research journal - olivia clifton 201024838
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Contents
2
Introduction
5
Phase 1
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The Autonomous Woman Lifestyle Trend
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Customer Research
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Brand Research
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Phase 2
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Colour and Mood Research
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Yarns & Fabrics
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Key Silhouettes
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Range Plan
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Marketing Suggestions
108
Final Reflection
115
Reference List
116
Figures List
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introduction Trend packages are professional, creative documents, produced by trend companies to sell to fashion brands (Udale, 2008). These documents are created up to 2 years before a collection is launched, therefore it takes skilled awareness of trend drivers in order to produce an accurate forecast. As well as containing colour palettes and mood boards, trend packages often include: fabric and yarn predictions, silhouette forecasts and range plans. This reflective journal displays the development of a trend package for the fashion retailer Whistles, inspired by the “autonomous woman� trend previously determined in Semester 1. The colours and designs will be aimed at the Spring/Summer 2019 season, in keeping with the Whistles ethos and with a target consumer in mind. By showing the evolution of research and ideas, this journal illustrates the context behind the final, professional trend package.
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phase 1
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the autonomous
The autonomous woman tre independent, professional wome confidence. The autonomous w supports the 21st century fem and female empowerment is im and the people she surrounds h is important to revisit the d trend, to include any recent e have an effect on the direction A PESTLE analysis is the b explore drivers, as it helps t competitive, fluctuating commer environment (Perera,
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woman
end celebrates en with endless woman actively minist movement mportant to her herself with. It drivers of this events that may n and longevity. best method to to evaluate the rcial and social 2017).
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Political
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Economical
Theresa May is the 2nd female Prime Minister of England. “44% of women in politics have faced abuse or violence” (The Guardian, 2018). Donald Trump’s destructive views towards women. 100 years since women gained the right to vote.
“78% of companies pay men more” (BBC, 2018). Customers gaining confidence after inflation decrease.
Social
Technological
Saudi Arabia hosts its first women’s cycle race. Young women in London joining Women’s Institutes. The general public are more accepting of feminism and damaging stereotypes are beginning to decline.
Social media spreading feminist awareness and a platform to express views. Mobile applications tackling sexual violence. Inspiring a new generation of women to follow a career in technology.
Legal
Environmental
Anti-abortion laws in Ireland are a continuous problem for women of all ages. Gender pay gap must be published by companies. Trump to ban transgender people from the military.
Exploitation of women in third world countries. Increased commitment to recycling and banning one-use plastics.
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customer profiles
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To create a customer profile in response to the ‘autonomous woman’ trend from semester 1, it was vital to look at the innovators from the trend cartogram. The innovators (shown in Figures 14-17) incorporated a variety of ages, occupations and cultural backgrounds; therefore, it is essential to embrace diversity in the final fashion trend. By producing 2 different profiles for potential consumers, the extensive scope of the trend is visibly exhibited.
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52 YEARS OLD ART TEACHER £40,000 SALARY MARRIED WITH CHILDREN
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27 YEARS OLD MARKETING MANAGER £35,000 SALARY SINGLE, NO CHILDREN
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customer 1 Gender: Female Age: 32 Occupation: English Secondary School Teacher Hobbies/Interests: Reading, Arts & Crafts Online/In-store Shopper: In-store Would you class yourself as a feminist? Yes Why do you shop at Whistles? Quality of clothes, trend-led and wide range of clothing
customer 2 Gender: Female Age: 48 Occupation: Hairdresser Hobbies/Interests: Spending time with family, going shopping and browsing online Online/In-store Shopper: In-store Would you class yourself as a feminist? No Why do you shop at Whistles? Products last long and “I love the designs�
customer 3 Gender: Female Age: 52 Occupation: Self-employed Interior Designer Hobbies/Interests: Going to the gym and going out with family and friends Online/In-store Shopper: In-store Would you class yourself as a feminist? Yes Why do you shop at Whistles? The fit of the clothes and quality
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customer interviews To support my customer profiles, I conducted 3 interviews with Whistles customers in the Leeds Victoria Store. The interviews were completed with customers leaving the store with a purchase between 13:00 and 13:45. This helped create a specific persona for the Whistles target consumer and helped with the decision between which demographic to pursue.
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After reviewing possible outcomes for each customer profile and taking into account the responses from the customer interviews, I chose to pursue the 45-50-year-old woman as my target consumer and name her ‘Artistic Alison’. To establish her opinions and interests, it was useful to create a customer profile grid and a ‘day in the life’ breakdown. These tools assist to understand the customers’ priorities and needs in life, including fashion.
customer profile grid 22
Demographic • 52 years old • Female • Married with children, no longer live with her • Graduated from university • Art teacher • Income of £40,000
Interests and Opinions • Conservative political view • Concerned with women’s rights and gender equality • Enjoys art, reading and cooking
Social Media • Regularly checks Facebook and updates her profile with interesting news articles and family photos • Likes to create boards on Pinterest for artistic inspiration and other hobbies, such as recipes • Uses Instagram to upload pictures of her artwork and activities from her weekend
Fashion Needs • Middle-high market fashion • good quality, ethical garments • Her wardrobe is full of colours and patterns
Brands They Wear • Whistles • Jigsaw • Marks and Spencers • Warehouse
Where and How Do They Shop • Once a month she will go shopping on a weekend; however, mostly does her shopping online due to convienience and busy schedule
Emotional Motivations • To enjoy a sense of well-being • Express art through fashion
Brands They Aspire To Wear • Vivienne Westwood • Diane Von Furtsenberg • Ulla Johnson
Fashion Trends They Follow • Statement jewlerry • Traditional silhouettes • 70’s patterns • Florals
Magazines and Blogs • The Artist (Magazine) • Women’s Weekly (Magazine) • Not Dead Yet Style (Blog) • Fit Foodie Finds (Blog)
day in the life 24
7AM Wakes up and gets ready for a day at work. She makes sure to have a healthy breakfast and watches the news.
9AM - 3PM She has a busy day at work. Having a short lunch break, she ensures she has time to check her phone and social media accounts.
4PM
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She gets home from work and changes into more comfortable clothes, such as loungewear. Usually makes a cup of tea and gets work ready for the next day.
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6PM She prepares dinner for herself and her husband, usually a traditional hearty meal. As well as this, she enjoys a glass of wine with her food.
figure 46 7PM - 11PM She relaxes on the her husband. Often a book or browsing before she goes to
sofa with reading online, bed. figure 47
choosing a brand Following the finalisation of a customer profile, the next task is to choose a brand to suit the autonomous woman trend. Artistic Alison’s favourite brands include Whistles, Jigsaw, Marks & Spencer and Warehouse. These brands have similar target audiences; however, vary in terms of price range. To help decide on a brand to pursue, I created a perceptual map of these brands to determine which is most suitable for the target consumer.
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timeless
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low price
high price figure 50
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fast-fashion
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Whistles is the most expensive brand on the perceptual map and is the least fast-fashion oriented. This is the brand that I am going to develop a Spring Summer 2019 range for because it suits the values and style of Artistic Alison. She is not interested in consistently changing fast fashion, therefore the longevity of products is an important value that Whistles can provide.
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brand
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profile
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about Whistles Whistles is a London based, middle market fashion brand who labels itself as “a shopping destination for the busy, dynamic woman” (Whistles, 2018). With increasing global presence, Whistles creates ageless garments for both women and men, designed to be worn any day of the week. Whistles CEO Jane Shepherdson, describes the typical customer to be “independent and confident about fashion” (Indvik, 2014), directly reflecting the customer profile I have formed. Whistles provides its customers with current trends; however, the brand rejects fast fashion and provides quality, exclusive, long-lasting pieces.
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“fairness, integrity and transparency� Whistles (2018)
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brand ethos Whistles’ ethos focuses on transparency throughout both production and distribution of products, along with reducing environmental impact (Whistles, 2018). According to a Unilever (2017) survey, “a third of consumers buy from brands based on their social and environmental impacts”. Therefore, it is important that Whistles communicates their values powerfully. It is notable that Whistles have formerly created a feminist inspired collection in collaboration with ELLE UK and leading feminist charity, The Fawcett Society (Shopping Spy, 2014). The slogan “this is what a feminist looks like” was printed onto t-shirts, accessories and also menswear garments. Therefore, exhibiting Whistles inclusive equal rights ethos, directly connecting this trend packages target consumer.
brand personality
professional
trend-led
brand values
transparency
distinct designs
essence chic
7 days a week apparel
fashion hub intelligent for the design professional woman
longevity contemporary
quality
make a positive difference
sophisticated
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effor
ethical
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rtless
Whistles brand onion By creating a brand onion, it helps to visualise the brand identity of Whistles. As Posner (2015) explains, a brand onion is a helpful guide that is used to ensure all aspects of the business’ values can be accurately reflected through communications. The brand onion I have produced emphasises Whistles’ ethical values and product quality.
evidence for the need To begin creating a suitable SS19 range plan for the target consumer, it is essential to clarify the consumer needs and establish why Whistles is a suitable brand for the trend concept. The trend concept, Aspire, is motivated by the recent liberation of women in Middle-Eastern countries, such as Saudi Arabia. The male guardianship system and lack of independence (Oliphant, 2017) is particularly old-fashioned compared to Western societies and the recent revolution allowing women to drive, has aired these problems on a global scale. Although the recent changes are radical to Middle-Eastern women, there is still a long way to go for complete equality (Momtaz, 2018). The target consumer appreciates the global struggles for women, as well as local issues; therefore, the trend concept addresses the worldwide zeitgeist of female liberation. Whistles is a brand that has previously acknowledged feminism with a catchphrase adorned fashion collection; however, Aspire aims to celebrate women in a discreet way, without obvious slogans. The collection will provide an essence of freedom, inspired by Middle-Eastern colours.
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phase 2
reflection After completing research for Phase 1 of the trend forecasting project, it is advantageous to reflect on the work I have produced in order to create an accurate final collection. The lectures and seminars have provided an opportunity to share my work with my peers and gain critical feedback. It was important to keep in mind that the collection needs to meet the needs of my target consumer and not my personal preference, due to the chosen demographic and brand. It was also interesting to learn which brands my colleagues are exploring, as there is a wide variety throughout the group. The content of lectures also aided the research journey throughout Phase 1, providing background information into how a trend package is established. Week 4 was particularly noteworthy as the lecture explained long-term and short-term forecasting and the fashion calendar, an essential tool when launching a seasonal range.
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wgsn ss19 colour palette research Trend companies WGSN and LSN Global are beneficial to the research process as they suggest upcoming colour palettes and moods. The professional websites elevated my understanding of how trend forecasters lay out colour palettes and where inspiration is established, giving an insight into how to correctly create a professional standard trend package. The following pages display the forecasted colour palettes from WGSN for SS19. figure 69
key colours ss19
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common ground colour palette ss19
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première vision reflection During week 4, I went on the School of Design trip to Paris. As part of this trip, I had the great opportunity to visit Première Vision, the renowned trade show, exhibiting materials and designs from all aspects of the fashion industry. It was interesting to view colour palettes and fabric predictions for Spring/Summer 2019 on such a large scale. The images below are scanned from the Première Vision brochure, detailing patterns and colours that I believe connect with my trend concept.
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colour and mood research In week 5’s lecture, we explored colour palettes and their importance to the development of a trend. As Hopkins (2012, p.84) explains, “colour can set the mood or tone for a collection, with colour inspiration coming from a number of (…) sources”. Colour palettes come in partnership with mood boards, capturing the nature of an upcoming trend. In my mood board, I have included inspiration from fashion, interior design and nature, as trends are created from all aspects of life. The mood board embraces the trend concept, Aspire, and displays the intense colours of the Middle East.
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core colours The colour palette is inspired by the Middle Eastern routes of the trend concept, Aspire. The core colours comprise of an off-white, light grey, charcoal and deep navy blue. It is essential to have a variety of core colours, as these are the colours that customers unremittingly buy and garments are guaranteed to sell (King, 2011).
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accent colours The accent colours represent the lively aesthetic of Middle Eastern culture. With inspiration from architecture, spices and clothing, this colour palette resembles the stress-free perception of summer. By choosing bright colours, it reflects Whistles’ current colour selections for SS18; therefore, I am confident that the target consumer will welcome the SS19 colour palette.
Whistles yarns and fabrics In order to create an accurate collection in line with the quality of Whistles’ current garments, it is beneficial to research the yarns and fabrics currently used. Firstly, looking on the Whistles website at one garment of each product category helped to gain a thorough understanding of the scope of fabrics used and the quality currently provided to customers.
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100% Linen
100% Polyester
49% Polyester 45% Viscose 6% Elastane
100% Leather
100% Wool
83% Cotton 17% Elastane Figure 98
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Several basic garments, such as t-shirts, are made using 100% linen. Linen is extremely popular in summer collections, as the fibre is lightweight and strong (Makkonen, 2018). Furthermore, Mendelson (1999) explains how linen is an expensive fabric due to its difficult production process, illustrating that Whistles carefully choose high quality textiles for its most basic garments. The popular fibre Polyester, is also used in many garments such as dresses and jumpsuits. Udale (2008) describes the benefits of Polyester include reduced creasing, which adds value and practicality to Whistles more expensive garments. Whistles also uses 100% leather for premium leather jackets. All leather garments abide by the animal welfare guidelines set by the brand, stating that the fabric should be sustainably sourced (Whistles, 2018). The brand also rejects the use of real fur in any products, which is encouraging in relation to their target customer. Overall, Whistles use a range of fibres and fabrics throughout its collections; however, quality and corporate responsibility is always considered throughout the design process.
wgsn ss19 fabric research To develop a broad understanding of fabrics to use in the Whistles SS19 collection, looking at WGSN proved beneficial. The Common Ground SS19 forecast recognises the need to connect with communities and rely on traditional, sustainable fabrics (Palmer and Skliarova, 2017). This echo’s Whistles’ ethos as the brand values quality, long lasting fabrics that, through production and consumption, are not damaging to the environment (Whistles, 2018).
Figure 102: Arvind Cotton
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Figure 100: Enrico Ser
roni Linen
Figure 101: Peet Dullaert
Figure 103: Shantung Linen Silk
Figur
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textile view ss19 fabric research Textile View was also a useful resource to research SS19 fabrics. The feature ‘Handloom Stripes’ focuses on the use of linen and the natural colours that give an Arabic aesthetic to a collection (Textile View, 2018). Furthermore, ‘Aqua’ shows the forecasted use of fluid fabrics such as jersey, providing a lightweight aspect to a garment (Textile View, 2018).
Mara Casual Jumpsuit - £139 55% Cupro 42% Viscose
Double Trim T-Shirt - £35 100% Cotton 10+ Colours
Slim Jersey Jacket £85 100% Cotton Jersey 9 Colours
Anna Elasticated Waist Trouser £110 Wool blend
Lea Shirt - £89 81% Viscose 19% Nylon 4 Colours
Imie Tiered Dress £77 100% Polyester 2 Patterns Figure 105
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Whistles bestsellers By observing Whistles’ bestsellers, I have gained a more thorough understanding of the silhouettes and garment shapes that customers prefer. The 6 products above, chosen from the brands bestsellers, demonstrate a customer preference to a simple, mainstream silhouette. However, by using wide-leg tailoring on trousers and jumpsuits, Whistles also bring a sense of high fashion and a more flattering silhouette for the middle-aged woman. Although tailoring is displayed in certain garments, such as the jacket and trousers, a relaxed fit is obvious throughout the other bestselling pieces.
sillhouette research To correctly forecast silhouettes and fabric to suit the consumer of Whistles Spring Summer 2019, I have reviewed Whistles’ previous Spring/ Summer 2017 collection, as well as the current 2018 assortment. Not only does this highlight how trends can emerge and change, but will help me to identify the core products of a Whistles Spring/Summer collection and what fabrics are most favoured.
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SS17 Whistles Spring Summer 2017 comprised of loose fitting garments, based around a yellow colour palette. Bardot cut tops were popular, alongside patterned tops with co-ordinating bottoms. Typically, the fabrics used were polyester, cotton and silk, which are all lightweight and apt for summer. There was also a formal, lace dress, which adds occasion wear to a fairly casual collection.
SS18 Similarly, to Spring Summer 2017, Spring Summer 2018 embraces relaxed fitting garments and the wide-leg jumpsuit is also popular. The 2018 collection contains a broader variety of jackets, contrasting a masculine utility silhouette with a delicate, pastel blue leather jacket. Recurring garments from both collections include: lightweight blouses, midi skirts, relaxed-fit dresses and wide-leg bottoms.
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SS19 WGSN WGSN is useful when researching silhouettes, as reports for Spring Summer 2019 forecast trends and key shapes, providing background information for my collection. To conform to Whistles brand identity, it is essential to choose silhouettes that the customer is comfortable with and will purchase. WGSN have predicted that pleated midi skirts will be a key item for SS19 (WGSN, 2017). This silhouette adheres with Whistles as midi skirts have been featured in previous Spring Summer collections. The target customer chooses a relaxed fit due to her age and WGSN have predicted this also to be a key trend (WGSN, 2018).
textile view Textile View also proved beneficial when researching silhouettes. Their vision ‘balance’ described relaxed fits, to suit daily life (Textile View, 2018). Directly appealing to the target customer of Whistles, as simplicity and comfort is crucial.
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finalising key silhouettes To begin designing the Whistles SS19 range plan, central silhouettes must be established. By looking at trend forecasting companies, as well as Whistles’ previous collections, it is evident that the silhouettes chosen will be positively received by the consumer. Within the product range there are core silhouettes which recur regularly every season; however, each designer brings a new interpretation (Stecker, 1996), keeping the consumer immersed.
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wide leg A wide leg silhouette will be used on certain trouser and jumpsuit garments. As Farra (2018) describes, a wide leg bottom and elevated waistline elongates your body, flattering any figure. Therefore, this silhouette is perfect for the target consumer, as she searches for a garment shape to enhance her body.
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midi The midi length dress and skirt is a popular silhouette used by Whistles throughout all seasonal collections. It is a very versatile shape that can be worn casually or for an occasion. For the target customer, it is a suitable skirt length as a mini would not prove popular with the 45-55-yearold consumer; however, it is still feminine and can be manipulated with a variety of materials.
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cropped The cropped trouser provides a more contemporary revision of the midiskirt (the WGSN Catwalks team, 2015). Whether the trousers are skinny, flared or wide leg, the cropped silhouette provides a luxury aesthetic and provides a spring summer update on regular length bottoms.
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relaxed Whistles regularly designs relaxed fitting garments, as the brand promotes effortlessness and “7 days a week apparel� (Whistles, 2018). The relaxed fit not only creates a comfortable wear ability for the consumer, it additionally does not cling to the body, avoiding undesirable appearances.
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utility According to Textile View’s ‘Balance’ trend concept (2018), utility shaped garments are a staple for Spring Summer 2019. With a focus on a simple life, this trend concept echoes the Whistles customers’ likings and the utility silhouette is designed for the casual, throw-on outfit.
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wrap waist The final silhouette featured in the range plan, is a wrap waist. The wrapped silhouette can be used on dresses or tops and creates an illusion of a shapelier figure. The simple addition of a belt transforms the standard silhouette of a garment.
range plan After accumulating research on mood, colour, fabrics and silhouettes, it is possible to begin the SS19 range plan. By using WGSN (2018) flats as a foundation, I have further altered and added to the silhouettes to tailor the designs to the Whistles consumer and the trend concept.
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figure 125: stella jean ss18
v-neck t-shirt
figure 126: carolina herrera ss18 The t-shirt is an essential garment for any wardrobe (Zeegan, 2009); therefore, it is vital to include in the range plan. The V-neck t-shirt is the most basic garment of the product range and it takes inspiration from dramatic plunging necklines on the SS18 runway, yet represents a modest staple item for the Whistles target consumer.
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figure 127: paul and joe ss18
POPLIN BOWLING SHIRT figure 128: acne studios ss18 The poplin bowling shirt is a smart top suitable for the professional woman with a desire for on-trend clothing that will allow her to stand out. The SS18 designer runways showcased sheer bowling shirts; however, the Whistles consumer is more accepting of an opaque material, such as cotton poplin.
figure 129: tommy hilfiger ss18
figure 130: zimmermann ss18
cropped slim leg trousers
The cropped trousers provide a casual bottom for the collection, creating a stylish pairing for either of the tops. The cropped length acknowledges the trend of unique silhouettes and the tailored slim-leg is flattering to any body shape.
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figure 131: paul and joe ss18
utility pocket midi skirt figure 132: nina ricci ss18 Whistles continuously design midi-skirts in spring/ summer collections; however, the silhouette is usually dainty and feminine, with the use of a lightweight material. To contrast, the SS19 utility skirt with oversized pockets creates a masculine shape, yet the cinched waist provides a womanly hour-glass figure. Maggioni (2018) predicts the utility trend to pick up pace for S/S19, making Whistles on-trend for the season.
figure 133: junko shimada ss18
utility jacket
figure 134: chanel ss18 With every spring/summer collection, it is essential to create a jacket that is easy to throw on during the colder temperatures. The jacket designed for the SS19 Whistles collection is utility-style inspired by a WGSN cropped jacket silhouette. The decision to alter the cropped original design was due to the target customer, as a longer-line garment seemed more appropriate.
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figure 135: valentino ss18
loose wide-leg jumpsuit figure 136: vivienne westwood ss18 Jumpsuits are another garment favoured by Whistles in spring/summer collections. Similar to the midi skirt, this relaxed-fit jumpsuit juxtaposes the feminine, tailored designs previously sold by the brand. The wide-leg, cropped silhouette also recognises the trend concept, encouraging a liberated elegance.
figure 137: paul smith ss18
wrap midi tea dress figure 138: dolce and gabbana ss18 The wrap tea dress is the more casual silhouette out of the two dresses in the Whistles product range. The dress embraces a 1940’s nostalgia, as Maggioni (2018) explains, the silhouette is feminine and sophisticated.
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figure 139: givenchy ss18
layered midi dress figure 140: dazy shely ss18 The final garment is a more formal midi dress comprising of a square neckline and layered silhouette. It is the ultimate spring/summer outfit for the woman who likes to stay modest but stand out and show off her distinctive style.
pricing In order to correctly price the Whistles SS19 collection, research of current prices was necessary. Whistles’ market position cements the brand firmly between high street retailers and luxury brands (Ruddick, 2013), therefore it is essential that premium prices are offered to customers to reflect the quality of the products and the superior brand identity. By using a premium pricing strategy, Whistles differentiates its product from other retailers and uphold a desired image (Rao and Kartono, 2009). By choosing a garment from the Whistles website similar to the products in my range plan, it is achievable to gain a clear understanding of how to price the SS19 collection.
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figure 141 : Rosa Double Trim T-Shirt £35
figure 144 : broderie button through skirt £129
figure 142: lea savannah print Shirt £95
figure 143: linen trouser £99
figure 145: longline denim workwear jacket £119
figure 146: sahara print mara jumpsuit £139
figure 147 : abigail frill wrap tea dress £159
figure 148 : peony print tiered dress £199
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sizing Lastly, before finalising the range plan, it is vital to research the sizes in which Whistles sells, so that all current customers are catered for and the SS19 collection maintains Whistles procedures. When looking on the Whistles website and instore, the sizes 4-16 are commonly stocked. This widespread size range is inclusive of most consumers and allows women of all sizes to enjoy Whistles garments.
v-neck T-shirt Size Range: XS-L Colours: Yellow Pattern, White, Navy. Fabric: 100% Cotton Jersey Selling Price: ÂŁ39
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poplin bowling shirt Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Beige, Green Pattern, Coral Rose Fabric: 100% Organic Cotton Selling Price: ÂŁ89
cropped slim leg trousers Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Black, Pastel Blue Fabric: 100% Linen Selling Price: ÂŁ99
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utility pocket midi skirt Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Navy, Grey, Beige Fabric: 100% Lightweight Linen Selling Price: ÂŁ134
utility jacket Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Grey, Black Fabric: 100% Cotton Selling Price: ÂŁ109
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loose wide-leg jumpsuit Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Green Pattern, Coral Rose Fabric: 100% Viscose Selling Price: ÂŁ149
wrap midi tea dress Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Yellow Pattern, White Polka Dot Fabric: 100% Cotton Selling Price: ÂŁ169
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layered midi dress Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Blue, Rosewater Fabric: 100% Polyester Selling Price: ÂŁ199
whistles ss19 range plan
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marketing recommendations To support the launch of the Whistles SS19 product range, effective marketing must be implemented in order to reach the target consumer and gain upmost brand awareness. Determining a flawless promotional strategy allows a business to understand where it is now, where it wants to be and how it should get there (Lea-Greenwood, 2013), in order to be successful and gain profit.
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“Visual merchandising puts the art and design back into retail.� (Bailey and Baker,2014 pp.6)
visual merchandising Firstly, the visual merchandising must embody the trend concept, Aspire, yet maintain Whistles’ simplistic aesthetic. Store atmospherics can provide a competitive advantage for a brand (Zhu, 2009); therefore, Whistles must take advantage of a creative method in displaying products. Using minimalistic rails to display the clothes allows the brand to experiment with the rest of the stores interior. Hanging objects will be used to resemble a Middle-Easter bazaar, immersing the customer into the inspiration behind the SS19 collection. Furthermore, Whistles accessories will be used to accentuate the colours and encourage additional sales alongside the new product range.
launch event There will also be a launch event before the collection arrives in stores, in order to generate as much media coverage and consumer interest beforehand. In relation to the AIDA model, the launch event will stimulate consumer interest so that the desire to purchase is subsequently followed (Cope and Maloney, 2016). The poster shown in Figure 154, acts as an invitation sent to influencers within fashion. Bloggers, such as Not Dead Yet Style, will be invited in the hope that they will document the day and discuss the new collection with the target consumer. The event will offer one free garment to every attendee, so that the product is on the street as a walking advertisement.
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Figure 154
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final reflection During Phase 2 of the Trends and Forecasting project, I have utilised forecasting tools such as WGSN and Textile View, to assist the journey to creating the SS19 collection for Whistles. These companies provide a baseline for thoughts and designs, where it is possible to adapt upcoming trends to a target consumer, such as Artistic Alison. Seminars were helpful during the research process, as they allowed me to share my work with my peers and gain critical feedback; as well as set specific objectives to complete in forthcoming weeks. Being given the opportunity to discuss my work to a peer in the seminar of Week 9, enabled me to value the details of the collection and the large amount of research I have conducted to get to the finished product. The collection I have produced fully appreciates the preferences of the target consumer, and fulfils their needs in response to the trend concept, Aspire. The use of bright colours acknowledges the Middle-Eastern women’s movement and the relaxed silhouette provides a subtle femininity.
reference list Bailey, S., and Baker, J. 2014. Visual Merchandising for Fashion. London and New York: Bloomsbury Publishing. Farra, E. 2018. Desperately Seeking the Perfect Spring Pant? This Might Be It. [Online]. [Accessed 22nd April 2018]. Available from: https:// www.vogue.com/article/maria-stanley-perfect-summer-pants Hopkins, J. 2012. Fashion Design: The Complete Guide. Switzerland: AVA Publishing. Indvik, L. 2014. How Whistles Re-emerged as One Of The Most Exciting Contemporary Brands In Fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 24th February 2018]. Available from: https://fashionista.com/2014/05/whistles-ceo-jane-shepherdson King, J.A. 2011. Colour trend forecasting and its influence on the fashion and textile industry. In: Briggs-Goode, J., and Townsend, K. eds. Textile Design: Principles, Advances and Applications. Philadelphia: Woodhead Publishing, pp. 193-205. Lea-Greenwood, G. 2013. Fashion Marketing Communications. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons. Makkonen, S. Some Properties of Linen Fabric. [Online]. [Accessed 6th March 2018]. Available from: https://www.linenfabrics.co.uk/linen-fabrics-wholesaler-properties-of-linen Maggioni, S. 2018. Buyers’ Briefing S/S19: Womenswear Details. [Online]. [Accessed 6th March 2018]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam. leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78251/page/9 Maggioni, S. 2018. Buyer’s Briefing S/S19: Womenswear Key Messages & Looks. [Online]. [Accessed 6th March 2018]. Available from: https://0www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78247/page/10 Mendelson, C. 1999. Home Comforts: The Art and Science of Keeping House. New York: Scribner. Momtaz, R. 2018. What life is like now for women in Saudi Arabia: Reporter’s Notebook. [Online]. [Accessed 6th March 2018]. Available from: https://abcnews.go.com/International/life-now-women-saudi-arabia-reporters-notebook/story?id=53849924 Oliphant, R. 2017. Saudi Arabia urged to ditch ‘male guardianship’ law after lifting ban on female drivers. [Online]. [Accessed 6th March 2018]. Available from: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/09/27/saudi-arabia-urged-ditch-male-guardianship-law-lifting-ban-female/
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Palmer, H., and Skliarova, J. 2017. Women’s Textiles Forecast S/S 19: Common Ground. [Online]. [Accessed 6th March 2018]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/73240/ page/2 Posner, H. 2015. Marketing Fashion: Strategy, Branding and Promotion: Second Edition. London: Laurence King Publishing. Rao, V. R., and Kartono, B. 2009. Pricing objectives and strategies; a cross-country survey. In: Rao, V.R. ed. Handbook of Pricing Research in Marketing. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar Publishing, pp. 9-36. Ruddick, G. 2013. Fashion Retailer’s Radical Change of Clothes. [Online]. [Accessed 4th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.telegraph. co.uk/finance/1000-companies-inspire-britain/10485768/fashion-retailer-clothes.html Shopping Spy. 2014. Whistles X Elle: This Is What a Feminist Looks Like. [Online]. [Accessed 4th April 2018]. Available from: http://myshoppingspy.com/events/whistles-x-elle-what-feminist-looks Stecker, P. 1996. The Fashion Design Manual. South Yarra: Macmillan Education Australia. Udale, J. 2008. Basics Fashion Design 02: Textiles and Fashion. Switzerland: AVA Publishing. Udale, J. 2014. Textiles and Fashion: Exploring Printed Textiles, Knitwear, Embroidery, Menswear and Womenswear. Second Edition. London and New York: Bloomsbury Publishing. Unilever. 2017. Report shows a third of consumers prefer sustainable brands. [Online]. [Accessed 3rd April 2018]. Available from: https:// www.unilever.com/news/Press-releases/2017/report-shows-a-third-of-consumers-prefer-sustainable-brands.html Textile View. 2018. Textile View S/S 2019. (121). The WGSN Catwalks Team. 2015. The Wide Cropped Trouser. [Online]. [Accessed 22nd April 2018]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam. leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/59085/page/1 WGSN. 2018. S/S19 Category Update: V-neck. [Online]. [Accessed 22nd April 2018]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78641/page/8 WGSN. 2017. Design Development S/S19: Dresses and Skirts. . [Online]. [Accessed 22nd April 2018]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam. leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/74166/page/4 Whistles. 2018. About Us. [Online]. [Accessed 4th February 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/whistles/aboutus.html
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figures list Figure 1 - http://www.whistles.com/look-book/womens-campaign-ss18.html Figure 2 - https://www.milkseaimages.com/whistles18/zj9tkv3grum8w999ysxsr5fd1zc9ui Figure 3 - http://www.whistles.com/look-book/womens-campaign-ss18.html Figure 4 - http://www.whistles.com/look-book/womens-campaign-ss18.html Figure 5 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/437271445063558031/ Figure 6 - https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2017/08/trump-signs-memo-banning-transgender-military-recruits-170826003421108.html Figure 7 - https://www.npr.org/2014/08/13/339888170/smartphone-appshelp-to-battle-campus-sexual-assaults Figure 8 - https://www.personneltoday.com/hr/five-steps-to-addressingthe-gender-pay-gap/ Figure 9 - https://www.usnews.com/news/world/articles/2018-01-13/hundreds-of-poles-protest-against-proposed-abortion-restrictions Figure 10 - https://www.pinterest.com/pin/8514686770940420/ Figure 11 - https://twitter.com/theresa_may Figure 12 - https://twitter.com/realdonaldtrump Figure 13 - https://www.washingtonexaminer.com/opinion/saudi-arabias-first-female-cycle-race-serves-us-national-security Figure 14 - https://twitter.com/reinagattuso Figure 15 - https://www.instagram.com/p/Bas-l24lWpE/?taken-by=thatsnotmyage Figure 16 - https://www.politico.com/magazine/politico50/2015/aliciagarza-patrisse-cullors-opal-tometi Figure 17 - http://www.empoweredbirthproject.com/blog/2015/04/03/ fed-is-best-formula-substitute-recipe Figure 18 - http://www.seasons.agency/en-us/search#![SATopic-beauty]/ [Sort-Date] Figure 19 – https://www.david-davies.org.uk/news/conservative-or-tory Figure 20 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/506373551837188815/
Figure 21 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/524317581612325643/ Figure 22 - http://logo-logos.com/whistles-logo-73.html Figure 23 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/443182419575134119/ Figure 24 -https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/401594491755254635/ Figure 25 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/163396292711070200/ Figure 26 - https://www.johnlewis.com Figure 27- https://www.123rf.com/photo_22397981_portrait-of-sweet-50year-old-couple.html Figure 28 -https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/343258802843717136/ Figure 29-
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/6755468166463610/
Figure 30 - https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/le-fashion-39894/master-olivia-palermos-chic-layered-fall-5158079385 Figure 31- https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/544443042437427063/ Figure 32 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/237846424050741093/ Figure 33 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/236790892890414226/ Figure 34 - https://www.zara.com Figure 35 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/44965696257575871/ Figure 36 -
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/682576887248003593/
Figure 37 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/310678074285215234/ Figure 38 - https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/ Figure 39 - https://www.wellandgood.com/good-food/pret-a-manger-new-vegetarian-vegan-menu/ Figure 40 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/228487381080376136/ Figure 41 - http://wheretoget.it/look/3168404 Figure 42 - http://www.alejandradeargos.com/index.php/en/all-articles/35-artists/527-elizabeth-peyton-biography-works-exhibitions Figure 43 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/247909154465069599/ Figure 44 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/569283209128266117/
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Figure 45- https://www.jamieoliver.com/news-and-features/features/howto-make-the-perfect-cup-of-tea/ Figure 46 - https://saltpepperskillet.com/recipes/grilled-rack-of-lamb/ Figure 47 - https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-5197595-stock-footage-attractive-couple-raising-toast-with-glass-of-the-red-wine.html Figure 48 - https://www.womensprizeforfiction.co.uk/reading-room/eventsold/bwpff-whistles-thisbookclub-live Figure 49 - https://www.pinterest.com/pin/347199452503069840/ Figure 50 - https://intu.co.uk/braehead/stores/marks-spencer Figure 51 - http://www.warehouse.co.uk/gb Figure 52 https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2018/01/whistles-bounces-back-fromloss-with-annual-sales-growth/ Figure 53 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whistles-women-lottie-murphy.html Figure 54 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/limited-edition-ss18. html Figure 55 - http://www.whistles.com/women/new-in/ Figure 56 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/stutterheim-x-whistles. html Figure 57 - http://www.tillyjayne.com/2015/04/new-in-whistles-riley-ankle-boots.html Figure 58 - http://www.twinfactory.co.uk/index.php/this-is-what-a-feminist-looks-like/ Figure 59 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/559572322431305503/?lp=true Figure 60 - http://showstudio.com/contributor/jane_shepherdson Figure 61 - http://www.whistles.com/journal/news/Whistles-mens-storeopens-in-east-London-20-25-October.html Figure 62 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whistles-women-michelle-kennedy.html Figure 63 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whistles-women-michelle-kennedy.html Figure 64 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/80220437088162318/?lp=true
Figure 65 - http://consciousmagazine.co/the-feminist-shirt-controversy/ Figure 66 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/177188566560448382/ Figure 67- https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/266416134182446690/ Figure 68 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/7248049372840124/ Figure 69 - https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/73433/page/1 Figure 70 - https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/72348/page/2 Figure 71 -https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/73433/page/1 Figure 72 – Authors Own, scanned from Premiere Vision Booklet. Figure 73 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/205406432978764533/ Figure 74- https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/375065475186700516/ Figure 75 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/446841594250779560/ Figure 76 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/695876579897374864/ Figure 77 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/416653403000328236/ Figure 78 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/158611218108423748/ Figure 79 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/390616967654126448/ Figure 80 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/558446422521557496/ Figure 81 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/306033737166573904/ Figure 82 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/515521488572851421/ Figure 83 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/572097958885671464/ Figure 84 - https://www.pantone.com Figure 85 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/506092076853031438/ Figure 86 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/342414377890256669/ Figure 87 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/479492691553613102/ Figure 88 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/Adr1Ohec5K_t96M72FK_IYIg7rHQvV1yjw_yNgvP_cA8uXlx1goQnzY/
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Figure 89 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/307370743312220243/ Figure 90 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/433753007843509207/ Figure 91 - https://www.pantone.com Figure 92 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/4714774594263624/ Figure 93 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/780389441650591976/ Figure 94 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/166422148702283827/ Figure 95 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/354447433166313989/ Figure 96 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/204491639309781275/ Figure 97 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/520447300676727800/ Figure 98 - http://www.whistles.com Figure 99 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/the-print-edit.html Figure 100-103 - https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_ viewer/#/73240/page/1 Figure 104- Authors Own, taken from Textile View. Figure 105 – http://www.whistles.com Figure 106 – http://www.whistles.com/look-book/ss17-womens-lookbook.html Figure 107 - http://www.whistles.com/look-book/ss17-womens-lookbook.html Figure 108-
http://www.whistles.com/look-book/womens-campaign-ss18.html
Figure 109 –https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/ - /78249/page/23 Figure 110 – Authors own, taken from Textile View. Figure 111 – http://www.whistles.com/look-book/ss17-womens-lookbook.html Figure 112 – https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/40a18862fbddfeeb2cbb2142a51ecc64/wide%20leg%20|cropped Figure 113 – http://www.bittersweetcolours.com/sunflower-yellow/ Figure 114 – https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/436286282638531795/ Figure 115 – https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/209487820150213519/ Figure 116 – https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/509047564122862627/
Figure 117 – https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/40a18862fbddfeeb2cbb2142a51ecc64/cropped Figure 118 – https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/471470654727464410/ Figure 119 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/438749188689954618/ Figure 120 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/569635052858405522/ Figure 121 – https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/bc5d9ced1cfebaf744251b15fe5e3d41/^Cargo%2FUtility Figure 122 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/AWm-JM0MlCiXGDwM_St9p5WDIlLquAMsMBJC4T9qcU5ZPiAS72uCtuw/ Figure 123 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/ATIduq1j3bqnT0T4n1VG6CwRyBSEghq_BWPeV6hDO1QUgnIbKheBFno/ Figure 124 - http://www.whistles.com/women/sale/trousers/nao-wide-legtrouser-21963.html Figure 125 - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/stella-jean Figure 126 – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/carolina-herrera Figure 127 – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/paul-joe Figure 128 - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/acne-studios Figure 129 – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/tommy-hilfiger Figure 130 - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/zimmermann Figure 131 - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/paul-joe Figure 132 – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/nina-ricci Figure 133 - https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-shows/shows/defile/printemps-ete-2018-paris-junko-shimada/23336 Figure 134 - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/chanel
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Figure 135 – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/valentino Figure 136 - http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-towear/vivienne-westwood-pre/collection Figure 137 – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/paul-smith Figure 138 - http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-towear/dolce-gabbana Figure 139 - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/givenchy Figure 140 - http://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2018/milan/ daizy-shely/review/ Figure 141-148 - http://www.whistles.com Figure 149 - http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/different-strokes-whistles-swim-ss18.html Figure 150 – http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whistles-neighbourhood-central-london.html Figure 151 – https://www.mind-mag.com/retail/the-reclamation-of-cool-atwhistles/ Figure 152 – https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/374713631474913268/ Figure 153 - https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/65372632067591193/ Figure 154 – https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/699043173380695109/ Figure 155 – http://www.whistles.com/look-book/womens-campaign-ss18.html Figure 156 -
All Design Flats are from WGSN. 2018. SS19. https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam. leeds.ac.uk/library/results/f4c51a2736fde26b7cb3bc88a52ec81e/ Yellow and Purple Pattern on range plan - http://ethnikcity.com/product. php?item=Ankara-fabric-with-purple-spiral-pattern20170222090826 Spot cotton voile on range plan - http://showtimefabrics.co.uk/DobbySpot-White