Spring / Summer 16
www.oki-ni.com
Volume One
10
18
22
www.oki-ni.com
26
30
Contents
38
48
58
Five
62
Volume One
Creative Director Samuel Smith
Head Designer Simon Sherlock
Fashion Writer Emma Davidson
Features Editor Jessica Spires
Fashion Assistant Miles Brown
Contributors Atip W, Jack Johnstone, Lewis Chong, Lou Rolley, Mattias Bjorklund, Nicola Litson, Zena May Hendrick
Colour Reprographics: PH Media, Printing: Logical Connections Publisher: oki-ni
Your Next Order Seen something you like? Get ÂŁ100 off your next order when you spend ÂŁ400 or more. Enter Code: VOLUME1 at the checkout to redeem your discount. Valid on SS16 collections only Ends 14th June 2016 Brand exclusions apply
All items in this publication are available to purchase at oki-ni.com For all general enquiries, please contact us at enquiries@oki-ni.com For press enquiries, contact shawn@oki-ni.com
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in this magazine are those of the contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine.
www.oki-ni.com
Introduction
It’s here – welcome to oki-ni Volume I. What a difference six months makes. Since our last issue, we’ve launched our new, improved, fully responsive website – with its innovative Editorial hub that places all DAILY, MIX SERIES and STYLED content in one easy-to-use space. We’ve been across the world (and back again) – from Seoul to Stockholm via Paris, Copenhagen and Milan, seeking out the most forward-thinking, up-and-coming and cult brands around. We’ve seen the likes of Wooyoungmi, Ganryu, OAMC, White Mountaineering and Eytys join our ranks – and launched the muchhyped debut collection from the one and only YEEZY himself. We think it’s safe to say that, yeah, we’ve kept ourselves busy. So what have we got in store for you within the crisp pages of this issue? As clichéd and bandied-around as the concept is at this time of year, Spring 2016 really is a time for new beginnings.
Refining our aesthetic to reflect our ethos, the pages have been stripped-back to let each feature speak for itself, and the issue is itself a celebration of the season and what we’re excited by. Decide whether you’re an urban cowboy, a space-commuter or a bowling king-pin for SS16 with our trend report (or mix elements from all three for an eclectic look – who are we to judge?) Read interviews with Marni-maestro Consuelo Castiglioni and Mr. Neil Barrett. And find out what’s inspiring some of our favourite designers away from the catwalk, including Christopher Raeburn, Fredrik Nathorst of ALL_BLUES and the guys behind Uniform Wares. Discover our three exclusive editorials, demonstrating what you can expect from oki-ni this season. ESTABLISHED showcases our big boys – the Raf, Rick, Thom and Jil’s of our carefully considered selection (among many more) while UPON COMPLETION provides a look at the finer details in the form of luxurious leather accessories, sunglasses and lifestyle items. And last but by no means least, TOMORROW IS ANOTHER DAY presents a directional look at our sport-luxe offering, featuring stand-out styles from Y-3, CMMN SWDN and Stone Island.
Samuel Smith Creative Director -
Nine
Volume One
Words by Emma Davidson
Fashion Editor: Samuel Smith Photographer: Jack Johnstone Fashion Assistant: Miles Brown Model: Theo George @ Select models Grooming: Elvire Roux
www.oki-ni.com
Styled
Maison Margiela - Suede Blouson Jacket £1,749 Maison Margiela - Quilted T-Shirt £289 CMMN SWDN - Wide-Leg Denim Jeans £183 adidas x Raf Simons - Stan Smith Sneakers £224
Western Denim
Denim looks to the Frontiers of America for SS16, with a subtly perforated motif following the line of a seam here and an understated smattering of metal rivets there. Seen above, CMMN SWDN’s wide-legged jeans are paired with a luxurious, buttery-soft suede jacket from Maison Margiela. Jil Sander gets in on the act too, presenting characteristically pared-back pieces
bearing subtle references to Western styling. Rather than allout embracing the Wild Wild West, the season’s trend nods discreetly to the cowboy – though that’s not to say we’re averse to finishing the look with an authentic bandana tied around the neck (as seen at Raf Simons) if you so wish. After all kid, you’ve got vision – the rest of the world are wearing bifocals.
Eleven
Volume One
The trend that transcends trend; this season it’s all about stripping things back and refining the core items in your wardrobe – your everyday ‘uniform’ if you will. The tailored shirt. The well-cut jeans. The classic sneakers. And what has become every man’s go-to; the cotton sweatshirt. Luckily, these are the things that Paul Smith, Consuelo Castiglioni and Jonny Johannson can do with their eyes shut and their hands behind their backs. Seen here, a cotton t-shirt by Sir Paul is adorned with the bold ant motif that runs throughout the designer’s pre-SS16 collection, while the accompanying Marni trousers offer a laid-back modernity. Acne Studios and OAMC provide the aforementioned sweat that will become like a second-skin, and you should consider Common Projects’ ‘Achilles’ as a finishing touch – the luxurious leather runners are handcrafted in Italy and offer a welcome antithesis to the in-your-face styles of the sneaker hype scene.
Paul Smith - Printed T-Shirt £140 Paul Smith - Relaxed Pleated Trousers £355 Maison Margiela - Low Top Sneakers £409
Contemporary Minimalism
The Trophy Jacket
Valentino - Reversible Embroided Varsity Jacket £1,644 Maison Margiela - Rubber Detail T-Shirt £249 Jil Sander - Tapered Lanyard-Detail Trousers £420 A.P.C. - Casual Sandals £209
A stand-out style for SS16 is the Sukajan – or souvenir jacket, to give them the name that may be more familiar to you (and us too). Traditionally brought back from Japan, Vietnam and Korea by veterans of war, the richly embroidered jackets fuse the artisanal embroidery of the East with Western Varsity-inspired silhouettes. The style seen above is crafted from the finest silk and presented in a muted colour palette by none other than Valentino, with the motif to the rear hand-embroidered in Italy. Alternatively, choose another American staple this season - the coach jacket. Acne Studios offers both plain and printed iterations, whilst Comme des Garçons present a lightweight style bearing the brand’s unmistakable logo detailing to the back.
Thirteen
Tech Luxe
Wooyoungmi - Single-Breasted Overcoat £679 Wooyoungmi - Zip Through Gilet £454 Paul Smith - Metallic T-Shirt £140 OAMC - Relaxed Shorts £241 adidas x Rick Owens - Technical Running Sneakers £369
As sportswear continues to infiltrate the catwalks, allow us to introduce our selection of the most forward-thinking, technically advanced and covetable styles for SS16. Added to the oki-ni lineup is Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 Sport. Pushing the already-innovative designs of Y-3 to their limits, the new line integrates adidas’ patented technologies, for styles that not only look great, but perform amazingly too. Wooyoungmi also touch on the trend, presenting a luxurious vision of the intergalactic commute of the future, as does Christopher Raeburn, whose ‘Borneo / Sarawak’ collection demonstrates his ever-inventive approach to regeneration. Neil Barrett, White Mountaineering and OAMC make up the best of the rest, and whilst we’re on the subject of elevated sportswear, yes, we will be offering further releases of the ever-hyped YEEZY Boost series. Keep your eyes peeled. www.oki-ni.com
Styled
CMMN SWDN - Bowling Shirt £169 Raf Simons - Casual Trousers £327 Uniform Wares - Leather Strap Watch £400
Did your mind immediately wander to The Big Lebowski upon reading the words ‘bowling shirts’? Ours too. Now, however, would be the time to cast that particular notion aside. We’re not talking the garish, synthetic ones favoured when hitting the lanes. Instead, for SS16 the look is refined, luxurious even. It’s crisp cotton and wide sleeves from Acne Studios and casual sloganbearing styles from CMMN SWDN (with matching shorts, might we added). Jil Sander introduces typically offbeat elements with the addition of unique vinyl patches and pocket detailing. Also seen at Valentino and Matthew Miller, the short-sleeved shirt proves the perfect partner to this season’s wide-legged trousers – but we’ll talk more about those later…
Bowling Shirts
Volume One
OAMC - Printed T-Shirt £129 Raf Simons - Hooded Jacket £571 Christopher Raeburn - Wide-Leg Trousers £174 Adieu - Leather Sandals £289
Though trousers have gradually begun to widen after years of slim-legged and restrictive styles, this season the volume has been well and truly turned up to eleven. Marni and Raf Simons offer high-rise, wide-leg styles that are refreshingly modern and clean, as CMMN SWDN and Gosha Rubchinskiy both present the straight-cut, easy-to-wear ‘dad’ jeans that feel so now. And it’s not just trousers that have gone supersized for SS16; Christopher Raeburn’s REMADE series re-appropriates original army parachutes into billowing overcoats, Raf’s hooded denim jackets come boxy and round-shouldered, while Acne provides relaxed iterations of another of the season’s key trends – the short-sleeved, wide-collar shirt.
Relaxed Fit
Prints If you’ve shied away from print in the past, SS16 feels like it might just be the time to give it a go. The season’s motifs range from the skewed graphic lines of Neil Barrett’s neoprene sweatshirts to Acne’s muted Himalayan Tiger offering. Be brave and choose a matching ensemble – Valentino’s exotic bird-printed shirt and shorts pack a powerful punch, but when worn with a white cotton t-shirt underneath the finished result is clean and contemporary as opposed to ostentatious. Or, if that feels a bit too much, flashing one of the Italian brand’s luxurious leather wallets as a finishing touch is just as effective – just remember: confidence is key to this particular look.
Neil Barrett - Neoprene Printed Sweatshirt £315 Jil Sander - Shorts With Belt Detailing £440
Seventeen
Volume One
oki-ni meets Neil Barrett
Words by Emma Davidson www.oki-ni.com
Feature
Neil Barrett requires very little by way of introduction. Launching his eponymous line in 1999 following an eleven-year tenure at Prada – where he was integral to the launch of the brand’s menswear collection – the Milan-based designer has become something of a household name. Born in Devon, England with two generations of master tailors before him, Barrett’s contemporary take on traditional construction and athletic sensibilities have seen his star rise and brought with it a legion of fans. Long-term supporters including Brad Pitt, Ewan Macgregor and Jake Gyllenhaal have made way for a fresh new wave of young talent; notably Future, Zayn Malik and Justin Bieber, whose Neil Barrett neoprene sweatshirt was arguably one of the most instantly recognisable designs featured in the recent (and brand-heavy) Zoolander 2 movie. Where previous collections have referenced Western iconography in the form of classical Roman sculpture and iconic American landmarks – albeit ones skewed and distorted beyond recognition – this season, Barrett looks to the East. Palestine and the handcrafted textiles woven there provide inspiration, and from further afield, his clean lines and simplistic silhouettes are rendered in Japanese denim of the highest quality. The sweatshirts, bombers and sweatpants he’s known for make way for an altogether sharper silhouette - as Neil himself puts it, “potential future classics”. In preparation for the launch of Volume I, we sat down with the designer himself to discuss his influences, inspiration and how fashion is progressing at breakneck speed.
Nineteen
Volume One
Can you talk us through the new collection Neil, what drew you to the East for SS16? Each season I re-work the staples of the contemporary man’s wardrobe, tweaking classic pieces to make them relevant today. Menswear archetypes typically draw from Western culture – from quintessential British tailoring to American workwear – so I decided to celebrate something different entirely this season; a ‘global’ masculinity. Taking decorative patterns and diverse styles of male dress from across the world, it felt fresh and challenging to remix those conventional aesthetics and create a universal hybrid. What do you feel are the stand-out pieces from the collection this season? The manipulated Keffiyeh-inspired camouflage motif is at the core of the SS16 collection. It’s seen across tailoring and Varsityesque silhouettes and to me exemplifies the idea of globalism that I was trying to achieve – so anything bearing that would be key for me. Talking of print, your motifs are a key element within each collection but are often skewed and distorted. Can you tell us a little about the print process and development? Well, I realised that I wear very little colour – and in fact that very few people around me do – so it felt quite natural for me to introduce prints, to create the distinctive designs that have become a trademark in my collections. I like to start with something recognisable and subvert it beyond recognition. You’ve mentioned previously that we’ll never see a ‘Neil Barrett’ logo within your collections, but the geometric triangle motifs that run through each season’s offering are so distinctively ‘yours’ anyway they seem to act in a logo’s place – was this your intention? It was and it wasn’t. I don’t like logos and I came to the conclusion that my customer doesn’t like them either. So I tried to create a distinctive motif that was visually striking and recognisable at once, something that could become a signature to the brand. Since 2012, the ‘Modernist’ theme has appeared in every collection under a new guise each season.
Neil Barrett - Neoprene Printed Sweatshirt £295
www.oki-ni.com
Feature
You’re known as a pioneer of the luxury sportswear aesthetic that’s currently prevalent in fashion. How has your time as creative director at Puma informed your subsequent collections and built upon your background in traditional tailoring methods? I think one experience informs the other. In fact, I introduced athletic elements in the collections during my years at Prada there, to be precise, the sports elements were mostly related to the technical fabrications. When I started my own label I took everything I had learnt on board and I tried to create clothes that I really wanted to wear, fashion that could exist outside the runway. As a whole, how has fashion changed since your early days in the industry? It has changed drastically over the past few years with the rise of the digital mediums; Facebook, Twitter, Instagram particularly. Fashion has become a ‘thing’ and people are more and more conscious about what is going on in our industry - whether they actually consume high-end fashion or not. For sure such accessibility is now re-shaping the industry and ultimately brands will need to adapt to remain successful. Finally, your uncomplicated design ethos is reflected in the architecturally innovative Neil Barrett stores around the world. oki-ni’s HQ is actually based next to their designer Zaha Hadid’s East London showroom. How did your partnership begin? I’ve known Zaha for many years and back when I opened my first store in Tokyo I had no doubt she was the one to take on the job. Within each store she has created a concept that allows the customer to experience the collections within a space which is linear and sinuous at once. Neil Barrett’s SS16 collection is now available to shop online at www.oki-ni.com
Neil Barrett - Graphic Printed T-Shirt £315 Neil Barrett - Graphic Printed Shorts £295
Twenty / One
Volume One
Words by Emma Davidson We speak to the designers behind some of our best-loved brands – OAMC, Uniform Wares, ALL_BLUES and Christopher Raeburn – as they reveal what’s inspiring, exciting and informing them right now.
Narcissa Chamberlain - The Omelette Book
Fredrik Nathorst, ALL_BLUES Oda Jaune’s Masks is one of the most complete publications I’ve come across. Oda portrays morphed human bodies through phenomenal paintings and the book itself is perfectly executed – from the choice of material and hierarchy to typography and clarity. To me it emphasises the impact a multidisciplinary approach can have. I was looking for breakfast recipes in Narcissa Chamberlain’s The Omelette Book. Instead, I ended up making eggshells and yolks in sterling silver for AW16. The Monochrome Symphony is an excellently-curated exhibition at Artipelag, an art gallery situated on the Stockholm Archipelago. It touches upon the subject of visual expression whilst limiting colours to just one. I related to the exhibition since jewellery often has the same pre-requisites. If you’re in Stockholm, go!
Ricardo Bofill
Oda Jaune’s Masks
I recently saw a short film about the home and workplace of Ricardo Bofill, whose aesthetic - and view on aesthetic in general - is a big influence on our new retail concept, a space I am currently developing with multi-disciplined Swedish designer Christian Halleröd. I’ve also been reading a great monography on the works of Japanese sculptor Isamu Noguchi. I am now preparing the next collection which will have a more sculptural approach than our previous ones – influenced in no small part by Noguchi’s work.
www.oki-ni.com
Feature
David Chipperfield
I recently came across Super Duper’s re-interpretation of the classic snap-back cap. I love products that reference staple styles but have been edited in some way to re-appropriate their use. Crafted from suede for an elevated, luxurious finish, I love that the cap retains its original plastic snapback – a nod to its original understated origins.
Oliver, Uniform Wares
Whilst in Paris recently, I took time away from our showspace to visit the Louvre. Amongst all the pomp and grandeur of the recognisable paintings on show was this piece entitled ‘The Young Martyr’ by Paul Delaroche. Positioned in an unassuming part of the museum, it provided a moment of calm away from the crowds trying to catch a glimpse of the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo.
I’ve always admired the industrial work of Konstantin Grcic. I have framed a quote from Grcic at home which reads “Design must be for real people, not abstract market entities” and it’s something I consider when designing myself. British designer Matthew Miller’s design philosophy describes fashion as a product. It’s about material and construction and the production process itself. As a designer I’m drawn to this approach and was particularly struck by his SS16 collection – paper-like fabrics that were in fact cotton double-bonded with metal alloy were demonstrative of his unique approach to his craft. Lovely stuff. And this list wouldn’t be complete without a watch! In an industry that takes itself a little seriously, I was pleased to see the launch of this piece by revered Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. It’s a deliberate stab at the big boys yet it emphasises the beauty and craft of traditional watchmaking that some say may be threatened by the rise of wearable tech. The jury’s out.
Matthew Miller
H. Moser & Cie
Patrick, Uniform Wares
Tucked away underneath The Line Hotel in Los Angeles is Break Room 86. This discreet karaoke bar in K-Town is accessed firstly by going through the loading bay at the back of The Line and then by clambering through a vending machine next to the laundry service. An inspired night out, well mixed drinks and 80s music in abundance. Go! A Place To Be was aired on BBC 2 in October 2015 and captivated me - I’m familiar with David Chipperfield’s commercial architecture and profile projects as I used to make models for his firm when I first moved to London. His summer house on the coastal town of Corrubedo, Northern Spain was the most impressive. Subtly slotted between two traditional buildings on the seafront of this very suburban town, the 60s design is a very honest form of architecture. I was recently impressed by a Discommon Goods bottle opener by Santa Barbara-based CNC maestro Neil Feay. It is such a tactile piece of design - the Swedish Damascus coin underneath is an inspired choice of material. I won’t nerd out about how it is made, but it’s truly an amazing process.
Twenty / Three
Volume One
Luke Meier, OAMC
Le Verre Volé is neighbourhood restaurant that never disappoints. The utilisation of kitchen space is impressive and they offer a thorough and considered Jura wine selection. I was lucky enough to have been taken to a little-known sushi spot in Ginza, Tokyo last year. I can’t remember the name as it was unmarked and had no sign or business cards. With only six seats, the master sushi chef was only 28 years old at the time and his skill and precision was impressive. The Blade Runner entrance is a nice touch. Stretch & Bobbito’s documentary Radio That Changed Lives reminds me of a special time in NYC pre-internet. Another vehicle of information delivery, the vision and creativity of these guys was remarkable.
La Maison de Verre
My eternal inspiration is my wife Lucie and to see her and Serge Ruffieux’s first haute couture show for Dior at the spring 2016 shows was an experience I will never forget.
The Cabanon - Le Corbusier
I visited Tanzania a few years ago and the trip was remarkable. The mechanisms of survival and protection were striking and became an inspiration for the OAMC SS16 collection.
Paris’s La Maison de Verre provides inspiration through its innovative texture and unconventional shape. A masterwork of Pierre Chareau, Bernard Bijvoet and Louis Dalbet, I visit often. Pamela Rosenkranz’s installation at the Swiss Pavilion during the most recent Biennale in Venice was wonderful. Colour, space and sound were expertly combined.
www.oki-ni.com
Stretch & Bobbito
Eileen Gray and Le Corbusier’s work has been influential on many levels throughout my career. To see the both E-1027 and Le Corbusier’s studio and villa in Roquebrune Cap-Moderne was a powerful experience last summer. Le Corbusier lived in 9 square meters! It really altered my perception of necessity and space.
Feature
Tom Harrisson
Christopher Raeburn
The Horniman Museum
The Horniman Museum in Forest Hill is one of London’s true hidden gems - with an ever-changing gallery space, aquarium and taxidermy exhibits, it’s been a constant inspiration throughout the growth of Christopher Raeburn. I always work closely with Régis Tosetti on all of my brand’s communications. L’Art de la Chasse is a beautifully photographed book that he put together at university, featuring his own madeup animal. The Snoopy books make me happy on such a basic level. It’s important to have a sense of humour and not get caught up in taking everything seriously in this industry. Dia: Beacon
Whenever I’m in New York, I make sure I visit the Dia:Beacon gallery. I love that it’s housed in an old biscuit factory - you would never know everything has been completely re-appropriated and there are so many different textures and qualities to take in. I also love to run in NYC. I’ll go from Manhattan, over the Brooklyn Bridge. So much to take in along the way. For SS16 we focused our collection around Borneo, and were particularly inspired by Tom Harrisson – an anthropologist who spent much of his life studying the indigenous people of Sarawak in the 1930s and 40s.
Twenty / Five
Volume One
Consuelo Castiglioni reflects on the Marni man Words by Lewis Chong
www.oki-ni.com
Feature
If you boil down a Marni menswear collection, reducing it to its base ingredients, you will always arrive at colour, cloth and cut. Which seems obvious enough when you’re dealing with clothes, but here, these fundamentals have been canonised, becoming the elemental particles of everything produced. The cloth is obsessively developed—shaved nutria, spongy technical jerseys, flannels glazed—the colours entirely singular and the cuts more narrative than tailoring. Though three nouns does not a fashion house make, especially one with such an extraordinary following as this. The womenswear collection debuted in 1994, menswear eight years later. But the pair are in safe hands. Accurate craftsmanship aside, it is the role of founder and creative director Consuelo Castiglioni to supply the substance, the off-hand spirit, and this she delivers on each season as the maison’s guiding light. “I imagine the Marni man and woman coming from the same free-spirited, elegant, world,” Castiglioni told us exclusively, “and humorous. They are people who understand our uncommon sense of luxury.” Without any formal fashion training Castiglioni has turned the brand into one of the most creatively stirring in the world. Perhaps it is her artistic eye or a heightened sensitivity to beauty, the things the Marni-attuned individual will appreciate. Whatever it is, she has loads of it.
Autumn/Winter 2015 saw the debut of Marni’s first womenswear campaign. It was styled by British Vogue’s fashion director Lucinda Chambers and photographed by Jackie Nickerson. Fun fact: Mr. Kanye West also enlisted the Anglo-American artist to capture his Yeezy look books. Jackie Nickerson is respected for her beautiful photojournalistic studies of identity, its constructs, and the environments where it develops; the effects of place on persona. She finds powerful pith in the everyday faces of the unseen and overlooked, like the inhabitants of Catholic institutes in Ireland or Africa’s agricultural workers.
Twenty / Seven
Volume One
Marni - Lightweight Coat £729 Beneath all the layers he squirrels away under a fantastic coat, he is reliably idiosyncratic. “He has a strong personality and sensitivity. He experiments, is attentive to detail. Think eccentricity, but a ‘normal’, grounded eccentricity,” explains Castiglioni. “He is someone who has a taste for the formal and traditional codes of the male wardrobe, but interprets them with fun, twisting them according to his own personality.” For summer, you can see this in utilitarian tailored coats worn with athletic shorts and Fussbett sandals, or how collars are elongated in an almost ironic way. He is also curious. A culture hoarder. If he wasn’t fictional and could actually own a coffee table, it would be piled high with reference books on Robert Rauschenberg, Isa Genzken, Richard Prince and all his other favourite artists. Many of who have collaborated on the prints for the collections.
Marni - Abstract Printed Shirt £309
www.oki-ni.com
Marni - Colour-Blocked Sweatshirt £259
The Italian brand too is all about the exploration of personality. The clothing equivalent of a therapy session. Collaborating with Nickerson was a stroke of genius, a proper meeting of minds. The sprawling, stretching, slightly subversive stills lay it out plainly for all to see. It is one of the best campaigns produced in a long while, and let us not forget that the Marni man is a strong outsider himself, a resident of the fringes, however fanciful those fringes might be.
Feature
This season that spotlight falls on Jack Davidson, the Scottish artist who creates his works out of his studio in Barcelona. His central figure is color. Tonal memos scribbled down in response to the mad world around him. Forms are abstract, lines clean, colors jarring. Shocks of absinthe green on fleshy pink; rust against gingery yellow; powdered blue and clementine. “Working with my team, we go through a lot of different ideas. In this process Jack Davidson’s works came up and I was immediately fascinated by his bold use of colors and his abstract subjects, geometric yet naïve.” Davidson’s work cameos on compact jersey T-shirts and shirts, sometimes alone, sometimes combining two paintings altogether. His undefined shapes also seem to have influenced the iconic Marni floral, as this season the ever-present blooms appear amorphous, almost bacterial, its boundaries less defined when printed on the classic cotton button-up. Like Davidson, Castiglioni too is impelled by color. Marni is an exercise in the possibilities of it, after all. “To me the use of color is crucial. I have never liked a total black look, instead I find inspiration in the way color combinations can create something wonderful, strong and unseen,” she assures. “Defining them is a natural process to me.” That process is, as Sly and the Family Stone put it, a family affair. Carolina Castiglioni, director of special projects, is integral to the process. She is the lens to Consuelo’s eye. “My daughter Carolina helps me in deciding on all artists, we work together a lot. I always keep an eye on what is happening in the art world, especially when I’m travelling. Sometimes the mood of the collection reminds me about something that I have seen before, and that could fit perfectly. Otherwise, sometimes it is art that inspires me in creating the collection.” Castiglioni is both artist and patron, instead of commissioning artwork to hang on the walls of an exhibition space, they are designed into a collection that she conducts like one. It is the pursuit of it all, the creative chase, which inspires and influences constantly. “I am always looking for the next artist to collaborate with, either well-established or new on the scene,” Castiglioni concludes. “I hope all my clothes can be described as wearable art. I like experimenting and mixing different worlds, but my goal is to always create something that can be worn in everyday life. That is the biggest luxury”
Twenty / Nine
Volume One
Stylist: Lucy Ellis Photographer: Lou Rolley Photography Assistant: David Farago Model: Max Townsend @ Elite models Grooming: Elvire Roux
www.oki-ni.com
Marni
Lightweight Coat £729 Abstract Printed Shirt £309
Stripe-Detailed Shorts £309 Mid-Top Running Sneakers £384
Raf Simons
Eyelet and Zip-Detail Coat £1,605 Contrasting Knit Sweater £333
Oversized Trousers £648 Stan Smith Sneakers £224
Styled
Wooyoungmi Reversible Textured Bomber £604 Mesh Layering Gilet £379 Collar Stitch-Detail Shirt £299 Tape-Detail Chinos £274 Lanvin Suede Running Sneakers £355
Thirty / Three
Volume One
Neil Barrett Graphic Printed Sweatshirt £315 Graphic Printed Shorts £295
www.oki-ni.com
Christopher Raeburn
Lightweight Mac £394 Borneo Map T-Shirt £74 Lightweight Trousers £174
CDG Shirt x Spalwart
Suede Sneakers £155
Paul Smith
Single-Breasted Jacket £845 Face Print Sweatshirt £195
Skinny-Fit Trousers £355 Creeper Shoes £350
Styled
Jil Sander Denim Patchwork Shirt £420 Long-Sleeved T-Shirt £80 Cropped Denim Patchwork Jeans £280 Lanvin Painted Running Sneakers £435
Thirty / Seven
Photographer: Nicola Litson Set Design: Zena May Hendrick Art Direction: Samuel Smith
Lanvin - Painted Running Sneakers £435 Y-3 - Lightning Kohna Sneakers £199 Acne Studios - Leather Adrian Sneakers £250 Volume One
Styled
www.oki-ni.com
Dr. Jackson’s 05 Face and Eye Essence £85 04 Coconut Melt Balm £10 01 Day Skin Cream 50ml £80 Grown Alchemist Geranium Leaf, Bergamot & Patchouli Cleansing Bar £15 Pink Grapefruit & Glucomannan Facial Polish £40 Camellia & Geranium Blossom Hydra-Repair Day Cream £29
Forty / One
Volume One
Linda Farrow - Gold-Plated Wayfarer Sunglasses £465 Acne Studios - Frame A Sunglasses £230 Illesteva - Marbled Leonard Sunglasses £140 Cutler and Gross - 1085 Aviator Sunglasses £390
Styled
www.oki-ni.com
CDG Wallet - Blue Luxury Leather Wallet £226 Lanvin - Navy Textured Leather Cardholder £195 CDG Wallet - Blue Leather Cardholder £59 Paul Smith No.9 Orange Embossed Wallet £150 Brown Embossed Cardholder £110
Forty / Five
Volume One
Lanvin - Leather Hiking Sandals £395 OAMC - Green and Blue Marathon Sneakers £388 Y-3 - Printed QASA High Sneakers £269
Styled
Volume One
Stylist: Atip W Photographer: Mattias Bjorklund Groomer: Andjelka using Bobbi Brown and Bumble & Bumble Casting Director: Sarah Bunter @ Buntercasting Model: Jan P @ Tomorrow Is Another Day
Styled
Neil Barrett - Lightning Bolt Sweatshirt £370 Christopher Raeburn - REMADE Woven Bomber £494
Volume One
Our Legacy - Reversible Bomber £270 CMMN SWDN - Short-Sleeved Sweater £183 Porter - 80th Anniversary Helmet Bag £245
Jil Sander - Water Repellent Coat £880 Christopher Raeburn - REMADE Woven Sweatshirt £294 Neil Barrett - Biker-Detail Sweatpants £380 Y-3 - Kyujo High-Top Sneakers £275
Volume One
Previous Page Rick Owens - Suede Flight Jacket £1,430 Y-3 - Striped Cotton T-Shirt £84 and Oversized Shorts £324 adidas Originals - XNO Leggings £59 Y-3 - Kyujo High-Top Sneakers £266 CMMN SWDN - Satin Bomber Jacket £392 Y-3 - Striped Cotton T-Shirt (as before)
Wooyoungmi - Grosgrain Strap-Detail Bomber £679 Christopher Raeburn - Cork Backpack £474 Jil Sander - Water Repellent Jacket £880 Christopher Raeburn - REMADE Woven Sweatshirt £294 CMMN SWDN - Short Sleeved Shirt £169
Styled
Stone Island - Lightweight Jacket £495 Y-3 - Three-Stripe Track Pants £184 Stone Island – Garment-Dyed Down Overshirt £295
Volume One
Words by Jessica Spires Images courtesy of Dr. Jackson’s
You know the deal by now. There are so many skincare brands around claiming to use natural products and contain miracle ingredients that it’s pretty easy to be sceptical about what’s out there. With Dr Jackson’s, we think we might be on to something a little different. Dr Simon Jackson is a certified Pharmacognosist – which is similar to a pharmacologist, only restricted to the study of naturallyderived medicines rather than chemical-based ones. Before starting the skincare line in 2008, he completed his PhD at King’s College London before completing a post-graduate research program at Kew Royal Botanical Gardens.
He’s spent the past two decades travelling across the globe studying natural remedies. His work has taken him from Europe and the Amazon to Indonesia to Sub-Saharan Africa, all in the name of sourcing and testing ingredients – working with indigenous people and plants of each area and learning as much as he can from them. Jackson isn’t alone in this endeavour. He collaborates with the best formulation scientists and research teams in order to create the perfect mixture for his naturally-formulated skincare. It’s all very well and good telling us these things are beneficial to us, but why and how? Dr Jackson reveals some of the key ingredients that feature in the range, and explains exactly what they do.
www.oki-ni.com
Feature
Marula “Marula is a fruit that has traditionally been used for food in Africa. However, its main traditional use has been in protecting skin and hair from the harsh and dry weather of southern Africa. Marula oil (extracted from the kernels of the Marula) is rich in antioxidants, nutrients and fatty acids. It’s non-irritating, and recent research has supported its moisturising properties due it preventing water loss from the skin. We use Marula oil in our 01, 03, 05 and Baobab & Rose Massage Oil.”
Roman Chamomile
“Roman Chamomile has been used for centuries in Europe as a soothing, relaxing oil for both body and mind. Traditionally, it’s used to help reduce inflammation of the skin from cuts and to help with eczema and gingivitis. It can also help with reducing the appearance of scars. We use the oil extracted from the chamomile flowers in our 01, 03 Face Oil, 05 Face & Eye Essence and 07 Face Wash.”
Dr. Jackson’s - 03 Face Oil from £30
Fifty / Nine
Volume One
Kigelia “I first discovered Kigelia as a student of King’s College London, and spent 3 years studying this species for my PhD. With my research team, I isolated two chemical compounds from the fruit and realised their potential in the treatment of malignant melanoma and solar keratosis. “The extracts have so many potential commercial applications which is what makes this ingredient so special. These applications could include sun creams, anti-eczema, anti-malarial agent and even after-sun lotions. “Traditionally, natives have been using it both medicinally and non-medicinally. Medicinally, Kigelia has a history of being used as a dressing of wounds, a poultice for syphilis and rheumatism, and as an infusion of bark and fruits to treat stomach pains and pneumonia.
Dr. Jackson’s - 05 Face and Eye Essence £85
“Non-medicinally, Kigelia has been used to ferment and flavour traditional African beer. However, most traditional uses are for skin application: local woman of the Zambezi valley apply fruit preparations to their faces to maintain blemish-free complexion. “When I was developing my skincare range, I spent time developing the perfect Kigelia extract: one which would capture and keep all the active components of Kigelia. We use this extract in all products, except in the Coconut Melt, 03 Face Oil and Baobab & Rose Oil. We use Kigelia because of its skin tightening and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as to even skin tone and to ensure a blemish-free skin.”
www.oki-ni.com
Feature
Dr. Jackson’s - 01 Day Skin Cream £80 Dr. Jackson’s - 02 Night Skin Cream £80
“I discovered the baobab fruit as a student of African medicinal plants. The baobab is a very special ingredient as every part of the plant has been used for centuries as either medicine or food in Africa! Also known as “the tree of life”, the nutritional value of this species adds to its uniqueness. The pulp and seeds are high in iron, calcium and vitamin C. The leaves are rich in vitamin C, sugar and potassium tartrate. “There are many reported traditional uses of baobab across Africa. They use all parts of the tree for food and medicine: leaves, bark and fruit. The bark has been used to alleviate colds, fevers and flu. The leaves have been used to protect against fever, kidney and bladder diseases. The fruit pulp has been used against fever, diarrhoea, dysentery, small pox, measles and as a painkiller. The roots can even be cooked and eaten. Most countries in Africa will have its own traditional use of baobab.
Baobab
“In Dr Jackson’s skincare range, we use the oil which is pressed and extracted from the small kidney-shaped seeds in all our products (except for the 04 Coconut Melt). Many studies have shown that the oil helps with skin cell regeneration as well as with toning, tightening and moisturising of the skin. Not only are the fatty oils very powerful moisturisers, they also have soothing and anti-inflammatory effects which makes them perfect for dry skin. In our Expedition Tea, we use the fruit fibres (funicles) which are very nutritionally rich.”
Sixty / One
Volume One
Since being founded in 2010, the oki-ni MIX SERIES has featured over 250 mixes from a range of DJs, producers and musicians from across the globe. Over the past five years we’ve been lucky enough to work with industry icons including Mike Skinner, Graham Coxon and Andrew Weatherall, which is pretty exciting. But equally exciting are the emerging artists that we’ve championed since the start of the series. We’ve watched the careers of Laurel Halo, Ryan Hemsworth and Jacques Greene – all MIX SERIES alumni - grow with the play counts of our mixes. Profiling new, cutting-edge artists will always be an important part of the series, and 2016 is no different. We got to know some of this year’s London-based mix series participants by asking them the really important questions – like which emoji do you use most? All of the artists featured have created – or will create – a mix for the series in 2016. To listen, head to editorial.oki-ni.com.
Words by Jessica Spires
www.oki-ni.com
2015 was a big year for North West London-based producer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Georgia. After spending time studying music at SOAS, working in Rough Trade, and playing drums for Kwes and Kate Tempest, Georgia signed to Domino records, released her eponymous debut LP and went on tour with Hot Chip. Phew. What does her music sound like? Incorporating elements of 00’s grime, dub and R&B, it’s about as diverse as the city she comes from. And if you’re in any doubt about just how much she uses the fist pump emoji, then check her Twitter page @georgia_hb. What fashion trend would like to see gone in 2016?
StayBless
I’m not really one for fashion trends full stop. But if I had to see one go, I guess it would be the whole trousers tucked in socks with Nike Air Max thing. It kinda tickles me, I don’t know why. Britney or Christina? It would have to be Britney because I was a big fan of her music; I went to see her play at Wembley back in 2000 and it was such an exciting show. What’s your most-used emoji? The fist pump. Where’s your favourite place to go in London? Somewhere along the river for a walk because I love being by water – seeing London that way, watching all of the boats go by. Or Rough Trade West record shop.
George Cassavetes’ blissful, R&B-tinged pop might make you think that he doesn’t have a care in the world. But when the London-based songwriter produced a mix for us earlier this year, he explored the central theme of his latest EP Be Good to Yourself – the search for positivity and hope in an increasingly isolating world. Be Good To Yourself is the third EP release from Cassavetes, following up from 2013’s Faded, which was produced with power-couple Dev Hynes (Blood Orange) and former Friends frontwoman Samantha Urbani.
Georgia
What’s the one piece of clothing you couldn’t live without? Sunglasses and Advil. Do you have a favourite record label? TDE have put out some of my favourite and most forward thinking albums in recent times by Kendrick Lamar, Jay Rock, Ab-Soul, SZA and Isaiah Rashad. Kanye or Drake? Kanye - he’s just on another level in terms of what’s he’s trying to achieve. Which social network should we follow you on? You can follow me on Soundcloud - it’s my preferred way of communicating. What was the last book you read? I just finished “Between the World and Me” by Ta-Nehisi Coates. It’s powerful, poetic and vital.”
Oscar Seb Wildblood
When self-confessed modern gentleman Oscar Scheller isn’t kissing under the Eiffel Tower, he’s making incredible bedroompop which has earned him a spot at Wichita Records – one of the UK’s most-revered indie labels. The son of a first-wave rave producer, Scheller was reaching for the piano keys at a young age, and then eventually moved on to the guitar. Citing The Radio Dept. as an early influence, it’s clear where his lo-fi sound originates from, yet it’s artfully intertwined with hip-hop inspired beats and his characteristic baritone vocals. After releasing several teaser EPs last year, Oscar’s debut is due for release in 2016, and we can’t wait. How would you describe your own style? I would call it pop-art modern gentleman. What’s on your stereo (or Spotify) right now?
Producer and DJ Seb Wildblood is the man behind Church, the South London based label and club-night bringing a new generation of electronic artists to our attention. Whilst the label’s following has grown - earning support from established names like Galcher Lustwerk and Move D – Seb has been busy carving out his own sound within the electronic landscape.
Jeremih’s Late Nights: The Album.
2015 was a busy one for the producer, as he released two EPs – Foreign Parts and Submarine, and this year you can look forward to a limited-edition cassette and a self-released 4 track EP.
What’s your favourite app?
What was the last piece of clothing you bought?
Who was the last person you kissed?
I actually just visited the Scottish Highlands for a weekend of soul cleansing. I was really ill-prepared so I had to buy a fleece and some gloves to tide me over. But I’m still wearing the fleece back in London, never thought I’d be a fleece kinda guy… but I’m not looking back.
Can’t say who, but it was in front of the Eiffel Tower ;)
What’s your favourite album of 2016 so far? We’re pretty fresh into 2016, but from last year I particularly enjoyed Suzanne Kraft’s LP on Music from Memory and Hunee’s Hunch Music. We’re releasing an album on Church from Ishmael in a couple of weeks too, one to look out for. Who would you list as your ones to watch for 2016? There are too many to mention. However two artists I think are going to have extremely big years are my guys Mall Grab and Laurence Guy. If you weren’t a musician, what would you be doing now? My mums a chef, so I’d like to think I’d like to think I’d have gone down that route. When I have time to cook I find it very relaxing, not that I’m any good…
1D or Justin Bieber? Justin Bieber’s new stuff BANGS so I’m gonna say Biebs (FYI I wore that Nirvana tee 3 years before him).
Vine, all day every day.
Neil Barrett Nike OAMC Officine Creative Officine General Our Legacy Paul Smith Porter Puma Raf Simons Reebok Retaw Rick Owens Rick Owens DRKSHDW
Acne Studios Adidas By Kolor Adidas By Raf Simons Adidas By Rick Owens Adidas Originals Adieu All Blues Ami A.P.C. Ayame
Saturdays Surf NYC Shoes Like Potttery Spalwart Stone Island Stone Island Shadow Project Stutterheim Sunspel Thierry Lasry Thom Browne Thom Krom Tom Wood
Bonastre Uniform Wares C6 Canada Goose Casio Christopher Raeburn CMMN SWDN Common Projects COMME Des GARCONS Shirt COMME Des GARCONS Wallet Cote Et Ciel Cutler And Gross Denis Music Dries Van Noten Dr. Jackson’s Dr Martens
Valentino Vans Vault Yeezy Yves Salomon WANT Les Essentiels White Mountaineering Wooyoungmi Y-3 288
Edwin Etiquette Clothiers Eytys Filling Pieces Ganryu Gosha Rubchinskiy Helmut Lang Illesteva Jil Sander Lanvin Levi’s Vintage Clothing Linda Farrow Maison Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Miller MELINDAGLOSS Mykita Miansai
Keep up to date with oki-ni.
Follow us on our social channels, and discover inspiring content at editorial.oki-ni.com.
Twitter Instagram Mixcloud Facebook Pinterest
@okini @okiniofficial @okini okini okini
Volume One
www.oki-ni.com