Oliver Sweeney Spring/Summer '15 Lookbook

U S M G M N MER I R P S

2015 PRESS LOOK BOOK WWW.OLIVERSWEENEY.COM

S

AL INSPIRATION EASON SPRING SUMMER 2015

We know that you, like us, appreciate good design; not just in your shoes, but in every aspect of your life.

The chair as a form is often considered the ultimate expression of design; the one that endless sketches are made of; the final puzzle for accomplished designers to flex their creative muscles over.

While there is of course no definitive answer for what makes the perfect chair, it’s a challenge that designers from all fields relish, and it’s this design challenge that we took as our inspiration for our Spring/Summer ’15 collection. Not only the wide variety of materials, but the constructions, the forms, and the memories associated with different chairs.

The chair may just be something to sit on - in the same way that shoes are just something you put on your feet - but in combining style with substance, and function with form, good chairs and good shoes effortlessly integrate themselves with your daily life. Combining the simple pleasure of a well-executed task with the highest standards of finishing, chairs and shoes are perfect examples of good design at its best.

We hope we’ve lived up to the designers’ work to which we’ve paid homage.

CONTENTS Contact Information / 2 - 3 Goodyear Welted / 4 - 19 Compass Collection / 20 - 23 Italian / 24 - 33 Sweeney London / 34 - 39 Outerwear / 40 - 41 Luggage / 42 - 43 Contact Information / 44 Social Channels / 45 Cover shoe: Brantham Navy & Chestnut (page 6 - 7)

Tim Cooper, The Cobbler-in-Chief

SPRING SUMMER 2015

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CONTACT INFORMATION

CONTACT INFORMATION

Camilla Treharne Head of Brand Creative, Marketing & PR

Emma Lehane Marketing, PR & Communications Assisant

T. + 44 207 428 8612 M. + 44 779 656 0261 E. camilla@oliversweeney.com

T. + 44 207 428 8617 M. + 44 7703 777 803 E. emma@oliversweeney.com

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

CLOPTON BLACK

CLOPTON TAN

Blending indigo denim, black leather and a lightweight commando sole, Clopton exemplifies everything that Oliver Sweeney is about this season. Taking inspiration from the mix of fabrics found on designer chairs, this longwing American brogue utilises a brand new Finproject sole that does everything our commando sole does, but with a lighter, summery feel.

With luxury tan buffalo leather, map-printed panels and a pale Finproject sole, there’s a certain old-school adventurer feel to the tan Clopton. Think Indiana Jones in a Merchant Ivory film and you’re about there, though with a split seam Goodyear welted commando sole and sharp longwing brogue detailing, it’s a completely contemporary design.

£229

£229

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

HEPWORTH BLACK

HEPWORTH NAVY DENIM

A fresh take on the workwear classic five-eyelet Derby, Hepworth is a sleek and minimal design that takes our Goodyear welted range to new places. The matching black suede heel counter is shaped to reference mid-century furniture design, with the red pull tab providing a pop of contrasting colour.

As ever with Oliver Sweeney, we’ve interpreted a shoe design in a thoroughly modern way, making this Hepworth from heavy indigo denim with contrasting tobacco stitching and brass eyelets that reference your favourite pair of Selvedge jeans. Goodyear welted with a lightweight new commando sole, it’s the perfect summer shoe.

£229

£229

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

BRANTHAM NAVY

BRANTHAM CHESTNUT

As legend would have it, monkstraps originated in fifteenth century European monasteries and were popularised when the style was brought over to England by a travelling ecclesiast. Legend, however, is a frequently untrustworthy source. What we do know is that our Brantham monkstrap for this season is a delicious blend of sumptuous black leather brogue detailing with slicked-back navy suede inserts.

Intricately detailed brogueing and contrasting smooth and grained chestnut leather marks these monk straps out as a cut above. Finished with antiqued brass square buckles, and a split welt with a gimped edge, this is the kind of shoe that deserves to have outfits built around it.

ÂŁ229 8 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

CHARSFIELD BLACK

CHARSFIELD TAN

Traditionally associated with the roaring twenties, the spectator shoe (or as we call it in English, the ‘co-respondent shoe’) actually originated in the late Victorian era, but has become popular nowadays with guys looking to make a style statement. In a dark navy and black colourway that contrasts smooth and country grain leather, our Charsfield Oxford stands apart from the crowd, whatever the era.

The burnished leather finish on every one of our shoes is all done by hand. On our tan Charsfield Oxford co-respondent shoe, we’ve kept that burnishing subtle, to highlight the tan brogue detailing and contrasting leather underneath. £229

£229 10 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

WESTLETON GREY

WESTLETON SNUFF

Contrary to popular belief, minimalism is not easy; it’s only really successful when it’s done fantastically well and finished to a highly-detailed level. Westleton is a fantastic example of minimalism done well: contrasting a soft grey suede upper, this seeminglysimple five eyelet Derby is finished with a split natural leather welt and stitched heel detailing.

Constructed around the same last as our classic Aldeburgh brogue, the Westleton in snuff-coloured suede is a shoe that transitions gently between spring and summer, smart and casual. Finished with subtle contrast piping details and a natural-coloured sole, there’s a certain restrained elegance to this version of the Westleton that comes from having the minimum number of seams possible.

£229

£229

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

ASHBY TAN

ASHBY BLUE & RUSSET

Summer in the city should never be a chore. Switching our shoes around seasonally means that we get to give our winter shoes a rest and step out in a lighter pair for the summer. Which is exactly where these Ashbys come in: a classic Derby with oversized brogue detailing, they sit on a lightweight Finproject sole to put a literal spring in your step.

Thankfully, blue suede shoes have come a long way since the days of Elvis. The Ashby brogue might still reference those classic days of rock’n’roll, but is inspired by the block colours on avant-garde furniture design and Goodyear welted with a hi-tech Finproject sole. And it comes in a fresh new russet colourway too that’s got us ‘All Shook Up’. Maybe a bit of the Elvis legacy still lingers after all...

£229

£229

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

WALBERSWICK TAN

WALBERSWICK BLUE & RUSSET

In the last few seasons, we’ve seen this style of boot go from an outsider to an essential. With classic brogue boot styling and a chunky, lightweight sole, Walberswick is the perfect city version of a country boot, detailed with antique brass eyelets and contrast piping. Styled with rolled up jeans and a plain T, it’s the height of urban cool.

With suede sourced in England (from prestigious tannery Charles F. Stead in Leeds, no less), Walberswick is a true British classic. The deep, rich russet or navy colouring of these boots focuses the eye on their superlative brogue detailing and luxury fabric, while the thick white Finproject sole adds a super-comfortable summer edge.

£259

£259

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GOODYEAR WELTED

GOODYEAR WELTED

ALDEBURGH WHITE

ALDEBURGH NAVY

It may be well over 30 years old now, but the 1981 TV adaptation of ‘Brideshead Revisited’ is still a frequent sartorial reference, mostly due to costume designer Jane Robinson’s careful reinterpretation of period style cues. She went on to win a BAFTA for her work on the series, and we reckon that our all-white leather Aldeburgh brogues would look as good on Anthony Andrews’ Sebastian Flyte as they would on the street today.

Sharpening up our most popular styles is something we do every season, and our Cobbler-in-Chief is always coming up with new spins on old classics. Our Goodyear welted Aldeburgh is one of our bestsellers and for this summer season we’ve reworked it in a number of different finishes, with this rich navy suede version being a sophisticated, elegant take on the brogue.

£195 18 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

£195

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COMPASS COLLECTION

COMPASS COLLECTION

BRONDI WHITE

ROBERTO BLACK & CARAMEL

Brondi is a version of our classic Barrosa trainer, given a makeover just in time for summer. We’ve given it a slice of island-hopping cool: crafted from a pristine white leather, with a technical cup sole, Brondi has a denim tongue and contrast heel counter that evokes poolside lounging and Santorini sunsets. The only tan you’ll find here is our signature tan heel counter.

We firmly believe that sandals don’t have to be made from flimsy, cheap materials, which is why we’ve applied the same knowledge, construction and quality to ours as we do to our top-of-the-line footwear. Combining a Finproject sharktooth sole with Steads oiled leather, our sandals will age beautifully and last as long as your memories of many a summer, rather than as long as your tan.

£179

£129

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COMPASS COLLECTION

COMPASS COLLECTION

ADRIANO CARAMEL & CARAMEL/NAVY Using the finest leathers is a no-brainer for us at Oliver Sweeney, so while Adriano is definitely a summer shoe, we see no reason why that should compromise quality.

Made from high quality oiled leather from the Steads tannery, these shoes will take on a patina of age that tells the story of your summer. £149 22 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

ADRIANO WHITE STRIPE & CARAMEL STRIPE With SS15’s theme being based around iconic chair design, it was only right that we looked to the British seaside deck chair at some stage. We’ve reinvented a classic shoe construction (known as ‘Californian’), that blends the look of an espadrille with the high quality and comfort of a trainer. And in these two different striped canvases, these Adrianos are ready for all that summer can throw at them. £149 WWW.OLIVERSWEENEY.COM / 23

WHOLECUT COLLECTION

WHOLECUT COLLECTION

BUGATTI BLACK/PURPLE

BUGATTI BROWN/YELLOW

Wholecuts are the shoemaker’s version of couture: an opportunity to show off the best that they can do with their craft. These Bugattis may look simple, but it takes an incredibly skilled hand to make them, especially as the seam is a curved fold around the instep rather than at the heel. Each individual pair is also hand-burnished at the factory to achieve this particular blend of colour and shine.

A five-eyelet Oxford wholecut like our Bugatti will always cut a dash, but we’ve worked closely with our factory in Italy to come up with something extra-special. The two-tone burnished finish on these shoes is done by hand, blending between two different colours until a subtle sunset of hues is achieved for the ultimate final product, inspired by the beautiful patina of age found on antique chairs.

£349

£349

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WHOLECUT COLLECTION

WHOLECUT COLLECTION

GIO GREY, BLUE & BROWN

GIO PURPLE SUEDE

As leather furniture is used more and more, it picks up an unmistakeable patina of age that brings with it a suppleness and undulating colour that we find irresistible. It can take years for shoes to develop this, but we’ve worked closely with our Italian factory to create a beautiful hand-burnished finish on the antique leather that gives these wholecuts an undeniably tactile look.

Making a wholecut is the pinnacle of shoemaking, but we merely see that as a challenge. Creating a wholecut shoe from a more delicate material like suede was the natural progression, and just for something extra-special, we decided to punctuate it with wingtip brogue detailing. In a bright purple, our Gio is soft touch but hard on detail – in other words, classic Oliver Sweeney.

£295

£295

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BLAKE STITCHED

BLAKE STITCHED

CAPPELLINI GREY

CAPPELLINI BROWN

It might not be the obvious inspiration for a pair of shoes, but Cappellini originated from the pattern made by a set of stacking chairs. Our design team liked the beautiful concertinas of curves that resulted, and reworked the strata into layers of black leathers with brogue detailing, completing the luxury feel with a Blake stitched leather sole.

With a Blake-stitched construction, a leather sole and top-quality materials, Cappellini is a superlative formal shoe. But as usual at Oliver Sweeney, we’ve gone a step further: to highlight the beautiful contoured curves on its flanks, our Cobbler-in-Chief selected a contrasting mix of caviar-grain and antiqued leather finishes, to take this brogue to another level.

£295

£295

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BLAKE STITCHED

BLAKE STITCHED

NUXIS BROWN

NUXIS PURPLE SUEDE

Designed originally for Queen Victoria, no less, and popularised by the King’s Road set in the sixties, the Chelsea boot is a very British classic. Combining all the finest quality of our Italian manufacturing with a luxury polished leather finish, Nuxis is the epitome of subtle, refined style.

If you’re feeling more like a Chelsea dandy than Chelsea pensioner, then Nuxis in a vibrant purple suede is the boot for you. Beloved of rock stars and artists, our bold Chelsea boot is created around our chisel toe last, and the last word in statement footwear.

£329

£329

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BLAKE STITCHED

BLAKE STITCHED

SISSA BLACK, BROWN & TAN

RENZO BLACK & ANTIQUE TAN

The swooping panel on the side of our Sissa is inspired by iconic organic curves in Arne Jacobsen’s chair design. With a country grain leather side panel this fine calf, five-eyelet Oxford is an Oliver Sweeney classic. Also note the subtle ‘OS’ pattern on the punched toe detail.

Another brand new style for Spring/Summer ‘15, the Renzo is a smart Derby boot, based on the same last as Sissa, and with swept-back facings that continues the season’s theme of mixing leather finishes. This time, the mix is sumptuous handburnished calf with a contrasting caviar-grain quarter panel.

£295

£329

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SWEENEY LONDON

SWEENEY LONDON

GARIBALDI BLACK SUEDE

ARDARA BLACK SUEDE

A mid-top elasticated chukka boot, Garibaldi takes inspiration from skate shoes.

But forget the ripped and ruined California grunge look, this is an altogether more polished affair. Crafted from snakeskin-patterned embossed suede, with a contrasting navy suede detail on the gusset, this vulcanised shoe is skating with style.

Using the same snakeskin-embossed material, but in a compact two-eyelet lace-up chukka boot, Ardara is the grown-up cousin of Garibaldi. Sitting on our vulcanised sole unit each shoe is built around a metal last and then cured in an oven, giving the rubber a long-lasting, durable finish.

ÂŁ95

ÂŁ95

34 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

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SWEENEY LONDON

SWEENEY LONDON

MABILLION AQUA & LIGHT BLUE

MABILLION BLACK

Our Cobbler-in-Chief has come up with two bold colourways for our lightweight summer shoe, the Mabillion. A soft washed chambray upper is contrasted with a pure white sole for a staple summer combination. The bright blue canvas is perfect for adding a spot of colour to your weekend look, or even your beachwear.

Our vulcanised Mabillion canvas slip-on is filled with details that mark it out as an Oliver Sweeney: triple cross-stitching on the side and cobalt blue soles. We decided we could have a bit of extra fun with it this season, and we’ve come up with this Japanese flower-garden inspired patterned version.

£69

£69

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SWEENEY LONDON

SWEENEY LONDON

GLENTIES RED

GLENTIES NAVY DENIM & MAP

Using the bold colours of mid-century dining chairs as their starting point, our design team looked to recreate the bestselling Glenties vulcanised sneaker in a really bold colourway. This bright red canvas version (with an equally-bright white rubber sole) evokes the spirit of pioneering industrial designers, and is finished with a subtle Sweeney London logo on the heel.

Strong colour and fabric choices are a hallmark of the Sweeney London collection this season. Make a bold statement with the Glenties in a dark navy denim with a natural rubber sole. The map-printed version references our love of exploring and is the perfect sneaker for a weekend of wandering.

ÂŁ69 38 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

ÂŁ79

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OUTERWEAR

OUTERWEAR

NAYLAND

BEAUMONT

- Suede bomber jacket

- Two button notched label blazer

- RiRi anique brass zip

- Buggy lined casual summer blazer

- Knit rib baseball collar and waist band

- Ecru herrigbone buggy lining

- Action back shoulders

- Burnt wood buttons

£395

40 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

LAUNGTON

BOXSTED

- Technical water resistant coated cotton

- Italian coated cotton outer

- Action backs for easy movement when cycling

- Buggy lined with contrast binding trims

- action fit arms for dynamic fit - 3M trims throughout

- Italian cotton body fabric

- Leather patch on back to allow light to be fastened

£295

£349

- Engraved horn buttons - Leather trim on collar stand £295

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LUGGAGE

LUGGAGE Crafted from a military-inspired mix of ballistic nylon and textured buffalo leather, our all-black travel accessories are as practical as they are minimal. Designed to maximise the versatility of your everyday luggage, they feature slick detailing like Japanese nickel zips, padded laptop sleeves and clever built-in extendable shoe pockets for a thoughtful take on discreet urban luxury.

42 / SPRING SUMMER 2015

LUGGAGE

WALLSEND RUCKSACK (top left) £249 HEBBURN WEEKENDER (bottom left) £295 WHITLEY TOTE (above top) £249 STANLEY MESSENGER (above bottom) £195 WWW.OLIVERSWEENEY.COM / 43

CONTACT INFORMATION

SOCIAL CHANNELS

CONTACT INFORMATION

SOCIAL CHANNELS

Camilla Treharne Head of Brand Creative, Marketing & PR T. + 44 207 428 8612 M. + 44 779 656 0261 E. camilla@oliversweeney.com Emma Lehane Marketing, PR & Communications Assisant T. + 44 207 428 8617 M. + 44 7703 777 803 E. emma@oliversweeney.com

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