Epicure Vietnam Issue 04

Page 1

THE BASIS of PLANT-BASED FOOD

A tribute to the Culinary Pioneers who shaped Vietnam’s food and drink industry

Unquestionably the finest Truffle experience in Vietnam

Adrien Guenzi Michelin’s experience at the leading Square One Restaurant

ISSUE 04 SUMMER 2021 epicurevietnam.com AUTHORS

Redefining Normality

The dreaded pandemic has thoroughly disrupted lives and livelihoods, everywhere. People were prevented from congregating, or chose to do so voluntarily. And on the bleeding edge of these restrictions, of course, are people-focused businesses like hospitality operators and event organisers.

Hotels, restaurants, and food services in general had to quickly master the art of take-out and delivery, while dealing with escalating sanitation demands, staff infection issues, and empty dining rooms and kitchens. These and more gave operators more challenges than they ever faced before.

With the Vietnamese authorities becoming ever stricter with controlling the various outbreaks with lockdowns and distancing measures, home delivery services have taken centre stage. With amazing and creative menus, restaurants like Anan, MAD House Saigon, La Villa, Hoa Túc have been busy giving locals and expats many choices of fine-dining - at home.

Hotels too had to find new business. Creative staycation packages offered by major fivestar hospitality brands are attracting growing interest from local Vietnamese. The opportunity to sleep in silky duvets with goose-feather pillows at never before offered rates are now on offer at top shelf hotels like The Reverie, Park Hyatt Saigon, Hotel des Arts, and Mia Saigon.

With borders staying closed for the foreseeable future, please allow Epicure Vietnam's Summer Edition to take you instead on a journey of discovery of plant-based foods, and culinary pioneer chefs like Sakang Phoeung, Peter Cuong, and Tristian Ngo. These masters, and many more are elevating Vietnam’s food and drink scene to the next level internationally.

Whether you are a local, an expatriate, or a visitor, celebrate this summer with Epicure Vietnam in the hope that borders will soon open, and Vietnam will again be a rising star.

And stronger than ever.

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

BEACON OF RESILIENCE

Experience the essence of the modern Vietnamese lifestyle in Ho Chi Minh City with Park Hyatt Saigon, recognised as a GBAC STARTM accredited facility by the Global Biorisk Advisory Council thanks to its commitment to safety and luxury urban comforts.

THANH NIEN PUBLISHING HOUSE HO CHI MINH CITY BRANCH

DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF

MANAGING DIRECTOR & PUBLISHER

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER ACCOUNT MANAGER

EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ASSISTANT EDITORS

DESIGNER

ADVERTISING EDITORIAL CIRCULATION

EDITOR

WINE EDITOR

ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER FEATURES WRITER

SENIOR DESIGNERS

IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER

CONTRIBUTOR

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR

MARKETING EXECUTIVE SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Alicia Chow Kirwan

Photo Edmond Ho

Recipes Fernando Arévalo of Preludio, Mano Thevar of Thevar and Ace Tan of 1-V:U

64 Ba Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam 145 Pasteur Street, Ward 6, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Le Thanh Ha

Jade Huynh

Leon Shears

Christian Baker

Nho Thanh Hang

Ta Quang Huy

Peter Cornish, Chris Thompson, Jovel Eugenia Chan, Rainer Sigel

Thao Nguyen, My Hien

Quoc Vuong

Marketing@oriental-media.com Editorial@oriental-media.com

Circulation@oriental-media.com

Nida Seah

June Lee

Eve Tedja

Victoria Lim Sharmaine Loh

Shee Leng, Dewi M. Singgih

Jun Evangelista Tu Jie Rui

Priyanka Elhenc

Dewi Prasodjo

Daniel Poon

Sheila Devi Shauna Mun

Dennis Pua

epicure vietnam is licensed by Magazines Integrated Private Limited registered in Singapore and produced 4 times a year by:

Oriental Media & Event Services Co., Ltd

19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Ward 1, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC, Vietnam T: +84 28 3844 1612 | E: editorial@oriental-media.com

Printed by Itaxa Company

126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Distributed by Truong Phat

179 Ly Chinh Thang, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Our social media channels

Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

Publishing License No. 95-2021/CXBIPH/70-02/TN. Publishing Decision: 327/QĐ-TN

Date of License Issued: June 30 th, 2021. ISBN Code: 978-604-317-980-4. Size 230 x 280mm. Publishing Quantity: 25,000 copies. Registered in July 2021

8 epicure vietnam
ON THE COVER Bowl Bornéo by Emilio Robba, Daum Concept Esther Faith Lew Art direction & Styling
epicurevietnam epicureasia epicurevietnam epicureasia epicurevietnam.com epicureasia.com
Shot at Jambu Studio
SUMMER
VOLUME 04 | AUTHORS
2021
For more information on our Black Périgord Truffle email darian@trufflehill.com.au
10 epicure vietnam CONTENTS EPICURE NEWS 22 A Sweet Sensation Shakes Up Hai Ba Trung 23 Burn Baby Burn An Empire State of Mind at Café In 24 Seventh Heaven The Tale of a Libatious Trilogy 25 Something like a “Phởnomenon” All Systems on The go For Lacàph 26 Sebastion Smith, The New Sheriff on 37 Ky Con Take a Chill in Ibiza 27 A Train Reaction of Modern Thai Food Grandma (Hai) Knows Best GLOBETROTTING EPICURE 28 Ducasse in Tokyo 29 To Dine for Peruvian Party 30 Elegant French Veggie Tales 31 More Meat Please 24 Hours in Siem Reap, Cambodia 32 Play by The Bay 33 A Modern Landmark The Heart of Māori

In partnership with Anantara Resorts in Quy Nhon and Hoi An, tailor make your private j ourney, special event or group with a limit to 12 guests only.

D E S I G N E D B Y L U X P E R I A A L U X U R Y O V E R L A N D T R A I N J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H C E N T R A L V I E T N A M
12 epicure vietnam CONTENTS GOURMET INSIDER 34 Square One Vietnam & France, The Best of Both Worlds 36 San Fu Lou Authentic Chinese Taste in The Heart of Saigon 37 Louisiane Brewhouse Exclusive Beers in an Idyllic Beachside Location GOURMET KNOWLEDGE 38 Maxim’s de Paris Celebrating French Art de Vivre 40 Unquestionably The Finest Truffle Experience in Vietnam 42 Mulo Coffee Perfection Brewed With Vietnamese Beans And Italian Expertise 44 Star Kombucha A Healthy Drink for The Epidemic Season 46 Häagen-Dazs Over 50 Years of Passion in Every Creamy Bite 47 Delicious Fruits How Delicious are Your Fruits? 48 The Basis of Plant-based Food 58 To Supplement or Not to Supplement? 64 HOS Kitchenwares Enhancing The Difference With Signature Hospitality Solutions 65 Sunshine Equipment The Best Partner for Your Kitchen
14 epicure vietnam CONTENTS GOURMET TRAVELLER 66 Amanoi The Epitome of Peace 68 Regent Phu Quoc Tribute to The Legendary Past 70 L’Azure The Mediterranian Muse of Phu Quoc Island 72 Glamping When A Night Under Canvas Comes With Glamour And Comfort CHEF MASTERCLASS 78 Michelin’s Experience at The Leading Square One Restaurant 82 Mexican Flair at Mia Saigon 84 The Culinary Maestro
PIONEERS 88 A Tribute to The Culinary Pioneers Who Shaped Vietnam’s Food and Drink Industry
CULINARY

120

16 epicure vietnam CONTENTS
EPICUREAN PROFILE
Mother Nature’s Power to Replace Single-use Plastic 104
of Distinction
Rebirth of Renowned Burgundian House 116
The Black
Ribera Del Duero
100 Harnessing
Creators
WINE KNOWLEDGE 112 The
Tinto Fino and
Grapes of
Appreciating Wine
118 The Art of
VINE EXPECTATIONS
When Wine Becomes a Family Affair
A Job for Ants 126 Island Wine Time
122

CELLAR CHOICE

130 The Art on The Label Does Justice to The Wine Within

131 It’s a Fine Time to Pop the Pork on these 2010 Releases

132 Sampan Rhum Vietnam A True Taste of The Tropics

TIPPLE TIPS

133 Anna Princena and Kelly Wong from MO Bar are The Winners of the Remy Martin Barrel Aged Cocktail Competition 2020 with a Savvy Salt-crusted Creation

SECRET RECIPES

134 Pushing Boundaries

18 epicure vietnam
CONTENTS

RAISING THE BAR

SEEN & SAVOURED

20 epicure vietnam CONTENTS
Perfecting The Art of Mixology at 2 Lam Son Bar 147 Drinking & Healing Cures All Where Elegance and Sophistication Converge Japanese Flavour Meets Vietnamese Asthetic 148 Back to The Roaring ‘20s Comfort and Cocktail A Culinary Rendezvous 149 Where Your perfect Cocktail Awaits You A Haven for All Gin Enthusiasts An Evening of Intrigue and Murder 150 New & Refreshed 151 Tonic for Our Times
146
152 The Commanderie de Bordeaux, A Perfect Gathering of Saigon’s Wine Enthusiasts & Connoiseurs 154 One Day Can Change Your Whole Life 156 WHERE TO FIND

A SWEET SENSATION SHAKES UP HAI BA TRUNG

An Nam Professional has launched an exciting new concept in Saigon with the opening of a Mathieu Teisseire bar at 18 Hai Ba Trung. Described as an internal mixologist lab, the bar has been set up to help F&B customers and professional mixologists develop their beverage portfolios using France’s number 1 fruit-flavoured syrups, Mathieu Teisseire. With support from Mathieu Teisseire’s brand ambassadors, the new location incorporates a fully functional bar design and welcomes mixologists and customers to develop their recipes using Teisseire syrups together with Perrier, Britvic Mixer, London Essence, Sampan rhum and other alcohol beverage partners of An Nam Professional. Mathieu Teisseire Global Brand ambassadors, Huy Ho and Duong Tran have taken a lead role in the development of the new concept, bringing with their years of experience working in the beverage industry to create bespoke menus and customized solutions for customers right at the bar. Contact An Nam Professional to get your business recipes and free consultancy. Tel: (+84) 903 097 770. Email: foodservice@annam-professional.com

22 epicure vietnam
NEWS
EPICURE

BURN BABY BURN

The team that brought Sạp Concept Store to Vietnam is now about to invest further in the restaurant sector with an exciting new opening at M Plaza on the Nguyen Du side. In Latin, Ardeo means to burn and to be in love. It perfectly symbolises the Italian passion for cooking with temperature, both low and high. Inspired by global cuisine movements and adapted to regional contexts, Ardeō is excited to offer a truly cosmopolitan twist by sharing unique stories through its menu, infused with the best local ingredients. The Ardeō culinary concept promises a contemporary eatery experience in a sensuous atmosphere. Fuelled by a burning enthusiasm for culinary craftsmanship, the restaurant will showcase the products of both hearth and hands. High-quality ingredients are set to be an integral part of the food, united with advanced cooking techniques intended to highlight artisanal values that permeate through every dish they prepare. Tel: (+84)

AN EMPIRE STATE OF MIND AT CAFÉ IN

Empire City is where modern, urban living embraces a fresh new concept, providing a superior quality of life away from traffic jams and confined living spaces. Located right at the centre of Thu Thiem peninsula, surrounded by the Saigon River, the project will create a vibrant environment balanced between a natural landscape and the rapidly developing megacities that border it on each side. Conveniently located just minutes away from Saigon’s downtown District 1, this is a place where you can immerse yourself in a bustling, dynamic environment, meeting your needs for living, working and entertaining without compromising on space, connectivity or convenience. Existing harmoniously like a forest, every part has a purpose that interconnects with each other. A cafe created by hospitality guru, Mr Danh Tran who brought us Quan Bui and Laang, serves coffee supplied exclusively by Nat Paolone from Silvi coffee. Empire City - Linden Residences, 05 Tran Bach Dang Street, Thu Thiem Ward, Thu Duc City. Tel: (+84) 28 6682 6617

epicure vietnam 23
961 745 671

SEVENTH HEAVEN

Located on the 7th floor of the fabled Majestic Hotel, River Avenue has sweeping views across the Saigon River and is an unmissable destination if you’re looking for an exclusive and convenient dining experience. Serving an impressive menu of Vietnamese fusion cuisine made from the freshest local and imported ingredients, the restaurant’s signature dishes include Pho Royal, an enticing take on the legendary pho bo, and Hu Tieu, a traditional dish of shrimp and pork synonymous with southern Vietnam. Constructed in 1925 in French Colonial and classical French Riviera styles, the city centre Majestic Hotel is an oasis of good taste and convenience in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. For the businessperson wanting an elegant city location to entertain clients or colleagues, or the discerning visitor wanting to capture a little of the magic of old Saigon, River Avenue provides an unsurpassed dining experience. Majestic Hotel, 7th Floor, 1 Dong Khoi Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (+84) 28 3829 9079

THE TALE OF A LIBATIOUS TRILOGY

“We live as we dream, alone,” but thanks to Saigon brewhouse, Heart of Darkness, and their trilogy of pale ales, the dark loneliness of drinking just one beer need never happen again. Leading the trilogy is the Dream Alone Pale Ale, a lighter, crispier alternative to their original traditional British Pale Ale, Pitiless Folly. Thanks to the popularity of this libatious tipple which quickly became their best-selling beer, the team at Heart of Darkness decided to make The Mistress, a Double IPA version of Dream Alone, in celebration of their 2nd Anniversary. For the third instalment of the Dream Alone Trilogy, the creative team took the Mistress and added Amarillo to Mosaic and Citra hops, elevating the beer to a heady 10+ % ABV but sensibly toning it down to a sessionable 6.5% ABV IPA. Launched in May this year, the delicious brew sold out immediately. 31D Ly Tu Trong Street, Ben Nghe Ward, DIstrict 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (+84) 903 017 596

24 epicure vietnam

ALL SYSTEMS ON THE GO FOR LACÀPH

Whether we’re stuck at home in another lockdown, or our hectic schedule keeps us glued to the office chair, it’s not always possible to escape to our favourite cafe for some well-deserved me-time and an indulgent ice-cold drink. If this rings a bell with you, Lacàph has just what you’re looking for with a temptingly refreshing selection of ready-to-drink cold brew coffee and cold steeped cascara tea. Lacàph Signature Cold Brew is made from the finest Arabica beans, carefully roasted to enhance their smooth, dark, chocolaty notes, then brewed for over 18 hours to create a wonderfully refreshing drink. Their Cold Steep Cascara tea is made from the dried peel of Arabica cherries, cold steeped for over 20 hours to accentuate their delicate hints of fruit then blended with Lacàph Coffee Blossom Honey to complement their natural sweetness. Both are perfect for drinking at home, on the go, or anytime you’re thirsty. 1st Floor, 151 Dong Khoi Street, Ben Nghe Ward, DIstrict 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (+84) 866 721 202

SOMETHING LIKE A “PHỞNOMENON”

Arriving on the Saigon food scene just 12 weeks ago, Phở Chào’s 20-seater eatery has fast become one of the city’s go-to spots for dining or takeaway. With Mama Dung overseeing the kitchen, the small restaurant produces an incredibly clean, traditional Pho from Nam Dinh using a 3-day beef-bone stock and a secret blend of roasted herbs and spices. Add to this a range of delicious traditional beef cuts, chicken for their phở, a Ragu Bo (Beef Stew), and Mama Dung's Fried Chicken, they have all bases covered! Mama Dung’s daughter, Linh, oversees operations accompanied by legendary Saigon foodie, Will Knight, who has crafted a menu for foreigners that includes Phởtine (Poutine with Phở Gravy). Combining crunchy golden French fries with sharp cheddar cheese and smothered in a rich Phở gravy reduction, this glorious fusion of East meets West comfort food is a hit with all who try it. 52 Nguyen Cong Tru Street, Ward 19, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City.

epicure vietnam 25

SEBASTION SMITH, THE NEW SHERIFF ON 37 KY CON

After a stint in quarantine, Sebastian Smith has emerged to take the role of General Manager with the award-winning hospitality outfit - Quince & Madam Kew – down at 37 Ky Con in HCMC’s District 1. Coming from a background in publishing with magazines such as Australian Sommelier Magazine and Oyster Magazine, Sebastian has also spent time in the beverage industry including Brand Ambassador for the iconic Italian beer Peroni. Having first visited Vietnam in 2018 for a short consultancy project he is delighted to be back and looking forward to enjoying the country’s famed hospitality and food. Sebastian’s guiding principle for hospitality is “they come for the food, they stay for the drinks and they return for the service,” and his first focus is repositioning their speakeasy bar, Madam Kew. Accompanying him is Fabien Marcault, their newly recruited Bar Manager who made his name by establishing cocktail joint Lola Saigon. 37bis Ky Con Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: (+84) 28 3823 7188

TAKE A CHILL IN IBIZA

Sol Kitchen & Pool Bar is a secret tropical oasis, tucked away between the busy streets of District 7. The spacious outdoor setting offers guests a combination of poolside relaxation, luxurious cabanas, a breezy bar and an open-plan kitchen restaurant, all nestled around glistening turquoise waters ready for you to dive in. As the sun sets, the evening begins at Sol. Rhythmic grooves and gentle lighting create an atmospheric Ibiza-style vibe, and the perfect environment to kick-back for an hour or two as the evening turns to night and the party begins. A constantly evolving tapas menu offers a choice of small and larger sharing platters, perfect for enjoying a nibble with friends, and a selection of sundowner cocktails, beers and mixed drinks are kept topped-up by a team of attentive and friendly staff. It’s no wonder this place is becoming a favourite for many. 514B Huynh Tan Phat, Binh Thuan, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (+84) 799 976 760

26 epicure vietnam

A TRAIN REACTION OF MODERN THAI FOOD

There is a street-style noodle stall at the entrance of Saigon’s newest Thai restaurant, Amdang Typhoon, and the moment you walk in the door, the feeling of Bangkok is everywhere. Signature plates from head chef, Nattapon Saipech, include a giant, grilled, river prawn imported from Thailand, a signature Spicy Chili Crab, and the Amdang Typhoon dessert, a surprising combination of tofu and tapioca flour, deepfried and doused in a nutty powder made from cashews and sesame. These and a wealth of other seafood, rice, veggie and noodle dishes, were enough to propel the restaurant’s first location into the 2020 Michelin Guide. At the Saigon location, slated to open in June (lockdown willing), customer service is prioritised: any and all dishes can be spice-adjusted based on a guest’s personal preference. It’s that attention to detail that make this newest edition to the city’s Thai culinary scene an absolute must-try. 23 Dong Khoi Sreet, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (+84) 877 756 688

GRANDMA (HAI) KNOWS BEST

Grandma’s cooking is always the best, and a visit to Ba Hai restaurant, one of three unique dining experiences at Zannier Hotels Bai San Ho, Phu Yen, is guaranteed to delight. Located in a building reminiscent of a traditional stilted Bahnar Communal House, the restaurant artfully showcases Vietnam’s rich culinary and cultural heritage. Inspiring the restaurant’s name, Ba Hai, meaning ‘Grandma Hai,’ the menus are influenced by centuries-old recipe books and home-cooking traditions learned from mothers and grandmothers. From the subtly of the North, the birthplace to many of Vietnam’s national dishes, to the intense flavours of Central Vietnam influenced by Royal traditions, and on to southern Vietnamese dishes, characterised by sweeter, aromatic flavours, guests are treated to an enticing culinary experience from the key regions of the country. Zannier Hotels’ luxurious hospitality is rooted in the philosophy of ‘Simple Mastery,’ and Ba Hai captures this essence to perfection. Zannier Hotels Bai San Ho, Hoa Thanh, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen Province.

epicure vietnam 27

DUCASSE IN TOKYO

Partnering with DUCASSE Paris, founded by world-renowned chef Alain Ducasse, Palace Hotel Tokyo unveils the new Esterre by Ducasse Paris –replacing Crown, the hotel’s first French fine dining restaurant. At Esterre, diners can look forward to experiencing a new French haute cuisine – to focus on locally-sourced ingredients. Expect ingredients like Tochigi’s Wagyu beef, avocados from Wakayama, vegetables from Nagano and mikan (Japanese Mandarin oranges) from Ehime Prefecture. Helmed by chef de cuisine Martin Pitarque Palomar, former sous chef at three Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, shares “Our concept of applying French techniques to bring out the distinctive, natural flavors of the most beautiful produce the Japanese terroir can offer presents an incredibly exciting challenge”. Level 6, Palace Hotel Tokyo, 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Tokyo 100-0005. Tel: +81 3 3211 5317

28 epicure vietnam
GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

PERUVIAN PARTY

With the recent opening of TokyoLima in Hong Kong, the cosmopolitan city now has an additional cuisine to boast about. Perched on Lyndhurst Terrace in the heart of Central, the late-night dining spot helmed by Peruvian chef Arturo Melendez serves up creative plates of Nikkei (Japanese-inspired Peruvian cuisine) eats featuring plentiful fresh seafood, interesting textures and native ingredients such as aji amarillo chilli, passion fruit Tiger’s Milk, pickled kiuri and citrus shoyu. The drinks menu, curated by mixologist Isabella Vannoni, is centred around an approachable sake list and inventive cocktails. 18 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2811 1152

TO DINE FOR

Kazuki, a Japanese-inspired modern bistro is the brainchild of chef and owner Kazuki Tsuya, whose impressive resumé includes foodie heavyweight names such as The Lake House and France Soir. Kazuki’s menu fuses contemporary Australian and Japanese cuisine. After spending nine years in Daylesford, Tsuya has moved to Lygon Street in Carlton.

The new interiors, designed by Design Office (Higher Ground, Congress, Marta), focuses on traditional Japanese elements – be greeted with soft grey tones and accents of Japanese elm, granite and leather touches. Tuck into scrumptious JapaneseEuropean dishes such as Kingfish Sashimi with Buttermilk, Finger Lime, White Soy and Ginger; Uni served on russet potato chip with beluga caviar and cultured cream; and Sher Wagyu Flank cooked over coals with smoked eel and port wine reduction. Desserts tread similar cross-cultural territory, with the likes of a dark chocolate tart with gianduja ganache, hazelnuts and miso caramel; plus a yoghurt sorbet with yuzu and verbena curd with Anzac biscuit crumb both appearing. 121 Lygon Street. Tel: +03 9349 2223

epicure vietnam 29

ELEGANT FRENCH

Chef Ricardo Chaneton, former head Chef of three Michelin-starred (and no. 1 on World’s 50 best Restaurant 2019) Mirazur has opened his first restaurant MONO in Hong Kong together with JIA Group, the Hong Kong-based hospitality firm founded by Yenn Wong. Located on Lan Street, the intimate 30-seater modern French restaurant has ditched the traditional à la carte dishes for a tasting menu. Highlights include Ocean Crudo, fresh Hokkaido scallops, Hokkaido sea urchin, Spanish Carabinero prawn and Brittany oysters, seasoned with Irish moss and accompanied with a homemade cracker – made through a two-day process of peeling, steaming and drying the shrimp shells, reducing the shells down to powder, then blending with sago and tapioca before deep-frying in oil. Level 5, 18 On Lan Street, Central. Tel: +852 2506 8676

VEGGIE TALES

We love the sound of Bad hunter, a veggie-forward restaurant and bar that’s just opened in Chicago’s Meatpacking district. shifting the focus away from meats and training his spotlight on the humble vegetable, executive chef Dan Snowden dishes up delectable eats such as maitake mushrooms a la plancha, butternut squash and ricotta salata; tempura fried lemons and Japanese sweet potato with balsamic and hazelnuts; and wood-grilled carrots and fennel with pistachiogreen-chile pesto, avocado crema and queso fresco. Carnivores aren’t left out though: the braised lamb grilled cheese, seeded rye, mahon cheese and harissa aioli; and bacon and radish cake Benedict, poached eggs, miso hollandaise and tatsoi are just two of many on snowden’s all-day offerings, brunch and daily rotating lunch and dinner menus. save space for dessert and its craft cocktails. 802 West Randolph street, Chicago, Illinois 60607. Tel: +1 312 265 1745

30 epicure vietnam

MORE MEAT PLEASE

This one is for the meat enthusiasts. Helmed by seasoned British chef Nathan Green, Henry, located in Rosewood Hong Kong, is every meat lover’s dream come true as the restaurant draws heavy influences from Green’s countryside upbringing and American traditions to bring the best of Texas barbecue to the table. Ready your appetites with their impressive menu from the wood-fire ovens, charcoal grills, dryaged heritage meats, and even an in-house butcher shop on display. Save some room for their decadent desserts like the rich Chocolate Fondant paired with pretzel-flavoured ice cream, the sinful Cornmeal Soufflé with Bacon Ice Cream or the classic baked Alaska. Level 5, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road. Tel: +852 3891 8732

24 HOURS IN Siem Reap, Cambodia

» Where to eat There’s no shortage of dining options in cosmopolitan Siem Reap. I love going to Banlle for its vegetarian fusion fare. Set in a beautiful and quiet garden, it’s an oasis of calm right in the heart of Siem Reap. Fresh vegetables from their organic farm are served in a charming wooden house and you won’t want to leave without trying their vegetable amok, a Cambodian curry of vegetables served in banana leaves.

It’s also nice to have other cuisines for a change and Fumizen is great for Japanese tonkatsu - perfectly fried panko-battered, deep-fried pork cutlets.

» Where to drink Pub Street is a hive of activity with its many bars and restaurants. Sip an Angkor Beer after a day at the temples; you can even do a little shopping at the markets surrounding the street. Make a turn into a small alley and you will find The Glide Bar, an elegant rooftop space that is great for drinks at sunset. Cocktails and bar bites go hand in hand as you admire the fastchanging skyline of Siem Reap.

» Where to stay The Aviary Hotel is a sophisticated urban oasis inspired by nature and Cambodia’s rich heritage of traditional crafts. This relaxing sanctuary filled with locally commissioned artworks, which celebrate the beauty and diversity of the kingdom’s birdlife, is conveniently located in the heart of the city.

Another go-to spot is the newlylaunched Sambok rooms combine modern lines and curves with Cambodian style. On a hot day, have a dip at any of the two pools in the property to cool off.

» What to do Siem Reap has modernised a lot but the countryside hasn’t changed as much - I like to cycle there, enjoy the scenic landscape which is filled with traditional wooden houses, children playing and serenity. After a day of cycling, one has to refuel and what better than a street food tour? Partake in Cambodian-style sandwiches, pork sausages, chive cakes and wash it all down with an iced-coffee.

epicure vietnam 31

PLAY BY THE BAY

Picturesque views of Lan Ha Bay beckon at Hotel Perle d’Orient Cat Ba – MGallery, the first international luxury hotel on Cat Ba Island, Vietnam. The hotel is surrounded by towering limestone karsts and sprawling verdant mountains, evoking a mood for unhurried exploration of the Cat Ba National Park or relaxation on the hotel’s own private beach.

Fashioned after traditional Vietnamese homes, the 121-key hotel features neoclassical furnishings in its guest rooms to evoke the ambience of the Indochine era. Hardwood floors, old-style claw foot bathtubs, rattan wicker chairs, ceiling fans and intricately patterned wall tiles add character to each guest room.

As Cat Ba is the adventure tourism capital of Vietnam, guests will be compelled to enjoy myriad outdoor activities for the sporty, or nature explorations for the eco-conscious. When the sun sets, the hotel’s restaurants and bars will beckon guests to sit back to cocktails at the alfresco Rock’s Bar; fine dining at Akoya; or local and international cuisines enjoyed on the colonial-inspired terrace of Indochine Kitchen. www.mgallery.com

32 epicure vietnam

A MODERN LANDMARK

Soaring high against the cityscape of downtown Chongqing, China, InterContinental Chongqing Raffles City makes a statement at Raffles City complex, a landmark comprising four skyscrapers connected at the top by The Crystal, a skybridge spanning 300m. Designed by world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie and his team, the 380-key hotel occupies the 44th floor to the 65th floor of the complex, with rooms and suites offering panoramic views through floor-to-ceiling windows. For leisure, guests may visit the 25m infinity pool or fitness centre, after which dining options beckon at Jing Dining Room & Bar, which offers Cantonese cuisine and Chongqing specialities. Predinner drinks may be enjoyed at The Maven or Horizon, the lobby lounge, sitting at an altitude of 250m and enjoying the ambience of a forest in the clouds. www.ihg.com

MIX BUSINESS WITH LEISURE

Pullman Yueyang makes its entrance in the Hunan province as the city’s first international upscale branded hotel.

Located by the Dongting Lake, a Nanhu scenic area in Yueyang, the hotel is conveniently near tourist destinations such as Nanhu Square, Sheng’an Temple and Jin’e Park.

The hotel offers 213 spacious guest rooms and suites, with the majority featuring balconies and lake views, exuding a warm ambience that invites guests to relax while enjoying the lakeside views. Dining options include casual eats at The Lobby Lounge, The Executive Lounge and allday dining offering Hunan and Cantonese cuisines as well as international selections at Lakeside.

Meeting facilities include a total space of 2,800 sqm ranging from the fully equipped pillar-free ballroom to 15 meeting rooms as well as an outdoor lawn for poolside functions and celebrations. www.pullman.com

THE HEART OF MĀORI

Designed to evoke the ambience of a Māori wharenui (house) with a touch of luxury, Park Hyatt Auckland overlooks Waitematā Harbour, inviting guests to luxuriate in its 47sqm to 245sqm rooms and suites. The 195-key hotel features guest rooms with spacious living areas and floor-to-ceiling windows, with the majority of rooms overlooking the Lighter Quay or the harbour. The interiors are dressed with Māori accents, custom-designed tukutuku panels and rugs made from New Zealand wool for an elegant yet homely feel.

Dining and entertaining options include varied experiences at Onemata, which highlights seasonal ingredients by New Zealand food artisans and suppliers; The Pantry for a quick ‘grab and go’; The Living Room for a lingering afternoon tea with picturesque waterfront views; and Captain’s Bar for classic cocktails with a local twist.

Located a short stroll away from the CBD, business travellers can easily segue from work to downtime activities, while the 9,500sqm of flexible event spaces including a ceremonial garden, meetings rooms and a rooftop bar provide a variety of ideas for planners. www. parkhyattauckland.com

epicure vietnam 33

SQUARE ONE Vietnam & France, the Best of Both Worlds

Leading Saigon’s culinary scene, Square One, with its five unique dining spaces, is a perfect blend of stylish interior, opulent ambience, contemporary artworks, tip-top service and thrilling culinary adventure. This restaurant is the true embodiment of “the art of dining”.

Located in the heart of Saigon, just behind Saigon Opera House on the corner of Hai Ba Trung Street and Lam Son Square, Park Hyatt Saigon is perhaps the most prestigious hotel for discerning travelers visiting the south of Vietnam. Custom designed to feature understated luxury with unparalleled elegance, Park Hyatt Saigon boasts world-class restaurants that welcome you with unsurpassed personalized service, complemented to perfection by truly unique dining experiences.

Center stage is Square One that offers lively and convivial dining ambience with open show kitchens where the restaurant’s chefs display their prowess preparing enticing dishes for eagerly awaiting

guests. Contemplating impressive Vietnamese contemporary artworks, whether it is profound peace or a shared experience, the restaurant’s five exquisitely designed dining spaces will definitely fulfill your every need. Not serving the fusion of French and Vietnamese cuisine like other contemporary restaurants, Square One distinguishes itself by displaying the two different culinary concepts independently so that the refinement of both worlds can be fully preserved.

Square One also takes pride in having international awardwinning chefs leading its talents. As constant upgrade and commitment to excellence is what Square One always strives for,

34 epicure vietnam
GOURMET INSIDER

every spectacular new dish is the result of the team’s meticulous preparation several months before meeting its guests. When paying a visit to Square One, guests will be taken on an exquisite culinary journey amid a modern, trendy and residential atmosphere where its acclaimed Vietnamese Chef de Cuisine and Michelin-experienced French Chef are the hosts who delight their palates. The most recognizable name among the team definitely goes to Adrien Guenzi, who joined Park Hyatt Saigon with a rich portfolio of knowledge and experience gained from working with the world’s top Michelin chefs.

The highlight that makes Square One a remarkable nomination to gastronomes is its signatures. Besides using premium ingredients imported directly from Western countries, Square One is also committed to the highest quality ingredients from responsible local farmers to support a sustainable future. Ca Mau soft shell crab, Phu Quoc fish sauce, Nha Trang oysters and black grouper, and Ben Tre river prawns are all familiar ingredients elevating the chefs’ specialties. The restaurant’s à la carte menu is rotated seasonally to ensure the exciting flavors of local delicacies from Vietnam and

the quintessence of exquisite dishes from the culinary capital of the world, France, are excellently featured. Moreover, every Sunday, Square One offers an exclusive limitless Sunday brunch featuring a wide selection of 31 spectacular Vietnamese and French dishes including seven starters, seven sides and condiments, six main courses, seven sweet treats as well as four Chef Signatures, with gracious tableside service.

It is not just the art of cuisine captured at Square One, but also the art of wine. Playing as one of the main pillars in every Park Hyatt’s DNA, Square One’s wine list is the obvious envy for most. A fine collection of more than 200 choices plus a robust selection of handpicked French wine by the glass will undoubtedly win over those who expect nothing but the best. With recommendations from the passionate yet knowledgeable wine expert, every detail of the guests’ dining experience has never been more captivating.

As more and more industry players join the scene, there are many restaurants that try hard to impress. However, at Square One there is no need for pretense as the distinctiveness of the food, the top-notch quality of service and the inviting ambience speak confidently for themselves. If you are looking for a memorable dining experience, Square One exceeds expectations.

2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam Tel: 028 3520 2359

epicure vietnam 35

SAN FU LOU

Authentic Chinese Taste in the Heart of Saigon

San Fu Lou Restaurant uses the traditional concept of a Chinese kitchen but with a new level of sophistication and a contemporary Oriental ambience.

Somewhere between a traditional Chinese pharmacy, gallery and nightclub, San Fu Lou’s decoration scheme is a fun, quirky mix. It works, and the ambience supports the food — dining is an experience for all the senses. San Fu Lou is one of a small number of hip Chinese eateries that cater to an international mix of Vietnamese, expats and tourists. Snugly tucked into the front corner of the AB Tower, it’s highly visible, and usually visibly full. Beef fried rice, wagyu beef and shitake dumplings, SFL Signature duck and black truffle dumplings, prawns in rice-flour rolls, and the San Fu Lou BBQ combination of chicken, duck and

pork are just a few of the myriad of delicious items on the extensive menu. Every dish works, is prepared well and cooked with great attention to detail. All the sauces compliment their dumplings. The restaurant delivers balance, all the flavours harmonious, nothing over-daring nor stuffily old, decent portions at a very reasonable price. For dessert, the mango pudding and fried banana with sesame seeds and vanilla ice cream are restaurant favourites. San Fu Lou offers great value for money, tasty food, good service and a refreshingly fun, playful style. For diners craving some dim sum this is the place to go.

SAN FU LOU 1: AB Tower, Ground Floor, 76A Le Lai Street, District 1, HCMC. Tel: +84.28 3823 9513

SAN FU LOU 2: 195-197 Phan Xich Long Street, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC. Tel: +84.28 3517 6168

Email: sanfulou@d1-concepts.com Web: sanfulou.com. Facebook: SanFuLou

36 epicure vietnam
GOURMET INSIDER

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE

Exclusive Beers in an Idyllic Beachside Location

When it comes to serving unique flavours, Louisiane Brewhouse confidently ticks all the boxes - exclusive locally brewed beers and a mouthwatering food menu, all served up at a beautiful beachfront location in Central Vietnam.

Perched right on the golden sands of Nha Trang beach in Central Vietnam, Louisiane Brewhouse has been serving a thirst-quenching selection of European inspired beers since its inception in 2006. The first beers to be poured were a local Pilsner and a Dark Lager, made under the watchful eye of master brewer Sean Symons from Australia. Since then, they have added a selection of seasonal ales, a popular Belgian Wit and a robust passion fruit beer, much to the delight of local and visiting hop-heads.

The demand for their locally brewed beer has been unquenchable, and the team of five brew staff work day-in-day-out under the guidance of Sean just to keep up. Thanks to their talents, dedication and the high-quality hops and malt imported from Australia and New Zealand, the beers they brew are unrivalled throughout the beachside city and attract thirsty customers from far and wide.

In addition to a choice of the locally brewed beers served in a relaxing beachfront setting, customers are drawn to Louisiane

Brewhouse by a menu that offers a selection of Western dishes, bar snacks and platters to share. House specials include a rich, flavoursome dark beer beef stew, a crispy roast pork belly served with sauteed mushrooms, and a lamb shank slowly stewed in red wine. Also on offer are a selection of Australian beef steaks, burgers, hand-crafted pizzas and Vietnamese dishes including a tempting aray of locally caught seafood.

With some of the most exclusive beers in Vietnam, relaxing loungers right on the beachfront, a swimming pool shaded by coconut palms and attentive staff happy to refill your glass on request, it’s no wonder that Louisiane Brewhouse is among the most popular spots for a beer and a bite in Nha Trang.

Lot 29 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Vietnam Tel: +84 258 3521 948

Email: info.louisiane.vn Web: louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

epicure vietnam 37

MAXIM’S DE PARIS

Celebrating French Art de Vivre

Maxim’s de Paris has a world-renowned reputation as purveyors of the finest French fare, dating back to the 1890s. Fortunately for local gourmands, Maxim’s traditional French delicacies are now available at the Takashimaya Center in downtown Saigon.

38 epicure vietnam
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

Maxim’s de Paris is the quintessence of French cuisine. The culinary legend began in 1893 during the beautiful times of the Belle Epoque with the opening of a small bar at 3 Rue Royale in the heart of Paris. The modest location quickly became the most famous and fashionable bistro in Paris, where the city’s rich, elegant and sophisticated elite came to see and be seen while dining on some of the country’s best cuisine.

Over the years, Maxim’s has been an intersection of decorative arts, music and fine dining, attracting generations of movie and music stars. Visiting celebrities have included Sylvie Vartan, John Travolta, Barbara Streisand, Maria Callas and French fashion maestro Pierre Cardin. Screenwriter Georges Feydeau drew inspiration from Maxim’s for his famous comedy La Dame de chez Maxim, or The Lady from Maxim’s.

Now with a well-deserved international reputation, Maxim’s de Paris has been a mythical symbol of the French Art de Vivre, elegance and refinement for more than 120 years. The famed restaurant now has two Parisian boutiques, at Butte Montmartre, 14 rue Norvins Paris 18ème, and Caroussel du Louvre place de la Pyramide inversée, 99 Rue Rivoli Paris 1er, where the elegantly designed locations combine Art Nouveau design with the brand’s priceless heritage. The two locations have an atmosphere where fine food is synonymous with pleasure, celebration and Parisian life.

Since 1893, Maxim's de Paris has developed high-quality gourmet products for the most demanding gourmands, selecting the best ingredients to enhance recipes developed by some of France’s finest chefs. In recent years, Maxim’s de Paris has expanded their range to include chocolate, delicatessen fare, wines and Champagne, and a selection of premium gift baskets.

True to their ethos of luxury living, Maxim’s have worked with artisan craftsmen and French chocolatiers to produce a magnificent selection of confectionery that truly exemplifies their savoir-faire

and talents. Maxim’s assortments of chocolates are prepared using certified pure cocoa butter to produce exceptional confectionery that is aesthetically stunning, elegantly presented and, perhaps most importantly, enticingly delicious.

Each year, Maxim’s introduces a new selection of novelties to their prestigious product range, constantly maintaining, renewing and improving the delicacies they offer so there’s always something new and enticing to choose from. Their premium quality food items are the ideal opportunity to celebrate, and at Maxim’s, there’s a gift for every occasion. Whether it is a simple dinner with friends, a gift for Mother’s Day, Valentine’s, Women’s day, a wedding or a special treat for Christmas, and New Year, their gift baskets and hampers are full of mouthwatering surprises that are guaranteed to light up the face of whoever they are gifted to.

The best of Maxim’s gastronomic delicacies are now available at the Takashimaya Center in downtown Saigon for PopUp Kiosk during Christmas and Têt Period, and will launch the first permanent Corner at Sofitel Saigon Plaza 5 Stars Hotel from September 2021. Displayed on the shop’s shelves are a tempting selection of Maxim’s finest produce, classic chocolates, tea, coffee and cookies, along with French regional delicacies including terrines, foie gras, and savoury specialities, fine wines, Champagne and more. France’s art de vivre has returned to Saigon through the legend of Maxim’s de Paris, make sure you don’t miss out.

epicure vietnam 39

UNQUESTIONABLY THE FINEST TRUFFLE EXPERIENCE IN VIETNAM

Fresh, black winter truffles are among the world’s most exceptional foods, indeed, it’s hard to think of anything more exquisite. Fortunately for local gourmet and bon vivant, Australia’s finest truffley goodness has now been introduced to Vietnam’s culinary scene courtesy of Le Truffle.

There has always been an air of mystique, intrigue and folklore surrounding the mythical black truffle. Originating in the Périgord region of France, they are now carefully cultivated in Manjimup, home of Western Australia’s first truffière, Truffle Hill, established back in 1997. A quarter of a century later, dedication, devotion, and a commitment to delivering excellence have made Truffle Hill the most respected and sought-after producers of black Perigord truffle in the world.

40 epicure vietnam
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

Nestled among gently rolling hills and award-winning vineyards, Truffle Hill estate produces the world’s best and most aromatic black Périgord truffles that compete even with those from the oak forests of Burgundy in France. Their tantalising aroma and exquisite taste enhance almost any dish and create the most unforgettable evening at home or at your favourite restaurant.

The air of mystique and temptation surrounding the black Perigord truffle has now made its way to Vietnam. But transitioning their truffley excellence to Vietnam’s culinary scene has been no easy feat. Fortunately, those yearning for a taste of these buried treasures are in luck. Le Truffle, Truffle Hill’s exclusive distributor in Vietnam, have overcome all hurdles to share their love for premium quality Australian black winter truffles with local gastronome.

We can thank Cass Gardner, founder of Le Truffle, for this welcome addition to the tables of fine-dining restaurants in Saigon. A native to Western Australia, based in Vietnam for the last 14 years, her passion for premium quality Australian produce with an authentic provenance is what lead her to become a purveyor of these black-coloured nuggets of culinary gold.

Each year, Truffle Hill host their Truffle Kerfuffle and open their doors to the public. Le Truffle are regular guests at this annual event, gaining a glimpse into the fascinating and secretive world of truffle farming. It was here that Cass learned how truffles are grown and hunted by specially trained sniffer dogs, checked for maturity, harvest and then dispatched to excited customers across the globe.

The commitment Truffle Hill has to quality and the superiority of their truffles is renowned in culinary circles globally and favoured by the most creative chefs throughout Europe, Asia, the United States, and of course Australia. Following the philosophy of Truffle Hill, Saigon based Le Truffle is all about bringing chefs together, collaborating with contemporary industry peers and pushing the truffle envelope to new and exciting territories.

Testament to their ethos of collaborative creation, Le Truffle has organised spectacular dining experiences in Saigon, including the 12 Hands Truffle & Wine Dinner hosted at The Workshop, and Monday Madness at the popular MAD Wine Bar, held in celebration of the fresh black truffle winter season.

Le Truffle’s truffles and condiments are served at many of Saigon’s top restaurants, and they have regular collaborations with other producers of fine foods. Besides the fresh black winter truffles available during the Australian winter season from June until August, those looking for an indulgent truffle fix can enjoy their truffle honey, truffle mustard, truffle aioli, truffle tapenade and truffle oil throughout the year. A touch of truffle can turn the ordinary into something truly exceptional!

If you’re in Vietnam, get in touch with Le Truffle at sales@letruffle.com

epicure vietnam 41

Coffee Perfection Brewed With Vietnamese Beans And Italian Expertise MULO

The story of MULO Artigiani del Caffè tells the tale of two Italian gentlemen who journeyed to Vietnam in search of coffee perfection. Combining Vietnam’s finest beans with Italian coffee roasting expertise, their blends celebrate the quintessence of Italian coffee culture and the art of espresso.

The name Mulo, the Italian word for mule, is taken from the offspring of a male donkey and a female horse. It’s a tough, resilient beast of toil, used in many countries for the transportation of coffee beans from plantation to farm. This strong, hardy animal gives its name to MULO Artigiani del Caffè, symbolising the hybrid combination of Vietnamese beans and Italian coffee roasting know-how.

Mulo was founded by Fabio Fasolo and Daniele Melito, two Italians who have come together with a shared passion for coffee. Fabio has a background in F&B management for luxury brands, which has taken him around Asia to countries such as Singapore, Taiwan, Hong Kong and now Vietnam. Daniele is a professional coffee roaster and an experienced barista who perfected his skills in the coffee shops of Rome and Taiwan. Together, they have the know-how and expertise to create some truly memorable coffees.

42 epicure vietnam
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

The duo hatched their coffee-preneurial idea while working together in Taiwan, and decided on Vietnam as their destination, believing that it’s the best country in Asia for working with coffee from farm to cup. They moved here in 2019 and spent the following year immersed in the country’s coffee culture, visiting farms, developing their business model, experimenting with roasts and selecting the best beans for their blends. Over time, they built relationships with farmers and established a direct-trade supply chain that provides complete traceability of their coffee beans, guaranteeing quality and preferential pricing that they can pass on to their customers.

The coffees Daniele blends are freshly roasted in small batches to customers’ specifications, so the final product maintains the distinct aroma typical of freshly roasted beans. Once roasted, the beans are ground to the size required for the intended brew method so that the best results from brewing and extraction are guaranteed each time.

Drawing on his extensive experience, Daniele has created 3 unique signature blends - Dolce Far Niente, Tenace and Fine Robusta, each showcasing the characteristics of their individual beans to the fullest. Dolce Far Niente or ‘sweet do nothing’ is a common term used by Italians and chosen as the blend contains a very high percentage of Arabica Typica, delicate and low in caffeine contents. Perfect even for afternoon time when you are in a ‘dolce far niente’ mood.

If Dolce Far Niente is the typical blend used for the delicate espressos of Northern Italy, then Tenace is its alto ego from the warm and passionate south of the country where more intense flavours are preferred. Tenace is the Italian translation of “tenacious-strong” and represents the characteristic of this intense blend. It is also representative of the mule after which the company is named.

To complete their three signature blends, the Italian duo decided to pay tribute to Robusta, the bean that has enabled Vietnam to become a world-class coffee producer. Made from handselected beans grown at elevations normally reserved for Arabic shrubs, Fine Robusta is a full-bodied, single-origin 100% Robusta coffee that combines the traditional nutty flavour of Robusta with subtle citrus undertones. If espresso or other Italian style of coffees are your choice, pick up a bag of MULO Artigiani del Caffè and enjoy the best of Italian coffee know-how artfully blended with some truly excellent Vietnamese beans.

epicure vietnam 43

STAR KOMBUCHA A Healthy Drink for the Epidemic Season

An ancient drink is making a re-appearance, especially among the health-conscious. Kombucha was first recorded over 2,000 years ago but is becoming increasingly popular as an alternative to sweetened soft drinks. Star Kombucha’s fruit flavoured drinks lead the way.

Kombucha is hot stuff at the moment, drunk by those in the know for its health benefits and zestful taste, but it’s actually been around for years. In fact, it first appeared in biblical times, around 2,000 years ago, in the Far East. Some say it was a toss-up whether the Three Wise Men gifted gold, frankincense and myrrh or bottles of this health-imbuing elixir.

So what exactly is kombucha, and why’s it all the rage at present? It’s actually a fermented drink made from natural ingredients such as tea, sugar cane and something called a scoby seed which is a symbiosis of bacteria and yeast. As well as adding a distinct flavour, when foods are fermented, sugars and carbohydrates are broken down under the effect of probiotics, thereby helping the body process nutrients well and eliminate harmful substances. It’s similar to brewing beer, but a lot healthier.

The fermentation of Kombucha from tea and scoby seed usually takes between 7-30 days done at room temperatures around 20-29°C. This helps to produce a large number of probiotics - one of the beneficial bacteria in the gut. As a result, kombucha helps maintain the stability of the immune system that prevents inflammation as well as aiding with digestion. Experts tell us that about 70-80% of immune cells are located in the intestinal tract and probiotics are the ‘weapons’ of protecting our gut. Keeping them healthy helps to keep us healthy, which is something we should all be focusing on during the Covid epedemic.

But it gets better. More than being a stronghold for boosting immune health, Kombucha is also considered a digestive enzyme that helps increase the number of beneficial Bifida bacteria in the intestine by producing natural organic acids. We’ve got no idea what Bifida bacteria are either but apparently, they are really good at increasing the resistance of the intestines. This helps reduce the risk of digestive diseases such as constipation, intestinal infections, digestive disorders, and treat ulcers of the intestines and stomach, and we know that’s important for our health.

44 epicure vietnam
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

Star Kombucha was the first kombucha brand in Vietnam to be produced according to US standards and formulas, certified by FDA. These standards are important when it comes to our health, so they quickly positioned themselves as a market leader among Vietnamese consumers, especially the young and those interested in healthy drinks. Star Kombucha also tastes great which certainly help with its popularity. Although kombucha on its own can taste a little sour, Star Kombucha comes in a choice of 12 natural fruit and herb flavours which help people get used to the sourness. Once they do, many find they love the zesty tang of this nutritious drink and find it more appealing than the sugary alternatives.

Of course, with local consumers becoming more interested in living a healthy lifestyle, many are actively looking for safe and healthy foods, especially during the current unpredictable epidemic. In addition to keeping your immune system fully in check, and your Bifida bacteria happy and healthy, Kombucha has many other benefits such as helping to reduce weight, keep you fit, rejuvenate your skin, purify the body, bring a source of youthful energy. It might not quite be the elixir of life, but it’s not far off either.

You can actually make kombucha at home if you can find someone to give you a starter scoby, but it can be difficult to control the nutritional quality, temperature and things like that. You might also be concerned about the correct food hygiene and safety conditions if you’re kitchen isn’t spotlessly clean. So if you want to give it a try, check out Star Kombucha. You can find a choice of their flavours at stores such as Co.opmart, GS25, Annam Gourmet and Aeon Mall, or order it directly from their company website and e-commerce store.

epicure vietnam 45

HÄAGEN-DAZS

Over 50 Years of Passion in Every Creamy Bite

An unwavering devotion to innovation and using only the finest quality ingredients has jettisoned a family-run company established half a century ago to become a world leader in creating ice cream experiences unlike any other.

Vanilla, Strawberry, Macadamia Nut, Green tea, Belgian Chocolate, Rum Raisin, Summer berries, Blueberries & Cream, ... and the list goes on. With a passion for crafting the perfect flavors and the creamiest textures using only the finest ingredients, Häagen-Dazs has been delighting the taste buds of the world for over 50 years. This global brand aims to offer an experience like no other - they make world-class ice cream that creates extraordinary moments for those who indulge in each spoonful of pleasure.

A trendsetter from the start, Häagen-Dazs set their own standards with a devotion to quality that changed the way people thought about ice cream. In 1960, at a time when others were cutting corners and pumping their ice cream with air, Reuben Mattus had a vision for changing the world of ice cream. With three simple flavors - vanilla, chocolate and coffee - the Häagen-Dazs brand was born. After that Mattus set his sights on strawberry, and finally after 6 years of searching for the perfect sweet red berries, this new flavor was launched in 1966. Ten years later, the brand introduced ice cream bars, delighting the world with a new way of enjoying this frozen treat. Continuing to progress and innovate, Häagen-Dazs has grown into a globally brand, donating more than $1,000,000 to initiatives to help the bees that pollinate many of the ice cream’s various ingredients as well beginning to phase out all GMO ingredients from its products, with the goal of becoming a completely GMO free brand.

That’s where Häagen-Dazs started and that’s what they stand by today. This means the best ingredients, for the ultimate flavor. For half a century, the brand has never wavered on the principles that made them who they are from the beginning. Today, the HäagenDazs brand continues to transform the finest ingredients into extraordinary experiences bite by bite.

46 epicure vietnam GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

DELICIOUS FRUITS

How Delicious Are Your

Fruits?

Greece has launched the Delicious Fruits initiative so Asian consumers can be confident their fruit is fresh, healthy and delectably delicious.

There is little more tempting than deliciously ripe fruit, fresh from the tree and full of natural goodness. But as consumers become more savvy, there is growing concern about chemical pesticides and preservatives in what they choose to eat. Many find themselves wondering just how fresh their fruit actually is.

While Europe implements the strictest quality and control standards throughout all of the production stages, the same can’t always be claimed in other parts of the world. To help reassure consumers, and promote their fresh fruit products, a promotional campaign has been launched by Greece with financial aid provided by the European Union.

Delicious Fruits was launched on September 1 2020 and will run in Japan, South Korea and Vietnam until the end of August 2023. Concentrating on apples and kiwis grown particularly in Northern Greece, the programme will help raise awareness of the high standards applied to production methods, all of which are fully compliant with internationally recognised standards. Of course, the initiative will also emphasise the natural benefits, taste and quality of fruits grown in Greece under the glowing Mediterranean sun. Greece has a centuries-old reputation for growing

mouthwatering, flavourful fruit, closely interwoven with its Mediterranean culture and way of life. Over the years, the country has developed some of the most efficient and effective ways of cultivation that enable them to produce high-quality fruit that win the respect and admiration of consumers globally.

The Delicious Fruits programme has been pioneered by The Association of Imathia’s Agricultural Cooperatives, a Northern Greece association of fruit producers based in the Prefecture of Imathia. Along with its eight founder members who have joined forces to develop their production and promotion potential, the organisation has a long tradition of cultivating and processing premium quality fresh fruit.

Fruit is a delicious and important part of our daily diet. Kiwis and apples from Delicious Fruits are crunchy, juicy and sweet-tasting, with a refreshing aftertaste, intense colours and rich aromas. All of nature’s goodness captured in every bite, and with confidence that they are fresh and safe for you and your family.

More information about Delicious Fruits can be found on their website: deliciousfruits.eu

epicure vietnam 47
48 epicure
vietnam
PHOTOS BEN&JERRY, GREEN COMMON, JUSTEGG, KARANA,MAGMUM, NEXTGEN, OATLY, GREENMONDAY,ONLYEG & THE VEGETARIAN BUTCHER, UNSPLASH
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

THE BASIS OF PLANTBASED FOOD

Taking a closer look at the fast diminishing gap between plant-based meat and dairy alternatives and their original counterparts, one food at a time.

It’s no secret that eating less red meat, and more fruit and vegetables is good for both people and planet, thus making plant-based foods and a flexitarian diet are some of the most used trending buzz phrases today.

What is a myth though, is the fact that a plant-based diet is synonymous with being vegan or vegetarian. In reality, a flexitarian approach allows for natural inclusion of diverse protein sources, in which regular meat and dairy are still permissible occasionally

in smaller quantities, putting a greater emphasis on plant-based alternatives. The key to making this supposedly healthier and more planet-friendly lifestyle change sustainable and more enjoyable in the long run, is to simply include more plant-based foods to an already healthy diet rather than making drastic diet changes, most of which will be unsustainable on a long-term basis.

Nigel Moore, Accor’s Senior Vice President F&B, SE Asia, Japan & South Korea said at the Accor collaboration with Green Monday last December, “A recent study of 27,000 people across 27 countries confirmed that three out of four people want to reduce their impact on the environment by a large amount, and a significant number of meat eaters would be willing to switch to plant-based alternatives if they taste equally good, and have the same price and nutritional value.”

While nuts, lentils, beans and chickpeas are table staples when it comes to plant-based building blocks, easy-to-cook alternatives such as Impossible, Beyond Meat and Quorn’s meat-free burgers, mince and sausages, are becoming increasingly popular with the younger generation, even while technically they are still considered to be ‘highly processed foods’. On the dairy side, plant-based milk, egg and ice cream alternatives are already very popular, but cheese and yogurt alternatives still have some way to go before becoming widely accepted.

Asia might only just be catching up to this fanatic plant-based trend, but it’s already proving to be a region to be reckoned with. “Asia is currently still behind markets like the USA and Europe with regards to the rise of flexitarianism, so we see it as just the beginning of a new paradigm,” says Andre Menezes, Co-Founder & COO, Next Gen Foods.

We take a look at the different players offering alternative meat and dairy options doing their part to protect the planet and to leave a lower environmental footprint as the world struggles to feed its population sustainably and nutritiously.

epicure vietnam 49
Next Gen founders

Green Monday Group launched Green Common in 2015 as the world’s first plant-based concept store, and has most recently opened Green Common, a brand new 3,000 sq ft plant-based concept store and café in Singapore last month, marking its first store in Southeast Asia and the 11th outlet worldwide. The one-stop plant-based retail outlet and café features several iconic brands and access to over 50 plant-based products including OmniMeat, Beyond Burger, Beyond Sausage, Heura, and Chick’n Nuggets by Alpha Foods. Last December, Green Monday Group partnered with Accor Group to bring OmniMeat creations to several of their hotels, including Raffles Singapore and Fairmont Hotel Singapore. Nigel Moore, Accor’s Senior Vice President F&B, SE Asia, Japan & South Korea says “Accor serves 200 million meals a year worldwide, which means that we have a dual responsibility in turning consumer thoughts and values into action, by making sustainable options more accessible. Our goal is to offer our guests healthy, sustainable food while eliminating food waste, and making healthy and sustainable food more affordable and desirable, and we are increasingly moving towards more plant-based offerings and experiences at our hotels.” He added that a decade ago, a vegan or casual vegetarian lifestyle would be deemed as strange. But now, it is normal and even a social standing positioning.

50 epicure vietnam
NoChicken Schnitzel with Fries Apple Cucumber Walnut Salad Green Common at Vivocity

THE WORLD OF FAUX MEATS

Beef

Two of the most popular names in this space are the ubiquitous Impossible Meat and Beyond Meat, as well as the recently launched The Vegetarian Butcher.

Beyond Meat (part of the Hong Kong-based Green Monday umbrella) is made up of a variety of plant proteins, including pea and brown rice, free of onion and garlic derivatives, with a product offering including Beyond Beef (mince), Beyond Meatballs, and Beyond Burger (patties). All Beyond Meat products are said to be antibiotic-, cholesterol- and hormone-free, boasting more protein and iron than animal meat, with 25-35% less saturated fat.

Hailing from California’s Silicon Valley under the parent company Impossible Foods, Impossible™ Beef is made of sustainable, wholesome ingredients including soy proteins, sunflower oil, coconut oil and heme, which gives Impossible products that unique meaty flavour. According to Laurent Stevenart, Country Manager Impossible Foods, Singapore, what differentiates Impossible Foods from other companies is its technology platform and world-class archive of knowledge of how meat works at the molecular level, thanks to nearly a decade of basic science and hard-core R&D. “Our scientists figured out the exact mechanisms by which the meat flavour is generated, and then used plants and other simple nutrients to recreate the same real meat flavour,” he says. “Other competitors share a similar mission with us, but a different approach with different products. Their approach is to create better veggie alternatives for target vegans and vegetarians, but our only target customer is the avid meat lover.”

Hence the heme which apparently has impressed even hardcore carnivores. “Heme is an iron-containing molecule found in both animals and plants, but is super abundant in animal tissue. We get heme from leghaemoglobin, the protein naturally found in soy roots, through a yeast fermentation process which is similar to rennet production in cheese making. And since everything is made from plants, our beef alternatives are free of cholesterol, animal hormones, antibiotics, artificial ingredients, and slaughterhouse contaminants,” says Stevenart.

The newest kid on the plant-based beef block in Singapore is The Vegetarian Butcher, thanks to a partnership with Unilever Food Solutions, and it is already sold in over 30 countries around the world since its launch in 2010. Interestingly the company was created after the 1998 outbreak of swine fever.

Jaap Korteweg, a ninth-generation farmer and founder of The Vegetarian Butcher, uses only soy (non-genetically modified soybeans), lupine, and vegetables grown on Dutch soil for his products. His range of plant-based beef alternatives available at The Social Kitchen, offer NoMeatballs and NoBeef Burgers, of which the latter is said to be seven times more sustainable than traditional beef.

“We get heme proteinleghaemoglobin,fromthe naturally found in soy roots, through a yeast fermentation process which is similar to rennet production in cheese making. And since everything is made from plants, our beef alternatives are free of cholesterol, animal hormones, antibiotics, artificial ingredients, andcontaminants.”slaughterhouse
epicure vietnam 51
Laurent Stevenart, Country Manager Impossible Foods, Singapore

FUN FACT

The irony: Plant-based burgers are increasingly similar to traditional beef burgers in terms of looks, flavour and especially when it comes down to counting calories, saturated fat and protein. Although some plant-based burgers do boast an additional 2-3g of fibre than regular meat patties due to their botanical base, they can also contain up to five times the amount of sodium compared to a regular meat patty, due to the large amounts of processing that goes into making a plant-based burger. Are we better off just eating regular meat in moderation?

Pork

Reputed to be the most popular and highest consumed meat in Asia, there are no shortage of faux pork options. The three most prominent players offering plant-based pork alternatives are Beyond Meat, Karana and OmniMeat.

Beyond Meat is perhaps even more popular with its faux pork range than with its beef options. Available are a variety of different flavours in the Beyond Sausage range, as well as the Beyond Breakfast Sausage, all of which use the same propriety building blocks as the beef counterparts, totally plant-based and vegan. With a firmer texture than its competitors, Beyond Meat is often considered to be the only choice for hot dogs and other sausagebased dishes.

Hong Kong’s plant-based lifestyle platform Green Monday Group, best known as the creator of OmniFoods and OmniMeat Mince in 2018, most recently launched its OmniMeat luncheon meat and pork-like OmniMeat Strip late last year to give consumers a healthier option in lieu of traditional canned pork luncheon meat. The more Asian-inspired OmniMeat focuses on pork alternatives with guilt-free products like OmniMeat Luncheon, made after a two-year comprehensive research study in Canada, and based on a proprietary blend of pea protein, non-GM soy, shiitake mushroom and rice, completely free of cholesterol, antibiotics and hormones.

“OmniMeat Luncheon is also 86% lower in saturated fat and 66% lower in calories than traditional pork, while being much higher in fibre, 260% higher in calcium and 127% higher in iron,” says David Yeung, OmniFoods Founder & Founder and CEO of Green Monday.

“OmniFoods is our own food innovation arm, with OmniMeat being a leading meat alternative product. We named our brand OMNI as our products can satisfy meat-eaters and vegans alike,” says Yeung.

“I was shocked when I read the United Nations’ report on the negative impact from the meat industry in 2016, coupled with Al Gore’s “Inconvenient Truth” documentary. As a vegetarian, I thought people must know this information, as this is related

52 epicure vietnam
David

to the collective survival of humanity on the planet. Yet back in those days, the awareness of the correlation between sustainability and food, particular meat consumption, was nonexistent. So, in 2012, I couldn’t wait any longer and launched Green Monday - both the mission-driven venture and the plantbased movement,” says Yeung.

Meanwhile closer to home and also inspired by Asian street food culture, home-grown Karana is the first company of its kind in Asia to create pork ‘meat’ from whole-plants to cater for Asian comfort food such as dumplings and char siu baos. Organic, Sri Lankan whole-plant young jackfruit is used to make the plant-based faux pork with minimal processing and minimal ingredients, setting it apart from other plant-based meat competitors who largely rely on commodity crops in highly processed forms. Unlike other plantbased products that rely heavily on heavily processed commodity crops like pea, Karana products retain the whole-plant nature of their biodiverse ingredients.

According to Blair Crichton and Daniel Riegler, Co-CEOs Karana, currently only about 150 out of 30,000 edible plant species and 12 crops are consumed, making up 75% of what we eat, and thus translating to a huge opportunity to explore and innovate around this biodiversity, much of it in Asia. “Our focus is on Asian applications, so we’re starting with pork-like products because pork is the top meat consumed in Asia. We want to prove that eating in a healthier and more sustainable way doesn’t mean sacrificing or compromising on what we know and love. We transform young jackfruits to mimic shredded lean pork loin, creating the comfort foods that consumers know and love here.”

“Young jackfruit is nutritious with a low glycaemic index and high in fibre, magnesium and potassium; an extremely efficient crop, with high yields and almost zero water usage, while being friendly to smallholder farmers as it is grown in a polyculture system. Can a humble char siu bao change the world? We believe it can,” say the CEO duo confidently.

“OmniMeat Luncheon is also 86% lower in saturated fat and 66% lower in calories than traditional pork, while being much higher in fibre, 260% higher in calcium and 127% higher in iron.”
epicure vietnam 53
David Yeung, OmniFoods Founder & Founder and CEO of Green Monday OmniMeat Luncheon Lasagna OmniMeat Luncheon Sushi at Mikuni

Chicken

“Meat-free innovations should not only taste good, but should also be healthy, nutritious and sustainable. What makes Quorn unique is its use of the highly-nutritious Mycoprotein, backed by expansive research and decades of development,” says Rufino TiamLee, CEO, Monde Nissin Singapore Pte Ltd. Texture plays a huge role in contributing to the overall multi-sensorial experience and consumer acceptance, and Mycoprotein’s natural ability to perfectly mimic the texture of chicken breast is a result of Quorn’s processes like steaming, chilling and freezing to bring out the naturally meatlike texture.

Made from a natural fungus that grows in the soil, fusarium venenatum, through the age-old process of fermentation, Mycoprotein is the more sustainable and alternative dietary protein source believed to be nutritionally high in fibre and low in saturated fat. It also boasts a significantly lower environmental burden, requiring 90% less land and water to produce when compared to

“From March 2021, Singapore will be the first city in the world to experience the next generation of chicken, made from plants.”
Andre Menezes, Co-Founder & COO, Next Gen Foods

animal proteins. “Our 2019 study shows that Mycoprotein also stimulates resting and post-exercise muscle growth more than milk protein, making it ideal for sports and exercise too,” says Tiam-Lee.

Additionally, with the meat-free movement gaining momentum globally, many new plant-based brands are increasingly placed under the spotlight by regulators, due to concerns over the use of GMO or carcinogenic ingredients in products. “As pioneers in the meat-free market, Quorn remains GMO-free and is the only meatfree brand with over 30 years of scientifically-backed health and environmental research, and remains free from harmful additives, artificial colours and flavours” adds Tiam-Lee.

Another newer player in the plant-based chicken space is Next Gen. Comprising only 11 components, Next Gen Food’s plant-based chicken uses simple non-GMO and non-novel ingredients, such as water, soy, sunflower oil and coconut fat. “From March 2021, Singapore will be the first city in the world to experience the next generation of chicken, made from plants,” says Andre Menezes, CoFounder & COO, Next Gen Foods.

DID YOU KNOW?

According to Menezes, Asia has had one of the widest adoption of meat-free options in the world, but until recently this was mostly driven by religion or affordability, with products that were not necessarily appealing to meat eaters. “The new generation of meat-free options that emulate meat in taste and nutritional values, is now becoming more popular in Asia, making it easier to reduce meat consumption without major compromises in terms of taste and texture,” he says.

Singapore-based Karana bagged top prize in the sustainability track at the Singapore 2019 Specialty & Fine Food Asia Fair for its use of abundantly available and sustainable ingredients found in Asia. Karana is also one of five start-ups globally to be selected to present at the Good Food Conference in San Francisco, and are currently part of the first cohort of start-ups in the Asian food tech accelerator run by Temasek backed Big Idea Ventures.

Finally, The Vegetarian Butcher also offers NoChicken Nuggets, NoChicken Burger patties and NoChicken Chunks, with the latter being the star of its product range.

54 epicure vietnam
Karana’s wholeplant jackfruit ‘pork’ filling

THE WORLD OF DAIRY Eggs

Float Foods, Singapore’s first food tech start-up developing plantbased whole egg substitute OnlyEg, is set to roll out its plant-based egg patty and shredded egg products in the year’s Q1, claiming to be the first of its kind to achieve this level of likeness to a real chicken egg, where the egg can be prepared and assembled in minutes into multiple styles. Vinita Choolani, CEO & Founder, Float Foods says “OnlyEg is a fully functional plant-based egg substitute, comprising legumes-based substitutes for both egg yolk and egg white as two distinct components.

Josh Tetric, CEO, Eat Just Inc, also says that the plant-based egg category didn’t truly exist before JUST Egg and describes his product as simply being a better egg. “It’s better for human health since it’s cholesterol-free, antibiotic-free and always non-GMO, but with the protein content comparable to a conventional egg.”

Eat Just Inc, a start-up producing sustainable plant-based Just Egg and other egg products from mung beans is launching a US$120m plant-based protein facility in Singapore in the first quarter of 2021, in partnership with Proterra Investment Partners Asia Ltd, an investment management firm focused on food and agribusiness sectors. “It took us five years to find it, but we discovered that the protein-rich legume mung bean magically scrambles like an egg. It has been in the food system for thousands of years but has never been used quite like this.”

Adds Tetric, “Our process began with identifying the different plants that we might want to use and bringing them in to build a diverse plant library. Sure, you could scramble tofu or mix a powder

OnlyEg prepared sunny side-up on a plate of fried rice

with water for eggless baking applications, but nothing else makes scrambles, omelettes, quiches, and much more. We’ve sourced plants from over 60 countries around the world, and looked at a vast range of molecular and functional properties of plant proteins and asked a lot of questions. What is the protein yield of the plant species? What is its thermal stability? Does it bind, or brown, or gel quickly in a pan? Does it melt like butter? And, most importantly, does it make family recipes taste even better?”

“The time for a real plant-based egg substitute is here and people can soon choose whether to have a chicken or a plant egg as a matter of normal routine. With OnlyEg for instance, they can enjoy the runniness of egg yolk oozing into their rice as usual, but now knowing that they are reducing their environmental footprint in a small but important way. This is a game-changer for both consumers and restaurateurs everywhere,” says Choolani.

The closest alternatives in the market are currently liquid blends of egg substitutes used for scrambled eggs and omelettes. OnlyEg’s claim to being unique compared to other egg alternatives is the fact that Float Foods focuses on delivering a fully functional whole egg solution with separate egg white and yolk components. “Current commercial egg alternatives typically come in a yellow solution that don’t allow consumers to recreate a whole table egg. Ours is a fully functional, versatile egg that can be cooked in all typical Asian styles. Unlike other egg alternatives, we believe in the concept of ‘Food as Medicine’, where OnlyEg egg is nutritionally equivalent if not higher than a chicken egg, in terms of the protein content and micronutrients,” says Mathilde Bancillon, Commercial & Partnerships Manager,” Float Foods.

epicure vietnam 55
JUST Egg bottle and box

MILK

Oatly

Singapore offers a slew of non-dairy and nut milk options, the most popular of which is probably Oatly. Launched in Singapore in late October last year, Oatly’s “The New Milk” campaign is based around the most common reasons cited for plant-based milks, including environmental sustainability, lactose intolerance and better nutrition.

Amanda Chan, Marketing and Communications Lead, Oatly Asia says, “Oatly’s history dates back to the early 1990s, when people couldn’t imagine the idea of milk produced directly from oats. Today, our range includes Barista, Chocolate, Enriched to Organic, all with maximum nutritional value and minimal environmental impact. Back in the ’90s, when we made the first oat milk product, we have been using our patented enzyme technology in our production process. This technology is still incomparable today, as it reserves most of the natural nutrients of the oats, especially the beta glucan.”

The ingredients for Oatly’s oat-based milk drinks comprise only oats, water and some sea salt, with no added sugar as the sweetness comes from the natural sugars in the oats. The oat milk is also fortified with vitamins and minerals such as calcium, potassium and vitamins A, D, B12 and riboflavin.

SUSTAINABILITY AND GLOBAL WARMING

There’s clearly no better time to make a difference.

“There is absolutely no doubt that humanity needs to find a solution to address one of the biggest challenges of the century: How do we feed 10 billion people properly using the only planet that we have access to? Many environmental issues – including deforestation, water and land consumption –are by-products of traditional farming methods. These inefficiencies contribute to 26% of human-produced greenhouse gas emissions worldwide. We believe that the answer to this question invariably involves developing technologies that are more sustainable than animal farming to produce tasty, delicious and nutritious food,” Andre Menezes, Co-Founder & COO, Next Gen Foods.

“Sustainability has never been more important, from reducing climate change to promoting biodiversity, especially when it comes to food, and our first base ingredient was carefully chosen with this in mind. Jackfruit is an extremely efficient crop with high yields and low water usage making it friendly to smallholder farmers. It is also typically grown intercropped, promoting biodiversity. 60% of jackfruit is currently being wasted, a contributor to global warming, so at Karana we’ll be reducing that wastage, while working with farmers to support the local economy,” Daniel Riegler, Co-CEO Karana.

“People are beginning to realise that we can do so much for the environment and for our health by incorporating plant-based foods into diets. The fact that plant-based food start-ups have managed to successfully replicate the taste profiles and textures of animal-based products, creates an added impetus for consumers to substitute animal products and encourage adoption in their lifestyle and eating habits.” Keshav Raj, Product & Business Development Manager, Float Foods.

“JUST Egg is better for planetary health too, as it requires less land, water and carbon emissions to make, and is one of the most sustainable protein sources on the planet,” Josh Tetric, CEO, Eat Just Inc.

56 epicure vietnam
Oatly Oat Drink Chocolate

Ice Cream

Chris Rivard, Global Senior R&D Manager, Ben & Jerry’s says, “Now in our fourth year without milk and cream, we use plant-based ingredients such as almond milk or sunflower cream and butter for that smooth and creamy product, as the almond and sunflower butter bases allow for better flavour building, without any aftertaste. Adds Li-En Chua, Country Business Lead, Ben & Jerry’s Singapore, “The current almond-milk-based options in Singapore feature regular classic dairy flavours such as Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough, Chocolate Fudge Brownie and Chocolate Caramel Cluster, but without the dairy”. “Our non-dairy, vegan range is made with non-GMO ingredients, Fairtrade Certified ingredients and are 100% certified vegan.”

Likewise, Magnum’s dairy-free range features a rich, pea protein based non-dairy product, ideal for flexitarians, vegans and lactose intolerant individuals also. A spokesperson from Magnum Singapore says, “The chocolate couverture in our ice cream is also made from sustainably sourced cocoa beans from Rainforest Alliance Certified farms, and Magnum Dairy-Free ice creams are vegan certified by the European Vegetarian Union, one of the bestknown vegan certifying bodies in the EU.”

And unsurprisingly, Oatly has also moved into the vegan ice cream industry. “Since the launch of our oat milk range in Singapore, we have also launched Oatly’s vegan ice-cream in Singapore, our first in Southeast Asia. Available in six flavours - Chocolate, Strawberry, Vanilla, Chocolate Fudge, Hazelnut Swirl, and Salted Caramel, free of dairy, lactose and soy ingredients,” says Amanda Chan, Marketing and Communications Lead, Oatly Asia.

KEY PLANT-BASED INGREDIENTS

While there are more ingredients at play here, we highlight the most common non-genetically modified building blocks of plant-based meats and what they really are.

HSoy protein – Also known as soy leghemoglobin, this protein is found in the roots of soybean plants, and is rich in non-heme iron (a type of iron found in many plants that is different to regular heme iron in meat). Soy protein usually forms the base of many plant-based burgers because of its ability to make fake meat “bleed” when cooked to mimic real red meat as far as possible. However, it is important to note that while soy protein is rich in iron, plant-based non-heme iron is absorbed at a much lower rate by our bodies than regular heme iron found in animal products. Hence the need to add vitamin B12, iodine, zinc, vitamin D and calcium to plant-based products, to better cater for vegan requirements.

H Pea protein – this is the most common type of vegetable protein used as an animal protein substitute. While pea protein has been associated with positive effects such as lowering cholesterol, it is a derivative of legumes, so can be an issue for those with a peanut allergy.

H Coconut oil – though once considered a superfood, it is important to remember that more than 80% of calories in coconut oil come from saturated fat, which is linked to high levels of the ‘bad’ low-density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol in the blood, causing issues such as clogged arteries and heart disease. The American Heart Association recommends consuming no more than 13g of saturated fat per day; and considering that a plant-based burger can have up to 20g of saturated fat (usually from a combination of canola and coconut oil), moderation is key here.

H Beet juice – red meat has real blood and plant-based burgers have beet juice to mimic the red colour of rare meat. Made from steamed, boiled or roasted beets, the healthy beet juice is brimming with good things such as folate, vitamin C, fiber and antioxidants, all of which can help protect against heart disease and some types of cancer. However, remember that the amount of beets used in plant-based meats is minimal, so a vegan burger isn’t your solution to being a major source of these important nutrients.

H Seitan – essentially a soy-free option, this processed wheat gluten is high in protein, low in fat, and rich in selenium, iron, calcium, phosphorus and copper. Even though seitan is made from wheat, its processing method keeps carbs to a minimum (think 4g/serving), but should still be avoided by those with a gluten intolerance or a celiac disease.

H Yeast extract – this brings the umami factor to plant-based meats with a unique savoury flavor typically associated with meat and seafood. And it also adds to the nutritional value, being an important source of vitamin B12, predominantly found in animal products such as meat, fish, milk and eggs, and critical for maintaining red blood cell production, converting food to energy and maintaining a healthy nervous system.

epicure vietnam 57

TO SUPPLEMENT OR NOT TO SUPPLEMENT?

Priyanka Elhence looks at the relationship between eating healthy and popping pills.

58 epicure vietnam
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE
“Supplements don’t cure or disease;prevent rather, as the name suggests, they nutritionalsupplement value and boost immunity in addition to healthy eating habits.”

Astrong immune system depends on a healthy diet, and the natural nutrients and fibre obtained from whole foods to provide the body with a wide range of vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals.

But what about all the vitamins and supplements available for better health? Unfortunately, the popular belief that popping pills helps maintain good health is not entirely correct. There are times when taking a supplement can be very useful – helping with food allergies and intolerance, during pregnancy or meeting nutritional requirements on a restrictive diet, for instance. But for healthy adults, the usual trifecta of eating a nutritious diet, exercising and getting enough sleep are the best ways for optimum immunity.

Pooja Vig, Functional Medicine Nutritionist and Clinic Director & Co-Founder, The Nutrition Clinic, says that getting enough sleep and following the circadian rhythm of sleeping before 11pm every night is just as important for the body to work at its optimal healthy state. The usual wired and tired, stress+sleep cycle means not sleeping enough and fighting fatigue all day, leading to a possible high-caffeine, high-sugar diet, with low levels of magnesium (which helps with muscle and nerve function, regulating blood pressure, and supporting the immune system).

Supplements don’t cure or prevent disease; rather, as the name suggests, they supplement nutritional value and boost immunity in addition to healthy eating habits. It would be more accurate to say that certified multivitamins help cover nutrition shortfalls, as long as they are medically prescribed. Inaccurate labelling is common in the supplement industry, especially when it comes to fish oils, probiotics, protein supplements and herbal supplements. In a 2019 study, researchers from the University of Auckland’s Liggins Institute reported that many fish oil supplements sold in New Zealand and Australia contained less than two-thirds of the Omega-3 fatty acids listed on the labels.

epicure vietnam 59

8/10

Singaporeans

According to a US National Library of Medicine 2017 study, almost eight out of 10 Singaporeans suffer from inadequate Vitamin D levels and don't even realise it.

Fortify your diet with these nutrientssuperpower

H Vitamin C

Everyone knows that vitamin C is critical for immunity as it supports a host of cell functions, lowers the risk of respiratory infections, and helps with growth and repair of body tissues by helping enzymes build collagen. However, since the body doesn’t naturally produce vitamin C, daily intake of it through fruits and vegetables is essential for good health.

H Vitamin D

There is ample medical evidence to show that vitamin D can help the body fight off respiratory illness, as it produces antimicrobial proteins that kill viruses and bacteria, found particularly in the respiratory tract. Vitamin D is also associated with improved muscle strength, a healthy immune system, better moods, regulating normal blood pressure levels, and reducing the risk of developing cardiovascular diseases and diabetes. While the wonder vitamin is generally harnessed from sun exposure, it is also found in salmon and other types of fatty fish, in milk and other fortified foods.

H Zinc

Zinc is vital in the development and function of immune cells. A study done by Medical News Today reported that animal sources of zinc (lean and skinless meats and chicken) are better absorbed than plant sources such as legumes (chickpeas, lentils, kidney beans) and wholegrains (oat, nuts, seeds, quinoa, brown rice). Why? Unlike chicken, legumes and wholegrains contain phytates, which bind to the zinc and slow down its absorption. However, soaking legumes and changing the water at least twice in a 24-hour soak effectively helps remove the phytates that leach into the water.

60 epicure vietnam
“I recommend eating fatty fish such as salmon and anchovies three times a week, or fortified eggs if your diet permits. The Linus Pauling Institute in Oregon also recommends a higher intake of vitamins C and D for boosting respiratory health, up to 400mg of Vitamin C and 2000iu of Vitamin D...”

According to a 2016 report in the Health Supplements Industry Association of Singapore (HSIAS), Daniel Quek, president HSAIS, said that Singaporeans spent approximately $594 million on supplements annually, with multivitamins, calcium and Vitamin C pills bringing in the highest sales. He added that if used appropriately, supplements could be a low-cost way to maintain health and reduce risks of several health conditions.

Jeremy McCarthy, Mandarin Oriental’s Group Director of Spa & Wellness, recently said, “Wellness has been a consumer macro trend for some time, impacting all industries prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, but recent events have brought health awareness to the forefront of human consciousness. People are becoming more motivated than ever before to explore new lifestyle behaviours for better immunity, stronger bodies and longevity.”

Indeed, immunity has become the new buzzword, as we look more seriously at our dietary lifestyle in search of superfoods, supplements and nutrients for a stronger immune system. When asked what difference vitamins and supplements made in boosting immunity, Bibi Chia, principal dietitian, Raffles Medical Group, says, “Omega 3 makes a difference, and it is also an essential fatty acid that is obtained through the diet. Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) is the most common omega-3 fatty acid in our diets, and good sources are flaxseed and walnuts. However our body's ability to transform it into EPA and DHA (the omega-3 fatty acids that help reduce inflammation and risk of heart disease) is limited. I recommend eating fatty fish such as salmon and anchovies three times a week, or fortified eggs if your diet permits. The Linus Pauling Institute in Oregon also recommends a higher intake of vitamins C and D for boosting respiratory health, up to 400mg of Vitamin C and 2000iu of Vitamin D, so supplements make sense here for such dosage.”

She adds, “It can be challenging to immediately switch to a diet which might have all the micronutrients needed to ensure proper functioning of our immune system, hence supplements can help sometimes. However, an 'immunity boosting' diet is simply a healthy balanced diet with a variety of nutritious foods from different food groups to ensure an adequate intake of all essential nutrients. Eating healthy is a good practice, regardless of COVID-19. We should still treat healthful foods as sustenance as they contribute to a larger part of our intake and hence larger exposure to our bodies. Having supplements with an unhealthy diet won’t help mitigate all the negative overall impact, but having a good diet with the right supplements and functional foods, definitely gives you a good start.”

$594 million

According to a 2016 report in the Health Supplements Industry Association of Singapore (HSIAS), Daniel Quek, president HSAIS, said that Singaporeans spent approximately $594 million on supplements annually.

epicure vietnam 61
Add these superfoods to your diet

H Red Bell Peppers

157%

Research shows that papaya is brimming with 157 percent of the daily recommended amount of vitamin C.

Echoing the same sentiments, Vig says, “Our immune system relies on nutrient-dense whole foods to function well, and we recommend plants as the foundation of each meal. Specific nutrients to help boost immunity are vitamins C and D, zinc and selenium. Add to that protein, and healthy fats such as nuts, seeds and olive oil. The use of herbs and spices, such as turmeric and oregano, are also encouraged, not just for flavour but also because of their immune-system-boosting properties. What we want off the plate are sugary foods which can depress the immune system for hours after being ingested.”

Vig also shines the spotlight on gut health as 75 percent of the immune system is in our gut, placing the gut at the core of body health. “The gut microbiome - the community of microbes that live in the gut - play a critical role in regulating our immune responses. Food sensitivities, inadequate levels of pre- and pro-biotics in the diet, and toxic overload (antibiotics, sugar, the pill, pesticides and pain killers) can all affect gut health. Stress also weakens the immune system, allowing infections and inflammation in the gut. Diet is key for treating the digestive system by restoring gut health and repopulating beneficial bacteria. In a poor diet, one of the most common foods that cause damage to the intestinal lining are gluten and unsprouted grains, as the latter contain phytates and lectins prohibit absorption of nutrients, eventually leading to food sensitivities and inflammation.”

“The World Health Organisation recommends a daily intake of 400g of fruit and vegetables, but people usually underestimate the power of plants being providers of micronutrients in our diet,” shares Chia. “For instance, sweet potatoes are a good source of vitamin A; red peppers are good for vitamin C; almonds for vitamin E; and lentils are a good source of folate. Other under-rated healthy foods are by-products that we discard or consider undesirable. For example, wheat germ is nutritionally packed but it is often milled away to create white flour for baking. Likewise for forgotten vegetables. Seaweeds and even Mandarin peels have bioactives - we just need to know how to use them.”

Unbelievably, red peppers contain twice as much vitamin C as citrus fruits, including oranges, as well as beta carotene (the main dietary source of vitamin A). Did you know COVID-19 attacks the cilia - tiny, hair-like structures - lining the lungs? Apart from being an essential component of proper immune function, vitamin A also helps strengthen and rebuild the cilia.

H Spinach

Another vitamin C, beta carotene and antioxidant powerhouse, spinach increases the body’s infectionfighting ability while protecting its immune cells from environmental damage at the same time. However, the vitamins and nutrients packed in spinach are easily destroyed by heat, hence best consumed raw or very lightly cooked.

H Garlic

Garlic’s immunity-boosting abilities stem from its heavy concentration of sulphur-containing compounds, which help lower blood pressure, reduce the risk of heart disease, and help fight off infections and the common cold. Chop or mash fresh cloves and let sit for a few minutes before cooking to allow the garlic to oxidise and activate its antiviral compounds.

H Probiotics and fermented foods

Probiotics and live microbes in fermented foods bolster a healthy gut, ensure better digestion and build a stronger immune system. Foods produced from simple lactic acid fermentation are loaded with nutritional goodness, so take your pick from yoghurt, kefir, kombucha, miso, and sauerkraut. Better yet, reach for products with live and active cultures for an extra boost of vitamin D.

H Broccoli

Just like spinach, this green powerhouse is also rich in vitamin C, packed with phytochemicals and antioxidants like vitamin E that support our immune system and help fight off bacteria and viruses. Best eaten raw or just slightly cooked.

H Mushrooms

Did you know mushrooms are often called the ‘sunshine vitamin’ as they are a significant source of vitamin D? Fungi also have high levels of certain antioxidants such as ergothioneine, an immune system stimulator; and glutathione in porcini and white mushrooms, which keeps the body’s immune system in top shape by ensuring optimum white blood cell function.

H Papaya

Research show that this humble tropical fruit is brimming with 157 percent of the daily recommended amount of vitamin C, along with carotenoids (vitamin A), folate and B vitamins. Papaya also contains the digestive enzyme papain, which has anti-inflammatory effects, helps heal wounds and is a natural pain reliever.

62 epicure vietnam

r ep r esents the vi e ws of the author only and is his/her sole r esponsibilit .y The Eu r opean Commission and the Consumers, Health, Agricultu

r e and Foo d E x ecutive Agency (CHAFEA) do not accept any r esponsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contain s

The content of this p r omotion campaign

Apples and kiwis: from the Mediterranean orchards of Europe, to your plate

European fruits produced in Greece are distinguished for their high nutritional value and their unique quality. The Mediterranean microclimate of the region with the mild temperatures, the sufficient rainfall and the abundant sunshine o ers the ideal conditions of production and cultivation, ensuring the superior quality and the unique taste of the produced fruits.

Apple and kiwi cultivation has been thriving in Europe for centuries.

In Greece, the accumulated experience of the producers, combined with the modern scientific methods and the strict European

s t andards of qualit y and control that are applied, ensure the s afet y and qualit y of the produced fr uit s Companies implement cer ti fi ed qualit y assurance s y s tems, in accordance w ith the national s t andards and the international proto cols AGRO 2, GLOB A L G A P, IF S , BRC and I SO 2 200 0. T his ensures the supreme qualit y of European fr uit s at all s t ages of their pro duc tion, har ves ting, packaging, s torage and s ale. European Fruits, apples and k iw is produced in Greece: add the ultimate healthy habit to your ever yday diet , in ref reshing juices, delicious t ar t s and s weet s but also f resh, ever y hour of the day !

1 tablespoon tahini (or peanut butter)

1 slice of wholemeal bread, toasted

5 thin slices of apple

Serving Suggestion | Apple Tahini toast INGREDIENTS toasted sesame pomegranate seeds cinnamon

1 teaspoon of honey

PREPARATION

Spread the tahini on top of the bread and add the apple slices. Pour over with honey Sprinkle with sesame seeds, pomegranate and cinnamon and serve.

deliciousfruits@gmail.com www.deliciousfruits.eu deliciousfruits.eu

HOS KITCHENWARES

Enhancing The Difference With Signature Hospitality Solutions

HOS Kitchenwares offers the welcomed convenience of a one-stop-shop for Vietnam’s growing HORECA sector with a tasteful selection of internationally branded kitchenware and hospitality equipment that meet the requirements of busy hotels, restaurants and cafes nationwide.

Enhancing the difference’ is what sits at the heart of HOS Kitchenwares’ business ethos. Taking inspiration from their unique interpretation of the word ‘hospitality,’ HOS was established in 2017 with the sole purpose of sharing signature hospitality kitchenware solutions with Vietnam’s rapidly growing HORECA sector. Since then, HOS has become the go-to provider of choice for many operating hotels, restaurants and cafes, and known as a leading importer and distributor of internationally branded tools and utensils for the culinary industry.

Offering clients the simplicity of a one-stop-shop for all their kitchenware needs, HOS’s product selection includes tableware, display and buffet equipment, an expansive choice of beverage receptacles, a collection of cooking and bakeware, and a choice of transportation and washing appliances and utilities. With international brands including Auenberg, Cambro, Efay, RAK and Heli, as well as domestic brand Cuong Phat, their range of products complement the aesthetics of any HORECA environment, tick all utility function requirements, and are optimised to meet the confines of even the tightest budget constraints.

A quick flick through their website (hos-kitchenwares.com), or a visit to their showroom at 51 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Ho Chi Minh City, offers a glimpse at the breadth of their product range, with essentials such as table flatware, serving trays, cups, glasses, holloware, plates and bowls, to more specialised items such as bar tools, pastry trays and decoration equipment.

SHOWROOM: 51 Phan Xich Long Street, Ward 2, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC Hotline: 0902 018 099. Website: hos-kitchenwares.com

64 epicure vietnam
GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

SUNSHINE EQUIPMENT

The Best Partner for Your Kitchen

Keeping an attentive eye on aesthetics, Sunshine Equipment provides bespoke kitchen and bar solutions that blend harmoniously into their surrounding environments while ensuring their clients’ operational requirements and sustainability expectations are prioritised.

Established in 2009, Sunshine Equipment quickly became recognised as a leading importer and distributor of industrial kitchen and bar equipment sourced from an impressive selection of international brands. Constantly driven by a desire to pioneer comprehensive solutions for entrepreneurs and businesses operating in the Food & Beverage sector, they offer a customercentric service to numerous clients in Vietnam and Cambodia.

While ensuring that kitchen operational needs are prioritised, the company also offers a design consultancy and works closely with their clients to provide equipment that is in harmony with the surrounding environment. Run by a combined Western and Asian management team in order to better understand client expectations, the company provides a client-support hotline operated 7 days per week by a dedicated and experienced After Sales Service Team providing immediate expertise and action. Constantly striving for

customer satisfaction at every step of their value chain, Sunshine also carries a large inventory of stock to minimise waiting time for instalment and are lauded for taking on board the sustainability requirements and expectations of their customers.

In 2014, Sunshine launched a second branch of activity, manufacturing their own range of personalised stainless steel products suitable for any HORECA kitchen environment or operational requirement, both in aesthetics and utility. Now stocking a range of kitchen equipment described as sophisticated and luxurious, and using cutting-edge technologies, their team of consultants provide not only a complete kitchen but also a maintenance and repair service to ensure peace of mind for their clients.

SHOWROOM:

47-49 Phan Xich Long Street, Ward 2, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC Hotline: 0919 170 173. Website: sunshine-equipment.com

epicure vietnam 65

AMANOI

The Epitome of Peace

Vietnam’s most exclusive hillside resort, standing on the dramatic coastline of Vinh Hy Bay, offers the weary traveller an idyllic sanctuary to escape the weariness of daily life.

Combining the Sanskrit-derived word for ‘peace’ with nơi, meaning ‘place’ in Vietnamese, Amanơi is a contemporary beachside resort with 9 pavilions, 18 pool villas, 6 residences and 2 Wellness Pool Villas, the lakeside Aman Spa and a Beach Club. Surrounded by the serene bucolic beauty of Vietnam’s southcentral coastline, this exclusive hillside resort epitomises the meaning of its name.

Poised on the rugged coastline of Vietnam’s Vinh Hy Bay, surrounded by dramatic hills and dense forests, the property is embraced by Nui Chua National Park, part of Ninh Thuan Province, renowned for its spectacular coastline and majestic mountain ranges. A protected marine reserve adjoins the National Park and is home to a large variety of sea corals, tropical fish species, hawksbill and green sea turtles. Positioned on a wide, mountainous

promontory of the National Park, Amanơi lies 55 kilometres south of Cam Ranh International Airport, providing convenient access to the region’s travel hubs and Vietnam’s domestic airports.

The resort’s spectacular Cliff Pool and the Central Pavilion housing the Restaurant, The Bar and a library are set on a hilltop with magnificent sea views, while the Beach Club, with its dining area and second swimming pool, flanks a private sandy beach. As befitting their environment, each of the resort’s dining locations serves superlative Vietnamese cuisine and refined international dishes, proudly showcasing the best of seasonal market produce and freshly caught seafood. Open for inhouse guests only, they offer spectacular settings for romantic dinners, snacks throughout the day, or contemplative signature cocktails as the glowing sun sinks slowly behind the distant mountains.

66 epicure vietnam
GOURMET TRAVELLER

From its hillside position, all of Amanơi’s guest accommodations come with impressive views – of Nui Chua National Park, the lake on the property, Vinh Hy Bay and the East Sea. From their curving roofs peeping above the treeline to their latticed windows and discreet natural materials, Amanoi’s Pavilions and Villas are immersed in the surrounding nature. Identical in layout and design, each Pavilion offers a combined living and sleeping area, as well as a timber sundeck with sun loungers. Their elegant, contemporary interiors feature traditional Vietnamese touches while sliding doors and picture-windows offer mesmerising views and bring the outside in.

The Aman Residences each consist of two to five free-standing bedroom pavilions, living and dining pavilions, and a large private swimming pool, making them perfect for groups of friends or family. A personal butler is ready around the clock to meet all guests’ needs. With access to the full range of Vietnamese spa treatments, the Residences draw on the grace and artful simplicity of Vietnamese design, surrounded by pristine jungle and the crystal waters of Vinh Hy Bay, just waiting to be explored by the curious traveller.

On the shores of a lotus-filled lake, Amanơi’s Aman Spa radiates an ambience of calm and rejuvenation, a place to escape the stresses of daily life and rebalance mind, body and soul. With five two-person treatment rooms, two hydrotherapy suites, outdoor relaxation pavilions and a finishing salon, the spa’s fitness options include a spacious, light-filled gymnasium, a Pilates studio and a lakeside yoga pavilion. There are also two outdoor tennis courts. For guests looking for an extra level of solitude, two secluded Wellness Villas serve as utterly private extensions of the Spa.

Throughout the year, Amanoi’s residency programme draws an international roster of holistic health experts and wellbeing practitioners to the spa to deliver a wide range of Vietnamese and international treatments in a peerlessly serene and scenic setting. Those searching for the ultimate in exclusive luxury to rest and rejuvenate need look no further.

epicure vietnam 67

REGENT PHU QUOC

Tribute to the Legendary Past

Infusing the soul of its location, Regent Phu Quoc’s new branding commemorates the legend of King Gia Long and his defeat of the rebel army.

Drawing influence from Ancient Chinese pottery and enhanced by bold, jewel tones, this stunning illustration embodies Regent’s redefined luxury.

68 epicure vietnam
GOURMET TRAVELLER

The Regent brand changed the face of modern luxury when it was founded over 40 years ago. A pioneer in hotel design, it created bold firsts that captured imaginations and set new standards in luxury hospitality. Expanding its luxury footprint, IHG Hotels & Resorts announced the acquisition of a majority stake in Regent Hotels & Resorts in March 2018 and brought the much-loved brand into the top end of its portfolio. Since then, IHG has worked to combine its expertise in luxury with Regent’s deep heritage and revered legacy, reimagining the brand by evolving it to appeal to the modern luxury traveller.

Its rebranding team gathered learnings from travellers and out-of-sector experts to redefine the future of luxury. These insights helped shape the design directions that resonate most with its guests and the brand, including a refreshed logo and design approach that delivers a deeply curated experience. The rebranded Regent is all about the beauty of contrasts, where discreet opulence redefines luxury tropes with nuanced contemporary design cues. The new visual identity evokes a golden era of decadence when the Regent story was set in motion.

The design narrative is conveyed through a new brand colour, Celadon, used in Ancient Chinese pottery and enhanced by bold, jewel tones. Iconic architectural and design features add a touch of elegance and a sense of the spectacular to each Regent hotel, complemented by signature flourishes tailored to each distinctive location, including bespoke illustrations. Developed to tell a different hotel story, each illustration depicts the hotel’s take on the legendary icon of its location or the wellestablished legend of luck. Combined, they will become part of the guests’ journey to discover a destination.

The illustration for Regent Phu Quoc is inspired by a king’s legend from this idyllic Vietnamese Island. The historical site of The King’s Well in An Thoi Town is said to have sprung into life in the 17th century when the last King of Vietnam, plunged his sword into a stone. Starved of fresh water and food, Lord Nguyen called out to the heavens whilst being pursued by local rebels. Upon removing his sword from the stone, a stream of freshwater magically erupted, and many rice fishes surfaced upon the sea saving the King and his army. He continued to rest and recover using Phu Quoc Island as a shelter, and eventually defeated the rebels.

Today, a stele has been erected next to the well and the King’s armchair sits at the exact location in Phu Quoc to commemorate this extraordinary event. The spring of water accompanied by lucky rice fish became local symbols of luck alongside pearls and peppercorns which are found in and around the island.

The illustration was created by Saddo, a renowned Romanian artist, and symbols used include freshwater stream and sea, Lord Nguyen and his sword, lucky rice fish, supported by black pearl and Phu Quoc peppercorn plant. Set on the waterfront, Regent Phu Quoc will open in Q2 2021 along the pristine white sands of Long Beach with views of Bai Truong’s Phu Quoc Marina, off Vietnam’s southwest coast.

The resort has been designed as a sublime haven, infused with the soul of the island, with suites, villas and facilities, world-class dining experiences, private beach, spa, pool and gym facilities. Nourishment is key, with six dining experiences celebrating a world of culinary tradition – including authentic Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine; Oku, a Franco-Japanese Salon de Boeuf; and apothecary-inspired cocktails crafted with fresh botanicals and an abundance of local Vietnamese herbs at Bar Jade.

epicure vietnam 69

L’AZURE

The Mediterranian Muse of Phu Quoc Island

Tripadvisor award-winning L’Azure Resort & Spa Phu Quoc takes beachside living to a whole new level. Advantageously situated in the town centre, but a haven of calm and tranquillity right on the ocean’s edge, this small and elegant resort is a favourite for all who visit.

70 epicure vietnam
GOURMET TRAVELLER

Conveniently located on Tran Hung Dao street, right in the heart of the bustling Duong Dong Town on Vietnam’s Phu Quoc Island, L’Azure Resort & Spa Phu Quoc is nestled quietly and humbly under the expansive shade of a lush green tropical garden and just metres from the crystal waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

Unlike many of the island’s resorts, L’Azure turns its back on high-rise buildings and the glittering lights of busy tourist areas to provide guests with a tropical haven of peace and tranquillity. As guests arrive at L’Azure, they are greeted by a welcoming environment of calm relaxation that sets the tone for their coming vacation, and ensures an atmosphere of rest and rejuvenation in harmony with the sounds and colours that surround them. In keeping with its name, L’Azure Resort & Spa Phu Quoc has an air of the Mediterranean about it, decorated tastefully with blues and whites that compliment the ocean and clouds.

The resort’s accommodation offers a collection of stylishly decorated rooms along with conveniently located villas, tucked among well-groomed gardens and towering palms and all within a stone’s throw of a sandy beach. Well-situated Deluxe rooms offer a choice of garden or sea views, ideal for leisure travellers who love a bijou space with the sweet-smelling scent of a fresh garden greeting them in the early morning. The larger Executive Suites provide the ideal place to hide away from the daily stresses of a hectic city life with comfortable bedrooms, stunning bathrooms and a spacious living rooms to spread out and relax.

Stepping up the accommodation options are a selection of villas with jacuzzis or private pools that offer the perfect escape for a romantic weekend for two. Comprising a spacious area with a large King-sized bed, an outside terrace for sundowner cocktails, and a balmy jacuzzi or pool to wash away your troubles, these are an ideal choice for couples to enjoy some loving alone-time together.

L’Azure is a place to let go of life’s worries, to close your eyes and

listen to the peaceful sounds of the surrounding nature, the wind gently blowing through the palms and the sounds of endless waves that sing the songs of the ocean.

As the day ends and dusk starts to fall, make your way to the resort’s beach bar for a sundowner cocktail, or for dinner at the Bistro Le Jardin Bleu with views over the golden sands and glistening sea. Sit back and watch the sun dip serenely over the horizon and into the ocean’s calm waves - if life on Phu Quoc is like a dreamy artist, then the splendid sunsets are the island’s muse. L’Azure offers the epitome of beachside living - relax and enjoy the very essence of tropical island life with your family or loved one.

epicure vietnam 71

GLAMPING

When A Night Under Canvas Comes With Glamour And Comfort

Many of us enjoyed camping when we were younger, but now we need a little more comfort when we take a short break from city life. Fortunately, camping in Vietnam has got glamorous.

Anight spent under canvas, on the shores of a lake or a beach, surrounded by the sounds of nature and below a starstudded sky is an experience most of us will have had at some point in our lives. Many of us have fond memories of leaving the hectic city for a couple of nights spent in a tent, building a campfire, fishing for dinner then cooking a BBQ with friends. But let’s face it, as we get a little older, camping doesn’t have quite the appeal it did when we were younger.

There’s a lot to carry, even for just a couple of nights. Sleeping on the hard ground plays havoc with our ageing backs, insects find their way into the food, walking to the bathrooms in the pitch dark is not much fun, and when you get there the shower water is always cold. We miss the comforts of home, a decent bed, mosquito net, perhaps even an en suite bathroom. Somewhere to eat a hot meal so we don’t have to play around with a fire, and a good wifi connection.

72 epicure vietnam
GOURMET TRAVELLER

If you’re looking for a back-to-nature experience but want to comforts of at least a half-respectable hotel, then a night or two glamping may just fit the bill. The origin of this term is a combination of the words camping and glamorous. In a nutshell, glamping is upmarket camping with a touch of luxury thrown in to make your home-away-from-home a little more comfortable than the average run-of-the-mill tent. Over the last decade or so, it’s become popular for many wanting an escape from urban life without the complications of pitching a tent or building a fire.

Vietnam’s glamping options are numerous and varied, but the chances are they’ll include a real mattress, running water and a proper toilet rather than a makeshift hole in the ground. Sometimes you’ll be sleeping in a wooden cabin, or a large safari tent, or perhaps a traditional rigged-framed yurt, popular throughout much of Asia. You’ll probably have electricity and wifi, there might be a fitted kitchen, and perhaps an outside seating area to socialise with friends or family. It probably won’t be fivestar, that’s for sure, but you’ll have many of the services you’d expect from a hotel or resort, and a lot more glamorous luxury than your average camping trip.

As the idea of glamping starts to attract those who might normally stay in a hotel, more and more glamping sites are starting to crop up in some lovely locations around the country. Below are a few of the more popular ones.

CAMPART BY MỢ JEN

CampArt by Mợ Jen is a magical lakeside glamping site set deep in a forest, surrounded by hundreds of towering pines trees with large canvas tents raised on platforms dotted between them. Although not the height of glamorous luxury, the site prepares everything you will need for your glamping experience from tents and blankets to torches, chairs and tables.

The vibe of the resort is complete relaxation so the atmosphere is quiet and serene, and although popular with couples, there are plenty of opportunities to mix and socialise with fellow glampers. As dusk falls, staff walk the site helping guests to light their campfires as the evening chill sets in. This is the time to grill your potatoes, chat amongst friends or listen to music. If you don’t want to cook for yourself, there’s an onsite restaurant serving dishes such as steak, smoked goose breast, spaghetti, and mushroom soup. During the day there’s plenty to keep you leisurely occupied. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can rent canoes to explore Tuyen Lam lake, take a trip to nearby Cu Lan village, or hike up to the lonely pine. Each night, CampArt only accepts 30 guests so make sure you book in advance.

Suoi Vang Lake, Lac Duong, Lam Dong Province.

Facebook: CampArt by #MợJen

epicure vietnam 73

LAK TENTED CAMP

Nestled on a small hill overlooking the picturesque Lak Lake, Lak Tented Camp is located in Dak Lak Province, about 50km south of Buon Ma Thuot City airport and about 160 km north of Da Lat, both easily accessible with short flights from Saigon. This really is an oasis of calm for those wanting to escape their bustling city life and reconnect with nature, if only for a night or two.

Accommodation choices include tented and wooden lodges that tastefully combine rustic and elegant designs, with comfortable beds, en suite bathrooms, electric fans and balconies that offer splendid views over the lake and surrounding countryside. The perfect spot to enjoy your morning coffee or evening sundowner.

Lak Tented Camp has been set up with the purpose of preserving the integrity of local culture as well as the natural environment. Each wooden bungalow is named after one of the ethnic villages that surround Lak Lake and depicts its own story of local culture and art. With a higher level of comfort than the tented lodges, bungalows are the perfect choice for honeymooners or holidaying families.

The resort’s restaurant is located in a traditional wooden longhouse with a menu offering both Vietnamese and Western cuisine. Activities on offer also showcase the Central Highlands way of life and include a half-day trip to the historic coffee trails of Dakphoi.

193 Nguyen Tat Thanh Street, Lien Son, District de LAK, Daklak Province

Tel: (+84) 908 376 4364

74 epicure vietnam

GLAMPING DAI LANH BEACH

What could be a better way to greet the morning than throwing back the covers of your tent and stepping out just metres away from the golden-white sands of Dai Lanh beach. Utter bliss and an Instagrammer’s heaven.

If you’re a beach lover, Glamping Dai Lanh Beach takes glamping to the next level. Located on Dai Lanh beach just north of Nha Trang, the site is on one of the most naturally beautiful beaches of the region, with tented accommodation positioned among a plantation of coconut palms.

Each tent is placed above the sand on wooden platforms that extend outwards to create decking areas with chairs and tables for socialising and relaxing. Minimalist in design inside and out, the tents are furnished with bamboo beds, chairs and tables, and although they don’t have en suite bathrooms they are certainly a cut above the average two-person tent. The site has a community vibe and there are plenty of opportunities to interact with other guests, on the beach, or gathered around the campfire for evening sing-alongs and chats.

There’s a selection of food and beverage available, and if days spent relaxing on the beach is not you’re thing, there are plenty of fun activities on offer such as kayaking, jet-skiing, and fishing.

Dong Nam, Dai Lanh, Van Ninh Khanh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Province

Tel: (+84) 2583 842 117

TANYOLI

Tanyoli describes itself as an experiential resort, and a stay at Tanyoli will take you on a journey of self-discovery where you’re immersed in a vast space of heaven, sea, mountains and sand dunes.

Tanyoli is more than just a glamping site so there’s plenty on offer to keep you occupied during the day. Located in Son Hai village, Thuan Nam, Ninh Thuan, the local area is steeped in natural beauty with towering sand dunes, pristine clear beaches and the majestic Truong Son mountain peak. The full site covers 15 hectares and includes an amusement park that offers adventure games such as archery, high wire, zipline, and off-road driving.

There’s a choice of accommodation depending on the level of comfort you’re after. Dreamy wooden huts are tucked in among the undulating hills, small, cosy and suitable for groups of three adults or small families. Lined with Swedish style wooden panelling, the huts have en suite bathrooms and refreshment facilities provided. Also available are 30 square metre Mongolian style yurts that comfortably accommodate up to six people. Beautifully decorated, cosy and comfortable, each tent is equipped with an air-con system to ensure you get a perfect night’s sleep. There’s plenty of entertainment to enjoy before you hit the sack, with nightly singalongs, historical story-telling and a selection of food from the local region served nightly.

Km 19, Son Hai, Phuoc Dinh, Thuan Nam, Ninh Thuan Province

Tel: (+84) 90 182 0114

epicure vietnam 75

LU GLAMPING PHAN THIẾT

LU Glamping is one of the closest glamp sites to Saigon, located about 30 km south from Pham Thiet, heading towards La Gi and close to Ke Ga lighthouse and Tien Thanh beach resort. The site is approximately 4 hectares in size, backed on one side by rolling mountains, surrounded by a beautiful melaleuca forest and perched upon its own long white-sand beach. This is a place for sea lovers where bed-to-beach living becomes a reality.

The spaces are basic and it’s only a small step up from the comfort of camping in a tent, but if you’re looking to experience something new, at a very affordable price, and just a hop skip and a jump from the water’s edge then Lu Glamping is worth some serious consideration. There’s a bar on-site and freshly caught local seafood sizzles on the BBQ at various times during the day.

Ke Ga, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Province

Tel: (+84) 963 791 212

COCO BEACH CAMP

One of the finest glamping destinations in Vietnam, CoCo Beach Camp is just 160km from Saigon in Lagi, Binh Thuan Province. Despite its proximity to Saigon, Phan Thiet and Vung Tau, stepping through the resort’s entrance is like stepping into another world where beachside fun is everyone’s top priority.

The glamp-site offers an unforgettable vacation experience— glamping on the beach in Boho, Gypsy and Rustic style tents, eating delicious food and drinks, and falling asleep to the murmur of waves. The tents at CoCo Beach are equipped with portable air conditioners and each has a capacity of five to 15 people, making them suitable for couples, families and groups of friends.

The resort has a bit of a party vibe, with a popular beachside bar serving ice cold beers and signature cocktails and regular events drawing crowds from Saigon. When the partying is done, there are plenty of activities on offer to keep you occupied, or just kick back, relax, and enjoy the expansive beach.

Le Cong Minh Street, Tan Phuoc, Lagi, Binh Thuan Province

Tel: (+84) 93 316 3333

76 epicure vietnam
78 epicure vietnam

MICHELIN’S EXPERIENCE AT THE LEADING SQUARE ONE RESTAURANT

Since childhood, French Chef Adrien Guenzi has been fascinated by culinary art and has honed his knowledge and expertise working with the world’s top Michelin chefs.

He now joins Park Hyatt Saigon as Chef de cuisine, running French Kitchen at Square One Restaurant. Here he shares his thoughts about bringing the world of French gastronomy (together with Michelin references) to Saigon.

How did your culinary career start and what led to you taking a role at Flocons Village restaurant, owned by three-star Michelin Chef Emmanuel Renaut, at the age of 26?

My career began many years ago in my hometown of Lyon in France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. The city is famous for its Lyonnaise cuisine and is considered by many to be the culinary capital of France. I applied for the role of Head Chef at Flocons Village when I heard the position was available as I wanted to challenge myself and this was a great opportunity to learn and show what I am capable of.

Since Flocons Village, you have worked with some of the world’s top Michelin-star chefs – what has brought you to take the role of Chef de cuisine at the Park Hyatt Saigon?

The role with Park Hyatt Saigon is a wonderful opportunity to share my personality and experience through cooking. It also gives me the chance to live in this fascinating country and discover its exciting culinary culture.

What are your first impressions of Vietnam and Saigon’s culinary scene?

The culinary scene in Vietnam is hugely diversified and varied and the country is destined to become one of the world’s top destinations for food. Saigon’s restaurants have increased in number and variety over recent years, making it a regional must-visit for international foodies.

How do you compare working at Square One with other restaurants where you have worked?

We have two open kitchens at Square One, which means interacting and connecting personally with our guests is an important part of their dining experience. Sustainability, seasonally rotating menus every quarter and new experiences created weekly make it enjoyable for all, and it means we can offer individualised and personalised attention to those who come to dine with us.

epicure vietnam 79
CHEF MASTERCLASS
The classic Pâté en Croûte

In both Vietnam and France, meals are often seen as an opportunity to connect with friends and families - what other similarities do you see between French and Vietnamese culinary experiences?

Shared dishes and communal eating with friends and family are a great way to connect and bond over food. As well as this, both countries focus on the quality and freshness of their ingredients.

What challenges do you face in cooking French cuisine in Vietnam and how do you intend to overcome them?

When preparing food for fine dining guests, every detail counts. Maybe the biggest challenge I face is that sometimes it can be difficult to find the right ingredients to make sure each dish is perfect.

Do you believe there are significant differences in serving French food to diners in Saigon compared to other cities in the world, especially London?

Saigon diners are more relaxed than in many other places and take the time to fully appreciate their meal. Perhaps the biggest difference between Saigon and London is that diners in London do not share much, except the bill!

Having worked with some of the world’s top chefs, what are the values and characteristics you think makes them truly great?

One thing they have in common is their ability to match ingredients, finding the perfect balance and squeezing out every bit of flavour while cooking. Of course, each adds their own personality and style to this.

80 epicure vietnam
Square One’s signature: Muscovy Duckling Square One’s signature: Muscovy Duckling

Can you share any memorable experiences working with Michelin-starred chefs that have inspired you in some way?

One of the most inspiring memories I have is Emmanuel Renaut’s passion for nature which helped me appreciate the importance of respecting our natural surroundings. Nature gifts us beautiful vegetables, meat and fish so we must care for it and always look to be more sustainable.

In March, you introduced an a la carte menu for lunch and dinner at Square One. Can you share some of the highlights of this menu, as well as the inspiration to create dishes exclusively for Square One?

There are 3 dishes that I am particularly proud of, the beef & tuna tartar, the braised beef cheek and bone marrow and the Muscovy duck. They all come from traditional dishes that I have twisted with my own identity for Square One.

Vietnam is renowned for its diverse and rich cuisine. How are you drawing on this to influence the menu and dishes you create at Square One?

Of course, I spend a lot of time tasting Vietnamese dishes and discovering new flavours and ingredients. When something stands out, it automatically pops into my head when I’m creating new recipes.

Saigon’s food scene has expanded tremendously over the past few years - what do you think Vietnam, and Saigon in particular, lack to become a mecca for Michelin chefs?

I think Vietnam and Saigon already have what they need to attract Michelin star chefs, but sometimes diners can be reluctant when dishes vary from what they are used to. Still, people here love new experiences and soon fall in love with innovative concepts and recipes.

What 3 words would you use to describe your cooking style? Fresh, Humble and Precise.

epicure vietnam 81
Chef’s recommended: Bone Marrow Chef’s recommended: Steak & Tuna Tartar

MEXICAN FLAIR AT MIA SAIGON

Young and passionate, Executive Chef Julio Gomez joined Mia Saigon in March 2021. In just a few short months, he has shared his Mexican flair with a love for Vietnamese ingredients to provide his guests with exceptional food and service.

82 epicure vietnam
CHEF MASTERCLASS

Why did you decide to join Mia Saigon as their Executive Chef?

I heard about this property a couple of years ago and I really liked the boutique concept, where luxury and quality go together. Every single detail in the hotel has been carefully planned with the goal to impress - from the very first time I visited I was struck by the decoration, inspiration and style of Mia Saigon. It made me wonder if I was really in Vietnam. The attention to detail and the goal of perfection match my cooking philosophy - every dish I prepare for dinners here should create memories of the food and Mia.

What have you brought to the development of Mia Saigon as its Executive Chef?

Besides the cooking experience, I have encouraged a new mindset and team spirit for the culinary team. I feel I’ve given the team fresh confidence that has helped lift them to the next level with their cooking, and a focus on providing our guests with unique and memorable dining experiences.

What is your plan to make the dining experience at Mia Saigon one of the bests in Saigon?

My mom always tells me, “there is nothing better than a plate of good food,” and she’s right. Food creates feelings, emotions and memories that are complemented by exceptional service. I’m focused on creating that unforgettable experience.

How can you improve and develop a culinary team as the Executive Chef?

Not everyone has the chance to experience a 5-star resort or restaurant, and it’s my responsibility to make sure my team understands what we are doing and where we are going. I’m the link between my team and our guests - my role is to make sure we meet and exceed our guests’ expectations, both for service and our culinary offering.

How do you test the quality of your ingredients and control the food’s quality?

Firstly, my team needs to understand their ingredients and where they come from - how an animal is bred, where the vegetables are grown. They have to understand every step of the cooking process, from sourcing to cooking, plating and serving a guest. Only when they understand the past can they create the future. Once the process is understood we can be consistent, as a chef, restaurateur or hotelier, consistency is the challenging part and the secret to success. No matter the time, day or seat, we need to be consistent and work towards perfection.

Can you please describe your cooking style?

I try to put my Mexican roots into every dish I prepare - fresh, spontaneous, colourful, vibrant and delicate. I’ve been in Asia for about 9 years, discovered new flavours and worked to create a delicate balance that gives exceptional results.

When do you feel happiest at Mia Saigon?

When the team shares my goals and mindset and we work together, faster and more focused. Of course, I love it when guests stop me by the pool and compliment the food. This means the team is doing a good job which makes me proud and happy.

How involved are you in the financial aspects of the hotel business as the Executive Chef?

It’s important I’m involved in the finances, it’s part of running a successful kitchen. It can be difficult and a challenge for some, but I believe there’s always a starting point from which we keep learning. It’s important to know when to save and where to spend - following the rules results in good business performance!

Thank you for the interview and we wish you all the best at Mia Saigon!

epicure vietnam 83

THE CULINARY MAESTRO

Chef Jason Tan further elevates the role of botanicals with his recently unveiled Gastro-Botanica 2.0 at his newly opened Restaurant Euphoria. Once again, the culinary maestro seamlessly melds classic, traditional flavours with cutting-edge innovation for botanicals re-imagined.

84 epicure vietnam
CHEF MASTERCLASS
Chef Jason Tan

Jason Tan took the culinary world by storm in 2014 with his gastro-botanica cuisine, an innovative avant-garde philosophy that celebrated botanicals in their own right, shining the spotlight on the infinite possibilities of humble vegetables and elevating them to an equal status as that of proteins - a definite first for diners and chefs alike.

Trained in classical French cooking and having worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants throughout his career, Jason is the first and only Singaporean chef to be awarded the Michelin star four years in a row, as well as being ranked for five consecutive years (2016-2020) on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants during his tenure as chef and co-owner of the Corner House at the Singapore Botanic Gardens. It was in the lush environs of the UNESCO heritage gardens that Tan invented his famed gastro-botanica cuisine.

And now with the recent opening of Restaurant Euphoria in November 2020, Tan unveils Gastro-Botanica 2.0, which not only builds on the original classic role and significance of botanicals, but takes them further. He marks his evolution from chef-owner to restaurateur and entrepreneur as he sets the stage for an elevated version of his original culinary vision, complete from concept and design to cuisine and tableware by drawing on his local roots, Asian insights and extensive international travel experiences. Even the restaurant’s lush indoor garden interiors subtly pay homage to the onion and its pliant luminous layers, which have become a metaphor for his own personal quest to always ‘peel away’ to new discoveries and breakthroughs.

Coming full circle, the edible Dancing Orchid, one of the first Oncidium hybrids developed by the Singapore Botanic Gardens in 1939, is now a varietal exclusively grown for Jason to showcase his gastro-botanica cuisine. His amuse bouche of a wave-shaped feuille de brick studded with vegetable purée and Baerii caviar, garnished with the orchid makes it the star.

With this 2.0 version, Tan reinvents pure vegetable extraction and reduction meatless sauces, shattering the boundaries of haute French cuisine by moving away from its pillars of heavy mother sauces and jus. Collectively named Gastro-Botanica Essences-La Symphonie de Légumes, his four pure botanical essences comprise Légumes Demi-Glace (brown), Légumes Vin Blanc (white), Légumes Emulsion (emulsion), and Légumes Essence (pure and clear).

What inspired you to create gastro-botanica in 2014?

In 2014, as chef and co-owner of Corner House, I launched my culinary philosophy of gastro-botanica, a cuisine based on contemporary French techniques with global ingredients and influences, where I present a gastronomic experience of carefully sourced and prepared premium vegetables, meats and seafood; with botanical elements of vegetables, tubers, herbs, spices and fruits given prominence and special elaboration on the plate. Looking back, no one would believe I used to dislike vegetables, until I tasted a Cévennes onion for the first time while working in a fine-dining restaurant. I was amazed how sweet and delicate it was and it singularly changed my mind about vegetables, kickstarting the gastro-botanica journey. From that moment, I wanted to elevate onions (and vegetables) from being the sidekick to becoming the protagonist on a plate. They made me realise that vegetables, like the metaphorical onion, can unlock amazing flavours and create gastronomic wonders if you take the time to ‘peel them layer by layer’.

How did the Cévennes onion spark your passion for edible botanicals?

Besides the fact that Cévennes onions are sweet and less pungent, I also appreciate that onions are unassuming, humble, versatile, and adaptable to all cuisines. I would like to see myself embody the values of an onion!

epicure vietnam 85
Sweet corn

How do you balance classics while further elevating the role and significance of botanicals?

In order to evolve, we must first develop a strong foundation of the classics and understand flavour creations. By introducing GastroBotanica Essences – La Symphonie de Légumes, layers of flavours and nuances are extracted by the roasting, steaming, boiling and dripping of over 30 different vegetables, with the addition of select herbs, spices, seeds, olive oil, white wine, red wine, fruit zest, salt and butter. 30kg of whole vegetables go daily into extracting 2L of essence, which forms the backbone of Gastro-Botanica 2.0 cuisine creation.

Name a memorable discovery on your journey to developing Gastro-Botanica Essences

Actually the Gastro-Botanica essences was a relatively quick and organic process. When I was creating my first few dishes with the team, we had naturally created sauces that were botanicallyfocused, I realised this natural progression and decided to pursue and push towards this direction in more depth. We realised we were able to create a series of botanical sauces with great flavours, hence the apt name Gastro-Botanica Essences – La Symphonie de Légumes, as the flavours came together like a symphony of flavours.

What’s your inspiration behind the stunning Oignon Jamboree creation?

Onions are my favourite vegetable, and my 2014 signature dish, ‘My favourite Vegetable,’ featured Cévennes onions in 4 ways – in an onion cup with a 62 degree egg and black truffles, on a tart, in a chip and infused in a tea. When I conceptualised the new menu for Restaurant Euphoria, I wanted to create a new onion dish, and challenged myself to create one using five different varieties this time. Hence, the Cévennes onions in the parfait, yellow onions in the onion and lemon purée, pickled pearl onions, spring onion sprigs, spring onion oil, as well as red onions in the Légumes Essence. The dish is also presented in a handmade, onion-inspired ceramic plate designed by my partner Arissa Wang. The Légumes Essence is the ‘purest’ of all the four essences, created using a base of red onions and kombu. Incorporated into this dish is caviar from Kaviari, the Oscietra Prestige which I love very much because of its pop sensation and the flavours from the shorter four-month aging process. Only three restaurants in the world serve the Kaviari Oscietra Prestige, of which Restaurant Euphoria is the only one in Singapore.

Cevennes Onion

What has been your most challenging creation till date?

Carrot and Lobster. How do we elevate a simple ingredient, like a carrot on a plate, for it to outshine the protein, such as a perfectly cooked lobster? We wanted to create a spectacular carrot that could hold its own on a fine-dining plate; the R&D for it took a while. The actual daily preparation of this dish is very laborious too, given the amount of time needed to clean, peel, ‘ribbon’, handtwirl the carrots into perfectly round discs, and developing our own five-spice powder to confit the carrots to perfection. We currently use 35kg of carrots daily to prepare this dish, finishing it off with Legumes Vin Blanc and candied orange zest.

Likewise, what has been your most satisfying creation?

Probably the Oignon Jamboree dish. To be able to create another uniquely different dish using onions, challenging myself and the team to use five different varieties to create a new onion dish that can stand against my first onion signature dish, with a completely different identity and profile. With this dish, we create various subtle flavour layers, each using a different variety of onions, and bound together by one of our Gastro-Botanica Essences, Legumes Essence, and topped with Kaviari Oscietra Prestige caviar.

Unsurprisingly, Restaurant Euphoria is already a huge success. What’s your next milestone?

We opened our restaurant on 3 November 2020 and we are still at the very start of our journey. It is important for us to continue to fine-tune and refine every aspect of our customer experience, from food and service to ambience. I’m taking it a day at a time, and I continue to strive to offer the best experience for every guest who chooses to dine at Restaurant Euphoria.

epicure vietnam 87
A natural backdrop in Restaurant Euphoria Oignon jamboree
88 epicure vietnam CULINARY PIONEERS

A TRIBUTE TO THE CULINARY PIONEERS WHO SHAPED VIETNAM’S FOOD AND DRINK INDUSTRY

Up till less than a decade ago, foreigners in Vietnam were not allowed to own private enterprises. This meant owning a restaurant or bar in Saigon was quite the feat which necessitated meandering through grey areas of government rules, regulation and red tape. While many laud the culinary achievements of Vietnam today (placing #39 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants as well as three bars included in the top 100 Asia’s 50 Best Bars list), many of them would not have been made possible without this acclaimed list of pioneering gentlemen who laid out the groundwork and set the standards for the food and drink industry.

Jovel is a serial food writer who has lived in some of the world’s best culinary destinations including Paris, Hong Kong, Singapore and Switzerland. Today, she is the founder of jovelchan.com, a blog dedicated to Vietnam’s food and drink industry as well its coming-of-age tastemakers.

By highlighting these gentlemen, I hope to not only recognise their achievements but also pay tribute to their contributions and milestones that inspired and motivated many restauranteurs, chefs, baristas, bartenders and even master distillers to where they are today. As we look forward and push ahead in our tireless pursuit of establishing Vietnam as a leading dining capital in Asia, let us not forget to look back and remember those who made it easier and possible. So, this article goes out to all the fathers and the gentlemen in this article who gave birth to a generation of up-and-coming culinarians and epicureans in Vietnam. Happy Fathers Day, thank you for all that you have done and continue to do.

epicure vietnam 89

SPEARHEADING SAIGON’S FINE DINING FOOD SCENE

SAKAL PHOEUNG, CHEF & OWNER OF LE CORTO & PT’I SAIGON; PRESIDENT ESCOFFIER VIETNAM, MAÎTRES CUISINIERS DE FRANCE

Chef Sakal arrived in Ho Chi Minh City in 2012 and was one of the first chefs to spearhead the gourmet and epicurean culinary scene in Vietnam. He arrived in Saigon after leading the opening of Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra to helm the kitchen as Executive Chef of Sofitel Plaza Saigon, one of the first international luxury hotel chains in Vietnam.

Armed with 22 years of experience working for international luxury hotel chains and restaurants in China and Cambodia as well as a history of culinary stints in Europe at Michelin-starred restaurants and a myriad of Relais and Châteaux (a collection of gourmet restaurants, boutique hotels, resorts and villas. Chef Sakal opened his first restaurant Le Corto in 2016 followed by P’ti Saigon. During his time in Vietnam, Sakal has had the pleasure of cooking for notable figures such as the French President François Hollande and is also the President of les Disciples d’Escoffier Vietnam, a non-profit association created in Nice in 1954 (France) dedicated to the culinary arts and the transmission of knowledge and classic French cuisine.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

My mother who is currently living in France.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Didier Corlou who did a lot for Vietnamese cuisine and owns his own restaurant in Hanoi

• Chef Tung of TUNG Dining, I really like what he is doing and his cuisine is exceptional

• Chef Võ Thành Vương, my ex-Sous Chef who won Top Chef

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Be passionate about food, believe in yourself and near stop evolving and learning in this dynamic and ever-changing industry.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

My hope is for Vietnamese chefs and cuisine to gain more visibility globally. There are many new and talented chefs on the rise and they deserve more recognition.

LE CORTO

5D Nguyen Sieu Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1

Website: lecortovietnam.com Facebook: LeCorto

P’TI SAIGON

52 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2 Facebook: ptisaigon

90 epicure vietnam

DEMOCRATISING AND REDEFINING MODERN VIETNAMESE CUISINE

PETER CUONG FRANKLIN

CHEF-FOUNDER OF ANAN SAIGON

(#39 ON ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS, 2021)

Chef Peter Cuong Franklin, a Vietnamese-American Yale graduate, is the chef owner of Anan Saigon restaurant, Nhau Nhau cocktail bar & Pot Au Pho noodle bar, all located in Chợ Cũ, the oldest wet market in the center of bustling Saigon. He was an investment banker in New York, London and Hong Kong before following his passion to become a chef and restauranteur about ten years ago. Chef Peter ran two successful restaurants in Hong Kong before returning to Vietnam about five years ago to open Anan Saigon. The Harper Bazaar’s Chef of the Year also works with local charities such Saigon Children’s Charity, KOTO - Know One, Teach One and STREETS International, helping disadvantaged youths to gain a future in F&B. His restaurant Anan was recently voted No. 39 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2021 and Chef Peter was included in Tatler Asia’s Most Influential Tastemakers List 2021.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

As a child, I grew up in Da Lat, Central Vietnam and was always surrounded by food since my mom ran a small noodle shop in the living room of the house. You can say that food is in my blood. My mother is the inspiration for my life and my cooking because she is an amazing woman and one the best cooks in the village. She cooks only a few dishes but is famous for her Mi Quang, Cha Lua and Nem Nuong.

THREE UP-AND-COMING CHEFS ON THE RISE

• Pastry Chef Kasey Doan at Ivoire

• Chef Thao Na from Lavelle Library

• Chef Tru Lang from MÙA in Hoi An.

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

My advice for young chefs and people who want to pursue a career as a chef is simple: follow your passion and cook the food that people love to eat. And most importantly: “No Bullshit.” This means cooking with honesty and respect and don’t BS yourself or the guests who eat the food.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

The Saigon dining scene has evolved significantly since I returned from Hong Kong to set up Anan Restaurant in 2016. I hope that Vietnam’s F&B industry will continue to develop in terms of quality, diversity and sophistication so that we can become one of the leading dining capitals of Asia.

ANAN RESTAURANT

Address: 89 Ton That Dam Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Website: anansaigon.com

Facebook: anansaigon

epicure vietnam 91

THE FATHER OF FLAME GRILLED CHICKEN AND CASUAL DINING CONCEPTS IN SAIGON

ASIF MEHRUDEEN,

OF AHM LIFESTYLE (CHICKITA, GREYHOUND CAFE)

A chef by trade, Asif is an Aussie who moved to Bali in 2002 and has since called Asia home for the past 19 years. In 2009, Asif moved to Vietnam to helm the kitchen as Executive Chef at the Park Hyatt Saigon. After four years, Asif took a leap of faith and ventured into the world of casual dining restaurants and created some of the city’s most well-loved concepts including Sorae, San Fu Lou and Di Mai up till 2019 when he exited and founded AHM Lifestyles, which houses popular flame-grilled chicken concept, Chickita (four locations in Saigon) and Greyhound Cafe.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

Growing up in Melbourne, I was fortunate to have been exposed to different types of cuisine and culture. I was also very much inspired by my time in the kitchen cooking alongside a myriad of different chefs from different backgrounds and nationalities. It was so inspiring to learn about their culinary worlds and perspective. And of course, growing up with family and friends who enjoy food as much as I do!

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Elevated Vietnamese cuisine - I strongly believe we are going to see more talented local chefs explore different styles of regional unique culinary concepts, it’s already starting to happen and the world is watching.

• Vegan food - a new opportunity fast growing all around the world and becoming part of our new lifestyle choice

• Desserts - many Vietnamese have a sweet tooth and I’ve seen many new F&B concepts open up in the last 6 o 12 months but not many locally-inspired dessert concepts.

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Understand customer needs and source the best local produce as Vietnam is so rich in different types of ingredients where each month we keep discovering new things.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

To be a food and beverage hub in Southeast Asia by creating world class concepts. From my experience, a clear concept can become a destination and these concepts are what make our vibrant city so unique.

CHICKITA

Website: chickita.com.vn

Facebook: chickita.vn

Operating hours: 10am-10pm

92 epicure vietnam

THE FIRST OVERSEAS-VIETNAMESE CHEF/RESTAURANTEUR IN VIETNAM

TRISTAN NGO, CHEF-FOUNDER OF SKEWERS AND THE ELBOW ROOM

Tristan Ngo opened Skewers in 2000 and became the first overseas Vietnamese (Viet kieu) restaurateur and chef in Saigon. A self-trained chef, restaurateur, food writer and food presenter. Tristan grew up in Southern California and graduated from the University of San Francisco School with a degree in Business and Management. After experiencing a burnout at his corporate job at a brokerage firm, Tristan hit the road and travelled Europe in pursuit of food, travel and adventure before returning to Vietnam.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

“Everyday Cooking” with Jacque Pepin in 1982. He is such a joy to watch and introduced me to simple and unpretentious old school French dishes. “Yan Can Cook” with Martin Yan in 1984 was also one of my favourite TV shows to watch back then and it really inspired me because it was the first time I saw an Asian cooking on a Western channel. Last but not least, “The Mediterranean Kitchen” by Joyce Goldstein in 1990 changed my life and way of cooking.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Viet Hong - Monkey Gallery

• Adrian Chong - Sol Kitchen

• Tri & An - Nous

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Love what you do and do what you love. Be true to yourself, be passionate, resilient and stay humble and hungry.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

Don’t lose your character, bring back street food, bring back the hawkers. I miss those late nite noodle knockers (Mì gõ)!

SKEWERS AND THE ELBOW ROOM

Website: shgsaigon.com

Facebook:

Skewers: skewersrestaurantsaigon

The Elbow Room: theelbowroomsaigon

Operating hours: Mon-Sat: 11am-2pm; Mon-Sun: 5pm-10:30pm

epicure vietnam 93

PIONEERING SAIGON’S MOST ICONIC FOOD AND DRINK CONCEPTS

ANDY O’BRIEN, FOUNDING PARTNER A.K.A. WITCH DOCTOR OF TRIBE HOSPITALITY CONCEPTS

A true blue Aussie at heart, Andy has been in the F&B industry for more than 20 years. He first cut his teeth in ‘Le Restaurant’, a European restaurant in Melbourne with 3-hats, the highest culinary recognition for a restaurant in Australia. After, Andy worked short stints with multiple award-winning restaurants across Australia including Head Chef at Fenix, a 2-hat restaurant before moving to Europe for six years in pursuit of culinary discovery and inspiration from different types of cuisine, flavour and ingredients. After a private gourmet rendezvous with a client of Madonna, Andy found himself a part of the pop icon’s entourage and spent six months on the road mingling with the likes of Jon Bon Jovi, The Who, Elton John and Cirque du Soleil.

After a long-awaited opportunity to work for The Jackson Five fell through due to the passing of Michael Jackson, Andy found himself en route to Vietnam as part of the Intercontinental Saigon’s pre-opening team in 2009. Since, Andy has opened some of the city’s most beloved concepts including Chill, Saigon’s first sky bar/restaurant and L’Usine. In 2014, Andy, together with three other mates, fulfilled his lifelong ambition of creating a leading hospitality group that develops unique, inspirational and imaginative concepts. Today, that group is Tribe Hospitality Concepts and home to some of Saigon’s most standout concepts including The Racha Room (flagship), Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar, Firkin Bar, Dram Bar, Relish & Sons, Tribe Providore Collective (TPC) delivery and catering service and Phats Dumpling House.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Jerry Lưu, ex manager at Stoker and current owner of his own bar Climb

• Minh Tam Nguyen, ex senior bartender at Firkin and now co-founder of 419 bar

• Thanh Luan, ex bar manager at The Racha Room now cofounder of Tamarind Hidden Bar, The Gin House & Cozy Eatery & Bar

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Although the industry has changed a lot particularly over the last 5 to 6 years. I believe that at least one thing remains the same – passion and to surround yourself with those who have a like-minded vision to help motivate your drive to succeed.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

Vietnam’s F&B industry is progressing at a faster rate than it ever has since I have been here. The great thing about this industry is everybody always requires food and beverage and it’s one of the nicest ways of bringing people together. I hope and believe that Vietnam’s F&B scene will continue to be recognized globally and that the recent entries into the World’s 50 Best and 100 list are just the beginning and the tip of the iceberg.

94 epicure vietnam

SETTING THE BAR AND SHAPING SAIGON’S COCKTAIL CULTURE

Although Richie Fawcett has taken a step back from his days behind the bar and spends most of his time these days producing detailed panoramic pen and ink drawings of the city, Richie played an instrumental role in shaping Saigon’s bar scene and its bartenders. Since he moved to Saigon in 2011, he has opened some of the city’s most notable bar concepts including Saigon’s first independent cocktail lounge in 2011, the luxurious Six senses Ninh Van Bay bars in 2013, Shri rooftop bar and even double authored cocktail manual “Cocktail Art of Saigon”, which was nominated the Worlds best Cocktail Menu in 2017 at Tales of The Cocktail. Today, he runs The Studio Saigon (opened in 2017, currently closed due to the pandemic) and continues to mentor and train many Vietnamese bartenders and industry personalities.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

I spent 3 years as a cruise ship photographer sailing around the Caribbean and Pacific Ocean just before the millennium and drank every classic cocktail you could name made in the crew bars and posts of call along the way. After, I returned to the UK and started as a cocktail bartender in Soho, London and was trained by Venetia Napoli, learning the recipes of the classics I had drunk on the ships.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Jay Moir - Layla Eatery & Bar and Summer Experiment

• Lam Duc Anh - Diageo

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

• Be patient, results take time and need dedication

• Don’t put all your eggs in one basket and rely on just one revenue stream - invest in yourself and learn as many skills as you can

• Learn as much as possible about every aspect of the business you want to get into as one day you need to start your own.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

I hope that the diversity and variety of bar concepts will return post pandemic and we will have concepts that are experiential and out-of-the-ordinary that stand out of the mediocre. As the ancient classic Vietnamese saying goes” Never Binh Tuong always Dac Biet” “Never Average... always Special”

THE STUDIO SAIGON

Website: thestudiosaigon.dzk-creative.com

Facebook: thestudiosaigon

Operating hours: 12pm - 10pm, daily | Appointment only

epicure vietnam 95

THE FIRST TO PRODUCE COMMERCIAL CRAFT SPIRIT IN VIETNAM

MARKUS MADEJA, FOUNDER AND MASTER DISTILLER AT SON TINH ORIGINAL RUOU (CRAFT RICE WINE LIQUOR)

I arrived in Vietnam from Switzerland by train in early 1993. Nurtured by my previous anthropological studies I discovered a culinary world deeply steeped in cultural tradition and tightly connected with ancient medical concepts. This applies not only for strongly coded combinations of food ingredients but obviously for the traditional, local spirits which I decided to introduce to the world of spirit connoisseurs. It was about making something good and making the Vietnamese proud of something their own rather than being absorbed by globalized reduction to only a few tastes.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

Diversity, because I don’t like preconceptions and simple solutions.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY

FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Tommy Le Khoa for his industrious and audacious analysis of F&B trends

• Peter Cuong Franklin for his playfulness with traditional dishes at Anan Saigon

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Stay original but be ready to quickly adapt.

LAST

BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

I hope to see the Vietnamese stick to their own style of dining. My vision is that the F&B industry will develop a vision.

Website: www.sontinh.com | www.highway4.com

Facebook: SonTinhOriginalRuou | Highway4HangTre

Operating hours: 9am – 12pm

96 epicure vietnam

THE FIRST TO SELL COMMERCIAL CRAFT BEER IN VIETNAM

TIM SCOTT, FOUNDER OF QUAN UT UT AND BIACRAFT ARTISAN ALE; DEPUTY CEO OF RED WOK

Originally from Australia and celebrating his 20th year living in Vietnam this year, Tim is the founder of Quán Ụt Ụt which opened in 2014 and was the first to commercially sell craft beer in Vietnam and BiaCraft Artisan Ales, the first to bring together different craft beers from around the country. Currently, Tim is the Deputy CEO of Red Wok which also operates Wrap & Roll and Lẩu Bò Sài Gòn Vi Vu. He’s been fortunate enough to have worked for some great companies in Vietnam, including MegaStar Cineplex, The Hi-Fi, and Hard Rock Café. His proudest achievement was making the international news for selling a commemorative kimchi infused beer called Kim Jong Ale for the Trump/KJ Il summit in Hanoi.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

I’ve been working in restaurants since I was 15. I think the exhilaration of a dinner rush is addictive, and handling all the crazy things it throws at you on a nightly basis builds a kind of camaraderie with colleagues that’s hard to let go of. I’ve worked with many talented people who have inspired me which has kept me happily on my path. And as cliche as it sounds, it was after reading Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour in 2001 that I decided to come check out Vietnam.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• The guys at Hoprizon are so incredibly passionate about the craft beer they make. You can see it exude from them in every conversation. I think they’re poised to become stronger and stronger, and represent the local Vietnamese craft community on the global stage.

• Mary Vu from Mad Wine Bar and Mad House is another young and talented leader. It seems almost strange to say she’s upand-coming as she’s such a well known face, but I believe she’s only at the very beginning of her career, and is bound to do even more amazing things.

• Lastly, I am constantly amazed at how brilliant the Kashew Cheese concept is. Lê Na and Toby have really nailed it. I think we can all hope they go far with this brand.

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

The service industry is very tough. It takes so many different skill sets to pull off a smoothly operated restaurant. You really gotta have a deep passion for what you do - it has to keep you up at night and push you out of bed every morning. If you’re not jonesing for your next busy service, you won’t have the stamina to keep going. Be passionate. Be creative. Enjoy the ride.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

I love everything about Vietnam’s F&B industry, from the cheap street stalls to the funky niche cafes and I sincerely hope none of it gets lost to modernisation and that those at the forefront of Vietnam’s culinary industry help to preserve this country’s rich and authentic street food culture. Simply, I’m hoping as many street food vendors make it through to the other side of the pandemic and for newcomers to continue to bring more new ideas to the table. This way, Vietnam will continue to be a mecca for international foodies.

QUAN UT UT – AMERICAN BBQ & BEER

168 Vo Van Kiet Street, District 1

47 Xuan Thuy Street, District 2

Website: quanutut.com

Facebook: quanutut

Operating hours: 11am - 11pm

BIACRAFT ARTISAN ALES

1 Le Ngo Cat Street, District 3

90 Xuan Thuy Street, District 2

300 Truong Sa Street, Phu Nhuan District

MM1 Truong Son Street, District 10

Website: biacraft.com

Facebook: biacraft

Operating hours: 11am - 11pm

epicure vietnam 97

REPRESENTING VIETNAM’S CULINARY SCENE IN A GLOBAL MEDIASCAPE

CHRIS THOMPSON, EDITOR-AT-LARGE AT HARPER’S BAZAAR VIETNAM AND EPICURE VIETNAM

Originally from Liverpool, Chris began his career with a series of Sales & Marketing roles at corporate giants Danone and Nestle before joining the drinks industry with Pernod Ricard in London promoting iconic brands like The Glenlivet, Chivas, Jameson and Perrier Jouet. He arrived in Vietnam in 2013 as Regional Director for Rothschild Estates for Indo China before progressing into his current role in the media with Harper’s Bazaar & Epicure Vietnam as well as Marketing Consultant for Thien Linh Wine & Spirits.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

Whatever business you’re in you’ll always need to deal with people. I’ve always enjoyed this aspect of business and tried to understand

that empathy for colleagues and clients is crucial to business success. The hospitality industry in a cosmopolitan and emerging city like Saigon is a melting pot of different cultures consisting of characters working in many differing functions from purchasing to cooking to front-of-house making it such a diverse and fascinating place to work.

CAN

YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Korean Chef Joonhyuk Chi is making waves up in Hanoi having opened Labri Bistro showcasing really precise cooking in a trendy, intimate and stripped back dining room with a slant towards new technologies

• A new sheriff has slipped into town under the cover of quarantine but expect to see the new General Manager of Quince & Madam Kew taking names down on 37 Ky Con as he starts by revitalising speakeasy Madam Kew

• Jan Visser and the team at Sampan Rhum, which is distilled in Hoi An. They seem to have all their fundamentals in place around provenance, production and distribution strategy and I’m tipping them to have a big 2022.

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Anything that looks, feels, tastes or smells too good to be true usually is. Anything that’s worth having or being involved with in our industry requires hard work and commitment. I’ve not met any successful people in our industry who haven’t worked really hard and shown great commitment to their craft.

Look behind the lens of social media and consider the preparation that goes into these perfects postings that you may see on Instagram.

It’s really important to be able to prioritise and understand when to say no and to what so that you can achieve that balance to spend time with loved ones and recharge those batteries.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT’S YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

I hope to see the further development of a thriving value chain in our industry. Of course restaurants remain at the epicentre of this but we also need to ensure that suppliers have enough fuel to sustain and develop their operations i.e. deliver the product and service so that restaurants can continue to delight customers and us media can have content to write about. This fuel will be dispensed from the bounce back that we are going to experience in the Vietnamese economy as the country opens up to international visitors again in 2022.

Instagram: ctsaigon06

98 epicure vietnam

BUILDING A SPECIALTY COFFEE CULTURE IN VIETNAM

WILL FRITH, FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF BUILDING COFFEE

Will Frith has been researching and working in the growing specialty coffee industry in Vietnam since 2012 with the mission to change the way the world sees Vietnamese coffee. Frith has roots in the American Pacific Northwest, working for companies including Batdorf & Bronson, Olympia Coffee Roasting Company, and Modbar. Today he is based in Ho Chi Minh City, where his work includes training and education for the city’s booming coffee scene, the development of his own concept cafe project (launching 2021) and a wide-reaching green coffee initiative built around introduction arabica varieties to a region traditionally known for robusta. Today, Will continues to spearhead his mission through his project building coffee, a space where budding coffee entrepreneurs, baristas and roasters can grow their own coffee business in Saigon. Building has all that a coffee entrepreneur needs to source, roast, package, run quality control and train baristas.

WHO/WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR GETTING INTO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHY?

• Specialty Coffee in general - the team at Batdorf & Bronson, specifically Heather Ringwood and Oliver Stormshak.

• Vietnam’s Specialty Coffee - my own curiosity and vision, as there weren’t many folks that I could easily find in the beginning. Quang Tran (La Viet) has been a very important collaborator from the beginning until now. We’re still good friends and depend on one another a lot for various things.

CAN YOU NAME 3 UP-AND-COMING INDUSTRY FIGURES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN VIETNAM?

• Tran Le Minh Truc (aka Bi Hat De) - he’s got a new coffee roasting company called Every Half, and he’ll continue to be a big influence

• Le Dac Thanh - based in Danang, his company 43 Factory Coffee Roaster is doing some very good work, innovating at every opportunity.

WHAT’S SOME ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO THOSE LOOKING TO ENTER THE INDUSTRY?

Business skills and acumen trump technical skills and know-how. At

the end of the day, we’re trying to do business selling products into a market. Without any business skills (or someone on the team who can contribute those skills), the best artisan can’t scale to a level that makes it profitable to support staff in the long term. If one is in the wholesale business, then they must be able to maintain their customers’ confidence in their own ability to help them succeed.

In the specialty coffee sector, there are too many skilled baristas who think their focus on just making the best coffee is enough to bring customers through the door. But, if their average customer doesn’t feel taken care of then the business they’ve created won’t be sustainable due to a lack of repeat business. One must focus on the customer, first and foremost, bringing them along for a journey rather than alienating them the first time they say or request the wrong thing.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST,

WHAT’S

YOUR HOPE AND VISION FOR VIETNAM’S F&B INDUSTRY?

Diversification and a sense of identity. Right now, I see a lot of outside influences coming in and creating really great stuff, but most of it is just outside concepts being stuffed into a different setting. If the right mix of influences can come together with a local “twist,” that will initiate the “start” of a strong, modern scene. I’m sure there are individuals who are already doing great work towards what we’re talking about, but it takes a movement, which is more than a few individual players operating in a bubble.

Right now, this new movement is at a nascent stage, with lots of exciting “takes” on Vietnamese culture, but it’s all necessarily derivative. “Authentic” traditional Vietnamese food and beverage is experiencing a real boost, and the outside influence is pushing it in a good direction, but if there’s nothing new or truly modern to take it to another level, this will plateau and lose its shine. It requires multiple diverse things happening at once. This is the most exciting time to enter any up-and-coming scene. I hope for it to snap together to create something truly original and special, on par with Hong Kong, Melbourne, or Bangkok, to become a destination in itself.

BUILDING COFFEE

Website: building.coffee

Facebook: building.coffee

Operating hours: Mon-Fri: 9am-5pm; Sat: 10am-4pm; Closed on Sundays

epicure vietnam 99
100 epicure vietnam

MOTHER NATURE’S POWER SINGLE-USE PLASTIC TO REPLACE HARNESSING

Young, female and alone in a foreign country, Marina Tran-Vu talks about her inspirational journey and some of the challenges she’s faced as a start-up entrepreneur and founder of EQUO in Vietnam’s eco-business space.

Can you tell our readers why you decided to start a business during the Covid epidemic? This must have taken a lot of courage, do you think it was a reckless decision?

The idea for the business came in June of 2019. When I officially started working full-time on the idea in February 2020, we only began to hear about the pandemic here and there. It was around May that we launched our Kickstarter campaign - now almost a year later, we all know that globally everything has changed forever. I don’t think courage had much to do with it, it was just the reality of what was happening in the world, and a lack of ability to predict that resulted in us pivoting to be able to continue pursuing our business vision.

Growing up, your mother was an entrepreneur - how do you think this influenced your decision to follow in her footsteps?

Watching my mom start her business and struggle was humbling. She worked 16+ hours a day in order to make sure the business was successful enough to provide for the family. It showed me that entrepreneurship is difficult. Keeping that in my mind drives me, because my mom is my motivation, my inspiration and a real-life example of what hard work and the right vision can achieve.

EQUO could be described as a social enterprise. How do you think young Vietnamese can be encouraged to use business principles and practices to address social and environmental issues? We are not a non-profit. There are ways to approach and solve social and environmental issues in different ways. We choose to do it through a forprofit business. Our stance is that we can’t help anyone else if we can’t help ourselves become a successful business first. Consumerism is a powerful thing. If aspiring young Vietnamese entrepreneurs can realize this, they will see that businesses are not bad or evil. Consumerism and a for-profit business is our way of achieving our mission.

epicure vietnam 101
EPICUREAN PROFILE

You highlight that EQUO is ‘committed to supporting local people to build sustainable raw material areas, optimize production and create more jobs.’ How EQUO has supported local communities? The biggest way we do this is by making sure our manufacturing and sourcing come from local regions like Dong Thap, Ben Tre and Long An. By sourcing materials from these areas, we are not only driving sustainable income but helping to support traditional agriculture way of life.

What do you think about the potential of the green industry in Vietnam, and what favourable conditions does Vietnam have for development compared to other countries in the region? Vietnam’s resources along with the innovation and speed of development are the biggest advantages that Vietnam has. The West does not have the abundant resources that Vietnam has in terms of eco-friendly materials! Finally, the freedom to pioneer, start something, test something out, is much more available here in Vietnam - it’s an amazing land of opportunity, untapped resources and talent.

102 epicure vietnam

Consumption habits are not easy to change, especially when the price of green products is often more than non-green products. What marketing plan do you have to solve these problems?

Our biggest focus is intangible costs versus tangible costs. Someone might say this plastic straw costs me 1 cent but your sugarcane straw costs me 3 cents, but this is from a tangible cost perspective. From an intangible position, we take into account the cost of disposing of that plastic straw properly.

How will the strategy of promoting products in the Vietnamese market be different when compared to promoting internationally?

In Vietnam, we focus on heritage marketing and education. People know that plastic is a problem, they hear about it every day. But they want to hear it in a different way that is relevant to them. Many people internationally are unaware that it is possible to make products like straws or utensils out of natural materials like grass or sugarcane, so we focus a lot on educating about the raw material instead.

Do you face any difficulties when sourcing raw material suppliers in Vietnam?

Suppliers, in general, have been quite easy to find! People in Vietnam are great to work with. The biggest challenges we face sometimes is having the right information or documentation for sourcing. Paperwork is really one of those things we have to provide when selling our products, and understandably sometimes this isn’t available with smaller suppliers in Vietnam.

What message do you want to send to young girls who are still suffering from many social prejudices out there?

Be yourself - let your work, your experience and your results speak for themselves. Society will always have something to say about your appearance, your youth, your behaviour. Ignore those things and focus on delivering what you commit to and prove people wrong with results versus your words.

epicure vietnam 103

CREATORS of DISTINCTION

Brands that stand the test of time, continually emerging with innovative products and initiatives that leave a legacy of uncompromising excellence. To celebrate our 10th anniversary, we want to draw inspiration from the achievements of these noteworthy brands and the outstanding individuals who drive them.

THE HOSPITALITY

MOGUL MICHAEL ISSENBERG, CHAIRMAN & CEO, ASIA PACIFIC, ACCOR

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

When Issenberg joined the group in 1994, Accor had fewer than 80 hotels in Asia Pacific. Twentyfive years later, the group has grown to more than 1,200 hotels in 22 countries, and opens a new hotel, on average every 2.5 days across the region. Issenberg has focused on opening new frontiers and launching in new verticals in travel, and he was responsible for the launch of the first hotel-branded timeshare company in Australia, Accor Vacation Club. Under his bold leadership, Accor became the first international hotel group to enter several countries within the region, and it is now the #1 international operator in Australia, Indonesia, New Zealand, Thailand, Singapore, South Korea and Vietnam.

104 epicure vietnam
EPICUREAN PROFILE

As an award-winning hotelier who is also recognised with the Ordre National du Merite from the French Government, one of the highest civilian orders possible, for his tireless work in forging links between France and the world, Issenberg’s career with Accor continues to accelerate with the acquisition of Mirvac’s hotel operations in Australia and the Mantra portfolio of hotels in the Pacific. The biggest highlight for him was the acquisition of the FRHI Holdings Limited portfolio of brands – Raffles, Fairmont, Swissotel – where he was chosen to lead the integration of the groups, which consolidated Accor’s leadership in luxury.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

At the time of writing, the greatest challenge of Issenberg’s career is dealing with the coronavirus situation while protecting the interests

THE ITALIAN PIONEER BEPPE DE VITO, CHEF-RESTAURATEUR, ILLIDO GROUP

of various stakeholders (guests, owners, staff) and ensuring the longterm viability of the business. Once travel starts to rebound, Issenberg would be driving Accor’s stronger leadership role in sustainability as guests are increasingly looking to hotel groups to protect the planet and to give back to the people in destinations in which the group operates. He is a firm believer that you cannot enter a destination without ensuring you improve the situation for locals.

H THE OM FACTOR

“My philosophy would be to continually Sharpen the Saw (the seventh habit from Stephen Covey’s famous Seven Habits of Highly Effective People). For me the concept of continual improvement is a great mantra to live by. I continuously strive to improve myself and our business.”

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

The pioneering chef-restaurateur has contributed greatly to the development of the Italian dining scene in Singapore through his work at the ilLido Group, which counts multiple beloved dining establishments in the industry. These include Southbridge, AURA, Amo, Art, and one Michelin-starred Braci. Driven by a passionate work philosophy and a penchant for showcasing the best of Italian hospitality, De Vito’s commitment is evident in his close involvement with menus, design and service.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

De Vito’s work has been largely recognised by many industry players; besides glitzy collaborations with fellow Michelin-starred chefs around the world and numerous other restaurant awards, Braci has retained its star for three years running. A focus on ingredient-driven cuisine has also led De Vito to showcase more unique Italian ingredients at Art, such as hand-shelled Toritto almonds, Khorasan semolina flour from Puglia, and even olive oil grown by his family’s farm. He is also looking to add to his portfolio with Levant, a cosmopolitan rooftop bar in Tanjong Pagar.

H THE OM FACTOR

“Respect is the centre of all that I do. Having gone through every restaurant role conceivable, I believe that it is important to respect everything that comes into contact with my food; the ingredients, producers, diners, and fellow colleagues. For instance, my business philosophy has always been that the customers come first. You elevate their dining experience with unparalleled hospitality, attention to detail and wonderful dishes, and they will always leave your restaurant with a smile.”

epicure vietnam 105

THE WINE WIZARD IGNATIUS CHAN, SOMMELIER, RESTAURATEUR & FOUNDER, IGGY’S

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

Before founding his eponymous restaurant Iggy’s, sommelier Ignatius Chan paved the way for generations of sommeliers after him. His acumen saw him winning the Veuve Clicquot Champagne Scholarship in 1988, snagging a six-month sommelier training in Europe sponsored by the Mandarin Oriental Sommelier Scholarship in 1989, and entering the finals of Sopexa World’s Best Sommelier in French Wines & Spirits Concours 1990 in Paris. He would go on to join Raffles Singapore for its reopening in 1991, establish Les Amis in 1994 as a partner, then make his name internationally with sommelier-centric Iggy’s in 2004.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

Chan recalls, “Looking back at the 1980s, wine was not widely consumed and no one really knew what a sommelier does nor do they want the job. Today, sommeliers are possibly as important as the chef, and some enjoy the recognition and status of rockstars.”

As early as 2006, Iggy’s breached the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list at 99, then brought global attention to Singapore as it made pole position as the highest-ranked Asian restaurant in 2012 (piping the formidable Narisawa). Chan’s familiarity especially with Burgundy (he and wife Janice visit twice a year) and lauded tasting prowess (which he achieved by training and memory) make him one of the most respected and hands-on restaurateurs in Singapore among the cognoscenti.

H THE OM FACTOR

“I see my business as being similar to playing a game of soccer, tennis or any kind of ball game. We must have a strategy and focus on the ball, not the score board.”

THE TECHNOLOGY SPECIALIST GIAN PAOLO GLÜCKLER , GENERAL MANAGER APPLIANCES DIVISION, LIEBHERR-SINGAPORE

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

Gian Paolo Glückler joined Liebherr in 2009, bringing with him more than 15 years of international experience in consumer goods. He spearheaded the growth of export markets in Europe, Africa and Middle East before moving to Singapore to assume responsibility for Asia Pacific markets as General Manager of the Appliance division at Liebherr-Singapore Pte Ltd in 2015. Since then, the brand has recorded unprecedented growth, almost doubling its volumes in APAC, and is now an established preferred choice for quality refrigeration in the region.

106 epicure vietnam

Liebherr is a family-owned multinational company leading the field in a variety of industries across all continents. The Liebherr Group now comprises over 130 companies in more than 50 countries on every continent with an employment strength of 46,000.

In Europe, Liebherr has become the largest manufacturer of cooling and freezing appliances including wine cabinets, since it began production of its first refrigeration line in 1954. Today, it manufactures more than 2 million units per annum to serve the global market.

As a premium brand, Liebherr has established a reputation as a reliable brand for refrigeration and green technology worldwide. Its core belief in Design, Quality and Innovation results in its impressive range of appliances catered to people with a desire for sophisticated features, appealing designs and state-of-the-art technology.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

Liebherr is placing a strong focus on Asia. Singapore is an important hub in APAC and it’s where Liebherr will roll out new products, features and services first. While Liebherr products will become more and more connected and environmentally friendly, the aim is to facilitate access to Liebherr’s quality refrigeration to more customers in the region. “With our all new flagship store located at No. 70 Tras Street, we have taken an important step in getting closer to our customers and in ensuring that our brand, products and services can be experienced first-hand in an inspiring highclass environment,” says Glückler.

H THE OM FACTOR

“Listen. Understand. Act boldly. It’s a simple formula for success.”

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

“Lamborghini may be renowned as a luxury sports car brand, but our goal is to steer closer to the lifestyle segment by enhancing Lamborghini ‘design of experiences’ leadership in the luxury segment, through experiential customer events and crossindustry collaborations with partners across F&B, fashion and hospitality industries,” shares Ortenzi. In 2019, Lamborghini collaborated with ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’, co-creating content with leading chefs. Lamborghini also worked with Michelin-starred Chef Han Li Guang to customise a special menu for the Lamborghini Lounge event in Singapore as part of its Singapore Grand Prix celebrations.

THE SUPERCAR LEADER

MATTEO ORTENZI, CEO, ASIA PACIFIC, LAMBORGHINI

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

Matteo Ortenzi joined the company in 2004 at a pivotal time. It was the first full year with the ‘Baby Lambo’ Gallardo in the market. Prior to that, Lamborghini was selling below 500 cars a year (297 in 2001), a far cry from today. That number has increased more than tenfold in 2019 with 8,205 cars delivered. Prior to his current role, he led the brand’s project management department and served as a board member for Automobili Lamborghini SpA.

Ortenzi is focused on expanding the brand’s accessibility to new audiences with cars such as the Super SUV Urus – the world’s first Super SUV. Personalisation is an important part of Lamborghini’s formula, where almost 70 percent of the sports cars delivered to customers have at least one configuration from its Ad Personam customisation programme. To meet this demand, Lamborghini will open its first lounge in Asia Pacific this year in Tokyo, with a special Ad Personam corner.

H THE OM FACTOR

“Be the pioneer - look for something that has not existed and create it your own way. Expect the unexpected and create the unexpected. Lamborghini was the first to build a V12 engine car with an aluminum body. We were the first to have a V12 central, mid-rear traversal engine and integrated gearbox, and we are the first to have a four-wheel drive technology on a super sports car with the Diablo VT.”

epicure vietnam 107

THE MAN WHO FOLLOWS HIS HEART WEE TENG WEN,FOUNDER & MANAGING PARTNER, LO & BEHOLD GROUP

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

Since co-founding Loof, Singapore’s first standalone rooftop bar in 2005, Wee’s impact on the industry only continues to deepen; the managing partner of The Lo & Behold Group now manages an iconic portfolio of restaurants, bars, hotels, and a members’ club that is united by his vision. Through well loved brands such as The White Rabbit, Tanjong Beach Club, The Warehouse Hotel, Straits Clan and more, Wee hopes to inject more soul, fun, and lovability into Singapore’s lifestyle and hospitality scene.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

The group’s long-term goal is to deliver best-in-class concepts and experiences that will set the standard in the region and beyond. Most notably, the jointly-owned Odette (co-owned with chef Julien Royer) has continually impressed, with their recent crowning of three Michelin stars and the title of Asia’s Best Restaurant. Wee promises more collaborative cross-industry concepts that will expand

the group’s hospitality offerings in the near future. Several existing venues in the portfolio will also undergo transformations or expansions to keep guests delighted and engaged.

H THE OM FACTOR

“Our people are our greatest asset. I believe that our approach of following our hearts instead of trends has been vital to the longevity of our businesses. We always start with the ‘why’; secure a location we love, then throw in a generous amount of imagination and magic to create fresh concepts that work for this market. If I had to boil it all down, these would be the key ingredients to our success – unique ideas delivered in great locations, brought to life by a talented and hard-working team.”

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

THE MASTER OF TIME MARC A.HAYEK, PRESIDENT& CEO, BLANCPAIN, SWATCH GROUP

He also re-vitalised Blancpain’s connection to the ocean community and started the Blancpain Ocean Commitment. Blancpain was a founding partner of the National Geographic “Pristine Seas” Program; of the 14 expeditions supported by Blancpain, 10 resulted in doubling the surface area of protected oceans, with an addition of more than 4 million sq km. Blancpain is also a founding partner of Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa projects to explore marine creatures and phenomena on Earth.

Hayek is an epicurean who appreciates the art of living and the close bond between gastronomy and traditional watchmaking, which are united by values such as passion, pursuit of excellence and meticulousness. Blancpain therefore nurtures special relationships with multi-starred chefs – such as French Chef Julien Royer. Blancpain’s circle of friends hold more than 100 Michelin stars among them. In 2020, Blancpain expressed its close ties with the Michelin Guide by announcing a long-term partnership that will make its mark on the international gastronomic scene.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

Marc A. Hayek’s journey began in the family business (renamed Swatch Group) in 1992, and in the early years, he spearheaded the revival of the Blancpain brand, inspiring the release of close to 40 new calibres over the last decade.

A passionate diver, his first project was the re-birth of the Fifty Fathoms – the first modern diver’s watch created in 1953 by former CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter. What debuted was the 2003 anniversary Fifty Fathoms in a limited series of 150 pieces. Harkening back to the Fiechter era, the anniversary edition was far from a mere re-creation of the past, as Hayek saw an opportunity to marry its vintage spirit with modern innovations. In 2007, Hayek initiated another ambitious project: A new Fifty Fathoms with a new highperformance movement. The result was the calibre 1315, a triple barrel, high-power, and shock-resistant movement with a useful date-complication.

Hayek is focused on pushing the boundaries of watchmaking to even higher levels of achievement, as is his passion for driving impactful BOC projects. A sixth Gombessa mission may take place in French Polynesia next year. The positive impact of BOC projects has also led to a collaboration with the Mokarran Protection Society to study the natural behaviour of the great hammerhead shark in Rangiroa, French Polynesia for the first time.

In the world of gastronomy, Blancpain will continue to collaborate globally with renowned chefs and foster its ties with the Michelin Guide through events that celebrate haute cuisine, from Shanghai to Paris via New York and Tokyo, to name a few.

H THE OM FACTOR

“Authenticity is the key: do what you feel passionate about and never lose your inner child.”

epicure vietnam 109

THE GLOBAL CITIZEN BRETT TOLLMAN, CHIEF EXECUTIVE, THE TRAVEL CORPORATION

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

As chief executive of family-owned, international travel agency The Travel Corporation, Tollman has his hands full managing the brand’s portfolio of over 40 award-winning guided travel brands, including Trafalgar, Insight Vacations, and luxury cruise operator Uniworld. Incredibly passionate about the sustainability and positive impact of travel, Tollman is also the vice-chairman of the World Travel and Tourism Council and founder of the TreadRight Foundation.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

Tollman and his team are dedicated to immersive experiences and continual innovation in the ever-growing tourism market. Together with his #MakeTravelMatter campaign with TreadRight, The Travel Corporation has dedicated itself to reducing the use of single-use plastics on their guided holidays, and will be launching sustainabilityfocused destinations this year. These include the Xigera Safari Lodge in Botswana, which is dedicated to preserving the ecosystem that surrounds it, and 100 Princes Street in Edinburgh, the group’s first Scottish property that is committed to protecting human history.

H THE OM FACTOR

“If you take a wooden match out of a box, it’s easy to snap in half; but if you take all of the matches out and keep them together, it’s literally impossible to break them. Similarly, The Travel Corporation relies on our incredibly diverse portfolio to continue to be an industry leader, allowing us to constantly innovate and improve on the current formula.”

110 epicure vietnam

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

H BLAZING THE TRAIL

The bright practitioner of law left the bar to join the hospitality industry, and he has since became one of Singapore’s most dynamic hoteliers and restaurateurs. The Unlisted Collection, which started in 2006, has since collated an award-winning portfolio of establishments that span five countries. These hotels and restaurants are often situated in heritage-listed buildings that have been transformed into boutique lifestyle spots that promise an unforgettable experience.

THE COURAGEOUS TRAILBLAZER JENNIFER KARJADI, FOUNDER, THE UNION GROUP

Jennifer Karjadi has had different careers in her life before becoming a co-founder of The Union Group. It is Jakarta’s gain that she left her career as a stock broker and shoe designer. Together with her partners, she pioneered the opening of independent bars and restaurants such as Cork & Screw and Loewy in Jakarta 12 years ago, foreseeing the opportunity to create accessible establishments with good quality food and high-level service outside hotels. The Union Group currently owns nine brands and 17 establishments in Jakarta, from a New York-inspired steakhouse Bistecca to Union Brasserie, Bakery & Bar – which was ranked 39 in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2019.

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

“We will have two new brands in Jakarta this year. The first to open is Roma, an osteria and bar serving classic Roman dishes, Neapolitan pizzas and classic Italian cocktails. The second one is Pierre, a traditional French bistro in Senopati,” shares Karjadi. The group also aims to bring their existing brands to other cities in Indonesia as well as continue to be the provider of unique products and offerings. She believes in the importance of personal touch, be it by knowing the regular customers by name in the outlets or through promotional strategies. “I have established a team of public relations and marketing managers to make sure that our guests leave satisfied and return again and again,” says Karjadi.

H THE OM FACTOR

“I really like this quote by Winston Churchill and I believe this philosophy has brought me this far: ‘Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts’.”

H GREAT EXPECTATIONS

Loh’s proven track record can be best seen back home, where he boasts an impressive resume of restaurants. The portfolio commands a respectable six Michelin stars, courtesy of Cheek Bistro, Burnt Ends, Nouri, Basque Kitchen by Aitor, and the two-starred Restaurant Zen. Loh is also deeply involved in the development of Singapore’s hospitality and tourism industry, holding numerous positions with the Urban Redevelopment Authority, National Heritage Board, and the Singapore Land Authority. As always, Loh is driven by a passion for furthering the guest experience, and will undoubtedly continue to develop future radical, cutting-edge concepts.

H THE OM FACTOR

“Success is based on getting your whole team to work towards a goal; you are only as strong as your weakest link. It’s about ensuring we are able to work as a team and to make a positive difference to each of our lives and that of our guests. This is my definition of success.”

THE INDUSTRY BUILDER LOH LIK PENG, FOUNDER AND CEO, UNLISTED COLLECTION

epicure vietnam 111
112 epicure vietnam WINE KNOWLEDGE

THE REBIRTH OF RENOWNED BURGUNDIAN HOUSE

Opportunities to buy back historical family wine estates don’t often come around, but after 25 years Laurent Delaunay is once again making wine under the Edouard Delaunay name. After just three years of relaunch, Edouard Delaunay was the biggest success story at the International Wine Challenge 2020.

Owner Laurent Delaunay could hardly believe the news when he found out saying, “This is massive! It is such amazing recognition for our wines and all the hard work and determination of the entire team at Edouard Delaunay in making this project a success. It also shows that even a very traditional region like Burgundy is ready to change and to do things a bit differently.”

He continued, “My grandfather used to say that the House of Edouard Delaunay was ‘the smallest of the great Houses’. And for many years it has been my ambition to honour my family’s legacy by returning it to its former glory and making Edouard Delaunay a leading Burgundian wine house once more, focused on excellence and high-end wines mainly from the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune.”

RECONSTRUCTING THE PAST

This meteoric success story began in 2017 when Laurent Delaunay bought back his great grandfather’s winery in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, a subregion of the Burgundy wine region located to the west of the Côte de Nuits subregion. It was Edouard Delaunay, a visionary, who, in 1893, settled his family and anchored his ambition in this viticultural region. He played a major role in the development of the Burgundian wine region and become one of the leading houses in Burgundy with prestigious international distribution.

This project was something Laurent Delaunay had wanted to do for years, ever since his family had to part with the winery in the early 90s and he had left his beloved Burgundy to start Badet Clément with his wife Catherine and make branded wines in his second home, the Languedoc. He set about a complete renovation of the family’s historic winery and cellars, including the means to vinify and age his wines with great precision and respect for the grapes by keeping interventions to a strict minimum.

epicure vietnam 113

After the extensive refurbishment of the winery, Laurent was blessed with the help of grower friends and family in the region. To help with the re-establishment of the historic winery, Badet Clément’s DVP (Domaine & Vins de Propriété), one of the largest specialists in distributing Domaine wines in Burgundy gave him access to an incomparable network, especially for grape sourcing.

He then recruited Christophe Briotet, a talented young Burgundian winemaker with great experience, including five years as chief winemaker at the school of viticulture in Beaune. Christophe shared his winemaking philosophy of purity and precision and had recently been crowned the IWC’s Red Winemaker of the Year. Together, they would embark on this monumental project.

Since the relaunch, both the 2017 and 2018 Edouard Delaunay wines have received exceptional scores and reviews from many of the world’s top wine critics and Burgundy specialists. Their impressive list of accolades has come from internationally renowned wine experts including Jancis Robinson, James Suckling, Jeannie Cho Lee MW, Jasper Morris MW, Sarah Marsh MW, Neil Beckett and Michel Bettane.

DESERVED RECOGNITION

The newly launched Edouard Delaunay wines which are designed for the premium on-trade and independents completely smashed it across all 3 of the big international wine competitions. However, it was in the International Wine Challenge (IWC) where they really stood out. The estate won eight trophies, including the Burgundy Trophy, French Red Trophy, and the International Pinot Noir Trophy, as well as the Red Winemaker of the Year for Christophe Briotet, and 15 gold, 30 silver and 7 bronze medals.

Laurent Delaunay says “I would never have dreamt that the very first wines we’ve created at Edouard Delaunay would have been so successful in the first year of my ‘grand projet’ to return Edouard Delaunay to being one of the leading houses in Burgundy.” He continues, “This project is so personal and dear to my heart which makes this incredible early success even more meaningful.”

114 epicure vietnam

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

Regarding the future, Laurent Delaunay says, “After we have finished celebrating our success which might take some time! We will start to propose our 2019 wines en primeur and then we have two main aims for 2021. The first, to explore the higher altitude vineyards of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, where our winery is located, which seems like it could provide a very interesting answer in the future to the issues of climate change.”

Laurent continues, “And our main objective for 2021 is Chablis, where we have started a new joint venture to launch a range of contemporary wines with a modern but strong personality featuring, with precision, the cool climate and stony, mineral, character of the Chablis wines which are so distinctive.” He concludes, “And finally we have leased our first vineyards this year in Pommard, in the Côtes de Beaune which is the next step in our plan to eventually purchase some Burgundian vineyards of our own.”

EDOUARD DELAUNAYSEPTEMBRE PINOT NOIRBOURGOGNE

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir

Tasting note: the nose is expressive, fresh and crisp with aromas of cherry & redcurrant. Remarkably fresh, lovely structure with good length & very well-intergrated subtle nuances of oak & spices.

In addition, Laurent Delaunay, who is a member of the association to protect the Abbey of Saint-Vivant and the UNESCO World Heritage Climats, both at the heart of Burgundian viticulture, wants to offer amateur wine enthusiasts a complete immersion into Burgundy wine culture when they purchase Edouard Delaunay wines. This will be done through packaging, tailor-made services, a personalized welcome, a wine club so that Edouard Delaunay becomes their guide to discovering Burgundy.

“We want to create a direct relationship with consumers who are interested in Burgundy wines and give them a real introduction into the region; its culture, philosophy, vineyards, art de vivre… the things which inspire wine enthusiasts, but which often remain out of reach because of the Burgundy’s exclusivity.”

Exclusively available from: Wine Embassy, 14B9 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc, Ho Chi Minh City Facebook: WineEmbassyThaoDien

EDOUARD DELAUNAYMEURSAULTBOURGOGNE

Grape: 100% Chardonnay

Tasting note: first nose of honey, touch of halzenut & vanilla. Fresh aromas of lemon verberna, fresh coriander & fresh herbs. This is a rich & intense flavours with lively acidity. The finish features a delightful hint of citrus.

EDOUARD DELAUNAYSAVIGNY LÈS BEAUNEBOURGOGNE

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir

Tasting note: Intense aromas of red fruit, complemented by fresh scents with touch of spice, pepper & dark chocolate. Elegant on the palate with pleasing acidity that gives a sensation of purity.

epicure vietnam 115

TINTO FINO AND THE BLACK GRAPES OF RIBERA DEL DUERO

Spain produces some excellent wines, and those from the region of Ribera del Duero are among the finest. Thanks to the hard work and passion of Alejandro Fernández and Esperanza Rivera, the full-bodied vinos from their family winery have put the region firmly on the wine-making map.

Familia Fernandez Rivera was established in 1975 in a 16th-century stone winery in the Spanish community of Castilla y León. It began with the ingenuity of Alejandro Fernández and Esperanza Rivera, as well as the hard work and unity of a family, and started to produce red wines that would put the region of Ribera del Duero on the world wine-making map. Together, the family have created one of the best wines in the world according to famous American wine journalist Robert Parker who compared their wine, Pesquera, to the iconic Petrus from Bordeaux after tasting the incredible 1982 vintage with Alejandro. The group now boasts four wineries, a luxury hotel and a team comprised of more than 120 people. Their wines are sold in over 70 countries worldwide.

116 epicure vietnam
WINE KNOWLEDGE

Tinto Pesquera is a pioneer in Tempranillo winemaking methods. The wine was given this name in honour of Pesquera de Duero, the town where the winery is located and where Alejandro and Esperaza were born. The vineyards of Ribera del Duero stretch intermittently for over 70 miles along the River Duero - sprawling lands consisting of a mix of different soils, exposures and elevations, with some slopes as high as a half-mile above sea level. The dry terrain, ample amounts of sunlight and extreme temperature swings from day to night, sometimes with a 50-plus degree difference, create optimal ripening conditions for the Tempranillo grapes that define Ribera del Duero wines distinctive character.

The Tempranillo grape is a source of great pride for the region. Known locally as ‘Tinto Fino,’ to distinguish it from other nearby Tempranillo producing areas, it represents 95 percent of all the grapes grown in this special denomination. The Old Tempranillo vines produce the signature wines of Ribera. These vines are at least 25 years old and represent about 35 percent of all vines planted — meaning a significant

percentage of these vines have roots deep and nourished enough to survive the harsh climate. With fruit that tends to be smaller in size and more intense flavour, old vines have a reputation for producing wonderfully structured and balanced wines.

Ribera del Duero wines underscore the purest expression of Tempranillo, Spain’s most well-known grape; big, bold and textured, but with plenty of rich, old-world sensibility and notes of red berries, warm spices, leather and tobacco leaves. The region is home to some of Spain’s most sought after and celebrated wines. Ribera’s are crafted to age, developing complexity over time, yet balancing acidity with generous fruit and exceptional when paired with food. The spices, dark fruit and smoky flavours of Ribera enhance anything off the grill, especially roasted meats and rich pasta. Ribera del Duero wines can best be compared to Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley thanks to those rich and bold flavours, but tend to be more refined and Old World in style offering more balance and less overpowering oak. Spain produces some excellent wines, and those from Ribera del Duero are among the country’s finest.

Available form:

Thien Linh Wine Store

94 Ngoc Ha Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi

Hedonism Wine Hub

35 Xuan Thuy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC

epicure vietnam 117

THE ART OF APPRECIATING WINE

For many, the world of wine holds a certain mystique - a cheap bottle of plonk can taste just as good as a rare and prized vintage that can set you back thousands of dollars for a single bottle. Understanding the art of wine opens the door to new appreciation.

Wine tasting is considered an art and the taster, of course, is an artist. Beyond understanding the technical information of grape varieties, winemaking, and regions on every bottle of wine, it’s the process of contemplating, evaluating the aroma, taste as well as appreciating the winemaker’s dedication to the profession. Thus, to become a real artist and to dive into its magic world would take more than just some sips. It requires enthusiasm, commitment and plenty of practice.

BECOME A REAL ARTIST, WHY NOT?

Despite being a new concept in Vietnam, courses to master the art of wine have long been sought after in various countries. And among prestigious wine education programmes, it is impossible not to mention the WSET certificate (Wine and Spirit Education Trust). WSET

118 epicure vietnam
WINE KNOWLEDGE

is the sole wine and spirit organization that is recognized in the UK as a national awarding body of vocational qualifications. Since its foundation in 1969, WSET has gained the reputation of the world’s best international wine education & qualification provider with a selection of globally well-received wine and spirits education programmes.

Working with a network of 650+ course providers known as APPs (Approved Programme Providers) in 72 countries, WSET set foot in Vietnam in 2017 and since then has become the perfect programme for those who wish to have a strong first start in the journey of wine exploration. A Quality Management system has been put in place to guarantee that service providers across the globe meet the high quality and standard set out by the WSET organization in the UK.

EXPLORE THE WINE WORLD WITH PROFESSIONALS IN VIETNAM

Red Apron & Celliers d’Asie Wine School is one of the official WSET Program Providers in Vietnam. At Red Apron Wine School, all wine educators have a strong passion for wines and spirits and many years of experience in the industry. They include certified Sommeliers and those who have completed WSET’s programmes with distinction. The class is facilitated and arranged according to the standards of London, England with white walls, tables, chairs, and the appropriate lighting and temperature. This is necessary for students to observe the true colors of the wines and to feel their accurate flavors and smells.

With 3 different levels for students to register, ranging from easy to difficult levels to meet particular needs, wine tasting classes at Red Apron are not merely about theory. Indeed, the number of wines used for practice in the courses ranges from 10 (for the basic class) to over 70 (for the advanced class), from globally renowned brands to family estates and old castles. Students can experience both New World and Old World wines and are able to find out how grape variety, climate, and soil affect the style of wine from each winery.

Achieving WSET certifications is considered a great segue into understanding and mastering the art of wine. There is no doubt that the WSET training is the perfect programme for those who wish to have a strong first start in the journey of wine exploration.

“Vietnam is now witnessing a rapid growth of the wine market. No longer limited to the world of high-class cuisine, wine has become a popular choice for different classes thus the need to learn about wine has also increased significantly. It’s my pleasure to spread profound wine knowledge and share the passion for taste with Vietnamese wine lovers.” - Mr Daniel Henderson - a global WSET wine educator.

epicure vietnam 119

WHEN WINE BECOMES A FAMILY AFFAIR

Zenato wines are born from a vision, and a family united by a shared dream. Produced in a country where wine is a passion, their tastes and aromas are said to inspire emotion and create unique memories. Try them and discover for yourself.

The tale of Zenato is the story of a family with roots firmly planted in the land that surrounds them and made possible thanks to the passion and entrepreneurial vision of the estate’s founder, Sergio Zenato.

With hard work and perseverance, he has managed to fulfil his greatest dream: to create a winery capable of harvesting the fruits of the earth and transforming them into wines filled with emotions and matchless flavour. Today, more than 60 years after Zenato was founded, the wines they produce are a testament to Sergio’s extraordinary vision and the support of his wife Carla and their two children Alberto and Nadia.

This prestigious wine producer is located in the Veneto region of northeast Italy, surrounded by rolling hills covered in the straight lines of row upon row of verdant grapevines. Described as the soul of Lugana and the Heart of Valpolicella, the Zenato estate occupies 95 hectares of the best vineyards to be found in the “classic zones” of the Lugana and Valpolicella regions, famed for their Amarone della Valpolicella style of wines.

With two faces, one white, the other red, Zenato produces premium-quality wines that are born through a visceral passion for the land, through respect for time, and through a family tradition that has championed local grape varieties for 60 years. Their story stretches from the banks of Lake Garda to the hills of nearby Valpolicella where the estate’s reds are born from the sunfilled vineyards of Corvina and Rondinella in Costalunga in the Sant’ Ambrogio commune.

Corvina and Rondinella grape varietals are the two signature grapes used in the production of the Amarone della Valpolicella style of wines. The Amarone Classico wines are made at the Costalunga estate at Sant' Ambrogio di Valpolicella using grapes that are dried for up to four months before fermentation and 36 months ageing in oak barrels. The estate’s flagship Riserva Sergio Zenato is made

VINE EXPECTATIONS

from grapes that are dried in a single layer on trays, then aged in 7,500-litre Slavonian casks for 48 months. Both wines are blends with predominantly Corvina grapes, with smaller portions of Rondinella and Oseleta, a very rare and sought-after grape style only found in this Venato region of Italy.

The Cresasso, also made at the Costalunga estate, is a singlevineyard varietal Corvina that comes under the Veronese IGT designation. The grapes from this wine are picked in two phases -the first is dried for two months, and the second is over-ripened on the vine then fermented in stainless steel. The two parts are then blended and aged in French oak casks for 24 months. As well as the Cresasso, the Costalunga estate makes other styles of wine including a Recioto, a Ripasso, a Valpolicella Classico Superiore and the Cormì Veneto IGT, made from Corvina and Merlot.

Saddled between Lombardy and Veneto, one of the most original viticultural areas in all of Europe, Zenato's other estate, Santa Cristina in San Benedetto di Lugana, has 75 hectares (185 acres) of vineyards. With a unique climate, tempered by the body of water known in antiquity as Lake Benacus, the estate produces Pas Dosé and a Brut Metodo Classico sparkling wine, as well as the Lugano San Benedetto from Trebbiano di Lugana (or Verdicchio), both under the Zenato banner.

The Santa Cristina range also includes Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, a passito, a grappa and olive oil. The Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato, also made from Trebbiano di Lugana, tops the Lugana range. To complete their spectacular portfolio of wines, the Zenato family also produce a Bardolino red and Bardolino Chiaretto (rosé).

Thanks to one man’s vision, the Zenato portfolio are wines of character and an authentic expression of the region's distinctive terroir; from a magical place, a world unto itself, capable of inspiring emotion and creating unique memories. As an expression of the soul, in a dimension suspended between sound, aroma, texture, and colours, these are undoubtedly some of the finest wines produced in all of Italy.

Available form:

Thien Linh Wine Store

94 Ngoc Ha Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi

Hedonism Wine Hub

35 Xuan Thuy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC

epicure vietnam 121
122 epicure vietnam VINE EXPECTATIONS

Winemaker Leo Erazo is helping to define more than just Malbec at Altos Las Hormigas in Mendoza.

Emblems of wineries often include majestic animals such as eagles, lions, horses and dragons. But Altos Las Hormigas will make you look twice, for its label and name celebrates the humble, tiny ant. A saying in Argentina, “un trabajo de hormigas” or a job for ants, describes the work ethic and team-player dedication needed to achieve great tasks.

When Italians Alberto Antonini and Antonio Morescalchi first purchased 206 hectares of land in Lujan de Cuyo for the wine estate they were planning in 1995, their workers discovered a problem while planting the vineyards. Large colonies of local ants would feed on the tender sprouts of the newly planted vines, demolishing months of labour in as little as a single night. The ants seemed to cover enormous ground despite their size, and were deemed the ‘original’ owners of the land by the staff who refused to employ poison to remove them. Natural ways were used to deflect the ants, and the estate earned its name after the hormiga, now a symbol of good luck.

epicure vietnam 123

TRIAL BY SOIL

I meet the indefatigable hormiga, Leonardo (Leo) Erazo in Singapore, where he’s presenting his wines at a dinner at the Argentinian ambassador’s residence. Erazo was born in Santiago, Chile, in a family that had no ties to wine. His grandfather had a vineyard in Curico who sold grapes and didn’t produce wine, and it took Erazo a trip to Mexico where he first tasted a St. Emilion bottle before falling in love with the drink. Erazo spent the next decade shoring up his education and experience all over the world, receiving his diploma in agrarian studies in 2003 in Chile, then working stints in Spain, Australia, New Zealand, California and South Africa, where he researched the influence of soil over wine while completing a Masters of Science and Viticulture at the University of Stellenbosch. In 2012, he returned to South America but on the other side of the Andes; Erazo joined Altos Las Hormigas as the winery was transitioning to a terroir-driven project. By this time, Altos Las Homigas was already firmly established as one of the earliest wineries to specialise in Malbec, a bold move in the 1990s when international grapes were more lucrative. In fact, winemaker Attilio Pagli was tasked to make an Italian-style Sangiovese when he first arrived in Mendoza, but quickly discovered that Mendoza had no intention of being Tuscany.

Finca Altos Las Hormihas is located 800m above sea level, with 40 hectares planted to Malbec and 5.6 hectares to Bonarda, the second most-planted red variety in Argentina. The terroir project, Jardin Altamira, is a new vineyard acquired in 2011 and planted in 2017, the result of their pursuit of “Mendoza gold” – limestone. Another ‘ant’ in the team, Pedro Parra, who holds a PhD in terroir from France, dug over 1,500 soil pits in the Uco Valley to uncover deep calcerous rock which imparts a graceful minerality and ageworthy quality to Malbec. The result is seen in the Appellation series from Gaultallary (1,300m above sea level) and Paraje Altamira (1,200m above sea level), both farmed organically and using only wild yeasts in the winery.

124 epicure vietnam

PROJECT BY PROJECT

Turning 43, Erazo muses that vineyards planted now will only see its peak in 20 years – but there are no shortcuts to make wine. For instance, the first year that Altos Las Hormigas worked with natural yeast, there was too much volatility resulting in a lot of vinegar, he chuckles ruefully. “When you go back to nature, using no synthetic products and doing ‘less’, you actually need to have more knowledge and patience,” he explains. Another decision was to drop new oak and small barriques and opt for used, large oak foudres that seemed to bring out more expressions from the Appellation wines. “Using the same barrels and same toast in a way homogenised the wine, getting the same taste of oak across many Malbecs,” Erazo points out. By avoiding over-ripened grapes and over-extraction in the winery, more of the terroir expressions are now clearer.

Aside from Malbec, Altos Las Hormigas makes a pioneering single varietal Bonarda under a sister label, Colonia Las Liebres (which means “colony of hares”). This Bonarda is a revelation –unoaked, juicy and full of expressive raspberry. Says Erazo of both Malbec and Bonarda, “It used to be that the more oaky, the better.”

COLONIA LAS LIEBRES BONARDA CLÁSICA 2017

Grape: 100% Bonarda

Taste: Certified organic, this Bonarda is vinified in steel tanks and aged in concrete tanks for its crisp red fruit and white pepper character, marked by freshness. There’s deeper flavours and a vibrant mouthfeel that makes it equally at home with pasta or meat.

$32

In the past few years, Erazo has also been going back to the homeland of Malbec – to Cahors, where it is known as Cot. The project there is known as Causse, with three partners namely Causse du Theron, Causse des Ons and Causse du Vidot, where they achieve limestone expressions with a particular style – hand harvesting, full destemming of grapes, and ageing in concrete tanks without oak. The wines have been a recalibration of what the French think about the deep, dark style of Cot/Cahors, and come across perhaps more Burgundy in style.

On top of this, Erazo established a partnership with expat Justin Decker to make Rogue Vine (Chile) since 2011, working with old vines and different varietals in Itata Valley such as Cinsault, Riesling, and Pais. He is also in charge of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production from Gualtallary, under his own Revolver brand, where he explores Burgundian grapes on the same limestone terroir that produces Altos Las Hormigas’ Malbec. If it sounds like a lot of work, yes it is, and it takes a lot of passionate hormigas like Erazo to bring a new generation of South American wines to the world.

MALBEC RESERVE 2017

Grape: 100% Malbec

Taste: Aged for 22 months in untoasted French oak and 12 months in bottle, this Reserve is vivid with wild berry and underbrush character. Limestone soils result in the fine-grained tannins, while delicate hand harvesting and fermentation avoid over-extraction.

$52

ALTOS LAS HORMIGA MALBEC APPELLATION GUALTALLARY 2014

Grape: 100% Malbec

Taste: Rated 97 points by Decanter, this particular vintage comes from a hot year and shows in its ripe, spicy and powerful palate. Yet it’s lifted by violet aromas, freshness and minerality along with fine-grained tannins, finishing with a lip-smacking intensity.

$70

Distributed by Ampelia Wines, ampelia.sg

epicure vietnam 125

ISLAND WINE TIME

Vineyards are returning to the pleasure island of Mallorca in a serious way, thanks to new players like Bodega Son Mayol where technical director Marie Barbé oversees a modern Bordeaux-styled estate.

126 epicure vietnam VINE EXPECTATIONS
Export director Etienne de Rességuier, technical director Marie Barbé and consultant Bertrand Léon

Bordeaux native Marie Barbé grew up surrounded by wines, so much so that she chose to immerse herself in oenology studies in Bordeaux, graduating in 2002. Yet her career path was never a mainstream one; her wine projects have led her to New World (Chile) and even New Latitude regions such as Russia and India. Since 2016, the self-described epicurean and dreamer has found her favourite city to live in (so far): Palma de Mallorca, the island capital where she is 15 minutes away from her current role as technical director of Bodega Son Mayol.

With just 70 producers on the island, it’s a rare thing to find Mallorca wine outside of Spain, so it is testimony to Bodega Son Mayol’s reputation and noexpense-spared start that it has already been picked up for distribution in Singapore by Bottles & Bottles. Barbé sheds more insights into how the estate has achieved so much since it started in 2008.

THE ROOTS OF THE STORY

With its enviable location in the Mediterranean trade route, Mallorca has thrived under centuries of rule by Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, and finally the Kingdom of Aragon, under which it became part of the Catalan empire. Wines flourished up till the 1890s, when the phylloxera louse killed off most of the 30,000 hectares of vines on the island. It was only as recent as the 1990s that a resurgent interest in quality winemaking started bringing up the number of vineyards again, to over 2,500 hectares. That still represents less than 1% of the farming land available, and a far cry from its boom over a 100 years ago.

Bodega Son Mayol was established in 2008 by a Swiss entrepreneur, who stays out of the limelight. The spacious estate is home to vineyards, olive trees and a herd of Aberdeen Black Angus cattle – somewhat rare on the island, which now has a waiting list for its meat. Its location in Establiments was formerly not known for wine, but legendary Bordelaise consultant Patrick Léon (who passed away in 2018) was on hand to oversee the grape planting and wine elaboration, identifying its initial 60 acres of vineyards across 35 microclimates.

Barbé first met Léon for the Lefkadia wine project in Russia, and counts him as a mentor and friend. “I think what worked well between us was the same vision of an organised and rigorous work and the same sense of tasting,” she recounts. “Winemaking is a process of creation but it requires a lot of organisation. This is because you must have an eye on the vineyard to get the perfect maturity of the grapes, an eye on the weather and an eye on the winemaking process. And a slightly maniacal attitude in terms of hygiene.” The working relationship continues with Patrick’s son Bertrand, who’s taken over as consultant while also continuing his other projects with Chateau d’Esclans and Chateau Les Troix Crois.

BODEGA SON MAYOL GRAND VIN 2017

Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot

Taste: Concentrated and closed at first impression, the highly structured palate opens up with decanting to reveal classic tobacco, clove and black fruit notes. Finely ground tannins, full-bodied richness and a long finish points to ageing potential of a decade or so.

$265

BODEGA SON MAYOL PREMIER VIN 2017

Grapes: 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon Taste: Made in a style for younger term drinking, this sunny vintage is still muscular and intense out of the bottle. Expect ripe, sweet cherries and blackberries and a sniff of tobacco with balanced extraction.

$145

BODEGA SON MAYOL PREMIER VIN 2016

Grapes: While showing its youthful vine age, the assemblage has benefitted from rigorous berry sorting and ageing in barrels (70%) and steel tanks (30%) for 12 months. Soft, ripe red and black fruit dominate; it’s a food wine that pairs well with beef bourguignon or lamb.

$145

Bodega Son Mayol is available from bottlesandbottles.com.sg

epicure vietnam 127
Cellar master Gerard Aviles Pons Merlot grapes at harvest

AN INTEGRATED APPROACH

“I’ve always been interested in new challenges, not in the preestablished things,” says Barbé. At Bodega Son Mayol, that meant not just a new terroir to establish but also a brand new winery and cellar with every up-to-date technical advancement. Taking pride of place is the gravity-led three-story contemporary waveform bodega, designed by Spanish architect Javier Campos with cuttingedge, eco-friendly technology.

Explains Barbé, “Gravity was important for the reception of the grapes. As a winemaker, I believe that gravity at this stage is crucial (and even if the pumps are nowadays efficient), it is always better to go down than up so as not to cause pressure on the grapes. It is a natural rhythm of work in adequacy with the precision required by the actions on the wine.” Grapes are handpicked and handsorted before further optical sorting. With two-thirds of the bodega built underground, they also take advantage of natural thermal insulation to save even more energy, together with solar panels on the roof that generate 100,000KWh of energy annually. That’s more than enough for their use, so excess energy is fed back into the power grid. Meanwhile, grey water output is cleaned and recycled for watering the gardens.

In the vineyards, they practice integrated viticulture. “This means that our viticulture adapts to our terroir and changes according to the plot to best suit the conditions. We leave grass in the winter to work it mechanically in springtime; this allows us to avoid the erosion of our soils but then to control diseases and

hydrous competition,” she elaborates. In very dry years, one of the challenges of viniculture on Mallorca, Barbé notes that they give a little water at the start of the season to avoid stress on key stages such as flowering or change of colour, but never for productivity gain. “We try to give water only to our young plants but, at the same time, cause a little stress so as not to make them dependent on water. We choose rootstocks that are resistant to drought.”

128 epicure vietnam
Technical Director Marie Barbé

BLENDING IT RIGHT

There is a change of mentality in the wine industry, confirms Barbé. “Mallorca wants to produce typical wines with a strong identification of the Islands and is opening up to wanting to produce quality wines.” While some of the wineries are working mainly with indigenous island varieties such as Prensal (white) and Manto Negro, Callet and Fogoneu (reds), international varieties have also been on the rise.

Bodega Son Mayol’s focus on Bordeaux varieties — mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot — are due to Patrick’s founding influence. “With him, I learnt how to make not only good wines but great wines to age. When a wine is well done, it’s good. But there is a different class for higher-tier wines. This difference, as Patrick has taught me, is the capacity for ageing. This leads to the philosophy of Son Mayol to not only to create good wines, but also excellent wines with potential for ageing in bottles,” says Barbé. Temperature-controlled fermentation is done in wooden tanks, and all wines are aged in 100% French oak barrels for 12 to 18 months.

“My main task is organising the work of my team of 9 people, between the vineyard and the cellar. And depending on the time of year, I will be preparing the next plots for future plantations. The rest of my days are spent tasting the wines, visiting the vineyard, as well as administrative and commercial tasks.”

PREPARING FOR THE FUTURE

By 2023, the estate will have 40 hectares planted, so a lot of effort is spent on soil testing and plot preparation. “In a particular terroir, we prepare the soil for about five years. Two years to remove all the stones or rocks that we find with a special stone-picking machine. Then, we give it three years of rest before planting,” Barbe describes. “We are used to making several pits in the same plot before planting to define the different types of soil that the plot can contain. Depending on the results, we decide on the variety but above all on the rootstock that we will use to best adapt to our soil. Then we repeat these analyses every 5 to 10 years to see the evolution of the soil.”

The estate is starting production of Cabernet Franc and Mourvedre, to see if the varieties will work with their style – the results are looking good so far. This year, the bodega is also launching its new Rosé, using Merlot grapes. “It was important to define the style first before creating the wine. While the creation starts in the vineyard, I don’t separate my roles of technical director or winemaker. I wear both hats in order to create the wines,” she enthuses.

With a property this young, the next five years will be crucial to bring the maturity necessary for the vineyard to produce even higher quality, especially with the ageing of their Grand Vins. In the meantime, Barbé has fully immersed herself in the culture of the island, whether hiking in the mountains or discovering small coves in the summer. A small epicurean tip? Her new favourite pairing involves the Grand Vin 2016 with a steak from Son Mayol’s Black Angus. Seems like it’s just a matter of time before the world savours Mallorca anew.

epicure vietnam 129
Grapes are manually harvested by hand View of the vineyards at the foot of the mountain

The Art on the Label does Justice to the Wine within

Aperture Oliver Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Winemaker Jesse Katz isn’t just one of the promising young winemakers coming out of California – his dad Andy is also a noted photographer, making for their label Aperture’s distinctive wine labels. This tree-lined path image was chosen for its brooding quality, highlighting Oliver Ranch’s single vineyard character. The Alexander Valley 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot blend is aged 22 months in 50% new oak, and is unfined, unfiltered and unacidifed. The flavours are pure and unforgettable, featuring rich black cherry laced with crunchy tannins, leading to a generous finish. Price on enquiry from KAL Wine Source Asia

• Fourth consecutive years of drought in Sonoma County saw a smaller but high quality vintage.

• A warm summer accelerated maturity and picking, resulting in one of the earliest harvests on record.

• Like other grapes, there were smaller berries for Cabernet Sauvignon, which gave it greater concentration and ripeness in balance with tannins and colour.

WHAT A CONCEPT

HANDPICKED X ROMANCE WAS BORN ROSÉ 2018

The inaugural 2017 edition was sold out, and 2018 looks set to do so as well. This year’s collaboration between Handpicked Wines and cult clothing brand Romance Was Born sees a ‘cosmic disco’ theme to the fashionable summer sip. The Rosé is more richly textured than expected, elaborated from 100% Yarra Valley Pinot Noir with fermentation on Viognier skins to give it added vibrant complexity. Try it with sushi or Vietnamese rice paper rolls. $42.80 from maltwineasia.com

MONTEVERTINE LE PERGOLE TORTE 2015

Le Pergole Torte is synonymous with the artistic labels of Alberto Manfredi. While both founding winemakers Sergio Manetti and Manfredi have passed on, the 100% Sangiovese continues to be highly revered, and is now in the hands of Manetti’s son, Martino. The lush and showy 2015 vintage is more textural and intense than the austere 2014 vintage, and is rich in red cherry notes finished with a touch of savoury herbs. Its winemaking, vinified in concrete and aged in almost no new oak, results in a long-aged style suitable for the cellar. $202 from itwineclub.com

Launched for travel retail, The Macallan Concept Number 1 takes its cue from surreal art, with a correspondingly beautiful packaging referencing the imagination. While the largely successful Edition series drew on bold collaborations with the likes of chefs and perfumers, the Concept series explores maturation. In the case of Number 1, the 40% ABV spirit sits first in sherry-seasoned oak then ex-bourbon casks, a twist on the usual order. It’s still recognisably The Macallan with nutty fruitcake nuances, but lighter in taste. $170 from DFS Changi Airport while stocks last

130 epicure vietnam CELLAR CHOICE
2015 VINTAGE

It’s a Fine Time to Pop the Cork on these 2010 Releases

Produced only in stellar years, the Cerequio Barolo comes from the oldest (1972) and smallest parcel, and has yielded only three vintages so far – 2006, 2007 and 2010. It is carefully vinified with skins for 22 days, using a soft ‘shower’ system of wetting the cap before undergoing three years ageing in cask and three years in bottle. A complex, inviting nose of truffle and balsamic notes are coaxed out of the glass, followed by powerful black fruit and tobacco on the palate. Silky tannins and mineral depths round off the juicy core, for pairing with stews and mature cheese. $335 from monopole.com.sg

• This vintage is defined by its big character, complexity and exceptional potential for ageing.

• The month of September was very sunny and dry, allowing the Nebbiolo grapes to mature perfectly, giving whole berries with thick skins.

• Italian wine guru Ian D’agata says the cool growing season and late harvest reminded him of vintages from the 1970s and early 1980s.

PAZO SEÑORÁNS SELECCIÓN DE AÑADA 2010

More people are discovering the elegant, fresh Albariño from the Rias Baixas DO of Spain. This estate is run by husband and wife Soledad and Javier, who work plots separately in order to highlight quality such as this bottling – from vines over 45 years old grown on granitic soils. Albariño from the Salnés area is expressive with a crisp melony character, aided by ageing 30 months on its own lees and further aged in bottle for 12 months. It results in a fine depth of white peach and intense aromas, ideally paired with seafood dishes. $114 from ewineasia.com

WHEN IN NAPA

CLOS APALTA 2010

A catastrophic earthquake rocked Chile in 2010, recorded as the world’s fifth largest, but Clos Apalta took the delay in their stride. The estate is owned and run by the Marnier-Lapostolle family (of Grand Marnier fame), and champions the Carmenère grape in this blend. The 2010 comprises 71% Carmenère, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot, which achieves a polished palate of black fruit with spices of clove and pepper, finessed by velvety tannins. Native yeast, manual punchdowns and gravity racking contribute to the wine’s luscious power, which you can enjoy now with lamb or game.

$188 from 1855thebottleshop.com

Here’s even more reason to visit 1881 Napa Wine History Museum in California: the 150-year-old historic Victorian building is now also home to Oakville Wine Merchant, offering 50 wines by the glass. The wines are grouped by Napa Valley sub-appellations and dispensed through 12 Napa Tech machines, featuring labels like Shafer, Bond, Dominus and Dana. Vintner’s nights and tasting flights are in the works, making it easier to taste through Napa under one roof than ever. oakvillegrocery.com/oakville-wine-merchant

epicure vietnam 131
BAROLO 2010 VINTAGE REPORT

Sampan Rhum Vietnam - A True Taste of the Tropics

Distilled just metres from the beach and made from 100% pure sugar cane juice, Sampan rums combine years of passion, dedication and expertise to capture the sundappled essence and aromas of Vietnam’s tropics in a bottle.

There’s a heavenly place on a beach in Vietnam where a lover of artisan rums can find themselves a haven as the sun starts to set and the night draws in. It’s a place where a group of friends mixed their passion for rum with a love of Vietnam to create traditionally aged sugar-cane rums infused with the spirit of the tropics.

Located on the seafront, Distillerie d’Indochine combines 35 years of experience in the field of wines and spirits to produce their range of white and soon aged Rhum’s under the watchful guidance of Antoine Poircuitte, their Master Distiller. The sugar cane used to distill their rums is sourced from within a 40km radius of the

distillery and is delivered within 12 hours of harvest to ensure maximum freshness and the highest quality juice.

Sampan white rums are distilled using a traditional French column still, and their portfolio includes a double gold medalwinning 54% Overproof white rum with aromatic notes of white flowers and violets, like being immersed in a sugar cane plantation. Recently also awarded best Asian rum at the ISS in 2020, they are now distributed in over 15 countries. Sampan rums are the perfect choice for a sundowner cocktail and the tropical flavours of a rum-based drink. Have a tour of the distillery during your next trip in Hoi An!

132 epicure vietnam

Anna Princena and Kelly Wong from MO Bar are the Winners of the Remy Martin Barrel Aged Cocktail Competition 2020 with a Savvy

Salt-crusted Creation

A WINNING TOUCH

Bar supervisor Anna Princena and junior bartender Kelly Wong from MO Bar at Mandarin Oriental Singapore were not the most experienced contestants, but they had the most inspired collaboration. Using flavours that they liked from their childhood, they drew on Cognac’s history as a salt and wine trading region, as well as Wong’s background in Chinese cooking to come up with the idea of a salt-crusted barrel aged cocktail. The theme of this year’s competition was Team Up For Excellence, and they beat out 30 other contestants to win the top prize of a bartending international guest shift, which is currently on hold.

Disclaimer: epicure’s contributing wine editor, June Lee, served on the panel of judges for the contest.

NOSTALGIA

(This twist on the Sidecar cocktail originally involved a salt-crusted 5L barrel. The following recipe has been simplified for readers at home)

• 50ml banana-infused Remy Martin VSOP

• 20ml fresh lemon juice

• 20ml Cointreau

• 5ml banana liqueur

• 3 drops chocolate bitters

• 3 drops saline solution (salt dissolved in hot water)

• (optional) Garnish with salted caramel candy (store bought)

Combine all ingredients except garnish in a mixing glass filled with ice, and stir to your ideal dilution. Strain and serve in a stemmed glass over a large ice.

For banana-infused Remy Martin

• 1 bottle of Remy Martin VSOP

• 5 pieces of banana or a mix of bananas and banana chips

Sous vide for seven hours until desired level of flavour is achieved.

TIPPLE TIPS

Pushing boundaries

The F&B industry is alway evolving with ever changing dishes and innovative cuisines. Let these three chefs from 1-V:U, Preludio and Thevar show you what it means to be a creative chef of tomorrow.

SECRET RECIPES

Fernando Arévalo

“I do not want to conform to any particular cuisine, thus I chose Author's Cuisine. The term, which originated in Spain, may sound ambiguous but it is very popular among chefs who strive to express their creativity through food. There are no guidelines and boundaries when it comes to author’s cuisine–the rules are simple, just invent whatever pleases you.”

Concept Esther Faith Lew Art direction and styling Alicia Chow Kirwan Photos Edmond Ho Video Tu Jie Rui Text Victoria Lim Recipes Fernando Arévalo of Preludio, Mano Thevar of Thevar and Ace Tan of 1-V:U Shot at Jambu Studio This page Ocean Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Automatic 42mm 18K White Gold Timepiece on Alligator Strap, Harry Winston Opposite page Tree Branch, Jumbu Studio; Watch, stylist’s own; Carat Cutlery Set, Europ Felix; Plate, Preludio; Decorative Piece, Preludio; Lismore Diamond Brandy Set, Waterford

Named after the number of years it takes to age Acquerello rice - a unique product in itself as freshly harvested crop is first aged, then refined and slowly re-integrated with its own germ. The Acquarello rice is cooked with shallots and fennel, then vin jaune is added along with a combination of fish and chicken stock, served with shrimp foam and baked Kinmedai.The first stage involves ageing unhusked rice for 7 years in temperature-controlled silos. This long and natural procedure improves the consistency of the grains, resulting in cooked grains that are firmer and more separated than those of traditional rice, with no stickiness to their texture.

> Refer to page 137 for the recipe.

Decorative Piece, Preludio; Dance of Time by Salvador Dali, Daum; Plate; Preludio; Maxwell Decanter, Waterford

Burrata Parmigiana (Page 134)

The Burrata Parmigiana is Arévalo’s twist on an eggplant parmigiana, a classic Italian dish that is traditionally made with eggplant layered with cheese and tomato sauce. Preludio's version is a ball of stracciatella filled with white eggplant and parmesan on a bed of clarified tomato water, drizzled with the chef's favourite Arbequina Treurer Olive Oil It is served with a house-made fougasse bread roll brushed with the same olive oil.

Serves 5 burratas

Prep time 1 day

Cook time 20 minutes

Tomato water

• 2kg Datterini tomato

• 50g basil leaves

• salt

1. Blend the tomatoes on high speed for 2 minutes.

2. Add salt and basil, and strain through a fine cheesecloth inside a container overnight.

Eggplant filling

• 5 eggplants, medium sized

• salt, pepper, olive oil

• 3 shallots

• 1 leek

• butter, to sauté

• extra virgin olive oil, to sauté

• 100g basil leaves

• 4 cups tomato water

• 250g stracciatella cheese

• 150g Parmigiano-Reggiano

A 7 Year Story

Serves 5 portions

Prep time 1 hour

Cook time 20 minutes

Acquerello rice

• 1 fennel bulb, diced

• 2 yellow onions, diced

• 1 tsp butter

• 250g Acquerello rice (available from Classic Fine Foods)

• 250ml Vin Jaune wine

• 2 litres fish stock

• 200ml brown butter

• 1 crosne, chopped

• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar

• ½ tsp yoghurt acid

1. In a saucepan, sauté diced fennel bulb and yellow onions in butter until translucent.

2. Add Acquerello rice and Vin Jaune wine. Reduce the wine to half and slowly add the fish stock to the mixture. Stir often.

1. Marinate the eggplant with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Leave it in the chiller overnight.

2. Sauté the shallots and leeks in butter and extra virgin olive oil in a pot until translucent.

3. Add the marinated eggplant and basil leaves, and fill the pot with warm tomato water.

4. Season and cover with a parchment lid. Simmer for 30 minutes or until soft but not overcooked.

5. Take the eggplant out of the cooking liquid and mix with stracciatella cheese and ParmigianoReggiano. Season to taste and put the mix in a piping bag.

6. Save the cooking liquid for some other dish.

Burrata

• 200g Fior di Latte cheese, chopped

• 3 tbsp tomato water

• eggplant filling

3. Once the rice is ready to be finished, add brown butter, chopped crosne and stir with a spatula to emulsify.

4. Before serving add the white wine vinegar and yoghurt acid. Do not return to heat after this step, serve immediately.

Shrimp foam

• 500ml thick shrimp stock

• 3 threads of fresh saffron

• 5g lecithin

(available from Classic Fine Foods)

1. In a pot, bring all the ingredients to a boil.

2. Remove from heat and use a hand blender to create a foam.

Fish

• 5 Patagonian Toothfish fillets (80g per portion, available from The French Grocer Singapore)

1. In a pot, heat water up and pour the heated water over the chopped Fior di Latte cheese to soften it up – constantly stir it until the cheese becomes stretchy.

2. When slightly melted and smooth, begin to stretch the Fior di Latte cheese and make a small dent in the softened cheese and pip the eggplant filling into the cheese until the skin is thin. Use your fingers to close the burrata and press tightly to seal.

3. Keep the finished burrata submerged in room temperature water.

Assembly

• tomato water

• a dash of extra virgin olive oil

• salt, to season

• basil, to garnish

1. Serve warm with tomato water, extra virgin olive oil and finishing salt.

2. Then top it with basil.

• salt and pepper, to season

• fish stock

• a drizzle of olive oil

• 1 lemon

1. Preheat oven to 175°C.

2. Season Patagonian Toothfish fillets with salt and pepper. Place the fillets on a tray with fish stocl (to retain the moisture), then drizzle with olive oil.

3. Bake for three minutes.

4. As soon as it comes out of the oven, squeeze lemon on top of the fish fillets and finish with salt.

Assembly

• sweet fennel cress

1. On a plate, place the cooked Patagonian Toothfish fillet on top of the Acquerello rice and garnish with sweet fennel cress and shrimp foam.

epicure vietnam 137

Mano Thevar

“When you dine at Thevar you will find that many dishes taste familiar, as they are representative of Indian flavours from the Malay Peninsula. But I want to show the world that these comforting-uglydelicious flavours can also be done à la fine dining .”

This page Ocean Hours Minutes Retrograde 42mm automatic 18K Rose Gold Timepiece of Alligator Strap, Harry Winston Opposite page Bowl Borneo by Emilia Robba, Daum

Irish Oysters in Mango Chilli Lassi

These are two of Thevar’s favourite things: oysters and lassi. In this dish, the flavours of the briny yet sweet oyster complements the alphonso mango and the hit of Kashmiri chilli rounds it all up.

Serves 10

Prep time 20 minutes

Mango lassi mix

• 1kg Alphonso mango

• 20g Kashmiri chilli powder

• 300g yoghurt

• 50g fresh coriander

• 50ml apple cider vinegar

• 20g Himalayan salt

1. In a Thermomix, blend all ingredients together until smooth.

2. Fine strain the mango lassi mix and set it aside.

Coriander oil

• 1kg coriander leaves

• 300ml grapeseed oil

1. In a blender, blend all ingredients until it is well mixed.

2. In a pot, heat up coriander oil until it reaches 68°C.

3. Fine strain the coriander oil and set aside.

Assembly

• 10 Irish oysters

• 50g green chilli, diced

• Kashmirir chilli powder

1. Shuck the fresh Irish oysters.

2. Sprinkle diced green chilli (about 2g) and pour mango lassi mix on the freshly shucked Irish oysters.

3. Dust Kashmiri chilli on one end of the oyster and place a drop of coriander oil on the other end. Serve.

Pink Uqartz Tray, Bungalow 55; Mixology Neon Lime Green Tumbler Set, Waterford; Arum Dark Blue Bowl, Daum

Chettinad Mutton Pepper Fry served on Brioche Doughnut

Inspired by his forefathers from the south of India, Thevar has modernised Chettinad mutton with the addition of garlic aioli and pickled pepper, served on a slightly sweet brioche doughnut.

Serves 10

Prep time 1 hour + 3 days of marination and pickling Cook time 6 hours

Mutton shoulder

• 50g turmeric powder

• 60g chilli powder

• 70g cumin powder

• 100g ginger garlic paste

• 50g young papaya, grated

• 20g salt

• 10g black pepper

• a pinch of salt

• 1kg mutton shoulder

1. Mix everything together except the mutton shoulder.

2. Spread the marinade on the mutton shoulder evenly and leave it in the chiller for three days.

Turmeric cucumber pickle

• 200ml apple cider vinegar

• 200g sugar

• 200ml water

• 50g fresh turmeric

• 10g coriander seeds

• 5g black peppercorn

• 47g salt

• 5 stalks of coriander roots

• 1kg Japanese cucumber, sliced

1. In a pot, bring all the ingredients except sliced Japanese cucumber to a boil.

2. Once the mixture reaches a boil, remove from heat and cool it down before adding the cucumber slices in.

3. Pickle the sliced Japanese cucumbers in a jar for 3 days.

Garlic aioli

• 100g garlic, peeled

• 700ml grapeseed oil

• 5 egg yolks

• 5g Dijon mustard

• 10g salt

• 50ml lemon juice

1. Preheat oven to 250°C. Place garlic and 200ml grapeseed oil in a small

sauce pan. Cover and bake until cloves are golden and tender for about 2 hours. Set aside to cool.

2. In a blender, blend egg yolks, garlic confit, Dijon mustard and salt.

3. Slowly trickle down the remaining grapeseed oil until a creamy texture is achieved.

4. Mix in lemon juice. Set aside.

Masala brioche doughnut

• 60g milk

• 300g bread flour

• 10g fresh yeast

• 15g sugar

• 6g salt

• 150g eggs

• 5g garam masala

• 50g diced shallots

• 20g ginger garlic paste

• 5g curry leaf powder

• 5g diced tomato

• 5g fresh coriander

• 200g unsalted butter, diced and chilled

1. In a pot, bring milk to a boil. Cool it down.

2. In a bowl, mix 60g bread flour and yeast.

3. In a stand mixer, with a dough hook attachment, add bread flour mixture, sugar, salt, eggs, garam masala and beat it on low speed until well-mixed. Then add the remaining ingredients (except unsalted butter) into the mixing bowl and mix it for 2 minutes.

4. Add chilled butter to the mixture and mix it on medium speed until dough is formed.

5. Allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes at room temperature.

6. Knead the dough and chill it for 24 hours.

7. Divide the dough into 50g of balls.

8. In a pot, heat ghee up until it reaches 160°C and fry doughnut balls until golden brown.

Chettinad mutton mixture

• 100ml grapesed oil

• a handful of dried chillies

• a handful of curry leaves

• 1 tbsp mustard seeds

• 1 tbsp coriander seeds

• 2kg Madras onions

• 100g ginger, diced

• 100g garlic, diced

• 300g tomato, diced

• marinated mutton shoulder (recipe above)

• 100g freshly grated coconut

• 100g Tellicherry black peppercorns

• 2 litres vegetable stock

• salt, to taste

1. In a wok, heat grapeseed oil and stir-fry the dried chillies, curry leaves, mustard seeds and coriander seeds until fragrant.

2. Add onions and fry until lightly soften. Then add garlic and ginger, stir-fry until fragrant. And add tomatoes and stir-fry for 1 minute.

3. Add marinated mutton shoulder, turmeric and grated coconut, stir-fry until fragrant.

4. Add Tellicherry black peppercorns. Cook the mixture until fragrant, and then add vegetable stock.

5. Leave the Chettinad mutton mixture to slow cook for 4 hours. Add salt if desire.

Assembly

• garlic aioli (recipe above)

• Chettinad mutton mixture (recipe above)

• turmeric cucumber pickle (recipe above)

• 20g green chillies

• 20 coriander leaves

• 20 mint leaves

1. Cut the top of the doughnut –leaving ¾ of the doughnut.

2. Add a small dollop of garlic aioli. Then top it with a spoonful of Chettinad mutton mixture.

3. Add two slices of pickled cucumber.

4. Then garnish with green chilli, coriander leaves and mint leaves. Serve.

epicure vietnam 141

Serves 5

Prep time Overnight + 40 minutes

Cook time 1 hour

Dumplings

• 300g scallops

• 300g raw king crab meat

• 50g water chestnut

• 50g myoga (available from Meidi-Ya)

• 10g Chinese wine

• 10g light soy sauce

• 5g sugar

• 3g white pepper

• 2g salt

• 100g Thai asparagus

1. Blend scallops into smooth paste with mixer.

2. Remove shell and soft bones of king crab meat and cut into 0.5cm size.

3. Dice water chestnut and myoga into small cubes.

4. Mix all ingredients (expect for asparagus).

5. Blanch asparagus for 30 sec and ice bath.

6. Slice asparagus length wise into strips.

7. Roll the dumpling mix into 80g balls and layer asparagus strips on top.

8. Steam for 5-6min, check by inserting thermometer (minimum 65C) or baking needle to center of dumpling.

“I have always envisioned a future where Asian cuisine has its rightful place in the world of high gastronomy. This drives me to develop my own style of progressive Asian cuisine that combines native flavours and ingredients with a new perspective, while bridging tradition with modernity.”

Myoga broth

• 10g kombu

• 800g water

• 20g dried scallops

• 10g white soy sauce

• 10g bonito flakes

• 10g red beet juice

• 30g rice vinegar

• 60g myoga

• 20g honey

• 5g corn starch

1. Soak kombu in 700g of water overnight.

2. Bring kombu base to small simmer and remove the kombu from water.

3. Make into scallop dashi by adding dried scallops and simmer for 45 minutes.

4. Remove from heat and add white soy sauce and bonito flakes to infuse for 15 minutes.

5. Strain scallop dashi and keep aside.

6. Prepare pickling liquid by mixing red beet juice, rice vinegar and 100g water.

7. Cut myoga into quarters and leave in pickling liquid overnight.

8. Strain pickling liquid and remove myoga quarters.

9. Mix pickling liquid with scallop dashi and adjust the texture accordingly - with heated corn starch solution.

Assembly

• 8 Hanaho flowers/Shiso flowers (available at Zairyo)

1. Pour myoga broth in bowl.

2. Place dumpling in center and garnish with Hanaho flowers. Ace Tan

Pearl

The Pearl showcases natural flavours with a delicate assembly of key ingredients (scallop, jicama and flower crab) in the dumpling and sauce which has been simmered for two hours.

This page Night Blue Cosmos Tumbler, Cristallerie Royale de Champagne; Ocean Bleu Large Dinner Plate, Haviland; Bread & Butter Jellyfish Plate, Haviland; Reef Decorative White, Bungalow 55 Opposite page Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Complet, Blancpain Marble Plate, Jambu Studio

Seafarers’ Tribute

This dish pays homage to the many Asian cities that have lived off the oceans’ bounty. It showcases seven techniques for cooking seven different seafoods.

Serves 2

Prep time 2 hour 30 minutes

Cook time 1 hour

Fried kinmedai

• 80g kinmedai/red snapper

• 20g sugar

• 30g salt

• 500ml water

• 1 litre vegetable oil

1. Fillet fish into 40g portions.

2. Set the bones aside.

3. Make brining liquid by dissolving sugar and salt in water.

4. Submerge fish fillet into brine for 2 hours.

5. Strain and pat dry fish fillets.

6. In a pot, heat vegetable oil to 180°C and fry fish skin side first without submerging the main part of the protein for 30 seconds.

7. Drop the fish into vegetable oil for 1 minute, remove and put on resting stack.

Grilled squid

• 80g squid

• 100g koji

• 1 tangerine (can be replaced with any citrus fruit), juiced and zested

• 10g salt

• 10g sugar

1. Clean squid, cut open body side, score criss-cross on body and cut into 5cm squares.

2. Mix ingredients into a paste.

3. Marinate squid with paste for 1 hour.

4. Wash off the paste and pat dry.

5. Drizzle a little oil on squid and grill 30 seconds on each side.

Steamed king crab

• 50g dried Osmanthus flowers

• 1 litre water

• 80g king crab leg

• a pinch of salt

1. In a pot, bring dried Osmanthus flowers and water to a boil.

2. Steam the king crab leg in Osmanthus water for three minutes.

3. Remove the king crab leg from its shell and soft bone (without breaking the shape of the meat).

4. Trim the king crab leg to desired size.

Poached lobster

• 10g kombu

• 1 lire water

• 10g bonito flakes

• 30g jasmine leaves

• 5g salt

1. Soak kombu overnight in water. Bring to simmer, remove the kombu from heat.

2. Prepare Jasmine dashi by infusing with bonito flakes and Jasmine leaves for 30 minutes and strain.

3. Bring Jasmine dashi to boil and poach the lobster for 5 minutes.

4. Remove the lobster (set Jasmine dashi aside), cool it down and remove the meat from shell.

5. Keep the head and shells for later.

Braised abalone

• 1 Korean abalone

• 500ml water

• 5g shio kombu

• 10g light soy sayce

• 50g shallots

• 10g Oolong tea leaves

• 5g corn starch

1. Shuck abalone from shell and scrub the abalone clean.

2. Bring water to boil, add shio kombu, soy sauce and shallots and simmer for 45min.

3. Remove from heat and infuse with Oolong leaves for 10min before straining.

4. Braise abalone in liquid for 2 hours and leave to infuse overnight.

5. Remove abalone from liquid.

6. Thicken liquid with corn starch solution.

Jasmine dashi jelly

• 500g jasmine dashi liquid from poaching lobster

• 3 gelatine sheets

Soak gelatine sheets

1. Bring jasmine dashi to boil and stir to dissolve gelatine sheets.

2. Chill to set and break jelly

Seafood coconut sauce

• fish bone (from Kinmedai)

• lobster shell (from Poached Lobster)

• 200g leeks

• 1 lime

• 1 kaffir lime

• 200g coconut milk

• 1 stalk lemongrass

• 1L water

• 10g shiro soy sauce

• 5g corn starch

1. Roast fish bones and lobster shells in oven 1800C for 30min.

2. Prepare seafood reduction by boiling leeks and roasted bones.

3. Strain and reduce seafood reduction to 100ml.

4. Mix coconut milk, shiro soy sauce and seafood reduction and thicken with corn starch solution.

5. Finish with freshly squeezed lime juice, lime zest and kaffir lime zest.

Assembly

• 2 pc Botan Ebi

• 10g Uni

• 3 sea fennels

• 3 samphire

• 3 salty fingers

• 3 sea grapes

(sea herbs can be replaced with seaweed found in Japanese supermarkets).

• 1g chilli oil

1. Plate the five seafood, Botan Ebi and uni onto a flat round plate.

2. Garnish with the sea herbs

3. Garnish with 1 teaspoon of Jasmine dashi jelly.

4. Drizzle coconut seafood sauce and drops of chilli oil.

epicure vietnam 145

Perfecting the Art of Mixology at 2 Lam Son Bar

Saigon’s premier cocktail lounge, 2 Lam Son Bar, is taking the art of mixology to fresh heights with new bar manager, Simon Brandmayer who brings world-class cocktail artistry to the chic and stylish centrepiece of the city’s upmarket bar scene.

Elegant and sophisticated, 2 Lam Son Bar has been a mainstay of Saigon’s entertainment league for over a decade, drawing a mix of international jet-setters and high-toned locals wanting to see and be seen whilst enjoying some of the best-mixed drinks in the city. The stylishly designed bar, located on the Hai Ba Trung side of Park Hyatt Saigon, serves a dazzling selection of international wines, premium spirits and local and imported beers. However, the bar’s avant-garde assortment of signature cocktails has just been elevated to the next level.

As an authentic Saigon institution, 2 Lam Son is affectionately known as the Martini Bar by many of its regular guests, and over the years has earned a well-deserved reputation for impeccable service and cocktails that are poured to impress. Open from 5 PM until late, the bar quickly fills with guests who come to relax and socialise in a smokefree environment with an urban selection of designer music and live DJ performances customised to enhance the vibrant setting of the bar.

Stepping into the role of Manager at 2 Lam Son, Simon Brandmayer has big boots to fill but comes equipped with a bag full of flair, creativity and a passion for mixology. Originally from Bavaria, Germany, Simon cut his mixology teeth while working in the city’s best bars. Fourteen years later, having worked at top bars in Munich,

Paris, Athens, Berlin, Southeast Asia, Japan and the mixology capital of the world - London, Simon now adds Saigon to the list of cities to which he’s brought his world-class cocktail artistry.

Simon is a ‘Hyatt Grown’ talent with more than eight-years’ experience working for Hyatt Hotels in Switzerland and Asia, as well as playing an important role in flagship Hyatt hotel openings and training around South East Asia and Japan. Over the years, his mixology skills have earned him numerous accolades in cocktail competitions, including first places in the Bacardi Legacy competition 2015 and the international Cointreau Championship 2014, and he was a finalist of the Havana Club cocktail competition in 2014.

Now settled into the debonair 2 Lam Son Bar, Simon brings with him a rich portfolio of experience that is inflating the popular bar’s reputation in Saigon’s energetic nightlife scene. Excited to be experimenting with new ingredients and inspired by Vietnamese flowers, herbs and spices, Simon’s new floral themed cocktail creations are undoubtedly a must-try for those looking for a drink that stands out among the city’s many bars.

2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam Tel: +84 28 3824 1234. Email: saigon.park@hyatt.com

146 epicure vietnam RAISING THE BAR

DRINKING & HEALING CURES ALL

Located in a historic French colonial house in Ho Chi Minh City, Drinking & Healing provides patrons a reprieve from the busy city behind their exposed brick walls. Dim lighting, as well as glass and metal accents, create a relaxing ambience of luxury. Whether you’ve had a rough day at work or are just in need of a little fun, the bar’s “healers” are experts at mixing crowdpleasing craft cocktails and lifting your mood.

With an unlimited supply of quality spirits, you can ask for any classic cocktail from their carefully curated menu or let the mixologists behind the bar get creative and mix a unique beverage that’s perfectly suited to your tastes. For those in need of something more substantial, the burger at Drinking & Healing is often raved about and pairs nicely with their quality drink menu. L2, 25 Ho Tung Mau Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 934 110 110

WHERE ELEGANCE AND SOPHISTICATION CONVERGE

An award-winning master of culinary arts, Qui Lounge provides guests with an elegant and contemporary dining experience. Bask in the warm tones of their modern wood furnishings and soak in the charm of the lounge. Treat yourself to their Asian-inspired small dishes that are meant to be shared. They are perfect for an intimate night with friends and loved ones or even as a pre-night out snack. Quench your thirst with any one of their premium classic cocktails, world-class wines, upscale sakes or Japanese whiskies. As you sip and nibble on your trendy and gourmet libations, DJs perform every night to create a dynamic experience that impresses and delights everyone inside. 22 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3828 8828

JAPANESE FLAVOUR MEETS VIETNAMESE ASTHETIC

Sake Central Saigon is one of the greatest celebrations of Japanese culture in Ho Chi Minh City. Not only do they share with their patrons a fine selection of some of the world’s best sakes from both large and small breweries in Japan, but they serve them with grace and elegance. Take part in their intimate tastings or admire the stunning Japanese ceramics, sakes and other goods for sale. Not only is Sake Central Saigon a great place for date nights, but also private events. If desired, the entire bar can be booked out for parties and transformed into an intimate izakaya experience where they serve upscale Japanese dishes and spirits. Inside, their bright and beautiful long seating is perfect for an elegant gathering to appreciate the beauty of Japanese culture through food and beverages. 59 Dong Du Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3939 0022

epicure vietnam 147

COMFORT AND COCKTAILS

Newly renovated into the stylish space that it is today, Angelina in the Metropole Hotel of Hanoi serves not only a fabulous set of cocktails and whisky but also a modern menu of international recipes. Great care goes into the creation of their gourmet comfort dishes, and only the freshest seasonal fruits and vegetables are used. One of their most famous menu items is their 12-hour Wagyu beef short ribs served with truffle mash and a red wine reduction.

Angelina also specialises in rare and vintage whiskies and skillfully prepares delicious cocktails every evening. Enjoy their popular angel-in-a-box cocktail that combines a ten-year whisky from Talisker with applewood smoke, Oloroso sherry and shiitake tincture. Take the night off with one of their whisky creations or classic cocktails in their beautiful modern and contemporary twolevel bar and restaurant. 15 Ngo Quyen Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 3826 6919

BACK TO THE ROARING ‘20S

Kumquat Tree is an authentic speakeasy bar located in the vibrant district of Hoan Kiem. To enter, you must have the special passcode to get through their eye-catching red wooden door. As you step into this aesthetically pleasing updated traditional shophouse, take in the east-meets-west influences that make Kumquat Tree distinctively unique. With exposed brick and beautiful hardwood flooring that covers both levels, groups enjoy great conversation while sipping expertly curated cocktails.

Local mixologists at Kumquat Tree have devised an exquisite list of ten signature cocktails using premium alcohol. They also offer choice wines and other spirits for guests. Take part in their nightly after work special when cocktails and drinks are mixed for only VND 95,000. Stop by on Fridays or Saturdays to enjoy a lively evening of dancing while guest DJs spin the best genres of music. 1 Nguyen Khac Can Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 98 268 53 35

A CULINARY RENDEZVOUS

Located in the Somerset Westpoint Tay Ho Luxury Apartments, MAD Society is an upscale modern Asian dining experience. Their vintageinspired decor is very pleasing on the eyes, while their culinary options are a delight to your taste buds. The cuisine is a fusion of Asian flavours and features international spices such as Vietnamese fermented fish sauce and Korean kimchi. They serve a delectable assortment of Asian style tapas that pair excellently with their wine selection.

Wet your whistle with any one of their heavenly cocktails mixed with only the finest spirits. Or indulge in their collection of vintage whiskies which is one of the largest in all of Hanoi, with over 200 varieties. Enjoy their happy hour offered daily and get 50% off glass drinks between 5 and 8 pm. Fridays come alive at MAD Society with live jazz performances and free cocktails for the ladies from 8-10pm. 4F Somerset West Point, No.2 Tay Ho, Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 7109 9298

148 epicure vietnam

A HAVEN FOR ALL GIN ENTHUSIASTS

Tucked away in Hanoi’s vibrant Old Quarter, is the art deco-inspired MAD Botanist Gin Bar. Inside, dark timber wall panels, polished wood floors and gleaming brass fixtures exude a luxe sophistication. The walls are lined with some of the finest gins from around the world as well as other spirits used in their creative cocktail offerings. Once inside, you immediately feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the speakeasy era. From the bar, enjoy stunning rooftop views of Hanoi’s famous old cathedral right across the street. Their gin tasting menu offers gin enthusiasts the opportunity to sample up to eight different types of gin that are paired with exquisite garnishes and Thomas Henry tonic. Their stylish menu provides guests with detailed information as to the origins and types of gin in a demonstration of their expertise. While gin is their speciality, their creative cocktail menu of other spirits, wine and beer is also something to marvel at. 45 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 2246 4123

WHERE YOUR PERFECT COCKTAIL AWAITS YOU

Gallery Bespoke Cocktail Bar is a classic and upscale purveyor of craft cocktails. Creativity is greatly valued in this industrial-style venue, and you feel it from the retro leather seating to the art gallery covering much of the exposed brick walls. The timber flooring and leather armchairs are the definition of sophistication as well as the expertly curated wall of spirits that are lit by beautiful light fixtures. Stop in to enjoy their comprehensive menu of aperitifs. They serve their own unique signature cocktails and categorize them by taste profile, making it easy to find the drink you crave. Enjoy creations that espouse flavours such as spice, herbal, floral, sour and sweet. They also serve modern classics and add a contemporary spin on beloved recipes. If you’re feeling more lively, enjoy one of their bespoke bottles of spirits like gin, rum, whiskey or vodka and the bartenders will happily whip up a delicious personalized cocktail for you. 95

Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 94 111 14 20

AN EVENING OF INTRIGUE AND MURDER

Jigger Cocktail & Wine Bar boasts high-quality cocktails that only use the best fresh and local ingredients. The mixologists at Jigger take great care to produce classics with a special twist that please the palettes of their guests. All of their cocktails follow a theme of “murder mystery” with 20 unique recipes named after various characters in their imaginative murder narrative. If that wasn’t enough creativity in a drink menu, their specials are served with an eye-catching delivery.

Guests enjoy their creative cocktails in a beautiful industrial space. The exposed brick, black and white wall hangings and eye-catching bottle display truly embody the era of speakeasies. Not only are they renowned for their intriguing cocktails, but they also host a vibrant music scene and where various live music and DJ perform an array of different genres. Enjoy hip-hop, r&b, house music and more. 59 Nam Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 94 888 84 20

epicure vietnam 149

NEW & REFRESHED

Lumo, named for and inspired by light, is the latest modern European restaurant-bar, helmed by head chef Martin Wong (ex-Tess Bar) and head bartender Josiah Chee (ex-Flagship). Able to accommodate up to 70 diners across its separate bar, dining and alfresco, a Scandinavian theme evokes a youthful social space where you can watch the bartender or chef at work. An experimental cocktail menu takes the concept of breakfast into seven ‘prisms’ or categories such as milk and toast. The spirit-forward Patty Royale (all cocktails $20) is an impressive distillation of an Impossible burger into liquid form, using Thermomix, centrifuge and fat-washing to achieve a savoury aftertaste. Ananas Arrack uses all parts of the pineapple to create a successful tropical rum old fashioned, which can be paired with aged chicken mid-wings aigre doux ($17), an intensely flavoured snack. Chef Wong makes the best use of his charcoal grill for items such as wood-fired burnt leek ($14) and Westholme Wagyu intercostal ($32) with pickled kohlrabi and veal jus. #01-00, 50 South Bridge Road. Tel: 8921 3818

The signature “Dangerous Drinking Water” menu at Operation Dagger continues to keep drinkers spellbound under new French head bartender Thomas Girard, formerly from Carbón in Paris. With just a few classics (eg Hot & Cold and Choc Pinot) retained on the menu, the new cocktails include E Kho Qua (lacto-fermented bitter melon, spinach and whey) and So It Wasn’t Coffee – a play on used coffee grounds and boiled lime husks continue the bar’s ethos of sustainability (all cocktails $25). #B1-01, 7 Ann Siang Hill. Tel: 6438 4057

150 epicure vietnam

In celebration of their 7th anniversary, Bitters and Love has returned to the roots of their name and of all cocktails – bitters. The team has created 10 homemade bitters that act as unique ‘seasonings’ for their drinks, including peanut, matcha tea, ginger flower and bak kut teh bitters. The Smoked Satay Solo ($24) with Irish whiskey, lime and skewered beef jerky, receives a nutty essence with peanut bitters, while spiced cranberry bitters bring lift to the stiff Last Train to Tokyo ($24). For fans, Kill Dill ($28), Guns & Nozes ($25) and a few other must-haves are retained on the permanent favourites list. The food remains as good as ever, with tuna tartare on nachos and bangers & masg joining the lineup of wagyu beef cuves and prawn pasta. 118 Telok Ayer Street. Tel: 6438 1836

Craft beer and cider specialist Hopstation is a homey CBD gathering spot for a large list of over 100 curated labels with 13 beers on tap. Aiming to please, there’s something for every enthusiast from lagers, pale ales and pilsners to stouts and IPAs ($10-17 for draft). For warm weather, a juicy pale Taiwanese Disco Macaw ($13) hits the spot, alongside a Hop Ham parma salad ($18), while the Punk IPA draft can stand up to a more robust Gochujang fried chicken ($12) or Hop Fish & Chip ($18) using snapper fillets. Singaporean brewers get a nod too, such as The 1925 Brewing Co’s Liang Teh Lager ($13).

#01-108/109 Cross Street Exchange, 18 Cross Street. Tel: 6574 9028

TONIC FOR OUR TIMES

From Australia, one of the fullest range of non-alcoholic ‘spirits’ have landed in Singapore. Lyre’s (named after the Oz lyrebird, a mimic) offers alternatives in the form of London Dry Spirit, White Cane Spirit, American Malt, Italian Orange, Aperitif Rosso, Coffee Originale, Spiced Cane Spirit, Orange Sec, Aperitif Dry and more, which makes it easy to swap ingredients when making the usual or low/no ABV cocktails and drinks. The company uses extracts and distillates derived from fruits, spices, nuts, seeds and botanicals, to achieve the elusive mouthfeel and warmth that alcohol imparts to cocktails. No-hangover coffee martinis, Aperol spritzes and Negronis are easier to enjoy at home with the range (RRP $59 each) expected to reach Market Place and select Cold Storage stores in early April.

epicure vietnam 151

THE COMMANDERIE DE BORDEAUX, A PERFECT GATHERING OF SAIGON’S WINE ENTHUSIASTS & CONNOISEURS

In April, a distinguished selection of Saigon’s wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs gathered at the Park Hyatt Saigon for the celebrated Grand Conseil de Vin de Bordeaux En Primeur wine tasting, the first time the prestigious event has been held outside French territory in over 60 years.

In April this year, a group of wine professionals, enthusiasts and connoisseurs gathered at The Park Hyatt Saigon. They met for an unusual and distinguished wine tasting, hosted by The Commanderie de Bordeaux Saigon Chapter of the Grand Conseil de Vin de Bordeaux, established by Henri Martin in 1952. Worldwide, there are 90 such commanderies of this prestigious Grand Conseil of oenophiles, with the Saigon Chapter established in 2015.

Bordeaux grapes are considered among the finest in the world, and the region is home to the world’s most skilful winemakers and vineyard managers. Each vintage produced is steeped in heritage and prestige, and wines from Bordeaux are undoubtedly among the most expensive and sought after.

To sell their wines, leading estates (Chateaux) from Bordeaux use an archaic yet unique and highly profitable system known as ‘en primeur’, or ‘wine futures,’ which enables collectors and consumers to buy a wine before it is released to wider consumers. Similar to purchasing an apartment off-plan, this allows for a discounted presecuring of the wine, as well as the potential for significant profits to be made once the wine is released. As an example, grapes picked in Bordeaux in September 2020 are aged until April 2021. They are then sampled to gauge initial impressions and quality of the vintage, but not shipped to customers until the summer of 2023.

By understanding this system of how Bordeaux wines are sold, we can recognise the exceptional nature of the Park Hyatt event. In normal years, wine journalists, connoisseurs and serious buyers would gather in Bordeaux in April for the initial tastings of wines from the current vintage. However, in a COVID world with significant travel restrictions, Bordeaux Chateaux have sent samples of the fresh 2020 vintage wines to key export markets for tasting. This is the first time in over 60 years the annual En Primeur tasting has been conducted outside of French territory.

Those fortunate enough to be invited to this distinguished event included representatives from some of Vietnam’s biggest wine importers, such as Warehouse, Celliers d’Asie and Viva House of Wine, alongside wine professionals like Catherine Guo and Jean-Bernard Baudron. Guests also included bon vivant Jonathan Dinh, Dutch entrepreneur Timen Swijtink, founder of Vietnamese coffee company Lacaph, and The Park Hyatt Saigon’s General Manager Frederic Boulin.

Mr. Maxime Dubois, a celebrated and certified sommelier from the Red Apron Wine & Spirit Company eloquently updated guests with an engaging presentation about the latest developments from Bordeaux and provided a unique perspective as to the quality of the 2020 vintage. In conjunction with Alain Cany, Maxime then led guests through a rigorous tasting of up to 30 different wines, supported by some of Vietnam’s most talented young sommeliers including Ms. Tran Thi Dung Tram.

Feedback from the event was unanimously positive with Alain Cany declaring Bordeaux 2020 to be a “fantastic and a very promising vintage”. Jean-Bernard Baudron talked about a “solar vintage, positively marked by the climate” showing impressive potential”. Jonathan Dinh commented on a “great-tasting and I’m so happy it happened in Vietnam” while Timen Swijtink shared how “the live tasting with Chateau Lascombes was fun; it felt a bit like I had a brief moment back, visiting Bordeaux again”

Guests were obviously spoilt for choice, and trying to pick out some favourite wines from such an esteemed lineup was always going to be challenging. Eva Gottesman from Viva House of Wines picked out a top three of Chateau Croix de Labrie, Chateau Beychevelle and the sweet Chateau Doisy Daene as her stars of the show. Overall, a magnificent vintage with plenty of wines to watch out for.

152 epicure vietnam
SEEN & SAVOURED
epicure vietnam 153

ONE DAY CAN CHANGE YOUR WHOLE LIFE

Despite facing many obstacles due to the Covid-19 pandemic, Global Wellness Day 2021 and its message of health go ahead and are enthusiastically supported on social networking platforms globally and throughout Vietnam.

Held annually on the second Saturday of June, Global Wellness Day (GWD) is all about adopting a healthy lifestyle, and realising that making small changes to our current routine today can have a greater impact over time. This simple message is embodied in GWD’s slogan, ‘One day can change your whole life.’

First launched in Turkey in 2012, the non-profit programme has spread to more than 150 countries and territories around the world, and has become one of the biggest wellness and wellliving movements internationally. In May 2021, as the pandemic swept the world, many of GWD’s activities moved online. Largescale physical training sessions, environment clean-ups, and other communal events could no longer be carried out as planned. But the organisation’s powerful and positive messages continue to be shared through social media networks.

As Vietnam’s GWD Ambassador, Henri Hubert has organised many health-related events, such as a Wellness Dinner to encourage healthy food choices, and the Wellness Workshop to inspire students in Ho Chi Minh City. Despite the challenges due to Covid-19, he’s continued to promote GWD’s initiative, the “21-day Wellness Challenge”, which encourages participants to follow simple and more complex habits to change their lifestyle.

The programme promotes adopting healthy routines, such as drinking 2 litres of water, going to bed before 10 PM, calling your parents, reading a book, and so on to encourage good habits. At the same time, Henri invites participants to share their own stories, creating inspiring and relatable experiences of healthy living.

Although the event officially takes place only annually, the spirit of GWD is still fully preserved in the remaining 364 days of the year. In Vietnam, GWD has many plans and is always ready to execute when the time comes. While waiting for the pandemic to die down, GWD will be using the collected stories that show the greatest changes people have made that promote the value of well-living.

GWD Vietnam typically partners with resorts and hotels across the country to organise small-scale wellness events. Previous venues have included Alba Wellness Valley Hue, part of the Fusion wellness group of resorts, as well as the Pullman and Premier Village in Phu Quoc, and Pandanus Mui Ne Phan Thiet. Other resorts from across

the country will hold activities to celebrate Global Wellness Day after quarantine, such as Sandy Beach Resorts Non Nuoc Da Nang, Oakwood Residence Ha Noi, Super Candle Ha Noi, Minera Hot Spring Binh Chau, Four Season Resorts The Nam Hai and Maia Quy Nhon. This year, GWD also had the opportunity to accompany VinaCapital Foundation to send gifts to children at shelters as well as inpatients and medical staff at some hospitals within Ho Chi Minh City.

The mini events attract the attention and support of celebrities from all over the country. MC Quynh Hoa and MC Phuong Hieu have encouraged everyone to clean their living spaces, exercise at home and follow a healthy diet to boost their immune system.

154 epicure vietnam SEEN & SAVOURED
Miss Earth Thai Hoa Premiere Village Phu Quoc

Models such as Thanh Khoa, Minh Uyen, Nhu Tran, Jade Nguyen, Phan Linh and Thu Dinh have also promoted messages of positive energy and optimism. Other supporters include Le Fruit, Hemilys Tea, Labotany and Star Kombucha, all of whom help spread the positive humanitarian messages.

Henri Hubert is the perfect ambassador for Global Wellness Day in Vietnam, having lived here for 15 years and with almost four decades of wellness experience under his belt. He embodies the spirit of GWD, living his life as an example to others and believing that ‘true beauty comes from the harmony between the body and the mind.’

So, while Global Wellness Day 2021 has had to take a step back from the previous years’ activities, its message remains as relevant as ever. Next time you’re feeling stressed at work or home, take a moment to reflect on your lifestyle, think about how you can rid yourself of those bad habits that are impacting your health negatively and that one day can change a lifetime. It’s always easier said than done, but what’s one day?

For more information about Global Wellness Day contact Henri at henri.hubert@globalwellnessday.org

epicure vietnam 155
Pullman Phu Quoc Padanus Mui Ne - Phan Thiet Model Phan Linh Henri Hubert MC Quynh Hoa MC Phuong Hieu Alba Wellness Valley by Fusion - Hue

HOTEL

Ho Chi Minh

• An Lam Saigon River

• Caravelle

• Chloe Gallery

• Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon

• Hotel Des Arts

• Hotel Nikko Saigon

• Intercontinental Asiana Saigon

• Lotte Legend

• Le Meridien Saigon

• Mai House Saigon

• Mia Saigon

• New World Hotel

• Norfolk Mansion

• Novotel Saigon Centre

• Oakwood Residence Saigon

• Park Hyatt Saigon

• Pullman Hotel

• Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon

• Rex Hotel

• Saigon Prince Hotel

• Sedona Suites

• Sofitel Saigon Plaza

• Sheraton Saigon Hotel

• Sherwood Residence

• Somerset Vista Hochiminh City

• The Reverie Saigon

• The Myst Dong Khoi

• Villa Song Saigon

• Windsor Plaza Hotel

Con Dao

• Poulo Condo

• Sixsense Con Dao

Nha Trang

• An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay

• Intercontinental Nha Trang

• Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa

• Sixsense Ninh Van Bay

• The Anam

Da Nang

• Fusion Maia Danang

• Furama Resort & Spa

• Hyatt Regency Danang Resort And Spa

• Intercontinental Da Nang

Hoi An

• Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai

Hue

• Alba Wellness Resort

• Banyan Tree Lang Co

Ha Noi

• Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake

• Intercontinental Hanoi Landmark72

• JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi

• Sheraton Hanoi Hotel

• Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

Phu Quoc

• Fusion Resort Phuquoc

• Hyatt Regency Nam Nghi Phu Quoc Island

• Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort

• JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa

RESTAURANT

Ho Chi Minh

• An Vien Restaurant

• Anh Tukk Modern Thai Cuisine

• Argentinian Steakhouse El Gaucho

• Au Lac Do Brazil Restaurant

• Boomarang Bistro Saigon

• L’usine Cafe & Restaurant

• La Villa French Restaurant

• Hoa Túc Restaurant

• Moo Beefsteak

• Opus Sai Gon

• Pendolasco Restaurant

• Uraetei Yakiniku Restaurant

• Refinery Bar & Restaurant

• San Fu Lou

• Tandoor Vietnam

• The Log Restaurant

• Thai Cong Restaurant

• Villa Royale Downtown Antiques & Tea Room

• 3G Trois Gourmands

Da Nang

• Bushido Restaurant

• Bistecca Restaurant Danang

• Don Cipriani’s

• El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse

• Hai Cang Da Nang Restaurant

• Mr. Anh Restaurant

• Nen Restaurant

• Olivia’s Prime Steakhouse

• Pizza 4p’s Hoang Van Thu

• Retro Kitchen and Bar

• The Rachel Restaurant

• The Temptation Restaurant

• Tra House & Bistro

Ha Noi

• Bow Thai

• Cloud Nine Restaurant

• EMM’s French Bistro

• Essence Restaurant

• French Grill

• Hanoi Garden Restaurant

• Hanoi Ocean House

• Hanoi Serene Cuisine Restaurant

• La Fiorentina - Italian Restaurant

• La Badiane

• La Verticale

• Madame Hien

• Maison Vie Restaurant - Fine French Cuisine

• Kimono Japanese Restaurant

• Opera Garden Restaurant

• T.U.N.G Dining

• Red Bean Restaurant

• Teddy’s American Grill House

• Tunglok Heen

AIRPORT

Ho Chi Minh

Tan Son Nhat International Airport

International Terminal

• Lotus Lounge

• Rose Lounge

• Lotus Lounge 2

• Orchid Lounge

• Le Saigonnais Lounge

Domestis Terminal

• Lotus Lounge

• Le Saigonnais Lounge

Da Lat

Lien Khuong International Airport

• Lien Khuong Airport

Nha Trang

Cam Ranh International Airport

International Terminal

• Lotus Lounge

• Sun Coast Lounge

Domestis Terminal

• The Champ Lounge

Ha Noi

Noi Bai International Airport

International Terminal

• Song Hong Business Lounge

Domestis Terminal

• Song Hong Premium Lounge

156 epicure vietnam
WHERE TO FIND
L’Azure Resort & Spa Phu Quoc

WHERE TO BUY

Ho Chi Minh

• Phuong Nam Vincom Dong Khoi

• Phuong Nam Saigon Centre

• Phuong Nam An Phu Supermarket

• Phuong Nam Estella Place

• Phuong Nam Parkson Hung Vuong

• Phuong Nam Vivo City

• Phuong Nam Crescent Mall

• Phuong Nam Vincom Le Van Viet

• Phuong Nam Book City Garden Mall

• Phuong Nam Book City Van Hanh Mall

• Ca Chep Bookstore 211-213 Vo Van Tan, District 3

Ha Noi

• Phuong Nam Garden Mall

• Phuong Nam Lotte Center

• Phuong Nam Mega Mall Royal City

• Phuong Nam Vincom Ba Trieu

• Phuong Nam Vincom Nguyen Chi Thanh

Binh Duong

• Phuong Nam Aeon Mall Binh Duong

Dong Nai

• Phuong Nam Vincom Bien Hoa

• Phuong Nam 113-115 Dong Khoi Street, Tam Hiep Ward

Da Lat

• Phuong Nam Vincom Bao Loc

• Phuong Nam Lien Khuong Airport

• Phuong Nam 279 Phan Dinh Phung Street

Nha Trang

• Phuong Nam 17 Thai Nguyen Street, Phuoc Tan Ward

Da Nang

• Phuong Nam 153 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Phuoc Ninh Ward, Hai Chau District

• Phuong Nam Vincom Da Nang

• Phuong Nam Danang Airport

Can Tho

• Phuong Nam 06 Hoa Binh Street, An Cu Ward, Ninh Kieu District

epicure vietnam 157
Square One
New Age of Design SOLITAIRE THE FINE ART OF JEWELLERY AND LIVING N°111 ASIA PACIFIC EDITION www.solitairemagazine.com SWITZERLAND TOURISM SPECIAL Let’s Talk About Love SOLITAIRE THE FINE ART OF JEWELLERY AND LIVING N°110 ASIA PACIFIC EDITION www.solitairemagazine.com IF LUXURY IS YOUR LIFE, WE SPEAK YOUR LANGUAGE
epicurevietnam.com epicurevietnam epicurevietnam @epicurevietnam

EPICURE LOVES

160 epicure vietnam
Eventail Capitol Piazza 15 Stamford Road #01-69/70/71 Singapore 178906 www.haviland.fr

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.