trend package - olivia clifton 201024838
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contents Introduction
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Customer Profile
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Brand Profile
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The Autonomous Woman Lifestyle Trend
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Trend Concept: Aspire
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Aspire & Whistles
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Mood
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Colour
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Yarns & Fabrics
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Key Silhouettes
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Range Plan
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Marketing Suggestions
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Conclusion
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Appendix
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Reference List
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Figures List
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introduction This trend package has been carefully designed for the buying and design team at Whistles and presents a range plan for the SS19 season. The lifestyle trend – The Autonomous Woman – has been developed and researched with response to shifting drivers. Included in the package is colours, fabrics and silhouettes in response to the mood of the trend concept, Aspire. The Aspire concept is derived from the Autonomous Woman and has been tailored to the Whistles’ brand identity and target consumer.
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CUSTOMER profile
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The target consumers are professional women aged 40-55. Although they are classified as middle-aged, in a recent survey 80% of 40-plus women do not live their lives based on societies expectations (Hardy, 2017). These women are educated, with a degree from an esteemed university and work in a busy occupation. They are happily married with children that no longer live with them and are in a comfortable financial situation; however, their partner is likely to earn more. They have conservative political views and women’s rights are an issue that they like to actively involve themselves in, whether that is in an online or local community. They work full-time during the week, making the evenings and weekend a time to relax and spend time with family. Art is a significant hobby for the target consumer, allowing them to wind-down after a busy day and work towards a goal in their personal life. Browsing social media is an important part of their day, using it not only for connecting with friends, but also looking for artistic and style inspiration on websites such as Pinterest. As said by the Office for National Statistics (Hart, 2016), there are more Midults (35-54-yearolds) than Millennials online daily, exhibiting a shift in the Generation X’s previous sceptical attitude towards technology (Kopanicová and Klepochová, 2016). With regards to fashion, the latest trends are not their priority and they will invest in timeless pieces that support their sustainability values and fabric quality preferences (Littrell et al, 2005). Although not fully trend-led, they always strive to look polished and well presented.
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ARTISTIC ALISON Buying personas are beneficial as they provide a clear end goal and focus throughout the design process (Yu and Lin, 2009). After conducting consumer interviews to Whistles customers (see appendix), Artistic Alison was formed to represent the buying persona for the Autonomous Woman lifestyle trend.
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Name: Alison Perkins Age: 52 Marital Status: Married (1 child, no longer at home) Location: Hemel Hempstead Occupation: Art Teacher Annual Income: £40,000 Education: Bachelor of Arts Degree in Fine Art and PGCE Interest and Opinions: Conservative political view, concerned with women’s rights and gender equality, enjoys: art, reading and cooking Motivations: To enjoy a sense of well-being and to express her artistic taste through fashion 20
Shopping Behaviour: She will make time once a month to go shopping on a weekend; however, prefers to online shop due to convenience Fashion Needs: Middle-high market fashion is her preference, as she prefers good quality and ethical garments. Her wardrobe is full of a variety of garments, patterns and colours Favourite Brands: Whistles, Jigsaw, Warehouse, Marks & Spencers Brands She Aspires To Wear: Vivienne Westwood, Ulla Johnson, Dianne Von Furtsenburg
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THE LIFE OF ALISON Alison Perkins is a 52-year-old art teacher who lives in a cottage in Hemel Hempstead. She is married and has one child, who no longer lives in the family home. After gaining a Bachelor of Arts Degree in Fine Art and subsequently achieving a PGCE for teaching, she has worked at a public secondary school as an art teacher. She earns a steady income of £40,000 per year; however, disposable income spent on luxury’s is provided by her higher earning husband. Alison and her husband hold conservative political views; however, they are unhappy with the decision to leave the EU, causing political uncertainty. Alison classes herself as a feminist and likes to express her views on social media. From time to time she will engage in activist events, to express solidarity with women from around the world. Weekdays are busy for Alison as she has a long day at work, and spends most of her evening preparing for the next day. However, she loves her job and devotes her career to helping children realise their artistic abilities.
To relax, she enjoys cooking a hearty meal for her husband and unwinding on the sofa with a glass of wine. Although her job involves art, she also spends her spare time in her home office painting and browsing online for inspiration. In terms of shopping preferences, she likes to browse on the internet throughout the week; however, prefers to make purchases instore. This is so that she is able to feel the quality of the garments and easily try them on to ensure they fit correctly. She likes to go shopping regularly with family or friends, as Alison considers it a hobby. She needs fashion to be suitable for work as well as weekend activities and a flattering fit is essential for her confidence. Furthermore, unusual patterns and colours are what draw her to products as she likes to be unique in comparison to her peers.
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whistles brand profile
Owned by the UK division of the Foschini Group (Sutherland, 2018), Whistles is a contemporary, middlemarket fashion brand centred in London (Whistles, 2018). Founded in 1976 and retailing in over 140 stores, the brand has cemented a respected spot on the UK high street, as well as Europe, Asia and the US. The brand provides modern fashion for the busy, professional woman and focuses on delivering high quality garments. Jane Shepherdson, former CEO, exclaimed Whistles is “for people who want to buy beautiful quality clothes but can’t afford designer prices” (Long, 2008). The aesthetic is minimalistic but trend-led, showcasing innovative designs without pushing the customer too far. 26
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During the global economic recession of 2008, Whistles had a brand reformation. Jane Shepherdson, former Topshop chief, became CEO with premeditated ideas to grow the brand as a luxury-high street retailer and expand its consumer base (Vogue, 2008). As Shepherdson thrived, Whistles wholly reinvented itself, launching a new website and creating a new product that exuded “effortlessness” (Indvik, 2014). The brand identity had transformed into what it is today, which was evidently successful as Whistles’ sales were up 22% only 4 years after the change (Elle UK, 2012).
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brand responsibility Whistles is an avid supporter of feminism and equality. A 2014 collaboration with Elle UK and the Fawcett Society, saw Whistles create a product range dedicated to the slogan “this is what a feminist looks like” (Elle UK, 2014). The collection effectively spread awareness for feminism, with both female and male celebrities and politicians wearing the t-shirts, establishing Whistles as an activist equal rights brand. In addition to women’s rights, Whistles is an advocate for sustainable, ethical supply chains, a mounting issue within 21st century fashion where consumers are demanding more information on the manufacturing processes of their garment (Lai et al, 2017). Priding “fairness, integrity and transparency” (Whistles, 2018) at the heart of the brands values, Whistles communicates to customers that garments are produced in fair, moral conditions. As well as the principal womenswear collection, Whistles have more recently introduced menswear and bridal, with their own league of loyal customers enjoying the simplistic “Whistles look” (Bain, 2014).
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After the departure of Shepherdson in 2016, Whistles has continued success across the globe, reporting sales up 18% on the previous year (Roberts, 2018). After publishing the gender pay gap report (Whistles, 2018), it is clear that the brand stays true to its core values as there is no income inequality, a reassurance to the conscious female consumer.
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lifestyle trend: the autonomous woman With controversial economic issues such as the gender pay gap and the #metoo sexual assault movement, the general public have been forced to re-evaluate how females are treated in today’s society (Saul, 2018). The Autonomous Woman is an example of the independent, strong-minded women tackling these issues and defying gender stereotypes in their personal life and career. Various waves of feminism have passed, triggering mixed opinions of the movement. “Feminism has been associated with strong, forceful and angry women” (Caprino, 2017) and many people are intimidated by the word “feminist”. However, the 21st century feminist movement has almost become ‘fashionable’ (Harveston, 2017) for women of all ages, and social media has profoundly impacted on this. 36
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“There are two powers in the world; one is the sword and the other is the pen. There is a third power stronger than both, that of women.� Malala Yousafzai, 2016, pp.31
Optimistic Progression In recent years, celebrities have used social media to encourage equality. Notable individuals such as, Emma Watson, Lady GaGa and Will Smith are among the many to endorse a non-discriminating society. Cultural icons representing women’s rights disseminates the Autonomous Woman to a huge audience. As previously forecasted on the trend cartogram, the Autonomous Woman lifestyle trend is also being developed through technology. Mobile applications such as ‘Gender Fair’ publish statistics regarding women in business, as well as companies’ sustainability efforts, making information easily available to enthused individuals. The progression in the Western world is steady and oriented around the accessibility of technology; however, women in Eastern countries are experiencing radical advancement. “Saudi Arabia is the world’s most gender-segregated nation” (Gorney, 2016), where men have almost complete control over the choices and lives of women. Nevertheless, with the recent development allowing Saudi women to drive, there has been revolutionary progress, described by Saudi blogger Aljazi Alrakan (Gorney, 2016) “women carry themselves more confidently”. This notion of confidence and independence is the driver of the Autonomous Woman and though gender equality is not yet globally achieved, positive advances have changed lives for many (Orr, 2018). 42
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trend concept: aspire To unite research into the Autonomous Woman lifestyle trend and the target consumer, the trend concept, Aspire, is created for a Spring Summer 2019 collection. Due to the recent advancement in traditional laws for Saudi Arabia women, Aspire is centred around continued liberty to give women an independent lifestyle. Chulov (2018), describes the “new mood” in Saudi Arabia, due to the recent changes, such as women being allowed to drive. Therefore, this shift in oppression is an exciting attitude to echo through fashion. The word ‘Aspire’ connotes hope and the desire to achieve something great, similarly to the Saudi women who aspire to break traditional societal laws. However, this change is already evident and the upcoming generation of Saudi women are beginning to disregard societal standards (Thomson, 2018). With popular Arabian Instagram stars, such as Aljazi Alrakan, paving the way for middle-eastern women’s empowerment, the trend concept encompasses this contemporary shift. Aspire takes inspiration from Middle Eastern colours, fabrics and patterns and incorporates the zeitgeist of freedom into feminine silhouettes. The colour palette comprises vibrant colours that accent the neutral core shades. 44
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Aspire & whistles
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Whistles’ brand ethos is centred around empowering women through fashion and it strives to create a positive difference in communities in which the brand operates (Whistles, 2018). The trend concept is suitable for Whistles as it directly reflects the corporate values and the idea of liberation is expressed throughout Whistles’ social media accounts, with posts educating consumers about the present political climate. As the target consumer actively expresses feminist views and wishes for global change, Whistles can offer products to reflect their freespirit and aspiration to make a positive impact.
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mood
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colour palette: arabian spice Colours are regarded as one of the most important aspects of design, drawing immediate attention to garments when consumers are browsing (Sumathi, 2002), therefore it is essential that the colours represent the brand identity as well as being aesthetically pleasing. In order to remain in line with Whistles’ current colour palettes, Arabian Spice comprises of neutral core colours and selected vibrant hues inspired by Middle Eastern culture and the trend concept, Aspire. Arabian Spice consists of 12 colours for the SS19 Whistles collection.
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core colours The chosen core colours will dominate the colour palette for the collection, as they provide a base for patterns and the accent colours (Diane and Cassidy, 2005). The neutral colours represent calm and stability, as they remain popular and well-liked by consumers throughout fashion seasons. 64
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accent colours The accent colours exhibit ethnic roots, as the vibrant tones display a contemporary discovery of cultural influences (Boddy, 2018). Spectra Yellow and Coral Rose reflect the zeitgeist of protest and expression (Boddy, 2018), whereas Rosewater and Patrician Purple demonstrate a feminine edge. The deep green shade symbolises growth and harmony (Pastoureau, 2014), directly inspired by the trend concept. Lapis Blue is derived from the precious stone symbolising power (Energy Muse Jewelry, 2017), a royal colour to add to this influential collection. Overall, these colours, beside the core colour palette, provide an intense foundation for the designs of the Whistles SS19 collection.
yarns and fabrics Yarns and fabrics contribute to much more than the aesthetic of a garment, they additionally determine the comfort and fit (Boorady, 2011). Consumers regard fabric as one of the most important aspects when purchasing a garment (Castelo and Cabral, 2018), therefore it is essential to select appropriate materials for the target consumer and brand. The current trend within ethically sourced fabrics (Udale, 2008) parallels Whistles’ brand ethos, thus a selection of the key fabrics in the SS19 range will embrace a sustainable quality. 68
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single jersey, mercerized A treatment used on fabrics such as cotton, mercerizing decreases the woolly texture and creates a more lustrous effect (Hallett and Johnson, 2014). Choosing a mercerized jersey fabric improves quality of the appearance of a garment and makes the simplest garment seem luxurious, in comparison to standard jersey.
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organic cotton poplin Whistles use cotton as a core fabric throughout many designs and it is important to include an ethically sourced fabric, to echo Whistles’ brand values. This organic cotton is perfect for lightweight garments, such as shirts, and is responsibly handled throughout the supply chain (Ray Stitch, 2018).
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cupro jersey
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Cupro is a high-end fabric due to its unique lustre and effortless drape characteristics (Goswami et all, 2004), therefore a suitable material for the Whistles SS19 collection as it radiates quality and longevity. By combining cupro and jersey, it creates a lightweight fabric that can adapt to a relaxed fitting garment.
cotton voile Cotton voile is a super lightweight material with a net-like appearance (Hallett and Johnson, 2014). The fabric is perfect for a spring/summer collection as it can be easily applied to floaty garments, such as dresses. Figure 88
polyester chiffon Polyester chiffon is most effective used with loose fitting garments that possess a ‘full’ silhouette (Betzina, 2004). Ruffles and layers are easy to make with chiffon which create a feminine outline. Figure 89
lightweight linen Linen is a luxury material which is known for its popularity in spring/summer collections. Linen is a firm and strong bast fibre, adding longevity to a garment (Hallett and Johnson, 2014). Lightweight linen is perfect for loose trousers, shirts and skirts. Figure 90
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cotton twill
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Twill is a weaving style used to create broadwoven fabrics (U.S International Trade Commission, 2001), a suitable textile for jackets. Cotton twill is a mediumweight fabric that is durable and perfect for firm, utility style clothing.
The following pages comprise of swatches of the key fabrics, so that the composition and feel can be appreciated on a 3-dimensional basis.
fabric swatches
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key silhouettes
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The Whistles SS19 collection comprises of 8 key silhouettes, inspired by the trend concept Aspire. The collection is centred around a relaxed fit, which is highlighted by Textile View (2018) as a key trend for the season. The Whistles target consumer demographic likes to feel comfortable in clothes yet maintain a stylish edge, an aesthetic embraced throughout this collection. Although Whistles have previously launched relaxed-fitting garments, the brand focuses on cleancut sophistication. The SS19 collection illustrates a more youthful feel, maintaining the brand identity but experimenting with new shapes.
The key silhouettes are: • V-neck T-shirt • Relaxed bowling shirt • Utility pocket midi skirt • Cropped slim leg trousers • Loose wide-leg jumpsuit • Wrap midi tea dress • Layered midi dress • Utility jacket
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range plan
v-neck T-shirt Size Range: XS-L Colours: Yellow Pattern, White, Navy. Fabric: 100% Cotton Jersey Selling Price: ÂŁ39
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poplin bowling shirt Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Beige, Green Pattern, Coral Rose Fabric: 100% Organic Cotton Selling Price: ÂŁ89
cropped slim leg trousers Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Black, Pastel Blue Fabric: 100% Linen Selling Price: ÂŁ99
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utility pocket midi skirt Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Navy, Grey, Beige Fabric: 100% Lightweight Linen Selling Price: ÂŁ134
utility jacket Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Grey, Black Fabric: 100% Cotton Selling Price: ÂŁ109
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loose wide-leg jumpsuit Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Green Pattern, Coral Rose Fabric: 100% Viscose Selling Price: ÂŁ149
wrap midi tea dress Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Yellow Pattern, White Polka Dot Fabric: 100% Cotton Selling Price: ÂŁ169
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layered midi dress Size Range: 4-16 Colours: Blue, Rosewater Fabric: 100% Polyester Selling Price: ÂŁ199
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marketing suggestions In order to support the launch of the SS19 Whistles collection, a variety of marketing communications will be conducted. It is essential to engage the target consumer before the garments are instore, so that the incentive to purchase is firmly established. As well as social media marketing, experiential marketing will be used to further engross the consumer.
visual merchandising
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The visual merchandising plan for the collection is important as it creates an aesthetically pleasing setting for the garments, setting an atmosphere, as well as maximising sales. Inspiration is taken directly from the Arabian Spice colour palette of the trend concept, appreciating Middle Eastern hues, contrasting the minimalistic Whistles image. Whistles accessories will be used to accentuate the collection and build outfits for consumers. It is important that the minimalist style of Whistles is sustained, in order to maintain the brand identity.
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To celebrate the introduction of the SS19 range into Whistles stores, an exclusive, invite-only launch event will take place in a unique location dedicated to exhibiting the clothes. Launch events submerge attendees in the brand DNA (Cope and Maloney, 2016) and generate masses of media attention, therefore it is an effective tool when disseminating awareness. The theme of the launch will echo the collections trend concept and minimal visual merchandising will accompany the bright garments. Popular bloggers liked by the target consumer, such as Not Dead Yet Style, will be invited in hope that the collection is discussed online.
launch event
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conclusion Whistles will benefit from this trend forecast report as it proposes a well-researched range plan, derived from a culturally conscious trend concept. Being able to calculate future trends is essential for business success (Kim et al, 2011) and will aid Whistles’ competitive advantage in a crowded marketplace, subsequently accelerating growth.
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appendix Customer Interviews To support my customer profiles, I conducted 3 interviews with Whistles customers in the Leeds Victoria Store. The interviews were completed with customers leaving the store with a purchase between 13:00 and 13:45 on Saturday 10th February. C1 Gender: Female Age: 32 Occupation: English Secondary School Teacher Hobbies/Interests: Reading, Arts & Crafts Online/In-store Shopper: In-store Would you class yourself as a feminist? Yes Why do you shop at Whistles? Quality of clothes, trend-led and wide range of clothing C2 Gender: Female Age: 48 Occupation: Hairdresser Hobbies/Interests: Spending time with family, going shopping and browsing online Online/In-store Shopper: In-store Would you class yourself as a feminist? No Why do you shop at Whistles? Products last long and “I love the designs� C3 Gender: Female Age: 52 Occupation: Interior Designer Hobbies/Interests: Online/In-store Shopper: In-store Would you class yourself as a feminist? Yes Why do you shop at Whistles? The products fit and quality 102
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Energy Muse Jewlry. 2017. Lapis Lazuli. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.energymuse.com/lapis-lazuli-meaning Gorney, C. 2016. The Changing Face of Saudi Women. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2016/02/saudi-arabia-women/ Goswami, B.C., Anandjiwala, R.D., and Hall, D.M. 2004. Textile Sizing. New York: Marcell Dekker Inc. Hardy, L. 2017. Why women of 40 and 50 are the new ‘ageless generation’. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/life/women-40-50-new-ageless-generation/ Hart, A. 2016. Meet the women shaping the internet: the Stella magazine 40 over 40. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/work/meet-the-women-shapingthe-internet-the-stella-magazine-40-over/ Harveston, K. 2017. 21st Century Feminism: A Commercial Success? [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://ivn. us/2017/08/23/21st-century-feminism-a-commercial-success/ Indvik, L. 2014. How Whistles Re-emerged As One Of The Most Exciting Contemporary Brands In Fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://fashionista.com/2014/05/whistles-ceo-jane-shepherdson Kim, E., Fiore, A.M., and Kim, H. 2011. London and New York: Berg Publishing. Kopanicová, J., and Klepochová, D. 2016. Consumers in New Millennium: Attitudes towards Adoption of New Technologies in Purchasing Process. Studia Commercialia Bratislavensia. 9(33), pp. 65-74. Lai, ¬Z., Henninger, C.E., and Alevizou, P.J. 2017. An Exploration of Consumers’ Perceptions Towards Sustainable Fashion – A Qualitative Study in the UK. In: Henninger, C.E., Alevizou, P.J., Goworek, H., and Ryding, D. eds. Sustainability in Fashion. Switzerland: Springer Nature, pp. 81-102. Littrell, M. A., and Jin, Y., MA and Halepete, J. 2005. Generation X, Baby Boomers, and Swing: marketing fair trade apparel. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. 9(4), pp. 407-419. Long, C. 2008. Belles and Whistles. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/ fashion/features/belles-and-whistles-922320.html
Orr, J. 2018. The year 1968: the turning point when US social work failed to turn. Critical and Radical Social Work. 6(1), pp. 21–33. Pastoureau, M. 2014. Green: The History of a Colour. Princeton: Princeton University Press. Ray Stitch. 2018. Organic Cotton Poplin – White. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://raystitch.co.uk/organic-cotton-poplin-white Roberts, L. 2018. Whistles significantly reduces losses under the Foschini Group. [Online]. [Accessed 21st April 2018]. Available from: https://www.theindustry.fashion/whistles-returns-profit-foschini-group/ Saul, I. 2018. How To Be A Good Partner To A Survivor Of Sexual Assault. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: http:// aplus.com/a/how-to-be-a-good-partner-to-a-sexual-assault-survivor?no_monetization=true Sumathi, G.J. 2002. Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design. New Delhi: New Age International. Sutherland, E. 2018. Who owns the high street: The Foschini Group. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: https://www. drapersonline.com/retail/the-foschini-group/7029343.article?blocktitle=Whistles:-Feature&contentID=6810 Thomson, S. 2018. Saudi women hope right to drive paves road to bigger freedoms. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: http://www.cbc.ca/news/world/saudi-women-international-womens-day-1.4565776 Udale, J. 2008. Basics Fashion Design 02: Textiles and Fashion. Switzerland: AVA Publishing. U.S International Trade Commission. 2001. Industry & Trade Summary: Broadwoven Fabrics. Collingdale: Diane Publishing Co. Vogue. 2008. Breaking News: Jane Shepherdson At Whistles. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ article/breaking-news-jane-shepherdson-at-whistles Whistles. 2018. About Us. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/whistles/aboutus.html Whistles. 2018. Gender Pay Gap Report. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/on/demandware. static/-/Sites-whistles-Library/default/dw5efa9660/images/Whistles%20Gender%20Pay%20Report.pdf
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Whistles. 2018. Our Responsibility. [Online]. [Accessed 20th April 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/whistles/ourresponsibility.html Yousafzai, M. 2013. I am Malala: The Girl Who Stood Up for Education and Was Shot by the Taliban. New York: Little Brown and Company. Yu, D.J., and Win, W.C. 2009. Facilitating Idea Generation Using Personas. In: Kurosu, M. ed. Human Centered Design, 19-24 July 2009, San Diego. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, pp. 381-388.
figures list Whistles Logo Logos Brands and Logotypes. 2018. Whistles. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://logo-logos.com/whistles-logo-73. html Figures 1-5 – Whistles. 2018. Women’s Campaign SS18. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/lookbook/womens-campaign-ss18.html Figure 6 – Whistles. 2016. Women’s Campaign AW16. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/lookbook/womens-campaign-aw16.html Figure 7 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/204632376798921214/ Figure 8 - Whistles. 2017. Women’s Campaign SS17. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/lookbook/springsummer-2017-campaign.html Figures 9-10 – Whistles. 2016. Women’s Campaign SS16. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/lookbook/campaign-springsummer-2016.html Figure 11 – Whistles. 2018. Whistles Women: Thidaa Roberts. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles. com/inspiration/whistles-women-thidaa-roberts.html Figure 12 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/24277285466743235/ Figures 13-16 - Whistles. 2018. Whistles Women: Thidaa Roberts. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles. com/inspiration/whistles-women-thidaa-roberts.html Figure 17 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/337136722089429340/ Figure 18 – Clelia. 2016. Elizabeth Payton. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.alejandradeargos.com/ index.php/en/all-articles/35-artists/527-elizabeth-peyton-biography-works-exhibitions
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Figure 19 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/413697915754161130/ Figure 20 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/343258802843717136/ Figure 21 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/506373551837188815/ Figure 22 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/6755468166463610/ Figure 23 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/524317581612325643/ Figure 24 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/401594491755254635/ Figure 25 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/163396292711070200/ Figure 26 – 123 Royalty Free. 2018. Portrait of sweet 50-year-old couple. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https:// www.123rf.com/photo_22397981_portrait-of-sweet-50-year-old-couple. html Figure 27 – Whistles. 2018. Urban Explorer. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/urban-explorer.html Figure 28 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/194780752617249721/ Figure 29 - Whistles. 2018. Whistles Neighbourhood: Central London. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whistles-neighbourhood-central-london.html Figure 30 - Whistles. 2018. Whistles Neighbourhood: Liverpool. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/Whistles-neighbourhood-Liverpool.html Figure 31 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/565764771929868215/
Figure 32 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/565764771928782796/ Figure 33 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/517914025872581641/ Figure 34 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/565764771932422661/ Figure 35 - Whistles. 2018. Whistles x by Far. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/ whistles-x-by-far-.html Figure 36 – The Hunt. 2015. The Feminist Jumper. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.thehunt.com/the-hunt/ yAzEQU-this-feminist-jumper%2521 Figure 37- Pinterest. 2018. Whistles Resort 2018 Lookbook. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest. co.uk/pin/565764771932421758/ Figure 38 – Pinterest. 2018. Whistles Resort 2018 Lookbook. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/565764771932420966/ Figure 39 – Vogue. 2018. Whistles Resort 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ resort-2018/whistles#collection Figure 40 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/528539706240299688/ Figure 41 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/98868154301049159/ Figure 42 – Fremson, R. 2017. A sea of pink hats on march participants in Washington on Saturday. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/21/us/womens-march.html Figure 43 – The Sun. 2018. Malala Yousafzai. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/4264525/ malala-yousafzai-pakistani-activist-nobel-prize-winner-oxford-university/
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Figure 44 – Whiteman, W. 2011. Topless driving ban protest rocks Kiev. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http:// waltwhitemansworld.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/topless-driving-ban-protest-rocks-kiev.html Figure 45 – Owusu, K. 2017. Saudi Arabia Finally Lets Women Drive in 2018, Enters 21st Century. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.autotribute.com/46769/saudi-arabia-finallylets-women-drive-in-2018-enters-21st-century/ Figure 46 – Pinterest. No Date. Old Jeddah Houses Saudi Arabia. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/382383824590196926/ Figure 47 – Barends, M. 2017. Getting lost in the souks. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://mokumsurfclub.com/ marrakech-city-guide/ Figure 48 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/369224869434846702/ Figure 49 – Lafforgue, E. 2016. Little girl with henna on the hands for a traditional wedding, Qeshm Island, Salakh, Iran. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mytripsmypics/24303807409/in/album-72157635879362985/ Figure 50 – Charlesfred. No Date. Colourful baskets from Yemen. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://picssr.com/ tags/craftdisease Figure 51 – Vogue. 2018. Whistles Pre Fall 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ pre-fall-2018/whistles Figure 52 –– Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/25755029099719673/ Figure 53 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/478155685410504249/ Figure 54 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/89860955035143508/ Figure 55 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/410460953518590119/
Figure 56 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/515521488572851421/ Figure 57 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/375065475186700516/ Figure 58 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/446841594250779560/ Figure 59 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/695876579897374864/ Figure 60 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/416653403000328236/ Figure 61 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/158611218108423748/ Figure 62 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/390616967654126448/ Figure 63 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/558446422521557496/ Figure 64 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/306033737166573904/ Figure 65 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/515521488572851421/ Figure 66 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/572097958885671464/ Figure 67 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/572097958885671464/ Figure 68 – Pantone. 2018. Find a Colour. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com
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Figure 69 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/506092076853031438/ Figure 70 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/342414377890256669/ Figure 71 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/479492691553613102/ Figure 72 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/Adr1Ohec5K_t96M72FK_IYIg7rHQvV1yjw_yNgvP_cA8uXlx1goQnzY/ Figure 73 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/307370743312220243/ Figure 74 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/433753007843509207/ Figure 75 – Pantone. 2018. Find a Colour. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com Figure 76 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/4714774594263624/ Figure 77 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/780389441650591976/ Figure 78 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/166422148702283827/ Figure 79 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/354447433166313989/ Figure 80 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/204491639309781275/ Figure 81 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/520447300676727800/
Figure 82 – Girl Tweets World. 2016. Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.girltweetsworld.com/tips-for-visiting-sheikh-zayed-grand-mosque-abu-dhabi/ Figure 83 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/558587160014551518/ Figure 84 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/507147608029953218/ Figure 85 – Glory Knitting. 2018. 140GSM 100% Cotton Mercerized Single Jersey. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://gloryknitting.en.made-in-china.com/product/hjYJTVDSbrcB/China-140GSM-100-Cotton-Mercerized-Single-Jersey.html Figure 86 – Closs & Hamblin. 2018. White Cotton Poplin. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.candh.co.uk/haberdashery-c7/dress-making-c45/dress-making-fabrics-c46/white-cotton-poplin-p726 Figure 87 – Stylish Fabric. 2015. Navy Modal Poly Sand Wash Jersey Cupro Knit Fabric. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.stylishfabric.com/navy-modal-poly-sand-wash-jersey-cupro-knit-fabric.html Figure 88 – Higgs & Higgs. No Date. Dotted Swiss Voile - White. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.higgsandhiggs.com/dotted-swiss-voile-white.html Figure 89 – Dress Making Supplies. 2018. Tangerine Polyester Chiffon Fabric. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https:// www.dressmakingsupplies.com/Tangerine_Polyester_Chiffon_Fabric_p/fch05-1y.htm Figure 90 – NY Fashion Center Fabrics. 2018. Lightweight Linen White. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https:// www.nyfashioncenterfabrics.com/products/light-weight-100-linenwhite-fabric Figure 91 – My Fabrics. 2017. Cotton Twill – Grey. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.myfabrics. co.uk/81-2888-054_cotton-twill-grey.html Figure 92 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/433330795381098225/
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Figure 93 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/447897125415204924/ Figure 94 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/127860076896442574/ Figure 95 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/AXubuwqXQmaalzQDaVYUtI6mK06PDeqRO-PM4LLFcafMvv5pgw1QpAU/ Figure 96 – All Design Flats: WGSN. 2018. CADS/Design Flats. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://0-wwwwgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/f4c51a2736fde26b7cb3bc88a52ec81e/ Figure 97 – Vogue. 2018. Whistles Pre-Fall 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ pre-fall-2018/whistles Figure 98 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/417638565430687820/ Patterns Used in Range Plan Yellow and Purple Pattern Figure 99 – Ethnik City. 2018. Ankara Fabric wiith Purple Pattern. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://ethnikcity.com/product.php?item=Ankara-fabric-with-purple-spiral-pattern20170222090826 Green Pattern Figure 100 – Authors Own. White Spot Voile Figure 101- Showtime Fabrics. No Date. Dobby Spot White. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://showtimefabrics. co.uk/Dobby-Spot-White Figure 102 – Whistles. 2018. Whistles Neighbourhood: Central London. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whistles-neighbourhood-central-london.html Figure 103 – Sheppard, J. 2013. The Reclamation of Cool at Whistles. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.mindmag.com/retail/the-reclamation-of-cool-at-whistles/ Figure 104 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/374713631474913268/
Figure 105 – Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/699043173380695109/ Figure 106 – Master, C.G. 2017. Whistles SS17 Brand Day at OXO2. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://oxo2. co.uk/whistles-ss17-brand-day-oxo2-blank-canvas-product-launch/ Figure 107 - Pinterest. No Date. No Title. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/447686019198178470/ Figures 108-110 – Whistles. 2018. Women’s Campaign SS18. [Online]. [Accessed 4th May 2018]. Available from: http://www.whistles.com/ look-book/womens-campaign-ss18.html Figure 111 - Authors Own.
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