately with some exciting projects, like working with actress Kate Winslet and contributing to the “Saturday Telegraph Magazine”. Her enviable list of cool jobs includes styling some of the world’s most glamorous stars, like Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Daniel Craig, Tilda Swinton and Jessica Chastain. She can work her magic whether preparing her clients for magazine shoots, TV appearances or the most fabulous night of the year, the Oscars. Such talent has also captured the attention of top photographers and she’s collaborated with Ellen Von Unwerth, Patrick Demarchelier, Rankin and David Bailey. Dividing her time between London, New York and Los Angeles, Cheryl is always on the go, and loves it. “My life philosophy is work hard, play hard and pray hard”, she says. Favorite film: “Casino”, by Martin Scorsese.
English set designer Jude Singleton trained as an artist but was seduced by the more regimented nature of creating sets for films and photo shoots. “As a designer, you are creating something within the parameters of the client’s vision, whereas as an artist, when there are no boundaries, it is hard to know when to start a project.” He discovered the profession when a neighbor, who was a film director, started offering him little bits of set work. His career took off from there and nowadays Jude works on shoots and films, for clients that range from the BBC to “Wallpaper*” magazine. His rule of thumb for making a great set is to search for perfection and, of course, beauty. “As a general rule, if it is beautiful, then you can’t go wrong!” He proved his point with the brilliant touches brought to the pages of PLASTIC DREAMS, where his idea of “fantasy and Hollywood romance” included the unforgettable red Corvette. Favorite film: “House of Flying Daggers”, by Zhang Yimou.
Karin BERNDL
Terry BARBER
Anna COFONE
Paul MARANGOS
Known for her amazing work with still life images, Austrian photographer Karin Berndl has been also turning her talents to photographing children. “They are so natural in front of the camera and a lot of the time give you special and unexpectedly beautiful moments which you could never plan for”, she tells us. Karin studied photography in Vienna and soon moved to London. In 2009, the Association of Photographers named her Photographer of the Year. Besides her work with kids, her recent jobs include the Christmas campaign for British department store John Lewis, some beauty shots for “Cent” magazine and a striking still life editorial for “Tatler Hong Kong”. Her inspirations include Disney animation films and old black and white movies, as well as paintings by artists such as Rembrandt and Hammershøi. Her masculine, graphic style is perfectly balanced by the girlie vision of stylist Heidi Taylor, with whom she’s been working for almost ten years. Favorite film: “Dancer in the Dark” or “The Third Man”, by Lars von Trier.
Make up artist Terry Barber is one of the most respected professionals in the industry. As MAC’s Director of Artistry, he has more than a helping hand in defining what will be hot in the coming seasons. So when he speaks, we take note. “For the future, I see products that get closer and closer to the textures of the real face, a more invisible transformation”, he reveals. With a client base too long to list, Terry’s most memorable job recently was doing singer Grace Jone’s make up for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert, in London. “Getting her to the stage in a golf buggy with a huge headdress was probably the craziest, but most fabulous, moment in my career.” Terry’s been working with make up since the 90s, a passion that started when, as a New Romantic, he was painting his own face to go to clubs. “A make up artist should be a storyteller, capturing some kind of spirit in their subject. You have to give beauty a soul.” Favorite film: “All About Eve”, by Joseph L. Mankiewicz.
British hair stylist Anna Cofone has always nurtured a creative side. With a background in performing arts, she used to sing in a jazz band. It was during her art studies that she first came across the wonderful universe of hair, especially theatre and period looks. The transition from front stage to behind the scenes seems to have been a smart decision. Since starting her apprenticeship in a salon, 13 years ago, Anna’s star has only risen. She was soon seduced by another side of hairdressing and decided her passion was out of the salon and in the pages of magazines. Nowadays, she works on high fashion shoots for cool magazines like “Numéro”, “Interview”, “Vogue” and, of course, PLASTIC DREAMS. And Anna has also returned somewhat back to her musical roots as hairstylist to Lana del Rey. She’s been working with the singer since her first album and is now preparing to embark on a European tour with her. Favorite film: “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, by Blake Edwards.
Editor Paul Marangos is a wizard with composition and special effects. Since starting in the industry in his native South Africa, back in 1992, he has worked on giant projects such as the film “Hannibal” and music videos for the likes of Björk, Kylie Minogue, Madonna, Goldfrapp, Oasis and Radiohead. His job took him around the world, working in Johannesburg, New York and London. In the past six years, Paul’s been concentrating on high end commercials but finds himself more and more seduced by the universe of fashion and beauty. Whether working with moving images or stills, Paul’s talent for detail has him on high demand. “When I started, we used film and there was no Photoshop. It’s made me very visually literate over the years, as you had to plan very well ahead.” It is this perfect eye that Paul is bringing to the PLASTIC DREAMS team, where he advises on the composition and positioning of our amazing photo shoots. Favorite film: “2001: A Space Odyssey”, by Stanley Kubrick.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
suzy capó
Andrea FULERTON
Duda LEITE
André BARCINSKI
Marina PECORARO
Alexandra FARAH
Suzy Capó always wanted to be a dancer and studied to be a journalist. Attempting to unite the two she did her MA in Performance Studies at New York University. It was during this time she discovered a new passion: cinema. Her jump from the body to moving images happened when she worked as an assistant curator of dance at The Kitchen, an institution with one of the largest collections of video art in the USA. Her next step was becoming a guest curator of Mix New York, a cinema event that became the origin of the Mix Brasil Festival, which she’s the co-founder. Since then she has worked in various film festivals both in Brazil and abroad. Enthusiastic about fashion, cinema and Melissa, we could not have done this issue without having Suzy as our guest editor. FAVORITE FILM: “Russian Ark”, by Aleksandr Sokurov.
Irish nail technician Andrea Fulerton took a roundabout path to her current career. After trying to follow in her family’s footsteps and run a pub, she dabbled in retail and even accounting. She was considering trying her luck as a flight attendant when her mum intervened. “She reminded me that I used to love painting nails as a child”. Nowadays, she divides her time between London and Chicago, where she lives with her American husband. Her long list of clients includes Sharon Stone, Kim Catrall, Cate Blanchett, Penelope Cruz, Britney Spears and Liza Minelli. “I’ve always worked really fast and I’m known in the industry for my speed.” She also has her own line of nail products, Andrea Fulerton Nail Boutique. The nail technician flew to London especially for our shoot. “I love working with PLASTIC DREAMS as it’s such a great opportunity to be creative, go wild and think outside the box.” Favorite film: “The Wizard of Oz”, by Victor Fleming.
The journalist, curator and filmmaker Duda Leite was practically born to be a contributor of PLASTIC DREAMS. “I’ve always been fascinated by plastic objects, from Pink Flamingos to Little Buddhas. And I always like Melissa’s concept of creating useful objects with a bold design.” he adds. His fascination with Pop Culture is evident in his films, whether in his short “Serial Clubber Killer”, inspired by the films of John Waters and Russ Meyer, or in his feature documentary “Tikimentary – In Search Of The Lost Paradise”, about the “Tiki” lifestyle. His passion for music videos is also notorious and he logs many hours on the Internet. In this issue, Duda researched new applications for smart phones and high-end digital cameras for our readers that want to become filmmakers, both high and low-tech. favorite film: “The Trip”, by Roger Corman.
Journalist André Barcinski, who graduated from Universidade Federal Fluminense (UFF), writes about music, literature and cinema, and has a very successful career. At twenty-something he won the Jabuti award for his book “Barulho – Uma Viagem Pelo Underground do Rock Americano / Noise – a Journey through the American Underground Rock”. Originally launched in Portuguese, it is one of the best books of its kind. Almost 10 years later, in 2001, he won an award at the Sundance Film Festival for his documentary “Maldito” about Coffin Joe, Brazil’s “cult” director José Mojica Marins. Barcinski’s interests don’t stop there – he even ventured in the world of popular gastronomy, with his “Guia da Culinária Ogra / Guide to the Ogre Cuisine”. In PLASTIC DREAMS he tells the story of the three largest centers of film production in the world. Epic! Favorite film: “Awakening of the Beast”, by José Mojica Marins.
If Marina Pecoraro were a film genre she would be a road movie. Not that she has traveled so many miles, but since she graduated in journalism from the Universidade Metodista in São Paulo, she has already mapped her craft: she wrote for websites, produced documentaries, edited publications, did field research – always in the areas of communication and health. She also has a taste for traveling, making conversation, and above all a fondness for the characters she meets on the road of life. For this reason, we invited Marina to profile for PLASTIC DREAMS 09 young talents in filmmaking who are attracting worldwide attention. Favorite film: “My Blueberry Nights”, by Wong Kar Wai.
Fashion journalist Alexandra Farah has a lot in common with this issue of PLASTIC DREAMS. She is one of a handful of people in Brazil with a deep understanding of fashion and cinema – industries both based on glamour. Columnist at “Vogue Brasil” (she writes the Miss V section) and at Band News (Fashion and Business), Alexandra was also the curator of the (now extinct) Film Fashion Festival, which showed for the first time in Brazil the documentary “Lagerfeld Confidential” directed by Rodolphe Marconi about Karl Lagerfeld, Melissa’s new partner. So whom else could we have asked to write the article about the iconic costumes of cinema? From the sumptuous dresses that made history to looks that are still to come, Alexandra dives into Hollywood’s closet and talks about the clothes that we would love to wear in a fantasy world. Favorite film: “Rear Window”, by Alfred Hitchcock.
WELCOME MR. KL!!!
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
As from March 2013, you’ll be able to choose from FOUR exclusive Melissa shoe styles designed by Karl Lagerfeld, a man who has become an Icon in the fashion world like no other. We are proud to announce Melissa’s newest partner.
“T
his is one of the most exciting
footwear, plus an elaborate selection of bags
products that many women will be very
collaborations that our company
and small leather goods.
happy to wear”.
has ever started” says Paulo Pedó,
general manager of Melissa.
We are thrilled about the launch of the
ested in the world around him, Karl Lagerfeld
Karl Lagerfeld brand in Brazil through
works with a variety of prestigious brands on
his collaboration with Melissa. He will
the 21st century, has widened his kingdom
high-profile projects. His collaborations have
produce mini-collections for four
by joining the world of Melissa. Lagerfeld’s
included St Dupont, HOGAN, Shu Uemura and
consecutive seasons.
great talent, synonymous with couture, will
for the first time with a Brazilian company,
be translated into a shoe line, expanding our
Melissa. His genius perspective has also won
consumer base and making his brand more
the world by means of campaigns he has
“Karl Lagerfeld, the most iconic designer of
accessible for all”, complements Pedó. Besides creating for luxury brands such as Chanel and Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld has launched his own fashion house. Under his creative direction; the KARL LAGERFELD brand portfolio is rooted in Kreative, iconiK, Kool The designer`s sketch for the style Melissa Incense + Karl Lagerfeld
Creative to his core and passionately inter-
and accessible-luxe apparel and accessories. The fashion house produces ready-to-wear for men and women, watches, eyewear,
You can check photographed. Very satisfied with the collaboration, Pier out the first Paolo Righi, CEO of the KARL LAGERFELD collection in an brand, says “Melissa has been great in translating Karl’s inspirations exclusive editorial and designs in genuinely karl Lagerfeld shot for fun and fashionable PLASTIC DREAMS, featuring his young muse Cara Delevingne.
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Plastic Dreams
Q&A WITH KL
FACTS ABOUT KL Karl is a fan of photographer Helmut Newton. Karl has a bookshop called 7L on the left bank of Paris.
Inspired by the Brazilian joie de vivre, Karl Lagerfeld, one of global fashion’s biggest icons, reveals his creative process when creating for Melissa and his enthusiasm for a country he knows little about. Brazil welcomes him with arms wide open!
Karl launched his own brand in 1984. Karl directed actress Rachel Bilson in tHREE publicity films.
Photos Getty Images and karl.com
O
ne of the greatest designers
brand and for a country that he doesn’t
of our time, Karl Lagerfeld is
know very well. “I hope (the collection)
well-known in the fashion
has some freshness”, says the designer,
world as the master of
whose inspiration was the Brazilian joie
reinvention, having repeatedly
de vivre.
transformed himself as well as the labels
design clothes: with feeling. I express in my
his collaboration with Melissa even
design, but what is not analyzed is what
more exciting. Many questions were
I design. I am not a marketing person”,
raised around his creative process while
explains Karl Lagerfeld to PLASTIC DREAMS.
designing the four styles that will launch
Karl Lagerfeld’s success and influence are
the Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld collection
not only due to his amazing technical skills
in a partnership that will last for four
and working energy, but also to the fearless
consecutive seasons.
manner he faces new challenges and to his
living in Paris since he was fourteen, says
provocative personality. When he accepted the invitation to take
he had total creative freedom to design
over the House of Chanel, in 1982, there
for the brand, having only to adapt
were many people who were skeptical
himself to small technical differences of
about the possibility of reviving a brand
producing in plastic. “I had never worked
whose elegance and dignity were over-
with plastic in this way before. It’s not
ruled by jeans and miniskirts in the 1960s.
the classic technique, I am used to work-
When Karl Lagerfeld showed, in the first five
ing with more traditional techniques
years as the label’s Creative Director, that
for Fendi, Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld
he could in fact bring the camellias back to
shoes”, reveals Karl Lagerfeld.
life, some critics thought that he was going
Yet another challenge was to create, for the first time, for a typically Brazilian
Karl illustrated an edition of the children’s classic “The Emperor’s New Clothes”.
“I design footwear the same way I
at his command. This naturally makes
The German designer who has been
Karl speaks many languages.
too far. What few could predict was that he would go much further.
On this page, right, from top to bottom: Karl in April 1979, when he designed for Chloé, and self-portraits with his unmistakable traits. Above, Karl in the 60s. Opposite page, clockwise: Karl is photographed in a bistro in 1992, the designer in november 2013, shooting in NY for his men’s clothing line and his sketch for the model Melissa Ginga + Karl Lagerfeld.
Karl published “The Karl Lagerfeld Diet” after loosing 90 pounds.
Karl Lagerfeld is considered by “Vogue UK” as a barometer of the 21 century st
zeitgeist, an industry within himself. Those are not words picked to fill in pages, but parameters provided to the magazine readers of the designer’s relevance in the
other activities, demonstrating the same
contemporary world, transcending ideas of
excellence as a photographer, illustrator,
what fashion is about.
director, publisher, and even a diet guru!
Having conquered the catwalk for
Karl Lagerfeld told PLASTIC DREAMS
Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his own named
that the partnership with Melissa will
brand, and with successful partnerships
help him to get to know Brazil and its
with brands such as Shu Uemura and
industry better. Considering his ability to
now Melissa, the designer, who started
understand and transform the world in
as an assistant to Pierre Balmain after
which he lives in, it wouldn’t come as a
winning a design contest sponsored by the
surprise if the designer would eventually
International Wool Secretariat, also channels
reinvent the Samba runway or Carnaval
his inexhaustible creative energy into
in Bahia.
Karl supported the legalization of gay marriage in France by putting two brides together on the catwalk. Karl owns more than 100 iPods.
Plastic Dreams
14
Karl’s superwoman:
Cara! phOTography KARL LAGERFELD fashion editor LEILA SMARA HAIR STYLIST SAM MC KNIGHT MAKE UP ARTIST EMMANUEL SAMMARTINO ASSISTANTS STYLIST SALOME BERNATAS AND MELANIE BOUGOIN
Due to print reproduction some styles may have color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available.
Who better to introduce the partnership with Karl than fashion’s hottest model Cara Delevingne? Chosen and photographed by the fashion mogul himself exclusively for PLASTIC DREAMS, the result is Like the ice cream heel he created for MELISSA! Yummmm!!!!
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Fishnet cashmere 15 sweater Jean Colonna Lace waspie Andres Sarda Lace and lycra corset skirt Cadolle Fishnet tights Wolford Leather mask Démonia Leather and spike necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld
Patent leather trench coatPlastic KarlDreams Lagerfeld Dress with elastic strap and harness Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather gloves Causse Fishnet tights Wolford Leather cuff in the hair Barbara Bui Leather and spike necklace DĂŠmonia
Melissa MELISSIMA + karl lagerfeld
16
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Fishnet and satin bra Wolford 17 Silk satin waspie Cadolle Glitter velvet high brief Cadolle Studded leather chocker necklace DĂŠmonia Fishnet tights Wolford
Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld
Leather and spike chokers Plastic Dreams necklaces Démonia
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld
18
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Latex dress Phyléa Cotton and 19 satin bra Maison Close Leather headpiece Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather and spike chocker necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver Cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld
Plastic Dreams
20
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Vinyl short dress Phyléa 21 Vinyl jacket Karl Lagerfeld Leather and spike necklace Démonia Silver chocker necklace Betony Vernon Leather cuff in the hair Barbara Bui Fishnet tights Wolford Rings Vintage
Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld
Vinyl dress Démonia Patent leather gloves Agnelle Studded leather choker necklace Démonia Fishnet tights Wolford
Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld
Plastic Dreams
Latex dress Phyléa 22 Cotton and satin bra Maison Close Leather headpiece Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather and spike chocker necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver Cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage
Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Lace cropped top Cadolle 23 Vinyl corset Démonia Vinyl zipped skirt Phyléa Leather and spike necklace Démonia Silver chocker necklace Betony Vernon Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld
Silk jacket with leather Plastic Dreams collar Karl Lagerfeld Silk satin waspie Cadolle Fishnet and satin bra Wolford Lycra brief Eres Leather mittens with strass Karl Lagerfeld Studded leather chocker necklace Démonia Fishnet tights Wolford
Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld
24
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Leather strap 25 bra Démonia Strapeless lycra bra Wolford Leather harness Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Satin silk skirt Karl Lagerfeld Fishnet tights Wolford Leather cuff in the hair Barbara Bui Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon
Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld
Plastic Dreams
Latex trench coat Phyléa 26 Vinyl corset Démonia Lycra brief Eres Fishnet tights Wolford Silver chocker collar Betony Vernon Right hand: Metal and spike ring and bangles, Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings vintage
Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld
CineMelissa Inverno 2013
Latex dress Phyléa Cotton and 27 satin bra Maison Close Leather headpiece Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather and spike chocker necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver Cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage
Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld
Plastic Dreams
28
Silk jacket with leather CineMelissa Inverno 2013 collar Karl Lagerfeld Leather mittens with strass Karl Lagerfeld Studded leather chocker necklace DĂŠmonia
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld
Leather corset and fishnet bustier Cadolle Fishnet gloves Muriel Leather and spike necklace DĂŠmonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles CrĂŠzus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings vintage
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld melissa incense + karl lagerfeld
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Plastic Dreams
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
The fun and wacky world of Cara Delevingne By Ilana Rehavia, London Photos @caradelevingne
C
ara Delevingne is not only
online. There’s Cara dressed in a
the model of the moment
hotdog “onesie”, the one-piece
but also the one that seems
garment she loves and has
to best capture the essence of
helped transform into a huge
our times. Sure, the British model
trend. Then there’s Cara making
is known for her striking looks,
funny faces, and in wacky mon-
which include piercing blue eyes,
tages with jellybeans and cans
a body to die for and the stron-
and Santa Claus cartoons. “I feel
by surprise when it was her time
when I’m at home and can beat
gest eyebrows in the business.
like I’ve made it acceptable to be
to be in the spotlight. “It’s very
my drums really loud.”
That said, she is equally famous
weird”, she says.
weird for me, I don’t see myself as anyone famous and never
time has been a source of con-
wackiness of her personality.
considered myself a model. I
stant speculation, with her love
Cara’s career is serious business.
always considered models people
life under especially close scrutiny.
followers on Twitter and almost
Since she started modeling, fol-
like Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Kate
Rumours have linked the model
a million on Instagram. “My fol-
lowing in the footsteps of sister
(Moss) and Naomi (Campbell). I
with two of the world’s most cov-
lowers make me feel less lonely.
Poppy, she’s bagged some of the
don’t see myself as beautiful in
eted bachelors: Prince Harry and
I get messages from a lot of
most coveted jobs in the industry.
the way that they are.”
One Direction star Harry Styles.
young girls especially, who have
She’s the face of brands Burberry
issues and ask for my advice”,
and Chanel and, let’s not forget,
ideas about her future. She
she tells Plastic Dreams.
a member of the exclusive Victo-
wanted to be an astronaut. Or
ria’s Secret Angels club.
maybe a psychologist. Being a
more extreme fans of the
social media presence. Cara has more than 380,000
The 20-year-old has that rare
On this page, Cara shares photos from her Instagram profile, with almost one million followers. On the following page, the model catwalks for Emilio Pucci (Summer 2013), in Milan; on a scene from the movie “Anna Karenina”; at a Black Tie Carnival Party in London; with Karl Lagerfeld at a charity dinner at Cannes Film Festival in 2012; with English actor Harry Treadaway ;-)
What she does in her spare
But don’t be fooled by the
for her powerful and unique
Growing up, Cara had other
Cara has said many times that they are both “good friends”. That hasn’t stopped some
quality of being quite universal
Her long legs have walked
prime minister and winning the
teenager band “1D” sending her
in her appeal. Most boys would
the catwalks for Jason Wu, Oscar
Nobel Peace Prize were also in
a flurry of online abuse, which
probably like to date her. And lots
de la Renta, Dolce & Gabbana,
her plans. Today, she’s narrowed
even included death threats. She
of girls wouldn’t mind being her
Fendi and Stella McCartney. In
down her goals somewhat. The
brushes them off with her good
best friend. Cara’s someone who
one season alone, she starred
model’s dreams of being an
humour. “Some of them can be
looks like she doesn’t take herself
in no fewer than 39 of the
actress, after getting a taste for it
quite funny and creative about it.
too seriously and knows how to
world’s most important shows.
when she starred in the 2012 film
But the ‘die in a hole’ ones? Like,
have fun. The kind of girl that
The model graced the covers of
Anna Karenina, alongside Keira
whose nine-year-old daughter are
wouldn’t turn down a backpack-
magazines such as “Vogue UK”,
Knightley, Jude Law and Aaron
you?”, she said in an interview for
ing adventure or a big burger
“i-D”, “Jalouse” and “LOVE”.
Taylor-Johnson. “Some of the best
British magazine “Grazia”.
with chips. In fact, she revealed
And, in 2012, was named British
days of my life were spent on the
that she scoffed down McDon-
Model of the Year, a coveted title
film set”, she reveals.
ald’s and a pizza on the eve of
that has already belonged to Kate
her debut on the Victoria’s Secret
Moss, Stella Tennant, Lara Stone
catwalk, at a time when most
and Agyness Deyn. Not bad for
other models were trying to eat
a girl who, until recently, had
as little as possible to look good
never thought of being a model.
in those miniscule outfits.
Despite being used to hanging
Not afraid to be silly, she often
out with the cool and famous
posts hilarious pictures of herself
London crowd, she was taken
GETTY images | courtesy universal pictures
ELECTED MODEL OF THE YEAR BY “VOGUE UK”, PLASTIC DREAMS’ COVER GIRL IS NOT ONLY A PRETTY FACE, A great BODY AND FASHION’S MOST COMMENTED PAIR OF EYEBROWS. SHE INSPIRES MANY. AT AGE 20, THE MUSE HAS TAKEN PART IN the movie version of “ANNA KARENINA”, 2013 ACADEMY AWARD WINNER FOR BEST COSTUME. #welovecara
Cara also wants to make
Back to work matters, and Cara has enjoyed being clicked for Plastic Dreams, not least
music. When she’s not working,
because it gave her the chance
sleeping or attending the world’s
to work again with Karl Lagerfeld.
most fabulous parties, she can be
“I will always cherish working
found banging her set of drums.
with Karl”, she says. The shoes
“I’m obsessed with music and
were another big attraction for
can beat rhythms anywhere and
her. “I love them, they are so
with anything. But I really relax
comfortable and smell great.”
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Plastic Dreams
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
06 01
Lights, cameras and lots of action!
05
02 03
T
o begin the development of the theme, the Melissa research team went out
searching for references and inspiration. Always aiming to escape the obvious, we flew to Rome, in this moment where Italian cinema is enjoying a revival. Rome, home to the masters like Fellini, Visconti, De Sica and Pasolini, and their great divas. “Rome is the largest film studio in the world”, said Fellini, at the launch
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By Erika Palomino Photos Vivi Bacco
To research for the collection, the Melissa team visited film studios in Rome and India, including the largest museum in the world dedicated to the genre, in Turin, Italy. Embark on this journey with us and immerse yourself in the magic and glamour of cinema.
07
11
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04
of his feature film with the same name as the Eternal City. “With
and literally scenic metropolis.
tin Scorsese. “Cinema became
who takes a few days off to
Madonna in a recent campaign
producing illusions as you and
this film, I wanted to address
To visit the Fontana di Trevi is
international and our vision of
live like a tourist alongside,
for Dolce & Gabbana revived
I have”, he said.
the idea that under the Rome of
to remember Anita Ekberg in
reality was expanded. Films
heartthrob of the time, Gary
scenes from the 1962 movie
today there is ancient Rome. I al-
the water fountain in “La Dolce
became the richest black and
Cooper. Strolling through some
“Mama Roma” directed by Paso-
another historic address: number
ways have that in mind and that
Vitta” (1960), with her famous
white imagery, of something we
of the city’s famous landmarks
lini, and starring Anna Magnani.
1055 Via Tuscolana, home to the
01 Early photographic lenses. 02 The famous chairs on the film sets. 03 The floor of the Italian studios. 04 Melissa DORIS. 05 Anita Ekberg gets
To check this, we headed to
12
is very exciting. Imagine being
strapless black dress and her
never saw.” In 2011, the Gucci
on a scooter, they immortalized
And even those who do not
so-called “Dream Factory”, as
in a traffic jam at the Coliseum!”
long blonde hair framing her
Foundation digitally restored the
places like staircase to Piazza di
enjoy flying, like director Woody
the legendary studio Cinecittà
explained the filmmaker famous
shoulders. The scene is so
masterpiece and sponsored a
Spagna, the Roman Forum and
Allen, let himself be taken in by
has become known. It was a spe-
for his eccentric types and movies
famous that every day and night
screening of the film for VIPs of
the Mouth of Truth (La Bocca
the charms of Rome with his “To
cial event, because we had the
Italian studios are in full swing.
with surreal tones.
there are policemen stationed
the movie and fashion industry,
della Verità). Some people go to
Rome With Love” (2012).
opportunity to visit the exhibition
Crossing the mythical façade, that
there to prevent excited tourists
proving its importance.
Rome exclusively to retrace the
“Rome is a city of illusions,”
“Cinecittà Shows Off”, celebrating
features a reproduction of the
said the American writer Gore
the 150th anniversary of the Ital-
head of Fellini’s “Casanova”, it is
Vidal. “Not by chance there is
ian Unification and also the 75th
easy to imagine the real charac-
In fact, the corners, city squares and fountains create a curious mix of the legacy of the
from repeating the iconic scene. Everything changed after
It was also in Rome the eternal “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”
film’s tour. The strength of Italian women
Roman Empire with the daily life
“La Dolce Vita”, according to
Audrey Hepburn filmed “Roman
portrayed in that golden period
the church, the politics and the
anniversary of the studio. Unlike
ters tracing the same path, in sets
of an urban, romantic, unique
another important director, Mar-
Holiday”, a noble young princess
continues to inspire fashion today.
cinema. Each of these worlds
the Brazilian studio Vera Cruz, the
like Theatre 5 (the largest studio
in the water in “La Dolce Vita” at the “Fontana di Trevi”, in Rome. 06 Plaque of Fellini’s Largo, in Rome. 07 Entrance of legendary “Teatro 5” in Cinecittà. 08 Façade of Cinecittà, at Via Tuscolana. 09 The Coliseum at sunset. 10 Piazza di Spagna, at the heart of Rome. 11 Dolce & Gabbana’s campaign based on the movie “Mamma Roma”, by Pier Paolo Pasolini. 12 Melissa MARILYN.
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Plastic Dreams
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
22
24
13 23
15
in Europe, 2.873.04 square me-
16
ters and 15 meters high, it was a
19
favorite of Fellini and where his body was veiled, in 1993). And not only movies of the past were
22 Hong Kong’s iconic skyline view, at Victoria Bay. 23 Nocturnal scenes of Hong Kong. 24 Scene from the film “2046”, by Wong Kar Wai. 25 MElissa Billy Creepers.
14
filmed there, current productions like “Gangs of New York” (2000;
memorabilia, costumes, masks,
the sets remains intact), the HBO
scripts, photographs, sketches,
TV series “Rome” (2004) and Wes
models and everything else you
Anderson’s “The Life Acquatic
can imagine, including the first
with Steve Zissou” (2003) were
cape of Superman, the original
all filmed there. In the 1950’s
mask of Darth Vader, a bra from
and 1960’s, everybody filmed
Marilyn Monroe and, our favorite:
in Cinecittà and launched their
the cast of the head of the idol
films in Rome. The glamorous
of Casanova, created by designer
premieres at the Grand Hotel
Giantito Burchiellaro. A true
were a must. And did you know
immersion, very inspiring, that
the term “paparazzi” came from
covers from the earliest shadow
that time?
theaters and the first magic
To search the genealogy of
lanterns to the special effects of
cinema, the second stop of the
today (that’s where we found the
Melissa staff was the National
quote from Trotsky).
Museum of Cinema in Turin,
The space is also one of the ar-
still in Italy, one of the most
chitectural landmarks of Turin and
important in the world dedicated
its panoramic lift leads to a terrace
to the Seventh Art. It is located
of 85 meters, where you can see
inside the Mole Antonelliana,
the whole city up to the Alps.
a temple created in 1863 by
13 Film poster of the Lumière Brothers. 14 The head of Fellini’s idol, “Casanova”. 15 Film posters at the thematic Bar at the Museo Nazionale Del Cinema, in Turin. 16 Scene from “The Shining” by Stanley Kubrick, whose retrospective exhibition will open in October at the Museu da Imagem e do Som, in São Paulo. 17 Extract from the screenplay “Psycho” by Alfred Hitchcock. 18 Object from the original Frankenstein. 19 Original cape from the first Superman movie. 20 Indian Film Poster at Film City, in Mumbai. 21 Backstage of one of the 300 studios in Bollywood, India.
25
17
20
300 studios located in an area
Whisky”, the promo song for the
outside of the city center.
film “Vicky Honor”, starring John
The local production began
Abrahim, the upcoming actor Ay-
there in 1915, as a response to
ushmann Khurrana and the very
the British cultural domain in
energetic director Shoojit Sircar.
the country. The first film in color
sophisticated aesthetic. Pure modernism.
dates from 1950 and in 1970s
more surreal than the scene,
the term “Bollywood” was in-
complete with pyrotechnics and
mentioned yet Lou Ye or Zhang
vented, to define the Hollywood
even extras dressed as fetishistic
Yimou. And what about 2013
of Bombay (or Mumbai). And
nurses (the romantic comedy
Academy Award Winning Direc-
if there is a world where colors
revolves around the issue of
tor Ang Lee, who was born in
make all the difference, that
sperm donation!). The dances,
Taiwan, and enchanted the world
place is Bollywood. To mention
created by award-winning cho-
with his film “Crouching Tiger,
that its aesthetic flirts with kitsch
reographer Bosco, needless to
Hidden Dragon”, making martial
would be almost superfluous.
say, make Psy’s choreographies
arts films cool again?
As with everything in India, the
look very simple!
shades are intense, with lot’s
Cut. We took a plane to Mum-
The heat was perhaps even
Cut. We leave for Hong Kong,
And we haven’t even
And if the movies serve as a reflection of the times around
architect Alessandro Antonelli
bai, India. Besides us, millions
of gold, and the discrepancies
because some of today’s most
us, portraying different periods,
to be a synagogue. In 2000 it
of Indians go there every day,
between the rich and the poor
relevant cinematography comes
these same time periods are
was transformed in the world’s
searching not only for fame, but
are huge. We went from the high
from the Orient, mainly from
expressed in the different moods
tallest museum, with its famous
also for money in an attempt to
to the low, visiting a rickety and
China and Hong Kong.
and styles of the CineMelissa
25 meter high dome.
enter the “gates of hope” of the
dusty studio, and then the very
so-called “Film City” in Bollywood,
structured SJ Studio, and another
of director Wong Kar-wai, from
the magic and embark with us to
of sensory and even acoustic
if only to make a small cameo in
set where we witnessed with
“2046” and “In The Mood For
this world that, just like Melissa,
experiences, displaying posters,
one of the productions of the over
exclusivity the shoot of “Rum &
Love”, with it’s dark colors and
is always evolving.
The building houses six floors
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21
We were inspired by the work
collection. Immerse yourself in
Plastic Dreams
36
CineMelissa Winter 2013
Holly, Nolly, Bolly Hollywood is the mecca of cinema, we already know. However, the biggest movie producer of the global market is not the United States, but India. In turn, Nigeria, in the african continent, is the fastest growing film industry in the world. Find out the differences between the three. By André Barcinski Illustration Heir
Q
uick question: which film industry with a
Hollywood, Bollywood and Nollywood. The names
name ending in “wood” produces most
sound very much alike, but the movies, the industry and
movies per year? Hollywood, right? Wrong!
the way of making them couldn’t be more different.
The biggest producer of movies in the world is
Bollywood, in India. Around 1,100 movies are produced there every year. So, that means the second biggest producer is Hollywood, right? Wrong again! The second biggest film producer in
Hollywood is a district in Los Angeles, California, USA. The place started attracting film producers at the beginning of the 20th century, due to its perfect weather. This was very different from the freezing winters of New York, where the early studios were located. There was another advantage: the land in California
the world is Nollywood. That’s how the Nigeria film
was huge, cheap and unexplored. From 1910, many
industry became known. They produce around 1,000
producers moved there.
movies per year. Hollywood comes in the third place, producing an
The first studio built in the Los Angeles area was the Selig Polyscope, in 1909-1910. And the first film shot
average of 650 movies per year. On the other hand, it is
in Hollywood was a short film of 17 minutes called
the most lucrative movie industry in the world, with rev-
“Old California”, directed in 1910 by renowned D.W.
enue of around US$11 billion per year, while Bollywood’s
Griffith, one of the biggest names from the early days
revenue is US$3 billion and Nollywood’s US$250 million.
of cinema.
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Plastic Dreams
Another genius of the early years of cinema, Cecil
many people think it means the total Indian film
B. De Mille, shot in 1914, along with Oscar Apfel, the
industry, when in fact it only refers to films produced
first feature film in Hollywood, “The Squaw Man”.
in the Bombay region.
The exodus of producers and studios to California
Bollywood movies are mostly musical-melodramas,
was so intense that in 1915 the Los Angeles region
romantic stories of impossible love and happy
had already surpassed New York as the largest
endings, made for audiences to cry and laugh.
center of film production in the United States.
No Bollywood film is complete without several
The word “Hollywood” became virtually syn-
Broadway-style musical numbers, filled with festive
onymous with American cinema. And its greatest
music and complex choreographies. The films are
symbol is the huge Hollywood sign, located in the
often very colorful, mostly in flashy tones.
Santa Monica Mountains. The sign measures 110
Until the 1970’s, Bollywood movies were produced
meters long by 11 meters high and was built origi-
for the domestic market and showed only in Indian
nally to advertise a real estate project, but ended
cinemas. They soon began to be exported all over the
up staying and became an icon of the power of the
world and shown in countries with Indian communities.
film industry. Bollywood is not a place but the name given to
That helped making the films known around the planet and eventually influenced even Hollywood
the film industry based in Bombay (or Mumbai),
movies, especially musical films recently released by
India. Curiously, the name was adapted from “Tolly-
American studios. These would include “Chicago,”
wood”, the name of a movie production center rival
“Rent,” “Phantom of the Opera”, “Mamma Mia” and
to Bombay, Tollygunge, based in Calcutta, which
“Moulin Rouge”, whose director, Baz Luhrman, gave
dominated Indian cinema in the 1930’s and 1940’s.
interviews saying he had been directly influenced by
The term Bollywood emerged in the 1970s, when India overtook the United States in number of films produced annually. The name stuck so much that
“Bollywoodian” musicals. Finally, we arrive in Nollywood, one of the most amazing stories of cinema. It is also not a place, but
39
CineMelissa Winter 2013
Nollywood, one of the most amazing stories of cinema. It is also not a place, but the nickname given to the fastest growing film industry in the world: Nigeria.
the nickname given to the fastest growing film industry in the world: Nigeria. Without movie theaters to show their films, Nigerian directors and producers work really fast and cheap, and target only the DVD market. A Nollywood film costs, on average, a mere U$15,000 and sells 50 thousand DVDs, ensuring gigantic profit margins. To cheapen the production, movies are shot on the street or in locations such as hotels and restaurants, and sometimes even in the producer’s homes. The stories range from romance to thrillers. Religious stories are also very popular. The Nigerian population is so fond of the local films that the number of DVD sales of local production exceeds that of Hollywood “blockbusters”. The next step, according to the producers, is bringing the films to other countries in Africa. Hollywood, Bollywood, Nollywood: three countries, three continents, three different ways of producing movies.
André Barcinski is a movie critic from “Folha de S. Paulo”
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Plastic Dreams
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
time machine
Embark on an amazing journey through cinema’s fascinating history, conducted by a team of lovers of this unique form of telling stories, inventing dreams and turning them into reality!
1895
1914
1935
1948
Charles Chaplin appears for
With the release of “Becky
MGM revitalizes the musical genre
In Paris, the Lumière Brothers,
the first time as The Tramp in
Sharp”, by Rouben Mamoulian,
with a series of movies that would
organize a presentation using the
the comedy “Kid Auto Races at
American audiences discover
soon become classics. In “Easter
cinématographe. The image of a
Venice”.
the vivid colors of Technicolor.
Parade”, Judy Garland stars with
in his 2011 movie “Hugo” – causes a commotion among the 30 people that were present.
1898 From a ship, Afonso Segreto films the arrival at Guanabara Bay. It’s the first footage produced in Brazil.
1902
1915
“The Birth of a Nation”. It’s the
Alô, Carnaval”, one of the first
first time a director uses close
“chanchadas” (a Brazilian genre
ups, flashbacks and other nar-
that mixes comedy and musical)
rative devices in order to tell a story. These devices are still used in narrative movies today.
1925
In the USSR, Sergei Eisenstein directs “Battleship Potemkin”,
special effects”, French illusionist
and is considered the “father of
George Méliès takes the
movie montage”.
audience to space for the first time, in the first science fiction
1927
film ever produced, “A Trip to
Al Jolson, a Vaudeville icon,
the Moon”.
surprises the audiences in
The success of “The Great Train Robbery” by Edwin S. Porter, established the motion pictures industry in the USA and confirmed Westerns as the quintessential American cinematographic genre.
1906 Ole Olsen founds Nordisk Film, in Denmark, transforming it into the most important film-producing country in Northern Europe.
Carmen Miranda stars in “Alô,
D.W. Griffith presents his epic
Considered “the father of
1903
1936
“The Jazz Singer”, the first full-length talking movie.
1928
Written by Salvador Dali and directed by Luis Buñuel, “Un Chien Andalou / An Andalusian Dog”, shocks audiences during the European premieres. This film is considered an icon of Surrealist Cinema.
1931
In “Dracula”, Hungarian actor
1911
Béla Lugosi portrays for the first
Photoplay, the first American
is associated with Bram Stoker’s
film fan magazine, is founded.
character until today.
time Count Dracula, creating gestures and a way of speaking that
produced by Cinédia, the first Brazilian film studio.
1937
“Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs”, the first full-feature
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Martin Scorsese would re-create
shutterstock.com | DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy fox home entertainment, universal home video, warner home video, continental, versátil home video, magnus opus, fox filmes, globo vídeo, paramount home, vintage films, videofilmes, imagem filmes
train reaching the station – that
one of the greatest dancers of all time, Fred Astaire.
1953
Fox presents “The Robe”, the first movie shot on Cinemascope. The new format produces an image almost twice as big as the format used until then.
1954
Japanese director Akira Kuro-
animation by Walt Disney,
sawa, one of the main figures of
is released in theaters and
the golden age of Asian cinema,
becomes an instant classic.
presents “Seven Samurai”. The
1939
movie influenced many genera-
“Gone With The Wind”, based on the novel by Margaret Mitch-
1955
ell, is adapted for the big screen.
“Pather Panchali”, the first film of
The movie becomes one of the
the “Apu Trilogy” by Indian director
most lucrative films in history.
Satyajit Ray, is released. India’s
1941
Orson Welles makes a revolution in Hollywood with “Citizen Kane”. Critics consider the film as one of the best movies of all time.
tions of moviemakers.
movie industry would grow to become bigger than Hollywood by the 1970’s.
1959 Shot in four weeks with a very low
1946
budget, “Breathless”, by Jean-
With “Roma, Open City”, a
1960
landmark of the Italian “Neo Realism”, Roberto Rossellini portrays the confusion of the
Luc Godard, becomes the symbol of the French movement known as “Nouvelle Vague”.
Alfred Hitchcock terrorizes his
post-war period in Europe and
audience with “Psycho”, one of
creates an alternative for the
the most memorable suspense
Hollywood way of making films.
thrillers from all time.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Plastic Dreams
1973
1986
2000
Henry Mancini wins two Oscars
“Enter the Dragon” is released
The Argentinian political drama
Warner Bros announces Daniel
and four Grammy’s for the
in the West right after the prema-
“The Official Story” by Luis
Radcliffe as the main character of
soundtrack of “Breakfast at
ture death of its main actor Bruce
Puenzo becomes the first Latin
“Harry Potter and The Sorcerer’s
Tiffany’s”, which includes the
Lee. Martial Arts movies become
American movie to win an Oscar
Stone”, the first film of the series
hit “Moon River”.
a sensation worldwide and Lee
for Best Foreign Movie.
based on J. K. Rowling’s books.
1962
becomes a pop culture icon.
1990
Young, Sean Connery perso-
1976
“Dona Flor and her Two Hus-
nifies secret agent 007, James
bands”, based on Jorge Amado’s
Bond, in the first film of this
romance and directed by Bruno
successful British franchise.
Barreto is released in Brazil and
1964
becomes one of the biggest box office hits of Brazilian cinema.
Sergio Leone’s “A Fistful of Dol-
1977
lars”, starring Clint Eastwood,
“Star Wars” hits theaters for the
is a hit. The genre known as
first time and becomes a pop
“Spaghetti Western”, would be-
culture mania. The film is the first
come very popular in the 1960’s.
of the “Blockbuster Era”.
1965 “The Sound of Music” is one
1980
of the most successful movies
Pedro Almodóvar directs his
of the year. The true story of
first movie “Pepi, Luci, Bom
the Von Trapp family would
and Other Girls Like Mom” and
become one of the most
becomes a symbol of the Cultural
popular musicals of all time.
Revolution of Spanish Democracy.
1969 Influential Brazilian filmmaker
1982
With “ET – the Extra-Terrestrial”,
Glauber Rocha, leader of the
Steven Spielberg becomes one
Cinema Novo movement, wins
of the most popular and influen-
the Best Director award at the
tial directors of movie history.
Cannes Film Festival for “Anto-
1983
nio das Mortes”.
1970
In Hong Kong, Jackie Chan reinvents the action movie genre with “Project A”, performing
“Midnight Cowboy” by John
elaborate action scenes without
Schlesinger becomes the first
stunts or special effects.
X-rated movie to win the Best
1985
Film award at the Oscars.
1972
Studio Ghibli opens in Japan. Its
The first of a series of disaster
acclaimed animes, a Japanese
movies, “The Poseidon
style of animation, were greatly
Adventure” brings millions of
responsible for the revitalization of
people to the theaters.
the country’s cinema in the 1980’s.
The romantic comedy makes a sexy comeback in Hollywood. Due to the huge success of “Pretty Woman”, Julia Roberts becomes a star and the highest paid actress in the business.
1992
The commercial success of movies like “Reservoir Dogs” by Quentin Tarantino gets the attention of the big studios. They decide to create their own “Independent” production companies to finance more auteurist projects.
1995 Danish filmmakers Lars Von shutterstock.com | DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy fox home entertainment, universal home video, warner home video, continental, versátil home video, magnus opus, fox filmes, globo vídeo, paramount home, vintage films, videofilmes, imagem filmes
In “Dr. No”, directed by Terence
shutterstock.com | DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy fox home entertainment, universal home video, warner home video, continental, versátil home video, magnus opus, fox filmes, globo vídeo, paramount home, vintage films, videofilmes, imagem filmes
1961
Trier and Thomas Vinterberg publish the Dogma 95 manifesto, which rejects the cin-
2004
“City of God” by Brazilian director Fernando Meirelles is nominated for Academy Awards in four categories: Director, Adapted Screenplay, Editing, and Cinematography.
2005
Documentaries become a commercial genre with “March of the Penguins” by French director Luc Jacquet.
2006 Disney buys Pixar Animation Studios, creator of box office hits such as “Toy Story”, “Monsters Inc.” and “Finding Nemo”.
2009
Released in December, “Avatar”
ematographic conventions of its
by James Cameron breaks all
time, according to them “based
box offices records and becomes
on special effects and the latest
responsible for the resurgence
technological inventions”.
of 3D movies.
1997 “Titanic” arrives on the big
2011
“Tango with Me” by Mahmood
screens all over the world. With
Ali-Balogun is Nigeria’s most
a budget of 250 million dol-
lucrative movie of the year. With
lars, including production and
1,000 titles per year, the African
marketing costs, is the most
country is the second biggest
expensive film of all time.
producer of films in the world.
1999
2013 Among sequels, remakes, and
Made with a budget of only 30
franchises that will hit the theat-
thousand dollars, “The Blair
ers, the most awaited film is
Witch Project” makes more
“Man of Steel”. The movie brings
then 125 million at the box of-
back to the big screen DC Comics
fices, and becomes a cult classic.
greatest super hero, Superman.
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Plastic Dreams
magic carpet
Right, Tilda Swinton wears Haider Ackermann at the 2012 Golden Globe Awards; following, Anna Hathaway wears Prada on the night she won the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress for her role in “Les Misérables” (2013); Cate Blanchett, another muse of the red carpet, shows the back of her Givenchy couture dress (2011); Imogen Heap wears Melissa Ultragirl + J.Maskrey and Hayley Williams wears Melissa Vivienne Westwood Three Straps Elevated, both at the 2010 Grammy Awards.
A catwalk for celebrities, luxurious clothes and jewelry, the “Red Carpets” produce moments that are even more fun than the movies and the award shows themselves. who are you wearing today? By Sergio Amaral
Y
ear after year, the scene is
Before them, Björk, at the 2001 Oscars, caused
Take the Oscars, for example, whose TV
repeated in a continual loop,
audience surpasses 39 million viewers in the
a commotion with a fancy white swan dress by
with celebrities landing on the
U.S. alone. There is no right recipe for success,
Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski; J.Lo also shone
red carpet, smiling for zillions
because it also depends on the competition.
at the 2000 Grammys Awards looking like a high-
of flashbulbs and photos that
But the resources at your disposal, considering
class “periguete”*, wearing an extremely sexy …and
will find their way to millions of blogs,
how much of an A-lister you are at the moment,
revealing tropical print Versace dress.
social networks, newspaper and magazine
are limitless. Stunningly expensive clothes?
Some other great moments from the red carpet include
pages, informing us what is chic and
Check. Ultra impressive jewelry? Check. Special
Sarah Jessica Parker in McQueen at the 2006 Costume
elegant, who did it right and shone and
treatments, products and beauty professionals at
Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum in New York,
your disposal? Check. Whatever you’d like, the sky
as well as Nicole Kidman – the always-gorgeous diva of
is the limit! It sounds like a dream, but that really
the red carpet – at the 2007 Oscars, in a red Balenciaga.
happens in Hollywood.
And what about Tilda Swinton? What a vision! Super
who was a total disaster. It could even be considered futile. But it’s not. Think of a special evening in your life, your graduation party for example. Besides having fun it’s also important to shine and be the star. This can mean different things
modern and always very elegant, wearing Lanvin at
Much better than the predictable bad jokes of the ceremonies, the red carpets have generated
the 2009 Oscars, and more recently wearing Haider
memorable and historic moments since the
Ackermann at this year’s Golden Globes in January. Other hits: Cate Blanchet, dressed in an architectural
beginning. A curiosity: the earliest record of a red carpet in history was at the Greek tragedy
and Oriental inspired Givenchy Couture, at the 2011
the most beautiful, the sexiest
“Agamemnon”, a play from Aeschylus, written
Oscars; Charlize Theron in a light blue Dior in 2005;
and the most fun, or perhaps
sometime in antiquity, about 500 years before
and Gisele, at the same ceremony, in white Dior
Christ. In the story, Agamemnon returns victorious
(attention to the bonus!) with Leonardo DiCaprio at
from the Trojan War, and in recognition of his
her side; not to mention Julia Roberts, stunning in
heroism and his success is greeted with a purple
Valentino, at the 2001 Oscars.
At the Oscars, or the Grammys, or the Golden Globes, or any red carpet in the world, it is very similar to that. Only 1 billion times bigger!
Angelina Jolie wears Versace couture at the 2012 Academy Awards; the dress revealed her form and inspired the world.
Going back in time, it’s still worth mentioning a
carpet extended at his feet, something that at that
fashion moment from decades ago, at the 1954 Oscars,
time was solely dedicated to the deities.
with “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” Audrey Hepburn in a simple
Returning to the red carpets, as we know today, but still talking about mythological beings, there
white floral pattern dress by Givenchy. Audrey took
are several moments that mark recent memory,
home the Oscar for Best Actress for her performance in
starting with last year’s Oscar ceremony, when
“Roman Holiday” and also went down in history as one
Angelina Jolie, wearing a black dress by Atelier
of the strongest looks ever on the red carpet! Valentino, Versace, Givenchy, Chanel, Dior, Lanvin,
Versace, posed for pictures with her leg exposed, in a daring pose (somewhat strange, it’s true),
Balenciaga… The most desirable brands in the world
causing a rebound in the entire cosmos.
have already walked by the red carpets. And Melissa too! At the Grammys, didn’t you know?
So who are the biggest shakers? Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj always cause a commotion when they hit the red carpets. Two very dramatic queens, inside a cocoon or wearing a dress made of stuffed animals, they never go unnoticed.
gettyimages.com
to be with the cutest boy.
gettyimages.com
to different girls: maybe to be
45
CineMelissa Winter 2013
* “periguete” is a typical look from of a Brazilian girl who mixes a lot of different fashion styles, always looking super sexy.
05
46
Movies & fashion: a perfect marriage From the movie screens to the streets or from the streets to the movie screens, Join us as we review the history of cinema and fashion, two industries united in creating dreams with reality.
47
CineMelissa Winter 2013
DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy universal pictures, paramount pictures and warner bros.
Plastic Dreams
before the movie, guys used to follow the Mod aesthetic,
By Alexandra Farah
with extremely thin ties from the 1960s.
I
Lauren was so successful that, n the last two decades the
dance”, became an obsession,
wood’s greatest designers of all
“Anna Karenina”, which won the
from that moment on, he built
relationship between fashion
as well as her “poodle-like”
time, Adrian, for Joan Crawford’s
Oscar in the same year for Best
his fame and created a fashion
and film has become very
hairstyle. Alex, her character’s
character in the movie “Letty
Costume Design.
empire. The most awaited fashion
trendy. But this relationship
name, worked in a steel mill
Lynton”. This dress sold 50 thou-
started long ago. Since the
and spent her lunchtime reading
sand copies at Macy’s in 1932,
numerous fashion hits. The
Great Gatsby”, this time with
beginning of the last century,
French “Vogue”! She was such a
the year of the movie’s release.
exhibition “Hollywood Costume”
Leonardo DiCaprio in the starring
movies have used fashion to
“hottie” that she ended up win-
add glamour and update their
ning her handsome bosses heart
dresses that appear on the big
Victoria and Albert Museum in
look. Fashion, on the other
and became a true ballerina.
screen became an absolute suc-
London, brought together the
cess and remains popular until
100 best costumes of all time.
hand, uses movies to showcase
Besides telling a good story,
This formula of copying
movies have always had the
today. Especially with the strong
The exhibit was curated by three
worldwide attention.
function of expressing style and
influence of the red carpet
specialists in costume design,
creating dreams for their fans.
phenomena, which generates
and included Dorothy’s look
TV, movie magazines were filled
Since the 1920s film studios
lots of media attention. These
from “The Wizard of Oz” and
with the latest creations from
have used the looks of their
days, for instance, the Oscar
Jack Sparrow’s look for “Pirates
Parisian designers. Pictures of
stars as part of their marketing
ceremony can be considered
of the Caribbean”.
Hollywood divas walking the red
campaigns. And they were very
“the biggest fashion show of the
As far as classic costumes
carpets at the award ceremonies
clever at making profits. In the
year”. Ten years ago, the yellow
goes, it is impossible to forget
were a great way to showcase
first decades of the last century,
dress used by Kate Hudson in
the white pleated dress that
fashion everywhere on the plan-
each movie theatre had its own
the movie “How to Loose a Guy
Marilyn Monroe used in “The
et. Each diva represented their
shop. They were called “cine-
in 10 Days” was the most copied
Seven Year Itch”, or the strapless
own film and their own style.
shops”, with all different kinds of
gown by specialized “party
pink silk dress from “Gentleman
merchandise for sale; basically
dress” stores in New York City.
Prefer Blondes”, both movies
Just think, for example, about the revolution caused by the
everything that was featured in
very short haircut with bangs
the movies they were showing.
of one of the first “it girls” of
Gradually this concept
In 2012, boys were obsessed with a jacket stamped with a
role and Carey Mulligan as his
which closed recently at the
their latest creations and get Long before the invention of
film of 2013 is once again “The
The movies have produced
from the 1950s. Still in the realm of classics,
scorpion on the back, ex-
in 1974 designer Ralph Lauren
Above, clockwise: Joan Crawford in “Letty Lynton”; scene from the remake of “The Great Gatsby”; Keira Knightley looks smashing in burgundy in a scene from “Anna Karenina”; Jennifer Beals and her iconic sweatshirt top in “Flashdance”; Kate Hudson’s yellow dress, one of the most copied in the history of fashion; Marilyn Monroe’s unforgettable pink gown; Audrey and her timeless dress from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, by Givenchy, and Ryan Gosling in “Drive”. Center, starlet Clara Bow, the first it-girl!
love interest, with costumes designed by Miuccia Prada. But when you talk about iconic costumes, nothing beats the little black dresses that Audrey Hepburn, the muse of “fashion-films”, used in the classic “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” by Blake Edwards in 1961. It was her fourth collaboration with fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy. Prior to this film, only widows and prostitutes wore black dresses. After “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and the iconic scene of Audrey eating a croissant with her pearl necklace in front of Tiffany’s, the little black dress immediately became a fashion icon, being adopted
all time, silent screen star Clara
became more professional and
actly like the one used by Ryan
was invited to create Robert
Bow. More recently, in the
eventually it turned into a hit.
Gosling in “Drive”. In 2013, a
Redford’s look for his title role
1980’s, the torn grey sweatshirt
For example take the romantic
strong candidate for the most
in “The Great Gatsby”. Lauren
used by Jennifer Beals in the
white dress, with broad shoul-
copied fashion item is the ruby
used a wide tie and changed
combination of fashion and
sexy disco romance “Flash-
ders, created by one of Holly-
dress used by Keira Knightley in
completely men’s fashion –
films can produce.
even at debutant’s balls. A magic that only the perfect
Plastic Dreams
The aesthetics of Brazilian cinema
48
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
twenty years after resuming film production, filmmakers redefine the aesthetics of brazilian cinema in movies that range from popular TV-like comedies to dense and visually sophisticated narratives dealing with painful social issues. By Suzy Capó Photos Courtesy of the distributors
O
ver the past 20 years, Brazilian
Different from other historical moments,
cinema has been undergoing
the contemporary Brazilian cinema is marked
a process of reinvention. After
by heterogeneity and diversity”, says
a brief period of total stagna-
Academy Awards nominee Cesar Charlone,
tion, due to the extinction of
the cinematographer of Fernando Meirelles’
Embrafilme, the State agency in charge of
“City of God”. “Each film proposes different
promoting, producing and distributing Brazilian
aesthetics,” he says.
films, production was resumed with innovative ways of representing the country’s reality. New public policies and laws designed to
images varies from film to film. “The final
encourage film production in the mid-1990s
word is always the director’s, but while some
were the main stimulus for the resumption
of them go as far as telling you which lenses
of Brazilian cinema. Since the release of Carla
they want you to use, others give total
Camurati’s “Carlota Joaquina, Princess of Bra-
freedom to the Director of Photography”,
zil”, the film that marked the beginning of this
explains Charlone.
new period, there has been a new portrayal
Production designer Marcos Pedroso,
of aesthetics on screen. This was not only a
credited for arthouse films such as “Lower
consequence of greater financial investment in
City” by Sérgio Machado, “Cinema, Aspirins
film but also a need to take a new ideological
and Vultures” by Marcelo Gomes, and
stand in front of the great political, economic,
Karim Aïnouz’s upcoming film “Praia do
and social changes of the past 20 years.
Futuro”, identifies more than one direction
PhD candidate Daniela Gillone notes in
in Brazilian filmmaking. They range from
her research project “Identity and Politics in
market-oriented comedies, with a standard
Contemporary Brazilian Cinema”, that the
aesthetics drawn from broadcast television,
representation of the working classes some-
to socially committed films about violence
how repositions some aspects previously
and crime on the outskirts of large urban
exploited by the Cinema Novo movement.
centers or the inequality and lack of
In a different context and with “a new ideo-
prospects in the northeastern backlands.
logical stance of production, the hinterlands
According to Pedroso, the latter “use a
of the northeastern region, migration, and
documentary style, a true-to-life approach
especially the slums of large cities reappear
in the way those realities are depicted”.
in different perspectives from those experienced in the 1960s,” she says.
On this page, still from “Love for Sale”, a film by Karim Ainouz shot in the hinterland of Northeastern Brazil, a region frequently portrayed in Brazilian cinema.
According to Charlone, even the role of the cinematographer in the construction of
Aesthetically, comedies like “Until Luck Tears Us Apart”, by Roberto Santucci, and
Another feature observed by Gillone is
“If I Were You” 1 and 2, by Daniel Filho, are
the predominance of realism in much of the
more homogeneous as they portray realities
recent filmography. But the way this image
seen in the Brazilian soap operas, produced
of realism is portrayed in Brazilian cinema is
by Rede Globo. Their cinema branch, Globo
very diverse. For this reason it is difficult to
Filmes, has participated in the production of
group the filmmakers who have emerged in
more than one hundred Brazilian films. That
the last 20 years within a single thematic or
“aspirational aesthetic” involving lighting,
aesthetic movement.
production, costume design and casting,
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Plastic Dreams
51
CineMelissa Winter 2013
Clockwise, stills from: “Rat Fever”, an auteur film by Claudio Assis; the aesthetically brutal “Neighbouring Sounds”, an unexpected box office hit directed by Kleber Mendonça; “Until Luck Tears Us Apart”, Roberto Santucci’s 2012 blockbuster that recreates soap opera aesthetics; “Linha de Passe”, Walter Salles’ portrayal of a lower middle class family; and action-packed “Elite Squad”, by José Padilha, set in Rio de Janeiro’s violent slums.
has great appeal to the audiences: the films co-produced by Globo Filmes led 120 million viewers to movie theaters since the branch of the company was founded in 1998 - a significant number for the Brazilian market. But not only standard comedies have had success with larger audiences. “Elite Squad: The Enemy Within”, by José Padilha, “Carandiru”, by Hector Babenco, and “City of God”, by Fernando Meirelles, scored high at the box office without giving up more sophisticated image compositions and less palatable themes. All those films were co-produced by Globo Filmes and influenced Brazilian television, inspiring TV series such as “City of Men”.
The understanding of what is Brazil is frequently filtered, in the country’s contemporary cinema, by a foreign, outsider look. Another strong strand in the national film industry is the authorial cinema, as represented by filmmakers Karim Aïnouz (“Madame Satã”, “Love For Sale”), Claudio Assis (“Bog of Beasts”, “Rat Fever”) and Marcelo Gomes (“Cinema, Aspirins and Vultures”, “Once Upon a Time Veronica”),
Imbued with a certain “Brazilianness”, both
presence in contemporary Brazilian cinema],
The impressions of the protagonist, at first
‘The Pope’s Toilet’ (a Brazil/France/Uruguay
musicians have become a local phenomena,
among others. Directors like Walter Salles
in the choice of topics and the construction of
the film could pass anywhere else with the
distant and introspective, are transformed as
co-production), the fact that I’ve been living
much more appreciated than Hollywood (or
(“Central Station”, “Linha de Passe” - English
images, the Brazilian auteurs start from more
same status quo that we have in the world”,
he travels across the contemporary inland. He
in Brazil for so many years and that I had
Bollywood) musicals, for instance.
title not available) and Fernando Meirelles,
personal issues and break away from visual
says Marcos Pedroso. “Its ‘Brazilian identity’ is
gets closer to the arid landscape of the north-
a Brazilian editor was very important in
have become big names in the international
clichés in their representations of Brazilian
evidenced in its ugliness, in a certain aesthetic
eastern backlands, audio-visual pollution in
conveying the Uruguayan spirit”, he reveals.
cinema scene because of films that play out
realities. “The effort [made by these directors]
brutality constructed by the director”, he adds.
small towns and the various people he meets
in impressive ways. They show the power
is not to discover a profound Brazil, but a
struggles between different segments of ur-
universal one” says Pedroso.
ban society or narratives closer to the small
The most successful film d’auteur in recent
Curiosly, the understanding of what is Brazil
If there’s not a Brazilian way of filmmak-
Whether blockbusters, low-budget productions, genre or auteur films, the Brazilian cinema is in fact redefining itself,
as they refer, in small frames and details, to
ing there’s certainly a Brazilian taste. In addi-
reflecting the current situation of the
is often filtered in our cinema by a foreign
very personal, and at the same time univer-
tion to the forementioned TV-like comedies,
country. By means of professionals working
look, an outsider look. In “I Travel Because
sal, feelings, such as love and loneliness.
very particular film genres have emerged
in film, TV and advertising, new aesthetics,
in recent years. “Our Home: The Astral
perspectives, and modes of production
details of daily life, and focus on characters
months, “Neighboring Sounds”, by Kleber
I Have To, I Come Back Because I Love You”,
“There’s no such thing as a Brazilian way of
who fight to survive or who are looking for
Mendonça Filho, follows this trend. “Despite
a road movie co-directed by Marcelo Gomes
making films”, says Charlone. In fact, a foreign
City”, by Wagner de Assis, has consolidated
have emerged in attempting to describe
more subjective conditions such as rescuing
being located in Recife [a city in the northeast
and Karim Aïnouz, a geologist is sent to the
perspective could be very welcome when
the “spiritist film” genre in Brasil, while
the diversity and great cultural, social and
moral or ethical values.
of the country with a particularly strong
northeast to work, after a painful breakup.
approaching very regional issues. “In my film
documentaries and biopics about Brazilian
geographical dimension of Brazil.
Plastic Dreams
52
53
Akosua Adoma Owusu, 29, Director Akosua Adoma Owusu is an Afro-American film director who’s like an ambassador for new African storytelling. “The continent of Africa has a history that is rich with fascinating stories, and cinema can be used like a window into that world. As an African filmmaker, I feel that it is my duty to seize that opportunity and offer something incredibly real from Africa to the world of cinema; something that goes beyond stereotypical depictions and the usual traditions of film”, says Adoma. She was born in the US, but her parents are from Ghana. She became interested in working in film when she met Kevin Jerome Everson, an experimental black filmmaker, with whom she took courses during college. After graduating in Media Studies & Studio Art from the University of Virginia, she went Still from “Kwaku Ananse”, a film by Ghana-based film director Okosua Adoma (opposite page, bottom left), which premiered at the 63rd Berlin International Film Festival.
on to receive her Master’s degree in Film & Fine Arts from the California Institute of the Arts. For Adoma, being a film director is “a platform to express a voice eloquently and create poetry in moving pictures”. Since she’s become a film director she has made eight short films and installations. 2013 has been a very special year to Adoma, because “Kwaku
From top to bottom, stills from the movie ‘“Feriado” (“Holiday”), an Ecuador/Argentina production directed by Diego Araujo with cinematography by Magela Crosignani (bottom, right).
Ananse”, her first short fiction film, commis-
Real life characters and their stories
sioned by Focus Features Africa First Program, has been travelling the festival circuit after premiering at the 63rd Berlin International
Magela Crosignani, 33, Cinematographer Magela Crosignani is a cinematographer
Film Festival, in February. “Kwaku Ananse” is
from Uruguay. Since her childhood she’s
a story about a Ghanaian girl of the diaspora,
been attracted to photography, painting
who travels to Ghana for her father’s funeral,
and drawing. Because of these passions,
and ends up having a closure moment in the
when she decided to work with cinema
forest with her father’s spirit.
it was more natural for her to think of
Favorite film: “Black Girl”, by Ousmane
storytelling in visual terms. Filmmaking
Sembene
for Magela, “is an art that needs visuals to communicate a story and sometimes
Cinema, even when it is extremely personal, is an art form that involves many people. Each one has their own function very well defined, and the division of labor is very important in film production. PLASTIC DREAMS interviewed young filmmakers from various cultures working in different positions in the industry. Aside from being passionate about cinema, they have one thing in common: they all have attended the prestigious Talent Campus at the Berlin International Film Festival.
a complex sentiment can be translated
By Marina Pecoraro Photos Courtesy of the artists
into a simple visual idea”. She has studied filmmaking at New York University (NYU),
“I shot my first feature film after graduating
where she focused on cinematography and
from AFI and I’ve not stopped since then.
documentary. After graduating from NYU
So far, I’ve shot around nine feature films
she received her Master’s degree from
as a cinematographer and few others
The American Film Institute (AFI) in Los
as a camera operator or second unit
Angeles, with a focus in Cinematography.
cinematographer”, shares the Uruguayan
Magela had the privilege of working on
cinematographer.
a Spike Lee movie in New York City as an
Favorite film: “Double Life of Veronique”,
intern, in her first real set experience.
by Krzysztof Kieslowski.
54
Plastic Dreams
55
CineMelissa Winter 2013
Here and below: movie stills from “Social Butterfly”, by Baltimorebased director Lauren Wolkstein, pictured in black and white.
Monica Palazzo, 34, Film and Art Director/Production Designer Monica Palazzo has always liked cinema, literature and creating realities. In her first year studying Image and Sound, at Universidade Federal de São Carlos, she was responsible for the art direction of short films as well as the décor and ambience of several parties. The production designer is responsible for creating a visual reality that will be filmed according to the story being told. He creates the context for the characters to exist, for the cinematographer to create the lighting, and for the director to orchestrate it all. “The production design needs to be consistent with the story being told. It’s his
On this page: stills from “Colors”, with production design by Monica Palazzo (pictured above). It is the first feature film by director Francisco Garcia, and has been shown in international film festivals in San Sebastián, São Paulo, Cartagena and Glasgow.
responsibility to understand the film that the director is doing, and work with him and the other professionals involved.” explains Monica. When this combination doesn’t
Lauren Wolkstein, 30, Screewriter and Film Director Lauren Wolkstein is an American
films, (‘Social Butterfly’, ‘The Strange Ones’ and ‘Cigarette Candy’) have won major awards and qualified for the Oscars”, reveals
Maria Alexandrovna Andreeva, 24, Cinematographer/Film Critic The youngest filmmaker interviewed by
emotions”. Since 2006 she’s been working as a film critic and has shot documentaries and short films with many directors from different
work, the spectators, even if they are not
screenwriter and film director, living and
Lauren. Her new film, “Social Butterfly”,
PLASTIC DREAMS was born and raised in Omsk,
countries. Maria Andreeva is the first member
film experts, will notice there’s something
working in Baltimore, Maryland. She was
world premiered at the 2013 Sundance Film
Siberia, before moving to Moscow to com-
of her family to work in the film industry.
missing or that the story is not plausible. In
considered one of the top twenty-five
Festival. For the upcoming director, cinema
plete her studies. “This has certainly affected
“My parents still don’t understand where I
her 10-year career Monica has worked in
emerging filmmakers by the Film Society
represents a way of expressing herself
my strong character!”, she says. Her way into
got this attraction from, but they’ve always
11 feature films and 25 short films. All her
of Lincoln Center and the Independent
visually in ways that she can’t do with words.
cinematography was paved during her school
been morally supportive”, she reveals. At the
experience and expertise as an art director
Filmmaker Project’s inaugural Emerging
For her, being a filmmaker means being able
years, when she learned painting, drawing and
moment she’s doing her PhD studies as a
and production designer is shared with the
Visions program at New York Film Festival,
to share stories and hopefully make a change
art history. “Visual sensitivity has always been
cinematographer at the Russian University of
students of the Academia Internacional
in 2011. Lauren majored in computer
in the way people view the world. “I like to
the main part of my perception and I’ve always
Cinematography, focusing on German Cinema.
de Cinema, AIC, as well as with graduate
science and film at Duke University, in North
be able to share different perspectives and
wanted to express myself through images”,
Favorite film: “Mournful Unconcern”, by
students of the Faculdade Belas Artes de
Carolina, and also studied film in graduate
tell stories of characters that will stick with
she explains. “At first I’d take photos, but it
Alexander Sokurov.
São Paulo and Escola de Comunicação e
school at Columbia University, in New York.
people forever like all of my favorite films
was not enough for me: the world of cinema
Artes from the University of São Paulo.
She has been working in the industry for
have done for me”, she says.
goes deeper and gives more depth not only to
Favorite film: “The Pillow Book”, by Peter
more than 10 year and directed several
Favorite film: “Paris, Texas”, by
express feelings but also to make people from
Greenaway.
short films during this time. “My last three
Wim Wenders.
different countries experience a great variety of
For more information about these and other filmmakers, check the Talent Campus website at berlinale-talentcampus.de
On top, movie still from “Good Morning, Azov”, with cinematography by Maria Andreeva (middle). Here, still from “Paris Moscow - Paris”, also photographed by Andreeva.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
fotos divulgação
A Female Point of View
Plastic Dreams
I
t is curious to note that many of the women who
A very interesting quality, common among many of
direct documentaries, both past and present, are
Brazil’s female documentarians, is the courage to tell
considered revolutionaries in both the aesthetics and
really personal stories. They are not afraid to go deep
techniques of filmmaking. Two great examples of this
into their family dramas and their intimacy, without any
would be Leni Riefenstahl and Agnès Varda. It is not
self-indulgence or self-pity. Recent films such as “Diary,
just because women have a feminine perspective or
Letters, Revolutions / Diário de uma Busca” (2010) by
a feminist point of view, its because women have made
Flávia Castro and “Elena” (2012) by Petra Costa, draw
substantial contributions to the growth of the medium,
upon, in different ways, Sandra Kogut’s “Hungarian Pass-
pioneering techniques that are widely used today by all
port” (2001). Kogut starts with a banal topic, her desire
filmmakers – both in documentaries and in fiction. It is
to obtain her European passport – but ends up telling a
virtually impossible to define and label “Female Cinema”
bitter-sweet story of exile, immigration and family roots.
due to the broad base of issues it encompasses and the various paths it has taken. The German director Leni Riefenstahl was one of the first and perhaps the greatest female documentary filmmaker of all time. Her films of the Nazi period, “Triumph of the Will” (1935) – about the rallies of Hitler in the 5th Convention of the National Socialist Party – and “Olym-
There is a certain sensibility which enables women to reach places and get results that men cannot.
pia” (1938) – about the Olympic Games in Berlin – are
Continuing with the theme of exile, Flávia Castro, in
considered revolutionary works and are fundamental in
her film “Diary, Letters, Revolutions” tries to understand
the history of cinema, placed alongside the great formal-
the reasons for the death of her father, a militant leftist
ists and creators of cinematic grammar. To get an idea of
in Brazil who, upon returning from abroad, dies under
the power and influence of her work, sport TV continues
suspicious circumstances at the home of the consul of
to repeat, in slow motion, shots that she envisioned for
Paraguay in Porto Alegre in 1984. In the film, documen-
“Olympia”, as well as the use of carts and rails to monitor
tary and fiction mingle again, and the documentation of
athletes racing – a technique that until then, was only
the search becomes more important than understanding
used in fiction films, not documentaries. Even with her
the reasons behind the death itself.
infamous association to the Nazi regime and her deep
The same observations can be made about the film
belief in National Socialism, it is impossible to think of film
“Elena” by Petra Costa. While investigating the suicide
without recognizing Riefenstahl’s contributions.
of her sister, Petra does not attempt to analyze her
Agnès Varda, on the other hand, is a key figure in the
sisters motives, but rather documents the anguish
creation of the French Nouvelle Vague. She was part
of those left behind, shattered, trying to pick up the
of the famed Rive Gauche gang, alongside Marguerite
pieces and continue living. Here fiction gives way to
Duras, Alain Resnais and Chris Marker, among others.
experimentation with video art, to better exemplify
“Cleo from 5 to 7” (1961), her best-known film, blurs the
the pain and sorrow of mourning.
boundaries between real and imaginary. With the inclusion
We can affirm that, more than a “female cinema”,
of fiction she expanded the formidable possibilities of
there is a female way of making films and a certain
documentaries, giving them a sense of freshness, youth
sensibility, which enables these women to reach places
Traditional cinema (fiction) has historically portrayed women as a passive object, on a pedestal of beauty. Documentaries have opened the window to allow women to tell their own stories, using their own voice and perspective with amazing results, not just to the narrative, but to filmmaking itself.
and verisimilitude that had never been seen before.
and get results that men cannot. The feminist docu-
By Clarice Reichstul
In Brazil, one of the most regarded female filmmakers
mentarian Laura Mulvey argues that cinema made
is Helena Solberg, director of “Carmen Miranda: Bananas Is
by women is a “counter-cinema” because it has to
My Business” (1995). Since her first film in 1966, women
struggle against the voyeurism and the fetishism in
and the female world have been the focus of her gaze,
which women are treated in traditional fiction cinema,
both in documentary and in fiction. Another great Brazilian
grounded in patriarchal beliefs. In the 1970s, at the
documentarian who has an extremely interesting trajec-
height of the feminist movement, women on both sides
tory is Sandra Kogut. Coming from a generation of video
of the Atlantic produced films from this perspective,
artists in the 1980s, Kogut took elements of video art and
especially in the United States and in France.
brought them to the documentary sphere and then took
The endless debate about the role of women in the
the documentary to fiction in her film “Mutum” (2007), an
cinema during the 1970s somehow liberated the follow-
adaptation of the book “Campo Geral” by Brazilian writer
ing generations from this question. Only after this period
Guimarães Rosa. In her films the three styles mix, offering
could we witness the production of women directors and,
a look that is both intimate and universal.
perhaps, a certain feminine vision.
Clockwise: Stills from “Olympia” (1938), by Leni Riefenstahl; “The Hungarian Passport” (2001), by Sandra Kogut; “Olympia”; “Diary, Letters, Revolutions…”, by Flávia Castro (2010). Pictured center, movie director Agnès Varda.
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“I’m a fashion person, and fashion is not only about clothes... It’s about all kinds of change”, declared karl Lagerfeld. His iconic home library in his photo studio in Central Paris has over 60 thousand books, making it one of the largest private libraries in the world. But the self-declared “happy victim of books” has also travelled the world throughout his decades of work and now holds some of the most exclusive and breathtaking information not only in his hands, but in his mind. And that means the possibility of change and reinvention, something he has mastered in. Here is a selection of some of his favorite things in the fields of contemporary and modern art, architecture and literature, as well as travel and tourism! Inspire change in your life with Karl’s likes. A further selection can be seen at karl.com.
gettyimages.com | personal archive
KARL’s likes
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
02 11 10
08
09
06 07
01
03
15 14 04
13 12
05
01 The book “Inside Rio”, by Michael Roberts, Maurilla Castello Branco, Nicolas Martin Ferreira and Lenny Niemeyer. 02 Karl Lagerfeld’s drawing for the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris, 2012. 03 A book documenting the work of Le Corbusier. 04 Artist Vik Muniz and one of his works made out of trash. 05 Titian’s Saint John the Baptist.
06 Painting by Austrian artist Egon Schiele. 07 Concept-store colette, Paris. 08 En Japanese Brasserie restaurant, NY. 09 Lydia Courteille store, Paris. 10 Artwork by Wassily Kandinsky. 11 View of exhibition by Cindy Sherman. 12 Hilditch & Key store, Paris. 13 “Venus at her Mirror”, by Diego Velázquez. 14 Compilation of the works of Canaletto and Francesco Guardi. 15 A book with works by Edward Hopper.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
The man who knows too much!!! The quality of a movie poster is essential for its success. And if we rely on Robert McGinnis’ talent, the CineMelissa collection will break several box office records in its premiere. For more than four decades his paintings have been on movie theater billboards worldwide. Having created over 1,000 posters for movies such as “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and “Barbarella” (not to mention all James Bond flicks from the 1960s and 1970s), this 87-year-old NorthAmerican is considered part of cinema’s iconography. Melissa is proud to have this inspiring artist as the creator of the new collection’s ad campaign. Ladies and gentlemen, Robert McGinnis.
check out the exclusive documentary made by melissa with Robert Mcginnis @ youtube.com/ melissachannel
By Duda Porto de Souza Photos Courtesy of Robert McGinnis
cover art today? How can it still innovate? What would you tell contemporary artists, working in these areas, to always keep in mind? RMCG Early posters and covers
got out of high school, my art
possessed a subtle charm;
was a thrill... Then my first
perhaps the imperfection of
book-cover assignments at
a handmade product by one
Dell Publishing... In film, the
individual brought out more
“Breakfast at Tiffany’s” poster
teacher, Mister Rice, gained acceptance for me at Walt Disney Studios in Hollywood… Later, joining Chaite Studios (an art studio) in New York
PLASTIC DREAMS Why did you decide to create for the brand Melissa? What was your inspiration? ROBERT MCGINNIS I suppose
tions, allowing imagination to
scene of John Wayne in the
loving care than one involving
and the James Bond posters...
flow, refining elements. The
character of “Ethan”), “King
a machine. Computers have
The Artist of the Year Award at
pencil is like a searchlight gui-
Kong”, “Casablanca”, “The
emerged over brush painting.
the “Romantic Times” gala…
ding me safely into harbor.
Third Man”, and many more…
There is no denying the speed
Then the two books on my
and of course the lavish
and endless variations that
work – “Tapestry: The Art of
the curiosity and excitement
Hollywood musicals (with
are possible with computer
Robert E. McGinnis” and “The
stars such as Fred Astaire
art; however, the same
Paperback Book Covers of
the heart of illustration,
PD In your own words, how would you describe your women? RMCG Essential qualities:
and Eleanor Powell). I prefer
fundamentals of imagination,
RMCG”. And lastly, to my utter
sets in motion imagination
Intelligent, feminine, delicate,
the black-and-white movies
staging and design are
surprise, my induction into
and images with endless
refined. In movement, graceful
of the 1920s and 1930s, for
required, despite the method
the Society of Illustrators Hall
possibilities; all of which
and fluid, with subtle muscular
they represent a vanishing
of transport.
of Fame in 1993… Paintings I
are present with Melissa...
definition.
American culture that I grew
of creativity, which is at
PD Can you share with us a little bit of your creative process? What are the most important aspects of your paintings? RMCG Always first, with
Geographic Magazine, and also
Francis, Merle Oberon, Marlene
PD Can you share with us some of the highlights of your career? RMCG Several moments stand
Dietrich, Norma Shearer, Vivian
out. When I was a child of 10,
the “Milo March” M.E. Chaber
Leigh, Carol Landis, Jeanette
my mother signed me up for
(author) series were favorites
MacDonald – to name a few!
art lessons at the Cincinnati
of mine… And now, all my
Art Museum, and walking
thanks to Melissa for giving
into that great world of art
me this opportunity
was very exciting… After I
to carry on!
up with. Also, the actresses
an allure that beckons.
PD What are some of your favorite movies of all times and do you have a particular genre that you prefer to watch and to work with? Why? RMCG Some of my favorite
were far more beautiful then than now. For examples: Kay
movies: “Stagecoach”, “The
pencil in hand, preliminary
Searchers” (based on this
drawings forming composi-
movie, I painted a western
like?: “Inca Wars” for National
PD What is the role of movie poster and paperback book
“China Trade”… In paperbacks, the “Shell Scott” Richard Prather (author) series and
Robert McGinnis (above, left), in his house in Greenwich, town located 50km from NY, and some of his creations: posters from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”(1961), “Barbarella”(1968), and his first book cover (for “Some Like it Cool”, 1965); opposite page, a true James Bond moment and one of his divas.
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Divas of the CineMelissa collection emanate a timeless and chic glamour Who wouldn’t like to be portrayed in a movie by a glamourous actress and, who knows, have their image on a movie poster? Experience this emotion in the images created by artist Robert McGinnis for the CineMelissa collection. They present nuances of nostalgia, even though still timeless, and take us to an almost dreamlike world. melissa doris clutch melissa chromatic
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melissa spikes
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CineMelissa Outono/Inverno 2013
melissa ultragirl high
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I’M LIVING MY MEMOIR, I DON’T NEED TO WRITE IT.
Karlism
They say an image is worth a million words. In the case of Karlisms, you can say the opposite. karl Lagerfeld’s equally enlightening, fantastic and humorous quotes are the result of decades of unique experience in the fashion business. Ladies and gentleman, here are nuggets of wisdom from the designer himself. Enjoy our favorite Karlisms!
THE BEST THINGS I’VE DONE IN MY LIFE, I SAW THEM IN MY SLEEP, THIS IS WHY I HAVE A SKETCH BOOK IN MY BED.
L’ÉLÉGANCE N’EST NI UNE QUESTION DE PORTE MANTEAU, NI UNE QUESTION DE PORTE MONNAIE.
FASHION IS A LANGUAGE THAT CREATES ITSELF IN CLOTHES TO INTERPRET REALITY.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
CHANGE IS THE HEALTHIEST WAY TO SURVIVE. I DESIGN LIKE i BREATHE. YOU DON’T ASK TO BREATHE. IT JUST HAPPENS.
FASHION IS ABOUT TWO THINGS: THE EVOLUTION AND THE OPPOSITE.
PERSONALITY BEGINS WHERE COMPARISON ENDS.
LE LUXE, C’EST LA LIBERTÉ D’ESPRIT, L’INDÉPENDANCE, BREF LE POLITIQUEMENT INCORRECT. JE N’AIME ÊTRE QUE DE PASSAGE. JE SUIS NÉ DANS UN PORT, À HAMBOURG, DONT MA MÈRE DISAIT: ‘C’EST LA PORTE DU MONDE, MAIS CE N’EST QUE LA PORTE, ALORS DEHORS!’
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Since the beginning, fashion and movies have always had a lot in common. Both deal with desire and fantasy. At the start of the 21st Century, this coalition has become more united, with film directors creating campaigns and films directly for the fashion market, while fashion photographers are flirting with movies and video. These products are known as fashion films, a media that mixes art, music videos, fashion, movies and advertising. Here is a selection of some of the best examples of this trend that is only just beginning.
“SECRET GARDEN – VERSAILLES” Shot at the Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles, and directed by acclaimed fashion photographers duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin (read an interview with thwm on p. 72), this video had more then 6 millions views on Youtube. Breathtaking sets, a stunning cast dressed in luxurious clothes and Depeche Mode’s classic “Enjoy The Silence” as the soundtrack all combined for a very inspirational film – truly historic!
SEARCH FOR SECRET GARDEN VERSAILLES on youtube.com
“L’ODYSSÉE DE CARTIER”
By Sergio Amaral
Russia, the Wall of China, Taj Mahal, Grand Palais, the Louvre Museum, horses,
“THE NEW MIX”
a Chinese dragon and a panther (the icon of the brand) all show up on this
Karl Lagerfeld is the author of this video in
super production of epic dimension that celebrated the 165th anniversary of
partnership with photographer Barnaby Roper. The
Cartier jewelry. Directed by award winning multimedia artist Bruno Aveillan,
title suggests both a new mixture in fashion and a music
the movie took two years in the making, was exhibited on open TV, in movie
remix. The encounter between the worlds of fashion and music
theaters and got more then 16 million views on Youtube.
SEARCH FOR L’ODYSSÉE DE CARTIER on youtube.com
become even more evident when top models such as Anja Rubik, Saskia de Braw and Sui He show the collection’s looks in looping, whilst Karl Lagerfeld represents the DJ/creator of this mix.
“THE POWDER ROOM”
SEARCH FOR THE NEW MIX KARL LAGERFELD on youtube.com
Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada’s young brand, launched a movie project of their own: “Women’s
LANVIN FALL 2011”
Tales”, in which they invited distinctive female
Directed by fashion photographer Steven Meisel, this campaign for French label
filmmakers to explore the brand’s universe. In the first film
Lanvin became an instant hit amongst fashionistas due to its unpretentious
of the series, “The Powder Room” – shot at the traditional
nature. Wearing some of the most iconic looks of last summer’s collection (when
Claridge’s Hotel in London – North-American director Zoe
the video was launched), tops Karen Elson, Rachel Zimmermann and two boys
Cassavetes (daughter of famous “indie” actor/director John
have fun dancing to the beats of “I Know You Want Me”, by Pitbull. The video has
Cassavetes and actress Gena Rowlands) gives us an intimate
a very special appearance by Alber Elbaz, Creative Director of Lanvin, who reminds
look of this ultra-feminine environment of luxury and beauty.
us of one of fashion’s main principles: sometimes you just need to have fun!
SEARCH FOR THE POWDER ROOM MIU MIU on youtube.com
SEARCH FOR LANVIN 2012 AD CAMPAIGN on youtube.com
“L.A.DY DIOR”
“GIRLS ON FILM”
Even Hollywood actresses (who would’ve
Duran Duran’s classic song gives the title as well as the
guessed?) have their moments of anger, in this funny
soundtrack of this video produced and directed by Inez
and witty short directed by John Cameron Mitchell (from
Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, to celebrate Vogue
“Hedwig and the Angry Inch” and “Shortbus”). French superstar
Paris’ 90th anniversary and the launch of the magazine’s
Marion Cotillard is the ultimate diva in crisis with the “hard life” of a
I-Pad app. It’s a pure fashion celebration and shows the
movie star. Surrounded by limousines, champagne, bitchy hairdressers
backstage of an ultra-glamorous fashion shoot. Flirting with
and babbling stylists, Marion’s character decides to literally throw
a music video style, it stars Brazilian top Isabeli Fontana,
everything up in the air. SEARCH FOR L.A.DY DIOR on youtube.com
Anja Rubik and Natasha Poly as the models. The magazine’s editor, Emanuelle Alt, is responsible for the styling.
“GARETH PUGH”
SEARCH FOR GIRLS ON FILM VOGUE PARIS on youtube.com
A fan of the use of video as a fashion tool, Brit designer Gareth Pugh used
“SHADE PARADE”
the format to present his Autumn/
Proving that great ideas don’t necessarily need big
Winter 2009 collection. Partially shot
budgets, this video entertains while presenting the new color scheme of the much-desired nail polishes from Chanel. With a very well thoughtout choreography of hands and fingers with
filled with unusual forms, revealing the creative universe of the designer.
SEARCH FOR SHOWstudio PUGH HOGBEN 2009 on youtube.com
stills from the movies
in black and white, the result is very conceptual, dramatic, geometric and
stills from the movies
filMfashionfilmfashion
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perfect nails, it creates a “Chorus Line” of the brand, Cabaret-like, in which the “dancers” perform can-can and shake over pearl necklaces, one of the brand’s most recognizable icons. Super cute and super cool!
SEARCH FOR SHADE PARADE CHANNEL on youtube.com
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Images from the couple’s solo exhibition at Gagosian Gallery in Paris, which ran from March to January 2013. Opposite page, Inez & Vinoodh, who have been working together since the late 80s, in a portrait by Melanie Ward.
Digital masters
It is simply impossible to talk about blending fashion, photography and film without mentioning Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Partners in both life and work for 25 years, they met while studying art and photography. Since beginning to work together in the late 1980s, they have created images for the leading international brands in luxury and fashion, as well as the most influential publications. Their trajectory and experience have made them true masters of digital manipulation. “We realized that film would start to take over from photography”, they say, in an insight that changed their lives forever and would allow their By Duda Porto de Souza work to reach an even larger audience. Photos Courtesy of the artists
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n an exclusive interview with PLASTIC DREAMS, the world famous duo discuss how the introduction of
On both pages, images from the artists’ exhibition at Gagosian Paris. Inez & Vinoodh were amongst the first photographers to show the public the full potential of digital manipulation.
video has impacted the
fashion industry, their own lives, and reveal a breathtaking future project.
PLASTIC DREAMS How do you see this moment in which so many prestigious fashion photographers are using video as a media to create campaigns, short films and other pieces in the fashion industry? Do you think it is a crisis of photography or a consequence of the youtube generation? INEZ + VINOODH It is an exciting moment that is the great consequence of the youtube generation. It allows us to tell a bigger more complex
from a regular director, whose
and vibrant story for a larger
background is usually making
audience (both of our Dior
feature films.
and Louis Vuitton films have
deliver both print and video of
PD When did you start using video as a language for your work and why? Did it start informally or already as a request from a client or a brand? I+V We started about four years
the same quality, plus the fact
ago when we realized that
that we understand fashion,
film would start to take over
beauty and body language, and
from photography and decided
are able to translate that into
to be ahead of the curve and
moving images sets us apart
suggested to our clients that
reached a total of over 40 million viewers each). Our clients realized that hiring a separate photographer and movie director does not always work out well. Our ability to
“This meant working 48 hours around the clock in 109 degrees heat, but each time Gaga stepped into our white space it was fireworks and pure inspiration”, reveal Inez and Vinoodh about the timeless “Haus of Yoü” videos they did for Lady Gaga.
they add the time and the
It has tripled our workload but
Stanley Kubrik are great
money for a video for the web.
also made it 3x more exciting.
influences of ours.
PD Before you started using video in a professional manner, did you have to look for and learn new skills and techniques to better utilize this medium? Did it mean changing your everyday professional lives? I+V It changes everything. The
PD How has cinema influenced your work? Can you share with us some of your favorite movies? I+V We have always been
PD What was your most intense and demanding video experience and why? I+V The five “Haus of Yoü”
PD The spectator can see that many of your videos include a lot of production. Do you have a “dream project” that you would like to create and record? I+V We would love to do a
videos we did for Lady
music video for Prince.
excited by cinema and music
Gaga, that were launched
videos. Camera movement,
next to her official video for
lighting, editing techniques,
“You and I” were the most
crew has grown with exciting
and the use of music and
intense and also the most
PD Do you have any plans of making a movie in the future? I+V We are developing the
new people for camera and
sound effects by directors
exciting. We were situated
idea for a sci-fi rock opera
special effects etc. We have a
like David Lynch, Alexander
in a pig stable in a Nebraska
motion picture.
full time editor on staff and we
Sokourov, Antonioni, Eric
cornfield and had to build a
spend days editing with him.
Rohmer, David Fincher and
white studio within it. Gaga
scene. This meant working 48
PD Could you share with us some of the video projects that you will launch in 2013? We all look forward to seeing and sharing them! ;-) I+V There will be a new
hours around the clock in 109
film for Dior and the
degree heat, but each time
second installment of the
Gaga stepped into our white
Louis Vuitton’s project
space it was fireworks and
“Invitation au Voyage”,
pure inspiration.
with Arizona Muse.
was shooting the “You and I” video there and we would shoot her different personas each time she’d finish a
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One iPhone in hand, one ideia in your head Showing your talent has never been so easy, In a high tech or low tech way! Smartphone + simple editing program + youtube = an accurate formula to create (and launch) your own movie! By Duda Leite However, success comes from your inspiration!
maker Glauber Rocha
W
portant aspect in filmmaking. In
on your iPhone, Cinemagram
but in productions with smaller
(the father of the “Ci-
Brazil, there has been a long dis-
(the movie version of the ultra-
budgets you can not use it. I
nema Novo” movement) said in
cussion about creating a system
popular Instagram) is a good
really like the Canon C300. I’ve
the 1960s his famous phrase “a
that requires film distributors
option, although most of the
already used it with many differ-
camera in hand, an idea in the
to showcase local productions.
videos there are very basic, with
ent lenses and I’m always happy
head”, he had no clue he was
But a quick visit to any shopping
low-tech special effects. Don’t
with the result. My third option
predicting the digital revolution.
mall in any Brazilian city shows
forget: a good idea in your head
is the Red Scarlet with a Canon
that this did not work. The
is the most important!
nozzle. Everyone has the lenses,
hen Brazilian film-
At that time the cameras
The distribution is another im-
If your film is a short produced
If you really want to become
the best texture and latitude,
Producing images became something very easy to do, but producing something good, remains as difficult as ever. It has hard to call attention amongst a multimedia crowd.
the sensor is good, the price is
were large and heavy, and the
overwhelming majority of films
movies were expensive and
being shown are Hollywood
a professional in the audio-
almost the same as to shoot
to draw attention to your product.
needed to be developed in
blockbusters. So if your idea is to
visual field, today there is a
with a Canon 5D, but the result
According to Fernando there is a
the challenge remains to
out of the ordinary! After all,
laboratories. Nowadays anyone
make a more “indie” film, “do it
wide range of options ranging
is infinitely better”. Fred is eager
unification of images. “Producing
produce something original.
when someone chooses to make
with a small digital camera or
yourself” style, your best option
from more professional digital
to test the Black Magic and the
images became something very
Therefore, take note of what’s
films – analog, digital or even
even an iPhone (or almost any
would be the internet. Nowa-
cameras (like the REDs and the
Canon C500.
easy to do, but producing some-
happening around you. Pay
virtual what matters most is the
smart phone with a camera) and
days with Youtube or Vimeo (the
super popular Canon 5D and 7D),
thing good, remains as difficult as
attention to your friends, neigh-
content. An iPhone in hand, an
a computer with a basic editing
favorite site for “indie” filmmak-
to more basic ones like GoPro,
have to think about the distribu-
ever”, he adds.
bors, family, pets etc., and think
idea in your head!
program can make a movie.
ers) anyone can display their
which has the option of shooting
tion. “I’m super in favor of the
After producing your film, you
latest work to a big audience or
underwater – perfect for making
democratization in all digital
need a computer. With some
even be discovered by some big
a movie during your next vaca-
media, it makes it so much easier
“apps” like “Splice” you can edit
Hollywood producer!
tion in California or in Thailand,
for people to be creative”, says
There are on-line festivals
depending on your budget! All
Fernando “Del” Reginato, director
own iPhone. (Check the BOX
specialized in virtually every
of these cameras record in full
of many music videos, includ-
with the Apps).
genre, from documentaries to
HD; quality accepted by most TV
ing “Mariô”, from Brazilian artist
horror movies. One of the coolest
channels, if you decide to sell
Criolo. “Nowadays it is very easy
to have a good idea in mind!
sites to display your movie is
your product.
for an artist to record an album,
And that depends entirely on
Mubi (www.mubi.com), which
you. A good tip is to start shoot-
has a nice selection ranging from
director Fred Ouro Preto, who
the movie or music video and sell
ing things from your daily life,
classics to films that were never
directed the award winning
the product all from the comfort
like your boyfriend (or girlfriend)
released for distribution at the
music video “Zica Vai Lá”, from
of their own house.” adds
surfing in a paradisiacal beach,
theatres. My documentary “Tiki-
Brazilian rap sensation Emicida
Fernando. But if on one hand it
or your kitten (or puppy) being
mentary”, about the Tiki culture,
prefers to work with the Arri
became very easy to produce,
cute, that’s entirely up to you.
for example, is available there.
Alexa. According to Fred, “it has
the downside is it’s much harder
Sometimes, you don’t even
your next masterpiece on your
But back to Glauber, you need
Advertising and music video
create their own website, direct
So, sexy girls and cute boys:
about something original, that’s
whatsapp? ;-) DIY!!!!!!!!!! Cinemagram Cinemagram is an iPhone “app” that brought to the world of movies the same democracy that Instagram brought to photography. With cool filters that can add some style to your “minimovies”, anyone can pretend to be Spielberg, Tarantino or Gus Van Sant, depending on your taste.
I-Supr8 Would you like to make your movie look “vintage”? There are several options for the I-Phone. One of the coolest is the “Super 8 ™”. It makes your phone turn into an old Super 8 camera and the result is amazing.
I-FilmDirector This “app” has a more professional feel to it. With “I-Film Director” you can record, edit, choose a soundtrack and publish your film, all in the same “app”, without needing to have a computer.
Splice Splice is an “app” specifically created for editing. It is not so simple to use: the interface is kinda complex. Better stick to the “I-FilmDirector” or import your film to your computer and edit it using Final Cut Pro, available for Apple computers.
Pin-up culture immerse yourself in a different era! elegant pin-ups wearing some of the hits of the new cinemelissa collection. creative direction Eduardo Jord達o de Magalh達es photography Sandrine Dulermo & Michael Labica fashion director Neil Stuart fashion editor Cheryl Konteh make up Terry Barber @ DWM using MAC hair Anna Cofone using Frederic Fekkai hair assistant Kerri Ewart nail technician Andrea Fulerton @ Emma Davies using Andrea Fulerton Nail Boutique set Designer Jude Singleton models Anya, Lysa & Sofia @ Storm
knickers Miu Miu vintage dress Emanuel Ungaro hat Piers Atkinson
Melissa marilyn
Due to print reproduction some styles may suffer color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available.
dress Dolce & Gabbana hat Stephen Jones vintage jewelry
Melissa harmonic
rubber dress Atsuko Kudo vintage glasses hat Piers Atkinson
Melissa doris spikes
bikini Paul Smith hat Piers Atkinson vintage jewelry
Melissa billy creepers
Following page: rubber bra and knickers Atsuko Kudo headband Stephen Jones
vivienne westwood anglomania + Melissa animal toe
corset and tulle skirt I.D.Sarrieri sequin knickers Miu Miu
Melissa kristen
all wear bodies Wolford headbands Top Shop
Melissa moon dust special Melissa moon dust Melissa riding
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CineMelissa Winter 2013 01 Stars of the new CineMelissa collection backstage. 02 Model Anya Alice Marie Barker poses for photographers Sandrine Dulermo and Michael Labica. 03 and 04 Hair stylist Anna Cofone in action, who opted for a modern take on the pin-up looks of the 30s, creating sexy wavy hair and perfect red lips.
The new old Hollywood Join Melissa’s team in reinventing the classic beauty of Hollywood’s golden era – an exclusive photoshoot in london.
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03
04
By Ilana Rehavia, London Photos Tom Ellis
T
he mood in London’s
fashion editor Neil Stuart. He
Coconut studios was one
put together playful looks
of classic glamour. Inspi-
mixing rubber dresses with
red by the pin-ups of a bygone
couture hats, vintage pieces and
era and the sirens of the silver
modern designers.
screen, our team put together
Meanwhile, the beauty team
a modern interpretation of
went all out with glitter nails,
old Hollywood.
sexy wavy hair and the perfect
Right in the middle of the
red lip. “We did a modern take
set, an original Corvette - red as
on the pin-up looks of the 30s”,
they should always be - drew
explains hair stylist Anna Cofone.
gasps from every crewmember
Nail technician Andrea
that arrived for the shoot. All
Fulerton couldn’t resist giving
shiny and cute, the converti-
model Sofia a classic half-mo-
ble was a good match for the
on 50s mani. “She has one of
beauty of our three gorgeous
the most beautiful natural set
models, Sofia, Lysa and Anya.
of nails I’ve worked with. They
“The idea behind this shoot was to take the Melissa girls on a trip to Hollywood with
are perfection personified”, reveals Andrea. Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor
glamorous nights out and fun
and Marilyn Monroe would
times at the beach”, reveals
definitely approve!
Our models Sofia Milo Serbian model Sofia Milo was discovered at 14 in her native Belgrade. Her long list of amazing jobs includes campaigns and shows for Valentino, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Betsey Johnson. Sofia lives in New York, but is in love with Brazil. “The mentality is so similar to my country, because both Brazilians and Serbians are very friendly and like to enjoy life, dance and have fun.” She’ll never forget flying in a helicopter past Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, during a gorgeous sunset. “I was speechless.” Favourite film: “The Godfather”, by Francis Ford Coppola.
Lysa Onysko While she waits in hair and make up, Ukrainian Lysa can be found with her face buried in a book. She’s just started studying History of Europe and America, using distance learning to suit her nomad lifestyle. Lysa was scouted five years ago in her hometown, Lviv. “I love modelling, meeting people, discovering new places and being on these amazing artistic shoots.” One of her most memorable jobs was being underwater for a GQ magazine shoot at the iconic Pineapple Studios, in London. “It was the experience of a lifetime.” Favourite film: “The Game”, by David Fincher.
Anya Alice Marie Barker Beauty runs in the genes of British-Swedish model Anya. Her mum used to be a model and, when Anya was scouted, encouraged her girl to try it out. “I am a bit of a class clown and until then I always wanted to act.” Not that Anya is complaining. She recognizes the opportunities that come with the job and enjoys the fact that she had to grow up faster than her friends. One of her highlights so far was taking part in the show for Beyoncé’s clothing line. “Meeting the singer backstage was definitely a bonus. She was flawless.” Favourite film: “Blow-up”, by Michelangelo Antonioni.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Generations of romance
Y
By Suzy Capó
oung readers please
cowboys. It’s a tragic love
is no contemporary
in the subject in the 1930s.
story, but so is “Romeo and
film today that represents
The golden age of Hollywood
Juliet”. Many romantic movies
love like the classics of the
coincided with the Great
have been loosely adapted
golden age of Hollywood did.
Depression, the worst and
from this Shakespearean play,
True, the films in the Twilight
longest period of economic
especially “West Side Story”,
Saga, based on the books by
recession of the 20th century.
set in the 1950’s.
Stephenie Meyer, are mega
Romantic films served as an
romantic, but when I look
escape for viewers, especially
Story”, the original score of
for pictures to illustrate my
when the main characters
the film is considered one
fantasies of eternal love,
overcame obstacles, declared
of the best of the romantic
the scenes that come to my
their love and lived happily
genre for its memorable
mind are from classics such
ever after. In that context,
songs. Music and romance
as “Gone With the Wind…,”
it is easy to understand the
- How could you not think
“Casablanca” and “From Here
appeal of the genre and, con-
of “Ghost”, when listening
to Eternity”.
sequently, the interest of the
to “Unchained Melody”?
studios in promoting it.
And Vangelis’ soundtrack
mean that there is no romance anymore. But maybe the studios
In the golden years of
And speaking of “West Side
for “Blade Runner” almost
economic growth in the U.S.,
transforms this classic sci-fi
many romances implemented
into a romantic movie. Some
invested more in this theme
humor. Two acting couples
tracks from certain movies
in the past. In the book “Con-
became famous at this stage
define a generation. Just think
suming Romantic Utopia,”
of romantic comedies. Be-
of Simon & Garfunkel’s “Miss
sociologist Eva Illouz notes
tween 1942 and 1957, Kath-
Robinson” from “The Gradu-
that surveys taken in 1935, at
erine Hepburn and Spencer
ate”, one of cinema’s best
the height of the Hollywood
Tracy starred in five films that
romantic movies ever.
golden-era, showed that
focus on the way the couple
love was the most important
relate to each other, rather
the films, but the way the
theme of the movies.
than how they got together.
stories are told that defines a
It was a precursor of how the
generation. The films reflect,
Greta Garbo became stars for
genre would evolve in the
but also at the same time
their ability to show on the
1970’s, particularly after the
shape the aspirations of the
screen the feeling of passion.
release of Woody Allen’s “An-
societies in which they are
This skill became especially
nie Hall”. Doris Day and Rock
produced. Thus, contemporary
important after the Hayes
Hudson also became very
romances are sometimes told
Code went into effect in
popular in the 1950’s for their
out of chronological order,
1934, which dictated what
so-called “sex comedies”,
as in “Eternal Sunshine of
could and what could not be
that despite the term, were
the Spotless Mind” or “The
seen on screen. Since there
extremely chaste.
Curious Case of Benjamin
At the time, actresses like
DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy of paris filmes
the relationship between two
industry invested so much
Of course, this does not
Actors Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr immortalize one of cinema’s most romantic kisses in “From here to Eternity” (1953). Opposite page, Kristen Stewart and Robert Pattinson bring romance back to the screens for a younger audience in “Twilight” (2008).
Its no wonder that the film
forgive me, but there
Actually, it’s not only
were several restrictions on
Not all romantic couples
the kissing, body language,
portray the loving relation-
Button”. But the quest for immortal love is eternal. That’s
and especially the expres-
ship between a man and a
why Bella and Edward will
siveness of the eyes, became
woman. One of Hollywood’s
live in the romantic imagery
critical to fill the voids in
most romantic movies is
of future generations, forever
romantic scenes.
“Brokeback Mountain”, about
and ever.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Cine Quiz Test your knowledge
Our cinema experts prepared a special quiz for you to test your knowledge. But don’t think it will be a piece of cake! Characters, screenplays, actors, box office hits, we have included a bit of everything. Enjoy the journey and have fun!!!
4. Black Mamba, the bride portrayed by Uma
5. The pop-influenced thriller “Breathless” (1959) is considered a cult movie and is one of the best examples of French New Wave. Based on a François Truffaut screenplay, the movie launched to fame its director Jean-Luc Godard and its star Jean-Paul Belmondo. In
the movie, Belmondo is the romantic interest of a North American actress who built a career in Europe. What’s her name? a) Josephine Baker b) Grace Kelly c) Jean Seberg d) Charlotte Rampling 6. In which film of the “Star Wars” franchise, written by George Lucas, does Luke Skywalker’s character find out that Darth Vader is his father? a) “Star Wars: Episode VI: Return of the Jedi by Richard Marquand b) “Star Wars: Episode II: Attack of the Clones”, by George Lucas c) “Star Wars: Episode I: The Phantom Menace”, by George Lucas
photos vivi bacco AND COURTESY OF THE DISTRIBUTORS
3. The main prize at the Cannes Film Festival, the most important festival in the world, is the Golden Palm. Two other prestigious festivals are held annually in Europe, in Venice and Berlin. What are the names of the prizes given at these festivals to the Best Film in Competition? a) Golden Pyramid and Golden Calf b) Golden Lion and Golden Bear c) Golden Alexander and Golden Star d) Golden Shell and Golden Leopard
Thurman in “Kill Bill” by Quentin Tarantino, wears a yellow jumpsuit identical to the one used by a legendary martial arts fighter and actor in his last film called “Game of Death”. Who was that actor? a) David Carradine b) Bruce Lee c) Jackie Chan d) Jet Li
photos shutterstock.com AND COURTESY OF THE DISTRIBUTORS
2. Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar won an Oscar in 2003 for the film “Talk to Her”. In which category did he win? a) Best Adapted Screenplay b) Best Foreign Movie c) Best Director
d) Best Original Screenplay
1: C, 2: D, 3: B, 4: B, 5: C, 6: D, 7: B, 8: C, 9: A, 10: C, 11: D, 12: B, 13: D, 14: C
1. Released in Germany, at the beginning of the 1920’s, this famous horror movie (directed by F. W. Murnau) is considered until today one of the best of its genre. What’s the title of this silent-classic, shot in black and white, and starring Max Schreck? a) “Dracula” b) “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari” c) “Nosferatu” d) “Frankenstein”
d) “Star Wars: Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back”, by Irvin Kershner
b) Roy Scheider c) Bob Fosse d) Herbert Ross
7. What is the highestgrossing Brazilian movie of all time? a) “Two Sons of Francisco”, by Breno Silveira b) “Elite Squad: The Enemy Within”, by José Padilha c) “If I Were You 2”, by Daniel Filho d) “Lady on the Bus”, by Neville de Almeida
9. At the end of the 1990’s, new legislation provided support for local film production and helped to successfully increase the number of films made in Brazil, bringing the country back to the international scene. What movie is considered responsible for this “new wave of Brazilian cinema”? a) “Carlota Joaquina, Princess of Brasil”, by Carla Camurati b) “City of God”, by Fernando Meirelles and Kátia Lund c) “Foreign Land”, by Walter Salles d) “Central Station”, by Walter Salles
8. “All That Jazz” (1979) explores the psychological conflicts of a dancer/ choreographer called Joe Gideon. The movie is based on a biography of the films director. What’s his name? a) Lenny Dale
10. What’s the title of the South-Korean movie from 2003, in which a man is kidnapped and kept hostage in a room for 15 years and then goes on a journey to find out the reason why? a) “Rashomon”, by Akira Kurosawa b) “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”, by Ang Lee c) “Oldboy”, by Park Chan-wook d) “Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives” by Apichatpong Weerasethakul 11. “Toto, we are not in Kansas anymore” is a line immortalized in one of Hollywood’s greatest classic films of all time.
Who said that line? a) Mary Kane (Agnes Moorehead), in “Citizen Kane” b) Scarlett O’Hara (Vivian Leigh), in “Gone With The Wind” c) Margo Channing (Bette Davies), in “All About Eve” d) Dorothy Gale (Judy Garland), in “The Wizard of Oz” 12. Six actors have officially played James Bond, also known as 007, a secret agent in the British espionage service. Which actor below has not played the character, created by Ian Fleming? a) George Lazenby b) Colin Firth c) Pierce Brosnam d) Daniel Craig
13. In Dreamworks animated 3D production, “Kung Fu Panda 2”, Tigress was part of the Furious Five clan. Which actress below was the voice of Tigress? a) Jodi Benson b) Natalie Portman c) Lucy Liu d) Angelina Jolie 14. The song “Maniac”, by Michael Sembello, is part of the soundtrack of a very successful film from the 1980’s. What’s the name of the movie? a) “Fame”, by Alan Parker b) “Footloose”, by Herbert Ross c) “Flashdance”, by Adrian Lyne d) “Dirty Dancing”, by Emile Ardolino.
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Your feet in movement The Cinemelissa collection is full of drama, comedy, suspense and action. In the Winter 2013, pick your mood and make an entrance worthy of the red carpet. Lights, camera, action! The rest of this story is up to you. By Duda Porto de Souza
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Melissa spikes #nightandday #sexy #rockdiva
spike up your life!!!! These galosh-inspired boots becomes hype with spikes. The utilitarian style, which has always been a must at music festivals, now comes with more fashion than ever!
PEEP-TOE LOVE The spikes are here to stay and in this deluxe, peep-toe style, they are gracing the back. The matte finish and the stiletto heel reinforce the rock’n’roll muse style. With the option of a fluo-
access melissa’s fanpage! Download the QR code scan App on your smartphone. Place it close to the image and take a photograph. Melissa hopes you enjoy this content!
rescent heel, extra glam!
Laid back look! You know those days when you want to ‘dress down’, comfortable, with special attention to the
Melissa doris #urbanretro #deepdye # femininity
Melissa moon dust special #musicfestivals #totalhype #ilovetherain
accessories? Melissa Virtue III is the perfect choice. With metal spike applications, this style will match everything this winter.
Melissa virtue iii #yeah #joker #slippers
The Right Trend! This classic pointy-toe shoe design brings femininity to all looks, Melissa Doris, a lowheeled style with sinuous lines, is available is two very special versions. The first utilizes the deep dye effect that is a hot trend at the moment in fashion. Melissa Doris Spikes, on the other hand, has an ‘alternative’ feel, with metal spikes Due to print reproduction some styles may suffer color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available.
inspired by the underground movement. This look is conquering both the international catwalks and the streets and is sure to be a winter hit.
Melissa doris spikes #connected #streetfashion #underground
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Melissa campana zig zag #design #wefts #brazilianpride Melissa campana zig zag for Kids #like #dancefloor #glitter Melissa ultragirl vii #fun #flocked #classic
Collector’s Items Following up our successful partnership, the Campana Brothers are back in revamped versions for all ages. The
mini melissa campana zig zag ix #pop #baby #supercute
Melissa ultragirl high #versatile #sweet #revamped
BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S STYLE 1950s inspired, Ultragirl High makes a statement in the CineMelissa collection, with its Lolita
Zig Zag style is available in glitter and
style medium heel. The gold lace detail is super
features a more subdued color palette.
delicate, charming and completes the girlie look.
They are available in adult, children
The original version of this classic style has a new
and baby sizes. A true collector’s item!
color palette with a flocked effect.
Fairy Tales The classic Melissa Ultragirl, interpreted here by British body artist J. Maskrey, whose fan list
Melissa divine iii #rainbowdecor #goodhumour #pussycat
includes Britney Spears, J.Lo, Rihanna and Kate Moss, is back with Swarovsky crystals on the forefront of the shoe. Innovation is the perfect recipe for a happy ending!
Welcome Eccentricity Isn’t it a delight when you’re walking down the street, look down, and start to smile? Melissa Divine III is guaranteed to make you grin! Its humorous adornment is the key to its charm. The style features a kitten face that will certainly win hearts!
Melissa ultragirl + j. maskrey #precious #glitz #happyending
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CineMelissa Winter 2013 mini melissa polibolha #pop #bicolor #girlsandboys
graphic Melissa has done it again; highlighting one of the most prevailing trends in fashion footwear, with our own interpretation. Melissa Divine IV features stripes, plaid and polka dots in black and white, the perfect combination for those ultra colorful days. Smashing!!!
Melissa divine iv #polkadots #stripes #blackandwhite
mini Melissa furadinha ii #sweet #picnic #hearts
vivienne westwood anglomania + mini melissa ultragirl iv #classic #princess #parties
mini mini mini With textures that resemble bubble wrap, the classic tennis Polibolha now comes with a Mini version (numbering 17 to 25), and can be worn by girls and boys. The new versions of Ultragirl and
Clutch My Heart
Mini melissa ultragirl ii #littlefoxes #smile #fun
Furadinha will make the little ones super happy! Check out the editorial on p. 110.
Chromatic, the bicolor, clutch purse, embraces the new trend in color blocking, more sophisticated tones. The small golden diamond detail is chic. The model comes in total black, black and white, black and royal blue, brown and pink and green and grey.
Melissa chromatic #citygirl #seduction #bicolor
Our dear Minnie ;-) She’s the world’s most famous mouse and her iconic bow is part of the CineMelissa collection, in styles for baby, children and adults. Retro style images of the classic character are featured on the insoles this season, giving a special charm for fans of the brand!
mini melissa Spider + Minnie #cutesy #classic #characters
Melissa ultragirl + minnie #bubbles #laces #perfectchildhood
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
indie star
SO call me maybe!
There is also a version with glitter! Perfect
Longtime partner, Dame Vivienne Westwood returns signing three styles for Melissa. The super
Melissa billy creepers #maxhit #punks #vibrantshades
for you to rock at music festivals in 2013 all over the world ;-)
chic Lady Dragon, with its saucy red lips is worthy of the red carpet. The irreverent Animal Toe represents the humor of the stylist in an accessible and smart design! And one more Mini Melissa! (see p.101)
Melissa moon dust #rain #glitter #lotsofmusic
maxi hit The style that emerged during the 2nd World War became fashionable among punks and Goths and invaded the pubs of London. With new renditions currently being featured on the main catwalks around the globe, Melissa Billy Creepers features vibrant shades and a flocked finish.
vivienne westwood anglomania + Melissa lady dragon #redcarpet #highheels #akissonthelips
UNDER THE SKIN Melissa Drama is an ankle boot with flowing neck that plays with asymmetry. The minimalist design plays with audacious sensuality, sometimes showing and sometimes hiding the side of the foot. The right
Melissa kristen #glam #divas #redcarpet
vivienne westwood anglomania + Melissa animal toe #littleanimals #british humor #irreverence
climate for suspense and mystery.
Melissa drama #luxury #minimalism #asymmetric
Melissa riding #wow #adventure #horsewoman
JUST FOR DIVAS The most famous platinum blonde of cinema inspires this high heel style. Bold as Marilyn, the bicolor shoe has a sporty waffle-like sole, to leave no
Urban Adventure
room for a misstep. The inspiration comes from the streets and the 1990s
Boldness meets elegance. The riding boot is one of
sportswear trend. In its glam version, the model is baptized as Melissa Kristen, in which the heel is metallic and dramatic.
the best bets in the collection, not only because of its
Melissa marilyn #boldness #high #superstar
sophisticated design, but also for its versatility. The long barrel of the boot is removable, transforming it into a utility model in a snap. Breathtaking!
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CineMelissa Inverno 2013
IT’S ALL ABOUT LOVE!!! Melissa trippy ii #optimism #hope #romance
Romance, one of the most inspiring genres of cinema, is all over this collection. Gentleness, sweetness and optimism set the tone of Melissa Trippy II, with its new mega-heart adornment. An incredible way for you to spread the love on the hottest days of the season!
Galeria Melissa + Lego
The creative union between Melissa and Lego (who last year celebrated their 80th anniversary) was inevitable and a perfect way to end the year. Lego was commissioned to create the façade for Galeria Melissa São Paulo to mark the end of the Rainbow collection – and what a success it was! Designed by Casa Darwin and built by Coala, it featured a huge sky with clouds and a rainbow staircase, all made with 700 thousand pieces of Lego! One of the highlights of the event was in December, when the brand invited the public to help create a 6 foot tall Lego Christmas tree. The project marked the first time the public could literally walk over one of the façade installations. Want to see how this all came to life? Watch a special video on our YouTube channel (youtube.com. br/melissachannel) and find the pot of gold at the end of that rainbow! ;-)
shine bright “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend”, sang Marilyn (see her iconic costumes on p. 46). Melissa Harmonic incorporates the seductive and multifaceted features of the stone, both as an adornment, as well as on the printed insole. Everything for you to walk like a millionaire!
Melissa harmonic iv #rich #summerdays #bestfriend
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Galeria Melissa NY celebrates its 1 year anniversary in great style!
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WIH A NEW EXHIBITION BY WALT CASSIDY, GALERIA MELISSA NEW YORK REAFFIRMS THE BRAND’S commitment TO ASSOCIATE ITS PRODUCTS TO CONTEMPORARY ARTISTs.
02
S
ince its opening in 2012, Galeria
created from brass and wood. Cassidy,
Melissa New York has show-
as a diarist, uses his sculptures as an
cased the talent of unique and
invocation of the varied symbolism he
multifaceted creators such as avaf
refers to as “protective motifs” – repeat-
and Julie Verhoven, who were able to
ed ideas, patterns, images and themes,
translate the brand’s contemporary and
which serve as the physical beddrock
pop approach to footwear design into
upon which he extricates himself from
daring and colorful artworks. To celebrate
his personal experience.
its first anniversary, the concept-store
A video played on the back wall of the
located in SoHo commissioned works
gallery showed parts of the documentary
from an artist closely linked to the city’s
“BOOB: The Live Performances”, an im-
identity, Walt Cassidy.
mersion into the NYC club scene of Walt’s
Formely known as Walt Paper, a key
partnership with Nathan Maxwell Cann.
New York party scene of the early 90s,
BOOB was a conceptual hardcore rock
Cassidy has become a key artist in the
band that began amidst the infamous
city’s thriving art scene. His work serves
1990s New York City club scene at the
as a personal alphabet – charting a
time of Peter Gatien, owner of nightclubs
private topography of history, experi-
Limelight, Tunnel, Palladium and Club
ence, emotion, and thought. Surveying
USA. Led by club kids Walt Paper, Desi
inner landscapes, rendered in a visual
Monster (Desi Santiago) and Loxanna
language both intimate and arcane, his
(John McGrath), BOOB consisted of Mr.
productions include ink drawings, wall
Johnson (Scott Johnson) playing the gui-
sculptures and photographs. They testify,
tar, Sonia Sonic (Sonia Manalili) on bass,
was featured as their mascot, “The BOOB Girl”. “BOOB -The Live Performances”
it sensibly – to make outer order from
includes archival performance foot-
inner chaos.
age from many of these NYC venues, clips which provide a glimpse into the
graphs, featuring flat constructions of cut
frequently referenced period of New York
paper. These narrative abstractions seek
City nightlife.
11 13
12
14
At the opening, which took place in
conceptually challenging the notion of
February 2013, a group of fashionistas
still life photography and illustration, on
joined the artist and the hosts in a lively
which much of his work is rooted.
night to celebrate not only the first anni-
new sculpture called “The Wishing Well”,
05
combined with interviews and press
are from Cassidy’s Paper series of photo-
The window of the gallery presented a
10
06 Interior of Galeria Melissa Walt Cassidy NY. 07 Jeiza Chiminazzo. 08 Walt Cassidy. 09 Sami Dussin and Lorenzo Martone. 10 Hakan Urfalioglu and Juliana Huxtable. 11 Claude Morais, Jeiza Chiminazzo, Ariela Suster and Brian Wolk. 12 Victor Corona, Jocelyn Saldanha. 13 Mischa G and Stella Rose. 14 Interior of Galeria Melissa.
drums. The burlesque performer *BOB*
urgent expressive imperative is to render
to narrow the photographic plane, while
08 09
and Mayumi (Mayumi Shimokawa) on
often the private one, and that our most
The pieces produced for the gallery
07
generation, compiled and edited in
club kid of Michael Alig’s outrage-as-art
03 with remarkable emotive force, that the most demanding affective experience is
04
joe schildhorn/bfanyc. com e Elle Jota/BFANYC.com
01
versary of Melissa’s American outpost, but also the excitement of the Big Apple.
01 Belen Briego and Bubi Canan. 02 April Palasthy and Astra Moragianis. 03 Nicholas Gorham and Dan Terry. 04 Julie Beynon and Fay Power. 05 Walt Cassidy and April Palasthy.
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CineMelissa Winter 2013
Melissa has more than 1 million
Since the end of 2012, melissa.com.br, which has about 5 million visitors a year, got a new look on the web! The renova-
Always looking for new ways to connect with their consumers, Melissa has been
tion was made on the entire structure
expanding increasingly its social networks. We attained the impressive figure of 1 million ‘likes’ on our Facebook page in 2012. We have also been uniting our fans with special hashtags like #melissadodia (Melissa of the day, in Portuguese) and #melissatrends. In addition to this Melissa also has and active following on YouTube, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram – giving all our “melisseiras” (an affectionate nickname given to the fans of the brand in Brazil) many ways to stay in contact with the brand and share their thoughts.
Our new look on the WEB! of the website, so that it would better meet the needs of the “melisseiras” and upgrade the interface to make it compatible with tablets, computers and mobile phones. Everything to make sure that Melissa is with you anywhere in the world! When checking the links, you’ll see that everything is more intuitive, light and providing a quicker access, separating the products by color, style, trends and collaborators in the smoothest possible way! Also: tips for your Melissa look of the day! We’re waiting for you! ;-)
Melissa fans get a new meeting point! CLUBE MELISSA has arrived in Brazil AND ALREADY HAS OVER 60 STORES in the COUNTRY. Besides selling all the styles in the collection, the stores will also have a cultural and art component as well as super special promotions.
Did you know there are
is responsible for the store
more than 60 Clube Melissa
design, which features interac-
stores throughout Brazil? The
tive touch panels.
project is another sales initia-
All your favorite designers
tive of the brand, featuring a
– such as Vivienne Westwood,
customized showcase of the
Jason Wu, the Campana Broth-
CineMelissa collection and
ers and Pedro Lourenço – are
others to come. This season,
already members! Now we
it features exclusive artwork
need you!!
by Robert McGinnis, creator of
One of Clube Melissa’s hits
some of the most iconic post-
is the Wish List, which makes
ers in film history (read more
it even easier to celebrate your
on p. 60).
birthday and receive the style
In addition to Galeria Melissa
you really wanted. It is as easy
São Paulo and New York, Clube
as this, visit one of the stores
Melissa stores are the newest
and select the model you
venues in the country to access
would like to have – then you
all the styles in the collection.
can give the person who is buy-
Besides offering an amazing
ing your present a card with all
retail experience with some
the information – and they can
excellent deals, Clube Melissa
purchase your gift – Yay!
is also a sensory experience
More then 60 new stores
with a strong artistic and
will open in 2013! Check out
cultural element. Renowned
the official website: clubeme-
Brazilian architect Bel Lobo
lissa.com :D
FOLLOW Melissa
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APP PLASTIC DREAMS Now you can download the latest edition of PLASTIC DREAMS on your Android. With all the editions available on the App Store, the magazine can be enjoyed anywhere you want with exclusive design and content. It’s distributed by Prdtrlnk, responsible for bringing some of the most important magazines from Brazil to the world of tablets! Enjoy!!!!
access melissa’s OFFICIAL WEBSITE! Download the QR code scan App on your smartphone. Place it close to the image and take a photograph. Melissa hopes you enjoy this content!
Pure cuteness!
It’s tea time for our little ballerinas. They show the graciousness of the Mini Melissa line, that now includes a super sweet Polibolha style.
creative director heidi taylor photography karin berndl make-up Lica Fensome @ Soho Management models Ruqayyah Daley @ Truly Scrumptuous, Lillie Shrouder @ Kids London, Elizabeth Poon @ Bruce & Brown and Kitti Dobbs
Due to print reproduction some styles may suffer color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available. go behind the scenes of this photo shoot and checkout the footbook on youtube/melissachannel
mini melissa polibolha Melissa XXXXXXX XXXXXX
mini melissa furadinha mini melissa campana zig zag mini melissa aranha + minnie
mini melissa aranha + minnie following page:
mini melissa ultragirl mini melissa ultragirl ii
vivienne westwood anglomania + mini melissa ultragirl
mini melissa ultragirl mini melissa polibolha vivienne westwood anglomania + mini melissa ultragirl mini melissa ultragirl ii
Leather corset and fishnet bustier Cadolle Fishnet gloves Muriel Fishnet tights Wolford Leather and spike necklace DĂŠmonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles CrĂŠzus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings vintage
Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld melissa incense + karl lagerfeld
The designer’s sketch for the style Melissa Melissima + Karl Lagerfeld