Journeys

by C hri s, Indi a and St a n

Journeys with India and [Paki]Stan

This book is dedicated to India and Stan, two animals who became more than that in my lifetime.

They offered unconditional support, friendship, love, greater than I could ever have anticipated or expected from another on this planet. They served to highlight the deficiencies in our human regard for each other.

It is an experience that I would, could, should not have missed in my lifetime.

I am so fortunate . . .

I had never been a massive fan of dogs.

If one licked me I was uncomfortable.

So, that I came to be owned by two who entirely altered my perception of canine life is extraordinary.

On a stay with a friend, Keith, in

Journeys with India and [Paki]Stan

Eland’s Bay he had just taken on Tau, a six-month old German Shepherd. She was a bewitching puppy: alert, intelligent, playful. I said to Keith in an almost flippant way, “I think it is time I had a dog. Where can I find one like Tau?”.

He immediately was on the phone to a breeder in Hout Bay where his puppy was spawned, and yes, the dogs had just had a litter which would be ready in a couple of months. Should I book one? Yes! From hereonin my life took on an unexpected and certainly unplanned aspect.

When the day of reckoning dawned I had arranged with Keith to meet at the dog breeder. There, on a sprawling plot in the valley I met up with India-Jane, as she was about to be christened: a charming little bundle of fur. Her parents were somewhat intimidating, the dog weighing in at around 65kgs and the bitch at around 50. If I had had any previous knowledge this should have been an indication of things to come.

3

I gathered up the little fur heap in my arms and off we set on a magnificent, unchartered journey.

Keith and I had planned to meet for coffee nearby and whilst we chatted about the new addition to my life she sat bundled at my feet beneath the table. On the road home she huddled close to me. In hindsight she must have been incredibly anxious, nervous of being removed from her comfort zone. Her short eight week life had not prepared her for such an abrupt change.

Her first night was spent with a friend, Suzie, who was familiar with dogs and when I collected her the following morning I had a report of a restless night, spent crying. She had obviously been torn from her environment so suddenly and was terribly stressed. I comforted her as best I could and took her home.

Not being prone to soppy I did succumb to the same sentiment: she was adorable, energetic, mischievous. That was until one night I went out and left her ‘home alone’, and returned to find that one of an expensive pair of boots lying around had been entirely demolished.

A short while later, when she had grown just a little, she reinforced a similar

4

India at two months, before she evolved into an unbelievable size.

All ears, legs and feet.

Here she begins to fill the big frame she inherited from her substantial parents.

In her youth India was a gawky animal, struggling to fill the large paws that would later support her enormous frame. Pictured right she was in her mature years to guard the same gate regularly.

Nobody who did not know her and approached the property would assume, from her ferocious barking, that she was an incredible softy who never bit anyone in her entire life.

5

protest by getting on my bed where I had left a nearly century old book, and chewed her way through this precious manuscript.

These acts were beyond my programming and expectations and I learnt very rapidly that she had a dominant way of expressing her dissatisfaction and if I was to retain items of value, and our relationship, they would have to be placed very far out of her prying reach.

We reached an agreement.

Not withstanding these incidents we rapidly developed an accord, and she expressed an interest in travel. So much so that any expedition from the house became a call to action. The merest rustle of keys being lifted, small change collected

Old Cape Highways, printed in 1926. India showed scant regard for the value of this publication and proceeded to tear it apart in a fit of pique.

indicated that a journey was in the offing.

If I started packing for a longer voyage the day before, there was even more of air of anticipation. I would be greeted on rising by an expectant lick!

But first of all I had to contend with the fact I had never had a dog before; painfully naive, I had no idea of how to train one, especially as she was already showing dominant traits. If I was going to keep India in control we would have to go to school, as much for her as me.

6

As a result of her training, India, at the head of the pack, could roam free on a charity walk through the vineyards above Riebeek Kasteel – I was such a proud dad!

We enrolled at a school near Wellington on Sunday afternoons and joined a large throng of enthusiasts. Over a few weeks the chaos became less as the group (people and dogs) began to understand their respective roles. Whilst I did not consider that India was mastered by the end, we had at least defined a technique where she would listen when I asked her to sit, lie, wait . . . It made a massive difference to our relationship and forever after she was complimented for her good behaviour.

Through all this I was concerned that when I was not around, India would be lonely; after all, are canines not pack animals? I put out a few feelers. There was an active NSPCA in the area and ironically a promotional day was in the offing.

I spent some time viewing the sad dogs available on the website, and one lonely creature took my fancy. It is difficult to explain how a life-form on a computer screen can draw one, but one particular dog did. I expressed an interest.

As it would have it I was booked for a trip at that stage and left almost India and her older sister, Tau, at play in a dam.

immediately afterwards. When I returned Anne was on my case, “Was I still interested as the dog’s time had run out. If nobody took

7

him, he would be facing the inevitable�.

I jumped into the car and was on my way to Darling without thinking. At the compound there I was introduced to Stanley, as he became. He was released to meet me. My initial reaction was shock as he had been penned with two Golden Spaniels who had attacked him viciously, leaving him with wounds on his face. I thought the scars were going to be permanent. My sympathy factor was already running high.

When he came to inspect me, his first reaction was to lift his leg and pee on mine. He had marked his territory and the deal was complete.

Stan makes his appearance on a local walk . . .

On the way home he was nervous, whining and was sick a couple of times. The poor guy was incredibly stressed. And this behaviour continued for a short while after.

I wondered if I had done him a favour or did he consider his circumstances not to have improved at all.

But he slowly settled down. India openly welcomed him but to my disappointment he showed no similar consideration. He was to turn out to be a loner, self-sufficient in his own space.

His single driving factor was a ball; or rather, anything that flew through the

8

. . . and subsequent get-togethers.

From a very young age India showed an interest in cats. The fact that three existed in close proximity, which means they lived with us, proved too much at times. But a cordial co-existence prevailed when her curiosity could be contained.

India, and out of character, Stan, intrigued by a couple of lambs which appeared, fearlessly, at our gate on the farm.

I must mention here that India has a character trait where, when she is attracted to another (dog, person, baby(!), horse, in this case zebra, and amazingly lambs), she licks inside the mouth. In my observation it has always been a sign of affection.

Another species that were particularly of India’s interest were horses. The fascination proved, on many occasions, to be mutual.

When a zebra arrived in Riebeek Kasteel it was if the Equus genus had been extended, and she was able to explore further. We met many times subsequently, always with the same affectionate greeting.

9

10

Stan makes his presence felt, with all his enthusiasm for life. Except when nobody wants to throw his ball!

Why, please explain?

India in her element, on the mountain, after perusing a muddy pond, and finding roadkill.

11

air really – a frisbee would do! I only discovered this accidentally one day or he would have had a life devoid of his ultimate pleasure. Even food was not a particular interesting facet of life and subsequent years of nagging ensued to get him to eat. I have always harboured suspicions that he was maltreated around feeding time, leading to his subsequent disposition.

We settled into our years of routine, the daily walks, which if I had any inclination to neglect, was constantly reminded by prodding and wagging tails that this was an essential part of life, an existential feature of our very beings. I came to love these outings.

India, with her training, was always leash free – it took Stan a while longer to comprehend the concept, but once he did we were free to roam the streets of the villages (Riebeek Kasteel and Riebeek west), nearby towns, the mountain. Every single trek was treated with enthusiasm.

Because of this, on the two occasions when India and one for Stan when they contracted tick bite fever it was immediately apparent that something was amiss, so I was able to deal with the issue rapidly, which with this particular India and Stan finally get it together in a farm dam near where we lived.

12

situation, is vital to avoid complications.

Longer journeys were even more cause for a spirited reaction. Packing and preparing the previous evening for some impending trip saw both of the dogs energetically checking and sniffing every procedure. As soon as I stirred the following morning, no matter the hour, they were at the bed – “We’re ready”.

And so we trekked around the countryside: villages, guest farms, camp sites, in fact anywhere pets were accepted we more or less ventured. I came to know the destinations where we would be tolerated and without exception India and Stan demonstrated impeccable manners. We had our particular favourites: • River Magic at Vermaaklikheid • Papkuilsfontein near Nieuwoudtville • Beaverlac camping, Groot Winterhoek • Die Mond in the Tankwa Karoo • Alpha Farm, Agter Cederberg.

We also had to find trails that we could use as CapeNature and Sanparks, for some absurd reason, do not allow dogs even when it is patently obvious that they can be no threat to any naturally occurring fauna.

So we discovered routes on the mountain The times Tau (India’s older sister) joined, the three made up a pack.

that was on our doorstep, Kasteelberg, and

13

sometimes sneaked onto routes away from prying eyes of the authorities. One of our particular favourites was to Ontongskop, on the Waterval Hiking Trail. This particular route allowed for the most fantastic views across VoĂŤlvlei dam towards The Riebeek Valley, so much so that India and Stan grace the cover of this booklet, sitting before the same spectacle.

And they made it into Country Life magazine, in an article on pet friendly destinations. We actually met the journalist who wrote the article near the summit whilst on a hike with India and Stan the Man.

14

Country Life

Papkuilsfontein

The Oorlogskloof, close to the cottages on Papkuilsfontein, is a spectacular erosion into the landscape, and a scene of one of the final encounters between the San and the invading Europeans. On the farm are structures recording an earlier occupation, now mostly in ruins

15

Vermaaklikheid

Back Track cottage at Vermaaklikheid, the road alongside the Duivenhoks River leading to the most interesting historical farm complex, Kleinefontein, some scenes around what could loosely be called a village, and the dogs awaiting the last operating pontoon in the country, which crosses the Breede River at Malgas.

16

Die Mond Deep in the Tankwa Karoo one does not expect to find water, except for the sluggish Doring River, which even during the summer months, is the semblance of a waterway.

This probably explains the high volume of San paintings on the walls of the ravine. Try and imagine elephants in this environment! One year when Inds, Stan and I visited, we were confronted by a river that had not flowed in something like thirty years – I sent the dogs in first to test the depth before crossing with the bakkie – they loved it!

17

Beaverlac Beaverlac is a camping site in the Groot Winterhoek Nature area.

It is fairly unique in that the owners allow dogs (they pay too!), which goes a long way to sustain the belief that our pets are not detrimental to wild areas.

I have stayed and hiked many times with India and Stan, and we have always had a superb time.

Karin joined me on one expedition, which certainly heightened the experience.

18

travelling . . .

Waiting, always waiting.”Why does Christopher take such a long time to prepare?

We’re ready”. Such was the nature of trips, whether to the shops or something infinitely more exploratory.

The road south from the Cederberg traverses stunning depths and highs, with mountains displaying aeons of erosion. The Moravian mission village of Wupperthal sits deep in the Agter Cederberg. India and Stan inspect a quiet street.

19

. . . and exploring

India and Stan became my trusty assistants while exploring, from a spring on Kasteelberg that was the water source for early Riebeek West, to a nearby cave wherein lay discarded stone age tools. We looked at deserted farms for clues of previous residents and on one occasion, rested on the foundations of a burnt out house that once had spectacular views from Banghoek.

20

at play Beaches, rivers, mountains, country roads, even disused rail tracks – they were all the same: playgrounds . . .

21

22

23

24

25

Stan and India debate the finer points of a stick, while Tau shows disdain, more interested in the view over the Duivenhoks River near Swellendam

26

Walking into their twilight years . . .

A special dedication of this booklet is made to ALL at Bergzicht Animal Hospital in Malmesbury.

Without exception they show compassion and an amazing enthusiasm for the welfare of the animals that they care for.

A sign of age: India developed a degenerative spinal condition in her latter years, but Stan, despite an operation at the same stage, showed no signs of his mortality. “Just throw the ball. Please�.

Bergzicht 022 482 2399 www.countrylife.co.za www.beaverlac.co.za www.papkuilsfontein.com www.vermaaklikheid.co.za Die Mond 023 317 0668

27

D e s i gn a n d layo u t by o rch a rd de si g n Ph otog raphy by ch ri s to ph e rj . ph oto g ra phy e : o rch a rd@ wca cce ss. co . z a w: w ww. ch ri s to ph e rj ph oto . co m