Plastic dreams n°9

Fashion’s biggest name, the German designer Karl Lagerfeld launches this season four styles created for MELISSA, photographs our cover and an exclusive editorial, becoming part of the brand’s history!!!

CineMelissa Plastic Dreams

★ A HISTORY OF CINEMA ★ THE ERA OF FASHION FILMS ★ ROMANTIC MOVIES ★ you in the director’s chair ★ THE GLAMOUR OF THE RED CARPET ★ bollywood OR Hollywood? ★ cinemelissa: become A STAR ★ the aesthetics of brazilian cinema

Melissa Magazine

Winter 2013

Cara Delevingne by Karl Lagerfeld

CINEMelISSA winter 2013

The designer’s sketch for the style Melissa Glam + Karl Lagerfeld

102, GREENE ST.

SOHO, NEW YORK

www.melissa.com.br

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Plastic Dreams

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

110 14 KARL’S SUPERWOMAN: CARA! Who better to introduce the partnership with Karl than fashion’s hottest model Cara Delevingne? 78 PIN-UP CULTURE Immerse yourself in a different era, with hits from the new CineMelissa collection 110 TOO CUTE to be true! It’s tea time for our little ballerinas as they present

Cinema

some of the brand’s most memorable products in the first Mini Melissa editorial.

32 Romance Cinema’s

Go behind the scenes

The reinvention of

gets inspiration from the

beloved genre and its

of the new collection

Brazilian cinema

CineMelissa collection

landmark moments

Holly, Nolly, Bolly

52

Young & beautiful

68

Karlisms Pearls of

94

Facts and Trivia

The leading countries

Girls that put their

wisdom from the

A cinema quiz to

in film production!

imagination in action!

influential designer

test your knowledge

Timeline An amazing

56

Women power

70

New era

96

Mondo Melissa

journey through the

Portraying facts with

Fashion films

The stars of the

history of cinema

an unique sensibility

are here to stay!

new collection

Glow The influence

58

The world on your feet

72

Inez & Vinoodh

106

72 Happy Birthday! Galeria

of the Red Carpet,

Karl Lagerfeld reveals

Duo defines fahion’s

Melissa NY celebrates its

fashion’s true catwalk

his cultural favorites

new moment

one year anniversary

C’est chic! Iconic

60

Icon The legendary

76

Be a movie director

109

70

62

36

still from the movie

92

52

Social Media Melissa

costumes that made

McGinnis in an interview

An iPhone and an idea

has over 1 million Likes

history on the screens

to PLASTIC DREAMS

are all you need!

on Facebook!!!

melanie ward

Attraction McGinnis

48 robert mcginnis

46

62

dr.macro.com

44

New aesthetics

courtesy of the distributor

40

48

vivi bacco

36

Lights, camera, action!

heir

32

46

courtesy maria andreeva

Winter 2013

karin berndl

karl lagerfeld

sandrine dulermo & michael labica

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Plastic Dreams

CineMelissa Winter 2013

editor’s letter Erika Palomino

CineMelissa 09

CineMelissa 09

Winter 2013

Creating Dreams

Editor-in-chief Erika Palomino Editor Duda Porto de Souza Contributing Editor Suzy Capó Associate Producer Vivi Bacco

ladies and gentlemen, here’s the 9th edition of Plastic Dreams

T

pedro ferraro

ART & DESIGN Graphic design Ana Starling (BIZU Design com Conteúdo) Art Director Andrea Crepaldi Aiub Designer Ana Marconato Art Coordinator Joana Brasileiro Digital retouching Vivi Bacco Revision Patrick Washburn

Cover

Now your new Melissa is the

how come Melissa

lens for you to view the world

had not yet used

and express yourself.

Drama, sci-fi, romance,

collection? After all, cinema,

suspense and comedy are film

just as Melissa, is all about

genres, and they are all repre-

fun and entertainment. It’s a

sented in the color palette of

way of expressing yourself and

the CineMelissa Winter 2013 col-

discovering other worlds, being

lection as well as in the moods

simultaneously local and uni-

of each style. And you can see

versal. With movies, we allow

all of them in the 9th edition of

ourselves to dream. From the

PLASTIC DREAMS, especially in

movie stars, we get inspiration.

the fashion shoot that evokes

Life imitates art, and the movies

the ultra-feminine style of the

reflect life.

Pin-Ups and in master Robert McGinnis’ amazing campaign

ated a real mythology, made

illustrations. Total glamour, in an

of stories shared by billions of

atmosphere of retro sensuality.

Alexandra Farah, Andrea Fulerton, André Barcinski, Anna Cofone, Cheryl Konteh, Duda Leite, Eduardo Jordão de Magalhães, Heidi Taylor, Ilana Rehavia, Jude Singleton, Karin Berndl, Kerry Eward, Lica Fensome, Marcio Madeira, Neil Stuart, Paul Marangos, Pedro Ferraro, Robert McGinnis, Sandrine Dulermo, Sergio Amaral, Suzy Capó, Terry Barber, Tom Ellis, Marina Pecoraro and Michael Labica.

people, recreations of reality

special thanks Caroline Lebar and Karl Lagerfeld team; Kyle Duke and to all @ Grendene – Melissa.

Reflections of mirrors with moving images at the legendary Cinecittà studios, in Rome.

This issue of PLASTIC DREAMS

that become credible through

also marks the debut of Me-

technology, each time the

lissa’s partnership with Paris

screen lights up. This idea is

based, German designer Karl

from the Russian revolutionary

Lagerfeld. It also illustrates

Trotsky, in the 1920’s, and it still

how cinema, the theme of the

applies these days.

current collection, is present in

Since the start of cinematog-

kn obe l

PLASTIC DREAMS IS AVAILABLE ON THE APP STORE AND ON THE ANDROID MARKET, AND ALSO ON FACEBOOK, INSTAGRAM, PINTEREST AND TWITTER @SIGAMELISSA. OFFICIAL VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE. COM/MELISSACHANNEL (more on Melissa’s social media on page 109)

seemed obvious:

contributors

ju liana

in this issue Agnelle agnelle.fr Andres Sarda andressarda.com Atsuko Kudo atsukokudo.com Balmain balmain.com Barbara Bui barbarabui.com Betony Vernon betonyvernon.com Bordelle bordelle.co.uk Cadolle cadolle.com Causse causse-gantier.fr Crézus crezus.fr Démonia demonia.com Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com Emanuel Ungaro ungaro.com Eres eresparis.com I.D Sarrierri sarrieri.com Jean Colonna jeancolonna.fr KARL LAGERFELD karl.com Maison Close maison-close.com Melissa melissa.com.br Mise en Cage misencage.com Miu Miu miumiu.com Muriel gants-muriel.fr Paco Rabanne pacorabanne.com Paul & Joe paulandjoe.com Paul Smith paulsmith.co.uk Philip Treacy philiptreacy.co.uk Phyléa couturecorset.net Piers Atkinson piersatkinson.com Roberto Cavalli robertocavalli.com Stephen Jones stephenjonesmillinery.com Top Shop topshop.com Varley varley.com Versace versace.com Wolford wolford.com

mind and a camera in hand”.

The cult of the movies cre-

VIVI BACCO

karl lagerfeld

karl lagerfeld

Cara Delevingne and MELISSA incense + karl lagerfeld Full story and credits on p.14.

famous by saying “An idea in

that it almost

cinema as the theme of a

Graphic production Sergio Leite Printed by Posigraf

Cara Delevingne wears Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld

he idea is so good

many facets of everyday culture

raphy, moving pictures have

and how the World of Melissa

always enchanted audiences.

is tapping into this trend. Here,

Today they are much more

the star is You! Fill your life

accessible through the new

with glamour and glitter with

digital formats, both in produc-

our new models, choose your

tion and distribution. In Brazil,

best outfits and transform every

director Glauber Rocha, leader

sidewalk in the world into a red

of the “Cinema Novo”, became

carpet! Action!

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Plastic Dreams

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Dream team check out the team of stars that came together to create one of the most exciting editions of plastic dreams magazine.

Neil STUART

Cheryl KONTEH

JUDE SINGLETON

The last few months have been very exciting for fashion director Neil Stuart. His assignments took him from high fashion to cool denim, from advertising to music. Neil’s been working with the new incarnation of pop trio Sugababes, now called Mutya Keisha Siobhan.

He’s also styled campaigns for jeans brand Superfine and new eveningwear designer Marina Qureshi. “It’s been a period of real extremes and I’m expecting exciting things for 2013”. Neil’s portfolio goes on and on and includes heavyweights such as magazines “Numéro” and “Vogue Italia”, brands Hugo Boss and Levi’s and music stars like Sting and Morcheeba. It’s not difficult to understand his appeal. While prioritizing prints and colours over passing trends, Neil creates enduring images that always manage to be current and timeless.

Favorite film: “Volver”, by Pedro Almodóvar.

English fashion editor Cheryl Konteh has been busy lately with some exciting projects, like working with actress Kate Winslet and contributing to the “Saturday Telegraph Magazine”. Her enviable list of cool jobs includes styling some of the world’s most glamorous stars, like Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Daniel Craig, Tilda Swinton and Jessica Chastain.

She can work her magic whether preparing her clients for magazine shoots, TV appearances or the most fabulous night of the year, the Oscars. Such talent has also captured the attention of top photographers and she’s collaborated with Ellen Von Unwerth, Patrick Demarchelier, Rankin and David Bailey. Dividing her time between London, New York and Los Angeles, Cheryl is always on the go, and loves it. “My life philosophy is work hard, play hard and pray hard”, she says.

Favorite film: “Casino”, by Martin Scorsese.

English set designer Jude Singleton trained as an artist but was seduced by the more regimented nature of creating sets for films and photo shoots. “As a designer, you are creating something within the parameters of the client’s vision, whereas as an artist, when there are no boundaries, it is hard to know when to start a project.” He discovered the profession when a neighbor, who was a film director, started offering him little bits of set work. His career took off from there and nowadays Jude works on shoots and films, for clients that range from the BBC to “Wallpaper*” magazine.

His rule of thumb for making a great set is to search for perfection and, of course, beauty. “As a general rule, if it is beautiful, then you can’t go wrong!” He proved his point with the brilliant touches brought to the pages of PLASTIC DREAMS, where his idea of “fantasy and Hollywood romance” included the unforgettable red Corvette.

Favorite film: “House of Flying Daggers”, by Zhang Yimou.

Karin BERNDL

Terry BARBER

Anna COFONE

Paul MARANGOS

Known for her amazing work with still life images, Austrian photographer Karin Berndl has been also turning her talents to photographing children. “They are so natural in front of the camera and a lot of the time give you special and unexpectedly beautiful moments which you could never plan for”, she tells us. Karin studied photography in Vienna and soon moved to London. In 2009, the Association of Photographers named her Photographer of the Year. Besides her work with kids, her recent jobs include the Christmas campaign for British department store John Lewis, some beauty shots for “Cent” magazine and a striking still life editorial for “Tatler Hong Kong”. Her inspirations include Disney animation films and old black and white movies, as well as paintings by artists such as Rembrandt and Hammershøi.

Her masculine, graphic style is perfectly balanced by the girlie vision of stylist Heidi Taylor, with whom she’s been working for almost ten years.

Favorite film: “Dancer in the Dark” or “The Third Man”, by Lars von Trier.

Make up artist Terry Barber is one of the most respected professionals in the industry. As MAC’s Director of Artistry, he has more than a helping hand in defining what will be hot in the coming seasons. So when he speaks, we take note. “For the future, I see products that get closer and closer to the textures of the real face, a more invisible transformation”, he reveals.

With a client base too long to list, Terry’s most memorable job recently was doing singer Grace Jone’s make up for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert, in London. “Getting her to the stage in a golf buggy with a huge headdress was probably the craziest, but most fabulous, moment in my career.”

Terry’s been working with make up since the 90s, a passion that started when, as a New Romantic, he was painting his own face to go to clubs. “A make up artist should be a storyteller, capturing some kind of spirit in their subject. You have to give beauty a soul.”

Favorite film: “All About Eve”,

by Joseph L. Mankiewicz.

British hair stylist Anna Cofone has always nurtured a creative side. With a background in performing arts, she used to sing in a jazz band. It was during her art studies that she first came across the wonderful universe of hair, especially theatre and period looks. The transition from front stage to behind the scenes seems to have been a smart decision. Since starting her apprenticeship in a salon, 13 years ago, Anna’s star has only risen. She was soon seduced by another side of hairdressing and decided her passion was out of the salon and in the pages of magazines. Nowadays, she works on high fashion shoots for cool magazines like “Numéro”, “Interview”, “Vogue” and, of course, PLASTIC DREAMS. And Anna has also returned somewhat back to her musical roots as hairstylist to Lana del Rey. She’s been working with the singer since her first album and is now preparing to embark on a European tour with her.

Favorite film: “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, by Blake Edwards.

Editor Paul Marangos is a wizard with composition and special effects. Since starting in the industry in his native South Africa, back in 1992, he has worked on giant projects such as the film “Hannibal” and music videos for the likes of Björk, Kylie Minogue, Madonna, Goldfrapp, Oasis and Radiohead. His job took him around the world, working in Johannesburg, New York and London. In the past six years, Paul’s been concentrating on high end commercials but finds himself more and more seduced by the universe of fashion and beauty. Whether working with moving images or stills, Paul’s talent for detail has him on high demand. “When I started, we used film and there was no Photoshop. It’s made me very visually literate over the years, as you had to plan very well ahead.”

It is this perfect eye that Paul is bringing to the PLASTIC DREAMS team, where he advises on the composition and positioning of our amazing photo shoots.

Favorite film: “2001: A Space Odyssey”, by Stanley Kubrick.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

suzy capó

Andrea FULERTON

Duda LEITE

André BARCINSKI

Marina PECORARO

Alexandra FARAH

Suzy Capó always wanted to be a dancer and studied to be a journalist. Attempting to unite the two she did her MA in Performance Studies at New York University. It was during this time she discovered a new passion: cinema. Her jump from the body to moving images happened when she worked as an assistant curator of dance at The Kitchen, an institution with one of the largest collections of video art in the USA. Her next step was becoming a guest curator of Mix New York, a cinema event that became the origin of the Mix Brasil Festival, which she’s the co-founder. Since then she has worked in various film festivals both in Brazil and abroad. Enthusiastic about fashion, cinema and Melissa, we could not have done this issue without having Suzy as our guest editor.

FAVORITE FILM: “Russian Ark”, by Aleksandr Sokurov.

Irish nail technician Andrea Fulerton took a roundabout path to her current career. After trying to follow in her family’s footsteps and run a pub, she dabbled in retail and even accounting. She was considering trying her luck as a flight attendant when her mum intervened. “She reminded me that I used to love painting nails as a child”. Nowadays, she divides her time between London and Chicago, where she lives with her American husband. Her long list of clients includes Sharon Stone, Kim Catrall, Cate Blanchett, Penelope Cruz, Britney Spears and Liza Minelli.

“I’ve always worked really fast and I’m known in the industry for my speed.” She also has her own line of nail products, Andrea Fulerton Nail Boutique. The nail technician flew to London especially for our shoot. “I love working with PLASTIC DREAMS as it’s such a great opportunity to be creative, go wild and think outside the box.”

Favorite film: “The Wizard of Oz”,

by Victor Fleming.

The journalist, curator and filmmaker Duda Leite was practically born to be a contributor of PLASTIC DREAMS. “I’ve always been fascinated by plastic objects, from Pink Flamingos to Little Buddhas. And I always like Melissa’s concept of creating useful objects with a bold design.” he adds.

His fascination with Pop Culture is evident in his films, whether in his short “Serial Clubber Killer”, inspired by the films of John Waters and Russ Meyer, or in his feature documentary “Tikimentary – In Search Of The Lost Paradise”, about the “Tiki” lifestyle.

His passion for music videos is also notorious and he logs many hours on the Internet. In this issue, Duda researched new applications for smart phones and high-end digital cameras for our readers that want to become filmmakers, both high and low-tech. favorite film: “The Trip”, by Roger Corman.

Journalist André Barcinski, who graduated from Universidade Federal Fluminense (UFF), writes about music, literature and cinema, and has a very successful career. At twenty-something he won the Jabuti award for his book “Barulho – Uma Viagem Pelo Underground do Rock Americano / Noise – a Journey through the American Underground Rock”.

Originally launched in Portuguese, it is one of the best books of its kind. Almost 10 years later, in 2001, he won an award at the Sundance Film Festival for his documentary “Maldito” about Coffin Joe, Brazil’s “cult” director José Mojica Marins.

Barcinski’s interests don’t stop there – he even ventured in the world of popular gastronomy, with his “Guia da Culinária Ogra / Guide to the Ogre Cuisine”. In PLASTIC DREAMS he tells the story of the three largest centers of film production in the world. Epic!

Favorite film: “Awakening of the Beast”, by José Mojica Marins.

If Marina Pecoraro were a film genre she would be a road movie. Not that she has traveled so many miles, but since she graduated in journalism from the Universidade Metodista in São Paulo, she has already mapped her craft: she wrote for websites, produced documentaries, edited publications, did field research – always in the areas of communication and health. She also has a taste for traveling, making conversation, and above all a fondness for the characters she meets on the road of life. For this reason, we invited Marina to profile for PLASTIC DREAMS 09 young talents in filmmaking who are attracting worldwide attention.

Favorite film: “My Blueberry Nights”, by Wong Kar Wai.

Fashion journalist Alexandra Farah has a lot in common with this issue of PLASTIC DREAMS. She is one of a handful of people in Brazil with a deep understanding of fashion and cinema – industries both based on glamour. Columnist at “Vogue Brasil” (she writes the Miss V section) and at Band News (Fashion and Business), Alexandra was also the curator of the (now extinct) Film Fashion Festival, which showed for the first time in Brazil the documentary “Lagerfeld Confidential” directed by Rodolphe Marconi about Karl Lagerfeld, Melissa’s new partner. So whom else could we have asked to write the article about the iconic costumes of cinema? From the sumptuous dresses that made history to looks that are still to come, Alexandra dives into Hollywood’s closet and talks about the clothes that we would love to wear in a fantasy world.

Favorite film: “Rear Window”, by Alfred Hitchcock.

WELCOME MR. KL!!!

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

As from March 2013, you’ll be able to choose from FOUR exclusive Melissa shoe styles designed

by Karl Lagerfeld, a man who has become an Icon in the fashion world like no other.

We are proud to announce Melissa’s newest partner.

“T

his is one of the most exciting

footwear, plus an elaborate selection of bags

products that many women will be very

collaborations that our company

and small leather goods.

happy to wear”.

has ever started” says Paulo Pedó,

general manager of Melissa.

We are thrilled about the launch of the

ested in the world around him, Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld brand in Brazil through

works with a variety of prestigious brands on

his collaboration with Melissa. He will

the 21st century, has widened his kingdom

high-profile projects. His collaborations have

produce mini-collections for four

by joining the world of Melissa. Lagerfeld’s

included St Dupont, HOGAN, Shu Uemura and

consecutive seasons.

great talent, synonymous with couture, will

for the first time with a Brazilian company,

be translated into a shoe line, expanding our

Melissa. His genius perspective has also won

consumer base and making his brand more

the world by means of campaigns he has

“Karl Lagerfeld, the most iconic designer of

accessible for all”, complements Pedó.

Besides creating for luxury brands such as Chanel and Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld has launched his own fashion house. Under his creative direction; the KARL LAGERFELD brand portfolio is rooted in Kreative, iconiK, Kool The designer`s sketch for the style Melissa Incense + Karl Lagerfeld

Creative to his core and passionately inter-

and accessible-luxe apparel and accessories.

The fashion house produces ready-to-wear for men and women, watches, eyewear,

You can check photographed.

Very satisfied with the collaboration, Pier out the first Paolo Righi, CEO of the KARL LAGERFELD collection in an brand, says “Melissa has been great in translating Karl’s inspirations exclusive editorial and designs in genuinely karl Lagerfeld shot for fun and fashionable PLASTIC DREAMS, featuring his young muse Cara Delevingne.

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Plastic Dreams

Q&A WITH KL

FACTS ABOUT KL Karl is a fan of photographer Helmut Newton.

Karl has a bookshop called 7L on the left bank of Paris.

Inspired by the Brazilian joie de vivre, Karl Lagerfeld, one of global fashion’s biggest icons, reveals his creative process when creating for Melissa and his enthusiasm for a country he knows little about. Brazil welcomes him with arms wide open!

Karl launched his own brand in 1984.

Karl directed actress Rachel Bilson in tHREE publicity films.

Photos Getty Images and karl.com

O

ne of the greatest designers

brand and for a country that he doesn’t

of our time, Karl Lagerfeld is

know very well. “I hope (the collection)

well-known in the fashion

has some freshness”, says the designer,

world as the master of

whose inspiration was the Brazilian joie

reinvention, having repeatedly

de vivre.

transformed himself as well as the labels

design clothes: with feeling. I express in my

his collaboration with Melissa even

design, but what is not analyzed is what

more exciting. Many questions were

I design. I am not a marketing person”,

raised around his creative process while

explains Karl Lagerfeld to PLASTIC DREAMS.

designing the four styles that will launch

Karl Lagerfeld’s success and influence are

the Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld collection

not only due to his amazing technical skills

in a partnership that will last for four

and working energy, but also to the fearless

consecutive seasons.

manner he faces new challenges and to his

living in Paris since he was fourteen, says

provocative personality.

When he accepted the invitation to take

he had total creative freedom to design

over the House of Chanel, in 1982, there

for the brand, having only to adapt

were many people who were skeptical

himself to small technical differences of

about the possibility of reviving a brand

producing in plastic. “I had never worked

whose elegance and dignity were over-

with plastic in this way before. It’s not

ruled by jeans and miniskirts in the 1960s.

the classic technique, I am used to work-

When Karl Lagerfeld showed, in the first five

ing with more traditional techniques

years as the label’s Creative Director, that

for Fendi, Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld

he could in fact bring the camellias back to

shoes”, reveals Karl Lagerfeld.

life, some critics thought that he was going

Yet another challenge was to create, for the first time, for a typically Brazilian

Karl illustrated an edition of the children’s classic “The Emperor’s New Clothes”.

“I design footwear the same way I

at his command. This naturally makes

The German designer who has been

Karl speaks many languages.

too far. What few could predict was that he would go much further.

On this page, right, from top to bottom: Karl in April 1979, when he designed for Chloé, and self-portraits with his unmistakable traits. Above, Karl in the 60s.

Opposite page, clockwise: Karl is photographed in a bistro in 1992, the designer in november 2013, shooting in NY for his men’s clothing line and his sketch for the model Melissa Ginga + Karl Lagerfeld.

Karl published “The Karl Lagerfeld Diet” after loosing 90 pounds.

Karl Lagerfeld is considered by “Vogue UK” as a barometer of the 21 century st

zeitgeist, an industry within himself. Those are not words picked to fill in pages, but parameters provided to the magazine readers of the designer’s relevance in the

other activities, demonstrating the same

contemporary world, transcending ideas of

excellence as a photographer, illustrator,

what fashion is about.

director, publisher, and even a diet guru!

Having conquered the catwalk for

Karl Lagerfeld told PLASTIC DREAMS

Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his own named

that the partnership with Melissa will

brand, and with successful partnerships

help him to get to know Brazil and its

with brands such as Shu Uemura and

industry better. Considering his ability to

now Melissa, the designer, who started

understand and transform the world in

as an assistant to Pierre Balmain after

which he lives in, it wouldn’t come as a

winning a design contest sponsored by the

surprise if the designer would eventually

International Wool Secretariat, also channels

reinvent the Samba runway or Carnaval

his inexhaustible creative energy into

in Bahia.

Karl supported the legalization of gay marriage in France by putting two brides together on the catwalk.

Karl owns more than 100 iPods.

Plastic Dreams

14

Karl’s superwoman:

Cara! phOTography KARL LAGERFELD fashion editor LEILA SMARA HAIR STYLIST SAM MC KNIGHT MAKE UP ARTIST EMMANUEL SAMMARTINO ASSISTANTS STYLIST SALOME BERNATAS AND MELANIE BOUGOIN

Due to print reproduction some styles may have color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available.

Who better to introduce the partnership with Karl than fashion’s hottest model Cara Delevingne?

Chosen and photographed by the fashion mogul himself exclusively for PLASTIC DREAMS, the result is Like the ice cream heel he created for MELISSA! Yummmm!!!!

CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Fishnet cashmere 15 sweater Jean Colonna Lace waspie Andres Sarda Lace and lycra corset skirt Cadolle Fishnet tights Wolford Leather mask Démonia Leather and spike necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld

Patent leather trench coatPlastic KarlDreams Lagerfeld Dress with elastic strap and harness Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather gloves Causse Fishnet tights Wolford Leather cuff in the hair Barbara Bui Leather and spike necklace DĂŠmonia

Melissa MELISSIMA + karl lagerfeld

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CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Fishnet and satin bra Wolford 17 Silk satin waspie Cadolle Glitter velvet high brief Cadolle Studded leather chocker necklace DĂŠmonia Fishnet tights Wolford

Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld

Leather and spike chokers Plastic Dreams necklaces Démonia

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld

18

CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Latex dress Phyléa Cotton and 19 satin bra Maison Close Leather headpiece Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather and spike chocker necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver Cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld

Plastic Dreams

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CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Vinyl short dress Phyléa 21 Vinyl jacket Karl Lagerfeld Leather and spike necklace Démonia Silver chocker necklace Betony Vernon Leather cuff in the hair Barbara Bui Fishnet tights Wolford Rings Vintage

Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld

Vinyl dress Démonia Patent leather gloves Agnelle Studded leather choker necklace Démonia Fishnet tights Wolford

Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld

Plastic Dreams

Latex dress Phyléa 22 Cotton and satin bra Maison Close Leather headpiece Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather and spike chocker necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver Cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage

Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld

CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Lace cropped top Cadolle 23 Vinyl corset Démonia Vinyl zipped skirt Phyléa Leather and spike necklace Démonia Silver chocker necklace Betony Vernon Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld

Silk jacket with leather Plastic Dreams collar Karl Lagerfeld Silk satin waspie Cadolle Fishnet and satin bra Wolford Lycra brief Eres Leather mittens with strass Karl Lagerfeld Studded leather chocker necklace Démonia Fishnet tights Wolford

Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld

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CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Leather strap 25 bra Démonia Strapeless lycra bra Wolford Leather harness Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Satin silk skirt Karl Lagerfeld Fishnet tights Wolford Leather cuff in the hair Barbara Bui Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon

Melissa incense + karl lagerfeld

Plastic Dreams

Latex trench coat Phyléa 26 Vinyl corset Démonia Lycra brief Eres Fishnet tights Wolford Silver chocker collar Betony Vernon Right hand: Metal and spike ring and bangles, Crézus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings vintage

Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld

CineMelissa Inverno 2013

Latex dress Phyléa Cotton and 27 satin bra Maison Close Leather headpiece Bordelle @ Mise en Cage Leather and spike chocker necklace Démonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles Crézus Left hand: Silver Cuff Betony Vernon Rings Vintage

Melissa glam + karl lagerfeld

Plastic Dreams

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Silk jacket with leather CineMelissa Inverno 2013 collar Karl Lagerfeld Leather mittens with strass Karl Lagerfeld Studded leather chocker necklace DĂŠmonia

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld

Leather corset and fishnet bustier Cadolle Fishnet gloves Muriel Leather and spike necklace DĂŠmonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles CrĂŠzus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings vintage

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld melissa incense + karl lagerfeld

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Plastic Dreams

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

The fun and wacky world of Cara Delevingne

By Ilana Rehavia, London Photos @caradelevingne

C

ara Delevingne is not only

online. There’s Cara dressed in a

the model of the moment

hotdog “onesie”, the one-piece

but also the one that seems

garment she loves and has

to best capture the essence of

helped transform into a huge

our times. Sure, the British model

trend. Then there’s Cara making

is known for her striking looks,

funny faces, and in wacky mon-

which include piercing blue eyes,

tages with jellybeans and cans

a body to die for and the stron-

and Santa Claus cartoons. “I feel

by surprise when it was her time

when I’m at home and can beat

gest eyebrows in the business.

like I’ve made it acceptable to be

to be in the spotlight. “It’s very

my drums really loud.”

That said, she is equally famous

weird”, she says.

weird for me, I don’t see myself as anyone famous and never

time has been a source of con-

wackiness of her personality.

considered myself a model. I

stant speculation, with her love

Cara’s career is serious business.

always considered models people

life under especially close scrutiny.

followers on Twitter and almost

Since she started modeling, fol-

like Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Kate

Rumours have linked the model

a million on Instagram. “My fol-

lowing in the footsteps of sister

(Moss) and Naomi (Campbell). I

with two of the world’s most cov-

lowers make me feel less lonely.

Poppy, she’s bagged some of the

don’t see myself as beautiful in

eted bachelors: Prince Harry and

I get messages from a lot of

most coveted jobs in the industry.

the way that they are.”

One Direction star Harry Styles.

young girls especially, who have

She’s the face of brands Burberry

issues and ask for my advice”,

and Chanel and, let’s not forget,

ideas about her future. She

she tells Plastic Dreams.

a member of the exclusive Victo-

wanted to be an astronaut. Or

ria’s Secret Angels club.

maybe a psychologist. Being a

more extreme fans of the

social media presence.

Cara has more than 380,000

The 20-year-old has that rare

On this page, Cara shares photos from her Instagram profile, with almost one million followers. On the following page, the model catwalks for Emilio Pucci (Summer 2013), in Milan; on a scene from the movie “Anna Karenina”; at a Black Tie Carnival Party in London; with Karl Lagerfeld at a charity dinner at Cannes Film Festival in 2012; with English actor Harry Treadaway ;-)

What she does in her spare

But don’t be fooled by the

for her powerful and unique

Growing up, Cara had other

Cara has said many times that they are both “good friends”.

That hasn’t stopped some

quality of being quite universal

Her long legs have walked

prime minister and winning the

teenager band “1D” sending her

in her appeal. Most boys would

the catwalks for Jason Wu, Oscar

Nobel Peace Prize were also in

a flurry of online abuse, which

probably like to date her. And lots

de la Renta, Dolce & Gabbana,

her plans. Today, she’s narrowed

even included death threats. She

of girls wouldn’t mind being her

Fendi and Stella McCartney. In

down her goals somewhat. The

brushes them off with her good

best friend. Cara’s someone who

one season alone, she starred

model’s dreams of being an

humour. “Some of them can be

looks like she doesn’t take herself

in no fewer than 39 of the

actress, after getting a taste for it

quite funny and creative about it.

too seriously and knows how to

world’s most important shows.

when she starred in the 2012 film

But the ‘die in a hole’ ones? Like,

have fun. The kind of girl that

The model graced the covers of

Anna Karenina, alongside Keira

whose nine-year-old daughter are

wouldn’t turn down a backpack-

magazines such as “Vogue UK”,

Knightley, Jude Law and Aaron

you?”, she said in an interview for

ing adventure or a big burger

“i-D”, “Jalouse” and “LOVE”.

Taylor-Johnson. “Some of the best

British magazine “Grazia”.

with chips. In fact, she revealed

And, in 2012, was named British

days of my life were spent on the

that she scoffed down McDon-

Model of the Year, a coveted title

film set”, she reveals.

ald’s and a pizza on the eve of

that has already belonged to Kate

her debut on the Victoria’s Secret

Moss, Stella Tennant, Lara Stone

catwalk, at a time when most

and Agyness Deyn. Not bad for

other models were trying to eat

a girl who, until recently, had

as little as possible to look good

never thought of being a model.

in those miniscule outfits.

Despite being used to hanging

Not afraid to be silly, she often

out with the cool and famous

posts hilarious pictures of herself

London crowd, she was taken

GETTY images | courtesy universal pictures

ELECTED MODEL OF THE YEAR BY “VOGUE UK”, PLASTIC DREAMS’ COVER GIRL IS NOT ONLY A PRETTY FACE, A great BODY AND FASHION’S MOST COMMENTED PAIR OF EYEBROWS. SHE INSPIRES MANY. AT AGE 20, THE MUSE HAS TAKEN PART IN the movie version of “ANNA KARENINA”, 2013 ACADEMY AWARD WINNER FOR BEST COSTUME. #welovecara

Cara also wants to make

Back to work matters, and Cara has enjoyed being clicked for Plastic Dreams, not least

music. When she’s not working,

because it gave her the chance

sleeping or attending the world’s

to work again with Karl Lagerfeld.

most fabulous parties, she can be

“I will always cherish working

found banging her set of drums.

with Karl”, she says. The shoes

“I’m obsessed with music and

were another big attraction for

can beat rhythms anywhere and

her. “I love them, they are so

with anything. But I really relax

comfortable and smell great.”

32

Plastic Dreams

33

CineMelissa Winter 2013

06 01

Lights, cameras and lots of action!

05

02 03

T

o begin the development of the theme, the Melissa research team went out

searching for references and inspiration. Always aiming to escape the obvious, we flew to Rome, in this moment where Italian cinema is enjoying a revival.

Rome, home to the masters like Fellini, Visconti, De Sica and Pasolini, and their great divas. “Rome is the largest film studio in the world”, said Fellini, at the launch

10

09

By Erika Palomino Photos Vivi Bacco

To research for the collection, the Melissa team visited film studios in Rome and India, including the largest museum in the world dedicated to the genre, in Turin, Italy. Embark on this journey with us and immerse yourself in the magic and glamour of cinema.

07

11

08

04

of his feature film with the same name as the Eternal City. “With

and literally scenic metropolis.

tin Scorsese. “Cinema became

who takes a few days off to

Madonna in a recent campaign

producing illusions as you and

this film, I wanted to address

To visit the Fontana di Trevi is

international and our vision of

live like a tourist alongside,

for Dolce & Gabbana revived

I have”, he said.

the idea that under the Rome of

to remember Anita Ekberg in

reality was expanded. Films

heartthrob of the time, Gary

scenes from the 1962 movie

today there is ancient Rome. I al-

the water fountain in “La Dolce

became the richest black and

Cooper. Strolling through some

“Mama Roma” directed by Paso-

another historic address: number

ways have that in mind and that

Vitta” (1960), with her famous

white imagery, of something we

of the city’s famous landmarks

lini, and starring Anna Magnani.

1055 Via Tuscolana, home to the

01 Early photographic lenses.

02 The famous chairs on the film sets. 03 The floor of the Italian studios. 04 Melissa DORIS. 05 Anita Ekberg gets

To check this, we headed to

12

is very exciting. Imagine being

strapless black dress and her

never saw.” In 2011, the Gucci

on a scooter, they immortalized

And even those who do not

so-called “Dream Factory”, as

in a traffic jam at the Coliseum!”

long blonde hair framing her

Foundation digitally restored the

places like staircase to Piazza di

enjoy flying, like director Woody

the legendary studio Cinecittà

explained the filmmaker famous

shoulders. The scene is so

masterpiece and sponsored a

Spagna, the Roman Forum and

Allen, let himself be taken in by

has become known. It was a spe-

for his eccentric types and movies

famous that every day and night

screening of the film for VIPs of

the Mouth of Truth (La Bocca

the charms of Rome with his “To

cial event, because we had the

Italian studios are in full swing.

with surreal tones.

there are policemen stationed

the movie and fashion industry,

della Verità). Some people go to

Rome With Love” (2012).

opportunity to visit the exhibition

Crossing the mythical façade, that

there to prevent excited tourists

proving its importance.

Rome exclusively to retrace the

“Rome is a city of illusions,”

“Cinecittà Shows Off”, celebrating

features a reproduction of the

said the American writer Gore

the 150th anniversary of the Ital-

head of Fellini’s “Casanova”, it is

Vidal. “Not by chance there is

ian Unification and also the 75th

easy to imagine the real charac-

In fact, the corners, city squares and fountains create a curious mix of the legacy of the

from repeating the iconic scene.

Everything changed after

It was also in Rome the eternal “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”

film’s tour.

The strength of Italian women

Roman Empire with the daily life

“La Dolce Vita”, according to

Audrey Hepburn filmed “Roman

portrayed in that golden period

the church, the politics and the

anniversary of the studio. Unlike

ters tracing the same path, in sets

of an urban, romantic, unique

another important director, Mar-

Holiday”, a noble young princess

continues to inspire fashion today.

cinema. Each of these worlds

the Brazilian studio Vera Cruz, the

like Theatre 5 (the largest studio

in the water in “La Dolce Vita” at the “Fontana di Trevi”, in Rome. 06 Plaque of Fellini’s Largo, in Rome.

07 Entrance of legendary “Teatro 5” in Cinecittà.

08 Façade of Cinecittà, at Via Tuscolana. 09 The Coliseum at sunset. 10 Piazza di Spagna, at the heart of Rome. 11 Dolce & Gabbana’s campaign based on the movie “Mamma Roma”,

by Pier Paolo Pasolini.

12 Melissa MARILYN.

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Plastic Dreams

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

22

24

13 23

15

in Europe, 2.873.04 square me-

16

ters and 15 meters high, it was a

19

favorite of Fellini and where his body was veiled, in 1993). And not only movies of the past were

22 Hong Kong’s iconic skyline view, at Victoria Bay. 23 Nocturnal scenes of Hong Kong.

24 Scene from the film “2046”,

by Wong Kar Wai. 25 MElissa Billy Creepers.

14

filmed there, current productions like “Gangs of New York” (2000;

memorabilia, costumes, masks,

the sets remains intact), the HBO

scripts, photographs, sketches,

TV series “Rome” (2004) and Wes

models and everything else you

Anderson’s “The Life Acquatic

can imagine, including the first

with Steve Zissou” (2003) were

cape of Superman, the original

all filmed there. In the 1950’s

mask of Darth Vader, a bra from

and 1960’s, everybody filmed

Marilyn Monroe and, our favorite:

in Cinecittà and launched their

the cast of the head of the idol

films in Rome. The glamorous

of Casanova, created by designer

premieres at the Grand Hotel

Giantito Burchiellaro. A true

were a must. And did you know

immersion, very inspiring, that

the term “paparazzi” came from

covers from the earliest shadow

that time?

theaters and the first magic

To search the genealogy of

lanterns to the special effects of

cinema, the second stop of the

today (that’s where we found the

Melissa staff was the National

quote from Trotsky).

Museum of Cinema in Turin,

The space is also one of the ar-

still in Italy, one of the most

chitectural landmarks of Turin and

important in the world dedicated

its panoramic lift leads to a terrace

to the Seventh Art. It is located

of 85 meters, where you can see

inside the Mole Antonelliana,

the whole city up to the Alps.

a temple created in 1863 by

13 Film poster of the Lumière Brothers.

14 The head of Fellini’s idol, “Casanova”.

15 Film posters at the thematic Bar at the Museo Nazionale Del Cinema, in Turin.

16 Scene from “The Shining” by Stanley Kubrick, whose retrospective exhibition will open in October at the Museu da Imagem e do Som, in São Paulo.

17 Extract from the screenplay “Psycho”

by Alfred Hitchcock.

18 Object from the original Frankenstein.

19 Original cape from the first Superman movie. 20 Indian Film Poster at Film City, in Mumbai.

21 Backstage of one of the 300 studios in Bollywood, India.

25

17

20

300 studios located in an area

Whisky”, the promo song for the

outside of the city center.

film “Vicky Honor”, starring John

The local production began

Abrahim, the upcoming actor Ay-

there in 1915, as a response to

ushmann Khurrana and the very

the British cultural domain in

energetic director Shoojit Sircar.

the country. The first film in color

sophisticated aesthetic. Pure modernism.

dates from 1950 and in 1970s

more surreal than the scene,

the term “Bollywood” was in-

complete with pyrotechnics and

mentioned yet Lou Ye or Zhang

vented, to define the Hollywood

even extras dressed as fetishistic

Yimou. And what about 2013

of Bombay (or Mumbai). And

nurses (the romantic comedy

Academy Award Winning Direc-

if there is a world where colors

revolves around the issue of

tor Ang Lee, who was born in

make all the difference, that

sperm donation!). The dances,

Taiwan, and enchanted the world

place is Bollywood. To mention

created by award-winning cho-

with his film “Crouching Tiger,

that its aesthetic flirts with kitsch

reographer Bosco, needless to

Hidden Dragon”, making martial

would be almost superfluous.

say, make Psy’s choreographies

arts films cool again?

As with everything in India, the

look very simple!

shades are intense, with lot’s

Cut. We took a plane to Mum-

The heat was perhaps even

Cut. We leave for Hong Kong,

And we haven’t even

And if the movies serve as a reflection of the times around

architect Alessandro Antonelli

bai, India. Besides us, millions

of gold, and the discrepancies

because some of today’s most

us, portraying different periods,

to be a synagogue. In 2000 it

of Indians go there every day,

between the rich and the poor

relevant cinematography comes

these same time periods are

was transformed in the world’s

searching not only for fame, but

are huge. We went from the high

from the Orient, mainly from

expressed in the different moods

tallest museum, with its famous

also for money in an attempt to

to the low, visiting a rickety and

China and Hong Kong.

and styles of the CineMelissa

25 meter high dome.

enter the “gates of hope” of the

dusty studio, and then the very

so-called “Film City” in Bollywood,

structured SJ Studio, and another

of director Wong Kar-wai, from

the magic and embark with us to

of sensory and even acoustic

if only to make a small cameo in

set where we witnessed with

“2046” and “In The Mood For

this world that, just like Melissa,

experiences, displaying posters,

one of the productions of the over

exclusivity the shoot of “Rum &

Love”, with it’s dark colors and

is always evolving.

The building houses six floors

18

21

We were inspired by the work

collection. Immerse yourself in

Plastic Dreams

36

CineMelissa Winter 2013

Holly, Nolly, Bolly Hollywood is the mecca of cinema, we already know. However, the biggest movie producer of the global market is not the United States, but India. In turn, Nigeria, in the african continent, is the fastest growing film industry in the world.

Find out the differences between the three.

By André Barcinski Illustration Heir

Q

uick question: which film industry with a

Hollywood, Bollywood and Nollywood. The names

name ending in “wood” produces most

sound very much alike, but the movies, the industry and

movies per year? Hollywood, right? Wrong!

the way of making them couldn’t be more different.

The biggest producer of movies in the world is

Bollywood, in India. Around 1,100 movies are produced there every year.

So, that means the second biggest producer is Hollywood, right?

Wrong again! The second biggest film producer in

Hollywood is a district in Los Angeles, California, USA. The place started attracting film producers at the beginning of the 20th century, due to its perfect weather. This was very different from the freezing winters of New York, where the early studios were located.

There was another advantage: the land in California

the world is Nollywood. That’s how the Nigeria film

was huge, cheap and unexplored. From 1910, many

industry became known. They produce around 1,000

producers moved there.

movies per year.

Hollywood comes in the third place, producing an

The first studio built in the Los Angeles area was the Selig Polyscope, in 1909-1910. And the first film shot

average of 650 movies per year. On the other hand, it is

in Hollywood was a short film of 17 minutes called

the most lucrative movie industry in the world, with rev-

“Old California”, directed in 1910 by renowned D.W.

enue of around US$11 billion per year, while Bollywood’s

Griffith, one of the biggest names from the early days

revenue is US$3 billion and Nollywood’s US$250 million.

of cinema.

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Plastic Dreams

Another genius of the early years of cinema, Cecil

many people think it means the total Indian film

B. De Mille, shot in 1914, along with Oscar Apfel, the

industry, when in fact it only refers to films produced

first feature film in Hollywood, “The Squaw Man”.

in the Bombay region.

The exodus of producers and studios to California

Bollywood movies are mostly musical-melodramas,

was so intense that in 1915 the Los Angeles region

romantic stories of impossible love and happy

had already surpassed New York as the largest

endings, made for audiences to cry and laugh.

center of film production in the United States.

No Bollywood film is complete without several

The word “Hollywood” became virtually syn-

Broadway-style musical numbers, filled with festive

onymous with American cinema. And its greatest

music and complex choreographies. The films are

symbol is the huge Hollywood sign, located in the

often very colorful, mostly in flashy tones.

Santa Monica Mountains. The sign measures 110

Until the 1970’s, Bollywood movies were produced

meters long by 11 meters high and was built origi-

for the domestic market and showed only in Indian

nally to advertise a real estate project, but ended

cinemas. They soon began to be exported all over the

up staying and became an icon of the power of the

world and shown in countries with Indian communities.

film industry.

Bollywood is not a place but the name given to

That helped making the films known around the planet and eventually influenced even Hollywood

the film industry based in Bombay (or Mumbai),

movies, especially musical films recently released by

India. Curiously, the name was adapted from “Tolly-

American studios. These would include “Chicago,”

wood”, the name of a movie production center rival

“Rent,” “Phantom of the Opera”, “Mamma Mia” and

to Bombay, Tollygunge, based in Calcutta, which

“Moulin Rouge”, whose director, Baz Luhrman, gave

dominated Indian cinema in the 1930’s and 1940’s.

interviews saying he had been directly influenced by

The term Bollywood emerged in the 1970s, when India overtook the United States in number of films produced annually. The name stuck so much that

“Bollywoodian” musicals.

Finally, we arrive in Nollywood, one of the most amazing stories of cinema. It is also not a place, but

39

CineMelissa Winter 2013

Nollywood, one of the most amazing stories of cinema. It is also not a place, but the nickname given to the fastest growing film industry in the world: Nigeria.

the nickname given to the fastest growing film industry in the world: Nigeria.

Without movie theaters to show their films, Nigerian directors and producers work really fast and cheap, and target only the DVD market.

A Nollywood film costs, on average, a mere U$15,000 and sells 50 thousand DVDs, ensuring gigantic profit margins.

To cheapen the production, movies are shot on the street or in locations such as hotels and restaurants, and sometimes even in the producer’s homes. The stories range from romance to thrillers. Religious stories are also very popular.

The Nigerian population is so fond of the local films that the number of DVD sales of local production exceeds that of Hollywood “blockbusters”. The next step, according to the producers, is bringing the films to other countries in Africa.

Hollywood, Bollywood, Nollywood: three countries, three continents, three different ways of producing movies.

André Barcinski is a movie critic from “Folha de S. Paulo”

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

time machine

Embark on an amazing journey through cinema’s fascinating history, conducted by a team of lovers of this unique form of telling stories, inventing dreams and turning them into reality!

1895

1914

1935

1948

Charles Chaplin appears for

With the release of “Becky

MGM revitalizes the musical genre

In Paris, the Lumière Brothers,

the first time as The Tramp in

Sharp”, by Rouben Mamoulian,

with a series of movies that would

organize a presentation using the

the comedy “Kid Auto Races at

American audiences discover

soon become classics. In “Easter

cinématographe. The image of a

Venice”.

the vivid colors of Technicolor.

Parade”, Judy Garland stars with

in his 2011 movie “Hugo” – causes a commotion among the 30 people that were present.

1898 From a ship, Afonso Segreto films the arrival at Guanabara Bay. It’s the first footage produced in Brazil.

1902

1915

“The Birth of a Nation”. It’s the

Alô, Carnaval”, one of the first

first time a director uses close

“chanchadas” (a Brazilian genre

ups, flashbacks and other nar-

that mixes comedy and musical)

rative devices in order to tell a story. These devices are still used in narrative movies today.

1925

In the USSR, Sergei Eisenstein directs “Battleship Potemkin”,

special effects”, French illusionist

and is considered the “father of

George Méliès takes the

movie montage”.

audience to space for the first time, in the first science fiction

1927

film ever produced, “A Trip to

Al Jolson, a Vaudeville icon,

the Moon”.

surprises the audiences in

The success of “The Great Train Robbery” by Edwin S. Porter, established the motion pictures industry in the USA and confirmed Westerns as the quintessential American cinematographic genre.

1906 Ole Olsen founds Nordisk Film, in Denmark, transforming it into the most important film-producing country in Northern Europe.

Carmen Miranda stars in “Alô,

D.W. Griffith presents his epic

Considered “the father of

1903

1936

“The Jazz Singer”, the first full-length talking movie.

1928

Written by Salvador Dali and directed by Luis Buñuel, “Un Chien Andalou / An Andalusian Dog”, shocks audiences during the European premieres.

This film is considered an icon of Surrealist Cinema.

1931

In “Dracula”, Hungarian actor

1911

Béla Lugosi portrays for the first

Photoplay, the first American

is associated with Bram Stoker’s

film fan magazine, is founded.

character until today.

time Count Dracula, creating gestures and a way of speaking that

produced by Cinédia, the first Brazilian film studio.

1937

“Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs”, the first full-feature

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Martin Scorsese would re-create

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train reaching the station – that

one of the greatest dancers of all time, Fred Astaire.

1953

Fox presents “The Robe”, the first movie shot on Cinemascope. The new format produces an image almost twice as big as the format used until then.

1954

Japanese director Akira Kuro-

animation by Walt Disney,

sawa, one of the main figures of

is released in theaters and

the golden age of Asian cinema,

becomes an instant classic.

presents “Seven Samurai”. The

1939

movie influenced many genera-

“Gone With The Wind”, based on the novel by Margaret Mitch-

1955

ell, is adapted for the big screen.

“Pather Panchali”, the first film of

The movie becomes one of the

the “Apu Trilogy” by Indian director

most lucrative films in history.

Satyajit Ray, is released. India’s

1941

Orson Welles makes a revolution in Hollywood with “Citizen Kane”. Critics consider the film as one of the best movies of all time.

tions of moviemakers.

movie industry would grow to become bigger than Hollywood by the 1970’s.

1959 Shot in four weeks with a very low

1946

budget, “Breathless”, by Jean-

With “Roma, Open City”, a

1960

landmark of the Italian “Neo Realism”, Roberto Rossellini portrays the confusion of the

Luc Godard, becomes the symbol of the French movement known as “Nouvelle Vague”.

Alfred Hitchcock terrorizes his

post-war period in Europe and

audience with “Psycho”, one of

creates an alternative for the

the most memorable suspense

Hollywood way of making films.

thrillers from all time.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Plastic Dreams

1973

1986

2000

Henry Mancini wins two Oscars

“Enter the Dragon” is released

The Argentinian political drama

Warner Bros announces Daniel

and four Grammy’s for the

in the West right after the prema-

“The Official Story” by Luis

Radcliffe as the main character of

soundtrack of “Breakfast at

ture death of its main actor Bruce

Puenzo becomes the first Latin

“Harry Potter and The Sorcerer’s

Tiffany’s”, which includes the

Lee. Martial Arts movies become

American movie to win an Oscar

Stone”, the first film of the series

hit “Moon River”.

a sensation worldwide and Lee

for Best Foreign Movie.

based on J. K. Rowling’s books.

1962

becomes a pop culture icon.

1990

Young, Sean Connery perso-

1976

“Dona Flor and her Two Hus-

nifies secret agent 007, James

bands”, based on Jorge Amado’s

Bond, in the first film of this

romance and directed by Bruno

successful British franchise.

Barreto is released in Brazil and

1964

becomes one of the biggest box office hits of Brazilian cinema.

Sergio Leone’s “A Fistful of Dol-

1977

lars”, starring Clint Eastwood,

“Star Wars” hits theaters for the

is a hit. The genre known as

first time and becomes a pop

“Spaghetti Western”, would be-

culture mania. The film is the first

come very popular in the 1960’s.

of the “Blockbuster Era”.

1965 “The Sound of Music” is one

1980

of the most successful movies

Pedro Almodóvar directs his

of the year. The true story of

first movie “Pepi, Luci, Bom

the Von Trapp family would

and Other Girls Like Mom” and

become one of the most

becomes a symbol of the Cultural

popular musicals of all time.

Revolution of Spanish Democracy.

1969 Influential Brazilian filmmaker

1982

With “ET – the Extra-Terrestrial”,

Glauber Rocha, leader of the

Steven Spielberg becomes one

Cinema Novo movement, wins

of the most popular and influen-

the Best Director award at the

tial directors of movie history.

Cannes Film Festival for “Anto-

1983

nio das Mortes”.

1970

In Hong Kong, Jackie Chan reinvents the action movie genre with “Project A”, performing

“Midnight Cowboy” by John

elaborate action scenes without

Schlesinger becomes the first

stunts or special effects.

X-rated movie to win the Best

1985

Film award at the Oscars.

1972

Studio Ghibli opens in Japan. Its

The first of a series of disaster

acclaimed animes, a Japanese

movies, “The Poseidon

style of animation, were greatly

Adventure” brings millions of

responsible for the revitalization of

people to the theaters.

the country’s cinema in the 1980’s.

The romantic comedy makes a sexy comeback in Hollywood.

Due to the huge success of “Pretty Woman”, Julia Roberts becomes a star and the highest paid actress in the business.

1992

The commercial success of movies like “Reservoir Dogs” by Quentin Tarantino gets the attention of the big studios. They decide to create their own “Independent” production companies to finance more auteurist projects.

1995 Danish filmmakers Lars Von shutterstock.com | DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy fox home entertainment, universal home video, warner home video, continental, versátil home video, magnus opus, fox filmes, globo vídeo, paramount home, vintage films, videofilmes, imagem filmes

In “Dr. No”, directed by Terence

shutterstock.com | DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy fox home entertainment, universal home video, warner home video, continental, versátil home video, magnus opus, fox filmes, globo vídeo, paramount home, vintage films, videofilmes, imagem filmes

1961

Trier and Thomas Vinterberg publish the Dogma 95 manifesto, which rejects the cin-

2004

“City of God” by Brazilian director Fernando Meirelles is nominated for Academy Awards in four categories: Director, Adapted Screenplay, Editing, and Cinematography.

2005

Documentaries become a commercial genre with “March of the Penguins” by French director Luc Jacquet.

2006 Disney buys Pixar Animation Studios, creator of box office hits such as “Toy Story”, “Monsters Inc.” and “Finding Nemo”.

2009

Released in December, “Avatar”

ematographic conventions of its

by James Cameron breaks all

time, according to them “based

box offices records and becomes

on special effects and the latest

responsible for the resurgence

technological inventions”.

of 3D movies.

1997 “Titanic” arrives on the big

2011

“Tango with Me” by Mahmood

screens all over the world. With

Ali-Balogun is Nigeria’s most

a budget of 250 million dol-

lucrative movie of the year. With

lars, including production and

1,000 titles per year, the African

marketing costs, is the most

country is the second biggest

expensive film of all time.

producer of films in the world.

1999

2013 Among sequels, remakes, and

Made with a budget of only 30

franchises that will hit the theat-

thousand dollars, “The Blair

ers, the most awaited film is

Witch Project” makes more

“Man of Steel”. The movie brings

then 125 million at the box of-

back to the big screen DC Comics

fices, and becomes a cult classic.

greatest super hero, Superman.

44

Plastic Dreams

magic carpet

Right, Tilda Swinton wears Haider Ackermann at the 2012 Golden Globe Awards; following, Anna Hathaway wears Prada on the night she won the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress for her role in “Les Misérables” (2013); Cate Blanchett, another muse of the red carpet, shows the back of her Givenchy couture dress (2011); Imogen Heap wears Melissa Ultragirl + J.Maskrey and Hayley Williams wears Melissa Vivienne Westwood Three Straps Elevated, both at the 2010 Grammy Awards.

A catwalk for celebrities, luxurious clothes and jewelry, the “Red Carpets” produce moments that are even more fun than the movies and the award shows themselves. who are you wearing today?

By Sergio Amaral

Y

ear after year, the scene is

Before them, Björk, at the 2001 Oscars, caused

Take the Oscars, for example, whose TV

repeated in a continual loop,

audience surpasses 39 million viewers in the

a commotion with a fancy white swan dress by

with celebrities landing on the

U.S. alone. There is no right recipe for success,

Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski; J.Lo also shone

red carpet, smiling for zillions

because it also depends on the competition.

at the 2000 Grammys Awards looking like a high-

of flashbulbs and photos that

But the resources at your disposal, considering

class “periguete”*, wearing an extremely sexy …and

will find their way to millions of blogs,

how much of an A-lister you are at the moment,

revealing tropical print Versace dress.

social networks, newspaper and magazine

are limitless. Stunningly expensive clothes?

Some other great moments from the red carpet include

pages, informing us what is chic and

Check. Ultra impressive jewelry? Check. Special

Sarah Jessica Parker in McQueen at the 2006 Costume

elegant, who did it right and shone and

treatments, products and beauty professionals at

Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum in New York,

your disposal? Check. Whatever you’d like, the sky

as well as Nicole Kidman – the always-gorgeous diva of

is the limit! It sounds like a dream, but that really

the red carpet – at the 2007 Oscars, in a red Balenciaga.

happens in Hollywood.

And what about Tilda Swinton? What a vision! Super

who was a total disaster. It could even be considered futile. But it’s not.

Think of a special evening in your life, your graduation party for example. Besides having fun it’s also important to shine and be the star.

This can mean different things

modern and always very elegant, wearing Lanvin at

Much better than the predictable bad jokes of the ceremonies, the red carpets have generated

the 2009 Oscars, and more recently wearing Haider

memorable and historic moments since the

Ackermann at this year’s Golden Globes in January.

Other hits: Cate Blanchet, dressed in an architectural

beginning. A curiosity: the earliest record of a red carpet in history was at the Greek tragedy

and Oriental inspired Givenchy Couture, at the 2011

the most beautiful, the sexiest

“Agamemnon”, a play from Aeschylus, written

Oscars; Charlize Theron in a light blue Dior in 2005;

and the most fun, or perhaps

sometime in antiquity, about 500 years before

and Gisele, at the same ceremony, in white Dior

Christ. In the story, Agamemnon returns victorious

(attention to the bonus!) with Leonardo DiCaprio at

from the Trojan War, and in recognition of his

her side; not to mention Julia Roberts, stunning in

heroism and his success is greeted with a purple

Valentino, at the 2001 Oscars.

At the Oscars, or the Grammys, or the Golden Globes, or any red carpet in the world, it is very similar to that. Only 1 billion times bigger!

Angelina Jolie wears Versace couture at the 2012 Academy Awards; the dress revealed her form and inspired the world.

Going back in time, it’s still worth mentioning a

carpet extended at his feet, something that at that

fashion moment from decades ago, at the 1954 Oscars,

time was solely dedicated to the deities.

with “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” Audrey Hepburn in a simple

Returning to the red carpets, as we know today, but still talking about mythological beings, there

white floral pattern dress by Givenchy. Audrey took

are several moments that mark recent memory,

home the Oscar for Best Actress for her performance in

starting with last year’s Oscar ceremony, when

“Roman Holiday” and also went down in history as one

Angelina Jolie, wearing a black dress by Atelier

of the strongest looks ever on the red carpet!

Valentino, Versace, Givenchy, Chanel, Dior, Lanvin,

Versace, posed for pictures with her leg exposed, in a daring pose (somewhat strange, it’s true),

Balenciaga… The most desirable brands in the world

causing a rebound in the entire cosmos.

have already walked by the red carpets. And Melissa too! At the Grammys, didn’t you know?

So who are the biggest shakers? Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj always cause a commotion when they hit the red carpets. Two very dramatic queens, inside a cocoon or wearing a dress made of stuffed animals, they never go unnoticed.

gettyimages.com

to be with the cutest boy.

gettyimages.com

to different girls: maybe to be

45

CineMelissa Winter 2013

* “periguete” is a typical look from of a Brazilian girl who mixes a lot of different fashion styles, always looking super sexy.

05

46

Movies & fashion: a perfect marriage From the movie screens to the streets or from the streets to the movie screens, Join us as we review the history of cinema and fashion, two industries united in creating dreams with reality.

47

CineMelissa Winter 2013

DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy universal pictures, paramount pictures and warner bros.

Plastic Dreams

before the movie, guys used to follow the Mod aesthetic,

By Alexandra Farah

with extremely thin ties from the 1960s.

I

Lauren was so successful that, n the last two decades the

dance”, became an obsession,

wood’s greatest designers of all

“Anna Karenina”, which won the

from that moment on, he built

relationship between fashion

as well as her “poodle-like”

time, Adrian, for Joan Crawford’s

Oscar in the same year for Best

his fame and created a fashion

and film has become very

hairstyle. Alex, her character’s

character in the movie “Letty

Costume Design.

empire. The most awaited fashion

trendy. But this relationship

name, worked in a steel mill

Lynton”. This dress sold 50 thou-

started long ago. Since the

and spent her lunchtime reading

sand copies at Macy’s in 1932,

numerous fashion hits. The

Great Gatsby”, this time with

beginning of the last century,

French “Vogue”! She was such a

the year of the movie’s release.

exhibition “Hollywood Costume”

Leonardo DiCaprio in the starring

movies have used fashion to

“hottie” that she ended up win-

add glamour and update their

ning her handsome bosses heart

dresses that appear on the big

Victoria and Albert Museum in

look. Fashion, on the other

and became a true ballerina.

screen became an absolute suc-

London, brought together the

cess and remains popular until

100 best costumes of all time.

hand, uses movies to showcase

Besides telling a good story,

This formula of copying

movies have always had the

today. Especially with the strong

The exhibit was curated by three

worldwide attention.

function of expressing style and

influence of the red carpet

specialists in costume design,

creating dreams for their fans.

phenomena, which generates

and included Dorothy’s look

TV, movie magazines were filled

Since the 1920s film studios

lots of media attention. These

from “The Wizard of Oz” and

with the latest creations from

have used the looks of their

days, for instance, the Oscar

Jack Sparrow’s look for “Pirates

Parisian designers. Pictures of

stars as part of their marketing

ceremony can be considered

of the Caribbean”.

Hollywood divas walking the red

campaigns. And they were very

“the biggest fashion show of the

As far as classic costumes

carpets at the award ceremonies

clever at making profits. In the

year”. Ten years ago, the yellow

goes, it is impossible to forget

were a great way to showcase

first decades of the last century,

dress used by Kate Hudson in

the white pleated dress that

fashion everywhere on the plan-

each movie theatre had its own

the movie “How to Loose a Guy

Marilyn Monroe used in “The

et. Each diva represented their

shop. They were called “cine-

in 10 Days” was the most copied

Seven Year Itch”, or the strapless

own film and their own style.

shops”, with all different kinds of

gown by specialized “party

pink silk dress from “Gentleman

merchandise for sale; basically

dress” stores in New York City.

Prefer Blondes”, both movies

Just think, for example, about the revolution caused by the

everything that was featured in

very short haircut with bangs

the movies they were showing.

of one of the first “it girls” of

Gradually this concept

In 2012, boys were obsessed with a jacket stamped with a

role and Carey Mulligan as his

which closed recently at the

their latest creations and get Long before the invention of

film of 2013 is once again “The

The movies have produced

from the 1950s.

Still in the realm of classics,

scorpion on the back, ex-

in 1974 designer Ralph Lauren

Above, clockwise: Joan Crawford in “Letty Lynton”; scene from the remake of “The Great Gatsby”; Keira Knightley looks smashing in burgundy in a scene from “Anna Karenina”; Jennifer Beals and her iconic sweatshirt top in “Flashdance”; Kate Hudson’s yellow dress, one of the most copied in the history of fashion; Marilyn Monroe’s unforgettable pink gown; Audrey and her timeless dress from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, by Givenchy, and Ryan Gosling in “Drive”. Center, starlet Clara Bow, the first it-girl!

love interest, with costumes designed by Miuccia Prada.

But when you talk about iconic costumes, nothing beats the little black dresses that Audrey Hepburn, the muse of “fashion-films”, used in the classic “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”

by Blake Edwards in 1961. It was her fourth collaboration with fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy. Prior to this film, only widows and prostitutes wore black dresses. After “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and the iconic scene of Audrey eating a croissant with her pearl necklace in front of Tiffany’s, the little black dress immediately became a fashion icon, being adopted

all time, silent screen star Clara

became more professional and

actly like the one used by Ryan

was invited to create Robert

Bow. More recently, in the

eventually it turned into a hit.

Gosling in “Drive”. In 2013, a

Redford’s look for his title role

1980’s, the torn grey sweatshirt

For example take the romantic

strong candidate for the most

in “The Great Gatsby”. Lauren

used by Jennifer Beals in the

white dress, with broad shoul-

copied fashion item is the ruby

used a wide tie and changed

combination of fashion and

sexy disco romance “Flash-

ders, created by one of Holly-

dress used by Keira Knightley in

completely men’s fashion –

films can produce.

even at debutant’s balls. A magic that only the perfect

Plastic Dreams

The aesthetics of Brazilian cinema

48

49

CineMelissa Winter 2013

twenty years after resuming film production, filmmakers redefine the aesthetics of brazilian cinema in movies that range from popular TV-like comedies to dense and visually sophisticated narratives dealing with painful social issues.

By Suzy Capó Photos Courtesy of the distributors

O

ver the past 20 years, Brazilian

Different from other historical moments,

cinema has been undergoing

the contemporary Brazilian cinema is marked

a process of reinvention. After

by heterogeneity and diversity”, says

a brief period of total stagna-

Academy Awards nominee Cesar Charlone,

tion, due to the extinction of

the cinematographer of Fernando Meirelles’

Embrafilme, the State agency in charge of

“City of God”. “Each film proposes different

promoting, producing and distributing Brazilian

aesthetics,” he says.

films, production was resumed with innovative ways of representing the country’s reality.

New public policies and laws designed to

images varies from film to film. “The final

encourage film production in the mid-1990s

word is always the director’s, but while some

were the main stimulus for the resumption

of them go as far as telling you which lenses

of Brazilian cinema. Since the release of Carla

they want you to use, others give total

Camurati’s “Carlota Joaquina, Princess of Bra-

freedom to the Director of Photography”,

zil”, the film that marked the beginning of this

explains Charlone.

new period, there has been a new portrayal

Production designer Marcos Pedroso,

of aesthetics on screen. This was not only a

credited for arthouse films such as “Lower

consequence of greater financial investment in

City” by Sérgio Machado, “Cinema, Aspirins

film but also a need to take a new ideological

and Vultures” by Marcelo Gomes, and

stand in front of the great political, economic,

Karim Aïnouz’s upcoming film “Praia do

and social changes of the past 20 years.

Futuro”, identifies more than one direction

PhD candidate Daniela Gillone notes in

in Brazilian filmmaking. They range from

her research project “Identity and Politics in

market-oriented comedies, with a standard

Contemporary Brazilian Cinema”, that the

aesthetics drawn from broadcast television,

representation of the working classes some-

to socially committed films about violence

how repositions some aspects previously

and crime on the outskirts of large urban

exploited by the Cinema Novo movement.

centers or the inequality and lack of

In a different context and with “a new ideo-

prospects in the northeastern backlands.

logical stance of production, the hinterlands

According to Pedroso, the latter “use a

of the northeastern region, migration, and

documentary style, a true-to-life approach

especially the slums of large cities reappear

in the way those realities are depicted”.

in different perspectives from those experienced in the 1960s,” she says.

On this page, still from “Love for Sale”, a film by Karim Ainouz shot in the hinterland of Northeastern Brazil, a region frequently portrayed in Brazilian cinema.

According to Charlone, even the role of the cinematographer in the construction of

Aesthetically, comedies like “Until Luck Tears Us Apart”, by Roberto Santucci, and

Another feature observed by Gillone is

“If I Were You” 1 and 2, by Daniel Filho, are

the predominance of realism in much of the

more homogeneous as they portray realities

recent filmography. But the way this image

seen in the Brazilian soap operas, produced

of realism is portrayed in Brazilian cinema is

by Rede Globo. Their cinema branch, Globo

very diverse. For this reason it is difficult to

Filmes, has participated in the production of

group the filmmakers who have emerged in

more than one hundred Brazilian films. That

the last 20 years within a single thematic or

“aspirational aesthetic” involving lighting,

aesthetic movement.

production, costume design and casting,

50

Plastic Dreams

51

CineMelissa Winter 2013

Clockwise, stills from: “Rat Fever”, an auteur film by Claudio Assis; the aesthetically brutal “Neighbouring Sounds”, an unexpected box office hit directed by Kleber Mendonça; “Until Luck Tears Us Apart”, Roberto Santucci’s 2012 blockbuster that recreates soap opera aesthetics; “Linha de Passe”, Walter Salles’ portrayal of a lower middle class family; and action-packed “Elite Squad”, by José Padilha, set in Rio de Janeiro’s violent slums.

has great appeal to the audiences: the films co-produced by Globo Filmes led 120 million viewers to movie theaters since the branch of the company was founded in 1998 - a significant number for the Brazilian market.

But not only standard comedies have had success with larger audiences. “Elite Squad: The Enemy Within”, by José Padilha, “Carandiru”, by Hector Babenco, and “City of God”, by Fernando Meirelles, scored high at the box office without giving up more sophisticated image compositions and less palatable themes. All those films were co-produced by Globo Filmes and influenced Brazilian television, inspiring TV series such as “City of Men”.

The understanding of what is Brazil is frequently filtered, in the country’s contemporary cinema, by a foreign, outsider look.

Another strong strand in the national film industry is the authorial cinema, as represented by filmmakers Karim Aïnouz (“Madame Satã”, “Love For Sale”), Claudio Assis (“Bog of Beasts”, “Rat Fever”) and Marcelo Gomes (“Cinema, Aspirins and Vultures”, “Once Upon a Time Veronica”),

Imbued with a certain “Brazilianness”, both

presence in contemporary Brazilian cinema],

The impressions of the protagonist, at first

‘The Pope’s Toilet’ (a Brazil/France/Uruguay

musicians have become a local phenomena,

among others. Directors like Walter Salles

in the choice of topics and the construction of

the film could pass anywhere else with the

distant and introspective, are transformed as

co-production), the fact that I’ve been living

much more appreciated than Hollywood (or

(“Central Station”, “Linha de Passe” - English

images, the Brazilian auteurs start from more

same status quo that we have in the world”,

he travels across the contemporary inland. He

in Brazil for so many years and that I had

Bollywood) musicals, for instance.

title not available) and Fernando Meirelles,

personal issues and break away from visual

says Marcos Pedroso. “Its ‘Brazilian identity’ is

gets closer to the arid landscape of the north-

a Brazilian editor was very important in

have become big names in the international

clichés in their representations of Brazilian

evidenced in its ugliness, in a certain aesthetic

eastern backlands, audio-visual pollution in

conveying the Uruguayan spirit”, he reveals.

cinema scene because of films that play out

realities. “The effort [made by these directors]

brutality constructed by the director”, he adds.

small towns and the various people he meets

in impressive ways. They show the power

is not to discover a profound Brazil, but a

struggles between different segments of ur-

universal one” says Pedroso.

ban society or narratives closer to the small

The most successful film d’auteur in recent

Curiosly, the understanding of what is Brazil

If there’s not a Brazilian way of filmmak-

Whether blockbusters, low-budget productions, genre or auteur films, the Brazilian cinema is in fact redefining itself,

as they refer, in small frames and details, to

ing there’s certainly a Brazilian taste. In addi-

reflecting the current situation of the

is often filtered in our cinema by a foreign

very personal, and at the same time univer-

tion to the forementioned TV-like comedies,

country. By means of professionals working

look, an outsider look. In “I Travel Because

sal, feelings, such as love and loneliness.

very particular film genres have emerged

in film, TV and advertising, new aesthetics,

in recent years. “Our Home: The Astral

perspectives, and modes of production

details of daily life, and focus on characters

months, “Neighboring Sounds”, by Kleber

I Have To, I Come Back Because I Love You”,

“There’s no such thing as a Brazilian way of

who fight to survive or who are looking for

Mendonça Filho, follows this trend. “Despite

a road movie co-directed by Marcelo Gomes

making films”, says Charlone. In fact, a foreign

City”, by Wagner de Assis, has consolidated

have emerged in attempting to describe

more subjective conditions such as rescuing

being located in Recife [a city in the northeast

and Karim Aïnouz, a geologist is sent to the

perspective could be very welcome when

the “spiritist film” genre in Brasil, while

the diversity and great cultural, social and

moral or ethical values.

of the country with a particularly strong

northeast to work, after a painful breakup.

approaching very regional issues. “In my film

documentaries and biopics about Brazilian

geographical dimension of Brazil.

Plastic Dreams

52

53

Akosua Adoma Owusu, 29, Director Akosua Adoma Owusu is an Afro-American film director who’s like an ambassador for new African storytelling. “The continent of Africa has a history that is rich with fascinating stories, and cinema can be used like a window into that world. As an African filmmaker, I feel that it is my duty to seize that opportunity and offer something incredibly real from Africa to the world of cinema; something that goes beyond stereotypical depictions and the usual traditions of film”, says Adoma.

She was born in the US, but her parents are from Ghana. She became interested in working in film when she met Kevin Jerome Everson, an experimental black filmmaker, with whom she took courses during college.

After graduating in Media Studies & Studio Art from the University of Virginia, she went Still from “Kwaku Ananse”, a film by Ghana-based film director Okosua Adoma (opposite page, bottom left), which premiered at the 63rd Berlin International Film Festival.

on to receive her Master’s degree in Film & Fine Arts from the California Institute of the Arts. For Adoma, being a film director is “a platform to express a voice eloquently and create poetry in moving pictures”. Since she’s become a film director she has made eight short films and installations. 2013 has been a very special year to Adoma, because “Kwaku

From top to bottom, stills from the movie ‘“Feriado” (“Holiday”), an Ecuador/Argentina production directed by Diego Araujo with cinematography by Magela Crosignani (bottom, right).

Ananse”, her first short fiction film, commis-

Real life characters and their stories

sioned by Focus Features Africa First Program, has been travelling the festival circuit after premiering at the 63rd Berlin International

Magela Crosignani, 33, Cinematographer Magela Crosignani is a cinematographer

Film Festival, in February. “Kwaku Ananse” is

from Uruguay. Since her childhood she’s

a story about a Ghanaian girl of the diaspora,

been attracted to photography, painting

who travels to Ghana for her father’s funeral,

and drawing. Because of these passions,

and ends up having a closure moment in the

when she decided to work with cinema

forest with her father’s spirit.

it was more natural for her to think of

Favorite film: “Black Girl”, by Ousmane

storytelling in visual terms. Filmmaking

Sembene

for Magela, “is an art that needs visuals to communicate a story and sometimes

Cinema, even when it is extremely personal, is an art form that involves many people.

Each one has their own function very well defined, and the division of labor is very important in film production. PLASTIC DREAMS interviewed young filmmakers from various cultures working in different positions in the industry. Aside from being passionate about cinema, they have one thing in common: they all have attended the prestigious Talent Campus at the Berlin International Film Festival.

a complex sentiment can be translated

By Marina Pecoraro Photos Courtesy of the artists

into a simple visual idea”. She has studied filmmaking at New York University (NYU),

“I shot my first feature film after graduating

where she focused on cinematography and

from AFI and I’ve not stopped since then.

documentary. After graduating from NYU

So far, I’ve shot around nine feature films

she received her Master’s degree from

as a cinematographer and few others

The American Film Institute (AFI) in Los

as a camera operator or second unit

Angeles, with a focus in Cinematography.

cinematographer”, shares the Uruguayan

Magela had the privilege of working on

cinematographer.

a Spike Lee movie in New York City as an

Favorite film: “Double Life of Veronique”,

intern, in her first real set experience.

by Krzysztof Kieslowski.

54

Plastic Dreams

55

CineMelissa Winter 2013

Here and below: movie stills from “Social Butterfly”,

by Baltimorebased director Lauren Wolkstein, pictured in black and white.

Monica Palazzo, 34, Film and Art Director/Production Designer Monica Palazzo has always liked cinema, literature and creating realities. In her first year studying Image and Sound, at Universidade Federal de São Carlos, she was responsible for the art direction of short films as well as the décor and ambience of several parties. The production designer is responsible for creating a visual reality that will be filmed according to the story being told.

He creates the context for the characters to exist, for the cinematographer to create the lighting, and for the director to orchestrate it all. “The production design needs to be consistent with the story being told. It’s his

On this page: stills from “Colors”, with production design

by Monica Palazzo (pictured above). It is the first feature film by director Francisco Garcia, and has been shown in international film festivals in San Sebastián, São Paulo, Cartagena and Glasgow.

responsibility to understand the film that the director is doing, and work with him and the other professionals involved.” explains Monica. When this combination doesn’t

Lauren Wolkstein, 30, Screewriter and Film Director Lauren Wolkstein is an American

films, (‘Social Butterfly’, ‘The Strange Ones’ and ‘Cigarette Candy’) have won major awards and qualified for the Oscars”, reveals

Maria Alexandrovna Andreeva, 24, Cinematographer/Film Critic The youngest filmmaker interviewed by

emotions”. Since 2006 she’s been working as a film critic and has shot documentaries and short films with many directors from different

work, the spectators, even if they are not

screenwriter and film director, living and

Lauren. Her new film, “Social Butterfly”,

PLASTIC DREAMS was born and raised in Omsk,

countries. Maria Andreeva is the first member

film experts, will notice there’s something

working in Baltimore, Maryland. She was

world premiered at the 2013 Sundance Film

Siberia, before moving to Moscow to com-

of her family to work in the film industry.

missing or that the story is not plausible. In

considered one of the top twenty-five

Festival. For the upcoming director, cinema

plete her studies. “This has certainly affected

“My parents still don’t understand where I

her 10-year career Monica has worked in

emerging filmmakers by the Film Society

represents a way of expressing herself

my strong character!”, she says. Her way into

got this attraction from, but they’ve always

11 feature films and 25 short films. All her

of Lincoln Center and the Independent

visually in ways that she can’t do with words.

cinematography was paved during her school

been morally supportive”, she reveals. At the

experience and expertise as an art director

Filmmaker Project’s inaugural Emerging

For her, being a filmmaker means being able

years, when she learned painting, drawing and

moment she’s doing her PhD studies as a

and production designer is shared with the

Visions program at New York Film Festival,

to share stories and hopefully make a change

art history. “Visual sensitivity has always been

cinematographer at the Russian University of

students of the Academia Internacional

in 2011. Lauren majored in computer

in the way people view the world. “I like to

the main part of my perception and I’ve always

Cinematography, focusing on German Cinema.

de Cinema, AIC, as well as with graduate

science and film at Duke University, in North

be able to share different perspectives and

wanted to express myself through images”,

Favorite film: “Mournful Unconcern”, by

students of the Faculdade Belas Artes de

Carolina, and also studied film in graduate

tell stories of characters that will stick with

she explains. “At first I’d take photos, but it

Alexander Sokurov.

São Paulo and Escola de Comunicação e

school at Columbia University, in New York.

people forever like all of my favorite films

was not enough for me: the world of cinema

Artes from the University of São Paulo.

She has been working in the industry for

have done for me”, she says.

goes deeper and gives more depth not only to

Favorite film: “The Pillow Book”, by Peter

more than 10 year and directed several

Favorite film: “Paris, Texas”, by

express feelings but also to make people from

Greenaway.

short films during this time. “My last three

Wim Wenders.

different countries experience a great variety of

For more information about these and other filmmakers, check the Talent Campus website at berlinale-talentcampus.de

On top, movie still from “Good Morning, Azov”, with cinematography

by Maria Andreeva (middle). Here, still from “Paris Moscow - Paris”, also photographed

by Andreeva.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

fotos divulgação

A Female Point of View

Plastic Dreams

I

t is curious to note that many of the women who

A very interesting quality, common among many of

direct documentaries, both past and present, are

Brazil’s female documentarians, is the courage to tell

considered revolutionaries in both the aesthetics and

really personal stories. They are not afraid to go deep

techniques of filmmaking. Two great examples of this

into their family dramas and their intimacy, without any

would be Leni Riefenstahl and Agnès Varda. It is not

self-indulgence or self-pity. Recent films such as “Diary,

just because women have a feminine perspective or

Letters, Revolutions / Diário de uma Busca” (2010) by

a feminist point of view, its because women have made

Flávia Castro and “Elena” (2012) by Petra Costa, draw

substantial contributions to the growth of the medium,

upon, in different ways, Sandra Kogut’s “Hungarian Pass-

pioneering techniques that are widely used today by all

port” (2001). Kogut starts with a banal topic, her desire

filmmakers – both in documentaries and in fiction. It is

to obtain her European passport – but ends up telling a

virtually impossible to define and label “Female Cinema”

bitter-sweet story of exile, immigration and family roots.

due to the broad base of issues it encompasses and the various paths it has taken.

The German director Leni Riefenstahl was one of the first and perhaps the greatest female documentary filmmaker of all time. Her films of the Nazi period, “Triumph of the Will” (1935) – about the rallies of Hitler in the 5th Convention of the National Socialist Party – and “Olym-

There is a certain sensibility which enables women to reach places and get results that men cannot.

pia” (1938) – about the Olympic Games in Berlin – are

Continuing with the theme of exile, Flávia Castro, in

considered revolutionary works and are fundamental in

her film “Diary, Letters, Revolutions” tries to understand

the history of cinema, placed alongside the great formal-

the reasons for the death of her father, a militant leftist

ists and creators of cinematic grammar. To get an idea of

in Brazil who, upon returning from abroad, dies under

the power and influence of her work, sport TV continues

suspicious circumstances at the home of the consul of

to repeat, in slow motion, shots that she envisioned for

Paraguay in Porto Alegre in 1984. In the film, documen-

“Olympia”, as well as the use of carts and rails to monitor

tary and fiction mingle again, and the documentation of

athletes racing – a technique that until then, was only

the search becomes more important than understanding

used in fiction films, not documentaries. Even with her

the reasons behind the death itself.

infamous association to the Nazi regime and her deep

The same observations can be made about the film

belief in National Socialism, it is impossible to think of film

“Elena” by Petra Costa. While investigating the suicide

without recognizing Riefenstahl’s contributions.

of her sister, Petra does not attempt to analyze her

Agnès Varda, on the other hand, is a key figure in the

sisters motives, but rather documents the anguish

creation of the French Nouvelle Vague. She was part

of those left behind, shattered, trying to pick up the

of the famed Rive Gauche gang, alongside Marguerite

pieces and continue living. Here fiction gives way to

Duras, Alain Resnais and Chris Marker, among others.

experimentation with video art, to better exemplify

“Cleo from 5 to 7” (1961), her best-known film, blurs the

the pain and sorrow of mourning.

boundaries between real and imaginary. With the inclusion

We can affirm that, more than a “female cinema”,

of fiction she expanded the formidable possibilities of

there is a female way of making films and a certain

documentaries, giving them a sense of freshness, youth

sensibility, which enables these women to reach places

Traditional cinema (fiction) has historically portrayed women as a passive object, on a pedestal of beauty.

Documentaries have opened the window to allow women to tell their own stories, using their own voice and perspective with amazing results, not just to the narrative, but to filmmaking itself.

and verisimilitude that had never been seen before.

and get results that men cannot. The feminist docu-

By Clarice Reichstul

In Brazil, one of the most regarded female filmmakers

mentarian Laura Mulvey argues that cinema made

is Helena Solberg, director of “Carmen Miranda: Bananas Is

by women is a “counter-cinema” because it has to

My Business” (1995). Since her first film in 1966, women

struggle against the voyeurism and the fetishism in

and the female world have been the focus of her gaze,

which women are treated in traditional fiction cinema,

both in documentary and in fiction. Another great Brazilian

grounded in patriarchal beliefs. In the 1970s, at the

documentarian who has an extremely interesting trajec-

height of the feminist movement, women on both sides

tory is Sandra Kogut. Coming from a generation of video

of the Atlantic produced films from this perspective,

artists in the 1980s, Kogut took elements of video art and

especially in the United States and in France.

brought them to the documentary sphere and then took

The endless debate about the role of women in the

the documentary to fiction in her film “Mutum” (2007), an

cinema during the 1970s somehow liberated the follow-

adaptation of the book “Campo Geral” by Brazilian writer

ing generations from this question. Only after this period

Guimarães Rosa. In her films the three styles mix, offering

could we witness the production of women directors and,

a look that is both intimate and universal.

perhaps, a certain feminine vision.

Clockwise: Stills from “Olympia” (1938), by Leni Riefenstahl; “The Hungarian Passport” (2001), by Sandra Kogut; “Olympia”; “Diary, Letters, Revolutions…”, by Flávia Castro (2010).

Pictured center, movie director Agnès Varda.

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“I’m a fashion person, and fashion is not only about clothes... It’s about all kinds of change”, declared karl Lagerfeld. His iconic home library in his photo studio in Central Paris has over 60 thousand books, making it one of the largest private libraries in the world. But the self-declared “happy victim of books” has also travelled the world throughout his decades of work and now holds some of the most exclusive and breathtaking information not only in his hands, but in his mind. And that means the possibility of change and reinvention, something he has mastered in. Here is a selection of some of his favorite things in the fields of contemporary and modern art, architecture and literature, as well as travel and tourism! Inspire change in your life with Karl’s likes. A further selection can be seen at karl.com.

gettyimages.com | personal archive

KARL’s likes

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

02 11 10

08

09

06 07

01

03

15 14 04

13 12

05

01 The book “Inside Rio”, by Michael Roberts, Maurilla Castello Branco, Nicolas Martin Ferreira and Lenny Niemeyer.

02 Karl Lagerfeld’s drawing for the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris, 2012.

03 A book documenting the work of Le Corbusier.

04 Artist Vik Muniz and one of his works made out of trash.

05 Titian’s Saint John the Baptist.

06 Painting by Austrian artist Egon Schiele.

07 Concept-store colette, Paris.

08 En Japanese Brasserie restaurant, NY. 09 Lydia Courteille store, Paris. 10 Artwork by Wassily Kandinsky. 11 View of exhibition by Cindy Sherman.

12 Hilditch & Key store, Paris. 13 “Venus at her Mirror”, by Diego Velázquez. 14 Compilation of the works of Canaletto and Francesco Guardi. 15 A book with works by Edward Hopper.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

The man who knows too much!!!

The quality of a movie poster is essential for its success. And if we rely on Robert McGinnis’ talent, the CineMelissa collection will break several box office records in its premiere. For more than four decades his paintings have been on movie theater billboards worldwide. Having created over 1,000 posters for movies such as “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and “Barbarella” (not to mention all James Bond flicks from the 1960s and 1970s), this 87-year-old NorthAmerican is considered part of cinema’s iconography. Melissa is proud to have this inspiring artist as the creator of the new collection’s ad campaign. Ladies and gentlemen, Robert McGinnis.

check out the exclusive documentary made by melissa with Robert Mcginnis @ youtube.com/ melissachannel

By Duda Porto de Souza Photos Courtesy of Robert McGinnis

cover art today? How can it still innovate? What would you tell contemporary artists, working in these areas, to always keep in mind?

RMCG Early posters and covers

got out of high school, my art

possessed a subtle charm;

was a thrill... Then my first

perhaps the imperfection of

book-cover assignments at

a handmade product by one

Dell Publishing... In film, the

individual brought out more

“Breakfast at Tiffany’s” poster

teacher, Mister Rice, gained acceptance for me at Walt Disney Studios in Hollywood…

Later, joining Chaite Studios (an art studio) in New York

PLASTIC DREAMS Why did you decide to create for the brand Melissa? What was your inspiration?

ROBERT MCGINNIS I suppose

tions, allowing imagination to

scene of John Wayne in the

loving care than one involving

and the James Bond posters...

flow, refining elements. The

character of “Ethan”), “King

a machine. Computers have

The Artist of the Year Award at

pencil is like a searchlight gui-

Kong”, “Casablanca”, “The

emerged over brush painting.

the “Romantic Times” gala…

ding me safely into harbor.

Third Man”, and many more…

There is no denying the speed

Then the two books on my

and of course the lavish

and endless variations that

work – “Tapestry: The Art of

the curiosity and excitement

Hollywood musicals (with

are possible with computer

Robert E. McGinnis” and “The

stars such as Fred Astaire

art; however, the same

Paperback Book Covers of

the heart of illustration,

PD In your own words, how would you describe your women?

RMCG Essential qualities:

and Eleanor Powell). I prefer

fundamentals of imagination,

RMCG”. And lastly, to my utter

sets in motion imagination

Intelligent, feminine, delicate,

the black-and-white movies

staging and design are

surprise, my induction into

and images with endless

refined. In movement, graceful

of the 1920s and 1930s, for

required, despite the method

the Society of Illustrators Hall

possibilities; all of which

and fluid, with subtle muscular

they represent a vanishing

of transport.

of Fame in 1993… Paintings I

are present with Melissa...

definition.

American culture that I grew

of creativity, which is at

PD Can you share with us a little bit of your creative process? What are the most important aspects of your paintings?

RMCG Always first, with

Geographic Magazine, and also

Francis, Merle Oberon, Marlene

PD Can you share with us some of the highlights of your career?

RMCG Several moments stand

Dietrich, Norma Shearer, Vivian

out. When I was a child of 10,

the “Milo March” M.E. Chaber

Leigh, Carol Landis, Jeanette

my mother signed me up for

(author) series were favorites

MacDonald – to name a few!

art lessons at the Cincinnati

of mine… And now, all my

Art Museum, and walking

thanks to Melissa for giving

into that great world of art

me this opportunity

was very exciting… After I

to carry on!

up with. Also, the actresses

an allure that beckons.

PD What are some of your favorite movies of all times and do you have a particular genre that you prefer to watch and to work with? Why? RMCG Some of my favorite

were far more beautiful then than now. For examples: Kay

movies: “Stagecoach”, “The

pencil in hand, preliminary

Searchers” (based on this

drawings forming composi-

movie, I painted a western

like?: “Inca Wars” for National

PD What is the role of movie poster and paperback book

“China Trade”… In paperbacks, the “Shell Scott” Richard Prather (author) series and

Robert McGinnis (above, left), in his house in Greenwich, town located 50km from NY, and some of his creations: posters from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”(1961), “Barbarella”(1968), and his first book cover (for “Some Like it Cool”, 1965); opposite page, a true James Bond moment and one of his divas.

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Divas of the CineMelissa collection emanate a timeless and chic glamour Who wouldn’t like to be portrayed in a movie by a glamourous actress and, who knows, have their image on a movie poster?

Experience this emotion in the images created by artist Robert McGinnis for the CineMelissa collection.

They present nuances of nostalgia, even though still timeless, and take us to an almost dreamlike world. melissa doris clutch melissa chromatic

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melissa spikes

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CineMelissa Outono/Inverno 2013

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CineMelissa Outono/Inverno 2013

melissa ultragirl high

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I’M LIVING MY MEMOIR, I DON’T NEED TO WRITE IT.

Karlism

They say an image is worth a million words. In the case of Karlisms, you can say the opposite. karl Lagerfeld’s equally enlightening, fantastic and humorous quotes are the result of decades of unique experience in the fashion business. Ladies and gentleman, here are nuggets of wisdom from the designer himself. Enjoy our favorite Karlisms!

THE BEST THINGS I’VE DONE IN MY LIFE, I SAW THEM IN MY SLEEP, THIS IS WHY I HAVE A SKETCH BOOK IN MY BED.

L’ÉLÉGANCE N’EST NI UNE QUESTION DE PORTE MANTEAU, NI UNE QUESTION DE PORTE MONNAIE.

FASHION IS A LANGUAGE THAT CREATES ITSELF IN CLOTHES TO INTERPRET REALITY.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

CHANGE IS THE HEALTHIEST WAY TO SURVIVE. I DESIGN LIKE i BREATHE. YOU DON’T ASK TO BREATHE. IT JUST HAPPENS.

FASHION IS ABOUT TWO THINGS: THE EVOLUTION AND THE OPPOSITE.

PERSONALITY BEGINS WHERE COMPARISON ENDS.

LE LUXE, C’EST LA LIBERTÉ D’ESPRIT, L’INDÉPENDANCE, BREF LE POLITIQUEMENT INCORRECT. JE N’AIME ÊTRE QUE DE PASSAGE. JE SUIS NÉ DANS UN PORT, À HAMBOURG, DONT MA MÈRE DISAIT: ‘C’EST LA PORTE DU MONDE, MAIS CE N’EST QUE LA PORTE, ALORS DEHORS!’

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Since the beginning, fashion and movies have always had a lot in common. Both deal with desire and fantasy. At the start of the 21st Century, this coalition has become more united, with film directors creating campaigns and films directly for the fashion market, while fashion photographers are flirting with movies and video. These products are known as fashion films, a media that mixes art, music videos, fashion, movies and advertising. Here is a selection of some of the best examples of this trend that is only just beginning.

“SECRET GARDEN – VERSAILLES” Shot at the Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles, and directed by acclaimed fashion photographers duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin (read an interview with thwm on p. 72), this video had more then 6 millions views on Youtube. Breathtaking sets, a stunning cast dressed in luxurious clothes and Depeche Mode’s classic “Enjoy The Silence” as the soundtrack all combined for a very inspirational film – truly historic!

SEARCH FOR SECRET GARDEN VERSAILLES on youtube.com

“L’ODYSSÉE DE CARTIER”

By Sergio Amaral

Russia, the Wall of China, Taj Mahal, Grand Palais, the Louvre Museum, horses,

“THE NEW MIX”

a Chinese dragon and a panther (the icon of the brand) all show up on this

Karl Lagerfeld is the author of this video in

super production of epic dimension that celebrated the 165th anniversary of

partnership with photographer Barnaby Roper. The

Cartier jewelry. Directed by award winning multimedia artist Bruno Aveillan,

title suggests both a new mixture in fashion and a music

the movie took two years in the making, was exhibited on open TV, in movie

remix. The encounter between the worlds of fashion and music

theaters and got more then 16 million views on Youtube.

SEARCH FOR L’ODYSSÉE DE CARTIER on youtube.com

become even more evident when top models such as Anja Rubik, Saskia de Braw and Sui He show the collection’s looks in looping, whilst Karl Lagerfeld represents the DJ/creator of this mix.

“THE POWDER ROOM”

SEARCH FOR THE NEW MIX KARL LAGERFELD on youtube.com

Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada’s young brand, launched a movie project of their own: “Women’s

LANVIN FALL 2011”

Tales”, in which they invited distinctive female

Directed by fashion photographer Steven Meisel, this campaign for French label

filmmakers to explore the brand’s universe. In the first film

Lanvin became an instant hit amongst fashionistas due to its unpretentious

of the series, “The Powder Room” – shot at the traditional

nature. Wearing some of the most iconic looks of last summer’s collection (when

Claridge’s Hotel in London – North-American director Zoe

the video was launched), tops Karen Elson, Rachel Zimmermann and two boys

Cassavetes (daughter of famous “indie” actor/director John

have fun dancing to the beats of “I Know You Want Me”, by Pitbull. The video has

Cassavetes and actress Gena Rowlands) gives us an intimate

a very special appearance by Alber Elbaz, Creative Director of Lanvin, who reminds

look of this ultra-feminine environment of luxury and beauty.

us of one of fashion’s main principles: sometimes you just need to have fun!

SEARCH FOR THE POWDER ROOM MIU MIU on youtube.com

SEARCH FOR LANVIN 2012 AD CAMPAIGN on youtube.com

“L.A.DY DIOR”

“GIRLS ON FILM”

Even Hollywood actresses (who would’ve

Duran Duran’s classic song gives the title as well as the

guessed?) have their moments of anger, in this funny

soundtrack of this video produced and directed by Inez

and witty short directed by John Cameron Mitchell (from

Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, to celebrate Vogue

“Hedwig and the Angry Inch” and “Shortbus”). French superstar

Paris’ 90th anniversary and the launch of the magazine’s

Marion Cotillard is the ultimate diva in crisis with the “hard life” of a

I-Pad app. It’s a pure fashion celebration and shows the

movie star. Surrounded by limousines, champagne, bitchy hairdressers

backstage of an ultra-glamorous fashion shoot. Flirting with

and babbling stylists, Marion’s character decides to literally throw

a music video style, it stars Brazilian top Isabeli Fontana,

everything up in the air. SEARCH FOR L.A.DY DIOR on youtube.com

Anja Rubik and Natasha Poly as the models. The magazine’s editor, Emanuelle Alt, is responsible for the styling.

“GARETH PUGH”

SEARCH FOR GIRLS ON FILM VOGUE PARIS on youtube.com

A fan of the use of video as a fashion tool, Brit designer Gareth Pugh used

“SHADE PARADE”

the format to present his Autumn/

Proving that great ideas don’t necessarily need big

Winter 2009 collection. Partially shot

budgets, this video entertains while presenting the new color scheme of the much-desired nail polishes from Chanel.

With a very well thoughtout choreography of hands and fingers with

filled with unusual forms, revealing the creative universe of the designer.

SEARCH FOR SHOWstudio PUGH HOGBEN 2009 on youtube.com

stills from the movies

in black and white, the result is very conceptual, dramatic, geometric and

stills from the movies

filMfashionfilmfashion

Plastic Dreams

perfect nails, it creates a “Chorus Line” of the brand, Cabaret-like, in which the “dancers” perform can-can and shake over pearl necklaces, one of the brand’s most recognizable icons. Super cute and super cool!

SEARCH FOR SHADE PARADE CHANNEL on youtube.com

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melanie ward

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Images from the couple’s solo exhibition at Gagosian Gallery in Paris, which ran from March to January 2013.

Opposite page, Inez & Vinoodh, who have been working together since the late 80s, in a portrait

by Melanie Ward.

Digital masters

It is simply impossible to talk about blending fashion, photography and film without mentioning Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Partners in both life and work for 25 years, they met while studying art and photography. Since beginning to work together in the late 1980s, they have created images for the leading international brands in luxury and fashion, as well as the most influential publications. Their trajectory and experience have made them true masters of digital manipulation. “We realized that film would start to take over from photography”, they say, in an insight that changed their lives forever and would allow their

By Duda Porto de Souza work to reach an even larger audience.

Photos Courtesy of the artists

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I

n an exclusive interview with PLASTIC DREAMS, the world famous duo discuss how the introduction of

On both pages, images from the artists’ exhibition at Gagosian Paris.

Inez & Vinoodh were amongst the first photographers to show the public the full potential of digital manipulation.

video has impacted the

fashion industry, their own lives, and reveal a breathtaking future project.

PLASTIC DREAMS How do you see this moment in which so many prestigious fashion photographers are using video as a media to create campaigns, short films and other pieces in the fashion industry? Do you think it is a crisis of photography or a consequence of the youtube generation?

INEZ + VINOODH It is an exciting moment that is the great consequence of the youtube generation. It allows us to tell a bigger more complex

from a regular director, whose

and vibrant story for a larger

background is usually making

audience (both of our Dior

feature films.

and Louis Vuitton films have

deliver both print and video of

PD When did you start using video as a language for your work and why? Did it start informally or already as a request from a client or a brand?

I+V We started about four years

the same quality, plus the fact

ago when we realized that

that we understand fashion,

film would start to take over

beauty and body language, and

from photography and decided

are able to translate that into

to be ahead of the curve and

moving images sets us apart

suggested to our clients that

reached a total of over 40 million viewers each). Our clients realized that hiring a separate photographer and movie director does not always work out well. Our ability to

“This meant working 48 hours around the clock in 109 degrees heat, but each time Gaga stepped into our white space it was fireworks and pure inspiration”, reveal Inez and Vinoodh about the timeless “Haus of Yoü” videos they did for Lady Gaga.

they add the time and the

It has tripled our workload but

Stanley Kubrik are great

money for a video for the web.

also made it 3x more exciting.

influences of ours.

PD Before you started using video in a professional manner, did you have to look for and learn new skills and techniques to better utilize this medium?

Did it mean changing your everyday professional lives?

I+V It changes everything. The

PD How has cinema influenced your work? Can you share with us some of your favorite movies?

I+V We have always been

PD What was your most intense and demanding video experience and why?

I+V The five “Haus of Yoü”

PD The spectator can see that many of your videos include a lot of production.

Do you have a “dream project” that you would like to create and record?

I+V We would love to do a

videos we did for Lady

music video for Prince.

excited by cinema and music

Gaga, that were launched

videos. Camera movement,

next to her official video for

lighting, editing techniques,

“You and I” were the most

crew has grown with exciting

and the use of music and

intense and also the most

PD Do you have any plans of making a movie in the future?

I+V We are developing the

new people for camera and

sound effects by directors

exciting. We were situated

idea for a sci-fi rock opera

special effects etc. We have a

like David Lynch, Alexander

in a pig stable in a Nebraska

motion picture.

full time editor on staff and we

Sokourov, Antonioni, Eric

cornfield and had to build a

spend days editing with him.

Rohmer, David Fincher and

white studio within it. Gaga

scene. This meant working 48

PD Could you share with us some of the video projects that you will launch in 2013?

We all look forward to seeing and sharing them! ;-) I+V There will be a new

hours around the clock in 109

film for Dior and the

degree heat, but each time

second installment of the

Gaga stepped into our white

Louis Vuitton’s project

space it was fireworks and

“Invitation au Voyage”,

pure inspiration.

with Arizona Muse.

was shooting the “You and I” video there and we would shoot her different personas each time she’d finish a

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Plastic Dreams

One iPhone in hand, one ideia in your head Showing your talent has never been so easy, In a high tech or low tech way! Smartphone + simple editing program + youtube = an accurate formula to create (and launch) your own movie!

By Duda Leite However, success comes from your inspiration!

maker Glauber Rocha

W

portant aspect in filmmaking. In

on your iPhone, Cinemagram

but in productions with smaller

(the father of the “Ci-

Brazil, there has been a long dis-

(the movie version of the ultra-

budgets you can not use it. I

nema Novo” movement) said in

cussion about creating a system

popular Instagram) is a good

really like the Canon C300. I’ve

the 1960s his famous phrase “a

that requires film distributors

option, although most of the

already used it with many differ-

camera in hand, an idea in the

to showcase local productions.

videos there are very basic, with

ent lenses and I’m always happy

head”, he had no clue he was

But a quick visit to any shopping

low-tech special effects. Don’t

with the result. My third option

predicting the digital revolution.

mall in any Brazilian city shows

forget: a good idea in your head

is the Red Scarlet with a Canon

that this did not work. The

is the most important!

nozzle. Everyone has the lenses,

hen Brazilian film-

At that time the cameras

The distribution is another im-

If your film is a short produced

If you really want to become

the best texture and latitude,

Producing images became something very easy to do, but producing something good, remains as difficult as ever. It has hard to call attention amongst a multimedia crowd.

the sensor is good, the price is

were large and heavy, and the

overwhelming majority of films

movies were expensive and

being shown are Hollywood

a professional in the audio-

almost the same as to shoot

to draw attention to your product.

needed to be developed in

blockbusters. So if your idea is to

visual field, today there is a

with a Canon 5D, but the result

According to Fernando there is a

the challenge remains to

out of the ordinary! After all,

laboratories. Nowadays anyone

make a more “indie” film, “do it

wide range of options ranging

is infinitely better”. Fred is eager

unification of images. “Producing

produce something original.

when someone chooses to make

with a small digital camera or

yourself” style, your best option

from more professional digital

to test the Black Magic and the

images became something very

Therefore, take note of what’s

films – analog, digital or even

even an iPhone (or almost any

would be the internet. Nowa-

cameras (like the REDs and the

Canon C500.

easy to do, but producing some-

happening around you. Pay

virtual what matters most is the

smart phone with a camera) and

days with Youtube or Vimeo (the

super popular Canon 5D and 7D),

thing good, remains as difficult as

attention to your friends, neigh-

content. An iPhone in hand, an

a computer with a basic editing

favorite site for “indie” filmmak-

to more basic ones like GoPro,

have to think about the distribu-

ever”, he adds.

bors, family, pets etc., and think

idea in your head!

program can make a movie.

ers) anyone can display their

which has the option of shooting

tion. “I’m super in favor of the

After producing your film, you

latest work to a big audience or

underwater – perfect for making

democratization in all digital

need a computer. With some

even be discovered by some big

a movie during your next vaca-

media, it makes it so much easier

“apps” like “Splice” you can edit

Hollywood producer!

tion in California or in Thailand,

for people to be creative”, says

There are on-line festivals

depending on your budget! All

Fernando “Del” Reginato, director

own iPhone. (Check the BOX

specialized in virtually every

of these cameras record in full

of many music videos, includ-

with the Apps).

genre, from documentaries to

HD; quality accepted by most TV

ing “Mariô”, from Brazilian artist

horror movies. One of the coolest

channels, if you decide to sell

Criolo. “Nowadays it is very easy

to have a good idea in mind!

sites to display your movie is

your product.

for an artist to record an album,

And that depends entirely on

Mubi (www.mubi.com), which

you. A good tip is to start shoot-

has a nice selection ranging from

director Fred Ouro Preto, who

the movie or music video and sell

ing things from your daily life,

classics to films that were never

directed the award winning

the product all from the comfort

like your boyfriend (or girlfriend)

released for distribution at the

music video “Zica Vai Lá”, from

of their own house.” adds

surfing in a paradisiacal beach,

theatres. My documentary “Tiki-

Brazilian rap sensation Emicida

Fernando. But if on one hand it

or your kitten (or puppy) being

mentary”, about the Tiki culture,

prefers to work with the Arri

became very easy to produce,

cute, that’s entirely up to you.

for example, is available there.

Alexa. According to Fred, “it has

the downside is it’s much harder

Sometimes, you don’t even

your next masterpiece on your

But back to Glauber, you need

Advertising and music video

create their own website, direct

So, sexy girls and cute boys:

about something original, that’s

whatsapp? ;-) DIY!!!!!!!!!!

Cinemagram Cinemagram is an iPhone “app” that brought to the world of movies the same democracy that Instagram brought to photography. With cool filters that can add some style to your “minimovies”, anyone can pretend to be Spielberg, Tarantino or Gus Van Sant, depending on your taste.

I-Supr8 Would you like to make your movie look “vintage”? There are several options for the I-Phone. One of the coolest is the “Super 8 ™”. It makes your phone turn into an old Super 8 camera and the result is amazing.

I-FilmDirector This “app” has a more professional feel to it.

With “I-Film Director” you can record, edit, choose a soundtrack and publish your film, all in the same “app”, without needing to have a computer.

Splice Splice is an “app” specifically created for editing. It is not so simple to use: the interface is kinda complex. Better stick to the “I-FilmDirector” or import your film to your computer and edit it using Final Cut Pro, available for Apple computers.

Pin-up culture immerse yourself in a different era! elegant pin-ups wearing some of the hits of the new cinemelissa collection. creative direction Eduardo Jord達o de Magalh達es photography Sandrine Dulermo & Michael Labica fashion director Neil Stuart fashion editor Cheryl Konteh make up Terry Barber @ DWM using MAC hair Anna Cofone using Frederic Fekkai hair assistant Kerri Ewart nail technician Andrea Fulerton @ Emma Davies using Andrea Fulerton Nail Boutique set Designer Jude Singleton models Anya, Lysa & Sofia @ Storm

knickers Miu Miu vintage dress Emanuel Ungaro hat Piers Atkinson

Melissa marilyn

Due to print reproduction some styles may suffer color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available.

dress Dolce & Gabbana hat Stephen Jones vintage jewelry

Melissa harmonic

rubber dress Atsuko Kudo vintage glasses hat Piers Atkinson

Melissa doris spikes

bikini Paul Smith hat Piers Atkinson vintage jewelry

Melissa billy creepers

Following page: rubber bra and knickers Atsuko Kudo headband Stephen Jones

vivienne westwood anglomania + Melissa animal toe

corset and tulle skirt I.D.Sarrieri sequin knickers Miu Miu

Melissa kristen

all wear bodies Wolford headbands Top Shop

Melissa moon dust special Melissa moon dust Melissa riding

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CineMelissa Winter 2013 01 Stars of the new CineMelissa collection backstage. 02 Model Anya Alice Marie Barker poses for photographers Sandrine Dulermo and Michael Labica. 03 and 04 Hair stylist Anna Cofone in action, who opted for a modern take on the pin-up looks of the 30s, creating sexy wavy hair and perfect red lips.

The new old Hollywood Join Melissa’s team in reinventing the classic beauty of Hollywood’s golden era – an exclusive photoshoot in london.

01

02

03

04

By Ilana Rehavia, London Photos Tom Ellis

T

he mood in London’s

fashion editor Neil Stuart. He

Coconut studios was one

put together playful looks

of classic glamour. Inspi-

mixing rubber dresses with

red by the pin-ups of a bygone

couture hats, vintage pieces and

era and the sirens of the silver

modern designers.

screen, our team put together

Meanwhile, the beauty team

a modern interpretation of

went all out with glitter nails,

old Hollywood.

sexy wavy hair and the perfect

Right in the middle of the

red lip. “We did a modern take

set, an original Corvette - red as

on the pin-up looks of the 30s”,

they should always be - drew

explains hair stylist Anna Cofone.

gasps from every crewmember

Nail technician Andrea

that arrived for the shoot. All

Fulerton couldn’t resist giving

shiny and cute, the converti-

model Sofia a classic half-mo-

ble was a good match for the

on 50s mani. “She has one of

beauty of our three gorgeous

the most beautiful natural set

models, Sofia, Lysa and Anya.

of nails I’ve worked with. They

“The idea behind this shoot was to take the Melissa girls on a trip to Hollywood with

are perfection personified”, reveals Andrea.

Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor

glamorous nights out and fun

and Marilyn Monroe would

times at the beach”, reveals

definitely approve!

Our models Sofia Milo Serbian model Sofia Milo was discovered at 14 in her native Belgrade. Her long list of amazing jobs includes campaigns and shows for Valentino, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Betsey Johnson. Sofia lives in New York, but is in love with Brazil. “The mentality is so similar to my country, because both Brazilians and Serbians are very friendly and like to enjoy life, dance and have fun.” She’ll never forget flying in a helicopter past Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, during a gorgeous sunset. “I was speechless.”

Favourite film: “The Godfather”, by Francis Ford Coppola.

Lysa Onysko While she waits in hair and make up, Ukrainian Lysa can be found with her face buried in a book. She’s just started studying History of Europe and America, using distance learning to suit her nomad lifestyle. Lysa was scouted five years ago in her hometown, Lviv.

“I love modelling, meeting people, discovering new places and being on these amazing artistic shoots.” One of her most memorable jobs was being underwater for a GQ magazine shoot at the iconic Pineapple Studios, in London. “It was the experience of a lifetime.”

Favourite film: “The Game”, by David Fincher.

Anya Alice Marie Barker Beauty runs in the genes of British-Swedish model Anya. Her mum used to be a model and, when Anya was scouted, encouraged her girl to try it out. “I am a bit of a class clown and until then I always wanted to act.” Not that Anya is complaining. She recognizes the opportunities that come with the job and enjoys the fact that she had to grow up faster than her friends. One of her highlights so far was taking part in the show for Beyoncé’s clothing line. “Meeting the singer backstage was definitely a bonus. She was flawless.”

Favourite film: “Blow-up”, by Michelangelo Antonioni.

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93

CineMelissa Winter 2013

Generations of romance

Y

By Suzy Capó

oung readers please

cowboys. It’s a tragic love

is no contemporary

in the subject in the 1930s.

story, but so is “Romeo and

film today that represents

The golden age of Hollywood

Juliet”. Many romantic movies

love like the classics of the

coincided with the Great

have been loosely adapted

golden age of Hollywood did.

Depression, the worst and

from this Shakespearean play,

True, the films in the Twilight

longest period of economic

especially “West Side Story”,

Saga, based on the books by

recession of the 20th century.

set in the 1950’s.

Stephenie Meyer, are mega

Romantic films served as an

romantic, but when I look

escape for viewers, especially

Story”, the original score of

for pictures to illustrate my

when the main characters

the film is considered one

fantasies of eternal love,

overcame obstacles, declared

of the best of the romantic

the scenes that come to my

their love and lived happily

genre for its memorable

mind are from classics such

ever after. In that context,

songs. Music and romance

as “Gone With the Wind…,”

it is easy to understand the

- How could you not think

“Casablanca” and “From Here

appeal of the genre and, con-

of “Ghost”, when listening

to Eternity”.

sequently, the interest of the

to “Unchained Melody”?

studios in promoting it.

And Vangelis’ soundtrack

mean that there is no romance anymore.

But maybe the studios

In the golden years of

And speaking of “West Side

for “Blade Runner” almost

economic growth in the U.S.,

transforms this classic sci-fi

many romances implemented

into a romantic movie. Some

invested more in this theme

humor. Two acting couples

tracks from certain movies

in the past. In the book “Con-

became famous at this stage

define a generation. Just think

suming Romantic Utopia,”

of romantic comedies. Be-

of Simon & Garfunkel’s “Miss

sociologist Eva Illouz notes

tween 1942 and 1957, Kath-

Robinson” from “The Gradu-

that surveys taken in 1935, at

erine Hepburn and Spencer

ate”, one of cinema’s best

the height of the Hollywood

Tracy starred in five films that

romantic movies ever.

golden-era, showed that

focus on the way the couple

love was the most important

relate to each other, rather

the films, but the way the

theme of the movies.

than how they got together.

stories are told that defines a

It was a precursor of how the

generation. The films reflect,

Greta Garbo became stars for

genre would evolve in the

but also at the same time

their ability to show on the

1970’s, particularly after the

shape the aspirations of the

screen the feeling of passion.

release of Woody Allen’s “An-

societies in which they are

This skill became especially

nie Hall”. Doris Day and Rock

produced. Thus, contemporary

important after the Hayes

Hudson also became very

romances are sometimes told

Code went into effect in

popular in the 1950’s for their

out of chronological order,

1934, which dictated what

so-called “sex comedies”,

as in “Eternal Sunshine of

could and what could not be

that despite the term, were

the Spotless Mind” or “The

seen on screen. Since there

extremely chaste.

Curious Case of Benjamin

At the time, actresses like

DOCTORMACRO.COM | courtesy of paris filmes

the relationship between two

industry invested so much

Of course, this does not

Actors Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr immortalize one of cinema’s most romantic kisses in “From here to Eternity” (1953). Opposite page, Kristen Stewart and Robert Pattinson bring romance back to the screens for a younger audience in “Twilight” (2008).

Its no wonder that the film

forgive me, but there

Actually, it’s not only

were several restrictions on

Not all romantic couples

the kissing, body language,

portray the loving relation-

Button”. But the quest for immortal love is eternal. That’s

and especially the expres-

ship between a man and a

why Bella and Edward will

siveness of the eyes, became

woman. One of Hollywood’s

live in the romantic imagery

critical to fill the voids in

most romantic movies is

of future generations, forever

romantic scenes.

“Brokeback Mountain”, about

and ever.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Cine Quiz Test your knowledge

Our cinema experts prepared a special quiz for you to test your knowledge. But don’t think it will be a piece of cake! Characters, screenplays, actors, box office hits, we have included a bit of everything.

Enjoy the journey and have fun!!!

4. Black Mamba, the bride portrayed by Uma

5. The pop-influenced thriller “Breathless” (1959) is considered a cult movie and is one of the best examples of French New Wave.

Based on a François Truffaut screenplay, the movie launched to fame its director Jean-Luc Godard and its star Jean-Paul Belmondo. In

the movie, Belmondo is the romantic interest of a North American actress who built a career in Europe. What’s her name? a) Josephine Baker b) Grace Kelly c) Jean Seberg d) Charlotte Rampling 6. In which film of the “Star Wars” franchise, written by George Lucas, does Luke Skywalker’s character find out that Darth Vader is his father? a) “Star Wars: Episode VI: Return of the Jedi by Richard Marquand b) “Star Wars: Episode II: Attack of the Clones”, by George Lucas c) “Star Wars: Episode I: The Phantom Menace”,

by George Lucas

photos vivi bacco AND COURTESY OF THE DISTRIBUTORS

3. The main prize at the Cannes Film Festival, the most important festival in the world, is the Golden Palm. Two other prestigious festivals are held annually in Europe, in Venice and Berlin.

What are the names of the prizes given at these festivals to the Best Film in Competition? a) Golden Pyramid and Golden Calf b) Golden Lion and Golden Bear c) Golden Alexander and Golden Star d) Golden Shell and Golden Leopard

Thurman in “Kill Bill” by Quentin Tarantino, wears a yellow jumpsuit identical to the one used by a legendary martial arts fighter and actor in his last film called “Game of Death”. Who was that actor? a) David Carradine b) Bruce Lee c) Jackie Chan d) Jet Li

photos shutterstock.com AND COURTESY OF THE DISTRIBUTORS

2. Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar won an Oscar in 2003 for the film “Talk to Her”. In which category did he win? a) Best Adapted Screenplay b) Best Foreign Movie c) Best Director

d) Best Original Screenplay

1: C, 2: D, 3: B, 4: B, 5: C, 6: D, 7: B, 8: C, 9: A, 10: C, 11: D, 12: B, 13: D, 14: C

1. Released in Germany, at the beginning of the 1920’s, this famous horror movie (directed by F. W. Murnau) is considered until today one of the best of its genre. What’s the title of this silent-classic, shot in black and white, and starring Max Schreck? a) “Dracula” b) “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari” c) “Nosferatu” d) “Frankenstein”

d) “Star Wars: Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back”,

by Irvin Kershner

b) Roy Scheider c) Bob Fosse d) Herbert Ross

7. What is the highestgrossing Brazilian movie of all time? a) “Two Sons of Francisco”, by Breno Silveira b) “Elite Squad: The Enemy Within”, by José Padilha c) “If I Were You 2”, by Daniel Filho d) “Lady on the Bus”, by Neville de Almeida

9. At the end of the 1990’s, new legislation provided support for local film production and helped to successfully increase the number of films made in Brazil, bringing the country back to the international scene. What movie is considered responsible for this “new wave of Brazilian cinema”? a) “Carlota Joaquina, Princess of Brasil”, by Carla Camurati b) “City of God”, by Fernando Meirelles and Kátia Lund c) “Foreign Land”, by Walter Salles d) “Central Station”, by Walter Salles

8. “All That Jazz” (1979) explores the psychological conflicts of a dancer/ choreographer called Joe Gideon. The movie is based on a biography of the films director. What’s his name? a) Lenny Dale

10. What’s the title of the South-Korean movie from 2003, in which a man is kidnapped and kept hostage in a room for 15 years and then goes on a journey to find out the reason why? a) “Rashomon”,

by Akira Kurosawa b) “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”,

by Ang Lee c) “Oldboy”, by Park Chan-wook d) “Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives” by Apichatpong Weerasethakul 11. “Toto, we are not in Kansas anymore” is a line immortalized in one of Hollywood’s greatest classic films of all time.

Who said that line? a) Mary Kane (Agnes Moorehead), in “Citizen Kane” b) Scarlett O’Hara (Vivian Leigh), in “Gone With The Wind” c) Margo Channing (Bette Davies), in “All About Eve” d) Dorothy Gale (Judy Garland), in “The Wizard of Oz” 12. Six actors have officially played James Bond, also known as 007, a secret agent in the British espionage service.

Which actor below has not played the character, created by Ian Fleming? a) George Lazenby b) Colin Firth c) Pierce Brosnam d) Daniel Craig

13. In Dreamworks animated 3D production, “Kung Fu Panda 2”, Tigress was part of the Furious Five clan. Which actress below was the voice of Tigress? a) Jodi Benson b) Natalie Portman c) Lucy Liu d) Angelina Jolie 14. The song “Maniac”,

by Michael Sembello, is part of the soundtrack of a very successful film from the 1980’s. What’s the name of the movie? a) “Fame”, by Alan Parker b) “Footloose”,

by Herbert Ross c) “Flashdance”,

by Adrian Lyne d) “Dirty Dancing”,

by Emile Ardolino.

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Your feet in movement The Cinemelissa collection is full of drama, comedy, suspense and action. In the Winter 2013, pick your mood and make an entrance worthy of the red carpet. Lights, camera, action! The rest of this story is up to you.

By Duda Porto de Souza

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Melissa spikes #nightandday #sexy #rockdiva

spike up your life!!!!

These galosh-inspired boots becomes hype with spikes. The utilitarian style, which has always been a must at music festivals, now comes with more fashion than ever!

PEEP-TOE LOVE The spikes are here to stay and in this deluxe, peep-toe style, they are gracing the back. The matte finish and the stiletto heel reinforce the rock’n’roll muse style. With the option of a fluo-

access melissa’s fanpage!

Download the QR code scan App on your smartphone.

Place it close to the image and take a photograph. Melissa hopes you enjoy this content!

rescent heel, extra glam!

Laid back look!

You know those days when you want to ‘dress down’, comfortable, with special attention to the

Melissa doris #urbanretro #deepdye # femininity

Melissa moon dust special #musicfestivals #totalhype #ilovetherain

accessories? Melissa Virtue III is the perfect choice. With metal spike applications, this style will match everything this winter.

Melissa virtue iii #yeah #joker #slippers

The Right Trend!

This classic pointy-toe shoe design brings femininity to all looks, Melissa Doris, a lowheeled style with sinuous lines, is available is two very special versions. The first utilizes the deep dye effect that is a hot trend at the moment in fashion. Melissa Doris Spikes, on the other hand, has an ‘alternative’ feel, with metal spikes Due to print reproduction some styles may suffer color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available.

inspired by the underground movement. This look is conquering both the international catwalks and the streets and is sure to be a winter hit.

Melissa doris spikes #connected #streetfashion #underground

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Melissa campana zig zag #design #wefts #brazilianpride Melissa campana zig zag for Kids #like #dancefloor #glitter Melissa ultragirl vii #fun #flocked #classic

Collector’s Items Following up our successful partnership, the Campana Brothers are back in revamped versions for all ages. The

mini melissa campana zig zag ix #pop #baby #supercute

Melissa ultragirl high #versatile #sweet #revamped

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S STYLE 1950s inspired, Ultragirl High makes a statement in the CineMelissa collection, with its Lolita

Zig Zag style is available in glitter and

style medium heel. The gold lace detail is super

features a more subdued color palette.

delicate, charming and completes the girlie look.

They are available in adult, children

The original version of this classic style has a new

and baby sizes. A true collector’s item!

color palette with a flocked effect.

Fairy Tales The classic Melissa Ultragirl, interpreted here by British body artist J. Maskrey, whose fan list

Melissa divine iii #rainbowdecor #goodhumour #pussycat

includes Britney Spears, J.Lo, Rihanna and Kate Moss, is back with Swarovsky crystals on the forefront of the shoe. Innovation is the perfect recipe for a happy ending!

Welcome Eccentricity Isn’t it a delight when you’re walking down the street, look down, and start to smile? Melissa Divine III is guaranteed to make you grin!

Its humorous adornment is the key to its charm. The style features a kitten face that will certainly win hearts!

Melissa ultragirl + j. maskrey #precious #glitz #happyending

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CineMelissa Winter 2013 mini melissa polibolha #pop #bicolor #girlsandboys

graphic Melissa has done it again; highlighting one of the most prevailing trends in fashion footwear, with our own interpretation.

Melissa Divine IV features stripes, plaid and polka dots in black and white, the perfect combination for those ultra colorful days.

Smashing!!!

Melissa divine iv #polkadots #stripes #blackandwhite

mini Melissa furadinha ii #sweet #picnic #hearts

vivienne westwood anglomania + mini melissa ultragirl iv #classic #princess #parties

mini mini mini With textures that resemble bubble wrap, the classic tennis Polibolha now comes with a Mini version (numbering 17 to 25), and can be worn by girls and boys. The new versions of Ultragirl and

Clutch My Heart

Mini melissa ultragirl ii #littlefoxes #smile #fun

Furadinha will make the little ones super happy! Check out the editorial on p. 110.

Chromatic, the bicolor, clutch purse, embraces the new trend in color blocking, more sophisticated tones.

The small golden diamond detail is chic. The model comes in total black, black and white, black and royal blue, brown and pink and green and grey.

Melissa chromatic #citygirl #seduction #bicolor

Our dear Minnie ;-) She’s the world’s most famous mouse and her iconic bow is part of the CineMelissa collection, in styles for baby, children and adults.

Retro style images of the classic character are featured on the insoles this season, giving a special charm for fans of the brand!

mini melissa Spider + Minnie #cutesy #classic #characters

Melissa ultragirl + minnie #bubbles #laces #perfectchildhood

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

indie star

SO call me maybe!

There is also a version with glitter! Perfect

Longtime partner, Dame Vivienne Westwood returns signing three styles for Melissa. The super

Melissa billy creepers #maxhit #punks #vibrantshades

for you to rock at music festivals in 2013 all over the world ;-)

chic Lady Dragon, with its saucy red lips is worthy of the red carpet. The irreverent Animal Toe represents the humor of the stylist in an accessible and smart design! And one more Mini Melissa! (see p.101)

Melissa moon dust #rain #glitter #lotsofmusic

maxi hit The style that emerged during the 2nd World War became fashionable among punks and Goths and invaded the pubs of London. With new renditions currently being featured on the main catwalks around the globe, Melissa Billy Creepers features vibrant shades and a flocked finish.

vivienne westwood anglomania + Melissa lady dragon #redcarpet #highheels #akissonthelips

UNDER THE SKIN Melissa Drama is an ankle boot with flowing neck that plays with asymmetry.

The minimalist design plays with audacious sensuality, sometimes showing and sometimes hiding the side of the foot. The right

Melissa kristen #glam #divas #redcarpet

vivienne westwood anglomania + Melissa animal toe #littleanimals #british humor #irreverence

climate for suspense and mystery.

Melissa drama #luxury #minimalism #asymmetric

Melissa riding #wow #adventure #horsewoman

JUST FOR DIVAS The most famous platinum blonde of cinema inspires this high heel style.

Bold as Marilyn, the bicolor shoe has a sporty waffle-like sole, to leave no

Urban Adventure

room for a misstep. The inspiration comes from the streets and the 1990s

Boldness meets elegance. The riding boot is one of

sportswear trend. In its glam version, the model is baptized as Melissa Kristen, in which the heel is metallic and dramatic.

the best bets in the collection, not only because of its

Melissa marilyn #boldness #high #superstar

sophisticated design, but also for its versatility. The long barrel of the boot is removable, transforming it into a utility model in a snap. Breathtaking!

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CineMelissa Inverno 2013

IT’S ALL ABOUT LOVE!!!

Melissa trippy ii #optimism #hope #romance

Romance, one of the most inspiring genres of cinema, is all over this collection. Gentleness, sweetness and optimism set the tone of Melissa Trippy II, with its new mega-heart adornment. An incredible way for you to spread the love on the hottest days of the season!

Galeria Melissa + Lego

The creative union between Melissa and Lego (who last year celebrated their 80th anniversary) was inevitable and a perfect way to end the year. Lego was commissioned to create the façade for Galeria Melissa São Paulo to mark the end of the Rainbow collection – and what a success it was! Designed by Casa Darwin and built by Coala, it featured a huge sky with clouds and a rainbow staircase, all made with 700 thousand pieces of Lego! One of the highlights of the event was in December, when the brand invited the public to help create a 6 foot tall Lego Christmas tree. The project marked the first time the public could literally walk over one of the façade installations. Want to see how this all came to life? Watch a special video on our YouTube channel (youtube.com. br/melissachannel) and find the pot of gold at the end of that rainbow! ;-)

shine bright “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend”, sang Marilyn (see her iconic costumes on p. 46). Melissa Harmonic incorporates the seductive and multifaceted features of the stone, both as an adornment, as well as on the printed insole.

Everything for you to walk like a millionaire!

Melissa harmonic iv #rich #summerdays #bestfriend

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Galeria Melissa NY celebrates its 1 year anniversary in great style!

06

WIH A NEW EXHIBITION BY WALT CASSIDY, GALERIA MELISSA NEW YORK REAFFIRMS THE BRAND’S commitment TO ASSOCIATE ITS PRODUCTS TO CONTEMPORARY ARTISTs.

02

S

ince its opening in 2012, Galeria

created from brass and wood. Cassidy,

Melissa New York has show-

as a diarist, uses his sculptures as an

cased the talent of unique and

invocation of the varied symbolism he

multifaceted creators such as avaf

refers to as “protective motifs” – repeat-

and Julie Verhoven, who were able to

ed ideas, patterns, images and themes,

translate the brand’s contemporary and

which serve as the physical beddrock

pop approach to footwear design into

upon which he extricates himself from

daring and colorful artworks. To celebrate

his personal experience.

its first anniversary, the concept-store

A video played on the back wall of the

located in SoHo commissioned works

gallery showed parts of the documentary

from an artist closely linked to the city’s

“BOOB: The Live Performances”, an im-

identity, Walt Cassidy.

mersion into the NYC club scene of Walt’s

Formely known as Walt Paper, a key

partnership with Nathan Maxwell Cann.

New York party scene of the early 90s,

BOOB was a conceptual hardcore rock

Cassidy has become a key artist in the

band that began amidst the infamous

city’s thriving art scene. His work serves

1990s New York City club scene at the

as a personal alphabet – charting a

time of Peter Gatien, owner of nightclubs

private topography of history, experi-

Limelight, Tunnel, Palladium and Club

ence, emotion, and thought. Surveying

USA. Led by club kids Walt Paper, Desi

inner landscapes, rendered in a visual

Monster (Desi Santiago) and Loxanna

language both intimate and arcane, his

(John McGrath), BOOB consisted of Mr.

productions include ink drawings, wall

Johnson (Scott Johnson) playing the gui-

sculptures and photographs. They testify,

tar, Sonia Sonic (Sonia Manalili) on bass,

was featured as their mascot, “The BOOB Girl”. “BOOB -The Live Performances”

it sensibly – to make outer order from

includes archival performance foot-

inner chaos.

age from many of these NYC venues, clips which provide a glimpse into the

graphs, featuring flat constructions of cut

frequently referenced period of New York

paper. These narrative abstractions seek

City nightlife.

11 13

12

14

At the opening, which took place in

conceptually challenging the notion of

February 2013, a group of fashionistas

still life photography and illustration, on

joined the artist and the hosts in a lively

which much of his work is rooted.

night to celebrate not only the first anni-

new sculpture called “The Wishing Well”,

05

combined with interviews and press

are from Cassidy’s Paper series of photo-

The window of the gallery presented a

10

06 Interior of Galeria Melissa Walt Cassidy NY. 07 Jeiza Chiminazzo. 08 Walt Cassidy.

09 Sami Dussin and Lorenzo Martone.

10 Hakan Urfalioglu and Juliana Huxtable.

11 Claude Morais, Jeiza Chiminazzo, Ariela Suster and Brian Wolk. 12 Victor Corona, Jocelyn Saldanha. 13 Mischa G and Stella Rose.

14 Interior of Galeria Melissa.

drums. The burlesque performer *BOB*

urgent expressive imperative is to render

to narrow the photographic plane, while

08 09

and Mayumi (Mayumi Shimokawa) on

often the private one, and that our most

The pieces produced for the gallery

07

generation, compiled and edited in

club kid of Michael Alig’s outrage-as-art

03 with remarkable emotive force, that the most demanding affective experience is

04

joe schildhorn/bfanyc. com e Elle Jota/BFANYC.com

01

versary of Melissa’s American outpost, but also the excitement of the Big Apple.

01 Belen Briego and Bubi Canan. 02 April Palasthy and Astra Moragianis.

03 Nicholas Gorham and Dan Terry. 04 Julie Beynon and Fay Power. 05 Walt Cassidy and April Palasthy.

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CineMelissa Winter 2013

Melissa has more than 1 million

Since the end of 2012, melissa.com.br, which has about 5 million visitors a year, got a new look on the web! The renova-

Always looking for new ways to connect with their consumers, Melissa has been

tion was made on the entire structure

expanding increasingly its social networks. We attained the impressive figure of 1 million ‘likes’ on our Facebook page in 2012. We have also been uniting our fans with special hashtags like #melissadodia (Melissa of the day, in Portuguese) and #melissatrends. In addition to this Melissa also has and active following on YouTube, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram – giving all our “melisseiras” (an affectionate nickname given to the fans of the brand in Brazil) many ways to stay in contact with the brand and share their thoughts.

Our new look on the WEB! of the website, so that it would better meet the needs of the “melisseiras” and upgrade the interface to make it compatible with tablets, computers and mobile phones. Everything to make sure that Melissa is with you anywhere in the world! When checking the links, you’ll see that everything is more intuitive, light and providing a quicker access, separating the products by color, style, trends and collaborators in the smoothest possible way! Also: tips for your Melissa look of the day! We’re waiting for you! ;-)

Melissa fans get a new meeting point!

CLUBE MELISSA has arrived in Brazil AND ALREADY HAS OVER 60 STORES in the COUNTRY. Besides selling all the styles in the collection, the stores will also have a cultural and art component as well as super special promotions.

Did you know there are

is responsible for the store

more than 60 Clube Melissa

design, which features interac-

stores throughout Brazil? The

tive touch panels.

project is another sales initia-

All your favorite designers

tive of the brand, featuring a

– such as Vivienne Westwood,

customized showcase of the

Jason Wu, the Campana Broth-

CineMelissa collection and

ers and Pedro Lourenço – are

others to come. This season,

already members! Now we

it features exclusive artwork

need you!!

by Robert McGinnis, creator of

One of Clube Melissa’s hits

some of the most iconic post-

is the Wish List, which makes

ers in film history (read more

it even easier to celebrate your

on p. 60).

birthday and receive the style

In addition to Galeria Melissa

you really wanted. It is as easy

São Paulo and New York, Clube

as this, visit one of the stores

Melissa stores are the newest

and select the model you

venues in the country to access

would like to have – then you

all the styles in the collection.

can give the person who is buy-

Besides offering an amazing

ing your present a card with all

retail experience with some

the information – and they can

excellent deals, Clube Melissa

purchase your gift – Yay!

is also a sensory experience

More then 60 new stores

with a strong artistic and

will open in 2013! Check out

cultural element. Renowned

the official website: clubeme-

Brazilian architect Bel Lobo

lissa.com :D

FOLLOW Melissa

Facebook: facebook.com/officialmelissa Instagram: @melissaoficial Pinterest: pinterest.com/melissaoficial Youtube: youtube.com/melissachannel Twitter: @sigamelissa

APP PLASTIC DREAMS Now you can download the latest edition of PLASTIC DREAMS on your Android. With all the editions available on the App Store, the magazine can be enjoyed anywhere you want with exclusive design and content. It’s distributed by Prdtrlnk, responsible for bringing some of the most important magazines from Brazil to the world of tablets! Enjoy!!!!

access melissa’s OFFICIAL WEBSITE! Download the QR code scan App on your smartphone.

Place it close to the image and take a photograph. Melissa hopes you enjoy this content!

Pure cuteness!

It’s tea time for our little ballerinas.

They show the graciousness of the Mini Melissa line, that now includes a super sweet Polibolha style.

creative director heidi taylor photography karin berndl make-up Lica Fensome @ Soho Management models Ruqayyah Daley @ Truly Scrumptuous, Lillie Shrouder @ Kids London, Elizabeth Poon @ Bruce & Brown and Kitti Dobbs

Due to print reproduction some styles may suffer color distortion. Not all styles shown are currently available. go behind the scenes of this photo shoot and checkout the footbook on youtube/melissachannel

mini melissa polibolha Melissa XXXXXXX XXXXXX

mini melissa furadinha mini melissa campana zig zag mini melissa aranha + minnie

mini melissa aranha + minnie following page:

mini melissa ultragirl mini melissa ultragirl ii

vivienne westwood anglomania + mini melissa ultragirl

mini melissa ultragirl mini melissa polibolha vivienne westwood anglomania + mini melissa ultragirl mini melissa ultragirl ii

Leather corset and fishnet bustier Cadolle Fishnet gloves Muriel Fishnet tights Wolford Leather and spike necklace DĂŠmonia Right hand: Metal and spike rings and bangles CrĂŠzus Left hand: Silver cuff Betony Vernon Rings vintage

Melissa ginga + karl lagerfeld melissa incense + karl lagerfeld

The designer’s sketch for the style Melissa Melissima + Karl Lagerfeld