Hospitality Finds New Ways to Connect

Industry Adapts to Change with New Beverage and Service Options

Having faced everything from constantly changing government mandates to broken supply chains, hospitality has been disrupted like no other industry in the world over the last two years. The turmoil has shut down iconic restaurants and forced others to completely rethink their products and services just to keep the doors open another day. Hotels have encountered their fair share of challenges too, including meetings and conventions revenue that has all but evaporated and been replaced by virtual gatherings.

Yet, in the midst of the adversity, restaurant and lodging industry businesses are finding ways to adapt to the many curve balls being thrown their way. Just staying in the game has required them to get creative, from adopting new technology like touchless ordering to reimagining how and where they serve their patrons and guests. What they serve them is changing to, and innovation on the beverageside of the business is helping fuel recovery in more ways than one.

It could be argued that no one has contributed more to the ongoing comeback than Oregon’s breweries, but supplying their own in-house taps while delivering kegs and cases to restaurants, bars, hotels, and grocers has been no easy task. “We have come a long way in the past 16 months and have learned some very valuable lessons,” observes Mike Rowan, food and beverage director for Deschutes Brewery in Bend. “The key to continued success for all of us is flexibility and adaptability.” Necessary moves like reabsorbing and throwing out unused inventory have been part of that process.

Deschutes Brewery

PHOTOS COURTESY OF DESCHUTES BREWERY

From Left: A selection of Deschutes packaged beer offerings, Spiked lemonade cocktail to-go

“We lost a significant volume of keg production and actually had to buy back inventories from our distributors and destroy a large volume of draft beer,” laments Rowan. “The one silver lining was the increase in retail beer sales. Pantry stocking during March and April of 2020 was a surprise to most breweries.” That drove the brewery to pivot to more canned beer production. As a result, “We were able to keep up with the consumer demand and kept beer on the shelf,” he reports.

Deschutes found other ways to quench its fans’ thirst for porters and even added cocktails to the mix. “We pulled a few levers along the way, starting out with a local alcoholic beverage delivery system out of the Pearl District in Portland,” explains Rowan. “We offered a variety of packaged beer product to add to their portfolio of beer, wine and spirits. Once we established our menu, staffing, etc. for the to-go business, we also developed some to-go cocktails. And thanks to the efforts of ORLA, it was heartening to see the OLCC allow on premise licensees ‘to-go’ cocktails.”

Others in the industry were pleasantly surprised by the “to-go” decision as well. “Ironically enough, I had a discussion about three weeks ahead of the OLCC approving to-go cocktails and said to someone that Oregon will never approve to-go cocktails,” remembers Chayse Murphy, bartender, The Bohemian Bar in Grants Pass. “Low and behold, they approved it directly after. OLCC's requirement for to-go cocktails denotes that you can order two drinks per substantial food item. Anything that would be considered a meal was allowed, and we started selling them like crazy. There's stipulations on containers and labels, but it was nothing that we couldn't handle getting together quickly. Containers must not be able to be resealed fully and must be labeled as alcohol and say, ‘21 or over’ on them.”

Taking to-go a step further, the bar also began selling jars of cocktail mixers along with instructions on how to prepare them to the hands-on, DIY crowd. For example, “3 oz. mix, add alcohol and shake etc.,” shares Murphy. The bar began advertising and pushing the mixers, and, after a slow start, they gained traction quickly. “It was a hit!” he says. “People were coming in and grabbing mixers for their whole week on a regular basis and we were ecstatic. We still put out the same great food and drinks, hoping that whenever we were allowed to start seating again, people would be dying to get back to normalcy, whatever that would be in the future.”

The to-go trend has had mixed results at the opposite end of the

The Bohemian Bar, Grants Pass

PHOTO COURTESY OF BOHEMIAN BAR & BISTRO

From Left: Boh classic cocktail to-go, Bar Manager Chayse Murphy

state in one Portland-based bar. “Before the ‘reopening’ of the economy, we were selling quite a few to-go cocktails,” recalls Michael Shea, owner of Rum Club. “It was a great way for guests uncomfortable with going out in public to be able to get some Rum Club to take home. We offer any of our menu cocktails as to-go that don’t require any special ice or “finishing:” crushed ice and blended drinks.” But when restrictions were loosened enough that people could return to their favorite bar stool, this piece of the revenue pie all but dried up. “Since July, those to-go sales have gone to a trickle,” reveals Shea.

Meanwhile, breweries like Pelican Pub & Brewing in Pacific City and Cannon Beach, have branched out beyond beer and developed alternative beverages to attract a wider range of customers. “We have seen seltzers take a big jump in market share, from a beverage perspective our amazing brewery team is not only looking for current trends, but they are wizards when it comes to forecasting future trends,” says Ken Henson, director of restaurant operations. “They are constantly evaluating and reevaluating which direction to pivot to create brand new beers.”

Another development, consumers’ desire for non-alcoholic beverage options, led Deschutes Brewery in a new direction. “We have been working with a group called Sustainable Beverage Technology on new and exciting ways to brew and package beers, including N/A beers,” shares Rowan. “They helped us develop our N/A Irish Style Dark beer and are currently working on a Porter and an IPA. When we release a batch of our N/A dark beer, we find it is in high demand, particularly on our direct-to-consumer platform. We have fans contacting us constantly to see when the next batch will be available. N/A is still a very niche market, but the product itself is outstanding.”

The good news is that Deschutes has found somewhere to serve its quaffable products when indoor dining options are suddenly restricted (or even eliminated). In addition to building covered spaces for additional seating, the brewery worked local governments on other options. “I really appreciate the willingness of both cities, Portland and Bend to loosen up the regulations for sidewalk and street closures,” says Rowan. “This was really a game changer, particularly because we had such a mild spring.”

Others have turned the lemons they’ve been dealt into lemon drops. “The best thing to happen while we dealt with the issues of 25 percent indoor dining was the addition of our parklet,” mentions Murphy. “Allowing us to extend our drinking area into

the parking area of the road, and up onto the sidewalk in front of our neighboring building. We decorated it, lit it all up and had a great summer with those extra chairs. Winter was a little bit rougher during the really cold months, but our amazing customers braved all of the elements and helped us fight to stay open (with the help of propane heaters that is).”

Oregon lodging establishments, like the Abbey Road Farm Bed and Breakfast (B&B) in Carlton, have found creative ways to keep business flowing their way during these strange times. “When the owners took over the property, it just had the Silo Suites B&B, which already had a good following,” reports General Manager Emily Everett. “After building the winery and planting the vineyard, the B&B definitely saw an uptick in bookings. The convenience of having a place to stay after a long day of wine tasting has proven to be very attractive to guests both traveling from far and local ‘staycationers.’”

Then everything changed, and Abbey Road Farm changed with it. “We were definitely concerned, being a relatively new winery, how COVID was going to impact our business and growth,” Everett continues. “We have a large space that had been booked out all of 2020 for wedding and events. Since those could not happen, we were able to move the tasting room into the event space (which is a converted horse arena). We were able to accommodate wine tasting guests in an incredibly distanced, safe and responsible manner. We also have a large lawn where guests could spread out and enjoy wine tastings outside when the weather was nice.”

Abbey Road Farm has made the most of its terroir in tempting its guests to return. B&B guests get a complimentary wine tasting and have the opportunity to participate in a 5-course lunch paired with wines from the various winemakers who work out of the on-site winery collective. “Not only do we make Abbey Road Farm and our Wilkens Family label, we also are home to James

Abbey Road Farm Bed and Breakfast, Carlton

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ABBEY ROAD FARM

Rahn Wine Company, Statera, Lares, Fruit Day Inc. and Human Cellars,” says Everett. “It’s great to be able to offer so make different styles from different winemakers. It’s a unique wine tasting experience and our guests love the variety.”

Down the road in McMinnville, the Atticus Hotel has used its connections with area wineries and breweries to attract and retain customers. “The Atticus Hotel is locally owned and operated, and as such we pride ourselves on being able to share our insider’s perspective with our guests,” says Owner Erin Stephenson. “Our concierge team is truly amazing, working with each guest to define what they want to get out of their time in Oregon wine country, and building custom itineraries to meet their individual needs. We always keep our collective finger on the pulse of what’s happening with wineries, breweries and all the other craft

Atticus Hotel & 3rd Street Flats

PHOTOS BY SIONNIE LAFOLLETTE

Erin Stephenson, Atticus Hotel & 3rd Street Flats, McMinnville

PHOTOS BY SIONNIE LAFOLLETTE

beverage producers around the valley, to be sure we can curate experiences for our guests that they wouldn’t necessarily find on their own.

“I love standing in the lobby and watching a guest meet their concierge face to face for the first time—so often they feel like old friends by that point! In pre-COVID times it wasn’t rare at all to see hugs exchanged during that first meeting. The level of service we offer our guests, and the customization of those itineraries, keep people coming back time and again.”

Hospitality businesses have come up with a lot of creative ideas to keep business alive in 2020-21, but Henson isn’t sure what is here to stay. “I think a lot of people have a lot of differing opinions on what is here to stay, certainly drive thrus, touchless payment, contactless ordering are all high on the list, but I think it might be too early to tell what the future needs of our guests are,” observes Henson. “We are still in the middle of this, and I’m keeping my eyes and ears open and watching all of the technology that is coming out at a rapid pace. Ask me again in six months and I’ll have a better idea, but I believe it will be digital, create a need for less employees, and I hope it doesn’t come with a mask requirement.” One thing that won’t change at the Rum Club is its focus on good old fashioned customer care. “We’re still using a server to take orders,” points out Shea. “I prefer there to be service. Depending on the program, I’d expect many businesses to switch back to some form of direct ordering.”

Going forward, he sees at least one clever beverage idea that sprang out of the pandemic times continuing on into the foreseeable future. “Cocktail mixes are awesome,” says Shea. “I’d expect them to stay. Many times last summer, I picked up limes with the intent of making Margaritas and ended up just drinking the tequila plain. Who wants to juice and do all that prep at home?”

For those who prefer to escape to their favorite watering hole, it’s nice to have those options available again. As the saying (or song) goes, “You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.” Re-opened restaurants, bars, and hotels have been a sanctuary for many, as they gather, toast, and reunite.

“The ability to kick back, enjoy a damn tasty beer, glass of Oregon Pinot Noir or cocktail is a respite to the everyday stresses we are exposed to,” concludes Rowan. “When Gary Fish first

Ken Henson, Pelican Pub & Brewing

PHOTO COURTESY OF PELICAN PUB & BREWING

opened the pub in Bend, his goal was to offer a space where people could have lively discourse over a pint of beer. This sentiment has not changed over the years and, if anything, we all realize how important it is to have a human connection in person, versus via a technological platform. During the height of the pandemic, we did attempt to have virtual happy hours that were fun, but certainly not as impactful as an in-person gathering.”

That’s not something that the virtual world will ever replace. “The best part of being in this industry is that I feel it's one of the few industries that will never go away,” asserts Murphy. “If other people's business is doing well, they are out drinking. If they aren't doing that great, they are out drinking, it's kind of fool proof in my opinion. Food and beverage is the world’s language, it’s what we connect over. What we converse over, love over and cry over. In these trying times, we as people need to come together and connect, and the restaurant industry is the bond that allows that to happen. As Anthony Bourdain once commented, ‘Food may not be the answer to world peace, but it’s a start.’”

Maybe he’s onto something here. Food and beverages are more than just fuel for the body. They light up a whole industry and everyone who touches it. “At the end of the day, we need to remember what hospitality is all about,” reflects Henson. “The gathering of friends and family to break bread, celebrate, commiserate, dream, cry, and bond over amazing food and beverage. The act of partaking in food and drink heals our wounds and bridges our divides, and we are fortunate that we are in the position to bring people together in communion to shine a little light in dark times and provide the opportunity to bring people together over an experience that we help craft.” Bourdain couldn’t have said it better himself.  KIRK RICHARDSON

About Kirk Richardson is the author of Craft Beer Country: In Search of the Best Breweries from the South Pacific to the Pacific Coast. Since 2006, Kirk has written more than 100 articles for ORLA magazines, including several on Oregon beer, wine, and spirits.