IRELAND
S T. P AT R I C K ’S D AY 1 7 T H M A R C H 2 0 0 8
contents What’s inside this issue of Ireland 2008 4. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Susan Buckland explores the many hidden treasures of Ireland. 6. THE SPORTING IRISH Robert Tighe looks at the part sport plays in Irish life. 8. IRELAND’S LAKELANDS & INLAND WATERWAYS Discover the magic of Ireland’s waterways. 11. FIND YOUR ROOTS Readers get a chance to win a trip to Ireland to trace their Irish ancestors. 12. GO WEST YOUNG MAN Susan Buckland on the people and places of the west coast of Ireland.
EDITOR
Oliver Lee
CONTRIBUTORS
14. TRAVEL TIPS A few helpful hints for your next trip to Ireland. 15. ST. PATRICK’S DAY 2008 There is lots to do around New Zealand to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day.
Robert Tighe, Susan Buckland
16. WHAT’S HAPPENING We look at some of the major events in Ireland over the next 12 months.
DESIGN and LAYOUT
18. IRISH WORKING HOLIDAYS A young New Zealander describes some of the highlights of her trip to Ireland.
PRINTING
19. IN DUBLIN’S FAIR CITY Dublin is regarded as one of the best cities in Europe to visit and here is your guide to make the most of your visit.
Blue Star Print Integrated Solutions. Ph 0-9-477 2500 APN Print, Auckland
PUBLISHER
J Oliver Lee & Associates Ltd PO Box 331-667, Takapuna, Auckland, New Zealand Phone 0-9-486 6966 Fax 0-9-486 6955
20. GOLFING IN IRELAND Ireland offers golfers the complete package. 22. SAILING HOME Robert Tighe explains how the Volvo Ocean Race will benefit sailing in Ireland. 24. AGAINST THE ODDS A young Irishman who lost both legs in a tragic accident plans to walk off the plane when he gets home to Ireland.
email: oliverlee@xtra.co.nz
26. MUSIC MAKERS Talented Irish musicians making their mark on the world stage.
PHOTOGRAPHY
28. NORTHERN IRELAND Visit a region with an amazing variety of scenery and attractions.
Courtesy of Failte Ireland © COPYRIGHT: Reproduction in whole or part by any means is prohibited. The opinions expressed in this magazine do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. Although material is checked for accuracy, no liability is assumed by the publisher for any loss due to use of material in this magazine.
29. IRISH WHISKEY What makes Jameson Irish Whiskey the world’s most popular Irish whiskey?
SEE ADVERT ON PAGE 9 OF THIS MAGAZINE TO WIN A VIP TRIP TO IRELAND’S LAKELANDS AND INLAND WATERWAYS’… FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION LOG ON TO:
www.discoverireland.co.nz
Off the beaten track in Ireland by Susan Buckland STICKING TO A SCHEDULED ITINERARY in Ireland is like trying to mix oil with water. As soon as you engage with the locals your best laid plans come unstuck. Irish people are beguiling to be sure and it is hard not to make new friends. Talk runs free and has you diverting down byways in pursuit of the ‘craic,’ an Irish word that means everything from sparkling company and music to partying into the wee hours. Ask a stranger the way to Clonakilty and the directions may unfold with a potted local history as each landmark in the general direction is ticked off.
“Brenda O’Reilly once lived in the cottage by the bridge you’ll cross,” I was told. “The village witch, she was. But a good witch, they say. And on the hill above the cottage is the ruin. They say it dates back to before the time of St. Patrick, God rest his soul.” The colourful account is as enveloping as good theatre and you find yourself unable to resist climbing the hill to see the ruin with its view over the cottage where the mysterious Brenda O’Reilly lived long ago. And once again your travel schedule floats off on the breeze in favour of the moment. Ireland’s history is never far from the roadside. A journey through town and country will take you through thousands of years of human
“Ireland Calling” If you want to keep up to date with the news from Ireland, hear the best of Irish Music and find out what’s happening in the Irish community in New Zealand tune into…
“Ireland Calling” with Oliver Lee on...
Planet FM 104.6 Auckland and Access Radio Wellington 783AM EVERY WEDNESDAY 10PM and on Plains FM 96.9 in Christchurch EVERY SATURDAY 10PM
04
settlement. Pre-historic stone monuments, Norman castles and medieval villages are ever present reminders of the country’s ancient past. Thousands of years before the Celts began arriving in Ireland the first settlers had arrived from northern Britain. St. Patrick came next to establish his mission in the country and to spread the gospel of Christ.
The monastic abbeys that were built, many on the sacred sites of Ireland’s earliest inhabitants, were plundered by the Vikings in the 8th and 9th centuries. Today the ruins of the abbeys and Norman castles built several centuries later rise ethereally from the landscape and give rise to the myths and legends that permeate Irish folklore. The web of dry stone walls across the countryside, holding fast after hundreds of years, call to mind the generations of Irish who built them rock by rock and worked the fields they enclose. Past struggles and yearnings are evoked by the haunting strains of traditional Irish music while the exuberant jigs express joyful abandonment. In pubs around the country the spontaneous out pouring of song and dance is infectious. Buttoned up foreigners toss inhibitions aside and join in. The green of the countryside is helped along by reliable rainfall and the many golf courses around Ireland lap it up. Golf may or may not be on your itinerary until you hear about a course where the greens run to the shore and the coastal views are enough to destroy your handicap. Naturally this calls for another detour off the highway. Next you hear about the leisure craft that ply the channels from Northern Ireland down into the heart of the Republic. These riverboats meander along the canals, stopping at towns and villages en route. What a way to travel. Back on the road you head to Northern Ireland to the Giant’s Causeway, an extraordinary rocky landscape in County Antrim; to the fabled mountains of Mourne in County Down;
to Northern Ireland’s lively capital of Belfast. South awaits Dublin, capital of the republic with its Georgian boulevards, venerable Trinity College, a rich literary history and the vibrant clubs of Temple Bar. From the Giant’s Causeway Coastal route in the north to the Famous Ring of Kerry in the south you can be sure of one thing as you travel around Ireland. Expect the unexpected.
TOM KENNY (FROM SLIGO), OWNER OF YO YU BREW ON 67 SHORTLAND STREET WOULD LIKE TO INVITE EVERYBODY TO SAMPLE A PINT OF MURPHYS AND SOME SODA BREAD AND OYSTERS ON ST. PATRICK’S DAY.
PH 09 377 5755 EMAIL: INFO@YOYUBREW.CO.NZ 05
ireland hoping for better luck this year Robert Tighe looks forward to a better year for Irish sport IT HAS BEEN A DIFFICULT 12 months for Irish sports fans. The soccer team failed to qualify for the European Championships while the much hyped rugby team lost their way completely at the World Cup in France. It was left to golfer Padraig Harrington and the Irish cricket team to provide the highlights of 2007.
Harrington became the first Irish golfer to win a major for 60 years when he scored a dramatic win over Sergio Garcia in a four-hole playoff at Carnoustie in Scotland. Harrington seemed to have blown his opportunity when he hit two balls into the water on the 18th and walked off with a double bogey to give Garcia a lifeline in the playoff. However the down to earth Irishman with the goofy smile and the geeky walk held his nerve to win the playoff by one hole. Harrington has the game to win more majors and he is likely to be a key member of Nick Faldo’s European Ryder Cup side which takes on the USA at Valhalla Golf Course in Kentucky from September 16 - 21. The Irish cricket team’s performance at the World Cup in the West Indies was overshadowed by the death of Pakistan coach Bob Woolmer after his side’s shock defeat against the Irish. After qualifying for the World Cup for the first time, Ireland produced a series of stunning performances beating Pakistan and drawing with Zimbabwe in the group stages and ending the tournament with a win over Bangladesh. But it was the win over Pakistan, one of the biggest shocks in the history of world cricket, which will be remembered for a very long time.
CREDIT:PHOTOSPORT
Former Irish soccer manager Steve Staunton will want to forget the last two years of his life. Staunton was appointed manager of the Republic of Ireland in January 2006 but after a disastrous European Championship qualifying campaign which included a 5-2 defeat against minnows Cyprus, Staunton was sacked in October last year. It took the FAI four months to appoint a new manager, but there is genuine hope that Italian Giovanni Trappatoni can turn around the fortunes of the Irish side.
Sections • Mt Albert • Tauranga • Albany
Commercial and Retail Properties
(09) 622 3800 (021) 906 433 brigid@hgg.co.nz
Livestock Auctions 06
All Irish eyes will be on Trappatoni’s first game in charge against Serbia on May 24. However the real test will be the start of the World Cup qualifying campaign which gets under way against Georgia on Sept 6. Irish rugby fans will be hoping the soccer team puts in a better performance against the Georgians than their rugby counterparts managed in the World Cup in France. Ireland had a dismal World Cup, the lowlight being the 14-10 victory over Georgia which the men in green tried desperately hard to lose. There have been signs of a return to form in the current Six Nations but the chances of recording a first ever win over the All Blacks in a one off test in Wellington on June 7th look slim at best. A better bet for the Irish might be the return fixture in November when the All Blacks play Ireland in Croke Park in Dublin as part of the end of season Grand Slam tour. There are also ongoing negotiations to organise a rematch between the All Blacks and Munster which could see Doug Howlett line up for Munster against New Zealand. The match would also be significant because of the history between the sides. Back in 1978 Munster denied the All Blacks a Grand Slam with a famous 12-0 victory. Meanwhile the future of the controversial International Rules series between Ireland and Australia remains in doubt. The hybrid game which combines Australian Rules football and Gaelic Football has proven very popular with fans in Australia and Ireland but the series has been marred by on the field violence. In contrast the Gaelic Games of football and hurling remain the most popular sports in the country with Croke Park, the 80,000 seater stadium in Dublin which is the home of Gaelic Games, selling out for the big games during the summer.
Summer in Ireland also sees thousands of people flock to the racing festivals in some of the big courses around the country in places like Leopardstown, the Curragh, Listowel, Tralee and Galway. The Galway Races in July is one of the most popular racing festivals in the Irish calendar. Politicians and priests, high society types and lowlifes, professional gamblers and amateur chancers all congregate in Galway on the west coast for a week of debauchery and devilment. At the Galway Races it is not so much about winning and losing as it is about having a good time. And sailing enthusiasts who visit Galway for the Volvo Ocean Race in June 2009 are guaranteed a good time as one of the most vibrant towns in Ireland hosts one of the final legs of the round the world yacht race.
07
Magic and majesty of the waterways of Ireland OUR MAGICAL LAKELANDS and INLANDS WATERWAYS have been an essential part of the very fabric of Irish life down through the centuries. The beauty, the mystery, and the essential calmness of our great lakes and intricately woven rivers, continue to inspire us, and spark a passion in us as a people. The life-force of water especially inspires us, whether we live close to the lakes and river’s edge, or visit these special places to replenish our spirits. There are 10 zones within Ireland’s Lakeland’s and Inland Waterways, each with its own distinctive character. Together they form a spellbinding stretch of water from Beleek in the far west of Fermanagh, cutting down through the heart of the country to where the Shannon meets the sea.
This is cruising country – no experience or license required
Cultural events and a great choice of activities, on and off the water, are offered. Mile after mile, whether moving by land or water, we are met by warm and engaging people, lively hospitality, and a quality of food and accommodation which is always memorable and enriching.
Strolling along the lakeshore in Ireland’s Lakelands and Inland Waterways
While on a stopover at Athlone you are close to Clonmacnoise, an ancient monastic site built in 545 by Saint Ciarán. You are also close to the Slieve Bloom Mountains where you can enjoy a variety of walks. Boat cruises on the Shannon are very popular and you can captain your own destiny on a voyage of discovery with Emerald Star. If you prefer dry land with unrivalled views play a round of golf at Glasson Golf Club. Peace and contemplation on Lough Ree
Hiking in the Slieve Blooms
The gentle and inviting nature of the people and the places, perfectly compliments the myriad of activities available. Sailing, fishing along the Lakeshore, hiking in the nearby Slieve Bloom Mountains or along the canal and golfing are all on offer to locals and visitors alike. For further information on Ireland’s Lakeland’s and Inland Waterways please visit www.discoverireland.ie/lakelands 08
www.discoverireland.co.nz
Have you got a bit of irish in you? Be in with a chance to win a trip to the Emerald Isle GO GREEN and get to the root of your family tree at www.gogreenireland.co.nz an interactive, fun and easy way to f ind your Irish ancestry. Tracing your Irish ancestry is about more than finding out where you came from. It’s about discovering who you are. One in five New Zealander’s have Irish origins – and this is reflected in the national character. The humour; the sense of self mockery; ideals of fair play are all characteristics both Irish and kiwi. Over the last 200 years many Irish have settled in New Zealand. It is not surprising therefore that many descendants are compelled to discover the land of their forefathers. Uncovering the roots of your family tree can turn a trip to Ireland into the trip of a lifetime. However you choose to undertake your search, you’ll find lots of help along the way. Come visit the land of your ancestors, and come home! For more information visit www.gogreenireland.co.nz TVNZ, Air New Zealand and Tourism Ireland are offering one lucky person and a friend the chance to win a trip to Ireland to trace your Irish ancestor. Visit www.tvnz.co.nz Keyword: Breakfast. Here you can download an entry form and if you are the lucky winner you’ll be on your way to Ireland.
11
Go west young man, go west Susan Buckland is captivated by the west coast of Ireland Trees are largely absent on this coastal stretch of Galway swept clean by the prevailing wind. The cottage’s new owners are not concerned about the absence of trees. Nor are they bothered by the rundown house with its tiny ablution hut at the end of the garden. They have paid an astonishing price for the property in an area that Siobhan knows and loves. She admits that such properties are increasingly being snapped up by the cognoscenti. “The buyers, mostly from populated parts of Ireland, England and the continent, have discovered the wide open spaces, fresh air and rugged beauty of the western arm of our country,” says Siobhan. “They’ve noticed the new golf course running alongside the ocean. They delve into our villages and the pubs that anchor them. Music, Guinness and good company – there’s plenty of good craic to be had here.” ‘Craic’ (good times) is an often-heard word on a journey through Ireland’s West.
ARCHITECT SIOBHAN MULCAHY surveys the cottage she has been asked to restore, an original crofter’s dwelling on a far west point of Ireland. A hundred metres from the door of the diminutive cottage, the Atlantic Ocean beats onto the shore and surfers in wet suits ride the pounding waves.
12
The region extends from Clare in the mid-west to Sligo in the north and is bordered to the east by the River Shannon. In between are lofty mountains falling to lush valleys and bog lands patterned by tepees of cut and drying turf. On the coast, cliffs drop sheer to the Atlantic with sea birds wheeling in the spray of the ocean. Connemara ponies fossick on the quieter shores of the wildly beautiful area after which they are named. Connemara is one of four national parks in the West. The others are Glenveagh in Donegal, Owenduff in Mayo and Clare boasts the improbably rocky Burren. County Clare is also a stronghold of traditional Irish music although the same could be said of most
of the west. The colourful coastal village of Doolin is besieged every summer by Irish music fans flocking to the annual festival. In their holiday cottage in Connemara, Siobhan and her husband Brendan have a library of books written by poets and painters drawn to the moody magic of the West, by the play of light on stone-walled fields, the heather clad hills and lakes like Lough Corrib, surrounded by forest and alive with brown trout during the warmer months. Brendan, a master of the art of conversation like many of his compatriots, explains that being so far west, the days are long (not to mention the nights when the craic is good). And touring with Brendan flushes out the local highlights as well as Ireland’s pervasive sense of community. He takes his guests up the hill behind the cottage to the monument to Alcock and Brown, the pair who were first to fly the Atlantic. They crash landed near Clifden in June 1919, close to where Guglielmo Marconi had set up his first transatlantic wireless telegraph station some 13 years before. Brendan introduces visitors to the tiny pubs that double as grocery stores and homes for their owners. And over a Guinness he is eloquent about why a trip to the west should not bypass Kylemore Abbey and the cosmopolitan city of Galway. “Everyone gravitates to Galway’s old centre. And for goodness sake you can’t be missing the cliffs of Moher – or standing too close to the edge with the Atlantic hitting them with the force of an uninterrupted journey of several thousand kilometres from the east.
“But you will be wanting to try the chowder at Vaughan’s Pub in Liscannor and seeing the fishing village of Roundstone. Take away the cars and you’ll feel you were in a film set in the 1800s. Speaking of which, many films have been made in Galway and Mayo. But I have to tell you that it was my uncle who rode the horse in the 1952 classic, The Quiet Man. Not John Wayne.”
13
travelling around Ireland It’s never been easier! NO MATTER WHERE YOU GO on holidays it’s important to do some research and planning before you leave home. Ireland as a destination has a lot to offer the visitor and with limited time it’s important to make the most of your visit. Maybe you want to explore the beautiful Southwest of Ireland by staying in a family-run Bed & Breakfast on the Ring of Kerry where you will be greeted with a warm welcome. Or you might opt for the livelier option of the world-renowned Cork Jazz Festival and take in a trip to beautiful Blarney Castle while you are at it. For breathtaking scenery and coastal features, the Cliffs of Moher is a
14
must with spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and memories that will last a lifetime. Of course a trip to Ireland is not complete without a visit to the capital city of Dublin where you can visit the famous Guinness brewery and maybe even take the opportunity to enjoy a pint of the black stuff. The lively Temple Bar area is always a very popular choice with visitors and is a fine example of how cosmopolitan Dublin has become in recent years. There are endless options on hand in the Emerald Isle where the locals always greet visitors with a warm smile. Goireland.com, Ireland’s leading Tourism website, offers you everything you need when planning your next trip to Ireland. Whether it is places to see, directions, walking holidays or booking your accommodation – goireland.com is the place for you.
what’s happening on St. Patrick’s day Lots to do to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day WHEN IRISH EYES ARE SMILING Sure tis like a morn in Spring… Yes Irish eyes and the eyes of the Irish diaspora around the world will be smiling tomorrow, March 17 for St. Patrick’s Day when people with or without Irish connections wear something green to celebrate the feast day of the man who brought the faith to Ireland in 432AD.
St. Patrick’s Day is a day of joy and fun – so why not dress up in something green tomorrow and visit an Irish pub or club and celebrate the feast day of Ireland’s saint with your family and friends – where Irish eyes will be smiling!
Throughout New Zealand many people will start the day with an early morning breakfast at one of the many Irish pubs while listening to Irish music and watching exhibitions of Irish dancing. Special masses and religious services will be celebrated throughout the day in churches in many parts of New Zealand. The Green Fire Islands tour of New Zealand concludes with a concert at the Aotea Centre in Auckland tomorrow night at 8pm. www.greenfireislands.com. Well known Irish singer/songwriter Donal Lunny and a group of Irish musicians have teamed up with a group of New Zealand’s top traditional Maori musicians and dancers and they have been performing throughout New Zealand over the last week. They will be joined on stage by Neil Finn tomorrow night and tickets are still available at www.ticketek.co.nz.
15
events ireland 2008 What’s happening around Ireland over the next 12 months Below please f ind some of the sites you should visit when planning your next trip to the Emerald Isle. Also listed are some of the key events taking place in Ireland over the next 12 months. Irish Tourist Board, New Zealand www.discoverireland.co.nz
FISHING Ireland is recognised as one of the best fishing destinations in Europe – so if you plan to do some fishing on your next visit to Ireland check out www.cfb.ie
GOLF
Northern Ireland Tourist Board www.discovernorthernireland.com Lakelands & Inland Waterways www.discoverireland.ie/lakelands Ireland’s Western Regions www.gowestireland.com Dublin Tourism www.visitdublin.com
ARTS FESTIVALS
There are over 300 golf courses in Ireland and if you are a keen golfer you can visit www.gui.ie to find out more about playing golf in Ireland. The Irish Open will take place this year at the Adare Golf Club between May 15-18 www.irishopenatadaremanor.com There are plenty of arts festivals in Ireland each year. Check out Cork Midsummer Festival, June 15-July 5, www.corkfestival.com Galway Arts Festival 14-27 July www.galwayartsfestival.com Waterford Spraoi Festival, 1-3 August, www.spraoi.com Kilkenny Arts Festival August 8-17 www.kilkennyarts.ie
GAELIC GAMES
MOTORSPORT Ireland will host a round of the 2009 World Rally Championship between 29 January - 1 February 2009. Following the success of last year’s event the rally will take place in the North West of Ireland www.rallyireland.org or www.motorsportireland.com Other popular motors sport events are the North West 200 from 11-17 May www.northwest200.org and the Donegal International Rally which takes place from June 13-15 – www.donegalinternationalrally.com
HORSE RACING Horse Racing is one of great pastimes for the Irish and a visit to Ireland would not be complete without attending one of the many race meetings at the 27 race courses in Ireland. For more information about Horse Racing in Ireland visit www.goracing.ie
The Irish have been playing Gaelic Football and Hurling since 1884 and visitors to Ireland over the Summer months will be able to see the great rivalry between the teams and the fans if they attend one of the many Football and Hurling games that take place. Some of the key games to check out are the Munster Football Final (June 29), Leinster Hurling Final (July 6), Munster Hurling Final and Connacht Football Final (July 13), Leinster and Ulster Football Finals (July 20), The Football and Hurling Semi-finals take place in Croke Park Dublin in August and the All Ireland Hurling Final is on Sunday 7 September and the Football Final on 21 September. For more information on Gaelic Games in Ireland visit www.gaa.ie 16
Some of the key festival meetings throughout the year are: Punchestown National Hunt Festival, Co.Kildare April 20-26 www.punchestown.com Irish Derby Festival, The Curragh, Co. Kildare June 27-29, Galway Racing Festival July 28-August 2, September 8-10 www.galwayraces.com Listowel Races September 14-20 and Leopardstown Christmas Racing Festival, Co. Dublin December 26-29. If you are interested in Equestrian events the Dublin Horse Show runs from 6-10 August 2008 www.dublinhorseshow.com
Ireland’s leading news and information website www.ireland.com
LITERARY FESTIVALS Book fairs and literary festival events are very popular in Ireland throughout the year and some of the more popular festivals include Listowel Writers Week, Co. Kerry – May 28-June 1 www.writersweek.ie Bloomsday Festival, Dublin June 16 www.jamesjoyce.ie W.B.Yeats summer school, Sligo 26 July – 8 August 2008 www.yeats-sligo.com
MARATHONS If you want to run a marathon in Ireland in 2008 you can choose a marathon in Belfast 5 May www.belfastcitymarathon.com Cork 2 June www.corkcitymarathon.ie Longford 24 August www.longfordmarathon.com and Dublin 27 October www.adidasdublinmarathon.ie
SAILING The Volvo Ocean Race visits Galway in the West Coast of Ireland in June 2009 www.volvooceanrace.org Throughout the year there are many sailing events taking place in Ireland and if you are a keen sailor and want to sail during your next visit to Ireland visit www.sailing.ie for more information. One of the highlights on the Irish Sailing Calendar is the ACC Bank Cork Week which takes place between July 12-18. For more information visit www.accbankcorkweek.ie
WALKING AND CYCLING
MUSIC FESTIVALS Throughout the Summer months there are many music festivals in Ireland – some of the popular festivals are Oxgen festival, Punchestown Racecourse, Co. Kildare July 11-13 www.oxegen.ie Prince Concert, Croke Park, Dublin 16 June 2008 Traditional Music – Ballyshannon Folk Festival, Donegal, 1-3 August www.ballyshannonfolkfestival.com – World Fleadh, August 17-24, Tullamore, Co. Offaly www.fleadh2008.com, Cork Jazz Festival, October 24-27 www.corkjazzfestival.com
OYSTER FESTIVALS There are a number of Oyster Festivals in Ireland in September – Hillsborough Oyster Festival www.hillsboroughoysterfestival.com Clarenbridge Oyster Festival, Co. Galway 12-14 September www.clarenbridge.com and the Galway International Oyster Festival 25-28 September www.galwayoysterfest.com
RUGBY
A great way to meet the locals is to take a walking or cycling holiday in Ireland – for more information visit www.discoverireland.ie/walking or www.cyclingsafaris.com If you would like to join a group of Kiwis on a walking tour of the West of Ireland visit www.walkthewestofireland.com The 2007 Tour of Ireland Cycle race takes place between August 22-26 www.tourofireland.ie
CREDIT:PHOTOSPORT
ULSTER HISTORICAL FOUNDATION
Searching for elusive Irish ancestors? Visit www.ancestryireland.com
Ulster Historical Foundation
Ireland will play All Blacks twice this year – the first game will be at Westpac Stadium in Wellington on June 7 and the second game will take place at the home of Gaelic Games in Ireland – Croke Park, Dublin on 15 November in front of 82,000 fans. At time of print – negotiations were taking place about the possibility of the All Blacks playing Munster in Thomond Park in Limerick. Yes it is 30 years since the famous game in Limerick and just in case you do not remember the score Munster 12-0 All Blacks! We may yet see Doug Howlett play against the All Blacks! For more information on Irish Rugby www.irishrugby.ie
Cotton Court, Waring St, Belfast, BT1 2ED Tel: +44(0)28 9033 2288 • Email: enquiry@uhf.org.uk
OTHER FESTIVALS Puck Fair Killorglin, Co.Kerry 10-12 August www.puckfair.ie National Ploughing Championship, Kilkenny 23-25 September www.npa.ie International Garden Festival, Co.Laois 29 June – 23 September www.igf.ie 17
lasting impression of Working holiday A young NZer writes about her experiences on a working holiday in Ireland I WAS WON OVER BY IRELAND the second I got there. So much so that I ended up living there twice, it’s just that good. To me living in a country means experiencing everything that is unique to that country’s identity and culture; from sport, to music, to food, to visiting ancient ruins. I covered it all in Ireland. One of the big highlights for me was getting tickets to the All Ireland Championships for both Gaelic football and hurling. These two sports are national obsessions for Irish people. Immerse yourself in a live game and you’ll soon understand why. Hurling and Gaelic football to the Irish are what rugby is to Kiwis. I highly recommend checking them out. When I wasn’t watching the local sporting obsession I kept myself busy working, catching loads of live music and exploring the country with friends on my days off. The great thing about Ireland is that it is small, making it easy to travel around and experience all that the various towns and cities have to offer. Naturally I took advantage of this and saw as much of Ireland as I could. Highlights included spending time in the funky student town Galway, visiting ancient monastic settlement ruins in Glendalough, and making my way around the stunning Ring of Kerry. Ireland is never far from my mind and I don’t doubt that I will be back there soaking up more of its enchantment very soon. And with
18
IEP’s Work Ireland programme there is no easier way of getting there and hitting the ground running – heaps of support, three nights accommodation, visa and job assistance and much more is all included.
Dublin – city of living culture A city that truly captures the imagination THE CAPITAL OF IRELAND is a maze of cobbled alleys, Viking remains and Georgian squares. Steeped in history and youthful energy Dublin boasts f ine museums and art galleries which chronicle Dublin’s long and colourful past, while the pubs and cafés buzz with traditional and contemporary entertainment.
Away from the city lights, the charming coastal towns and villages of County Dublin which dot the coastline and provide opportunities for craft shopping, water sports, seafood dining and picturesque walks against the spectacular backdrop of Dublin Bay. For more information on Dublin, log on to www.visitdublin.com
Whether your interest is sport, history, art or literature, whether you want to follow a heritage trail, visit a zoo, eat in a castle or follow in the footsteps of Dublin’s many musical greats, you will find an abundance of visitor attractions to discover and explore. The city is home to some of the friendliest people in the world. Add to this live music, packed pubs, hip clubs and plenty of culture plus a real passion for sport and you have everything you need for a madly memorable time. Dublin’s unique spirit of fun and entertainment is evident in the many festivals and events organised throughout the year. Get spooked at Hallowfest. Feast your senses on sights, smells, sounds and tastes from around the world at the Festival of World Cultures. See the stars at the Jameson International Film Festival. From the Mardi Gras atmosphere of the St. Patrick’s Festival, to the weird and wonderful acts at the Street Performance World Championships, there are over 100 festivals and events organised throughout Dublin every year.
19
Golf around the clock in Ireland Enjoy top championship courses and stunning scenery www.gui.ie which will give you all the information you need on every golf course in the country. During the long summer months in Ireland (it’s still bright until well after 10pm in the evening) visitors can play a round at a links course in the morning, have lunch, drive for an hour and play another round at a parkland course before retiring to the 19th for a few well-deserved pints. Beyond the confines of the course, you’ll find Ireland to be a wonderful destination with warm, friendly locals with a real sense of fun, a fascinating history and heritage, wonderful sightseeing and shopping and top-notch food and drink. Following the hugely successful staging of the 2006 Ryder Cup at The K Club in Ireland, more golfers than ever are set to descend on The Emerald Isle to experience the delights of Ballybunion, Portmarnock and Royal Portrush to name but a few.
No other country in the world boasts such a wealth of choice for golf enthusiasts – whether you want to tee off in isolation on a remote, sea-lashed links course, or revel in the luxurious surroundings of one of the many world class golf resorts. There are over 300 golf courses in Ireland and if you are planning a golfing holiday in Ireland visit the Golfing Union of Ireland website,
PHOne 04 384 9090 Fax 04 382 9093 119-121 cuba street, wellington
Live Music & Entertainment All Day St. Patrick’s DAy
GET
20% OFF 20
a PINT off MURPHY’S RED or STOUT with this voucher on or before 17 March '08
Ireland’s compact size makes it an ideal choice for a golf tour and many of the country’s most revered courses are just a short distance away from each other. Fly into Belfast and in no time you can be teeing it up at Royal County Down, Portstewart, Castlerock or Ballyliffin – the latter Nick Faldo once tried to purchase after falling in love with the course after only nine holes! Discover the west with Sligo as your tour base, taking in Rosses Point and Enniscrone. Many visitors to Irish shores will arrive into Shannon
Airport in the south-west, where Old Tom Morris’ Lahinch and Greg Norman’s Doonbeg are both less than an hour away.
the resting site of the Lusitania shipwreck – the course is quite simply a ‘must play’.
Continue your journey south to Killarney where a tour on the famed Ring of Kerry will take you to wonderful Waterville – home of the original Father & Son World Invitational.
Take in luxurious Mount Juliet on the final leg of your journey towards Ireland’s capital city where links-weary golfers can recharge their batteries in the 5-Star spa.
Located just outside the fishing port of Kinsale near Cork city, many golfers have rightly raved about The Old Head Golf Links – perched on a spectacular site 300 feet above crashing waves only miles from
Dublin city is rich in history and has top class accommodation to boast about as well as golfing gems such as The Island, The European Club and Royal Dublin.
21
Big boost for irish sailing The Volvo Ocean Race promises to raise the prof ile of sailing in Ireland THE WEST COAST CITY OF GALWAY has been conf irmed as one of the stopovers for the Volvo Ocean Race (formerly known as the Whitbread Round the World Race).
premier yacht race for professional racing crews and the 2008-09 event starts in Alicante in Spain on October 11 later this year and finishes in St Petersburg in Russia.
This will be the 10th running of the ocean marathon which spans over 39,000 nautical miles, stopping at ports around the world and taking up to nine months to complete. The Volvo Ocean Race is the world’s
“The event appeals to me, the boat appeals to me,” Walker said. “If you talk to anyone who’s done the Volvo, win, lose or draw, they all enthuse about it.”
British sailing legend and Olympic silver medallist Ian Walker will skipper the Irish boat ‘Green Team’ in the race.
Jamie Boag, CEO of Team Green says the Volvo Ocean Race is the ultimate sailing test. “This is no pleasure cruise. What the brochures don’t tell you is that this journey involves sleep deprivation, debilitating cold and gasping heat and where freeze-dried food is the set menu. You have to contend with mountainous seas, 70 knot winds, the constant pounding of the waves causes your stomach to be set on spin cycle, and every ounce of emotional energy is stretched to breaking point,” he said. The traditional route around the Southern Ocean past the great capes has been changed this year in favour of stopovers in India, China and Singapore. The boats are set to arrive in Galway from Boston in May 2009 with huge benefits to the local economy and for sailing in Ireland. The stopover is expected to be the biggest sporting event in Ireland since golf’s Ryder Cup. Estimates suggest that up to 200,000 people will visit Galway for the stopover and Robert Dix, the President of the
Don’t miss St. Patricks Day at Finnegans Mon March 17th Featuring Irish Dancing at 2pm, 4pm & 6.45pm and Irish Music all day until 10pm, then DJ Garth until 3am. Band is “Maskara” – Classic 80’s Rock Tribute Night 6pm-10pm in back carpark with marquee. Food available all day. Bouncy Castle for the kids.
715 Mt Albert Road, Royal Oak 09 625 7550 22
Irish Sailing Association says it is a hugely significant event for the sport.
sport in Ireland but those numbers are expected to sky rocket thanks to the profile and coverage of the Volvo Ocean Race.
“This is the highest profile event to come to Ireland and the biggest in terms of global exposure and revenue. Not only does it promote Ireland on an international stage but it has the potential to maximise the profile of sailing in Ireland,” said Dix. And what about the benefits for the sport in Ireland? “We hope that it will encourage sailing as a ‘sport for all’ and raise the profile of the sport. It is also expected to be a major boost in promoting the maritime industry in Ireland.” Ireland has one of the most variable coastlines in the world which is capable of accommodating all the different sailing disciplines. With over 3,000 miles of coastline and countless bays and inlets to explore sailors are spoilt for choice. But what makes sailing in Ireland special? “Clean water, sheltered harbours and a dramatic coastline make Ireland one of the best places for sailing anywhere in Europe,” said Dix. “Not only is Ireland steeped in history but it has an unspoilt landscape with many ancient monuments that can be seen from the sea.” Sailing takes place around the coast of Ireland as well as on some of the larger inland lakes but the majority of sailors are based around the large population centres of Galway, Dublin, Cork and Belfast. In Ireland there is a strong racing ethos in the clubs with regular weekend regattas during the summer months. Over 150,000 people participate in the
101-103 CUSTOMS STREET WEST VIADUCT HARBOUR | AUCKLAND CITY
St. Patrick’s Day Celebrations OPEN FOR BREAKFAST FROM 7:00AM Marquees outside on Market Square with LIVE MUSIC and IRISH DANCING by the CONNOLLY IRISH DANCERS ALL DAY.
GUINNESS and KILKENNY served all day along with FULL IRISH BREAKFAST, GALWAY-STYLE MUSSELS and our famous BEEF AND GUINNESS PIES.
PROMOTIONS RUNNING ALL DAY
Great Craic to be had by all!
204 Quay St, Viaduct Basin, Auckland Ph 0-9-358 2554
Open 11.00am till late, meals noon to 10.00pm LIVE MUSIC EVERY NIGHT Danny-Doolans is the quintessential Irish bar, friendly staff with a pint at the ready, an ambience second to none, toe tapping music to get you in the mood, live music every night and hearty pub food that’s difficult to match on quality and quantity.
Danny-Doolans is, “the warmest little bar in the world… to be sure”.
23
Irishman recovers from farm accident Kevin McGarry tells Robert Tighe about coping with adversity A YOUNG IRISH MAN who lost both his legs while on a working holiday in New Zealand is determined to walk again. Kevin McGarry came to New Zealand in November 2006 on a six month contract to work on a farm in Timaru in the South Island. “When I got here I loved it and I didn’t want to go home,” says Kevin. “I did a bit of travelling around the country and then got a job on a Waikato dairy farm.” He had been working on the farm for just over two months when he left the house one morning on a motorbike at 4.30am to bring in the cows. He had made the same trip countless times before; this time it went horribly wrong. “I was going around a corner and went up on the ditch, the front wheel got caught in the fence and I slid down the ditch and took the fence with me,” explains McGarry. “I didn’t panic too much because you fall off motorbikes regular enough and it is usually no big deal. I was getting shocks in my legs from the fence but I just put up with it. I had no choice. I was flat on my back and the bike was cutting across my waist and I couldn’t lift the fence or the bike off me. Next thing some petrol spilled and it sparked and there was a huge fireball. There wasn’t a lot I could do after that.”
Trafalgar’s
IRELAND I
T IS said that in Ireland the grass is greener and the people twice as friendly as anywhere on earth. You can experience the magic of Ireland with one of Trafalgar’s fully escorted tours. With 15 magnificent tours to choose from, you’ll be captivated by Ireland’s beauty, and your heart warmed by its people. 2008 will be a great year to visit Ireland, so book early to secure the departure of your choice. For more details visit:
www.trafalgar.com
24
McGarry drifted in and out of consciousness for what he thinks was up to half an hour until another farm worker found him. By that stage he had burns to almost half his body and as he was being carried out of the field he remembers looking down at his legs and “seeing nothing but black.” His eldest brother Keith was at the family home in Kilnamanagh just outside Frenchpark in Co Roscommon when he got a phone call at 2am from the hospital in New Zealand. Keith had to ring his parents who were on holiday in Co Kerry to tell them the terrible news. Next morning Keith and his brother Enda were on the plane to New Zealand. “We came straight to the hospital. I was standing in the corridor and there was this bed coming towards me with somebody in it with a swollen face. It was Kevin going to get his first leg removed,” remembers Keith. Kevin woke up in Middlemore Hospital four weeks later. The 21-year-old is lucky to be alive. He had both his legs amputated above the knee and had burns to over 45 per cent of his body and since losing his legs he has had countless skin grafts from his back and his head to replace the burned skin from the waist down. Six months after the accident McGarry still seems to be coping remarkably well.
“Pretty much from the start it didn’t bother me that much. You often say ‘wouldn’t that be awful’ but you don’t really look at it that way when you are in the situation. You just have to deal with it.” But despite all he has been through Kevin has nothing but good things to say about New Zealand and in particular the staff at the National Burns Unit in Middlemore Hospital. “We don’t have words to describe how good they’ve been to us over here – the nurses, the physios, the doctors and the local Irish community,” said his brother Keith. “Everyone has been great and the support we have received from people at home has been just incredible.” Now all Kevin wants to do is get back home to Ireland but he is determined to walk off the plane. n Kevin’s story will be featured on TV3’s 60 Minutes at 7.30pm on Monday, March 17.
A trust fund has been set up to help the McGarry family pay for the ongoing medical care and attention Kevin will require when he returns to Ireland. Cheques can be posted to the Kevin McGarry Trust Fund, c/o PO Box 12 443, Penrose, Auckland or lodged to the Kevin McGarry Trust Fund, Westpac Penrose, account number 03-0243-0239745-00.
Kevin McGarry with his brother Keith who travelled to New Zealand to be with his brother within hours of the accident. Photo credit: Renée McKay – Photosport.
25
musical variety the spice of Irish life There is something to suit all musical tastes in Ireland MUSIC IS A RICH PART OF IRISH LIFE and the country has produced more than its fair share of world famous musicians over the last few years. From the world’s biggest stadium rock band, U2 to a musical legend like Van Morrison; from the Celtic mysticism of Enya and Clannad to the boy band pop of Westlife and from singer-songwriters like Damien Rice and Glen Hansard of the Frames to traditional music giants like The Chieftains and The Dubliners, Ireland punches above its weight in musical terms.
If you want a to get a taste of contemporary Irish music you should make it your business to see the movie “Once”, which is one of the most heart warming movies of recent years. It tells the story of an Irish busker played by Hansard, who falls in love with a Czech immigrant he meets while he is playing guitar on the streets of Dublin. Hansard and his co-star Markata Irglova wrote and performed the standout song from the movie, Falling Slowly which won an Oscar recently for Best Original Song. Hansard has been one of the hardest working musicians in the country over the last 20 years and ironically started his career busking on the streets at the age of 14 so there is a certain irony about him making an international breakthrough on the back of a movie which could be the story of his life. Hansard and his band The Frames supported Bob Dylan when he played in Auckland last year and it was a memorable concert for Hansard who counts Dylan and Van Morrison as his musical heroes. Morrison’s latest album “Keep it Simple” continues the high standards the Belfast legend has set for himself over a critically acclaimed career which has spanned five decades. “Keep It Simple” is a record rife with eureka moments and instantly relatable emotion. Of the title track Morrison says, “It’s just a song about how everything’s gotten now so complex and how things have become so complicated and nothing’s easy to do anymore. So the song’s a kind of prayer – or what
26
have you – let’s hope we can get back to something simple, otherwise, we’re screwed.” Westlife may not receive as much critical acclaim as Van Morrison but they are one of the biggest selling pop bands in the world with 14 UK number one singles to their credit and over 36 million albums sold worldwide. The boy band visit New Zealand for four concerts in May and while they have been dominating the charts since 1999 when they released their first single, this will be their first visit to New Zealand. The Chieftains and The Dubliners have both been regular visitors to these shores. Both bands originated from the traditional Irish pub session. It is hard to describe a traditional Irish music session in an Irish pub. Like the best nights out, the best ‘trad sessions’ often happen spontaneously. With the development of the super-pub in Ireland, traditional Irish music pubs are fewer and farther between. An even rarer breed is the full time traditional musician who spends days and nights playing music and drinking pints. But they do still exist, you just have to look a bit harder to find them. Some of the more famous pub sessions can be found in O’Donoghues in Dublin, The Crane in Galway, O’Connor’s in Doolin, County Clare, Matt Molloy’s in Westport in County Mayo and O’Flaherty’s in Dingle, County Kerry.
27
The vibrant area of Northern Ireland A region rich in myths, legends, beautiful scenery and cultural attractions THE CAUSEWAY COAST & GLENS, with landscape that inspires visitors and ARMAGH & DOWN where you can enjoy f ishing villages, gardens and historic houses are part of mosaic that makes up Northern Ireland.
ARMAGH & DOWN Come and visit the beautiful Armagh & Down region, where you can trace the birthplace of famous Irish myths to dizzyingly beautiful mountain ranges, sail over great inland seas and discover a bewitching natural world of unique loughs and islands.
The Causeway Coast and Glens is a unique region where nature has perfected a landscape of unsurpassed beauty and man has woven a rich tapestry of history, heritage and myth.
Discover your Christian heritage in St. Patrick’s Country and the ancient city of Armagh with the two cathedrals he founded and get back to nature in the famous Mountains of Mourne, recognised worldwide as an area of outstanding natural beauty. Journey back to the dawn of Irish history, enjoy the finest food and welcoming accommodation and the infectious rhythm of Irish music in the friendliest pubs in Ireland.
This is a place where rugged coastline merges into still, silent glens and unfolds into lush forest parks. Where beautiful beaches beckon. Where rivers wander through rolling lowlands. Where sleepy villages nestle next to busy shopping towns and all who visit are inspired by the beauty of the landscape and the legacy of the past.
Take car ferries across Strangford Lough to idyllic Georgian villages and visit elegant stately homes with world famous gardens. Explore Norman towers and mediaeval abbeys, whitewashed cottages and Victorian lighthouses and indulge a passion for arts and crafts at countless charming shops.
An ideal way to experience the region is to take the Causeway Coastal Route, which is seen as The Essential Irish journey.
Tour the Counties of Armagh & Down and you will soon discover why the food of the region is as celebrated as its breathtaking scenery and range of activities. Relax in historic inns and welcoming, atmospheric pubs and enjoy Michelin-starred food or the unbeatable taste of freshly caught fish in a waterside restaurant.
CAUSEWAY COAST AND GLENS
The Causeway Coastal Route takes you from the outskirts of Belfast on one of Europe’s most scenic journeys taking in picturesque fishing villages, rugged cliffs, three designated areas of outstanding natural beauty and the UNESCO world heritage site at the Giants Causeway. There are also a number of small circular tours which take in places including Slemish Mountain, the Lower Bann Valley, Islandmagee and the magnificent Glens of Antrim.
28
In Armagh & Down, the craic is everywhere. In all kinds of festivals, at pulsating evenings of drama or music, whether it’s enjoying opera in the beautiful gardens of a stately home or kicking up your heels at a Celtic music festival, there really is something for everyone in Armagh & Down.
irish whiskey in the jar There is a reason Jameson whiskey is the best selling Irish Whiskey in the world ST. PATRICK’S DAY is upon us, and during this year’s celebrations Jameson Irish Whiskey will be in more kiwi hands than ever before. Whiskey, in general, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. It may be 228 years old, but Jameson Irish Whiskey is one of the fastest growing whiskeys the world over and has successfully made the leap out of granddad’s cabinet into the hands of a new, taste-savvy generation. Back in the early days of whiskey, when it was known by the Gaelic phrase uisce beatha, meaning “water of life”, Irish whiskey was one of the most consumed alcoholic products in the world. It began with John Jameson, a Scot, who travelled to Ireland to learn the art of distillation. He established his distillery in Dublin in 1780. By the turn of the 19th century, there were over 2000 stills in operation in Ireland. Unfortunately, prohibition and Ireland’s independence from Britain led to dwindling overseas demand, and by the 1930s only four Irish distilling companies were left. Jameson has stood the test of time, remaining true to the pot still whiskey tradition laid down by John Jameson in the 18th century. It is far and away the best-selling Irish whiskey here in New Zealand, and throughout the world.
Having travelled the world as a whiskey ambassador, Nation knows why his whiskey has such an appeal to the contemporary drinker. ”Jameson is all about expecting the unexpected. It often surprises first-time tasters because it’s just so smooth and easy to drink.’ A lot of time and care goes into creating a smooth, delicious whiskey from the simplest of ingredients – barley, water and yeast – and not all whiskeys are created equal. When it comes to the difference between Irish whiskey and Scotch whisky, for example, it goes beyond the spelling of the word itself to a question of smoke and distillation. Twice-distilled Scotch whisky is made from barley dried over peat fires, resulting in a smoky flavour. Irish whiskey uses barley dried in closed ovens and is distilled three times so the true malted barley flavour shines through. This, arguably, makes Irish whiskey more versatile when it comes to both food pairing and mixing cocktails.
Once the exclusive domain of darkened, wood-panelled gentleman’s clubs, whiskey is now popular with a younger, contemporary generation. My how things have changed. The modern, 20- or 30-something whiskey drinker may be found at the hippest of concerts, taking in a film festival and at the chicest of clubs. Jameson Distiller, Brian Nation is a young distiller who is both part of the new whiskey generation, and hard at work creating the much loved spirit. “This generation knows a thing or two about a good drop,” he says, “and their expectations are high.”
And when it comes to the difference between Jameson and other Irish whiskeys… well, it comes down to John Jameson and his attention to detail. For 228 years Jameson has been every Irishman’s favourite Irish whiskey. While it is the perfect ingredient in many a creative cocktail, the bar order of the moment is a Jameson and Dry: a crisp drink of Jameson Irish Whiskey with a splash of ginger ale over ice, topped with a wedge of lime. So get your hands upon a Jameson and Dry this St. Patrick’s Day – the ideal way to celebrate all things Irish! Jameson – turning the whole world Irish this St. Patrick’s Day: www.jamesonwhiskey.com 29
“Ireland Calling” If you want to keep up to date with the news from Ireland, hear the best of Irish Music and find out what’s happening in the Irish community in New Zealand tune into…
“Ireland Calling” with Oliver Lee on...
Planet FM 104.6 Auckland and Access Radio Wellington 783AM EVERY WEDNESDAY 10PM and on Plains FM 96.9 in Christchurch EVERY SATURDAY 10PM
30
Trinity College Accommodation
■
Dublin City Centre
■ Beside
■ Affordable
College Green & Grafton Street ■ Surrounded
by Theatres,
■ Bed
& Breakfast
■ 1,000
Shops & Restaurants
Rooms – Single – Double
Dublin’s unique atmosphere & stroll back to your accommodation
– Apartments
■ Sample
■ See
the priceless Treasures in Trinity College
Accommodation Office Trinity College West Chapel Dublin 2
accommodation
June - September inclusive
Temple Bar,
■ Standard ■ Bar,
and en suite Facilities
Restaurant, Shops
■ Sports
Facilities
Tel +353 1 896 1177 Fax +353 1 671 1267 Email Reservations@tcd.ie Web http://www.tcd.ie/accommodation/Visitors/
Online Reservations: http://reservations.tcd.ie
Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with
O'MARA'S IRISH CREAM imported from Ireland … where else?
O’Mara’s Irish Cream is unique among Irish cream liqueurs. Real dairy cream and a special blending process give O’Mara’s a rich, smooth taste that makes it deliciously appealing by itself or in a variety of drinks. O’Mara’s is a multi-medal winner in the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
Available from Liquorland, Super Liquor, Liquor Centre and other selected outlets.
31