level FOR YOUNG WOMEN WHO ARE UNASHAMEDLY FEMINIST AND FABULOUS
Understanding Intersectionality
UK £3.25 - MAY 2016
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Stay Safe Travelling Solo
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Ambivalently Yours
Editor’s Letter Welcome to the first ever issue of Level – for young women who are unashamedly feminist and fabulous. It’s been a jam-packed few months full of researching, writing, designing and of course having lots of fun in the process. Our content covers everything from lifestyle and culture to arts and crafts. All of us on the Level team had always felt there was something missing on the mag shelves in the UK; a publication full of engaging features catered towards feminists. Since one didn’t exist, we decided it was time to get down to business and create one. We have one simple goal; to make you feel included and empowered. I’d like to say a huge thank you to our incredible illustrators who have helped us bring our words to life, and to everyone who has supported us during the past hectic few weeks! Without you guys, Level wouldn’t be half of what it is.
he yes! Hell to t
If you’re thinking of going on holiday this summer, make sure you have a read of ‘Stay Safe Travelling Solo’ on page 13 for advice before going on your trip, also check out our look-book on page 7 for some gorgeous beach fashion inspiration! We also have a chat with Stella Dixon, who created the most original art-zine we’ve ever seen! Check it out on page 16.
BACKGROUND ILLUSTRATION BY SIAN LARKIN
A lot of TLC has been put into making Level a magazine full of style as well as substance. I hope you enjoy the first of many more issues to come!
Gorgeous
weather
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Contents
10 LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE
6 8 10 13
Talent Spotted: Melly Em Clark Understanding Intersectionality Getting To Know Ambivalently Yours Stay Safe Travelling Solo
COVER ILLUSTRATION BY AMI LOWMAN
ARTS AND CRAFTS
16 19 24 28
Zine of the Month: The Adventures of Boob-Lady Do It Yo’self: Pant-abulous Blinds Why Is There A Lack Of Famous Female Painters? The Level Playlist: Roaring Retro
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8 FASHION AND BEAUTY
7 31 32 37
The Level Lookbook: Life’s A Beach
WHAT’S #TRENDING
Why We’re Sick of ‘Plus Size’ Beauty And The Beast: Overrated Products 20 Gorgeous Dresses For Under £20
LOVE AND SEX
22 25 27 35
16
Can You Watch Porn And Still Be A Feminist? Your Vagina Costs More Than Your Phone Bill... The Truth About Commitment Phobes Your Love and Sex Questions: Answered
Girl Up - The new book from Laura Bates, the author of Everyday Sexism. These Rosie the Riveter socks from Sockdrawer are gorgeous and empowering.
LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE
Talent Spotted:
Melly Em Clark
Melly Em Clark is an artist based in Lincoln. She knew her calling was drawing ever since she was a child. Melly graduated in 2013 with a BA (Hons) in Illustration from the University of Lincoln.
Describe yourself in three words
Creative, Introverted and Opinionated!
eating disorders or anxiety - and their sheer strength keeps me going, especially when my anxiety is at its worst. They
Biggest achievement?
Getting through University. During my time at uni, I
prove to me that we can be resilient and strong and face anything, I find it so inspiring.
experienced two counts of family loss, sexual and emotional abuse (and disordered eating as a result) and almost failing academically. Within my third year I managed to pull myself
Wardrobe staple?
As a person on a low income, I need clothes to be as versatile
up to a grade I was happy with, and I’m still in the recovery
as possible. My go-to item is a pinafore dress from Simply Be
process, but I’ve made a lot of progress! So that’s the thing
- it complements so many other items and is so cute!
I’m the most proud of. Describe your ideal day
Favourite holiday destination?
I’ve only ever really holidayed in Scarborough and Edinburgh
I just love hanging out with lovely people - I never really mind
and I love them both! They’re both really interesting places
what we do! Some of the best days of my life have been
for such different reasons. I’m hoping to see Edinburgh again
evenings in or picnics with friends! As long as the company’s
soon as it’s such a beautiful city!
great and there’s some kind of dessert, it’s a pretty great day, so it would probably be something along those lines! If you could be any animal what would you be?
Favourite illustration you’ve drawn?
My piece, ‘You Don’t Need Abs To Be Fab’ was my first body positive illustration, and the response has been incredible.
I would probably choose to be a cat - I love their ‘eff you’
It’s given me so many opportunities and helped me meet
attitude!
so many wonderful people, so it’s a drawing with a lot of sentimental value!
Favourite food?
It’s a cliché, but pizza! Always feels like a naughty decadent treat! I find I enjoy it so much more now I have a healthier selfimage and embrace body positivity.
Favourite quote about feminism?
I think the one that sticks in my mind the most frequently is ‘The truth will set you free, but first it will piss you off’ While Gloria Steinem took this quote from another source;
Biggest inspiration?
I feel it’s so relatable in terms of feminism. Constantly
Many members of my close family and friends have all had
witnessing sexism and prejudice on a daily base isn’t easy
really awful experiences - be it domestic violence, depression,
and I admire all of those who can stand up to it!
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Life’s a Beach The Level Lookbook:
FASHION AND BEAUTY
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3
2
4
5
6
8
7
9
IMAGE SOURCE: PRSHOTS.COM
EDITOR LOVES 10 11 1. Tea Dress, New Look Plus, £14.99. 2. Black Swimsuit, Marks and Spencer, £29.50. 3. Riveria Across Body Bag, Accessorize, £32. 4. Across Body Bag, Accessorize, £29. 5. Sandals, Accessorize, £35. 6. Print Swimsuit, Marks and Spencers, £35. 7. Round Frame Sunglasses, Very, £12. 8. Lemon Across Body Bag, Accessorize, £29. 9. Bikini Set, Accessorize, £30. 10. Blue Stripe Vest, New Look Plus, £8.99. 11. Shoes, Dune, £80. -7-
Understanding
Intersectionality
ILLUSTRATION BY SIAN LARKIN
LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE
Level gives you the lowdown on everything about intersectionality and why it’s so important.
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There are a lot of misconceptions about intersectionality and what it is. It’s only recently that the theory has been given the attention it deserves within mainstream feminism. Emma O’Sullivan, a lecturer at University College London says, “In academia an intersectional approach is now expected in any serious work on social oppression, but in broader social understandings of discrimination and oppression I don’t think that intersectionality is very well known or understood.” It’s important that we, as feminists, understand exactly what intersectionality is and recognise it’s importance. Contrary to popular misconceptions, it isn’t about dividing or excluding people from the feminist movement. In fact, it is about including absolutely everyone and understanding that there are more issues at hand. If we all try and tackle these problems together, we can make the world a more equal and harmonious place for everybody.
What exactly is intersectionality?
Intersectionality is a term first coined by American civil rights advocate, Kimberlé Crenshaw. She introduced the theory in 1989 in her paper, Demarginalizing the Intersection of Race and Sex: A Black Feminist Critique of Antidiscrimination Doctrine, Feminist Theory, and Antiracist Politics. She notes, “Black women sometimes experience discrimination in ways similar to white women’s experiences; sometimes they share very similar experiences with Black men. Yet often they experience double-discrimination – the combined effects of practices with discriminate on the basis of race, and on the basis of sex.” A white woman living in the United Kingdom will experience a different kind of oppression than an Indian woman living in a poverty-stricken area of New Delhi. There are many multi-faceted issues facing women (racism, sexism, classism, xenophobia, ageism, etc.) All of these problems are interlinked and affect one another. Put simply, intersectional feminism recognises that being a woman of colour, disabled, or LGBTQ comes with many more problems and complications than being a privileged middle-class Western white woman.
Why is it important?
Feminism without intersectionality just doesn’t make sense. Feminism is about equality. Excluding women that are of colour, or fat or homosexual, consequently makes feminism a movement that marginalizes some and prioritises others. Emma O’Sullivan says, “Nonintersectional feminism is not real feminism as it only helps a specific subset of women. Non-intersectional feminism is itself exclusionary, as it does not include all women and their experiences.”
A report from the National Coalition of Anti-Violence Programs, found that 72% of anti-LGBTQ homicide is carried out against transgender women, and what is more, 89% of those are women of colour. This shocking statistic proves that intersectional feminism needs to be taken seriously, and be given more attention in the media to promote positive change.
How can we positively practice Intersectionality? Be prepared to learn
Alice Oates, a postgraduate student at Royal Holloway University says, “Educating yourself is a key first step.” We need to accept that there are things we can’t possibly comprehend, and situations that we’ll never (thankfully) experience. However, just because we haven’t been oppressed in the same way as another person, that doesn’t mean we can’t act as if it isn’t an issue. Swallow your pride, be open, and be prepared to learn new things. What might be a reality for you may not be for another.
Take a step back
Without meaning to sound rude, not everything is about you and your experiences. Sometimes it’s better to take a step back and recognise that it’s not always your place to comment on another’s experience if you don’t fully understand what they’ve been through.
Don’t always be defensive
We can’t always be perfect, and we have probably made mistakes in the past, or not been as open-minded as we should have. However that doesn’t mean it’s too late. Criticism is vital to growth and progression. If we aren’t willing to listen to others, then how are we, as feminists, able to grow and make progress? Alice Oates hits the nail on the head, “I think sometimes the feminist community needs to be less defensive and allow itself room to grow and develop in response to critique. If a woman of colour comes to you and says ‘my experience is that being black and being a woman intersect in unique ways to disadvantage me’ and your response is ‘don’t say that you’ll create divisions in the community, you’re distracting from the main issue’, then that’s just another silencing tactic that contributes to inequality.” Intersectionality isn’t just about fighting gender equality; it’s about ending all of the interconnected issues that affect women in a number of different ways. If we recognise these problems, listen to other people’s stories and broaden our way of thinking, then we will help the feminist movement grow stronger than ever. -9-
She is Tumblr’s most talked about feminist illustrator. Level has an exclusive chat with the woman behind the art, Ambivalently Yours.
LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE Ambivalently Yours, who wishes to remain anonymous, is an incredibly talented feminist artist and blogger. She began creating feminist art in 2012, and has since grown a huge following of adoring fans. Her main reason for staying anonymous was due to the fact a lot of the stuff she produced criticized the fashion industry - which also happened to be the same industry she worked for. Her combination of cute-quirky illustrations, pastel colours and empowering feminist captions is what has attracted the attention of so many people over the past few years. With an Instagram account boasting over 27 thousand followers and her own very successful Etsy shop, AY is definitely here to stay. We have a chat with the talented artist about her work, her reasons for staying anonymous and what she does when she’s met with creative block. AY planned for her art to be specifically feminist from day one. Her work was a way for her to express her feelings about feminism and her despair towards the sexist industry that she worked in. “It started at a time where I was studying feminist art in grad school and simultaneously working in the fashion industry, two places that contained a lot of contradictions for me. This project was a way for me to explore those contradictions and explore my feminist ideas from an ambivalent point of view.” AY no longer works in the fashion industry full time, however she does still do contract work as and when she needs extra money. “As much as I’d love to focus all my time on my art, it is very hard to make a living as an artist.” Her biggest inspirations in the art world are Frida Kahlo, Judy Chicago, Sophie Calle and Adrian Piper (all are incredible artists that you should Google straight away.)
“As much as I'd love to focus all my time on my art, it is very hard to make a living as an artist.“ Anonymity adds a sense of mystery AY’s art, it also allows her fans to imagine that she is anyone they want her to be, for example, their best friend, their mother, or their next door neighbour. These beautiful illustrations have brought together a community of feminists that find comfort and strength through her art and the empowering messages they defiantly express. “Ambivalently Yours becomes less of a reflection of my personal self and more of a representation of the ideas behind the work. With anonymity I am exploring ideas of connection through ambiguity and ambivalence.”
Whilst she is anonymous online, it’s not as easy for her to hide her identity in person. “Last year I was given the opportunity to do an artist residency in Glasgow, and part of me really wanted to interact with the people of that city during my trip, which meant that I couldn’t be completely anonymous. I have also hosted feminist workshops in Europe and North America, where revealing my identity was crucial to creating the kind of open and comfortable atmosphere I wanted for the event. Therefore, I’ve decided to be as anonymous as I can online, but to allow myself to take the mask off once in a while when I meet people in real life.” AY doesn’t use fancy tools or equipment to create her art. “All of my drawings start out the old fashioned way, on paper. I usually use cheap ballpoint pens, colour pencils, markers and watercolours. Then I scan my drawings and clean them up and make them all of the same shade of pink using Adobe Photoshop.” Her illustrations take anywhere between 20 minutes and a few hours to produce, funnily enough it’s often the creations that take 20 minutes to draw that are the most successful. “A lot of my work references my own life and is inspired by personal stories, the stories people tell me, the stories I hear, read and watch on TV. I am always most compelled by art that comes from an honest and personal place.”
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When AY is feeling uninspired or met with creative block she stresses the importance of never forcing yourself to create art. “There are days when I can’t draw, because I’m not in the right mood, or I feel uninspired or I’m too
“Inspiration always comes when you're not waiting for it.“ exhausted. So I’ve learned that the best thing to do in those moments is to step away from the art and do something else to clear my head. Inspiration always comes when you’re not waiting for it.” Like any other artist, AY hasn’t had it easy. Reaching out to people, finding a following and staying motivated can be extremely difficult. “Being an artist is really hard. I still get refusals for 90% of the
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things I apply to, I have to work long hours in order to have enough time to make my work and make a living. I am often crippled with self-doubt, and I’m pretty much always exhausted. BUT despite all of that, being an artist is my favourite thing in the world. You just have to brace yourself for the hard times, find ways to deal with the disappointment, and be very very stubborn.” Not only are her illustrations delicate and beautiful, they are insightful, empowering and recognise the problems that women and men face due to the patriarchal society we live in. It is artists like AY, that are paving the way for change. Follow her on Instagram - @ ambilaventlyyours, keep up to date with her art and exciting projects on Tumblr - ambivalentlyyours. tumblr.com and buy her feminist goodies through her Etsy shop. - etsy.com/shop/ambivalentlyyours.
Stay Safe
LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE
ILLUSTRATION BY SIAN LARKIN
Travelling Solo
Level talks to solo female travellers who share their incredible stories and tips for staying safe whilst travelling solo.
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LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE
Travelling alone gives you the opportunity to meet inspiring people, witness incredible events and experience new cultures. There is so much that can’t be taught in a classroom or out of a textbook. When you’re stranded in the middle of a country with a dead phone battery and only ten pounds left in your back pocket, that’s when you really learn how to survive on your own. It may be challenging, but the rewards that come with travelling easily transcend the comfort of staying at home.
“I wanted go with someone else but he never got his act together so I was like, I'll go myself!“ We all have different reasons for wanting to travel alone, whether it’s to gain confidence, meet new people or to have a fresh start. Raphaela Stock, 23 has travelled solo to Berlin and Mexico, “The first time I travelled alone was because I wanted to leave my hometown for a bit - 14 - MAY 2016 - LEVEL
and there was nobody that would have wanted to come with me. I had just come out of a long relationship and it was my first step into freedom, you might say.” Rachael Reed, 22 from Southampton went travelling alone because she wanted to prove people wrong and show everyone that she could do it on her own. “Also, I wanted to meet other solo travellers because a lot of my friends are great, but I didn’t really know anyone who wanted to travel as much as me.” Many of us experience wanderlust, but often we don’t end up going because our friends can’t afford it, or simply don’t want to. Alice Hackett, 22 who went travelling around Austria on her own didn’t let that stop her, “Originally I wanted go with someone else but he never got his act together so I was like, I’m not going to wait for him, I’ve saved up the money, so I’ll go myself! I was nervous but excited at the same time. My main worries were: what if I miss my trains booked? What if I get lost? What if no one understands me?” When you’re travelling the world and meeting new people, it can feel like you have a never-ending list of amazing new friends. However, because you don’t stay in the same place for a long time, you can also wind up feeling completely alone. Rachael Reed has spent the past few years travelling around Thailand, Bali, New Zealand and the whole of Australia; “Sometimes it would be a couple days even a whole week until you
made friends. And in the mean time you sit on Facebook looking at your friends enjoying themselves at home and you think to yourself why am I here. But the good makes up for the bad a thousand times over.” It can be exciting to venture into the unknown, however, it comes with a risk of danger. It’s important to know which areas to stay away from, and what signs to look out for. In July last year a YouGov survey of over 6,700 European residents confirmed that India, Egypt, Turkey, Tunisia and Morocco are the five most dangerous holiday destinations. According to the National Crime Record Bureau, every 20 minutes a woman is raped in India. If you visit India, don’t wear anything that will reveal your legs, upper arms or bust. Arrive at new destinations during the day when it’s light. Local Egyptians are known to pester travellers. If you are harassed in the street to a point where you feel unsafe or uncomfortable, then don’t be quiet about it. Make a scene. Locals and tourists will notice and do what they can to help you. Only use taxis if they’ve been pre-booked, as there have been quite a few reports of taxi drivers assaulting women. Typical British politeness could easily be mistaken for flirting, so it’s best to keep your distance and be aloof with locals.
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Turkey is a beautiful country. If you go to Istanbul or somewhere along the Mediterranean coast then you won’t need to cover up. However, Eastern parts of the country are much more conservative so you should take care of what you’re wearing. Try and refrain from behaviour that may be deemed as flirtatious, a simple smile or handshake to a local Turkish man could be taken the wrong way. Tunisian men don’t normally associate with women until they get married, therefore they don’t really know how to treat women with respect. They seem to believe that Western women will do just about anything if asked. It is fairly likely they will ask you to kiss them or make other seedy requests. Simply ignore them or respond with ‘Harem Alek’, which is Arabic for ‘Shame on you’. If you are assertive and keep your distance, then you will have a great time in these stunning countries. Despite the obvious dangers and risks, travelling is the best way to learn more about yourself and the world around you. If you set off on a solo adventure you will make memories that you’ll cherish forever and meet people that will completely transform your life, for the better. Travelling makes you see the world differently.
Foolproof Tips for Staying Safe Abroad
1 - Research
4 - Blend In
common scams used on tourists, local culture rules, laws and
should adapt your wardrobe choices to fit in. Don’t wear a
the crime rate. Also, learn what may be considered offensive
revealing dress in a country where there are high rates of
behaviour to avoid any confrontation or dangerous situations.
violence or assault against women. To keep muggers away
Read up about the destination before going. Learn about
2 - Choose Hostels
It’s easier to meet new people and make friends in hostels, they have communal living areas and shared dormitories. You’ll find people to go out with during the day and people to party with.
If you’re going to a more conservative country then you
you should look like you know where you’re going, basically, don’t walk around with a massive map in front of your face.
5 - Safety In Numbers
You should avoid walking around alone at night, especially
Make sure you take a padlock with you and store your items in
the non-tourist areas. If you have no other choice, then carry
a locker. You may think you can trust the people you’re staying
pepper spray with you or a rape alarm.
with, but remember they are still strangers.
3 - Check Reviews
6 - Know your Limits
Don’t get so drunk that you can’t judge a situation properly or
Check reviews of the hotel or hostel you’re planning on staying
make important decisions. It’s okay to have a few cocktails,
at before booking. Trip Advisor is a good website for reading
but know your limits. Keep an eye on your drink too, a lot of
honest feedback from other visitors.
men target foreigners and spike their drinks with drugs.
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Zi n e of the Month. . THE ADVENTURES OF BOOB-LADY The Adventures of Boob-Lady is a beautifully crafted and thought-provoking zine that perfectly illustrates the current feminist issues that are prominent within society today.
21-year-old Stella Dixon is an artist based in Newcastle. She is in her second year of studying BA (Hons) Fine Art at Newcastle University. The theme of her work specifically addresses the objectification of women within popular culture. With her use of exaggerated motifs, she has developed a creature whose limbs have been distorted and manipulated to highlight the parts of the female body that are most commonly associated with sexual desire. This freak product of society makes important comments about viewership and the way in which we perceive and respond to the female form. The art-zine itself took no longer than a couple of weeks to complete, however the concept and planning was in the process for many months. There are currently no plans for another zine, but Stella would definitely like to push her work further. Stella performed as ‘Boob Lady’ at the Glasgow International 2016 as part of The Circus Between Worlds event. It brings together an eccentric group of performers and artists that are all on different creative journeys, resulting in a truly original and unique
ARTS AND CRAFTS
performance. Her part involved a three-minute dance in her quirky breast-embellished costume. Stella has also performed in Newcastle, however the work was a durational performance that was solely based around participation. The Adventures of Boob-Lady is a product of society rather than an attack on the way that society views things. It is an understanding of current feminist issues, and her work is raising awareness of the current problems that we, as feminists, face today. Stella’s main creative inspiration whilst growing up was Sarah Lucas, an English artist who graduated from Goldsmiths University in 1987 with a BA (Hons) in Fine Art. Her work has been exhibited in the Saatchi Gallery, Whitechapel Gallery and Tate Gallery. Sarah’s work combines vulgar wit and visual puns, which express her fresh and raw outlook on society. She is part of the generation of Young British Artists who emerged during the 1990s; other well-known artists from this movement are Damien Hurst and Tracey Emin. In the past few years, Stella has gained confidence and developed even more as an artist, thanks to the inspiring work of painter, Sarah Maple and photographer, Juno Calypso. The way in which The Adventures of Boob-Lady takes a body part associated with sexual desire, and transforms it into something perceived in a completely different light is incredibly refreshing. Stella Dixon’s work challenges and recognises the ‘male gaze’ and the detrimental impact it can have on society. Follow her on Instagram - @stella_4_star to keep up to date with her art. You can buy the zine from her Etsy shop - etsy.com/shop/stellamakesart.
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ARTS AND CRAFTS
DO IT YO'SELF: Pant-abulous Blinds
Create beautiful blinds out of up-cycled lacy pants! They’re sure to add a unique touch to the bedroom, bathroom or even the kitchen. Follow our simple and easy 6-step guide.
What you’ll need: pants (preferably lacy brazilians), lace ribbon, scissors, thread, thimble (if required), pins, pin cushion, sewing needle, sewing machine, curtain rod, festoon blind cord, bows
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2
Lay out the pants to cover your window space, make sure the pants are overlapping. Stitch by hand to join all pants together discretely.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARY REEVES
4
3
5
Turn the blind over and thread cords down through each loop (ABCD), tying securely on bottom loop. Leave plenty of length for threading eyelets.
Tack festoon blind cord tape on back with loops evenly placed then machine through all layers and remove tacking. Embellish with bows.
Tack row of lace or ribbon vertically down the blind, one at each then at regular intervals across the blind.
6
Fix up rod and screw in eyelets below so that they are above each ribbon line. Sew excess ribbon from top of blind over rod.
Thread cords through eyelets. Fix rod on to brackets. Fix blinds to preferred window and thread cords accordingly.
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