Omaha Magazine - June 2022 - The Food Issuu by Omaha Magazine

CHEF TAY WESTBERRY • SMASHING DIAMOND CEILINGS WITH RACHEL BALKOVAC • THE RISE OF THE VIRTUAL KITCHEN • 402 EAT + DRINK

omaha MAGAZINE'S Seventh ANNUAL

M U S T- T R Y

BRUNCH S T OP S

JUNE 2022 | U.S. $5.95

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Nebraska Balloon&

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FROM THE EDITOR // LETTER BY DAISY HUTZELL-RODMAN

BRUNCH, BURRATA, WINE Food Issue Indulges

Richness

everal years ago, while walking around the Old Market, I saw a man in a T-shirt that made fun of brunch. It made me pause. I love brunch, always have. My first memory of eating brunch is as a child. My family and I were dressed up, in Kansas City, at the top of the Hallmark Tower. There was a buffet with an array of muffins, danishes, egg dishes, a salad bar, and cantaloupe. There was also a dish of tiny bead-like things—they were black, and fishy-tasting, and I thought they were disgusting. Caviar at brunch—welcome to the 1980s. These days, brunch is less of a novelty. Avocado toast has (fortunately, in my mind) replaced caviar as the hot item on a lot of menus, and mimosas have replaced the bottles of champagne in ice buckets. While brunch can still be consumed as an elegant breakfast with a slice of fruit, there are less formal options, such as those at Backlot Pizza and Kitchen, where dishes range from Detroit-style pizza to chilaquiles. The main feature this issue brings readers several places to dine mid-morning on a weekend with friends—after all, brunch isn’t a meal, it’s an event. The other feature has to do with ghost kitchens—a term not popular with several of the people who work out of these commercial kitchens made specifically to prep food for delivery-service restaurants. The trend started before 2019, but these kitchens have come into their own over the last two years, along with the rise of delivery-only restaurants. Those who enjoy hopping wineries will appreciate the adventure article about the Nebraska Wine Passport. This concept started in the early 1990s, and as more wineries came into being, the passport program grew. It now has more than 20 wineries and almost 10 tasting rooms. One place my husband and I periodically nosh is 712 Eat + Drink. I love the beet salad, with marinated figs and chunks of goat cheese, while my husband’s go-to at most restaurants is a Reuben. The people behind 712 are also in charge of 402 Eat + Drink, and reviewer Tamsen Butler and her dining partners enjoyed this restaurant as much as Wade and I enjoy 712. Tay Westberry competed on Gordon Ramsay’s MasterChef in season 11. The Omaha DJ and home cook had a positive experience on the TV show and is now working at an Omaha restaurant. How, and why, he got into cooking is the source of one of our A+C articles. Several area restaurants now serve burrata. It’s made from mozzarella and filled with cream. One restaurant around the area I have frequented lately serves it with tapenade; another with Mediterranean salad. Those who have never tried this decadent treat can read about it in our Obviously Omaha section. Welcome to the Food Issue 2022. There’s a lot of great articles in this edition, and I hope you enjoy them all.

*Note: The hotel edition of Omaha Magazine has a different cover and does not include all of the editorial content included in the magazine’s full city edition. For more information on our city edition, visit OmahaMagazine.com.

JUNE

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2022

TAB L E of CON T E N T S THE USUAL SUSPECTS 03

From the Editor Brunch, Burrata, Wine

Between the Lines

Calendar of Events

034 Adventure

The Grape Escape

058 History

Flatiron Building

077 Obviously Omaha Burrata

096 Explore! 103 Instagram 104 Not Funny

Capers, Cilantro, and Crazy

A R T S + C U LT U R E 016 Art

Katrina Swanson

020 Visual

Dave Nelson

024 Author

Michaela Kenkel

026 Music

DJ Tay

040

F E AT U R E S

040 GIVE THEM SOMETHING TO BRUNCH ABOUT 052 SWIPE TO INDULGE Brunches Made With Love, Local Ingredients, and More

The Rise of the Virtual Kitchen

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JUNE 2022

PE O P L E 030 Sports

Rachel Balkovac

036 Profile

Josh Horn

060 Gen O

Taylor Dreessen

GIVING 062 Feature

Franzluebber Family

064 Calendar

read current and previous issues online at omahamagazine.com CHEF TAY WESTBERRY • SMASHING DIAMOND CEILINGS WITH RACHEL BALKOVAC • THE RISE OF THE VIRTUAL KITCHEN • 402 EAT + DRINK

omaha MAGAZINE'S Seventh ANNUAL

JUNE 2022 | U.S. $5.95

A B O U T T HE COV ER Brunch is back, and crepes are an excellent, lighter choice for sunny spring days. These are filled with cream and fun fruits, such as blood orange slices. Cover image styled by Sarah Jane Hunt.

026

60PLUS

070 Profile

Ron Popp

072 Nostalgia

Restaurant Favorites Live On

074 Active Living Jim Trebbien

DINING 078 Feature

Shug’s Comfort Food

082 Profile

John Rea

084 Review

402 Eat + Drink

090 Dining Guide SPECIAL SECTION 050 The Food Issue

SPONSORED BY

JUNE 2022

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OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR

JUNETEENTH EXHIBIT

ASLEEP AT THE WHEEL

CASPIAN

will host a Black-artist focused art exhibition. Admission: free. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday. 402.320.4769 –culxr.house

country band is celebrating their 50th anniversary with a new album, Half A Hundred Years. 8 p.m. Tickets: $65 orchestra/$45 ﬂoor/$35 balcony. 402.342.1300 –scottishriteomaha.org

an atmospheric, primarily instrumental post-rock band. 8 p.m. Tickets: $17 advanced/$20 day of show. 402.345.7569. –theslowdown.com

BEYOND VAN GOGH

PAUL CAUTHEN

Starting June 11 at CulXr House, 3014 N. 24th St. In honor of Juneteenth, CulXr House

June 23-Aug. 14 at Mid-America Center, 1 Arena Way. This limited-run exhibit shows Vin-

cent Van Gogh re-imagined as three-dimensional works. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Ticket prices vary. 712- 323-0536. –vangoghomaha.com

» CONCERTS « SUMMER CONCERT SERIES

What would summer be without music? Omaha has plenty of places for family-friendly musical entertainment to keep people dancing in the street, and the heat. • Saturdays@ Stinson Park, 67th & Center Streets –aksarbenvillage.com • Outdoor Concert & Movie Series, Central Park Lakes, 8305 Park View Blvd. in La Vista –cityoﬂavista.org • Music and Memories at Shadow Lake Towne Center, 7775 Olson Dr. –shadowlaketownecenter.com

PHOEBE BRIDGERS

June 1 at Waiting Room Outdoors, 6212 Maple St. Bridgers is a Los Angeles-based singer/song-

writer with dreamy and hook-filled indie pop. 7 p.m. Tickets: $50. 402.884.5353 –waitingroomlounge.com

PETE FUCINARO TRIO

June 2 at The Jewell, 1030 Capitol Ave. Fucin-

aro is a saxophonist and composer from Omaha, currently based in Kansas City. 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $15. 917.748.4337. –jewellomaha.com

WHEELER WALKER, JR.

June 2 at The Admiral, 2234 S. 13th St. Th is

artist is known for his outlaw country sound. 8 p.m. $30 general admission/$59.50 premiere balcony –admiralomaha.com

BORN RUFFIANS

June 3 at Reverb Lounge, 6121 Military Ave.

Born Ruffians are an indie rock band. 8 p.m. Tickets: $13 advanced/$15 day of show. 402.884.5707. –reverblounge.com

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JUNE 2022

June 3 at Scottish Rite Hall, 202 S. 20th St. This

June 3 at Slowdown, 729 N. 14th St. Cauthen

is unapologetically “Country as F*&k.” His first album, My Gospel, made Rolling Stone's list of Top 40 Country Records in 2016. 8 p.m. Tickets: $35 advanced/$40 day of show. 402.345.7569. –theslowdown.com

THE HEGG BROTHERS

June 4 at The Jewell, 1030 Capitol Ave. This duo

of brothers from South Dakota brings Omahans a night of the music of Steely Dan. 6:30 p.m. Tickets: $20. 917.748.4337. –jewellomaha.com

GO NOW! THE MUSIC OF THE MOODY BLUES

June 4 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. Michael Krajewski, conducts the

Omaha Symphony in a faithful tribute to the classic rock band The Moody Blues.7:30 p.m. Tickets: $20-$89. 402.345.0606. –ticketomaha.com

BLACKWATER HOLYLIGHT

June 5 at Slowdown, 729 N. 14th St. Blackwater

Holylight is an all-girl band from Portland. 8 p.m. Tickets: $12 advanced/$15 day of show. 402.345.7569. –theslowdown.com

ADELITAS WAY

June 5 at Barnato, 225 N. 170th St. Adelitas

Way has often been identified as part of the postgrunge movement. 7 p.m. Tickets: $30 general admission/$125+ tables. 402.964.2021. –barnato.bar

DYLAN DOYLE BAND

June 5 at Reverb Lounge, 6121 Military Ave.

This band has been inﬂuenced by musicians from Bob Dylan to John Prine. 8 p.m. Tickets: $10 402.884.5707 –reverblounge.com

THE WORLD FAMOUS GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA

June 8 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. Th is 18-member orchestra,

along with vocalists, will perform hits such as “In The Mood,” and “A String Of Pearls.” 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $59.50. 402.345.0606. –ticketomaha.com

June 8 at Slowdown, 729 N. 14th St. Caspian is

FAILURE

June 9 at The Waiting Room, 6212 Maple St.

Alt-rock band Failure is known for their grunge sound. 8 p.m. $25 advanced/$30 day of show. 402.884.5353 –waitingroomlounge.com

TURNPIKE TROUBADOURS

June 10 at Westfair Amphitheater, 22984 US-6 Council Bluffs. Turnpike Troubadours are known

for the single “Down Here.” 6 p.m. $59.50 general admission/$99.50 VIP. 712.322.3400 –westfairevents.com

KAMERON MARLOWE

June 10 at Barnato, 225 N. 170th St. Marlowe

made it to the top 24 on The Voice before being known for hits such as “Sober as a Drunk.” 8 p.m. Tickets: $25 general admission/$400 tables. 402.964.2021. –barnato.bar

JOHNNY BURGIN

June 10 at The Jewell, 1030 Capitol Ave. Burgin

learned blues music from Chicago’s Tail Dragger. 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. shows. Tickets: $15, includes both shows. 917.748.4337. —jewellomaha.com

THE RT'S

June 10 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. Formerly The Rad Trads, this

group is known for their eclectic sound. 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $15. 402.345.0606. –ticketomaha.com

WHISKEY MYERS

June 11 at Westfair Amphitheater, 22984 US-6 Council Bluffs. Whiskey Myers have been as

inﬂuenced by rock 'n' roll and country music. 5:30 p.m. $59.50 general/$99 VIP 712.322.3400 –westfairevents.com

CHRIS YOUNG

June 11 at Stir Concert Cove, 1 Harrah’s Blvd.

This multi-platinum artist has amassed nearly 5 billion career streams and 12 No. 1 hits. Tickets: TBD. 712-329-6000. –ticketmaster.com

ASKING ALEXANDRIA

June 11 at The Admiral, 2234 S. 13th St. The

English metalcore band Asking Alexandria is known for their single “Alone in a Room.” 7 p.m. Tickets: $39.50 general advanced/$45 general day of show/$75 premiere balcony –admiralomaha.com

OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR

TECH N9NE

June 13 at The Admiral, 2234 S. 13th St. TechN9ne's 2021 album ASIN9NE, nota-

bly featured the rap debut of Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson. 8 p.m. $35 advanced/$40 day of show/$60 premiere balcony –admiralomaha.com

SHAUN CASSIDY

June 14 at Barnato, 225 N. 170th St. This former

teen heartthrob is known for hits such as "Da Doo Ron Ron" and "Hey Deanie.” 8 p.m. Tickets: $85. 402.964.2021. –barnato.bar

CHVRCHES

June 15 at The Admiral, 2234 S. 13th St. The

notable Scottish synth-pop group from Glasgow is known for the song “Screen Violence.” 8 p.m. $35 general/$70 premier balcony –admiralomaha.com

LIL XAN – THE BORN DEAD TOUR

June 16 at The Waiting Room, 6212 Maple St. American rapper, singer and songwriter Lil Xan

is best known for his song "Betrayed." 7 p.m. $22 advanced/$25 day of show. 402.884.5353. –waitingroomlounge.com

ROGER CLYNE & THE PEACEMAKERS

Nebraska: Flatwater – Video Installation

April 29 – July 3, 2022

This exhibition explores the beauty of the Nebraskan landscape throughout the four seasons. A series of projectors around the gallery will surround you with the changing landscape, with scenes including blossoming spring flowers, autumn wheat fields, roaming bison, and more. Gallery 1516 is open by appointment. To learn more about this exhibition, visit gallery1516.org 1516 Leavenworth Street, Omaha NE, 68102 call 531-375-6643

June 17 at The Waiting Room, 6212 Maple St. Th is band’s sound is a blend of punk rock,

country-western, and mariachi. 8 p.m. $25 advanced/$28 day of show. 402.884.5353. –waitingroomlounge.com

AMERICA

June 18 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. This iconic group harmonized

their way to the top of the charts with their signature song “A Horse With No Name.” 7 p.m. Tickets: $39-$79. 402.345.0606. –ticketomaha.com

MAN MAN WITH PINK $OCK

June 22 at The Waiting Room, 6212 Maple St.

Man Man is a multiinstrumental experimental rock band. 8 p.m. $16. 402.884.5353 –waitingroomlounge.com

NEKO CASE WITH BENDIGO FLETCHER

June 23 at The Admiral, 2234 S. 13th St. 8 p.m. The notable David Byrne himself said he

is drawn to music by this member of New Pornographers. $36 advanced/$41 day of sale/$66 premier balcony. –admiralomaha.com

BONE, THUGS, ’N’ HARMONY

June 24 at Barnato, 225 N. 170th St. This rap

group is most known for their song "Tha Crossroads." 8 p.m. Tickets: $100 general admission, $750 tables. 402.964.2021. –barnato.bar

Five venues, five unique celebration experiences. Hosting events for 100 - 1,000 guests, Omaha Event Group boasts 15 years of experience with over 300 events each year, including Omaha Fashion Week. Schedule a consultation with our team of experts today. hello@omahaeventgroup.com | 402.819.8792 | omahaeventgroup.com Omaha Design Center | The Downtown Club | Empire Room | Omaha Palazzo | Anderson O'Brien Fine Art Gallery

JUNE 2022

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OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR

RETAIL STORE NOW OPEN

BARNAKED LADIES WITH GIN BLOSSOMS AND TOAD THE WET SPROCKET

We offer product viewing, purchase, and curbside pick up.

June 24 at Stir Concert Cove, 1 Harrah’s Blvd.

Three bands from the 1990s will perform their hits such as “One Week,” “Hey Jealousy,” “All I Want.” 7 p.m. Tickets: $45-$153, VIP $205. 712-329-6000. –ticketmaster.com

We will also ship to you!

THE DRIFTERS, CORNELL GUNTER’S COASTERS AND THE PLATTERS

June 24 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. This concert is sure to include

favorites such as "Under The Boardwalk," "Stand By Me," "On Broadway," and more. 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $39.50-$69.50. 402.345.0606. –ticketomaha.com

FITZ AND THE TANTRUMS

THE “TIFFANY’S” OF RECLAIMED HOME IMPROVEMENT PRODUCTS

June 25 at Stir Concert Cove, 1 Harrah’s Blvd.

WE FEATURE MODERN & TRADITIONAL:

This band's new album features singles “123456” and “I Just Wanna Shine.” 8 p.m. Tickets: $35$105. 712-329-6000. –ticketmaster.com

High Quality Reclaimed Furniture Custom Doors • Interior & Exterior Design Lighting • Unique Character Pieces for Home or Business All items Curated

MOTHERFOLK WITH DURRY

June 26 at Reverb Lounge, 6121 Military Ave.

Motherfolk has been described as having Avett Brothers-esque folk rock. 8 p.m. $15 advanced/$18 day of show. 402.884.5707 –reverblounge.com

THE FIXX

June 28 at The Waiting Room, 6212 Maple St.

English rock band The Fixx has held a 40+-year career. 8 p.m. $32 advanced/$35 day of show. 402.884.5353. –waitingroomlounge.com

THIRD EYE BLIND

June 29 at Stir Concert Cove, 1 Harrah’s Blvd.

Th is 1990s band is most known for “SemiCharmed Life." 8 p.m. Tickets: $42-$168, $203 VIP. 712-329-6000. –ticketmaster.com

TRAVIS DENNING

June 30 at Barnato, 225 N. 170th St. Th is sing-

er-songwriter and guitarist reached No. 1 on the Country Airplay chart for the song “After a Few.” 8 p.m. Tickets: $35 general admission, $150+ tables. 402.964.2021. –barnato.bar

» PERFORMANCES « BUFFALO WOMEN

Through June 19 at Bluebarn Theatre, 1106 S. 10th St. The first Juneteenth. New lives and new

freedoms. True grit and good trouble. This show is a tale of hidden figures leading extraordinary lives on the frontier in 1865. 402.345.1576. –bluebarn.org

Shop with us online at www.ootbreclaimed.com 7401 Main St., Suite 300, Ralston | 303-669-9808

KINKY BOOTS

Through June 26 at Omaha Community Playhouse, 6915 Cass St. Charlie Price has taken

over the family’s failing shoe factory. Inspiration strikes when he meets Lola, a drag queen in need of a sturdy pair of exotic boots. Tickets: $25-$45. 402.553.0800. –omahaplayhouse.com

ANASTASIA

June 7-12 at Orpheum Theater, 409 S. 16th St. Pursued by a Soviet officer determined to

silence her, Anya enlists the aid of a conman and an ex-aristocrat. Tickets: $35-$99. 402.345.6006. –ticketomaha.com

THE SOUND OF MUSIC

June 3-19 at The Rose Theater, 2001 Farnam St.

Maria is dispatched from the convent to serve as governess to the seven children of the Von Trapp family, and helps them unite. Tickets: $27-$32. 402.345.4849. –rosetheater.org

RESPECT

June 10-26 at Omaha Community Playhouse, 6915 Cass St. This show celebrates the divas who

dominated the music scene for decades with songs from Aretha Franklin, Carole King and more. Times vary. Tickets: $35. 402.553.0800. –omahaplayhouse.com

JUNE 2022

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OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR

BETRAYAL

25TH ANNUAL TASTE OF OMAHA

between Robert, his longtime best friend, Jerry, and Robert's wife, Emma. 402.502.4910 –bsbtheatre.com

over 50 restaurants in the area, live entertainment and activities. Admission: Free. 11a.m.-11p.m. Friday-Saturday, and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. 402.346.8003. –showofficeonline.com/TasteHome/

June 10-26 at Brigit St. Brigit Theatre, 421 S. 36th St. This play tells the tale of a love triangle

RIVERDANCE

June 15 at Orpheum Theater, 409 S. 16th St.

Winner of a Grammy Award for Best Musical Show Album, this celebration of Irish and international dance has been completely reimagined. Tickets: $43-$88. 402.345.6006. –ticketomaha.com

SHAKESPEARE ON THE GREEN: THE TEMPEST

June 23-26 at Elmwood Park, 802 S. 60th St.

In this comedy, Prospero was Duke of Milan 12 years ago, but he withdrew more and more into his studies, leaving the management of his state to his brother Antonio. Tickets: free. 531.466.3122. –nebraskashakespeare.com

SEBASTIAN MANISCALCO

June 25 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. This comedian has produced

a Netﬂix original special called "Stay Hungry" and held a starring role in Martin Scorsese’s Oscar-nominated The Irishman. 402.345.6006. –ticketomaha.com

SHAKESPEARE ON THE GREEN: OTHELLO

June 30 at Elmwood Park, 802 S. 60th St. In

this tragedy, Othello is a Moorish general in the service of Venice. Tickets: free. 531.466.3122. –nebraskashakespeare.com

» FAMILY & MORE « FARMERS MARKETS

Farmers Markets are open. Here are the times and dates for the local markets. Attendees are encouraged to check with organizers for availability before attending any market. • Council Bluffs (Bayliss Park) 4:30-7:30 p.m. Thursdays. • Old Market (11th and Jackson streets) 8 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Saturdays. • Village Pointe (168th and Dodge streets) 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Saturdays. • Baxter Arena (67th and Center streets) 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Sundays. • Papillion (84th and Lincoln streets) 5-8 p.m. Wednesdays starting May 29. • Florence Mill (9102 N. 30th St.) 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. • Gifford Park (33rd and California streets) 5-8 p.m. Fridays starting June 7.

June 3-5 at 6232 Pacific St. This event showcases

TODD ’N’ TYLER’S BIG DEAL

June 4 at SumTur Amphitheater, 11691 S. 108th St. This show includes local comics, live music,

and zoom calls with Lewis Black and Frank Caliendo. Tickets: $20+. 402.597.2041. –papillion.org

BENSON BEER FEST

June 4 along Maple Street and Military Avenue.

This festival will be filled with hundreds of new and favorite local and regional pours from the best breweries serving Nebraska. 3-7 p.m. Tickets: $50 early entry (1:30 p.m.) $40 regular entry (3 p.m.).

COUNTRYSIDE VILLAGE ARTS FAIR

June 4-5 at Countryside Village Shopping Center, 8722 Countryside Plaza. The annual

arts fair showcases a mix of styles, perceptions, and media. Admission: free. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday. 402.391.2200. –countryside.village.com

BELLEVUE ROCKS

June 9-11 at American Heroes Park

This annual event includes music, a carnival, food, a beer garden, and fireworks on Saturday night. Saturday night includes headliner Sawyer Brown. Admission: free. –bellevuerockstheriverfront.com

ELKHORN DAYS

June 9-12 throughout Elkhorn. Th is festival

includes family-friendly entertainment from a cornhole tournament to a parade to a car show Times vary. Admission: free. 402.289.9560. –elkhorndays.com

OMAHA FREEDOM FESTIVAL

June 18 at Malcolm X Birthsite, 3448 Evans St. This family-friendly festival and carnival will

provide cultural and historical celebrations, entertainment, and educational resources. Admission: Free to daytime festivities, $45 for general concert seating and $90 VIP. Noon-Midnight. Concert starts at 7 p.m. 402.686.8316. –omahafreedomfestival.com

BLACKSTONE BBQ BATTLE

June 18-19 at Blackstone District, 3920 Farnam St. Friday night includes beer, bands, free entry,

and barbecue teams getting ready. The main action includes samples, live music, and more. Admission:$10. Friday 4-9 p.m. and Saturday 12-6 p.m. –bbqblackstone.com

COLLEGE WORLD SERIES OPENING DAY

June 16 at Charles Schwab Field, 1200 Mike Fahey St. Opening day includes a full slate of

events such as Fan Fest, team autograph sessions, practices, Olympic-style opening ceremonies, a concert, and a fireworks finale. 9:10 a.m-10 p.m. Admission: free. 402-554-4422. –cwsomaha.com

TASTE OF NORTH OMAHA

June 17-18 at Eagles Nest Worship Center, 5775

Sorensen Parkway North Omaha food entrepreneurs (and others) will gather at this venue to give attendees a taste of the many businesses North Omaha has to offer. Admission: Free. –tasteofnorthomaha.com

2021 NCAA MEN’S COLLEGE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

June 17-27 at Charles Schwab Field, 1200 Mike Fahey St. Omaha’s annual baseball festival is

back, and culminates with the best-of-three finals starting Saturday, June 25. Ticket prices vary. 402.554.4404. –cwsomaha.com

OMAHA SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL

June 10-12 at Aksarben Village. The Summer

Arts Festival showcases 135 visual artists, a stage lineup of music performances, children’s area, and more. Admission: Free. 402.345.5401. –summerarts.org

75TH PAPILLION DAYS

June 16-19 , locations vary. The celebration will feature the carnival, parade, Market in the Park, fireworks, live entertainment, and more. Admission: free. 402-331-3917. –papilliondays.org

Event times and details are correct as of presstime, but are subject to change. Omaha Magazine encourages readers to visit venues' websites and/or calling ahead before attending an event or visiting a museum.

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JUNE 2022

OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR

JUNE 2022

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A+C ART

fter sitting down at a cafe, Katrina Swanson pulls out her phone to briefly check on something and shows off her phone cover, which is embellished with vintage candy. “It brings back this memory of when you were a child and thought everything was great,” Swanson cheerfully said about her compositions. Tootsie Rolls, Pez, Dots, Big League Chew, and Smarties are a few of the sweets depicted in her paintings. Painting candy is fairly new for the artist. She remembers creating floral watercolors before portraying candy. “Some of it was about my grandma with flowers and what we used to do together, like gardening and talking about flowers,” she said. Swanson briefly studied commercial arts at Metropolitan Community College, learning standard techniques for drawing and printmaking, but settled on painting. Though, her passion for art started in her childhood, something she said she was always confident in. The overarching theme in all her work is American nostalgia and beauty done in exacting detail, whether it be something edible or a sign. Laurel Thiel, gallery director of Anderson O’Brien Fine Art who represents the artist, said, “Katrina's paintings are so precise that we can feel and hear the crinkle of the wrappers, and we want to dig into those piles and pull out our favorites.” The painting process is time consuming, but also a labor of love for Swanson. Like many hyperrealistic artists, she works directly from a photo. Her process involves piling vintage candy in a mound, and taking up to 300 photos to get the perfect layout to paint. The composition has to be to her liking before she begins painting.

Wrappers with bright colors and fonts make her candy paintings alluring. During her process, she takes great care to only paint these tempting surfaces while avoiding barcodes.

Art aficionados would connect this style to the artist Richard Estes, a hyperrealist particularly known for his paintings of New York City made in the 1960s and 1970s that, to modern viewers, look vintage.

This kind of work takes hours. While she works, Swanson listens to podcasts and music to fill in the time.

Swanson is unashamed to say Estes is a major inspiration in her own work, and viewers can see that connection. She acknowledges the differences between the country’s biggest city and Omaha. “Omaha is a different feel, but if I had a subway to paint, I probably would,” she said.

Other paintings touch on iconic signage that only exists in Omaha, including restaurant signs such as Bronco’s Hamburgers’ Cowboy and La Casa’s squat man playing a guitar on Leavenworth Street. “Katrina's paintings of vintage neon signs are snapshots of time and place,” Thiel said. “Even though many of the restaurants are gone, the memories of meals eaten there remain. For many of us, the paintings remind us of our childhood and special occasions with family.” Swanson’s technical abilities shine through when she paints people walking and eating in restaurants in the Old Market. Restaurants like Le Bouillon and La Buvette are among locations she has painted with people engrossed in their own worlds.

Overall, her paintings speak to idyllic childhood, even though perception of things being perfect in the past could be a little shortsighted. They also show what distinguishes Omaha’s cultural values and icons from other cities by showing its most popular restaurants. That all being said, who doesn’t want to bite down on their favorite childhood candy or enjoy going to their favorite burger place? Learn more about Katrina Swanson by visiting her website: katrinamethotswanson.com, and following her on social media (Instagram: @katrinaswanson).

Like her paintings of candy, they strike a sense of nostalgia for the artist, who said, “When you were young, you’d just wander around because you didn’t have any money.” Other paintings capture touristy locations such as the Old Market Passageway, a place full of restaurants, shops, and galleries. Visitors are welcome to look and walk around as much as they are encouraged to shop. Her paintings don’t look exactly like a photograph, but have a vintage aura to them. They look like photos taken in the 1960s and give off a yearning for the past.

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From left: Alison Hult, Dave Nelson, Miki Newhouse

// A+C VISUAL \\ STORY BY JULIUS FREDRICK | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN | DESIGN BY DEREK JOY

SECRET PENGUIN’S DAVE NELSON e h t g n Masteri e c n a l a B Art of After 18 years on the Greater Omaha Chamber business registry, the listing ‘SecretPenguin’ has become something of a misnomer. Buzz around the branding collective has grown too conspicuous to be considered covert, and the agency’s talent is catching tailwind—and big-time commission— coast-to-coast, their pace far from glacial. Every alias, however, has a story, and in the case of SecretPenguin mastermind Dave Nelson, sometimes a name just sticks. “I used to hide ‘secret penguins’ in my artwork when I was bored drawing still lifes in high school,” Nelson said. “When I started traveling more for skateboarding, I had stickers made so I could hide them wherever I went. I started throwing them out to crowds, and my email was on the back, and pretty soon I was getting messages from all over the world…” >>>

JUNE 2022

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// A+C VISUAL \\

f life is a record, setting the needle to Nelson’s reveals skateboarding and graphic design to be two sides of a cherished LP, one he can’t help but move to. However, synching the harmony Nelson enjoys today wasn’t without its wobbles, scratches, and feedback loops. Balance had to be learned, and more importantly, practiced—on the grind rail, on the drafting table, and on the tour bus. “I remember, my college professor told me I needed to choose between skateboarding or art, but then I left school and did art on the road,” Nelson recalled, the memory coaxing a grin. “I didn’t see a movie for eight years, I only skateboarded and…designed.” While Nelson isn’t scoring any points in the cinema category come trivia night, the countless hours spent honing his craft have turned SecretPenguin from a web-based, indie operation into a nationwide branding blockbuster, with numerous restaurants filling the queue. “About 40% of our clients are dining related,” Nelson said. “If you include developments that include dining, it may be closer to 60%.” These figures led Nelson to introduce Undivided in 2016, a restaurant-focused division of SecretPenguin that promises to “create, refine, and manage restaurants brands,” per the company slogan. “The logo represents how there are different divisions in a restaurant, and how we help them to become aligned; to become undivided.” Omaha staples like Jams, Via Farina, and Westroad Mall’s Flagship Commons get Nelson’s undivided marketing attention alongside cross-country projects such as Williamsburg Pizza in Brooklyn, N.Y., and “cutting-edge food-hall and ghost kitchen” Le Fantome in Washington, D.C. “It’s fun coming up with unique ideas so that people walk away wanting to tell others about their experience,” Nelson said. “Often, people visiting restaurants are paying for more than the meal alone— they’re paying for an experience—and we consider all the angles of how to make it a positive, memorable one.”

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“Often, people visiting restaurants are paying for more than the meal alone—they’re paying for an experience—and we consider all the angles of how to make it a positive, memorable one.” -Dave Nelson A key hire towards refining SecretPenguin’s experiential approach to branding was Ali Hult, her client-side perspective a blast of steam for an owner looking to iron out creative wrinkles between brands and their agencies. “I was previously a marketing director, so I was used to being on the client side,” Hult said. “I hired SecretPenguin and several other agencies…and when I would worked with the SecretPenguin team, the results were remarkable.” While her decade-long tenure at SecretPenguin provides ample adulation, one concept in particular breaks the surface of Hult’s otherwise placid demeanor. The concept? Top secret. Classified. Or at least heavily redacted—for now. “The Iceberg Build comes from our realization that many people can create something beautiful, or visually intriguing, but unless it’s strategic it only goes so far,” Hult said. “The brand identity, that’s just the tip of the iceberg…it’s everything underneath; the culture, the experience.” “For example, we worked with Plank in the Old Market, their attributes being: high end, approachable, and utilitarian,” Hult continued, “but even looking at their ﬂatware, when you sit down it’s weighted to be heavier, it’s got a high-end feel, but it’s also utilitarian, no doilies or embellishments, and then it’s approachable—no fancy metals, just stainless steel. It’s exactly what you need.”

Nelson is reserved in sharing the finer details of his build, though he touts a 99% success rate over 200 clients nationwide, and the intellectual scrutiny of Creighton University psychologist Dr. Joshua Fairchild—in the midst of a study on SecretPenguin’s winning process. Another benefactor of The Iceberg Build is hot-off-the-skillet restaurateur and Noddle Co. heir apparent, Sam Noddle. His Aksarben cafe and cocktail bar, Sonny’s | Zone_6, has all the hallmarks of Nelson’s experiential approach to branding, serving small bites and craft cocktails from a converted Airstream camper, replete with greenhouse seating. The two put their creative minds to work, with Noddle’s inﬂuences from hip, wellness-oriented Coconut Grove in Miami— plus some inspired scribbling from Sam’s dad, Jay—combining with Nelson’s exacting eye for design. “It’s two weeks before we open and I don’t have a logo. My dad has this really ugly cursive handwriting,” Noddle jibed. “I call my dad up, and say, ‘Hey I need you to write out Sonny’s as much as you can.’” Noddle sent over the drafts, and in less than an hour Nelson produced an image of a perpetually rising sun, a subtle yet inspired nod to the scrawl’s familial origins. Noddle beamed at the recollection: “Working with Dave was like taking a graduate course in marketing,” Noddle said. “He’s just a great guy…he’s showing me how to get to where I want to be.”

“I hired SecretPenguin and several other agencies…and when I would work with the SecretPenguin team, the results were remarkable.” -Ali Hult

It took me years to figure out the exact recipe for this cake, an that cake brings back so many memories for people. "

Michaela Kenkel

A+C Author

M I C H A E L A K E N K E L ' S D I N I N G T A B L E E X P A N D S O N L I N E

Taking Her Family Affairs, & Recipes, to Heart Those who talk to Michaela Kenkel, the mind behind An Affair from the Heart food blog, will soon find themselves in a conversation about family. “Everything that is on my blog we eat,” Kenkel said. When she started blogging in 2011, Kenkel had four kids at home and six to eight people at every meal. Kenkel’s main focus was staying home with her children. “I’ve always had a side hustle,” Kenkel said. “Everything I’ve ever done had a creative outlet and cooking is definitely creative.” An Affair from the Heart also started as a side project, born from her work as a party-planner for family and friends. Guests would ask for dip and dessert recipes after events, and she started posting them online. “I was pretty new in the game when food blogging started,” Kenkel said. “Now it is saturated.” Blogspot was then all the rage, and followers got every post in their timeline. Today, the landscape is competitive and social media is fragmented, while algorithms control what gets onto timelines. “As the kids got older and were away more it just morphed into a full-time gig,” Kenkel said. During this time, Kenkel moved her blog to Wordpress and diversified her social media. About four years into An Affair from the Heart, she started working with brands and the blog became a full-time career. It attracts 925,000 average monthly views, has 216,000 Facebook followers, and pages on Pinterest, Instagram, and Twitter. “She is one of my favorite entrepreneurs,” said Janell Anderson Ehrke, CEO of Grow Nebraska. “You’d think she’s in Chicago or downtown New York. She has got it going on right here in Nebraska.”

Kenkel works with Nebraska companies and national household brands, including Dunkin Donuts, General Mills, Horizon Organic, and Bob’s Redmill. Her first partnership with Frank’s Kraut evolved organically from Kenkel sharing the recipe for Polish sausage and sauerkraut from her grandmother, traditionally served to their family at Easter. Katie Peterson, marketing manager for Frank’s Kraut, reached out to Kenkel asking to share the post. “The feedback we get from our community is amazing,” Peterson said. “I know what she makes hits home for a lot of people.” Whether working with large companies or helping Nebraska products get exposure, Kenkel works with brands she “uses in her own kitchen.” Her most popular recipes often come from her family, such as her grandmother’s hamburger soup featured on the Today Show website. As with Frank’s, the morning staple reached out to Kenkel. In the past she has worked with booking agents, and over time, developed relationships to work with brands directly. Regardless of a project’s origin, Kenkel is proud to develop and eat with her family all the recipes on the blog, sponsored or unsponsored posts. For example, Kenkel painstakingly recreated the beloved Chocolate Macaroon Bundt Cake Mix from Pillsbury after it was discontinued. “It was my husband’s birthday cake growing up,” Kenkel said. “It took me years to figure out the exact recipe for this cake, and that cake brings back so many memories for people.”

Kenkel developed all the recipes and does her own food photography and posts. She has virtual assistants to help re-shoot older posts or share-out to specific groups. She makes sure to touch everything associated with the blog. “I couldn’t do it all by myself and do it well,” Kenkel said. “I found good people.” Now cooking for an empty nest, her children all college-age or older, Kenkel is starting a series of recipes for two. She also sends extra food to work with her husband, Brian. “My husband and I, we were very much about the family table,” Michaela said. “Not to say my kids weren’t busy, but nine times out of 10 we sat here and ate dinner, even if someone had to rush out the door.” When the Kenkels built their home, Michaela included a generous kitchen and dining room. Windows give the area great light and its renovation in 2020 updated the look and added a cocktail space. Kenkel learned culinary interior design from growing up in a cooking family. Her grandparents would seat the entire family at a winding table that stretched from the back porch to the dining room. Her own dining room table is still where she shoots most of her dishes for An Affair from the Heart. “No matter what, everyone gathers in the kitchen,” Kenkel said. Visit anaff airfromtheheart.com for more information.

While her grandparents had signature recipes, whether it was Polish sausage for Easter or oyster stew for Christmas, An Affair from the Heart has a wide berth. “I don’t know what recipe I’ll be known for because I have 11,00 recipes,” Kenkel said. “If you can’t come to [An Affair from the Heart] and find something to eat, you must not be hungry.”

story by Hannah Amrollahi • photography by Bill Sitzmann • design by Derek Joy JUNE 2022

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TAY BE COME

AM ASTER

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PHY BY BILL SIT ZM A

SIG / DE / N

A+C MUSIC //

West is

B e s e th t

// A+ C MUSIC //

ay Westberry is a man of charm, energy, and talent with a capital Tay. His main claim to fame: becoming a top 10 chef on MasterChef season 11. Tay did not win the competition, but he won over curmudgeonly chef and show host Gordon Ramsay. Ramsay said on the air he felt bad seeing Tay go and offered him a chance to work in one of his restaurants for a week. Tay was a fan favorite who won a bakeoff judged by celebrity chef Sherry Yard with a restaurant-worthy pineapple upside-down cake using canned pineapple against the warnings of Ramsay and Yard. Westberry triumphed in that round, but was unfortunately disqualified in episode eight when he forgot his uni butter—a delicacy made from sea urchins—in a five-ingredient challenge.

While known as "Mr. West" behind the turntables, he is "Chef West" behind the grill and in the halcyon days pre-pandemic, he would light it up on the side or at after parties. "We used to throw ridiculous barbecues where I'd make brisket, pulled pork, and jerk chicken," Tay said. "That was a time to experiment and find out what people like. I didn't know what it was leading to, I was just having fun cooking." Tay pointed to his father, Jimmie Lee Westberry, as his primary influence. "My mom fed us to keep us from going hungry, but my dad fed us so that we enjoyed food," said Tay, who recalls how, in lieu of oatmeal one day, his father made Chilaquiles, a Mexican breakfast of fried corn tortilla pieces cooked in salsa, sprinkled with cheese and served with eggs. "He cooked with different spices and took his time. I really got to experiment at a young age with taking food and having fun with it."

"I couldn't DJ any more and I wanted to switch gears into food," Tay said. "That was my break. It gave me a chance to make my transition." After auditioning locally, Tay's star was launched on MasterChef. When filming ended and before his season aired, Tay started "Not Just Omaha Eats" on Instagram. He tries different local eateries with friends, eating and filming in one of Omaha's most entertaining locations: his car. While competing on MasterChef, Tay caught the attention of folks across the nation, but also in Omaha. Joel Hassanali, corporate executive chef at Best Bison restaurant, said he was watching the show's second episode when he was first impressed with Chef Westberry. "I saw 'Tay from Omaha' on week two of MasterChef when he won the pastry challenge with Chef Sherry Yard," said Hassanali, who worked under Yard for four years at City Perch in Bethesda, Maryland, and in Fort Lee, New Jersey. "I saw something in him on the show, a unique passion that reminded me a lot of myself. And I knew there was so much more that I could teach him and collaborate on some things together."

"WE USED TO THROW RIDICULOUS BARBECUES WHERE I'D MAKE

BRISKE T, PULLED PORK, AND JERK CHICKEN. THAT WAS A TIME TO E X PERIMENT AND FIND OUT WHAT PEOPLE LIKE. I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT WAS LE ADING TO, I WAS JUST HAVING FUN COOKING."

y r r e b t s e Tay W

Before MasterChef, Westberry was already known throughout Omaha. Notable as a local radio and event DJ, Westberry rocks the mic at 106.9 FM The Power Wednesday through Friday from 5 to 6 p.m. with DJ Alyssa Siebken. Tay started on the night shift in 2013 and catapulted to local radio popularity, doing The Blackout with Ivan Alvarez from 7 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday. In 2018 he became the station’s morning DJ. Tay would also sometimes DJ at events until 2 a.m. "I'd have to be up at the radio station by 4 a.m., so sometimes I'd just sleep there." // 28 //

JUNE 2022

Jimmie Lee remembers introducing Tay to unique ﬂavors while making French toast one Sunday. "I decided to make them African, doing a couple things a little different, modify a batter, give it a name and have fun with it," Jimmie Lee said. "Tay's eyes just lit up, and he was hooked from there. He learned that one of the great ways to make people feel special is through cooking. It's a great way to entertain, and it's a great way to communicate our appreciation for people." The pandemic shook up everyday life enough for Tay to give his first love a try.

After connecting through Instagram, the two met, and Tay officially became Chef West. Westberry is now lead prep cook at Best Bison, 163 N. 78th St. Omahans can expect great things from him in the future. Find Chef West on multiple platforms, from Instagram to YouTube, by searching "Not Just Omaha Eats."

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T G N I H S A C M D S N O

SPORTS

STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY Joe Mixan DESIGN Matt Wieczorek

M A I D

d r a H s k r o W d n a ig B s m a e r D c a v ko l a B el h c a R

n Jan. 11, 2022, the New York Yankees announced Rachel Balkovac as the new manager of the Tampa Tarpons, the Yankees’ Low-A team.

The hire of a low-level minor league baseball coach usually doesn’t create much stir, but Balkovac is the first female to manage an affiliate of a professional baseball team— and that team is the famed New York Yankees. Almost 120 reporters signed on to listen to the announcement, made via Zoom, and to hear Balkovac talk about her historic opportunity; she’s been making the headlines and airwaves ever since. This season in pro baseball there are 11 women in uniform for various teams, which is encouraging to Balkovac. “I do think we’ve made progress in the numbers, obviously, but also just the way people react to me and the way that they talk to me. It’s becoming more normal and it’s just exciting to see how much progress we’ve made. We definitely have a lot more room to grow. But it’s really exciting.” In late March, her parents, Jim and Bonnie Balkovac of Omaha, had the chance to watch their daughter perform as manager at Yankees Spring Training Complex in Tampa, Florida, for the first time. As they watched her throughout the preseason // 30 //

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practices and saw how she interacted with the young players and other coaches, her dad said he felt “proud and in awe” of what he was witnessing from the stands. “As a lifelong Yankees fan, all I could do was shake my head and say wow,” Jim said.

As Balkovac showed them around and introduced them to several people within the Yankees organization, Jim heard firsthand how well-respected she is. “From the guard at the gate to those at the highest level of the team, they all told me they see something special in Rachel and they totally accept and respect her.” Jasa Talarico, whose husband, Matt, is an assistant Yankees coach, has two young daughters that she’s glad have a chance to be around Balkovac. “My girls love watching Rachel coach. When I ask them what they want to be when they grow up, they often say ‘a baseball coach!’ I want them to dream big and work hard to reach their goals. Rachel is a perfect example of those things. Young girls are lucky to have a role model like her.” Dream big and work hard. These two attributes pretty much define the character of Balkovac from the beginning of her sports playing career. Jim recalled helping coach his daughter’s softball team. They were without a catcher, and it seemed none of the girls wanted the hot, dirty job. “Rachel stepped forward and said, ‘I’ll do it,’ grabbing the face mask and chest protector.” Jim

admitted he thought Rachel being a catcher may be a short-lived stint, but she proved him wrong by sticking with it through little league, high school, and college. As she grew and matured as a catcher, she practically became a coach on the field, barking orders and demanding total effort from her teammates. Skutt Catholic Head Coach Keith Englekamp said, “Rachel was always a great leader that was demanding on herself and on all the players on the team.”

After graduating high school from Omaha Skutt in 2005, Balkovac took her softball skills to Creighton University. Things didn’t go as well as expected her freshman year, when she developed arm trouble and could barely throw the ball back to the pitcher. With her identity as a rocket-armed catcher no longer there, things spiraled downward and she found herself full of anxiety that her big dream of becoming a professional softball player was fading fast. But then she discovered a new love, a new way she could help her teammates. The weight room became her refuge, her way to lead others by example, knowing that strength and conditioning would make players better. After that freshman-year struggle, Balkovac transferred to the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque, where she finished out her playing days but never quite recovered the promising skills. She graduated in 2009 with a bachelor’s degree in exercise science. She then enrolled at Louisiana State University and earned a master’s degree in kinesiology while working with female and male LSU athletes in strength and conditioning. Balkovac never was a big baseball fan, preferring the faster pace of softball

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G N I IL

On April 8, 2022, Balkovac made history by taking the field as the first woman to manage a professional baseball team. The jersey, pants, and hat she wore in that historic game were packed up and shipped to the Baseball Hall Of Fame in Cooperstown, New York. YET SHE IS NOT FINISHED.

SPORTS

ith her academic success and plenty of work experience, Balkovac could have easily found a job in the field of women’s sports. After dating a minor league baseball player, Balkovac became more interested in the game and the multiple levels involved. She spent the next seven years in professional baseball as a strength and conditioning coach in various roles with the St. Louis Cardinals, Chicago White Sox, and Houston Astros. During her two years in Houston, she met Dillon Lawson, who became her good friend and mentor.

Lawson was the minor league hitting coach for the Yankees and he inspired her to grow further in her baseball knowledge, especially the art of hitting a baseball. This search led her to the Netherlands, where she earned a second master’s degree, this time in biomechanics, at Vrije University in Amsterdam. Her research area was in eye tracking for hitters at the Driveline Baseball Training Facility in Kent, Washington. In 2019, the Yankees came calling and hired Balkovac as a minor league hitting coach. She impressed the organization higher-ups during her two years there with her hitting expertise and her ability to lead, especially in coaching many of the young Latin American players and other top prospects. That January day this year when Balkovac broke through the diamond ceiling, a statement was released from the top executive, Commissioner Rob Manfred. “On behalf of Major League Baseball, I congratulate Rachel on this historic milestone…As manager of the Tampa Tarpons, she will continue to demonstrate her expertise and leadership in the Yankees’ organization. We wish Rachel well in this new capacity and appreciate her mentorship to the growing network of women in baseball operations and player development roles.” On April 8, 2022, Balkovac again made history by taking the field as the first woman to manage a professional baseball team. The jersey, pants, and hat she wore in that historic game were packed up and shipped to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, New York. Yet she is not finished. “I think she’s off to a good start. She’s smart and is working extremely hard,” said Jim Hendry, who is now a special assistant to Yankees General Manager Brian Cashman. While coaching a high school baseball team in his native Florida in 1981, Hendry set a goal to become a college coach. He got in his car and drove west on the road to Omaha to attend his first College World Series. As the crowd

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JUNE 2022

thinned out during the night game, Hendry made his way down to better seats behind home plate. He struck up a conversation with the man seated next to him, who turned out to be Dan Offenburger, then the athletic director at Creighton University. Hendry must’ve impressed the AD with his baseball knowledge and enthusiasm to coach, and in 1983 he was offered an assistant coaching job. Midway through the 1984 season, the then-head coach was replaced by Hendry. Seven years later, Hendry led his Creighton Bluejays to the College World Series. It was 1991, and the first time a local team ever made it to the CWS show in Omaha. The city went nuts. Most locals never thought they would see the day a local team made it. It took a young, hardworking coach to dream bigger that anyone had before. Hendry, now 66, was 34 during that magical season, a special CWS memory that Omaha fans will never forget. Hendry left Omaha after the CWS win for the newly created Florida Marlins franchise. Yet he loved the town that loved him. In 2019, he married Omahan Kerry Judge, the widow of Jason Judge, who played baseball on that 1991 Creighton team. The Hendrys have since made Omaha their home plate. The Omaha baseball legend who has devoted his life to the game is seeing another Omaha, and national, first take place. Balkovac, 34, has embarked on her maiden voyage as a minor league manager, but she, too, has set lofty goals, including dreaming big to one day become a general manager in MLB. “The New York Yankees believe in hiring good people, and this is a big step for her,” Hendry said. Ultimately, becoming a great coach involves many skills, attention to detail, and effective communication to keep everyone onboard in the organization. Balkovac’s opportunities are proving themselves boundless. “She’s got perseverance, she’s strong and determined,” Cashman said. Visit mlb.com/yankees for more information.

“

I want [my daughters] to dream big and work hard to reach their goals. Rachel is a perfect example of those things. Young girls are lucky to have a role model like her. ” —JASA TALARICO

ADVENTURE // STORY BY NIZ PROSKOCIL

The GRAPE

ESCAPE

Explore the State’s Wineries and Tasting Rooms

Soaring Wings Vineyard

“Interest has been growing exponentially over the years. It’s exciting. We love that this passport is here to help people learn about the local wineries.” —Kara Sousek

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY MATT WIECZOREK

acking a passport is essential for any international trip. Wine lovers in Nebraska can pack a unique passport they won’t want to leave home without.

The Nebraska Wine Passport started in 2008.

“When we first thought about doing the passport, we’d seen it being done in other states,” said Jim Ballard, owner of James Arthur Vineyards. Ballard was on the committee that initiated the first Nebraska Wine Passport, and his winery is still one of the stops. “There’s a lot of wineries outside the urban areas, and it’s a good way to get people out there as well.” Nebraska wineries started popping up in the late 1990s, and by the mid-2000s there were enough in the state that owners wanted to actively market their assets. “The nice thing about this, we realize it’s kind of an interesting concept,” Ballard said. “We are competitors, but we are encouraging each other. We can still be competitors and make the best wine or have the best event, but working together will make everyone stronger.” Curiosity about Nebraska wine has grown in recent years and so, too, has interest in the wine passport program, said Kara Sousek, president of the Nebraska Winery and Grape Growers Association, which runs the program. The association has designed the wine passport program to inspire Nebraskans and others to travel to wineries and tasting rooms across the state. The 2022 passport, which can be requested online for free, features 23 participating wineries and nine tasting rooms. Inside each passport are maps, descriptions of the wineries, and other details. “I think people use it as a guide to, number one, find out where the wineries are; and two, make a plan,” Ballard said. “Not everyone has the time or the resources to get to every one in the state, but maybe they are visiting family, or maybe they want to get out of town for a weekend. They can make visiting a winery one of their stops.” While visiting the winery itself may be fun anytime, most of the wineries have special events throughout the year, and the passports can often—but not always—be used while visiting for a special event. Amenities and activities vary depending on the destination, but could include live music, food pairings, tours, hikes, grape picking, workshops, and other events. The farthest west the passport takes travelers is Papa Moon Vineyards, Winery & Cider House in Scottsbluff. While long road trips are fun, Omahans can use their passport for a more local day or evening of entertainment at wineries such as Soaring Wings Vineyard in Springfield.

“I’d recommend a tasting, it’s our souvenir wine glass with five tastings for $8,” said Kelly Simpson, the interim tasting room manager at Soaring Wings. “Even if you know you want more of the dry side…or know you want more of the sweet side. We offer that all the time we are open.” Prizes are also part of the fun. At each winery and tasting room, visitors can get their passport stamped. Those who collect 10 stamps can win a T-shirt. Collecting 15 stamps, or stamps at all participating wineries, enters the passport holder into drawings for wine-themed gifts. The drawings will occur in January 2023, giving travelers lots of time to partake of many boozy grapes. In 2021, more than 700 passports, a record high, were redeemed at the end of the year for prizes, Sousek said. “Interest has been growing exponentially over the years. It’s exciting. We love that this passport is here to help people learn about the local wineries,” Sousek said. “You can have a unique experience at each one.” Richard Hilske and his wife, Amy, have participated in the Nebraska Wine Passport program since opening their winery, Cellar 426, in 2012. Visitors there can enjoy an array of food and wine options, along with a varying lineup of events, ranging from music and crafting to wine education classes. “It’s a great way to reach out to wine enthusiasts,” Hilske said of the passports. Those who don’t already have a wine passport can pick one up there. Sousek, who is among the state’s growing number of grape producers, owns and operates Hundred Hills Vineyards between Raymond and Prague. Most grapes grown in the state, she said, are hardy varieties that are resistant to the cold and can withstand the harsh Nebraska winters. They include Edelweiss and light-skinned La Crosse grapes used for white wines, along with Petite Pearl and Frontenac grapes for reds. Hundred Hills itself grows grapes for several Nebraska wineries, including some that are featured in the wine passport. That’s good news for Ballard, who said, “We had no expectations of how long it would go. The most fun is, we’ll have people coming in here the first of January saying ‘Are passports out yet?’ Then there’s people who have no idea we do this. Folks who have never been to wineries across the state or tried Nebraska wine.” Getting more Nebraskans to explore the world of wine in their state—now that’s worthy of a toast. Visit nebraskawinepassport.com for more information.

Even those who don’t know much about wine can find a fun time for not a lot of money. JUNE 2022

// 35 //

Josh Horn’s ZEAL FOR BOURBON

JUNE 2022

STORY LEO ADAM BIGA

PROFILE

PHOTOGRAPHY BILL SITZMANN | DESIGN MATT WIECZOREK

.. u s i n g t h e c u n n i n g o f a ..

Hunter on the Prowl J

osh Horn pursues coveted varieties of bourbon with the excitement and cunning of a hunter on the prowl for a trophy mount. The Omaha resident described tracking down so-called “unicorn” bourbons as “the thrill of the chase.” Horn doesn’t consider himself a bourbon expert, but he shares his undisguised passion with fellow aficionados and hobbyists of America’s designated whiskey. He founded the Bourbon Lovers Omaha affinity group. Horn cultivated his first fellow spirit hunters in neighbors and friends Chris Wurtele, Dan McCrills, and Chad Wilcox. The group later added Jason Enghauser. In two-and-a-half years, the official Facebook page membership has grown to more than 3,600. While the large group has gathered almost solely online, with COVID-19 restrictions easing, Horn looks forward to working with a retailer to have a Bourbon Lovers Omaha private label barrel distilled for members to purchase and drink. Bourbon Lovers blind tastings and other social gatherings may be in the group’s future. Much of the allure of bourbon is the scarcity and rarity of certain flavors or brands, Horn said. “I think a lot of it is people want what they can’t have. And there’s some collectors that just want to say, ‘Hey, I have this and I’ll never open it.’ Some retail liquor stores have a great collection, but put a price tag on so high that no one’s going to buy it, so it just sits on the shelf.” Laurie Hellbusch, owner of Spirit World in Omaha, finds this fandom fascinating and puzzling. “The popularity around bourbon is unlike any trend I’ve seen. We have customers who collect wine, scotch, other products…but bourbon has sparked a collector’s mindset that is unique. With other categories of wine and spirits, people experiment within the category and find what they like, then pursue products around those interests. Bourbon connoisseurs seem to be much more heavily influenced by social media, marketing, and hype surrounding particular brands.”

“

Horn doesn’t believe in simply hoarding or displaying a personal bourbon stock, but, he conceded, “When I find a special bottle…I’ll wait for a special occasion. But, if I have someone over, pretty much any bottle in my collection is open and if it’s not, I’m willing to open it and share it.” After all, cracking open a bottle to savor the contents is the point for true bourbon lovers, he said. As with any product where demand far outstrips supply and production occurs in small batches, the most prized, hardto-find bourbons can be $200-plus per bottle. A Michter’s 25-year bourbon 2020 was recently available online for $10,000. “Some of that thrill of the hunt is to find something good at a low retail price,” Horn noted. “When you find something you like you naturally want to try that again, but with bourbon there is a possibility you can’t find it. There’s some that I’ve had that I’ve never seen a bottle for sale. It makes for an unattainable gem everybody wants.” “Many bourbon hunters stand in long lines, participate in lotteries, or spend multiples of regular retail prices for these products on the secondary market without ever even tasting it,” Hellbusch said. “Eventually, supply will catch up with demand. It will be interesting to see if the popularity is still there or people move on to something else.” No two bourbons are alike. “Every single barrel of bourbon has different characteristics based on where it was stored, what years it was stored,” Horn said. Bourbon shares some traits with wine. People ascribe all sorts of undertones to it. The more it breathes, the more its accents open up. An initial sip is advised to cleanse the palette before a snort. Some enjoy sipping it on the rocks. Others prefer drinking it neat.

As for his own preferences, Horn favors bourbon with a higher alcohol content that still goes down smooth. Sharp without too much bite. Like many fans, he’s hooked on the “earthy, spicy” flavor profile. Like an addict forever chasing that first fix, Horn said once smitten, bourbon lovers crave repeating that virgin seduction. On a work trip down South he discovered a certain Buffalo Trace. He tried everywhere to find it here with no luck. However, in the process he got turned onto a new favorite, Eagle Rare, made more special by its single barrel provenance. He went back to purchase it, but it was sold out and “even to this day,” he said, “I’m still looking for that same taste.” That particular barrel of Eagle Rare was sampled and selected by Spirit World, which sometimes buys a barrel of special bourbon. Those special barrels produce about 200 bottles, and once they are sold, they are gone. Each barrel’s specific aging-storage gives these special bourbons a never-to-be repeated flavor. “At the time, I had no clue it would be something I would never find again,” Horn said. His search for rare bourbons today focuses on the E.H. Taylor line, Elijah Craig Toasted Barrel, the Weller line, Stagg Jr., Rock Hill Farms, Elmer T. Lee, Four Rose Limited Editions, and Michter’s aged offering, Booker’s. There’s no telling when a store will get bourbons that enjoy cachet. Nebraska’s relatively small population means it’s only allocated limited amounts of bourbon: The rarer the variety, the smaller the allocation. His group’s FB page posts pics from bottle kills, where the last bottle of a certain variety is enjoyed. The kills are meant to celebrate that moment of, “Hey, once this is gone, there is a possibility you will never have that again.” Search @BourbonLoversOmaha to join the Facebook group, or visit spiritworldwine.com.

When you find something you like, you naturally want to try that again, but with bourbon there is a possibility you can’t find it. There’s some that I’ve had that I’ve never seen a bottle for sale. It makes for an unattainable gem everybody wants.” —JOSH HORN JUNE 2022

DANTE PIZZ E R IA .COM

Give Them Something to Brunch About

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JUNE 2022

FEATURE | STORY sara locke PHOTOGRAPHY bill sitzmann FOOD STYLING saraj jane hunt DESIGN matt wieczorek

BRUNCHES MADE WITH LOVE, LOCAL INGREDIENTS, AND MORE

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Lula B’s

See page 48

JUNE 2022

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FEATURE | BRUNCH

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Orleans Room See page 48

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JUNE 2022

breakfast is the most important meal of the day,

and lunch is a bite before getting back to the business of life. When the two meet in the middle, however, diners have a meal worth celebrating. Every weekend in Omaha, people are breaking bread over brunches that are whimsical, sophisticated, and downright delectable. After a bit of detailed research, Omaha Magazine brings readers several notable brunches, and brunch items, around the metro, including where, and at what times, one can sink their teeth into them. Many restaurants also serve specials on any given brunch day, sometimes elevating their eggs Benedict to filet Benedict or trying a new craft cocktail.

ACADIAN GRILLE

725 N. 114TH ST. SUNDAYS 11 A.M. TO 2 P.M. —ACADIANGRILLE.COM Popular “Cajun” cuisine throughout the last hundred years has often been caricaturized by over-thetop TV chefs, but Acadian Grille has made a very mindful effort to respect and reflect on Acadian tradition and recipes passed down through generations. Loved for their reverence toward flavor development through traditional spices and slow soul food techniques, Acadian Grille is making education and cultural appreciation delicious. Diners can linger over Acadian’s creamy "grits and ?" brunch. The dish can be topped with anything from the “extras” portion of the menu. Andouille sausage or shrimp are two traditional options that often accompany this ground corn staple of Southern cuisine. Note: As of presstime, Acadian Grille had discontinued brunch due to staff issues, but said they hope to bring it back.

CADDY’S KITCHEN AND COCK TAILS

115 W. BROADWAY SATURDAY AND SUNDAY 11 A.M. TO 3 P.M. —CADDYSKITCHENAND COCKTAILS.COM This decidedly decadent brunch isn’t for the rowdy crowd, but rather for distinguishing diners looking to enjoy a fun afternoon with friends. Caddy’s punch features apple-flavored whiskey and orange vodka—not one’s average glass of pineapple juice. Bacon bourbon syrup adds a decidedly mature twist to any dish. A recommended dish is the short-rib Benny—eggs Benedict with short ribs and jalapeño jam on a cheddar biscuit with housemade hollandaise.

CHARLIE’S ON THE LAKE

4150 S. 144TH ST. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY 9 A.M. TO 2 P.M. —CHARLIESONTHE LAKE.NET Each holiday arrives with a new brunch menu at this Omaha favorite, and a special twist on classic favorites, but every weekend is a celebration of its very own. With a patio for sunny summer days and plenty of room for guests, one can sip a sangria on the patio and peruse a menu of crab cake Benedicts and New England Lobster Rolls. An elegant choice, however, is the breakfast soufflé, packed with artichoke hearts, ham, bacon, eggs, and cheeses, then topped with sautéed spinach and hollandaise sauce.

BRUNCH | FEATURE

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Jams

See page 47

JUNE 2022

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FEATURE | BRUNCH

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Jimbos Diner See text on right

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JUNE 2022

JA MS

1101 HARNEY ST. 7814 DODGE ST. 17070 WRIGHT PLAZA SATURDAY 11 A.M. TO 2 P.M. AND SUNDAY 10 A.M. TO 2 P.M. —JAMSEATS.COM Jams has long been known as a go-to spot for weekend dining. With three locations strattegically spaced in the Old Market, almost the exact center of the city, and West O, anyone can access this local favorite. Here, the chicken and waffles serve as the standout. Jams serves their famous coconut chicken over pearl sugar Belgian waffles with raspberry sauce and two eggs. Also enjoyable is the Jams Fin De Semana Tacos. Short ribs and scrambled eggs are served in a corn or flour tortilla with ancho Jack cheese and cilantro crema.

JIMBO’S DINER

7101 S. 84TH ST. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY 6:30 A.M. TO 2 P.M. —LAVISTAKENO.COM/ JIMBO-S-DINER Housed inside La Vista Keno is Jimbo’s Diner, ready to defeat one’s weekend cravings with traditional American diner fare that’s sure to hit the spot. Any of the stick-to-yourribs classics will put an end to a patron’s hunger. The featured dish to try there is the Jimbo’s Jumbo, which threatens to become one’s go-to gut-busting indulgence. Featuring a hand-cut crisp breaded sirloin topped with sausage gravy, hash browns, two eggs served to order, and a choice of biscuits, toast, or pancakes.

ORLEANS ROOM

THE COTTONWOOD HOTEL 302 S. 36TH ST. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY FROM 10 A.M. TO 2 P.M. —THECOTTONWOOD HOTEL.COM Located in the beautiful Cottonwood Hotel in Blackstone, Orleans Room isn’t a standard continental breakfast. Quaint seating and luxurious Art Decoinspired decor provide the background to a luxurious meal, regardless of whether a diner orders oysters on the half shell or a sumptuous lobster salad with the hotel’s signature Bloody Mary featuring Wheatley vodka. The choice here is an elevated avocado toast topped with an egg, sprinkled with everything seasoning, and served with caperberry chips and crème fraiche. Smoked salmon can be added for a decadent treat, while a prickly pear mimosa serves a sweet finish.

LULA B’S

902 DODGE ST. MONDAY-THURSDAY 7 A.M. TO 2 P.M. FRIDAY-SUNDAY 7 A.M. TO 3 P.M. —LULABSOMAHA.COM The central location and casual, comfortable setting play second fiddle to the celebratory vibe at Lula B’s near the Capitol District. Even the most indulgent items on the menu feel fresh and mindful, and the highoctane craft cocktails leave brunchers feeling energized instead of nap-ready. One popular menu item is shrimp tacos. This Tex-Mex favorite is made with crispy fried corn tortillas, sautéed shrimp, fresh avocado, and Mexican slaw, topped with chef’s special cocktail sauce.

BRUNCH | FEATURE

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Acadian Grille See page 43

JUNE 2022

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BRUNCH | FEATURE

SPONSORED

NEW CASSEL RETIREMENT CENTER A RIBBON-CUTTING EVENT WAS HELD TO CELEBRATE THE LIFE-CHANGING GIFTS GIVEN TO NEW CASSEL RETIREMENT CEN T ER BY T HE RYA N FOUNDAT ION.

Dr. Wayne and Eileen Ryan founded the Ryan Foundation to support organizations important to them. New Cassel, Nebraska's largest assisted living facility founded by the School Sisters of St. Francis, coordinated a stunning dessert and meal experience to honor The Ryan Foundation's generosity. The event offered residents, board members, and staff a dessert showcase provided by celebrity Chef Michelle Kaiser, founder of The Omaha Bakery, and a delectable meal by New Cassel's own Chef Angie Knievel and Chef Derek Grauel. The Ryan Foundation has generously donated over $2.2 million to preserve and upgrade New Cassel. A portion of this donation transformed The Ryan Family Dining Room with new adjustable height tables to improve accessibility, chairs, lighting, benches, and beautiful

décor. These new items have allowed New Cassel to create various dining styles, from intimate dining with seating for two or family-style dining with seating for eight or more. Tha nk s to The Rya n Foundation's donation to modernize the kitchen, Chef Angie Knievel and Chef Derek Grauel have redefined industry standards for dining in a retirement community. The cooking and food preparation areas were redesigned, and state-of-the-art equipment such as a range, griddle, and Bluetooth/Wi-Fiequipped combination oven, the largest in Nebraska, were installed to provide a more upscale made-to-order menu. A wider variety of menu choices is now available to better meet the nutritional needs of those who live at New Cassel without compromising the quality of food or table service quality. Upgrades also include a restaurant-style point of sales ordering system with tablets for seamless and efficient service.

The generosity of The Ryan Foundation does not stop there. A new heating and cooling system for the majority of New Cassel was also funded. Expansion of the coffee shop and a more welcoming reception area allows better accessibility for community members and their visitors. Contemporary décor and furniture were added to every floor, and new sunroom windows provided a home-like atmosphere. The ELPAS system, which ensures reliable, accurate real-time location awareness of New Cassel residents, was expanded to include the outdoor walking path. All of this has been made possible because of the late Dr. Wayne and Eileen Ryan's dedication to aging. Wayne and Eileen's memory lives on at New Cassel and ensures that the aging person is never forgotten by providing a life filled with dignity. New Cassel Retirement Center 402.393.2277 newcassel.org

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZM

FEATURE

ANN | DESIGN BY MATT WIECZ OREK

STORY BY JULIUS FREDRICK

The Rise of the

VIRTUAL // 52 //

JUNE 2022

ido Omar GarrThe Churro Truck , er Co-own o Spot & El Churr

> Swi pe to Indulge <

KITCHEN JUNE 2022

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W “

I’m fortunate to have started my business here, and to have grown up here ... people going out of their way to make sure they support local FIrst.

”

Jon Stastny

hen lockdowns mandated by directed health measures first took effect in 2020, an unsettling pall fell over the lobbies, bistros, bars, and dining rooms of Omaha; beloved public spaces were sapped of complexion, eerily void of sound save for isolated murmurs of “so, what do we do now?”

Restaurateurs tend to be resourceful, tenacious, and well acquainted with pressure, but under such extreme circumstances— and with livelihoods at stake en masse— Darwinisms such as “adapt or die” found renewed, weighty purchase in the restaurant industry’s collective psyche.

Yet, from wolly mammoth sirloin served on stoneware circa 10,000 BCE—to candied rose petals painstakingly finessed to “bloom” under Michelin stars—the why of the food industry remains a constant: people love to eat, and to eat well. It’s the how, and especially the where, that have fallen under public scrutiny in recent years. Much like sustained calls for remote work, what was initially spurred by alarm and necessity cooled into a matter of convenience and quality-of-life: fast, easy, hyper-efficient meal delivery at the tap of a screen. A growing percentage of diners find it’s a return to basic formula: distance divided by time. The strobing phone; the climbing speedometer; the ringing doorbell; the mouthwatering meal. “Keep the change.” This explosive, arguably conditioned surge in demand has brought another industry trend from a tepid simmer to a rolling boil: Virtual kitchens—also known as commissary kitchens, cloud kitchens, and (somewhat divisively) ghost kitchens— forego most furnishings under stainless steel’s 11% chromium threshold. They thrive on delivery via online orders, and a single kitchen may dish up various “concepts,” with multiple brands occupying a single range whether in tandem or in shifts.

VIRTUAL KITCHEN

FEATURE

Jon Stastny is the owner of the Wonton Jon’s food truck since 2019—and at time of writing, a key player in hyperlocal Blend Virtual Food Hall. He has formed strong opinions on the topic. “I really don’t want to be associated as a ‘ghost kitchen,’ because we are trying to do the opposite of that. We’re trying to conceptually do the same thing, but in a better way for [local] business,” Stastny said, referencing a menagerie of Omaha exclusives—Won Ton Jon’s, The Galley, The Deviled Egg Co., and more—all available at the collective located on 107th and Q streets. Stastny associates the term ‘ghost kitchen’ with ‘white label,’ wherein big names lend little more than celebrity in exchange for huge cuts of profit. “There’s all kinds of these nationwide virtual brands—you know, Wiz Khalifa is not cooking chicken, right, like, he just slapped his name on a chicken concept,” Stastny continued. “It’s a way to infuse business into these bigger chains, and then all the money goes out [of the community].” Though, Stastny does consider Omaha exceptional in its deference to local enterprise. “I’m fortunate to have started my business here, and to have grown up here,” Stastny affirmed, “because that’s the environment, you know, that Omaha fosters in terms of locality, and people going out of their way to make sure they support local first.” Omaha’s insular support for local entrepreneurs may have played a part in restaurant co-owners Hannah and Omar Garrido’s choice to buck the virtual trend for a traditional, full-service establishment. “We started out as The Churro Truck in 2016; we just opened El Churro Spot on Feb. 26, 2022,” Hannah said, flush with excitement over their new south 50th Street location. “The business owns me,” Omar quipped. “It’s been a hard road, but we’re here.” Inspired by a visit to Mexico where Omar noticed throngs of tourists encircling local churro vendors, the couple decided to take the concept and punch the gas— rearview not included. Of course, being in Omaha, the journey wasn’t without its share of potholes.

JUNE 2022

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FEATURE

VIRTUAL KITCHEN

“T

he truck life is harder than expected,” Hannah conceded. “You not only run into everyday business issues, but mechanical issues…the amount of times we were late to events or had to cancel because our truck was stuck on the road, I can’t tell you how many.”

Another was finding a decent commercial kitchen, ultimately settled by parking the truck in favor of four solid walls and a kitchen all their own.

“By law [food truck s] need to have a commercia l k itchen,” Oma r sa id. “There’s a lot of community kitchens, they’ll have like four or five trucks, and for me…I honestly never liked them; we’re very specif ic about how we want our stuff, so we were always looking for a kitchen that was completely empt y, which was tough.” Taking in the vibrant Churro Spot dining area, plus a glance past the swinging kitchen door, one can tell the couple’s need for privacy is well founded; the space is pristine, and the menu items— taco plates, burritos, horchata, and, of course, churros—are prepared with exacting detail regarding presentation and f lavor profile. Meanwhile, in Omaha’s Benson neighborhood, Chef Will Birge of Mealbox provides a unique case study. Professionally trained at the MCC Institute for Culinary Arts, Birge owned neither a restaurant nor a food truck of his own prior to starting his made-to-order meal delivery business

in 2019—and technically, he still doesn’t. Birge leapt into the virtual kitchen mix pre-pandemic under duress, unknowingly fortuitous in his timing. “There was a period in the summer of 2018 when I had an accident that basically immobilized my foot, a blade stuck in my foot,” Birge recalled with a grimace, “and just sitting around the house for months bored out of my mind, I just posted online to see if anyone was interested in having meals delivered to their home…10 clients grew to 20, then it grew to 50, and that’s when I realized that this could be something.” With Mealbox’s rapidly scaling clientele, Birge needed more space, and pronto. He would find it in a demure, tucked away spot on 65th and Maple streets. “I believe this used to be a butcher shop, something along those lines, years ago,” Birge said, the kitchen now sporting a medley of fresh ingredients, made-fromscratch sauces, and a large blackboard reading: ‘Cooking is a manifestation of the human soul.’ While Birge still lists a phone number on the Mealbox website, in true virtual kitchen fashion, the layout is designed for online shopping with orders available gallery-style from the site’s ‘menu’ tab—though a physical retail hub is under consideration. Avoiding the pitfalls of national delivery services like DoorDash and Uber Eats, Birge supports his own f leet of delivery drivers and a small kitchen crew that he personally oversees. His greatest benefactor, however, is closer to home.

This explosive, arguably conditioned surge in demand has brought another industry trend from a tepid simmer to a rolling boil: Virtual kitchens. // 56 //

JUNE 2022

“I’ll tell you what, I’m lucky to have a wife that does,” Birge said when asked about balancing the business side of Mealbox with the demands of high-volume cookery. “If I had to do all that, I couldn’t do what I do. She lets me focus on the food and making that perfect.” “It’s interesting, but all the cards got laid out correctly,” he said. “Yeah, I’m just blessed, just lucky.” Chef Birge’s professional training and decades of culinary experience undoubtedly factor into the success of Mealbox, but unseasoned entrepreneurs aren’t without resources of their own. Nonprofits like North Omaha’s No More Empty Pots, and their cross-river counterpart in Kitchen Council, offer specialized “incubator” programs to supply, educate, and promote prospective startups in their formative stages. No More Empy Pots' co-founder and CEO Nancy Williams emphasizes the nurturing of community food systems as the onus of their operation, with entrepreneurship an all-too-important facet. “When someone shows up here, they should be able to see the different sectors of the food system in action, from production to processing, consumption, distribution, and recycling,” Williams said. “Our framework is more about helping to develop a more resilient food system where everybody gets what they need out of it.” “And one of our goals is to help our entrepreneurs connect to local food systems,” added Entrepreneur Team Manager Eric Purcell, “coordinating with farmers markets…looking for consistent buyers…” Located in Council Bluffs’ Pottawattamie Arts, Culture & Entertainment Center (PACE), The Kitchen Council focuses exclusively on the commercial development of its members. “We really see the program as a launching pad, and a testing ground, so to speak,” said its managing director, Holly Benson. “We’ve had a couple ghost operations out of this space, and we welcome the concept with the understanding that there’s a growth plan, a growth trajectory in mind.”

Both organizations offer ample commissary footage, top-end equipment, and on-site pop-up venues for members to field-test their wares. The main difference comes down to payment, with No More Empty Pots offering kitchen rental by the hour and Kitchen Council billing a f lat monthly fee.

ng i r S

While local movement in the virtual kitchen space is fairly transparent, it’s often national chains that fulfill the spectral imagery terms like “ghost kitchen” evoke.

into Savi

ngs

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Philadelphia-based consumer goods and delivery company Gopuff is no exception, but kitchen lead Dylan Koslaphirom said area businesses needn’t worry about the company chewing through culinary real estate.

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“It’s a trailer, just a kitchen on wheels, usually sitting outside the warehouse,” Koslaphirom said, speaking on Gopuff ’s initiative to offer hot meals in addition to their vast product stockpiles.

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When pressed to divine the fate of virtual kitchens: “The community aspect, that’s definitely here in Omaha. I don’t see that going away here. But in high-convenience places like New York or San Francisco? It’s the future,” Koslaphirom forecasted. “After all, time is a thing people simply can’t get back.”

SUMMER IS HERE

For more information, search @thechurrotruckomaha on Facebook, or visit blendfoodhall.com, mealboxomaha.com, nmepomaha.org, kitchencouncil.org, or paceartsiowa.org.

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STORY Kara Schweiss PHOTOGRAPHY Steve Kowalski, A Better Exposure DESIGN Matt Wieczorek

HISTORY

I R O N

A G E

F la tiron Building Pre s se s On

maha’s iconic Flatiron building had a wonderful beginning. An article in a January 1912 edition of the Omaha Daily Bee previewed the eagerly anticipated spring opening of the building designed to fit the odd triangular lot created where St. Mary’s Avenue intersects Howard Street between 17th and 18th streets. Inspired by New York City’s 22-story Flatiron Building that opened a decade earlier, banker and landowner Augustus F. Kountze envisioned a similarly shaped, four-story Georgian Revival building. Architect George Bernhard Prinz, whose works included the Livestock Exchange Building and the Tudor-revival style clubhouse at Omaha Country Club, designed Omaha’s Flatiron; and J.C. Mardis Co. (builder of Vinton School and multiple hotels) was named as builder. The first-f loor commercial and office space, the Daily Bee article said, would provide “exceptional opportunities and advantages for high-class retail merchandising.” The building’s three upper f loors would be designated for “guests of the best class.” Omaha Daily News ads boasted 96 rooms and 30 baths, with rents starting at $18 per month.

It wasn’t long before someone realized the building was perfect for a restaurant. By December 1912, according to the Omaha Daily Bee, Ida Cooke opened the building’s first cafe. The first Flatiron Cafe would be one of several restaurants to operate on the building’s west end over the next 110 years, including the Hayden House in the 1950s and, eventually, the modern incarnation of the Flatiron Cafe that Steve and Kathleen Jamrozy opened in 1995.

By the time the Jamrozys were considering the site, the building had gone through some rough times. It was repeatedly plagued by f looding that was only somewhat alleviated by a 1921 grading project and was finally being addressed in the mid-1990s. It deteriorated in the 1960s and 1970s; a 1977 photo from the Durham Museum’s archives shows a rooftop sign missing an “L” (reading “Fatiron.”) Benjamin Wiesman of Wiesman Development stepped forward to preserve and renovate the iconic building, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1987. “As loved as our Flatiron Building is, there were a number of times it was slated for the wrecking ball,” Kathleen Jamrozy said. “Fortunately, the Wiesman family in the ’80s saw the potential there and they put a lot of money into refurbishing it for offices. They also did the work to get it on the national historic register.” To modern consumers, a “f latiron” is a tong-like cosmetic device that straightens hair. A “f latiron” 100 years ago was a clothes iron, made of cast iron with a tall triangular chamber underneath for users to insert coal to heat the press plate. Builders of several dozen Flatiron buildings (by official or colloquial name) in the U.S. must have seen majesty in the design. “As you are approaching the building, there is a sense—it’s almost like the prow of a ship,” Jamrozy said. She’s visited the Flatiron buildings in NYC, Chicago, and San Francisco, and restaurant patrons sent postcards from Flatiron buildings all over the world. “[Those were] always a delight to receive.”

Jamrozy found the less-documented past of the building intriguing, she said. Historical rumor has it that the hotel was a haven for mobsters in the 1930s, including the infamous Al Capone, who was associated with Omaha’s crime boss Tom Dennison. “We always joked that there was ‘mobster dust’ we cleaned off the ledges,” Jamrozy said. “There is a charm to the mythology of it.” Although the original vision was to open a casual dining restaurant elsewhere in the city, the Jamrozys felt the proximity to the Orpheum and the downtown hotels was better suited to fine dining. “Certainly, we were a destination restaurant,” Jamrozy said. “But it was also a place where people would come and park and have dinner, and then be able to stroll downtown, which I always felt was such a plus.” “It was our absolute favorite place to eat for years and years. We ate there every time we attended Orpheum events—every few months—and had lots of special-occasion dinners,” former patron Gary Glissman said. “The Flatiron definitely had some of the best food, service, and atmosphere of any restaurant in Omaha.” “People would come in and feel special every time they visited,” Jamrozy said. “Hospitality was our brand.” Jamrozy couldn’t see the brand working for indefinite carryout service when the COVID-19 pandemic hit. The Flatiron Cafe closed in 2020. The building hosted a series of pop-ups by restaurauteur Nick Bartholomew in summer 2021, and in October last year it was announced that Omaha’s second Dirty Birds location would move in this year. “What’s important is that the Flatiron has held many stories,” Jamrozy said. “The building has a long history and, God willing, it will have a long history ahead.” Visit hotelflatiron.com for more information.

Inspire d by New Yor k Ci t y ’s 2 2- s tor y F la t iron Building t ha t op ene d a de c ade e ar lier, banker and landow ner Augus t us F. K oun t z e env isione d a similar l y shap e d , f our- s tor y G e orgian R ev i val building . JUNE 2022

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Taylor Dreessen

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JUNE 2022

the CityY oLights Of the DreesseN FarM ung Farmer Rooted to the Land GEN O | Story by Patrick McGee // Photography by Bill Sitzmann // Design by Matt Wieczorek

pproximately 12 miles north of Village Pointe in Omaha, between dusty grain bins, there is an old metal barn full of cherry red tractors. The Dreessens, a multi-generational family of farmers, congregate here often after long days of working the land. They are generous to guests with cold ones and are inclusive in their shop talk. Many visitors wander in from neighboring crop fields, and frequently. Taylor Dreessen, 23, is the youngest Dreessen still farming.

Taylor’s father, Tim, and grandfather, Wayne, 77, ran the family farm long before Taylor was born. In fact, the family lineage of farmers goes back to times in which crop fields dominated Douglas County, long before Wayne drove a tractor. Wayne said the Dreessens once farmed land that is now part of the city of Omaha—where there is a Walmart. The Dreessens are unmistakably agronomists, and Taylor is no exception. He views cultivating the family's 1,800 acres of corn and soybeans as a duty and an honor. Throughout the interview, the reserved Taylor repeatedly deflected questions to his dad, grandpa, and wife Miriam, all of whom he invited to sit in with him. Taylor is young for a career farmer. Tim said there aren’t many young people farming. Taylor, Tim, and Wayne agree that the initial investment of land and equipment is prohibitive to entry into the field, but that wasn’t always the case. Taylor said he is fortunate to have come from a lineage that can provide the opportunity to be involved, and because it’s something he grew up with, he wanted to continue it. Nevertheless, Taylor’s love for the soil is undeniable in the way he spends his so-called free time working the earth. The Dreessens said that in order to survive, modern farmers must bring something more to the table. Many have side jobs. Many bale hay. Others seed. Some sell crop insurance. Taylor’s side job is more technical and pragmatic—he is a trained diesel mechanic. A young farmer is a rarity, but he is poised to continue successfully, in part, because his trade has synergy with agriculture. He went to college for diesel-Ag. technology and works full time as a mechanic. He reinvests his income and skills into the farm. His valuable skills shine in a tangible way. It is Taylor who maintains and repairs the farm equipment, reducing family costs considerably. His father tells of a recent transmission rebuild that saved tens of thousands of dollars, and further, Tim said that many repairs require long waits that would be crippling to most farmers. Miriam, also 23, grew up on a cul-de-sac in the city. Her presence complements the family like a pristine urban development does the edge of a cropfield—new to the landscape, but designed for it. The couple met at 16 at

Bennington High School, on the outskirts of the Omaha metro in an area half-urban and half-rural, but likely to one day be engulfed by suburban development. She is a medical sonographer at an Omaha hospital. Her skill set does not necessarily translate to farming, but her shared interests with Taylor help facilitate their longevity in agriculture— shooting, hunting, fishing, playing outdoors, and getting dirty. These pastimes require open spaces, something that the Dreessens have in abundance. However, the world is closing in on such spaces, and urban crawl can nearly be seen from the gravel pad on which the Dreessens park their trucks outside the shop—a “third place” where passersby on the road stop when they see a truck outside. All are welcome. Too few places like this exist outside of their world. In the shop, the Dreessens and company crack open cold drinks after long days of labor. They pour generations of knowledge into Taylor so that he may carry on his family’s legacy—and Taylor absorbs their generational experience like the crop fields do after a generous spring rain. Much to Taylor’s good fortune, no irrigation is needed on the Dreessen farm, and the soil is unusually fertile. The land is invaluable, but the Dreessens will never sell it. So, as the city encroaches, it cannot overtake the family farm, but it can change the landscape. It will change future generations. The sun will set a little higher, over the roofs of expanding suburbs. Cul-de-sacs will eventually replace county roads. No doubt, the nearby city lights already obscure the night sky on the periphery of the Dreessen farm.

They pour generations of knowledge into Taylor so that he may carry on his family’s legacy—and Taylor absorbs their generational experience like the crop fields do after a generous spring rain. JUNE 2022

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Giving Feature || Story Karen Campbell | Photography Bill Sitzmann | Design Matt Wieczorek

EVERY Bit MATTERS Family of Three Serves as Mighty Force for Food Bank for the Heartland

arla and Jim Franzluebbers were childhood friends who became high school sweethearts, and ultimately became bride and groom. They grew up in Beemer, Nebraska, about 85 miles north and west of Omaha. Karla is a nurse and patient advocate in the cardiology arena at Novartis. Jim works in medical sales for bioMérieux. Their most notable title, however, is that of volunteer. The Franzluebbers offer their time to the Food Bank for the Heartland about twice a month, typically on a Tuesday and on a Saturday with their church group from St. Charles Borromeo Catholic Church in Gretna. “Volunteering at the Food Bank is just such a simple and easy thing to do,” Jim said. “Everyone is busy, but if we could each carve out just a couple hours a month to volunteer, we can collectively make a big difference.” They have helped the Food Bank BackPack program, which runs throughout the school year. Volunteers assemble packages of nutritious, ready-to-eat or easyto-prepare weekend meals for children in need in the community. School counselors and teachers determine which children receive the bags of food to take home. “We distribute approximately 8,400 backpacks each week during the school year to 256 schools in our community,” said Joanne Kamppinen, director of development for the Food Bank for the Heartland. Jim estimated they, along with their church group, have assembled between 4,500 and 5,000 backpack meals in a matter of two-and-a-half hours. “Those smaller pieces add up,” he said. “Small amounts of time, small amounts of money...it all adds up.” The Franzluebbers are instilling the same values in their 13-year-old daughter, Sophia, who just finished seventh grade at Elkhorn Valley View Middle School. “I love that they have made volunteering a family experience,” Kamppinen said. “The Franzluebbers each give their time, talents, and treasures, and they are wonderful ambassadors for the Food Bank.”

As a sixth grader in May 2021, Sophia was inspired to pitch the idea of Elkhorn Valley View partnering with the Food Bank for a competitive, yet friendly, classroom monetary donation drive. The organized young woman even asked Kamppinen for statistics on community hunger so she could reinforce the importance of the campaign to principal Chad Soupir. She also asked Kamppinen to supply several of the plastic bags used in the BackPack program to serve as donation bags. Sophia was successful, and the goal of the campaign was set at $500, which the principal enthusiastically kicked off by donating a dollar to each classroom’s Food Bank donation bag. “It was so fun to see the kids hauling in baggies of coins and loose change,” Karla said. “Every little bit helped, even a dime, and we were just hoping it would all add up to our goal.” The campaign raised $5,000. “We were really surprised and happy,” Sophia said, giving an enormous smile. She spearheaded another friendly Food Bank competition in April between her school (Elkhorn Valley View Middle School) and Elkhorn Ridge Middle School, this time with donations of food and money. Ultimately, Sophia and her parents hope to involve as many schools as possible in the community to support the Food Bank. “If we, as adults, can leave a legacy of giving of ourselves to our children, who are our future leaders, the world will be full of kindness and compassion for others,” Karla said. Visit foodbankheartland.org for more information.

“If we, as adults, can leave a legacy of giving of ourselves to our children, who are our future leaders, the world will be full of kindness and compassion for others.” —Karla Franzluebbers // 62 //

JUNE 2022

From left: Sophia, Jim, and Karla Franzluebbers

“ E ver yone is busy, bu t i f we c ould e ach c ar ve ou t jus t a c ouple hour s a mon t h to volun te er, we c an c olle c t i vel y make a big di f f erenc e .” — Jim Franz luebb er s

GIVING CALENDAR JUNE 20 2 2

June

FEATURED EVENT

Black Tie & Tails BENEFITING: NEBRASKA HUMANE SOCIETY

Location: A View West Shores

One of Omaha’s favorite animal-focused events is back in person. The NHS guild, Friends Forever, is planning a dinner, silent auction, collar toss, appearances of very important pets, and the popular "Pet a Puppy!" —nehumanesociety.org

June 1 OMAHA BEEF & FUSION CHARITY GOLF TOURNAMENT Benefiting: Fusion Referral Group Location: Eagle Hills Golf Course —@fusionreferralgroup on Facebook

June 3-4 CATTLEMEN’S BALL Benefiting: Fred & Pamela Buffett Cancer Center Location: Weeping Water, NE —cattlemensball.com

June 2 FORE POTENTIAL GOLF OUTING Benefiting: Big Brothers Big Sisters of the Midlands Location: Tiburon Golf Club —bbbsomaha.org

June 4 FORGE AHEAD 5K Benefiting: At Ease USA Location: Walnut Grove Park —ateaseusa.org/5k-run

June 2 HABITAT FORE! HUMANITY Benefiting: Habitat for Humanity Location: Eagle Hills Golf Club —habitatomaha.org June 2 EVENING FOR THE STARZ Benefiting: Alzheimers Association Location: Hilton Omaha Downtown —alz.org/nebraska June 3 SPICE DINNER Benefiting: Christ the King Educational Trust Location: Christ the King Church —ctkomaha.org June 3 STEVE HOGAN MEMORIAL Benefiting: First Tee Omaha Location: Eagle Hills Golf Course —firsttee.org

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JUNE 2022

June 4 BETTER TOGETHER 5K Benefiting: Abide Omaha June Location: Better Together Campus —abideomaha. org/getinvolved

June 5 TEE OFF AND SUPPORT WHEELCHAIR SPORTS ANNUAL GOLF TOURNAMENT Benefiting: Paralyzed Veterans of America Great Plains Chapter Location: Tiburon Golf Club —greatplainspva.org June 5 ONHS FOUNDATION GENE HAYNES OPEN Benefiting: Omaha North High School Foundation Location: Shoreline Golf Course —omahanorthhighschoolfoundation.com June

June 4 BIKE WITH MIKE Benefiting: Community Alliance Location: TBD —bikewithmikeday.com June 4 A TOAST TO OLLIE WEBB Benefiting: Ollie Webb Center Location: Hilton Omaha —olliewebbinc.org June 4 OMAHA TAKE STEPS Benefiting: Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation Location: Werner Park —cctakesteps.org

June 6 BAGS OF FUN GOLF TOURNAMENT Benefiting: Bag of Fun Omaha Location: Indian Creek Golf Club —bagsoffunomaha.org

June 6 GOLF FORE EAGLES Benefiting: Central High School Foundation Location: TBD —chsfomaha.org June 6 GOLF FORE GRANTS Benefiting: Elkhorn Public Schools Foundation Location: TBD —elkhornfoundation.org

// GIVING CALENDAR //

June 9 TEE IT UP FORE SIGHT Benefiting: Outlook NE Location: Indian Creek Golf Course —outlookne.org

COUNSELING CONNECTIONS & ASSOCIATES

June 9 32ND ANNUAL GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: Millard Public Schools Foundation Location: TBD —mpsfoundation.org June 9 SCHOLARSHIP LUNCHEON Benefiting: Boys & Girls Clubs of Omaha Location: Scott Conference Center —bgcomaha.org June 9 TRIVIA NIGHT Benefiting: Nebraska Ataxia Location: Hilton Garden Inn —nebraskaataxia.org June 10 LIVE FORWARD WALK/RUN Benefiting: Keep Kids Alive Drive 25 Location: Skutt Catholic High School and Virtual —keepkidsalivedrive25.org June 10 20TH ANNUAL HOPE GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: The Hope Center for Kids Location: Field Club of Omaha —hopecenterforkids.org June 10 BLACK TIE & TAILS Benefiting: Nebraska Humane Society Location: A View West Shores —nehumanesociety.org June 10 MYSTERY BALL AUCTION AND GARAGE SALE Benefiting: Chasers Charities Location: Werner Park —chaserscharities.org June 10 STRIKE A CHORD GALA Benefiting: Heartland Family Service Location: Mid-America Center —heartlandfamilyservice.org June 11 30TH ANNIVERSARY ALUMNI REUNION Benefiting: Lutheran Service Corps Location: Hillstrom House —lutheranvolunteercorps. org/city-page-omaha

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// 65 //

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June 12 MUNROE-MEYER GUILD GARDEN WALK Benefiting: Munroe-Meyer Institute Location: various —unmc.edu/mmi

Savor the experience Voted First Place Best of Omaha since 2010 402.558.3202 cateringcreations.com

June 13 20TH ANNUAL HOPE GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: Hope Center for Kids Location: Field Club of Omaha —hopecenterforkids.com

June

June 13 GOODWILL GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: Goodwill Omaha Location: Players Club at Deer Creek —goodwillomaha.org/golf June 16 CHRIS JESSEN GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: The Lane Thomas Foundation Location: Indian Creek Golf Course —lanethomas.org June 16 GUILD SOCIAL LUNCHEON Benefiting: Joslyn Castle Location: Joslyn Castle Guild —joslyncastle.org June 19 ROLLIN’ TO COLON Benefiting: Colon Cancer Task Force Location: DC West High School —coloncancertaskforce.org June 21 THE LONGEST DAY, AN INDIVIDUALIZED FUNDRAISER Benefiting: Alzheimer’s Association Location: varies —act.alz.org

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June 22 35TH ANNUAL TRIBUTE TO WOMEN LUNCHEON Benefiting: Women’s Center for Advancement Location: Scott Conference Center —wcaomaha.org June 23 HOLES FORE HEROES Benefiting: Heart Heroes Inc. Location: Quarry Oaks Golf Club —heartheroes.org

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// GIVING CALENDAR //

June 23 GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: La Vista Community Foundation Location: Tara Hills Golf Course —lavistacommunityfoundation.com June 25 STEPPING OUT TO CURE SCLERODERMA VIRTUAL WALK Benefiting: Scleroderma Foundation, Heartland Chapter Location: Walkers choice June and online —scleroderma.org/ heartland-chapter

June 25 WHEELS OF COURAGE CAR SHOW Benefiting: Jennie Edmundson Foundation Location: Quaker Steak and Lube —jehfoundation.org

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June 25 RIDE 4 RESILIENCE & RECOVERY Benefiting: NAMI Southwest Iowa Location: Wabash Trace Trail —namisouthwestiowa.com

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June 27 OMAHA GOLF SCRAMBLE Benefiting: Fellowship of Christian Athletes Location: Shadow Ridge Country Club —omahafca.org June 29 JACK YOUNG ROUND TO REMEMBER Benefiting: Jack Young Memorial Foundation Location: Dodge Riverside Golf Course —jackyoungmemorial.org June 29 HOPS FOR HARMONY Benefiting: Project Harmony Location: Werner Park —projectharmony.com Visit omahamagazine.com for complete listings. Check with venue or event organizer to confirm.

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JUNE 2022

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“WE’D HAVE THOSE [CINNAMON ROLLS] EVERY OTHER MONDAY AT SCHOOL WITH CHICKEN SOUP.” ~RON POPP

Butter, Sugar, Flour RON POPP’S LOVE OF BAKING INSPIRES CAREER

60+ PROFILE // STORY BY DAISY HUTZELL-RODMAN // PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY DEREK JOY

he combined scent of butter, sugar, and cinnamon wafts from the kitchen as one walks into the restaurant at 1224 S. 103rd St. It’s the scent, and ingredients, to a confection that owner Ron Popp has known for most of his 65 years. “We had terrific school cooks,” Popp, originally from Dow City, Iowa, remembered. “We’d have those [cinnamon rolls] every other Monday at school with chicken soup.” Another early cooking memory is also of sweets—spending time with his four aunts combining sugar, water, corn syrup, and salt with stiff egg whites to make divinity on Christmas Day. “Made right, it’s just one of the best candies,” Popp said. In the 1970s, Popp moved roughly 60 miles south and west of his hometown to Omaha to attend college, with the intent of becoming an accountant. To pay the bills, he got a job at a brandnew Perkins restaurant. Matt and Ivan Perkins owned the restaurant chain at that time, maintaining, according to Popp, homemade dinners, pies, and gravies that made the chain successful. Within a couple of years, however, the Perkins brothers retired, and the restaurant model changed. Popp earned his associate’s degree in accounting and continued managing that Perkins for 10 years before deciding to step out on his own, settling in the former Rockbrook Coffee Shop. “It was 1,000 square-feet, and 55 seats,” Popp remembered. “It was a small place that everyone went to.” The coffee shop at Rockbrook became Popp’s Garden Cafe, and he soon expanded around the city, boasting places downtown and in Ralston, among

others. Popp took Matt and Ivan Perkins’ from-scratch ideas from the pre-corporate run Perkins, creating pies, cakes, and breads from scratch alongside potato casseroles, fresh soups, and breakfasts served at any time. Eventually, he turned to venture capitalists to help finance the expanding restaurants, and that’s when he realized he needed to move forward. “That was a big learning curve,” Popp said. “You need to be consistently mediocre to do what venture capitalists want.” Consistently mediocre is exactly what Popp did not want. He wanted good food, made from scratch, that would please customers each time. That is why he branched out on his own in 1985, and it is what would prompt him to go on his own again in 2000. He took over the Garden Cafe on Pacific Street, that aforementioned restaurant at 1224 S. 103rd St., and turned it into Wheatfields Eatery and Bakery. The emphasis is on bakery. “Our cinnamon roll recipe is the recipe from school,” Popp said. Diners can indulge in those large, fluffy confections with vanilla icing or eat the caramel pecan version, with sticky brown-sugar glaze dripping down the sides of the yeasty sweet bread.

"In Germany I learned a lot about gingerbread." -Ron Popp On a cool, below-average day in midApril, Popp stood in the kitchen, cranking out 10,000 of those cinnamon rolls for people in preparation of Easter brunches and breakfasts. He started mixing them at 10 a.m., and baked until

6 p.m. He cracked eggs by hand, melted butter over the stove, and combined the right amount of yeast and flour in the mixer time after time. After more than 20 years at Wheatfields (and many years before that at Garden Cafe) one might think that Popp would get out of the kitchen and visit cities such as Budapest and come back with memories of the art at St. Stephen's Basilica or the thermal-spring baths on Margaret Island. Popp might, but it’s the food that this passionate restaurateur comes home raving about. “The Strudel House got me to do even more with strudel,” Popp said. “They have this long silver table and they take two bakers, one on each end, and they make it there. I learned a lot about how much there is to stretching the dough. In Germany I learned a lot about gingerbread. There are a lot of different versions in Germany.” Even a trip to Switzerland gave Popp ideas about a food he had been trying to perfect. “We went to one place in Switzerland, and they had the cheese sitting out,” Popp said. “It clicked. I had been trying to figure out the secret to a good fondue—it is 100 percent the cheese.” Back in Omaha, with tweaked recipes for strudel and fondue in hand, Popp returned to the kitchen to work magic with butter, flour, and sugar. It’s something he has no intentions of leaving soon. “The thing I ask myself: Do I want to still be making cinnamon rolls in my 80s?” Popp said. The answer, he replied, is yes.

JUNE 2022 • 60 PLUS

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STORY BY KARA SCHWEISS / PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN / DESIGN BY DEREK JOY

ANDMARK ITALIAN RESTAURANT MISTER C’S CLOSED IN 2007 AFTER OPERATING MORE THAN A HALF-CENTURY IN OMAHA, BUT FANS CAN STILL ENJOY EATING ITS SIGNATURE SPAGHETTI SAUCE AND ITALIAN DRESSING 15 YEARS LATER—AT HOME. “CUSTOMERS LOVED OUR SAUCE AND DRESSING AT OUR RESTAURANT. THEY OFTEN TOLD US, ‘YOU SHOULD BOTTLE THIS,’” SAID DAVID CANIGLIA, PRESIDENT OF MISTER C’S WHOLESALE FOODS, INC. In the late 1980s, David’s brother, Larry Caniglia, consulted with local manufacturer Albert’s Fine Foods to develop Mister C’s recipes on a larger scale for retail sale. Products can still be found in grocery stores in and around Omaha or online. “Since the start, sales have grown exponentially,” David said. “Our sales increased after the closing of Mister C’s…Our wonderful customers kept the tradition alive, serving their families our products at the dinner table. Now, we have a whole generation that has never heard of Mister C’s Steak House but are die-hard fans of our products.” Omahans with fond memories of Omaha’s sole Pizza Shoppe, which closed in 2017, can drive three hours to visit one of the Pizza Shoppes in Kansas City, where the small chain originates. Or they can purchase the restaurant’s “Pink Stuff,” an aptly-named, pinkcolored, creamy garlic salad dressing, in local grocery stores or online. Several active area restaurants who offer take-home products in their restaurants have also expanded to retail. Gus Sgourakis, whose family owns Greek Islands, said the restaurant has sold its branded salad dressings (regular and sugar-free) in-house for around 20 years but began selling through local Hy-Vee grocery stores in 2015. The response has been “superb,” he said, but the team intends to keep distribution small for quality control.

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60 PLUS • JUNE 2022

“It’s important to preserve the integrity of the product,” Sgourakis said. Amigo’s offers online sales. Its food products are packed with gel packs or dry ice for shipping, but some items—including Amigo’s ranch dressing, salsa, and spicy cheese sauce—have appeared on store shelves in the past few years as well. Lincoln-based Valentino’s has sold sauces through retail distribution since the early 2000s, president Tony Messineo said. “There are three different jarred sauces: our original spaghetti sauce; my wife’s recipe from years ago, a sweet basil; and our pizza sauce,” he said, adding that the first packaged products were developed with a manufacturer for Midwest distribution in response to years of customer requests. “We took about a year and a half for R&D [research and development] to see if we could replicate it, because that’s not easy,” Messineo said. “If I were to give you a taste test of what I’d package from our stores and a bottle of the sauce you’d buy retail, they’re so close they’re indistinguishable.” The company, which also offers products online, expects to sell 200,000 jars this year. Messineo said distribution remains limited because of the challenges in shipping glass jars, but he’s not willing to switch to plastic containers because it affects the products’ taste.

Valentino’s more recently began selling frozen pizzas at Omaha and Lincoln grocery stores, and are also shipped all over the U.S. “We make those ourselves,” Messineo said. “There is extremely high quality control.” There’s good news for locals who’ve enjoyed eating a Thunderbird salad in years past at Happy Hollow Club or the Omaha Press Club. Omaha Press Club Executive Director Steve Villamonte Sr.’s father, Chef Luis Villamonte, established the Thunderbird salad as a house salad at various venues. Steve trademarked the Thunderbird dressing and began selling it in 2000 through Villamonte’s Cuisine. Hy-Vee carries the products, which can also be ordered online. “I share all recipes and the classic Thunderbird salad is on the bottle,” he said. “My Reuben dressing is in demand also and used by Runza for the Reuben Runza...My label has a picture of the Blackstone hotel but it’s my own recipe. When someone uses it on a Rueben they don’t go back to another dressing.” Recent supply-chain challenges combined with high demand have made the products scarce at times, but Steve said he is working on solutions that should improve long-term availability. He also intends to make the dressings available through Amazon. “I have requests and demands from all over the U.S. and Canada,” Steve said. Ivy Sprague with Hy-Vee’s corporate office said individual Hy-Vee stores are not only happy to carry locally produced restaurant-brand food products, they’re encouraged to, in response to consumer demand. A documentation process is in place to ensure food safety. “Our stores are run autonomously,” she said. “Any local producer or restaurant owner can approach a store director if they have a product they think customers would like.” Visit mistercs.com, pizzashoppe.com, tastesofnebraska.com, valentinos.com, thunderbirdsaladdressing.com, or a Hy-Vee to learn more or taste products.

SECTION // STORY BY XXXXXXX // PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY DEREK JOY // SECTION //

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“We took about a year and a half for R&D [research and development] to see if we could replicate it, because that’s not easy.” Tony Messino, Valentino's

W H E N I H E A R D G U N S H O T S A T H O M E I K N E W M Y D A D O R G R A N D P A W E R E O U T H U N T I N G . W H E N C A M E R O N H E A R D G U N S H O T S H E R A N A N D H I D . ” J I M

T R E B B I E N

60+ ACTIVE LIVING // STORY BY J.D. AVANT PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY DEREK JOY

J I M

T R E B B I E N

U S E S

H I S

P E N

Ju m p n i g

Jim Trebbien has opened a door he can’t close.

The retired chef and chef instructor is now the author of several books. His most provocative works contain stories he collected from people going through a thing he can’t fathom: being Black in America. These tales have given the 70-plus-year-old writer a different outlook on privilege. “People come up with a lot of reasons to blame a lot of people, but the truth is, in this society, Black people have never had a fair chance as a group,” Trebbien said.

A S

W E A P O N

FROM THE FIRES OF THE

KITCHEN TO THE FIGHT FOR EQUALITY

Trebbien’s three books are titled It’s a White Life, Journey to Understanding Race in America, and It’s Black and White. Within them, he contrasts situations and circumstances that have happened to friends and colleagues identifying as Black with his own as a white man. It’s an interesting concept. It shouldn’t feel so unique to hear a selfproclaimed ‘conservative kind of guy,’ who referenced overspending liberals and what makes America great, passionately acknowledge Black Americans’ historically unfair position in America. “Most of my conservative friends say, ‘Well Jim, people ought not to do anything wrong and they’d be fine,’” Trebbien said. “If nothing else, why is this happening? If all these Black people are guilty, why is it happening? Why do more Black people have to commit crimes? Something is driving this.”

Trebbien admits he wasn’t always mindful of racial issues growing up a mile south of Lake Okoboji in Milford, Iowa. Attending Catholic school and working on the family farm kept him far away from the tribulations happening further south and in the big cities. It wasn’t until after Trebbien was drafted into the Army in September 1969 that he witnessed his most memorable account of bigotry. After completing basic training, a simple gesture like letting a fellow Black soldier sit on his bed in the barracks earned him scorn from a white soldier. “I noticed a white kid that I later learned was from Tennessee jump up and stare with a scowl on his face. After the Black guy left the room the white kid said, ‘Man, what the hell you doing? You let that kid sit on your bed. Where I come from we don’t let Black people sit on our beds,’” Trebbien remembered.

This blatant display of racism stuck with Trebbien throughout his life. He had seen a small example of the intolerance some people had for Black Americans. It was uncomfortable and unfair. “I had never thought of that. I wasn’t brought up to be a racist. I wasn’t aware of these problems,” he said. Treating people with respect, kindness, and dignity is something Trebbien always strived to accomplish. It came in handy during his stint as dean of the Culinary Arts program at Metro Community College’s Fort Omaha campus in the mid-1980s. The college’s location in the heart of North Omaha—which, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, accommodated nearly 70% of Omaha’s Black population in the 1980s—gave him relationships with myriad people across the racial spectrum. Trebbien’s position kept him mindful of issues regarding diversity and race, but his cognizance didn’t necessarily lead to action.

“Being aware doesn’t mean I don't have feelings for people that didn’t have certain opportunities,” he said. His duties as a mentor eventually led to a remarkable meeting with a new mentee Trebbien met on a cold, windy January day. While having lunch at the campus with his understudy—a younger Black man named Cameron—Trebbien asked his new acquaintance about his life and got more than he expected. “I think he wanted to tell this older white man that sipped tea in the afternoon about his life,” Trebbien recalled.

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Cameron told his new mentor about his loving mother who cried when she was forced to move her family from their home to the downtrodden projects after separating from his father.

The new neighborhood was unsafe for a young boy. Cameron told Trebbien how an innocent game of cops-and-robbers with friends devolved into chaos when a man came running from an apartment pursued by another man shooting a real gun. Cameron and his friends hid behind cars during the shootout. Trebbien was enthralled by Cameron’s tales. They found themselves standing behind a building in the frigid conditions as Cameron continued telling accounts of his past. “When I heard gunshots at home, I knew my dad or grandpa were out hunting. When Cameron heard gunshots he ran and hid,” Trebbien said. Some stories truly hit home, and after meeting with Cameron a number of times, Trebbien approached his mentee with the idea to tell his story in a book. “I was fascinated, not only by all the crap he’d been through, but [that] I had done a lot of things he had done, only worse,” Trebbien said, recalling a domestic incident with his former wife that mirrored one of Cameron’s encounters. Except Cameron ended up in jail while Trebbien stayed home. “Police came to the house, asked me a couple of questions and left. Never followed through,” Trebbien remembered. It made him feel like he had some kind of unfair advantage over his mentee. “It’s like, oh well, straighten up and don’t do anything wrong and the police won’t come by,” Trebbien said. “But, Cameron was a good guy not doing anything terribly wrong that had to put up with a lot of crap in his life.” Unfortunately, Cameron refused to coauthor or fully lend his likeness to the book, hence the absence of his last name throughout this article. Former gang ties and a strong desire to separate his family from his past life made Cameron stay far away from those stories from another lifetime. // 76 //

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Trebbien decided to interview other Black people he knew about their life experiences for his book.

The officer tensed before ordering Trebbien, “Sit where you are. Both of you.”

One account told by his former secretary involved her successful brother, who owned a house in a predominantly white area in West Omaha. He was stopped numerous times in his neighborhood by police officers wanting to check his registration—to the point it became embarrassing.

Despite Cameron’s attempts to calm him down, Trebbien pressed on.

This harassment by law enforcement became a disturbing trend in Trebbien’s documents. In the past, he may have chalked up these run-ins with the police as normal events. Those things happen to people, move along. An occurrence with Cameron after a lunch at McDonald’s, however, broadened his perception. Following their meal, Trebbien offered to give his mentee a ride to Crossroads Mall. Heading south on 72nd Street in Trebbien’s Ford truck, he remembers going about 10 miles per hour over the speed limit—as was the surrounding traffic—when they noticed a police car heading north. “Oh man, you’re going to get pulled over in a minute. Wait and see,’” he recalled Cameron saying. Two blocks from Crossroads they saw the flashing red lights of the police car behind them. Trebbien couldn’t believe it. Why would the officer stop him amongst a host of other cars speeding alongside? “How’d you know they were going to stop me?” he asked Cameron. “Think about it Jim, here you are, older white guy with a young Black guy in the car. What do you think they think? Maybe we are up to a little mischief. You were stopped for being a white guy with a Black guy.” Trebbien took his mentee’s accurate prediction seriously. When the officer came to the door Trebbien couldn’t help but ask why he was stopped. “You were speeding back there,” the officer said. Trebbien refused to believe that reason and felt defiant. “Oh, OK,” he said. “Since you’re stopping me for speeding, I’m two blocks from dropping this young man off. He’s going to get out of the car in just a second.”

“No, wait a minute. You told me you’re stopping me for speeding,” he said. “That’s not an offense this guy could have been involved in. He’s two blocks from where he needs to go and he needs to get there. So you give me my ticket for speeding, but he gets out of the car and goes!” The officer wasn’t prepared for such a challenge. He stood by the door, silent. “Just get out of the car,” Trebbien told his mentee. He watched Cameron slowly exit the car with his hands clearly in view before quickly walking down 72nd Street towards the mall. Later Cameron told Trebbien he was becoming aware of how things really are. “I’d have thought in the past, why don’t people just listen to what the police officer says and do it,” Trebbien said. “[This time] I kept thinking if that was my youngest son and I said my son is going to walk down the street, he would have said go. I don’t know that for a fact, but my past experiences in life lead me to believe that.” These days Trebbien doesn’t have much contact with Cameron, but his young mentee’s influence was prevalent. Trebbien’s resolve to openly discuss issues about race continues to parallel a strong desire to see Black Americans treated fairly in the country he loves. “My testimony about race opened my eyes,” he said. “There are lot of white people that came to America from around the world and worked their butts off here…and got ahead. But I toured a plantation two times and looked at how slaves lived and heard people tell stories of what slavery involved. I think they had to work as hard as, or harder than, any other immigrant and got nothing out of the deal.” Trebbien’s books can be purchased from Amazon.

Hip, Hip, Burray!

// OBVIOUSLY OMAHA // STORY BY LINDA PERSIGEHL DESIGN BY MATT WIECZOREK

SOFT CHEESE BECOMES FUN FOOD FAD

URRATA IS NO NEWCOMER TO FINE DINING ESTABLISHMENTS, BUT IT IS HAVING A MOMENT. Eateries all over Omaha have added the delicious, creamy appetizer—a mozzarella cheese shell made of cow or buffalo milk, filled with a soft stracciatella cheese and cream created more than a century ago in the Apulia region of southern Italy—to their appetizer menus, with variations on presentation, condiments, accoutrements, and portion size. Here are a few Omaha establishments where you can sample this trendy, tasty treat.

GATHER IN OMAHA

1108 Howard St. gather-omaha.com

Guests at Gather in Omaha downtown can enjoy their Mediterranean burrata cheese served with grilled turmeric naan, a mediterranean salad, fig jam, and Gather’s own urban farm basil hummus. $15

VIA FARINA

1108 S. 10th St. viafarina.rest

Located in Omaha’s Little Italy District, Via Farina seems the perfect place to try burrata for the first time. Their traditional version is served with olive oil, Italian bread, and ’nduja—a spicy paste made from cured pork and peppers. $16

SADDLE CREEK BREAKFAST CLUB

1540 N. Saddle Creek Road facebook.com/SCBCOmaha

A different, fruity take is SCBC’s burrata, listed on its Toast menu. The cheese is served with fresh rustic bread from Le Quartier Bakery and a slightly tart strawberry rhubarb jam. $11

STIRNELLA

3814 Farnam St. stirnella.com Blackstone eatery Stirnella serves their burrata with a host of flavors and textures, including with roasted grapes, aged balsamic, brown butter walnut puree, arugula greens, and peasant bread. $16

PITCH PIZZERIA

17808 Burke St. 5021 Underwood Ave. pitchpizzeria.com Pitch’s locations in Dundee and Village Pointe both feature a Caprese salad on their menu, with burrata, heirloom cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and a balsamic reduction. Patrons can add a form of protein—a meatball, chicken, salmon, shrimp, crab cakes, or even Angus beef filet—if they wish for a few dollars more for a complete meal. $16, or $19-$30 with protein.

UPSTREAM

514 S. 11th St. upstreambrewing.com Upstream Brewery in Omaha’s Old Market serves a savory burrata with olive tapenade, long stem artichokes, oregano vinaigrette, and toasted sourdough bread. It’s the perfect sidekick to a locally crafted brew. $15

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BRANDON DAVIS MAKES SOUL FOOD. MORE THAN THAT, THE YOUNG CHEF/ ENTREPRENEUR/ RESTAURANTOWNER WITH DEEP TIES TO HIS NORTH OMAHA NEIGHBORHOOD AND HIS CITY IS SOUL FOOD.

DINING FEATURE // Story by Chris Hatch Photography by Bill Sitzmann // Design by Matt Wieczorek

Shug's Comfort Food Welcomes All

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DINING FEATURE

“I

n the history of being Black people, that’s predominantly what we eat, that’s what I enjoy,” Davis said at his restaurant, after he briefly appears from the kitchen, where he’s doing what a multi-hyphenate does: a little bit of everything.

“I try all different kinds of food, but I found out that soul food is what I love to do,” Davis said. “You can do so many spins on it, put whatever you love in it. Any food, I guess, can be soul food if you’re putting love and time into it.” “Any food can be soul food”? That depends on the soul making the food. Davis certainly seems to have the key ingredient down. Somewhere along the way, before he made his mark at the corner of West Mission Avenue and Jefferson Street in Old Towne Bellevue, he found the kind of flavoring that one can't find on a spice rack; the kind of seasoning that doesn't come canned or bottled, but feels lived in. Whether it was his short-lived stint at Metropolitan Community College's culinary school or the myriad jobs he worked before finding deliciously spiced clarity, it’s the food. Those prior jobs were merely a collection of non-food-industry occupations—it’s always been the food. The oldest of seven kids, a younger version of Davis often found himself in the kitchen, watching his mother, the eponymous Shug, create that gilded magic that has entranced him ever since. “Watching her trial and error, she was always the person cooking in our family. Holidays, special events.” Even though she passed away more than 11 years ago, the matriarch has somehow managed to flip the script, and now she watches her son do the cooking. With a smile as warm as the gleaming plate of food that she holds, Davis’ mother looks down from the wall—her painted throne on high, as present in the décor as she is in the very food served at the restaurant that bears her name.

and having my friends over eating and I was like, ‘Ummm…I might need to start charging y’all!’ One thing led to another, people were posting on Facebook. A lot of people were hungry.” It wasn’t only family that was instrumental in his journey to restaurant owner and soul food chef. His five years at Quick Bites Soul Food, under the kitchen tutelage of the recently deceased Justin Epting, the former owner of the restaurant that resided where Shug’s now serves people, had a profound impact on him. “Justin, he kind of mentored me,” Davis said. “Taught me a lot of things you don’t learn in school, a lot of things I didn’t know about cooking.” “The first time we met Brandon, he came to the restaurant and he brought us both enchiladas that he made,” said Epting’s widow and coworker at Quick Bites, Carolyn Epting. “That was pretty much his job interview and he was hired right then.” Davis always had a knack for tantalizing the five senses with his cooking, but began to learn from Epting about how exactly to craft food that opened customers to a sixth sense. A kind of alchemy where people don’t just taste the food created, they feel it. “Our saying in the South is that he ‘Put his foot in it,’” Carolyn said. “That’s the type of cook he is, he puts his whole heart into whatever he does. He’s a natural at putting seasonings together... that’s the kind of cook Justin was, too, so it was perfect that those two worked together.” After Epting died, the end of Quick Bites appeared imminent. Davis had a decision to make—stay with Epting’s restaurant or let it close. He took the crossroads laid before him, and chose to give it his own twist. Suddenly, the two paths converged before him, looking more like an X marking the spot.

over-pouring of support. Some Fridays and Saturdays we have lines around the side of the building,” he said. “I literally get here at 6 to 6:30 in the morning and don’t leave until 9 at night.” Throughout it all, the family spirit hasn’t left him. Davis has seen his restaurant take off, making sure to point out that he’s teaching his younger siblings how to cook, and watching glowingly as his grandma—a woman who has her own name on the menu, featuring her legendary sweet potato pies—tidies up around the restaurant in a most grandmotherly way. “The thing about him is, he lost his mom at 18, right when he was about to graduate,” Epting said. “She passed away, and he has made sure his little brothers have been taken care of.” “I watched him grow, make little mistakes here and there, I watched all of it, and he’s just an awesome man.” she continued. “I’m so proud of him. I know his mom is proud, I’m definitely proud, and I know Justin is proud. Couldn’t ask for a better person doing the job that he’s doing and being part of a community, doing something that he loves, carrying on what my husband started.” Davis isn’t sure what the future holds. He’s got people to feed, food to create, and the local community clamoring for more. “I wasn’t looking for a certain demographic, or anything. I want to fill everyone’s stomachs and make everybody happy,” he said. “So far, that’s what I’m doing. I get so many people from different walks of life, different cultures. Everybody comes, the people that have never had soul food—they’ve never had greens or they’ve never had this or that—and it puts a smile on my face.” Davis’ grandma, Cathy, sweeps her way toward the table at which Davis sits. She leans over, with her daughter above and her grandson seated beneath her, smiling so big that one can see her grin from behind a surgical mask as she softly speaks.

“Hopefully she’s very, very proud,” Davis said. “It’s been a long road for me, coming from all over the place. Being a young teenager who lost their parent but growing up to have my own restaurant. To having the support of my family, my siblings, things like that. It would make her very proud.”

“He ended up passing away and I was like, ‘Well let me go ahead and take this over.’ I had been here from the start, I had seen it grow, and I just kind of hated seeing it go by the wayside,” Davis said. “I had to kind of get my stuff together and say ‘this is what I’m going to do.’”

“Can I interject something?” she asked. “All the paintings. All this stuff,” she gestured to the homey, warm décor and the pictures of African American leaders who adorn the walls of a new generation’s restaurant.

As he continued to hone his craft, he quickly discovered that his food was too good to give away for free. So, the young chef started cooking for cash.

He put his foot in the food, then he put one foot in front of the other. Before long, Davis had a plan.

“This was Brandon’s work,” she said, her voice as warm as her grandson’s cooking. “This is Brandon’s dream.”

“I used to cook at home. Just make stuff out of the house,” he said, grinning with a sly entrepreneurial spirit. “I was always cooking on Sundays // 80 //

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“It can be very, very overwhelming. Especially with it being my first restaurant, first time doing this. I knew it would do good, because I can cook good. But I didn’t expect the

Visit facebook.com/shugscomfortfood to learn more.

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WITH A SMILE AS WARM AS THE GLEAMING PLATE OF FOOD THAT SHE HOLDS, DAVIS’ MOTHER LOOKS DOWN FROM THE WALL—HER PAINTED PERCH ON HIGH, AS PRESENT IN THE DÉCOR AS SHE IS IN THE VERY FOOD SERVED AT THE RESTAURANT THAT BEARS HER NAME. JUNE 2022

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Chef John Rea Drafts His Own Path

Building a Craft

Chef Profile STORY dave zorko

PHOTOGRAPHY bill sitzmann DESIGN matt wieczorek

ohn Rea was going to be an architect, seeking to create structure and visual presentation in buildings. However, as Rea reached the end of high school he realized the storied profession wasn't for him, and instead found himself rather lost, not knowing where he wanted his life to go. He realized his dreams didn’t involve sitting behind a desk all day.

Rea didn’t want to “hemorrhage money at a college just because that’s what you’re supposed to do after high school.” That’s where his guidance counselor, Tom Barber, was helpful. Rea recalled Barber saying, “Have you thought about culinary school?” He placed in Rea’s hand a packet to Le Cordon Bleu in Minneapolis and told him, “Go be a chef.” Rea took that suggestion, applied, and was accepted. Unfortunately Rea assumed, incorrectly, that he would receive financial aid after succeeding in running the gauntlet of the application process. No monetary assistance meant a job at Domino’s pizza would need to pay the bills. Rea said he was one of two recent high school graduates out of roughly 50 students in his group at culinary school. The rest ranged in age and paths. Unconsciously, or actively, Rea realized he “[couldn’t] be like the nervous small town kid. I kinda [had] to come out of my shell a little bit, otherwise [I was] going to pass up a lot of opportunities to learn.” After culinary school and several early jobs, including working with a tightly bonded group of chefs, Rea took a position in the clubhouse at the Field Club of Omaha. He received money, benefits, and responsibility, but lacked the ability to create, change, and grow. In early 2010, Rea was introduced to the owners of M’s Pub, and, as Rea puts it, “that’s kind of when everything changed. That was when most of my growth happened…on the professional side—on the cook side—on learning the admin. side of things…learning how to manage a staff.” The M’s staff included industry veterans, some with more than 20 years of tenure. That level of experience within the staff put Rea into an environment where, he said,

he was part of an “absolute machine.” The people there knew their role, job, and what they were supposed to do, and he learned to “manage around that.” Included among the staff was general manager Jay Bock. Rea told me that Bock was “this larger than life person. He knew everything about the place.” Bock asked Rea about his goals, to which Rea said he “want[ed] to eventually be able to run M’s Pub without needing the safety net of…the executive chef [or Bock].” Rea expressed his desire to be an executive chef and that he intended the role at M’s to be the last milestone prior to becoming that executive chef. Through Bock, he learned the ordering system and added leadership skills in organization and communication. The training occurred in a couple of whirlwind weeks. The intent was to allow Rea to perform a trial run as head chef while Bock was at the 2010 Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. The trial run soon turned into trial by fire. Bock was one of four people killed in a much-publicized motorcycle accident on the return trip from Sturgis. Rea went from being anxious for the leader’s return to assuming that leader's position. He stayed in the role until January 2016, when an explosion, brought on by a gas leak, destroyed M’s Pub. Following the nearly two-year closure of M’s Pub, Rea worked at Paragon for about a year, then Mula for a few months. He enjoyed cooking the tacos, tortas, and other Mexican street foods served at Mula, but it was not his passion. Jeremy Hunter was an M’s bartender who worked with Rea at M’s and events such as Too Many Cooks in the Kitchen. Hunter had moved on to Via Farina and found out, through talking with co-owner Paul Kulik in 2017, that Rea had been hired there.

“John’s food is absolutely amazing and his palate is spot on,” Hunter stated, continuing, “John is calm [and] explains why he does [what he is doing].” Rea has been at Via Farina ever since, working with handmade pasta and sourdough wood fired pizza, which were new dishes to him. Rea is driven to learn, grow, and help others succeed. He has seen people who were his sous chefs become leaders in their own right, such as Oscar Hernandez of 402 Eat + Drink. His daughter, Charlie, who was born shortly after the M’s fire in 2016, shares this passion for food. Other children might know how to make a peanut butter sandwich, but Rea said his daughter is “the only kindergartner [making] arancini.” Rea’s learning, teaching, designing, and constructing results in beautifully presented food. Perhaps he is an architect. Visit viafarina.rest for more information.

REA IS DRIVEN TO LEARN, GROW, AND HELP OTHERS SUCCEED. HE HAS SEEN PEOPLE WHO WERE HIS SOUS CHEFS BECOME LEADERS IN THEIR OWN RIGHT.

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Crab Rangoon Tots

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY MATT WIECZOREK

DINING REVIEW

An Exciting

Culinary Area Code Story by Tamsen Butler

[

402 Eat+Drink

Offers Craft Drinks, Global-Inspired Food

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]

One friend ordered the flat iron steak and was tickled to find the meat so tender she could cut it with her butter knife.

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DINING REVIEW

ucked into the Village Pointe storefronts on Davenport Street is 402 Eat+Drink, a restaurant offering a diverse menu of their interpretation of global foods. I recently dined there with friends.

A prominent sign advised guests that, like most restaurants, they were understaffed so please be patient. The hosts seemed a little flustered, but we were seated promptly thanks to our reservation and quickly greeted by our server, Patrick. The menu is indeed diverse, offering flatbread, salads, sandwiches, and entrees like Creole Salmon Pasta, Korean Stir Fry, and a Braised Short Rib. My friend ordered an Old Fashioned and declared that the restaurant wasn’t stingy with the alcohol. Her husband drank a strawberry lemonade, which he said was not too sweet. He frequently encounters strawberry lemonades that he believes are too sweet. Everyone enjoyed eating the Crab Rangoon tots we ordered as an appetizer, although there seemed to be some variation in each piece. My husband said his had ample crab Rangoon filling while my tot was basically a big tater tot with some sweet and sour sauce drizzled over it and a couple of wonton strips. Regardless, it was tasty. We also ordered the fried pickles and were delighted by the portion size; it was a heaping plate of fried dill pickle chips with a homemade ranch sauce that was more than enough for the four of us. A good number of the pieces were just fried breading, with no pickles inside. We saw another plate of fried pickles pass our table a few minutes later that seemed to feature plumper fried pickles. Perhaps we received the bottom layer of a batch. My friends asked if they could split a wedge salad. The answer was yes, and it was delivered on two separate plates, each featuring an impressive presentation. We expected to have the salad appear at the table on one plate, perhaps sliced down the middle with extra plates.

Steak + Fries (a new menu item)

One friend ordered the flat iron steak and was tickled to find the meat so tender she could cut it with her butter knife. She also praised the accompanying potatoes and said she really enjoyed the bordelaise sauce.

DINING REVIEW

Reuben and fries

y husband made the bold proclamation that the 402 Reuben he ordered was the best Reuben he’s ever eaten. He said the cabbage had a delicious flavor as though it had been marinated beforehand, yet still retained its crispiness.

My friend’s husband ordered the birria torta dip and traded one piece for a piece of the Reuben. While he enjoyed the birria and said the spices were tasty, the Reuben caught his attention. “Sometimes you have to fight corned beef, but this is really tender and good,” he said. This is the same man who has exacting strawberry lemonade standards. My tofu burger featured a sweet, slightly smoky barbecue sauce and a patty that was reminiscent of falafel. The ciabatta bread

tasted fresh and the arugula was the perfect complement to the sandwich. The accompanying French fries were crispy and nicely flavored in a reasonable portion. My husband and I split the roasted apple cheesecake for dessert, which featured a caramel drizzle and a spiced apple compote for topping. My friends split the creme brulee and remarked how the fresh fruit on top added to the overall flavor. After the meal, when my friends asked for decaf coffee, our server said they would brew some since there wasn’t any ready at that time. We were all impressed by how calm and accommodating our server was despite the obvious crunch of guests throughout the restaurant. We never felt rushed, which is an impressive feat for a busy restaurant.

My husband made the bold proclamation that the 402 Reuben he ordered was the best Reuben he’s ever eaten. // 88 //

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I suggest making a reservation before visiting 402 Eat+Drink, especially on the weekend. You can expect tasty food and good service in a space that somehow manages to look industrial and blatantly colorful. The dichotomy of the interior décor didn’t take away from the overall dining experience, especially since all the food was masterfully plated. 402 Eat+Drink has a children’s menu, too. I think this makes for a great opportunity for families who are at Village Pointe to stop in for a good meal to escape the typical fast-food trap of shopping with children. The bill, before tip, was $56.68. This restaurant will be added to my list of good options at Village Pointe. The food is good, the menu is varied—and the staff is exceptional. Visit eat402.com for more information.

402 EAT+DRIN K 7305 DAVENPORT ST. - 402.619.5474 FOO D S ERVICE AM BIAN CE PRICE OVERALL

$$$ 5 STARS POSSI B LE

Mango coconut cheesecake

- Sponsored Content -

Omaha

- SPONSOR ED CONTENT -

DINING GUIDE AMERICAN BARREL & VINE- $$ 1311 South 203rd St., Omaha, NE 68130 -402.504.1777 Barrel and Vine’s restaurant is an elevated food experience that is made from scratch daily with love in our kitchen. Our menu combines a mixture of Chef driven creative dishes, crave-able comfort meals and premium Nebraska steaks. Barrel & Vine also doubles as a live music venue and offers a rooftop bar, outdoor patio with firepits, and dozens of high end bourbons, scotch, and over 100 wine selections. Come check out an experience that is like nothing else in Nebraska. Open 7 days a week. —bvomaha.com

DJ’S DUGOUT SPORTS BAR - $ Seven Metro Area Locations:

Bellevue - 10308 S. 23rd St. - 402.292.9096 Miracle Hills - 777 N. 114th St. - 402.498.8855 Downtown - 1003 Capitol Ave. - 402.763.9974 Aksarben - 2102 S. 67th St. - 402.933.3533 Millard - 17666 Welch Plaza - 402.933.8844 Elkhorn - 19020 Evans St. - 402.315.1985 Plattsmouth - 2405 Oak Hill Rd. - 402.298.4166 Voted Omaha’s #1 Sports Bar, DJ’s Dugout is locally and Vietnam Veteran owned. DJ’s Dugout features delicious burgers, wings, wraps, salads, sandwiches and an impressive drink menu. Plus, DJ’s has huge media walls full of HD TVs and projector screens. Catch all the action at DJ’s seven Omaha-area locations. Dig In... At The Dugout! —djsdugout.com

JAMS- $$ 7814 Dodge St. - 402.399.8300 17070 Wright Plz, Ste. 100 - 402.810.9600 1101 Harney St. in the OldMarket - 402.614.9333 Jams is an Omaha restaurant legacy, an “American Grill” that offers a melting pot of different styles and varieties. The dishes are made with high-quality ingredients that pair well with award-winning wines or creative cocktails. —jamseats.com

DJ’S DUGOUT is locally and Vietnam Veteran LE PEEP - $ 69th & Pacific - 402.933.2776 177th and Center St. - 402.934.9914 156th St. & W. Dodge Rd. - 402.408.1728 120th and Blondo St. - 402.991.8222 Le Peep puts a wholesome perspective on your favorite neighborhood breakfast and lunch spot. Fresh. Simple. Elegant. Inviting. We put the emphasis on people, both patrons and staff. We focus on providing each of our guests the fresh food and friendly service that they have come to expect. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m. —lepeepomaha.com

STELLA’S - $ 106 S. Galvin Road, Bellevue - 402.291.6088 Since 1936, we’ve been making our worldfamous Stella’s hamburgers the same way. The family secrets have been handed down to each owner, ensuring that your burger is the same as the one you fell in love with the first time you tried Stella’s. And if it’s your first time, we know you’ll be back! Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., closed Sunday. —stellasbarandgrill.com

$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+

7 OMAHA METRO AREA LOCATIONS | DJSDUGOUT.COM | JUNE 2022

Owned. Since 1993, DJ’s Dugout has been a gathering place for sports fans and families. Today, DJ’s has 7 Omaha metro area locations and is famous for providing an ultimate sports bar experience with its delicious food and massive media display walls. The food at DJ’s is absolutely delicious! You’ll find a menu packed full of variety that includes “Fresh… Never Frozen” half pound premium Angus beef burgers, wings, nachos, sandwiches and so much more. DJ’s also has party rooms available, perfect for groups, business meetings, and celebrations. Voted Omaha’s #1 Sports Bar. Dig In… at the Dugout!

DINING GUIDE LEGEND

WELCOME BASEBALL FANS!

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OMAHA’S ICONIC SPORTS BAR!

DJSDUGOUT.COM

Omaha

DINING GUIDE TED AND WALLY’S - $ 1120 Jackson St. - 402.341.5827

Get a Little Saucy.

Appetizers

CHANGE 2022 Winner

yH Happ our

an Dining Itali

2022 Winner

SPEZIA SPECIALTIES

WOOD FIRE STEAKS & SEAFOOD INNOVATIVE PASTA—RISOTTO—GNOCCHI FRESH SALMON DAILY

Open 7 Days a Week for Lunch & Dinner

NOW HIRING

APPLY IN PERSON Catering

Take Out & Patio Dining Available!

. Private Party Rooms . Walk-Ins Welcome 3125 South 72 nd Street

(Easy access off I-80, take 72

Street Exit)

402.391.2950 . Call today to make your reservation

Hamburger

thanks to our customers for voting us the “BEST BURGER

IN OMAHA 2022 First Place

“Serving World Famous Hamburgers Since 1936”

106 GALVIN RD., BELLEVUE, NE • 402-291-6088 • OPEN MONDAY - SATURDAY, 11 AM - 9 PM

Come experience the true taste of homemade ice cream in the Old Market. Since 1986, we’ve created gourmet ice cream flavors in small batches using rock salt and ice. We offer your favorites, plus unique flavors like margarita, green tea, Guinness, and French toast. Special orders available. Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.- Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday. Noon-10 p.m. —tedandwallys.com

VARSITY SPORTS CAFE - $$ Ralston - 9735 Q St. - 402.339.1944 Bellevue - 3504 Samson Way - 402.932.1944 Millard - 14529 F St. - 402.505.6660 Ralston, Bellevue, Millard and Dundee. We are truly grateful to have been welcomed into each of these communities and welcome you in for good food, a cold drink and a comfy seat to enjoy the sport of your choosing! Determined to bring only the freshest ingredients, homemade dough and our specialty sauces to the table, we have worked hard to perfect our craft for you. Our goal is to bring the best food service to the area and show the best sports events that you want to see. Pick up and Delivery availalble. Please check website for hours of operation. —varsityromancoinpizza.com

I TA L I A N LO SOLE MIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO - $$ 3001 S. 32nd Ave. - 402.345.5656 The restaurant is located in a residential neighborhood, surrounded by charming homes. Everyone is greeted with homemade bread, a bowl of fresh tomatoes and basil, a bowl of ovenroasted garlic cloves, specially seasoned olive oil, and (at night) a jug of Chianti! The menu includes a large variety of pasta, chicken, veal, seafood, and even a delicious New York steak. Traditional dishes such as lasagna, tortellini, and eggplant parmigiana are also available. Lunch offerings include panini, salads, and one of the best pizzas in town. Patio seating, full bar, and a great wine list complete the atmosphere. No reservations, except for private rooms. —losolemio.com

DINING GUIDE LEGEND

$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+

JUNE 2022

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Nacho Typical Family Restaurant! xican Dining Me

ichanga Chim

2022 Winner

4 METRO LOCATIONS! www.romeosOMAHA.com

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JUNE 2022

Omaha

DINING GUIDE Breakfast

day Brunch Sun

Staff & Servi ce ait W

2022 Winner

2022 First Place

156th & Dodge • 408-1728 177th & Center • 934-9914 120th & Blondo • 991-8222 69th & Pacific • 933-2776

Thanks for Voting Us # BREAKFAST YEARS in a Row!

Drive-Thru Open (Center St. Only) Open Daily 6:30am-2:00pm Serving Breakfast & Lunch All Day!

LEPEEPOMAHA.COM | @LEPEEPOMAHA

Two Locations: 2505 S. 133rd Plaza 531-213-2724 HOURS: 7AM-6PM

2504 Farnam St. 402-452-3085 HOURS: 7AM-6PM

PASTA AMORE - $$ 11027 Prairie Brook Rd. - 402.391.2585 Pastas are made fresh daily, including tortellini, fettuccine, and capellini. Daily specials and menu items include a variety of fresh seafood and regional Italian dishes, such as linguini amore and calamari steak, penne Florentine, gnocchi, spaghetti puttanesca, and osso buco. Filet mignon is also offered for those who appreciate nationally renowned Nebraska beef. To complement your dining experience, the restaurant offers a full bar and extensive wine list. Be sure to leave room for homemade desserts, like the tiramisu and cannoli. Monday-Thursday 9 p.m. and Friday-Saturday 10 p.m. Reservations recommended. —pastaamore.com

SPEZIA - $$$ 3125 S. 72nd St. - 402.391.2950 Choose Spezia for lunch or dinner, where you’ll find a casual elegance that’s perfect for business guests, get-togethers, or any special occasion. Exceptional food, wine, and service, with a delectable menu: fresh seafood, certified Angus steaks, innovative pasta, risotto, gnocchi, cioppino, lamb, entrée salads, Mediterranean chicken, flatbreads, and fresh salmon daily. Enjoy a full bar, Italian and California wines, Anniversary/Lovers’ Booth (call to reserve), private dining rooms, and wood-fired grill. Open MondaySunday. Cocktail hour 4-6 p.m., when all cocktails, glasses of wine, and beers are half price. Evening reservations recommended. —speziarestaurant.com

MEXICAN FERNANDO’S - $ 7555 Pacific St. - 402.339.8006. 380 N. 114th St. - 402.330.5707 Featuring Sonoran-style cooking made fresh daily. Catering and party rooms also available. Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 4-9 p.m. —fernandosomaha.com

Order Online zencoffeecompany.com

DINING GUIDE LEGEND

$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+

JUNE 2022

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Omaha

DINING GUIDE

MODERN COCKTAILS MIXED WITH AMERICA’S MUSIC

3825 N. 30 TH ST., OMAHA, NE @JOHNNYTSBARANDBLUES

n Sandwi ube ch Re

2022 First Place

Try Omaha’s Favorite Reuben! Omaha’s largest selection of craft beers.

3578 Farnam St • 402-345-1708 www.beercornerusa.com

LA MESA - $$ 158th St. and W. Maple Rd. - 402.557.6130 156th and Q streets - 402.763.2555 110th St. and W. Maple Rd. - 402.496.1101 Fort Crook Rd. and Hwy 370 - 402.733.8754 84th St. and Tara Plaza - 402.593.0983 Lake Manawa Exit - 712.256.2762 Enjoy awesome enchiladas, fabulous fajitas, seafood specialties, mouthwatering margaritas, and more at La Mesa. Come see why La Mesa has been voted Omaha’s No. 1 Mexican restaurant 18 years in a row. Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m. —lamesaomaha.com

ROMEO’S MEXICAN FOOD AND PIZZA - $ 90th and Blondo streets - 402.391.8870 146th St. and W. Center Rd. - 402.330.4160 96th and L streets - 402.331.5656 Galvin and Avery roads - 402.292.2028 29th and Farnam steets - 402.346.1110 Romeo’s is your friendly, family Mexican food and pizza restaurant. We take real pride in serving our guests generous portions of the freshest, most flavorful dishes made

ek Dining Gre

2022 First Place

Family Owned Since 1983 CATERING / PARTY ROOM AVAILABLE HOMEMADE, FRESH FOOD, ALWAYS.

3821 Center St. / 402.346.1528 GreekIslandsOmaha.com

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with the finest ingredients available. Zesty seasonings and the freshest ingredients combine to ensure the ultimate in flavor. Our savory taco meat is prepared every morning at each location. Make sure to try our chimichangas; they’re the best in town. —romeosomaha.com

SPECIAL DINING CRESCENT MOON ALE HOUSE - $ 3578 Farnam St. - 402.345.1708 Founded in 1996, we’ve grown into Beer Corner USA with the additions of The Huber Haus German Beer Hall, Max and Joe’s Belgian Beer Tavern, and Beertopia—Omaha’s Ultimate Beer Store. With more than 60 beers on tap and Omaha’s best Reuben sandwich, we are a Midtown beerlover’s destination. Hours: MondaySaturday 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Kitchen hours: Monday-Wednesday 11 a.m.-1 p.m., Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-midnight. Closed Sunday. —beercornerusa.co

RATHSKELLER BIER HAUS-$$ 4524 Farnam St. - 402.991.7724 Rathskeller Bier Haus celebrates daily with German beer, wurst and many other menu items. Within arm’s reach of the Blackstone District and historic Dundee. Rathskeller Bier Haus is our German castle and designed to bring the storied traditions of Bavaria to the beating heart of Omaha’s metro area. Come enjoy our large outdoor beer garden and four legged friends are welcome. Prost! Open daily 11 a.m.-Late. —rathskelleromaha.com

GREEK ISLANDS - $ 3821 Center St. - 402.346.1528 Greek cuisine with specials every day at reasonable prices. We are well-known for our gyro sandwiches and salads. We cater and can accommodate a party for 65 guests. Carry-out and delivery available. Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-7 p.m. —greekislandsomaha.com

DINING GUIDE LEGEND

$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+

Omaha

DINING GUIDE STEAKHOUSES CASCIO’S - $$ 1620 S. 10th St. - 402-345-8313 Fascio’s is Omaha’s No. 1 steakhouse. We have been serving Omaha for 69 years. We feature steaks, chops, seafood, and Italian specialties. We have seven private party rooms, seating for up to 400 people, and plenty of parking. —casciossteakhouse.com

THE DROVER RESTAURANT & LOUNGE - $$$ 2121 S. 73rd St. - 402-391-7440 Famous for the original Whiskey Steak. Truly a one-of-a-kind Midwestern experience. Excellent food, wine, service, and value. Rare...and very well done. Open Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Dinner nightly at 5 p.m.; Special Hours: June 17June 27 Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Saturday-Sunday 4 p.m.-10:30 p.m. —droverrestaurant.com

Home of the Whiskey Steak

@The Drover Restaurant & Lounge | Gift Cards Available 2121 S. 73 St. | (402) 391-7440 | DroverRestaurant.com Open Mon - Fri 11:00am - 10:30pm | Dinner nightly from 5pm h Steak ouse

2022 First Place

WELCOME BASEBALL FANS Special Hours

June 17 - June 27

Mon-Fri 11:00am - 10:30pm, Sat-Sun 4:00pm - 10:30pm

JUNE 2022

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explore.

come and

LE T’S PLAN A ROAD TRIP!

DAYTRI PS I N NE BRA SK A , I OW A , K AN SA S, AN D M I SSOURI

RENT June 9-26 at the Tada Theater in the Historic Haymarket District in Lincoln The Tony Award and Pulitzer

NEBRASKA

NEBRASKA ROD AND CUSTOMS ASSOCIATION’S “TOUR NEBRASKA 22” June 3-5 in North

Prize-winning theatrical sensation comes to Lincoln’s Tada Theater. The musical traces a year in the lives of an eclectic group of artists and friends in their JUNE efforts to stay true to their dreams under in the face of harsh realities, and the sacrifice necessary when choosing love over fear. 402.438.8232 —tadaproductions.info

Platte Vintage vehicles and hot rod

classics go on parade, covering 600 miles over two days, starting in North Platte, with a themed celebration held Saturday night. —nrca.wildapricot.org

27TH ANNUAL DOG DAYS OF SUMMER BIKE SHOW June 4 in Steele City

Midwestern bikers show off their choppers, hogs, and scramblers in MYSTERY AT THE MANSION June JUNE Steele City’s annual ode to all things 4 and 11 in Nebraska City The motorcycles with competitions, Arbor Lodge Mansion hosts two food, and entertainment throughout nautical nights of “murder and the weekend. For those looking to be a mayhem,” with plundering afoot in part of the show, registration is “ride in” Murder Among Mateys June 4 and from 11a.m.-1 p.m. Saturday. 402.442.2233 luxury meeting homicide on the high seas in —visitnebraska.com/steele-city/events/ Cruising for Murder June 11. 800.546.5433 steele-city-bike-show-ride —nebraskacity.com

MAKIT MARKET June 5 at the Makit Takit Craft

Studio in Lincoln Over 25 vendors exhibit their

local, handmade wares including gifts, food, jewelry, clothing and more at Makit Takit: Lincoln’s Craft Studio. Entry is free. 402.483.4232 —makittakit.com

FORT MARKET June 11 at Fort Robinson

State Park in Crawford A multitude

of vendors bring arts, crafts, and other unique items to Crawford’s more than a century-year-old Fort Robinson State Park with live music and other activities for

BEING OUTDOORS IN LINCOLN IS PRETTY TOUGH TO BEAT. Whether it’s soaking

in a live music event, navigating over 130 miles of walking and biking trails or just enjoying time with friends and family, Lincoln delivers on summertime fun. In the middle of it all, come enjoy Lincoln this summer! —Lincoln.org/omahamag SPONSORED

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JUNE 2022

attendees to enjoy. Entry is free, but vehicles require a park entry permit. 402.471.0641 —visitnebraska.com/crawford/events/ fort-market

JACK WHITE WITH THE DEVION LAMAR ORGAN TRIO June 12 at

the Pinewood Bowl Theater in Lincoln Alt-rock titan Jack White

graces Lincoln’s Pinewood Bowl Theater with special guests the Devion Lamar Organ Trio. The White Stripes and Raconteurs frontman will set the stage alight with his unique blend of bluesy, galvanic purling and high-octane riffs, with new hit single “Taking Me Back” sure to electrify concert-goers. 402.904.4444 —pinewoodbowltheater.com

NEBRASKALAND DAYS FEATURING TIM MCGRAW AND MIRANDA LAMBERT June

12-25 in North Platte Organized by the

Nebraska Games and Parks Commission and billed as “the official state celebration of Nebraska!” NEBRASKAland days kicks off with the Miss Rodeo Nebraska Pageant June 12-15, the Buffalo Bill Rodeo June 15-18, Nebraska Craft Beer at Taps and Tunes June 23, and headliner performances by country stars Tim McGraw on June 24 and Mirdana Lambert on June 25. 888.313.5606 —nebraskalanddays.com

SWEDISH DAYS 2022 June 17-18 in Holdrege This festival is a weekend

of fika, Swedish meatballs, and live music in Holdrege at the town’s annual Swedish Days event with a “Grand Parade” taking place Saturday morning. A beer garden serviced by JB’s Sports Bar & Grill will keep the poslka dancing going until midnight Friday. 308.995.4444 —holdregechamber.com

! h g o g n h va

s a e l

Uncover the unforgettable Beyond Van Gogh: The Immersive Experience at the Mid-America Center, unleash the beat at Stir Concert Cove, and browse our unbelievable gallery at the Hoff Family Arts & Culture Center.

UNleashCB.com

E XPLORE CAL E NDAR

29TH ANNUAL TESTICLE FESTIVAL June 18 at Round the Bend Steakhouse in Ashland Attendees will have a ball

Great things for the whole family, and Mom too!

Gems

•

Conveniently located just off the interstate

Minerals

•

Fossils

•

Jewelry

8487 Frederick St. | CustomGemsOmaha.com | 402-397-9606

(or two) at Round the Bend Steakhouse’s time-honored annual Testicle Festival over Father’s Day weekend, though more traditional dining options like cheeseburgers and chicken strips are available for those not interested in the signature “Bull Fries.” The marquee Ball Eating Contest is rounded out with live music by the DJ Jake & Sheila Greenland Band. $10 entry (free with military I.D.). 402.944.9974 —roundthebendsteakhouse.com/festival

LINCOLN DRAG BRUNCH June 19 at Longwell’s in Lincoln The Historic

Haymarket’s Longwell’s bar and grill hosts this event in commemoration of Pride Month, where drag royalty take “Eleganza Extravaganza” to new JUNE heights over mimosas and Bloody Marys. 402.904.5283 —nebraskadragbrunch.com

WWE MONDAY NIGHT RAW June 20 at Pinnacle Bank Arena in Lincoln

WWE brings the smackdown for a night of pile-drivers, choke-holds, and high drama as professional wrestling’s stars take center ring. 402.904.4444 —pinnaclebankarena.com

25TH ANNUAL WAHOO COUNTRY MUSIC SHOW June 21-25 in Wahoo The

THERE’S JUST SOMETHING ABOUT YOU IN LINCOLN, NEBRASKA

LI NC O L N . O R G / O MAHA M AG

Fall in love for the first time or fall in love all over again. Lincoln looks good on you!

largest traditional country music festival in Nebraska, the Wahoo Country Music Show promises five days of traditional country, bluegrass, gospel, with guests Fiddlin’ Jake Simpson, Nashville’s Lisa Layne, Jody Nix and the Texas Cowboys, and more. 402.936.0638 —wahoocountrymusicshow.com

MARVERICK RODEO TURN N’ BURN BARREL RACE June 22 at the Lancaster Event

Center in Lincoln Spectators can watch

contestants run blistering clover formations in this dust-kickin’, barrel-roundin’ rodeo spectacle free of charge. 402.441.6545 —lancastereventcenter.org

SANTANA TRIBUTE OYE COMO VA June 24-26 in Brownville Tribute band One

Como Va does legendary artist Santana proud with a full lineup of congas, timbales, drums, bass, guitar, keyboard, and singers. Lead guitarist Marcos Mora strums good vibes and smooth Latin riffs throughout the event. 402.825.3331 —visitnebraska.com/brownville/events/ santana-tribute-oye-como-va

JUNE 2022

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E XPLORE CAL E NDAR

FOURTH ANNUAL SHADY TREE BBQ CONTEST June 25 in Red Oak Chicken,

IOWA

pork spare ribs, pork butt, rib roast will all hit the judge’s table during Red Oak’s Fourth Annual Shady Tree BBQ Contest with samples available for $5 per meat. 712.623.4821 —redoakiowa.com/ event/4th-annual-shady-tree-bbq-contest/

ART AND WRITE NIGHT June 3 at the

Iowa Museum of Natural History in Iowa City Professional, aspiring,

and amateur artists alike gather in the hallowed halls of the University of Iowa’s Museum of Natural History for inspired sketching and scribbling. 319.467.3130 —pentacrestmuseums.uiowa.edu

KANSAS

SCANDINAVIAN DAYS 2022 June 3-4 in Story City With performances by def

ANNUAL CHINGAWASSA DAYS June 3-5 in Marion The sleepy town of Marion

MISSOURI

FESTA ITALIANA June 3-5 in Kansas City

UNICO KC presents Festa Italiana, with live entertainment—including Motori in Piazza (Italian Motorsport Show)—authentic Italian food, beverages, and desserts, historical information booths, and a kid’s zone with bounce houses and other kid-friendly activities. Free admission throughout the weekend. —unicokc.wordpress.com/home-3/ festaitaliana/

springs to action with three days REO SPEEDWAGON AND STYX June of food, drinks, and family fun, 14 at the Starlight Theater in JUNE including a horseshoe pitching Kansas City For the first time in contest, three-on-three basketball, four years '70s rock sensations REO inflatables, “rhino-sized Jenga,” Speedwagon and Styx join forces to and a headliner performance deliver melding hard rock guitar riffs, by Billboard Hot Country Songs enthralling synth percussions, and sigcharting artist Tyler Farr Saturday. nature power ballads outdoors at Kansas —chingawassadays.com City’s historic Starlight Theater. 816.363.7827 —kcstarlight.com

electric, Kenny Frette Band, Fahrenheit, and The Punching Pandas, this year’s slogan of “Better Than 2021 & Way Better Than 2020" is no idle boast, complete with a craft and vendor show on Saturday. 515.733.4214 —storcycitygcc.org/scandivavian-days/

3-5

KINDERFEST June 18 in Manning Family fun awaits in the town of Manning with a 5K road race kicking the event off in City Park at 8 a.m., a BEER FEST 2022 AT STRANG HALL JUNE parade down Main Street at 11 a.m., June 4 in OverlandPark A $60 and a petting zoo, blowup castles, ticket includes four hours of games, prizes, and plenty of food unlimited tasting, live music, endless to round out the day. 712.267.3038 select appetizers, and a tasting cup —manningia.com for regional brewers like Boulevard, KC Bier, FreeState, and Sandhills. Event runs Saturday from 2 -6 p.m., offering words of AMANA COLONIES WURST FESTIVAL encouragement to attendees: “don’t worry, June 18 in Amana Named the “best be hoppy.” —visitkc.com/event-detail/ new event of 2015” by the Iowa Tourism beerfest-strang-hall Commission, the Amana’s Wurst Festival gets bigger and better every year. Handmade, small-batch sausages available FOOD TRUCK FRENZY June 4 in Lenexa accentuated by wine, beer, and live music. Food trucks descend on Old Town Lenexa, The festival promises “the Wurst time offering a variety of local cuisines. Live you could possibly have.” 319.622.7622 music throughout the event with main —amanacolonies.com/event/wurst-festival/ act The Suburbans hitting the stage at 6 p.m. Most vendors accept cards but cash is appreciated. 913. 477.7100 DUCK RACE AND BBQ June 23 on Broad —lenexa.com Street in Story City The feathers fly during Story City’s annual duck race as quacking competitors waddle for SUNFLOWER MUSIC FESTIVAL June 17-25 glory and the checkered flag, starting in Topeka Nine consecutive nights of 6 p.m. Choice cuts will be served from orchestra, chamber ensembles, and 5-7 p.m. during the Broad Street BBQ, jazz fill Washburn University’s White with family-friendly activities planned Concert Hall in Topeka. Sponsored by throughout the evening. 515.733.4214 the National Endowment for the Arts —storycitygcc.org/event/duck-race (among others) this week-and-a-half long symphonic event is free of charge. No dress code enforced. 785 .670.1396 ANNUAL EDGEWOOD PRO RODEO DAYS June 23-26 in Edgewood This four- —sunflowermusicfestival.org day, rootin-tootin’ festival includes three nights of Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association-endorsed rodeos and a demolition derby on Sunday. Festivities include a children’s carnival, a golf tournament, live music, a parade, and plenty of food and beer to go around. 563.928.7036 —edgewoodrodeo.com

BOULEVARDIA June 17-18 in Kansas City

This two-day street festival features craft beer and food samplings (Taps & Taste) with Omaha’s Brickway Brewery a part of the vast lineup of breweries and vendors. The event includes live performances by local, regional, and national acts, along with interactive activities and shopping opportunities. —boulevardia.com

AIN’T TOO PROUD- THE LIFE AND TIMES OF THE TEMPTATIONS June 21-26 at the

Municipal Auditorium Music Hall in Kansas City Written by three-time Obie

Award recipient Dominique Morisseau, and directed by two-time Tony Award winner Des McAnuff, this Broadway hit musical traces the Temptation’s journey from humble beginnings in Detroit to Rock and Roll stardom. Set to classics like “My Girl,” “Just My Imagination,” Get Ready,” and “Papa Was a Rolling Stone,” the performance is sure to electrify long-time Temptation’s fans and theater lovers alike. Ticket prices vary. —kansascitybroadway.com

EVENT TIMES AND DETAILS MAY CHANGE. Visit omahamagazine.com for complete listings. Check with venue or event organizer to confirm.

JUNE 2022

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NOT FUNNY // COLUMN BY OTIS TWELVE // PHOTOGRAPH BY BILL SITZMANN

CAPERS, CILANTRO, AND CRAZY

used to enjoy grocery shopping—remember, back when the country was only half crazy?

I loved the doors that opened automatically with a little hiss, carts that rolled without a wobble, the smell of deli chicken, page announcements for Carl in dairy, and the sound of supermarket Musak that featured the Four Tops followed by Joe Jackson, Herman’s Hermits, Herb Alpert, and Aretha Franklin drifting from the ceiling. I liked running into friends in the produce section. We would exchange greetings while I pretended that I knew how to tell when a cantaloupe was perfectly ripe by poking my thumbnail expertly into the melon at its stem and making that “just so” facial expression that experts make when melons are “just so.” We would then exchange knowing nods, and chat about the weather, which, we would agree, had never ever been so odd—back when we thought the odd weather was just odd weather and years before we found out it was apocalyptic. Those were the good old days. I’d wander the aisles on the lookout for that occasional elderly lady who might need help reaching a jar of capers stocked on the impossibly tall top shelf in the condiment section. And when I discovered her, gazing wistfully upwards at that tragically unreachable necessity—I mean you can’t make Puttanesca without capers—I smiled. There was a small tear of frustration in the corner of her eye, when suddenly out of nowhere, I—a tall mysterious man—would appear to save the day. I would casually retrieve the delicacy from its lofty perch and hand it to the no longer frustrated, but still diminutive, woman with a modest bow and a heartfelt, “you’re welcome.” Then, I would be off towards the soft drink aisle with my squeaky wheeled cart without waiting for any reward other than a grateful smile. Hi ho, Silver, away! I knew the guys behind the meat counter and they knew how much fat to leave on the chops I ordered, because good fat is every good cook’s secret. And they understood that chicken breasts belong on the bone—something that is nearly impossible to find these days. Our whole culture has gone boneless, it seems. All our meat is cut anonymously. And my cardiologist doesn’t appreciate fat like I do. I would banter with the checkout clerk as she rang up my purchases. I’d joke about how much the price of asparagus had increased—this was back before every price increase was treated as evidence of some bit of an evil political conspiracy or litmus test for who you could like or who should be ostracized. You know, back when we knew how to write checks, in cursive. Nowadays, my meals mostly are delivered to my front porch in an insulated cardboard box every Monday. Every meal on the weekly menu is individually bagged within. Each needed ingredient is measured out and ready to be prepped—low-fat and boneless. The instructions are clear and the time apportioned so dinner can be ready on time, every time. It’s the modern way. But I miss, my friends, the tiny ladies, real live butchers, and the checkout lady who verified my personal check with its mysteriously inscribed signature. And I hate the fact that no matter how much I complain, that box on my porch always, always, always includes cilantro and poblano peppers. The world has gone completely mad. Otis Twelve hosts the radio program Morning Classics with Otis Twelve on 90.7 KVNO, weekday mornings from 6-10 a.m. Visit kvno.org for more information.

JUNE

// 104 //

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