Volume Two Autumn / Winter 16
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589B1 CREW NECK KNIT IN BRUSHED EFFECT LIGHTWEIGHT WOOL. INTARSIA COLOUR BLOCK EFFECT CREATED WITH DOUBLE BICOLOUR THREAD. RIBBED NECKLINE, CUFFS AND BOTTOM HEM.
10112 NYLON METAL OVER SHIRT IN NYLON METAL DOUBLED INSIDE IN JERSEY. THE TRILOBATE STRUCTURE OF THE NYLON YARN, WITH ITS GREY WEFT AND WHITE READY TO DYE WARP COLOURS, IS THE GROUNDS OF THE DISTINCTIVE METALLIC AND IRIDESCENT SHEEN OF NYLON METAL. THE FINISHED PIECE UNDERGOES AN ELABORATE DOUBLE DYE PROCESS PROVIDING THE FIBRES AND TEXTILE ACCESSORIES OF THE GARMENT WITH DIFFERENT TONES, INTENSITIES AND SHADES. FRONT YOKE WITH INSEAM POCKET ALONGSIDE THE CLOSURE WITH HIDDEN ZIPS. SNAPS AT CUFFS. ZIP FASTENING. FLAGSHIP STORE: 79 BREWER STREET_LONDON_W1F 9ZN
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Volume Two
CONTENTS
12 Just Landed
21 A Bit on the Side
The stories behind this season’s best-loved collections.
How some of our favourite designers are making a name for themselves away from the realms of fashion.
26 Designjunction
32 Sneaker Guide
We profile some of the most exciting talent at the upcoming event.
Still choosing your new season kicks? Let us help.
34 Y-3
36 Lanvin: 10 Years in the Making
We explain the differences between each forward-thinking sneaker style.
We explore the contemporary aesthetic of the iconic French fashion house.
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CONTENTS
42 The Force of Fragility
46 Analogue
We sat down for a rare and exclusive interview with the elusive Haider Ackermann.
In a world that’s focused on digital, we take a look at Raf Simons, Margiela and Rick Owens in analogue.
54 Utopian Repose
62 Top to Toe
Our streetwear-inspired, cutting-edge pieces thrive in the urban jungle.
Without a model to wear them, AW16’s most exciting pieces take on a life of their own.
71 Tonga: Your New Favourite Club
74 Eat Your Own Ears Venue Guide
Tonga founders Mike Skinner and Murkage Dave on their latest venture.
London’s foremost promoters present their tips for where to see the best new music.
76 AFROPUNK Festival We interviewed some of the key figures behind London’s most-progressive new festival.
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SHOP LANVIN.COM
It’s here — Welcome to oki-ni Volume Two There’s something really exciting that happens when art and fashion collide. The two seem to be becoming ever more entwined as designers expand on their creative talent with a number of extracurricular projects that put those of us with just a day-job to shame. With this in mind, we spoke to Rick Owens, Raf Simons, Paul Smith and Carolina Castiglioni of Marni for our ‘Bit on the Side’ feature. We’ll also head out to designjunction this September. Showcasing the best innovations in design, the fair invites established and up-andcoming creatives to unleash the products of their imaginations on both the public and industry insiders. Take a look at our feature to find out our ones-to-watch. This season we introduce two V.I.P designers to our lineup. Lanvin ready-to-wear arrives just in time for the 10th anniversary of Lucas Ossendriver’s reign at the French house, while Haider Ackermann is another new addition. We discussed his travel and cultural inspirations in an exclusive interview that welcomes him to the oki-ni fold. As always, we give you a taste of what’s to come this season with three original editorials presenting a taste of what you can expect from our AW16 offering. And last but by no means least; Mike Skinner tells us about his raucous Tonga parties, Eat Your Own Ears provide us with their guide to the best gig venues in London and beyond and we meet the artists and organisers behind Afropunk festival, all as part of our legendary Mix Series (Grace Jones headlining? We’ll see you there). Read on...
Sam Smith
Creative Director
9, rue madame VI
10, bd des filles du calvaire XI
M A ST H E A D
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Samuel Smith HEAD DESIGNER Josh Magee FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Spires FASHION WRITER Emma Davidson FASHION ASSISTANT Miles Brown CONTRIBUTORS Pani Paul Lola Paprocka Lewis Chong Lou Rolley Nayaab Tania Nicola Litson Zena May Hendrick PUBLISHER oki-ni COLOUR REPROGRAPHICS PH Media PRINTING Logical Connections
£100 Off YOUR NEXT ORDER
Seen something you like? Get £100 off your next order when you spend £400 or more. Enter Code: VOLUME2 at the checkout to redeem your discount. Valid on AW16 collections only. Ends 18th November 2016. Brand exclusions apply. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion. All items in this publication are available to purchase at oki-ni.com Simply use the product code (#000000) found within the pages of the magazine to search for your product online.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in this magazine are those of the contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine.
For all general enquiries, please contact us at enquiries@oki-ni.com For press enquiries, contact shawn@oki-ni.com
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Volume Two
Take a look at what to expect from oki-ni this season as we round-up the collections that have just landed.
JUST LANDED WORDS by Emma Davidson PHOTOGRAPHY by Lou Rolley STYLING by Miles Brown MODEL Max T at Elite GROOMING by Elvire Roux using Fudge Professional 12
Felt Harrington Jacket #4011571 £784, Striped Panel T-Shirt #401575 £229 Wide-Leg Trousers #401583 £454, Shark-Sole Leather Shoes #401601 £434
FO C U S
L ANVIN Lanvin’s ready-to-wear collection joins the oki-ni brand line-up for AW16, with a selection of styles demonstrating the brand’s luxurious yet contemporary sensibilities. Seen here, a boxy teddy-style jacket crafted from premium felted wool is paired with relaxed, wide-legged trousers - an easy silhouette that epitomises the casually-insouciant aesthetic of the revered French house.
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Volume Two
Satin Bomber Jacket #401539 £870, Shark-Sole Leather Shoes #401601 £240 Tech Runner #402309 £446
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NEIL BARRETT Renowned for his luxurious streetwear-inspired aesthetic, Neil Barrett sticks to what he knows best for AW16. Satin bomber jackets, neoprene sweatshirts and classic athletic track tops are presented featuring a number of the British-born, Milan-based designer’s signature motifs - including, most prominently, the distinctive lightning bolt design which adorns a large number of styles.
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Double Breasted Caban Coat #401953 £1,458, Distressed Wool Sweater #401961 £378 Extra Big Long Sleeved Shirt #4019247 £428
FO C U S
RAF SIMONS When it comes to the Raf Simons silhouette this season, bigger is most definitely better. From the voluminous puffa jacket and wool overcoats that are integral to the collection, to the oversized Varsity-inspired sweaters and cardigans bearing bold collegiate-esque letter motifs, Raf’s AW16 offering is not for the faint of heart. Nor is the inspiration behind it - the Belgian designer cites David Lynch as his main influence - particularly the surreal world dreamt up in the director’s cult television series Twin Peaks - as well as A Nightmare on Elm Street, Scream and Cindy Sherman’s ‘Untitled Horrors’ exhibition.
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Volume Two
Wool Bomber Jacket #401456 ÂŁ824, Wide Leg Trouser #401471 ÂŁ454
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MAISON MARGIEL A Margiela will see the wide-leg silhouette of the season, and raise you the extreme, amplified version. But what exactly were you expecting of the elusive French Maison, really? As always, Margiela touch on the trend in their own inimitable way, subverting it just enough to suit the unconventional sensibilities they are notorious for. The trousers pictured here are crafted from Italian virgin wool and are paired with a classic bomber jacket - albeit one with contrasting rust trims - to balance the sheer volume of the bottom half, while the shoes that peep from the trouser hem are crafted in Italy from premium calf skin leather in typically luxurious fashion.
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Distorted Print Windbreaker Jacket #402683 £330, Distorted Print Cotton T-Shirt #402684 £130, Dropped-Crotch Wool Shorts #402674 £275 Cotton Logo Socks #402673 £20, Kyujo Low Sneakers #402649 £255
FO C U S
Y-3 In a somewhat surprising move, Yohji Yamamoto diverts from his typically monochrome palette for AW16, presenting a collection of technicolour styles as part of his latest Y-3 collection. Fusing, as ever, innovative technology and cutting edge design, Yohji’s signature QASA, Boost and Kohna sneakers are injected with a healthy dose of colour, while his dynamic apparel - including lightweight windbreaker jackets, track pants and oversized t-shirts - feature a unique distorted graphic print throughout.
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Volume Two
Cashmere Blend Overcoat #401819 £815, Wool Bomber Jacket #401821 £740
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WOOYOUNGMI Mother and daughter duo Wooyoungmi head outdoors this season, drawing inspiration from their garden for AW16. In earthy tones of peat brown, succulent green and autumnal leaves, the collection is as characteristically androgynous as ever. Consisting of luxurious cashmereblend overcoats in cocoon-like shapes, wide-legged trousers and the Korean brand’s impeccably tailored shirts, the offering is punctuated throughout with subtle flora and fauna-esque prints and detailing - right down to the pleats and stitches that hold the garments together.
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Charcoal Pinstriped Suit #401803 £2,789, Pebblegrain Leather Bluchers #401141 £829
FO C U S
THOM BROWNE Thom Browne looks to the 1930s and the Great Depression as a source of inspiration this season. With ‘deconstructing and reconstructing’ at the heart of the collection, the American designer reappropriated earlier works into something new entirely in a statement against the current ‘fast fashion’ epidemic. His inimitable tailoring, with its signature high armholes and cropped proportions, sit perfectly within the era’s aesthetic, while Browne’s offbeat quirky elements come through via sausage dog motifs and detailing, courtesy of his own fourlegged friend Hector.
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FEATURE
There are some designers in the oki-ni line-up that can’t be talented in just one area and call it a day. These overachievers go all out in every direction of design — from music to furniture to architecture and art. We take a look at the extracurricular side-projects Rick Owens, Raf Simons, Paul Smith and Marni have presented in recent years.
A BIT ON THE SIDE
WORDS by Emma Davidson
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Volume Two
Rick Owens
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It’s to be expected that The Dark Lord of High Fashion would eschew traditional design and materials in favour of something a little more avant-garde with his collection of interior pieces – this is the man who once stated he ‘would lay a black glittering turd on the white landscape of conformity’ after all. Including a naked wax effigy of himself urinating on the floor and the life-sized models holding up the tables and chairs of his Hong Kong flagship store (an irreverent nod to Allen Jones’ 1969 Hatstand, Table & Chair), his esoteric sculptures are but one aspect of the multidisciplinary designer’s extra-curricular pursuits. Describing his inspirations as ‘Biblical, Brutalist, Bauhaus and Bakersfield’, Owens’ furniture marries the minimalist with the ostentatious – much in the same way as his
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eponymous clothing line does. In a signature minimalist palette, pieces are crafted from 500,000 year old petrified wood, stark white ox bone and Basalt; a dark lava stone that makes up ocean floors and surfaces the moon. “I would love to say I will be using Lunar Basalt, but I have had to accept that I’ll have to settle for Indonesian material” says Rick. Though ultimately functional – his antler-bearing Tomb Stag Bench and Curial chairs don’t necessarily facilitate casual lounging on a Sunday evening (“sentimental cosiness is not my thing”) – they will inspire the envy of dinner guests regardless. The piece de resistance is an alabaster and marble bed first presented in 2010 – yours if you have a spare $216,000 that you’ve been saving for a rainy day.
FEATURE
Raf Simons
Raf Simons’ AW16 offering is inspired by the dystopian landscape of Twin Peaks, so it’s fitting that the furniture the designer premiered in Berlin earlier this year wouldn’t look out of place within a highly stylised interior dreamt up by David Lynch. Crafted in collaboration with Kvadrat – the third time the Belgian designer has teamed up with the Danish textile manufacturer – the collection centres around an exclusive re-iteration of Franco Albini’s 1940 Poltrona Seggiovia (or Chairlift Chair, if, like us, your Italian is not quite as fluent as you’d like it to be). Demonstrating his inclination for colour and texture, a palette of cobalt blue, powder pink and fresh lemon yellow is manipulated into a series of stripes reflecting the uninhibited lines of Albini’s design. Raf looks to another mainstay of his fashion offerings
– music – to grant the textiles their names; Reflex, Pulse and Fuse. In addition to the Poltrona Seggiovia, the collection also comprises handstitched cushions and throws crafted from soft alpaca and merino wool. We suggest piling them high, setting your phone to ‘straight to voicemail’ and taking an hour or so out to enjoy a damn fine cup of coffee.
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Marni
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“Our original idea was not to approach design in a traditional way, but from a desire to open up to a new way of expressing ourselves” says Carolina Castiglioni speaking of Marni’s collection of Colombian-inspired furniture, recently launched at Salone del Mobile in Milan. As the brand’s Director of Special Projects, Carolina has expanded on the Italian brand’s existing relationship with the women of Colombia that work on the Marni Jewellery collections. Following the debut offering which launched in 2012, this season inspiration is drawn from the South American dance Cumbia – a Colombian couples’ dance that unites much of the country. “There was more of an active exchange throughout this project. We started to design different chair models and match them with
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other types of furnishings, but in strict collaboration with the local artisans - who not only created the items for us but also shared their ideas and suggestions. This brought continuity to the project, which did not stop at the creation of different collections every year but evolved into a creative model.” The 2016 offering boasts a number of pieces handwoven – in characteristically offbeat form – from brightly coloured PVC cord, carved wood and metal. And in an age of fast-fashion and the horror stories we hear in regards to so-called ‘sweat shops’, the project has a happy aside - the collaboration has also allowed the women involved to gain independence and emancipation through their work.
FEATURE
Paul Smith
It’s ironic that a designer that denounces the internet would have one of the most Instagrammed stores in the world. Such is the case of Sir Paul Smith and his Melrose Avenue space in Los Angeles. Inspired by a trip to Mexico City to see the work of much-admired architect Luis Barragán, tourists and fans of the brand alike jostle for a post-worthy picture of the bubblegum pink building on a daily basis. One of 300 stores across the world (including 10 in London alone), the L.A. store may be the most recognisable, but that’s not to say that’s where the British designer’s attention to detail ends when it comes to the architecture and interior of his shops. Each incorporates a number of styles, with no two spaces the same; from the Dover Street Market space set up exactly as his original
Nottingham Studio to the Mondrian-inspired glass front of the Las Vegas store. Notably, his most recent London opening is the Mayfair space; No. 9 Albemarle Street. The store’s iron façade is based on Sir Paul’s own sketches and since it opened has inspired a collection of accessories in itself – Paul Smith No. 9. The interior is inspired by Mayfair’s rich art history, with sculptor Barbara Hepworth and painter Ben Nicholson cited as influences. Furniture is provided by another British stalwart; Terence Conran. And if you ever make it in there, the domino wall of the shoe department is a sight to behold. Definitely one for Instagram if you can’t make it to L.A. just yet.
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Volume Two
DESIGN
22 nd—25 th September
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JUNCTION Designjunction finds a new home in London’s rapidly developing creative quarter, King’s Cross. 26
FEATURE
It probably won’t come as a surprise that we at oki-ni have a deeprooted interest in design in all its forms. We ourselves started out as a concept store in a gallery space on Savile Row, creating collaborative pieces with a diverse array of brands; think adidas, Paul Smith, Levi’s and Porter. With this in mind, and amidst plans to expand our lifestyle offering in the coming seasons, this September we’ll be heading just down the road to the innovative designjunction. It’s first time in its new King’s Cross home, the fair showcases the latest innovations and brands that will be — or have been — making waves in the design world. Always keen to champion new and pioneering design — particularly but not limited to young British designers (we’re looking at you Matthew Miller, CMMN SWDN and Casely-Hayford) — we’ve picked a selection of the brands from the fair’s line-up that we think you should keep an eye out for.
WORDS by Emma Davidson
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Volume Two
HEATHER SHIELDS Based on the West Coast of Scotland, Heather Shields’ textile company is a family affair – with the brand’s headquarters set within the Shields’ home in the Argyll village of Kilcreggan. Multi-disciplined Heather is the founder, creative director, designer and weaver, while mum Jane and dad Robin take care of manufacture and logistics respectively. Graduating from Glasgow School of Art in 2014 after studying textile design, Heather’s handcrafted cushions and blankets are inspired by childhood puzzles and the intuitive way in which children create geometric structures from building blocks. With a strong sense of colour and a distinct graphic edge, inspiration for the vibrant tones in her work come from photographs of objects found on family travels; vintage cars in Cuba, mosaics in Italy and ropes and buoys from the Inner Hebrides. Using only the finest Scottish lamb’s wool and a traditional double-cloth technique, Heather will be showcasing her work for the second time at designjunction – look out for a new range of accessories that she’ll be debuting there.
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FEATURE
HABERDASHERY Led by original founders Mac Cox and Ben Rigby, Haberdashery is a contemporary design practice creating bespoke sculptures in a London-based studio. Renowned for their mastery of light, the group has collaborated with leading architects, artists, designers and brands from around the world. The brand works closely with artist Chris Levine who has immortalised images of Kate Moss, Grace Jones and Her Majesty the Queen. They’ve also worked with Selfridges, Fred Perry and the British Film Institute to create innovative light sculptures and this season will showcase a range of fine bone china sculptures as part of their ‘Leaf’ collection. Our favourite Haberdashery installation, however, is Disco Disco; a sound-responsive light sculpture inspired by that ‘70s discotheque mainstay: the disco ball. First displayed as part of the ‘Play of Brilliants’ show at Paris’ Elephant Paname, the piece uses a modular system of acrylic fins arranged in a circular configuration, the tips of which act as giant pixels that spread and abstract white light through the arts space.
TOM PIGEON Tom Pigeon is a creative studio founded by Pete and Kirsty Thomas in 2014. Based in Cellardyke – a tiny fishing village on the East Coast of Scotland – the husband and wife duo create simple but striking prints, stationary and jewellery. Inspired by shape, colour and both natural and built environments, the brand is sold around the world. Key to the company is affordability; they place emphasis on creating pieces that can be enjoyed by everyone. By no means newcomers to designjunction, this season Tom Pigeon will showcase two new collections. ‘Totems’ is a series of prints exploring the interplay of pattern, shape and form while ‘The Tin Shed Project’ celebrates the diverse forms and textures of tin farming sheds – all interpreted in their signature refined, contemporary style.
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Volume Two
HAGIT PINCOVICI Born in Tel Aviv in 1978, Hagit Pincovici is a Rome-based furniture designer. The third generation of an Israeli family who have been craft-testing materials since the 1960s, her creative upbringing evolved into her own personal interpretation of design. Using natural matter including marble and wood, her furniture is crafted by hand in the heart of the Italian furniture district of Brianza; a careful combination of aesthetics, quality materials and the utmost precision. In September, Pincovici presents ‘Flamingo’ – a functional sculpture that stores small and precious objects within. Crafted from premium brass and polished to a high-shine, the compartments are aligned on a vertical pivot which rotates to reveal what’s inside. Limited to only a small amount of pieces, head to her stand at designjunction to take a look – and maybe even take one home.
SYGNS Based in Berlin and Copenhagen, Sygns is a neon design and production company founded by friends Anthony, Max and Nils. Searching for a neon installation for their Berlin flat, they found their options were limited and expensive so took it upon themselves to change this. Working with an in-house team of designers on their own works and bespoke commissions for private clients, it is the ‘Desygns’ series we’re most interested by. Teaming up with Architects, Fine & Graphic Artists and Interior Designers based in Berlin and beyond, the company create unique, original neon works that don’t break the bank. Offering retro-charm with a contemporary finish, Sygns will bring a selection of their hand-blown installations to designjunction. Have you bought a ticket yet?
designjunction runs from 22 nd—25 th September www.thedesignjunction.co.uk
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Now Available at www.oki-ni.com
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Volume Two
Your New Season Sneakers, Sorted
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FO C U S
HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE STYLES TO KNOW FOR AW16 Over the past few years, sneakers have evolved from a streetwear stalwart to a menswear wardrobe staple. No matter what your style is, there’s a brand and silhouette to suit you - and our handy guide is here to help you find it.
VALENTINO
Grey Camouflage Felt Running Sneakers #402156 £510 Luxury brand Valentino isn’t new to the sneaker game – their classic running sneaker is a seasonal favourite which returns with every collection in a new colourway. Their signature camouflage print might be intended to help you blend in, but we have a feeling it might do the opposite.
MARNI
Panelled Leather Running Sneakers #402829 £390 Showcasing two of Marni’s most-recognisable design traits: a sturdy, chunky heel and a penchant for colour blocking, these sneakers from the Italian house mirror the season’s autumnal hues.
LANVIN
SPALWART
NIKE
Camouflage Leather Slip-Ons #401590 £414
Marathon Trail Low (Wb) #401234 £185
Blue Mayfly Woven #402059 £89
Lanvin also take on camouflage print, opting for a typically subdued palette of black, grey and green. The perfect balance between luxury and laid-back, these sneakers are an easy slip-on style with a chunky textured sole.
For those after something with a more vintage sensibility, Stalwart are the brand for you. The Swedish sneaker manufacturer harks back to an age before mass-production comprised quality, producing each pair in an 1950’s factory with original machinery.
Always one to push the boundaries, Nike’s forward-thinking Mayfly silhouette features an artfully-woven suede upper which is guaranteed to keep things breezy.
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Volume Two
Y-3 TECHNICAL INNOVATION MEETS UNPARALLELED DESIGN EXPERTISE
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FO C U S
Y-3 defined the concept of collaboration. Forged as a mutual agreement between adidas and Yohji Yamamoto in 2004, the brand is the ultimate fusion of sportswear functionality and a considered, design-led aesthetic. Given adidas’ athletic background, it isn’t surprising that the collab’s sneaker offering has been the focus of each collection for over a decade. Can’t decide which style you like best? Let us help.
BLACK LEATHER #402652 £375
ORANGE KYUJO LOW #402649 £255 It might be a little divisive, but the Kyujo showcases Y-3’s bold, forward-thinking approach to design. An incredibly graphic style, the Kyujo combines a zigzag caged upper with that distinctive spherical sole unit. Not one for the faint-hearted.
Y–3 Qasa High An archetypal style, the Qasa showcases the core qualities of Y-3: clean lines, unparalleled comfort and technical performance. For the new season, the brand debut a new grey colourway.
BLACK PUREBOOST ZG #402656 £230 The PureBoost ZG takes its name from the innovative Boost sole unit which has featured on some of adidas’ most popular recent silhouettes – this style benefits from moulded uppers and subtle branding.
GREY
#402650 £260
BLUE KOHNA #402662 £190 Lightweight, foldable and the most comfortable sneaker we’ve tried in a long time, the Kohna is an ideal travel companion. For this particular pair, Y-3 deviate from their traditional monochrome palette and mix things up with a bit of colour.
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Volume Two
Ten Years In the Making
WORDS by Lewis Chong PHOTOGRAPHY by Jack Johnstone
How Lucas Ossendrijver Turned the French Fashion House into a Home
LANVIN 36
Bound Seem Parka #401576 £1,574 Printed Shirt #401573 £309
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Felt Harrington Jacket #4011571 £784 Wide-Leg Trousers #401583 £454
“LANVIN ISN’T A COLLECTION, IT’S A WARDROBE FOR MEN”
Volume Two
When Lucas Ossendrijver was drafted in as style director of Lanvin menswear there was no archive of past collections, no atelier, no source materials to consult. What he did find was the madeto-measure department, a sort of altar to craftsmanship, where premier tailors have laboured over shirts and suits, cravats and bow ties for private clients since 1926. It is here where you would find the Dutch designer in his early days — watching, assessing, planning. For Ossendrijver, the lack of a prior blueprint didn’t hinder. It gave him even more authority to tread his own path, to establish the masculine codes for a fashion house that will be historically defined by them, and him. To do this he turned to radical experimentation, challenging the potential of silhouette, textiles and technique. Research is so crucial that Ossendrijver refers to his workspace as a ‘creative laboratory’. No sketches or draping bolts of toile onto a mannequin. It’s exploration and critical analysis. He spends weeks with his team of five young assistants determining the mood of a new collection and imagining its fabrics and gestures before any preliminary samples are manufactured. His design practice is about partnership, and it demonstrates his capacity to welcome the unknown. ‘Lanvin isn’t a collection, it’s a wardrobe for men,’ is Ossendrijver’s muchquoted maxim. His method offers freedom and choice in menswear, an essential framework of important, personal pieces
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for all sorts of men. It’s fair to say that the inclusion Ossendrijver has fostered is worlds away from his previous experience at Dior Homme under the direction of Hedi Slimane, whose devotion to the idealised rake-thin rock star silhouette had the ability to exclude. Though it did encourage Karl Lagerfeld to drop six stone so he could shimmy into Hedi’s extra-skinny denim. Now a decade into his tenure at France’s oldest couture house and Lucas Ossendrijver has his language fully formed. The milestone not only marks 10 years of him at the helm, but 10 years of Lanvin as we know it—crumpled up, lived in, let loose elegance. Another monumental change is the ousting of Alber Elbaz. Lanvin’s former artistic director shared a brotherly, even fatherly, relationship with Ossendrijver, and when the sudden dismissal was announced in October many wondered how it would affect him and the menswear. The Autumn/Winter 2016 collection is the first that Elbaz has not cast his eye over. He gave Ossendrijver complete independence but was always on hand to offer guidance, to reassure. It’s a big one too as it celebrates the anniversary; a retrospective of sorts. Not officially. Ossendrijver would never admit to such an easy read. Cementing meaning might affect ambiguity. But how could the collection not reference the past in some way as it’s a steady evolution of the male wardrobe, given the circumstances?
FEATURE
Subversion is demonstrated in the house’s footwear collection too. Dress shoes become juxtapositions. Take the classic Derby; at Lanvin the leather uppers of this less formal shoe are hand-stitched to serrated shark soles or fused with the angular platforms of a Creeper. On another pair the laces are replaced with elasticated bands—athleticism and performance crossbred with the formal. The signature running sneaker also celebrates the anniversary this season, reissued anew in explorative compositions including a netting and mesh pair vividly spray-dyed with reptilian stripes. The graffitied marks hint at the hand. Meanwhile in Paris, at Lucas Ossendrijver’s modest office in the 8th Arrondissement, an antique desk is flanked by stacks of books on art and photography; the hard-backed editions spill onto floating shelves and all-white surfaces. It’s the unofficial library of the ‘creative laboratory’ where a collection begins to find its feet, and where Ossendrijver spends many a lunchtime leafing through his titles with an egg mayo butty in hand (probably not that last bit). He has favourites too. A heady collection of Kodachrome snapshots taken by the late fashion photographer David Armstrong is one. Night and Day documents Armstrong’s prolific cast of friends and contemporaries in the clubbing heyday of late ’70s/early ‘80s New York; artist
Right: Zip-Through Overshirt #402286 £745 Far Right: Tarantula Embellished Bomber Jacket #401570 £1,419
Instead Ossendrijver spoke of looking onward—putting the garment under a microscope, about the performance of detail and to honour the hand behind the honed. To do this he pushed construction into the spotlight, showcasing what might ordinarily go unnoticed. Bias bound seams, usually hidden inside a garment’s lining, become an important design detail on a felt wool parka crafted inside out. Its generous cut leaves room underneath for mismatched layers in opposing textures, colours and fabrics—a signature of Lanvin’s. The bowling shirt is a crucial contrast this season, reworked here in a technical voile fabric with striped jersey inserts and in washed silk, printed all-over with boot treads, a shout-out to the worker. Conflict isn’t only felt in the layering; a rebellious personality is seen throughout the collection. To this end Ossendrijver roughed up perfection and clashed subcultures. A fine suit jacket is cropped to the waist, its neckline left unfinished after the collar is ripped off leaving the lapel behind. Wide-leg virgin wool trousers explore new volumes through pleats and gathers. The boxy ease of a Harrington-meetsvarsity jacket in light grey cuts through their rippling weight. For more textural depth, a significant runway sweater knitted from wool in a structural military stitch is unfinished with a raw edged neck—slightly ragged as if sawn off.
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Jean-Michel Basquiat and poet Rene Ricard included. Of equal importance are two titles, Jens F and Neighbours/Nachbarn, by Collier Schorr. In these works the fine art photographer creates assemblages of youth, capturing the gestures of identity— both real and fictionalised—that betray her fresh-faced sitters. These three soul-baring volumes reveal most about the Lanvin man; they’re his coming of age moments. Ossendrijver’s approach to design might be about evolution but it’s also an evaluation: of the pitted roads between adulthood and adolescence, of the oppositions in domesticity and fantasy, and of the potency of the individual. When many other fashion collections are approximations of personality, duping and whitewashing the irregularities of the wearer, Ossendrijver taps their divine source. The Dutch designer has revealed an extraordinary capacity for vulnerability, to reflect nuance and shape change. These intimate qualities allow the Lanvin man to not only relate to his 21st century, real-life counterparts but to inhabit him completely. Because, let’s face it, aren’t we all still figuring it out as we go along?
Lanvin’s AW16 collection is now available to shop online at www.oki-ni.com
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Volume Two
A FORCE OF FRAGILITY
WORDS by Lewis Chong
Mystery. It’s the word that describes Haider Ackermann’s sensibilities best. He’s not one for the attention that such a position necessitates now. Interviews are thin on the ground. His private life isn’t splashed across social media. The nearest Ackermann has ever come to artistic disclosure is the issue of A MAGAZINE he guest curated a couple of years ago; the pages a psychoanalyst’s goldmine—including the extremely long exposure shots of seascapes by Hiroshi Sugimoto, a couple of Francis Bacons, Roger Ballen’s photojournalistic studies of the marginalised and mentally ill, and an essay on elegance by fashion commentator Colin McDowell.
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Coat: Haider Ackermann #87654 £590, Coat: Haider Ackermann #87654 £590
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As the boundaries between public and private, reality and manufactured realness become ever more murky its admirable that Haider Ackermann prizes privacy. He gets that in the 21st century the biggest luxury might just be anonymity. Or as anonymous as a respected fashion designer can be.
assigned collection due to his tendency for perfection. Forcing or rushing ideas is not in the Ackermann rulebook. It’s these atypical nomadic experiences, the outsider looking in scenario, that significantly marks his collections. Ackermann’s first memories of fashion are of Persian women passing by on deserted streets, shrouded to the viewer, the ever lessening sounds of tinkling jewellery and rustling cloth left in their wake. Mystique, gesture and atemporality. There’s tension in his aesthetic too, in identity and locality, and sophistication, both storied and wayward; the cracking of beauty and disturbance of the bourgeoisie. Take runway look one: an overcoat is cut extravagantly long in brushed tweed, its mohair, fleece wool and alpaca yarns woven into a shadowy checkerboard.
Above: Blue Crushed Velvet Bomber Jacket #402713 £1,065 Right: Monochrome Dupre Felt Coat #402714 £1,555 Far Right: Proud Wool Tuxedo Jacket #402711 £1,225
Born in Bogotá, Columbia, adopted by French parents and raised in Africa and the Middle East, Haider Ackermann has earned the title of ‘global citizen’ thanks to his cartographer dad. He lived in Chad, Algeria, Iran and Ethiopia before settling in the Netherlands. At 25, Ackermann moved to Antwerp to study fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, from where he was expelled for failing to complete any
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Beneath it, the tuxedo lapels of an otherwise minimalist tailored jacket are just visible. A darkening of traditional codes of menswear. Or in look 11, for volume a crinkled velvet MA1 bomber in dark sapphire blue is gathered in the body and ruched in the sleeves. A poeticising of sportswear; sentiment grounded in the everyday. In an attempt to pull back the covers on such a remarkable talent—or at least yank them off slightly—we managed to pin down the notoriously hard to pin down designer to talk travel, Autumn/Winter 2016, and the nuances of his man in an exclusive interview as Haider Ackermann makes his debut on oki-ni.
FEATURE
“I simply hope that my mind will sort it out and let me remember what is left from my journeys. It should stay vague and misty for me to be able to appropriate the moods, gesture, colours and fallings. There is no need to copy anything directly. What remains is the most desirable.”
The nomadic experience is a big part of your own story—how do you interpret distance? Distance is something quite relative, as perhaps being far away from home and your loved ones makes you in those moments even more closer to them. You might think of those particular moments that in daily life would have escaped you. This reflection, to be more focussed and to absorb all new images, living in the unknown, only helps me to translate culture and differences into my man.
What is it about the contrasts, between evening and sportswear, fitted and flowing, rich and simple, that inspires you? The force of any fragility is a mental feeling, it is hard to translate this with any garment, though the choice of the fabrics and their contradiction might help to create a certain mood. On the topic of mood, you have mentioned that with your womenswear you like to have necks free because it’s a woman’s most sensual part. Is there a male equivalent? Any gesture of a man with his hands will give him a kind of elegance, a certain attitude.
So what cultures, or places, do you feel more at home in? Away from our civilisation, away from any media connection, exploring endless landscapes where damage has yet to be done by human beings…where somehow time is standing still. Is this not our biggest luxury now: time?
When you travel you don’t take pictures, to remember inspirations independently. Why is that? I simply hope that my mind will sort it out and let me remember what is left from my journeys. It should stay vague and misty for me to be able to appropriate the moods, gesture, colours and fallings. There is no need to copy anything directly. What remains is the most desirable.
You have said that “A man is about attitude, about gesture.” How does your man hold himself? Straight, as in one needs to stand straight in life. What mood is your man in for Autumn/Winter 2016? It is a marching of bohemians, well-travelled daydreamers with a more angular straightness than in previous seasons; a more decadent mood due to the opulence of the velvets, with a rocker energy from the leathers and golden pythons.
Where are you exploring next? Buthan, India, Tchad, Iceland and Mongolia. Your passport must be exhausted. Would you ever consider writing a book about your journeys, almost like a travel diary? Every collection is a chapter of a book, every line is a new gesture. There is no need for me to write a book. I’ll leave that up to the writers.
Your colours too are very atmospheric, can you explain your approach? In the past [the Haider man] preferred to be in the shadows. All my colours were muted, dusty and faded. He was the observer. Nowadays he has come into the light: electricity, brightness and enriching colours give him more nobility and tension. You talk a lot about moments of solitude, walking alone in the street—where’s he going? One does not want to know where this person has spent his days and nights…
Haider Ackermann’s AW16 collection is now available to shop online at www.oki-ni.com
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In a world that’s all-digital, we’re going back to analogue. Keep things lo-fi with a mix of styles from Maison Margiela, Rick Owens and Raf Simons: we have a feeling you’re going to want to replay this one.
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Collarless Suit Jacket #401567 £1,259, Knitted Shirt Jacket #401568 £784, Wide Leg Trousers £454 #401583 All Lanvin
Photography by Pani Paul, Styling by Samuel Smith, Assistant Daniel Aloisio, Art Direction by Lola Paprocka, Model by JJ at Nevs, Grooming by Elvire Roux using Bumble & Bumble and NARS cosmetics
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ANALOGUE
Bleached Stain Coat #401531 £1,848, Bleached Stain Shorts #401535 £506, Stretch Sneakers #401523 £989 All Rick Owens
Y-3 Ottoman Top #402682 £285, Rick Owens Oversized Utility Trouser #401529 £572, Nike QS Taupo Slider #402865 £75
Lanvin Raw Hem Sweater #402293 £830
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Raf Simons Oversized Shirt with Contrast Stitches #401947 £428, and Oversized Sleeveless Sweater#401956 £745 Levi’s Vintage 1978 501 Jeans #010309 £224, Maison Margiela Leather Boots #401489 £584
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Striped Collarless Shirt #402815 £280 Quilted Bomber Jacket #402819 £920 Loose Fit Trouser #402817 £415 (All Marni)
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Maison Margiela Boxy Jacket #402246 £565 Marni Collarless Overshirt #402814 £300 and Loose Fit Trouser #402816 £505
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Utopian Repose
PHOTOGRAPHY by Lou Rolley, STYLING by Nayaab Tania, MODEL by Jos at AMCK GROOMING by Elvire Roux using Keihl’s skin care and grooming cream
Rather than a being a foreboding, unforgiving environment, the urban landscape provides our contemporary, streetwear-inspired pieces with a chance to thrive; a concrete utopia for the modern age. 54
Previous page: OAMC Down Officer Coat #402315 £1,740 This Page: Acne Studios Beat P Corduroy Jacket #401651 £370 OAMC Drawcord Trousers #402322 £290 Maison Margiela White Leather And Suede Replica Sneakers #401477 £264
Felt Detail Sweatshirt #402126 £144 and Rust Tailored Trouser #402122 £178 both CMMN SWDN
CMMN SWDN Cropped Suede Jacket #402118 £659 Paul Smith Zip-Up Panelled Cardigan # #401633 £229
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Nylon Overshirt #402591 £265 House Check Overshirt #402593 £195 Both Stone Island
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Matthew Miller Kvadrat Overcoat #401843 £1,080 Dust Treated Sweatshirt #402632 £292 and Dust treated Sweatpant #402691 £325 both Stone Island Shadow Project
OAMC Insert Bomber Jacket #402316 £780 Matthew Miller Relaxed Trousers #401850 £159 Gosha Rubchinskiy Braces #401758 £55
Sheepskin Jacket #401748 £395, Crewneck Sweatshirt #401742 £105 Oversized Double Cuff Sweatpant #401753 £125 White Sunrise Socks #401763 £20 All Gosha Rubchinskiy Nike Air Max 95 #402039 £114
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Top to Without a model to wear them, AW16’s key styles have taken on a life of their own. Time to get up-close and personal with the pieces that have enough personality to speak for themselves.
Toe
PHOTOGRAPHY by Nicola Litson SET DESIGN by Zena May Hendrick ART DIRECTION by Samuel Smith 62
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LANVIN PANELLED TECH RUNNER #401589 ££ 434
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VALENTINO NAVY ROCKSTUD PEACOAT #402136 £1,395 EDITIONS MR ROLL NECK SWEATER #402530 £128 LANVIN FELT HARRINGTON JACKET #401571 £784 VALENTINO ROCKSTUD JEANS #402132 £485 MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA SNEAKERS #40481 £414
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ACNE STUDIOS CANADA SCARF #401672 £120 STONE ISLAND REVERSIBLE SCARF #402617 £105 THOM BROWNE CABLE KNIT SCARF #401797 £179 ACNE STUDIOS CANADA SCARF #401674 £120 65
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RAF SIMONS MONOGRAMMED SNEAKER #401964 £508 66
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GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY HOODED SHEEPSKIN COAT #401749 £435 RICK OWENS STRIPED KNIT SWEATER #401513 £615
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VALENTINO GRAINED LEATHER BACKPACK #402177 £1,580 PORTER BOSTON BAG #010472 £444 LANVIN TWO IN ONE BAG #00901 £1,155
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MAISON MARGIELA TRICOLORE CARDIGAN #401470 £414 MAISON MARGIELA COTTON SHIRT #401457 £209 VALENTINO STAR-MOTIF DERBY SHOES #402167 £575 PAUL SMITH PLEAT FRONT CHINOS #401625 £239 ACNE STUDIOS TONY FACE JACKET #401649 £250
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Now running for over half a decade, the oki-ni MIX SERIES represents the crossover between the worlds of fashion and music. Sourcing and promoting burgeoning talent has always been an integral part of oki-ni, and the series is a platform for just that. Each week we present our customers with a brand new, exclusive mix from a DJ, producer or musician, ranging from the latest talent to industry icons. But the mixes aren’t all we do. For this issue of the magazine, we’ve got an exclusive interview with former MIX SERIES contributor Mike Skinner, a guide to the best venues in London from Field Day organisers Eat Your Own Ears, and a profile of London’s most exciting new festival AFROPUNK.
To browse our extensive mix archive, head to: editorial.oki-ni.com, or follow us on Mixcloud @okini 70
M I X S E R I ES
T O N G A
YOUR NEW FAVOURITE CLUB NIGHT You might not have heard of it yet, but Tonga is ‘the best club night in the country’ according to founders Mike Skinner and Murkage Dave. We sat down with the dynamic duo to find out more about Tonga, and got a little bit side-tracked with memes, politics and nu rave. PHOTOGRAPHY by Lou Rolley WORDS by Jessica Spires
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in there like ‘I’m so humble and I’m such a nice guy’. It is the best club in the world, but I haven’t been to many others. You thought I was sending for you.
On why Tonga came about… Mike Skinner: Tonga came about because I wanted to start a club night. And Dave wanted to finish having a club night.
D: It’s a sensitive morning.
Murkage Dave: It was kinda like Carlito’s Way. When he comes
M: How did you think that was me criticising you?
out of prison and he’s like… ‘I’m gonna go straight’. But the game just pulls you back. I got dragged back. Actually, it came about because I was stalking Mike. And if someone is stalking you, you can either take them as a friend, or fight them.
D: You were like… ‘I haven’t got time for this fuckery’. M: Oh right! Like ‘dickheads hang out in clubs, Dave’s out every night. Well, that is true.
M: I was like… I could use this to my advantage.
D: I’ll get over it. On what to expect from a Tonga night… D: In a lot of nightclubs, there’s an element of competition –
everyone is competing in some way. ‘I’ve got the best designer clothes, I’ve got the most money, I’m the hottest girl, I’m the most drunk’…
M: Well that’s definitely my one. He was like, ‘how can I include Mike in this? Because he’s definitely not the hottest guy in the club…’
D: Whatever it is, there’s always something. With Tonga, there’s none of that.
M: Oh come on man, are you gonna start on this socialist stuff?
Says him in the Helmut Lang, the fresh Helmut. What you get with Tonga is basically me and Dave having a seven hour long argument, with songs in-between.
About giving out masks at their clubnights…
D: Mike trying to endorse Donald Trump over the mic..
M: The masks are amazing. We gave them out at fabric to
promote this song CCTV. We noticed that people cover their faces a lot if you point a camera at them. You see it on people’s snapchats. Even if they do a selfie but they’ll scribble their face out because they look a bit old or fat or something. So really the masks came from that. It’s funny though isn’t it; doing a selfie and then scribbling yourself out?
M: When I was at Glastonbury, I went on and said ‘because you
didn’t vote, Boris is going to be PM’. People got really angry, and started booing and stuff. I’m really surprised that Boris has ducked out. Corbyn hasn’t.
D: That made me more angry than the referendum result. That made me want to fly-kick him off his bicycle.
D: It’s an oxymoron.
M: To me he’s kinda like the underdog.
M: Explain that. Why would someone do a selfie and then scribble themselves out?
D: Bruv. He is the guy in the kebab shop after a fight, who’s trying
to flex... But when the fight kicks off, he’s nowhere to be seen. And you’re there getting your head kicked in by like ten guys bruv. That’s who he is. That kind of guy cannot be in my circle, as Donaeo said.
D: Self-loathing. M: So we’ve made some self-loathing masks, under the banner of CCTV, which is our new song. And we gave them out at Fabric.
D: I wanna see people do bank jobs in them to be honest.
On the club scene in the UK…
M: Okay… well… that would be really bad. So I’m not gonna
D: I would say that Tonga is the best club night in the country.
agree with that. But secretly, yeah. That’s sick.
Apart from Visions, which is a club and not a night. But apart from that, Tonga’s the best.
D: What’s cooler than a bank job?
M: Because I’ve got a life… I’ve got such a full life, that I don’t go
M: We’re gonna break the internet.
to clubs. Based on the clubs I’ve been to, Tonga is…
See how he’s slyly digging me there? That was a shot. I’m
D: gonna remember that. It’s cool.
On their alleged love for memes…
M: This is how beef starts! On my children’s life, I did not think of
D: Memes are amazing. I feel like they’ve levelled the playing
you at all then. I thought, how can I be arrogant and say that Tonga is the best club in the country, but slyly put that thing
ground. I follow a lot of meme accounts.
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M: Hang tight Richard Dawkins though! He invented the word. D: I didn’t know that. You’ve always gotta take things to that level. M: Selfish gene mate. Genes aren’t that selfish though. D: Oh! I’ve got two copies of that book in my house. D: Do you know my favourite meme? Have you seen that one where it’s like… ‘When you a cat, but you also a nun. And the hood fucks with you heavily’. [Laughs] That’s the best meme of all time. [Laughing]. It’s literally the best. Have you seen this? I don’t even know why I find it funny.
M: It’s because that half cat half nun looks like you. When he
looks at that meme… he’s looking at himself. That’s why it means something to him, and nothing to anybody else.
D: Bro. Best meme of all time.
On their personal style… D: A.B.E man. All black everything. M: Before Dave pipes up and says he’s about this A.B.E thing.
He’s not really about this A.B.E thing. All black everything: I’ve been on that for nearly 2 years. In the past year you won’t have seen me wearing anything that wasn’t black. Not even one item, or even an accessory.
D: Actually you’ve got that pink Ralph Lauren cable knit. M: OK. Apart from that. D: It’s lovely. M: Dave doesn’t wanna look like a London Fashion Week blogger, does he? You know on the front row. You’re like… OK… that guy’s in all black, he clearly works in fashion. THAT dude in the camo Santa outfit with a hairnet? He’s a blogger.
D: Mate I miss those days. I miss the nu rave era. That was my
era. People just wearing like a litre carton of Ribena around their neck. You feel me? People wearing like a bucket of KFC. It was a free time. That’s the era that I came up in.
M: That was the era I settled down in. I got out just as you wrapped the Nintendo controller around your neck. Pre-Hadouken.
D: Hang tight Hadouken! M: Two years ‘BH’ - Before Hadouken. D: I wonder what JME thought of Hadouken? M: Hadouken were the Drake of nu rave. D: Drake is the past man.
“You know on the front row. You’re like… OK… that guy’s in all black, he clearly works in fashion. That dude in the camo Santa outfit with a hairnet? He’s a blogger.” 73
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The oki-ni & Eat Your Own Ears Venue Guide PHOTOGRAPHY by Carolina Faruolo
Eat Your Own Ears pride themselves on promoting music from across the spectrum of genres - and music that defies classification altogether. Renowned for programming exciting and unique gigs, their aim is to bring together different groups of music fans, creating new audiences and delivering inspiring music to all. Over the past 15 years they’ve put on the first London shows for The xx, Antony and the Johnsons, Bat For Lashes, Florence and the Machine, Metronomy and Django Django just to name a few. They’re also responsible for eclectic East London festival Field Day which has just celebrated its 10th year. With this in mind, we had to ask the team to put together a list of their top London-based venues, and give us a preview of what’s to come in the next few months: “We’ve spent many a night in all sorts of venues across the capital, seen places open up and also sadly close. It’s hard to pick favourites when London has such a wealth of excellent music venues to catch some live music, but here are a few current highlights for us.”
BERMONDSEY SOCIAL CLUB We love the intimacy of this small venue in Bermondsey. Although it hasn’t been open long, it’s fast becoming the place to check out the growing South London music scene. We recently had South Londoner Jamie Isaac grace the stage here, and it was such an electric performance we can’t wait to go back again soon. Upcoming shows: 29th September: TANGERINES – Peckham based band Tangerines are a sneering mass of energy on stage, playing sprawling 70s influenced rock’n’roll.
HEAVEN
MOTH CLUB A newcomer to the Hackney night-life scene, the Moth Club only opened its doors last summer but it’s already cemented itself as one of the best places to catch new bands. Alongside their excellent musical offerings, you can also expect comedy nights, cabaret and their infamous themed pub quizzes (The Office themed quizzes hosted by the real-life Keith were a particular highlight). We haven’t even mentioned the mesmerising gold glitter ceiling or the fact that as an active British Legion Club you can come across a brilliantly varied mix of people in the intimate front bar. Upcoming shows: 12th October: MABEL – Neneh Cherry’s super cool daughter Mabel is carving a niche for herself as one of pop’s most refreshing and positive new figures. 4th November: FLAMINGODS – psychedelic experts in hypnotic party music! 5th November: Help celebrate ROUGH TRADE’S 40 TH BIRTHDAY with an evening of the best new bands around.
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Whilst hosting London’s famous G-A-Y nights, Heaven also caters for a wide range of musical talents from all over the world. Hidden away under the Arches near Charing Cross, the venue boasts impressive production and an unusually high stage, making it a favourite amongst gig-goers. Past highlights include Caribou, The Temper Trap, Grimes and Kindness. Upcoming shows: 3rd November: Fickle Friends – Infectious indie-pop from Brighton, winning over audiences with every show they play. 10th November: Haelos – Renowned for their space-age R&B, Haelos spin warped trip-hop with dreamy vocals to glorious effect.
M I X S E R I ES
ROUNDHOUSE The Roundhouse is one of London’s iconic venues, the former railway shed in Chalk Farm being an essential part of the Camden landscape. Open for more than 50 years, it hosted The Doors’ only UK appearance in 1968 and history hangs heavy in the air. Some of our highlights from over the years include Four Tet, Beirut, Kurt Vile and Andrew Bird. Upcoming shows: 4th & 5th October: WILD BEASTS – Wild Beasts have evolved over the last 10 years and 5 albums from indierockers to more synth based explorations. 24th October: CLEAN BANDIT – pop royalty Clean Bandit shot to stardom in 2013 when they released the infectiously catchy single ‘Rather Be’ featuring Jess Glynne. Their mix of catchy electronica with classical composers such as Mozart struck a chord with many people and they have since sold millions of records worldwide.
SHACKLEWELL ARMS Sitting slightly off the main Dalston strip, this ex-Caribbean local pub turned hipster hangout has hosted some of our sweatiest, packed out gigs. Past highlights include TOY’s month long residency, Skrillex’s surprise DJ set, The Horrors album launch and King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard’s 7 piece band (with 2 drum kits) cramming onto the stage for an electrifying set! Upcoming shows: 26th Sept: HAUX – Singer-songwriter Haux has been compared to the likes of Bon Iver, Daughter and LANY, with an elegant combination of soulful vocals and glowing synths. 30th Oct: A second night of exciting up and coming bands to celebrate ROUGH TRADE’S 40TH ANNIVERSARY!
VILL AGE UNDERGROUND Part creative community, part arts venue, Village Underground is a nonprofit space for creativity and culture in the heart of East London. Over the years we’ve put on a wide selection of shows there, including The xx, Major Lazer, Neneh Cherry, Sean Kuti, and Jagwar Ma. A particular highlight was our daytime rave co-programmed with Four Tet running from 8am to 8pm! Upcoming shows: 6th Oct: MEILYR JONES – Welsh songwriter Meilyr Jones is a fantastically unique and offbeat performer, taking in everything from orchestrated chamber pop to indie soul, all in a pleasingly unexpected way. 25th Oct: FORMATION – London duo Formation draw comparisons to like-minded spirits such as Liquid Liquid, ESG, The Rapture and Arthur Russell.
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AFROPUNK Comes to London It’s not just a festival —it’s an ethos
WORDS by Jessica Spires
In case you haven’t heard, ground-breaking NYC festival AFROPUNK is making its way across the Atlantic to London for 2016. An explosive celebration of multiculturalism and diversity, AFROPUNK isn’t just a festival, it’s an ethos - an attitude to life which eschews any form of discrimination and initiates positive conversations. Taking place at London’s Alexandra Palace on September 24th, the (unsurprisingly) varied line-up includes the iconic Grace Jones, Skinny Girl Diet, Kwabs and more. 76
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To you - what is AFROPUNK? Afro: as in, born of African spirit and heritage; see also black (not always), see also rhythm and color, see also other, see also underdog. Punk: as in, rebel, opposing the simple route, imbued with a DIY ethic, looking forward with simplicity, rawness and open curiosity; see also other, see also underdog. AFROPUNK is defining culture by the collective creative actions of the individual and the group. It is a safe place, a blank space to freak out in, to construct a new reality, to live your life as you see fit, while making sense of the world around you.
MATTHEW MORGAN AFROPUNK FOUNDER
Do you think AFROPUNK has a specific style? The politics of style is really important to us, but the idea of any one style becomes more fashion which is much less important to us. Who are you most looking forward to seeing at the festival? I’m the most excited about seeing the people. I’m born and bred in London. I left 15 years ago and its changed since then, I’m excited to witness that. How would you describe your personal style? Simple and black, black being the colour. I keep it as simple as possible. Where do you look for style inspiration? I’m constantly inspired, but I have a very strong sense of style mostly inspired by architecture and design. What would we be most likely to listening to on a standard day? Kendrick, Letlive, Sonyhoy Blues, Tinariwen, Amasa Hines What’s your favourite song right now? Protoje - Who Knows ft. Chronixx What’s your current obsession? Donald Trump’s racist ass, adidas Originals’ NMD sneakers, Crabby Shack on Franklin Ave, and Don Letts – a new film about reggae’s influence on punk. What makes London an ideal backdrop for AFROPUNK? London is my hometown - I grew up in the East End, so it seems pretty fitting. Where’s your favourite place to go in London? So when I get off the plane I drive directly to the Water Margin - a Chinese restaurant in Golders Green.
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CAMPBELL ADDY PHOTOGRAPHER To you - what is AFROPUNK? It’s mixture of style and attitude. It’s an expression of freedom and joy. It makes me feel welcome. It’s about being to be who you want and expressing yourself.
SKINNY GIRL DIET BAND
Do you think AFROPUNK has a specific style? I don’t think so – punk is more of an attitude for me. To infuse PUNK with AFRO just means to defy the norms and push margins with your creativity, be it through musical endeavours or style.
To you - what is AFROPUNK? Celebrating often overlooked people and putting them in the spotlight, where they should be. So often we are creating and doing amazing things yet they are either ignored, or expected to exceed an impossibly higher standard than white people. It’s about fighting inequality of all kinds. It’s a celebration of diversity in the face of adversity.
Who are you most looking forward to seeing at the festival? Grace Jones, of course! My boyfriend and I saw her at the Brooklyn AFROPUNK in 2015. It was mind blowing - the connection she had with the audience was incredible.
Do you think AFROPUNK has a specific style? No. AFROPUNK fights stereotyping and everyone has an individual style.
How would you describe your personal style? I’d describe it as chill. I like to be comfortable but also considered. Nothing too tight, nothing too loose. My friends will tell you I’m a sucker for a good pair of dungarees!
Who are you most looking forward to seeing at the festival? Grace Jones is an absolute legend. How would you describe your personal style? Whatever we feel like wearing in the morning!
Where do you look for style inspiration? My friends inspire me a lot; we are a very eclectic mix of people so I love finding inspiration in them. I also look at a lot of musicians such as Kanye West. My style isn’t necessarily reminiscent of his style, but I take some parts and add a little bit of Campbell Addy to it.
Where do you look for style inspiration? Style can come from anything; it should be a natural thing and not copied from anyone. We don’t follow trends - we express ourselves through clothing.
What would we be most likely to listening to on a standard day? Right now I’m in love with Kelsey Lu, Tame Impala, Arca, Sade and Dream Koala.
What would we be most likely to listening to on a standard day? If its a chill day Erykah Badu. If it’s a crazy day, Nirvana. What’s your favourite song right now? Abner Jay - I’m so depressed.
What’s your favourite song right now? Baltimore by Nina Simone. She’s an all-time favourite.
What’s your current obsession? Amelia: Pokemon Go. Delilah: Staying focused. Ursula: Acting.
What’s your current obsession? My puppy Wolfgang, he’s only 6 months old. What makes London an ideal backdrop for AFROPUNK? It’s a very diverse city. But what I think makes London a very interesting space for AFROPUNK is that it has its own sense of style and creativity.
What makes London an ideal backdrop for AFROPUNK? It’s a very multicultural and creative city. Where’s your favourite place to go in London? Amelia: Home is where our hearts are. Delilah: Garlic and Shots, the vampire bar in soho! Ursula: The Shacklewell Arms.
Where’s your favourite place to go in London? I love walking around the big parks late at night. It’s a good way to clear your mind.
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“WE’RE GROWING WITH A MUTUAL LOVE FOR INDIVIDUALITY, AND SUPPORTING ONE ANOTHER TO CREATE A POSITIVE FUTURE.”
M I X S E R I ES
PURPLE FERDINAND SINGER / SONGWRITER
To you - what is AFROPUNK? It’s a subculture; a melting pot of roots being portrayed by a new generation. It’s a group of individuals being unapologetically themselves. It’s a a platform for ethnic artists and people with worldwide experiences. For me, it feels like we are a community. We’re growing with a mutual love for individuality, and supporting one another to create a positive future. Do you think AFROPUNK has a specific style? No, I don’t think so. It’s very diverse.. Each of us have such unique experiences, I feel like AFROPUNK is the place we can share some of our wonderful differences. Who are you most looking forward to seeing at the festival? My friend CKTRL is DJing and I’m always living for my friends. Aaand SZA! I’ve been waiting a few years now to see that angel sing live. How would you describe your personal style? Teenage angst meets romance. I guess what I mean by that is I’m comfortable dressed like I would when I was younger, in a tracksuit or combats, but I like to pair that with an embroidered top. Where do you look for style inspiration? All around me every day. London gives you an interesting perspective; I live in East London and I’m surrounded by so many cultures that it would be impossible not to be inspired. What would we be most likely to listening to on a standard day? There is no standard day for me. On my shuffle you’ll find a mix of like... Dwele to Sum41 to Patsy Cline to Sizzla - my music collection is like a crazy cave of wonders. What’s your favourite song right now? Robert Glasper, Miles Davis and Bilal - Ghetto Walkin’. What’s your current obsession? Growing cacti. I was given one a few years ago, and then I started growing them myself. Do they have new sprouts, need feeding, watering, or less sun? It’s a pleasant distraction. What makes London an ideal backdrop for AFROPUNK? London is one of the most diverse places you can go, which I feel is necessary for a city that’s hosting the festival. Where’s your favourite place to go in London? Stratford. I was born and bred in the area and there’s something about it I will always love. Whether sat at my Grandparents’ garden or having a drink at the Theatre Royal, I feel like it’s got enough options to keep you happy but it still feels local enough to have a modesty about it.
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Volume Two
CHARDINE TAYLOR–STONE PUNK LONDON DRUMMER, BUG JOANIE To you - what is AFROPUNK? It’s celebrating the idea that you can be black and weird, without that being attributed to wanting to be white. AFROPUNK has created a positive space to have positive conversations about difference within our own community. Now we have AFROPUNK lots of people have connected, formed friendships, and even bands, because we now have the language to explain our experience. You aren’t ‘less black’ because you’d rather listen to a punk band than some bashment. You can love both and it isn’t paradoxical. Do you think AFROPUNK has a specific style? I think now there’s a definite AFROPUNK look which can’t be denied. Braids, headwraps and looking like an extra from A Different World. I hope that it moves beyond a fashion statement on Instagram and into a deeper exploration of the self and one’s place in the world. Who are you most looking forward to seeing at the festival? Grace Jones, Grace Jones and did I say GRACE JONES. The woman is an icon. Also Don Letts and Akala. You couldn’t put on AFROPUNK without Don, a man that essentially defined it before most of us were born. How would you describe your personal style? I spent my teens and 20s on the punk and rockabilly scene so I love 50s and 60s style. I’ve mellowed out a bit and am not such a revivalist nowadays so I mix things up with some modern stuff, which is 1990s for me! Where do you look for style inspiration? Old films, TV shows and record covers. What would we be most likely to listening to on a standard day? I am a music nerd so my taste is pretty vast. It can be Northern soul, Rocksteady, Punk and rockabilly on Monday then FKA Twigs, Frankie Knuckles and Soul II Soul on Tuesday then Ann Briggs, Fairport Convention and The Incredible String Band on Wednesday. It really depends on my mood. What’s your favourite song right now? The last song I listened to was Dag Nasty’s ‘Under your Influence’. What’s your current obsession? I’ve just moved house so decorating and looking at pictures of washing machines and cookers at the moment. Totally uncool. What makes London an ideal backdrop for AFROPUNK? Because it’s London and we’ve always done Punk better than anyone else. Sorry NYC people but you know it’s true. Welcome home AFROPUNK!
AFROPUNK takes place at London’s Alexandra Palace on the 24th September. Tickets are priced at £55 and available from www.afropunkfest.com.
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ACNE STUDIOS ADIDAS BY KOLOR ADIDAS BY RAF SIMONS ADIDAS BY RICK OWENS ADIDAS ORIGINALS ADIEU ALL BLUES AMI A.P.C. AYAME C6 CANADA GOOSE CASIO CMMN SWDN COMMON PROJECTS COMME DES GARCONS SHIRT COMME DES GARCONS WALLET COTE ET CIEL CUTLER AND GROSS DRIES VAN NOTEN DR. JACKSON’S ÉDITIONS MR EDWIN ETQ AMSTERDAM EYTYS FILLING PIECES GANRYU GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY
NEIL BARRETT NIKE OAMC OFFICINE CREATIVE OFFICINE GENERAL OUR LEGACY PAUL SMITH PORTER PUMA RAF SIMONS REEBOK RETAW RICK OWENS RICK OWENS DRKSHDW SATURDAYS SURF NYC SHOES LIKE POTTTERY SPALWART STONE ISLAND STONE ISLAND SHADOW PROJECT STUTTERHEIM SUNSPEL THIERRY LASRY THOM BROWNE THOM KROM TOM WOOD UNIFORM WARES VALENTINO
HELMUT LANG HAIDER ACKERMANN IIUVO ILLESTEVA LANVIN LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING LINDA FARROW MAISON MARGIELA MARNI MATTHEW MILLER MYKITA MIANSAI
YEEZY YVES SALOMON WANT LES ESSENTIELS WHITE MOUNTAINEERING WOOYOUNGMI Y-3 288
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